St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Dec'14/Jan'14 by Russia In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg December 2014 - January 2015

In search of lost time Glorious Pskov, ancient and modern More than 10 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com NÂ°98

Treasure Palace The State Hermitage turns 250

Contents Where to eat

Russian, Italian, Caucasian and more

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Nightlife

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10 Concerts and festivals 10 Exhibitions 14

Features

Bars and clubs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how to stay out till 6 a.m.

What to see The essentials Modern art centres Historical outskirts

44 44 45 47

Where to stay 54 Interview with concierge

Shopping

57 58

Russian winter souvenirs

Expat & Lifestyle 59

The expat experience St. Petersburg Theatre Life 17 Maps & Index Winter Holidays in St. Petersburg 20 Metro map Grand Hotel Europe 34 City map Hermitage 250 years 48 Street index Pskov 50

Moscow

60 61 62 64 65

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December 2014 - January 2015

Foreword

In the News

Time flies way too fast. I still remember how one year ago our team was preparing a big party dedicated to St. Petersburg In Your Pocket’s 10th anniversary. So many close friends came to celebrate this day with us and wish us their best! And now we are one year older again and as always have lots of new ideas and exciting projects. 2014 was a great year for all of us at In Your Pocket as well as for St. Petersburg itself. The city has been growing and changing in all the right ways, especially in both the hospitality and cultural sectors. A ton of new hotels and restaurants, art centres and museums have opened and St. Petersburg hosted more big international festivals and concerts than ever before. All of which once again confirms St. Petersburg’s status as the cultural capital of Russia. That’s all to say, you’ve made the right choice in coming to this incredible city and you can now enjoy the experience of a real Russian winter! Be ready, they say this winter will be one of the coldest in 20 years. Sounds exciting doesn’t it? Check out our special feature on pages 20-26, which is filled with things to do during the winter holidays as well as full details about New Year celebrations. Then wrap up warm and hit the town! You can also go to the theatre (as you probably know it’s an absolute must during your stay in St. Petersburg, check out pages 17-19 for details) and after that have a fabulous dinner in one of the best restaurants in town (see pages 27-38). Or if you’d like something really special and unforgettable, check pages 50-53 and plan your trip to the ancient town of Pskov. Not far from St. Petersburg and one of Russia’s oldest, yet least well known cities, Pskov has lots to offer the curious traveler. Whatever you decide to do, enjoy every moment of your stay in the city and have a lot of fun! Happy New Year, dear friends! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

Hermitage Celebrates 250th Anniversary St. Petersburg In Your E SPocket S E N TI A L founded and published C I by T YOOO G Krasnaya U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Contributors Olivia Capozzalo, Nils Roskamp Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 98, 01.12.2014, 90.000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 90 000 экз. No98. 01.12.2014

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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently preparing a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to.

While there are many worthy contenders for the title face of the city, if you ask someone to close their eyes and picture St. Petersburg, they will probably imagine the Hermitage. Founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great as a private collection (one of the Empress’s first job lots was purchased from Sir Robert Walpole, Great Britain’s first Prime Minister), the Hermitage only opened its doors to the public just under a centurey later, during the reign of Nicholas I. Today the collection has grown to over 3 million works, or one for every visitor who crosses its hallowed threshold each year. If you weren’t one of them in 2014, shame on you, but check out our special feature on pages 48-49 and we’ll overlook it just this once.

Arts’ Square Festival On December 14th and 15th the St. Petersburg Philharmonia will host the 15th “Arts’ Square” music festival. This year the event takes on a distinctly English flavour: the programme includes performances of works by Purcell, Britten, Elgar and Nyman among others, and renowned tenor Ian Bostridge and pianist Christian Blackshaw will also be flying in. To mark the 450th anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth, midwinter in St. Petersburg will witness a unique performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and cinema fans young and old will have the opportunity to watch The Snowman and 2001: A Space Odyssey screened to the live accompaniment of a full symphony orchestra. Another festival highlight will be the appearance of one of the most in-demand tenors of the moment, Jonas Kaufmann, performing pieces by Schumann, Wagner and Liszt. www. philharmonia.spb.ru

An ice bucket? You call that a challenge? Filming yourself as you tip a few litres of cold water over your head on a summer’s day is all very well, but you’ve got some way to go to match the brave souls who line up to take the plunge each year on January 19th, the date of the Epiphany (Kreshcheniye) in the Russian Orthodox calendar. Last year more than 30,000 people in St. Petersburg alone voluntarily immersed themselves three times in a blessed section of freezing water in honour of the baptism of Christ. If you want to watch, or even take part, there are 17 sites in and around St. Petersburg officially set up to help the faithful and/or foolhardy test their mettle, the most central being on the banks of the Neva just by the Peter and Paul Fortress.

The FORMA Biennale of Museum Design Organised by the State Hermitage and the PRO ARTE Foundation for Culture and the Arts, with the support of the Russian Ministry of Culture and the Mikhail Prokhorov Foundation, the FORMA Biennale is a new initiative setting out to examine how contemporary museums can optimise themselves both in terms of visitor attraction and functionality. Hosted by a range of venues across the city from November 14th to December 14th, the Biennale’s programme includes lectures by world-renowned architects, as well as a number of feature exhibitions created by both Russian and international designers. For further information, please visit www.spbmuseumdesign.ru

Long Winter Holidays The rest of the world may still decide to pop into work for a few days between Christmas and New Year, principally to detox from the former and prepare for the latter, but Russia once again cements its reputation as the land of plenty by generously bestowing a solid week and a half of rest and recuperation on its mildly hungover citizens. This year, the national holidays run from New Year’s Day to January 11th, while the particularly devout might also want to plan a half-day for the 13th to celebrate Old New Year in accordance with the Russian Orthodox Calendar. The 25th and 26th of December remain normal working days, inasmuch as this is ever practically possible. Read more on the celebration of Russian Christmas on page 22.

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Russian Epiphany

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December 2014 - January 2015

Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city. If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave. The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi. Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.

Arriving & Getting Around The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly. Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure! Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes). Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station. If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination. Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi.

Read more online: www.inyourpocket.com/ russia/st-petersburg/arriving 6

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Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need. Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver. St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting. Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. nyt.ru December 2014 - January 2015

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand Do you speak English? Help! I don't want

02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and (+7) 812 303 05 55. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between 22:00 and 11:00. 8

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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pocket dictionary: Vatrushka A vatrushka is a sweet doughnut shaped Russian pastry, which is typically filled with sweet cottage cheese (tvorog) or jam. Their western equivalent is often said to be the Danish pastry, although Russian vatrushki are made with a yeastier bread dough and can also be found with savoury fillings. In honour of their resemblance to the sweet treat, those giant inflatable rubber rings which kids and adults like to bound down snowy hillsides on are also called vatrushka.

numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

adinatsat dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat

30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000

tritsat sorok pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? Good Khorosho Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? Kogda? What time is it? Katory chas? Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Хорошо Сегодня Завтра Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Который час? Конечно С праздником! Пароль

The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sports, entertainment and much else that is of interest to both residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital. Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert commentary on the country’s changing political and economic landscape and provides valuable insight into the issues that frequently grab the world’s attention. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants and business centers citywide, as well as at important international events. December 2014 - January 2015

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a day hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night you choose.

theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.

DEcember events 04.12 Thursday 19:00 Aquarium Boris Grebenshchikov, the “Father of Russian Rock”, and his celebrated group Aquarium kick off their most recent tour of Russia with a concert in their home city. Grebenshchikov’s over 40-year career has taken him from underground concerts in Leningrad apartments all the way to worldwide fame. Grebenshchikov’s current sound deftly pulls from a wide variety of genres - from reggae to American folk. Performing with the rock legend are longtime Aquarium members and collaborators Alexander Titov, Aleksey Zubarev and Andrey Surotdinov, as well as keyboardist Boris Rubekin, percussionist Oleg Shavkunov, Irish flutist Brian Finnegan and British rock brothers, Paul and Jeremy Stacey.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.aquarium.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 7,000Rbl.

concert halls and clubs Aurora concert hall QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru. Club A2 QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm. Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su. Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Jazz Philharmonic Hall QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru. Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru. Zal Ozhidaniya QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com. 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

04.12 Thursday 20:00 Andru Donalds Jamaican born singer/songwriter Andru Donalds is known today as a lead vocalist in the German musical project Enigma. However, Enigma is a studio-only group, so it’s truly a rare and valuable chance to hear one of the group’s most beautiful voices live in concert. Donalds has both the natural talent and high-level of training that make a vocalist truly great. Even before his Enigma days, Donalds’ solo-produced singles, including “Mishale” and “Save Me Now”, became worldwide hits. His solo work was also included in the soundtracks of the Oscar-winning American film Good Will Hunting and German blockbuster Barfuss. QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.facebook.com/andrudonalds. Tickets 1,320 - 3,850Rbl.

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04.12 Thursday 20:00 Enrique Iglesias It’s going to be a hot winter in St. Petersburg this year, as one of the world’s most famous Spanish singers prepares to bring his passion to Russia. Enrique Iglesias’ musical career has developed tremendously over the last few years, and he has become a true phenomenon in the world of music. Touring to promote his tenth studio album “Sex and Love“, Enrique has branched out into new genres to reach a wider audience. “Sex and Love“ also features guest performances by other famous artists including Kiley Minogue and Flo Rida. Let’s just hope the Ice Palace can stand the heat.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.enriqueiglesias.com. Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl. 05.12 Friday 20:00 Leningrad Sergei Shnurov, or “Shnur”, is known for being a rock pioneer - as front man of the Ska-punk band Leningrad since 1997, Shnur has never been afraid to go where no man has gone before. He’s been known to perform naked, use more profanities in his lyrics than seems possible, and generally voice what many may be thinking, but for whatever reason won’t say aloud. Leave your shy head bobbing at home and get ready for a high-energy performance where Shnur’s gravelly voice and Leningrad’s beloved brass section are sure to make you more than just tap your feet.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sosimc.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl. 05.12 Friday 23:00 DJ Format From the streets of Brighton, England, UK hip-hop artist Matt Ford, better known as DJ Format, arrives in St. Petersburg this December for a night of beats and rhymes at Birzha Bar. DJ Format, whose debut album “Music for the Mature B-Boy” was released in 2002, is known around the world for his mix of old school hip-hop beats, funk and soul as well as, in his most recent work, psychedelic rock, jazz and blues. He frequently collaborates with Canadian rapper/hip-hop artists Abdominal and D-sisive.QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.djformat.com. Tickets 500Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY

A SANCTUARY OF SERENITY AND SENSES WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA IN THE HEART OF THE CITY Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116 +7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27 www.thann-spa.ru 06.12 Saturday 19:00 Zveri Since their creation in 2001, the pop-rock group Zveri has played over 900 concerts, journeyed more than one million kilometres and won numerous Russian and foreign awards. The band’s name, literally “Beasts” in Russian, comes from the nickname of lead singer, Roma Zver. For the past year, the group has traveled to places they’d never been before. But they made sure to save their most exciting show of the year for Piter. Not only is Saturday night the band’s last show of the year, but it is also the eve of Roma’s 37th birthday. So come help them celebrate, Petersburg-style.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.zve.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.

