Moscow In Your Pocket by Russia In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow April - May 2014

Pushkin vs Vegas Discovering Arbat & the boulevards

Moscow Spring inyourpocket.com NÂ°32

Theatre, Chocolate and French Art

Contents Nightlife

Dance and drink the night away

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What to see

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

Public transport

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10 Concerts, festivals and exhibitions Sport news

10 17

Features

The Kremlin Parks and gardens

40 40 45

Where to stay 47 Interview with consierge

Shopping

51 51

Russian souvenirs

Expat & Lifestyle 53 The Expat Experience

Business

56 56

What type of Expat are you?

Maps & Index

18 Street index Arbat 18 Metro map Zamoskvorechye 22 City map

58 59 60

Where to eat

Secrets of Russian cuisine Sunday Brunch Open terraces

24 25 30 32

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April - May 2014

Foreword

In the News

I’m proud to present you the brand new look of Moscow In Your Pocket – fresh, bright, clear and simple. It always gives you such a nice feeling when something so important to you becomes better and looks greater. I hope you will enjoy using the guide as much as we enjoyed making it for you!

russian easter Moscow In Your Pocket E S S E N TI A L founded and published Your Pocket. C I TbyYOOO G Krasnaya U I D E Shapka/In S Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A.

Check out the two special features we’ve prepared for this issue. The first one is about one of Moscow’s oldest streets, Arbat. They say that only those who were born on Arbat are true Muscovites… Well, I’m not really sure if it’s true but I’m sure you will like to read about the unusual history of Arbat and then of course walk along it and enjoy its beauties. The second feature is about the historic Zamoskvorechye district which is full of contrasts: you can find here some old wooden structures standing next to the newly built hotels, it’s impressive!

Moscow Office Russia, 101000, Moscow, Krivokolenny per. 12/2 tel: +7 (499) 962 80 50 russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com Editor&PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Tatiana Pole-Carew, Maria Stambler Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

The city has started preparing for summer and it is going to be a very busy two months in the capital with a lot of events you just can’t miss. Moscow’s famous parks prepare their cultural open-air programmes, great musicians are bringing their fantastic shows to the capital, countless restaurants and cafés open their terraces. And of course the holidays! Russian Orthodox Easter (this year the date falls on April 20, the same date when Western churches celebrate it); Victory Day (don’t miss the parade on Red Square); and Russian Cosmonautics Day! Enough to choose from, enough to see, enough to enjoy! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Cover story

Due to the fact that the Russian Orthodox Church follows a different calendar to its Western counterparts, Easter Sunday often falls on a different date. But not this year. In 2014 both Western and Orthodox churches will celebrate Easter on April 20. Easter is one of the most important holidays in the Russian religious calendar and many churches which would not normally have regular services, such as St. Basil’s, also mark the occasion. The Easter service itself actually begins the night before Easter Sunday. People gather at church at around 23:00 to hear the Easter mass. At the end of the service, all the lights in the Church are turned off, except for the holy flame on the altar. Then at the stroke of midnight, Easter begins. The priest lights a candle from the holy flame and the congregation lights its candles from his, until the whole church is bathed in candle light. Bells begin to ring out across the city and the priest will then lead the congregation around the church three times in what is called ‘the cross procession’. Finally the doors of the iconostasis are opened, symbolising the opening of Christ’s grave after his resurrection. Easter services tend to last well into the night, although it is perfectly acceptable to arrive for just part of the service and light your candles. Finally after the service people head home and get ready for a day of feasting on Easter Sunday. Russians typically celebrate Easter by eating kulich, a puffy raisin cake made with masses of eggs, butter and powdered sugar as well as those lovely dyed or painted hard-boiled eggs. Prior to the holiday, Russians usually bring their cakes to church to be blessed by a priest.

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 32, 01.04.2014, 60,000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

Arbat! A part of Moscow that is not just a street, but has been the heart of many key Russian events throughout history. For more on Arbat see pages 18 - 21. Photo by Dreamstime.com.

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

SOUTH AFRICA

4 Moscow In Your Pocket

GEORGIA

It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Cosmonautics Day Cosmonautics Day honours Yuri Gagarin’s first space flight made on April 12, 1961, which circled the Earth for 1 hour and 48 minutes in the Vostok 1 spaceship. The anniversary of this flight became a holiday the following year in the Soviet Union. Gagarin’s flight brought a lot of fame and success to the Soviet space program and he subsequently became a national hero of the Soviet Union and famous all over the world. The official commemoration of Cosmonautics Day starts near Gagarin’s statue in the city of Korolyov, an industrial city in the Moscow region, where Soviet space exploration and research was initiated. The celebration then travels by police escort to Red Square to visit Gagarin’s grave in the Kremlin Wall Necropolis, before continuing to Cosmonauts Alley, near the Monument to the Conquerors of Space. The day’s festivities end with a visit to Novodevichy Cemetery. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

shop in the museum Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop! Shop is located inside the building of the State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History, which is also worth a visit.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Victory Day In most parts of Europe, Victory in Europe (VE) Day (the day the Germans signed the declaration of surrender during World War II) is celebrated on May 08. The Germans signed the declaration at 23:00 May 08, which due to the time difference meant that in the USSR it was already May 09 - hence the former Soviet Union countries mark Victory Day (Dyen Pobedy) on May 09. Victory Day is one of Russia’s most popular public holidays. The celebrations start at 10:00 with a huge military parade (often featuring tanks and missile launchers as well as infantry) down Tverskaya ul. and across Red Square. The parade is then followed by a big street party with singing, music and lots of hugs and flowers for the survivors of the war. Parks and gardens across the city also put on special events for the many veterans of what Russians call ‘the Great Patriotic War’ and in general the whole day is a joyful event honouring the many millions of Russians who were affected. The day ends with a huge firework display over the Moscow river and the Kremlin area at 22:00. To get into the spirit of things head out and buy some red carnations and greet any veterans you see with a hearty ‘S dnyom pobedy’ (Happy Victory day) and a flower. Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114

Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No32. 01.04.2014 Для детей старше 16 лет.

April - May 2014

Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download our free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience whether you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www. belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www. kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station. QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each carrige, announcing which station the train is approaching. However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets April - May 2014

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate In April and May Moscow really starts to take on a new look and pace of life as the snow melts and the trees regain their leaves again. Typically things don’t start to really warm up until the end of April though so it is advisable to have a light coat or sweater with you and good waterproof shoes to deal with the puddles.

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Post

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com

pocket dictionary Podsnezhnik is something you may find on a walk through a park or forest in late winter or early spring. Also known as Galanthus or snowdrop, these are small, white, bulbous flowers that blossom under the snow in winter typically before the vernal equinox in late March. For Russians they represent the end of winter and the beginning of spring. It is difficult to underestimate the importance of the change of seasons in Russia. For many it is really about new beginnings, with many Russians stating that the new year only really begins in summer and seeing a podsnezhok is a sign that it is on its way.

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль April - May 2014

Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

Culture & Events Theatre-Atelier Pyotr Fomenko QKutuzovksky pr. 30/32, MKutuzovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 17 40, www.fomenko.theatre.ru. Theatre Mayakovskogo QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Vakhtangov Theatre QB-3, Ul. Arbat 26, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 16 79, www.vakhtangov.ru.

concert halls and clubs April events Arena Moscow QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru. Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres Academic Theater of Operetta QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 50 50, www.mosoperetta.ru. Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre QВ-1, Hermitage Gardens, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www. novayaopera.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 48 59, www.maly.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru. 10 Moscow In Your Pocket

03.04 Thursday 20:00 The Baseballs Moscow first welcomed this fresh-faced German rock’n’roll trio last year - and The Baseballs hit local audiences out of the park. So much so that the clamour for a return visit sees the team back in town already. The formula is simple: modern hits in a classic 50s rock style. It’s a bit like going clubbing in a traditional US diner, but with the juke box subtly updated along the way. Performing with gusto and a welcome sense of fun, The Baseballs are set to score another home run here in Moscow on April 3 at Arena Moscow.QArena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 655 99 99, www.thebaseballs. com. Tickets 1,500 - 2,500Rbl. 05.04 Saturday 22:00 Trancemission The Trancemission brand is a hallmark of high-quality, large-scale events for lovers of techno. Capturing the best of the rave spirit and bringing those anarchic qualities to a mass audience, these gigs have done much to take the music into the mainstream over the past decade or so. And this year’s Moscow show promises a rare treat as the great Ferry Corsten returns to the stage. It’s been a while since Corsten has gone out on tour, and he’s promising a brand new show to celebrate - while maintaining his trademark heavy style in keeping with the added weight of Trancemission gigs in recent years.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.radiorecord.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,500Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

06.04 Sunday 19:00 Didyulya Russia’s top guitar virtuoso shows off some top-notch fretwork as part of his latest tour. It’s difficult to pigeonhole his style - his music veers wildly from cinematic grandeur to frenetic flamenco, via all sorts of rock and folk riffing - but it’s not hard to recognize that this is a master at work. If the name is unfamiliar, it’s likely you’ll have heard his work accompanying the medal-winning performances of figure-skater Irina Slutskaya, while he’s also picked up a ‘White Elephant’ award from the Russian Filmmakers’ Guild for his soundtrack to Alexei Balabanov’s 2010 film Korchegar.QCrocus Сity Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.didula.ru. Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl. 10.04 Thursday 20:00 Surganova and Orchestra Russians love to boast that their country is the bestread in the world - and Surganova and Orchestra takes that literary tradition onto the rock music stage. The band, fronted by exNochnye Snaipery vocalist Svetlana Surganova, draws many of its lyrics from the verses of Akhmatova, Brodsky, Tsvetaeva and others. One of the band’s biggest hits, ‘Murakami’, references the Japanese novelist whose work is enormously popular in Russia. Alongside the high culture, the band also has a great reputation for good live shows, interspersing music and poetry for a rapt audience.QCrocus Сity Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. surganova.su. Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl. 14.04 Monday 20:00 Jerry Lee Lewis and Chuck Berry Nobody with even a passing interest in the history of rock music can be unaware of the colossal legacy left by Chuck Berry and Jerry Lee Lewis. Back in the 50s, when rock’n’roll was young, fresh and scandalous, these were the guys in the vanguard, simultaneously shocking and thrilling audiences with a bright new sound. While the passing of the years has inevitably slowed down some of the on-stage antics, each show from these veteran troopers gives audience a glimpse of true living legends doing their thing all over again. A unique night of musical history awaits at Crocus on April 14.QCrocus Сity Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. jerryleelewis.com. Tickets 2,000 - 15,000Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Stanislavsky music Theatre Dating back to 1918-1919 the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the biggest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera and ballet performances are well known to the Moscow audience and attract more and more international visitors. The theatre takes part in many international projects and gets yearly nominated for the national theatre premium Golden Mask. In 2013 it was nominated in London for the Oscar amongst the opera’s; the first international opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a lovely museum showing the history of the theatre, costumes used for performances and lovely stage models. Coming April 11th, the long-awaited premiere of Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida will be staged, directed by the wellknown German opera director Peter Stein. Aida tells the tale of an Ethiopian princess captured by the Egyptians and about the love for Aida by Radames, an Egyptian military commander. Radames struggles between his love for her and his loyalty to the Pharaoh, but the situation becomes even more complicated because of the Pharaoh’s daughter Amneris, who is in love with Radames. Aida will also be staged on the 12th, 14th and 16th of April. Director Peter Stein has been working on several pieces of Verdi in the last years. A new production of Macbeth premiered in Salzburg in 2011, followed in 2013 by Don Carlos, also at the Salzburg Festival. Opera’s directed by Stein have travelled the world’s most famous theatres and now Moscow awaits its own with Aida. Further on in June the Stanislavsky theatre will see the premiere of the opera Don Juan, tickets on sale already! Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.

Photo by Oleg Chernous

April - May 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 19.04 Saturday 19:00 Superdiskoteka Russia in the 90s was a strange place. Opened up to a raft of global popular culture that had long been hidden away beyond the Iron Curtain, a whole host of unlikely stars were born. And one of the brightest was Uruguayan singer-actress Natalia Oreiro, whose starring role in the Latino soap opera ‘Muneca Brava’ (known to Russians as ‘Wild Angel’) made her hugely popular in these parts. Now she’s back as the star turn at Radio Record’s 90s disco nostalgia fest, sharing the stage with a whole host of other vaguelyremembered names such as Haddaway and half of Tatu. It might sound crazy, but 25,000 people a year turn up for these gigs in Moscow and Petersburg.QC-1, SK Olimpisky, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.radiorecord.ru. Tickets 800 - 4,000Rbl.

cinema Russia’s love affair with dubbed movies can make a trip to the cinema a trial – but it’s still possible to catch an assortment of films in their original language, just as the director intended. The star of the show in Moscow is undoubtedly 35mm (Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 780 9145, www.kino35mm.ru), which brings the cream of the world’s indie and art-house releases as well as showing some Russian releases with English subtitles. The Formula chain (www.formulakino.ru) has found a successful equation with live screenings of plays from London’s National Theatre, the Royal Shakespeare Company and Shakespeare’s Globe, as well as highlights from the Met Opera in New York. Unfortunately the long-established Dome Cinema, once the best option for blockbusters, is no longer in business, but some mainstream releases get subtitled screenings at 5 Zvezd (Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 16, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 91 69, www.5zvezd.ru) or Oktyabr (Ul. Novy Arbat 24, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 545 05 05, www. karofilm.ru). It’s also worth checking out the festival calendar: venues like 35mm and Oktyabr regularly host themed weeks of international cinema. 12 Moscow In Your Pocket

24.04 Thursday 20:00 Tamara Gverdtsiteli Like a fine Georgian wine, Tamara Gverdtsiteli’s voice just keeps getting better with age. She was immersed in the vocal traditions of her homeland from an early age - her family claims she began singing at the age of just 11 months - and matured into one of the best-loved artists of the Soviet and post-Soviet eras with a voice which seems to gain in depth and richness with every passing year. She’s also a devotee of the old show-biz maxim, ‘the show must go on’, and never more so than when performing in Kabul during the Soviet war in Afghanistan. As the shells began to fall and the lights went out, Tamara continued to sing: “People could still hear me, and forget about the horrors of war,” she recalls.QCrocus Сity Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocushall.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 15,000Rbl.

