Moscow In Your Pocket by Russia In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow June - July 2014

Summer Fun!

The best music festivals, green parks, river cruises and open terraces

Nature calling inyourpocket.com NÂ°33

Cool and cooling restaurants outside the city

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

Public transport

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10 Concerts and exhibitions Summer festivals Sport news

10 17 21

Features

Gorky Park. Photo by Ilya Timshin

22 Old and New Arbat 22 Zamoskvorechye 26

Dance and drink the night away

Where to eat

What to see

Russian summer menu Where to watch the World Cup Summer terraces Restaurants outside the city

28 29 30 36 38

Nightlife

40 44 44 45 47 49

The Kremlin River cruises Modern art centres Parks and gardens

Where to stay 50 Interview with concierge

Shopping

52 52 53

Raketa Watches Russian souvenirs

Business Doâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ts of doing business in Russia

54 54

Expat & Lifestyle 56 The Expat Experience

Maps & Index

Street index Metro map City map

58 59 60

St. Petersburg

www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket The building on Kotelnicheskaya nab. Photo by Ilya Timshin

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Foreword

In the News

There is an old stereotype among foreigners that Russia is a country of eternal frost and snow-covered streets where bears roam. We assure you it’s not true. There is also another stereotype that everything is extreme here. It’s always everything or nothing. This one is more accurate. It’s hard to imagine that only two months ago the streets of Moscow were absolutely white and it was freezing, and now, while we are preparing this issue of Moscow In Your Pocket, it’s almost 30 degrees. Summer has officially come to Moscow and it will show you the capital in all its glory. Congratulations, you’ve chosen a great time to explore the city! It is going to be a very busy two months in the city. Check out our special feature about summer festivals (page 17). Muzeon park and Gorky park, Arkhangelskoye and Kolomenskoe are some of Moscow’s nicest locations, where you can enjoy live music while lying under a tree and sipping an ice-cold cocktail. Famous musicians from all over the world will be coming to Moscow this summer. And they keep saying that the best open-air music festivals are held in Europe? Please! If you are not a music fan and the arrival of the sunny months means the arrival of the World Cup 2014 for you, we’ve thought about that as well. Admittedly, you are a bit far from Brazil, but we’ve prepared a special list of places (page 30) where you can watch all the games while enjoying delicious food and fresh drinks. We wish you all a wonderful time in sunny Moscow! Enjoy music, culture, football, sparkling cocktails, shashliks, green parks, fresh air and smiley people around you! summer! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.

Free water in metro E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com Editor&PR Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Tatiana Pole-Carew, Maria Stambler Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Cover story

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 33, 01.06.2014, 60 000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

The Pushkin Bridge was constructed in 1999 at the location of the former Andreevsky Bridge which had been built in 1905. Photo by Ilya Timshin, www.ilyatimshin.com

About IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world.

ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

SOUTH AFRICA

4 Moscow In Your Pocket

GEORGIA

The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com

This summer you don’t have to worry about dehydration on very hot days because Moscow authorities are planning to distribute free unlimited drinking water to all passengers in the metro if temperatures climb above +28C. In addition, all underground transportation will undergo diagnostics and extra maintenance ahead of the hot months, with special focus on the air conditioning and ventilation systems so that your travels will be as pleasant as possible this summer.

changes in public transport On May 25th Aeroexpress trains to and from Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo airports changed to the new summer schedule. During morning and evening rush hours the interval between trains is reduced to 20 minutes instead of 30 to better serve the increased flow of passengers. The number of suburban trains has also increased and additional ticket counters and machines have been installed to expedite ticket purchasing during rush hours. From 11:00 until 16:00 passengers can also take their bicycles on the trains for free. Additional transportation has also been added to the following popular summer spots: Rublevksy Plyazh, Serebryany Bor and Borisovskie Prudy.

Russia Day celebrations One of the most important government holidays in Russia is June 12th, also known as Russia Day. This date is significant because on June 12th, 1990 Soviet leaders signed a declaration of Russia’s state sovereignty, which symbolized the beginning of democratic reforms in Russia. It became a public holiday in 1994. Nowadays it’s an occasion for many Russians to demonstrate national pride by attending various concerts, events and, of course, firework demonstrations organized by authorities in cities across the country. Moscow will see a variety of events all throughout the city, with the biggest ones happening on the Red Square, in Victory Park, in Gorky Park and in Hermitage Gardens.

Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17.

Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No33. 01.06.2014 Для детей старше 16 лет.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

shop in the museum Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop! Shop is located inside the building of the State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History, which is also worth a visit.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Reserve a Table Have you ever wished you could reserve a table at popular Moscow restaurants more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and company Leclick have made the perfect solution for you. You can now make restaurant reservations direct from our website. Click on the blue “Reserve a table” button when you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It only takes a few seconds to click a couple of buttons and send the reservation through. The booking system will then reserve the table for you (if available) and send you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text message in English! This is a fast, easy and convenient way to book a restaurant. You don’t need to worry about tripping over some difficult Russian word, or about a possible misunderstanding, you don’t even need to be able to speak or understand Russian! This is a great way for any tourist or expatriate to make a reservation. Furthermore, you can book from anywhere in the world and receive the SMS confirmation, so when travelling you can still book your favourite restaurant. This is great for tourists, businessmen and anyone who values their time and good food! June - July 2014

Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience whether you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www. belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www. kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station. QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each carrige, announcing which station the train is approaching. However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets June - July 2014

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden storms and temperature drops at night mean that it’s best to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a foldingpaper fan. And of course don’t forget your sunglasses.

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Post Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com

pocket dictionary: KVASS Mmm Kvass – the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this fermented rye bread soft drink appear on the streets – yes, a drink made from bread! Bit like a hald flat, non-alcoholic ale, it’s an acquired taste to say the least… Marketed as an authentic Slavic alternative to cola, this ancient, traditionally homemade drink is now sold in supermarkets across the land under brand names such as ‘klassik’ and ‘nikola’ (not cola, gettit?). Kvass can also sometimes find its way into your food too - Okroshka is a cold soup consisting of raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs and lots of kvass. Those crazy Russian chefs!

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль June - July 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs Arena Moscow QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru. Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres Academic Theater of Operetta QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 50 50, www.mosoperetta.ru. Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre QВ-1, Hermitage Gardens, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www. novayaopera.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 48 59, www.maly.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru. 10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Theatre Mayakovskogo QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Theatre-Atelier Pyotr Fomenko QKutuzovksky pr. 30/32, MKutuzovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 17 40, www.fomenko.theatre.ru. Vakhtangov Theatre QB-3, Ul. Arbat 26, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 16 79, www.vakhtangov.ru.

June AND JULY events 06.06 Friday 20:00 Tangerine Dream It’s been a long time in coming, but electronic pioneers Tangerine Dream are finally coming to Moscow as part of their farewell tour. The band started out in Germany in 1967, citing influences as diverse as Hendrix and Dali. Entranced by the potential of electronic music making something still in its infancy - their complex soundscapes paved the way for a vast range of followers, from the glacial austerity of near contemporaries Kraftwerk to the violent rock of Rammstein. This farewell tour also marks the 40th anniversary of the seminal Phaedra album, widely regarded as one of the high points of its genre.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.tangerinedream-music.com. Tickets 1,500 - 12,000Rbl. 06.06 Friday 20:00 The Used The Used once earned as much fame for the stormy TV relationship between singer Bert McCracken and matriarch Sharon Osbourne while he was dating her daughter. But 13 years into a hard-rocking career the Utah-based band is touring a new, politically motivated album. ‘Imaginary Enemy’ speaks out angrily against the pretexts for empire building, something which strikes a chord with listeners on both sides of the Atlantic. Reassuringly, though, it also rocks like a good’un: while the philosophy might spark debate in the bar afterwards, the music itself should whip up a reliable frenzy in the mosh pit.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www. glavclub.com. Tickets 1,700 - 5,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

10.06 Tuesday 20:00 The Pretty Reckless When ‘Gossip Girl’ star Taylor Momsen announced she was planning a music career it was easy to fear the worst. But instead of playing up to her girl-next-door TV image, The Pretty Reckless saw her opt to play the goth-tinged rock chick, setting her phasers to ‘shock’ and riding media outrage to chart success. But questions still linger: is this anything more than an empty shell, well-crafted but lacking any kind of musical substance? And if Momsen kept her bra on, would anyone notice the band at all? Moscow audiences get their chance to find out at Stadium Live on June 10.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.prettyrecklessofficial.tumblr. com. Tickets 2,200 - 10,000Rbl. 10.06 Tuesday 21:00 Lily Allen Lily Allen was never likely to be the typical pop princess. A childhood populated by a cast of celebrities of Britain’s counter-culture, from Joe Strummer to Harry Enfield, ensured that. Her music, while veering from ska-punk to synth-pop, has never lost its aggressive, sweary, fingerjabbing anger, making her a tabloid darling as much as a radio fixture. After a long break from the recording studio, this year’s new album, ‘Sheezus’ (deliberately skewering the pretensions of Kanye West) is one of the most hotly-anticipated releases of the year, and early taster ‘Hard out here’ suggests she’s still in fine, iconoclastic form.QArena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.lilyallenmusic.com. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl. 11.06 Wednesday 20:30 Foals A generation after the great Radiohead formed at Abingdon Boys School, the Oxford establishment has unleashed another indie-rock monster on the world. Foals, perhaps the world’s hardest-working act, has certainly put the airmiles in, clocking 135,000 miles to play 155 gigs last year. Practise pays off, and Q magazine named them the best live band of the year while ‘Holy Fire’ was nominated for the prestigious Mercury Prize. Musically diverse, and committed to memorable live shows, a Foals concert is a big event for fans - and usually converts plenty of new ones at the same time.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www. holyfire.foals.co.uk. Tickets 2,190 - 12,000Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Bird of Happiness

Russia’s cultural traditions of the past and present are embodied in the sounds of nature and see its scenery. Our ancestors listened to the singing of the birds, the rustle of the leaves, the gusts of wind and the crunch of fresh snow. They also marveled at the colorful sunsets, the whiteness of the first snow, the rich green tones of grass in the spring and the rays of the summer sun. All of these sights and sounds they captured in music and lyrics. This dialogue with nature and our surroundings is where the “Russian national song” found its beginning. Nadezhda Babkina, a true People’s Artist of Russia, would like to invite you on a musical adventure into the vibrant world of human emotions with her show “The Bird of Happiness”, for it is this bird, according to Russian folklore, that we are constantly chasing throughout our lives, which are so full of losses and gains, moments that captivate us or brief seconds of bitter separation. Thanks to the most modern show technologies, you will get to travel throughout Russia’s vast landscapes – from the harsh winters, to the golden autumns, from the summer fields to the intoxicating aromas of the blooming springs. Ice sculptures, hundreds of authentic costumes, unique choreography and the singing of the “Russkaya Pesnya” group will this journey into the world of genuine human emotions truly unforgettable. And of course, staying true to real Russian traditions, guests are greeted with bread and salt, Russian national food will be abundant, national dress will be presented, national arts and crafts will be on display – all this will really get guests to dive into Russia’s rich culture and Russians’ mysterious soul. The show will take place daily (apart from Mondays) from July 12th - August 31st, 19.30, in the Theater of Musical Folklore “Russian Song”. Q Musical Folklore Theater “Russkaya Pesnya”, Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya ul. 5/9, bldg. 2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel (+7) 926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at the theater, online or by phone. June - July 2014

Culture & Events Stanislavsky music Theatre Dating back to 1918-1919 the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the biggest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera and ballet performances are well known to the Moscow audience and attract more and more international visitors. The theatre takes part in many international projects and gets yearly nominated for the national theatre premium Golden Mask. In 2013 it was nominated in London for the Oscar amongst the opera’s; the first international opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a lovely museum showing the history of the theatre, costumes used for performances and lovely stage models. June 10 will see the premier of Mozart’s Don Juan. This wonderful opera pushed the boundaries of Mozart’s time creating a lively and amusing drama about the dangers and the lusts of Don Juan. The original debut of the opera in Prague was met with positive reviews but was less warmly welcomed in Vienna. Regardless of what critics of the day thought, Don Juan has become one of Mozart’s best loved works. July will be met with a premiere of Manon – one of the best loved ballets of the 20th century and based on the comic opera by Jules Massenet. The ballet is about the tricky choices love faces when the protagonist is unable to decide between the temptations of luxury and the love of his life. The production is exquisitely choreographed and designed with authentic 17th century costumes and this loving performance will give you a snapshot into the life of 17th century France in all its glory and sundry. Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.

12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 15.06 Sunday 19:00 Tori Amos

22.06 Sunday 19:00 Laura Pausini

Tori Amos’ last visit to Moscow, three years ago, was an exquisite treat for lovers of classically-influenced art-rock. This time out, with a new, rockier album ‘Unrepentant Geraldines’ on the go, the ambience might be a bit different, but the commitment to high-quality, diverse music-making remains the same as ever. It’s more than 20 years since her ‘Little Earthquakes’ debut; since then Tori has evolved into far more than a highly-strung singer-songwriter at a piano and matured into one of the most absorbing artists in the contemporary music scene. Expect a big crowd to get along to Crocus City Hall to enjoy the latest installment.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.toriamos.com. Tickets 1,500 - 15,000Rbl.

Laura Pausini marks 20 years in showbiz with her first ever performance here in Russia. As part of her Greatest Hits world tour the Italian singer is bringing her best loved songs to Moscow - including the classic ‘La Solitinude’ that launched her career and was re-released as a special anniversary edition last year. Her fanbase stretches across more than 50 countries, and she performs in four languages (although Russian is not yet one of those). Her discography includes duets with artists as diverse as Kylie Minogue, Andrea Bocelli and Helene Segara, as well as appearing at the Pavarotti and Friends concert and dueting with the maestro on two separate occasions.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. laurapausini.com. Tickets 1,200 - 10,000Rbl.

18.06 Wednesday 20:00 Tom Odell When you’re signed up on a personal recommendation from Lily Allen, but also get a 0-out-of-10 review from the influential NME, it’s fair to say you polarize opinions. Tom Odell, depending on who you ask, is a Bowie for a new age, or a tedious purveyor of bland Brit-mediocrity. Away from opinions, though, Odell won the Critics Choice prize at the 2013 Brit Awards and his debut album, ‘Long Way Down’ has won plenty of fans with its energy and emotional honesty. And, if you don’t like the show, you can always go to Lily Allen’s gig and complain to her about it.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.tomodell.com/uk. Tickets 1,500 - 5,000Rbl.

27.06 Friday 20:00 Kalinov Most Dmitry Revyakin, founder and frontman of Siberian folkrockers Kalinov Most, celebrates his 50th birthday this year. As part of the festivities his band - one of the most enduring and influential in Russian rock - is back on the road. The years have brought changes, not least the switch from Pagan to Christian influence following Revyakin’s conversion in 2000, but the man himself explains that his underlying theme is ‘the Russia I’d hope to live in’. Musically the folk influences have waned somewhat in favor of MOR rock, but the band retains a large and loyal Russian fanbase.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.kalinovmost.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.

19.06 Thursday 20:00 Psychea

09.07 Wednesday 20:00 Foster The People Foster the People earned its fame thanks to ‘Pumped Up Kicks’ an unlikely indie-pop hit about a high school shooting. Overnight success saw many of the tracks from debut album ‘Torches’ find their way into TV soundtracks. Now the band is back on the road, promoting its second album, ‘Supermodel’. Partially recorded in Morocco, this release has a more diverse vibe, but at its heart it remains a slice of angry, pensive indie rock with an underlying message about greed. QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www. fosterthepeople.com. Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.

Russia’s rock scene can often appear moribund, with few acts willing to push boundaries and challenge the cozy mediocrity demanded of national broadcasters. Happily, the country’s biggest and longest-serving alternative act, Psychea, is still around to ruffle a few feathers. The music is hard and uncompromising, the stage show - now they’ve graduated to large arenas - is on a grand scale and the band’s consistent thirst for experimentation during its 18-year history means there’s always something new for fans to hear. The welcome establishment of the ‘Glavclub’ brand in Moscow gives an ideal venue for Psychea’s latest show.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.psyshit.ru. Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kostroma

Bored of Russian history museums with lots of dry and non-compelling texts? Looking for history that would be fun and accessible to the whole family? If yes, make sure to check out the National Show of Russia “Kostroma”! For 10 years now this annual summer spectacle has been transcending space and time to show viewers from all parts of Russia and beyond the vastness of this incredible multi-cultural country. Politicians, artists, cultural figures, royalty, children and their parents, young and old have all been witness to historical events of the Russian nation that unfold on the stage of the Big Concert Hall “Kosmos”. Here, scenes from our astounding history and stories of our greatest heroes and epochs come alive through dance. Through brilliant stage performances we are shown the beginning of Christianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary Russia, the flight of the first man into space and the famous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are covered, ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian steppes, the Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery changes, so do the people along with their traditions and culture. Over 50 artists perform various numbers, among them “Tatar Spring”, “Legends of the North”, “The Rhythm of the Caucuses”, “The River Volga Flows”, “Yokhor” and “Tsam” – all with astounding accuracy and adherence to the traditions and the way of life of the numerous cultures embodied in the Russian Federation. Very special attention is also given to the decorations to ensure that all elements are as close to reality as possible. More than 300 costumes were designed by Elena Piatrovskaya and are extremely fascinating with how true they remain to the national style. All the amulets, Mongolian masks, drums and Tatar tambourines were hand-made by the masters of the cultures and traditions from regions near and far, such as Chukotka, the Tuva Republic, Dagestan and Tatarstan. Vladimir Kornev, a famous composer, wrote the music for many of the numbers and the musical arrangement for the 80 musicians of the orchestra was created by Vladimir Ryabtsev, a People’s Artist of the Russian Federation. Q BKZ “Kosmos”, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, www.nationalrussianshow.ru. The show takes place every day from the 15th of June until the 15th of September (except Thursdays).

