St. Petersburg In Your Pocket December 2013-January 2014 by Russia In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. petersburg December 2013 - January 2014

Winter Holidays Fortune Telling & Father Frost

Celebration!

Ten years of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

December 2013 - January 2014 No92 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

*According to the Association of Small Hotels of St. Petersburg

Contents Restaurants

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Shopping

What to buy and where

Expat and Lifestyle 50 Expat experience, religious services and more Getting around

8 11

Features 10 years Russia In Your Pocket Winter holidays

14 17

Hotels

20 25

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Culture and Events

Best business lunches in town

39 42 46

Some useful information Concerts Hermitage 20/21

Nightlife

Further afield

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in the city

Basics and Language

26 36 38

A word from our publisher

News

Beer restaurants Vasilievsky Island Bars, pubs and clubs

Contents Foreword

Transport, tickets and more 53 Maps 54

Russia Moscow Veliky Novgorod Sochi Petrozavodsk Kostroma

58 59 61 62 64 66

December 2013 - January 2014

news

Foreword Happy faces on the cover, surrounded by an enchanting selection of the best pictures of St. Petersburg we have used for our covers over the past 10 years. Yes you read right – and might have noticed already – we are celebrating our 10th anniversary this very moment! Needless to say this was a very special issue with many great memories coming to mind. Doing everything for the first time – opening a Russian OOO, finding staff, travelling to the Petro Elektro Sbit (петроэлектросбыт) office to pay the bills, making arrangements with Lenizdat; the printing house that printed our very first issue and finding drivers to roam the city and make sure every single foreigner got a copy of the very first St. Petersburg In Your Pocket. The weeks before the first deadline are a sweet memory. In order to get every single restaurant in the city covered we went to dinner every evening. How happy I was when the first issue was released and we could finally enjoy a home cooked meal again. Going out for dinner I would describe as both a hobby and specialty, but going out every evening makes you long for a home cooked meal! There were the days I ploughed through the snow, worrying about getting my boots dirty before visiting one of the respectable hotels in town, the very first sales meeting, the first employee. I can go on and on and it is impossible to share all our great memories with you but some of our former editors have been kind enough to share their fondest memories of the city and their work for St. Petersburg In Your Pocket on pages 14-16. From pioneers in business we grew to the main publisher of tourism information in English for Russia with our pride being adding Moscow to our print guides in 2008. Since then we have added 17 cities to our online resources having added five more cities in the past year. We have grown with the market and hope to continue doing so; Russia’s tourism potential is enormous and we will do our utmost to inform foreigners about the great opportunities here, whether they are here for business, as a tourist or moving to Russia as expats. Thanks to our great team and all the people who help us make it a success! Happy holidays and see you in 2014!

Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

Estonia

Ireland

Russia

Latvia Lithuania Belarus

Netherlands Poland Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania

Georgia

FYR Macedonia

Greece

It’s now nearly 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent, and we will be expanding even further in 2014 with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg in South Africa: our first guide outside Europe. What‘s more, early in 2014 our already terrific guides will be getting a fresh new look, designed to offer our readers a better experience. The roll-out of this new look begins in February. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Bonnie van der Velde, Russia In Your Pocket

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No92, 01.12.2013, 90.000 copies © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl For children aged 16 years and over.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editors Ksenia Elzes, editor.spb@inyourpocket.com Peter Campbell, editor.russia@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research research.spb@inyourpocket.com PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No92. 01.12.2013 Для детей старше 16 лет.

Commercial department

Sales Managers Ilya Timshin ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Art Square Festival

New Year Christmas Charity fair

This year's Ar ts Square festival celebrates the life and work of one of Russia's leading conductors, Yur y Temirkanov. Temirkanov founded the festi val and is the ar tistic director of Russia’s first philharmonic orchestra. This year is a double celebration for the maestro who turns 75 this year and has been the head of the Russian Academic Orchestra for 25 years. The festival will become a true celebration of the conductor’s work and leading musicians from the world of music, many of whom are the conductor’s personal friends, will be participating in this celebration of music and life. The festival will open with a gala concert conducted by Mariss Jansons and Nikolai Alekseev. The festival will also have a jazz programme which will star a performance by Denis Matsuev, who has a close creative link with the distinguished conductor. Other major artists to pay tribute to the Temirkanov include Nikolai Lugansky and Vadim Rudenko. The Mariinsky Theatre’s charismatic Artistic Director and Conductor Valery Girgiev will perform with the Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra which was headed by Yury Temirkanov in 1976-1988. Pinchas Zukerman will appear as conductor and soloist with the London Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, where the hero of the day was the principal conductor from 1992 to 1998. Temirkanov himself will take up the baton with the Academic Symphony Orchestra, which he headed in 1968-1976, while the audience will be treated to some of his favourite pieces including the second act of Eugene Onegin and The Nutcracker Suite. www.philharmonia.spb.ru

Are you ready for Christmas and the New Year? On 16-22 December each year a Christmas/New Year Fair is held at Bolshaya Pushkarskaya ul. 10 at Legko-Legko. Masters from all over the city, who are not only able to make wonderful gifts but love to do good as well, gather together. For children and adults there are a series of master classes for making gingerbread, Christmas tree decorations, bouquets, dolls, stuffed toys and other beautiful items which will warm your soul during the Christmas and New Year period. The children will see a good show. There will also be an exhibition and sale section where you can buy presents for your loved ones and help children with cancer as a large part of the money raised by the fair goes to the AdVita Foundation which has been helping adults and children with cancer since 2002. Here you can purchase wonderful souvenirs with paintings from the the foundation. Children’s fantasy knows no limits and it is this free spirit which is so helpful to children suffering from cancer. A child might draw a picture of flying animals or an amusing little person. It is the dream, love, joy of creativity that enables them to raise their spirits. Based on their pictures volunteer artists also make cartoons, the images are printed on mugs, t-shirts, stationary, fridge magnets and many other wonderful things. The funds raised from these souvenirs go towards medicine for the foundation’s wards. You can participate in a master-class, buy a toy and help save a life. It turns out that doing a good deed and helping is easy! www.legko-legko.ru

Pulkovo 3 St. Petersburg’s long awaited, redeveloped international airport opened on 29 November. A number of new facilities have been built as part of the first phase, including the main building of the new central passenger terminal and North Pier. With the new terminal open it will be able to welcome 18 million passengers compared to the 14 million it currently can now. When fully completed the terminal include a hotel, business centre, 108 border control booths, 88 check-in desks and 28 gates. Retail space is also a key part of the project with 30 units being built as well as 14 food and beverage outlets including fast food, coffee shops and casual dining to give passengers a choice of Russian and international brands. The airport was designed by Grimshaw Architects and SFMM are the executive architect, with construction being completed by Turkish firm ICA Construction and is the first ‘green’ building in the city. The innovative design features islands, bridges and other aspects synonymous with St. Petersburg. www. pulkovoairport.ru

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

In Your Pocket Is The Best! We are proud to announce that St. Petersburg In Your Pocket has been awarded first place for the Best Periodical Publication in Tourism by the St. Petersburg Hospitality Awards 2013, organized by the Association of Small Hotels of St. Petersburg! Travelling is always better if you have a guide to point out interesting places, explains the culture to you, the historical context surrounding what you are seeing and of course, tells you about the best cultural performances and exhibitions. This is the task St. Petersburg In Your Pocket has been doing and the chances are that if you are reading this you are likely to agree that In Your Pocket is a great guide. On behalf of the entire team at In Your Pocket we would like to thank everyone who plays a part in making this publication the best in St. Petersburg. We live in a great city surrounded by great people, without the ongoing cultural events, the active nightlife, the history we couldn’t make this magazine as good as it is. Finally, without YOU, the reader, we couldn’t do it. In Your Pocket would like to thank you for your support and wish you a fantastic festive season and happy travels.

December 2013 - January 2014

Basics AND LANGUAGE

Be on guard!