MAY events 17.05 Saturday 19:00 Justin Timberlake Once famous for dating Britney Spears, and recently referenced in the ‘Crimea River’ meme which flooded onto the internet during the crisis in Ukraine, Justin Timberlake is one of the world’s biggest stars. So as soon as his May 17 Moscow gig was announced, it went straight into the diaries of capital’s cultural opinion-formers. It’s all part of the soul idol’s return to the music scene after years spent chasing movie fame, and last year’s ‘The 20/20 Experience’ provided a slick reminder of what first put him in the spotlight and the subsequent tour has been wowing audiences around the world.QC-1, SK Olimpisky, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.justintimberlake.com. Tickets 2,500 - 60,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

21.05 Wednesday 20:00 Yoshiki Hayashi Once being ‘big in Japan’ was a back-handed compliment at best, but nowadays Japanese rock - and especially the flamboyantly theatrical ‘Visual Kei’ scene is a big phenomenon in its own right. Now Yoshiki Hayashi, the brains behind legendary J-Rockers X JAPAN, is bringing a solo show to Moscow. Admittedly, it’s not quite the full-on X-perience of his regular band; Yoshiki offers instead his classically-inspired material. But that combines X JAPAN’s ballads with new material specially composed for Yoshiki Classical to give a thorough run-down of his work in shaping the contemporary Japanese scene at the point where it overlaps with western traditions and gives them a distinctly oriental accent.QCrocus Сity Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.yoshiki.net. Tickets 2,500 - 6,000Rbl.

MOSCOW ENGLISH THEATRE The Moscow English Theatre company is a touring theatre company, who periodically rent out the Mayakovsky Theatre, to provide an English alternative to theatre lovers. The company is comprised of many talented actors and actresses, including LAMDA graduates and trainees of the Royal Scottish Academy. April sees MET perform Blue/Orange, an amusing pyscho-drama directed by Gary Sefton, who has worked for the Royal Shakespeare Company and Theatre Royals in Bath and Northampton.The play won two prestigious London theatre awards when it opened at the Royal National Theatre in London. May will see the company Willy Russel’s classic “Educating Rita” perform for a second time in Moscow after a very popular first showing. Book tickets early in advance to avoid disappointment for what is sure to be a great show. www.moscowenglishtheatre.com

24.05 Saturday 19:00 Aerosmith Global warming may still be a political hot potato, but there’s no denying the impact of Aerosmith’s Global Warming Tour. The veteran rockers have been making it hot all over the world since 2014, celebrating their ear-scorching brand of hard rock across a total of 88 venues. Although there’s a handful of new tracks getting an airing, it’s a hit-heavy program. For lovers of the band, the deal is simple - just Walk this Way and Come Together to confirm that the band’s still got What it Takes.QC-1, SK Olimpisky, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.aerosmith.com. Tickets 3,000 - 5,000Rbl. 02.06 Monday 19:00 Linkin Park The band is toting its sixth album on the current tour, but fans know well enough what to expect here - and with album sales topping the 15 million mark, there are plenty of fans out there to join the party. The whole nu-metal scene remains massive in Russia, with Limp Bizkit and Korn also attracting big crowds to the nation’s premier venues, so it’s an ideal chance to rub shoulders with the land’s frustrated adolescents just before they get conscripted into the military and learn to love shanson. File under ‘cultural experience’.QC-1, SK Olimpisky, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.linkinpark.com. Tickets 2,000 - 8,000Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Exhibitions Through 13.04 Sunday The Art of Controversy Andy Warhol’s 1980 pop-art portraits of 10 leading Jewish figures of the 20th century caused huge controversy when they were first exhibited - and debate still swirls around them today. Some critics argued that his ‘tawdry’ images failed to grasp the significance of the subjects who ranged from the Marx Brothers to Golda Meir - in a manner which verged on the offensive; Josh Kornbluth even wrote a one-man stage play debating the merits of Warhol’s work. Nearly 35 years later the debate still bubbles along, accompanying these pictures wherever they are shown. The series is now on display at the Jewish Museum and Centre for Tolerance, giving Moscow audiences a chance to make up their own minds.QJewish Museum and Tolerance Center, Ul. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1А, MMaryina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, www.jewish-museum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. April - May 2014

Culture & Events 04.04 Friday - 20.04 Sunday What if God was one of us? Renowned artist and caricaturist Innokenty Baranov’s project ‘The Adventures of God’ starts from a simple premise: what if God came to Earth today, and wandered around a contemporary city? What challenges would He face, what problems would He encounter? What might He think of the world around him? To see Baranov’s answers to these questions, visit the Metropol Hotel, where his works are on display. The hotel itself has a long artistic pedigree - 19th century patron of the Slavic Cultural Revival Savva Mamonov hosted his salon here and the luxury city center residence has hosted many landmark exhibitions down the years.QC-2, Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www. metropol-moscow.ru. Through 20.04 Sunday Metropolis to Metropolis Like Moscow, London is one of the world’s great cities. And like Moscow, the English capital has long inspired visitors to try to capture its unique character. Part of this year’s Photobiennale, and also part of the year-long cultural exchange between Britain and Russia, this exhibition offers a foreign view of the ‘big smoke’ in the recent past. Displaying photos of London from the 1930s-70s gives a fascinating view of a world both recognizable and forever out of reach. It’s like peering through a friend’s school yearbooks, only with some of the greatest photographers of the 20th century - Lartigue, Cartier-Bresson, Hoppe, Brandt etc - as your guide.QB-4, MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum), ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mammmdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Through 20.04 Sunday

Culture & Events us a fascinating social document and a rare treasure trove of the beau monde of the mid-1800s.QB-4, MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum), ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mammmdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Through 20.04 Sunday Reinventing the image Budapest born, Paris based photographer Andre Steiner was one of the leading figures in the rush to reinvent the art of photography in the inter-war years. He formed part of the ‘l’oeil nouveau’ school which challenged earlier preconceptions about photographic form and subject matter. In this sense his work forms a kind of western counterpoint to the avant-garde experiments of the Soviet constructivists, with their new formal exercises. The MAMM exhibition, part of the Photobienale, offers a wide-reaching retrospective of his work.QB-4, MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, www. mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Monday. Through - 20.04 Sunday England in focus Chris Steele-Perkins photographs an England seldom seen in the post ‘Cool Britannia’ branding of the country. Growing up in the North East, a region which often feels alien to the rest of the country, his lens frequently falls on the outsiders, the communities cut adrift by changing economic tides, the older generations overtaken by the race towards the future. With much of his work dating from the 1980s, a time when English society was rapidly transforming, his ‘England, my England’ series at MAMM offers a tantalizing combination of the familiar and the already forever lost.QB-4, MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mammmdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Through 11.05 Sunday Erwin Blumenfeld Erwin Blumenfeld was one of the giants of 20th-century fashion photography, regular producing cover shots for Vogue and other leading magazines. But this exhibition at Moscow’s Multimedia Art Museum explores the full range of his work, including drawing, collage and montage as well as his famed photography. Within its 200 works it tells the story of his creative development from his early days as jobbing portraitist in Amsterdam to the experimental films he shot for the Dayton store in Minneapolis, exploring his role in the development of commercial color photography along the way.QB-4, MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum), ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Through 25.05 Sunday The Art of Sport Sports fans might enjoy the ‘Soviet Sport’ exhibition running at the Institute of Russian Realist Art from early February. Timed to coincide with the Sochi Olympic Games - there were also parallel shows in Sochi itself, as well as posting reproductions in GUM during the Olympic fortnight - it highlights the way art became a hot topic for 20th-century artists. As the Soviet regime strove to promote physical exercise and healthy living - exemplified by Alexander Deyneka’s poster ‘You don’t have to be an athlete, but you must keep fit!’ - images of sporting prowess were highly prized. Apart from the social benefits of participation sports, there was also vast scope for international prestige to be considered, with international champions doing great propaganda work for the socialist system. Other images, however, take a more reflective view, either revelling in the physical elegance of sporting activity, or seeing reflections of everyday life in humble scenes in local parks. Deyneka is well-represented in the show, as are the photographs of Lev Borodulin, one of the top photo-journalists of the Soviet era.QInstitute of Russian Realist Art, Novospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl.

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Through - 01.06 Sunday More than just a suitcase The scandal of Red Square’s Louis Vuitton suitcase last year did not spell the end for Russia’s interest in the attributes of elegant voyages. But there’s more to the history of traveling in style, as a new display at the Museum of Decorative Arts is out to demonstrate. The exhibition evokes something of the golden age of travel, focusing on the 19th and 20th centuries. It takes viewers on a journey from tourism as a hallmark of the elite to the mass-market transit we enjoy today, as seen through the kit - from luxurious to functional - that we haul along with us.QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Through - 25.05 Sunday Master of Etchings Matvey Dobrov (1877-1958) is one of the forgotten masters of the past century, an engraver whose etchings represent many of the finest traditions of the Russian school. The Tretyakov Gallery is staging a major retrospective, featuring 120 of his works, highlighting the diversity of his skills. Dobrov’s finest works combine the lyricism of easel graphics with the precision of a scientific drawing, drawing on two distinct trends of expressionism and realism which vied for prominence in the early Soviet era. That blend of ideologies may go some way to explaining how his reputation faltered at a time when the state was the prime arbiter of artistic taste.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.

A lens on the past Ivan Bianchi was a Swiss 19th-century photographer who spent more than 30 years recording the sights of imperial St. Petersburg at a time when the Russian Empire was lurching through profound reforms. His images capture both the familiar - the city’s classical architecture - and the grand one-off events of his time such as royal funerals. More of a photo-journalist than an artist, he takes us into the homes of the noble families of Russia - a kind of ‘Privet!’ for his age, which gives us a glimpse into a long-lost world. While his images wrestle with and expand the technical limitations of 19th-century camerawork he also bequeaths 14 Moscow In Your Pocket

cinema

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April - May 2014

Culture & Events 25.04 Friday - 08.06 Sunday Soviet photo-tour Russian-German photographer Erwin Volkov spent six months on a grand tour of the USSR in 1957, reporting for the East German newspaper Wochenpost. The results were lost for decades, but a recently-opened archive has revealed a cache of these works, which are on show in Moscow for the first time at the Lumiere Brothers’ gallery. Volkov’s route took him far beyond Moscow and Leningrad, ranging from Murmansk to the Far East, via Baikal, central Siberia, the Black Sea coast and the length of the Volga.QC-4, Center of Photography Lumiere Brothers, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru/. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Through - 24.08 Sunday Alexander Golovin, Fantasies of the Silver Age Alexander Golovin, whose 150th anniversary falls this year, was one of the brightest representatives of the Silver Age, that brief flowering of Art Deco creativity in the early years of the 20th century which ultimately fell foul of the dead hand of the Soviet commissars and their determination to impose Socialist Realism as the only acceptable form of cultural expression in the country. This large-scale retrospective explores the magical theatrical sets and costuimes designed by Golovin, as well as his wide-ranging landscapes, still lives and portraits of many of the leading lights of his age. The exhibition opens on March 28.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. 16 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 23.04 Wednesday - 07.09 Sunday A tale of two Germanies Post-war German art found itself caught between two sides of the Cold War conflict, prompting artists to explore different directions. Western artists, free to investigate the avant-guard, often went on to enjoy international reputations, while their colleagues on the other side of the wall tended to languish in obscurity - for reasons that were as political as they were cultural. A new exhibition as Moscow’s Museum of Modern Art seeks to draw these strands together, forging both a common German culture and delineating twin paths through the contemporary art world and continuing into the post-reunification world of protest art. It’s a show which offers as much to followers of politics and modern history as it does to art buffs. QС-2, MMOMA (Moscow Museum of Modern Art), Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month.

07.03 Friday - 08.03.2015 Sunday Classical French Art at Arkhangelskoe Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is wellknown: time was when fashion dictated even princely underwear should be sent to France to be laundered. But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www. arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW

You can buy tickets for many events at www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru moscow.inyourpocket.com

The title race

A day at the races

Former Manchester United boss Sir Alex Ferguson famously described the closing weeks of the football season as ‘squeaky bum time’, and it’s fair to say that few fans of Moscow’s top flight teams will be sitting comfortably as the 2013-14 draws to a close. At the time of writing, all four of Lokomotiv, Dynamo, Spartak and CSKA believe they have a valid claim on top spot, meaning there are some potentially big games coming up in the closing weeks of the campaign. May 15 is the key day: the last games of the season throw together two Moscow derbies. Lokomotiv, currently top of the table, travel to Arena Khimki to play defending champion CSKA. The Army Men, however, have failed to match last season’s form, hampered by an aging back four and some erratic form from goalie Igor Akinfeev. However, the presence of playmaker Alan Dzagoev – likely to be a key figure for Russia’s World Cup hopes – means Leonid Slutsky’s squad is always a threat. Loko, meanwhile, feature former Spurs forward Roman Pavlyuchenko in the squad, but the star of Euro 2008 tends to start on the bench thanks to the form of Daime N’Doye of Senegal. The other game, played at Cherkizovo, pits Spartak against Dynamo. This is perhaps the oldest rivalry in Russian football, even if the CSKA-Spartak clash has tended to be bigger in the post-Soviet era. Aside from a chance of snatching the title, both clubs have hopes of earning a place in next season’s Champions League. Spartak also has a point to prove after a miserable start to its 2014 schedule included a humiliating cup defeat to third-tier minnows Tosno. However both teams also face a difficult second half of the season after playing up to 10 of their first 15 games at home. Key players to watch for here include Spartak’s Armenian forward Yura Movsisyan and Dynamo’s emerging star Alexander Kokorin. To add to the excitement in the closing stages of the campaign, several players are out to force their way into Fabio Capello’s squad to represent Russia at the World Cup in Brazil this summer. The big debate raging among pundits at the moment is whether Artyom Dzyuba, an ex-Spartak forward now playing for Rostov, should be on the plane. He’s been among the league’s leading scorers, and has more goals than any other Russian player, but is struggling to dislodge the experienced but currently underachieving Alexander Kerzhakov of Zenit.

May is also the traditional start of Moscow’s horseracing season at the Central Hippodrome on Begovaya Ulitsa (m. Beogvaya, Dinamo). The Hippodrome itself is a fine piece of Stalin baroque architecture, with a soaring spire recalling the ‘seven sisters’ and richly decorated ceilings in the grandstand. It’s also a strange meeting of two worlds: the flashy and expensive restaurant at one end sits awkwardly next to the grungy ryumochnaya vibe of the regular buffet where sweaty open sandwiches and shots of vodka in plastic cups are dispensed to eager gamblers. The program also touches two extremes, from harness racing trials most weekends for the hardcore lovers of the turf, right the way up to the President’s Cup at the start of July. The latter event traditionally brings Putin and a handful of friendly leaders from CIS and gas-producing countries for a spot of political glad-handing over a prestigious racing card. The season’s other big event, usually on the first weekend in June, is the Monte Carlo Grand Prix. Nothing to do with motor racing, this is sponsored by Radio Monte Carlo and carries more than a whiff of the high-society gathering at Russia’s most famous literary horse-race – the one in Anna Karenina where Vronsky’s fall inadvertently exposed the couple’s scandalous affair. It’s a star-studded line-up, something akin to Ladies’ Day at Royal Ascot, and the competition on the track is often rivaled by the showbiz costume battles in the paddock. But away from these showcases, the ordinary weekend cards also have a rare charm of their own. In a city where so much is glitzy and pretentious there’s a refreshing simplicity about a huddle of hard-bitten punters chain-smoking their way through the afternoon as they intently study form and hope for a big winner. Tickets start at 300r for a trial card – a fee worth paying for the chance to get a close look at the building, irrespective of any racing. Getting into the big events, unless you happen to own a resource-rich country, is more expensive – prices here can run into several thousand rubles. By Andy Potts

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For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket April - May 2014

Features History of Old Arbat Arbat has a diverse and rich residential history, ranging from merchants and craftsmen, to aristocrats, to housing the headquarters of the Tsar’s bodyguards, to becoming the favourite haunt of Moscow’s intelligentsia (artists, authors and academics etc), to Soviet officials. The Arbat we can see today has retained and protected it’s legacy as well as keeping up with the times; statues have been erected in memory of its famous inhabitants; several museums are dotted along the street – including the very flat that Pushkin used to live in; as well as concert halls and theatres, street artists, souvenir shops and shops, restaurants, cafés and bars.

