St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Feb/Mar'15

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg February - March 2015

Celebrate in style Pancakes, posies and pampering More than 11 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com N°99

Beyond the Hermitage Piter’s lesser known museums

Contents Nightlife

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

35

Bars and clubs – how to stay out till 6 a.m.

Foreword

4

In the News

5

Arrival & Getting Around

6

City Basics

8

Language

9

Culture & Events 10 Concerts and festivals 10 Exhibitions 14

Features

What to see

38 38 39 40 41 42

The essentials Modern art centres Saints of St. Petersburg Egypt on the Neva Historical outskirts

Where to stay 53 Interview with concierge

54

Shopping

55 56

Russian souvenirs

Expat & Lifestyle 57

The expat experience Celebrating Russia’s winter 18 Russian women 21 Maps & Index Hermitage 250 years 44 City map Hidden museums 46 Street index Pskov 49 Metro map

58 60 62 63

Where to eat

64

24 Moscow Vegetarian 28 Russian cuisine 34

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February - March 2015

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Foreword While spring in Russia doesn’t really begin until May, its spirit is already upon us. Just because the long New Year’s holidays are over, it doesn’t mean that the party has to stop.

Actually it’s just getting started. You should definitely try traditional Russian pancakes during the week of Maslenitsa (read more on page 20). This holiday has always been one of my favorites. Have you ever watched “The Barber Of Siberia”? Remember that part with the crazy Maslenitsa celebrations next to the Moscow Kremlin? This scene shows the true atmosphere of this holiday, or at least how it should be. So get in the mood and enjoy! Pancakes of all sorts and kinds can be found almost everywhere in the city: from cosy and welcoming cafés to luxurious and elegant restaurants. Sounds great doesn’t it?

Maslenitsa is not the only holiday you can enjoy in February.

There are more! You can of course have a romantic dinner on Valentine’s Day (see page 19) or celebrate International Bartender’s Day on February 6. Pick a bar from our Nightlife section (pages 35-37) and go drink a Margarita, a Mojito or better yet, ask the bartender what their specialty is. And don’t forget about International Women’s Day on March 8.

It’s one of the biggest national holidays in Russia and it can’t be ignored. To get in the mood, go to page 21. It’s all there.

Whatever you choose, St. Petersburg can never be called boring, what with its diversity of world-famous, as well as small and not so well-known museums. Yes, there’s more to St. Petersburg than the Hermitage or the Russian Museum!

With our readers in mind, we have created a special feature dedicated to the hidden places that are definitely worth visiting (see pages 46-48). Trust us, they’re something.

As you probably know, from 1732 to 1918 St. Petersburg was the political capital of Russia. Now it’s considered the cultural capital and the locals are absolutely happy with that designation. The huge number of festivals and concerts that the city has to offer is almost ridiculous (see pages 10-17).

You’ll find all this and even more in the guide you hold in your hands. We sincerely hope you enjoy your stay! Happy holidays!

Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg In Your E SPocket S E N TI A L founded and published C I by T YOOO G Krasnaya U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket.

Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Contributors Olivia Capozzalo, Nils Roskamp Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 99, 01.02.2015, 90.000 copies.

For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story The egg that came first. Unlike the blingtastic creations which followed, the Hen Egg crafted by Fabergé for Alexander III as an Easter gift to the Tsarina exudes an understated minimalism. And if you thought the old debate was settled, think again: open up the egg, and you’ll find a chicken inside…

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout February and March.

In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

In the News Memorial to Brodsky A memorial to poet Joseph Brodsky is being erected on the wall of the Muruzi house at 28 Liteiny Prospekt.

During the Soviet era, the handsome building housed communal apartments and it was here that Brodsky and his parents occupied “a room and a half” for almost 20 years, from 1955 until his forced emigration in 1972. The memorial construction is part of a larger project dedicated to celebrating the poet’s life and work, namely the opening of the Brodsky museum-apartment in the very same Muruzi house.

Both the memorial and the museum are set to be open to the public in May of this year, in commemoration of what would be the poet’s 75th birthday (b. May 24, 1940). The project is being led by Mikhail Milchik, one of Brodsky’s friends and the president of the Joseph Brodsky Museum Foundation.

Claustrophobia It might seem like a nightmare straight out of 1984, but struggling to find a way out of a locked room is fast becoming one of St. Petersburg’s hottest entertainment tickets.

The Claustrophobia Quest challenges guests to solve ingenious mental puzzles and work out how to escape from a variety of themed rooms. It’s a bit like an intellectual version of the classic TV show Fort Boyard, with groups of up to four players seeking a way out from haunted houses, nuclear bunkers or medieval dungeons, among many choices.

Although the settings are designed for the Russian market, the challenges are non-verbal, making them accessible to anyone. The key thing is being able to communicate with team-mates to unlock the door and escape before the time runs out. For more information see www.phobia.ru.

Russia’s first hospitality awards Russia’s much-maligned hospitality sector gets the chance to blow its own trumpet for a change with the first ever Russian Hospitality Awards in February 2015. The ceremony will announce the 20 best hotels in the country in various categories. Nomination forms are available on the Russian Hospitality Awards website, and an expert jury will investigate what each hotel has to offer as well as considering reviews from online booking systems. This annual award is intended to bring together leading figures in the hospitality industry, helping to promote excellence across the sector. The inaugural award ceremony is scheduled for February 19 in Moscow. For more information, check out www.hospitalityawards.ru.

Leviathan Winner of Best Screenplay at the 2014 Cannes Film Festival, Best Foreign Film at the Golden Globes, and current Oscar nominee, Andrey Zvyaginstev’s new film Leviathan has already gained enthusiastic world-wide attention and acclaim. Set to premier in Russia on February 5, most of the film was shot in a small town on the Kola Peninsula on the Barents Sea. The film, whose name at least in part references the terrifying sea monster in the book of Job, starkly tells a story of systematic corruption, violence and tragedy in a small town. Already considered an important portrayal of contemporary Russia, the film’s international popularity makes its premiere and reception in Russia even more worth paying attention to, not only for the sake of the film’s quality as a work of art, but for its impact as a social phenomenon. Regular screenings with English subtitles will take place at the Angleterre Hotel.

Restaurant Day 2015

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 90 000 экз. No99.

01.02.2015

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Four times a year, all over the world, there’s a really good reason to eat out: it’s called Restaurant Day. Restaurant Day is a relatively new and very exciting concept in the world of food and dining. For one day only, anyone can open a pop-up restaurant anywhere they want – at home, at work, in a park, on a street corner, in a courtyard, you name it. In St. Petersburg there’s a local addition to this global tradition. Several sites around the city, usually art spaces, galleries and shops are chosen each time to host amateurs and professionals, local chefs, foodies, or just food lovers for this one-day-only food fest. The event is the perfect opportunity to explore the city, visit places you’ve never seen, and enjoy some delicious food and drink while you’re at it. www.vk.com/restaurantdayspb.

February - March 2015

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Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city.

If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave.

The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.

Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.

The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi.

Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.

The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.

The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy.

In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly.

Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure!

Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes).

Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station.

If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination.

Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations.

There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi.

Read more online: www.inyourpocket.com/ russia/st-petersburg/arriving 6

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Arriving & Getting Around Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky.

There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need.

Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (28Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.

Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver.

St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 31Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting.

Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.

The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you.

When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. nyt.ru February - March 2015

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City Basics Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between 22:00 and 11:00.

Health and Safety Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Be on guard!

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.

02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and (+7) 812 303 05 55.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.

If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Climate

The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Winters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures sometimes getting as low as -20, so wrap up warm and don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer.

The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Money

Foreigner Prices

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The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

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Language useful phrases

pocket dictionary: Sosulka What is a sosulka? A sosulka is one of those long and beautiful and potentially lethal ice stalactites that hang from the roofs of buildings. As the temperature rises and falls the melting snow on rooftops (krysha) turn into different shaped sosulki. The threat to innocent passersby’s is such that the city needs to employ an army of special kommunalshchiki (local council workers) armed with trucks, pick axes and shovels to go up onto the city’s roofs to remove them. In fact the dangerous job of icicle removing has existed for centuries and has seen numerous casualties. Sometimes the sosulki can grow as long as two floors, which as you can imagine is an absolutely terrifying sight, so mind your head! The word comes from the verb sosat, meaning to suck, which is what adventurous kids like to do with them when their parents aren’t watching.

numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

adinatsat dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat

30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000

tritsat sorok pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English?

Help!

I need some help I don't want

Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?

Pomogitye!

Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno?

Do you have...?

U vas est…?

I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit?

It's expensive!

Eta dorogo!

Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts!

Bolno!

Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko?

What time is it? Katory chas?

Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky?

No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!

Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль

February - March 2015

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Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a day hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night you choose.

theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.

Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.

Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru.

Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.

concert halls and clubs Aurora concert hall QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.

Club A2 QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm.

Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.

Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.

Jazz Philharmonic Hall QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

JFC Jazz Club QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru.

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.

Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru.

Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru.

Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru.

Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.

Zal Ozhidaniya QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.

10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

February events 07.02 Saturday 20:00 Pilot The Russian musical collective was created in 1997 and within the first few months of their existence, the group released their first album, “War”. Their early years of playing earned them an avid fanbase, which has continued to grow and now includes fans of several generations and of all different walks of life. The band continues to tour and their music and music videos play regularly on national radio and television channels in Russia. On February 7th, help the band celebrate their 18th birthday in the company of their fans, old and new, and in the comfort of their home city.QE-1, Aurora Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.pilot.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl. 07.02 Saturday 20:00 Yann Tiersen Though well known for creating the incredibly whimsical, expressive soundtrack of the film Amelie, which brought him global recognition, Breton musician Yann Tiersen in reality is not primarily a composer, but a musician focused on recording and performing his music. His work incorporates many different sounds, notably the folksy, mournful sounds of the accordion, harpsichord and melodica. Since 1995 he has released eight studio albums, the most recent of which, “Infinity” (2014), he is currently promoting and performing on tour. His concert in St. Petersburg promises to be, like his music, filled with magic, mysticism and warmth.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 900 - 4,700Rbl. 14.02 Saturday 19:00 Agata Kristi Only one concert and only the best songs of their almost 30 year existence - this is what the legendary rock band is promising their devoted fans. The group announced their breakup in 2009 and played their last official concert in 2010. Despite the hiatus, the loyalty of the band’s fan base has never wavered: in 2014 Russian radio listeners voted to include five of the group’s compositions on the top 100 best Russian rock songs of all time. In the band’s own words, the February shows are not so much a reunion for the band as “a gift to its fans”.QLedovy Dvorets, pr.

Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 335 75 75, www.agata2015.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 15.02 Sunday 19:00 Astor Piazzolla’s Tango Passion In honor of Valentine’s day, a day for expressions of love and all things romantic, comes a show filled with heat, emotion and passion. Created by Argentine choreographer Silvio Grand and winners of the Campeonato Mundial de Baille de Tango and the Tango Dance World Championship in Buenos Aires, the performance features the music of legendary innovative Argentine tango composer, Astor Piazzola. Musical accompaniment will be provided by the world-famous St. Petersburg symphony orchestra IP Orchestra. The promise of the dynamism, elegance and power of true tango music and dance make this truly a show not to be missed.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl.

THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY

A SANCTUARY OF SERENITY AND SENSES

22.02 Sunday 19:00 Emir Kusturica and Goran Bregovic After a many-year break, two of the biggest names in Balkan music and culture are collaborating once again. Kusturica, Serbian filmmaker, actor and musician and Bregovic, a Bosnian-born musician, first collaborated in the late 1980s to mid-90s, when Bregovic composed the soundtracks for three of Kusturica’s films. As a celebratory concert surprise for Petersburg concertgoers, the pair will be joined on stage by world-fusion music ensemble Mostar Sevdah Reunion, who play traditional folk music from Bosnia and Herzegovina, fused with different contemporary music styles. The night promises to be filled with joyful reunions and Balkan beats.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl. 23.02 Monday 19:00 Dina Garipova As first place winner of the 2012 Russian Voice competition and Russian representative at the 2013 Eurovision in Malmo, Sweden, Dina Garipova has already become a beloved star of Russian pop. At her solo concert this February, her awardwinning voice will be accompanied by a symphony orchestra, conducted by Roman Leontiev. The concert will showcase not only her well-known hits, including “What if”, but also her debut album “Two Steps to Love”. In commemoration of the holiday and in honor of all “Defenders of the Fatherland”, Garipova will perform the famous patriotic march from 1912, “Proshchanie slavyanki”.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.dinagaripova.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA IN THE HEART OF THE CITY Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116 +7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27 www.thann-spa.ru

International Festival “Triumph of Jazz” 20.02 friday, 19:00 This year marks the 15th anniversary of the festival “Triumph of Jazz”, hosted by reknowned jazz saxophonist, Igor Butman. The festival will run for three days in St. Petersburg and Moscow and kicks of in St. Petersburg with three exciting headliners from the States: legendary jazz collective the Yellowjackets, who’ve been playing together for more than 30 years, trumpet player and five-time Grammy winner Terence Blanchard and his band E-collective, and a project by the jazz vocalist Lisa Henry, accompanied by the great Oleg Butman Trio.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921 369 72 78, www.jazztriumph.ru.

