Moscow In Your Pocket June-July 2013 by Russia In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

MOSCOW June - July 2013

Free City Bus Tours

Cruise the main sights for free

Summer Highlights

16+ June - July 2013 N o27 moscow.inyourpocket.com

Ice cream, famous Gorky Park and more

Contents Nightlife

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

A word from our editor

News

5 6 8

Features Famous Gorky Park Ice Cream all year round

17 19

Hotels

A fine selection of places to spend the night

Restaurants

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Business directory

Expat and Lifestyle

NEW: Expat Experience

Summer festivals, concerts and sports

Summer Terraces and roofs with a view

36 42

Banks, accountants and lawyers

Some useful information

Culture and Events

The Kremlin & Red Square Literary Moscow What to buy and where

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in the city

Basics and Language

Bars, pubs and clubs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how to stay out till 6 am

Sightseeing

Contents Foreword

Getting around Transport, tickets and more Maps

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Russia

56 57 59 62 64 66

St. Petersburg Peterhof Veliky Novgorod Kazan Nizhny Novgorod

June - July 2013

News

Foreword Even if you’ve only just arrived in Moscow, you’ll be able to feel what a long winter it’s been from the buzz in the air. A couple of months ago pavements, benches and parks were simply piles of snow: then in a few days the streets flooded with muddy meltwater and a whole new and unexpected landscape appeared from under the snowdrifts. When talking to friends outside Russia I often hear their surprise that Russia even has a summer - the word Moscow conjures up images of babushkas in fur coats struggling along snowy streets in a fierce blizzard. But for me Moscow will always be a summer city, and arriving for the first time at five in the morning on the Aeroexpress, dizzy from lack of sleep and speeding past tiny colourful wooden houses and towering blocks of flats, it would have been cold-hearted to do anything but fall instantly in love with it. One part of Moscow that certainly doesn’t seem to fit the stereotypes foreigners give the city is Gorky Park, which since its 2011 remodelling is definitely one-of-a-kind in the country and full to bursting with things to do, sit on, eat and drink. We could happily spend pretty much every day there so we’ve highlighted it in a feature. And if like us you’re dedicated to making the most of the good weather, our feature on summer terraces should come in handy, plus we’ve been working extra hard sampling the best ice cream in Moscow to bring you our all-singing all-dancing feature on it. So whether you’re planning on whiling away your time in the capital with sparkling cocktails on the veranda, beer and shashlik in the park, art exhibitions and open-air concerts or watching the summer sun rise over St Basil’s (recommended!), we hope our guide will help you to discover your own Moscow. Rhiannon Fuller, Russia In Your Pocket

Cover story On our cover page we celebrate the start of a new free coach tour that appeared in town. Free Moscow Bus Tours will introduce you to beautiful Moscow (you will see the opulent Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, here on the cover as well) with English-speaking guides. While you relax and listen to many stories about Moscow’s highlights, and perhaps enjoy a free cup of coffee or Russian “kvass”, you can share your experience online using the wifi available on the bus! That sounds like a good deal to us.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Moscow In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. Moscow office Russia, 101000, Moscow Krivokolenny Pereulok 12/2 tel: +7 (499) 962 80 50 russia@inyourpocket.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor jerke@inyourpocket.com

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It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

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Editor’s note

Editor Elizaveta Bolshanina editor.mos@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research Elizaveta Bolshanina research.mos@inyourpocket.com PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com Contributor Andy Potts, Rhiannon Fuller, Natasha Douglas

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. The publisher does not bear responsibility for the accuracy of advertising information.

Commercial department Sales Managers Natalia Murgo natalya@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2013. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Free City Bus Tours

Visitors to Kazan can now enjoy an easier journey from airport to city thanks to the opening of an Aeroexpress rail link. The service has been introduced ahead of this summer’s Universiade festival of student sports in the Tatar capital, and enables visitors to fly in and out of town on modern “Lastochka” rolling stock. Kazan is the fourth Russian city to open an Aeroexpress route. In 2008 the first lines appeared in Moscow, and 2012 saw similar services in Sochi and Vladivostok in anticipation of the Olympics and the APAC summit. St. Petersburg is the next in line for a rail-air connection, as part of the on-going renovation of the Northern Capital’s Pulkovo airport. See more www. aeroexpress.ru.

Mосква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114. Заказ No 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No27. 01.06.2013

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Russia Day On 12 June 1990 the Russian parliament formally declared its sovereignty finally putting the last nail in the coffin of the Soviet Union. 12 June was declared a national holiday by the first Russian president Boris Yeltsin in 1994, although unlike in other former communist countries the holiday is not really celebrated as an ‘independence day’ as such and is more commonly referred to as ‘Russia Day’. Most Russians just take this as a good chance to have a day off work and wander around town with their Russian flags, dropping in on the various concerts and festivals.

Getting to grips with Moscow can be a daunting experience for a first-time visitor, especially one who finds it tricky to read the Cyrillic alphabet. So, for a quick and painless introduction into the city’s key sights, why not sit back and let a free coach tour whet your appetite for life in the Russian capital? That’s exactly what’s on offer with Free Moscow Bus Tours (www.freemoscowbus.com). Starting in May of this year they’ve put on regular trips around the city center, whisking guests to key points of interest and showing them some of the city’s highlights with an English-speaking guide. It won’t stretch to getting you inside all of the places on the itinerary, many of which are museums with additional admission charges, but it will give newcomers a good introduction to what can sometimes feel like an overwhelming metropolis.

Lastochka flies to Nizhny Novgorod Russian Railways is adding to its fleet with a new highspeed service linking Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod. The Lastochka (Swallow) service came into service in May, joining the existing Sapsan (Falcon) services which link the two cities in about four hours. Services run once a day in each direction, leaving Moscow at 14:15 and reaching the Volga city four hours later, then returning at 19:10 and terminating at Kursk Railway Station at 23:15. There are stops at the Golden Ring city of Vladimir and also Dzerzhinsk and Kovrov, and the full fare is 850 rubles one way. In the coming months there are plans to send Lastochka trains – described as “the commuter trains of the future” to the cities of Kazan and Sochi where they are expected to serve the local airports. See more www.rzd.ru.

Moscow Backpackers Paradise? Bakery Paul Expands The world-famous bakery chain PAUL is set to open one more location in Moscow in June at Ul. Sadovnicheskaya 82. This is the fifth café in a row. PAUL was founded in France in 1889 and since last year PAUL has been working with the holding GinzaProject in Russia to assist with its expansion. All Moscow PAUL locations feature more than 35 kinds of freshly-baked bread, croissants, torts, and pies. Each location’s interiors is inspired by French style and make a great place to have a sandwich or coffee. See more www. ginzaproject.ru.

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The European Backpacker Index has disproved the myth that Moscow is an expensive city for a city break. Based not only on the cost of accommodation, but also other factors including public transport, admission to tourist attractions and a three course meal, the index, created by the international web-portal PriceOfTravel.com, is meant to be representative of the real costs of a city break. Moscow is renowned for being an expensive city, but in the new rating it has beaten many of the supposedly ‘cheap’ places to visit, including Tallinn, Lisbon, Berlin and Barcelona. Out of 47 countries, Moscow and St Petersburg placed 15th and 14th respectively. We’re just hoping people will cotton on: who wants to miss out on such great places to visit? See more www.priceoftravel.com.

June - July 2013

Basics and language Aeroexpress Airport Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 110Rbl for children between five and seven years of age. Children under the age of five travel for free. Business class tickets cost 900Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is 360Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. The first train departs at 05:00, with the last one departing at 00:30. Please note that depending on the time of day, trains run at thirty minute or one hour intervals. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

Basics and language

Alcohol

Alphabet

The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendelev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from; Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia. Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops between 23:00 and 08:00.

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Foreigner prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are still required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.

Be on guard! Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Climate In June - July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden storms and temperature drops at night mean that it’s best to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan.

Internet Access and Mobile Phones Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. In most places you will need to ask for a password (parol) to logon. Mobile phones. You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia. If you are staying in a hotel the hotel will usually register you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service is complicated a small fee may apply. Many tourist agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, ranging from paying a fine, to missing your flight.

Language schools Liden and Denz Language Centre A-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, w w w.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of great social activities outside of lessons, although individual classes are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Ruslingua Language Center C-5, 1-y Spasonalivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th floor), MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. This excellent language school has individual and group courses for expats, visitors and revision courses for university students and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher to the local market to practice your language in real life situations. They also offer a special one day course on how to talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Pocket dictionary: Vypusknik School’s out for the summer! Ura shout all the school students as the posledniy zvonok (last bell) rings and they charge out onto the streets to party and celebrate. But for vypuskniks (final year graduates) it’s not over yet – there’s still the exams to come. By the end of June the vypuskniks have usually finished their exams and will receive their attestate (leaving certificates).

Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn the word переход! It means perekhod in Russian or underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

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adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat

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dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok

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pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi

Useful Phrases Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Hello Zdrastvuite Goodbye Dasvidaniya Thank you Spasibo Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Please Pazhalusta I don't understand Ya ne panimayu I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Russian pa-russky Do you speak Vy gavaritye paEnglish? anglisky? Help! Pomogitye! Go away! Ostavte menya!

Crossing the road

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Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю порусски Вы говорите поанглийски? Помогите! Оставьте меня!

June - July 2013

culture & events While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

Concert Halls 16 Tons (16T) A-2, Ul. Presnensky Val 6, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru.

Arena Moscow (AM) Leninsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru.

B2 Club (B2) B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMaya-

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. Crocus City Hall (CCH) MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. DOM Cultural Centre (DCC) D-4, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 24, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 72 36, dom.com.ru.

Culture & events

June events

11.06 Tuesday

08.06 Saturday

Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.blondie.net. Debbie Harry was undoubtedly one of the loveliest stars of the first wave of punk, and Blondie’s immaculate music-making has deservedly maintained its place among the classics to this day. With short, punchy, energetic tracks which managed to distill the best of 70s disco and realign it with the edgier sentiments of the in-yer-face attitude of the end of the decade, the band created a string of timeless classics. Intermittently reforming - most successfully in the early 2000s with “Maria” - and sometimes embarking on solo projects of varying effectiveness, the band has remained within public consciousness. This summer sees another international tour, and a reminder of all the old hits. Q Tickets 1,500 - 25,000Rbl.

20:00 Blondie

19:00 Lana Del Rey

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lanadelrey.com. Lana Del Ray makes her long-awaited Russian debut, having cemented her reputation as one of the world’s emerging divas. Her cinematic music could easily find a home on the soundtrack to any quirky bit of film noir, while her imperious stage presence has seen her pick up plaudits for a string of smash hit festival shows all over Europe. Her distinctive vocals carry echoes of the likes of Amy Winehouse or even Nancy Sinatra, while she has the delivery and finesse to set any torch song ablaze; not surprising, then, that she’s already picked up a clutch of awards following the triumphant release of “Born to Die” last year. Q Tickets 2,000 - 40,000Rbl.

18.06 Tuesday - 13.09 Friday

Russian National Dance Show Kostroma

International House of Music - Chamber Hall (IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) E-5,

Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. Izvestiya Hall (IH) B-2, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, MPushkinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 364 05 05, www.izvestia-hall.ru Live Music Hall (LMH) Ul. Dubosekovskaya 4a/1, MVoikovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 785 17 60, www.cdk.ru Moscow Hall (MH) B-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.moscowhall. com Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall (PGH) B-3, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-3, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH) B-1, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.meloman.ru. SK Olimpiysky (SKO) C-1, Olimpiysky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium-Live (SL) Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace (SKP) C-3, The Kremlin, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, M. Biblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www.kremlinpalace.org

14.06 Friday

20:00 Eddie Izzard

10.06 Monday

20:00 Whitesnake

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.whitesnake.com. They’re back - and this time they have unfinished business. Or so warns Whitesnake vocalist David Coverdale as his legendary rockers launch a welcome extension to their 2011 World Tour. Inspired by the joy of touring “Forevermore” - and the huge success of that tour - the band is returning to the stage in 2013 to rework some old favorites and introduce fans to the highlights of a new double CD set for release later this year. And Coverdale promises that despite a year away the veteran band - which was formed way back in 1977 from the wreckage of Deep Purple - is just as ready to rock as it ever was. Q Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.eddieizzard.com. Stand-up comedy is notoriously hard to translate across national boundaries, but Britain’s Eddie Izzard has already demonstrated his ability to win over audiences throughout Europe. Admittedly, being fluent in French has helped along the way, but given the enduring popularity of British comedy - from Monty Python to Channel 4’s edgier offerings - he has a solid fanbase here in Russia. Don’t forget, after all, that many Russians claimed they learned their English by deciphering Beatles lyrics: for a new generation the biting observations of Izzard might be all they need to master a foreign tongue. Meanwhile, for the city’s English-speaking population - of all background’s - the gig is a welcome chance to catch a top comic in person. Q Tickets 1,000 - 7,000Rbl.

Theatres

Cosmos Hotel Concert Hall, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 10 00, www.nationalrussianshow. ru. This summer sees an all-new show from this worldrenowned troupe, and once again it’s set to be a beautiful evocation of ancient Russian culture. Founded in 2001 on the banks of the Volga, “Kostroma” has lived and breathed the traditions of this land - and picked up rave reviews from critics at home and abroad in the process. The 2013 edition is bigger and brighter than ever, with 50 performers tackling 15 scenes, and donning more than 600 costumes as they flit between 10 tons of stage sets. It’s a lavish event, and one which unites centuries of musical and dramatic traditions as it recounts some of the legendary tales of Russia and takes audiences on a whistle-stop tour from the Arctic north to the southern Steppes, the peaks of the Caucasus and the depths of Siberia. Historically, the scope is no less ambitious, charting Russia’s transformations from the arrival of the Orthodox Church, through the Tsarist era and into Soviet times. Q Tickets 600 - 1,600Rbl.

17.06 Monday

20:00 Il Divo

Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatral-

naya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon Opera (HO) B-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 48 59, www.maly.ru. Stanislavsky Music Theatre (SMT) C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, www.stanislavskymusic.ru.

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ildivo.com. With a blend of good looks and great voices, the four tenors who make up Il Divo have spent the past decade thrilling audiences with a blend of pop and classical music. Previous gigs have included the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2006 FIFA World Cup, the inauguration of President Obama and the Diamond Jubilee of Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II - not to mention a series of tours which have criss-crossed the continents. This time it’s a Greatest Hits compilation, including a clutch of new songs, which will maintain the group’s traditions as masters of the romantic melody - whether that’s 60s pop, Hollywood ballad or classical aria. Q Tickets 4,000 - 10,000Rbl.

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Russian National Show

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June - July 2013

culture & events The Sounds of Summer The seasonal shift is complete, and Moscow – almost overnight – has shed its wintry skin of grey mounds of snow and transformed into a brief oasis of green. And as pale faces emerge from their cozy bolt-holes, the city’s social life also shifts outdoors. Yes, it’s festival season again, and this year sees the return of several old favorites like the Afisha Picnic and Usadba Jazz, as well as a new kid on the block at Park Live. From top Russian acts to touring stars, there’s plenty of fun under this year’s sun.

07.06 Friday - 09.06 Sunday

Culture & events 18.06 Tuesday

21.06 Friday

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.blackmoresnight.com. Billed as “the most important folk band in the world”, Blackmore’s Night takes audiences on a musical tour of the Middle Ages. Guided by legendary guitarist Richie Blackmore (of Deep Purple fame), and inspired by his enduring fascination with early music, it swaps raucous power chords for the gentle strumming of the lute and songs of a simpler, perhaps more noble age. The concert presents two retrospectives - a live DVD and a collectors’ edition of the group’s earliest releases - ensuring plenty of old favorites on the set list. Audiences are encouraged to don medieval garb for the event. Q Tickets 1,300 - 15,000Rbl.

SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr. 16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.greenday.com. It’s been a long wait - so long that a couple of years ago Russia’s Green Day fan club was posting up a YouTube plea to persuade their idols to head out East - but finally the band is coming to Moscow. The on-going tour in support of ¡Uno! ¡Dos! ¡Tre! sees the group bring its latest work, along with the hits which have kept its fanbase growing since it formed in 1986. Fellow rockers All Time Low, one of America’s fastest-growing bands, provide the support at a show which promises to be one of the biggest in Moscow this year. Q Tickets 1,500 - 5,000Rbl.

20:00 Blackmore’s Night

19:00 Green Day

17:00 Dikaya Myata

Etnomir, Kaluzhskaya Obl, derevnya Petrovo, tel. (+7) 495 627 51 90, www.mintmusic.ru. It started on a single stage in a remote Moscow park, with a handful of folk-inflected enthusiasts putting on a free show. Now, within five years, Dikaya Myata (the name means wild mint) has transformed itself into a major festival with an international accent. Sinead O’Connor is among this year’s headliners, along with Russian rock legends Akvarium - a famous band reportedly close to lowering the curtain on its live career. But that alternative, slightly hippyish vibe lives on: folk-punks Iva Nova remain from the original line-up and a whole raft of left-field takes on world music can be heard at this ethno-inflected cultural complex in the glorious countryside. Q Tickets 750 - 6,000Rbl.

12.06 Wednesday

14:00 Maxidrom

Tushino Aerodrome, Volokolamskoe shosse, MTushinskaya, www.maximum.ru. June 12th is one of those welcome Russian state holidays which gives everyone a day off, even if nobody is quite sure why. But for the city’s music lovers, the best way to celebrate is to head to Tushino - legendary venue of some of the great rock festivals of the perestroika era and the early 90s - for the Maxidrom event. The format is simple: invite a clutch of top bands, give them a big stage, and rock out. This year’s headliner is 30 Seconds to Mars, back in Moscow after a two year break and touting a brand new album. Finnish rockers HIM are also on the bill, arriving on the back of a new album of their own. Q Tickets 2,500 - 25,000Rbl.

15.06 Saturday - 16.06 Sunday

Usadba Jazz Festival

Arkhangelskoe, Ilyinskoe shosse, 5km., www. usadba-jazz.ru/ru/moskva. Usadba Jazz is Russia’s largest open-air jazz festival and celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. More than 25.000 people visit the event at Archangelskoe each year. The festival is centred around 5 stages, dedicated to jazz and world music. ‘Parter’ stage for the big names, ‘Aristocrat’ dedicated to jazz & classical instruments, ‘Kapriz’ is for Rock & Roll and Rockabilly, ‘Berek’ for DJ’s and electronic music and ‘Jazz Club’ for young talent and jam sessions. This year there is a Dutch Focus with performances by Mdungu (16 June, ‘Parter’), Jungle By Night 15 June, ‘Kapriz’) and Parne Gadje (15 June, ‘Kapriz’). On 14 June one of the most popular clubs in Moscow, ‘Sixteen Tons Club’, is organizing a special Dutch Focus evening, as a warm up to the festival. That evening the Dutch bands and DJ’s will perform. Q Tickets 900 - 7,000Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket

The Sounds of Summer 28.06 Friday - 30.06 Sunday

Park Live

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 660 60 40, www.parklive. pro. VDNKh, that oddity which marks the Soviet Odyssey, is following Gorky Park and Sokolniki as it transforms itself into a cultural hotspot. The first Park Live festival brings big name acts from near and far to play in the shadow of a replica spaceship. Cleared for take-off, Limp Bizkit opens the event on the Friday evening, while The Killers top Saturday’s bill as part of the “Battle Born” World Tour which takes in their biggest show to date at Wembley a week earlier. The weekend also features sets from electroclashers Crystal Castles, dark rockers Within Temptation and post-punks Paramour, while local interest comes from Mumy Troll and a rare festival set from the rejuvenated golden girl of angsty Russian rock, Zemfira. Q Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.