History of New Arbat

Pushkin vs Vegas Arbat Street, one of the oldest streets in the city and main arteries of Moscow, is not just a street. It is part of the Russian cultural psyche and has been the heart of many key Russian events throughout history. It is said amongst Russians that only those born on Arbat are true Muscovites.

When Nikita Krushchev was premier of the Soviet Union, his admiration of United States was reflected in several of his antics, including his desire to make New Arbat into a replica of both Broadway and Las Vegas, complete with casinos, bright lights, colours and sky scrapers. Built in 1968 and originally called Kalinin Prospekt, New Arbat (Novi Arbat) used to be heralded as an archetype of Soviet urban planning, but today is more famous for being a bright and loud strip of eateries, clubs and high end department stores such as the brand made famous for designing the Russian Olympic team’s outfits, Bosco. New Arbat regained its name in the 90s after the fall of communism and has since expanded and grown to become a modern thoroughfare in downtown moscow. Aside from this, New Arbat is a typical example of a Moscow street, with the towering, Stalinist skyscrapers, juxtaposing the beautiful, classical Russian Orthodox Church of St Simeon Stolpnik. This church was turned into an animal and bird exhibition during the Soviet era, but was restored to its original purpose in the 90s.

The Boulevard Ring With a circumference of 9km, the Boulevard Ring circles the centre of Moscow. Taking approximately two hours to walk the full circle, it is the perfect opportunity for visitors to the city to take a leisurely stroll through the city and see various sights, whilst still enjoying some leafy greenery. Amongst the attractions include monuments to several of Russia’s cultural forefathers such as Gogol, the playwright Griboedev and Soviet bard Vladimir Vysotsky. The ‘swimming horses’ monument near Kropotkinskaya metro dedicated to Mikhail Sholokhov, author of ‘Quietly Flows the Don’ is fantastically beautiful. Planned out in the years after Moscow was almost entirely burnt to the ground during the Napoleonic wars , the ring replaced the original medieval walls that protected the White City. As with much of Russia’s love of all things European, it was inspired by the boulevards of Paris and Austria. Open air exhibitions are regularly held at different points along the length of the boulevard. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Current day Arbat Today in 2014, the cobbles of Old Arbat may remain the same, but the craftsmen and authors have moved on. In their place Arbat boasts an impressive array of cafes, restaurants and bars. Walking down the street, visitors are presented with a carnival of portrait artists, caricaturists, living statues, circus acts or musicians and street vendors. Although visitors beware! Whilst the souvenirs may look beautiful, the prices are much higher than those at other markets like Izmailovo, so be prepared to bargain and haggle your way to a price you deem reasonable.

Things to DO As well as multiple restaurants and bars, there are several other attractions in the Arbat area, such as Moscow’s White House on New Arbat, the home of Moscow’s government and down the little side street of Malaya Molchanovka, is the Lermontov House Museum, the house where the “Hero of Our Time” novelist spent some of his last years before he died of septicaemia, and one of the few surviving wooden buildings in Moscow. The “October” cinema, which was built to mark the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution can also be found on New Arbat, and across the river, over the Novoarbatsky Bridge, stands the Hotel Ukraina, one of Stalin’s forbiddingly beautiful and impressive Seven Sisters, skyscrapers which were built in 1947 to commemorate Moscow’s 800th anniversary. (Another one of the Seven Sisters, housing the ministry of Foreign Affairs is located at the end of Arbat, on Smolenskaya.) April - May 2014

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In order to perform the many masterpieces of all Russia’s famous writers and musicians, there are many concert halls and TOCHNY PER. PRO 8 theatres throughout Moscow, and The Arbat area is no ex2-YA BO ception. Old Arbat itself is home to the well ROD known Vakhtan. INS PER . gov Theatre, easily recognised by the gold statue KAYAofULPrincess KY ITS AN Turandot outside. The Vakhtangov Theatre, was originally the M KAR studio of Chekhov’s close friend and mentor, Yevgeny Bagrationovich Vakhtangov, and was named in honour of him four SMOLENSKAYA 48 years after his death. It is celebrated for it’s artists impeccable skills and first rate performances, which are a broad mix of both Russian and foreign classical and modern plays. For BOL .down DOR from the Greater Church of music lovers, about 150m OG BORODINSKY MIL of Bolshaya Nikitskaya the Ascension on the right handOside OVS MOST KAY A UL Street, is The Grand Hall of the Moscow Conservatory. It is oneSMOLENSKAYA UL. . 7 of the most famous concert venues in the world, known not just for the beautifully decorated interior, but also for it’s organ: The Organ Cavaille-Coll, which was regarded as one of the best in the world during the Paris exhibition of 1900. L. AU

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There are many statues along Arbat and the surrounding area, with the poet Pushkin being one of the most popular 10 KRASNOPRESN subjects. Outside the Pushkin Memorial Apartment, stands ENS K A N Natalya. a happy statue of the married Pushkin and hisAYwife AB One statue almost impossible to miss, is the gold . fountain UKRAINA Themonument to Princess Turandot outside the Vahtangov HOTEL atre. Moscow’s favourite bard, Bulat Okudzhava, PIER who wrote many poems and odes dedicated to the street, is also immortalised in bronze on the corner of Krivoarbatsky Pereulok and Arbat. Gogol’s statue is located on Nikitsky Boulevard, with the names of his characters engraved on the pedestal.

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is a popular one due to its satirical and absurd take on matchmaking. On stage the main characters sing Russian romances, supported by a lovely choir which enhances the romantic feeling of an age long gone. 19 Theatre Mayakovskogo QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. 3

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Madame Boulanger This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome to serenade the other guests on their piano.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madame-boulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW 2

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Tarantino Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www. tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PAW 1

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There are many many cafés and restaurants on Arbat and the surrounding area. Perfect for a spot of brunch after an early morning wander around Arbat or a well deserved slice of cake in the afternoon. In the evening there are tons of restaurants to choose from. As soon as the sun comes out and the temperature rises, almost every establishment has an outdoor terrace, providing the perfect opportunity to people watch or marvel at the street artists, whilst enjoying a meal al fresco. Below we listed a few of our partners that we’ve tried and reviewed.

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Following the Pushkin trail, walking about 200 metres up NiPushkin’s House kitsky Boulevard visitors will come across the Greater Church of the Ascension, where Pushkin12married his young wife, Natalya Goncharova. A pleasant walk up the rest of Tverskoy 3 RAST ORGto Pushkinskaya, Boulevard, about 1.5km, will then bring you UEV 4 PER . writer sits ULITSA where yet another statue of the Moscow’s beloved 1 1905 GODA STOsome holiday reading? and looks over the square. Looking for LYA RNY PER is the biggest Dom Knigi, (House of Books) on44New Arbat, . and most famous book store in Moscow. It has three floors of books for sale in multiple languages, including several teach yourself Russian books for those wanting to get24 further acUL KRA quainted with the Russian language. .Z SN AM AYA Master and Margarita To find slightly tamer, but no less interesting attractions, OR PRE EN SN B OV about 100m YA starting at building No 1 of OOld L. P Arbat, walk A UL . and on the right hand side is theREDWall TEC of Peace, a moving HE NScovered with hunand modern addition to the historic area, KY ER the theme of dreds of hand-painted tiles, all expounding13Pon often. Whils little of the main action takes place specifically . KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA international friendship; Victor Tsoi’s Wall, a unique place 9of on Arbat, a lot takes place in the neighbouring streets and 22 pilgrimage for fans of the cult Soviet rock 7musician who died it becomes a vital symbol, breathing life into the story. Ivan GRAand Margarita’s flight on aged 28. Just after turning onto Nikitsky boulevard, from Bezdomny´s wild chase of Woland N A 20 TNY PER Arbatskaya Ploschad, on the right hand side of the street, is the broom both take whilst Mar. 48 the characters via Arbat, MAL 24 14trinkets, that wink an antique shop, which holds fascinating garita and her husband are described as living in “the entire 1 . 6 N IKITS ROCHDELSKAYA 4 KAYA on one of the UL. at passers by from the15window displays beckoning them in. top floor of a magnificent house in a garden UL. 5 13 lanes near the Arbat”. L. AU OD 5G 190

arbat dining

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SREDNY KARETNY PE . PER SKY V O 5 EN IM Y PER. USPENSK OP MAYAKOVSKAYA 0 R 1 . A 1-Y KOLOBO PER 4 ST RNY YA TV GT ER E D SK AY . A One of Arbat Street’s most famous inhabitants was the UL PER . . UL SKY The Mayakovsky theatre 2 OY B dating back author, poet and dramatist, Alexander Pushkin, whose old YIN has a long 1history S 2 STN actors such as TA saw world-famous A to 1920. Its stage S R home has now been turned into a memorial and providing ST NA 3 2 Sarah Bernardt, Eleonare Duse and Ernst . von 1Possart, an 8 exclusive insight into the private home life of the young PL . and because of their presence it was also ER YA known as the 3 writer. In 1831, Pushkin lived in a small Eflat A R. in number 53, K YP SK . NS PUSHKINSKAYA I “International” theatre. Another person connected to YP V R K Arbat Street, with his wife Natalya Goncharova. Regular O PE SH TR Y the theatre PE PU CHEKHOVSKAYA was Vsevolod Meyerhold, who had a huge performances are held here by actors and singers in the P NSK KY ER. . IKHI S Z R O V E influence on E . modern theatre in Russia,Y Pbut - as many large drawing room. L. K SH ER SK during Stalin’s MA LA those TVERSKAYA days - died in O1940 YP ZIT Amodernizers SK .P K L N O purges. The theatre remains one of Moscow’s favorite TI B Y S 36 . ones and its actors are among the most famous in 3 ER P Y Moscow and Russia for that matter. The Mayakovsky SK As well as being home to many 1authors, Arbat Street 9 EV feaPER NY iconic theatre stages classical pieces from Gogol, Dostoevsky OV O tures regularly in Russian literature. In Bulgakov’s D NIK I H S R and Chekhov. One of these plays, Marriage by Gogol,STOLE PI BARRIKADNAYA “Master and Margarita” we see references to SArbat appear

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EINY AYA KIEVSKY Town House RUZH22 VSK VOKZAL KIE QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. 4 Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 4951-Y N720 EO PA 10 LIM 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€. 15 OVSK 4 Y PER. 9 PTASW See full review on page 33. 1 Funky Lab BURD 22 ENKO UL. QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar. com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW See full review on page 30. 2 Club Garage QС-4/5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs. PAESW See full review on page 38. 3

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Zamoskvorechye, a neighbourhood in the centre of Moscow, spans multiple centuries: here one may be just as likely to find 18th century wooden structures fighting for real estate 10 KRASNOPRESN ENS KA on the same street as a glittering 21st century business cenYA NA B. tre or hotel. The contrast is undoubtedly one of this district’s UKRAINA HOTEL PIERmuseums, withcharms, as is the collection of churches and out the tourist hordes one could find across the river. Indeed, 36 32 the name of the neighbourhood means ‘across the river,31’ literNOVOARBATSKY 23 ally, on the right or southern bank from the. Kremlin. MOST R YP SK This area was first settled in In its early Vcentury. 3 the 14th ZO U T days the district was the home toKUvarious communities, TOCHNY PER. enclaves, and professional quarters. Ul. Bolshaya Ordynkais PRO 8 2-YA BOR Tatar past as “Orda” a testament to this neighbourhood’s ODI NS YA UL. refers to the Golden Horde. Royal gardenKA attendants and mint workers, tanners, soldiers of the streltsy (armed Russian guard units from the 16th-18th centuries), as well as court translators all made their homes in the area. In the BOL . O ROG OM time of Peter the Great, much Dof the court was transferred BORODINSKY ILOV MOST SK A UL SKAYA UL. SMOLEN . to St. Petersburg and ZamoskvorechyeAYexperienced signifi7