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Culture & Events MUSIC IN TSARITSYNO 28.06 Saturday - 13.07 Sunday Music in Tsaritsyno Tsaritsyno hosts a series of concerts throughout the summer months, combining great music with a spectacular setting. On June 28-29 the annual festival of classical ensembles takes over the palace, with performances from the likes of violinist Dmitry Kogan, tenor Maxim Paster and soprano Maria Maksakova. But the biggest highlight is probably the evening program on June 28, when an outdoor performance of Carmina Burana (8pm) is followed by a rock concert with Olga Kormukhina (10 pm). The first two weekends in July offer a mixture of chamber music, jazz and - to wrap up the festival on July 13 - an evening with the Solo Tango Orquesta (times tbc).QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Tickets for concerts in the museum 150 - 1,000Rbl. Entrance to open air concerts is free.

About igor cholaria

Exhibitions THROUGH 27.07 Sunday Viva Italia!

From the splendor of Ancient Rome to the glories of the Renaissance, Italy has defined the architectural language for centuries. Reflecting this, the Tretyakov is putting on a show of Italian design through the eyes of artists from different eras and countries. Drawing on works from its own collection as well as visiting canvases from Berlin’s Museum of Architectural Drawing and the Tchoban Fund, the exhibition presents Italy’s cityscapes in various ways: strict studies, artistic observations and a starting point for creative imaginations.QC-4, Tretyakov Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. THROUGH 03.08 Sunday The stage on show

The contemporary Russian artist Igor Cholaria was influenced by French impressionists and early 20th century avant-garde especially by such painters as Picasso, Braque and Modigliani. However, it is clear that he was also influenced by Russian icon paintings and the renaissance masters. His style is an organic synthesis of various styles from different periods and he consequently refers to his own works as a retrospective. In his work he adds new ideas to old and is prepared to take a step backwards to take two steps forward. Over the past 20 years the artist has worked extensively with English, Belgian and Dutch galleries and his works have been purchased by Madonna, John Galliano, Gerard Depardieu among others. The artist is in the prime of life and able to surprise not only the public, but even himself. QMoscow, Alla Bulyanskaya Gallery, Ul. Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 926 207 22 42, www.allabulgallery.com QSt. Petersburg, Pushkinskaya ul. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 921 941 82 82, www.tcholaria.com. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket

Fyodor Fyodorovsky wasn’t a great singer or dancing, but he did as much as anyone to create the image of the Bolshoi Theatre as a globally renowned cultural powerhouse. He spent more than 30 years as a stage designer, arriving in 1921 and quickly becoming the chief set designer and costume artist. From the famous red-and-gold curtains which hung from 1935 until the restoration of the main stage in 2005 to the stars that shine from the towers of the Kremlin, his designs shaped a nation’s image of itself. The highlights of his stage work came in the 1930s-50s when he created definitive imagery for a wealth of Russian operas - the historical epics like Boris Godunov, Khovanshchina, Prince Igor, The Tsar’s Bride and many more. This summer show at the New Tretyakov offers an insight into how he styled Russia’s past - and helped to define its present for international audiences.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events russian motives

Traditional craft from past to present Painted lacquer snuffboxes became hugely fashionable in the late 18th century, and quickly evolved into a celebration of traditional Russian cultural themes. The dark backgrounds gave rise to a host of brightly-colored fairytale scenes, some inspired by folk tales, others by literary classics. It’s a snapshot of the Russian landscape, its dense forests, mighty rivers and mythical lost cities, and it’s a tradition which survived the Soviet era without being pressed into propaganda service. Russian masters of lacquer painting have shaped the development of this medium all over the world. To celebrate this rich tradition, the All-Russian Decorative Art Museum is staging a special exhibition. More than 300 works by masters from Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstyora and Kholui form the basis of the display, which includes several items never seen before by the general public. The exhibition also reflects the museum’s growing role as a guardian of Russia’s unique arts and crafts. An important part of the show focuses on contemporary lacquerwork, showing how this tradition continues to thrive and develop in the 21st century. 04.06 Wednesday - 10.08 Sunday Everything stops for tea No visit to Russia would be complete without encountering the famous samovar. The word samovar means ‘self boiling’; the object supplies a constant supply of piping hot water at the table, fuelling the thirst for a cup of tea. Russia’s tea culture, which maintains a powerful grip on the nation’s habits today, developed relatively late; the oriental infusion started gaining popularity in the 17th century as the Russian Empire expanded into Central Asia. The Museum of Decorative Arts is staging a large-scale exhibition exploring Russia’s tea culture - including many fine examples of samovars - throughout its history. The display also includes packaging, advertising materials, shop fronts from tea stores and information about the Great Tea Road that brought the prized leaves to eager fans in Moscow and St. Petersburg. QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. 16 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events THROUGH 04.08 Monday Prose in the park Russia’s proud literary tradition is one of the country’s calling cards, and cities large and small are eager to attract visitors to any house, however humble, if one of the great wordsmiths happened to spend time there. But as the State Literary Museum marks its 80th anniversary, a new exhibition at Tsaritsyno offers a glimpse of what the future might hold for some of the world’s most valuable written relics. As well as a host of unique manuscripts and rare editions of Russian classics - from Fedorov to Solzhenitsyn multimedia technology introduces a new wealth of audio recordings. The exhibition, called ‘Memory of the Future’ also features events with contemporary writers and creators, from satirist Dmitry Bykov to mystical cartoonist Yuri Norshtein, of ‘Hedgehog in the Fog’ fame.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

THROUGH 11.01 Sunday Sculpting a new order Vera Mukhina is most famous for her work on the monumental ‘Worker and Collective Farm Girl’ sculpture, which became the logo for Mosfilm and featured in the opening ceremony at the Sochi Olympics. But in a display to mark the 125th anniversary of her birth, the Tretyakov Gallery is focusing on less well-known works from the early years of the USSR. It was a time when art was being put to the service of the ideals of the new socialist order, and when the heroes of sculpture and painting should be idealized images of everyday people rather than images of ‘great men’. Looking at the sketches and projects Mukhina planned at this time gives an insight into how she developed her monumentalist style and helped bring these ideals to reality in bronze and stone.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Summer festivals Hoorah, festival season is upon us! Everyone’s happy that summer is finally here in Moscow! But now this is especially true for music lovers of all musical persuasions. Why? Well, in recent years the European festival culture has finally caught up in Moscow. A testament to that is last year’s summer, which saw titans such as Arctic Monkeys, The Killers, Limp Bizkit, Hot Chip and George Clinton take to various stages across the city. So, sunglasses? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Comfortable footwear? Check. Friends? Check. Good vibes? Check. Alright, lets see what this summer has got in store!

Words of wisdom

Now we’d like to share with you some words of wisdom from veteran festival goers to make sure you make the right choices and have a FUNtastic time. 1. Study the line-up and program carefully. You’ll need to decide what you really want from your festival experience, i.e. only music or music as well as other cultural/entertainment programs. 2. Think about which bands you really want to see and then – if you don’t mind spoiler alerts – check out their setlists from recent gigs to make sure your favorite tunes get played; it’s also worth reading reviews from fellow fans about the band’s recent gigs. Go on the festival’s website and check out who’s playing on which days and at what times. If there are some bands you want to see there’s always a chance that there may be clashes in the program so you might have to make some difficult decisions. 3. Make sure to buy tickets in advance because prices tend to get steeper and steeper as your festival(s) of choice draws nearer. 4. On the day, make sure to arrive at least an hour/ hour and a half ahead of your first band’s performance to avoid being late due to lines and lengthy security checks. 5. And remember, a festival is not a pillow fight so don’t expect softness and feathers everywhere: people push, shove and dance drunken dances so be ready for a bit of roughness, especially at rock gigs and closer to the stages. 6. Most importantly: HAVE FUN! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June 7 Ahmad Tea Music Festival Moscow’s festival season will kick off on June 7th with the Ahmad Tea Music Festival in Muzeon Park. A relative new comer, this cozy little festival has grown from its first edition in 2011 into a must for those who are interested in the slightly more underElbow ground splendors of Britain’s (because it’s an English tea brand, after all!) indie rock and electronica scene and the country’s festival culture in general. ATMF enjoys the reputation of fishing out young new British talent just before they skyrocket to fame and therefore have not yet outgrown smaller venues. The message of the festival is clear: “we exist in order to create a quality musical environment, bring relevant artists to an audience that truly appreciates contemporary British music and to recreate the British festival environment in Russia’s cultural space”. So this year, please welcome the headliner Elbow, a legendary British band - on par with Coldplay and Radiohead - with several Mercury and Brit Awards in their pocket. Bombay Bicycle Club (with their new album “So Long See You Tomorrow), Peace (an indierock quarter from Worcester) and Palma Violets (whose single “Best of Friends” was NME’s song of the year) will also rock the stage at this year’s ATMF. Q B-5, Muzeon Park, Ul. Krymsky Val 2, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.ahmadteafest.ru. June 13, 14, 15 Wild Mint Festival Wild Mint is the largest world music festival in Russia. Ever since 2008 it is held every summer, in the cultural ethnographic complex Ethnomir (in Kaluga Region), and attracts the most salient artists from all corners of the world: Balkan rollicking Alex Clare tunes and Celtic rhythms, lingering Russian melodies and laconic afrobeat, noble ethno-jazz and sunny ragga, Georgian polyphony and Portuguese tunes, the songs of independent Spanish pop music and fancy Finno-Ugric lamentation songs. This year you can expect to see Alex Clare, Brainstorm, Surganov and Orchestra, Therr Maitz, N.O.H.A, Nina Carlson, Project Rakija and many other Russian and foreign artists. The vibrant musical program and a rich cultural entertainment come together to provide visitors with a truly unforgettable trip around our breathtaking planet – all within a short train ride from Moscow! Besides music from around the world, the World-on-a-Plate food festival is held there, enabling guests to get acquainted with June - July 2014

Culture & Events various national cuisines: Indian and Serbian, Finnish and Spanish, Ukrainian and Uzbek. The unique Green Age territory - a place of joy and harmony of body and soul – was created for those who aim to discover something new on their way to knowledge, self-development and creativity. Workshops, trainings, meetings with craftsmen and healers, open lessons and master classes in yoga, qi gong, meditation, massage, dances, tantra, mehendi and many other events are held there. Q Etnomir, Borovsky district, Kaluzhkaya oblast, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www. mintmusic.ru. June 14-15 Usadba Jazz The largest outdoor jazz funk, world music, acidjazz, lounge, jazz-rock and blues festival in Russia today is Usadba Jazz, which welcomes more than 40,000 visitors eager to soak in the performances of the best local and international artists. Although musical performances are a key ingredient, many Marcia Castro people are attracted to this festival thanks to its rich cultural and leisure program with activities ranging from volleyball to board games and, of course, the huge beautiful park with its breath-taking architecture and surrounding nature, clean air and the relaxing summer vibe. Usadba Jazz has introduced a myriad of world-class artists to the Russian audience and has given it the chance to enjoy a musical niche marked by masterful compositions and highly skillful performances. Over the years, the festival has proudly hosted names such as Marcus Miller, Avishai Cohen Trio, Branford Marsalis Quartet, Charlie Hunter Trio, The Brand New Heavies, Yusef Lateef & Belmondo Quintet – and this is just a tiny fraction of the virtuosos hailing from all parts of the world! This year there will be five stages. The biggest one of them is Parter, where the biggest names of the world’s jazz and funk scene perform. Just so all our jazz-loving fans know that this is no joke, this year the likes of Bugge ‘n’ Friends, Marcia Castro and Balkan Beat Box will get their swing, funk and groove on. A separate stage has been designated to the hottest names of the New Orleans scene, such as Donald Harrison (including the Mardi Gras Indian suits), Les Getrex ‘n’ Creole Cookin’ and Tara Alexander. Caprise stage is the territory of good ol’ rock n’ roll and rockabilly and will have the pleasure of welcoming Ian Siegal from the UK and The Betty Boop Lovers from Mother Russia. And then there’s the Jazz Club stage, which promises to be a real hit because this is where young musicians will get to organize jam sessions with world famous artists. As we move down to the river, DJ’s will be spinning the finest in contemporary electronica at the final stage. 18 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events This festival has gained such popularity that in 2011 the organizers began a Saint Petersburg edition and this year they’ll be taking it on the road. So don’t sweat it if you’re not in Moscow to catch Usad’ba Jazz – there are show dates for Voronezh (June 28th), Ekaterinburg (July 5th) and Saint Petersburg (July 19th). Or just use it as a great excuse to do some traveling around Russia!Q State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.usadbajazz.ru. JUNE 27 - 29 Park Live Festival

Die Antwoord

Come on down to the All-Russia Exhibition Center from June 27th-29th and rock out at Park Live Festival, “a big festival for a big country”. This festival was held for the first time last year yet it is now an event that simply cannot be missed, an event that demonstrates that it is possible to hold a grandiose three-day festival within the boundaries of a big city. Lets just have a look at the monsters of rock and electronica it brought to Russia last year: Limp Bizkit, Poets of the Fall, NOFX, Justice, Ladytron, Pendulum, DJ Fresh, iamamiwhoami and Trentemøller. This year, get ready another wave of awesomeness. The first day will be headlined by no other than the king of darkness and brutality himself, Marilyn Manson along with Skillet, a mega successful Christian rock band from the States (don’t worry, we are aware of the slight irony of putting these two on the same day and the same stage!). Expect no ease up of the heaviness on the second day, when Britain’s legendary rave/hardcore/industrial/breakbeat group The Prodigy as well as Enter Shikari and Hollywood Undead make an appearance on the Cosmos Stage, while the Chemical Stage will be taken over by South Africa’s rap-rave band Die Antwoord and Norway’s EDM talent Savant. Day 3 will see an epic finish to an epic line-up. Along with Deftones, a highly distinguished alt metal band and California’s finest, who will be headlining the Cosmos Stage, Wolfmother and Mastodon will make sure you mosh your hearts out, as a more melodic and sensual Lykke Li will be in charge of the Chemical Stage with the help of Moderat giving the audience the best of Berlin’s electronica. moscow.inyourpocket.com

The coolest thing (aside from the line-up, of course) is the setting. Who wouldn’t want to jump, dance, rave, sing and mosh in such a historic place like the All-Russia Exhibition Center, an architectural masterpiece with fountains, amusement park rides and the huge space rocket “Vostok” in the center of it all? So don’t miss the chance to let yourself go and have a truly fantastic time to some truly fantastic bands in the peak heat of Moscow’s summer. Q All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs), Prospekt Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 660 60 42, www.parklive.pro. July 5 Subbotnik Another newcomer, Subbotnik’s first edition rocked Moscow’s Gorky Park for the first time only last year, yet already many await it as eagerly as the Brits await Glastonbury. An amazing line-up and truly European vibes have made everyone believe that the festival industry in Russia is finally catching up with the countries that have been in this business since the 1970s. In 2013, Subbotnik’s organizers got none other than Arctic Monkeys to come and headline (for the band it was their first ever gig in Russia), along with other not so trivial names in the world of rock and electronica, such as Hurts, Foals, Jessie Ware, Savages and Motorama. This year doesn’t look too disappointing either! On July 5th Gorky Park will be welcoming British alt rock heavyweights and a favorite among Russia’s crowd Placebo, the authors of hits such as “Every You, Every Me”, “Song to Say Goodbye”, “Pure Morning”, “Special K”, “Meds” and “The Bitter End” that have defined a generation, along with their compatriots Kasabian that boast a number of awards (Brit Awards, NME Awards, Q Awards, Mojo Awards and others) and whose albums have gone multi platinum. It seems as though Subbotnik has a British theme this year because the other announced acts are Metronomy, Miles Kane (ex-The Rascals) and the talented young singer/ songwriter Jamie Woon. Q B-5, Gorky Park, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.subbotnikfestival.com.

Kasabian

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

July 19 Picnic Afisha

Jamiroquai

Held every year since 2004, Picnic Afisha has turned into “a little city within a big city”. Last year, over 50,000 people attended this mecca for a second to none program of music and arts, leisure and lifestyle activities, including a designers market and a gastronomic area, special lectures and workshops, cinema and crafts and a full spectrum of amusements and sports. Attendees gather in the scenic area of Kolomenskoe (a former royal estate, which now is a historical, architectural and nature reserve museum) to enjoy the engaging and versatile surroundings for different audiences, either for individuals or families. Although music plays an enormous role at this festival, its not the primary aim of the event. The festival is organized by the Afisha Magazine, a major entertainment and listings biweekly. Over the years, Afisha Picnic has seen performances from Blur, Hole and Courtney Love, Kaiser Chiefs, Marina and the Diamonds, Janelle Monae, Editors, Black Lips, Glass Candy, The Teenagers, These New Puritans, Mumiy Troll, Zemfira, Leningrad, Megapolis to name just a few among more than 500 music acts that have performed at the festival since its debut in 2004. So what can we expect this year music-wise? Well, boys and girls, get ready to put on your fanciest dancing shoes because the kings of British funk and acid jazz Jamiroquai, whose performances are marked by frontman Jay Kay’s signature dancing and flying across the stage, are going to make you party like it’s 1999! And that’s only the cherry on top of the icing. A soul-warming and mind-blowing mix of psychedlic rock/synthpop/indietronica will be delivered to you as only the American band MGMT knows how to. Alternative rock legends Suede, who helped foster Britpop as a musical genre with their earlier works, will be pleasing the crowd with full-on, non-stop barrage of hits, bursting with energy. And last but certainly not least, our Slavic brothers from Belorussia Lyapis Trubetskoy will deliver their own special brand of ska-punk and reggae with tongue-in-cheek lyrical undertones that never fail to get the crowd riled up and skanking (a form of dancing practiced in the ska, ska punk, hardcore punk, reggae music scenes). So this year Moscow’s most happening music and lifestyle festival is going to about the same as last year’s but only better! Q Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, Pr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.picnic.afisha.ru June - July 2014

Culture & Events

Sport Elysee, where his partners include nine-time World Rally Champion Sebastien Loeb. There’s also a round of the leading European competition for young drivers, the Renault World Series, which takes place on June 28-29.