06.07 Saturday

12:00 Subbotnik Festival 22.06 Saturday

18.06 Tuesday

20:00 Depeche Mode

21:00 Down

Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.down-nola.com. Down, set up by Pantera’s Phil Anselmo, is one of heavy metal’s happy accidents. What began as a spot of light relief between albums, and some casual jamming among friends, suddenly evolved into a supergroup. Of course, it helps when your friends include the likes of guitarists Pepper Keenan of Corrosion of Conformity and Kirk Windstein from Crowbar, joined by his bandmate, bassist Todd Strange, and drummer Jimmy Bower of Eyehategod. Three albums, and an EP from last fall, later this part-time project has established itself as a big noise on the metal scene - and the upcoming Moscow show promises all the hits from their work to date. Q Ticlets 1,200 - 7,000Rbl.

Lokomotiv Stadium, ul. Bol. Cherkizovskaya 125A, MCherkizovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 30 20, www.depechemode.com. Synth pop legends Depeche Mode need no introduction - especially not in this part of the world, where their fame dates back decades. Even back in the Perestroika era it was possible to find graffiti hailing Dave Gahan and his bandmates, and if changing times mean they are no longer an underground thrill their popularity remains undimmed. Regular visitors to Moscow, the British band has always delighted capacity crowds in the city’s biggest venues. This year’s gig, in support of the recently-released album Delta Machine, looks set to be the stadium show of the summer - don’t miss out! Q Tickets 3,000 - 17,000Rbl.

28.06 Friday

19.06 Wednesday

20:00 Public Image Limited (Pil)

C-2, Izvestiya Hall, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 364 05 05, www.pilofficial.com. Punk’s not dead, as any self-respecting Moscow graffiti artist will daub on your wall, and here’s Johnny Rotten himself ready to prove it. The legendary Sex Pistols frontman didn’t merely fade away after that group’s blazing history imploded, and his second incarnation, as John Lydon of Public Image Ltd, has proved more enduring. While the Pistols have reformed on occasion, PiL has remained an active band, releasing an album as recently as last year following an extended hiatus. The snarling attitude remains firmly intact, and if time has dulled the shock of some of Lydon’s antics there’s no disputing his showmanship on the concert stage. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

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20:30 New Order

B-5, Gorky Park, ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, www.subbotnikfestival.com. After the success of last year’s season of open-air gigs, Moscow’s biggest park is upping the stakes and putting on a full-scale show. There’s a strong British accent to the event, which, like Park Live, is another festival debut. Arctic Monkeys, one of the biggest Brit bands of the past decade, headlines, while Mancunian synth-poppers Hurts, Oxford indie-kids Foals and singer-songwriter Jessie Ware make up the bill. Britpop has enjoyed enduring popularity in Moscow for years, and this show looks set to be one of the hottest tickets of the summer. Q Tickets 2,000 - 7,000Rbl.

13.07 Saturday

12:00 Afisha Picnic

Kolomenskoye Estate, 39 Pr. Andropova, MKolomenskaya, www.picnic.afisha.ru. The annual Afisha Picnic music festival, backed by the eponymous listings mag and hipster bible, has a reputation for getting interesting bands over here and is revered by many. Once again, it’s a good year for lovers of Britpop, with Blur headling the main stage in a rustic setting some distance from the Parklife they hymnned back in the 90s. New acts are still being added to the bill, although long-running Russian rockers Splin and quirky indie kid Bat for Lashes are among those already confirmed. The all-day event is very much a family affair: apart from the music there’s a huge range of kiddie-friendly activity on offer, and the festival is strictly alcohol free. Q Tickets 1,800 - 5,000Rbl.

Stadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.neworderonline.com. Earlier in the year we had Peter Hook bringing his recreation of Joy Division back to Moscow - now it’s the turn of his erstwhile band-mates. While Hook’s acrimonious departure from New Order has caused a rift in one of the longest-running acts in the business, the show must go on and the Manchester synth specialists are back on tour at last following a triumph performance during London’s Olympic celebrations last summer. There is new material, but all ears are on the old favorites - Blue Monday, True Faith and the definitive sound of 80s electro-pop, transplanted from the intimate dancefloors of Manchester to the cavernous expanse of Moscow’s biggest dedicated concert venue. Q Tickets 1,990 - 12,000Rbl.

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June - July 2013

culture & events July events 03.07 Wednesday

21:00 Die Antwoord

Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.dieantwoord.com. Cape Town’s Die Antwoord became an Internet sensation back in 2010 when their brand of electrorap suddenly found itself in front of a global audience of millions thanks to debut video “Enter the Ninja”. Their music and image channels ‘zef’, a shamelessly brassy style, bling with African accents, and their songs mix English, Afrikaans and Xhosa. Clearly, this isn’t a band which is interested in playing the fashion game, but its uncompromising stance - teetering on the brink of hoax and reality - has inspired a devoted army of fans around the world, and prompted a spate of fan art which has often found its way back into the band’s own work. Q Tickets 1,800 - 7,000Rbl.

Culture & events 23.07 Tuesday

Exhibitions

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55. It’s shaping up to be a good summer for lovers of British rock music, and perhaps the most exciting show of the lot is The XX’s visit. Defying the stereotype which sees so many acts wait until their star is fading before coming to Russia, this London-based trio is very much at the top of its game - producing music which has got the thumbs up from such greats as Robert Smith (The Cure), Michael Stipe (REM) and Courtney Love. Their brand of ethereal dream pop, built around the evocative duet between Romy Croft and Oliver Sim, is elegant and mysterious …and strangely addictive. Q Tickets 700 - 6,000Rbl.

Through 23.06 Sunday

20:00 The XX

Boris Messerer

C-4, Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Boris Messerer was one of the brightest names of the 60s generation, renowned for the way it plundered the official canon of literature, theater and art to breath vibrant new life into the ossified forms of official Soviet culture in the immediate post-war period. This renaissance, which coincided with the brief cultural thaw led by Khrushchev, saw Messerer build a reputation as a fantastic stage designer for the Bolshoi, The Moscow Art Theater and the Sovremenik. To mark the artist’s 80th birthday, the Tretyakov Gallery is holding a major retrospective of his works, with more than 100 exhibits including paintings and sketches from 1960 to the end of the century and installations from the early years of the 21st century. The collection emphasizes the artist’s verstatility. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

03.07 Wednesday

21:00 Joe Satriani

18.07 Thursday

19:00 Iron Maiden

SK Olimpiysky pr. 16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.ironmaiden.com. There comes a time when any band has to consider whether the legendary light is beginning to fade - and some would say recreating a triumphant tour from decades past might have more than a whiff of living on past glories. But for Iron Maiden that charge is a little unfair. Frontman Bruce Dickinson may be old enough to know better, but he races around stage with energy enviable in a man half his age. This year’s return to Moscow is part of the “Maiden England” tour, intended to recreate the highs of 1988’s “Seventh Son” show, promising a raucous evening of heavy metal heroism with the amps turned right up to 11. Q Tickets 2,500 - 10,000Rbl.

Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.satriani.com. The great virtuous of the guitar returns with another solo program enough to get Moscow’s fretworkers frothing at the mouth in anticipation. Blessed with an almost unsurpassed technique, Satriani’s work has left a deep influence on a huge range of artists. Without his promptings, we may never have had the likes of Metallica, Steve Vai, Ingwie Malmsteen and many more. On his own, Satriani has gone a long way towards popularizing instrumental rock, taking it out of the obscure album track and placing it center stage for a wider audience. Expect dazzling technique and virtuoso music making from this show. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl.

Through 30.06 Sunday

Rebecca Horn

B-4, Moscow Multimedia Art Museum, ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www. mamm-mdf.ru. German artist Rebecca Horn has earned her fame in several different artistic fields, from directing films to creating installations. But it’s her body modifications - such as the provocative “Einhorn” (Unicorn) - which have cemented her fame. This is her first solo exhibition in Russia and brings together 35 major works, including the specially created “Der Fluchtkoffer” (The Fugitive’s Suitcase), giving local audiences a chance to immerse themselves in her absorbing and challenging modern interpretations of what it means to be human, to inhabit a human body and how the relationships between man and landscape can be manipulated by tinkering with the viewer’s expectations. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Classical Russian Theatre The granddaddy of the Moscow Theatre world is the historic Maly (small) Theatre. If you are looking to enjoy classical Russian theatre from the likes of Chekhov, Pushkin, Ostrovsky and Gogol, the Maly is the best choice. Here are just some of the highlights of the Russian classics showing at the Maly Theatre during the next month:

Three Sisters (A. Chekhov)

Timeless classic drama relating the lives and aspirations of the three cultured Prozarov sisters. Irina, Masha and Olga struggle through the disappointments of a brother who gambles away all their wealth and marries a woman who dominates them, suitors who disappear to new horizons and an inability to return to the excitements and culture of Moscow. Second stage. Performances at 18:00 on 29.06.

The Queen of Spades (A. Pushkin)

Herman, an Imperial officer, becomes obsessed with a mythical secret held by an old countess which guarantees success at cards. Whilst Herman is threatening the countess to force her to reveal the secret, the old woman dies of fright. Herman is then haunted by her ghost who finally tells him the incredible secret to winning at cards. Second stage. Performances at 18:00 on 16.06.

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Maly Theatre www.maly.ru

Second stage: D-5, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, M Dobryninskaya (+7) 499 237 31 81

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June - July 2013

culture & events Russia - Netherlands Year 24.05 Friday - 14.07 Sunday

Still/Life Contemporary Dutch Photography

B-4, Moscow Multimedia Ar t Museum, ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru. Still/Life - Contemporary Dutch Photography is a travelling exhibition from FOAM, Photography Museum in Amsterdam. This group exhibition has an art historical theme: the still life. For a wide group of contemporary (autonomous) photographers, still life continues to inspire, although the concept has been modernised and updated. The Potatoes series by Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm is far from traditional, yet highly graphic and the subject is extremely Dutch. Given the choice of photographers, the show forms a survey Dutch talent including: Elspeth Diederix, Marnix Goossens, Paul Kooiker, Scheltens & Abbenes, and Johannes Schwartz. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

28.05 Tuesday - 09.09 Monday

Marius Bauer

B-3, The State Museum for Oriental Art, Nikitinsky bul. 12a, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 96 14, www.orientmuseum.ru/en. In 1896, the Dutch artist Marius Bauer was present at the crowning of Tsar Nicolas II. Bauer was appointed to the festivities as a correspondent for the magazine De Kroniek. Back in Holland, he used his sketches and notes for a unique series of water colors and etches, which will be shown for the first time at the place where they were originally drawn up: Moscow. The exhibition contains ca. 20 paintings, 20 water colors and 30 etchings, medals, books, magazines, photo’s and letters, which represents an overview of his rich oeuvre. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

18.06 Tuesday - 10.09 Tuesday

Russia and the Netherlands: Space of Cooperation C-3, State Historical Museum, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm. ru/en. The State Historical Museum on the Red Square shows 400 years of Dutch-Russian history (16th-19th century), based on shared heritage. Cartography plays an important role in this exhibition as well as Dutchmen, in Russian service, who have contributed to the development of Russia, Trade, science, cultural exchange, infrastructural works and political interaction come to the fore. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

20.06 Thursday - 29.06 Saturday

Focus on the Netherlands

The Netherlands might not be one of the most famous film-making countries in Europe, but following in the footsteps of Paul Verhoven there is a new wave of emerging talent. Belying the pessimism of director Jos Stelling, who suggests his homeland is too prosperous to generate great cinema, Dutch films have made international ripples in recent years. George Sluizer’s “Dark Blood” was a Berlinale blockbuster, while Alex van Warmerdam’s “Borgman” played in the Cannes program. And as 2013 marks the Year of The Netherlands in Russia, the Moscow International Film Festival (June 20-29) features a strand devoted to Dutch cinema emphasizing the contemporary generation of directors. See more information www. moscowfilmfestival.ru.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & events Through 30.06 Sunday

Dmitry Gutov. No Surprises

B-2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Ermolaevsky per. 17, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma. ru. Dmitry Gutov is an artist who has tended to tread the more obscure paths: his interests have led him to genres and concepts which lie outside the mainstream, whether that’s the work of the 19unfashionable philosophies of Hegel or Marx. His influences are diverse, from the everyday design of Soviet newspapers and magazines to the exotic strokes of Chinese calligraphy. This retrospective covers 25 years of Gutov’s work, with special reference to his photos and installations from the post-Soviet era as the artist - like many of his contemporaries - grappled with the rapid, sometimes brutal, transformation of Russian society. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month.

Through 11.08 Sunday

Anatoly Komelin. The Edges of a Gap

D-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.gemsart.ru. This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away a unique little piece of Russia, rather another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves and of course Russian dolls.Q Open Mon - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Through 07.07 Sunday

The Art of the Russian Avant Garde

B-3, Moscow Museum of Modern Ar t (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma. ru. The Soviet Union was notorious for censorship and artistic repression, but in the early years of the 20th century on both sides of the Revolution - Russia was a hotbed of avant garde experiments. And this epoch forms the centerpiece of the big summer exhibition at the Moscow Museum of Modern Art: “The Art of the Russian Avant garde”. Drawing heavily on the collection of Saratov State Gallery, it gives Moscow art lovers a rare chance to see some famous works from the final years of Tsarist Russia, including Lentulov’s “Landscape with a red house”, a deliberately fantastical affair which shares close kinship with his 1917 series of landscapes around Novy Ierusalem, a monastery to the North-West of the capital. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month.

Through 11.08 Sunday

The Art of Restoration at the Moscow Kremlin Museums

Through 29.09 Sunday

Dreams for those who are awake

C-2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Moscow Museum of Modern Art’s annual themed exhibition is an ambitious project that draws together works from many fields of the arts and sets out to make visitors look - and then look again. Can we trust images that seem straightforward and realistic? Can art capture what is beyond human experience? Instead of handing explanations to viewers on a plate, the curators have collected works that resist one-sided interpretation, leaving you to ponder these questions for yourself. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month.

C-3, The Kremlin, Alexandrovsky Sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Russia is justly renowned for the wealth of its artistic treasures, with the collections of its greatest galleries reading as a roll-call of the world’s greatest artists. But maintaining and preserving these masterpieces is an art in its own right, as this intriguing show at the Kremlin proves. It gives visitors a rare glimpse behind the scenes, and an insight into the craft of the restorers which keep the Kremlin collection in top-notch condition. Rated among the best in the world, this team of experts is responsible for the restoration and preservation of all artifacts, from painting and sculpture to manuscripts and weaponry. With more than 100 exhibits, many of them undergoing repair, it’s a detailed analysis of how this delicate work is done. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu.

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Art Salon on Starosadsky

B-5, Tretyakov State Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery. ru. The highlight of this exhibition is the first ever public showing of six stone reliefs made for the iconostasis at the Church of the Resurrection in Peredelkino, the village near Moscow which was home to the late Russian Orthodox Patriarch Sergey. Komelin, a sculptor and painter known for his stark and austere style, turns 60 this year, and his jubilee show at the State Tretyakov Gallery brings together around 40 of his works including paintings and drawings as well as large-scale three-dimensional works including the 2013 piece which lends its name to the entire exhibition. Q Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.

Through 03.11 Sunday

Gifts and Acquisitions

C-4, Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Since the start of the 21st change in the way its collection develops. The days of heavy state involvement and sponsorship are largely gone, and the acquisitions process has returned to something closer to the philanthropic ideas of the museum’s 19theatrical works by Sapunov, and an on-going effort to bring various Russian masterpieces “home” from other parts of the world has resulted in an impressive haul of new pieces, and many of the best are set to go on display here. Artists include Levitan, Repin, Shishkin, Vrubel and many more.Century the Tretyakov - one of Russia’s most important galleries - has seen 19th-century founders. Generous donations, including an outstanding collection of other parts of the world has resulted in an impressive haul of new pieces, and many of the best are set to go on display here. Artists include Levitan, Repin, Shishkin, Vrubel and many more. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

FeatureS

culture & events Scrum down for Sevens action Russian rugby isn’t, perhaps, the most famous sporting tradition in the world – but lovers of the oval ball have ambitious plans to compete at the highest levels and some of them are already bearing fruit. Moscow has for some years staged an IRB Sevens tournament – last year’s was won by England – and in 2013 it hosts the World Championship for the first time. It’s a three-day event bringing the very best of the short form of the sport to Luzhniki, where men’s and women’s events will run in parallel. And, for a nation which achieved its first ever appearance at a 15-a-side Rugby Union World Cup just two years ago, it’s another important staging post on the way towards establishing itself as a serious player in the sport. Not that Union has enjoyed the easiest of histories in Russia: in Soviet times it was treated with suspicion, not surprisingly given the fact that Russia’s most famous rugby player of the 20th century was the émigré prince and England international Alexander Obolonsky, a dashing winger whose celebrated try against the fearsome All Blacks in 1936 swiftly passed into legend. Indeed it was the 13-a-side code, rugby league, which initially gained attention in Russia before a switch in focus to union. The fruits of that focus have seen the Russian Bears, as the national team is known, become a serious force in the European Championship, while a few players have found opportunity and experience playing in England, Ireland and France – a vital bridge to the highest level. Meanwhile, steady investment into the sport’s grassroots has seen Moscow host junior international tournaments and now the World Sevens Championship. Admittedly, it’s difficult to see a home win in this championship. The group stage pits the Bears against Scotland, South Africa and Japan, and while the big two are talking respectfully about the challenge of facing down the host nation and its lively support, there is little doubt that they will expect to progress to the knock-out phase. Instead, the honors are likely to be contested by the game’s established powers: Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, England, France and the sevens specialists of Tonga, Fiji and Samoa. But even without the encouragement of Russian success, the chance to see crack sevens squads from the Southern Hemisphere giants, the ever-competitive Pacific Islanders and the pick of Europe’s teams should provide a fine sporting spectacle. And, for those unfamiliar with the subtleties of rugby and the mysteries of scrum, ruck and maul, sevens is a hugely accessible form of the game, quickly understood and enjoyed by first-time fans. The tournament runs June 28 - 30, and tickets are available at www.rwcsevens.com. A three-day pass starts at 840Rbl, day tickets are also available.

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Play the game If watching a spot of sevens has inspired to take up the game, Moscow Dragons is the city’s only expat rugby club. The team plays challenge games, organizes tours and welcomes players of all ages and abilities. For more details, see www. facebook.com/mdrfc/info or www.mdrfc.com.

Revving up at the Raceway Russia might still be waiting for its first taste of competitive Formula 1 action (Sochi is penciled in to host next summer), but the city’s petrolheads need not go short of excitement this summer. Aside from the annual Moscow City Racing event, which promises to bring top F1 drivers to show their skills on an exhibition circuit downtown (July 21), there’s a wealth of competitive action at the Moscow Raceway near Volokolamsk. On June 8-9 the FIA World Touring Car Championship comes to town, hosting a stage in Russia for the first time in the event’s 25-year history. On June 22 - 23 the World Series by Renault – regarded as the biggest event for emerging young talents – returns to the venue after last year’s successful event. Once again, there’s every chance of spotting a potential F1 star of the future at this event. www. moscowraceway.ru In July the action switches to two wheels, with the return of the Eni FIM Superbike series, another established event which made its Russian debut at the Raceway last summer. That event drew record crowds to the arena, confirming the popularity of motorsport in this country. The action runs from July 12 - 20. www.eni-fim-superbike-world. rsspump.com

Get involved Each year Moscow’s Luzhniki sports complex hosts an annual sporting festival designed to encourage more people to try their hand at a new game or refresh the skills that have lain dormant since their schooldays. This year’s event offers more than 50 different sports – from rollerblading to chess – free of charge, and culminates in a concert from Russian pop stars. It’s all happening from July 25 - 28. www.luzhniki.ru. By Andy Potts

Gorky Park “Follow the Moskva down to Gorky Park, listening to the wind of change...” goes the line in the Scorpions’ best-selling 1990 song. Two decades later on a summer evening you can find yourself walking along the embankment to the sound of a new wind of change. Gorky Park, also known by the somewhat unpronounceable acronym of ‘TsPKiO’, the Central Park of Culture and Leisure, has got the be the best-known park in Russia. For much of the last twenty years it has been somewhat overgrown with the hulking dinosaurs of dodgy rollercoasters and tacky Nineties paraphernalia. But 2011 spelled change for Moscow’s best loved park. It has always been a faithful mirror of its time, so its transformation last year from caterpillar to butterfly says a lot about the new Moscow that is emerging from its chrysalis.