Useful Phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky русски Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Pocket dictionary: Sanki In the depths of Russian winter when the blizzards get heavier and the snow drifts deeper you may occasionally see locals out dragging their smallest children along home on sanki (sledges) - quite frankly in that kind of weather a regular detskaya kolyaska (baby stroller) just doesn’t cut it. Sanki of course can also be typically seen in the park, whether being pulled along by a horse - and sometimes even a troika of three horses, or ridden down hills by energetic kids.

Health and Safety

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.

Climate Winters in Russia are notorious – they’ve defeated both the armies of Hitler and Napoleon. In December the temperatures begin to drop, but there can still be wet days, whereas January is usually the coldest month and the city will be blanketed in snow. Time to wrap up warm!

Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Bridges Opening Schedule Bridge Dvortsovy Blagoveshchensky Sampsonievsky Grenadersky Kantemirovsky Troitsky Liteiny Birzhevoy Tutchkov Bolsheokhtinsky Volodarsky Alexandra Nevskogo Finlyandsky

Drawing 1:05 - 4:50 1:25 - 2:45, 2:10 - 2:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 - 5:10 2:20 - 5:30

3:10 - 5:00 3:30 - 4:25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50

3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40

dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok

50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi

In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, пожалуйста I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!

Alphabet

December 2013 - January 2014

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Concert Halls and Clubs Club A2 B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Bronnitskaya ul., 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Grand Philharmonic Hall D-2, Mikhailovskaya ul., 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Saint Petersburg Opera C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru Sport Concert Complex Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru

Theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy D-3, Italyanskaya ul., 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

Theatre With Subtitles It is considered to be one of the best theatres in the city, the Small Drama Theatre or European Theatre at Ul. Rubinsteina 18. Conveniently located in the city centre it offers all of its Russian plays with English subtitles. This way it is possible for visitors to see and hear some of Russia’s most famous plays with actual Russian actors in the original language while still understanding what it’s about. December 2013 and January 2014 see some of Anton Chekhov’s renowned pieces being put to stage. The Three Sisters (01.12, 04.01) and Uncle Vanya (15.12, 06.01) come highly recommended here and are almost as much of a must-see as Swan Lake in the Mariinsky Theater. Another masterpiece to pay attention to is Vasily Grossman’s magnum opus Life and Fate (04.12), which has been described as the best Russian novel of the 20th century and compared it with Tolstoy’s War and Peace. It is a highly critical account of Soviet life under Stalin. Grossman’s novel – finished in 1960 – could not be published for at least 200 years he was told by the authorities. Under Gorbachev it was in 1988. Ul. Rubinshteina 18, MDostoevskaya. w w w. mdt-dodin.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

December events 05.12 Thursday

20:00 Eric Lévi: Era

E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. era.artiste.universalmusic.fr. Eric Levi brings his original electronica show to St. Petersburg. Levi, rated as the ‘most amazing heretic‘, promises three hours of rapture. His music incorporates sounds of nature and the hypnotic monastic chants from the 13th century. Levi was the first to introduce catholic chants to rock, creating an entirely new genre. His show attempts to create the experience of visiting the Vatican and Woodstock simultaneously. While trancing out to the electronic beat you will be transported back to an age where people heard the voices of angels and saw the Virgin Mary. His music promises to ‘show you the sun at night‘. Q Ticekts 1,000 - 4,500Rbl.

05.12 Thursday

20:00 The Cardigans

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. cardigans.com. The most successful Swedish popgroup since Abba, The Cardigans is visiting St. Petersburg for a long awaited concert. The group was formed back in 1992. The band‘s style changes from album to album having gone from early indi-experiments to pop-music with a 60s‘ feel. Their first album Emmerdale in 1994 led immediately to a European tour. Their second album Life was released in 1995 and won them international fame with over a million copies being sold. The group won a Grammy for Loosing My Favourite Game, while the single Lovefool was included in the soundtrack for Baz Luhrmann‘s Romeo+Juliet starring Leonardo DiCaprio. Since 2005 the group has taken an extensive break but returned reinvigorated in 2012. Q Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl.

08.12 Sunday

20:00 About three airs

Skorohod, Moskovsky pr. 107/5, M Moskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 987 66 90, w w w.skorohod. me. About Three Airs is an innovati ve con temporar y dance per formance which is a c ol our ful sp e c ta cl e wi th ama zin g costum es, astonishin g dan cin g an d emotional ch oreograph y. The performance tells the tale of three ethereal beings. It was first created in 2007 by South Korean choreographer Park Na Hoon whose work seeks to find the truth, hidden inside objects and existing within the reality of our lives. In explaining his masterpiece Hoon said: “There are moments that touch your heart so powerfully that they seem more significant and more than real. This is the case with these strange beings that are more real than reality for me, although their existence is completely unreal”. With such a powerful perception of his creation About Three Airs is sure to astound audiences. Q Tickets 500Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

11.12 Wednesday

20:00 Woodkid

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. woodkid.com. A year after his successful appearance in Russia, Woodkid is returning to support his new album The Golden Age. The artist will be performing in St. Petersburg for the first time with a new set and stunning HD video series specially designed for the concert‘s tour. The Golden Age has silenced sceptics who doubted the musical talent of this artist whose interests include painting, sculpture, photography, directing, choreography and filming music clips for leading international performers. The album reached the top of the iTunes‘ lists in most European countries, taking the top place in Russia. The concert will include a light show with video installations made by Woodkid himself, making the imagery as important as the music. Q Tickets 1,700 - 3,700Rbl.

12.12 Thursday

19:30 Natalia Oreiro

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.nataliaoreiro. com. Uruguayan actress and singer Natalia Oreiro could h ave b e en a ward e d th e Peoples‘ Artist title a long time ago. For more than a decade the South American beauty has been the main star in the lives of Russian schoolgirls, students and housewi ves. Star ting her career in soaps the actress went on to release her first album in 1998 and following its release in Argentina became an international star. The success of her second album led to tours around South America, USA, Spain, and Eastern Europe, and even led to a Kremlin performance. Her third album Turmalina sold 1.5 million copies. Subsequent tours have led to sell out audiences. While continuing her acting career, the performer continues to receive invitations to perform in Russia alongside other favourite singers from the 1990s. Q Tickets 1,750 - 4,000Rbl.

14.12 Saturday

19:00 Vanessa Mae

E-3, Oktyabr sky Grand Concer t Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www.vanessamae. com. The British pop violinist brings her crossover classical hits to Russia yet again this winter. Her selfdescrib ed ‘violin technoacoustic fusion‘ may not be for purists but her showmanship and energy is in no doubt. As well as touring the world with her violin Vanessa also likes to spend a lot of the time on the slopes and plans to represent Thailand in the Sochi 2014 Winter Olympics. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,500Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Daniel Smith 19.12 Thursday

19:00 Daniel Smith

C-3, Mariinsky Concer t Hall, ul. Dekabristov 37, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.danielsmithonline.com. Mariinsky Theatre Artistic Director Valer y Gorgiev invited the famous Australian conductor to conduct George Gershwin‘s Porgy and Bess with the Mariinsky Theatre Symphony Orchestra and Choir. The young Australian conductor is considered one of the shining lights for the next generation of conducting and was taught by Jorma Panula (Finland), Neeme Järvi and Paavo Järvi (Estonia). The Australian has also studied in Salzburg under Peter Gülke. Having made his debut in Nice in 2011, Smith has won numerous awards and prizes including Orchestra‘s Choice, Orpheus Prizes at the Fitelberg International Conducting Competition in 2012 and was runner-up for the prestigious Sir Georg Solti Competition. Over the past year the conductor has divided his time between engagements in Rome and Sydney. He has conducted the Frankfurt Radio Symphony Orchestra, Danish National Orchestra, Romanian National Symphony Orchestra and at festivals in the USA, Europe and Australia, including Mozarteum Festspiele, Järvi Summer Festival, Estate Musicale Chigiana, Aspen Music Festival and the Sydney Olympic Arts Festival.

Buying Concert Tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and also sell tickets online. There are also online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets. Kassir.ru The only website that offers their event listings in English. Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian.