December 2014 - January 2015

Culture & Events 06.12 Saturday 20:00 Matisyahu As a devoutly Orthodox reggae rapper, Matthew Miller, better known by his Hebrew stage name Matisyahu, is truly in a league of his own. The world-acclaimed musician is known for his unique style and sound, incorporating biblical and Orthodox Jewish themes into a blend of reggae, rock, hip-hop and traditional Jewish music. In 2011, Matisyahu shaved his famous beard as part of his personal journey into a new spiritual and artistic phase of his life. His latest album “Akedah”, the name for the biblical story of the binding of Isaac, was recorded in Israel and released in June 2014.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.matisyahuworld.com. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. 06.12 Saturday 20:00 Nina Karlsson Singer Nina Karlsson was born in St. Petersburg and graduated from the Saint Petersburg Conservatory. Her voice, however, is more than just highly-trained. Since 2008 she has been performing her unique fusion of jazz, rock and folk. Her incredible voice can move between a wide range of almost physical sensations and textures, from utter tenderness and delicacy to unbridled power. Come to her concert for her and her band’s musical talent, but stay for the atmosphere she will undoubtedly create - a warm, inviting, gentle and fun-loving performer, she’s absolutely guaranteed to warm your heart on a cold winter’s night. QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.ninakarlsson.com. Tickets 500 - 700Rbl. 06.12 Saturday 20:00 Tiger Lillies To confine the British trio to a single musical genre would be an injustice - part surreal vaudeville, part Brechtian cabaret and part gypsy punk is a passable start. Add to the mix lead vocalist and founder Martyn Jacques’ haunting and sorrowful falsetto and the trio’s wide assortment of instruments, including accordian and saw, and you have a recipe for a twisted, garish good time. The band arrives in St. Petersburg with one of their latest albums, entitled “Either Or”. If you’re curious what a night that combines blasphemous clownery and Kierkagardian philosphy looks like, be sure to save the date.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.tigerlillies.com. Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 07.12 Sunday 19:00 Dima Bilan The first Russian to win the “Eurovision” song contest with his single “Believe me” (2008), Dima Bilan has since won over millions of fans with his powerful voice, heart-felt lyrics and rugged good looks. Bilan’s latest show is named in honor of his age: he turns 33 at the end of December. But, as Bilan surely knows, 33 is no random number, but an historically magical and powerful one. The show promises to live up to its magical portent: Bilan hasn’t revealed all the details of the performance yet, leaving room to dazzle his guests.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.bilandima.ru. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl. 12.12 Friday 20:00 Einstürzende Neubauten For the first time after an almost seven-year pause, the legendary German p os t- in dus t r ial - n o is e experimental-electronic group celebrates the recent release of their latest project, “Lament”. The new album is a product of the group’s years of research on the First World War, composed of and inspired by historical fragments from their findings, which have been pieced together into a performative production. The album also exemplifies the group’s use of alternative sound-generating objects that create their particular, difficult to categorize sound. Take note, “Lament” was chiefly designed for live performance, since the experience of the project is more than just an aural one.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.neubauten.org. Tickets 1,500 - 2,600Rbl.

13.12 Saturday 19:00 Vanessa Mae Think winter fairytales and Christmas miracles. Against a backdrop of snow-dusted mountains, world-renowned violinist and Olympic alpine skier Vanessa-Mae will perform works from the great composers, including Vivaldi, Bach and Paganini, accompanied by a string orchestra and choir. The “princess of violin” launched her musical career at the tender age of nine. She has since grown from child prodigy to fullfledged star, not to mention Olympic athlete. She has both mastered the classical violin as well as created her very own contemporary sound, what she calls “violin techno-acoustic fusion”, which has won her prestigious awards and honors around the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.vanessamae.com. Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl.

16.12 Tuesday 20:00 Splean One the most-loved bands in Russia and the former Soviet bloc since 1994, Splean is a pop-/alt-rock group whose evolving sound has never failed to impress its listeners. This year, Splean released a new album, “Resonance”, in two parts, which the band is promoting on their current tour. Continuing the band’s tradition of literary play (“Splean” is a reference to a poem by Sasha Cherny), Part One of “Resonance” is chock full of literary and musical allusions. However, nothing too esoteric; discussing the new album, bandleader Alexander Vasilyev highlights its simplicity of form, mentioning Borges’ philosophies for comparison.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.splean.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.

13.12 Saturday 19:00 Diana Arbenina For Diana Arbenina and her band Nochnie Snauperi, 2014 has been a year of celebrations. Arbenina celebrated her 40th birthday, released her first solo album, and performed in strange and new places, like in an Amsterdam church and on a Moscow rooftop. Not to mention, the group, which Arbenina co-founded in 1993, restructured at the end of last year, and has since been creating new songs and rearranging old ones. Help welcome them back to their home city, where they will be performing in Petersburg’s Ice Palace for the first time.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.snipers.net. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.

19.12 Friday 20:00 Evgenia Zima Band Evgenia Zima - vocalist, violinist and self-proclaimed cultivator of band “drive” - calls her band’s music “a cocktail of sounds and euphoria”. They’re known for their vibrant, emotionally-charged, fuzzy jazz sound that transports audiences to the forgotten realm of childhood imagination and memory - to “happiness in its pure form”. The band uses instruments and languages from many cultures, while also infusing their music with a mix of genres, including rythm’n’ blues, hip-hop and swing. The best place to experience the Petersburg-based group’s undeniably good vibes would be in an intimate venue in their home city - just what Birzha Bar has to offer.QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.zimaband.ru. Tickets TBA.

15.12 Monday 20:00 AYO

20.12 Saturday 19:00 Emin

The Uruguayan actress and singer occupies a special place in the hearts of many Russians. Oreiro first gained her fame, and her Russian fanbase, acting in several popular Argentinean soap operas in the 90s. She kicked off her musical career with the release of her first solo album in 1998. Since then, she has gone on to build her career in film and music, landing leading roles and playing sold out concerts all over the world. For the many Russians who grew up watching and listening to Oreiro, this concert will be a chance for both nostalgia and surprise.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.nataliaoreiro.com. Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

She was born in Germany as Joy Olasunmibo Ogunmakin and later took the Yoruba translation of her name, “Ayo”, in honor of her Nigerian roots. The singersongwriter is known for her smooth, soulful voice and heart-wrenching lyrics. Her style is a mesmerizing medley of soul, jazz, folk, reggae and rock. Her debut album “Joyful” (2006) received Double-Platinum, Patinum and Gold statuses in Europe. Not only has AYO’s musical talent received international recognition, but her humanitarion efforts have also been honored: in 2009 she was appointed international ambassador of UNICEF for the promotion of the right to education for all children.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. ayomusic.com. Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl.

Born in Baku and raised in Moscow, it was in the US that Emin’s career got a significant boost when he got to experience his first live performance. Emin’s music spans a wide range of genres, taking in everything from dance with a dash of electronic to classical ballads. With a cv including performances at Eurovision an opening set for Jennifer Lopez, not to mention a handful of Grammy nominations, Emin has certainly earned his stripes as an artist. His new album “Amor“ combines Spanish flamenco and guitar music to create a flavourful mix of music dedicated to the most important feeling of all - love.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.emin-music.com. Tickets 600 - 3,500Rbl.

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December 2014 - January 2015

12.12 Friday 20:00 Natalia Oreiro

Culture & Events 21.12 Sunday Johann Strauss Snow White Ball Show If you appreciate classical music and dance, the Johann Strauss Snow White Ball Show is the one event this season that you really don’t want to miss. Featuring some of Russia’s finest solo artists and dance groups, the show aims to create a magical evening for all of its guests, and if you come dressed in white you will even receive a special New Years’ gift. Do not expect to just sit and watch the show, as well-known compositions such as the Radetzky March will allow you to participate in this spectacle. If you have plans to celebrate the holiday season in St. Petersburg, keep an eye out for this event.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo. spb.ru. Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

cinema If you are looking for a night at the movies without having to play some sophisticated form of charades to work out what’s going on - we have good news for you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show movies in English or their original language. If you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t pass up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies. Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru. Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru. Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru. Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru. 14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 27.12 Saturday - 29.11 Saturday The Ugly Duckling

This New Year’s the creators of “Darwin the Dinosaur” return to St. Petersburg for another brilliant performance. The American troupe Lightwire Theater presents their show “The Ugly Duckling”, based on the beloved fable by Hans Christian Andersen. The touching, timeless story is brought to life by the incredible technical mastery of Lightwire Theater’s signature electroluminescent puppetry. The entire show, including the opening act, a staging of “The Tortoise and the Hare”, is performed without words, in the universal language of gesture, emotion and music. The show is extremely family friendly, especially suited for children ages three to eight.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www. lightwiretheater.com. Tickets 900 - 1,900Rbl.

through 27.12 Saturday Tim Parshikov. Kotlovan Like Andrey Platonov’s symbolic novel of the same name, Time Parshikov’s solo photography exhibit, “Kotlovan” (translated as “the foundation pit”), tells the story of a postindustrial factory city. In Parshikov’s case, it is the city of Magnitogorsk in the Southern Urals. The city was the first monogorod - a city built for a factory - in the USSR, a product of Stalin’s first Five-Year Plan. Today Manitogorsk is one of the dirtiest cities in the world and its almost half a million residents live under a sky screened by factory smog. In his photographs, Parshikov captures the post-apocalyptic atmosphere of a city in which time seems to have come to a standstill.QD-4, Marina Gisich Gallery, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www. gisich.com. Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Exhibitions through 13.09.2015 Sunday “The ball roars, the ball gleams…” St. Petersburg Social Entertainment in the 18th-20th centuries With over 300 displays from the State Museum of St. Petersburg History and the Russian National Library, this exhibition submerges visitors in the infamous center of the Imperial capital’s social life - the ball. At the heart of the exhibit are the splendor and luxury of ball attire and accessories. Photographs, posters and advertisements are also on display and demonstrate the incredible variety of Petersburg balls over time, from the Imperial through the early Soviet eras. The exhibit also features interactive events, including lectures on the history of ball attire and master classes, where you can learn to dance the waltz or communicate in the secret language of fans and decorative flowers.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 80 - 150Rbl.

through 14.01 Wednesday St. Petersburg in the work of 19th century German Photographers Part of the history of St. Petersburg is the history of the city’s representation in foreign art. The photographic exhibition currently on display in the Peter and Paul Fortress was organized within the context of the project “Fotorossika”, whose goal is the study of foreign-produced photo-iconography of Russia. The work of German photographers of the Imperial capital plays a particularly significant role in the formation of the 19th-early 20th century photo-iconography of the city. The exhibition is composed of about 80 photographs of the city, taken by four 19th century German photographers, who worked in widely different genres, including photo-portraiture and reportage.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. spbmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.