Tickets 650 - 3,500Rbl.

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Culture & Events March events

28.02 Saturday 19:00 De Phazz Berlin-based sound collective De Phazz combines an electronic, synthesizer-heavy sound with lounge, jazz, latin beats and breakbeat rhythyms of trip hop. The group’s founder is German producer Pit Baumgartner, who has brought together different musicians to make each of the band’s albums. One of the regulars, however, is Pat Appleton, who provides the collective’s lyrics and sultry lead vocals. The collective will play in St. Petersburg on the very last day of winter. Their show, which includes new interpretations of their most well-known compositions, in Appleton’s own words promises to “rekindle the flame of love in the hearts of viewers”.QD-2, Music Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.dephazz.com. Tickets 400 - 5,000Rbl.

Robbie Williams 09.04 Thursday, 20:00 Robbie Williams is making his first ever visit to the northern capital.

The British pop star first began his musical career in 1990 as the youngest member of the boy band Take That. He left the band in 1995 and launched his solo career soon after, which transformed him into the living pop legend he is today. He is currently the best selling British solo artist in the UK and the most successful British solo performer in the history of world pop. His current tour, “Let Me Entertain You”, is named after the legendary song of his career, first released in 1997.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.robbiewilliams. com. Tickets 3,000 - 20,000Rbl.

You can buy tickets for many events at www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

03.03 Tuesday 19:00 Glenn Miller’s Sun Valley Serenade Based on the classic 1941 film of the same name, director-producer Igor Illarionov has created a lively musical show filled with adventure, comedy and romance. As in the original film, the music of Glenn Miller plays a major role in the story. But this time, in lieu of the man himself and his legendary Orchestra on screen, audiences are given a chance to experience the vibrancy and swing of his music live on stage. The show features the St. Petersburg Brass Orchestra, as well as winners of the International “New Wave” competition and leading members of the St. Petersburg Theatre of Musical Comedy.

QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921 369 72 78, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl. 06.03 Friday 20:00 Julio Iglesias The best selling Latin music artist in history, Spanish singer songwriter Julio Iglesias is truly a legend.

In his over 45-year musical career, Iglesias has released 80 albums and sold more than 300 million records worldwide. At his concerts, Iglesias’ heartfelt lyrics and powerful voice create a welcoming, romantic atmosphere; he seems to be singing at the same time for everyone present and for each listener individually. The singer himself describes his music as an overflowing and outpouring of inner passion that he feels compelled to share with the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.julioiglesias.com. Tickets 4,000 - 12,000Rbl. 09.03 Monday, 22.03 sunday 19:00 Temptation Dance Show On 9 and 22 March the Music Hall will be packed out for the performance of “In The Rain Show” from spectacular dance group “Temptation”. Ignoring any boundaries of style, the troupe’s members range from all sorts of classical and contemporary dance backgrounds, coming together to perform awe inspiring shows selling out St. Petersburg’s theatres. The show is particularly passionate and unpredictable due to a constantly revolving roster of dancers and choreographers, and the fact that the whole thing takes place under actual pouring rain on stage.For women only, men are not allowed! And we are not kidding.QD-2, Music Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 994 00 60, www.iskushenie.su. Tickets 600 - 1,500Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 10.03 Tuesday 19:00 Crowbar Hailing from the great New Orleans, Louisiana, Crowbar is a well-known pioneer of the sludge metal genre, which originated primarily in the Crescent City in the mid-1980s. The genre itself is a combination of doom metal, hardcore punk and elements of Southern Rock. Crowbar has been playing under its current name since 1991, though guitarist and vocalist Kirk Windstein has been playing with some form of the band since 1988. The band released their latest album, “Symmetry in Black”, in 2014.

This March, they bring their slow, brooding, vicious sound to Russia for the first time.QD-2, Mod Club, nab. kan. Griboedova 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www. facebook.com/crowbarmusic. Tickets from 1,000Rbl.

18.03 Wednesday 19:00 Thirty Seconds to Mars 30 Seconds to Mars is a tight-knit group; the band consists of the two brothers Jared and Shannon Leto, who cofounded the band in 1998, and lead guitarist since 2003, Tomo Milicevic. It’s been noted that each of the band’s four studio albums are unique, distinct creations, in terms of sound, approach and style. Generally known as an alternative rock band, these musicians are true masters of experimentation. Not only do they produce progressive sounds, but they’re also committed to global environmental and humanitarian activism. But perhaps what makes them stand out the most is their honest devotion to their fans.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.thirtysecondstomars.com. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl.

11.03 Wednesday 20:00 Tango Pasion This incredibly ambitious project was the brainchild of a small team in 1982, including choreographer Hector Zaraspe and producer Mel Howard, and has since become a celebrated Broadway show, traveled the world and introduced the fine art of tango to many countries. More than a dance or musical show, this project is something of a spectacle, combining every style of Argentine tango, from the most traditional to the far less known. The music will be performed by the Latin Grammy winning ensemble, the Sexteto Mayor Orchestra.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.tangopasion.com. Tickets 1,000 3,000Rbl. 14.03 Saturday 20:00 Chizh and Co Whether it was with friends at the dacha or during the long months of army service, many Russians have memories of singing and listening to the songs of Russian rock band Chizh and Co. The band’s lyrical songs are beloved all over the country and appreciated for their folk music qualities. Playing since the early 90s, the group’s leader, Sergei Chigrakov, or “Chizh”, is known for his musical talent and flexibility. The band plays rock, blues and folk rock and in 2004, Chizh himself even collaborated and performed with American blues musicians in Boston and New York.

QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTechnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. chizh.net. Tickets 1,300 - 4,500Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

20.03 Friday 20:00 Stereoleto Club: Metronomy British electropop band Metronomy began some time in the late 1990s (officially in 1999) when front man Joseph Mount was a teenager experimenting with an old computer. Mount released his debut album in 2005. The band gained and changed membership changed over the years and in 2011 they released the much-celebrated album “The English Riviera”. This past March, the band released another album, “Love Letters”, which continues their tradition of making music that is laconic and witty, funny yet poignant. This spring, they will perform as part of the Stereoleto Club, a special offshoot session of the much loved summer festival.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.metronomy. co.uk. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.

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Culture & Events 28.03 Saturday 20:00 Kosheen The name “Kosheen” comes from the two Japanese words ko or “old” and shin or “new”. This experimental Bristol-based trio first entered the industry in the late 90s. The group released their first album “Resist” in 2001 and have been actively producing and releasing albums ever since. Their unique sound combines the electronic beats of trip hop and drum-n-bass, created by the drum-n-bass producers and Djs Markee Substance (aka Mark Davies) and Darren Decoder (aka Darren Beale), and the forceful vocals of Welsh singer-songwriter Sian Evans. The trio together create a sound that truly should be heard live.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul.

24, MTechnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.kosheenrecords.com. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.

29.03 Sunday 10:00 Scooter This German electronic/ techno/dance music group is known for making songs with fast, heavy dance beats.

The ensemble has been making music with frontman H.P. Baxxter since 1993.

The new album was created with the help of the group’s newest member, Austrian DJ Phil Speiser, who brings his fresh musical talents and industry success to the now more than 20-year-old collective.

The band’s new album will showcase new experimental sounds, but concertgoers can of course expect to hear the group’s greatest hits and experience the intensity and extravagance of a true Scooter show.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. scootertechno.com. Tickets 1,600 - 3,500Rbl.

Exhibitions

cinema If you are looking for a night at the movies without having to play some sophisticated form of charades to work out what’s going on - we have good news for you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show movies in English or their original language. If you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t pass up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora.

Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.

Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru.

Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.

Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.

Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru.

14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

ThrOugh 15.02 Sunday Theo Frey ROSPHOTO presents a solo exhibition of 20th century Swiss photographer Theo Frey (1908-1997) that features his photos from the collection at the Fotostiftung Schweiz Foundation.

Though Frey’s main income came from his work as a photojournalist, his preferred assignments were those that more closely coincided with his personal artistic and humanitarian interests: the documentation of everyday people and everyday life as opposed to the constantly shifting stories of current events. Most of his work was created in the late 1930s and 1940s and documents life in rural Switzerland, including a project completed in 1938-1939 in which he captured the portraits of residents from twelve different communities all over the country.QD-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 100-200Rbl. ThrOugh 01.03 Sunday Alexander Samokhvalov. 1894-1971 The Russian Museum presents a solo exhibition of the works of Soviet painter Alexander Nikolaevich Samokhvalov (18941971). The exhibition is a full retrospective of the artist’s works, consisting of over 250 pieces. Samokhvalov is best known for his work during the 1920s-1930s, when he painted his most recognized monumental patriotic paintings of Soviet youth and the New Soviet Person. Though the exhibition will pay special attention to this fundamental period of Samokhvalov’s work, it will also display the full breadth of his artistic mastery, including his work in mediums other than painting and graphic art, such as sculpture, porcelain painting, posters and architectural drawings.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events ThrOugh 08.03 Sunday Gifts from East and West to the Imperial Court over 300 Years During the 300-year period from the reign of Peter I to Nikolai II, Petersburg was the imperial capital city and played host to the empire’s official meetings, visits and celebrations. During these diplomatic events it was customary to exchange gifts as concrete regonition of one country’s respect for the other. The Hermitage collection traces the history of this practice, displaying gifts to Russia - from paintings to silver and porcelain tea sets to elaborate snuff boxes - from both Western and Eastern empires. Historically and aesthetically valuable, these objects silently bear witness to Russia’s dynamic diplomatic relations with the East and West from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century.QD-2, The State Hermitage, The General Staff Building, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200Rbl.

ThrOugh 15.03 Sunday Prince Vladimir Nikolaevich ArgutinskyDolgorukov Collection Prince V.N. Argutinsky-Dolgorukov (1874-1941) was a wellknown Petersburg art collector and connoisseur in the second decade of the 20th century, as well as a curator at the Hermitage after the 1917 revolution. Before moving to Paris in 1921, he donated his vast collection of more than 300 pieces to the Museum of Old Petersburg (now the State Museum of the History of Saint Petersburg). The collection includes sketches and plans from leading Petersburg architects of the 18th to the first half of the 19th centuries, as well as paintings, water colors, drawings, engravings and lithographs, which depict views of and plans for the capital and its construction.

QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Wed. Admission 200Rbl.

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Ball of Robots

ThrOugh 09.03 Monday This winter, an international gathering of robots premieres in Russia’s cultural capital. The “Ball of Robots” event brings together the most advanced robotics technology from all over the world, including robots from America, Europe, South Korea and Japan. One of the most anticipated guests at the Ball is the famously charming British robot-humanoid, Thespian. Thespian, as the name indicates, is a highly advanced robotic actor, who is able to “act out” incredibly convincing emotions and moods. Thespian’s complex gestures, facial expressions and speech, in over 88 different languages, allow it to not only fluently interact and communicate with humans, but also to win over their affections in the process!

Other guests at this year’s Ball include the French robot NAO, an adorable, friendly robot, able to recognise and communicate with humans. Also present is American robot, Baxter, primarily a factory robot, designed to learn and instantly master small tasks. From Zelenograd, Russia comes the anthropomorphic robot Pushkin, who consists of a highly life-like reconstruction of the poet’s head and is able to speak and recite his own verse. The interactive and educational program of the Robot Ball includes the ROBOLABORATORY, ROBOPHOTO, and ROBOMARKET. In the lab, visitors will be given the opportunity to play engineer and, using computers and 3D printers, become familiar with the basic skills of robot design, programming and assembly. The Ball will also feature an exhibition of paintings from the collection “Robots and Donuts” by American artist Eric Joyner.QE-4, Creative space Tkachi, nab. Obvodnogo kan. 60, MObvodny kanal, tel. (+7) 800 555 80 11, www.balrobotov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00.

Admission from 290Rbl.