15.12 Sunday

19:00 Leningrad

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sosimc.ru/. Leningrad continues to be scandalous and well loved. The unusual rock group is calling together the entire city to meet on 15 December for a celebration but what they are celebrating is being kept a closely guarded secret. All that is known is that it should be a great time with plenty of surprises. A Leningrad concert is always a great experience! Leningrad‘s lyrics readily come to the mind of any Russian. Their social commentary raise important questions and the clear lyrics, mix irony with a little black humour, making the band a timeless reflection of Russian society. Each new composition is a powerful social statement with a little vulgarity in each line. Q Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.

December 2013 - January 2014

Culture & Events Dralion. Cirque du Soleil

22.01 Wednesday - 02.02 Sunday

Dralion. Cirque du Soleil

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, www.cds.ru. Dralion combines the styles and genres of cultural tradition from around the world which is such an inherent part of Cirque du Soleil. The name of the show comes from mixing the symbols of two beasts: the dragon of the East and the Lion symbolising the West. The Dralion combines two cultures, uniting people to achieve harmony. In Dralion four elements representing the natural order are brought to life and given a human face. Each element is represented by a particular colour: blue for the Wind; transparent green for Water; bountiful gold for the Earth; passionate red for Fire. Dralion with its powerful ethnic energy and explosive variety of styles and form brings passion and warmth to the winter shores of the Neva River. The troupe for Dralion comprises 50 acrobats, performers, musicians and singers from all corners of the Earth. Q Tickets 1,300 - 3,600Rbl.

16.12 Monday

Rhythm of the Dance

E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www. rhythmofthedance.com. The Irish dance troupe is one of the top five in Ireland. The group performs over 200 times a year and has toured four continents. The show tells an epic story, reliving the journey of the Irish Celts throughout history. Using modern art forms of dance and music, this richly costumed show marries the contemporary and the ancient. Combining traditional dance and music with the most up to date stage technology, the show is a thousand year old story executed with all the advantages of the modern day stage show. The show presents the best of Irish dance and music. Dancers include world Irish dance champions, some of Ireland‘s top musicians and vocalists from the Three Irish Tenors. With such a line up of talented musicians and dancers the performance promises to overwhelm you with passion, energy and excitement. Come along and discover your Irish roots! Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

Culture & Events 17.12 Tuesday

January events

Gorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo), pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50. Virtuosos of International Ballet is a grand gala concert featuring virtuoso soloists from around the world. The concert includes artists from the best international ballet troupes including performers from Argentina, Brazil, Cuba, the Netherlands, Ukraine, Japan and Russia. The performance will include excerpts from classical and contemporary ballets including La Bayadère, La Esmeralda, Don Quixote, The Talisman, Flames of Paris and Carmen with choreography by George Balanchine, Maurice Béjart and William Pedro himself, along with many others. The artists will meet in St. Petersburg where, under the guidance of teachers from the Mariinsky and Mikhailovsky theatres, they will prepare for this demanding programme before going on a tour of Russia, visiting such distant cities as Vladivostok and Sochi. This is a great opportunity to get a taste of some of the best ballets performed by some of the world‘s best ballerinas. Q Tickets 600 - 3,000Rbl.

23.01 Thursday

19:00 Virtuosos of World Ballet

D-1, Lensoveta Palace of Culture (DK Lensoveta), Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.beegees.com. The Beatles, ABBA, and the Bee Gees never made it as far as the USSR or in Russia. Now at last the day has come for this classic band to make its Russian debut. As a tribute to this remarkable band Saturday Night - The Ultimate Tribute to the Bee Gees was created as an authentic show recapturing the music and the style of the classic trio. The tribute has met with huge success around the world, performing to full houses and taking you back to the magical world of the 1970s and ‚80s dance floor with your favourite hits. Bring along your dance shoes for this night of classic disco music. Q Tickets 2,500Rbl.

St. Tatiana's Day

19:00 The Andreyev Orchestra. The Musical Legends of the Orient

D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 575 55 29, www.andreyevorchestra.ru. The anniversary year of Russia‘s first orchestra to made up entirely of Russian instruments comes to a close this winter with a beautiful international performance. On 26 December the Andreyev Orchestra will reveal the wealth of music written by Turkish composers, playing them on Russian instruments. The Musical Legends of the Orient concert is dedicated to the anniversary of leading composers of Turkish descent Farid Yarullin and Arif Melikov. The concert will include extracts from their works and also Kazakh, Bashkir, Tatar and Uzbek composers. Q Tickets 100 - 500Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/ StPetersburgInYourPocket St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

20:00 Bee Gees

25.01 Saturday 26.12 Thursday

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hermitage 20/21

There are plenty of Tanyas in this country but none are as special as St. Tatiana the patron saint of students. St. Tanya’s day - or Student’s Day as it is often called - is celebrated on January 25 and is usually marked by all manner of pranks and revelry, especially so as it typically lands at the end of the winter exam session. All the major university campuses tend to host some kind of special events for students and all across the country young people get up to all kinds of tricks and tomfoolery.

Epiphany 19.01 Sunday

Russian Orthodox Epiphany (Kreshchenie) Ice swimming has been a practised in Russia for centuries although there are no clear details of how exactly the tradition began. The most common form of ice swimming, is the religious ice baptism. Every year on the epiphany (January 19th in the Russian Orthodox calendar) Russian Orthodox believers are plunged into a blessed section of frozen water three times in honour of Jesus‘ baptism in the river Jordan by John the Baptist. During the Soviet era the ice baptism tradition all but disappeared, but in recent years this way of marking the Kreshchenie (epiphany) has again become popular. Last year more than 30,000 thousand people in Moscow alone took the plunge. If you are hoping to watch the spectacle it is best to either get up very early in the morning or arrive around midnight - as as with many Orthodox religious ceremonies, the Kreshchenie usually takes place during the night. The most central area where icy baptisms are performed is on the Neva in front of the Peter and Paul Fortress and close to the university on Universitetskaya nab.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Through 09.02 Sunday

Mono-No-Aware. The Beauty of Things. Contemporary Japanese Art Mono-No Aware, an exciting exhibition of young Japanese modern artists will be held in the General Staff Building of The Hermitage Museum from 16 November to 9 February, 2014. The Modern Art department of the Hermitage Museum, also known as the Hermitage 20/21 Project, has carefully selected and curated this group of artists who are well-known in their home country, but are practically unknown in Russia and Europe. This is a ground-breaking and historical exhibition – not only for Russia but for modern art fans in the west who will have an opportunity to view this rare ensemble of artists' works. The exhibition features works by Omishi Yasuaki, Motoi Yamamoto, Kuwakubo Ryota, Kengo Kito, Kaneuji Teppei, Hiroaki Morita, Shinishiro Kano and Hiraki Sawa. Mono-no aware, translated as the “awareness of the beauty of things”, refers to the courtly art of the Heian period of Japanese history (794-1185). The works selected for this exhibition, while not directly related to this period of history, evoke the special poetic sense of the time. Included in the exhibition are sculptures, photographs and video art that invoke a new era for Japan's many centuries of art. The State Hermitage Museum is home to more than 10,000 works of Japanese art including more than 1,500 color block prints, many of which were created by famous masters of Japanese engraving from the 18th20th centuries. The collection also includes collections of fine china and ceramics, lacquered wares from 18th20th centuries and tapestries and costumes. The most valuable collection of Japanese art at the Hermitage is the more than 1000 netsuke – miniature sculptures from the 17th and 18th centuries. Mono-No-Aware is curated by Dimitri Ozerkov, PhD, director of the Hermitage Modern Art Department; and Ekaterina Lopatkina, PhD, deputy director of the Hermitage Modern Art Department. D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff Building, Dvortsovaya pl., MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org.