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HA 13 E Church of the17 Resurrection in Kadashi 10 V PE CHOCOLATE FACTORY SKAYAUL. MAL. SU 3 R. SKO 3 1 KHAREV 24 RN 8 SKAYA PL YA . Once the tallest building in Zamoskvorechye, this church ZH UL NY . KAZANSKY VOKZAL 12 is in need of quite a bit of restoration, but then again the PER. One of Moscow’s most BO 2 L. S UK NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. HA REV 4 last few centuries have been a bit ofSRETEN a SKYbumpy ride. Since beloved manufacturers K 10 AYA P TUPIK L. SREDNY KARETNY PER. . . PER. TRIUMFALNAYA PL. its construction in 1687 in the Baroque style, it has - the EVSKYMoscow PER Red October ChocoBOL. SUKHAR SA PER DAE V PER. NY DO SKY V 1 VA O 8 5 YA EN 5 -SP been robbed, vandalized, and asVERSTO a Vstable by Napolate15 Factory, moved to a POSLEDNY PER. used SELI PER. . AS PIM PENSKY PER US S O KA 27 10 NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL. BOL. GOLOVIN PER. AR YA AL. GO 1-Y KOLOBO PER. 4 ST LOVIN VSKY PER UL leonic troops, a KGB archive and a Mrecreational club for a site further out of the city RNY PER. . YA TV PUSHKAREV PER. PROSV GT ER IRIN PE DE SK R. EVSKY PER. LU SERGI nearby sausage factory. Its bell, which supposedly weighed centre a few years ago AY KOV PE BOL. PE . TROVS A R. ASHCH UL PER KY L. KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER. . KY . EULO L. BU UL Vthe INS overBUsix tonnes, is rumoured to be kept in and as the old building’s PER. Bolshoy Thea12 NOY AY SY 2 SK PER. PECHATNIKOV RYBNIKO ST TA IT A 12 5 S R N 1 V PER. ST NA 3 SRETENSKY BUL. 12 tre and used2for productions Attempts inMYAS 40 conversion into a luxury ROZHDESTVENSKY of BUL. Boris Godunov. . PL . . ER YA . UL DA 20 KA YP ER BO 16 recent years to knock down historical buildings surroundslowed down, the artists YA moved in. SK LOresidential complex . NS R. I YP S V 2 E NA R K P 3 O Y PE AN AYA SH TR VSK DN 15 ASM PE PU NYE SKY P RO ing the church and replace them with a luxury apartments The current include the Lumiere Brothers PhoB 3 ARITO 2residents O HIN 4 KY ER. 1 . B A IK G 4 S RA Z GU . O OB KHMAN O 11 ER AY . KH BOL. EV RO 15 R. OVSKY L. K YP R. AR O PSEYRA BOL SH Y PER. VP PER. SK ST 1 RO K MA PE TN PE LA ER. and offices were 4metKISELN with complaints from tography Centre ZIT HOVSKY Pretrospec8 ER. locals. The IKO KY NY that regularly stages4 great PA 12 KO L. AN NS V I O 1 M T 1 B PE 3 R 2 SY 36 R. FU . and local photographers from the threat of being surrounded by apartment blocks still looms, tives of international 3 R. 3 UL 2 CH VARSONO PE VA FYEVSKY IST KY PER. 2 KO 19 VS OP but inside, the church’s icons and friezes are as quiet as if modern age all the in to the early 20th Century. ER. SH way back 6 YE . VP A RU N O KA 3 UL 48 M IK DN ZAK DO HN KA IRI OV Y B The Art Strelka design college L ES none of this history had ever happened. is also located here and SP OV AU UL 3 STO 19 9 R. L. KR . KUZNET PE PO SKY MOS Y N T UL. regularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts 3 EN 37 OL 12 K 22 O IV 3 . 4 Clement’s Church St. on their outdoor stage. On the food/drink side, this place KR PER PUSHECHNAYA 4 GRA KY UL. 3 6 NAT ERS 20 8 NY P 19 5 3 6 this is actually ERG ER. 9 Contrary to what the name might suggest a is very happening32 and at the weekend the area really fills 48 AM 2 K 5 MAL. 16 PER. 2 . ZENNY SKAY 4 Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for up with party animals cant depopulation,NIKITwith 12 ER BOL. KAheading to one of the factory’s A UL. the area being resettled by farmers YP OEZD 9 SK LNY PR V RA 13 TEAT GIE 1 the main church of Zamoskvorechye. OVKA UL. many clubs. www.redok.ru and merchants. Many wealthy businessmen moved in be35 2 4 OR a Roman pope and BOL. NI GE KITSKA 4 YA UL. KR 46 3 NIKITSKIE VOROTA Nowadays the church’s five domes and two stories areP2O ginning in Pthe 18th century (theyPL.were particularly concenOV 15 26 AR S KAT SK KURSKIY SEYKA UL. ERT AY 12 MARO VOKZAL AU NY and Ordynka Ul.) and they made bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic pinkish MUSEUMS trated on Pyatnitskaya Ul. PER L. . 13 BO 12 GO other such historical buildings, it found MANEZHNAYA ER. have called him the ‘Russian Shakered. But like many Ostrovsky Museum Some their imprint by building churches, such as the 175515 Church YP YA PL. N VL 22 ME 23 R A BO E L. N VE on byNSthe KAZ 6 itself hanging skin of its teeth during the Soviet speare, ’ and his output and national importance are indeed of the Saviour on Bolvany. KHLEBNY8 KY IKIT 6 4 TO PE SKA SH 7 KY PE R. S YA NY R. OV L. UL PE years when authorities hadILINKit9A Uearmarked for demolition and comparable, writing an impressive forty-seven plays, still the The area was wracked by floods14 in the late 1700s and the . KHL R. 10 KHO KR AS 6 NA UR Russian repertoire. transformation into a kindergarten. After escaping that fate bread and butter Dof Yet Alexander Ostrobeginning the 1800s, and as a 7result, land here was among VERKH YA ASO BOL.of MOLCHANOV NYAYA VSK PL KA UL. 5 SYRO YP 8 ER. MYA 5 it was then. (REDused to store books for the3Lenin State Library vsky (1823-1886) still remains overlooked abroad. the 28most affordable in Moscow. After the construction of a TNIC This mod22 HESKA SQ YA U U 2 NOVY ARBAT UL. AR L. VOZDVIZH ENKA UL. E) LE the playwright was born and the 21 and only in 2008 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The est wooden house is where dam in the 1830s the17threat was reduced and industry start2 PO O 11 TSOV N 5 . RO PER 8 VO VARVARKA UL. KOLOKOLNY POD church’s glittering exterior is matched by its renowned and surrounding area inspired the young Ostrovsky, who made ed to settle in. After the reforms of 1861 that led to the freeUL. 4 12 KAYA RS ZITO MPO KOof beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of his literary debut with sketches about Zamoskvorechye mering the serfs, the area became a working class stronghold. 25 16 21 icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis. chant life. Like many writers of his time, he found that makThe largest collection of Russian art in the world and ZN 10MosAM 25 VASILYEVSKY EN KA SPUSK PL. L. ing a literary career was a case of exasperating conflict and cow’s most popular museum is located in ZamoskvoreU U 13 T . 13 L. 8 RBA PER 2 Y A 5 SK MOSK NIT compromise with the censors, who would often take years to chye. 3 VORE MA Founded by merchant Pavel Tretyakov in the 1850s, 11 BOLSHOY NAB. 3 TSKA KAR ESKAYA YA NAB B. YANICH ZAMOSKVORETSKY 38 YA NA 39 . SEREBR LEVSKA approve a play, only today approximately one million visitors walk19 through the MOST NAB.return it16in a state that was hardly recYAto KREM KA VS RAU BERNIKO SHSK 10 2 B. AYA 7 ognisable. If already well versed in Ostrovsky’s works you will doors48 of the Tretyakov Gallery annually. Containing more AYA NA 36 NAB 22 5 SOFIYSK . NIK 30 11 30 16 OLO K PER. 6 SAD 6 YAM 11 documentation of performances of VRAZHE 18 appreciate the thorough than 130,000 works OVN SIVTSEV the gallery is located on Lavrushinsky SKA ICH YA U E S 1 18 KAY 3 12 L. BOLSHOY 33 AU 26 10 the uninitiated can enjoy the Pereulok adjacent to the Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi. L. 18 39 USTYINSKY his plays in photographs. Even BOLSHOY 32 MOST KAMENNY 3 44 13 2 . 7 numerous set design sketches on display. As one of Russia’s A separate exhibit on Russian art of the 20th century is loMOST PL A OV CHINNI AY 11 28 KOVSKA TN 36 4 22 YA NA LO TETERIN most performed playwrights, Ostrovsky’s plays have taken cated in a different building on 10-12 ul. Krymsky Val. B. 6 B. SKY PER. BO 2 NA 32 LUZHKOV YA GAGARINSKY PER. A K 14 . VS on many guises over the years and the plans for backdrops One particular building of interest in Zamoskvorechye is The AB MOST SHE AN DA VE S PRECHI 10 KA AY RK 1 10 1 OYM STENSK R. TN HN of art in themselves. 1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. and scenery are works House an enormous apartment buildKY PE the Embankment, ON Y PE LO VSon 7 R. YA OV 18 GLAZO BO 10 9 10 Y 5 12 AR 10 5 SKY P 11 8 7 AD RO ing 9in downtown that faces Bersenevskaya Embankment CHIS ISH EZ 15 6 4 D TY P CH 15 6 2-Y12 3 MALY PATRIARSHY 8 ER. ER. R. . E 1 1 E P R O V P 5 Y E ul. Serafimovicha on the other.BYIt was built . SK KAMENNY KY SKForest MOST Museum on one side INand 10 YP 13 INA UL AY DE 4 OVS IAT . SK 1 AU NS 4 MOST S RUN SAR UL P 2 NIT KY SH L. MIS KA ZHE PE 13 EV 11 KO 9 ESN An atmospheric museum about one3 of Russia’s greatest asfrom 1927 for the Soviet1O3ZHAelite. Writer Yuri R. SOL 8 L. L - 1931 as a residence RS 8 28 HIST ECH BO KY DRA N EN C 7 1 25 A 1 E X 4 1 -Y 10 OV R. . been ALE at ZA 14 SK sets and passions. ForestsHEhave the3 heart of the Rus Trifonov, who lived in theP2R1 building -PE1939, wrote PER 10 CH Y P from 1931 SKY KLIMENTOVSKY PER. ER AT . LNIC . PER OLMACHEVSKY PER. 5 OTE VS 2 TAG 9 people since before5-Y Kanyone had considered building the an eponymous novel29that details the lives ofYEthe residents in BOL. T 16 OVSKY KY 9 AN RK SKA OZE 13PER 4 YA . R. Uunexplored 8 L. Kremlin and to this day they remain vast and to the complex in the 1930s, many of whom were killed during Y PE 4 K S PO HEV C ME 6 R. 38 A 24 PE 35 MOLOCHNY PER. SKY LM 9 RA quite an extent. Part of the museum is concerned with this Stalin’s purges. During Soviet times KOitROB was notable for havPYZHEV 5 NT 8 Y TO SE TAR VP PER. S E Y ER KH a . 3 NIKlaundry, and a club last point and the worry that in actual fact the forests might ing separate telephone connections, OV ILK 6 O 11 PE 8 R. R for residents. The building currently hasV PE505 apartments and not be as permanent as we would like. Other displays R. 5 4 3 . 9 . E 1 10 ER B KOV P NA IV BRODNI . offices, a theatre, a cinema, restaurants, and stores. include miniature models of traditional wooden buildYA PER KA R SKY 15 NS . V E B O T . YAK PER Shortly after the RevolutionNOVO the Bolsheviks closed ings, some slightly baffled-looking stuffed forest wildlife HIS HN W SKAYA NA and SKY EC VIS 2 TAR 1 1 A KR PR T VA . 23 YM BOL BOLSHOY science, accompaniedZDEby a soothing YM looted many of Zamoskvorechye’s churches,COalthough 17 and plenty on forest SK KR 6 VO YP KR KRASNOKHOLMSKY 1-Y KHVOSTO V 0 YM PER. S .G R. 1 1-Y KAZACHY PER. SKY MOST UL NETSKY PER. NOVOKUZ 1-Y O PRO managed to survive the wrecking ball. The soundtrack of birdsong and trickling brooks. Effort has ob13 EZD M socialist love of 25 ER. concrete finally came to the neighbourhood and highrise viously gone into the appearance of the place and it’s quite KY P 16 KRYMSKY ZNETS 18 1-Y SPAS OKU V O N Y 2 4 ON ALIVKOV 19 SKY PER. blocks have started appearing in theMOSTlast two decades. an attractive museum. SPASSKY PER. 3 6 8

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April 9- May 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat get up dancing to the live music. Petrovich is officially a ‘members only’ club, so the best way to guarantee you get in is to make a table reservation in advance.QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24, bldg. 3, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 00 82, www.petrovich.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 02:00 - 05:00 Open 14:00 - 05:00. After 17:00 entrance only with a club card or prior reservation. €€. PAESW

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PAESW

Russian and Ukrainian

Chemodan This is the place to come for real Russian hunter’s fare. The menu is based around numerous old recipes found in a 19th Century Siberian cookbook - resulting in stag, bear, arctic goose and unusual Siberian fish such as white salmon and muksun holding court across the menu accompanied by other treats of the Taiga and homemade Russian vodka and other liqors. Portions are hefty and hearty and the warm and inviting 19th Century parlour interiors, discreetly lit by candles and old lamps, add to the feeling of shelter from a snowstorm, even in summer. Chemodan’s helpful staff, convivial atmosphere and satisfying food all make for a wonderful experience for fans of historic references and kitsch-free Russian cuisine.QB-3, Gogolevsky bul. 25, bldg. 1, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 38 19, www.chemodan-msk.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAEGSW

Cafe Chekhov Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff.QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAS

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

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24 Moscow In Your Pocket

Club Petrovich Step back into the Soviet 50s and 60s. This club is high on the nostalgia factor with everything from traditional home made drinks like the tart berry mors, to thick Russian bliny, big soups, meatballs and shashlik. Real Stalin-era cutlery, bowls and lamps litter the place which is crammed with authentic Soviet memorabilia. It gets really busy and the atmosphere is fun in here in the evenings - especially at the weekends when people moscow.inyourpocket.com

Oblomov Named after the fat, lazy gourmant who was the hero of Goncharnov’s novel by the same name, this romantic restaurant is styled like a posh Russian country house with various sitting rooms with fireplaces, verandas and portrait-filled dining halls. The staff also wear traditional dress and greet you in old Russian. The Russian food on offer is beautifully presented, lovingly made and comes in huge portions. We were particularly impressed with the salads which were a step above the usual pickles with mayonaise and the little pies which taste just like babushka makes them.QD-5, 1-y Monetchikovsky per. 5, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www. restsindikat.com/restaurants/oblomov/?lang=1. Open 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW Pavilion The white tuxedoed waiters, palm trees, period pavilion building, crisp tablecloths and various old family photos that decorate this large dining room overlooking the beautiful Patriarch’s ponds all combine to give off an elegant period feel worthy of an Agatha Christie novel and which the restaurant describes as ‘Soviet 1950s’. The menu certainly looks Soviet retro in design, but thankfully the food is all in the best traditions of rich pre-Soviet kitchens. The salads here are particularly good and should win over Russian salad skeptics. Make sure you don’t fill up too much on the huge moreish main dishes and save some appetite for one of their popular desserts. In winter you can watch as the locals skate on the frozen pond and in summer relax on the large waterside terrace.QB-2, Bol. Patriarshy per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 51 10, www.restsindikat.com/restaurants/pavilion/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Varenichnaya №1 If you want a genuine feel of Soviet Russia, Arbat’s Varenichnaya №1 is the place to visit. The menu is a prime example of authentic Soviet cuisine at it’s best: generous helpings of delicious pelmeni, vareniki both sweet and savoury and traditional Soviet desserts. Hailed as some of the best dumplings in Moscow, the price comes as somewhat of a shock, to see how affordable it is. The interior has a jolly atmosphere, with bright colours and nostalgic items from the Soviet era decorating the inside, and book shelves full of tattered but loved copies of Russian and Soviet literature. A popular lunching place, there are often queues of people waiting for a table.QB-3, Ul. Arbat 29, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 12 11, www. varenichnaya.ru. €. PSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian cuisine

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything. Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka). Soups and salads Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka. Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Main dishes Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce. April - May 2014