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Culture & Events ThrOugh 31.03 Tuesday Monet to Cezanne - the French Impressionists St. Petersburg is the first city in the world to view this stunning new project

by Australian company Grand Exhibitions. The exhibition breaks far beyond the boundaries of the usual gallery-spectator experience. Using the latest SENSORY 4 TM technology, including large-scale projections on dozens of screens, multi-channel animated graphics and surround sound, the gallery-space is utterly transformed into an immersive, participatory experience, where the ‘viewer’ is able to literally step into and walk through the painted worlds of the French Impressionist masters.

Projections of pieces by Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cezanne and others reveal subtle details and unexpected angles and transport viewers back to the streets of 19th century Paris, re-creating the bright bohemian atmosphere with colors, light and shadow, accompanied by the music of Debussy, Tchaikovsky, Ravel and Offenbach. QB-3, Lenexpo Exhibition Complex, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, pavilion 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 791 58 28, www.monet-cezanne.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Tickets 350Rbl, Sat and Sun 450Rb. Family ticket (2 adults plus 1 or 2 kids) 900/1,000Rbl, Sat and Sun 1,000/1,100Rbl. ThrOugh 10.05 Sunday Her Imperial Majesty’s Hermitage 2014 marked the 250th anniversary of the Hermitage’s creation. In honor of the museum’s long and esteemed life viewers are invited to enter the world of the Hermitage as Her Majesty Catherine II experienced it. The exhibition is based on Prussian explorer, ethnographer and naturalist Johann Gottlieb Georgi’s detailed descriptions of the Imperial Hermitage recorded in 1793-1794, only 30 years after the museum’s official birthday. The exhibition features several sections that display and describe the museum’s original structure. Also on display are characteristic works from Catherine’s time, including the Empress’ library and painting gallery and a collection of rare objects from the East.QD-2, The State Hermitage, The Nicholas Hall of the Winter Palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum. org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. 16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

ThrOugh 26.05 Tuesday Petrograd Sky In honor of the 100-year anniversary of the start of World War I, the museumapartment of poet A.A. Blok presents an exhibition on war and literature. The exhibition concentrates on the role of literature as witness to the experiences of life at war. The exhibition will display collections by Blok, Gorodetsky, Kuzmin, Remizov, Sologub, and Shchepkina-Kupernik, as well as collectively pusblished works and periodicals from the war years. The displays will be accompanied by a multi-media program that focuses in part on the the personal fates of these writerwitenesses, many of whom lived through the worst of the war, serving as soldiers, medics and correspondants in the thick of battle.QC-3, Memorial flat of Alexander Blok, ul.

Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 16, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 120Rbl. ThrOugh 31.05 Sunday Vintage Cars The Motion project, with the support of the Moscow Museum of vintage cars and vintage art collectors, presents a unique collection of American, European and Soviet vintage cars, all in exquisite condition. To help transport viewers of all ages back in time, the exhibition includes a special show program for kids.

Adults can find a nostalgic table filled with Soviet specialties, including childhood favourites like cotton candy.

For those feeling more mature, the company Simple will be holding wine tastings. For the course of this year, the cars on display will be refreshed and updated every three months, so don’t miss your chance to see what’s on display this round!QPRISMA Shopping Centre, Vyborgskoe shosee 503, bldg.1A, MPr. Prosveshcheniya, www. auto-retro-museum.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Admission 300Rbl. Getting there: from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro station take a free bus (it leaves every hour from the bus station next to the Baskin Robbins cafe, pr. Prosveshcheniya 32/1) or marshrutka 555А, К456, К676; from Ozerki metro station take bus 109,109А, 109B.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events ThrOugh 13.09 Sunday “The ball roars, the ball gleams…”

St. Petersburg Social Entertainment in the 18th-20th centuries With over 300 displays from the State Museum of St. Petersburg History and the Russian National Library, this exhibition submerges visitors in the infamous center of the Imperial capital’s social life - the ball. At the heart of the exhibit are the splendor and luxury of ball attire and accessories. Photographs, posters and advertisements are also on display and demonstrate the incredible variety of Petersburg balls over time, from the Imperial through the early Soviet eras. The exhibit also features interactive events, including lectures on the history of ball attire and master classes, where you can learn to dance the waltz or communicate in the secret language of fans and decorative flowers.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 80 - 150Rbl. 05.02 Thursday - 29.03 Sunday Vladimir Vorobyov Part of a series of exhibitions at ROSPHOTO whose goal is to acquaint contemporary viewers with the work of outstanding photographers from Russia and the Soviet Union, this solo exhibition of Novokuznetsk photographer Vladimir Vorobyov is an excellent chance to experience the photographer’s powerful work from the end of the Soviet era. The exhibition is a retrospective of the artist’s work spanning from the end of the 1970s to the end of the 1980s. Included in the exposition are works from two contingent cycles dedicated to documentation of everyday people in Novokuznetsk and to the steelworkers at the Novokuznetsk Iron and Steel Plant.QD-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www. rosphoto.org. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 100-200Rbl.

Erarta exhibitions Through February 23, 2015 “Bond” - Olga Boldyreff Olga Boldyreff was born in 1957 into a family of Russian emigres in Nantes, France. Her work has been acclaimed for its high level of craftsmanship, its use of traditionally domestic materials, such as yarn and thread, and interdisciplinary artistic methods. This winter, Erarta Museum is hosting a solo exhibition of her works that weave together her real and imagined, remembered and dreamed experiences of France and Russia. The exhibition includes a series of graphic works, created especially for the Erarta exhibition, which show various images of the Don and Loire rivers as a single visual sequence, as well as paintings featuring symbols of St. Petersburg.

February 4 - March 15, 2015 Hats in the 21st Century Ireland born and London based milliner Philip Treacy is known for turning heads. His fantastic, often over the top hat designs have caused media sensations all over the world, photographed atop the heads of royal family members, Hollywood actresses, and American pop stars. Treacy’s masterfully crafted pieces know no boundries in color, shape or material: he uses everything from feathers, to live plants to textiles, fur, plastic, metal and even electronical appliances. The exhibition at St. Petesburg’s contemporary art museum is the largest exhibition of Treacy’s work in 25 years and features more than 100 unique objects, 75 of which are head pieces.

February 27 - April 27, 2015 Oscar Rabin Born in Moscow in 1928, painter Oscar Rabin was a member of the progressive intelligentsia in the Soviet Union in the 1960s-70s. He was a leader of the Russian nonconformist movement, an organizer of the wellknown dissident “Bulldozer Exhibition” in 1974, and one of the founding members of the Lianozovo Group.

Rabin was forced to emigrate from the Soviet Union in 1978 and moved to Paris, where he lives and works to this day. The artist’s solo exhibition at the Erarta will display only his most recent pieces, created in the past ten years. The exhibition will also feature screenings of documentary films about the artist’s life and work.

QB-3, Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, VO, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue.

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Feature

CELEBRATING RUSSIA’S WINTER As you still reel from the festive onslaught of Christmas, New Year, Christmas again - oh, and Old New Year - Russia steps in with the jab, uppercut and haymaker of Maslenitsa, Defender’s Day and Women’s Day. Read our guide to the pre-Spring holiday season, and you may not need to throw in the towel.

Seconds out, round two...

18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Features February is the coldest month in Russia, and after three or four months of dark days and cloudy weather, we all need a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty of reasons to gather together with friends and celebrate life in general. The season kicks off in romantic style with Valentine’s Day, a time for couples to celebrate their love and for singles to make the most of being single. This is followed nine days later by Defender of the Fatherland day, a great excuse for the girls to celebrate the courage and fearlessness of their man, and for the lads to get together and just celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of stories they wouldn’t dare tell the girls, brave as they are.

If and when you survive these two celebrations, it’s time to kick back and relax with a pancake or five through the week of Maslenitsa, and once this marathon effort is over, you’re ready for The Big One – International Women’s Day. Roses are red, violets are blue, if you don’t buy her flowers, that’s the end of you…

Valentine’s Day Few countries seem to ooze romance the way Russia does and it is surprising that Valentine’s Day is a relatively recent import. However, it is now widely celebrated and if you intend to go out this Valentine’s, be prepared to book in advance: restaurants are crowded and bars are packed on the night of February 14 as couples dine together to commemorate their love, and singles flock to clubs offering special programmes to bring the lonely, unattached, or just plain frisky together. The traditions are similar to those in other countries, couples give each other flowers, heartshaped boxes of chocolates, greeting cards, and merry hell if either one forgets.

Love is in the air Russia’s Northern Capital is filled to the brim with romantic hotspots: the Venice of the North did produce Pushkin, Russia’s greatest love poet, after all. Even the most stonehearted and cynical human cannot fail to be moved by the city’s innate romance on a trip to wintry St. Petersburg. Any season can be the season of romance in this city, so we’ve compiled our list of the city’s best locales for a little amorous action.

As the name suggests, you shouldn’t miss the Winter Palace in winter. When dusk arrives in the late afternoon, this makes for a fine early twilight walk through the museum.

Wander through the Hermitage, along Raphael’s loggia, taking in the views of the picturesque and frosty Neva River. That there are fewer people about contributes greatly to the atmosphere, as you can admire the masterpieces at your leisure, without having to wrestle a coach-party just to get a decent view. You may even begin to feel that this wondrous palace is all yours, but for the grandmotherly chaperon sitting in each room keeping a beady eye on you.

Ice skating simply breathes romance. If it is not the ruddy cheeked glow or the graceful skaters, it is those first time skaters who take to the ice in pairs and have to hang off each other just to stay upright. We know you have all been there, you little devils… Falling on your behind may not www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

seem terribly conducive to the whispering of sweet nothings, but it’s a pretty quick way to fall into your lover’s arms.

There are a lot of ice rinks set up in most parks around town so you don’t have to look hard for somewhere to lace up those skates. After skating we recommend a mug of warm spicy mulled wine in a cosy bar.

The islands to the north of the city offer miles of relaxed wandering. Kamenny Ostrov (“Stone Island”) with its exclusive houses and manicured lawns is a lovely quiet spot.

Elagin Island offers uninterrupted strolling amidst natural forest free from the usual city distractions, in fact it’s easy to feel that you’ve left the city altogether. Here you can also visit the ornate Elagin Palace, the first architectural project completed by Carlo Rossi, and on weekends outside you can often hear swing or jazz music coming from the park’s loudspeakers, or a live band striking up a tune. So if anyone feels like dancing…

No romantic city guide would be complete without mentioning Potseluyev Most, or the Bridge of Kisses. Considered the most romantic of all bridges in the city, it crosses the Moika Canal near pl. Truda and ul. Glinki. The word on the street is that whoever should kiss while standing on the bridge will stay with that person forever and have a happy and harmonious marriage. Like all urban legends, however, how true this one is remains to be seen, but it remains a popular place for men to propose marriage. We have heard that the name of the bridge comes from the man who owned the pub on the corner of ul. Glinki, but Landlord’s Bridge just doesn’t have the same ring to it.

At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter where you are - in such a romantic city as this, a metro platform, the bread aisle in the supermarket, even the produkty shop on the corner can become unexpected hidden pockets of romance. Other romantic spots include the observation platform at the top of Smolny Cathedral (a great place to smoulder away with a fine view of the cityscape below), a stroll through the Summer Gardens or even a trip to the Mariinsky. Go on, don’t be shy…

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Features Wait For Me by Konstantin Simonov Wait for me, and I’ll come back!

Wait with all you’ve got!

Wait, when dreary yellow rains Tell you, you should not.

Wait when snow is falling fast, Wait when summer’s hot, Wait when yesterdays are past, Others are forgot.

Wait, when from that far-off place, Letters don’t arrive.

Wait, when those with whom you wait Doubt if I’m alive.

Wait for me, and I’ll come back!

Wait in patience yet When they tell you off by heart That you should forget.

Even when my dearest ones Say that I am lost, Even when my friends give up, Sit and count the cost, Drink a glass of bitter wine To the fallen friend Wait! And do not drink with them!

Wait until the end!

Wait for me and I’ll come back, Dodging every fate!

“What a bit of luck!” they’ll say, Those that did not wait.

They will never understand How amidst the strife, By your waiting for me, dear, You had saved my life.

How I made it, we shall know, Only you and I. You alone knew how to wait We alone know why!

Konstantin Simonov said of his own masterpiece, “There is no special story to ‘Wait for me’. I was just going to war, and the woman I loved was staying behind. And I wrote her a letter in verse.” Yet the words that follow were to be engraved in the hearts of countless Russians during the Great Patriotic War: it was cut out of the paper, copied out, learned by heart, and sent back in letters to wives and sweethearts. Not even originally intended for publication, in the history of Russian poetry it would be hard to find a poem which had such an impact.