December 2013 - January 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Through 12.01 Sunday

Exhibitions

Masterpieces of Twentieth-Centur y Art from the Albertina Collection

Through 19.01 Sunday

William II and Anna Pavlovna: Royal Splendour of the Dutch Court

D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The Winter Palace, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 76, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This exhibition reveals the close links between Russia and the Netherlands by focusing on one of the most important events in the relationship between the two nations in the 19th century - the marriage of the Grand Dutchess Anna Pavlovna to the heir of the Dutch throne the Grand Duke of Luxembourg William Orange. Having seen the art owned by the Russian emperors, William II started his own collection which became one of the best in Europe. However, the impoverished state of the royal court in the Netherlands meant that after his death this collection was sold at an auction. A significant part of William II‘s art collection will be displayed for the first time since the collection was sold in 1850. Among the 250 items on display are: Memling‘s Triptych (Louvre, Paris), several works by Rubens, Velázquez‘s Portrait of Philip IV, Guercino‘s Martyrdom of St. Catherine, Melzi‘s Flora (State Hermitage Museum). Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Vladimir Yashke

D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The Winter Palace, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 76, www.hermitagemuseum. org. The whole period of 20th century art is covered in this exhibition featuring 55 artworks from the Albertina collection. The collection covers works from cubism to constructionism and places special emphasis on expressionism and the Paris school. The exhibition gives the St. Petersburg audience an opportunity to see key works from 20th century masters including those by Edvard Munch, Max Beckmann, Lyonel Feininger and Pablo Picasso. The exhibition Masterpieces of 20th century art from the Albertina Collection marks the beginning of the RussianAustrian cultural season 2013-2014. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Through 12.01 Sunday

Dutch Architecture: 1945-2000

D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff Building, Dvortsovaya pl., MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The exhibition focuses on the history of post war Dutch architecture. It consists of more than 200 works, including mock-ups, pictures, photographs and videos showing the quest for a universal formula for town planning. The exhibition begins with the period of post war reconstruction and concludes with the work of Remment Koolhaas. The reconstruction period includes some of the brightest and most unusual avant-garde experiments from the beginning of 20th century. The exhibition includes the work of the famous international collaboration Group10, the 1960s utopia and the structuralism of the 1970s. The work of the ‘new generation‘ over the past ten years is of particular interest. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Through 01.02 Saturday

World of Sharks 11.12 Wednesday - 01.02 Saturday

Vladimir Yashke

D-2, Marble Palace, Ul. Millionnaya 5/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru. Vladimir Yashke is a legendary figure in the St. Petersburg underground. Yashke continues to work, maintaining his individual and recognisable style, marked by unfettered freedom of painting and close attention to colour and texture - the keys to 20th century painting. Vladimir Yashke‘s work is displayed at the Russian Museum and other museums around Russia and overseas. However the exhibition in the Marble Palace will be the first exhibition to present the main stages of Yashke‘s creative journey. The exhibition, dedicated to Yashke‘s 65th birthday, will present more than 100 pieces of the maestro‘s art. The paintings are brought together with romance and humour. The exhibition includes works from private collections as well as the Russian Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

D-2, Artillery museum, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 904 554 66 30, www.planetshark.org. Predator or victim? This is the question posed to visitors of the world‘s largest mobile shark exhibition. Dive into the world of sharks and meet their full variety with more than 350 species currently known. See pictures and videos demonstrating the evolution of this animal. Find yourself inside the two-metre jaws of a megalodon and visit the Jaws Hollywood set. The exhibition tells the story

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

of sharks from primordial times to today. Interactive touch screens enable you to explore the structure of the shark, how their powerful jaws work and how these creatures are able to navigate in the ocean‘s depths. Multimedia panels present beautiful images and rare documentary films. Ichthyologists, marine biologists, and specialist underwater photographers and camera operators were involved in creating the exhibition which has toured in USA, Australia and Turkey. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed last Thu of the month.

FC Zenit

Through 09.03 Sunday

The Kingdom of Florа

C-3, Rumyantsev maison, Angliskaya nab. 44, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 498 05 03, w w w. spbmuseum.ru. Displayed in Russia for the first time, the exhibi tion comprises canvases from the Modus Vivendi Art Gallery of nature mor te floral paintings by Dutch and Flemish painters from the 17th century to the start of the 18th century. The exhibition includes works from the famous Brueghel family: Jan Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Jan Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Ferdinand Brueghel; and also Jan-Baptist Bosschaert, Gaspar Pieter Verbruggen the Younger, Jan Philips van Thielen, Pieter Castells III, Jan van Huysum and Flemish women Alida Withoos and others. The exhibition is decorated by luscious bouquets of real flowers. Visitors can admire not only the floral paintings but also learn about the complex symbolism involved in Dutch and Flemish nature morte, decoding the forgotten and enigmatic language of flowers. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

04.12 Wednesday - 01.02 Saturday

Kazimir Malevich. Before and after the Square painting

D-2, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Kazimir Malevich was the creator of suprematism whose idea was first unveiled at an avante-garde opera in St. Petersburg 100 years ago. The opera Victory over the Sun revealed the Sun as a black square, which represented the victory of artistic creativity over nature‘s passivity. The black square became an active element in the abstract artistic movement within Russia and has had an impact on the development of art around the globe. The exhibition will explore the two stages of Malevich‘s life, before and after the “Black Square” with 101 paintings and more than 50 other graphical works, including costumes and scenes for theatrical productions. There will also be a performance of the opera Victory over the Sun at the Stas Namin Centre (Moscow). Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

The very intense autumn football season comes to a close in St. Petersburg this December, and FC Zenit has been quite successful to date this season. Zenit not only survived its packed schedule of Russian Premier League fixtures and UEFA Champions League qualifying and group stage matches, the team quickly took first place in the Russian standings. The Russian Premier League reaches its winter break in early December, and hearty fans of local heroes FC Zenit will get the unique opportunity to support their team in potentially sub-zero temperatures at Petrovsky Stadium on Friday, December 6, when Zenit hosts FC Ural. While such conditions may sound difficult to the average football fan, the fact is that winter matches at Petrovsky Stadium are often some of the most memorable. The feeling of overcoming the elements makes every one of these “Snow Bowl” matches a special memory. Zenit will consider its chances of beating FC Ural to be good, as the visitors from Yekaterinburg are at the bottom of the Russian standings. Zenit already beat Ural 2:1 on the road in October. If sitting outside for a football match in December isn’t your thing, then you can also try a different experience: supporting Zenit from a St. Petersburg bar when Russia’s finest team goes to Vienna, Austria to play the last Champions League group stage match on Wednesday, December 11. The final standings in Group G are likely to come right down to the wire, as Zenit was leading FC Porto by just 1 point for second place in the group at the time this issue went to press. Zenit fans love to gather in bars and cafes to whoop it up, poor down some beers, and send their positive energy to the team. Information about tickets to Zenit’s home match vs. FC Ural is available on the official Zenit website: en.fc-zenit.ru.

Through 28.04 Monday

Golden childhood…noble indulgence

C-3, Alexander Blok museum, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum.ru. Dedicated to the raising of children in noble families at the turn of the 19th and 20th century the exhibition shows the favourite pass-times, interests and games of youngsters at that time. The exhibition includes numerous photographs as well as a reconstruction of a children‘s room, children‘s clothing and everyday possessions and toys: a train, a bike shaped like a horse, a dolls house, croquet mallet and many other items, including children‘s journals, books and board games. The exhibition includes an interactive zone where visitors make their own toys and can also play board games. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

10 YEARS RUSSIA IYP

When we launched Russia In Your Pocket in 2003, tourism in the country was still undeveloped. There were great places to visit; incredible museums, quirky bars, nice cafés - but to find them you needed to know about them and this knowledge only came by speaking Russian, having local friends - that and opening every random door you came across! “Often great little bars would be hidden away in the basement of some yard”, explains founder Bonnie van der Velde. “There was so much interesting and great stuff going on in Russia but people just didn’t know about it.” Ten years ago Russia was a country with great tourism potential, but many big changes and major industry growth still lay ahead. Dutch expats Bonnie and Charles decided this was the perfect moment to use their local knowledge and passion for the country to create Russia’s first In Your Pocket guide. Their decision helped change how tourists, foreign students and expatriates experienced Russia, giving them the tools to get out and enjoy all those little hidden gems that only the locals seemed to know about. “It is so rewarding seeing people using the guide in the street and using it the way it was intended,” says Bonnie. Things have certainly changed a lot over the last ten years, but despite it all life in Russia can still be unpredictable, chaotic and highly addictive. This is a strange yet beautiful land, a wonderful place full of culture, excitement, and of course, soul. We’re the kind of people who love this country and what it has to offer and we want every reader who arrives here to fall in love with Russia too. Putting the information together to make In Your Pocket what it is, isn’t always easy - but it is always interesting! We asked a few of our former editors to tell us about some of their favourite memories of working for In Your Pocket, embracing the local culture and generally living the Russian life.