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Foreigners hearing the words ‘Gorky Park’ often see a bleak Soviet vision of blood-stained snow, the scene of the grisly triple murder of the 1981 novel and famous Hollywood film it inspired. In the film, based on the book by Martin Cruz Smith, militsia officer Arkady Renko investigates the death of three young ice-skaters found in the park and in doing so uncovers a fur-smuggling operation that his superiors turn out to be in on. Maybe the current directors of Gorky Park could do with his determination and instinct for catching baddies to solve the park’s latest crime bout - the theft of 700 pairs of ice-skates from the rental within five days of it opening. He’d have his work cut out, as each pair was stolen by a different visitor to the ice rink who simply pocketed the skates after an afternoon in the park. Park directors responded sadly with ‘we expected better...’

Aristocratic Gorky Park

A scenic route to Gorky Park could start with a wander through the Neskuchny Sad, heading northwest from Leninsky Prospekt metro station into the park’s quieter, more refined half. The pavilions and ornamental bridges of Moscow’s oldest park, the Neskuchny Sad - endearingly translating as the ‘Not Boring Garden’ - tell the story of the very earliest days of this shady slice of land along the river bank. In the good old days of petticoats and Pushkin, the summer palaces of Moscow’s wealthiest nobles were dotted throughout the pristine forest of the Moskva’s sloping banks. With plenty of cash to splash, they shipped in rare plants and wildlife from around the world, grew pineapples and palm trees in orangeries, and built open air theatres where they would gather on summer evenings. Nowadays it remains a quiet haven in the city centre.

The People’s Park

Another way to enter Gorky Park is to cross the bridge from Park Kultury metro station and go through the imposing Soviet entrance gate, whose towering columns bearing hammers and sickles stand out from the leafy park like the ruins of a Greek temple. With the park’s founding in 1928, this was no longer the playground of the rich: a new Soviet vision for a communal space for all citizens to relax, play sport and enjoy exhibitions was being implemented. A few years later in 1932 the finished park was renamed in honour of Soviet writer Maxim Gorky. Slightly surreal, perhaps, for Gorky himself, who was still living at the time; but then, ‘Gorky’ was only his pseudonym, a pen name meaning ‘bitter’ to show his discontent with the quality of life of the working class, which the Gorky Park of the Thirties set out to improve. But by the arrival of perestroika, the city’s beloved green space was already changing with the times; a tangle of fairground rides and small enterprises sprung up like brambles, entrance to the park was no longer free and the park slowly fell into disarray.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Hollywood’s Gorky Park

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Artisan tea-based ice cream 77 unique flavours Traditional tea ceremonies and tea-based drinks Ul. Pokrovka 27, bldg. 1 metro Chistye Prudy www.cha108.ru

+7 495 225 59 96 +7 903 010 80 30 +7 926 165 00 08

And drop in to our Pueroport Samovar Bar in Gorky Park, nab. Pushkinskaya, opposite the space shuttle Buran

June - July 2013

FeatureS

featureS Summer Highlights

Wondering what to do on a sunny Moscow day? Why not head over to Gorky Park and... ...stargaze in the park’s summer observatory dating from the Thirties, where there will be free lectures from the Moscow Planetarium. Entrance is 40Rbl. ...join a ‘protest’. New in the park for 2013 is a space named Gaid-Park (after London’s famous Hyde Park) set aside for protests. In true modern Moscow style it can be booked via the internet on your iPhone (how did those Bolsheviks ever manage without?). ‘I’m a foreigner,’ we hear you say, ‘I think I’ll give these political things a miss.’ But in actual fact the first ‘protest’ to take place there this May was a ‘Non-Politicised Single Girls’ Meeting’ and featured placards such as ‘Every woman has the right to new shoes!’ and ‘I could be the girl of your dreams’.

The New Gorky Park

In 2011 Russia’s eye was once more drawn to Gorky Park and Sergey Kapkov was commanded to wave a magic wand over it and make the park into somewhere that would attract locals and visitors alike. And abracadabra, it worked. Gone are the cheap attractions and increasingly precarious fairground rides, in their place, a garden to rival the best of city parks in capitals around the world. In a way, Gorky Park is now a little more similar to its Soviet incarnation, with its sports facilities and exhibitions. Only this time round, it’s skateboarding, yoga, and the latest in contemporary art from the ‘Garage’ culture centre. The park is one of a kind in Moscow and in clear weather is almost always buzzing with life. On the one hand it’s achingly fashionable - watch out for park staff dressed in designer denim uniforms - yet on the other, it’s got universal appeal in its well-kept, lively and free-to-all green spaces. In winter it’s home to Europe’s biggest ice-skating rink, and one of its most atmospheric - as well as separate spaces for figure skating, dancing and ice hockey there are lit-up ice alleys meandering through the trees and along the embankments of the frozen Moskva. In its early days Gorky Park was home to the first ‘children’s railway, where children were taught to drive the trains on its short track. Nowadays children can be kept busy at the ‘Green School’, an eco-centre that runs creative workshops for little hands to get mucky painting and gardening, or looking after the rabbits and other animals that live in the park. And of course, what modern Russian venue would be complete without free WiFi?

...go to a concert. The open air Zelyony Teatr (‘Green Theatre’) has attracted big names in recent years. This year it will host British band Arctic Monkeys amongst others. As well as big concerts from rock to jazz to pop to you name it, there are free music festivals showcasing independent bands from Russia and further afield. ...take part in a free workshop. Gorky’s wonderful philosophy is a brilliant antidote to how expensive Moscow can seem: in short, some things in life can be both fun and free. You could join skateboarding classes at the skate park, or yoga and salsa sessions down by the river, learn to rollerskate, run with the jogging club or take a guided cycle tour of the park. Watch out on the ‘news’ section of their website for more details of the many, many workshops that take place in the park. ...dine out under the trees with Russian pelmeni and all things dumpling-based at Pelman. From dim-sum to spinach ravioli to cheese vareniki, it’s all freshly made and a tasty way to replenish the calories lost in a hard day’s relaxing at the park. The rebranded Gorky Park is full to the brim with exciting places to eat out. Pick from takeaway stands serving soup or fresh stir fry or Georgian food and restaurants offering everything under the sun.

Official name Central Park of Culture and Leisure named after Maxim Gorky Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Ice Cream

...take a cruise on a Radisson yacht, which sets off from the pier in Gorky Park and makes its way along the Moskva taking in the city’s most famous sights. Relax in style with a glass of champagne and three-course meal from their on-board restaurant with an open roof deck. An optional English-language audio commentary gives insights into the rich history of the places you’ll pass, whilst the huge windows mean you can soak up the views from both indoors and outdoors. The super-modern yachts take two and a half hours to meander up and down the river and will drop you off where you got on; it can also be made from the famous Radisson Royal (Ukraina) Hotel. Adult ticket 900Rbl. ...have a nice cup of tea. Get refreshed at the Pueroport Samovar Bar (opposite the Buran space shuttle) where you’ll find all the tea-based fun you ever dreamt of, more kinds of exotic tea than you can shake a stick at and of course a proper (and huge!) Russian samovar. Relax on the veranda in the evenings to the sound of a gramophone whilst enjoying a scoop of their unique tea ice creams and sorbets, which incorporate unusual natural flavours from wild elk milk to pine tree extract. ...enjoy modern art at the Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture and join creative masterclasses in their educational centre.

...be adventurous on the PandaPark highropes course in the Neskuchny Sad. Make your way along a choice of three assault courses of platforms suspended in the trees twenty feet off the ground. Prices start at 300Rbl for adults / 250Rbl for children. ...watch a movie at the open air cinema and café. They show a mix of art house and festival films as well as recent releases from the mainstream; prices start at 300Rbl, and there is the occasional free showing. Check the park website for details of what’s coming up. ...relax! Bring a picnic and a friend, hunt down a hanging chair or giant beanbag, relax on the lawn or play a spot of table tennis, grab a book from the open library, feed the ducks from the bird-food vending machine, quench your thirst at the free drinking fountains, read the paper online using the free WiFi, watch the pointy-eared red squirrels and the evening sun reflected in the Moskva. There are few better places than Gorky Park to soak up both the summer sun and the buzzing city atmosphere.

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Ice cream, it must be said, is not the first thing that most foreigners would associate with Russia. Ice, yes, all manner of high-calorie dairy products, yes - but ice cream? And yet this is one of Russia’s favourite treats; even in winter, astounded visitors to this chilly land can see ice cream stands in full working order in temperatures that make ice lollies seem like a warming snack. Extreme winter temperatures in Russia mean that back in the day you could see street vendors selling ice cream without any sort of refrigeration needed. More than just a pudding, it’s a matter of some national pride, and it’s true that over the years Russia has produced high quality ice-cream at insanely low prices. Inevitably the market has changed and you’ll be just as likely to find familiar brands here as Russian ones, but at least they’re cheaper than elsewhere as the Russian market has forced their prices down. If you want the real deal, look out for Russian brands like Chistaya Liniya and USSR ice creams. What we think of nowadays as a favourite childhood summer snack has behind it an illustrious history. From Ancient China, where its recipe was a keenly-guarded secret, it travelled with Marco Polo to Italy where it was an instant hit with the aristocracy. It’s garnered praise from biblical King Solomon, Hippocrates and from Alexander the Great who specially trained slaves to run really fast up to the mountains to fetch ice for making ice-cream before it melted. In the chillier climes of Russia this was never a problem, and so it caught on quickly in the early days of Russia’s history, where no special technology was needed to keep it good and frozen in the winter.

Chainaya Vysota Chainaya Vysota E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChystye

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 225 59 96, www.cha108.ru. We’re finding it difficult to condense how exciting this place is into words! An ice-cream-café-cum-specialist-tea-shop, it features delicate mixes from the minds of local artists such as famous mime Slava Polunin. The available flavours include dandelion honey, elk milk, kvass and linseed, with more daring combinations such as the gorgonzola, bergamot and pear. Menus are mounted on thick slabs of wood, but not yet in English. However, this could be a bonus - it’s so difficult to choose that picking by chance could be easier! There is an equally varied selection of granola, and seaweed-sheet snacks, all in the setting of a bookshop, furnished with clean, simple linen. It also has an oriental-style room for tea ceremonies where its 300 kinds of tea can be taken at floor-level, under the gaze of an original Yuriy Norshteyn hand-drawn hedgehog. When out and about don’t miss their stand in Gorky Park opposite the Buran space shuttle (Pueroport Samovar Bar Gorky Park, Pushkinskaya Embankment, tel: (+7) 903 010 80 30). QOpen 11:00 - 00:30, Sat 15:00 - 24:00.

June - July 2013

hotels

FeatureS Early versions of Russian ice cream included a traditional dish that villagers would prepare for Maslenitsa, the Russian pancake festival in the beginning of March; this was an indulgent frozen mix of sour cream, cottage cheese, raisins and honey. Ice cream as we know it today appeared in Russia in the 18th century and at first was the sort of luxury only the wealthiest could afford - Catherine the Great was a fan. The Soviet era brought many changes to Russia and its working class, but most importantly of course, it brought ice cream. In the Thirties, machines for its production started to appear in the country and the government proclaimed ‘Then let them eat ice cream!’. And boy, did they. It even got the seal of approval from Lenin himself, who according to legend told his sister that he could eat a whole train of the stuff.

Kinds of Ice Cream Since the Thirties Russia has had a unique range of flavours that Russians get misty-eyed about and which you won’t find anywhere else. The days when ice creams had names like ‘48 Kopeks’ and actually only cost that much are sadly long gone; but have kept the names and recipes that made them great and can be found in supermarkets and ice-cream stands throughout the land, and here are some of them...

Our colleague Natalya remembers from the Eighties a place named ‘Cosmos’ at the start of ul. Tverskaya, where generous scoops of plombir would be served in vases with blackcurrant jam and chocolate and a queue would always form outside for its famous ice cream. Nowadays we’re spoilt for choice in Moscow, so we’ve picked out some highlights to help you choose. French pâtisserie Paul treats its guests to scoops of fruit sorbets and ice creams from its bicycle / streetside stand.

The most luxurious kind of all, Plombir is a Russian adaptation of a French recipe from the town of Plombièresles-Bains, but really all it’s kept from the original French dessert is how very rich it is. To officially have the name Plombir, it needs to contain at least 12% fat, which it achieves by the addition of egg yolks. Old Soviet posters describe it as being great for the health - modern day ideas about health might be a little different, but it remains a favourite.

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period June - July 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya E-1, Ul. Kalanchevs-

Or, as you might have guessed, ‘crême brûlée’, but this is not the French pudding most would know. This flavour of ice-cream is made with condensed milk or with burnt sugar, which give it its characteristic flavour. Baskin Robbins can be found in many supermarkets and shopping centres in the capital as well as in their café on the Old Arbat and their cheerful range of American ice-creams are sure crowd-pleasers. Conversation (ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 23/14/9) also has some interesting all-American flavours, from blueberries to carrot cake to maple syrup, made into ice-cream form in quaint little jars, as well as indulgent ice cream popsicles. For something a little out of the ordinary head to Chainaya Vysota (ul. Pokrovka 27/1) and its many, many tea-based flavours. The famous Russian Café Pushkin (ul. Tverskaya 26a) offers plenty of its homemade ice creams and sorbets, where indecisive customers can sample a selection plate featuring 12 different flavours. Or relax in the shade with pistachio ice cream or mint and lime sorbet and a view of the Kremlin from the summer terrace of Italian restaurant Sorriso in the Stary Telegraf restaurant complex (ul. Tverskaya 7).

How to pronounce ice-cream: мороженое – marozhenoye Moscow In Your Pocket

Photo by Anna Arinova

5 stars

Krem-Bryule

Stakanchik

Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. Boutique design hotel - there is a fine line being walked here in the loud design, but in the end the purple, red and black-coloured interior just makes it. The cigar lounge and the restaurant are stellar, created from the excitable minds of Russia’s best designers. Indeed, the abundance of French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pokrovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and all are filled with hip 1930s and 1950s design features and modern kitchenettes. The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored with the state-of-the-art televisions and wireless internet. In the single room exemplary, the double bed folds up into the wall. Q84 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,200Rbl) not included. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhhh

Where to eat it

Plombir

Not a flavour as such, but there’s nothing that will take you back to your childhood in the Pioneers like a waffle cup with a scoop of ice cream that’s melting as fast as you can eat it, and now the Arbat and other pedestrian streets are lined with stands can help you relive those golden days. Our colleague Natalya remembers always asking for a ‘vafelny stakanchik s rozochkoy’ - with a little rose, as they were decorated with a small pink cream flower.

Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka E-2, Ul.

Winston Churchill, after visiting wintery Moscow and seeing its citizens wrapped up in shapkas and fur coats merrily strolling around, famously concluded that ‘You cannot defeat a nation that eats ice-cream at -40 degrees.’ During the war the government printed orders to the population on the inside of ice lolly wrappers. Standards were set high by the authorities and all ice-cream production was monitored, so everything was made with care; many speak with nostalgia about the ice cream of the USSR, the ‘taste of childhood’. They don’t make it like they used to! is something you’ll certainly hear said about ice cream, but a general revival of interest towards Soviet life and traditions means that some companies nowadays are trying to recreate the flavours beloved by those who grew up in the Soviet Union.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

kaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. The huge marble pillared ballroom doubles as a conference hall, while the second smaller hall houses the Janus restaurant. Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 10,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,350Rbl) are not included. PHA6UFL� GKDCW hhhhh

Lotte Hotel Moscow A-3, Novinsky bul.8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-ofthe-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very expensive spa. Due to the specially designed glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out club lounge. In short, if you are looking for a mix of luxury and style and energy, this is your place. Q 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,800Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh moscow.inyourpocket.com

Marriott Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated conveniently on Tverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are quality buffet lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast 1,450Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Radisson Royal Hotel A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radissonhotels.ru/royal-moscow. An absolutely monumental hotel, which with its 505 rooms and 29 floors, is easily the biggest luxury hotel in Moscow. The lobby takes in not only the reception, but also a huge interactive scale model of Moscow as it was back in the 1970s and the chance to buy a Rolls Royce. The rooms vary in colour schemes and size, but all benefit from huge beds that you almost need a step ladder to mount and original Socialist realist art. The bathrooms with panoramic views of the city in the ambassador suites are particularly inviting. Dining options take in a wealth of options including an outstanding Iranian restaurant. Not a place to do things by halves, the Royal has a full Olympic sized pool as well a gigantic fitness centre in the basement. Q497 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGK� DCW hhhhh

Symbol Key P T K F C D 6

Air conditioning Child friendly Restaurant Fitness centre Swimming pool Sauna Animal friendly

A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station W Wi-Fi connection

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Eastern Europe check out our website www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013

Hotels

4 stars Aquamarine Hotel D-4, Ozerkovskaya nab. 26,

MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 580 28 28, www. aquamarinemoscow.com. This sparkling bright boutique hotel is perfect for business travelers coming to Moscow to take part in smaller meetings - their conference rooms catering for up to 12 people are superb, with not a stray wire or dodgy curtain in sight. Up in the spacious rooms it’s also gadgets a-go-go, they even have phones in the toilets, just in case. The executive floor is the real attraction with full length windows and to die for roof terraces. Q159 rooms (Room prices start at 6,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh

Crowne Plaza WTC A-3, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www. ichotelsgroup.com. The charming mechanical rooster crows across the wide atrium every hour and the palm trees bring to mind Hawaii. Here you wil find stylish rooms and facilities in a classic hotel space. Standard rooms are tastefully kitted out in chocolate and biscuit striped carpet, a bold design feature that gives an air of innovation and warmth. There is also the Real Food Restaurant and a daily shuttle to the nearby Expo exhibitions centre. Q724 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhh

Hotels Novotel Moscow City Hotel Presnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. Novotel’s latest addition to the Moscow scene is ideally placed amongst the glittering skyscrapers of the new Moscow City business district for those who like to work hard and relax just as hard as well. The flexible conference facilities leave nothing to be desired, whilst the suite category of rooms could host small meetings in themselves and come with a large sofa, separate bathroom for guests, and a Nespresso brand coffee machine for the caffeine-fuelled businessman. To relax after a hard day’s businessing there’s a spa with sauna and Turkish baths, a large restaurant, a free-standing fireplace in the bar for sitting down with the paper, calm minimalist design and beds of impressive proportions. Q360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). PTHA6FLGKDW

3 stars Cosmos Hotel Moscow Pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 10 00, www.hotelcosmos.ru. It’s hard to miss this monumentally sized Soviet giant in all its flickering neon-light glory, towering over the street opposite the VDKHa exhibition centre. Despite its lackluster appearance and casino-like lobby, Cosmos is still a reasonable option given its price and location. Rooms are basic, clean and inoffensive. This is a heavy-duty tour group hot-spot meaning that rooms can look slightly worn. Ask for a room with a view of the famous Ostankino tower. Q1777 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAFL� GKDCW hhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation Moscow In Your Pocket