20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Maslenitsa Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been absorbed into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of winter and the arrival of spring. Running from February 16th to the 22nd, and known in other countries as Mardi Gras or Carnival, In Russia it celebrates the last week before Lent with a massive, knock-down drag-out pancake-fest designed to carb load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of abstinence. On the last day of Maslenitsa, there’s usually a union of pagan and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter – is set ablaze with true mediaeval pyromaniac glee.

Russian Wide Maslenitsa in Pskov Located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg, near the Estonian border, Pskov is a great place to get away from the city for a day, breathe some fresh air and enjoy a walk back in time to mediaeval Russia. Steeped in history and rich in tradition and culture, there’s no better place to experience the particularly Russian holiday of Maslenitsa than Pskov. Festivities during Maslenitsa usually include a bustling crafts fair, folk songs and dances, troika-racing through the snow, ice sculptures, pole-climbing displays of strength and virility by the gents, doll-making from the ladies and did we mention bliny? Oh, the bliny. Stacks and stacks of pancakes bought, sold and devoured, which culminate in a contest whereby participants have 10 minutes to prepare the largest number of bliny their hot little frying pans can handle. The delectable results are then auctioned off to benefit the Church of the Holy Martyr of Faith, Hope and Charity. Don’t forget to stay for the burning of Kostroma and cheer on the end of winter!

Read more about Pskov on page 49.

Defender of the Fatherland Day

Defender of the Fatherland Day (it sounds just as longwinded in Russian) was originally a holiday to commemorate the formation of the Red Army in 1918, and is still celebrated in many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend for changing Soviet names, although it’s most commonly known simply as Men’s Day. Although technically it is still a military holiday, it’s also a public holiday, so all men are celebrated, whether they’ve ever worn khaki or not, and has in effect become the male counterpart (or perhaps pale shadow) of International Women’s Day. February 23rd is therefore accompanied by a host of beer and other alcohol-related festivals to help the day go with a bang. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features Russian Women On March 8, Russia celebrates International Women’s Day. One of Russia’s biggest public holidays, it is second only to New Year and Russians go all out to congratulate their women. It’s impossible to ignore the infectious spirit of this holiday. Beaming men wait with red roses at metro exits and happy couples linger about in the streets. See them drinking champagne, while the first sunshine after many dark winter months warms their hearts and their relationships.

Employers would be fools to forget to give gifts to their female staff. Many clubs and restaurants celebrate this special day the evening before, so be sure to mark your calendar and visit one. Women’s Day is has its roots in the (pre)revolution days. It was first celebrated in Russia on the last Sunday of February 1913, in conjunction with the peace movement on the eve of the First World War. The demonstrations marking International Women’s Day in Russia proved to be the first stage of the Russian Revolution. In 1917 Russian women rallied on the last Sunday of February for their right to bread and peace. This demonstration was part of the movement that led to the February Revolution. Four days later the last tsar was forced to abdicate and women won their right to vote. After converting the date to the Gregorian calendar, March 8th became International Women’s Day. It is celebrated in every nook and cranny in Russia and flowers are sold by the dozens. Following the October Revolution, the Bolshevik feminist Alexandra Kollontai persuaded Lenin to make it an official holiday, and during the Soviet period it continued to celebrate ‘the heroic woman worker’. In the West, International Women’s Day was commemorated during the 1910s and 1920s, but dwindled. It was revived by the rise of feminism in the 1960s. In 1975, the United Nations began sponsoring International Women’s Day. The general idea of having an international women’s day worldwide was first put forward at the turn of the 20th century amid rapid world industrialization and economic expansion that led to protests over working conditions.

Not so much the pillars of society as its elegant, yet steadfast Ionic columns, a veritable host of remarkable women have helped shape Mother Russia over the centuries. To mark International Women’s Day, we have selected just a few of the most influential, illustrious and illuminating female figures ever to have graced Russian history. You should never forget your granny on March 8th, so nor will we: in fact, we’ll kick off our list with Vladimir the Great’s.

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Olga of Kiev A convert to Christianity at least 30 years before Kiev Rus’ followed suit, Olga was, by all accounts, not someone to be trifled with. In 945, her husband Igor, son of Rurik, was killed by the Drevlians while attempting to collect tribute – it was apparently the second collection within a month, hence their ire. In response, Olga had various Drevlian envoys buried or burned alive, before inviting another 5,000 to a feast, who were also slaughtered. She then sent an army to raze their city to the ground with the aid of – we kid you not – incendiary-equipped birds. Most likely of Varangian descent, her name is a derivation of the Old Norse Helga, meaning “holy”, and is of course still in common use today.

Upon conversion to Christianity she took the name Elena, and ruled as regent until her son, Svyatoslav the Brave, reached maturity in 963. In fact she ran domestic matters for a good few years after that, as Svyatoslav was much happier waging war on neighbouring fiefdoms. Mindful no doubt of her husband’s fate, Olga made changes to the tribute system in accordance with which appointed officials, and not the ruler himself, did the collecting. She is thus credited with making the first recorded legal reform in Eastern Europe.

Nadezhda Durova The daughter of a Russian army officer, Nadezhda Durova was raised in the care of her father’s subordinates following a near-death experience in her early years when her unstable mother, who had wanted a son, snatched her from the arms of her nanny and threw her out of the window of a moving carriage. It is said that her favourite childhood toy was a gun, and she wrote in her own memoir The Cavalry Maiden that her “first cradle was a horse’s saddle”. The call of the army did not leave Durova when her father retired, and in 1807 she absconded from home, disguised herself as a boy and joined up, fighting with distinction in the Prussian campaign of 1806-7.

When she finally wrote home from the front, her family used their connections to try to locate her, and word that a woman was serving in the Imperial Army eventually reached an intrigued Alexander I. When she was summoned to court, Durova so impressed the Tsar that he awarded her the Cross of St George and promoted her to the rank of lieutenant. In 1812 she saw action at both Smolensk and Borodino, sustaining a leg injury at the latter from a cannonball. The Cavalry Maiden, considered one of the earliest autobiographies written in Russian, may never have come to light at all had Durova not been persuaded many years later to publish her war diaries by a certain Alexander Pushkin.

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Features Catherine the Great

Alexandra Kollontai

Born Sophia Augusta Frederica, Catherine took her more familiar name upon conversion to Orthodoxy at the age of 15. Her zeal to be accepted in the Russian court was such that the young princess very nearly died of pneumonia a few months previously as a result of walking barefoot round the palace at night reciting her Russian lessons.

But although Catherine did not inherit Peter the Great’s genes, she certainly fell heir to his expansionist instincts, rapidly augmenting her empire to the west, south and east.

She also opened up Russia’s second route to the open sea through the Bosphorous following her emphatic victory over the Ottomans in 1774. At home, Catherine presided over a flourishing of social and cultural life, although the path she trod between autocratic ruler and enlightened thinker was not always smooth: an enthusiastic correspondent with the leading intellectuals of the day, shortly before the Pugachev rebellion she famously stated to Voltaire, “no single peasant in Russia could not eat chicken whenever he pleased”. Undoubtedly one of the central architects of Russia’s rise to the status of global power, Catherine may have been a conflicted character, but her legacy is beyond doubt.

Probably the most prominent woman in the Soviet administration following the October 1917 Revolution, Alexandra Kollontai was the first People’s Commissar for Social Welfare, and during her relatively brief spell in governnment, founded the Zhenotdel (“Women’s Department”), which worked to improve the lives of women under the new regime. Born in St Petersburg in 1872, Kollontai (she retained her surname from her brief first marriage) had become interested in radical political thought while studying in Switzerland. Originally from the Menshevik faction, she went across to the Bolshevik’s in 1915, but after the revolution became increasingly critical of Lenin’s policies, and she was ultimately sidelined into a diplomatic career.

Appointed Soviet Ambassador to Norway in 1923, and later serving in Mexico and Sweden, she was to remain in post in Stockholm until the end of the Second World War. An unflinching advocate of free love, Kollontai’s death in the early 1950s, just short of her 80th birthday, meant that she did not live to see the wider embracing of her ideas in the decades that followed. Her second marriage, to fellow Communist Pavel Dybenko, was also not to last, although Leningrad’s town planners have had the last word: Ulitsa Kollontai and Ulitsa Dybenko run parallel in the eastern part of the city, aptly connected by Prospekt Bolshevikov!

Sofia Tolstaya Behind every great man, and all that, but this literary giant’s devoted spouse must really be put in a category of one. If you want evidence, look no further than the fact that she is said to have copied out – and edited – the manuscript of War and Peace not once, but seven times.

Sofia was introduced to her husband’s writings at an early stage in their relationship: on the eve of their wedding he is said to have given her his diairies, which detailed, among other things, his “idiscretions” with female serfs, one of whom had borne him a child. Undeterred (although presumably more than a little miffed), Sofia added another 13 official offspring to the Tolstoy total, although “only” eight were to survive childhood. Tolstaya can also lay claim to being one of history’s first social photocorrespondents, having taken up photography in 1887: she left a collection of over 1000 photographs depicting not only her husband and life on the Yasnaya Polyana estate, but also more generally the last days of tsarist Russia. She also left her diaries, and a memoir simply entitled My Life. Sofia’s 48-year marriage ended on a sour note: after continual conflict over Toltsoy’s stated determination to relinquish all his worldly possessions, Leo abruptly left his wife at the age of 82, and died less than two weeks later.

22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Sofia Kovalevskaya Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya was a renowned mathematician, writer and advocate of women’s rights in the 19th century.

Her struggle to obtain the best education possible forced her to study overseas, and she entered the University of Heidelberg in 1869. Dedicated to social reform, Kovalevskaya made a key contribution to opening university doors to women in Russia. In 1883 she lectured at the University of Stockholm and was made Professor of Mechanics, becoming the first female professor in Northern Europe. In 1888 she was awarded the coveted Prix Bordin by the French Academy of Sciences for a pioneering paper on the motions of bodies, and the following year, after vociferous lobbying by her peers, was granted a Chair at the Russian Academy of Sciences, although she was never to receive a full professorship. In addition to her mathematical writings, Kovalevskaya also published her memoir A Russian Childhood, co-wrote a number of plays, and authored the semiautobiographical novel Nihilist Girl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features Anna Pavlova

Marina Raskova

Born in Ligovo, St. Petersburg in 1881, Anna Pavlova’s passion for ballet was ignited at an early age when her mother took her to see Sleeping Beauty at the Mariinsky. Perhaps best known for her creation of the Dying Swan, Pavlova’s rise was by no means a steady one, and it was only her extraordinary dedication that enabled la petite sauvage to become one of the greatest prima ballerinas of the 20th century. Her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world, in fact it is said that no dancer, before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles in 15 years. In order to better support her frail, rigid feet, Pavlova added a wooden block to her ballet shoes in what was considered a cheat at the time, but gave rise to the now universal pointe shoe. She moved to London in 1912, where she went on to become a major force in the development of British ballet. In 1931 Pavlova contracted pneumonia while on tour in The Hague, refusing a remedial operation that might have meant she would never dance again. Succumbing to pleurisy shortly afterwards, her last words were said to be “Get my Swan costume ready.”

On a lighter note, in 1938 Marina Raskova took part in the first non-stop flight from Moscow to the Russian Far East. With an all-female crew, the flight lasted 26 hours and 29 minutes, but for Raskova the journey was to last a great deal longer: in poor visibility they lost their bearings to the landing site, and with her navigators’ compartment nonsurvivable in the event of a forced landing, she was forced to bail out in mid-air. Armed with only a revolver and two chocolate bars, it was another 10 days before she found the plane in the wilderness. Following the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War, Raskova formed three women-only air regiments, evidently using her personal connections with Stalin to overcome both bureaucratic and chauvinistic hurdles. The most famous of these was undoubtedly the 46th Taman Guards Night Bomber Aviation Regiment, nicknamed die Nachthexen (“Night Witches”) by the Germans, which flew over 24,000 sorties during the course of the war in antiquated bi-planes, and produced a remarkable 24 Heroes of the Soviet Union. Raskova herself, whose childhood ambition was to be an opera singer, perished in 1943 attempting a forced landing near Stalingrad. The first Soviet combatant of the war to be given a state funeral, her ashes were interred in the Kremlin walls.