Russia Is Expanding This December, Russia In Your Pocket is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Over the past 10 years we have delved into the Russia’s rich cultural histor y, giving foreigners tips to survive the winter, and revealed the best places to dine and wine, and the best concerts and exhibitions to see. Back in 2003, this information was hard to find even if you knew Russian, and in English the information just didn’t exist. But having revealed the best kept secrets of the two capitals, we realised that we had barely touched Russia’s broad expanse. Over the past few years Russia In Your Pocket has added another 15 cities to our website, giving you basic information for travelling to some of Russia’s most attractive and little known locations. This year we have been busy filling the void and added Kostroma, Petrozavodsk, Sochi, Samara, Kolomna to our ever expanding web presence. Each location has something uniquely different which helps explain the variation and the richness of Russia’s culture. Russia In Your Pocket’s website is the perfect starting place when you want to venture a little further a field and discover the breadth of Russia for yourself.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Louise Whitworth One of my most memorable experiences of working in Russia was the insane two month long heat wave which struck in the summer of 2010. Temperatures hovered in the mid-30s for weeks on end and there was no escape from the oppressive heat and humidity. Even the usually stoic Russians couldn’t cope and it felt like we were all going a bit mad. As editor of this highly-respected city guide, I knew exactly what I had to do. I had to get out and write an extensive rundown of all the city’s coolest late-night, open-air bars, so we could finally start enjoying these freakishly hot St. Petersburg White Nights properly! Every single beer garden or street terrace was rammed, youngsters with their beers thronged the embankments and suddenly all these grungy little make-shift bars began to appear in bizarre outdoor locations. That summer I drank at bars in derelict building sites, on pocket-sized city centre roofs, amongst old warehouses and in disused car parks, on boat jetties, on broken sofas under trees in historic courtyards and one hot night we partied at a ‘club’ in the ruins of an old building just off Nevsky Prospekt - the lack of windows and doors proved great ventilation. Of course by the time the heatwave finally ended, most of these places were usurped by much higher quality bars boasting cold draught beer, health and safety standards and the joys of real flushing toilets. But for those few weeks, when we treated our one and only office fan as sacred (literally all the shops had sold out), these were the most carefree, fun and friendly joints in the whole city. I’ve probably been to literally hundreds of hip, posh, pretty, historic, grungy and glamorous bars in Russia before and since, but nowhere sticks in my mind more than the crazy places we visited that summer.

About me:

I came to Russia from the UK in late 2005 to work in a kindergarten as part of a one year AIESEC exchange programme. I stayed for more than six years, four of which I spent working for Russia In Your Pocket. In early 2013 I moved to South Africa and I am now writing for the new Johannesburg In Your Pocket which will be launched in February 2014.

Peter Morley When I first visited St Petersburg, despi te having completed the first year of an undergraduate degree in Russian, I was so ignorant I’d never even heard of the Hermi ta ge. On that first trip I learned two words: ashtray (pepelni tsa) and hangover (pokhmel ye). I t was the beginning of a beautiful friendship. Like any friendship it has been tested over the years. The apparently Narnian winters, perennial visa issues and other bureaucratic frustrations, the moments of sheer “what the ****?” that colour daily life… a certain weary fatalism, often delivered with a knowing smile, is an identifying feature of inostrantsy (foreigners) who make their home in Russia for any length of time. But there is something ineluctable too. The spectacular white nights of summer, just made for long walks along the

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

river; a rich history and inexhaustible culture to explore, from Musorgsky’s operas and Shostakovich’s symphonies to Bulgakov’s prose and so much more… and at the root of it all the great and mysterious russkaya dusha (Russian soul). Russia has given me more than my fair share of good memories. It was here that I had my first proper job, here I obtained my master’s degree, and here I made some lifelong friendships rooted in shared experience of and fascination with this great and baffling country. Most importantly, Russia for me is where I fell in love. In late 2002 I met Alena, and in 2006, just before leaving Russia, we got married at the ZAGS on the English Embankment. This summer saw a new chapter begin with the birth of our son. Gabriel (Gavriil Petrovich) makes his first visit to Russia next year.

About me:

I first travelled to Russia just before the default, and later lived in St Petersburg for six years. I translated, edited and wrote for IYP for some time. Now I live in London and work at a Russia/CIS-focused PR consultancy that I helped establish this summer.

Jennifer Fell Thanks to so many lovely kind babushkas and dedushkas who helped me get out of the marshrutkas when I was still shy about yelling out my bad Russian in public. Thanks again to those babushkas who gave me instructions on my inadequate (of course) winter clothing (boots, hat, gloves). I am still ver y grateful to the gypsy cab driver who brought back my hat and scarf to my friends at Dacha (on a Monday night!) after I had left them in his car. He did try and give them back to me but I ran away because I thought he was attacking me. That’s what you get for drinking on a Monday... Other things that I particular remember: watching the headstone engraver in the dvor of the Ligovsky IYP office chisel headstones while wearing high heels; when the G20 came to St. Pete and the streets were full of police and OMON, when we go out for the night, of course they lean out the windows of their barracks on Ul. Lomonosova to get us to come and party with them… yes we were so tempted by you guys in your singlets; in Moscow, going to the bar around the corner from Red Square and seeing the Lenin lookalike having lunch. “I’ll have what Lenin’s having.”; going backstage with Mike, the Mariinsky translator, and seeing behind-the-scenes – checking out the ballet dancers, the technicians and meeting Flora the goat; climbing onto rooftops above Ligovsky Pr.; dancing in the snow on Elagin Ostrov; sitting on the all night barge near the Anichkov bridge during the White Nights; walking through the Hermitage and looking out the windows and seeing the frozen, cracked Neva River.

About me:

I was supposed to stay in St. Petersburg for three months to teach English but my return ticket to Australia went in the bin as pretty soon after arriving I decided to stay. I ended up staying for three years. I moved on from teaching English to working for In Your Pocket. I met my English boyfriend Joe and we rescued a cat, Aleksandar Glebovich from the unpronounceable Vsevolozhsk, somewhere in the north of St. Pete where he’d been dumped on a doorstep. This beautiful but rather common moggy has come all the way to Australia – via Japan. Nowadays I’m back in Australia in a small town called Moe, Australia. I work on my writing and look after my two boys: Bertie who is 3 years and Henry who is 7 months.

December 2013 - January 2014

Winter Holydays

10 YEARS RUSSIA IYP Joe Crescente I have had the opportunity to work as an editor with In Your Pocket Russia on two occasions, the initial opportunity being in its first year of existence and the second one much more recently. I am definitely impressed with how far IYP has come in Russia, and correspondingly how much the Russian tourism market has matured and grown. Every time something new pops up in Moscow or St. Pete I rush to tell IYP, but in most cases they have already covered it. Back in 2003 when I first starting working for IYP in St. Petersburg, one of my first assignments was to visit hotels, drop off some materials, and write reviews. I remember covering 26 in just three weeks. That doesn’t sound terribly ambitious, but 10 years ago, the hotels were not all clustered near Nevsky as they are now, and the ones that were had already been covered. To this day, more than half of the ground I have covered in St. Petersburg was probably covered in visiting those hotels, some in absurd locations due to inheritance or the legacy of Soviet industry. More than one hotel was located adjacent to a defunct or partially operating factory. That year was a learning experience for everyone. There still really was only a fledgling tourist industry, dominated by officialdom, and there were no guidelines, no roadmap, very little even in the way of guidebooks, and they were very sparse at that. I remember Jerke Verschoor having such a hard time selling advertisements, because business owners still didn’t understand the subtleties of niche markets. Well, needless to say that a lot has changed, and IYP has had much to do with it!