Sukharevka D-1, Bolshaya Sukharevskaya pl. 16/18, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 607 26 24, www. suharevkahotel.ru. This mini hotel is a comfortable place for budget travelers and just a five-minute walk from the metro. When you come out of the metro, remember to go in the opposite direction from McDonald’s. The staff speak English and are well acquainted with foreigners. While the rooms, with basic amenities and shared bathrooms, may call to mind a student dormitory, they are all clean and recently renovated. The office is located next door, in the Lenin Hostel, as both share the same management. Guests have access to the hostel’s kitchen facilities and free internet. Q12 rooms (Room prices start at 1,800Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast not included. PTA6GW

Warsaw C-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7)

499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. The winning aspects of this hotel are its location (literally right on the top of the metro station and a few minutes walk to Gorky park and the Tretyakov gallery) and the views. Up in the plush looking breakfast room on the top floor (complete with chandeliers and velvet curtains) you are treated to a view of the Moscow skyline in all its flashing glory. Rooms on the executive floor are colourful, while the rest are super plain, like most hotels of this class. The business rooms are particularly roomy while the singles are the opposite. Q135 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). PTHAGK hhh

Golden Ring Hotel А-4, Ul. Smolenskaya 5, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 725 01 65, www.hotel-goldenring.ru. This huge hotel is ideally located within a stone’s throw of two metro stations and just a short walk from the many shops and cafes of the popular Stary Arbat street. There are numerous different classes of room to choose from, although all come with a king size bed as standard. For obvious reasons the most popular rooms are those on the higher floors, although if you aren’t lucky enough to get a killer view you can simply head up to the restaurants on the top floor with a cocktail or whilst enjoying Sunday brunch. Q293 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PHAFLGKDW Moscow Suites Serviced Apartments B-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 22, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 233 64 29, www. moscowsuites.ru. These modern, well-appointed apartments are centrally located on two main streets of Moscow (Novy Arbat and Tverskaya), and offer great value accommodation. You can choose between studios and one bedroom apartments. All apartments are freshly renovated and include high speed Wifi, flatscreen cable TV, imported linen, full kitchens and even a free airport/train pickup! The knowledgeable and helpful staff can assist you with additional services and guides are available. Q (Prices start at 6,000Rbl). PAGW

Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel.ru. Medea, The 21-room ‘small-hotel’, is named after the elegant Italian furnishings which sprinkle its various rooms. Ranging from the ‘twin studio’ to the apartment-sized ‘Medea suite’, it’s perfectly capable of accommodating entire families in addition to its usual influx of business travelers; rooms come with a ‘kitchen-in-a-cupboard’ for those that want to prepare their own food. However, the hotel lobby also boasts both an Italian restaurant and a smaller cafe, open to both guests and those wandering in off the street - the building is located within some 100 meters of the metro. Originally a merchant house when it was built in 1860, in the post-revolutionary era it housed numerous families. Eighty years later, the conversion began until its opening in 2005. Although most rooms are smoking, 2nd floor rooms are for non-smokers. Rooms are equipped with tea and coffee making facilities. However, room service is not available. Long-term stay, weekend, and online booking discounts are all offered. Q21 rooms (Room prices start at 5,200Rbl). Extra bed free. Breakfast 300Rbl. PTAGKW

Hostels

Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel. com. Budget hotels like this are few and far between in Moscow. A completely new building, with brand new rooms and facilities just ten minutes from the train station and a short distance from the very heart of Moscow. Those concerned about their carbon footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and functional and the ones facing north are particularly large. With the appearance and service attitude of an upmarket hotel, this is a great budget option. Q 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed (1,000Rbl). Breakfast (720Rbl) not included. PTA6ULGKW hhh moscow.inyourpocket.com

Comrade Hostel D-3, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Not only is the location superb, but the atmosphere is friendly and intimate with a distinct taste of bohemian cosiness. With the addition of very comfortable double rooms Comrade is also ideal for those looking to skip staying in a dorm but also stick to a low budget. The friendly young owner, Denis, is a fountain of knowledge about all the quirky off-the-beaten path places to be found in the area and has a great grasp of what independent travellers need, providing help and advice about all aspects of travelling in Russia. The building itself dates back to the medieval period and positively breathes Moscow history - if you’re lucky the artists who work downstairs might be in and you will have the chance to glimpse into the city’s vibrant creative scene. The hostel itself is small enough that you can really get to know people as you sit and relax in the inviting kitchen area. Modern bathrooms, curtains between the end of the dorm beds and free use of the computers and wifi are yet more thoughtful bonuses. Q (Prices per bed start from 650Rbl). PRNGW moscow.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

Restaurants

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Chemodan B-3, Gogolevsky bul. 25/1, MArbatskaya, tel.

(+7) 495 695 38 19, www.chemodan-msk.ru. This is the place to come for real Russian hunter’s fare. The menu is based around numerous old recipes found in a 19th Century Siberian cookbook - resulting in stag, bear, arctic goose and unusual Siberian fish such as white salmon and muksun holding court across the menu accompanied by other treats of the Taiga and homemade Russian vodka and other liqors. Portions are hefty and hearty and the warm and inviting 19th Century parlour interiors, discreetly lit by candles and old lamps, add to the feeling of shelter from a snowstorm, even in summer. Chemodan’s helpful staff, convivial atmosphere and satisfying food all make for a wonderful experience for fans of historic references and kitsch-free Russian cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAEGSW

Dacha na Pokrovke E-2, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg.

4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTAEBSW

Vatrushka C-3, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 530 55 11, www.vatrushka-cafe.ru. Vatrushka’s spacious rooms, outsize furniture, teddies and vintage stopmotion cartoons give it a child-like feel, but the menu and decor are plenty grown up. As well as original, inventive starters and mains that mix Russian-style homeliness with international sophistication, there are sweet and sticky Russian cakes and baked goods, including of course the eponymous vatrushka, the iconic ring-shaped pastry filled with creamy set custard. If you’re not feeling up to any of the delicious but rich food, there’s really endearing tea served with jam and sushki biscuits (though quite how best to combine them is something of a puzzle for foreigners).QOpen 8:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Symbol Key P E T G V B

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking venue Home delivery Outside seating

Moscow In Your Pocket

A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station W Wi-Fi connection

Restaurants Caucasian/Central Asian Chaihona No.1 C-2, Hermitage Sad, MChekhovskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, www.chaihona.com. Pleasing and fresh, this is a cosy little beach hut where you are surrounded by embroidered wall hangings. Perfect for lounging, either on the downstairs couches or the upstairs mezzanine with their powerful sound system playing longe music in the background. Plaited bread with sulguni cheese and spicy marinated chicken with peppers and fresh tangy herbs are some of the favourite staples of the menu. The inspired tapestry portrait of Prime Minister Putin, sadly, is not for sale. 14 other locations in the city including ul. Sadovo-Samotechnaya 20, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy bulvar) and Gorky Park. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALVBSW

Sakhli С-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy

Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sakhli.ru. Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW

Suliko na Patriarshikh B-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www. suliko.ru. Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really big. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTAUVBXSW

Pancho Villa C-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 52, MOktyabrskaya,

tel. (+7) 499 238 54 13, www.pancho.ru. Pancho Villa has the distinction of promoting itself as a restaurant-museum, a rarity in Moscow. Located in a large Mexican-themed basement on Bolshaya Yakimanka, we found it mostly to be a great place to party. The happy hour specials almost call for inebriation with a selection of cocktails and shots on offer at the price of 2 for 1 until 19.00. It is indeed an unusual place in a good way, with wandering tequila girls pouring shots, Latin American dance lessons and a roving Cuban magician, who without much hyperbole, will blow your mind with his tricks. The Nachos Supremos come in portions rarely seen outside of North America, and the quesadillas and Jalapenos Rellenos are also quite good. The fajitas are also a safe bet if a bit pricey. To be fair this place is best enjoyed if one is not looking for a quiet night out. Q Open 11:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Starlite Diner C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Russian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the otherworldly home-away-from-home experience. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees from the pot. American diners are now de rigeur in Moscow but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five 24hour venues with the original being the giant silver truck in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on Stastnoy bulvar. Also at ul. Vernadskogo (metro Universitet), Korovy val 9a (metro Oktyabrskaya) and Bolotnaya pl. 16/5 (metro Tretyakovskaya). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALBSW

Stopka – Small vodka glass Uncle Sam’s Caf e D-5, Ul. Zatsep sky Val 5,

MPavetetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 235 65 30, www. unclesamscafe.ru. Part pool hall, part American diner, this place comes into its own when there’s a big match on TV. Down come the big screens, and up goes the atmosphere as the venue fills up with loud groups of fans. That atmosphere is probably the best thing going for it - other than the opportunity of racking up a few frames of pool or billiards after the game. The food is fairly standard diner fare, with a heavy emphasis on burgers, and the cocktail menu is long on variety but short on innovation. However, when your team is winning, this place is a hit. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00. PASW

Asian and Indian Aozora Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, aozzora.com. You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan you can’t really go back to eating it anywhere else? Well what about when you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi - must be a good sign right? Well we will admit Aozora is located in a large hotel, but nevertheless.The interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey and the menu doesn’t disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVSW

Uryuk Cafe A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 12, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 985 410 00 86, www.urukcafe.ru. Uryuk specialises in colourful food with colourful names like ‘chakhlangan’ and ‘chukuduk’ (thankfully descriptions of the dishes are also provided so you’re not totally in the dark). The interior is a pleasant blend of laid back sofas and Caucasian rugs with a hint of French bistrot; it seems equally suited to life as a restaurant or a bar. Menu-wise there’s a big choice of different Uzbek dishes from soups and salads to all manner of beasts spiced, roasted and kebab’d. Then of course there’s tea served with an Uzbek sense of ceremony, and the hot snacks - variations on the theme of cheesy bready goodness - provide filling options for vegetarians. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PALSW

American and Latin American Navarros Bar and Grill Shmitovsky proezd 23, bldg. 4, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 499 259 37 91, www.navarros.ru. This Latin American restaurant is large, popular and teeming with the noise of sizzling steaks and bubbly conversations. Salsa dances get going in the adjoining bar. Portions are generous and bound to keep hungry boys satisfied and the preparation of all dishes in general is authentic and delicious. Don’t miss out on the house speciality ceviche (fresh fish with chillis, coriander and lime), it is fantastic and we must admit, quite addictive. Navarro’s is far from the metro so it is advisable to arrive by car. Q Open 11:30 until last guest. €€. PALEBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2013

Restaurants

Daikon Sushi and Noodle House D-1, Pr. Mira 12, bldg. 1, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 607 75 78, www.daikon.ru. Daikon is positioned as a sushi and noodle house, but unless you simply must have fish, then we recommend you go for the noodles - they are the highlight of the extensive Asian menu. These huge steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, pad thai and Chinese egg noodles often come with more than a little spice. The interior is typical minimalist Japanese, al though look down and you’ll see you are walking on a fish tank. They have a very pleasant summer terrace, although for some reason in winter it can be a bit chilly indoors. Also at ul. Pyatnitskaya 36 (metro Novokuznetskaya). Q Open 24hrs. €. PTAVBSW Mama Tao D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 56, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 42 49, www.mamatao.ru. A reasonable Chinese place with colourful and tasty food and a fair idea of what constitutes a good portion size. It just manages to avoid looking too much like one Moscow’s millions of sushi restaurants by merit of an abundance of pot plants which along with the dark wood decor creates quite a laid-back atmosphere. Otherwise, it offers what you might expect from a Chinese restaurant, down to the fortune cookie at the end. Also at Leninsky pr. 70. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €. PTAESW MEGU A-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg.

2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 05 15, www.lottehotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply the premier Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to find out what Japanese service standards and fine dining are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t even get us started on the fish! The discreet atmosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. €€€€. PTALEW

Roni C-2, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MKuznetsky Most, tel.

(+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seating has a casual feel to it, but the chandeliers, low lighting and house music remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt this kitchen really knows what it is doing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW

Shanti D-2, Myasnitsky proezd 2/1, bldg.1, MKrasnye

Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 783 68 68, www.shanti.ru. The unusual music somewhere between trance and whale sound, combined with the Buddha statues, dragon motifs and dark lighting, can make this place feel like some kind of odd spa retreat. The menu offers only foodie forms of wellness though. Best described as Asian fusion, they have loads of different spring rolls, imaginative wok dishes as well as soups to name a few. If you find it a little expensive try the equally excellent, but more relaxed ‘shanti buffet’ next door. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €. PTAEBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

Chainaya Vysota E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27/1, MChystye

Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries Art-Café Publika D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 30, bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 651 84 05, www. cafe-publika.ru. Perhaps this place has a little way to go to earn its self-appointed title of ‘art-café’ (no, putting up sepia photos of the Eiffel Tower doesn’t automatically make you arty). Nonetheless it makes good use of historic building in which it finds itself; the open-plan style lends itself well to the window-lined room with views of historic Moscow. The international menu is likewise not as creative as you might like from somewhere like this.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sut 12:00 until last guest. €€. PABS Baskin Robbins B-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 17, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 61 86, www.baskinrobbins.ru. It’s never too cold for ice-cream especially when it comes to Baskin Robbins ice-cream. The world’s leading American ice-cream parlour has all the flavours you can imagine and then some. American favourites such as the Reese’s peanut butter cup or cookies and cream are reliably popular and anything with chocolate in it is another must. We personally love the cheesecakes ice-creams and the expert milkshakes. The Novy Arbat location is particularly large and has a correspondingly big choice. Q Open 24hrs. PTAGW Bez zabot D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24/7, bldg. 1,

MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 31, www. bezzabotcafe.ru. Sometimes in Moscow, even the simplest of tasks - like finding somewhere to sit down with a cup of tea - can seem like a mammoth effort. The solution? Bezzabot (meaning ‘carefree’) is as good as its word. One of the joys of this place is that it’s not trying too hard to be something in particular: it just is, and it works. There are salads, biscuits and cakes (though admittedly the food’s nothing special), sensible kinds of tea and coffee at sensible prices. You buy your food at the counter so you won’t spend half the time trying to flag down the waiter. There’s even a cat (his name is Negodyay - ‘Scoundrel’ - and his dedication to being laid back is exemplary).QOpen 8:00 - 23:00. €. PTABSW

Cafe Buloshnaya E-2, Lyalin per. 7/2, bldg.1, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 32 95, www.buloshnaya.ru. Situated on a quiet side street off Pokrovka ultisa, Buloshnaya is decked out in the old-world Victorian tea-house style, complete with dark wooden furniture, heavy drapes surrounding the large windows and plush sofas for sitting back and enjoying your afternoon tea. As you would expect from a Victorian parlour the music is calming and unobtrusive and they have a very nice selection of pies and cakes, although this is the twentieth Century so no cucumber sandwiches here ma’am! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 225 59 96, www.cha108.ru. We’re finding it difficult to condense how exciting this place is into words! An ice-cream-café-cum-specialist-tea-shop, it features delicate mixes from the minds of local artists such as famous mime Slava Polunin. The available flavours include dandelion honey, elk milk, kvass and linseed, with more daring combinations such as the gorgonzola, bergamot and pear. Menus are mounted on thick slabs of wood, but not yet in English. However, this could be a bonus - it’s so difficult to choose that picking by chance could be easier! There is an equally varied selection of granola, and seaweed-sheet snacks, all in the setting of a bookshop, furnished with clean, simple linen. It also has an oriental-style room for tea ceremonies where its 300 kinds of tea can be taken at floor-level, under the gaze of an original Yuriy Norshteyn hand-drawn hedgehog. When out and about don’t miss their stand in Gorky Park opposite the Buran space shuttle (Gorky Park, Pushkinskaya Embankment, tel: (+7) 903 010 80 30). QOpen 11:00 - 24:30, Sat 15:00 - 24:00.

Koffeecake Corner B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya

4, MMayakovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 669 57 75, www. koffeecakecorner.com. This American coffee house all the way from New York is full of sticky pancakes, chocolatey muffins and other happy-making sweet treats. It would be only too easy to get addicted to their irresistible Nutella coffee and peanut butter hot chocolate (and there are plenty of other shamefully indulgent flavours to pick from). Then of course there’s toasted bagels, burgers and plenty of choices even for vegetarians - it’s not hard to see why Koffeecake Corner has such a loyal following back home. QOpen 24hrs. PTASW

Paul A-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden

Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38, www. ginza.ru. This inviting and cosy café, part of French bakery and patisserie chain Paul, has fast become a favourite in Moscow. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go, or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the petite café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light lunches such as quiche or the irresistible croquemadame. On the sweet side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites - we especially love the strawberry tarts, chaussons aux pommes and custard pies, whilst their refreshing iced frappucinos are a great pick-me-up. Also at Ul. Tverskaya 23/12 bldg.1, Gruzinsky Val 28/45, and Ul. Pyatnitskaya 20.Q Open Mon - Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. PAVGSW

Stary Telegraf Cafe C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 22 44, www.tverskaya7.com. Open 24hrs, this cafe is good fix at any time of day. If you’ve just arrived from an early train, or you’re on your way home after a night out you’ll be pleased to hear that breakfast here starts at 06:00 a.m.and runs way on into lunch time. The menu is particularly strong in baked goods, pies, sandwiches, croissants and the like while larger mains are also available. Sweet and savoury topped waffles and unusual flavours of French macaroon such as white truffle are a particular highlight. Being so close to Red Square it’s a great refuelling spot while on the tourist trail, while those who like to go to coffee shops to read or work will find there’s always a quiet corner to hide away in.Q Open 24hrs. €. PTLSW

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June - July 2013

Restaurants

Restaurants More Vnutry Park Sokolniki, Pesochnaya alleya, MSo-

European Cafe Correa’s B-1, Ul. Gasheka 7 bldg.1, MMayakovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 61 57, www.correas.ru. Groovy cafe food brimming with freshness and taste, this kind of place really takes you away from Russia. In the style of a neighbourhood deli, the open kitchen means you can watch everything being prepared.The waiter walks past doing bicep curls with the plates. That’s how casual it is. The leafy salads are so tasty that you will even see business men and burly gents tucking into them. The menu, which changes every Wednesday, is mouth-watering and whatever you can eat in, you can also take away. Also at Bol. Ordinka 40/2 (metro Polyanka). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVGBSW

Les Menus A-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8,

bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 05 15, www. lottehotel.ru. With a regularly changing and innovative French menu from three Michelin starred superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire, Les Menus is possibly the most exciting haute cuisine French restaurant in the city. The atmosphere and impeccable service is focused on enjoyment rather than snooty dress codes. The menu, which is packed with innovative French delights made from a fine balance of interesting ingredients not often seen in Moscow, changes all the time with Gagnaire frequently visiting Moscow to update the dishes to reflect his current inspirations. During weekdays there’s an excellent set lunch menu which changes every fortnight offering two or three courses plus tea or coffee. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. PTALEW

Tapa’ Rillas C-2, Strastnoy Bulvar 4/3 (entrance in the

yard), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 41 59, www. taparillas.ru. This brightly decorated tapas bar hidden in a grungy courtyard just off Pushkinskaya square is a super laidback venue for an informal dinner and drinks, especially at the weekends when Spanish guitarists wander the tables and diners get involved in the inevitable Gypsy Kings sing-a-long. For once the wine is more than reasonably priced, although it is easy to rack up a bill by over ordering on the generously portioned tapas plates. If you are just here for grazing its best to opt for the tasty bite size pinchos, while hungry diners may prefer to hold out for a huge paella to share. Q Open 09:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 11:00 until last guest. €€. PTABSW

Kvass Mmmm, what could be nicer than a fermented rye bread drink on a hot day? Whether it sounds appealing or not kvass, a traditional Russian soft drink, is the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this traditional soft drink parked on street corners throughout the city. Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this traditionally homemade drink is now available in supermarkets under brand names such as Klassik and Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with some cold kvass.