Spartak’s new home

Pavel Shangin From the cover of a magazine A fantasy of illuminated trees and rockets racing to the skies; a crazy Technicolor aquarium; a collection of madeup faces interspersed with cosmetics; a spring forest blooming on another planet: welcome to the imaginative world of Russian artist Pavel Shangin. This Volgograd-born creator of sumptuous collages has earned increasing fame on the local art scene for his willingness to plunder the glossy illustrations of magazines. Having harvested the images he likes, he then reinvents them into elaborate, colorful prints with a lifespan far beyond their initial week on the shelves. This is more than just a parade of glamor and fashion; among Shangin’s favorite sources of inspiration is the National Geographicstyle journal Vokrug Sveta (Around the World), with its eye-catching array of flora, fauna and folk culture from all corners of the globe. The impact of this is immediately evident in his ‘Biosphere’ series, which explores and subverts our natural world. Don’t be fooled by the word ‘collage’: this is no primary school game with pots of glue and last season’s football stickers. First there are months of scouring magazines for the most suitable images. Then, under Shangin’s watch-

20 Moscow In Your Pocket

ful eye, pictures from the ephemera of the mass media are collected, scanned and reworked into enduring artworks. Each piece in the ‘Biosphere’ cycle, for example, took about three months to complete. The end result is far removed from traditional understandings of collage; it’s a fully integrated work in its own right.

Shangin, who was born in 1983, has been developing his style since the mid-2000s. Earlier this year he completed his more recent series, Nightlife, which explores the mysterious dreamworld of life after dark. His work perhaps falls most neatly under the post-realism banner thanks to the way it takes a heavily stylized, often hyper-realist view of the world and then refashions this artificial magazine reality into an almost surrealist juxtaposition of diverse elements and symbols. His works explore different environments – especially the nocturnal world, where Shangin believes people are free to let their minds race towards the lives they wish to lead – or the timeless clash of materialist and emotional values, as seen in the series ‘Need to be Loved’. But it’s not all high-brow concepts and forehead-furrowing philosophy. These ultra-modern works of art represent perfect, distinctive accompaniments to the apartments and offices of contemporary Moscow. The attraction, largely, stems from the bright color and intricate detail – something the artist says can help banish depression by distracting the mind from negative thoughts. For more details, and contact information, see www. pavel-shangin.ru moscow.inyourpocket.com

Revving up at the Raceway Petrolheads are gearing up for the summer action at the Moscow Raceway. This year sees three big race meetings – including a chance to see Russia’s first F1 driver Vitaly Petrov in DTC action – as well as the annual City Racing event around the Kremlin Walls. The city center event has become a fixture of the summer calendar in Moscow and this year’s event on June 21 sticks to a tried and trusted formula. Starting and finishing next to St. Basil’s Cathedral, drivers show off their skills on a course which runs along the riverside before turning up Ulitsa Mokhovka and pulling a sharp U-turn at the end of Tverskaya and returning to the start line (the cobbles on Red Square itself make it impossible for these vehicles to attempt a full circuit). Formula One cars and KamAZ racing trucks take pride of place in a downtown festival of speed and power. For those who prefer competitive events, though, the Moscow Raceway is the place to go. It’s a little way out of town, near Volokolamsk, but the recently-opened track is steadily establishing itself on the circuit for various racing contests. This year’s highlight is probably the return of the DTM (Deutsche Tourenwagen Masters, or German Touring Car Championship) for a second visit to Russia. Vitaly Petrov, the Vyborg Rocket, is the local contender and he’s hoping for plenty of support on his home track. However, the Russian racer only confirmed his first season in this competition in mid-April, and admitted he was in for a baptism of fire. “DTM cars are very particular,” he said, “and the level of competition is possibly even greater than in Formula One. In qualifying there are only a few seconds between the fastest and slowest drivers.” That intense competition, reinforced by the similarities between the vehicles from different manufacturers, makes this event far more of a test of driving – as opposed to design – skills. The DTM event is on July 11-13. Earlier the Raceway hosts a stage of the FIA World Touring Car Championship on June 7-8. Russia’s Lada Sport is represented here and includes 2012 Champion Robert Huff among its drivers as well as Russia’s Mikhail Kozlovsky. Last year’s champion Yvan Muller is in a new car, the Citroen Cwww.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

July 24 is set to be a big date for fans of Spartak Moscow, and anyone interested in how Russia’s 2018 World Cup might look. It’s due to be the grand opening of the new Spartak Stadium – called the Otkrytiye Arena following a sponsorship deal with a local bank – and will be the first time the 40,000-seater venue at Tushino is open to the public. However, the grand opening has already been thrown into confusion. Plans to kick off with an exhibition game between Spartak and Dinamo Kiev, long-standing rivals from the days of the Soviet Championship, were scuppered by the political tensions between Russia and Ukraine. At the time of writing a new opponent has not been announced, although Spartak fans are keen to welcome Red Star Belgrade in honor of the long-standing friendship between supporters of the two clubs. Late July is also likely to bring the start of the Russian Premier League season, which will feature Spartak and Moscow rivals Lokomotiv, Dynamo and CSKA. Games are usually shared between the Lokomotiv Stadium at Cherkizovskaya and Arena Khimki in a suburb on the way to Sheremetyevo Airport. By Andy Potts

Get involved! Summer is the perfect time to head to Moscow’s parks and get some exercise. Gorky Park has long been the favorite, and its beach volleyball courts tend to be booked up fast. But it’s also a great spot to cycle or rollerblade, and the popular free table tennis is back again this summer. For the more energetic the Panda Park outdoor assault courses are also back in business. These hair-raising ropewalks through the trees can be found in several different parks, including Tsaritsyno, Sokolniki and Gorky. Different routes cater for different ages and fitness levels, and it’s just the thing for adventurous kids.

June - July 2014

Features History of Old Arbat Arbat has a diverse and rich residential history, ranging from merchants and craftsmen, to aristocrats, to housing the headquarters of the Tsar’s bodyguards, to becoming the favourite haunt of Moscow’s intelligentsia (artists, authors and academics etc), to Soviet officials. The Arbat we can see today has retained and protected it’s legacy as well as keeping up with the times; statues have been erected in memory of its famous inhabitants; several museums are dotted along the street – including the very flat that Pushkin used to live in; as well as concert halls and theatres, street artists, souvenir shops and shops, restaurants, cafés and bars.

«Дом Гоголя» — государственное учреждение культуры многофункционального типа, типа объединяющее Gogol House мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку, исследовательский центр и выставочный зал. зал Первый и единственный вmuseum России мемориальный музей Н.В. Memorial and science Гоголя расположен в историческом зданииlibrary старинной городской усадьбы XVIII – XIX вв. вв в самом центре Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке провёл писатель последние годы своей жизни: здесь он работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души», души» духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю работы Н.А. Н А Андреева Андреева, созданный скульптором к 100 летию со д дня р рождения д писателя и имеющий щ свою непростую, очень интересную и драматическую историю Экспозиция, историю. Экспозиция в которой гармонично сочетаютсочетают ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных темой «Гоголь — загадка третьего тысячелетия. ЖизненЖизнен ный и творческий р путь у писателя». Коллекция ц музея у насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги, предметы еты дворянского быта, гравюры, ли литографии

History of New Arbat

Old and New Arbat Arbat Street, one of the oldest streets in the city and main arteries of Moscow, is not just a street. It is part of the Russian cultural psyche and has been the heart of many key Russian events throughout history. It is said amongst Russians that only those born on Arbat are true Muscovites.

When Nikita Krushchev was premier of the Soviet Union, his admiration of United States was reflected in several of his antics, including his desire to make New Arbat into a replica of both Broadway and Las Vegas, complete with casinos, bright lights, colours and sky scrapers. Built in 1968 and originally called Kalinin Prospekt, New Arbat (Novy Arbat) used to be heralded as an archetype of Soviet urban planning, but today is more famous for being a bright and loud strip of eateries, clubs and high end department stores such as the brand made famous for designing the Russian Olympic team’s outfits, Bosco. New Arbat regained its name in the 90s after the fall of communism and has since expanded and grown to become a modern thoroughfare in downtown Moscow. Aside from this, New Arbat is a typical example of a Moscow street, with the towering, Stalinist skyscrapers, juxtaposing the beautiful, classical Russian Orthodox Church of St Simeon Stolpnik. This church was turned into an animal and bird exhibition during the Soviet era, but was restored to its original purpose in the 90s.

The Boulevard Ring With a circumference of 9km, the Boulevard Ring circles the centre of Moscow. Taking approximately two hours to walk the full circle, it is the perfect opportunity for visitors to the city to take a leisurely stroll through the city and see various sights, whilst still enjoying some leafy greenery. Amongst the attractions include monuments to several of Russia’s cultural forefathers such as Gogol, the playwright Griboedev and Soviet bard Vladimir Vysotsky. The ‘swimming horses’ monument near Kropotkinskaya metro dedicated to Mikhail Sholokhov, author of ‘Quiet Flows the Don’ is fantastically beautiful. Planned out in the years after Moscow was almost entirely burnt to the ground during the Napoleonic wars , the ring replaced the original medieval walls that protected the White City. As with much of Russia’s love of all things European, it was inspired by the boulevards of Paris and Austria. Open air exhibitions are regularly held at different points along the length of the boulevard. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Moscow, Nikitsky bul. 7a, +7 (495) 690-58-81 www.domgogolya.ru

The Gogol HOUSE In the very center of Moscow near the Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies may seem like your average 18th century merchant mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. Here, he burnt the manuscripts of the poem. And in this very house, on February 21, 1852 the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250.000 volumes, a research centre, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 20 - 100Rbl. 4 June - July 2014

VA SIL YE VS KA UL YA .Y UL UL IU . SA FU CH IKA

BO L. G RU ZIN S

UL .G AS HE KA

ZO OL OG ICH ESK 20 AY AU L.

BO L. S AD 3 OV AY A 10 UL.

BO L.

BO L.P AT RIA RS HY PE R.

BR ON NA TVE 17 YA RSK UL OY 23 . BUL . 20 TVE RSK OY BUL L . 10 EON M TIE AL VOZ .G VS NES K N ENS YP E Z KY P DI ER 19 ER. KO . VS 2 KY PE BR 7 R. YU 22 SO VP 6 ER .

E KAM

4 12

MOH OVAY A UL.

VO LH ON KA UL .

BOLSHOY KAMENNY 2014 MOST 25 NA B.

NS KY PER . MA L. Z NA ME

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVS KY PER. 29 GOGOLEVSKY BUL. 15

NY PER. STAROKONYUSHEN

BOROVITSKAYA

June - July 4

TS KY PE R.

NI KI BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

EN 45 SK AY A

SKY P ER.

MAL. VLASYEVSKY PER.

TARASA SHEVCH ENKO

1-YA B OROD INSKA YA UL .

NAB.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

SMOLENSKAYA UL. 7 moscow.inyourpocket.com .

ROM ANO V PE

UL. 5

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

OK R

UL .

ARBATSKAYA

MANEZ HNAYA UL.

VOZDVIZH ENKA

BOL. KISLO VSKY PER.

BO L. N IKI 6 TSK AYA

SKA YA U L

GA ZE TN YP ER .

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH EVS KY P ER.

TRUBNIKOVS KY PE

NOVINSKY BUL.

. PER NY ASH KAL L. Y BU ITSK ER. NIK KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

KON YUSH KOV SKAY A UL

SADO VAYA -KUD 9 RINS KAYA UL. VSPOLN Y PER. 21

. UL

ER VP IKO SHN E L STO

. UL

UL.

26 OVKA TR MI L. D BO

A AY SK ER 12 TV

A NAY RON L. B MA

. ER YP SK V O TR PE

28 ER 5 M OLA 9 EVSK

28 25

MAL. GRUZINSKAYA UL.

1-Y KOLOBO

PRESNENSKY VAL UL.

PER.

SREDNY KARETNY PE

UL.

TNY KARE BOL.

VKA ITRO . DM MAL

R. PE NY UD PR KH YO TR R. PE KY INS IKH OZ L. K BO

. UL KA OV ON ID IR SP

ZHN DENE

24 Moscow In Your Pocket

There are many statues along Arbat and the surrounding 24 area, with the poet Pushkin being one of the most popular UL KRA stands subjects. Outside the Pushkin Memorial Apartment, .Z SN A AYA a happy statue of the married PushkinMand OR his wife Natalya. PRE EN SN OV gold fountain One statue almost impossibleBOLto miss, is the YA . PR A UL . ED monument to Princess Turandot outside the Vahtangov TheTEC HE NS atre. Moscow’s favourite bard, Bulat Okudzhava, who wrote KY PE many poems and odes dedicated to the 1street, is also im- KRASNOPRESNENSKAYAof both Russian and foreign classical and modern plays. For 3 R. mortalised in bronze on the corner of Krivoarbatsky Pereulok music lovers, about 150m down from the Greater Church of 9 22 side of Bolshaya Nikitskaya and Arbat. Gogol’s statue is located on 7Nikitsky Boulevard, the Ascension on the right hand GRA Conservatory. It is one with the names of his characters engraved on the pedestal. Street, is The Grand Hall of the Moscow NAT 20 NY P of the most famous48concert venues in the known not Eworld, R. MALinterior, 24 14 just for the beautifully decorated . NIK 16but also for it’s orH C D O R E L S IT K 4 AYA UL Things to DO . YA U gan: The Organ Cavaille-Coll, which wasSKAregarded as one of L. 15 5 As well as multiple restaurants and bars, there are several other the best in the world during the Paris exhibition 13 of 1900. 35 2 BOL. N attractions in the Arbat area, such as Moscow’s White House IKITSKA YA UL. 46 on New Arbat, the home of Moscow’s government and down PO PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA VA the little side street of Malaya Molchanovka, is the Lermontov SKA RS KA TER Y T AU NY House Museum, the house where the “Hero of Our Time” novPER 2 0 L. RASNOPRES . NEN of septicaemia, elist spent some of his 1last years Kbefore he died SKA YA in Moscow. and one of the few surviving wooden buildings NA 23 The “October” cinema, which was built to mark theB. 50th anKH L EB 8 UKRAINA NY niversary of the October Revolution can alsoHOTEL be found on PE R. New Arbat, and across the river, over the Novoarbatsky Bridge, PIER 14 stands the Hotel Ukraina, one of Stalin’s forbiddingly beautiful and impressive Seven Sisters, skyscrapers which were built in 7 BOL. MOLCHA 36 NOVKA UL. 4 32 1947 to commemorate Moscow’s 800th anniversary. (Another 28 22 31 one of the Seven Sisters, housing the ministry of Foreign Affairs NOVOARBATSKY NOVY ARBAT UL. is located at the end of Arbat, on Smolenskaya.) 23 21 2 MOST 17 11 . Following the Pushkin trail, walking about 200PRmetres up Ni1 KY S kitsky Boulevard visitors will come acrossZOthe V Greater Church L. AYA U ORSK TU of the Ascension, where Pushkin married his young wife, POZIT KU KOM Natalya Goncharova. A pleasant walk up the rest of Tverskoy 25 16 Boulevard, about 1.5km, will then bring you to Pushkinskaya, TOCHNY PER. PRO 8 where yet another statue of the Moscow’s beloved writer sits 25 2-YA . and looks over the square. Looking for some BOR holiday reading? UL T . ODI A R NS isAYthe PE 28 ARB . Dom Knigi, (House of Books) on New Arbat, K A ULbiggest SKY NIT and most famous book store in Moscow. It has three floors of MA R A K 38 books for sale in multiple languages, including several teach 39 yourself Russian books for those wanting to get further acSMOLENSKAYA 48 quainted with the Russian language. 22 To find slightly tamer, but no less interesting attractions, 11 30 ER. AZHEK P R V V E starting at building No 1 of Old Arbat, walk about 100m SIVTS BOL . DOis the Wall of Peace, a moving and on the right hand side ROG OM BORODINSKY and modern addition to the historic area, covered with hunILO V MOST . PER KOV TNI PLO

There are many cafés and restaurants on Arbat and the surrounding area. Below we listed a few of our partners that we’ve tried and reviewed. Deti Raika The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW 2 Tarantino Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PAW 1

cafe & bar

Theatres and Concert Halls

. V PER VOLKO

arbat dining

MAL. KARETNY PER.