About me:

I first came to Russia to study in 2001 and have spent a total of four years in Russia. I now live in Moscow and work as an area director for an educational programme funded by the US government.

Rosa Weber Stories from an email sent to close friends on 19th February 2006: I can’t wait to actually see this city in the sunshine!!! How can I express the coldness I have experienced? Blue hands under gloves, frozen hair, seven layers, shivering every night, day, morning. Minus 30 was the lowest, it was the coldest winter for decades apparently. I feel shocked and amazed that the body can withstand it, that is if you have a roof over your head. It was painful to breathe in outside, but everyone keeps going, no one complains apart from the foreigners. On New Year’s Eve we danced around Palace Square. Some guys suddenly picked us up on their shoulders and ran across the square through the crowds and we nearly went flying for the ice. Went to a lock in bar and danced on tables and chairs and everywhere and drank too much vodka. Went to a friend’s flat by the dock and woke up in 2006 to the view of the frozen white ocean spreading as far as the eye can see with an orange sun smiling over it. The magazine is getting more popular and busier by the month as the tourism industry is growing so fast here. Going to all these weird promotions for events for work. Couple of

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

weeks ago went to a fashion show of men in suits which was really funny and very eventful. They had bikini clad women painted in white glitter chopping up an ice wall in the middle of the catwalk and it was flying into the audience in chunks! It was in the five star Astoria hotel and afterwards there was a dinner in the beautiful dining hall, with plush tables and live orchestra and all the well dressed VIP Russians. There was gourmet food and all you can drink alcohol, really good French wine. They put us on a table with the rest of the press. Now the Russian press are quite different to the UK... there were three men who looked like 19th century intellectuals, with wee beards and glasses and green suits and fountain pens in their top pockets. My brother came to visit me two weeks ago and we went to a Blues club and Russian sauna and old taverns and opera and this day called Pushkin Day on 10 Feb. I don’t know any other country who could worship a poet so much! Pushkin has an almost religious status here. The public, young and old, gathered in the courtyard of his old apartment, the place where he died after he was shot in a duel over the woman he loved. People threw flowers onto his statue, the Governer of St. Petersburg made a speech and an actor read Pushkin’s poetry. There was a one minute silence at 14:45, the moment Pushkin’s heart stopped beating in the 19th century. Men removed their hats, some of the older women were weeping and crossing themselves. It was a poignant and full of poetry, drama; holding the captive memory of bygone days that seem to dance always in the Russian air.

About me:

After having interned for three months at In Your Pocket, they offered me the permanent paid editorial position. It was music to my ears and I then lived in St. Petersburg for about a year and a half. I am now a freelance creative consultant and writer. I am also writing a feature film at the moment which has had some interest from production companies - it’s a psychological drama/thriller. As a citizen journalist I also make documentary films with a voluntary team that explore ideas to create a more equal and fair society and system.

Congratulations! I sincerely congratulate you on your 10th anniversary. In Your Pocket is one of the most professional publications in the tourism industry. Your experience over many years, individual approach and original ideas have enabled you to strengthen your position as a highly qualified guide for St. Petersburg and an essential item for tourism lovers. Your professionalism has enabled visitors to see the multifaceted nature of St. Petersburg. You are able to evaluate the openness, accessibility, tolerance, safety and priceless intellectual and architectural soul of our city. I would like to wish you creative success, well deserved friends, new creative solutions and success in all your endeavours. Congratulations on your 10th anniversary, my friends! Nana Gvichia, General Director, St. Petersburg Tourist Information Bureau Dear friends! From the bottom of our heart AdVita Charitable Foundation congratulates the wonderful team at Russia In Your Pocket on this notable occassion – your tenth anniversary! With all our soul would we thank you for your informational support and wish you and your company success and prosperity! In your representatives we have met noble people and reliable helpers. It is wonderful when a worthy heart beats within the breast of a true professional. Supporting those in need, we become better and stronger ourselves. You have shown this! AdVita Charitable Foundation

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

New Year With The Stars

A Russian New Year feast There is only one New Year salad, the Olivier. Named after its alleged creator, French chef Lucien Olivier. Olivier was touted as a fashionable gourmet of 19th century Moscow, heading up the exclusive Hermitage restaurant in the 1860s. He composed the original gourmet version from grouse, veal tongue, caviar, lettuce, capers and gherkins. The recipe, in particular, the dressing, was a zealously guarded secret. One thing is for certain, there were definitely no potatoes or tinned peas! Over the years the recipe has changed as the availability of different products varied and now tends to be based on spam type sausage and boiled vegetables smothered in mayonnaise. Beyond Russia’s borders, it is also known simply as Russian salad. Plenty of other salads and snacks (zakuski) typically fill up the New Year spread with fruits which were once hard to come by in the winter such as tangerines or pineapple also traditionally appearing in abundance. The national party drink is of course Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne). It is what it sounds like – sparkling wine – and is particularly popular at New Year’s. It comes in several varieties from bryut (dry) to the sickly sladkoye (sweet), but by default you’ll usually be given polusladkoye (semi-sweet).

Visit Father Frost Russia incorporates traditional Christmas elements such as a gift-giving and decorated fir trees (almost identical to Christmas trees) in the New Year festivities. Father Christmas also makes an appearance but strictly speaking Ded Moroz (Father Frost) has many key differences from Santa Claus. Firstly he was in original mythology an evil character. A spirit who personified the cold of winter, his tears were icicles and as he travelled across the country on foot he would freeze rivers and lakes with the touch of his staff along the way. Parents would put out presents for him as an offering to dissuade him from taking away their children. Over time his image softened and he instead became the bringer of presents and good cheer. In Soviet times, under the orders of Stalin no less, Ded Moroz received a customary blue, furlined uniform and acquired a companion Snegurochka (the snow maiden). The snow maiden is a beautiful young blonde woman who according to the story is his granddaughter. In the past two decades the pair have also gained two official residences; one in Veliky Ustyug (a village in the Vologda region) and one in Belavezhskaya Pushcha, Belarus. You will find Ded Moroz and Snegurochka doing the rounds at the city’s parks and theatres in the run up to New Year at one of the many ‘yolka’ (fir tree) shows. During these shows kids are entertained by a pantomime style story featuring cuddly fairytale characters. Some of the more elaborate yolki shows are even performed on ice.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

New Year is the biggest party of the year. What better way to say farewell to the old year and celebrate the new with a party you will remember all year round? St. Petersburg hotels are a great venue to celebrate with friends, make new friends and enjoy the best the city has to offer. Forget the fuss of cooking, or the hassles of playing host and head down to a hotel where you can let the professionals handle the work while you spend some quality time catching up with friends and mixing with a great group of people. Enjoy the best food, the best drink and the best company the city has to offer in a cosy and refined setting. Whatever your taste, the chances are there’s a hotel offering you something special. Angleterre Hotel D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www. angleterrehotel.com. Q Tickets 9,900Rbl (Borsalino restaurant), children under 12 years old half price, children under 7 years old free of charge. Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www. grandhoteleurope.com. Q Tickets 31,900 - 36,500Rbl (L’Europe restaurant and Caviar Bar&Restaurant), 20,600Rbl (Rooftop Terrace). Children under 7 years old 3,500Rbl., children udner 18 years old get 30% discount. Hotel Astoria D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.roccofortehotels.com. QTickets 18,000Rbl, children under 8 years old half price. Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. QTickets 19,500Rbl (Imperial restaurant). Children under 16 years old 50% discount, children under 6 years old free of charge.