Where to eat Asian and Indian Aromass This Indian restaurant, which features a number of dishes from the Kerala region on its menu, gets reviews so good online that something almost seems amiss. Indeed, I knew one long-term expat who travelled at least once a month fully across the city to eat here. Located in the south of the city along the orange line, the food, the service and the ambience do not disappoint. There is an excellent selection of vegetarian options, Kingfisher beer, and plenty of seafood options which is no surprise considering that Kerala straddles the Arabian and Laccadive Seas. The dosas, tikkas, and seafood dishes all come especially recommended and Aromass will deliver anywhere in the city. The only minus of the place is that the portions are a bit small considering the prices.QUl. Krzhizhanovskogo 20/30, bldg. 1, MProfsouznaya, tel. (+7) 495 543 54 26, www. aromass.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Kitaisky Kvartal The menu at ‘Chinese Quarter’ features plenty of dim sum, noodle dishes and some less well-known Chinese options, and vegetarians will find there’s a good selection. Business lunches cater to the very hungry - though they cost 350Rbl, that’ll get you unlimited amounts of the tasty oriental salad bar and from selected hot dishes as well. We recommend the refreshing homemade jasmine iced tea, which you may want several glasses of if you pick an especially well salted dish. The bamboo décor and unintrusive music mean this is a relaxing sort of place, even at their restaurant on the busy Taganskaya Pl. Also at Pr. Mira 1 (metro Sukharevskaya).QE-4, Vorontsovskaya ul. 2/10, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 32 02, www. chinachain.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PASW Maharaja Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny.QD-2, Starosadsky 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, www.maharaja.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW

Where to eat MEGU Popular in New York’s fine dining circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply the premier Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to find out what Japanese service standards and fine dining are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t even get us started on the fish! The discreet atmosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget.QA-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www. lottehotel.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. €€€€. PAEW Menza Japanese noodles for those on a budget. Order your meal by ticking the boxes on the order forms and then handing them into the waiter. Disco tunes play, and your food arrives in minutes. It doesn’t feel like a fast food joint (you don’t get hot towels at McDonald’s for instance) but our meal came in around ten minutes. Warehouse loft location, friendly service and Japanese beer which is light on the fizz and the roubles makes this place even more democratic. Also at ul. Rusakovskaya 22 (metro Sokolniki). QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 32, bldg.1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 32 40, www.menza-lapsha.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. €. PASW Roni Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seating has a casual feel to it, but the chandeliers, low lighting and house music remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt this kitchen really knows what it is doing.QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. €€. PASW Tan It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by

26 Moscow In Your Pocket

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the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www. restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAESW U-Me U-Me means “dream” in Japanese. Sitting in pan-Asian furniture with kabuki characters on the walls, you soon realise that this is no ordinary restaurant. Japanese rice as it should be, typical side dishes, fresh ingredients, authentic flavours. If it’s good enough to keep the Japanese in Moscow satisfied, it’s good enough for me. Their extensive business lunch menu, including takeaway bento boxes, is matched by the wide selection of sashimi and sushi. Reservations essential in the evenings and weekends; they even deliver.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 38A, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 795 621 78 40, www.u-me.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVSW

Beer Restaurants Bavarius In the warmer months there’s a huge atmospheric beer garden out back, otherwise jump down the rabbit hole that is the restaurant proper and find your way to a free bench. The beers are quality and keeping in with the Oktoberfest theme are available in huge tankards, which is good because the service can get really slow and chaotic and you can probably glug down two half litres by the time food order arrives. That said the wait staff in their Bavarian get-ups are friendly and seem to be trying their best, which is not what Moscow usually has a reputation for.QB-1, Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. 2/30, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 11, www. bavarius.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW British Queen British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its sleeve - from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar, and on into the Queen Mary dining room. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical British boozer, and it boasts the welcome sight of beers from Cornwall’s St. Austell Brewery among the usual suspects on tap, closer inspection reveals it to be surprisingly Russian. Not only is the menu monolingual, it also steers away from typical pub grub in favor of the soups, salads and zakusky of a “Pivnoi Restoran”. Nothing wrong with that, but an odd decision given the Brit branding.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 226 23 23, britishqueen.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAESW Chelsea Gastro Pub There’s nothing like a great British boozer, as many Moscow imitations have found to their cost. Chelsea is among the latest to attempt to translate the concept, and like most of its rivals it manages both hits and misses. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

big thumbs up for the bar that greets new arrivals - dark, intimate and unpretentious, it feels like a place where fast friendships can be struck over a pint. Applause also for an extensive selection of Sunday roasts, and a well presented pint of Boddington’s bitter. But the ambience of the main dining room, with its pictures of Maggie Thatcher and the Queen Mum, somehow vaults beyond the gastropub target and lands somewhere uncomfortably close to a tea room, albeit with big screen sport on offer.QB-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Durdin Beer hall Durdin has five original home brews on tap, and luckily they’re available in a taster of five small glasses for the price of a regular 0.5L glass. Served with grenki (deep-fried bread with garlic), this is the perfect start to any beer drinking adventure. Those watching their cholestrol better stick with salad. The sausage specials are delicious and the cabbage and potato garnishes are spicy and colorful. If you do order a large platter, be warned that they will take some time to assemble - in fact anything you order takes a while to arrive, so be tactical. You can also order beer by the keg up to 20L and also beer to take away.QС-5, Ul. Bol. Polyanka 56, bldg.11, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 52 00, www.durdin.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW April - May 2014

Where to eat Gambrinus A traditional Czech style beer restaurant with excellent brews and mighty Czech food to wash it down with. The huge platters of sausages are always a good choice while the Czech duck with apples and the ubiquitous sauerkraut is one of many extremely filling meaty main dishes. Alongside the Gambrinus home brews there are also German classics such as Hofbrau and Paulaner to be enjoyed and it’s all available by the litre as well as in the usual 0.5 litre tankards.QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 20/1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 608 15 19, en-tzvetnoy. gbsbar.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Harat’s Irish Pub This is not the Irish pub for watching sport in. The TVs are constantly showing rock concerts on DVD, and as it turns out, judging by Harat’s popularity there are a lot of people who like to go to rock music pubs which don’t show sports. With its tattooed bartenders, rock music soundtrack and dark and moody décor, there’s a grungy edge to Harat’s which makes a welcome change from the usual style of Irish pub to be found in Moscow. There is also a second Harat’s pub hidden in the end of the courtyard at Strastnoy bulvar 4, bldg. 5 (metro Pushkinskaya) which often has live music.QB-3, Ul. Arbat 23, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 965 377 01 36, www.harats.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAW

food from former republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meatfilled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). 28 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Probka This German beer restaurant, behind the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, is an extremely warm and relaxing den with woodpaneled walls covered in Bavarian pennants. There’s two halls; the main hall, with rows of tables, and a smaller hall for quieter chats. Beers served here are mainly German brews which just cry out ‘down me with large orders of Nuremburg sausage!’ If you’re feeling indecisive or feel the call of the beer gourmand, try their six- beer taster special.QUkrainsky bul. 15, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 243 33 36, www.realbeercard. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PASW Sally O’Brien’s The green lights, scattered Irish memorabilia, football scarves and gothic wooden booths couldn’t help this pub recreate even a lick of authenticity, which happens to be the reason why people go to “Irish” pubs outside of Ireland. From the super high Soviet ceilings and massive rooms, to the service and the clientele, this is clearly a Russian joint. On the upside, the pubs serves decent food and drink including Irish stew, and if you are getting together with a large group of friends, the Russian atmosphere and the techno are likely to fade into the background.QC-4, Ul. bol. Polyanka 1/3, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 959 01 75, www.sallyobriens. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PENSW Stirlitz Stirlitz is a laidback beer restaurant popular with fans of German beer and especially those with big appetites. There’s a great list of famous and more exclusive beers to choose from. The layout of the restaurant has hints of the German beer hall, with long benches and many tables moved close together to give space for large merry-making groups. Waitresses wear sexy Russian versions of the traditional Bavarian costume and in another great evolution of German traditions beer is available by the litre and also even in three litre ‘beer towers’. Also at pr. Kutuzovsky 4/2 (Kievskaya).QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, www.stirlitz. su. Open 24hrs. €. PASW

Caucasian and Central Asian Gayane’s An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food. Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark blue line) metro station. QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Khacha-puri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www. hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PAESW Kish Mish This kitsch and friendly restaurant takes you straight to Tashkent - apparently everything from the cushions to the waiters’ traditional garb is all imported from Uzbekistan’s capital. It gets particularly packed at lunchtime when the business lunch set menu (advertised on the tables in Russian) is running. The plov (meat and pilau rice) or the manti (large meat dumplings) are excellent choices, as is the warm and satisfying kifta-shurpa (a light soup with vegetables and meatballs) although you may well also be tempted by the smell of the sizzling shashliks or the extensive salad bar.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 07 03, www.novikovgroup.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €. PAS Madame Galife If you are lucky enough to get your way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in.QD-1, Pr. Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www. madamgalife.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. €€. AESW Sakhli Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal.QС-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAEW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Suliko on Patriarshie Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really big.QB-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www.suliko. ru. Open 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PASW

European Cafe Tchaikovsky A sprawling café and restaurant understandably popular with theatre and classical music enthusiasts as it is located right in the centre of Moscow theatre land and literally underneath the Moscow Conservatory. Dark lighting, leather and mahogany furniture and elegantly dressed waiters create a pleasantly grand atmosphere although a bit more classical music on the stereo would perhaps better suit the surroundings. Regardless the menu is packed with well-made Russian classics and a wide selection of pizza, pasta, grilled fish and the like meaning there’s something for everyone. Tchaikovsky also has an extensive selection of great cakes, pastries and other desserts to sample if you decide just to pop in for a coffee and a snack.QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 14, novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/chaykovskiy/. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet April - May 2014

Where to eat Sunday brunch A luxurious Sunday brunch is undoubtedly one of the highlights of the Moscow culinary scene. Mountains of gourmet food items including oysters, lobster, Kamchatka crab, roast meats, sashimi, exotic dishes from the Far East and of course caviar served up with endless amounts of wine, fresh juice and champagne and a huge sweets spread for dessert is a treat not to be missed. Baltschug Kempinski The Baltschug’s Sunday Magnum brunch is famous for being one of the most generous in the city, with no less than 40 different delectable dishes usually on offer and a one of a kind view of the Kremlin to go with it. Kids get their own play room complete with a mini BMW to drive around in while grown ups can sit back and enjoy their wine in peace.QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/ru/moscow/hotel-baltschug/ dining/sunday-brunches/. Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Adults 4,900Rbl (alcohol incl.), 3,900Rbl (soft drinks incl.), сhildren under 6 years free, from 6-11 years 1,950Rbl. TALEW Holiday Inn Moscow Lesnaya The Holiday Inn Lesnaya’s Red and White restaurant now offers a huge gourmet brunch on Sundays featuring the usual brunch favourites like smoked salmon, marinated tiger shrimp, Milanese salami, chorizo, smoked duck breast and roast beef. There’s also live music for the grown-ups and clowns to keep the kids entertained.QA-1, Ul. Lesnaya 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru/ bar. Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Adults 2,600Rbl, children 6 - 12 years 1,300Rbl, children under 6 years free. PTALEW Marriott Grand Hotel If there’s such thing as the king of Sunday brunch, Marriott Grand’s might be it - with the popular family Sunday brunch running too, it’s a great place to take the kids. The food on offer ranges from traditional roast meats, to creative oriental dishes, piles of fresh salads, pancakes, fresh fish, caviar and of course rich desserts. Imaginative seasonal brunches bring extra flair to the table. Autumn is in full swing with plenty of warming soups, hot puddings, succulent meat and a fine selection of wines.QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26, M Tverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Brunch in Samobranka restaurant 3,800Rbl (Argentinian wine), Grand Alexander restaurant 4,200Rbl (French wine). Children under 5 free, Children age 5 -11 1,200Rbl. PTAEW 30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Double Dutch The younger sister of Patriach’s Pond’s “Uilliam’s”, Double Dutch is a hip and stylish restaurant located on Tverskaya Yamskaya and a popular place for Muscovites and expats to drop in for lunch or post work drinks. The food is very tasty, dishes are comprised of an interesting blend of European flavours including those such as rabbit, quinoa and quail. Uilliam Lamberti adds his own personal touch with his famous Double Dutch honey cake. Don’t forget to check in on Facebook each time you go, as you will be rewarded with a free burger for your third check in!QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 7, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 85 55, www. ginzaproject.ru/moscow/Restaurants/DoubleDutch/ About. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that while presenting it all in a beautiful and funny way, the food is just plain good, with a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and with very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location. Is all this even possible in Moscow? It sure is, this restaurant deserves its visitors. QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW Hediard Welcome to a small corner of Paris in Moscow. Hediard is the equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate factory for French cuisine. The shop downstairs is packed with all kinds of foodie delights from beautifully decorated cakes and handmade chocolates, to Camemberts and bries, to all kinds of pates and chutnies. The cafe upstairs is delightfully sophisticated, if not a little small. However what it lacks in seating space, it certainly makes up for with a menu over 44 pages long! For those with a sweet tooth, head straight to the patisserie/ dessert section where you will be faced with the virtually impossible task of choosing between freshly made macaroons,eclairs, tarts and many more culinary delights.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www.hediard.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck conmoscow.inyourpocket.com

fit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments.QC-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www. lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW Tapa de Comida Viva Espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and feels Spanish inside and out, complete with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open in Moscow and is still probably the best. The price to size ratio on the tapas dishes is nothing like on the Iberian peninsula - but that’s just typical Moscow, you get used to it.QC-1, Trubnaya ul. 20/2, bldg. 3, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www. tapasbar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€€. PAESW Yornik Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general design and atmosphere goes against the name and is wonderfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outlandish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel bar look and service remains discreet but professional making it a great place for private business discussions or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics such as excellent handmade pelmeni, borsch and other international winners.QB-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW

French Jean Jacques This popular French bistro boasts a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare. Waitresses in their black waistcoats bustle around the red and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and millions of wine bottles in on-site storage. They do breakfast, lunch and keep going on into the night with carafes of house wine. Water from the cooler is free of charge, be sure to ask them to bring a bottle to your table. Also at Tsvetnoy bul. 24, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy Bulvar) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2 (metro Taganskaya).QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 38 86, jan-jak.com. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW Les Menus With a regularly changing and innovative French menu from three Michelin starred superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire, Les Menus is possibly the most exciting haute cuisine www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

French restaurant in the city. The atmosphere and impeccable service is focused on enjoyment rather than snooty dress codes. The menu, which is packed with innovative French delights made from a fine balance of interesting ingredients not often seen in Moscow, changes all the time with Gagnaire frequently visiting Moscow to update the dishes to reflect his current inspirations. During weekdays there’s an excellent set lunch menu which changes every fortnight offering two or three courses plus tea or coffee. QA-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 05 15, www.lottehotel. ru/restaurant/pierregagnaire.asp. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. PAEW

International Art Clumba Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural features. Patrons are a laidback mix of in-the-know graphic designers, office workers and design school students.QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www. artclumba.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW April - May 2014