. PER SKY OV 5 N E IM Y PER. USPENSK OP 0 R 1 A PER. 4 ST RNY YA TV GT ER E D SK AY . A UL PER L. KY . BU INS 12 NOY Y S 2 T A S T A S STR NA 3 8 L. AP 3 In order to perform the many masterpieces AY R. of all Russia’s faSK PE . N PUSHKINSKAYA I Y R mous writers and musicians, there are many concert halls and K PE SH PU CHEKHOVSKAYA theatres throughout Moscow, and The Arbat area is no exSKY P HIN KY ER. IK S Z R. O EV PE ception. Old Arbat itself is home to the well known AVakhtanL. K R. SH KY TVERSKAYA M PE LA ITS Y Z A gov Theatre, easily recognised by the gold statue of Princess P SK KO L. TIN Turandot outside. The Vakhtangov3Theatre, was originally the BO SY 6 . 3 studio of Chekhov’s close friend and mentor, Yevgeny BagraER YP SK four tionovich Vakhtangov, and was named in honour of him 19 EV Y years after his death. It is celebrated for it’s artists ONimpeccaID BARRIKADNAYA ble skills and first rate performances, which areSPIRa broad mix

Features

PER .

MAYAKOVSKAYA

L. AU IN AS KR

NSKY PER. NOVOPRESNE

Statues

STO LYA RNY

SA . . PER A UL INY NAY E A H F L Z M U U R I R O YA-T OVA SAD

UL .

dreds of hand-painted tiles, all expounding on the theme of 52 international friendship; Victor Tsoi’s Wall, a unique place ofPL. TRIUMFALNAYA pilgrimage for fans of the cult Soviet rock musician who died aged 28. Just after turning onto Nikitsky boulevard, from MAYAKOVSKAYA Arbatskaya Ploschad, on the right hand side of the street, is an antique shop, which holds fascinating trinkets, that wink at passers by from the window displays beckoning them in.

Today in 2014, the cobbles of Old Arbat may remain the same, but the craftsmen and authors haveUmoved on. In their place L. KL IMAS HKIN 16 and bars. Arbat boasts an impressive array of cafes, restaurants A Walking down the street, visitors are presented with a carnival of portrait artists, caricaturists, living statues, circus acts or musicians and street vendors. Although 12 visitors beware! Whilst the souvenirs may look beautiful, the prices are much higher 3 RAST ORso than those at other markets like Izmailovo, to GUEbe prepared V 4 R. ULITSA bargain and haggle your way to a price you deemPEreasonable. 1 1905 GODA L. AU OD 5G 190

The Mayakovsky theatre has a long history dating back to 1920. Its stage saw world-famous actors such as Sarah Bernardt, Eleonare Duse and Ernst von Possart, and because of their presence it was also known as the “International” theatre. Another person connected to the theatre was Vsevolod Meyerhold, who had a huge influence on modern theatre in Russia, but - as many modernizers those days - died in 1940 during Stalin’s purges. The theatre remains one of Moscow’s favorite ones and its actors are among the most famous in Moscow and Russia for that matter. The Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov. One of the best plays, Talents and Admirers, is a 19th century comedy by Russian playwright Alexander Ostrovsky, who was largely responsible for reforming Russian theatre in the late 19th century. The play is a humorous take on the nature of artistic talent, the theatre, success and failure. In this performance the stage is practically devoid of decoration and the audience becomes so involved in the lively performance of the actors that you barely notice the absence of it. The only item on the stage is a Russian samovar, symbolizing Russian daily life. QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. 3

Current day Arbat

SRED NY T ISHIN SKY P ER.

Mayakovsky Theatre

26 BOL. T ISH 43 INSKY PER. 37

Features

M SK AY A

R. LIKHOV PE D YA YR TN RE . KA UL

L. AU IN AS 3

BASM AN

OR LIK OV

PE R.

KALANC HEVSKA YA UL.

SA KH AR OV AP R.

UL AN SK YP ER . AK AD 7 41 EM IKA

7 ARKH ANG ELS KY PE R.

SV ER CH K 6 OV PE R.

KOLP ACH NY P ER.

PER.

YAUZSK Y BUL. POKROV SKY BU L.

PEV CHE SKY PE

KITAYGOR ODSKY PE R.

PR.

UST YIN SKY

SADOVOE KOLTSO

AV SK OG O

UL .

22 NA RO SA DN DO AYA VO UL. 50 EK OL TS O

ST AN ISL

SA DO VN ICH 22 ES KY PR OE ZD

M SK AY AU L.

MAL.POL YANKA UL .

NI ZH NA YA KR AS NO KH OL

BOL. ORDYNKA UL.

PRO EZD

YAK IMA NSK Y

39 43

PYATNIT SKAYA UL .

26 BOL. YAK IMA NKA 24 29 25 UL.

MAL. ORDYNKA UL.

AZANSK Y PER.

MAR O 3 NOVSKY PER. 6

2-Y KAZACHY PER.

BO LO TN YA AY KIM AN 5 AB 4 ANS . KA YA NA B.

GO LU TV IN 3 SKY PE R. 22

1-Y

BU TIK OV SKY PE R.

BERSENEVS KAYA NAB. 12

KUR SOV OY P E

OS TO ZH EN K 17 A U L.

. NAB

PU SH KIN SKA YA NA B.

SH LYU ZO VAY AN AB .

22 . UL YA KA 14 TS SIS 15 A UL. 18 RK KAY MA 4 OVS NTS 7 ORO V 6 9 IKI HCH ENS KAM 6 7 HIE BOLS UL.

UL. INA ITS

MARKSISTSKAYA

AYA VSK RKO OZE

17 IKOVSKY P 3-Y MONETCH

LYA PO L. 53 . BO 6 UL 5

4 FR UN ZEN SKA YA NA B.

MARKSISTSKAYA

TAGANSKAYA

. A NAB ARNAY GONCH

Y PE ARN NCH GO 2-Y

ER RIV

KOPTELSKY PER . (1Y)

MILYUTINSKY PER. M YA SN ITS KA YA 5 UL .

UL. MAL. LUB YANKA

6 18

35 UL. AYA 23 HARN NC GO 26

MANEZH NAYA UL .

MOH OVAYA UL.

PR EC HIS TE 45 NS KA YA

NA B.

NS KY PER .

MA L. Z NA ME

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

VO LH ON KA 8 UL .

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSK Y PER. 29 GOGOLEVSK Y BUL.

NNY PER. STAROKONYUSHE

MAL. VLASYEVSKY PER.

PER. BOL. VL ASYEVS KY

BO 2 L. SPAS SKA 4 YA UL .

KOSTYAN SKY PER.

SRETENKA UL.

BOL . LU BYA NKA UL.

UL .

TS KY PE R.

GA ZE TN YP ER .

NI KI

OVSKY PE

ROM ANO V PE

BOL. KISL

TRUB NAYA UL

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH EVS KY P ER.

VASNETSOVA

BO L. BR ON NA TVE 17 YA RSK UL OY 23 . BUL . 20 TVE RSK OY BUL LE . 10 ON M TIE AL VOZN .G VS ESEN KY NE SKY PE 19 ZD PER R. IKO . VS 2 KY PE BR 7 R. YU 22 SO V 6 PER .

PER.

TRUBNIKOV SKY

OK HO TN YR YA D

BO L. S AD 3 OV AY A 10 UL.

PE R.

28 ER 5 M OLA 9 EVSK

9 NSKA YA U L. VSPOLN Y PER. 21

SADO VAYA -KUD RI

BO L.P AT RIA RS HY

2 SKA 0 YA ZO OL OG ICH E

NOVINSKY BUL.

NI KO L 4 SKAY AU L.

UL . CH AY AN OV A

UL .G AS HE KA

UL .

KON YUSH KOV SKAYA UL.

UL.

PL 31 YUSHCHIK HA U L. 20

AYA ZSK YAU

OW SC MO

7 L. YA U RSKA TATA14 29 30 UL. INA 21 KHRUSH BA 39 20 L. YA U TSKA 31 OKUZNE6 3 NOV 17

R. 16 VSKY PE TCHIKO

NE 5-Y MO11 2-Y MONE www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket TCHIKOVSK Y

PER.

UL. ESKAY VNICH SADO 71 66

. PER SKY TAR . TA BOL

10 1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. 13 R. 25 Y PE ETSK N UZ 2-Y NO VOK

HE 5 VS KA YA U

N L. ZHE Forest Museum SOL 8 3 RA ND 7 E XA 4 . oneALof R E An atmospheric museum about Russia’ s greatest assets YP 3 ESK ICH ELN T O K TAG 9 of the Rus peoand passions. Forests5-Yhave been at the heart AN SKA YA UL. ple since before anyone had considered building the Kremlin and to this day they remain vast and unexplored24 to quite an extent. Part of the museum is concerned with this last point and the worry that in actual fact the forests might not be as permanent as we would like. Other displays include miniature models of traditional wooden buildings, some slightly baffledA EV BOLSHOY wildlife and plenty on forest ZD looking stuffed forest science, acVO KRASNOKHOLMSKY .G MOST UL companied by a soothing soundtrack of birdsong and trickling brooks. Effort has obviously gone18 into the appearance of the 3 . PER place and it’s quite an attractive Y museum. SSK SPA 6

B. 17 B. NA NA YA YA SKA SKA IAN HE AM NIC OD TEL SM KO KO

. PER SKY OV 15 YAK HN VIS 23

NAB.

TARASA SHEVCHEN KO

. UL

RIV ER

CHKALOVSKAYA

KA AN LY SO

. NAB 14

UL. AYA 29 TARSK . TA BOL

PER.

. PER SKY IAT SAR MIS KO

. PER 16 OVSKY 9 RK OZE

6 8

GOLIKOVSKY

27 46

RELSKY POGO

AYA VSK RKO 8 OZE

R. 8 Y PE VSK CHE MA TOL 9 Y R STA

PER.

6 1-Y KAZACHY PER.

1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.

4 PER. 16 VSKY 2-Y SPASONALIVKO

11 L. AU 5 NITSKAY 12 T 6 PYA

POLYANKA

16 1-Y SPAS 4 19 ONALIVKOVSK Y PER.

UL. BALCHUG

. 10 ER KOV P BRODNI

NOVOKUZNETSKAYA

14 10 KLIMENTOVSKY PER. OLMACHEVSKY PER. BOL. T TRETYAKOVSKAYA

6 R. SKY PE PYZHEV 5

ER. KY P OVS RUN 13

4 9

PE TNY

. PER 6 TNY

STAROSADSKY PER.

VA SIL YE VS KA UL YA .Y UL UL IU . SA FU CH IKA

BO L. G RU ZIN SKA YA UL .

23 MAL. GRUZINSKAYA UL.

PRESNENSKY VAL UL.

KURSKAYA

. ER R. YP N PE SK LYALI EN OS DS PO

KITAY GOROD

ONE ROM STA BOL.

25 A UL. NK LYA . PO 20 BOL 24

ONE ROM STA 3

R. PE KY NS KI OT OP KR

AL. moscow.inyourpocket.com

MALY KAMENNY MOST

4 A UL. ANK YAKIM MAL.

MO SC OW 1

L. AP AY AR ST

. 6 PER SKY YEV IPAT ER. KY P OLS 6 NIK 4 3 . ER YP BN RY

1-YA BO RODIN SKAY A UL.

. VAL UL ANOY ZEMLY

R. PE

KITAY GOROD

9 . R PE SKY 12 HEV ISHC GLIN 3 . SPASO 6 L BO

. PER KY ASS 6 ERK CH

PLOSHCHAD REVOLUTSII

OKHOTNY RYAD

4 R. PE KY NS

KRY MS KY

KY NS YA M AR

L. BO 4

TEATRALNAYA

. 5 SKY PER V PO TA PO

. PER SKY TIN US 1 LATO L. Z 13 BO 2 ZD 11 ROE YP SK AN . BY PL LU YA VA NO LUBYANKA

LUBYANKA

ER. KY P EVS ASH KAD . 1-Y PER SKY HIN RUS LAV

KI OP ER 11

6-8

PARK KULTURY

YP NN LE 2 KO 1

KUZNETSKY MOST

GAGARINSKY PER. One particular building of interest in Zamoskvorechye is The S PRECHI 10 1 10 1 OYM STENSK PER.the Embankment, House on an enormous apartment buildKY ON Y PE VS 7 R. OV GLAZO 12 9 5 SKY P 11 8 7 RO ing in downtown that faces Bersenevskaya Embankment CHIS EZ 1 D TY P 6 2 2 PATRIARSHY ER. . 15 -Y O 3 18 ER ul. Serafimovicha BYIt was built MOST on one side INand on the other. YP DE . SK 1 NS 4 UL PO 2 H 1 K A S Y K V 1 PE 13ZHAelite. ESNE from 1927 for the Soviet Writer Yuri . LE- 1931 as a residence R T 8 L 8 R . 2 HIS CH SK BO EN YP C 1 25 1 E -Y 10 OV R. ZA SK Trifonov, who lived in theP2R1 building - E1939, wrote CH Y P from 1931 ER AT . 5 VS an eponymous novel29that details the lives ofYEthe residents in KY PE 4 . the complex in the 1930s, many of whom were13 Rkilled during PO ME 38 35 MOLOCHNY PER. RA Stalin’s purges. During Soviet times KOitROB was notable for havNT 8 SE VP EY ER KH a . 3 NIKlaundry, and a club ing separate telephone connections, OV ILK OV 11 PE R. R for residents. The building currently hasPE505 apartments and R. 9 . 1 AB VE N I offices, a theatre, a cinema, restaurants, and stores. YA A K R B. NS TE Shortly after the RevolutionNOVO the Bolsheviks closed HIS W SKAYA NA and EC KR PR O YM M Y looted many of Zamoskvorechye’s churches, although 17 SK YP KR YM SC KR R. SKY O socialist love of PRO managed to survive the wrecking ball. The EZD M concrete finally came to the neighbourhood and highrise KRYMSKY blocks have started appearing in theMOSTlast two decades. KROPOTKINSKAYA

O TS OL EK 4 VO 1 5 ADO S

CHISTYE PRUDY

BOROVITSKAYA

10-12

KR AS NO SE L

KRASNYE VOROTA

ZNETSK Y MOS T UL.

NI ZH NA YA

O IV 3 . 4 Clement’s Church St. KR PER PUSHECHNAYA 4 KY UL. 3 6 ERS 3 ERG 9 Contrary to what the5 name might suggest6 this 2is actually a 8 MUSEUMS 32 KAM 5 PER. 2 . ZENNY 4 Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for Ostrovsky Museum 12 ER BOL. KA D P EZ Y O 9 SK LNY PR V RA TEAT GIE 1 the main church of Zamoskvorechye. OVKA UL. Some have called him the 4 OR a Roman pope and GE 4 KR 3 Nowadays the church’s five domes and two stories areP2O ‘Russian Shakespeare,’ and 15 KURSKIY 12 MAROSEYKA UL. VOKZAL bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic pinkish his output and national im13 BO GO other such historical buildings, it found MANEZHNAYA ER. red. But like many portance are indeed compaYP YA PL. N VL 22 ME R A EN VE on by Sthe KAZ 6 itself hanging skin of its teeth during the Soviet rable, writing an impressive KY 4 TO PE SH 7 KY R. NY L. PE years when authorities hadILINKit9A Uearmarked for demolition and KHOKHLOVS forty-seven plays, still the R. 10 KR AS 6 NA DU transformation into a kindergarten. After escaping that fate breadVERand butter of Russian RAS YA KHN O YAYA VSK PL YP 8 ER. MYA 5 it was then. (REDused to store books for the3Lenin State Library repertoire. SYROYet TNIC Alexander HESKA SQ YA U UA 2 L. RE LE remains overlooked abroad. This and only in 2008 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The Ostrovsky (1823-1886)TSOstill ) VO PO N . RO 8 LNY PER VO VARVARKA UL. PODKOLOKOwooden house church’s glittering exterior is matched by its renowned and modest is where the playwright was born 4 12 beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of and the surrounding area inspired the young Ostrovsky, who icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis. made his literary debut with sketches about Zamoskvorechye VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL. merchant13 life. Like many writers of his time, he found that 5 MOSK making a literary career was a case of exasperating conflict VORE 11 BOLSHOY NAB. 3 TSKA ESKAYA YA NAB B. YANICH ZAMOSKVORETSKY YA NA . SEREBR LEVSKA and compromise with who would often take MOST YA NAB. the censors, 16 KREM KA VS RAU BERNIKO SHSK 10 2 B. AYA 7 years to approveNa play, only to return it in a state that was AYA NA 36 NAB 5 SOFIYSK . 30 IKO 16 6 11 SAD 6 18 hardly recognisable.LOIfYAMalready well versed in Ostrovsky’s works OVN SKA ICH YA 18 ESKAY 13 12 UL. BOLSHOY 33 AU 26 10 documentation L. 18 39 of perforUSTYINSKY you will appreciate the thorough BOLSHOY 32 MOST KAMENNY 3 44 13 27 . mances of his plays in photographs. Even the uninitiated can MOST PL A OV CHINNI AY 11 KOVSKA TN 36 YA NA LO TETERINdesign sketches on display. As one of enjoy the numerous 2set B. 6 B. SKY PER. BO NA 32 LUZHKOV YA A K 14 . VS Russia’s most performed playwrights, Ostrovsky’s plays have AB MOST SHE AN DA VE KA AY RK TN HN over the years and the plans for back1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. taken on many guises LO YA 18 BO 10 9 10 Y 5 AR 10 AD drops and scenery are works of art in themselves. ISH 15 6 4 C 1

R. HNY PE DENEZ

Features

KOMSOMOLSKAYA

L. AU IN LYG AP . CH UL O OG SK OV UK ZH

30 K PER. VRAZHE SIVTSEV

. UL YA NA UD PR O N AS KR

SK AY AU L.