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MONET to cezanne

20.11 Thursday - 31.03 Tuesday Monet to Cezanne the French Impressionists From the creators and organizers of “Van Gogh Alive” comes a new multimedia exhibition-event - the world premier of “Monet to Cezanne - the French Impressionists”. St. Petersburg will be the first city in the world to view this stunning new project by Australian company Grand Exhibitions, brought to St. Petersburg by IVision, the company’s exclusive Russian representatives. The exhibition breaks far beyond the boundaries of the usual gallery-spectator experience. Using the latest SENSORY 4 TM technology, including large-scale projections on dozens of screens, multi-channel animated graphics and surround sound, the gallery-space is utterly transformed into an immersive, participatory experience, where the ‘viewer’ is able to literally step into and walk through the painted worlds of the French Impressionist masters. Projections of pieces by Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cezanne and others reveal subtle details and unexpected angles and transport viewers back to the streets of 19th century Paris, re-creating the bright bohemian atmosphere with colors, light and shadow, accompanied by the music of Debussy, Tchaikovsky, Ravel and Offenbach. Not only is the show completely immersive - it is also interactive: keep your eye out for the livefeed Twitter-wall (#monet2cezanne) and the “School of Impressionism” art-zone, where you can make your own attempts to paint like the masters.QB-3, Lenexpo Exhibition Complex, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, pavilion 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 791 58 28. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Tickets 350Rbl, Sat and Sun 450Rb. Family ticket (2 adults plus 1 or 2 kids) 900/1,000Rbl, Sat and Sun 1,000/1,100Rbl.

December 2014 - January 2015

Features

Culture & Events through 03.02 Tuesday А dedication to Mikhail Matyushin The Museum of the Petersburg Avant-garde presents an exhibition honoring 80 years since the death of Russian painter, art theorist, musician, composer and teacher, Mikhail Vasilevich Matyushin. Matyushin was born in Nizhny Novgorod in 1861. In the 1910s-20s, he was an active participant in the Russian Futurist movement and with his own group “Zorved” experimented with perceptions of color, form and space, forming the foundational principles of the “organic school” of the Russian avantgarde. The current exhibition in Matyushin’s honor features 28 pieces from eleven artists, in whose works are visible contemporary re-workings of ideas and principles that Matyushin introduced and developed in the beginning of the 20th century.QD-1, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avantgarde, ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Fri 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 60 - 100Rbl. through 01.03 Sunday Alexander Samokhvalov. 1894-1971 The Russian Museum presents a solo exhibition of the works of Soviet painter Alexander Nikolaevich Samokhvalov (1894-1971). The exhibition is a full retrospective of the artist’s works, consisting of over 250 pieces. Samokhvalov is best known for his work during the 1920s-1930s, when he painted his most recognized monumental patriotic paintings of Soviet youth and the New Soviet Person. Though the exhibition will pay special attention to this fundamental period of Samokhvalov’s work, it will also display the full breadth of his artistic mastery, including his work in mediums other than painting and graphic art, such as sculpture, porcelain painting, posters and architectural drawings.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl.

03.12 Wednesday - 01.02 Sunday Drevlekhranilishche: Archive of Monuments of Russian Icon-painting and Ecclesiastical Art The Russian Museum presents an exhibition in celebration of 100 years since the opening of the Drevlekhranilishche in honor of Emporer Nikolai II. The exhibition of around 600 works tells the story of the formation of the Museum’s collection of ecclesiastical antiques from 1897 to 1914. Before the museum first opened its doors in 1898, and until 1914, the Museum’s collection of ancient icons and ecclesiastical pieces grew, both from private donations and from state-sanctioned searches for ancient pieces. The works will be grouped according to the collections they came from and the exhibition space is designed to recreate the atmosphere of the first Museum exhibitions in 1898 and 1914.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl. 06.12 Saturday - 30.01 Friday Samurai. 47 Ronin A rōnin is a samurai with no master. The 18th century Japanese legend of the 47 rōnin is a tragic and powerful story of revenge and honor. On December 6th, the St. Petersburg Artillery Museum presents an immersive, interactive exhibition-project that will transport visitors to the world of ancient Japan, where the legend of the 47 rōnin took place. The exhibition brings together rare displays, never-before-seen artifacts, and the best pieces from the preceding exhibition, “Samurai. The Art of War.” In a recreated Edo city, visitors are invited to participate in expert-led master classes, dress in traditional Samurai costumes, use the Samurai sword, learn calligraphy, origami, engraving and kimono wearing.QD-2, Artillery Museum, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 33 01, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 150 - 400Rbl.

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St. Petersburg Theatre life It would be a shame to come to Russia’s cultural capital and not partake in any of the city’s wide array of theater, music and dance offerings. This winter season the city is brimming with holiday cheer and festive New Year’s season productions. Now is the time to catch an unforgettable show at an unforgettable venue. If you’ve heard anything about St. Petersburg, you will have heard of the legendary Mariinsky Theatre (www.mariinsky.ru). Opened in 1860 and now in its 232nd season, the theatre was home to premieres of works by many of the Russian greats, like Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky and Rimsky Korsakov. On the site of a burnt down Equestrian Circus, the architect Albert Cavos designed a new opera and ballet theatre to be the largest of its kind in the world, with a full capacity of 1,625. In 1886, after the Bolshoy Kamenny Theatre was deemed unsafe, Mariinsky was lavishly renovated as the new home of the Imperial Ballet and played host to many of premiere shows from the master choreographer, Marius Petipa. Originally named after Empress Maria Alexandrovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theatre was known throughout most of the Soviet era as the Kirov Theatre, but changed to its present name, the State Academic Mariinsky Theatre, in 1992. The world renowned conductor Valery Gergiev has presided over affairs there since 1988, meeting the Russian public’s high demand with a stream of almost constant concerts. Since 2007, Gergiev has had to juggle his role at the Mariinsky with another prestigious role as Principal Conductor of the London Symphony Orchestra, making him one of the busiest and certainly best travelled conductors around today. Those looking for a classic holiday Mariinsky experience will jump straight to this season’s production of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece, The Nutcracker. The ballet first premiered in the then Kirov Theatre on February 18, 1934. This season, the ballet will be performed by the Vaganova Academy of Russian Ballet, with Vasily Vainonen’s 1934 choreography. Delighting generations of viewers, young and old, The Nutcracker is the perfect festive treat for the whole family. For the holiday-minded but more opera-inclined, the Mariinsky www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

offers a production of Rimsky-Korsakov’s opera Christmas Eve, which first premiered at the Mariinsky on December 10, 1895, though this particular production only premiered on December 31, 2008. The show will open December 17th and will be performed in Russian with synchronised English subtitles. For the less holiday-inspired, the Mariinsky presents its production of the timeless classic Swan Lake. Inspired by the ballet writing of Delibes, Tchaikovsky composed most of the ballet in just one year, using the idea of Leitmotif, famously made popular in Wagner’s operatic writing, to bring out distinctive melodies weaving the story together. Despite the premiere in 1877 being something of a flop, the ballet’s enduring popularity means it will surely never leave the Mariinsky. This year’s production is based on the Kirov Theatre’s own 1950 premiere of Konstantin Sergeyev’s choreography. More from the revered Tchaikovsky comes in the form of the opera Eugene Onegin, the Kirov’s own 1982 version, with helpful English subtitles to guide you through the full length of this Russian masterpiece. Also appearing on Mariinsky’s main stage this winter is Marius Petipa’s version of the fantasy ballet Giselle, with music from Adolphe Adam.

In recent years, the Mariinsky has begun to colonise the surrounding area - the sleek contemporary walls of glass which peer out behind the back of the main theatre constitute the hall’s sparkling new younger brother, the Mariinsky II. The hall’s interior curves back in a horseshoe shape from the main stage with clean lines and wood paneling, and the fantastic new acoustics and technology have been duly noted by all reviewers. The bright interior breathes elegance over a crowd enjoying a glass of preDecember 2014 - January 2015

Features concert champagne and the performances themselves range from classic repertoire to more contemporary works completely at home in the setting. This season, the Mariinsky II proudly presents its own new version of Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin, premiered in February 2014 as a co-production with the National Centre for the Performing Arts (Beijing). A marriage of the music of the celebrated Russian composer Rodion Shchedrin and the choreographer Aleksey Ratmansky appears on the Mariinsky II’s new playbill in the form of the ballet Anna Karenina, based on Tolstoy’s novel, with Ratmansky’s 2010 choreography. A production of Puccini’s Madama Butterfly, which premiered at the Mariinsky in 2005, will run several performances over the winter, ranking seventh in the most performed operas worldwide. This fall, the Mariinsky hosted the world premiere of director Alain Maratrat’s production of Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia, widely regarded as the opera buffa of all ‘opere buffe’. The opera will be performed through December 21st.

However, the new addition to the family, the Mariinsky II, ought not to overshadow the Mariinsky Concert Hall, just a stone’s throw away on Ulitsa Dekabristov- a world class chamber concert hall in its own right. Opened in 2006 on the site of the hundred-year-old set workshops for the Mariinsky Theatre, which were damaged in a fire, the hall’s contemporary interior makes for the highest-quality acoustics, while still retaining the old facade that survived the fire. The hall competes with the finest contemporary concert halls worldwide, such as Berlin’s Philharmonie, the Birmingham Symphony Hall and the Lucerne Concert Hall, and caters to the demands of a Mariinsky programme now spilling over three venues. The hall as usual features high profile acts from around the world as well as the resident Mariinsky orchestra, where classic Wagner Galas and Russian favourites will be the stars of the show. Benjamin Britten’s opera A Midsummer Night’s Dream returns to the Concert Hall after its premiere there in 2011 - entering the standard repertoire soon after its premiere in 1960, it is an exponent of Britten’s very specific subtle style, while not being overtly dissonant. This season the Concert Hall will host the International Piano Festival, which opens on December 22nd and runs until December 28th. The festival opens with a not-to-be-missed performance of works by Rimsky-Korsakov, Rachmaninoff and Scriabin, conducted by theatre director Valery Gergiev and featuring soloist Daniil Trifonov on piano. The modern Concert Hall’s impressive acoustics will hopefully ensure that the festival continues for years to come. 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Features The lavish luxury of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (www. mikhailovsky.ru) echoes the elegance of the Mariinsky and, with an admirable history from its founding in 1833, can proudly declare itself one of Russia’s most distinguished performance venues. Named after Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich of Russia, the theatre was established after a decree from Tsar Nicholas I, and played host to visiting French companies until the Bolsheviks took power in 1917. In a somewhat contentious move, the Russian businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed as the theatre’s General Director, and fortunately poured 1 billion roubles into the theatre’s refurbishment before winding up bankrupt in London in 2012. This winter season, the theatre presents a host of exciting recently-premiered shows and events. The opera Manon Lescaut, considered one of Giacomo Puccini’s finest works, which premiered at the Mikhailovsky in October, returns to the stage on December 2nd and 3rd. The opera was originally staged in 1893 in Turin and the libretto is based on the 1753 novel L’histoire du Chevalier des Grieux et de Manon Lescaut by the Abbé Prévost. The Mikhailovsky’s new production of the piece, created by Jurgen Flimm and George Tsypin, adapts the opera’s setting from eighteenth century to early twentieth century Paris. The original ‘emotional content’ of the opera is retained, but presented afresh with film noir-esque lighting, set design and costumes. Just a week after this incredible premiere, on December 11, the Theatre presents the last staging for the year of the opera masterpiece Il trovatore, which premiered at the Mikhailovsky in November. This particular production, created by Dmitri Tcherniakov, was first staged in 2012 at the La Monnaie Theatre in Brussels and became one of Europe’s most widely discussed opera productions. On the 5th and 7th of December, the theatre presents international ballet project Kings of Dance, presenting work from dancers and choreographers from all over the planet. Family favorites at Mikhailovsky this Decmber include a production of The Nutcracker, with choreography by Nacho Duato, as well as Karen Khachaturian’s children’s ballet Cipollino, which will no doubt be a popular Sunday hit for the younger generations. In addition, an operatic production of Grimm’s classic fairytale, Hansel and Gretel, premieres on December 13th. Finally, on December 31st, The Mikhailovsky presents its by now traditional New Year Gala Concert. The celebratory concert begins just six hours before the start of 2015 and promises festive surprises and lots of pre-New Year’s energy.