Moscow In Your Pocket

International Delicatessen B-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg. 2,

MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli. ru. In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

Kalina Cafe C-4, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropot-

kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe.ru. The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, late night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PALEW

MC Traders Restaurant & Bar Novotel Moscow City,

Presnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 99, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. On the ground floor of the brand new Novotel in Moscow City, the MC Traders restaurant has a great buffet with hot and cold meals ranging from French bread and cheeses to sushi to crème brûlée. It also serves international cuisine, business lunches, and their own irresistible bitesized Novotel-branded French macaroons. The large open plan space is divided into rounded white booth-like settings which complement the unusual bright minimalist design of the bar. QOpen 06:30 23:00. €€€. PTALW

Mechta D-4, Ul. Sadovnicheskaya 84, bldg. 3/7, MPave-

letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 633 21 11, www.mechta-cafe. ru. Mechta’s secret lies not so much in a creative menu as the ability to make relatively simple dishes well. Forget about mousses and reductions - how do you make a piece of toast taste so good? A place serving an all day breakfast with plush armchairs can’t help but be chilled out. Yet it also feels like a proper grown-up dining experience and bar, with a selection of appetising cocktails of cheering proportions. Then there’s the attentive staff and pleasant decor: this place pretty much ticks all the boxes. Q Open 24 hrs. €€. PTALBSW

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kolniki, tel. (+7) 903 120 76 16. Approach the peeling block building, climb an assuming flight of stairs, and you’ll be surprised to find the blue-white expanse of More Vnutri - ‘The Sea Within’, like a treehouse level with the silver birches of Sokolniki Park. As the name would suggest there’s a very faint seaside feel to it with the wooden crate loungers, incredibly spacious hall and pescetarian menu (so no meat - just fish and veggie dishes). The food is inconsistent in its value for money and not wildly adventurous, but fresh, tasty and healthy; the main draw really is the atmosphere, relaxed and casual, with hammocks strung between pillars and children zooming up and down on scooters, whilst the forest view makes it feel secluded. Their beautiful chilled-out summer terrace continues the beachy atmosphere. Alcohol is not served here but you can bring your own for a 300Rbl corkage fee. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PASW

Pelman Hand Made Cafe C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20/1,

MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 68 83, www.pel-man. ru. Filled dumplings in all their forms have got to be the world’s ultimate comfort food, and if that’s your formula for making a restaurant you would have to try pretty hard to be anything other than just great. Pelman offers more than just pelmeni there’s also vareniki and international variations on the theme such as dim sum, gyoza, ravioli and profiteroles. Whilst 200Rbl will only get you 10 or so pelmeni here, they’re doused in butter and full of wonderful calorifical things so you hopefully won’t feel too cheated. You can opt to take them away or eat in, where the jukebox will serenade you with some lively tunes. There’s also a ‘complaints wall’ which you’re welcome to write on, though we didn’t spot any criticisms on it. This could be because the restaurant’s mascot is the tattooed strongman Pelman, who judging by the photos was born with a moustache, and handy rolling pins decorate the café’s interior, presumably for dealing with dissatisfied customers. Our only complaint? Though Pelman is ostensibly ‘fast food’, it wasn’t prepared as quickly as it might have been, which on reflection is probably a sign that your chosen dumplings will be served freshly cooked, straight from the kitchen. Also at Gorky Park (Ul. Krymsky Val 9, near the Buran space shuttle, metro Oktyabrskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW

Italian Bocconcino C-2, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya,

tel. (+7) 926 926 59 26, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of taste and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine fans and hence has a strong following of faithful regular clients who have been visiting for years. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALSW

Il Forno C-2, Ul. Neglinaya 8/10, MTeatralnaya, tel.

(+7) 495 621 90 80, ilforno.ru. This very centrally located Italian restaurant has been around for years and hasn’t let down its standards or its set of regulars customers. Breakfast is popular as this is still one of the only places in this part of town where it is available at 8 a.m. and weekday afternoons are also busy when there’s 20% off the whole menu. Il Forno’s specialties are its large thin pizzas baked in their signature wood-fired oven and the homemade pasta, which inevitably leaves your mouth watering for a second helping. Also at ul. Ostozhenka 3/14 (metro Kropotkinskaya). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTALVSW

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Il Patio Volhonka C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 13a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 766 00 20, www.rosinter.ru. This is one of the more atmospheric locations of the Il Patio chain, probably because of its stunning location near the Church of the Saviour. Don’t worry - the good value pizza and pasta this branch has to offer is just the same as it is in the other 50 outlets of this popular city-wide chain. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. TAVBSW Mamma Giovanna C-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are par ticularl y delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison. Q Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALSW Mi Piace B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)

495 650 75 75, www.mipiace.ru. This pizzeria and pasta house chain has a cute brat in pigtails as its mascot. Smart interior with Iittle touches of Italy, including Sophia Loren photos and displays of pasta and preserves. Small portions perfectly suit ladies, but men will need much more than a handful of pasta to fill up. Thankfully they have mega dessert pizzas. Six city locations include: Ul. Bolshaya Ordynka 13/9, tel. (+7) 495 951 52 50 and Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 11. Q Open Mon.-Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat-Sun 12:0024:00. €€. PALVGBXSW

June - July 2013

Restaurants

Seafood

Steak Houses

Clumba Club A-3, Novinsly passage, Novinsky bul. 31,

Beeftro Steak House and Burger Bar C-1, Ul. Tsvetnoy

Sirena E-1, Ul. Bolshaya Spasskaya 15, MSukharevs-

Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALESW

MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 96 69, www.clumbaclub.ru. Europe’s largest oyster bar - and it’s here in Moscow miles away from the sea! No need to fear though, high-tech fish tanks and specialist suppliers from the Russian Far East keep everything here fresh and the very accessible prices have already earned Clumba a secure following of oyster fans. The huge menu also takes in a wide range of international dishes, many inspired by fresh seafood, that are given a great spin by the head chef who is particularly strong in his sauces. We adored the baked scallop while the muksun (a white Siberian fish) is a one of a kind Russian experience. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALEGSW kaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 14 12, www.novikovgroup. ru. Ahoy there matey - welcome aboard Moscow’s most established seafood restaurant, serving wealthy Moscow diners since 1992 and still maintaining a high reputation for flying in some of the freshest fish available. The interior is very much new Russian opulence with a fish tank floor, a wood paneled interior resembling a ship’s cabin and staff dressed in naval outfits. Admire the day’s catches in the ice beds before the chef grills them up to perfection or pick out a live lobster for the pot. Sirena’s menu also features a long list of top quality European dishes made from fabulous crab, sturgeon and scallop and more as well fresh oysters. For a 20% discount head down on weekday lunch times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAS

Food from Former Republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meatfilled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup) and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 545 43 53, www.beeftro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty goodness, Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look is bright, clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, efficient and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef is corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their excellent burger and the selection of sauces are winners. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the city’s best summer terraces and open-air bars.

Street cafes and restaurants

(+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. The good in Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is informal, relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care is put into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior plays host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear chef’s whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service. Their menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty chunk of salads and seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEBSW

After the harsh Russian winter, every restaurant and café in Moscow seizes the opportunity to soak up the summer sun and city’s streets are transformed by terraces and verandas. The famous Old Arbat (B-3 on the map) is a pedestrianised street lined with street cafes from familiar fast food chains and their less internationally well-known Russian counterparts. Less famous but possibly more charming is car-free Kamergersky pereulok (C-2, just a short walk from Red Square), filled to the brim with street side cafes and restaurants, as are all the old side-streets that weave through central Moscow. The garden boulevards are also a popular place for sitting outside and watching the world go by.

Louisiana American Steakhouse D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya

Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6,

Goodman B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 23, MPushkinskaya, tel.

3, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 42 44, www.louisianasteakhouse.com. The impressive range of steaks offered in this deep-south America themed restaurant covers two A4 pages of the menu. Ranging from the standard rib-eye steak to the deliciously tender flank steak, cuts of veal and lamb, you can choose from Australian, Irish and American, grain-fed or grass-fed too. The range of whiskies and grappas is equally impressive. Although sides such as fries have to be ordered separately, they’re not very expensive additions, and for the less devoted carnivores, a Tex-mex menu and salads are also on offer. Number plates from Kentucky, Tennessee and, of course, Louisiana, scatter the walls, which are also adorned with native American models, and one funny ‘highsociety’ marriages column from an old paper. The waiting staff compliment the theme, all wearing checked shirts, with the males having gun-holsters slung over their waistbands. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PABS

Polo club C-2, Marriott Royal Aurora, ul. Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 24, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. The refined and sophisticated Polo Club’s defining dish is its outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It needs to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12 hours. If you can’t think that far ahead the Angus, Prime and Kobe steaks on offer are also outstanding. Make sure you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has been completely revamped, taking on Asian influences which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authentic (and very spicy!) tom yam soup and a mouthwatering Asian salmon teriyaki. Q Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. PA Moscow In Your Pocket

Summer Terraces

moscow.inyourpocket.com

MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru. This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. €. PJAVBSW

Madame Boulanger B-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, (+7) 495 690 19 01. This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome to serenade the other guests on their piano. Drinks are also available to go; cakes and other tasty treats can be made to order and delivered to your door. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. moscow.inyourpocket.com

MoMo D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel: (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. This Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too narrowly - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh pasta, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served in a style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising. Its business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms, with its most spacious resembling a summer terrace, complete with wicker chairs. The other two are more low-lit and glamorous, and it is in these that MoMo’s plans to function as an exhibition space for modern photographers will come into play. Q Open 11:00 – 24:00. €€. Tsifry E-2, Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka, Ul.

Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel: (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. Set back slightly from the street on historic ul. Pokrovka is the spacious summer terrace of Tsifry restaurant from the five-star Mamaison AllSuites Spa Hotel. The five-star atmosphere also extends to the ‘summer champagne terrace’ where a special champagne menu awaits. Their design formula - large white sofas, white flowers and champagne bottle lamps - is one you can hardly argue with. On the menu are a selection of European and Russian dishes with an Italian hue. Completing the picture of summery relaxation are live jazz evenings and signature cocktails from the resident mixologist to accompany their new summer menu. Q Open 24hrs. €€€.

Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7,

MOkhotny Ryad, tel: (+7) 495 506 24 44, www.pizzasorriso.ru. The real winner here is the pizza - it’s long and incredibly thin and arrives at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. There are also other Italian favourites on offer, but we are always tempted by the pizza. The smart staff and a soundtrack that for once does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti adds yet more fresh air to the usual formula. If you are around Red Square, it’s the ideal choice for watching the world go by on the buzzing ul. Tverskaya from the shade of their summer terrace. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €.

Sukhoe – Dry Polusladkoe – Semi-sweet Sladkoe – Sweet June - July 2013

Nightlife

Restaurants Courtyard, parks and gardens

Roofs with a view

Many of Moscow best al fresco dining spots are tucked away from the city’s bustling streets. Behind 19th-century facades, courtyards shaded by trees make for perfect secluded dinners, whilst the city’s many parks are overflowing with relaxing summer cafés and bars.

If you aren’t afraid of heights and like to gaze down over the expanse of this buzzing metropolis from up high, then you are in luck, Moscow has dozens of great panoramic view terraces. From the vantage point of shiny shopping centres and hotels you can play at spotting Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’ skyscrapers with a cocktail in hand.

Pavilion B-2, Bol. Patriarshy per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 51 10, www.restsindikat.com. The white tuxedoed waiters, palm trees, period pavilion building, crisp tablecloths and various old family photos that decorate this large dining room overlooking the beautiful Patriarch’s ponds all combine to give off an elegant period feel worthy of an Agatha Christie novel and which the restaurant describes as ‘Soviet 1950s’. The menu certainly looks Soviet retro in design, but thankfully the food is all in the best traditions of rich pre-Soviet kitchens. The salads here are particularly good and should win over Russian salad skeptics. Make sure you don’t fill up too much on the huge moreish main dishes and save some appetite for one of their popular desserts. In winter you can watch as the locals skate on the frozen pond and in summer relax on the large waterside terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

Bars In Former Factories Moscow’s trendy converted factories are another great place to find interesting and unusual outdoor dining and especially drinking and partying options. The hip Red October Chocolate Factory (C-4) area has numerous outdoor cafes and bars, many of which are located on the former factory’s roofs including the famous Bar Strelka which is generally considered to be the cool crowd’s summer bar of choice. Dome Bar and the loud Zarya Bar are located in the yard next door. Once you get further into the area most of the roof top venues tend to be bars or clubs such as the Rolling Stone Bar, Reka - a live music venue with a great river view terrace and the urban beach styled club Gipsy, which also serves food and drinks during the day. Red October does not have the monopoly on cool factory bars however. Artplay, which is located in a former tea factory, boasts a huge elongated roof terrace bar with ping pong tables and sun loungers whose great view over the surrounding area is very much ‘industrial chic’. For dining Artplay also has a good restaurant called Art Clumba which has a nice courtyard terrace with a barbeque and lots of flowers (‘clumba’ meaning flower bed in Russian). The nearby Winzavod (a former wine factory now converted into numerous art galleries) has a good open-air bar/restaurant which also sometimes shows films on a giant projector screen. The former bottle factory Flacon, which is now occupied by various galleries, shops and design studios, really comes alive during the summer months. As well as numerous openair cafes, Flacon also has a small swimming pool, a large sunbathing terrace, ping pong tables and a volleyball area.

ArtPlay na Yauze E-3, Ul. Nizhnaya Syromyat-

nicheskaya 5/7, MChkalovskaya, www.artplay.ru.

Flacon Design Factory Bol. Novodmitrovskaya ul. 36, M Dmitrovskaya, www.flacon.su.

Red October Chocolate Factory C-4, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya. Q Galleries

closed on Mon. Winzavod E-3, 4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www. winzavod.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Cafe Pushkin B-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant, is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€€€. PTJAILVEBSW Conservatory Lounge and Bar C-2, Нotel Ararat Park

Hyatt Moscow, ul. Neglinnaya 4, MKuznetsky Most, tel: (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. Contemporary and cosmopolitan, the Ararat Park Hyatt is a Moscow business hotel with attitude in a fabulous location. A definite accent is put on service and luxury here; walls are made of Italian marble and soft furnishings and thick mattresses ensure a luxurious and comfortable stay. Dining options include the Armenian cafe Ararat, Park Restaurant and the Conservatory Lounge. Q Open 10:30 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €€€.

Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW Kalina Bar A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, Lotte Plaza (21st floor), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 55 19, www. kalinabar.ru. Cocktail bar and restaurant located 21 floors up on top of the swish Lotte Plaza Shopping Centre, Kalina Bar is a jet set choice. The birds eye view over the city is stunning, especially as the sun sets and the city lights flicker. The expert cocktails and fine wine selection all help the view go down even better and once the night sets in so does the house music as the beautiful crowd turn up for their aperitifs. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTAULBSW

Zafferano A-3, Lotte Plaza shopping centre, Novinsky

bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 93 05, www. zafferanorest.ru. Novinsky Boulevard might not offer the most inspiring views, but Zafferano’s bright year-round roof terrace makes up for that. Larger-than-life pot plants and sofas for lounging are complemented by the large array of salads on the international menu. Since this is Moscow you can correctly assume an additional sushi menu; the main menu offers a mix of global-influenced dishes and desserts. Eastern dishes such as dolma, plov and kebab are prepared with a twist, as are traditional Russian desserts. The biggest draw though of this neatly designed restaurant isn’t just the extensive wine list or the berry-filled puddings, but most of all its pleasant leafy terrace. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAESW

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Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. Admission prices are indicated where applicable and note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) policy applies.

Bars and Cafe Bars Bar 69 Bis C-1/2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9/8, bldg.

7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 89 84, www.bar69bis.ru. For want of a better word we would have to describe this joint as just plain random. One minute they’re playing Sting on VH1 Classic and the next, the volume has been cranked up for a pumping dubstep DJ set. Young hipsters and dreadlocked hippies share bar space with smartly dressed secretaries, alcohol is strong and occasionally homemade (ask for their nastoiki if you are looking to get drunk fast) while the décor is a mix of battered looking antiques including a massive old punching bag and a Victorian street lamp. Most curious is the dartboard. We presume it never gets used as it is tacked on to the back of the main entrance door. With low prices and the air of a genuine drinkers den, this is a place to get drunk in. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, Sat 17:00 until last guest. To book a table for Sun call (+7) 495 629 89 84. PAEBSW

Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel.

(+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry bar sports a surprisingly stylish interior, despite the now very cliche moustache theme - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, barebrick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashionable as well. During the week it’s a quiet place to hang out with a cocktail listening to some chilled out house and at weekends the music and buzz is just about funky enough to justify that pretty dance floor which sees some action past midnight. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAW

Bar Strelka C-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAULBSW British Queen C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatral-

naya, tel: (+7) 495 226 23 23. British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its sleeve – from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar, and on into the Queen Mary dining room. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical British boozer, and it boasts the welcome sight of beers from Cornwall’s St. Austell Brewery among the usual suspects on tap, closer inspection reveals it to be surprisingly Russian. Not only is the menu monolingual, it also steers away from typical pub grub in favor of the soups, salads and zakusky of a “Pivnoi Restoran”. Nothing wrong with that, but an odd decision given the Brit branding. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Cafe Bar Ekus D-1, Bol. Sukharevsky per. 25/23, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 915 106 64 66/(+7) 985 157 29 93, www.quevola.ru. Ok we have to admit this place does not look like much at all. A tiny bar, a couple of tables with plastic tablecloths and metal chairs strewn about and the odd sombrero here and there, make you feel like you’re in a very poorman’s apartment but if you are looking for Moscow’s Spanish speaking community and quality South American music, this is the place. The beer is easily the coldest in Moscow (they keep the glasses in the fridge), but the staff, clientele and inefficient air-conditioning make the place feel as hot as the owner’s native Columbia. Q Open Mon - Fri 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 until last guest. PENS Cafe Retseptor B-2, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 22/2, MAr-

batskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 66 86, www.cafereceptor. ru. Tread carefully down the steep stairs and make yourself at home in this tiny artistic cellar bar. Every inch of the place has been customised or graffitied by the regulars giving the whole ensemble a lived in and loved feel. Generally the vibe is very mellow, there’s live acoustic folk and jazz music or film screenings most nights and at the weekends they bring in funk DJs to liven things up a bit and encourage some cramped dancing. Wine is a popular tipple as are the exotic teas which come by the tankard. The varied menu is packed with fresh produce in the form of salads, pies and some lesser-known Asian specialities and has plenty of vegetarian options. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAVW

So ldom – With Ice June - July 2013

Nightlife Chelsea C-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. There’s nothing like a great British boozer, as many Moscow imitations have found to their cost. Chelsea is among the latest to attempt to translate the concept, and like most of its rivals it manages both hits and misses. A big thumbs up for the bar that greets new arrivals - dark, intimate and unpretentious, it feels like a place where fast friendships can be struck over a pint. Applause also for an extensive selection of Sunday roasts, and a well presented pint of Boddington’s bitter. But the ambience of the main dining room, with its pictures of Maggie Thatcher and the Queen Mum, somehow vaults beyond the gastropub target and lands somewhere uncomfortably close to a tea room, albeit with big screen sport on offer. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Didu D-2, Myasnitskaya ul.24, bldg.2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 13 20, www.cafe-didu.ru. For some stylistic reason everywhere from the doors to the toilet walls have been attacked by plastisine shapes crafted by idle hands into people, flowers, logos, names and other more suggestive shapes - perhaps its a hint towards the age of the average guest here, or at least their attention span. On quieter evenings it can be a nice venue for drinks with friends, albeit a little too young for some. Come weekends there’s a much more Europop vibe as the air pumps with the latest party tunes and a young sparkly crowd come to flirt and down cocktails under neon lights. Q Open 12:00-06:00 PTASW Edward’s Pub Artplay, Ul. Nizh. Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurksaya, tel. (+7) 926 358 36 76. It calls itself a pub, but this tiny place tucked under the arches at the Artplay complex is really more of a cafe which serves beer. This book-lined nook has a feel of faded English grandeur about it, and feels like an attempt to recapture a literary circle in inter-war London. That caters nicely to the artsy, studenty crowd which comes to exhibitions and shows at Artplay. Busier during the day, the food tends to the snackier end of the market and can be in short supply by evening time. However, it makes a nice alternative to Clumba, the main restaurant on this site. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu - Sun 10:00 - 06:00. €. PASW Hard Rock Cafe A-3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun. Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early and eat before you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri - Sun 24hrs. PTAEBS La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www. labottega.ru. Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAW Moscow In Your Pocket

Nightlife Look In Cafe C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 9, bldg. 1,

MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 62 95, www.citycafe. ru. Saying LookIn is a ‘cafe’ is a bit of a con. With this lighting and music volume really it’s a bar, although one of the more tame ones were office workers pop in for lunch and men eat chicken soups and drink tea in the evening. The food arrives relatively quickly and is of fair quality for the area and the same can be said of the cocktails.The music is that classic mellow mix of chilled house, which mixes oddly with the enticing rock themed posters covering the whole place. QOpen 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 06:00. ABW

Krisis Zhanra E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MKur-

skaya, tel: (+7) 495 623 25 94. Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to come early or book a table in advance. Q Open 11:30 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 05:00.