Where to eat open terraces

As spring melts into summer, Moscow’s streets are transformed. Gone are the grey, slushy winter passages where a short stroll leaves shoes and trousers spattered with mud and grime. Instead the city’s open spaces – and there are more of these every year thanks to the growing number of pedestrian zones downtown – turn green and cafes spill out onto sideways and terraces. It might be at odds with the traditional image of hearty Russian food served up before a roaring fire, but dining al fresco is one of the summer highlights, whether that means café culture or heading to the countryside for a ‘shashlyk’ barbeque. Moscow In Your Pocket picks out some of the best places to eat and drink in the open air: Le Pain Quotidien QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 45 60, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €. PASW Madame Boulanger QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madame-boulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW Palazzo Ducale QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 64 04, www.palazzodukale.ru. Stary Telegraf QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 22 44, www.tverskaya7.com. 24hrs. €€. PASW Dandy cafe There’s a place in central Moscow where you can go for breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, dancing and then brunch, so basically you never have to even leave! Dandy cafe on Novy Arbat is a favorite among hipsters, expats, businessmen and trendy cosmopolites alike. So why has this place established itself as one of the hippest and most popular places in the capital to hang out, feast, drink and dance? The food and drinks are superb yet prices don’t pinch, the low-key ambience allows guests to unwind, relax and be themselves and fun events take place almost on a nightly basis.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 38, www.dandytimes.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. 32 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Kalina Cafe The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, late night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up.QС-4, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www. kalinacafe.ru. Open 11:30 - 06:00. €€€. PEW Kon-Tiki The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties. The authentic Hawaiian style cocktails are moderately priced, so forget your worries and enjoy the rhythm of a salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the Aztec Surfboard or Ginger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www. kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAESW Minselkhoz There’s a growing trend in Moscow for eating locally produced products and Minselkhoz is one of its flag-waving leaders. As you enter the restaurant, which is situated in the atrium of an upscale business centre, you are greeted by the deli counter where you can buy fruits, olives, homemade jams, cold cuts and the like to take away for a high price. Over in the restaurant proper, the menu offers a large mix of simple Russian and European classics as well as more complex creations. We would advise opting for the simpler dishes which allow the organic ingredients more chance to shine.QС-2, Berlin House, ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 19 69, www.novikovgroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Neskuchny Sad This restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a renovated barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite Gorky Park, the rooftop veranda has views of the parks on the other side of the river and down to the Kremlin. The cool river breeze and cane armchairs add to the air of being on a luxury cruise. Neskuchny Sad serves classic dishes as well as Italian cuisine, with large pizzas. The cocktail moscow.inyourpocket.com

menu is artisan and extensive- we tried the Lychee Martini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau Fizz. If you do indulge in the cocktails, please note that the boat sways slightly on the water, so it’s not just you. Neskuchny Sad is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book ahead.QB-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. €€€. PASW Pelman Hand Made Café Filled dumplings in all their forms have got to be the world’s ultimate comfort food, and if that’s your formula for making a restaurant you would have to try pretty hard to be anything other than just great. Pelman offers more than just pelmeni - there’s also vareniki and international variations on the theme such as dim sum, gyoza, ravioli and profiteroles. Whilst 200Rbl will only get you 10 or so pelmeni here, they’re doused in butter and full of wonderful calorifical things so you hopefully won’t feel cheated. You can opt to take them away or eat in, where the jukebox will serenade you with some lively tunes. There’s also a ‘complaints wall’ which you’re welcome to write on, though we didn’t spot any criticisms on it.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 68 83, pel-man.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 23:00. €. PASW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures. The White Room is available to hire for private parties.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW The Sad The Sad is the perfect place for a romantic dinner for two or a big social supper with friends. With the low “sit, back and relax” sofas, exotic plants and flowers that reach the ceiling, each table feels private but not claustrophobic, with the various songbirds dotted around the place adding to the garden-like atmosphere. The food is beautifully presented and in keeping with the theme of the restaurant, the menu features several exotic twists, including melt in the mouth deserts, caviar of all different sorts and oil to dress your food infused with everything from pomegranate to kaffir lime.QC-4, Yakimanskaya nab. 4, bldg. 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 81 08, www.ginza.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Town House A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure. com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW Vanil Vanil has been around a while and has a faithful following of Moscow’s rich, powerful and good looking set, plus the odd minor celebrity here and there. Once inside sink into one of the plushy designer chairs and be cocooned against the hustle of the busy streets outside. For the price, the food is not always as outstanding as you may hope, but here you are paying to see and to be seen and soak in the glamour. Most people head towards the more exciting Asian section of the menu, while there are also classic European steaks etc on offer too.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 1/9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 10 82, www. eatout.ru/restaurants/vanil. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PASW

Italian Mamma Giovanna This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PASW

April - May 2014

Where to eat MoMo This Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too narrowly - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh pasta, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served in a style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising. Its business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms, with its most spacious resembling a summer terrace, complete with wicker chairs. The other two are more low-lit and glamorous, and it is in these that MoMo’s plans to function as an exhibition space for modern photographers will come into play.QD5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Montalto The brains behind this pizza restaurant stick to the golden rules of cooking - do few things but do them very well. Although there are actually also one or two meat dishes and salads on the menu, Montalto is all about the fantastic artisan pizzas. The dough is fresh and yeasty and much thicker than the usual crisp thin Roman style pizzas usually found in Moscow and you can watch it being flung in the air by the chefs in one end of the room. The toppings are simple combinations given clever twists, such as Parma ham with some gruyere in the cheese mix or homemade spicy sausage with helpings of caramelized onions. The atmosphere is akin to a trendy New York loft, all clean lines, dark woods, exposed brick and slick lighting.QB-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 34 87, www. montalto.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria The real winner here is the pizza - it’s long and incredibly thin and arrives at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. There are also other Italian favourites on offer, but we are always tempted by the pizza. The smart staff and a soundtrack that for once does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti adds yet more fresh air to the usual formula. QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www.pizzasorriso.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Seafood Clumba Club Europe’s largest oyster bar - and it’s here in Moscow miles away from the sea! No need to fear though, high-tech fish tanks and specialist suppliers from the Russian Far East keep everything here fresh and the very accessible prices have already earned Clumba a secure following of oyster fans. The huge menu also takes in a wide range of international dishes, many inspired by fresh seafood, 34 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat that are given a great spin by the head chef who is particularly strong in his sauces.QA-3, Novinsky passage, Novinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 96 69, www.clumbaclub.ru. Open 09:30 - 22:00. €€€. PAESW Porto Maltese The popular Porto Maltese chain has opened a new venue, continuing the traditions of excellent seafood which have seen it pick up regular awards from the city’s influential publications and websites. The new site is in the Monarch Business Center on Leningradsky Prospekt, and the restaurant adds a touch of maritime derring-do to the slightly formal surroundings. The décor has a strong sea-faring flavor, matching a menu which offers more than 20 different types of fish and seafood - all of which are regularly flown in direct from the Med. The ‘buzare’ fish soup is regarded as classic warmer, while exotic offerings include swordfish and skate wings as well as all the usual fishy favorites. Porto Maltese offers a welcome change of direction in a city where fish so often means sushi. Also at Bol. Spasskaya ul. 8, bldg. 1A (metro Sukharevskaya), ul. Pravdy 21 (metro Belorusskaya) and Leningradsky pr. 31 bldg. 1 (metro Dinamo).QLeninsky pr. 11, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (7) 499 236 45 12, www.portomaltese.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Sirena Ahoy there matey - welcome aboard Moscow’s most established seafood restaurant, serving wealthy Moscow diners since 1992 and still maintaining a high reputation for flying in some of the freshest fish available. The interior is very much new Russian opulence with a fish tank floor, a wood paneled interior resembling a ship’s cabin and staff dressed in naval outfits. Admire the day’s catches in the ice beds before the chef grills them up to perfection or pick out a live lobster for the pot. Sirena’s menu also features a long list of top quality European dishes made from fabulous crab, sturgeon and scallop and more as well fresh oysters. For a 20% discount head down on weekday lunch times. QD-1, Ul. Bol. Spasskaya 15, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 14 12, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ sirena/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAESW

Steak Houses Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www. funnycabany.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Goodman The good in Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is informal, relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care is put into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior plays host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear chef’s whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service. Their menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty chunk of salads and seafood.QB-1/2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman. ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAESW Louisiana American Steakhouse The impressive range of steaks offered in this deep-south America themed restaurant covers two A4 pages of the menu. Ranging from the standard rib-eye steak to the deliciously tender flank steak, cuts of veal and lamb, you can choose from Australian, Irish and American, grainfed or grass-fed too. The range of whiskies and grappas is equally impressive. Although sides such as fries have to be ordered separately, they’re not very expensive additions, and for the less devoted carnivores, a Tex-mex menu and salads are also on offer. Number plates from Kentucky, Tennessee and, of course, Louisiana, scatter the walls, which are also adorned with native American models, and one funny ‘high-society’ marriages column from an old paper. The waiting staff compliment the theme, all wearing checked shirts, with the males having gun-holsters slung over their waistbands.QD-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 30, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 42 44, www.louisianasteakhouse.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PAS

Cafes and Bakeries Bulka Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - their fruit pies are incredibly rich and tartly sweet creations and the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches cannot be faulted. In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. Also at Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya), Sokolniki park (metro Sokolniki) and Otrada shopping mall (Pyatnitskoe shosse, 7km from metro Mitino).QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 95 57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PASW Paul This inviting and cosy café, part of French bakery and patisserie chain Paul, has fast become a favourite in Moscow. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go, or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the petite café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Time for tea A bubbling samovar dispensing piping hot water for glasses of tea is one of the defining features of the Russian table – but the silver service tea ceremony at the Hotel Metropol takes the country’s most popular non-alcoholic drink to a whole new level. The afternoon tea ritual draws heavily on the elegant traditions of the 18th and 19th-century aristocracy, accompanied carefully chosen teas with a host of tempting tidbits from 3pm every day. Visitors – ideally in groups of 2-4 – are advised to book in advance via russiantea@ metmos.ru.

light lunches such as quiche or the irresistible croque-madame. On the sweet side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites - we especially love the strawberry tarts, chaussons aux pommes and custard pies, whilst their refreshing iced frappucinos are a great pick-me-up. Also at ul. Tverskaya 23/12 bldg.1, ul. Gruzinsky Val 28/45, ul. Pyatnitskaya 20, ul. Sadovnicheskaya 82, ul. Lesnaya 27 and Romanov per. 2/6 bldg. 7.QA-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38, www.paul-russia.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. PASW Stary Telegraf Open 24hrs, this cafe is good fix at any time of day. If you’ve just arrived from an early train, or you’re on your way home after a night out you’ll be pleased to hear that breakfast here starts at 06:00 a.m.and runs way on into lunch time. The menu is particularly strong in baked goods, pies, sandwiches, croissants and the like while larger mains are also available. Sweet and savoury topped waffles and unusual flavours of French macaroon such as white truffle are a particular highlight. Being so close to Red Square it’s a great refuelling spot while on the tourist trail, while those who like to go to coffee shops to read or work will find there’s always a quiet corner to hide away in.QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 22 44, www.tverskaya7.com. 24hrs. €€. PASW

Ya vegetarianets = I am a vegetarian Bez myasa = without meat April - May 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed.

Alternative and live music Duma This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, bldg. 3v (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 06:00. PAESW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www. kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 05:00. PENS Masterskaya Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio. There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later on, while during the day dreadlocked student types sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground floor you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane which serves excellent international food early in the evenings and incredibly loud house music later on. To find it go down the alley between ul. Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor.QС-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PTENSW 36 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www. barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAULSW Chertovka Amid the city’s many beer bars, Chertovka stands out for one thing alone - trains. Whether it’s a simple gimmick, or a means of easing the strain on the waiting staff, the Sretenka bar’s USP is a model railway which joins most of its tables to the bar and means your beer arrives to the accompaniment of whistles and electronic chuffing noises. It sounds daft, but it’s a rare group which resists that temptation to whip out cameras and snap away. The beer selection isn’t bad either, drawing heavily on the Fuller’s range from England and adding in a couple of seldomseen Belgian brews. The food is rather more ordinary - it’s a place for pints and snacks, not serious dining.QD-2, Ul. Sretenka 16/2, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 621 29 27, shertovka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Cuba Libre Bar Named after their signature drink, the rum and cola is probably the most Cuban thing about this busy bar. The music alternates between Shakira, Enrique and co. and the biggest summer pop hits of the last few years, with the odd special occassion Latino night and bar top dancing thrown in. Crowded with students and young professionals there’s a youhtful and flirty buzz in the air despite the lack of dedicated dance floor. Make sure to order your drinks at the bar or you will be going thirsty most of the night. Also at Ul. Pokrovka 17, bldg 1 (Kitay Gorod).QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky most 4, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 02 14, barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. PAXSW Darling, I’ll call you later Half way between pub and bar this curiously named drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport and plenty of large tables. Yet more encouraging is the chance to bring in board games or cards to play with your mates.QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 926 520 77 80, www. darlingbars.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Hard Rock Cafe This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun. Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early and eat before you go.QВ-3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri - Sun 24hrs. PTAEBS La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated dealbreaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine.QA-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www. labottega.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00. PAW April - May 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work.QA1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat and Sun 12:00 until last guest. PAESW Tiki-Bar In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, SadovayaKudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAEW

Clubs MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a postwork drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laidback alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays and Sundays are now live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. Open 18:00 until last guest. PAW The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar 38 Moscow In Your Pocket

Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4/5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub. ru. Open 24hrs. PAESW Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the megasuccessful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Dva Mohito pazhalusta! – Two Mojitos please! moscow.inyourpocket.com

Club Vermel Although it seems like a standard mood-lit trendy bar upon first entry, the venue is home to bands, cinema evenings and also a restaurant, all compactly organised in the brickwalled basement space. Having been open for 17 years, and with a director who’s run the place for 10 years, they have worked on some original twists to standard Moscow clubs. Alongside their britpop, rock and indie ‘vibe’, the venue is also home to weekend discos, and markets of handmade items also sporadically take place. As well as running a business lunch, the club also offers a ‘business dinner’ on MondayFriday between 17:00 and 20:00.QD-3, Raushskaya nab. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 33 03, www. vermel.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAESW For People by People For People By People is situated in one of Moscow’s prime spots on the Yakimanskaya embankment, with just the river Moskva separating it from Krasny Oktyabr. Although surrounded by trendy restaurants, night clubs and galleries, For People by People has still managed to carve it’s own niche with a colourfully decorated interior and lighting, serving a special gastronomic, conceptual menu and featuring popular European music and some of the best DJs Moscow has to offer.QC-4, Yakimanskaya nab. 4, bldg. 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 737 80 08, www.pplmoscow.ru. Open Tue Sat 17:00 until last guest. €€€. PALEW Gogol Club Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www. gogolclubs.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. PAESW Solyanka Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Just arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Don’t forget to carefully put together your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-thanthou dress code control - even if you were eating here earlier in the day, they will still force you through the ordeal later on. Solyanka also runs regular gay nights, check their website or facebook page for details.QD-3, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Open 10:00 - 06:00. PASW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

www.hudsonbar.ru +7 495 212-04-54

Cocktail Bars O2 Lounge Welcome to the most notoriously glamorous terrace in Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity you can think of has been up at this prohibitively expensive cocktail lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding view of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never was an economic crisis.QC-2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel, ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PAULW Secret Bar Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley off one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www. secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAESW April - May 2014