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This fall saw the premier of the theatrical masterpiece, “Memories of the future”, based on Mikhail Lermontov’s original drama “Masquerade”. This production is directed by the Alexandrinsky’s artistic director and people’s artist of Russia, Valery Fokin, and was carefully re-constructed and staged following Vsevolod Meyerhold’s 1917 performance. This incredible project provided the opening performance for the theatre’s Eighth International Theatre Festival in celebration of 200 years since Mikhail Lermontov’s birth. Be sure not to miss your chance to see this exciting and important production this winter season. The dazzling white columns and glittering chandeliers of the St. Petersburg Shostakovich Academic Philharmonia (www.philharmonia.spb.ru) distinguishes the space before the music even starts. The architecturally notable venue has seen some of the finest performers from not only Russia but all over the world since the 1840s and continues to offer high-class performances. A busy forthcoming programme includes chamber music, orchestral works and jazz, featuring many international acts and both of the hall’s residents, the St. Petersburg Philharmonic or Symphony Orchestras. The coming months include a wide array of jazz and classic performances, a celebration of the 100th anniversary of Avenir Mikhailov, another celebration of the 150th anniversary of Alexander Siloti, a festival from the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra, running from December 14th to December 25th, as well as a Festive New Years Concert performed by the State Hermitage Orchestra with baritone Vasily Garello and a New Year’s Eve Concert on December 30th and 31st by the St. Petersburg Symphony Orchestra.

The Tovstonogov Bolshoy Drama Theatre, or BDT (www.bdt.spb. ru), on the Fontanka takes its name from Georgy Tovstonogov, the theatre’s highly regarded director from 1956 to 1989, and is considered one of the finest theatres in Russia. Pioneered by Maxim Gorky, Maria Andreeva, Alexander Blok and Anatoly Lunacharsky after the 1917 revolution, the Osobaya Drammaticheskaya Truppa (Special Drama Company) debuted in 1918 with the intention of staging classics for the masses, and eventually found its permanent home at 65 Fontanka embankment, at the former Suvorin Theatre. This September, the BDT celebrated its reopening after several years of closure for renovation and reconstruction. Make sure to visit the theatre and experience this season’s offerings in the newly-renovated space.

The title of oldest Russian national theatre is one that the legendary Alexandrinsky Theatre (www.alexandrinsky.ru) can boast. Established on August 30 1756, the day of Saint Alexander Nevsky, the theatre was originally named after Alexandra Fyodorovna, wife of Nikolai I. The imposing structure was designed by the popular Italian architect, Carlo Rossi, who worked for most of his life in Russia, his legacy also including the bright white Yelagin Palace and the Mikhailovsky Theatre. The theatre’s performance history practically runs as an A to Z of the nation’s greatest actors and directors; premieres of great works from the likes of Aleksander Griboyedov, Aleksander Ostrovsky, and Aton Chekhov have all taken place there. To add to the venue’s star-studded history and graceful architecture, the 250th anniversary of the theatre in 2006 heralded the unveiling of new renovations, introducing 21st century technological capabilities to the historic venue.

In 1944 the Maly Drama Theatre (www.mdtdodin.ru) took upon its shoulders the important burden of continuing the city’s theatre productions at a time when most companies had been evacuated. The theatre started life humbly performing as and when it could without a permanent home. Gradually picking up support from the public, the theatre began to gather momentum through the involvement of Lev Dodin in 1974, who has served as the theatre’s chief director since 1983 and artistic director since 2002. Also going by the name ‘Théâtre de l’Europe’, tourists will be pleased to know that English subtitles are often offered here. The theatre regularly participates and holds workshops in theatre festivals around the world, and Dodin himself has taught at St. Petersburg State Theatre Arts Academy since 1969 and holds the position of head of the stage direction department. The Chamber Stage auditorium, an intimate hall seating just fifty people, is the latest addition to the theatre - a space for young actors and directors to test their talents.

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December 2014 - January 2015

Feature

Features

WINTER HOLIDAYS IN ST. PETERSBURG Whoever said that permanent twilight and freezing wind should keep you from having a good time? That’s right: no one. So stop shivering, grab your hat and mittens – actually, maybe a scarf as well – and join us as we look at the best of what St. Petersburg has on offer for the hardy and the hearty. 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Winter in the northern capital is notoriously harsh; biting cold, ominous rooftop icicles, lots of snow and wind, very little sunlight. Many people might balk at the idea of visiting the city in its potentially coldest, darkest time (e.g. December). But we beg to differ, and we hope you’ll soon see why. First things first, your visit can and should be seen as a rite of passage: you have the opportunity to experience the city as natives experience it, every year. The summer’s famed White Nights really only give you a tiny glimpse into what it means to live in Peter’s city. And beyond that, for those who’ve decided to brave the Russian winter – and that means you – we hope it will soon become clear that the cultural capital during the winter holidays is truly a magical place in its own right. The cold of winter, however, is no fairytale. For your comfort and safety, we recommend that you dress appropriately – and that means bundle up! If what you’ve brought isn’t quite cutting it, you can always find some hand-crafted woollen goodies – socks, gloves, scarves, hats, mittens, you name it – from vendors that set up shop outside of the metros. But enduring the Russian cold and dark and going home to tell the tale is not even close to the full story – Petersburg in the winter is an utterly transformed and undeniably gorgeous spectacle. This city knows how to look good in the dark. Taking a walk along the Neva embankment in the winter is an unforgettable, almost dreamlike experience. The Neva’s majestic waves are frozen mid crash, the illuminated buildings along the embankment are reflected in the ice-encrusted waves and the graceful bridges glitter and sparkle against a clear night sky. And that’s all before even considering the city’s monumental preparations for Russia’s most-celebrated winter holiday – the New Year. Already in December, the city begins to gather its strength for its most extravagant, celebratory time. The first ten days of January are officially declared non-labour days, so the entire country gets off work to celebrate. Between the huge light constructions, epic firework displays, hundreds of performances, shows and celebrations, and a whole host of Russian New Year traditions – from eating salad Olivier and tangerines to watching The Irony of Fate – it would be impossible not to be both impressed and entertained during the holiday season. Below you’ll find our recommendations for where to go and what to do to celebrate this holiday season in St. Petersburg. Whether you’re looking to have an intimate family gathering or to attend a huge public party, we want to make sure you can celebrate the holidays however you’d like to. We’ve put together a list of traditions, suggestions, activities and events, from eating, shopping and family-friendly activities to getting some holiday rest and relaxation, that will help you make this holiday season one of the best yet.

restaurant in the 1860s. He composed the original gourmet version from grouse, veal tongue, caviar, lettuce, capers and gherkins. The recipe for the salad, and for the dressing in particular, was kept a carefully guarded secret. One thing is for certain, there were definitely no potatoes or tinned peas involved! Over the years the recipe has changed with the changing availability of different products. Today’s version of the salad has travelled rather far from the original, and includes plentiful helpings of spam-like sausage and boiled vegetables, smothered in mayonnaise. Apart from salad Olivier, the New Year’s table traditionally features a bountiful spread of other salads, such as the classic, also mayonnaise-drenched “herring under a fur coat” and other assorted hot and cold snacks (zakuski). Along with the savoury snacks, the table is piled with fruit that at one time was hard to come by in the winter months, such as tangerines and pineapple. The national party drink is of course shampanskoe (champagne), which is generally also available in abundance and comes in several varieties, from bryut (dry) to the sickly sladkoe (sweet), to the most popular, polusladkoe (semi-sweet).

Visit Grand Father Frost

The first thing on any Russian’s list of must-have New Year’s dishes is without question salad Olivier. Beyond Russia’s borders, Olivier is also known simply as “Russian salad”. The seasonal treat was named after its alleged creator, French chef Lucien Olivier, who was touted as a fashionable gourmet of 19th century Moscow, heading up the exclusive Hermitage

Despite its current status in some parts of the world as a shopping-driven, capitalist free for all, the Christmas holiday does in fact have religious significance. So, naturally, the celebration of Christmas was banned from Soviet society early on. In fact, in the early Soviet years, celebrations of both the religious Christmas and the secular New Year were both forbidden, along with the beloved traditions of giftgiving and fir tree decorating. However, in 1935, the powers that were re-introduced the celebration of the New Year in the Soviet Union and with it came all of the winter festivity and holiday spirit of Christmas, not to mention many traditional Christmas symbols and rituals, transforming New Year in Russia into the kind of mega-holiday it remains to this day. The traditional Christmas tree became the yolka, or New Year’s tree and under the tree, good little Russian children are left gifts from a magical, wintery fatherly figure, known as Ded Moroz (Grand Father Frost). However, Ded Moroz is more than simply a direct equivalent to the famous ruddy-cheeked, white-bearded, jolly man of Christmas legend, sometimes called Father Christmas or Santa Claus. In fact, quite to the contrary. Before he was associated with Christmas or New Year’s, Ded Moroz originally appeared in Slavic mythology as an evil spirit, who personi-

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December 2014 - January 2015