Consensual Therapy

2 DOK UC

ROZHDESTVENKA UL.

UL. NEGLINNAYA

16 UL. VKA RO PET 3

R. Y PE VSK 10 ZLO . KO BOL4 R. PE SKY YEV ON RIT HA L. K MA

YAROSLAVSKY VOKZAL

KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL.

SRETENSKY BULVAR

TURGENEVSKAYA

A 28 ARB

. PER SKY NIT MA KAR

Here you can find 18th century wooden structures fighting for real estate on the same street as a glittering 21st century business centre or hotel.

LENINGRADSKY VOKZAL

SUKHAREVSKAYA

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

YA KR AS NO SE L

UL. NAYA TRUB

BUL. TSVETNOY

TRUBNAYA

. PER NY ASH KAL L. Y BU ITSK ER. NIK KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

13 BOL. BALKANSKY PER.

UL. BOL. SPASSKAYA

R. TNY PE

TSVETNOY BULVAR

. UL

L. AU AY SK ER 12 TV

UL.

A PROSPEKT MIR

TROITSKAYA UL.

KARE BOL.

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

GROKHOLSKY PER.

UL. GILYAROVSKOGO

SHCHEPKINA UL.

MESHCHANSKAYA UL.

PR. PIYSKY OLYM

YA UL. YOCHNA SAMOT

CHURCHES

7 SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.

26 OVKA R MIT L. D BO

TVERSKAYA

PER.

BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

. PER OV TNIK PLO

Town House BURD 22 ENKO UL. QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW See full review on page 36. 1 Club Garage QС-4/5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs. PAESW See full review on page 42. 3

. LIKHOV PER D YA YR TN RE . KA UL

. ER YP SK EV NY DO

L. AP AY SK KIN SH PU CHEKHOVSKAYA . ER YP SK ZIT KO

IRI SP

Y PE SK R. EV R. SH PE LA KY PA L. NS I O T B SY

A NAY RON L. B MA

. UL KA OV ON ID IR SP

UL.

L MA

PUSHKINSKAYA

L. BU 12 NOY T AS STR

PROSPEKT MIRA

SK HA 13 AY E Church of the17 Resurrection in Kadashi AU 10 V PE MAL. SU 3 R. SKO L. 3 1 KH 24 RN SKAYA PL YA . Once the tallest 8building inAREVZamoskvorechye, this church Funky Lab ‘invents’ all of its meals so that they make ZH N KAZANSKY VOKZAL Y 12 PE R is in need of quite a bit of restoration, but then again the . great combinations with wines. For example, white BO 2 L. S UK NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. HA REV 4 last few centuries have been a bit ofSRETEN a SKYbumpy ride. Since asparagus salad and chips with jerk beef sommelier K 10 AYA P TUPIK L. SREDNY KARETNY PER. . PER. its construction in 1687 in the Baroque style, it has should be combined with a pink Californian ZinfanEVSKYMoscow PER BOL. SUKHAR SA DAEV PER. NY D 18 OVA been robbed, vandalized, and asVERSTO a Vstable by NapodelYA-Sor New Zealand5 Sauvignon15 Blanc. Pulp mutton POSLEDNY PER. used SELI PER. PA SSK 27 AY BASMANNAYA UL. BOL. GOLOVIN PER. AL. GO 1-Y KOLOBO AU LOVIN VSKY PER leonic troops, a KGB archive and a Mrecreational club for a ham, whole baked inNOVAYA the oven with mashed sweet L. PER. PUSHKAREV PER. PROSV IRIN PE R. EVSKY PER. LU SERGI nearby sausage factory. Its bell, which supposedly weighed potatoes are offered with a light Tempranillo (Muga) KOV PE BOL. PETR R. OVSKY ASHCH . KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER. EULO L. UL Vthe overBUsix tonnes, is rumoured to be kept in PER. Bolshoy TheaAY or Gamay Burgundy. Three phase gazpacho is laid out SK PER. PECHATNIKOV RYBNIKO IT 12 5 N 1 V PER. SRETENSKY BUL. tre and used2for productions Attempts inMYAS 40 in layers. The bar serves it own smoothies “Lab is”, inROZHDESTVENSKY of BUL. Boris Godunov. . . ER DA 20 YP BO 16 recent years to knock down historical buildings surroundspired by the Ychewing gum “Love is”. NNAYA UL . SK SLO V PER 32 O A AYA TR VSK DN 15 ASM PE NYE RO ing the church and replace11them with a 4luxury apartments Funky B 3 ARLab ITO 24 O 1 BO A G RAKHM GU . O AY BR . KH BOL. ANOVSK 15 R. OV AR OR PSEYRA BOL Y PER. Y PER. ST 14bldg O K HOVSK1, TN P PE Y PERMPolyand offices were 4metKISELN with complaints from QC-4, Polyanka 7/10, . 8 ER. locals. The IKO NY 12 Ul. Bolshaya AN VP 11 3 RM ER 2 FU . . threat of being surrounded by apartment blocks still looms, anka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar. 3 UL 2 CH VARSONO A FYEVSKY OV PER. 2 HK - 24:00, but inside, the church’s icons and friezes are as quiet as if ISTOPRU com. Open 12:00 Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. ER. 6 VP AS L. 8 KA 3 M IKO DN ZAK AU 4 HN OV Y B PASW See full review VK L ES none of this history had ever happened. on page 31. AU 2 U 3 . STO RO 19 9 L. L. ER KU OK

ARBATSKAYA

22 Y BUL. LENSK SMO

1-Y NE OP 1 AL 0 IM 15 OVSK 4 Y PER. 9

KA ROV DMIT MAL.

5 PER. USPENSKY 10

. PER SKY YIN AS ST NA

UL .

R. PE

Y INSK ZIKH . KO

DURO VA U L.

LAVRSKY PER.

1-Y VOL KONSK Y PER.

TV ER SK AY A

R. PE NY UD PR KH YO TR R. PE

KY INS IKH OZ L. K BO

. ER YP

. UL 5 AYA SK AT G E

22 The area was wracked by floods in the late 1700s and the beGRA NAT 20 NY P 19 ER. as a result, land here was among the ginning of 48 the 1800s, and MAL. 16 IKITSK AYA most affordable in NMoscow. After the construction of a dam in UL. 13 the 1830s the threat reduced and 35 2 industry started to settle BOL. was NIKITS KAYA UL 46 . PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA in. After thePOreforms of 1861 that led to the freeing of the serfs, 26 VA SKA RS KA TER YA TNY the area became class stronghold. The largest colUL a working P E R . . 12 lection of Russian art in the world and Moscow’s most15 popular 23 BO KH L. N museum is located in Zamoskvorechye. Founded by merchant L EB 8 IKIT 6 NY SKA PE YA R. UL Pavel Tretyakov in the 1850s, today approximately one million . 14 visitors walk through the doors of7 the Tretyakov Gallery annuBOL. MOL CHANOVKA UL. ally. 28Containing 22more than 130,000 works the gallery5 is located NOVY ARBAT UL. VOZDVIZH ENKA UL. on21Lavrushinsky Pereulok adjacent 11to the Church of St. Nicho2 17 5 las in Tolmachi. A separate exhibit on Russian art of the 20th UL. KAYA RS ZITO MPO KO century is located in a different building on ul. Krymsky Val. 25

SMOLENSKAYA

restaurants and clubs

26 Moscow In Your Pocket 5

. PER SKY OV EN PIM O AR PER. ST RNY YA GT DE

TRIUMFALNAYA PL.

MAYAKOVSKAYA

UL AYA VSK UKO GOR DOL 23

ROCHDELSKAYA 4 UL. centre of Moscow, Zamoskvorechye, a neighbourhood in the 15 5 spans multiple centuries: here one may be just as likely to find 18th century wooden structures fighting for real estate on the same street as a glittering 21st century business cen10 KRASNOPRESN SKA tre or hotel. The contrast is undoubtedlyENone YA of this district’s NA B. charms, as is the collection of churches and museums, withUKRAINA HOTEL PIERthe river. Indeed, out the tourist hordes one could find across the name of the neighbourhood means ‘across the river,’ liter36 ally, on the right or southern bank from the Kremlin. 31 32 NOVOARBATSKY This area was first settled in the 14th century. In its early 23 MOST . PR KY days the district was the home communities, VS 3 toKUvarious ZO U T enclaves, and professional quarters. Ul. Bolshaya Ordynka TOCHNY PER. is a testament to this neighbourhood’s Tatar past as “Orda” PRO 8 -YA BOR refers to the Golden Horde. Royal 2garden attendants and ODI NS AYA UL. K mint workers, tanners, soldiers of the streltsy (armed Russian guard units from the 16th-18th centuries), as well as court translators all made their homes in the area. In the time of Peter the Great, much of the court was transferred BOL . DO ROG OM to St. Petersburg and Zamoskvorechye experienced BORODINSKYsignifiILOV MOST SK A UL SKAYA UL. SMOLEN . cant depopulation, with the area beingAYresettled by farmers 7 and merchants. Many wealthy businessmen moved in beginning in the 18th century (they were particularly concentrated on Pyatnitskaya Ul. and Ordynka Ul.) and they made 4 UL. PER. their imprint by building churches, such as the 1755 Church EINY AYA KIEVSKY RUZH22 VSK VOKZAL KIE of the Saviour on Bolvany. KIEVSKAYA

MAYAKOVSKAYA

L. AU IN AS KR

8 3

24 UL KRA .Z SN AM AYA OR PRE EN SN BO OV YA L. P A UL RE . DT EC HE BARRIKADNAYA NS KY P 13 ER. KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA

ZAMOSKVORECHYE

UL .

1-Y SA MOTE CHNY PER.

L 9 DE 1 43 ETNAYA UL. SADOVOE KOLTSO SADOVAYA-KAR 20 12 . . L R U E P A INY NAY FAL ZHE RIUM ORU YA-T OVA D A S MAL. KARETNY PER.

V PER. VOLKO

ULITSA 1905 GODA

ENSKY PER. NOVOPRESN

L. AU OD 5G 190

12 3 RAST ORG UEV 4 PER . 1 STO LYA RNY P E 44 R.

UL. KL IMASH 1 KINA 6

VA UL .

L. AU IN AS KR

PER. 37

FA DE E

4-Y AT VE RS KA YA -YA M SK AY A

12 3

SRED NY TI SHIN SKY PE R.

BELORUSSKAYA

26 BOL. TIS HINSKY 43

XA ND RA

3-Y A TV NE 2-Y ER VS KO SK 1-Y A TV GO AY A ATV ERS UL YA 1-Y ER KA . M AB YA SK SK -YA AY RE 2-Y AY A S M -YA AB TS AU SK KA RE M L A . YA Y SK ST AY A U SK UL AY A U L. . AU L. L.

BELORUSSKY VOKZAL

MI US SK AY AP L.

UL LE SN AY A

AL E

BELORUSSKAYA

NOVOSLOBODSKAYA

L. AU KAY ARS L ET PRO SNO KRA

Features

LEN ING RA DS KY PR .

O NOV 9

June9 - July 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PAESW

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Chekhov Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff. QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAS

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

28 Moscow In Your Pocket

Club Petrovich Step back into the Soviet 50s and 60s. This club is high on the nostalgia factor with everything from traditional home made drinks like the tart berry mors, to thick Russian bliny, big soups, meatballs and shashlik. Real Stalin-era cutlery, bowls and lamps litter the place which is crammed with authentic Soviet memorabilia. Petrovich is officially a ‘members only’ club, so the best way to guarantee you get in is to make a table reservation in advance.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 24, bldg. 3, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 00 82, www.petrovich.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 05:00. After 17:00 entrance only with a club card or prior reservation. €€. PAESW Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. In the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke. ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW

Asian and Indian Aromass This Indian restaurant, which features a number of dishes from the Kerala region on its menu, gets reviews so good online that something almost seems amiss. Indeed, I knew one long-term expat who travelled at least once a month fully across the city to eat here. Located in the south of the city along the orange line, the food, the service and the ambience do not disappoint. There is an excellent selection of vegetarian options, Kingfisher beer, and plenty of seafood options which is no surprise considering that Kerala straddles the Arabian and Laccadive Seas. QUl. Krzhizhanovskogo 20/30, bldg. 1, MProfsouznaya, tel. (+7) 917 562 93 85, www.aromass.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PAESW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kitaisky Kvartal The menu at ‘Chinese Quarter’ features plenty of dim sum, noodle dishes and some less well-known Chinese options, and vegetarians will find there’s a good selection. Business lunches cater to the very hungry - though they cost 350Rbl, that’ll get you unlimited amounts of the tasty oriental salad bar and from selected hot dishes as well. We recommend the refreshing homemade jasmine iced tea, which you may want several glasses of if you pick an especially well salted dish. The bamboo décor and unintrusive music mean this is a relaxing sort of place, even at their restaurant on the busy Taganskaya Pl. Also at Pr. Mira 1 (metro Sukharevskaya).QE-4, Vorontsovskaya ul. 2/10, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 32 02, www.chinachain.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PASW Maharaja Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny.QD-2, Starosadsky 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, www.maharaja.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Menza Japanese noodles for those on a budget. Order your meal by ticking the boxes on the order forms and then handing them into the waiter. Disco tunes play, and your food arrives in minutes. It doesn’t feel like a fast food joint (you don’t get hot towels at McDonald’s for instance) but our meal came in around ten minutes. Warehouse loft location, friendly service and Japanese beer which is light on the fizz and the roubles makes this place even more democratic. Also at ul. Rusakovskaya 22 (metro Sokolniki).QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 32, bldg.1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 32 40, www.menza-lapsha.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. €. PASW Tan It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAESW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. June - July 2014

Where to eat watching the world cup

Football fans might regret being in Russia and not Brazil this June, but if you want to watch the latest on field action, here are some great sports bars where to meet up with your mates and watch your favourite teams playing the best in the world. Chelsea Gastro Pub QB-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW GlavPivTrest QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 46/2, MKrasnie Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 97 97, www.pivtrest.com. Open 09:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEW Punch and Judy Pub QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 6/1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 39 92, www.pjpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW Sally O’Brien’s QC-4, Ul. bol. Polyanka 1/3, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 959 01 75, www.sallyobriens.ru. Open 12:00 01:00. €€. PENSW Scotland Yard Pub QC-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Silvers QC-2, Nikitsky per. 5/6, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 690 42 22, www.silverspub.com. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri 08:00 until last guest, Sat 10:00 until last guest, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PNW Stirlitz QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, www.stirlitz.su. Open 24hrs. €. PASW St.Peters and St.Anton Pub QC-2, Nikitinsky per. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 626 68 01, www.realpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAW The Hudson Bar QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW 30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat U-Me U-Me means “dream” in Japanese. Sitting in pan-Asian furniture with kabuki characters on the walls, you soon realise that this is no ordinary restaurant. Japanese rice as it should be, typical side dishes, fresh ingredients, authentic flavours. If it’s good enough to keep the Japanese in Moscow satisfied, it’s good enough for me. Their extensive business lunch menu, including takeaway bento boxes, is matched by the wide selection of sashimi and sushi. Reservations essential in the evenings and weekends; they even deliver.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 38A, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 795 621 78 40, www.u-me.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVSW

Caucasian George The restaurant’s name - George - sounds like the country it’s devoted to - Georgia. Nino Chanturiya, co-owner of legendary Seiji and Ginkgo restaurants, has set a goal to create a premium Georgian restaurant in Moscow combining professionalism in work and love for her motherland. Chef Lali Gadeliya was invited to Moscow for this project to fulfil the main task of the restaurant - keeping the traditions of national cuisine, by using a recipe-book dating back to 1962. The interior impresses as well: hand-embroidered table-clothes, vintage candelabrums, unique lampshades, original paintings, fireplace, grand piano, ancient furniture, and carpets on the floor - you cannot but enjoy this.QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 6 (Entrance from nab. Tarasa Shevchenko), MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 785 08 05, www.georgerest.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PALESW Khacha-puri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 23:00. €. PAESW Kish Mish This kitsch and friendly restaurant takes you straight to Tashkent - apparently everything from the cushions to the waiters’ traditional garb is all imported from Uzbekistan’s capital. It gets particularly packed at lunchtime when the business lunch set menu (advertised on the tables in Russian) is running. The plov (meat and pilau rice) or the manti (large meat dumplings) are excellent choices, as is moscow.inyourpocket.com

the warm and satisfying kifta-shurpa (a light soup with vegetables and meatballs) although you may well also be tempted by the smell of the sizzling shashliks or the extensive salad bar.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 07 03, www.novikovgroup.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €. PAS Madame Galife If you are lucky enough to get your way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in.QD-1, Pr. Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www. madamgalife.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. €€. AESW