New Year Fortune Telling The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed to be a particularly auspicious time for fortune telling. According to tradition, the night of old New Year's Day, 13th January, gives the most truthful predictions. Wax: This involves melting wax and pouring it onto water. It will solidify into a shape. From this shape, you must judge your future. If it is a house, you will live well this year. If circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind of fruit or animal, you will have good health. If it is a man, then you know what that means! Paper: Screw up some paper, put it on a tray and set fire to it. When it stops burning, lift the tray to the wall in front of some light. The shadow of the burnt paper should cast a shape onto the wall. You can predict the coming year’s luck from the shape of this shadow. King of Diamonds: Take a deck of playing cards and remove the King of Diamonds. Put it under your pillow on a night between 6 and 13 December and you will dream of your future husband(s). Lucky Dip: Take a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a hook. Lay them on a table and cover them with cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If you choose the ring, your husband will be vain. If the bread, your husband will be rich. If you get the hook, your future husband will be poor. Other versions of the lucky dip may feature a baby’s sock (predicting an imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth), a ring (for marriage) and a key (for a new home).

December 2013 - January 2014

WINTER HOLIDAYS Tea Ceremony It doesn’t take long to realise that tea is an important part of Russian culture. If ever you are invited home by Russian friends the chances are they will invite you to drink tea with them. Traditionally, Russians brew a concentrated form of tea, called zavarka. You can then pour as much or as little zavarka into your cup (or more traditionally a glass placed in an elegant metal holder podstakannik) which you then dilute with hot water from the samovar. Although attractive and graceful, the function of a samovar is to boil water and keep it warm. The samovar has a place in the top of it for the teapot with zavarka to keep it nicely warm too. Russians rarely consider tea sufficient by itself, they love to add lemon, honey or varanye (a type of jam) to the brew. In more traditional settings, they will usually have two different types of brews, a large brew of zavarka from ordinary tea leaves, and a small zavarka of green tea or another more exotic tea. Typically when Russians sit down for tea they will eat something as well, pechenya (biscuits) and bliny (pancakes) are popular choices. For those who want to experience the hospitality of a Russian tea ceremony the Astoria Hotel offers a lovely after lunch tea and desert, accompanied with bliny and varenye (pancakes and jam) as well as chocolate fondues with fresh fruit. The historic setting and old world charm and comfort of the Astoria, just across the road from St. Isaac’s Cathedral, is the ideal place for a Russian tea-party. Astoria Hotel, Rotonda Lounge Afternoon tea 15:00 – 20:00, 1900Rbl per person or 1250Rbl per person without caviar and champagne.

Christmas For Children

Celebrate Russian Christmas According to the Russian Orthodox calendar, Christmas lands on January 7 and is a much more solemn and religious affair than in the west, which is mainly celebrated only by devout Christians. On Christmas Eve religious families usually attend a midnight mass at church starting around 22:00 which is followed by a long night vigil at the church while yet more services also take place in the morning. After attending church services the family usually return home to start the feasting with a huge supper traditionally consisting of twelve courses – symbolic of the twelve apostles. Some of the twelve traditional dishes include fish (as a traditional Christian symbol), sweet cakes made from honey and kutya, a milky porridge made on a base of poppy seeds, wheatberries, honey and nuts, which is generally only ever served at this time of year. Nowadays many upscale hotels offer their own special Christmas brunches for those looking to mark the occasion.

New Year Street parties The annual New Year celebrations on Nevsky Prospekt and Palace Square are both chaotic and fun. St. Petersburg residents love a good street party and New Year is no exception with fireworks and champagne corks flying all over the place. The party area generally starts around Gostiny Dvor, with the area of the street leading down to the river usually closed to traffic as midnight approaches and the area fills with revellers. By all means get into the spirit, hug random members of the public, enjoy a plastic cup of Sovietskoye shampanskoye and greet everyone with a hearty ‘s novim godom’ (Happy New Year) but remember to also keep an eye on your belongings as New Year unfortunately can also be a good time for less scrupulous members of society. To make sure that everyone can get home after the big party the metro will be running from 04:00.

Warm up in the banya

This Christmas give the children a memory they will cherish. Bring your kids along to a Christmas Fairy Tale. Throughout December the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 runs free Christmas programme for children and gives you the opportunity to relax in the elegant, comfortable and festive surroundings of the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22. The programme changes daily and will include one of the following a children’s choir, musical theatre, a string quartet, piano evenings and other performances. This is a great opportunity for your kids to enjoy the spirit of Christmas, meet other children and for your to catch your breath at the end of the year. Enjoy the free mulled wine and biscuits and give your children a fun evening out. The concerts start at 6.30 p.m. from Monday to Saturday and at 5.30 p.m. on Sunday through the whole month of December. Grand Hotel Europe has also prepared a surprise for their little guests. On January 5 the hotel holds one of the most famous children's Christmas parties in St. Petersburg. Special guests Father Frost and the Snow Maiden will join the guests for a magical day of dancing, gifts, games and competitions under their spectacular Christmas tree. Call the hotel for more info: tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The banya is the Russian sauna. For some, it is a social event, to be enjoyed with friends and much drinking. For others, including some of the few remaining city’s communal-flat residents who don’t have showers at home, this is the normal way to wash. For this reason, banyas come in all shapes and sizes. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms and places to chill out and get dressed. Banyas usually have male and female sections, or alternate between men and women’s days. Private banyas are when you get a group of friends together and split the cost of a small banya between you. The health benefits of having a good old sweat and perhaps a beating with some branches in the Russian banya are many and the experience should do wonders for those battling with winter chills or holiday hangovers. Degtyarnie Bathhouses E-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a. ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Kazachie bany D-3, Bol. Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Q Open 24hrs.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

hotels

hotels We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period December 2013 - January 2014. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room price start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow. The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive as its interior. Think ‘cellists, plush carpets and gold-leafed ceiling work. The Four Seasons is the epitome of classy. The hotel not only offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, but also impeccable service and top quality amenities. Since it‘s just been renovated, everything in the hotel is completely up-to-date and the whole project has been meticulously thought through for the comfort and convenience of the guests. And all that with a more than generous serving of style. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis-

Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,

22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant, Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar 1853; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast 1,575Rbl. PTHA6FLG� KDW hhhhh

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five topnotch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar (the only one in the city) or the elegant L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab.

reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh

Symbol Key

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child friendly

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

C Swimming pool

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

D Sauna

M Nearest metro station

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

hotels

hotels Official State Hermitage Hotel E-3, Ul. Pravdy 10, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 98 10, www. theofficialstatehermitagehotel.com. This hotel is located in the centre of St. Petersburg with classical interiors and artwork similar to what you will find at the State Hermitage Museum. The furniture follows the traditional style of Italian masters and creates a sense of elegance. The entrance is grand with bubbling fountains and bright light streaming from the cupola above. Guests can dine at the Catherine II restaurant on the first floor, while expectations are high for the opening of the Michelangelo restaurant and cigar lounge. Permission for the hotel was specially granted by the State Hermitage Museum and has been decorated following guidelines given by the museum. Guests to the hotel also have the opportunity to take special tours of the museum. A free bus takes guests to and from the State Hermitage Museum, which is located about 10 minutes drive away. The hotel is a convenient distance to public transport and most of the main attractions in the city. Q126 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). PAGKW hhhhh Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-

mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the welltrained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St. Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there‘s a spa and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLGB� KDCW hhhhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiral-

teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh

4 Stars Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-

naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh

AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www. azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is the tallest building in this part of the city and the new Sky Bar has just been re-opened with the most amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with a modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves, among others, great pizza‘s as well. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance

via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFL� GKW hhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Novotel Centre New Café The new café located in the Novotel Centre is aimed for people living fast and healthily with a balanced menu. The interior is designed by Frenchman Olivier Gibauld who focused on creating an elegant, comfortable interior. Soft couches and armchairs, unusual designer lamps, floral arrangements, and background music create a welcoming atmosphere and allow visitors to stay comfortably and enjoy their time. The result is a cosy café which works equally well for a business meeting as it does for a relaxed meal with friends. While the Novotel Café offers standard soft bread san d wi ch es an d burgers, i t also has a wh ol e some range of paninis and makes a speciality of it flammkuchen pies – which are made to a special recipe brought from Strasbourg in Alsace. The dish originated from peasant cuisine among the Alsatian villages where bread was baked every week, so that baking became a small family celebration. At the peak of its temperature, the oven would be too hot for baking bread but was ideal for cooking a thin cake of dough covered with cheese and sour cream, bacon slices and onions. This would be placed among the embers to bake. After a few minutes the flammkuhen would be removed, placed on a wooden board and cut into pieces and was ready for eating. The Novotel Café is open from 9:00 to 01:00 daily at the Novotel St. Petersburg Centre, ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya.