A Russian New Year feast

Features

A poem for Christmas Beginning in 1962, Soviet-Russian-American poet, Joseph Brodsky, who jokingly referred to himself as “a Christian by correspondence,” took on the task of writing a poem for every Christmas. The Christmas poems stretch through his career from 1962 all the way to 1995, just before his death in January 1996. When asked why he was so attracted by Christmas, Brodsky, who was both Soviet by birth and Jewish by heritage, once replied that it was more the scene of a birth and the waking of consciousness that fascinated him, rather than the nativity story as a whole – “I liked that concentration of everything in one place - which is what you have in that cave scene.” The poem we have chosen from Brodsky’ Christmas cycle was translated by Irish poet, playwright and translator, Seamus Heaney. The poem was written towards the end of the cycle and of the poet’s life. Imagine striking a match that night in the cave: use the cracks in the floor to feel the cold. Use crockery in order to feel the hunger. And to feel the desert - but the desert is everywhere. Imagine striking a match in that midnight cave, the fire, the farm beasts in outline, the farm tools and stuff; and imagine, as you towel your face in the towel’s folds, the bundled up Infant. And Mary and Joseph. Imagine the kings, the caravans’ stilted procession as they make for the cave, or rather three beams closing in and in on the star; the creaking of loads, the clink of a cowbell; (but in the cerulean thickening over the Infant no bell and no echo of bell: He hasn’t earned it yet.) Imagine the Lord, for the first time, from darkness, and stranded immensely in distance, recognising Himself in the Son, of Man: homeless, going out to Himself in a homeless one. (Translated by Seamus Heaney, 2001) fied the cold of winter. He cried tears of icicles and travelled across the country by foot, freezing lakes and rivers along the way with the touch of his staff. The original tradition of gift-giving was also at one time reversed: parents would put out presents for Ded Moroz as an offering to dissuade him from stealing their children. Over time, the spirit’s image softened and he was eventually transformed into the warm-hearted bearer of presents and good cheer – closer to his Christmas equivalents in Europe and the States. In 1935, when the Soviet Union re-embraced the celebration of the New Year, Ded Moroz was formally incorporated into 22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

the holiday’s narrative. Under the orders of none other than Stalin himself, the new, and by now familiar, version of Ded Moroz donned a blue, fur-lined uniform and acquired a companion, Snegurochka (the snow maiden). According to the story, the beautiful young blonde maiden is Ded Moroz’s granddaughter. In the past two decades the pair have also gained two official residences: one in Veliky Ustyug (a village in the Vologda region) and one in Belavezhskaya Pushcha, Belarus. If you’d like to meet Ded Moroz and Snegurochka, head to one of the many public yolka shows, which take place in the city’s parks and theatres in the weeks leading up to New Year’s Eve. During these shows kids are entertained by pantomime-style stories featuring cuddly fairytale characters. Some of the more elaborate yolka shows are even performed on ice rinks.

Russian Christmas Since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, the religious holiday of Christmas has been celebrated once again in Russia as an officially recognized holiday. However, the celebration of Christmas in Russia remains primarily a religious, and more specifically a Russian Orthodox, tradition. As such, Christmas is celebrated not on December 25th, but, following the Julian calendar, on January 7th. For those observing the holiday, on Christmas Eve there are midnight masses at churches all over the city, starting around 22:00. The masses are followed by all-night vigils and yet more services in the morning. According to Orthodox tradition, there is a Lenten fast for the 40 days leading up to Christmas, during which many types of food are given up, such as meat and dairy products. Traditionally, the fast is broken on Christmas Eve when the first star appears in the night sky. Just like at New Year’s celebrations, a large family meal is central to Christmas Eve festivities. Some Orthodox families eat a symbolic twelve-course meal, in which each particular dish honours one of the twelve apostles. Some of the twelve traditional dishes include baked fish, sweet cakes made from honey and kutya, a milky porridge made from poppy seeds, wheatberries, honey and nuts. But never fear! If you’re here for the holidays and looking to celebrate Christmas on December 25th, there are several options available. If you’d like to attend mass, the Catholic Church of St. Catherine is conveniently located on Nevsky and holds midnight and morning masses on Christmas Eve (December 24th) and Christmas day (take note, masses will most likely be conducted in Russian). For festive Christmas gatherings, many upscale hotels also offer their own special celebratory Christmas parties, markets, dinners and brunches, for those looking to mark the occasion with family, friends and fellow guests. For more details on which hotels are offering what this season, see pages 25-26. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

New Year Street parties The annual New Year celebrations on Nevsky Prospekt and Palace Square are both chaotic and fun. St. Petersburg residents love a good street party and New Year’s Eve is no exception. With fireworks and champagne corks flying all over the place, the public gatherings are not exactly quiet affairs. The designated party area generally starts around Gostiny Dvor and extends up Nevsky to the river and Palace Square. The entire stretch of Nevsky is closed to traffic and as midnight approaches, the area fills with revellers. By all means get into the spirit, hug some random strangers, enjoy a plastic cup of Sovietskoye shampanskoye and greet everyone with a hearty “S Novym Godom!” (“Happy New Year!”). But, always remember to keep an eye on your belongings, as the New Year season can unfortunately also be a productive time for less upstanding members of society. To make sure that everyone gets home safely after the big party, the metro will begin running early in the AM, beginning at 04:00.

Skating and skiing Wrapping up warm and taking part in some winter sports is an excellent way to take advantage of the icy weather during the long New Year holiday. Outdoor ice-skating is one of the best options the city has to offer. If you are looking for a lot of space to show off your racing skills and pirouettes, Park Pobedy (metro Park Pobedy) has the largest outdoor skating rink in the city. On the other hand, the frozen pond at Yelagin ostrov (metro Staraya Derevnya), which sits modestly in the shadow of the elegant Yelagin Palace, is perfect for those who prefer a more quiet, romantic glide around the ice, holding hands under twinkling fairy lights. If you are interested in skiing, you can visit one of the small ski resorts located outside the city, such as Igora (www.igora.biz) or Kurort Snezhny (www.snegny.ru). As well as small downhill slopes, both parks also offer outdoor ice-skating, sledging and crosscountry skiing through pine forests.

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fortune telling

Christmas Eve Fortune Telling, 19th century. Artist Konstantin Makovsky

The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed to be a particularly auspicious time for fortune telling. Many Russians still like to take carry out various old Slavic fortune telling rituals and have some superstitious fun. In the olden days it was believed that during this time of the year, the souls of dead ancestors would roam the earth checking on the lives of their children and grandchildren. According to tradition, the most accurate predictions are given on the night of old New Year’s Day, January 13th. Below you’ll find some of the most popular fortune-telling traditions, most of which are simple enough to try at home. Wax: This fortune telling ritual involves melting wax and pouring it onto cold water. Upon contact with the water, the wax solidifies into a shape. From this shape, you must discern what the future will bring you. If it is a house, you will live well this year. If it is a circle or circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind of fruit or animal takes shape, you will have good health. If it is a man, then you know what that means! Paper: Crumple up some paper, put it on a tray and set fire to it. When it stops burning, lift the tray up to a wall and shine some light on it. The burnt paper should cast a shadow onto the wall. Following the wax shape guidelines above, you can predict the coming year’s luck from the shape of the shadow. King of Diamonds: Take a deck of playing cards and remove the King of Diamonds. Put it under your pillow on a night between the 6th and the 13th of December and you will dream of your future husband(s). Lucky Dip: Find a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a hook. Lay them on a table and cover them with a piece of cloth or napkin. Have someone re-arrange them under the cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If you choose the ring, your future husband will be vain. If you get the bread, your husband will be rich. If you get the hook, your husband will be poor. Other versions of the lucky dip can involve a baby’s sock (predicting an imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth) and a key (for a new home). December 2014 - January 2015

Features Christmas Fair

Another destination for unique hand-crafted gifts and souvenirs is the annual St. Petersburg International Christmas Fair, which takes place this year on Pionerskaya pl. (metro Zvenigorodskaya) from December 19th to January 11th. The fair not only features vendors selling Christmas and New Year’s gifts and food, but also booths representing different countries from all over the world, including the UK, the US, China, Spain, Germany, and many more. During the fair, each country’s booth will present their respective cultural holiday traditions, foods and favourite holiday-season entertainments. The fair also features a stage, where live performances will take place daily, and an ice-skating rink. As a special holiday bonus, children under the age of 16 get to skate for free!

24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Features Warm up in the banya A banya is a traditional Russian sauna and/or bath house. For some, going to the banya is a social event, that involves friends and family and possibly lots of drinking. For others, including the few remaining communal-flat residents, bathing at public banyas is just the normal way to wash oneself. For this reason, there are many types of banyas to choose from. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms and places to chill out and change clothes. Banyas usually have male and female sections, or alternate between men’s and women’s days. Private banyas are also available for reservation, if you’d like to get a group of friends together and have one all to yourselves. The health benefits of having a good old sweat are many and well-documented. If you opt in for a true Russian banya experience, you can also get the blood flowing with a proper Russian banya beating using veniki, which are different types of aromatic branches, bundled together and used as healthful switches. Bateninskie bany QUl. Aleksandra Matrosova 2, MLesnaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 88 99, www.batbani.ru. Degtyarnie Bathhouses QE-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 41 04, www.d1a.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A Kazachie bany QD-3, Bol. Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Open 24hrs.

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Holidays at hotels Now you know that New Year in Russia is hands down the biggest party of the year. But the celebratory spirit extends well beyond New Year’s Eve. Whichever winter holiday you’d like to celebrate, we want to make sure you find the best place to do so. Holidays always have their share of stresses - preparing food, hosting family or friends, buying gifts, decorating. The list goes on. But we do it all, year after year, because the magical moments that happen during the holidays are worth all the effort and the memories can be cherished for a lifetime. Of course, if you’re spending the holidays away from home, you may have entirely different concerns, likely beginning with the two pressing questions when and where to celebrate? This holiday season, many of St. Petersburg’s best hotels would like to play host to you and your family’s winter holiday festivities, in whatever form they may take. Forget the fuss of cooking, or the hassles of playing host and head down to a hotel where you can let the professionals handle the work. Sit down together for a delicious Christmas meal with all your classic holiday favourites, drink champagne on New Year’s Eve with friends, family and new acquaintances, or spend an evening watching a holiday-themed concert or show. However you’d like to celebrate, we hope you’ll find what you’re looking for! On New Year’s Eve, beginning at 22:00, the Azimut Hotel invites you to welcome in the new year not in Petersburg, but in 1930s Berlin. The one-night only event is designed to immerse you in the world of the musical “Cabaret”. The festivities include live cabaret shows, music performances, decadent amounts of champagne, a “Kit Kat Klub”-themed menu and a raffle. For a more intimate, personalized party or event, the Corinthia Hotel offers to play host in their beautiful facilities and help you design the perfect evening for family, friends or colleagues. You can either choose from an array of carefully put together prefix menus, featuring traditional Russian dishes and delicacies, and festive beverage packages, or consult with the hotel’s Conference and Events Department to create your own. Corinthia is also hosting a New Year’s Eve Gala, featuring champagne, an exquisite dinner menu and live jazz in their Imperial restaurant. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Any evening from December 24th to January 8th the Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky hotel invites you and your family to enjoy specially prepared Christmas dishes and desserts at the hotel’s Pierrot restaurant. The hotel also presents a New Year’s Eve celebration, which includes a three-course meal, live music, a DJ set and unlimited beverages, plus New Year’s surprises. Children under five are welcome free of charge. For guests who’d like to stay the night, the hotel is also offering a deluxe New Year’s night package, that includes both the evening’s party at Pierrot restaurant and a buffet breakfast on New Year’s day. The Domina Prestige Hotel has also created a New Year’s Eve party to remember. The night’s events open with a cocktail party where guests are invited to watch the hotel’s chef create a brand new New Year’s dish before their eyes. The evening continues with banquet-style dining, with all the Russian New Year’s favourites, live music, DJs and dancing late into the night. For families with young children, the world-renowned Belmond Grand Hotel Europe has put together an incredible array of gifts, activities and events that are sure to delight and mesmerize the whole family. For parents, the hotel has made last minute Christmas shopping easy, with their selection of Christmas Sets, handmade festive packages of local and seasonal specialties, which make wonderful holiday gifts and souvenirs. Christmas Dinner on December 24-25 will be served in the icicle-decorated Caviar Bar and Restaurant. Other family-friendly events include a New Year’s brunch on January 1st , with children-oriented entertainment, a Russian Fairytale Night (December 31st) and a special New Year Kids Party (January 4th) with food, sweets, games gifts and a surprise appearance of Ded Moroz.