MyBar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatral-

naya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-toearth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Tuesdays and Thursdays are now live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening times have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band the Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively. PAW

Clubs B2 Club B-2, Ul. Bol. Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW

Club Garage С-5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October. Q Open 24hrs. PASW

Club Vermel D-3, Raushskaya nab. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 33 03, www.vermel.ru. Although it seems like a standard mood-lit trendy bar upon first entry, the venue is home to bands, cinema evenings and also a restaurant, all compactly organised in the brick-walled basement space. Having been open for 17 years, and with a director who’s run the place for 10 years, they have worked on some original twists to standard Moscow clubs. Alongside their britpop, rock and indie ‘vibe’, the venue is also home to weekend discos, and markets of handmade items also sporadically take place. As well as running a business lunch, the club also offers a ‘business dinner’ on Monday-Friday between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m., and menus are in both English and Russian, with some delightfully funny translations - “don’t be afraid of ordering a carp!”. Additionally, a ‘house cocktail’ containing hand-made horseradish vodka is on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAESW Gogol Club C-2, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeat-

ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PAEBSW

Photo by Anna Arinova

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Cocktail Bars BottleBar D-4, Shopping Centre Pyatnitsky, Pyatnitsky per. 2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 646 49 25, www.bottlebar.ru. As its straightforward name suggests, BottleBar isn’t trying to be a flashy high-end bar, not a hip dive bar, nothing special. What it does do is sell good, inexpensive drinks. The cocktails are some generally quite tasty and original concoctions which during their happy hours (16:00-19:00 Monday to Thursday) are definitely at ‘go on then I’ll have another one’ prices. Large groups (or foolhardy individuals) can also order sharing cocktails in giant martini glasses. Those in a desperate hurry to down as much alcohol as they can in a short space of time might find it’s not the place for them, as the service runs as what might be termed a ‘laid-back’ pace. Whilst their dark, spacious and very faintly pub-like interior doesn’t exactly radiate atmosphere, it’s pleasant enough with a few bottle-themed twists, but ultimately, it’s a bar - it’s not there for the décor. Q Open Mon - Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 until last guest, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 05:30. Closed Sun. PAESW Secret Bar C-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel: (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley off one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time! QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PAESW June - July 2013

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Red Square Lenin Mausoleum C-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad,

tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-3, Red

The Kremlin The Kremlin C-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484- 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.

Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl.

The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where ecclesiastical treasures of the Orthodox church are on display as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jewellery and clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building also often houses temporary exhibitions. The Ivan the Great Bell Tower. The impressive 60 metre high tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack in it. In recent years the the belfry has become home to a new high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over central Moscow and get a close up look at the bells. You must by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket.

Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the

Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,0002,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

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State History Museum C-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 people by prior arrangement. PAU moscow.inyourpocket.com

Must See Moscow The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the iconic domes of the magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket of the historic GUM department store, queue up early to catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing Kremlin walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars.

Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow

river is hands down the best way to see the city and get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of Moscow biggest landmarks and in the summer with some tickets you can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish.

Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to the Tretyakov Galleries. The older of the two buildings houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection at the modern building on Krymsky val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, renaissance and early 20th Century European art and tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been preserved as museums. Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Europe. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval architecture of the well cared for Kolomenskoye Museum Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s Tsaritsino. Stretching along the Moscow river Gorky Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s park and is especially loved by families, if your feet can take it the latter is also a good jumping point for a climb up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over Moscow. To the north the stately palaces of Kuskovo and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse into how Moscow’s nobility used to live in the days before communism.

June - July 2013

Sightseeing Churches and Monasteries Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10,

MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour C-3, Ul. Volkhonka

15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www. xxc.ru. This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home. Buy your candles to the left of the entrance way, photos and souvenirs to the right. The walls are decorated with lists of battles and awards. Those who perished or were awarded in the war with Napoleon in 1812 are also inscribed once more upon the walls. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call +7 495 637 28 47).

Sightseeing Donskoy Monastery Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Museums All-Russia Decorative Art Museum C-1, Ul. Delegatskaya 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over the Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out. Q Open 10.00 - 18.00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00 Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 200Rbl.Guided tours at to 15 people 1,500Rbl. Borodino Battle Panorama Museum A-3, Kutu-

zovsky pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27, www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the most famous battles in human history the Borodino Battle museum is not to be missed. It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting, 115m wide and 15m high. Standing in the middle of this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody) battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000 perished. After Borodino Napoleon took Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris. Interactive displays shed more light on the progress of the brutal battle although sadly they are only in Russian. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. Admission 20-250Rbl.

Novodevichy Cemeter y Luzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1,

Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free.

Moscow In Your Pocket

MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.

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Burganov’s House B-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per.15,

bldg. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 04 29, www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of the most inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring to it as a ‘museum’, does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s House is first and foremost the functioning workshop of Alexander Burganov, one of Russia’s most famous living sculptors. His contemporary masterpieces, which can also be seen in many European capital cities, greet you from trees, windowsills and the neighbouring buildings surrounding the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden. Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several paintings, are on display. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 60Rbl.

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June - July 2013

Sightseeing Calligraphy Museum Park Sokolniki, 5y Luchevoy Pr.

2, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel: (+7) 495 728 77 58, www. calligraphy-museum.com. This small museum in Sokolniki Park takes visitors on a global journey of this little-publicised art and shows that it is still alive and well in the days of Times New Roman and Comic Sans. Words in themselves have long held an almost sacred place in cultures throughout the world, and there’s something very mesmerising about watching calligraphy masters at work in the museum’s video display. In this exhibition we see better-known examples of calligraphy from the bold brush strokes of Chinese characters to the ornate golden free-flowing threads of Arabic, as well as Old Church Slavonic icons and modern interpretations and more obscure scripts such as the curvy forms of Georgian and the neat rounded hills of Armenian letters. Commentaries from modern calligraphers accompany their works and give an insight into why the art of writing beautifully still holds such a fascination for them. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 150Rbl.

Sightseeing Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.

City Sightseeing Bus Buses leave from 17 differ-

Free City Bus Tours C-2, main bus stop near Metropol Hotel, MTeatralnaya, +7 916 564 4274, freemoscowbus.com. Getting to grips with Moscow can be a daunting experience for a first-time visitor, especially one who finds it tricky to read the Cyrillic alphabet. So, for a quick and painless introduction into the city’s key sights, why not sit back and let a free coach tour whet your appetite for life in the Russian capital? Starting in May of this year they’ve put on regular trips around the city center, whisking guests to key points of interest and showing them some of the city’s highlights with an English-speaking guide. It won’t stretch to getting you inside all of the places on the itinerary, many of which are museums with additional admission charges, but it will give newcomers a good introduction to what can sometimes feel like an overwhelming metropolis.

Glinka State Central Museum of Musical Culture

B-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos? We recommend going for a guided tour as they’re equipped with recordings from many of the strange inhabitants of the exhibition, which makes the experience a lot richer. As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music, and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 75 - 150Rbl.

Moscow Free Tours C-3, Ul. Nikolskaya 4/5, MPloshchad Revolitsii, (+7) 495 222 34 66, www. moscowfreetour.com. Available every day at 10:45am, Moscow Free Tours offer a great way to see the city on a budget whilst finding out interesting facts and anecdotes about Moscow and its history. The tour guides are passionate and personal and are really good at engaging with those doing the tours. They really want you to have a good time because then you’re more likely to tip! The website is clearly set up and the booking process simple. The tours cover many of the main attractions Moscow, and did I mention it’s absolutely free?! Just don’t forget to book beforehand. Moscow In Your Pocket

MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig. ru. The full comprehension of the GULAG is a discomforting experience to say the least and the lack of English will do little to prevent you from being thoroughly chilled by the tragic story this museum has to tell. There are three parts; a documentary part showing the repression of different groups such as the church and the kulak peasants. Artistic responses to the GULAG from ex-prisoners adorn the walls, entrance and staircase and there is a reproduction of a GULAG barracks, punishment cell and officers rooms downstairs. The fact that this part is sealed off and the guide has to escort you here adds sobriety and realism to the exhibit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people 300 - 600Rbl per person plus admission, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 495 621 73 46.

Modern Art Centres

Pushkin Fine Arts Museum C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12,

City Tours ent stops in the city centre, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96, www.hoponhopoff.ru. You can in theory catch the distinctive red double-decker City Sightseeing bus at any one of its 18 city centre stops and hop on and off it as you please within 24 hours of the time stamped on your ticket. The bus takes around one hour to circle the city centre. An audio guide is included in the ticket price which provides a few fun facts, historical tidbits and local legends along the way in English, Russian or German, while there are also plans to add another five foreign languages to the list. Buses leave each stop approximately every 20 minutes depending on the traffic situation. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Tickets: Aduits 600Rbl, Children (5-15 years old) and Students 500Rbl, Children (those under 5 years old) free.

GULAG History Museum D-1, Ul. Petrovka 16,

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MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.

Skryabin Museum B-3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolenskaya, tel: (+7) 499 241 19 01, www.anscriabin.ru. This tiny but well-preserved museum is a must-see for amateurs of the eccentric composer Alexander Scriabin (1872-1915). Most of the original furnishings have been retained and each seems to have a story to tell. By far the most interesting of these is an unusual device made by the man himself. As a synaesthete, Scriabin associated different musical tonalities with different colours. This led him to construct some unusual contraptions which allowed him to compose pieces for piano and coloured lights, one of which can be seen in the museum. For the early days of Russian electricity this was pretty futuristic, but Scriabin had grander plans: he dreamt of a spectacular multi-media concert in the Himalayas which he imagined would usher in a new age. Before his ideas could come to fruition, he died aged forty-three from septicaemia, probably from a shaving cut. The popularity he had enjoyed during his life suddenly vanished upon his death, but in recent years his music has enjoyed something of a revival and he is known today as a highly original and compelling composer. This flat is where he spent the last three years of his life. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 20 - 120Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

MMOMA (Moscow Museum of Modern Art) C-2,

Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli (Moscow’s contemporary art guardian and self-promoter) offers an impressive introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. Other exhibition halls at Ermolaevsky per 11 (metro Mayakovskaya), Tverskoy bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 (Kropotkinskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Entrance may cost more for special exhibitions.

MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum) B-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 22, www.mdf.ru. This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 150-300Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)

495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.

June - July 2013

Sightseeing Radisson Royal River Cruise

Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A-3, Tarasa Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise. ru. The round trip journey takes two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a large restaurant with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night. Q It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats leave 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance.Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW Tchaikovsky and Moscow A-2, Kudrinskaya pl.

46/54, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 25 88/(+7) 495 691 15 14, www.glinka.museum. Dedicated to the life, times and music of the man who brought the world Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker, the operas Eugene Onegin and The Queen of Spades and of course the 1812 Overture. It‘s kind of an endless list once you get going. This Moscow apartment where he lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a collection of photos and musical memorabilia, family photos, and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. The guide and the tour are provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t understand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more than you can read about not only about Tchaikovsky but the musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various friendships are also enumerated here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100Rbl. UW

Moscow In Your Pocket

Sightseeing Writer’s museums Chekhov Museum B-2,

Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and under wen t a sprin g clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that the music lover, who lived with his mother, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 100Rbl.

Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Ul. Dostoevskogo

2, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www. goslitmuz.ru. Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg but in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower middle class upbringing and are carefully tended to by the Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. If you have the time they can philosophise about the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the 1930s as well as the desk (filled with his notes), where he wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 100Rbl.

Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21,

Meteorites in Russia

Mayakovsky Museum

One of the unexpected risks of being the world’s largest country is, apparently, that you’ve got more chance than anyone else of being hit by meteorites. If you’re wondering which of the many kinds of space rock that is, we can reveal that it’s the name for a piece of space debris that makes it through the atmosphere and lands on earth; they’re usually pretty tiny but when large ones do appear they’re sure to make the news. The world’s largest recorded meteorite event above Siberia in 1908 convinced many eyewitnesses the world was ending as it exploded with about 1000 times more energy than the nuclear bomb dropped on Hiroshima. Luckily it turned out not to be the apocalypse, and the world has gone on turning and meteorites gone on falling on the great expanses of Russia...

MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.ru. The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission foreigners 60 - 200Rbl. D-2, Lubyansky proezd 3/6, bldg. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 65 91, w w w.mayakovsky. info. An ode to surrealism, this museum is a structural rendition of Mayakovsky’s life and works and is spread out over four floors. It is a shame that tours are only available in Russian as the presentation of the exhibits is superb. From childhood, through to fame and his eventual suicide, there’s industrial installations, theatre playbills, scraps of poetry and photographs and at the end, a collection of several Soviet busts of the poet. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed, last Fri of the month. Admission 100Rbl.

Gorky Memorial Museum B-2, Ul. Mal. Nikits-

kaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the R yabushinsk y Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ s taircas e an d exquisi te carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free.

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Sikhote-Alin Meteorite

On the 12th of February 1947 the Sikhote-Alin mountains in the east of Russia were illuminated by a 26-metre-wide meteorite that appeared brighter than the sun. Its arrival was heralded by a deafening roar which could be heard for hundreds of kilometres around, and the 32km smoke trail it left behind hung in the sky for hours afterwards. The most famous image of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite is a painting by an artist named Medvedev, who happened to be sat at his window starting a sketch when the meteorite fell and was able to paint it straight away.

Chelyabinsk Meteorite

Pushkin Memorial flat B-3, Ul. Arbat 53, MSmolenskaya, tel: (+7) 499 241 22 46, www.pushkinmuseum.ru. Given Pushkin’s unfortunate demise in a duel fighting for his wife’s honour, it seems fitting that the house where he spent his honeymoon is now a memorial museum. Moving into the Arbat street house at the beginning of February, he even held his stag night here. In a bid to engender some of the atmosphere of the time, the rooms are filled with portraits of his contemporaries and letters although not a lot of Pushkin’s belongings remain in situ apart from his writing desk. The desk with his ink stand with a negro boy standing between two gold cotton bails is the star feature. English texts are provided to give a little extra clarity. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 20 - 120Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

More recently, on February 15th 2013, a ten-thousandtonne meteorite exploded in the air above the Siberian city of Chelyabinsk on a cold winter morning. Locals reported feeling an intense heat from it whilst windows all over the city smashed, causing a hurry to block them up again against the bitter -20°C cold. Nobody had managed to see the meteorite coming, which scientists suggest is because it changed course when it bounced off an asteroid and was propelled towards Earth. Of course a meteorite’s never just a meteorite - that would be boring - and theories about its origins abounded. We can be pretty sure, however, that it really was a meteorite, given the many fragments of it that were hunted down over the weeks following the impact before the next snowfall. If you’re interested in getting your hands one some of them head to the Art Salon on Starosadsky (Starosadky per. 10), where they’ve got fragments of the Sikhote-Alin and Chelyabinsk meteorites for sale.

June - July 2013

Shopping Russian Souvenirs There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring back with you from Russia. Top everyone’s list is usually a Russian doll, but there are a lot more other things worth spending your money on too.

Matryoshka’s

Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design.

Lacquer Boxes

Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist both sides of the lid.

Birch wood crafts

The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.

Biblio-Globus Bookshop Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus С-2, Ul. Myasnits-

kaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. This famous bookstore has one of the best foreign language selections in the city. On the second floor most European languages are covered, with French, English and German books making a particularly strong presence, and there’s also a limited selection of Chinese and Japanese literature. They also stock a lot of maps, Russian textbooks and Russian fairytales for kids. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW

Gifts and Souvenirs Chainy Dom Perlova D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 19, MChistye Prudy, Turgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 56/(+7) 495 624 71 02. This spectacular landmark building covered in Chinese roofs, dragons and a riot of Oriental decoration is just as elaborately decorated on the inside too. They’ve been selling tea and coffee here for over 120 years and little has changed in the presentation save for the hairstyles and clothes of the servers. The best of the East is all on offer from the spicy coffee grinds of the middle to the aromatic tea leaves of the far. It’s worth coming just to have a look (and a smell). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Prosto Tak D-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel.

+7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of t-shirts, badges and bags that make more off-beat souvenirs than the usual things to be found around Red Square. Also at Gnezgikovsky per. 12/27 (metro Pushkinskaya) and ul. Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 13/3 bldg. 3 (Kurskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AKW

Shopping Centres Evropeisky Shopping Centre А-4, Pl. Kievskogo

Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www. europe-tc.ru. Initially the layout can be disorienting but after you’ve adjusted it is well possible that you could spend whole days here. Quality restaurants and bars, saunas and health treatments, and all the European brand shops that gave the centre its very name. Bliss! The perfect hideout when you’re in need of that injection of Western culture. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. AK

Lotte Plaza A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel: (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Korean group Lotte made a strategic move when choosing this spot for this 'deluxe class' (in their words) shopping centre, a short walk to both the New and Old Arbat. Its seven floors offer all the expensive handbags and shoes you could dream up, whilst in the basement is high-end, highly priced supermarket Azbuka Vkusa selling a large range of tasty goods and all the food items it can still be a struggle to find in Russia. It also has a number of restaurants in a suitably glamourous style, some with roof terraces. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Metropolis shopping center Leningradskoye shosse 16/4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www. metropolis-center.ru. The western style mall to beat all other western style malls that are dotted around across Moscow. What makes this one so great? It’s filled with high street brands, a massive supermarket, has a bowling alley, pool hall and cinema on the top floor and, best of all, it is right next to the metro. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Okhotny Ryad С-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad,

tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need - it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. There’s also a small Sedmoi Kontinent supermarket on the ground floor (entrance from Alexandrovsky gardens). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

BUSINESS directory

EXPAT AND lifestyle

Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capital and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.

Business Clubs and assosiations

Accountants and Consultants

noproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce E-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club (HIT Club) D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.

Deloitte A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com.

Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1,

MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) Business Centre Belaya Ploschad (White Square), Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.