Marina Tsvetaeva Were you to compile a list of countries producing tragic literary geniuses, Russia would probably be right near the top. If you then made another list just for Russia, then Marina Tsvetaeva would most likely be at or near the top of that one. Born in Moscow in 1892, Tsvetaeva’s family left Russia for warmer climes during her early teens in a futile attempt to prevent her mother from succumbing to tuberculoisis, and in 1910, aged just 18, she published her first collection of poems to considerable acclaim. Having returned to Russia after the revolution, with no financial support, and her husband Sergei Efron fighting with the White Army, in 1919 she placed both their daughters in a state orphanage, where the youngest died a year later aged just 3 years old.

In 1922 Tsvetaeva went into political exile, living in poverty in Paris, Berlin (where she was reunited with Sergei, who she thought had been killed) and then Prague. In 1939 she went back to the Soviet Union where both Sergei and her surviving daughter Ariadna were arrested as spies. In 1941, Sergei was executed, Ariadna imprisoned, and Tsvetaeva hanged herself not long afterwards. Boris Pasternak wrote: ‘The greatest recognition and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding twentieth century poet.’ Tsvetaeva left an immeasurable literary legacy, but her rehabilitation was not to begin until the 1960s.

Valentina Tereshkova Not only the first woman but also, as her enrolment in the Soviet Air Force was purely a formality for her to officially become a cosmonaut, the first civilian in space, Valentina Tereshkova is the first great woman on our list to still be alive today.

A textile worker by trade, it was her weekend hobby, skydiving, that led to her advancement into the fledgling Soviet space programme. Selected from over 400 applicants, Tereshkova blasted off on her first (and only) flight on 16 June 1963, completing 48 earth orbits in just under three days, in the process notching up more space time than the entire US manned space programme had up to that point. Ha! Tereshkova’s post-cosmic career took her first into engineering, thence into politics, where she became a high-ranking member of the Supreme Soviet and the Central Committee.

Nor did her star fade with the collapse of the Soviet Union – Tereshkova remains a revered figure in Russian public life, and was one of the flag-carriers at the opening ceremony of the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. At one time a member of the research team looking into the feasibility of going to Mars, in 2013 Tereshkova, then 76, was quoted as saying that she’d still be prepared to go, even if it ended up being a one-way trip.

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Where to eat St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.

Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.

Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles.

The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request an English version of the menu.

QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat until last guest. €€. PTAGSW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. However many people come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink.

Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial English speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu.QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com.

Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Khutor Vodograi A consummately presented restaurant features an enormous tree inside, lovely whitewashed walls and dark beams that recreate the feel of a Ukrainian village house.

They offer an extensive menu of authentic treats to tempt any palate. Try the home-made sausages and the black bread with salo, the traditional Ukrainian delicacy made from salt-cured pig fat.QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 57 37, www.vodograi.ru.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULEGSW NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the music, often featuring a charming, personality-packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€.

PTALEGSW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of establishment as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom. ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€.

PTAUEGSW Tsar Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and the toilets are even encased inside giant, leather-lined st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance.QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€.

PTAVEGSW Vkus Est Located along a quiet stretch of the Fontanka, with only the Bolshoi Drama Theater as company, Vkus Yest deserves to have more trade than it will probably ever get - a shame because both the atmosphere and the food are deserving of serious attention. Serving new Russian cuisine - simple, local ingredients prepared to traditional recipes with a twist - Vkust Yest has a lot going for it. The 1970s-style interior is also worth mentioning, including black-painted metal detailing, polished concrete, comfy camel-coloured leather cushions on the banquettes and huge windows that offer great views of the canal.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 82, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 33 76, www. facebook.com/tastetoeat. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW

Asian and Indian Apteka Apteka is a restaurant with an innovative approach to marketing - its owners keep the location a closely guarded secret. So as to not spoil the mystery, all we can say is that the restaurant’s entrance can be found in the restroom of another well-known restaurant on Nevsky Prospekt. The restaurant, whose name literally means “pharmacy” or “drugstore”, features a menu of original dishes from the Indian chef Jimmy Singh and unusual, aromatic cocktails prepared by the bartenders/chemists in his laboratory. Call to reserve a table and all will be revealed.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 931 305 22 77. Open 15:00 - 01:00. €€. AGS Cardamon Located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg, this gem of Indian cuisine still has yet to be fully discovered. The warm-coloured decor features Indian tapestries on the walls and painted tile detail. The delicious naan, a puffed Indian bread, and crispy poppadom are definitely worth sampling and go well with any dish on the menu. Ravi, originally from India and a long time resident in St. Petersburg, runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he’s got everything right. We haven’t yet tried anything from the additional selection of Russian dishes on the menu, but as far as Indian food goes, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €.

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Where to eat Beer Restaurants

Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry House is a perfect addition to the city’s food scene, serving food from all parts of India. The menu is extensive and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers a wide variety of vegetarian dishes. More good news is the restaurant’s great location: basically next door to the Mariinsky, it’s a perfect spot to spice things up before a performance!QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW Dve Palochki This chain of superior Japanese restaurants is practically ubiquitous around the city, especially in the centre. Luckily, the restaurant’s high level of service and comfort is also standard across the board. The menu includes traditional sushi rolls, soups and teas. We love the atlantic rolls (salmon, philadelphia and eel) as well as the wonderful spread of baked rolls - we recommend the crab rolls with hot shitake mushroom sauce. The unique restrooms are still a bit of a mystery; two toilets in one cubicle - what’s that about? With more than 24 locations in the city, including ul. Italianskaya 6 (metro Nevsky pr.), it’s almost difficult not to conveniently run across one during your stay in St. Petersburg.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 02 22, www.dvepalochki. ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00. €. PTAVSW Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.

For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two spacious rooms, this place is ideal for dining in large groups.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGSW

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26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Bierstube Serving beer from their own brewery, the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some delicious local brews. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or inside the wood and stucco-decorated centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like fried calamari and cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech-inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you’ll have a chance to walk off all the calories after.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULGSW Birreria Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passazh shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view of the beautiful Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. It’s a great place to stop by with friends, watch a game or drink a few beers and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu offers classic Italian favourites that are worth every rouble.

Service is good and unobtrusive and the beer selection is enough to put anyone in a good mood, so you’re bound to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www.birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€.

PTAGSW Dickens This island of British culture, located near the Fontanka river, has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, as well a good selection of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and really authentically British.

Dickens offers a pub atmosphere, as close to a real British pub as you’ll find in Russia, and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAGSW Kriek Brasserie With five boutique beers on tap, including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach.

If you’re dreaming of a glass of cold, sweet cherry beer paired with Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the answer to your prayers. Also at Italyanskaya ul. 17 (metro Nevsky pr.).QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30. €. PAGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat KwakInn Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the longgone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says - settle in, we’re all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub (the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr.

37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www. kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW Palm Belgian Brasserie Located smack in the centre of the city, just off Nevsky, the Palm is a convenient and comfortable place, notably if you appreciate beer and comfort food. Their bottled Trappist beer selection is impressive and the Whitte Trappist we tried on tap was excellent. If you’re looking for something satisfying and Belgian to snack on, make sure to order one of their Belgian waffles with your choice of sweet or savory toppings. As a plus, their coffee is, perhaps surprisingly for a low-key beer restaurant, also truly delicious.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 81 51, www.palminspb.ru. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. €€. PAS

Caucasian Baklazhan The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be the mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) is in the touches of deep purple, the wine bottles lining the walls and a sort of market stall selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare sprinkled with a few innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTAULVEGSW Khochu Kharcho “Khochu Kharcho!” is Russian for “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew with mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice in a highly spiced broth. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it’s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri and the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. €€.

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Where to eat Vegetarian Vegetarianism appeared in Russia in the 14th century through the followers of the Lenten mode of life. In the beginning of the 20th century St. Petersburg had a blooming vegetarian culture.

However, the revolution of 1917 stopped all that as it was considered to be a reflection of bourgeois ideology. Nowadays it’s again slowly becoming popular. While your friends may think that eating only potatoes and mushrooms for a couple of weeks will do, for a pleasant meat free stay in St. Petersburg you need more nutrition.

Botanika Excellent vegetarian food including outstanding salads (try the tabouleh), great pasta and filling soups. Reminiscent of a Victorian dining parlour with greenery scattered with a touch of a 70s wholefood cafe. The interior sports three calming tones of green, there are pumpkins and flowers strewn around and the sofas are soft.QE-2, Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 70 91, www.cafebotanika.ru. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAGSW Kashmir Don’t come here expecting your classical Indian cuisine.

It’s far too hippy for that. They do esoteric Indian vegetarian fare, complete with fresh fruit garnish though dill also seems to be considered a staple here, as does a cucumber and tomato array that is often quite out of place. They’ve got samosas and dahl, raita, soy steaks and a lot of dishes we can’t pronounce.QE-3, Bol. Moskovskaya ul. 7, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 575 63 69, www.chainiydom.ru/cafe/kashmir. Open 11:00 until last guest. €. PAVEGSW Ukrop This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that won’t break the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on each table! Also at Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 14.QE-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. Open 09:00 23:00. €. PTALGSW 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Mamalyga Just a stones throw from Nevsky, this restaurant offers you an assortment of food from the Caucasus region, including Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisine of Swaneti and Guria. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local (to the region) cooks. The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashliks, salads, khachapuri, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.

QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVGSW

European Fartuk Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (Russian for ‘apron’) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone, which is enhanced by the welcoming and attentive wait staff.

The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks make excellent refreshments.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 11:00 until last guest. €. PTAGSW Kroo Cafe It’s always nice to see new places appear in central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Sad, Kroo Cafe serves breakfasts beginning at 8:30 and keeps on going into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their French chef, who is keen on buying his own products at the market, ensuring the freshness of his ingredients.

Topped off by friendly and smiling servers, Kroo Cafe is sure not to disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www.kroocafe.com.

Open 08:30 - 00:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PTASW Let it bar A little off the beaten track, Let it Bar is a subterranean bar with a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant and friendly, although the service is a little slow. The interior consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, and plastered white walls. A walk-in fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array of food and provides a splash of colour in the space. Let it Bar offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with friends, but it has little to make it stand out from the crowd.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 32 46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €. PSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Moskva This restaurant’s rooftop location, on the 6th floor of the upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a well-dressed crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the coveted view. The interior is done out in various shades of cream with comfortable furniture in muted colours. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does bowls of fresh fruit at the open, central cooking stations. Another member of the Ginza Project family, the kitchen keeps high standards: while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains - the food is definitely well-made.QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW Mozhno Enter this whimsically decorated space and prepare to be transported to a new kind of dining experience. The menu is designed according to the diet principles of French nutritionist, Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting customers can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not be disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well as beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole grain purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged and amply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul. Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 26 16, www.mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.

PASW PirO.G.I. na Vosstaniya Open 24 hours a day, this place is dedicated to music lovers around the clock: there are DJ sets at night and the sounds of French chanson or retro can be heard by day. The food is simple, well-made and inexpensive. It’s a great place to stop in for lunch - they have very reasonably priced lunch specials every day - and the extensive menu includes all kinds of comfort food at any time of day, such as Beef Stroganoff with mashed potatoes, salads, pastas, dumplings and more. While you’re waiting for your food, you can check out the walls, which are covered with the photos of celebrities, or watch a silent film, usually being projected on one of the walls.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 72 15, www.piterogi.ru.

Open 24hrs. €. PAESW

Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. A dinner at Sunduk can turn into an entire evening of good company, and good music.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW Vinostudia This sleek, understated wine bar offers an open yet comfortably intimate space to enjoy a drink and/or meal. The interior features a deft combination of high, beautifully vaulted ceilings, minimalist seating (as well as a few plush couches) and a tasteful sprinkling of 1960s mod photography. They have a well-selected list of very reasonably priced wines by the glass, including a Bio Organic wine from France, and a much more extensive bottle list. Plus, if you’re in the mood for something a bit more substantial to accompany your beverage, there is a full, though modest, dinner menu.QD-2, Bol. Konuyshennaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 931 62 28, www.vinostudia.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PASW

Fine dining

Soup Wine Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads, but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads that come in bowls piled high with green leaves. Given the restaurant’s size and how easy it is to sit and linger, listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book a table in advance.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €.

PAGSW

Astoria Café Breathe history while dining at the newly renovated, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAUEGW

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Where to eat the vessel’s heritage. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly doesn’t disappoint and the wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages. Fantastic food with inimitable views of the Venice of the North makes this place one of the city’s most desirable eateries.

QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEGSW

L’Europe Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise for the taste buds. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples.

Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings everyday 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEGSW Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times, which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing region of the world.

Booking in advance is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr.

47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW The Flying Dutchman At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy berth you would expect, where the sharp modern interior doesn’t completely detract from 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Victoria A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes that are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also available.QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTALEGSW

International Arka The soft lighting, exposed brick and sky-lights create a chic, yet cosy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open until 06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 339 89 39, www.arka.spb. ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGSW Bolshaya Kukhnya Bolshaya Kukhnya (“Big Kitchen”) is a huge panorama restaurant located in the Galeria shopping centre, just a stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more.

The little ones have their very own menu in their very own restaurant. After filling their little bellies they can enjoy a fun, exciting and educational entertainment program while their parents relax in peace.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Deti Raika St. Petersburg’s fashionable ulitsa Rubinshteina offers a real plethora of trendy dens for artistic types, and the new St. Petersburg branch of Moscow’s prosperous Deti Raika is certainly up there with the best of them. Taking its name from the owner’s favourite film, the 1945 ‘Enfants du Paradis’, the venue’s high ceilings, elegant furniture and beautifully panelled floor would fit right in as an atmospheric black and white French film still. A wealthy array of cocktails adds to the effortless class of your surroundings, and with a menu that includes salads, sandwiches, soups, pizza, pasta and more, it seems nothing has been overlooked.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 20 37, www. detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. TAEGSW

Gosti Dining in this continental restaurant is a bit like going to your provincial granny’s cottage. That is, If your granny has as much culinary taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of mismatched floral patterns, books and decorative odds and ends on the walls, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generosity of granny and can be easily shared.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAVEGSW

Geografia As you might have guessed from the restaurant’s name, the menu includes cuisine from all around the world. Here you can enjoy the best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single dish can be really tricky. But eating is only half the pleasure at Georgafia; the restaurant takes great pride in its cocktails, offering more than 40 original concoctions that are aimed to make you cast away any preconceived ideas about matching food and drink. If making a choice is too difficult, ask one of the servers and they will be happy to be your guide on this exotic holiday.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTAEGSW

Mansarda Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which it’s served and shouldn’t disappoint even the most discerning guests. Classic European tastes dominate, though Asian influences are also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes in particular come highly recommended.QC3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALVEGSW

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Where to eat MarketPlace in Galeria For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace, a new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Galleria shopping mall. The restaurant features an open kitchen, where you can watch cooks prepare dishes from all over the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired by their travels all over the globe, have attempted to re-create the bustling, aromatic atmosphere of a market, where food is quickly made and reasonably priced, with the comforts and quality of a high-end restaurant. The food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurant’s interior is constructed only from eco-friendly materials, including wood, ceramic and brick detail. The space is designed for guests to sit comfortably, sipping a glass of wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the MarketPlace magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.marketplace.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

Myzhenaty Another of ulitsa Rubinshteina’s hip hideaways, the cafe Myzhenaty’s translation ‘we are married’ perhaps refers to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves, where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimalist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential coffees or juices to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich.

The venue gets a thumbs up for not trying too hard for flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary library-like setting where you can gather with friends for a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW PMI Bar The eminent PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic building on the Moika. The bar is located on the first floor, and features a menu of hand-crafted cocktails, created by the city’s best bartenders. On the second and third floors, you’ll find the restaurant zone and enoteca. Celebrated Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky has created a small specialty menu and the carefully put together wine list boasts the best selections of light and 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

fresh European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar invites popular DJs to perform and stars all over the world are known to stop by before and after their concerts. The bar also often hosts tours of the most notable chefs from around the world. But don’t let that intimidate you. At PMI, a friendly and relaxing atmosphere is king.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 10, www.pmibar.com. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW Schastye na Nevskom Schastye or “Happiness” is a cosy place in the centre where you can eat well and take a break from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The chef is inspired by his culinary excursions around the world (the most recent one was to New York) and uses an interesting mix of ingredients to make his creations. The interior is warmed by soft light and minty tones which create for a laid back and casual atmosphere. The menu is filled with balanced breakfasts which can be ordered at any time, soups, creative main dishes, and a wide range of desserts and sweets. Also at Mal. Morskaya ul. 24 and ul. Rubinshteina 15/17.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 85 55, www.schastye.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€.

PTAGSW Stroganoff Steakhouse If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.stroganoffsteakhouse. ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAUVEG� SW Zig Zag Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre of the city, this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It’s not exactly easy to find, but once you’re there you can’t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you’ve travelled in a time machine back to the 1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with such cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beet-root and other vegetables, off of which they produce themselves. All these things are well prepared and presented and the menu also includes burgers and finger foods, such as devilled eggs and fried green beans, which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar also offers interesting cocktails and irresistible desserts, which are definitely worth trying.QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00, www. zigzag.spb.ru/english/index.php. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Italian Borsalino For years Borsalino’s Italian head chef has made this restaurant a destination for tourists and residents alike. Their menu features simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavours from regions all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service and a regularly changing seasonal menu would be more than enough to satisfy even without the amazing views of St. Isaac’s square. Their buffet business lunch is also a bargain, as is their breakfast menu.QD-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULEGSW Francesco At Francesco you’ll be greeted by tasteful design, courteous staff and great looking dishes made with the freshest ingredients. We were particularly impressed with the wine menu, which is about as thick as a phone book, and the huge leafy salads. The whole place looks and feels like a middle-class Tuscan home, complete with plants, bird cages, wine bottles, cupboards filled with crockery and tables bursting with happy families enjoying classic Italian trattoria food.QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 47, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 05 52, www.restoran-francesco. ru. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€€.

PTALVESW

True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994

20 years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru

Gusto Gusto is a hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering masterpieces that benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes.

QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALEGSW Italy The chef at this restaurant spent many years in Italy learning the secrets of Italian cooking – and his experience is felt in every dish. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner, a process you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes like pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries as well as grilled fish and meat. Wash it all down with their sublime home-style lemonade. Downstairs is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if you’ve made the mistake of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a meal, you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot coffee or tea.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAULGSW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

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Where to eat russian cuisine Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything.

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).

Soups and salads Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch.

Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka.

Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishes Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands.

Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

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Jamie’s Italian Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should except the usual high standards of cuisine and service: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs and is prepared right before your eyes, while the rustic bread is made according to original recipes and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian, and almost every wine is available by the glass. Lovers of a festive Italian atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors, a large team of servers, and cooks hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVGSW Marcelli’s Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style that reflects the usual images of Italy – jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there – although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make the atmosphere authentic. The pareddown menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the delicious sauces are infused to the bursting point with tomato, chili and basil. Featuring an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another great opportunity to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAGSW Palermo Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermospb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGSW Probka Probka is known for its large, open kitchen, designed so that diners can see how their food is being prepared from any location in the restaurant. The restaurant offers a traditional Italian menu and a carefully chosen wine list with over 100 wines from around the world. The building also houses the Probka Café, with its own kitchen and a separate entrance directly onto the street. The café offers prices significantly lower than those at the restaurant and in addition Italian cuisine it also has some sound Russian favourites.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 911 922 77 27, www.probka. org. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAEGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.

Artsy and Underground Borodabar This hole-in-the-wall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture.

Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good.

QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. Open 17:00 until last guest.

ESW

Cafe Stirka A small, alternative and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good sound system, old sofa’s and small bar serving cold and hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines and sup a beer while you watch them spin - all in a smokefree environment. Terrace seating for the those who need a puff or just want to hang out in the (semi-)fresh air. Laundry services available.QC-2, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PEW

Bars and Pubs Birzha Bar Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally intended to be St. Petersburg’s centre. Today the island is one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar holds wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW

Cafe-Bar Produkty Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00.

PAEW

Chroniki Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Sovietera watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you a great view of the classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. The numerous types of vodka include Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW

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Nightlife Cuba Libre Upon entering this bar, it’s immediately obvious that the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble of spirits behind the bar includes many delicious varieties of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic burgers and platters to share will go down a treat, but it’s really at night when the place comes alive. The heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long you might not let yourself leave until you’ve sampled a good few.

QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 55 26, www.barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. €€.

PAESW Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and accompanied by a delicious range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www. dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW

nightlife - keeping safe

A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks.

Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target.

Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/ guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you.

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Helsinki Bar This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you are Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Library Bar The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might be more of a place to catch some football on the many screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Terminal Bar Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Clubs

Cocktail bars

Avrora Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW

Bar 812 Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW

Dom Byta The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul.

12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www. dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 07:00. PTAESW Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Purga There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river.

Purga-I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Daiquiri Bar Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00.

PASW Graf-in The English meaning of grafin is “carafe”, which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd.

Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW Tsvetochki A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

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What to see

St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection, with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

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What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free.

All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).

Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium.

It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus’. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time.

Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

modern art centres If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works.

Anna Nova Art Gallery QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.

Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.

Marina Gisich Gallery QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.

Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.

S.P.A.S Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru.

ROSPHOTO QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.

CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof.

It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com.

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What to see Saints of Petersburg

Churches

Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious solitude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage sites dedicated to locally interred saints.

St. Ksenia Deep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky ostrov you will find a tiny green church built over the grave of the city’s most revered Saint Ksenia. Widowed at the age of 27, Ksenia gave up all worldly possessions to spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city for her predictions and miraculous and selfless actions.

When she died in 1803 and was buried in the Smolensky cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the locals decided to build a small church over the grave for her and ever since the faithful have come here in the thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal for those who suffer from claustrophobia. St. Ksenia’s feast day is February 06. QChurch of St. Ksenia, B-2, Smolensky cemetery, MPrimorskaya.

St. John of Krohnstadt Also known as the Wonder-Working Father John Sergiev of Krohnstadt, St. John was canonised officially by the Russian Orthodox Church in 1990, some 80 years after his death. Until he was canonised he was already venerated by the many faithful who remembered him as a man of miracles and incredible kindness. He dedicated his life to charitable works and to teaching the local children of the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg and even throughout Soviet times, faithful pilgrims came to leave flowers at the crypt where he is interred.

St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20 and October 19. QIoannovsky Convent, C-1, nab. reky Karpovky 45, MPetrogradskaya.

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St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give wonderful glimpses into Russia’s past.

Armenian church QD-3, Nevsky pr. 40/42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 99 90, www.armenian-church.org. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Admission free.

Chesma Church QUl. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 and 18:00 (except Mon). Admission free.

Sampsonievsky Cathedral QE-1, Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. 41, MVyborgskaya, tel. (+7) 812 294 57 51, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Admission free.

Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Andrew’s Cathedral QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 11, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 34 18, www.hramsp.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Daily services 10:00 and 17:00.

St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.

Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.

Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.

Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see Museums St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone!

Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupovpalace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93.

Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.

Lyrical City With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them.

F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone.

Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum. su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.

Egypt on the Neva Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the city’s only original pair. Situated on Universitetskaya nab. 7 (C-3, MVasileovstrovskaya) you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments rising to the sky’.

Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya) you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the underground’ (formally known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to the politically repressed.

Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Russian political prisoners were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters.

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What to see

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org.

Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces 250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. Pavlovsk QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. Peterhof QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06.

Pushkin QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. Strelna QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better weekend escape than spending some time at one of the many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow!

Konstantinovsky Palace (strelna) Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).

Peterhof Palace and Park Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends.

Oranienbaum Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building, the only place in the park where you can buy food or drinks.

Pavlovsk Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.

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Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg.

By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.

From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.

By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.

From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.

For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.

Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof ).

By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a.

You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224).

By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains.

For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.

Pushkin Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.

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Hermitage

The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not number two”. With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress.

250 years In December 2014 the world-acclaimed museum celebrated its 250th anniversary. The museum’s central building, the socalled Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrelli’s magnificent baroque-style design was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight years later, at the end of Elizabeth’s reign. In the fall of 1763, Empress Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new mistress of the palace and commissioned new architects and designers to transform the palace to suit her preference for neoclassical style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become the incredible museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, the Empress commissioned the construction of the Large and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only that, but she also personally purchased the art collections that form the basis of the Hermitage’s collection today.

The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museum’s official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an agent of Prussia’s King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick II’s commission. However, when the King was unable to finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.

250 years after Catherine’s provident purchase, which includes over 250 works by Flemish and Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its collection into one of the largest in the world.

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The museum today Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum houses so many works, that it is impossible to see everything in one visit. In fact, it’s said that if you were to spend just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see them all!

That being said, it’s best to enter armed with a museum map that will help you strategize and design your personal excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art.

The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can take a break and re-energize.