European Cafe Tchaikovsky A sprawling café and restaurant understandably popular with theatre and classical music enthusiasts as it is located right in the centre of Moscow theatre land and literally underneath the Moscow Conservatory. Dark lighting, leather and mahogany furniture and elegantly dressed waiters create a pleasantly grand atmosphere although a bit more classical music on the stereo would perhaps better suit the surroundings. Regardless the menu is packed with well-made Russian classics and a wide selection of pizza, pasta, grilled fish and the like meaning there’s something for everyone. Tchaikovsky also has an extensive selection of great cakes, pastries and other desserts to sample if you decide just to pop in for a coffee and a snack.QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 14, novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ chaykovskiy/. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that while presenting it all in a beautiful and funny way, the food is just plain good, with a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and with very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location. Is all this even possible in Moscow? It sure is, this restaurant deserves its visitors. QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Where to eat Interview with the chef Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Aleksei Lyalin and I am the head chef of the Marriot Moscow Tverskaya Hotel. I began my professional career as a chef in 1998 in the restaurant of the Holiday Inn Vinogradovo and in the course of the last 16 years I have worked with some of Europe’s leading chefs including Paul Bocuse and Pierre Troisgros, acquiring experience in different restaurants around Moscow as well as further afield. At the Marriot Moscow Tverskaya Hotel I will be responsible Grazzi restaurant and for the Lobby Bar and am developing new menus for our guests. What new dishes are you going to offer guests of the Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel? I have gone over the menu for the Marriot Mosow Tverskaya and will be adding some delicious new dishes for our patrons. For those who want a truly Russian delicacy, we will have ukha – which is a Russian soup. We will also have a Russian style burger. In terms of salads, patrons can enjoy our fennel avocado salad with grapefruit segment, and to finish it all off they can try our strawberry with sabayon sauce What specific Russian dish would you recommend to foreign visitors of Russia? When it comes to really nice Russian cuisine I have always loved Beef Stroganoff which first appeared in Russia in the mid 19th century and has become one of Russia’s most popular ‘exports’. Grichka or buckwheat with mushrooms and onions is another standard Russian favourite which seems to be practically unknown elsewhere and is particularly good as it is gluten free and has a delicious earthy taste. Ukha fish soup is also a favourite Russian soup and is less well known than borsch – which is Ukrainian anyway! And of course strawberries with sabayon sauce make for the perfect dessert. Hediard Welcome to a small corner of Paris in Moscow. The shop downstairs is packed with all kinds of foodie delights from beautifully decorated cakes and handmade chocolates, to Camemberts and bries, to all kinds of pates and chutnies. The cafe upstairs is delightfully sophisticated, if not a little small. However what it lacks in seating space, it certainly makes up for with a menu over 44 pages long! For those with a sweet tooth, head straight to the patisserie section where you will be faced with the virtually impossible task of choosing.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www. hediard.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW 32 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Jerome&Patricе Those of you who have had the pleasure to enjoy dinning at one of the Ginza Project’s numerous restaurants will be pleased to discover yet another restaurant to treat your taste buds. Jerome&Patrice takes a new look at authentic French provincial cooking. The head chefs Jerome Coustillas and Patrice Terejoles have taken care to preserve French traditions while taking the best out of modern trends in international cuisine. The restaurant has also tried to keep up with modern demands for healthy eating and natural food. The establishment has magnificent views onto the square and comfortable seating and lovely lighting. QD-3, Slavyanskaya pl. 2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 784 69 69, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. PASW Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish… the mouthwatering list goes on. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments.QC-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www. lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW Scandinavia An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-1, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www. scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAS Yornik Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general design and atmosphere goes against the name and is wonderfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outlandish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel bar look and service remains discreet but professional making it a great place for private business discussions or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics such as excellent handmade pelmeni, borsch and other international winners.QB-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW moscow.inyourpocket.com

International Art Clumba Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural features. QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.artclumba. ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Dandy cafe There’s a place in central Moscow where you can go for breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, dancing and then brunch, so basically you never have to even leave! Dandy cafe on Novy Arbat is a favorite among hipsters, expats, businessmen and trendy cosmopolites alike. The food and drinks are superb yet prices don’t pinch, the low-key ambience allows guests to unwind, relax and be themselves and fun events take place almost on a nightly basis.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 38, www.dandytimes.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. Kalina Cafe The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. QС-4, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe.ru. Open 11:30 - 06:00. €€€. PEW Kobe Ever had the pleasure of sinking your teeth into an authentic, tender and well-marbled Kobe beef steak and have been craving it ever since? Or would you simply like to finally find out what the hype is all about? There’s only one place in Moscow that can serve you the real deal and that place is the very aptly named Kobe Steak House on Kutuzovsky Prospekt. Here, chef Seiji-San whips up a wide range of exclusive steaks such as Kobe Rebuy, Ishiyaki, Striploin Ishiyaki, Tenderloin Ishiyaki, and fish steaks. Staying true to tradition, the elite Wagyu beef is served on heated stones with three sauces. The minimalistic Japanese interior creates an atmosphere of purity and quietness, making Kobe an ideal place for a romantic outing or an impressive business meeting.QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1 bldg. 6 (Entrance from nab. Tarasa Shevchenko), MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 785 08 05, www.kobesteak. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALESW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Where to eat SUMMER terraces

Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is to be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces and beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow’s main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city’s back streets. Moscow In Your Pocket picks out some of the best places to eat and drink in the open air: Art Clumba QArt Clumba na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.artclumba.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Dacha na Pokrovke QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.18/15 bldg. 2 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW Deti Raika QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW Gogol QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. Fri, Sat 24hrs. €. PAESW Le Pain Quotidien QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 45 60, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €. PASW Madame Boulanger QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madame-boulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW €€. PASW Scandinavia QB-2, Mal. Palashevsky per. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW Sky Lounge QLeninsky pr. 32a, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 until last guest. €€€. PASW 36 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Kon-Tiki The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. The authentic Hawaiian style cocktails are moderately priced, so forget your worries and enjoy the rhythm of a salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the Aztec Surfboard or Ginger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www. kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAESW

MoMo This Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too narrowly - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh pasta, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served in a style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising. Its business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms, with its most spacious resembling a summer terrace, complete with wicker chairs. QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest. ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW

Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria The real winner here is the pizza - it’s long and incredibly thin and arrives at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. There are also other Italian favourites on offer, but we are always tempted by the pizza. The smart staff and a soundtrack that for once does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti adds yet more fresh air to the usual formula.QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www.pizzasorriso. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Town House A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet

Steak Houses Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www. funnycabany.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. The prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. QC-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASWOutside the city

Italian Mamma Giovanna This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mammagiovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PASW moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat Fish Point Gone are the days when man would go out into the nature to get his food himself…or are they? Fish Point, located in the Zolotoi Fazan fishing complex about 10km northwest of Moscow’s city edges, offers guests a chance to get their hands on some fishing rods and try their luck at catching roughly 15 different types of freshwater fish. From its spacious and country style terrace, the restaurant overlooks the lovely Lipka river and the luscious forest surrounding it. Fresher fish is probably impossible to come by anywhere in the Moscow area and the chefs have their own unique way of preparing all sorts of delicacies from various seas and lakes. QNovorizhskoe Shosse, 29km, MVolokolamskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 36 65, www.fishpointrest. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro take marshrutka 209 or 151. €€. PAW

Every foreigner coming to Moscow will almost always have the following stereotype: Russia is the coldest country in the world, where winter lasts for four to five months throughout the larger part of its territory. And true as it may be, the stereotype forgets to mention how beautiful, blooming and hot our summers can be! Typically, our summers don’t last more than three months so when it finally arrives we just love to do everything outdoors: cyclists, rollers and skateboarders cut through the city streets, a huge number of cafes set up their own summer terraces on the streets and locals spend time walking along the river, which is one of the best places to marvel at the beautiful sunset. Many Muscovites respond to the summer heat by spending as much time out of the city as possible, either on holiday or at the dacha. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a dacha, however. So we’ve decided to compile a little list of really cool and cooling restaurants outside the city, in the nature, to make the most of your Russian summer experience. Ermak A tranquil setting in the beautiful Russian nature, a lively little stream flowing from the lush forest, traditional Russian huts and wells reminding us of the olden days and a serene river providing a nice fresh breeze…sounds like a place far far away, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not! Welcome to Ermak restaurant, located just a short distance away from Moscow’s Krylatskoe metro station. The interior has an authentic medieval Russian feel to it while the summer veranda - under the soft shade of the trees - overlooks the river and the gently rolling hills. The menu is full of hearty Russian delicacies such as soups, pies, pickled vegetables, pelmeni and meats/fish prepared over hot burning coal. QUl. Nizhnie Mnevniki 41/1, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 728 20 03, www.restoran-ermak.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro go to the bus station (5 min) and take bus 271. €€€€. PAW 38 Moscow In Your Pocket

Florentini Country Café Authentic Italian food, a peaceful forest setting and a lovely summer veranda - what more could you wish for on a scenic summer day? Thankfully, Florentini has all this! Located just outside Moscow’s main ring road to the south, Florentini has that relaxing atmosphere that you sometimes desperately need after the hustle bustle of the city. And make sure to arrive very hungry because the pizza is authentic, the risottos and pasta plentiful, the meats and fish simply to die for, the salads fresh and the desserts scrumptious!QKaluzhkoe Shosse, Dubrovka, Sosnovaya ul. 3B, MTeply Stan, tel. (+7) 495 225 36 86, www. florentinicafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro take marshrutka 398 or 531 to Dubrovka. PAW Shorehouse Perhaps it’s not quite the marina of Monaco, but ShoreHouse restaurant by the yacht club at Crocus City is the only place just within Moscow’s city limits that can come close. During the summer months this restaurant/poolside terrace is the ideal place to catch some sun, take a dip in the pool with you refreshing drink of choice, enjoy the view of yachts gently rocking on the waves, feel the fresh breeze from the river and, of course, savor some fantastic dishes ranging from fresh seafood to sushi, and from traditional Russian dishes to Central Asian specialties. This is also an ideal place for all kinds of events, corporate or private.QCrocus City Mall, MKAD 65 - 66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 78, www.sh-crocus.ru/ru/ restaurant. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALW

Bogdarnya Do you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails? Are you tired of all the GMO and chemical-pumped produce that all the supermarkets seem to be selling? If your answer is yes, why not get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism! Interested? Then a great place to do this is at the Bogdarnya Agricultural and Touristic Complex.

This 400-hectare riverside property is located in the picturesque countryside and forest about 120 kilometres east of Moscow (in Vladimir region, near the town Petushki), providing the chance to experience life on a real, working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here you can learn all about meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage yourself in other forms of educational “agritainment”. Bogdarnya also provides a wide range of recreational activities, including horse riding, quad biking, fishing, canoeing, hiking, paintball and more.

Bogdarnya also has two stables mostly with Russian breeds of horses including Vyatki, Donchaki, Orlov trotters and Vladimir Heavy Draft which were all used on the track in former times either for riding or harness work. Visitors can enjoy any type of equestrian activity from short 30 minute rides for beginners with a trainer to longer three hour rides, as well as coach rides, sledge rides. The facility can also support classical equestrian sport with three parade fields. The complex also hosts children’s camps, career guidance programs for school students, plus corporate events, training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment. On a more romantic note, one can also arrange a ride in the forest using one of their horse drawn carriages, or sleighs in winter and have a picnic around a fire with samovar, gluxvin and shashlik. A 22-room onsite hotel is soon to reopen in a recently renovated and extended building on the property. The complex was founded by an Englishman, John Kopiski, and his Russian wife Nina. The Kopiskis are devoted Orthodox Christians with a mission to promote a healthy lifestyle, so a visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat that benefits both body and soul! QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B (121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www. bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi to Bogdarnya.

The Bogdarnya “Vladimir Track” festival is a traditional village celebration with sleigh rides in winter and coach rides in summer. The festival is dedicated to Russia’s main road the Vladimir (or Siberian) Track. moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed.

Alternative and live music

hidden round the back which really fills up when a popular DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and the aircon works marginally better back there. The music here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle here.QE-3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW

B2 Club One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts, a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club. ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEW

Dom Every city needs a music venue like this. Dom will rarely host an act you’ve heard of, and will often talk about a genre you’re not entirely sure about, but it’s run by people who know and love their music. Therefore you can be sure that whoever is on stage will be doing their thing - from experiment electronica to Tibetan ritual percussion - with impressive expertise and professionalism. You can also be confident that the audience is there to see the band, not look at each other. Tasty Timmermans Kriek is on tap, and there’s a fully no-smoking policy. Open your ears, and give it a try.QD-4, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 24, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 72 36, www.dom.com. ru/eng. Open Wed - Sun from 19:00. PENGW

Cult Club This is one for the cool kids who are into their funk and deep soul music and can keep dancing to it until the sun rises. At first glance it seems like a small underground place, but there is in fact a whole other huge café/restaurant area

Duma This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to come early or book a table in advance.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 05:00. PENW

40 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAULW Darling, I’ll call you later Half way between pub and bar this curiously named drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport and plenty of large tables. Yet more encouraging is the chance to bring in board games or cards to play with your mates. By mixing a more upscale drinks menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both wealthier students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 926 520 77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAGW Didu For some stylistic reason everywhere from the doors to the toilet walls have been attacked by plastisine shapes crafted by idle hands into people, flowers, logos, names and other more suggestive shapes - perhaps its a hint towards the age of the average guest here, or at least their attention span. On quieter evenings it can be a nice venue for drinks with friends, albeit a little too young for some. Come weekends there’s a much more Europop vibe as the air pumps with the latest party tunes and a young sparkly crowd come to flirt and down cocktails under neon lights. QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 24, bldg.2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 13 20, www.cafe-didu.ru. Open 12:0006:00. PAW Moloko Until recently this was a Soviet-style dairy store, selling farm-fresh milk from the churn and looking increasingly incongruous among the smart shops of this downtown district. Now, though, tea and cocktails have replaced tvorog and kefir, and the utilitarian tiled counters have been swept away in favour of dark-wood fittings and a light jazz soundtrack. Thus, Moloko neatly illustrates how Moscow has changed, with socialist practicality replaced by a local attempt www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

at a Viennese café. The food isn’t bad at all, although the quail in a mushroom jus was more of a snack than a meal, despite the price tag; the Viennese ambience will take a bit longer to develop.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 5, M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 09. 24hrs. AW MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Live music nights on Thursdays with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar. su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAE June - July 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Tiki-Bar In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAEW

Clubs Propaganda A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portion-wise and the loungehouse sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENW Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October. QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW 42 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 - 06:00. PAEW Solyanka Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Just arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Don’t forget to carefully put together your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-thanthou dress code control - even if you were eating here earlier in the day, they will still force you through the ordeal later on. QD-3, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Open 10:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 07:00. PAEW

Cocktail Bars Dream Bar The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic, strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PASW Secret Bar Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley of one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 06:00. PAEW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

What to see

What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. 44 Moscow In Your Pocket

Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

RIVER CRUISES Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radissoncruise.ru. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats leave every day between 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance. Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW

June - July 2014

What to see Moscow Free Tours Moscow Free Tours offer a great way to see the city on a budget whilst finding out interesting facts and anecdotes about Moscow and its history. The tour guides are passionate and personal and are really good at engaging with those doing the tours. They really want you to have a good time because then you’re more likely to tip! The website is clearly set up and the booking process simple. The tours cover many of the main attractions of Moscow, and did I mention it’s absolutely free?! Just don’t forget to book beforehand. Moscow Free Tours also offers paid tours: a Kremlin, a Communist and a Moscow Metro tour.QC-3, Nikolskaya ul. 4/5, MPloschad Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 222 34 66, www. moscowfreetour.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Free tours start every day at 10:45 (2 hrs). The Kremlin tour is not possible at Thursdays, but instead you can make the Arbat Promenade Tour. Kremlin tour 1,900Rbl, Metro tour 1,200Rbl, and Communist tour 1,200Rbl (2 hrs).

Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).

What to see Novodevichy Cemetery This is the Who’s Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin.QLuzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery This humble 17th Century monastery, which was extensively reconstructed during the 19th Century, derives most of its fame from Matryona of Moscow, the local saint who is buried here. Born in 1885, Matryona, although born blind was blessed from an early age with remarkable prophecy and healing powers. During the communist years she was an important figure in the clandestine Christian movement and is said to have performed many miracles. In 1952 she predicted her own death and died soon after. Her final wishes were that all who needed her should come to visit her even when she was gone and she would strive even in death to offer solace to those in need. QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www. pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Vysoko-Petrovsky Monastery Founded in the 1380s, in the same century as Moscow itself, this early medieval monastery was part of the original fortifications of the city. Today, the several churches inside have marvellous paintings and icons inside yet the exterior is really quite rundown. Today there is a friendly colony of cats, fed by the monastery faithful.QС-2, Ul. Petrovka 28/2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 17 78, www.obitelpetrova.ru. Open 08:30 - 20:00. Admission free.

46 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www. vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www. poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www. rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Modern art centres Moscow Multimedia Art Museum This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Moscow Museum of Modern Art Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli offers an impressive introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission from 150Rbl. Red October Chocolate Factory One of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the Red October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out of the city centre a few years ago and as the old building’s conversion into a luxury residential complex slowed down, the artists moved in. The current residents includes the Lumiere brothers photography centre that regularly stages great retrospectives of international and local photographers from the modern age all the way back in to the early 20th Century. The Art Strelka design college is also located here and regularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts on their outdoor stage. QC-4, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya, www.redok.ru. Winzavod A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspirations on an industrial factory lot that used to be a wine factory. There are over ten galleries with exhibitions varying from Russian photography to American and British works. There are also artists studios, an alternative clothes shop and an excellent cafe. The location and industrial surroundings gives the feeling of being on the movie studio back lot.Q4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. June - July 2014

What to see Nikolay Roerich Museum Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20th Century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. A must see.QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl.