December 2014 - January 2015

Features For more holiday and souvenir shopping, the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 presents their very own Christmas Market, which will be open every day from morning until late in the evening, from December 1st to January 7th. The hotel’s lobby will be transformed into a magical Nutcracker fairytale. After doing some shopping, enjoy a cup of tea before a crackling fire in the hotel’s festively decorated Tea Room. In addition, the hotel hosts Christmas concerts every evening in December, a great activity for all ages. In addition to the daily holiday cheer, the hotel also invites guests to partake in specially created holiday meals on New Year’s Eve, Catholic Christmas (December 24th and 25th), and Russian Christmas (January 7th).

On New Year’s Eve, the Taleon Imperial Hotel presents “Around the world in one night”, a special holiday event for guests of all ages. Host Mike Malyshev invites guests on a journey to different countries around the world, where you will be introduced to different cultures’ traditional dances and music. The evening will also include a separate program for children with games, performances, contests, gifts and a special kids menu. For adult guests, the hotel’s chef has also created a unique, exclusive New Year’s menu, inspired by cuisines from around the world.

26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

The Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic hotel is offering Christmas and New Year celebratory menus in their Canvas restaurant, beginning Christmas Eve (December 24th) and extending until January 8th. The hotel is also hosting their own New Year’s Eve dinner at Canvas, as well as a special one-night stay in one of the hotel’s Deluxe room. The onenight package includes the Festive New Year dinner and a buffet breakfast on New Year’s morning. Located smack on St. Isaac’s Square, directly facing the cathedral, sister hotels Astoria and Angleterre are a pleasure to visit at any time of the year. But, just to be more enticing, this holiday season, the hotels have prepared some special events for a magical New Year’s Eve. At the Astoria, guests are invited to a “Snow Kingdom” party where every guest will become a participant in their favourite winter fairytale. The program, which is hosted by the famous Lyudmila Shiryaeva and Sergey Slavin, also includes live acrobatic, music, dance and theatre performances. The evening’s menu is specially designed by the recent additions to the hotel’s team, acclaimed head chef Serge Feri from France and head pastry chef Yulia Ivanova. At the Angleterre, the New Year’s Eve festivities take the form of a show called “Italian Passion” in the hotel’s restaurant Borsalino. Hosted by “Comedy Club” resident Gregory Soloviev, the evening also features live acrobatic, music and theatre acts as well, and a menu filled with Italian delicacies. Music and dancing will continue until the wee hours. New Year’s morning, restaurant Borsalino is also offering a festive holiday brunch with fresh, re-invigorating cocktails and live music. If you’re looking for something a little less traditional this New Year’s Eve, come get your dance on at the Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin hotel 80s night New Year bash. Other than a live DJ playing 80s hits all night long, the party also offers a huge, buffetstyle spread of classic Russian New Year’s dishes and desserts. The event also includes an open bar where any drink of your choice - champagne, wine, vodka, and even local beer brewed in the hotel’s brewery - will flow like water.

Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

For contact information on hotels check pages 54-56

Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW

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Russian CUISINE 1913 Nestled on a street corner between St. Isaac’s and Theatre Squares, Restaurant 1913 is the perfect spot to stop in on a wintry evening to enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee. Live musicians playing soothing Russian ballads offer you a moment to warm up and bask in the elegant, but comforting and intimate space. The extensive menu, available in both Russian and English, boasts every classic Russian dish imaginable, plus more unusual offerings for adventurous diners. The restaurant, which just celebrated its 20th anniversary this fall, is festively decorated and features Art Deco-inspired stained-glass windows and glass detail. QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 13/2, MSpasskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 48, www.restaurant-1913.spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW

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December 2014 - January 2015

Where to eat Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. However many people come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial English-speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu. To top it off during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the music featuring a charming, personality-packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment. QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW

Next to Mariinsky theatre

Where to eat Olivie Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance, Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes prepared with the chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut sauce with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - are just a few examples of what the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every type of company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired establishment is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW

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St. Petersburg, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru

reservations: +7 (812) 572 54 48 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Next to Mariinsky theatre

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Asian and Indian Chopsticks Chopsticks is a fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior has been decorated in traditional Chinese style, featuring traditional paintings on the walls. Quiet background music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. Its central location makes this one of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg. Be prepared to take your time over the meal and expect to use chopsticks!QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 23:00. €€. PTSW Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry House is a perfect addition to the city’s food scene serving food from all parts of off India. The menu is extensive and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off course buttered naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group. QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW Tandoori Nights For Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clayoven Tandoori-specialities, which gives the meat a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. You can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There’re plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW

Ya vegetarianets – I am a vegetarian Bez myasa – without meat December 2014 - January 2015

Where to eat

Where to eat of beer in a different glass! Belgian meals, which combine the simplicity of a traditional burger with the delicacy of French cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in Brussels and Antwerp. QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Beer Restaurants Craft Bier Cafe Calling all beer-lovers! 40 different kinds of beer on tap can be found at Craft, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s special Russian brews. Owner Sergey takes special pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PTAEGW Dickens This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and really authentically British. Dickens offers a pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub as you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAGSW Gastronomic Pub Brugge This Gastronomic pub is the place for people who like an authentic atmosphere and, naturally, original cuisine! The founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

KwakInn Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the long-gone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says settle in, we’re all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub (the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW Manneken Pis Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different, Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range of Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer and the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PTAGSW The Corner Pub This is an English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded by the people who brought you Dickens. The menu remains unchanged but beer selection has been improved dramatically - more than 30 kinds of beer, including ever popular craft beers. It is a particularly pleasant place to sit back and relax in a comfortable armchair by the fire with an English ale. QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 318 17 24, www.dickenspubs.com. Open 16:00 - 04:00. €€. PAESW

Caucasian Baklazhan The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW Pryanosti i radosti Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say too popular. The tables are spaced close to each other and a quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but somehow it all works. You feel like you are in a busy, fun and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW

8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72

European Gypsy tapas bar Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish, the welcome is exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas, the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PAESW

Trappist Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself for offering good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl a bottle, Trappist is definitely a beer destination, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea.QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW

Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta, giving guests a beautiful view of the Finnish Gulf that is particularly attractive as the sun sets. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW

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December 2014 - January 2015

Where to eat

Mon Petit Café While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés in town, the cafe’s understated colors, comfortable chairs and impressionist artwork on the walls help give off a mildly Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is refreshingly brief. Menu highlights include excellent patés as starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème brûlée for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just focus on quality ingredients and as a result deliver tasty and satisfying meals.QF-3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW Mozhno Prepare to be transported to a new kind of dining experience. The menu is designed according to the diet principles of French nutritionist Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting customers can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not be disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well as beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole grain purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged and amply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul. Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 26 16, www. mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Soup Wine Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads, but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls piled with green leaves. Given the restaurant’s size and how easy it is to sit and linger, listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book a table in advance. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat Fine dining

International

L’Europe Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Read more on pages 34-35.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW

Biblioteka This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here. The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. A bookshop is also located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW

Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times, which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing region of the world. Booking in advance is recommended. QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW The Flying Dutchman At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy berth you would expect, where the sharp modern interior doesn’t completely detract from the vessel’s heritage. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly doesn’t disappoint and the wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEGSW

Bolshaya Kukhnya A huge panorama restaurant just a stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more. The little ones have their very own menu in their very own restaurant.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW

MarketPlace in Galeria For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace, a new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Galleria shopping mall. The restaurant features an open kitchen, where you can watch cooks prepare dishes from all over the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired by their travels all over the globe, have attempted to recreate the bustling, aromatic atmosphere of a market, where food is quickly made and reasonably priced, with the comforts and quality of a high-end restaurant. The food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurant’s interior is constructed only from eco-friendly materials, including wood, ceramic and brick detail. The space is designed for guests to sit comfortably, sipping a glass of wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the MarketPlace magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.marketplace.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

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December 2014 - January 2015

Wine Cellar 1853 Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located inside the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the world of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue. This cellar accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50 bottles of champagne. You can choose between four different fondues from the menu, among other offerings. Next to the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and a chocolate fondue (as an entrée, main and dessert perhaps) or you can go for the champagne and perigord truffle and cheese fondue. QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com. Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features

THE GRAND HOTEL EUROPE This January, the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, an historic icon of excellence and luxury in the heart of St. Petersburg, celebrates its 140th anniversary. The hotel has lived and flourished from the end of the Russian Imperial era, through the entire Soviet era and into the 21st century. From its opening day, and throughout this entire span, the hotel has been known for its luxurious accommodations, impeccable service and welcoming, friendly atmosphere, as well as its ability to adapt to the demands of history. In the face of inevitable change, the Grand Hotel Europe has retained its high level of service and continued to update and rejuvenate itself to keep up with and even go well beyond the expectations of its contemporary guests. The Grand Hotel Europe was constructed on prime real estate, right on the corner of Nevsky prospekt and Mikhailovskaya ulitsa. Mikhailovskaya provides an open vista all the way from Nevsky to Arts Square and beyond, to the magnificent classical pillars of the Mikhailovsky Palace, which today houses the Russian Museum. When Peter the Great first began to build his new capital, many parts of what is today the city centre where nothing more than swamp land and stagnant rivers. By the first decade of the 19th century, however, the land had been unrecognizably transformed. One of the most important architects working in St. Petersburg at that time was the Italian Carlo Rossi. He designed the entire area around the Grand