What to see

What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. 40 Moscow In Your Pocket

Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Chocolate MUSEUM Museum of Russia’s chocolate history It’s next to impossible to find a person who would confidently say that they do not love (or at least like) chocolate. But it’s much harder to find a person who knows all about this delicious treat’s origin and history. Now, a visit to Moscow’s Museum of Russia’s Chocolate History will make each one of you into a knowledgeable expert on this tasty matter! First, visitors are guided through the long history of chocolate, where many curious facts are revealed. History also has a taste: as you travel along the windy road that chocolate has traveled, you will get to sample several specially prepared types of chocolate from different epochs, starting with a chocolaty drink from the times of the Aztecs and finishing with a thick mixture concocted by Denis Diderot in 1751! Perhaps the coolest thing about this museum is that you will feel like you’ve just been teleported out of Moscow and into something like Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. You will get the opportunity to witness firsthand the intricate process of chocolate making, which begins with the refinement of the cocoa bean and ends with the packaging. By the end of all of this, you will be a total chocolate buff with an encyclopedic knowledge of the different types and an ability to distinguish between the real deal and surrogate products. Actually, we might have been wrong: the coolest thing is that the museum’s chocolate gurus will get you to try your hand at chocolate making! If getting your hands sticky and chocolaty is not necessarily your cup of tea but you’d like to take something home with you, you can always just proceed to the museum’s gift shop. Here you’ll find only the finest chocolate products, made from 100% natural ingredients, without any chemical junk, as well as fun and original chocolate gift sets that will put a smile on anyone’s face! If you’re in no rush to leave and feel like you could do with a bit more chocolate, just make yourself comfortable in the cozy at one of the tables and pick a tasty treat from the impressive food and drinks menu. QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. (entrance from 1-ya Brestskaya ul. 2, bldg. 3), MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 233 82 12, www.chocoandcacao.ru. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl.

April - May 2014

What to see RIVER CRUISES Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow The round trip journey takes two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a restaurant with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night. Note that you can also join and depart the cruise from the pier in Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury), although it is advisable to check the departure times first.QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www. radisson-cruise.ru. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats leave Mon - Fri between 15:00 - 20:00, on Sat, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance. Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW

Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). 42 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see Church of Pope Clement Contrary to what the name might suggest this is actually a Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for a Roman pope and the main church of Zamoskvoreche. Nowadays the church’s five domes and two stories are bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic pinkish red. But like many other such historical buildings, it found itself hanging on by the skin of its teeth during the Soviet years when authorities had it earmarked for demolition and transformation into a kindergarten. After escaping that fate it was then used to store books for the Lenin State Library; only in 2008 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The church’s glittering outside appearance is matched by its renowned and beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis.QD-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 26, bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, www.pcm.nichost.ru. Open 08:30 - 19:30. Novodevichy Cemetery This is the Who’s Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin.QLuzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. Open 09:00 17:00. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.

Pokrovsky Monastery This humble 17th Century monastery, which was extensively reconstructed during the 19th Century, derives most of its fame from Matryona of Moscow, the local saint who is buried here. Born in 1885, Matryona, although born blind was blessed from an early age with remarkable prophecy and healing powers. During the communist years she was an important figure in the clandestine Christian movement and is said to have performed many miracles. In 1952 she predicted her own death and died soon after. Her final wishes were that all who needed her should come to visit her even when she was gone and she would strive even in death to offer solace to those in need. QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www. pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Vysoko-Petrovsky Monastery Founded in the 1380s, in the same century as Moscow itself, this early medieval monastery was part of the original fortifications of the city. Today, the several churches inside have marvellous paintings and icons inside yet the exterior is really quite rundown. Today there is a friendly colony of cats, fed by the monastery faithful.QС-2, Ul. Petrovka 28/2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 17 78, www. obitelpetrova.ru. Open 08:30 - 20:00. Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www. vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www. poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl.

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Modern art centres

Moscow Multimedia Art Museum This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Moscow Museum of Modern Art Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli (Moscow’s contemporary art guardian and self-promoter) offers an impressive introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avantgarde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Most of the museum space is taken up by exhibits from new Russian artists, as well as regular exhibits from nonRussian contemporary artists. Other exhibition halls at Ermolaevsky per. 17 (metro Mayakovskaya), Tverskoy bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 (Kropotkinskaya), Bol. Gruzinskaya 15 (Barrikadnaya).QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Entrance may cost more for special exhibitions. Guided tours in English for groups (up to 30 people) 1,400Rbl + admission 150Rbl per group by prior arrangement by phone (+7) 495 231 44 06. Winzavod A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspirations on an industrial factory lot that used to be a wine factory. There are over ten galleries with exhibitions varying from Russian photography to American and British works. There are also artists studios, an alternative clothes shop and an excellent cafe. The location and industrial surroundings gives the feeling of being on the movie studio back lot.Q4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. April - May 2014

What to see Institute of Russian Realist Art If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www. rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. Nikolay Roerich Museum Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20th Century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. A must see.QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl.

Tsereteli Art Gallery It’s called the Russian Academy of Arts but informally known as the Tsereteli gallery as the building is stuffed full of the controversial Georgian artist’s garish and wacky over-sized art works. His famous sculptures are of course the major draw here. A scale model of his massive Peter the Great statue can be found next to his Columbus statue model which many claim after Columbus was never bought, are actually one and the same thing. The statues get steadily more amusing culminating in a very odd looking Princess Diana, Luzkhov playing football and tennis at the same time and a statue of Putin in judo mode. The huge central courtyard houses a very impressive big bronze apple that you can go inside and a whole city of characters that really have you wondering, where he gets all the time to do this.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 19, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 41 50, www.rah.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. 44 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU moscow.inyourpocket.com

Parks and Gardens State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolai was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gérard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoye show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. The exhibition runs until March 8, 2015.QGETTING THERE: From MTushinskaya, MRizhskaya, MDmitrovskaya. 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, Krasnogorsky District. Tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open.

Gorky Park The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular openair concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.park-gorkogo.com. Open 24hrs. Free wi fi available throughout the park. Park Pobedy Constructed in honour of Russia’s victory in the Great Patriotic War (World War II), park pobedy (victory) offers powerful reminders of Russia’s suffering during the war as well as providing views over the skyscrapers of Moscow. The entrance to the park is marked by a long promenade surrounded by fountains, which leads up to a 142 metre high obelisk covered in representations of scenes from the war. Behind the obelisk there’s also a war memorial museum and further on down the hill an exhibition of tanks, war planes and other heavy weaponry. Beyond that the park stretches on into forest and down towards a tributary of the Moscow river.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 7, Poklonnaya gora, MPark Pobedy. Open 24hrs. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Listen to the band

Muzeon Park on the banks of the Moskva River has reinvented itself as a cultural hot-spot in recent years – and the hipster hang-out is preparing to open its 2014 summer season. The first big event, on May Day weekend, is a festival of marching bands and brass bands from around the world. It’s far more than the sentimental strains of ‘Brassed Off’, or the college football entertainment of a US marching band: we’ve also got the raucous Balkan brass tradition, big band jazz and more on offer over the space of two days. But that’s far from all. Muzeon’s outdoor cinema screenings have also picked up a loyal following with their mix of classics, blockbusters and much-loved Soviet favorites. This year’s repertoire runs from Titanic to Moscow Doesn’t Believe in Tears, and the whole program is introduced by a performed from the Kino Cover Band (which performs movie soundtracks, rather than Viktor Tsoi hits). There’s also an art-and-craft market over the two days and a ‘silent disco’ (bring headphones, dance to your own playlist and take the sociability out of socializing). It all takes place under the noses of assorted Soviet statues, so your entertainment can be seasoned by reflecting on what a deposed Dzerzhinsky or a relocated Stalin might make of the sight of the hipsters of the world uniting. QB/C-5, Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabyrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 36 96, www.muzeon. ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Admission free. Guided tours should be booked in advance (+7) 499 238 33 96. Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills) Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular.QMichurinsky pr. 13, MVorobyevy Gory, tel. (+7) 499 739 27 07, www.vorobyovygory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. April - May 2014

Where to stay

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period April - May 2014. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

5 stars Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. The huge marble pillared ballroom doubles as a conference hall, while the second smaller hall houses the Janus restaurant.QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton. com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow Without actually being the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor members of the British royal family. Suites also have the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of design magazines. QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. 230 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Hotel National Rub shoulders with history here: this century old building is one of the grand old dames of the Moscow hotel scene. The location doesn’t get any better and neither does the guest list! Previous guests include Lenin himself. The hotel, while honouring the past, is reassuringly modern in service standards and management. The rooms house not only comfortable beds and renovated bathrooms, but also original furniture and antique fittings.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 201 rooms (Room prices start at 15,200Rbl). www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Lotte Hotel Moscow This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-ofthe-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very expensive spa. QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel Situated conveniently on Tverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. QC-3, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriottmoscowgrand. com. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Metropol A marvel of history, the Metropol has kept its original art nouveau exterior that stood witness to the revolution of 1917. The story of its famous founder, Savva Mamontov, and the hotel’s decorative mosaics can fill a book. Get ready to breathe in the atmosphere as most rooms are filled with early twentieth century furniture and original lamps.QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 10,000Rbl). Hotel Nikol’skaya Kempinski This five star hotel from the Kempinski group looks out over Lubyanka Square in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw away from Red Square. The hotel’s grand Art-Deco style echoes the turn of the century, when this former residence of Count Orlov became a luxury perfumer’s. Degas and Klimt style paintings adorn the walls of the rooms which are furnished with fine fabrics, gilded oak, marble and crystal. An original 1907 mosaic frames the windows looking out onto Nikolskaya street in the MosaiK restaurant, which serves Russian-European cuisine. QC-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.kempinski. com. 211 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel An absolutely monumental hotel, which with its 505 rooms and 29 floors, is easily the biggest luxury hotel in Moscow. The lobby takes in not only the reception, but also a huge interactive scale model of Moscow as it was back in the 1970s and the chance to buy a Rolls Royce. The rooms vary in colour schemes and size, but all benApril - May 2014

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Alexander Lyamin, Chief Concierge of Lotte Hotel Moscow. Please tell us something about yourself. I graduated from the Moscow State Pedagogical University, Faculty of Foreign Languages in 1996, but started my career as a concierge at the Baltschug Kempinski Moscow Hotel in 1995. In 2010, I took part in the opening of the new Lotte Hotel Moscow as a Chief Concierge. I am also one of the founders of the Russian section of the prestigious U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or, which plays a significant role in developing and maintaining the highest standards in the industry. What do you recommend guests to do if they ask for something unusual in or around Moscow? Visit the Lotte Hotel on April 4-8, as legendary Michelin three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire will be visiting us. He will present a new menu that will be novel and delicious. On April 12 we celebrate space flight and so I suggest a visit to Star City situated 25 km outside Moscow – which is where Russia’s remarkable history in space exploration began. Here you can see the Space Museum and the Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center. Visitors have a unique chance to talk with a real astronaut, see special simulators, go inside a Soyuz spaceship and try on a spacesuit. You can also book a weightless flight on a specially adapted IL-76 MDK plane. How do you like to spend your free time yourself? Moscow is my native city and I love its spirit, atmosphere and great cultural heritage. I like to spend time with my family visit the circus or theatre, or go to a restaurant. I like strolling along boulevards or going to Gorky Park and Sokolniki, which offer a lot of outdoor activities. Lotte Hotel is located near the Old and New Arbat streets, what makes them so special? Arbat is one of the oldest streets of Moscow, recently celebrating its 520 anniversary. For centuries it was the main road to the Kremlin and was the centre of Moscow life. Nowadays it is popular among Muscovites and tourists. There are apartment museums to Pushkin, Tsvetaeva and Lermontov. You can also buy all kinds of Russian souvenirs here. New Arbat was created in the middle of the 20th century and is now a very busy and lively street full of restaurants and shopping centers. What do you think is the biggest challenge for foreigners visiting Russia? To my mind the main barrier is the language, Cyrillic makes it hard for visitors to explore the city if they don’t speak Russian. However, Moscow is improving this by adding transliterations to help people. The Moscow Department of Tourism is also creating information centers to help tourists. 48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to stay efit from huge beds that you almost need a step ladder to mount and original Socialist realist art. The bathrooms with panoramic views of the city in the ambassador suites are particularly inviting. Dining options take in a wealth of options including an outstanding Iranian restaurant. QA3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radisson.ru/royalhotel-moscow. 497 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel Few Moscow hotels can boast the surroundings that Sheraton has, almost in the midst of the forest, quiet and brand new. Located a short (complimentary) drive from the Sheremetyevo Airport it is the perfect choice for those who appreciate an early morning stroll through nature and a rest away from the busy streets of central Moscow. The hotel boasts spacious rooms with large windows as well as a top-notch conference room, two restaurants, a top-floor area where breakfast and refreshments are served throughout the day and a very relaxed lobby bar. And for those wondering how you get to the centre, it’s just a half hour by the special aeroexpress trains from the airport.QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. 225 rooms (Room prices start at 7,500Rbl).