State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. In 1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English 48 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU

Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue, in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and stages.QB-5, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU moscow.inyourpocket.com

Parks and Gardens

Tsaritsyno

State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolai was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gérard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoye show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. The exhibition runs until March 8, 2015.QGETTING THERE: From MTushinskaya, MRizhskaya, MDmitrovskaya. 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, Krasnogorsky District. Tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open.

high obelisk covered in representations of scenes from the war. Behind the obelisk there’s also a war memorial museum and further on down the hill an exhibition of tanks, war planes and other heavy weaponry. Beyond that the park stretches on into forest and down towards a tributary of the Moscow river.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 7, Poklonnaya gora, MPark Pobedy. Open 24hrs.

Gorky Park The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular openair concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.park-gorkogo.com. Open 24hrs. Free wi fi available throughout the park. Park Pobedy Constructed in honour of Russia’s victory in the Great Patriotic War (World War II), park pobedy (victory) offers powerful reminders of Russia’s suffering during the war as well as providing views over the skyscrapers of Moscow. The entrance to the park is marked by a long promenade surrounded by fountains, which leads up to a 142 metre www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tsaritsyno Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills) Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular.QMichurinsky pr. 13, MVorobyevy Gory, tel. (+7) 499 739 27 07, www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. June - July 2014

Where to stay

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Ilia Pismenny, Concierge at the Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow Tell us something about yourself. From early age I was an ice skater and juggler for an American Ice Show for many years. Later I graduated from the International School of Hotel Management, Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 2002. Since then I have worked in hotels in different front office positions. I became a hotel concierge in 2010 with the opening of a luxury 5 star hotel in Moscow. At the end of 2012, I joined the prestigious U.I.C.H. Les clefs d’Or association and now being 38 years old I love this profession even more. Summer is upon us, what should we visit? In Moscow’s summer heat I always recommend getting closer to nature by taking a tour of the Moscow suburbs like Kolomenskoe (an estate which used to be the summer residence of tsars) and Tsaritsyno (a magnificent country estate with a park spread over an area of a about 250 acres built for Empress Catherine the Great). For those that prefer to stay within the city centre I recommend visiting the cosy Hermitage Gardens with its three theatres, several playgrounds and cafes. This is where Leo Tolstoy used to stroll. Another place which you must see is located on the banks of the Moskva River, Gorky Park. This famous location of nearly 300 acres was once a Soviet amusement park and is now a modern cultural space. Take a Radisson cruise boat directly from the park. What are the biggest challenges for you as a concierge during the summer? Summer is the season for tourism. The biggest challenge, I would say, is getting our guests into Armoury Chamber museum and Kremlin cathedrals with private guides. Many guests start writing to concierge well in advance of their arrival in order to plan their stay and want everything to be confirmed. Kremlin rules, being very strict, unfortunately do not always allow us to confirm visits ahead of time. Another challenge is securing a table on summer terraces at trendy restaurants as many of them do not take bookings but seat guests upon arrival. In both cases this is where a concierge’s contacts can be useful. The Ararat Park Hyatt hotel has quite a few dining options, which one would you recommend? At Ararat Park Hyatt we have our famous rooftop Conservatory Lounge and Bar with Kremlin and Bolshoi theatre view, a modern minimalist sushi bar, Enoki, breakfast restaurant The Park and our signature restaurant Café Ararat. I definitely recommend Café Ararat which combines traditional Armenian with contemporary cultures. Its authentic dishes are prepared using ingredients freshly delivered direct from Armenia. 50 Moscow In Your Pocket

Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 stars Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Ul. Neglinnaya 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 14,000Rbl). Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. 230 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 201 rooms (Room prices start at 15,200Rbl). Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriottmoscowgrand.com. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 10,000Rbl). Nikol’skaya Moscow QC-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 211 rooms (Prices start at 16,000Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radisson.ru/royalhotel-moscow. 497 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 225 rooms (Room prices start at 7,434Rbl). moscow.inyourpocket.com

4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Holiday Inn Lesnaya QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. 301 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 70 rooms (Room prices start at 14,500Rbl). Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya. com. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 11,500Rbl). Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 3,391Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Radisson Blu Belorusskaya Hotel QA-1, Ul. 3-ego Yamskogo Polya 26, bldg. A, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 00, www.radissonblu. com/belorusskayahotel-moscow. 264 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl). Renaissance Moscow Hotel QOlimpsky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.renaissancemoscow.ru. 485 rooms (Room prices start at 9,000Rbl).

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. (Room prices start at 4,700Rbl). Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). Warsaw QLeninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Shopping

Shopping SPASEEBO At work, in the car, at home, on holiday, in the club, behind the wheel, in front of the computer - what is the one accessory that is a must for all these activities and occasions? Why, sunglasses of course! And where do we get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here you can choose from the largest range of shades: Russian wooden shades Woodsun, Woodwedo, Woodeez, as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa, Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray Bans and Vannis. Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online. Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00. Visa and Mastercard accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 372 02 17, www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A

RAKETA WATCHES Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com. Podium Concept Stor QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com. Open 12:00 – 23:00. TSUM Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. Tsvetnoy Central Market Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. 52 Moscow In Your Pocket

Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook, situated just off Tverskaya ul., is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. AL moscow.inyourpocket.com

Art salon on starosadsky

This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.artgemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Russian souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.

Shopping Centres Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. June - July 2014

Business directory

Business directory DO‘s and don‘ts

Accountants and Consultants

On two wheels

Behavioural differences faced by Expats – some do’s & don’ts of doing business in Russia

Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru. SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.

Especially in weekends, you can see hundreds of bicycles flocking the parks of Moscow. Last year, following the example of other world cities like London, Paris and Vienna, Russia introduced its own city bikes which can be rented from various bicycle stations throughout the city. From a legal perspective, a cyclist was a pedestrian with some kind of steel device between his legs. A recent change in the Правила Дорожного Движения Российской Федерации (Rules of Road Traffic of the Russian Federation) has introduced the велосипедист (cyclist) as a fully entitled participant of road traffic. Government Regulation № 221 of 22 March 2014, which entered into force on 8 April 2014 has made the bicycle a real means of transport with all rights and obligations. The most important change for cyclists is probably that a driver who turns right or left must render priority to a cyclist going straight. This was not written clearly before. The new rules forbid cars to use sidewalks and shoulders and obliges cyclists to use cycle paths, cyclo-pedestrian paths or cycle lanes, IF they are there. In central Moscow, you can indeed observe this novelty of cycle paths painted in fresh green. But where there are no such special roads for cyclists, cyclist of 14 years of age and older may use the roads. This has not really trickled down to the streets yet. Many cyclists are still using the pavement to the dismay of pedestrians because of their growing numbers. After all, a bicycle has wheels and this means “higher in the

Don’t schedule early morning appointments unless it with other foreigners. Moscow might be a 24 hour city but Russians simply don’t do mornings. If you suggest meeting at eight, chances are that a Russian will assume you mean eight in the evening, not morning! Do re-confirm any appointments that you previously set up weeks before, or (even better) on the day of the meeting itself. Given the ad hoc nature of Russian business, it’s quite normal for meetings to be moved even at the last minute. This is known as a ‘kontrol’ny zvonok’, or a confirmation call and is also a useful way of ensuring that a pass has been ordered for you to enter the building – and DO remember to bring photo ID with you! Don’t send a Russian an e-mail asking if you can telephone them in several days’ time (unless of course if it is a lengthy conference call or a telephone interview), just call them. If they are busy, they will tell you and you can quickly agree a time that works for both of you. Interrupting people isn’t really an issue on the phone – worst case, they won’t answer or their mobile will be switched off. Then you can e-mail them!! Do bring a large stack of business cards with you (preferably printed in Russian on the reverse side), several times more than you think you’ll need. Invariably you will be introduced to additional people than those you were expecting to meet, such as other colleagues, partners or customers – be liberal when handing them out. Do take advice from people who have ‘been there and done it’, rather than people who think they have. “Yeah, I know all about Russia, I met this Polish guy once who told me about it” is similar to thinking you can become an astronaut after watching a few episodes or Star Trek! Don’t believe everything that you read in the international media about Russia – come and find out for yourself. Chat to some Expats who’ve been in town for a while as they’ll give you more realistic insights into what’s going on than you’ll see on CNN! Do come out with an open mind, a healthy dose of patience and a sense of humour, then explain to your head office that they need to learn to be comfortable with ambiguity! Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com

U vas est visitka? – Do you have a business card? 54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club Qwww.britishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

pecking order” in the law of the asphalt jungle. The sound of rubber on the street causes a jump-to-the-side reflex with many pedestrians. For the cyclist who has the courage to hit the open road, the opportunities are boundless. Drivers are surprisingly tolerant towards cyclists, especially when you are very clear about when you are going. Use hand signals to change lanes and thank the driver who lets you pass with a hand slightly raised from the handle bar. Making eye contact dramatically increases your safety. The hybrid nature of the bicycle makes it possible to use the best of both worlds. As soon as you get off your bike, you are a pedestrian. For example, you can use the переход (underpass) to quickly get to the other side of a large road (usually called a шоссе or a проспект). And especially during working days, the bus lanes are a relative oasis. But look out for jeeps and девятки (the hatchback Lada Samara, called simply “number 9” in Russian)! Despite the novelty of moving on two wheels, the Moscow cycling scene is refreshingly diverse. Mountain bikes are the most common, but also low riders, city bicycles, racing and audax bikes and even fixies can be spotted. It is common for cyclists to greet each other, with a raised hand or simply a nod. And if you are within hearing distance, you may use the traditional Russian greeting for sportsmen amongst each other : «физкульт привет»! Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Expat & Lifestyle

Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Jonathan Bex. I trained as an actor in London and the US and worked professional for many years, mainly in the UK, but now spend a lot of my time in Moscow the theatre company keeps me very busy here. I have a young family here as well now and I am slowly learning Russian with my daughter - so far I’ve learnt, “she sleeps”, “she eats”, “she cries”. What were your first ever impressions of Russia? You always believe Russia is going to be cold. Not just the climate but people’s attitudes. That’s the impression you’re given. I was in my mid 40s before I first came here so that impression had been stamped on me for a number of years. I was pleasantly surprised. OK - my first visit here was in May so the weather was warm but so were the people. What do you enjoy most about living in Moscow? It’s an exciting city. There is so much going on. Yes, theatre is my first love and Moscow is teeming with it. Of course it’s in Russian but you read the play before hand you can still have a really enjoyable experience. But then there is dance and music so culturally there’s a lot to do and see. The city is blessed with parks as well so there’s always green spaces to find for relaxation. I also love walking through the city and straying off the main routes - there is some delightful architecture and interesting places to find. What can you tell us about the difference between theatre in Russia and in England? An actor’s life seems to be changing in Russia and starting to resemble that of the actor’s life in the UK more. In the UK actors are freelancers going from job to job - tv, theatre, radio and touring. They may work for a theatre company on more than one occasion but it’s not a permanent job. Many, actually still most, actors in Moscow have permanent residences in companies. A friend of mine works at the Maly Theater. He’s been there for thirty years since he left drama school! That just doesn’t happen in the UK. It has advantages and disadvantages but I think most UK actors would love the chance to have such a full and reliable career. Content wise, generally, Russian theatre still seems to present more classical works than you would see, say, in London.

Cultural & Educational Centres The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun. British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute QLeninsky pr. 95a, MLeninsky Prospect, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de. Le Centre culturel Francais QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 78, www.ccf-moscou.ru. Open 09:30 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Expat Contacts AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org. Allianz ROSNO Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com. American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. EXPATinRUSSIA Q www.expatinrussia.com. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations Qwww.internations.org/expats/home/russia/moscow. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

International Schools Atlantic International School QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Atlantic International School, Skolkovo QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British International School QUl. Bol. Akademicheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya Ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 971 86 26, www.mosmontessori.ru. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The Anglo-American School of Moscow QUl. Beregovaya 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, admissions@aas.ru, www.aas.ru. School hours 08:30 15:30. The English International School QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 726 31 46, www.englishedmoscow.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The International School of Moscow QUl. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

internationAL Women‘s club Professional Women’s Evening Summer has finally arrived in Moscow! In June, the International Women’s Club of Moscow’s 35th anniversary season draws to a close. What a wonderful year it has been for them and their members with lots of special events and treats! For those staying in the city over the summer break they have a great offer to enjoy the hot and sunny months in Moscow without getting bored: the IWC summer trips. Happening during June to August they will take you to interesting, worthwhile cultural and historical sights in and around the city. Last year, for instance, they went to famous composer Tchaikovsky’s and well-known writers Tolstoy’s and Tchekhov’s houses, to name just two highlights. Learn all about the upcoming trips by checking the website www.iwcmoscow.ru or Facebook page www.facebook.com/ IWCMoscow in due time! Contact: iwcgeneralofficer@gmail.com

Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com 56 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

Maps

Expat & Lifestyle russian for expats Ничего – Ничего means, at its most basic, “nothing”. You can use it in any context in its most literal sense but there’s more to it than just that. If your girlfriend asks you what you think of her dress, you can reply with ничего, not meaning that you don’t think anything of it, but that you feel positively towards it. If you want to tell your girlfriend not to worry, because obviously she looks lovely, you can say ничего ничего, to mean “don’t worry.” You can also use ничего when someone steps on your foot in the metro; if they apologise and you want to say “that’s ok”, simply reply with ничего. If you want to be very English and reply to “как дела” with “fine”, just use your new favourite word: ничего.

Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-and-Paul’s cathedral

Religious Services Liden & Denz QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. www.internations.org.

US Dental Care Well-established and longrespected American Boardcertified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services, extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. They have depth of a full service clinic and atmosphere of a small family practice. Q C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PAW 58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru. Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. Moscow International Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2014

KOL PAC HNY PE

PER.

YAUZS KY BUL. POKRO VSKY B UL.

7 ARKH ANG ELS KY PE R.

SV ER CH K 6 OV PE R.

M YA SN ITS KA YA 5 UL .

BASM AN

KALAN CHEVSK AYA U L.

OR LIK OV

PE R.

SA KH AR OV AP R.

UL AN SK YP ER . AK AD 7 41 EM IKA

KOSTYANS KY PER.

R. PEV CHE SKY PE

SRETENKA UL.

KOPTELSKY PE R.

BO 2 L. SPAS SKA 4 YA UL .

(1Y)

MILYUTINSKY PER.

UL. MAL. LU BYANKA

KITAYGO RODSKY PER.

UST YIN SKY PR.

MANEZ HNAYA UL.

TRUB NAYA UL.

UL . 13

MOH OVAY A UL.

VO LH ON KA UL .

NS KY PER . MA L. Z NA ME

OK HO TN YR YA D

TS KY PE R.

NI KI

GA ZE TN YP ER . R.

ROM ANO V PE

BO L. BR ON NA TVE 17 YA RSK UL OY 23 . BUL . 20 TVE RSK OY BUL L . 10 EON M TIE AL VOZ .G VS NES KY NE ENS P Z KY P DI ER 19 ER. KO . VS 2 KY PE 7 BR R. YU 22 SO V 6 PER .

BO L.P AT RIA RS HY PE R.

NI KO L 4 SKAY AU L.

CH AY AN OV A

UL .G AS HE KA BO L. S AD 3 OV AY A 10 UL.

SADO VAYA -KUD 9 RINS 3 KAYA UL. VSPOLN 21 Y PER.

BOL . LU BYA NKA UL.

UL .

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

BOLSHOY

NIK OLO YAM 11 SKA YA 12 UL.

3 16

June - July 2014

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSK Y PER. 29 GOGOLEVSK Y BUL.

5 11 AB. KAYA N NICHES YA BR SERE NAB. OVSKAYA BERNIK 2

Z YAU

Y PER. STAROKONYUSHENN

OLE VO P NTSO 8 VORO 4

SKY PER.

CHKALOVS

VERK HNY AYA

BOL. KISLO VSKY PER.

VA SIL YE VS KA UL YA .Y UL UL IU . SA FU CH IKA

BO L. G RU ZIN SKA YA UL .

ZO OL OG ICH ESK 20 AY AU L.

28 ER 5 M OLA 9 EVSK

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH EVS KY P ER.

TRUBNIKOVS KY PE

UL.

VAL ANOY ZEMLY

KUR VOK

NOVINSKY BUL.

KURSKAYA

. ER ER. YP IN P SK LYAL EN OS DS PO

NY PE PODKOLOKOL 12

DU RAS OV SKY PER .

RAU SHSK AYA NAB . 16

SAD OVN ICH 18 ESKAY 13 AU

O TS OL EK 4 VO 1 DO SA

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket 6

G UL BALCHU

moscow.inyourpocket.com

AB. KAYA N SOFIYS30

. UL

5 Y PER. AZENN BOL. K

MOS KVOR ETSK AYA N AB.

BOLSHOY ZAMOSKVORETSKY MOST

AB. AYA N LEVSK KREM

KA Z

ER. YP EN 22 ARM Z A K 6

KA AN LY SO

BOROVITSKAYA

VARVARKA UL.

VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL.

STAROSADSKY PER.