The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum, just after the ticket offices). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hermitage A treasure trove

Icons at the Hermitage

Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiquity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box.

The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai and Siberia.

The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depictions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian Herodotus.

The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popular folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman Empire.

While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the Diamond room works are also an impressive display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls, which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond, emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal.

The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry, including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver scabbards and decorated with precious stones.

A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish craftsmen in the late 16th century.

The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century.

The museum’s collection of ancient Russian icons allows viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmosphere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from various schools of iconography, each of which displays its own unique characteristics.

The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is on display in the 14th century icon collection “Saint Nikolai”.

The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, “The Last Judgment” and “The Life of Nikolai”. It also features two double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the high quality of their preservation.

Among the icons from Pskov, the icon “The Epiphany” (early 14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the salient features that make the Pskov school unique are easily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images of the “Savior” and “Our Lady” icons (early 14th c.).

The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a substantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of various types of iconography are on display, including examples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies.

Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded icons “The Transfiguration” and “The Birth of Christ”, both created in 16th century.

The collection also includes icons from the “Northern Letters“, which were created in the northern territories. These icons were painted by an array of authors, including members of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collection are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th centuries.

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QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket offices inside the museum and via special terminals at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

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Features hidden museums It is no secret that St. Petersburg is one of the richest cities in the world in terms of culture. Millions of tourists flock from all over the world to Russia’s beating cultural heart each year, seeking the most treasured historical venues the city has to offer. The Kunstkamera Museum, the Russian Museum and of course the State Hermitage are compulsory attractions for almost every tourist, something which is noticeable especially during the high season. Standing outside the Hermitage, having barely escaped the massive crowds marching through its halls, one can only wonder if there might be an easier way of enjoying what Piter has to offer. Well, yes there is, and to make sure you can enjoy as much of St. Petersburg as possible, we have sacrificed some shoe leather in a quest for some of the lesser known museums of the city. These relatively unknown gems are often overshadowed by their bigger brothers, but now the time has come for them to enter the limelight and steal the show! We have found a whole range of museums where you can wander round in peace, far from the madding crowd – all of the Piter, none of the stress!

Fabergé Museum As sure as eggs is eggs, the masterpieces created by the House of Fabergé are inextricably linked to St. Petersburg’s imperial past, so it is perhaps surprising that until recently there was no museum in the city specifically devoted to them. In 2013 all that changed, and now one of the world’s finest collections is on display in the magnificently restored Shuvalov Palace, just a couple of minutes’ walk from Nevsky Prospekt. Pride of place goes, naturally, to nine Easter Eggs crafted for the last two Russian tsars, but the collection includes over 4,000 other items of all shapes, sizes and materials, some created by Fabergé’s contemporaries who, while they may have lacked his flair for PR, were certainly masters in their own right. Notwithstanding the intrinsic and financial value of some of the pieces, they are not hidden away behind velvet ropes, in fact you can get right up to the display cases, and we suspect that the cleaners spend most evenings wiping nose-prints off the glass. The entrance fee includes an excursion, indeed if you visit during the day you will have to join a tour, but don’t be put off if you are an independent sort: the tales to be told by the guides are informative and entertaining, and truly bring the exhibits to life.

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Arctic and Antarctic Museum Dress up warm and dust off your snow boots, you’re going on an expedition! The Russian State Arctic and Antarctica museum was founded in 1930 as part of the Soviet Arctic and Antarctica Institute. Situated in Avraam Melnikov’s Church, it is currently the largest museum dedicated to polar exploration in the world. The first floor of the museum will guide you through various exhibitions related to the icy landscapes of Antarctica. Various scale models of famous Russian atomic ice breakers decorate the rooms, accompanied by official documents, pieces of machinery and emblems. Full-sized replicas of Russian tents, hovels and equipment show how it is possible for researchers to survive under such harsh conditions. The museum also showcases some of the most impressive mounted animals you will ever see, giving you the opportunity to stare a polar bear straight in the eye with impunity. Along the somewhat hidden staircases to the second floor you will find various photos of animals in their natural habitats. The second floor itself is dedicated to the history and present state of Inuit culture. Be sure to visit the central room on the second floor, where you can find various types of equipment from different countries and a map that displays all the research bases spread across the frigid wastes.

Coffee Museum Nearly everyone drinks coffee these days, in fact some of us are barely able to function without their steaming cup of caffeinelaced happiness of a morning. But what do we, the common folk, actually know about coffee, other than that it gives us the will to carry on? Not all that much when you come to think of it, so a trip to the coffee museum is mandatory for both coffee lovers and people who simply like a fun experience. You can only enter the museum by joining a tour, so it is possible you cannot enter immediately after buying your ticket. Luckily, your ticket provides you with a fifty percent discount on all products in the café above the museum, making the wait that much easier. The museum guides speak pretty good English, so you should have no trouble understanding everything that is being said. During the tour you will learn about the history of coffee, different types of beans and various ways of processing, turning you into a true coffee connoisseur.

At the end of the tour you are, naturally, given the opportunity to buy various types of coffee. We recommend the museum’s very own blend, which can only be bought and tasted here! st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features GrandMaket Russia Trying to fit the Russian Federation into one room is madness, surely? The creators of Grand Maket Russia thought so too, so they used two rooms instead. Covering 800-odd square metres, this grand layout of Russia is the second largest of its kind in the world. Over four hundred artists, modellers and computer scientists helped create this all-encompassing, yet surprisingly detailed representation of Russia. To take in all that the museum has to offer will probably take until nightfall, no matter what time of the day you visit. This is because of a nifty day and night system integrated into the exhibit: when the sun sets in the west, the eastern part of Russia will gradually be bathed in the red light of the morning sun. During the night sequences the entire atmosphere of the rooms change: cars and trains turn on their headlights, houses become illuminated and the snowy regions of Russia seem to become even more magical than before. An informative and most of all fun experience for young and old alike. And don’t forget to try some of the Russian cuisine in the restaurant downstairs afterwards.

State Memorial Museum of Leningrad Defence and Siege One of the darkest periods in Russian history was undoubtedly the siege of Leningrad. A trip to the State Memorial Museum of Leningrad Defence and Siege allows you to take a peek into history, and to gain a better understanding of just how desperate the situation was in these 900 dark days. The displayed food rations, munitions and propaganda posters may seem a bit morbid to those not interested in war history, but they are all of significant historical value. The museum’s somewhat gloomy halls amplify the uneasy feeling you get when walking past a small silver scale with bullets; bullets that have actually been extracted from the body of a Russian soldier. Even though most of the writings near the exhibits are in Russian, the museum has translated some of the more important information to English as well. We still recommend an audio guide to anyone who is unable to read Russian though, since it will definitely add value to your visit. Also keep in mind that the museum is still clinging on to the old ‘tourist prices’, so do not be surprised when you must pay a little bit more than Russians do.

Vodokanal Museum

Bread Museum

St. Petersburg’s Vodokanal complex comprises several buildings that are all connected by one of our planet’s most important elements: water. After all, with more than half of our planet is covered in water, its significance in our lives is no surprise. How mankind has managed to harness and control this element is a whole different story though. The main exhibition is situated in an old water tower in the centre of the complex. Scale models of prominent historical waterworks are the highlights of the first floor, ranging from the hanging gardens of Babylon to ancient Greece. Scaling the various floors of the tower will give you new insights regarding the development of sewerage systems, if you like that kind of thing. The museum also manages to take the term ‘toilet humour’ to a new level by showcasing various types of toilet bowls. It should be noted that the water tower also served the people of St. Petersburg during times of war, so the historical value of the building alone could be a reason to, erm, pay it a visit. Be sure to ask the cashier for some English information, as the exhibits themselves are mostly explained in Russian. The other two buildings of the complex offer a range of multimedia tours, although sadly these are only available in Russian.

A museum dedicated to bread sounds rather unusual, and in some ways it is. The bread museum in St. Petersburg is the only one of its kind in Russia and one of just thirteen in the world.

This unique museum showcases the importance of bread throughout history, something that many people have nowadays forgotten. Bread was not simply a snack: it was in many ways a symbol of harmony between humans and nature. In Russia particularly, bread was considered as something valuable, if not a necessity of life. Rituals practised in old Russia often included bread and it was heralded as a sign of hospitality. The museum focuses on the role of bread in St. Petersburg, showing a wide range of baked products commonly prepared by bakers and confectioners in the nineteenth century. In more recent history, the importance of bread is magnified in a small corner showing the rations during the time of World War II and the siege of Leningrad. This will certainly make you feel lucky the next time you sink your teeth into a sandwich. The bread museum is relatively small, so it is the perfect venue to visit if you have some spare time and do not feel like loafing around. Be sure to ask for English information at the cash register, since the exhibition itself barely has any.

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February - March 2015

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Features Krassin Icebreaker Originally named the Svyatogor, the Krassin has certainly left a long history in her wake. Built in Newcastle upon Tyne in England and launched in 1916, the icebreaker was the most powerful vessel of its type in the world right up to the advent of the nuclear-powered era in the 1950s. The Krassin was primarily deployed for pathfinding, exploration and rescue missions, but also served as a warship during World War II. At the end of hostilities, she was disarmed and returned to peacetime duties, and crunched through her last icefloe in 1998. Since then, the Krassin has bobbed contentedly at anchor on the banks of the Neva, insofar as anything that weighs 10,000 tonnes can be said to “bob”. The museum does not allow single visitors, so you will need to wait for one of the tours. These are conducted every fifteen minutes, so waiting isn’t really an issue. We must warn you that the Krassin is not as adapted to tourists as some other museums in St. Petersburg: tours are only given in Russian, and information in English is, for now, scarce. If you have any friends or family who understand and speak Russian, take them with you. In the worst case scenario you may not understand anything your guide explains, but just being on board is an unforgettable experience in itself.

Sigmund Freud’s Dream Museum Close your eyes and wander off into a world of dreams. That is what you are supposed to do when passing through the door of the museum of Sigmund Freud’s dreams. Do not keep them closed for too long though, or you might bump into something. With his unorthodox theories about dreams and neurology, Sigmund Freud is considered to be the father of psychoanalysis. In Freud’s theories dreams were described as wish-fulfilments, and they were linked to several aspects and recurring themes. The museum sets out to create a physical manifestation of Freud’s dreams and theories. In the first of the two rooms you will find information about Freud himself and drawings of the dreams he described. The second room is a long hallway with glass walls on each side and a bright screen at the end. Behind the walls are many objects which seem to have no relation to one another. Or do they?

It is up to you to find out. Using various methods it is possible to alter the objects and retrieve messages hidden within them. The message that you retrieve from them, however, depends on your own state of mind and vision.

Hygiene Museum Sorry to be blunt, but do you wash yourself thoroughly every day? If not, a visit to St. Petersburg’s Hygiene Museum will remedy that for you. Put on your shoe covers, ascend the large staircase and prepare to make a clean break. Explanations about the origins of hygiene and the danger of exposure to some types of animals may give the impression that the museum is an innocent showcase for kids, but don’t let yourself be 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

misled, this is not the case. Although the museum is undobtedly very informative for children, there is a lot to be learned for adults as well. The museum shifts its focus from hygiene to health as you walk along its halls, and the smokers and drinkers among you may want to quit after seeing a pair of charred lungs in a jar, or a liver bleached by the effects of alcohol.

The 16+ hall takes a turn for the worse, with unborn fetuses preserved in jars. A nice addition to the museum is a display featuring one of Pavlov’s original dogs. After your visit you may well want to head home and rinse yourself properly, but you will probably be too busy answering your kids’ questions about reproduction. Still, it’s all good clean fun.

Arctic and Antarctic Museum QE-3, Ul. Marata 24A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month.

Admission 70 - 230Rbl. Krassin Icebreaker QB-3, Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta 47 (23-ya liniya), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 35 47, www. krassin.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. Bread Museum QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 73, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 11 10. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 100Rbl. Coffee museum QE-2, Voskresenskaya nab. 14, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 87 36, www.mcof.ru. Open 11:00 20:00. Admission 250Rbl. Show-tasting 600 - 700Rbl. Fabergé Museum QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 11 44, www.fabergemuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00 (excursions only), 18:00 - 20:45 (non-excursion).

Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Sigmund Freud’s Dream Museum QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 18A, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 22 90, www.freud.ru. Open Tue, Sat, Sun 12:00 17:00. Admission 150Rbl. Grandmaket Russia QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400 - 450Rbl. Audioguide 150Rbl + 500Rbl deposit.