34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Features

Hotel – Mikhailovsky Palace, Arts Square, and the beautiful boulevard, Mikhailovskaya ulitsa, leading from the Square to Nevsky. At the same time, he organized the construction of a unified façade for the buildings lining Mikhailovskaya, what would later become the façade of the Grand Europe. In the 1820s-30s, the building behind Rossi’s façade and its neighboring building around the corner were occupied by two separate hoteliers, Hugo Klee and Jean Coulon. In the 1830s, Klee’s son, Wilhelm, took over the business from his father, combined his hotel with Coulon’s and created a unified establishment, the Hotel Rossiya. The combined hotel set new standards for service and its restaurant became a gathering place for writers, intellectuals and artists. Klee ran the Hotel Rossiya for almost 30 years, gaining a reputation for high-end hospitality in the heart of the city. In 1872, a group of wealthy businessmen formed a joint-stock company called Evropeiskaya Gostinnitsa (Hotel Europe) and made Klee an offer for his hotel that he couldn’t refuse. In order to get the entire property along Mikhailovskaya, the company also had to buy out the shop owners who occupied the ground floors of the buildings, and charged hefty prices to vacate their prime locations. But the Hotel Europe company had a vision. They wanted to open a new, worldclass hotel that would be unrivalled in Russia’s capital. In 1873, they hired architect L.F. Fontana and got to work on renovations and refurbishments. On January 25, 1875, a press release was printed in the newspaper Stock Exchange announcing the opening of the new Hotel d’Europe. The announcement included a list of almost unprecedented services that the new establishment had to offer: two hundred and sixty exclusively decorated rooms, restaurant, butcher shop, bakers, pastry shop, tailor laundry, shoe repair, barber, fish smoking, wine cellars, 1-4 horse carriages for rent, laundry, ice and lemonade production, interpreters with all the world’s languages… All of the above, plus the latest technological advancements, such as a lift, air bells to ring for service, and telegraph. The new hotel, which was also referred to by many simply as the “Evropeiskaya”, was poised to set new standards of hospitality and excellence. And indeed it did. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

In 1905, the hotel opened their restaurant L’Europe, which today is the oldest continually serving restaurant in the city. An incredible stained-glass mural of Apollo crowns the main dining space. Between 1907 and 1914, the hotel also received an Art Nouveau makeover from architect Fyodor Lidval, who would later design the hotel Astoria. The décor in the L’Europe and in many other parts of the hotel today remain testaments to Lidval’s work. During the World Wars, the hotel’s hundreds of rooms were transformed for uses other than accommodating foreign guests, as the horror of war and starvation descended on the city. After the ravages of World War One and the Civil War following the Bolshevik revolution, the hotel was used as an orphanage for the many children left without parents. In 1929, responding to the inevitable presence of visiting foreigners in the Soviet Union, Soviet authorities created the State Joint-Stock Company for Foreign Tourists, better known as Intourist. During the interwar years, Intourist orchestrated the visits of highly respected foreign guests to the new Communist State, such as H.G. Wells and George Bernard Shaw. Poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and writer Maxim Gorky both frequented the hotel and its restaurants, and both often used their hotel suites as reception areas for the many eager young writers and well-wishers who would line up to visit with them. The hotel was again appropriated for another use during World War Two and the horrific 900-day siege of Leningrad. This time the hotel became a much-needed hospital, and its many rooms were filled with wounded and sick patients. When Hospital No. 991, as the hotel was temporarily re-named, closed in April 1942, its staff attempted to repair and restore the oncemagnificent building, part of which had been bombed and much of which was filled with debris and fallen plaster. In the postwar years, the city began to recover from the devastation of the siege and the war. Restoration of the Evropeiskaya began in earnest in 1949. When the hotel re-opened for business, it continued to attract respected visitors from both the Soviet Union and abroad for the next two decades. But by the 1980s, the dilapidated façade, which hadn’t been renovated since just after the war, the hotel’s amenities and even the level of service were unde-

niably outdated. On January 5, 1989, the Evropeiskaya Hotel was officially closed for renovations. Intourist collaborated with Swedish companies SIAB and RESO to entirely revamp the hotel and raise it to contemporary international standards. And the companies did not take this task lightly. They brought in a floating training hotel, consisting of 276 rooms, and anchored it next to Leningrad’s international passenger terminal. There the future staff of the Grand Hotel Europe, which, as a rule, included no one from the former Soviet-era staff, were whipped into shape before the new hotel’s opening.

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The beautifully and technologically updated hotel, and the first Five-Star hotel in Russia, officially re-opened on December 21, 1991. Again the guest list began to fill with the names of the rich and famous, including former president Bill Clinton and the man of the hour, Mikhail Gorbachev. Through the 90s, the hotel was run by the Kempinski group, who saw it through economic collapse and other hardships of the late 90s and early 2000s. This January, the Grand Hotel Europe celebrates its 140th anniversary in the capable hands of Belmond Ltd. This October, the hotel announced the opening of six new suites, which include the largest presidential suite in St. Petersburg and five Avant-Garde Suites, designed in homage to Russian artists of the early 20th century. The hotel offers its guests the absolute highest quality of services and amenities, on the cutting-edge of the hospitality industry, while still retaining the elegance and charm of its Imperial origins.

Where to eat PMI Bar PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic building on the Moika. The bar, located on the first floor, features hand-crafted cocktails, created by the city’s best bartenders. In the restaurant and enoteca on the second and third floors, Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky has created a small specialty menu and wine list that boasts the best selections of European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar invites popular DJs to perform and also often hosts tours of the most notable chefs from around the world. But don’t let that intimidate you. At PMI, a friendly and relaxing atmosphere is king.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 10, www.pmibar.com. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW The Maze Before setting off on your own quest for this dining spot, be sure to note, the restaurant is aptly named: tucked in a quiet corner of the city centre, it is nestled in the Paradny Kvartal residential complex. The location makes the walk from the metro potentially labyrinthine, but thoroughly and wonderfully Petersburgian. If you’re looking to add a little quiet to your Petersburg dining experience, the Café-Bar’s casual café-style dining provides just the right balance of isolation and activity. The pan-European (but with emphasis on Italy) menu offers a wide selection for the whole family to enjoy.QF-2, Paradnaya ul. 3, bldg. 2A, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 13 03, www.themazecafebar.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PASW

Where to eat Ribai A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: given the nature of the cuisine, it offers tremendous beef selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt for something other than steak, there’s another pleasant surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an American eatery the portions are mammoth and their delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai does.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAVESW Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger and spend cosy evenings with friends or family. It’s also a nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Italian Borsalino Borsalino’s Italian head chef has made this restaurant a destination for tourists and residents alike for years. Their menu is simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavour from all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service and a regularly changing seasonal menu would be more than enough to satisfy even without the amazing views of St. Isaac’s Square.QD-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULEGSW Caffe Italia The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves, already puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gorgeously presented desserts are worth the effort and the wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won’t break the bank.QF-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www. caffe-italia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW

True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994

20 years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru

Gusto A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce.QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www. gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW ITALY Bottega This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very cosy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is common in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian homemade pasta, delicious pizza and several kinds of risotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section on the menu - antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as a takeaway.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group. ru. Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW

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Where to eat

Nightlife Makaronniki Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their famous terrace. Enjoy unusual views of the Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in the background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Marcelli’s Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make the atmosphere unpretentious. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. With an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW Palermo Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW Testo Pizza and pasta are what they do best here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, change the menu daily and serve up pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it a perfect spot for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

Shchyot budte dobry – Check please! 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.

Bars and Pubs Birzha Bar Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally intended to be St. Petersburg’s centre. Todat the island is one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar holds wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.QC2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW Chroniki Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Soviet-era watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you a great view of the classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. The numerous types of vodka include Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW Cuba Libre Upon entering this bar, it’s immediately obvious that the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble of spirits behind the bar includes many delicious varieties of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic burgers and platters to share will go down a treat, but it’s really at night when the place comes alive. The heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long you might not let yourself leave until you’ve sampled a good few.QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 55 26, www. barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAESW Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and accompanied by a delicious range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Helsinki Bar This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you are Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Library Bar The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might be more of a place to catch some football on the many screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Terminal Bar Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW December 2014 - January 2015

Nightlife Clubs Avrora Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW Dom Byta The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www. dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 07:00. PTAESW

Nightlife Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Purga There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga-I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW Radiobaby With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Cocktail bars Bar 812 Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW Daiquiri Bar Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW Graf-in The English meaning of grafin is “carafe”, which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW Tsvetochki A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer) 40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Zing Bar Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it’s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations.QD-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 39 44. Open 17:00 02:00. PAGW

nightlife - keeping safe

A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks. Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/ guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you.

“Blue Route” Pub Crawl The Dickens cordially invites you on a pub crawl: an adventurous, not particularly strenuous activity for those faithful who cherish the English tradition of spending an enjoyable evening wandering from one pleasant hostelry to the next in the company of friends both old and new. Come with us on a special trip through the city centre, punctuated by your favourite wateringholes (you’ll spot them by their colour: our pub signs, staff uniforms, even our upholstery is all in the same dark blue Dickens hue). Collect two stamps on our special Blue Route flyer, and claim your free pint of proper English ale in the third pub you visit. (Stamps valid for one day only). Read more at www.dickenspubs.com December 2014 - January 2015

Nightlife

42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Nightlife

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What to see

What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection, with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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modern art centres

If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works. Anna Nova Art Gallery QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. S.P.A.S Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. ROSPHOTO QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.

CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com. December 2014 - January 2015

What to see

Churches

Museums

Historical Outskirts

St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give wonderful glimpses into Russia’s past. Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.

St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone! Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupovpalace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.

Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better weekend escape than spending some time at one of the many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow!

Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl. 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Lyrical City With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them. F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone. Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Oranienbaum Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely place for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within.QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. Check opening times online. Pavlovsk Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history.QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Check opening times online.

Peterhof Palace and Park Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions and it is worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace. From there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and lots of other impressive stuff.QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Check opening times online. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Getting there Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station. Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf and Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. Pushkin Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks. QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Check opening times online.

December 2014 - January 2015

Hermitage

The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not number two”. With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress.

250 years This year the world-acclaimed museum celebrated its 250th anniversary. The museum’s central building, the so-called Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrelli’s magnificent baroque-style design was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight years later, at the end of Elizabeth’s reign. In the fall of 1763, Empress Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new mistress of the palace and commissioned new architects and designers to transform the palace to suit her preference for neoclassical style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become the incredible museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, the Empress commissioned the construction of the Large and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only that, but she also personally purchased the art collections that form the basis of the Hermitage’s collection today. The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museum’s official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an agent of Prussia’s King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick II’s commission. However, when the King was unable to finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.

250 years after Catherine’s provident purchase, which includes over 250 works by Flemish and Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its collection into one of the largest in the world. 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hermitage A treasure trove

Icons at the Hermitage

Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum houses so many works, that it is impossible to see everything in one visit. In fact, it’s said that if you were to spend just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see them all! That being said, it’s best to enter armed with a museum map that will help you strategize and design your personal excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can take a break and re-energize. The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum, just after the ticket offices).

Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiquity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box. The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai and Siberia. The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depictions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian Herodotus. The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popular folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman Empire. While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the Diamond room works are also an impressive display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls, which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond, emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal. The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry, including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver scabbards and decorated with precious stones. A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish craftsmen in the late 16th century. The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century.