Banks Citibank C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 6, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 75 75, www.citibank.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 91 00, raiffeisen.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Choosing Where To Live

Frunzenskaya

This area stretches along the Moscow River and is one of the greenest and calmest in Moscow, making it a great choice for families or for those who like jogging. Housing is mostly in large Stalin-era buildings with tallceilings or in pre-revolutionary houses. The area offers a great variety of outdoor entertainment such as Gorky Park, the Luzhniki Olympic sports complex, the Novodevichy convent and the beautiful little Mandelstam Park (officially renamed Usadba Trubetskih). Popular residential buildings: The monumental Stalinist style buildings on Frunzenskaya nab., Kamelot (Komsomolsky 32) a large modern building with a fitness centre and up-market grocery store, Obolensky 9, another modern building next to the Mandelstam park and the new Luzhniki House which offers quality furnished apartments with underground parking and access to sports facilities. What the residents say: “I fell in love with our apartment the moment we walked through the door - beautiful parquet floors and chandeliers as you expect from the 1930s-40s, yet unpretentious and functional too. Recently Frunzenskaya has really come to life with the development of the cinema complex above the metro and the availability of family friendly parks, including those servicing the soviet blocks around them makes the area very sociable.” Written in collaboration with Intermark Relocation B-4, Kropotkinsky per. 7, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarkrelocation.ru

Moscow In Your Pocket

Association of European Businesses A-1, Ul. Kras-

Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (DeutschRussische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-5, 1-y Ka-

zachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www. vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul. Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club , www.britishclub.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscowirishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

Real Estate and Relocation Intermark Relocation В-4, Kropotkinsky per. 7,

bldg.1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www. intermarkrelocation.ru. When relocating abroad, setting up a home is a key priority to help make sure that you settle into expat life comfortably and this British relocation consultancy firm have been helping out foreigners who are moving to Russia for more than 16 years. They promise a comprehensive service dealing with all elements of documentation and rental leases as well as offering invaluable advice and experience on what areas of the city are desirable for living in and what they offer in terms of amenities and services. They also offer ‘settling in assistance’ (helping you sort out those basics like your driving licence, furniture, insurance etc), schooling services, tenancy management and departure packages for when it’s time to move on. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A

Just as living costs might be high in Moscow, so is liveability. This is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you’re looking to expand your network or are looking for services that remind you of home, take a look here. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at russia@inyourpocket.com.

Expats Clubs American Women’s Organisation, awomoscow@ gmail.com, www.awomoscow.org.

Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI)

tel. (+7) 916 825 3352, auskirussia@gmail.com, www. gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club, info@bwcmoscow.co.uk, www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. Dutch Community, nvm.russia@gmail.com, www. nederlandse-vereniging-moskou.ru. International Women’s Club, iwcmembership@gmail. com, www.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations, www.internations.org/expats/home/ russia/moscow. Moscow Hash House Harriers, tel. (+7) 985 364 99 36, moscowharriers.itgo.com. Moscow International Choir, moscow.international. choir@gmail.com.

MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) www.moskultinfo.de. Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club), www. site-moskva-accueil.org.

Nigerian Community Russia, nigeriancommunity@

yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru.

Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya

nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87, www.rcmi.ru.

SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association), moskva@swea.org, www.swea.org.

Tax and Legal Services Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-5, Ul.

Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Services specialisists. Deals with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax compliance and company registration, full cycle legislations and legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Translating and Interpreting Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul. Nizhnaya 14, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Business Dictionary accountant meeting traffic jam pass business trip contract

бухгалтер встреча пробка пропуск командировка договор

bugalter vstrecha probka propusk komandirovka dogovor

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The Expat Experience

Religious Services Big Choral Synagogue D-3, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception A-2, Ul. Malaya Gruzinskaya 27/13, MKras-

nopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www. catedra.ru.

Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul

D-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 58 20, peterpaul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 28, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 945 951 84 48, www. manar.ru. Moscow Buddhist Centre Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 61 46, www.mantra.ru.

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism

Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MPloshad Ilicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org.

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Tell us something about yourself? My name is Daniel Rolett. I’m 46 year old American, am married to Tania, a wonderful lady I met in Moscow and we have a son named Matvey. I first visited Moscow during the Soviet Era in 1984 with my Grandfather, who emigrated to the U.S. From Russia in 1921. I returned in 1989 for an exchange year at Leningrad State University. My first job out of University was to assist in the opening of the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory and scoop shops in Russia, a period during I witnessed the dissolution of the Soviet Union. After working for multinational FMCG companies in Marketing, I started out on my own in 2004, founding what has now become a network of small hotels and tourist services in Moscow. Where do you like to spend your free time? During the summer I love to ride my bicycle in Gorky Park and Vorebovy Gori park. Following the renovation of Gorky Park it has become rather impressive with summer food courts, sand beaches and grass lawns. Year-round I play tennis twice a week at the courts near Frunzenskaya. What are your favorite restaurants, bars, clubs, and why? One of my favorite restaurants is Deti Raika, started by Alexei Paperny, the singer, club owner and restaurateur. The food is great, with an Italian chef. I also enjoy Cafe Mart in the courtyard of the Museum of Modern Art. Their sculpture garden in the back is the best way to enjoy a summer evening. If you could give an award to something or someplace or someone in the city what or who would it be? Sergei Shpilko and Georgy Mokhov from the Committee for Tourism of Moscow. Since they took over management 3 years ago there have been some rather dramatic, positive changes in the promotion and management of tourist services in Moscow. Do you have any recommendations for places outside of Moscow? Archhangelsk, the former Yusupov estate, is a magical place to visit. The grounds dramatically overlook the old Moscow river. You can walk through the original sculpture garden, see the old palace and walk the extensive grounds.

June - July 2013

Getting Around

EXPAT AND Lifestyle Hairdressers and beauty salons

Cultural & Educational Centres

Buying Train Tickets

Expat Salon В-2, Maly Patriarshy per. 3, MTverskaya,

The American Center in Moscow E-3, Ul. Nikoloy-

For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. Other options are to buy through a ticket or travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other than a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket.

tel. (+7) 495 650 37 47, www.expatsalon.ru. Probably one of few places in Moscow where you won’t walk out with a haircut you didn’t ask for. And why is that? Well, they speak English. The full range of features on offer make their services read something like an elaborate menu, from a standard hair cut in one of their state-of-the-art massage chairs to your usual mani-pedi and Thai massage. Thankfully they offer helpful, free consultations so you can decide what you need beforehand. To make the experience extra comfortable they offer complimentary drinks as well as ipads and portable DVD players to clients, so you can relax whilst the professionals do their thing. Bookings for all services are essential. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PTAW

International Schools/Preschools The English International School (NEI Magister)

Zeleny pr. 66A, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT and sport. The school works hard towards organising engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs and school trips. There is also a second primary school (ages 3-11) located in west Moscow at Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Kuntsevskaya. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Fryday in Moscow Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, Moscow is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where FryDays comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The Moscow edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original FryDays founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see www.facebook.com/fryday.moscow/info.

Russian for Expats “Sobaku s’est’” – “to eat the whole dog” Usually used in the past tense, as in “sobaku s’el” or “ate the whole dog”, this seemingly bizarre expression means to have gained a skill, a great amount of experience, or mastery in a certain field. First recorded by V. I. Dahl, the original phrase was “to eat the dog, but choke on the tail”, denoting someone was carrying out a very difficult task but failed because of a small trifle. The phrase’s origin is still disputed; some say it comes from times of great hunger when those who were masters of survival would even eat dogs to stay alive. Liden & Denz A-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

amskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:45, Sat 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun. British Council E-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 01, www.britishcouncil. org/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Break 13:00-14:00 Canadian Centre E-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/ lrn/deindex.htm. Neso Russia E-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 23, www.nesorussia. org. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Medical and Dental Clinics American Medical Centres D-1, Prospekt Mira, 26, bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24hrs. A European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonievsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 933 66 55, www. emcmos.ru. QOpen 24hrs. A

US Dental Car e

C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, M Teatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Well-established and long-respected American Boardcertified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PAW

Swimming, Bowling and Billiards Chaika swimming pool Turchaninov per 3, bldg. 1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 13 44, www.chaykasport.ru. Easily one of Moscow’s most atmospheric swimming pools. Chaika has two outdoor pools (one 25 metre and one 50 metre) surrounded by benches to chillout on if it’s not -10 outside, as well as an indoor cafe. Be aware that you will need to buy a spravka (medical certificate) at the entrance after a quick two minute examination of your feet, blood pressure etc before you will be allowed to swim. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 19:30. Admission from 600Rbl per hour.

Champion Bowling Metropolis shopping centre,

Leningradskoye shosse 16, MVoikovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 747 50 00, www.champion.ru. Large modern ten-pin bowling club located at the top of the huge Metropolis mall. As well as very good quality bowling lanes, Champion also has a sports bar and pool tables. For little kids there is a large indoor play area nearby (play area closes at 20:00). Q Open 15:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00.

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Train Stations Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station A-1, MBelorusskaya, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Kazansky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, kazanskiy. railclient.ru. Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station A-4, MKievskaya, kievskiy.railclient. ru. As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Kursky Station E-3, MKurskaya, kursky-vokzal.ru Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg. Paveletsky Station D-5, M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Yaroslavsky Station E-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaroslavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all the way to Vladivostok.

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental, tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz A-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Getting around Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking

Gdye…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalyevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto

Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilyet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchon Ne kurit Не курить

Public Transport Moscow’s system of buses, trams and trolleybuses, as well as its world-famous metro, can now all be used with just one united ticket that is valid for all forms of transport and which can be bought in the metro ticket offices. It’s definitely worth getting a multi-journey ticket (you can get 11 journeys for 300Rbl) as it both saves money and is simple and convenient. If you need to buy single journeys you can get them once on the bus or tram and it costs 30Rbl. Make sure you get on the bus/tram/ trolleybus from the front so you can pass the ticket-operated turnstile. The metro is fast and efficient and is the second busiest in the world after Tokyo - you’ll rarely have to wait long for a train. Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!) Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru.

Taxis The powers that be are now hard at work trying to better regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for you the passenger. However, as can be true anywhere in the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be unscrupulous and over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc try to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to book a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia, with many locals still preferring to flag down ordinary cars as part of an unofficial informal taxi service. Since 2011 the unofficial taxi service has been made illegal and drivers can be fined for ferrying people around the city for cash, although due to a continuing lack of official taxis in the city the practice still thrives. To foreigners travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe and you certainly should exercise caution if you decide to opt for the Lada experience. Stand by the road and stick out your arm - not your thumb. Be cautious, trust your instincts and always agree a price in advance. Such drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners - a journey within the city centre should usually cost anything between 250 and 500Rbl. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. If you are looking to pick up a taxi at the train station, head to the RZD taxi booth. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter trips around the city centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl.

Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www.tshanson.ru.

Formula Taxi tel. (+7) 495 777 57 77 moscow.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

Getting Around

Getting Around Street Register

ПЯТНИЦКОЕ ШОССЕ PYATNITSKOE SHOSSE

АЛМА-АТИНСКАЯ ALMA-ATINSKAYA

freemo s Tel.: +7 cowbus.com (916) 5 64-42-7 4 Moscow In Your Pocket

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1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 A Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1/2 Alexandra Nevskogo ul. А/B-1 Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-4 Apakova pr. C-4 Arbat ul. B-3 Armyansky per. D-2 B Bakhrushina ul. D-5 Balchug ul. D-3/4 Bernikovskaya nab. E-3 Bersenevskaya nab. C-4 Bobrov per. D-2 Bogoyavlensky per. C/D-3 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-3/4 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-2 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-4 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1/2 Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Bol. Kazenny per. E-2 Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. E-2 Bol. Kiselny per. C/D-2 Bol. Kislovsky per. C-3 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Bol. Kozlovsky per. E-2 Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-2 Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-3 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-3 Bol. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-2 Bol. Patriarshy per. B-2 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-4/5 Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-5 Bol. Spasskaya ul. E-1 Bol. Staromonetny per. C-4 Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-5 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. D-1 Bol. Sukharevsky per. D-1 Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-4/5 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-5 Bol. Tishinsky per. A-1 Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-4 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-5 Bol. Znamensky per. B-3/4 Bol. Levshinsky per. B-4 Bolotnaya nab. C-4 Bolotnaya pl. C-4 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-3/4 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-3 Brestskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Brestskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Brodnikov per. C-4/5 Butikovsky per. B-4 C Chayanova ul. B-1 Chistoprudny bul. D/E-2 Chisty per. B-4 D Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-5 Dokuchaev per. D-1 Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Dubininskaya ul. D-5 Durasovsky per. E-3 Durova ul. C-1 E Ermolaevsky per. B-2 Eropkinsky per. B-4 F Fadeeva ul. B-1 Filippovsky per. B-3 Furmanny per. E-2 G Gagarinsky per. B-4 Gazetny per. C-2/3 Gilyarovskogo ul. D-1 Glazovsky per. A/B-4 Gogolevsky bul. B-3/4 Golikovsky per. D-4

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Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-4 Goncharnaya nab. E-4 Goncharnaya ul. E-4 Goncharny per. (2y) E-4 Gorokhovsky per. E-2 Granatny per. B-2 Grokholsky per. D-1 Gusyatnikov per. D-2 I Ilinka ul. C-3 Ipatyevsky per. D-3 K Kadashevskaya nab. C-4 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-4 Kalanchevskaya ul. E-1 Kalashny per. B-3 Kazachy per. (1y) C-5 Kazachy per. (2y) C-5 Kazakova ul. E-2 Kazansky per. C-5 Kazarmeny per. E-3 Khilkov per. B-4 Khlebny per. B-3 Khokhlovsky per. D/E-3 Khvostov per. (1y) C-5 Kievskaya ul. A-4 Klimentovsky per. D-4 Kolpachny per. D-2/3 Kompozitorskaya ul. A/B-3 Komsomolskaya pl. E-1 Komsomolsky pr. F-6 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2/3 Koptelsky per. (1y) D-1 Korobeynikov per. B-4 Korovy Val ul. C-5 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D/E-4 Kostyansky per. D-1 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D/E-4 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-4 Kozitsky per. C-2 Krasina ul. A/B-1, B-2 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-3 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-3 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. E-1 Kremlevskaya nab. C-3 Krivokolenny per. D-2 Kropotkinsky per. B-4 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-5 Krutitskaya nab. E-5 Krymskay nab. B-5 Krymsky proezd B-5 Krymsky Val. B/C-5 Kursovoy per. B/C-4 Kutuzovsky pr. A-3 Kuznetsky most ul. C/D-2 L Lavrsky per. C-1 Lavrushinsky per. C-4 Leninsky pr. F-6 Leontievsky per. B-2 Lesnaya ul. A-1 Lubyansky proezd D-2 Lyalin per. E-2/3 M Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1/2 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-2 Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Mal. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-5 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. D-1 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-4 Mal. Znamensky per. B/C-3 Manezhnaya pl. C-3 Manezhnaya ul. C-3 Marksistskaya ul. E-4 Maronovsky per. C-5 Maroseyka ul. D-2/3 Mashkova ul. E-2

Merzlyakovsky per. B-3 Milyutinsky per. D-2 Miusskaya pl. B-1 Mohovaya ul. C-3 Molochny per. B-4 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-5 Moskvoretskaya nab. D-3 Myasnitskaya ul. D-2 Mytnaya ul. C-5 N Neglinnaya ul. C-2 Nikitsky bul. B-3 Nikitsky per. C-2/3 Nikoloyamskaya ul. E-3/4 Nikolskaya ul. C-2/3 Nikolsky per. D-3 Nizhnyaya Krasnokholmskaya ul. E-4/5 Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Novaya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Novaya pl. D-2 Novinsky bul. A-2/3 Novokrymsky pr. B-5 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-4/5 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-5 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-5 Novoryazanskaya ul. E-1 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-3 O Obydensky per. (2y) B-4 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2/3 Olympysky pr. C-1 Ostozhenka ul. B-4/5 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. D-4 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-4 Ozerkovsky per. D-4 P Paveletskaya pl. D-5 Petrovka ul. C-2 Petrovsky bul. C-1/2 Petrovsky per. C-2 Pyzhevsky per. C-4 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Plotnikov per. B-3 Plyushchikha ul. A-4 Podkolokolny per. E-3 Podsosensky per. E-3 Pogorelsky per. C-5 Pokrovka ul. D/E-2 Pokrovsky bul. E-3 Pomerantsev per. B-4 Posledny per. D-1 Potapovsky per. D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2/3 Pozharsky per. B-4 Prechistenskaya nab. C-4 Prechistensky per. B-4 Presnensky val ul. A-1/2 Prospekt Mira D-1 Pushechnaya ul. C/D-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-5 Pushkinskaya pl. C-2 Pyatnitskaya ul. D-4 Pevchesky per. D-3 R Raushskaya nab. D-3 Romanov per. C-3 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C/D-2 Runovsky per. D-4 Rybny per. C-3 S Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. B/C-1 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. A/B-2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. E-1/2 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B-1 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-3/4 Sadovnichesky proezd D-3 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1 Serebryanicheskaya nab. E-3

Shchepkina ul. D-1 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. B-3 Skatertny per. B-2/3 Smolensky bul. A-4 Smolenskaya ul. A-4 Sofiyskaya nab. C-3 Soymonovsky proezd B-4 Solyanka ul. D-3 Spasonalikovsky per. (1y) C-5 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-2 Sretenka ul. D-1 Sretensky bul. C-1 Stanislavskogo ul. C-2 Staraya pl. C-3 Starokonnyushenny per. B-3/4 Staromonetny per. C-4 Starosadsky per. D-2/3 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-4 Stoleshnikov per. C-2 Stolyarny per. A-2 Strastnoy bul. C-1/2 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1 Sytinsky per. B-2 T Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-3 Tatarskaya ul. D-5 Teatralny proezd C-2 Teterinsky per. E-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1 Trubnaya ul. C-1 Trubnikovsky per. A/B-3 Tryokhprudny per. B-2 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1 Tverskaya ul. B-1/2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) A/B-1 Tverskoy bul. B -2 U Usacheva ul. F-6 Ustyinsky pr. D-3/4 V Valovaya ul. D-5 Varsonofyevsky per. C/D-2 Varvarka ul. C-3 Vasilyevsky spusk pl. D-3 Vasilyevskaya ul. A/B-1 Vasnetsova per. C-1 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya ul. E-4 Verkhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-3 Volhonka ul. C-3/4 Vorontsovo pole E-3 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-4/5 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-3 Voznesensky per. B-2 Vspolny per. B-2 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-4 Yakimansky proezd C-4 Yauzsky bul. E-3 Z Zemlyanoy Val ul. E-2/3/4 Zhitnaya ul. C-5 Zhukovskogo ul. E-2 Znamenka ul. B/C-3 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-1/2 Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

June - July 2013

Getting Around

Moscow In Your Pocket

Getting Around

moscow.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

Getting Around

Moscow In Your Pocket

Getting Around

moscow.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

Russia

st. petersburg

History 9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Introduction Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment – and attention – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Spring is a wondrous time to make a visit as the snow packs melt, the sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and celebrations on offer. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected St. Petersburg, plus three provincial cities. St. Petersburg, of course, needs no introduction, but pay attention to our feature on the parks & palaces surrounding St. Peterburg. The other three cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan and the host of the Summer 2013 Universiade; Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin and Nizhny Novgorod, Russia’s fifth largest city located on the banks of the mighty Volga river. In St. Petersburg please look for our print guide in hotels or check us out online and download our free iPhone app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/st-petersburg

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Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year. For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The State Hermitage Museum With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva river, the Hermitage is quite simply one of the greatest museums in the world. Give yourself plenty of time to take it all in as you wind your way through the opulent state rooms of the Winter Palace. The museum’s vast art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse and the gang are all up on the top floor while the ‘small Hermitage’ wing contains a priceless collection of Greek, Roman, Persian and Egyptian artefacts.