4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya Adagio aparthotel near Moscow’s Paveletskaya Station is perfect for travelers or businessmen planning on staying in Moscow for a while because guests get everything they need to make themselves at home without spending a fortune on a hotel. All apartments come with a fully equipped kitchenette, decent storage space and modern furnishing. Options include studios for 2 people and 2-room apartments for 4. The area is very safe and tranquil but at the same time extremely central with excellent transportation links.QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www. accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center The Izmailovo Hotel Vega is the biggest in the Best Western chain of hotels, with over 1000 rooms, 4 restaurants, banquet halls, conference rooms, a sauna and a gym, all situated just a few minutes walk away from Partinzanskaya metro station. The rooms are all comfortable and convenient, catering for all your needs, offering shoe shining services, tea and coffee and TVs and DVD players. The bedroom views look over the stunning, brightly coloured turrets of Izmailovsky Kremlin and the expansive grounds of Izmailovksy Park. QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 966 rooms (Room prices start at 3,300Rbl). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Stepping into Mercure Hotel from Bakhrushina ul. is like stepping out of 19th century Moscow and into a snazzy modern setting slightly reminiscent of Kubrick’s Space Odyssey. This design hotel features stylishly decorated rooms with all amenities (including robes and small kettles and coffee machines) necessary for absolute comfort and some open up a romantic view of Moscow’s rooftops. The spacious suites were certainly made to impress and satisfy the most discerning tastes with fine touches such as imported Arabic tiles in the showers and silk wall decorations. Central yet tranquil location, just a few minutes walk from Moscow’s Paveletskaya Station and the vibrant Pyatnitskaya ul. with restaurants, bars and shops.QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel Novotel’s latest addition to the Moscow scene is ideally placed amongst the glittering skyscrapers of the new Moscow City business district for those who like to work hard and relax just as hard as well. The flexible conference facilities leave nothing to be desired, whilst the suite category of rooms could host small meetings in themselves and come with a large sofa, separate bathroom for guests, and a Nespresso brand coffee machine for the caffeine-fuelled businessman. To relax after a hard day’s businessing there’s a spa with sauna and Turkish baths, a large restaurant, a free-standing fireplace in the bar for sitting down with the paper, calm minimalist design and beds of impressive proportions.QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www. novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

3 stars Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina Ibis is a brand trusted by travelers who appreciate a good night’s sleep at a reasonable price. With Ibis, guests know what to expect because it’s the same all around the world: standardized rooms, no fancy extras but an uncompromising quality of sleep thanks to the chain’s “Sweet Bed by Ibis” program for the cosiest and most exclusive comfort. The Ibis near Moscow’s Paveletskaya station follows a new style for the next generation of Ibis hotels with a youthful and informal design and some modernistic twists in the lobby. Although the location is extremely central (with the vibrant Pyatnitskaya ul. just a few minutes away) it is also very tranquil with many beautiful churches in the area. 24 hour bar and possibility to use gym and wellness facilities at an extra cost.QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl).

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

April - May 2014

Shopping Art salon on starosadsky This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the SikhoteAlin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves and of course Russian dolls. QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev QC-2, Galereya Ul. Tverskaya 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.artlebedev.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Dulyovsky farfor QUl. Shcherbakovskaya 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Gallery Mikhailov QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Gorizont - Valenki Factory Shop Q2-oy Kozhevnichesky per. 12, MPaveletskaya, tel. +7 (495) 645 84 64, www.gorizont.org. Open 09:30 - 20:30. Podarki vmeste s Vorovskim QD-2, Ul. Kuznetskiy most 21/5, MKuznetskiy most, tel. (+7) 495 626 01 52, www.svorovskim.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Russian gifts QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Shaltai - Boltay QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Shop in the museum of modern history QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru. Open , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing. Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

April - May 2014

Shopping RAKETA WATCHES Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com Ballerina Watch The ‘Ballerina’ watch’s design was inspired by the world famous Russian ballet and theatre. The red stars on the ‘Ballerina’ watch’s face refer to the ruby stars that were produced at the factory in 1934, and which adorn the tops of the Kremlin’s towers. Raketa watches have different designs on the back, and the ‘Ballerina’ watch features a unique bird and floral design. There are six strap options for the watch, including a genuine leather red strap, which matches the red stars, a white genuine leather strap to match the white dial option, a black genuine leather strap to match the black dial option, and a gold coloured stainless steel bracelet strap, which will delight everyone who loves timeless style. The ‘Ballerina’ watch is the epitome of the reliability of Raketa watches, the beauty of Russian women, and the glory of the Russian ballet. Babochka multibrand boutiques: Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. www.babochka.ru. Status watch shops: Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 www.status-watch.ru 52 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle Shopping Centres Evropeysky Shopping Centre Initially the layout can be disorienting but after you’ve adjusted it is well possible that you could spend whole days here. Quality restaurants and bars, saunas and health treatments and all the European brand shops that gave the centre its very name. Bliss! The perfect hideout when you’re in need of that injection of Western culture.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM A trip here is essential - this elaborate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed from limestone, marble and granite and was first built in the 1890s. Stalin took over the shopping arcade in 1928 to use as office space, and this was the place where the body of his wife Svetlana was displayed after her suicide, which is where the legend of her ghost wandering the halls comes from. In 1958 it became a shopping arcade again and is today one of Moscow’s most popular tourist sights.QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK Metropolis shopping center The western style mall to beat all other western style malls that are dotted around across Moscow. What makes this one so great? It’s filled with high street brands, a massive supermarket, has a bowling alley, pool hall and cinema on the top floor and, best of all, it is right next to the metro. QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Okhotny Ryad If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need - it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack.QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. JAULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market This plush shopping centre is a hipster’s paradise with high street brands like Mango and All Saints dominating the central floors and more unique boutiques and ‘pop-up’ stores occupying the upper levels and the basement level. One of the biggest draws of this shopping centre is the pricey organic market on the fifth floor. Smartly dressed market vendours deal out top quality fish, meat, baked goods and fruit and veg from their immaculate stalls while the aisles are filled with luxury imported foodstuffs. QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy. com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Cultural & Educational Centres

Expat Contacts

British Council QЕ-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, moscow@britishcouncil.ru, www. britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MLeninsky Prospect, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de. Le Centre culturel Francais QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 78, www.ccf-moscou.ru. Open 09:30 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, student@nesorussia. org, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, amcenter@amc.ru, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org. Allianz ROSNO Expat Football League QMGIMO University and Lokomotive Stadium, www. moscowfootball.com. American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qtel. +7 903 112 70 46, www.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. EXPATinRUSSIA QUl. Udaltsova 44/2, office 1-16, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 223 34 58, www.expatinrussia.com. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations Qwww.internations.org/expats/home/russia/moscow. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

The English International School Moscow EIS welcomes you to both our Moscow East campus for children aged 3-18 and our Moscow West campus for children aged 3-12 Highly qualified team of British teachers Additional language support for those new to an English International School British owned, British managed and British staffed A full range of sports, music, art & drama as well as academic subjects Study IGCSE and A Level with Edxcel and Cambridge Examination Boards

S: PRES pus STOPth-West cam mber

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+ 7 495 301 21 04 www.englishedmoscow.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

April - May 2014

Expat & Lifestyle internationAL Women‘s club Professional Women’s Evening Based on the runway success of the three Professional Women’s Evenings this year, the International Women’s Club is proud to announce a monthly edition of this event. All professional women in Moscow - both IWC members and guests - are warmly invited to join for one or more evenings of unwinding and networking, a key for a good business start or development in Moscow. The events start with an informal welcome and light refreshments at 7.00 pm, followed by a guest speaker. From 8.00 pm onwards, there is ample opportunity of socializing. After Mrs. Pieternel Boogaard, Managing Director at ING and Mrs. Kelly Shutt, Senior Associate at Dentons, and Dr. Lesley Czuma, Business Development Manager at Metro Cash & Carry Russia, our guest speaker this April will be Mrs. Bonnie van der Velde, founder of Moscow in your Pocket. Date and hosting venue of the upcoming evenings can be found on the ICW’s websites www.iwcmoscow.ru and www.facebook.com/IWCMoscow a few weeks ahead of each event. Contact: iwcgeneralofficer@gmail.com

russian for expats Cлава - Victory Day is celebrated on the 9th of May and marks the end of the second World War. As such, you’ll hear the word слава, “glory”, if you’re out and about on this public holiday. Слава is also commonly translated as “kudos”. Although “kudos” isn’t the exact translation and слава certainly isn’t used to express “kudos”, it is often used in conjunction with бог (God) as слава богу! (Glory to God or thank God!) Слава is also a fairly common Slavic name, for obvious reasons!

Liden & Denz QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle International Schools Atlantic International School QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Atlantic International School, Skolkovo QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British International School QUl. Bol. Akademicheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya Ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 971 86 26, www.mosmontessori.ru. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The Anglo-American School of Moscow QUl. Beregovaya 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, admissions@aas.ru, www.aas.ru. School hours 08:30 15:30. The English International School QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The International School of Moscow QUl. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

Religious Services Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Ul. Malaya Gruzinskaya 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru. Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QUl. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow International Seventh-Day Adventist Church QUl. Nagatinskaya 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Ul. Bol. Bronnaya 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.

internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

US Dental Care Well-established and long-respected American Board-certified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Q C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PAW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

The Expat Experience Please tell us something about yourself. My name is James Brown, I’m 35 and I’m a journalist and documentary maker for Russia Today. I grew up in Devon in the UK and completed my post-graduate diploma in broadcast journalism in London before moving to Russia in 2005. I worked as a news correspondent before joining the documentary department where I’ve made more than 50 films exploring the whole of Russia and occasionally beyond. Why should people make Moscow their number 1 travel destination? I know that people say New York is the city that never sleeps but I imagine that many of them have never visited Moscow! This really is a place that epitomises 24 hour culture. There’s really nothing you can’t get or anything you can’t do, day or night. Shoppers can choose from some of the world’s most exclusive brands, hedonists will love the endless bars and clubs and culture buffs have museums, theatre and a vibrant music scene. With the weakening rouble, it’s also better value to visit the Russian capital now than it has been for many a year. For Russia Today you travelled extensively, what was your most surprising experience? There have been so many, it’s difficult to pin down one particularly surprising experience. I’ve found myself drinking tea and discussing chess with the president of the Buddhist republic of Kalmykia, I’ve stood stock still as a mother bear and her cub foraged for berries in front of me in Kamchatka, I even joined the Russian paratroop regiment in 2013 to see what the young conscripts had to go though. It was the toughest few weeks of my life! One of the things about Russia is that it constantly surprises you. In a country this size you’re always encountering new cultures and people from a huge variety of different backgrounds. It’s what makes Russian travel so diverse and exciting. If there is one thing you could improve in Russia, what would it be? Russia has changed markedly since I arrived here in 2005 and in most cases for the better. Outside of Moscow though, there are many areas where infrastructure is still poorly developed and needs some serious investment. It’s especially visible when you’re driving. You only have to go on Youtube to see that Russian drivers have developed a bit of a reputation and it’s not helped by the fact that they often have to deal with roads in a bad state of disrepair. An overhaul of the country’s highways would make a massive difference and save many lives. You can find an archive of James’s films here: http://rtd. rt.com/films/discovering-russia-with-james-brown/ Follow him on twitter @jimbrownjourno April - May 2014

Business directory

Business directory WhAT type of Expat are you? Corporate Expats (Corp-pats) Typically Corp-pats have been posted to Russia/CIS with little or no previous experience of this part of the world, but their key strength is their in-depth knowledge of their company after years, if not decades with the firm, often in multiple locations. They are seen as a safe pair of hands and are almost always employed in senior level positions. Corp-pats almost always confine themselves to the ‘Expat bubble’, which in practice means living in a compound dominated by other foreigners and frequenting downtown bars & restaurants. Few learn much, if any Russian as the corporate language at work will be English and they see little need to immerse themselves into the local culture as they’ll be moving on within a few years anyway. Russified Expats (Russ-pats) Russ-pats studied Russian language and/or Russian literature, politics, history, economics at University and subsequently moved to Russia as they genuinely love the place! They are employed in a wide variety of professions (some run their own business, or work for someone who does), and often have family ties here, such as a spouse, children and perhaps have even purchased and apartment, or God forbid, a dacha! Others are in fact Corp-pats who have stayed on after their initial posting was up. There is also a third category, known as the Re-pat: Re-pats are people who left the CIS often shortly after the fall of the Soviet Union, but for a variety of reasons have decided to return to the motherland. Some felt disillusioned with life ‘abroad’, others found the going tough and didn’t make it, many wanted to be closer to their relatives as they age and a few even realized that from a purely business perspective, they could make more money & have a faster & more successful career back in Russia/CIS, having picked up business acumen & strong language skills abroad. Local Russians themselves are rarely positive about Re-pats, often viewing them as arrogant. Expats view Re-pats as Re-pats, whereas Russians simply view Repats as Russians who’ve lived abroad. The Moscow expat circle is extremely welcoming and easy to break into, particularly when compared to other cities in Europe. There are numerous social clubs, sporting activities, business associations and religious groups that welcome newcomers. They are by no means exclusively aimed at Expats, and can be a great way to get to meet locals. Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com

56 Moscow In Your Pocket

Accountants and Consultants

Tax: the fatal deadlines!

Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul.Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru. SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.

Two fatal deadlines are coming up soon: 30 April for filing your Russian personal income tax declaration and 15 July for paying the tax. Being too late means paying penalties. Not every foreigner (or Russian) should file a declaration though. The conventional wisdom is that you are taxable on your worldwide income if you have stayed in Russia for 183 days or more during the past year. This is true in most cases but it may not be true if your family still lives in your home country. If you have spent less than 183 days in Russia, you may still be taxable but only on income earned in Russia. The applicable rate then increases from 13% to 30%. Special attention though for those who own a house abroad: the difference between actual interest paid on a mortgage and the “benchmark” rate of 9% is considered taxable income and taxed at 35%! If all of your income has been paid by a Russian based employer who can issue you a confirmation of income and tax paid all the Russian tax due on your salary has already been paid on your behalf. This is the case for most foreigners now, since most people on a long assignment can only receive a visa if they first obtain a work permit. But if you were paid fully or partially (split payroll) by the head office, or have sold off some assets, or have spent a few months here on a business visa because your work permit did not get through, not

Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Ul. Krasnoproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru/mika_on_svkk/ frcc_in_brief. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Ul. Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club Qwww.britishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

all Russian tax due has been withheld from your salary and therefore you need to file a declaration. Paying tax in Russia is usually good news: you can claim a deduction, exemption or even a refund from tax paid in your home country. With a tax rate of only 13% on most types on income, Russia has one of the mildest tax regimes in the world. Filling out the declaration can get a little cumbersome. You are supposed to declare not only your total amount of taxable income received, but with respect to every single payment received the source (so who paid it), date of payment and currency. A free download to help you completing this tedious task is available from the website of the tax authorities (www. nalog.ru). Filing the tax declaration is done preferably by registered mail with a description of the contents. Payment must be done by 15 July and you are not going to get a tax assessment first. You have to make the payment yourself and from a Russian bank account. Communicating through regular mail in Russia is not very fast and often mail gets lost. This is why it pays off to appoint a representative who can prepare and file the declaration on your behalf, make sure your declaration is in the system of the tax authorities and that your tax payment gets allocated correctly. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 962 367 68 55, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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April - May 2014

Maps

Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.

A-1/2 D-1/2 А/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4

58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.

C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4

Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4

C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2

Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

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April - May 2014

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62 Moscow In Your Pocket

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April - May 2014

St. Petersburg

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.

Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:54 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

64 Moscow In Your Pocket

sightseeing Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Cruiser Avrora QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Kazan Cathedral QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 250Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. hhhhh www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. hhhhh W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. hhhhh

getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 64), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport. April - May 2014

St. Petersburg Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. hhhh Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. hhhh Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms. hhhh Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. hhhh AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. hhh

SHOPPING Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www. galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

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