KITAY GOROD

15 AS AB AY AR OR T S 14 O

2 L. 8 AU 4 VK O KR PO

7 KY S OV KHL O H K

3 2

15 NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.

SQ UA RE )

L. AP AY AR ST

9 L. U KA 10 ILIN 6

. PER NY

KITAY GOROD

R. PE 15

L KA U ROV 4 POK 2

R. Y PE VSK NYE O T 3 I 4 R 1 HA 2 .K 15 R. BOL E YP 12 NN MA 11 R FU L. AU V O HK S A 3 M

KY NS YA M AR

9 . R PE SKY 12 HEV ISHC GLIN 3 . SPASO 6 L BO

(R ED

DA BO SLO YA NA D O OR OG

NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. 4

KRASNYE VOROTA

L. AU IN LYG AP . CH UL O OG SK OV UK ZH

. PER SKY TIN US 1 LATO L. Z 13 BO 2 ZD 11 ROE YP SK AN . BY PL LU

BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

VE TO SH NY PE R.

NS KY PE R.

SRETENSKY BULVAR

MAROSEYKA UL.

. 6 PER SKY YEV IPAT ER. KY P OLS 6 NIK 4 3 . ER YP BN RY

KR AS NA YA PL .

BO GO YA VL E

YA VA NO

PLOSHCHAD REVOLUTSII

. PER KY ASS 6 ERK CH

TEATRALNAYA

OKHOTNY RYAD

UL .

LUBYANKA

L. BO 4

LUBYANKA

Y SK IEV 1 RG O GE

SA D 18 OVA YA -SP AS SK AY AU L.

BO GU . BR OV PSEYRA TN P 8 ER. CHISTYE PRUDY IKO VP ER 2 . CH IST OP RU DN YB UL 3 . R . PE Y N EN 2 L O 1 K O IV 3 KR 4 3 8 3 6 2

2 EZD Y PRO RALN TEAT 4

R. PE

KAZANSKY VOKZAL

. 5 SKY PER V PO TA PO

PUSHECHNAYA UL. 5

KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL.

. UL AY SK NIT S 0 A MY 4

KUZNETSKY MOST

KOMSOMOLSKAYA

ROZHDESTVENKA UL.

UL.

SK AY AU L.

NA UD PR O N AS KR

YAROSLAVSKY VOKZAL

R. Y PE VSK 10 ZLO . KO BOL 4 R. PE SKY YEV ON RIT HA L. K MA

TURGENEVSKAYA

3 VARSONOF YEVSKY PE 2 R. 6

1 KUZNET 9 SKY MO ST

UL.

KON YUSH KOV SKAY A UL

RA PROSPEKT MI

UL. GILYAROVSKOGO

SHCHEPKINA UL.

MESHCHANSKAYA UL.

A UL NAY TRUB

NEGLINNAYA

UL. 5

3 19

BUL. TSVETNOY

16 UL. VKA RO PET 14

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

30 PER. VRAZHEK SIVTSEV

60 Moscow In Your Pocket

. UL

11 BOL. KISE LNY PER.

MANEZHNAYA PL.

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

28 4

. PER KOV TNI PLO

SMOLENSKAYA

ARBATSKAYA

AT 28 ARB 38

. PER SKY NIT A M KAR

VOZDVIZH ENKA

RAKHM ANOVSK Y PER.

. UL

L. AYA U ORSK POZIT KOM 25

BO L. N IKI 6 TSK AYA

OCHNY PER. ROT 8

NOVY ARBAT UL. 17

R. PE

BOL. MOLCH ANOVKA UL.

KH L EB 8 NY PE R. 14

PER. PECHATNIKOV

ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.

SELIVERSTOV PER.

MAL. G OLOVIN PER. PROS VIRIN PER. LUKO V PER . ASHC HEU LOV PER. RYBNIK OV PER 1 SRETENSKY BUL. .

PER. BOL. SERGIEVSKY KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.

TRUBNAYA

. 4 PER KY ERS ERG M KA

26 OVKA TR MI L. D BO

PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA 2 6

POSLEDNY PER. BOL. GOLOVIN PER. PUSHKAREV PER.

LENINGRADSKY VOKZAL

2 DOK UC HA 13 E 10 V PE R. SKO RN YA ZH NY PE R. BO L. S UK HA REV K 10 AYA P L.

SUKHAREVSKAYA

DAEV PER.

EMaps

UL. BOL. SPASSKAYA

SRETENSK Y TUPIK

13 BOL. BALKANSKY PER.

GROKHOLSKY PER.

BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.

. PER OV NIK ESH L O ST

. UL

A AY SK ER 12 TV

SKA TER TNY PER .

UL .

Y SK OV TR PE

MAL . NIK 16 ITSK AYA UL. 13 BOL. N IKITSKA YA UL.

. PER NY ASH KAL L. Y BU ITSK ER. NIK KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

4 PO 6 VA RS KA YA

GRA NAT NY P E

UL.

PETR OVSK Y BUL

MAL. SU 3 1 KHAREV SKAYA PL .

1-Y KOLOBO VSKY PER

I SP

TSVETNOY BULVAR

SREDNY KARETNY PER.

UL.

A NAY RON L. B MA

PRESNENSKAYA

. UL KA OV ON ID IR SP

BARRIKADNAYA

R. PE NY UD PR KH YO TR R. PE KY INS IKH OZ L. K BO

. ER YP

PER.

L. AU IN AS KR

TROITSKAYA UL.

7 SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.

TNY KARE BOL.

VKA ITRO . DM MAL

. PER SKY OV 5 EN M KY PER. PI USPENS10 MAYAKOVSKAYA RO . A R PE 4 ST RNY YA TV GT ER DE SK AY . A UL PER L. . SKY BU 12 NOY YIN T AS S T A S STR NA L. AP AY SK . N PUSHKINSKAYA I R K PE SH Y PU CHEKHOVSKAYA Y PE INSK SK R. ZIKH R. O V K PE L. HE R. KY AS TVERSKAYA MA PE ITS AL KY OZ S .P K L TIN BO SY . ER P KY VS YE ON RID

TRIUMFALNAYA PL.

2 3

R. LIKHOV PE D YA YR TN RE . KA UL

MAYAKOVSKAYA

1-Y VOL KONSK Y PER.

PER.

UL .

PROSPEKT MIRA

LAVRSKY PER.

L 9 DE 1 43 UL. YA E KOLTSO NA SADOVO RET SADOVAYA-KA 20 12 . L. PER YA U INY LNA ZHE MFA IU R ORU YA-T OVA SAD MAL. KARETNY PER.

. UL 5 AYA K S AT EG

Y PR. PIYSK OLYM

VA UL .

L. AU IN AS KR

PER.

4-Y AT VE RS KA YA -YA M SK AY A

DUR OVA UL

A UL. OCHNAY SAMOTY

FA DE E

UL AYA VSK UKO GOR DOL 23

BELORUSSKAYA

ZAL

3-Y A TV NE 2-Y ER VS KO SK 1-Y A TV GO AY A E R A TV UL -YA 1-Y ER SKA . M AB YA SK SK -YA AY RE 2-Y A AYA ST M AB Y SK AM SKA UL RE AY . Y SK ST AU AY A U SK L. AY A U L. AU L. L.

BELORUSSKAYA

XA ND RA

1-Y SA MOTE CHNY PER.

L. AU KAY ARS L ET PRO SNO KRA

AL E

C 20

MI US SK AY AP L.

LE SN AY A

PR .

NOVOSLOBODSKAYA

VASNETSOVA

UL .

Maps

GR AD SK Y

RK HN YA YA KR AS NO SE L

61 33

PER.

YAUZS KY BUL. POKRO VSKY B UL.

R. PEV CHE SKY PE

KITAYGO RODSKY PER.

SADOVOE KOLTSO

UST YIN SKY PR.

22 NA RO SA DN DO AYA VO UL. 50 EK OL TS O

M SK AY AU L.

NI ZH NA YA KR AS NO KH OL

PAVELETSKY VOKZAL

13 18 . PER

5 . PER KY ITS

UL.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

PAVELETSKAYA

2 LYUSIN OVSK AYA U L

KY ASS OSP NOV 9

NOVOSPASSKY KRUT 3-Y MOST

B. NA YA KA ITS UT KR

DUBININSKAYA UL.

1-Y DOBRYNINSKY PER.

PRO EZD

MAL.PO LYANKA UL.

MAL. ORDYNKA UL.

BOL. ORDYNKA UL.

26 . YAK IMA NKA 24 29 25 UL.

32 BOL 39 43

PYATNITS KAYA

2-Y KAZACHY PER.

18 1

YAK IMA NSK Y

KUR SOV OY P E 15

BU TIK OV SKY PE R.

BO LO TN YA AY 1-Y KIM AN 5 GO AB 4 ANS LU . TV K A I YA 3 NSKY NA PE B . R. 22 KAZAN SKY PE R.

NA B. PR EC HIS TE 45 NS KA YA

MAR O 3 NOVSKY PER. 6

SA DO VN ICH 22 ES KY PR OE ZD

VO LH ON KA UL .

NS KY PER . MA L. Z NA ME

BOL . ZN AME NSK Y PE

OS TO ZH EN K 17 A U L.

BERSENEV SKAYA NA B. 12

MANEZ HNAYA UL.

MOH OVAY A UL.

41 33 BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSK Y PER. 29 GOGOLEVSK Y BUL.

Y PER. STAROKONYUSHENN

MAL. VLASYEVSKY PER.

BOL. V LASYE VSKY PER.

OK H 13

ROM ANO V PE

BOL. KISLO VSKY PER.

TRUBNIKOVS KY PE

NOVINSKY BUL.

BO L. RZ HE VSK Y PER . M AL. RZH E

TAG AN

PU SH KIN SKA YA NA B.

82 . NAB AYA VSK RKO OZE

BOLSHOY KRASNOKHOLMSKY MOST

KOZ HE 7 6 VNICH ESK AY 16 A UL.

Z SOL

MARKSISTSKAYA

3 DRA XAN ALE 4

YA KA 14 TS SIS 15 YA UL. 18 RK KA MA 4 OVS NTS 7 VORO 6 9 IKI HCH ENS KAM 6 7 SHIE BOL UL.

MARKSISTSKAYA

TAGANSKAYA

AB. AYA N HARN GONC

71 75

4 FR UN ZEN SKA YA NA B.

35 UL. AYA 23 HARN NC GO 26

9 4

ER. KY P HES LNIC E T KO

Y PE ARN NCH GO 2-Y

ER RIV

UL. ESKAY VNICH SADO 71 66

5-Y

32 73

RK HN YA YA RA DI SH CH 15 EV SK AY AU L.

UL.

AYA ZSK YAU

HIKH A UL. 20

OW SC MO

7 L. YA U RSKA TATA14

39 .

13 15 SKY PER. CHENOV BOL. STRO 2 1

29 .

L YA U TSKA 31 OKUZNE6 3 NOV 17

17 IKOVSKY PER. 3-Y MONETCH

UL INA 21 KHRUSH BA 20

NIK OLO YAM 11 SKA YA 12 UL.

3 PAVELETSKAYA PL.

3 16

SH LYU ZO VAY AN AB .

PAVELETSKAYA

18 UL. VALOVAYA

B. 17 B. NA NA YA YA SKA SKA IAN HE AM NIC OD TEL SM KO KO

10 PER. YANNY STREM

ER. KY P ARS TAT . L BO

16 PER. OVSKY 20 NETCHIK 5-Y MO11

. UL

. PER SKY OV 15 YAK N H VIS 23

TETERIN SKY PER. 2 14

UL. AYA 29 TARSK . TA BOL

EPA UL. ZATS 19

. ER R. YP SK EN OS DS

KA AN LY SO 39

GOLIKOVSKY

5 11 AB. KAYA N NICHES YA BR SERE NAB. OVSKAYA BERNIK 2

1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.

. NAB 14 AYA VSK RKO 8 OZE

moscow.inyourpocket.com

YA UL. OVSKA RPUKH14 BOL. SE 8 15

DOBRYNINSKAYA

11 L. AU 5 NITSKAY 12 T 6 PYA

APAKOVA PR.

6 8

10 1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. 13 R. 25 Y PE ETSK UZN 2-Y NO VOK

2-Y MON ETCHIKOV SKY PER.

ZHITNAYA UL. SADOVOE KOLTSO L UL. KOROVY VA5 3

. PER 16 OVSKY 9 RK OZE

8 ER. KY P EVS ACH M L 9 O RY T STA

OKTYABRSKAYA

. Y PER RELSK POGO

64 72 63 A NK LYA 58 PO L. 53 . BO 6 UL 5

UL. MYTNAYA

62 Moscow In Your Pocket

. PR KY NS I N LE

PER.

4 PER. 16 VSKY 2-Y SPASONALIVKO

PER.

6 1-Y KAZACHY PER.

1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.

OKTYABRSKAYA

POLYANKA

16 1-Y SPAS 4 19 ONALIVKOVSKY

VA L.

GORKY PARK PIER

. 10 ER KOV P BRODNI

KRY MS KY

6 ER. VSKY P PYZHE 5

CHKALOVS

VERK HNY AYA

OLE VO P NTSO 8 VORO 4

. PER SKY IAT SAR S I M KO

ER. KY P OVS RUN 13

NOVOKUZNETSKAYA

KRYMSKY MOST

14 10 KLIMENTOVSKY PER. OLMACHEVSKY PER. BOL. T TRETYAKOVSKAYA

R VE

BOLSHOY USTYINSKY MOST

OVCH INNIK OVSKA YA NA 6 B.

MALY KAMENNY MOST

PATRIARSHY MOST

MOLOCHNY PER. KO RO BE YN KH 3 IK OV ILK OV 11 PE R. PE R. 9 1 B. NA YA KA S . EN AB ST HI AN EC AY PR SK YM KR

NY PE PODKOLOKOL 12

. AB 2 AN 3 LUZHKOV AY . MOST EVSK B A SH AN DA KA AY TN LO O B 5 10

SAD OVN ICH 18 ESKAY 13 AU L.

. PL YA NA T LO BO

NO VO KR YM SK PARK KULTURY YP KR YM R. SKY PRO EZD

BOLSHOY KAMENNY MOST

G UL. BALCHU

RAU SHSK AYA NAB . 16

R. PE KY NS KI OT OP KR

VP ER .

AB. KAYA N SOFIYS30

S 1 OYM ON OV 12 5 SKY P 11 RO EZ 1 D 2 2 15 -Y O 3 BY DE 12 N SK 4 PO YP 13ZHA 8 ER RS . KY 1 1-Y 10 PE R ZA . CH AT YE 5 VS KY 13PER 4 .

DU RAS OV SKY PER .

MOS KVOR ETSK AYA N AB.

BOLSHOY ZAMOSKVORETSKY MOST

AB. AYA N LEVSK KREM

18 . UL KA ESN 28 HIST ECH EN EC OV PR SK YP 21 ER .

PO ME RA NT SE

BOROVITSKAYA

ER. KY P EVS ASH KAD . 1-Y PER SKY 27 HIN R. Y PE RUS N T 32 LAV ONE ROM . . STA 25 A UL. PER 6 BOL TNY NK LYA ONE . PO 20 ROM BOL 7 STA 24 3 4 22 UL. 2 NKA IMA . YAK MAL

4 R. PE KY NS

6-8

KI OP ER 11

22 ENKO UL

22 L KY BU LENS SMO

PA 10 LIM 15 OVSK 4 Y PER. 9

KY INS SH EV 11 L. L O B 25

6 R. PE

8 CHI STY PE

KROPOTKINSKAYA

10 PER. VSKY GLAZO 9

10-12 GAGARINSKY PER.

PRECH ISTEN S 7 KY PER.

4 PER. EINY RUZH22

KITAY GOROD

VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL.

30 PER. VRAZHEK SIVTSEV

Maps

7 KY S OV KHL KHO

VARVARKA UL.

3 19

ER. YP EN 22 RM A Z KA 6

ZN 10 AM EN KA U 13 L.

. UL

PER. ZHNY DENE

YA UL. 7

ALEXANDROVSKY SAD

. PER KOV TNI PLO

SMOLENSKAYA

BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA

ARBATSKAYA

AT 28 ARB

. PER SKY NIT A M KAR

UL. 5

SQ UA RE )

STAROSADSKY PER.

(R ED

L. AYA U ORSK POZIT KOM 25

VOZDVIZH ENKA

9 L. U KA 10 ILIN 6

OCHNY PER. ROT 8

NOVY ARBAT UL. 17

9 . R PE SKY 12 HEV ISHC GLIN 3 . SPASO 6 L BO

KR AS NA YA PL .

NS KY PE R.

KITAY GOROD

L. AP AY AR ST

VE TO SH NY PE R.

OKHOTNY RYAD

UL .

BO GO YA VL E

BOL. MOLCH ANOVKA UL.

BO L. N IKI 6 TSK AYA

PLOSHCHAD REVOLUTSII

MANEZHNAYA PL.

. 6 PER SKY YEV IPAT ER. KY P OLS 6 NIK 4 3 . ER YP BN RY

KH L EB 8 NY PE R. 14

. PER KY ASS 6

Maps

PER .

ER. YP HN LAS L. Y BU ITSK ER. KY P OVS YAK RZL ME

UL .

June - July 2014

St. Petersburg

Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.

A-1/2 D-1/2 А/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4

64 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.

C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4

Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4

C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2

Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Cruiser Avrora QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Kazan Cathedral QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian Museum QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

June - July 2014

St. Petersburg HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. hhhhh W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. hhhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. hhhh AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh

getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 65), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport. 66 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com