Museum of Hygiene QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 89 08, www.gcmp.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:30. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Admission 80Rbl. State Memorial Museum of Leningrad Defence and Siege QE-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 17:00, Wed 12:30 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 300Rbl. Vodokanal Museum QF-2, Shpalernaya ul. 56, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 43 75, www.vodokanal-museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 50 - 200Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pskov

One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least well known cities: welcome to Pskov!

Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border, Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres.

The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year 903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church.

In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial value, Pskov was also one of the country’s most important fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone walls, unique in contemporary Europe.

Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky (c. 1120 – 1263).

More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to this historical moment can still be found there today.

Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s extraordinary history.

Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region.

If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to explore.

Hotel Rizhskaya QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya. ru. 265 rooms.

Old Estate Hotel & Spa QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45, www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.

Oktyabrskaya Hotel QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.

Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.

Hotel 903 QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www. pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.

Hotel Golden Embankment QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78 77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.

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February - March 2015

Where to stay No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation, whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.

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Pskov Getting There Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburg’s Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stopping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40.

You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal (metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05.

Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia, so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St. Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be approximately 1 hour.

Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When traveling with one of these companies, be sure to reserve your tickets beforehand.

Autograf minibus Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30, 20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets 550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru.

Avtovizit minibus Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets 500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40, www.avtovizit.com.

Avtofavorit bus Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at 17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Moskovskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl). www.napiter.ru.

Getting around Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so you should not have any trouble finding your way around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive, and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station can be found at the same place in the south-eastern part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32, www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00.

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What to see Pskov city walls The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which give a clear image of just how strong this city once was.

It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed with caution when walking directly beside a wall when hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!

Pskov State Museum The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings, now united under one name. The central building of the museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and its region. Directly attached to the main building are the famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman who once resided here. In these chambers you will find various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection.

Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www. museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Monuments The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts.

Some of the most interesting monuments can be found near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most famous poet. Another monument of significance is the monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill (Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story!

Parks Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk, or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park (Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city, and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any troubles. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pskov outside PSKOV Old Izborsk When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides (either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pechory This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at any point during its existence. The monastery currently consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00, 13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pushkin Hills Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe 19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.

Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.

Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to find a guide who can help you get there and show you the way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful the hills are, you do not want to get lost. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Churches It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than 40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those interested in old Russian architecture and religion.

Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves you having to ask at every church you enter.

Trinity Cathedral Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or wooden spiked maces. To each his own!

Mirozhsky Monastery As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll through its garden is already a good enough reason to do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy a moment of rest, and the site has been included on the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.

QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www. mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.

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Pskov Where to eat You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants and cafes in Pskov especially for you!

Pozharka Tavern The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous, allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire, but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.

QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €.

Dvor Podznoeva Halls The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant, waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€.

Double Coffee With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.

From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel. (+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 – 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €.

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Nightlife Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a city with many students, who need to unwind after a long week of studying hard. What better way to do that than to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs, each with its own face and style. If you like to show your moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places where you can boogey down all night long. When local Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places where you can party as much as you like.

TIR Club Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that truly has its own identity. The underground style of the bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music events, which are held near the stage in the back of the club. During events you will have to pay admission to enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54, www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 16:00 until last guest. €.

Super Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www. superpskov.ru. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. belmond Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg QĐĄ-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.

183 rooms.

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms.

Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.

197 rooms.

Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms.

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.

Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.

W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

U menya zabronirovan nomer – I have a reservation

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Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Maria Semenova, concierge at the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe.

Please tell us something about yourself.

My name is Maria Semenova. I was born in Kurgan, a provincial city in Siberia, and when I was 17 I decided to return to my roots in St. Petersburg. My grandmother was born here, and she was such an inspiration for me that I ended up falling in love with St. Petersburg at a very early age. From the very first day I arrived until now I cannot stop marvelling at this place, so my work here as a concierge is not so much a career choice, more a fulfilment of destiny!

Can you tell us something about the Grand Hotel Europe? What makes it special? What do you like best about your work here? I have been working as concierge here for almost 7 years, so I can honestly say that the Grand Hotel Europe is my second home, my Alma Mater. I meet so many interesting people here, learn new things about everything – about my work, about life, about people in general. The Grand Hotel Europe is the oldest 5-star hotel in Russia with a rich and varied history, and it is so great to be the part of it.

What can you tell us about your favourite places in St. Petersburg? Oh, there are so many places I like in St. Petersburg! But most of all I like to spend my free evenings at the theatre, whether it be to see a play, an opera or a ballet. This season I plan to see the Great Gatsby ballet at the Mariinsky, starring my favourite ballet dancer Denis Matvienko, Shakespeare’s Love’s Labour’s Lost at the Maly Dramatichesky theatre, then there are the premieres of the Barber of Seville at the Mikhailovsky, and Chernyshevsky’s What is to be Done? at the Bolshoi Dramatichesky. So much to see!

What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What is a must-visit in St. Petersburg during the winter? In the winter when everything is covered with a blanket of snow, the most beautiful places are really to be found outside the city – gorgeous suburbs like Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Alexandria and Gatchina. You can stroll along the snow-covered paths or take a ride in a horse-drawn troika. Entrance to parks in winter is free, and afterwards you can visit the palaces without having to queue for hours like you do in the summer.

54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms.

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.

214 rooms.

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms.

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.

Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.

Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms.

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms.

Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.

173 rooms .

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.

3 Stars AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.

Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Gifts and Souvenirs Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A La Petite Opera Gallery QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. net. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian designer brands as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr.

30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www. galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

DLT Department store

Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­ teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Built in 1909 the building's façade mixes modernist and art nouveau influences, popular at the turn of century. Inside, however, the influences are much more cutting-edge. Five floors of designer shopping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who need to take a break and for the discerning VIP shopper personal stylist services are also available.

QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW February - March 2015

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Shopping

Russian Souvenirs For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country, whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following: Platok A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a coat.

56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.

Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops all over the city.

Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pickled Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Lifestyle Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com.

English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru.

International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily. internations Qwww.internations.org.

Cultural Centres British Book Centre QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00.

Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign Literature Library QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. Goethe Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Japan Center QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.Closed Sat, Sun.

THANN Sanctuary Spa Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over 25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces a range of unique skincare products using natural ingredients, formulated from botanicals derived combining the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological science. The core ingredient in THANN’s wide range of products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010, encapsulates the company’s holistic approach, helping you to re-discover your inner physical and mental wellness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A highlight among the wide range of treatments is the THANN Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage, using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr.

114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www. thann-spa.ru. A

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February - March 2015

HEALTH AND beauty Royal Thai Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience.

Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assortiment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aroma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit. After one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe.

Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available.

QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. A

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Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience On February 19th, the Russian Hospitality Awards ceremony takes place at Moscow’s Lotte Hotel, with a total of 20 awards up for grabs in categories ranging from Best Eco Hotel to Best Hotel Restaurant. We got jury member David Jenkins, Executive Vice President Russia/CIS of JLL’s Hotels and Hospitality group, to spare us a few minutes and share his thoughts on the hospitality sector in St. Petersburg and Russia as a whole.

David, you’ve been involved in the hotel market in Russia since the mid-90s. If you had to pick 3 standout tendencies over that period, what would they be? That’s a good question, I would better say in terms of stand-out tendencies, for me, in the hotel market in Russia it could be: • The development of Sochi. I had first visited Sochi 8 or 9 years ago and saw simply a place that was run down but brimming with potential. What has been achieved there is amazing – despite the well documented oversupply and various other commercial issues – it has been a fantastic social project;

What more do you think could be done to reduce the notorious impact of seasonality in St. Petersburg, apart from changing the city’s latitude, obviously? Domestic tourism is the key and we have started to see this increase in 2014 as many locals decided not to travel abroad due to the ruble crash. This domestic tourism can be year-round – especially as people take advantage of ‘off-season’ prices. In addition with the Expo Forum now open, St. Petersburg needs to present itself as a global incentive city – it is a great facility. This can help drive business through the year – again for domestic events as well as international events. If or when the visa system is simplified then the city can also look to attract more European weekend break visitors. Finally, there can and will be constant growth of corporate and governmental business which does not depend on seasonality.

The Russian hospitality sector has posted significant, if not always steady, growth over the past 10 years or so. Do you expect the curve to level off, or will demand and supply continue to rise at more or less the same rate? We tend to see peaks and troughs here – a few years of good growth then a crisis or sudden boost in supply with a sharp drop. It is important for new hotels to open but when we see too many new hotels arriving at once, in the same segment then it does impact adversely the market – especially so in the regions.

• Local chains developing / Branded Hotels in Regions – Azimut (who are now also present in Europe), Marins Group and AMAKS amongst others. Taking older Sovietera hotels and upgrading them to breathe new life into old assets across the country – offering a better quality of accommodation still at reasonable prices for the mass market. This has improved travelling for many corporate guests – myself included! The last 5-7 years has seen a significant number of branded hotels opening outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg – over the next 10 years many more will open too. This also highly improves the travelling experience and helps boost the image of the regions.

How does the hotel sector in Moscow and St. Petersburg differ from the Russian regions? I am very concerned about oversupply in the regions. I think Moscow will recover a bit next year, 2015 will be tough. St. Petersburg will continue to benefit from more internal tourism but the regions although not suffering now from any real crisis will suffer as new supply opens. For now, since business in the regions is mostly local, hotels have not suffered too badly. The issue is the World Cup – and how that will inspire people to build too many new hotels in cities that cannot support so many new hotels – what happens afterwards? The regions are very price sensitive so hotels can only get so much average rate.

• Moscow - city expanding outwards. When I started in 1995 I worked in the Palace Hotel at Belorusskaya. It seemed like it was the MKAD! Over the years as the prime city centre expanded outwards we have seen new micro areas develop – around the Aeroexpress at Belorusskaya, Paveleteskaya and Kievskaya (all 3 areas are now highly desired hotel zones), in Moscow City, at the airports themselves and so on.

Where do you prefer to stay, if you have the choice?

Global brand, or local gem? It really depends for me. With business trips here in Russia I will always hope for a brand if there is one – just for peace of mind, a decent breakfast and a good night sleep! All crucial when you travel frequently. For pleasure I will try to find some local hotels with local character especially if it’s for a weekend – in the right location.

If you would like your expat or business group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.spb@inyourpocket.com 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Expat & Lifestyle Religious Services Buddhist Temple QPrimorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911 224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Wed. Catholic Church of St. Catherine QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/.

Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.

Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.

clinics American Medical Clinic and Hospital QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs.

Euromed Medical Center QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs.

Scandinavia clinic QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

International Schools German School QB-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) QF-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mandarina Day (Preschool Child Development Center) QF-3, Nevsky pr. 147A, MPl. Al. Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 924 24 98, www.mandarinaday.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

The International Pre-School QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: Curiosity killed the cat Being curious can get you into trouble. We often tell people this in an attempt to warn someone not to ask too many questions about a certain topic, or to stop prying into the affairs of somebody else. However, Russians have a very different way of portraying the same meaning. “Lyubopytnoi Varvare na bazare nos otorvali”. The translation of this peculiar turn of phrase is ‘Nosy Barbara had her nose torn off at the market’, referring to the way in which being intrusive and nosy will only result in an unpleasant situation for you. In other words, as the proverb goes in English, ‘curiosity killed the cat’.

Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language schools. They have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting.

There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency.

They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group.

The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students.

QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. February - March 2015

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E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3 B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2 E-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3 D-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

С-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. – Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. – Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. – Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. – Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. – Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. – Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. – Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. – Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. – Malaya

62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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February - March 2015

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Moscow

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney.

Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell.

Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State Historical Museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.

GUM QRed Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) QRed Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. State Historical Museum QRed Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.

Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl.

Don’t forget to pick up a free copy of Moscow In Your Pocket in your hotel!

64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest.

Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate.

A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin.

Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin.

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Annunciation Cathedral This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.

The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.

Church of the Deposition of the Robes Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.

Cathedral of the Assumption The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475

by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.

Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).

Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.

Tretyakov Gallery QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:38 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

February - March 2015

65

Moscow hotels

Aeroexpress Trains All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all!

Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.

Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view train timetables. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.

If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress.

The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QKalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QUl. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). hhhhh Hotel National QMokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl). hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). hhhhh Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QTverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). hhhhh Metropol QTeatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 9,440Rbl). hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.com.

342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). hhhhh AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). hhhh Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). hhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Q1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhh Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). hhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). hhh Comrade Hostel QUl. Maroseyka 11, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. (Prices start from 600Rbl). iVan Hostel QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. (Prices start from 700Rbl). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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