The museum’s collection of ancient Russian icons allows viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmosphere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from various schools of iconography, each of which displays its own unique characteristics. The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is on display in the 14th century icon collection “Saint Nikolai”. The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, “The Last Judgment” and “The Life of Nikolai”. It also features two double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the high quality of their preservation. Among the icons from Pskov, the icon “The Epiphany” (early 14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the salient features that make the Pskov school unique are easily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images of the “Savior” and “Our Lady” icons (early 14th c.). The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a substantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of various types of iconography are on display, including examples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies. Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded icons “The Transfiguration” and “The Birth of Christ”, both created in 16th century. The collection also includes icons from the “Northern Letters“, which were created in the northern territories. These icons were painted by an array of authors, including members of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collection are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th centuries.

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December 2014 - January 2015

The museum today

QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket offices inside the museum and via special terminals at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

Pskov

Pskov What to see Pskov city walls The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which give a clear image of just how strong this city once was. It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed with caution when walking directly beside a wall when hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!

One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least well known cities: welcome to Pskov! Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border, Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres. The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year 903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church. In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial value, Pskov was also one of the countries’ most important fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone walls, unique in contemporary Europe. Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky (c. 1120 – 1263). More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to this historical moment can still be found there today. Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s extraordinary history. Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region. 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to explore.

Where to stay No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation, whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list of the best hotels currently available in Pskov. Hotel Rizhskaya QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya. ru. 265 rooms. Old Estate Hotel & Spa QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45, www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms. Oktyabrskaya Hotel QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms. Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms. Hotel 903 QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www. pskov903.ru. 15 rooms. Hotel Golden Embankment QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78 77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pskov State Museum The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings, now united under one name. The central building of the museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and its region. Directly attached to the main building are the famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman who once resided here. In these chambers you will find various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection. Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www. museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Monuments The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts. Some of the most interesting monuments can be found near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most famous poet. Another monument of significance is the monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill (Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story! Parks Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk, or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park (Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city, and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any troubles. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Getting There Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburg’s Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stopping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40. You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal (metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05. Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia, so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St. Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be approximately 1 hour. Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When traveling with one of these companies, be sure to reserve your tickets beforehand. Autograf minibus Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30, 20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets 550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru. Avtovizit minibus Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets 500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40, www.avtovizit.com. Avtofavorit bus Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at 17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Moskovskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl). www.napiter.ru.

Getting around Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so you should not have any trouble finding your way around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive, and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station can be found at the same place in the south-eastern part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32, www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00. December 2014 - January 2015

Pskov Churches It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than 40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those interested in old Russian architecture and religion. Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves you having to ask at every church you enter.

Trinity Cathedral Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or wooden spiked maces. To each his own! Mirozhsky Monastery As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll through its garden is already a good enough reason to do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy a moment of rest, and the site has been included on the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks. QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www. mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free. 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Pskov

outside PSKOV

Where to eat

Old Izborsk When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides (either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants and cafes in Pskov especially for you!

Pechory This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at any point during its existence. The monastery currently consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pushkin Hills Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe 19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia. Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works. Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to find a guide who can help you get there and show you the way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful the hills are, you do not want to get lost. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pozharka Tavern The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous, allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire, but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal. QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €. Dvor Podznoeva Halls The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant, waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€. Double Coffee With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one. From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel. (+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 – 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Nightlife Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a city with many students, who need to unwind after a long week of studying hard. What better way to do that than to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs, each with its own face and style. If you like to show your moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places where you can boogey down all night long. When local Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places where you can party as much as you like. TIR Club Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that truly has its own identity. The underground style of the bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music events, which are held near the stage in the back of the club. During events you will have to pay admission to enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54, www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 16:00 until last guest. €. Super Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www. superpskov.ru. December 2014 - January 2015

Where to stay

Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg QĐĄ-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms. Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms. Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 214 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms. Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms . Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.

3 Stars AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.

YOUR REFRESHING STAY IN ST.PETERSBURG Perfect hotel for Business & Leisure Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel 33 Kanonerskaya street 190121 St. Petersburg, Russia P: +7 812 610 50 00, F: +7 812 610 50 01

Book online on our website www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.com

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December 2014 - January 2015

Where to stay Ask the Concierge

Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Irada Agalarova and I have been Chief Concierge at the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 for almost exactly a year now. I actually graduated with a degree in chemical engineering, but ever since I was a little girl I have had a passion for St. Petersburg’s luxurious hotels, so ten years ago I decided to follow my dreams and got a summer job in a hotel restaurant. I fell in love with hospitality on the spot, and I haven’t looked back since. The Kempinski is my third and my favourite hotel but I will always remember my first one. Can you tell us something about the Kempinski? What makes it special, and what do you like best about your work here? The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 was founded eight years ago in the very heart of St. Petersburg, right on the Moika and opposite the renowned

Shopping Hermitage Museum and Palace Square, with the first rooftop restaurant with gorgeous views of the historical city. But the best thing about my hotel is the people who do their work with such passion and attention to detail the details that make all the difference. From December 1st to 7th January we will have our first ever Christmas market, so everyone will have the opportunity to buy wonderful, sweet gifts for Christmas and New Year. What can you tell us about your favourite places in St. Petersburg? St. Petersburg changes every year, many new restaurants open, new exhibitions welcome new guests, but the State Hermitage museum has to be my favourite place in the whole city. You can spend half the day there not even noticing the time pass, at least not until you look through the window and realise it’s getting dark! What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What would you say is a mustvisit here during wintertime? Winter in St. Petersburg has a unique atmosphere with decorations all over Nevsky Prospect, you get a real sense of upcoming Christmas and New Year everywhere. But winter in St. Petersburg is simply not winter if you don’t go to see The Nutcracker, and this year you can choose between the classical version of the ballet at the Mariinsky Theatre, and Nacho Duato’s contemporary version at the Mikhailovsky Theatre.

Gifts and Souvenirs Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A La Petite Opera Gallery QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. net. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian designer brands as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www. galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

DLT Department store

Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Built in 1909 the building's façade mixes modernist and art nouveau influences, popular at the turn of century. Inside, however, the influences are much more cutting-edge. Five floors of designer shopping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who need to take a break and for the discerning VIP shopper personal stylist services are also available. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW December 2014 - January 2015

Shopping

Expat & Lifestyle Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily. internations Qwww.internations.org.

Winter Souvenirs For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country, whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following: Platok A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a coat.

58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Cultural Centres Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops all over the city. Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pickled Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Religious Services

HEALTH AND beauty Royal Thai Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience. Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assortiment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aroma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit. After one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. A

Catholic Church of St. Catherine QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.

THANN Sanctuary Spa Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over 25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces a range of unique skincare products using natural ingredients, formulated from botanicals derived combining the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological science. The core ingredient in THANN’s wide range of products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010, encapsulates the company’s holistic approach, helping you to re-discover your inner physical and mental wellness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A highlight among the wide range of treatments is the THANN Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage, using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www. thann-spa.ru. A

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December 2014 - January 2015

Metro map

Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience Pia Viitkikko originally hails from Helsinki, and throughout her varied career has worked in such fields as construction, real estate, fashion and modelling. In December 2010 she added the spa and wellness industry to her cv by launching the THANN brand in Russia. THANN’s flagship spa and retail store is located in St. Petersburg’s Nevsky Centre. What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can you compare it with other big cities you’ve been to/ worked in? I have been traveling between Helsinki and St. Petersburg since 1995 and have had the opportunity to follow closely how this city has changed and developed over the last two decades. I really can’t compare St. Petersburg to anywhere else, it is in a league of its own. There is something for everyone here: museums, churches, art galleries, restaurants, parks – you name it! There are simply endless possibilities to spend your free time, to get to know the city and to study its history. For us Finns, St. Petersburg is our nextdoor neighbour: a metropolis with almost as many inhabitants as the whole of Finland right on our doorstep. For example, the Allegro train, which is a Finnish-Russian joint project, whisks you from the centre of Helsinki to the centre of St. Petersburg just in 3,5 hours. Why THANN, and why St. Petersburg? In St. Petersburg, both visitors and locals appreciate the finer things in life! THANN is a world-renowned spa based on the holistic concept of lifestyle and aromatherapy, and was recently voted one of the top 55 spas in the world by Condé Nast. We operate in 25 countries across Europe, Asia and the USA, offering natural hair and skincare products formulated from botanicals that the art of natural therapy with modern science. What are your plans for the future? My future plans are focused principally on my business. Our target is to have a THANN spa and retails store in all Russian cities with over a million inhabitants, with a distribution network through existing chains of cosmetic product shops, together with partners and franchisees, and also to develop our new project - hotel amenities. How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg? What are your favourite spots in the city to visit at the weekend? My family lives in Finland, so I spent most of my weekends there, but when I stay here I love to go to the ballet and to listen to live music, especially jazz. I also enjoy going out to eat with friends, exploring the wide range of different restaurants that St. Petersburg has to offer. And when it comes to my health and wellbeing, of course I pamper myself with a relaxing THANN treatment! 60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: No pain, no gain If a Russian tells you: “Bez truda ne vytashchish i rybku iz pruda”, you could be forgiven for not understanding the expression whatsoever. The literal translation for this phrase is ‘Without effort, you cannot even pull a fish out of a pond’, and it was coined by fishermen who used the expression to explain their large catch to passers-by. It is difficult to find concrete meaning behind these words, but the phrase indicates that nothing can be achieved without a lot of effort and attention to detail. When translated idiomatically, the phrase simply means ‘no sweet without sweat’.

Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language schools. They have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group. The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.

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December 2014 - January 2015

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Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral and the cemetery are both worth a visit.

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Street register

Moscow

1-28-ya liniya

B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.

C-3

Rubinshteina ul.

E-3

Admiralteisky pr.

D-3

E-2

Ryleeva ul.

E-2

Kovensky per.

Alexandra Nevskogo most

F-3

Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.

F-2

Sadovaya ul.

E-2,3

Angliskaya nab.

C-3

Kronverkskaya nab.

D-2

Sampsonievsky most

D-1 E-2

Anichkov most

E-3

Kronversky pr.

D-1

Sapyorny per.

Arsenalnaya nab.

E-2

Kutuzova nab.

D-2/E-2

Shpalernaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Bakunina pr.

F-3

Lermontovsky pr.

C-3/C-4

Shvedsky per.

D-2

Baskov per.

E-2

Letny sad

D-2

Sinopskaya nab.

F-3

Belinskogo ul.

E-2

Leitenanta Shmidta nab.

C-3

Smolnaya nab.

F-2

Birzhevaya liniya

C-2

Ligovsky pr.

E-3/E-4

Solyanoy per.

E-2

Blagoveshchensky most

C-2

Liteiny most

E-2

Sotsialisticheskaya ul.

E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

E-2

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

D-3

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

С-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. – Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. – Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. – Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. – Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. – Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. – Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. – Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. – Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. – Malaya

64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

December 2014 - January 2015

Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

NEW YEAR'S EVE PARTY 2015 AT HOTEL ASTORIA

hotels Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Lotte Hotel Moscow QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500 Room prices start ). Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Ivan Hostel QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

"SNOW KINGDOM" For advance bookings, please contact Elizaveta Smirnova at: +7 812 494 57 57 | www.roccofortehotels.com

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