Hermitage Dvor tsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl.

Ballet and Opera St. Petersburg has a very strong ballet and opera tradition and is home to one of the world’s most celebrated theatres, the Mariinsky Theatre, headed by superstar maestro Valery Gergiev. If you can’t get a ticket for the Mariinsky then head instead for one of the performances at the highly respected Mikhailovsky Theatre.

Churches and Cathedrals Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. ULK Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl.

Luxury Train to St. Petersburg If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:20 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

Mariinsky Theatre Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Q Admission 300-6,000Rbl.

Mikhailovsky Theatre Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Q Ticket office: daily 11:00 - 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00.

Grand Philharmonic Hall Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2,

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.

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June - July 2013

st. petersburg

st. petersburg - PETERHOF Getting to St. Petersburg There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Hotels Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via

Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www. accorhotels.com/5679. hhhh

Restaurants Levin Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. QOpen 12:00 -

24:00. €€. PTAGSW Marcelli’s Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru.Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW Palkin Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEBW

Galeria Galeria Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTALK

St Petersburg’s Historical Outskirts Visit the grand palaces and parks of the Tsars. No visit to St Petersburg would seem complete without seeing Peter the Great’s famous masterpiece of gold fountains and all things shiny, Peterhof. But south of the ‘Venice of the North’ and along the Finnish Gulf surely must be the region of the world most densely populated with palaces, each with its own splendour to rival Peter’s Summer Palace. These are undeniable symbols of the decadence and absolute power of the Tsars. They are each as different as the tastes and fancies of those who owned them, from austere palaces and immaculate lawns to rolling parkland and landscaped gardens full of surprises. In this feature we’ve picked out the best parks, palaces and attractions and focus on the Russian Versailles, Peterhof. There’s more to be said about them then could ever fit in our guide book - explore them for yourself!

Palaces Fit for a Tsar Much as any self-respecting Russian billionaire wouldn’t be seen dead without the latest tablet computer and state-ofthe-art yacht controlled by smartphone app, Russian nobility settled for only the best in modern innovation and wizardry. Built at the start of the 18th century, Peterhof’s legendary fountains were an engineering marvel of their time, powered entirely by cleverly manipulated water pressure without the need for pumps. The Alexander Palace in Pushkin (built 1792-96) was early on electrified and telephones were installed; there was even an early lift that went between the children’s rooms and the Empress’s suite, and a ‘home cinema’ in the Semicircular Hall came later. Another innovation was the first railway in Russia, built in 1837 between Vitebsky Vokzal (then Tsarskoselsky) and Pushkin. At first carriages were drawn by horses taking wealthy residents of the capital to their summer homes in the imperial suburbs.

More than just a transfer point, however, the Vitebsky station pavilion was a destination in itself and billed as an entertainment centre named the Vauxhall Pavilion, a title later morphed into the term vokzal and adopted to mean any significant railway station. Johann Strauss II and Franz Liszt can be counted among the performers in the late 1830s. The stations at Pavlovsk and particularly in Pushkin are noteworthy for their beautiful art nouveau decoration and elegant chandeliers and mosaics.

Getting to Peterhof Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf and can be reached in about 45 minutes to literally hours depending on the state of traffic in the city and if you are coming right from the centre or somewhere a bit further out. Although it is easy and cheap enough to get there by yourself on public transport many people prefer to arrange to go with a tour group to eliminate any hassle of having to wait for a bus/train and to see all the sites in as quick a time as possible. The most popular and exciting way to get there though is by hydrofoil right from the city centre.

By bus: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets). By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to

Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses No 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains.

By hydrofoil: Peterhof Express. The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Palace) Bridge. Seating is airline style, with leather upholstery and more than ample legroom. Between cabins, there is a partially open viewing area that is as picturesque as it is windy. Toilets available on board. See more: www.peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof where the fountains are situated. Moscow In Your Pocket

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June - July 2013

st. petersburg - PETERHOF Peterhof Must-Visits

To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. The exterior of the Great Palace is surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, Russian and French architects alike. It goes without saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she hired Bartolemeo Rastrelli, an architect whose fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less a building than the Hermitage. To call the interiors merely opulent would be a mistake. Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome of this idea. Of particular note is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a frigate exploded in an Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction. The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny stuff.. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. The centre piece is a giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to a round of spot the my thological heroes while you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. Almost every Greek god you can think of is up on a pedestal here. All of the palace’s 173 fountains, jets, water arches, sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.

Moscow In Your Pocket

st. petersburg - PETERHOF

No expenses were spared in designing the interiors and exteriors of their homes, and all passing European fads were catered to. The Catherine Palace in Pushkin, built in its currently form in 1756 under orders from Empress Elizabeth, used a hundred kilograms of gold for the facade and was so insanely lavish that even Catherine the Great thought it was a bit much. And the most ridiculous and stunning bit of all was the Amber Room, famed for its beauty and once named ‘the eighth wonder of the world’ (though that might have been a slight exaggeration). It was decorated with over six tonnes worth of amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors. After failing to successfully remove it before German forces arrived they covered it with wallpaper hoping nobody would notice, but of course the Germans had heard of it - before being installed here it lived in Berlin. It only took the Germans 36 hours to take apart. After being put on show in Königsberg (now Kaliningrad) nobody knows quite where it went, some say buried in a mine, others say on a sunken submarine. Whilst the fate of the original Amber Room remains a mystery, great efforts have been made to recreate it with the help of a generous benefactor, and it can now be seen at the palace once again in all its full glory. Of course no luxury palace would be complete without immaculate gardens in the latest styles. Peter was inspired by formal French styles at Peterhof, whilst at Pavlovsk the English landscape garden with sweeping lawns, lakes and pavilions was the flavour of the day. All sorts of exotic cultures had their moment in high fashion. The Catherine Park is a testament to this and is brimful of quirky bridges and stylized buildings. One of the largest is the ‘Chinese Village’, originally based on one of Catherine the Great’s engravings, consisting of ten tiny houses and a theatre. Fake romantic-looking ruins, Egyptian and Greek temples, Dutch castles, an entire miniature world tour could be taken around the palace grounds.

Hotels

Restaurants and cafes

Baltic Star Strelna, Beryozovaya al. 3, tel. (+7) 812 438

Bavarian Restaurant New Peterhof Hotel, St. Peterburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www.new-peterhof. com. Heads up: this isn’t, apart from a few German beers and a couple of sausages, a Bavarian restaurant. In actual fact it’s a blend of European and Russian with some original additions. A far cry from what you might have expected from the name, it’s got a large range of health-oriented options on its ‘fitness menu’ and lists the calorie content of each dish on the menu so you know exactly what you’re letting yourself in for. Neatly presented dishes range from fresh vegetabley starters to rich mains and a chocolate brownie for pudding. The simple dark wood decor underlines the large bright windows which look out onto the nearby ponds and attractive St Peter and St Paul Cathedral. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALW

57 00, www.balticstar-hotel.ru. This grand hotel complex, located on the picturesque Gulf of Finland, offers extensive services and fine hospitality. Their facilities for guests on business are no less complete, with fully-equipped conference rooms and a business centre offering secretarial and translation services. There are also 20 villas, each with coastal views, choice enough for the Presidents and their spouses to stay during the G8 summit. Rooms ranging from standard to deluxe are inviting with quality furnishings in red or blue with buff. The Presidential Suite is exactly that; fit for a President to lay his or her head. Q (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Breakfast 640Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDCW

New Peterhof Hotel St. Peterburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www.new-peterhof.com/en. Without a doubt one of the most modern hotels in Peterhof, with all amenities one could wish for. At a relative short distance from St. Petersburg it is an ideal place to visit the famous palace and park and relax in the suburban atmosphere in the small town. Rooms are light and spacy with large windows some of which look straight out at the impressive Peter & Paul Cathedral, which is located right next to the hotel. The hotel boasts a spa with large swimming pool, conference rooms and two restaurants. The Bavarian one comes highly recommended, also because of the huge windows that look out over the nearby pond. New Peterhof is part of an international hotel-chain and service is friendly and welcoming. The main entrance hall might look a bit odd at first, but serves as a central alley inside the hotel. It has won two architectural prices as well as a Golden Diploma for a eco-friendly hotel. Q (Room prices start at 3,000Rbl). PTHAUFLGKDCW

Lindstrem’s dacha Strelna, ul. Glinki 7А, tel. (+7) 812 438 58 31, www.dachalindstrema.ru. Dining in style in a historical setting is what the restored Dacha Lindstrom is all about. It was here that in 2003 former President George W. Bush and his wife met for informal dinners with President Putin and his First Lady. The restaurant is located just off the grounds of the Constantine Palace and serves a wide range of well-prepared and presented dishes. Don’t worry, the prices are not as high as you might expect and the quality of the food is of great value. On the upper floors is a quaint little museum dedicated to the G8 Summit that took place here in 2003 and also showcases personal gifts to Vladimir Putin. Unfortunately, it is closed until after the G20 meetings in September of this year. The word is that world leaders will again wine and dine here and therefore the museum will get a bit of a facelift. It’s a good pit stop when visiting the nearby palace. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €€. PTALW

Happily Ever After? Strangely enough, we owe much about the estates’ current condition to the Soviets, who uncharacteristically looked kindly on this part of Tsarist history, starting to rebuild them straight after the war. Aleksei Shchusev, the architect of the Lenin Mausoleum, said: “If we do not do this, we who know and remember these palaces in all their glory as they were, then the next generation will never be able to reconstruct them.” It was quite a hunt to track down where the palaces’ furniture and other items had got to - some had got as far as Latvia and even beyond. Strolling around any of the palaces or parks you can appreciate what a momentous task the restoration of these historic sites was, especially without the unlimited workforce and bottomless wallets of the Tsars.

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veliky novgorod

veliky novgorod Eating and drinking Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the

theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. Q Open Sun - Thur 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESW

Greensleeves Irish Pub Ul. Velikaya 5/2, tel. (+7) 8162 775 557. This tiny little box of an Irish pub, the pride and joy of jolly owner Yuri is a breath of fresh air (metaphorically speaking of course - it’s still very smokey in there) in quiet Veliky Novgorod. If you thought that Russians didn’t understand the concept of a friendly small town pub experience, come here and prepare to be surprised. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €. PALES

Veliky Novgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod Kremlin

The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Getting There There is just one daily long distance train to Veliky Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky station at 21:50 arriving in Veliky Novgorod at 06:10. Trains return to Moscow at 21:20 arriving at 05:30.

veliky-novgorod.inyourpocket.com Moscow In Your Pocket

Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office

The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.

Where to stay Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s also an ‘art nightclub’. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas. Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PW Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636 307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 816 222 55 05, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Their restaurant is one of the best in town and on weekends has live music. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,050Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. PHALGKDCW hhh moscow.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2013

kazan

kazan Exhibition Hall Manege Kremlin, MKremlevskaya,

tel. (+7) 843 567 80 67, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. This exhibition hall is located in the Kremlin’s former stables and regularly hosts photography and painting exhibitions from local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.

Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage museum. Until 27 May 2012 the centre is showing a stunning exhibition of more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artifacts from Spain dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature and alongside the stunning art, there’s also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Fri 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon. Tickets 50-120Rbl. Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.

Kazan

Kazan Kremlin

Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city (as accords their official slogan) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a mosque and an Orthodox cathedral and in recent years the whole city has been beautified and restored in preparation for the 2013 Summer Universiade. For those looking to see where European and Asian Russia meet and enjoy a glimpse into one of the country’s most vibrant non-Slavic republics, there’s probably no better starting point than Kazan. The undoubted must see place in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve done the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in.

The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many vendours selling local souvenirs.

Getting There By Train: There are six trains a day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya). From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7 are the main (and safest) airlines offering international transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow. Moscow In Your Pocket

Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. In the 1990s concerted restoration work began and in summer 2005 the cathedral once again began to accept worshipers as it returned to its function as a working place of worship. The interior painting and iconostasis are mostly modern although many of the icons which were donated to the cathedral date back centuries. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the river.

(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as Europe’s largest mosque. The Qol Sharif largely functions as a museum although thousands of Muslims do gather here to pray on major religious holidays.

Where to stay Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla

Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru. New 4 star international hotel sitting directly in the shadow of Kazan’s fabulous Kremlin. Dining facilities include the Mediterranean grill restaurant and a stunning roof top bar with a bird’s eye view over the Kremlin the river. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). PTHAUFGBKW hhhh

Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul.

43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com. Great budget destination in a very central location. Kazan’s main walking street filled with restaurants and bars (ulitsa Baumana) is just around the corner and the hotel itself looks out over one of the city’s canals. The interior is the signature light and breezy Ibis with dining in the brand’s mainstay European restaurant Sud i Cie. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). PHA6ULKW hhh

Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya,

tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Large and colourful, this hotel wears its Park Inn standard primary colour scheme with pride. Dining is in the RBG Stone Grill restaurant while cocktails are also served in the lounge. The location is not entirely central although it is close to the widely expanding Vakhtikovsky area where much of Kazan’s older Islamic influenced architecture is located. Q151 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL� GKW hhhh

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Photo by Pavel Hellsing

Eating and drinking Beer Lozha Ul. Pushkina 5, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 24 36, www.ofsrussia.ru. A large Bavarian style beerhouse serving quality brews by the litre and German sausages and other meaty fare on huge wooden platters. It can get loud at the weekend, especially when the live bands kick in, but there’s also often the chance to win free beers and other prizes. The heavy wooden décor is complemented by quirky extra details such as light fittings made from beer kegs while the large windows ensure Beer Lozha maintains a light and modern edge. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW Dom Tatarskoy Kulinary Ul. Baumana 31/12, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 35 20, domtk. ru. Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent with bold Tatar colours and patterns. Popular with Kazan’s business community and those in government. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAEW

Sultan Kebab Ul. Baumana 74, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 26 75. It’s certainly not the most exotic cuisine in Kazan and the quality is just above fast food, but you could also do far worse for these prices. Sultan Kebab is in fact a Turkish joint although local Tartar dishes also feature alongside the usual kebabs dripping in garlic sauce. Service is quick and you can watch everything being freshly grilled on the barbeque. Take note there is also a dining room upstairs which is much less drafty. PW

Nightlife Coyote Ugly Ul. Baumana 13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 45 08, coyoteugly.ru/kaz. The third bar in Russia from the American chain famous for its gorgeous girls who have fast and furious skills both behind the bar and on it when they get up to pour tequila shots. As the brand demands the buzz is very much roadhouse Americana, all loud rock music, bourbon and cowboy boots. Given the sorry state of the competition in Kazan, Coyote Ugly is generally a safe bet as the best place for a big night out. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAE Cuba Libre Ul. Baumana 58, MPloshchad Tukaya,

tel. (+7) 843 253 55 32, www.cubakazan.ru. A genuine Cuban bar hidden in an alley just off Kazan’s main street. Retro postcards from Havana and pictures of Fidel and co. plaster the walls and the waitresses follow the trend by wearing cute communist outfits. The menu is filled with a Cuban and Mexican mix of dishes and of course cocktails are a hit. At the weekends this is the hottest bar for dancing in (and by far the tiniest) and entrance is usually restricted due to the extremely small floor space, so get down early, or try flashing some Spanish at the door. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAE

June - July 2013

NiZHNY NOVGOROD

It may not have Moscow’s Red Square or St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace, but Nizhny Novgorod still has some pretty fascinating places to visit. Nizhny’s small but ecclectic collection of museums and art galleries has something for everyone, and if you find yourself wanting more, there are plenty of interesting places to visit outside the city too. Check out more online at nizhny-novgorod.inyourpocket.com.

Sightseeing The Kremlin, tel. (+7) 831 422 10 80, www.ngiamz.ru. Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlooking the winding Volga would once have struck fear into the hearts of the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears around the river bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is an impressive structure. Unlike Moscow’s famous Kremlin it’s no fortress and the public can wander at will through its territories. It currently houses municipal government centres, two galleries, a church and a war memorial, as well as small museums in some of the towers. But once, when cities were built on a different scale, it encircled the whole of Nizhny Novgorod and (on the whole) kept them safe from the scary world of medieval Russia. The original structure was made from wood, but the ill-advised combination of open fires and a wooden city came to a somewhat inevitable conclusion when it burnt down in 1513. It was then sensibly decided to make a stone version which when it was completed looked much as it does today. And that means: a two kilometre wall, four metres thick, thirteen towers and chock full of artillery points - not something you want to get on the wrong side of. The wrong side, in fact, was the Khanate of Kazan, nowadays just the next city along the Volga, back then locked in a bloody and prolonged argument with Moscow. Nizhny’s convenient position halfway between the two meant that it became Moscow’s ‘watch-city’, a title that came with no small risk. It suffered its fair share of attacks and sieges over the years, but proved pretty much invincible. This could be thanks to the Kremlin, or it could be thanks to its fearsome inhabitants, as legend has it. With the fall of Kazan, the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin lost its strategic importance and fell gradually into disrepair. A number of facelifts over the present decade have helped return it to something like its former glory. Nowadays you can stroll around on its grass, or take a walk inside its towering walls and enjoy the view. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission from 60Rbl.

Hotels and Hostels Grand Hotel Oka Premium (+7) 831 425 94 23, www.en.hoteloka.ru. Q Room prices start at 4,800Rbl. PW hhhh Ibis Nizhny Novgorod (+7) 831 233 11 20, www.ibis. com. Modern and comfortable, as one would expect from the Ibis chain, and only a short walk to the centre. Q Room prices start at 2,900Rbl. PW hhh Moscow In Your Pocket

Gorky Hostel Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 5/6, tel. (+7) 831 439 09 00, www.gorkiy-hostel.ru/en. Q (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PW Hostel Bugrov Ul. Sovetskaya 20, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 831 416 14 68, www.bugrovhostel.ru/en/. Q (Room prices start at 400Rbl). PW Hostel Naberezhny Nizhne-Volzhskaya nab. 7/2, tel. (+7) 831 230 13 15, www.bereg-hostel.ru/en/. Q (Room prices start at 350Rbl).

Eating and drinking Bocconcino Alekseevskaya ul. 10/16 (in Lobachevsky Plaza shopping centre), tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www. bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Russia, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The toppings are fresh and full of flavour. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW Tiffani Verkhnevolzhskaya nab. 8, tel. (+7) 831 419

41 01, www.tiffanibar.ru. You can’t say ‘Nizhny Novgorod’ without ‘Volga’ and this is one of the best places from which to enjoy Nizhny’s enviable views of Russia’s national river. The restaurant itself makes the most of this, with a plush crescent of seating offering a panorama of the Volga and countryside beyond. Fresh seafood, simply prepared, continues the aquatic theme, though be reassured, it’s not actually sourced from the Volga’s murky waters; in fact it’s fresh from their aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW

Getting There By Plane: There are several flights every day leaving

from all three of Moscow’s airports; they take just over an hour and prices start from around 3,000Rbl. From St. Petersburg there are typically two flights per day that take up to two hours and cost upwards of 3,500Rbl.

By Train: Trains typically take between four and eight hours and usually leave from Kursksky Vokzal in Moscow. The Sapsan train that connects Moscow and St. Petersburg at high speed also extends to Nizhny Novgorod, stopping at Vladimir along the way, and takes just under four hours to make the journey (from 1,082Rbl). It’ll set you back a bit but is the fastest and most convenient way to make it to Nizhny. One more new option is the Lastochka (Swallow) train which runs once a day in each direction, leaving Moscow at 14:15 and reaching the Volga city four hours later (850Rbl). Next fastest is the Burevestnik (from 330Rbl) train which is a little cheaper and takes 4h40mins. moscow.inyourpocket.com