December 2013 - January 2014

hotels Ask the Concierge Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Anastasia Blagodatina and I am proud to be the representative of the Grand Hotel Europe by Orient Express. I have been a concierge here for over five years and it was a great luck for me to become a part of this fantastic hotel. I graduated from St. Petersburg State University, Faculty of Geography, in 2010 but by that time I had already found my dream profession – Concierge. I can’t imagine myself without this job. It’s really become my lifestyle and hobby. I’ve became a member of Les Clefs d’Or in May 2012 and that was one of the most significant events. Why should St. Petersburg be on the top of your list for a visit during the winter? Winter is often associated with Russia. White snow and hard frost, vodka and banya, furs and felt boots – all that is about Russia. But St. Petersburg’s atmosphere in winter is special – romantic, calm. The city is charming and majestic. The city centre with illuminated palaces and cathedrals, decorated squares and streets, Christmas markets, beautified shop windows, music being played – these things are reminiscent of childhood fairy tales. Open-sky skating rings, skiing in the forest, ice fishing, Troika sledge rides – these are just several Russian winter amusements. What is the Grand Hotel planning for Christmas and New Year events? The Grand Hotel Europe is one of the oldest hotels in Russia with a rich history, it is a real heritage asset and one of St. Petersburg’s symbols. We have a number of cherished traditions and many of them are related to the Christmas and New Year. Christmas celebrations will be held on 24 December and 7 January at the Caviar Bar and Restaurant, these will be elegant evenings with classical music. Exceptional dishes will be served as part of Sunday Brunch in the spectacular L’Europe restaurant on 29 December, 1 and 5 January. And traditional Kids New Year Party will be held on 5 January as it must be – with Grandfather Frost, the Snow Maiden, gifts and surprises! What is your own best experience in the wintertime in Russia in your past? I had a really happy childhood. With the first snow all the families ran out to make snowmen with carrot-noses, my friends and I spent all our free time at ice-hills sliding down on sledges, throwing snowballs at each other was one of the most popular games. And I remember Christmas performances that I visited with my Family – The Nutcracker, Cinderella, The Snow Maiden, ice shows, children’s New Year parties. What is a must-see in snow-covered St. Petersburg? St. Petersburg is an open air museum. The Hermitage Museum, the Russian Museum as well as Cathedrals: Kazan, St. Isaac’s, Savior on the Spilt Blood and others are must-sees all year round. But the real winter could be experienced in Pushkin and Pavlovsk. In addition to the marvelous Catherine, Alexander and Pavlovsk Palaces there are parks with thick, white snow where troika rides are available; the main rule: dress as warm as possible! Visiting a banya after such a trip will be a good way to extend the Russian experience!

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath facilities, while the beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast 900Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-

ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 850Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh Trezzini Palace Hotel C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 21,

MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 66 22, www. trezzinipalace.com. The newly opened Trezzini Palace Hotel, on the banks of the river Neva, is best described as a luxury, boutique hotel in a historic setting. It was built in 1723 by and for the famous Italian architect himself, who gave St. Petersburg some of its most famous buildings, such as the Peter & Paul Fortress and the red University building, not far from the hotel on Vasilevsky Island. The rooms are decorated with wooden flooring, marble columns and come with all the modern amenities you would expect. The entrance, complete with a glass lift, is quite spectacular. Some of the rooms have beautiful views over the river and St. Isaac Cathedral. Q21 rooms (Prices start at 20,000Rbl). PTAULKW

3 Stars

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya E-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www. stremyannaya-hotel.com. Just behind Nevsky Prospect in historic Stremyannaya street, Cronwell Inn Hotel prides itself in the traditional hotel experience. There are ‚5 o‘clock tea‘ club functions and a Stremyannaya mini museum complete with costumes. Superior rooms are spacious, clean, soft and adequately furnished including personal safes and flat screen televisions. Rooms differ only in size and luckily the amusing art over the headboards appears as standard throughout. Q49 rooms (Room prices start at 2,800Rbl). Extra bed from 1,000. PTHALGKW hhh

Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl, Breakfast 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh

Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a,

MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl.

Hostels Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Ka zanskaya 5, 3r d f loor,

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes‘ walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Business Lunch Taking friends or colleagues out to lunch is more than just having a meal and paying for it. The meal reflects your status as does the location. People remember the experience as a whole and if something is lacking it can ruin the experience and the impression you want to give. A great way to make a good impression and have some world class dining is to drop by on a hotel restaurant – you don’t need to be a guest to enjoy the refined interiors and stunning cooking. Here are some great hotel restaurants offering business lunches by top chefs, using fresh ingredients with a great setting.

Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.com. Q 12:00 - 15:00, 2 courses 550Rbl, 3 courses 600Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea. Borsalino D-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul.

24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com. Q12:00 - 15:00, 690Rbl. Buffet. Water/coffee/tea not included.

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 51, www.grandhoteleurope.com.

Q12:00 - 15:00, 2 courses 590Rbl, 3 courses 690Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea.

Côté Jardin E-3, Novotel, ul. Mayakovskogo 3a,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www. accorhotels.com/5679. Q12:00 - 16:00, 750Rbl. Buffet. Price includes water/coffee/tea.

miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. Q 12:00 - 18:00, 3 courses 850Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea. Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr.

15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Q 12:00 - 15:00, 3 courses 750Rbl, 4 courses 850Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea.

December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€ PTASW Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu - which is frequently updated - has a selection of fresh homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accommodating to foreign guests and the service is very friendly so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. We recommend you to book a table in advance. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Fri, Sat. €€ PTAGSW

NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself part of the night‘s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PAEBSW

Olivie D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72, oliviecafe.ru. Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef‘s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it‘s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTAGSW St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants Cafes and Coffee houses Brooklyn Local D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 27, MNevsky

C UISIN E

SKY

pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 89 55. This cafe aspires to recreate the hipster cafe environment of the gentrifying New York borough. They‘ve got the moody black and white urban photos, comic book sheets alluding to Gotham on the walls and classic to go cups, though the staff lacks that aloofness and are genuinely concerned about your experience. Best of all, though, the bagels are damn near perfect. They come lightly toasted, crispy, chewy and slathered with real Philadelphia cream cheese. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. € PSW

BAR

Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23, www.singercafe. ru. In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelmeni. The staff here will actually look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling sometimes too. Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€ PTAGSW Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., tel.

Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, business centre “Arena Hall” tel. +7 (812) 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www. vodkaroom.ru. Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spitand-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-desiècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we‘ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PTAULESW

Asian and Indian King Pong D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. € PTAEGSW Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Egg in Egg

(+7) 812 932 82 17. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on Kazanskaya ul. has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and cookies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. € PAGSW

The signature dish at the Caviar Bar & Restaurant is the intriguingly titled Egg in Egg, which blends hen’s eggs with sturgeon’s roe – or, more precisely, consists of truffle-flavoured scrambled egg, topped with Ossetra caviar and assembled elegantly in a shot glass of sea salt. Caviar is a rare delicacy. It refers to the roe extracted from certain types of sturgeon, fish who can live for over 100 years and who were around 200 million years ago with the dinosaurs. There are references to caviar throughout history. The Persians believed it gave them energy. Batu Khan (grandson of Genghis) is said to have enjoyed it in the 13th century, and Shakespeare alluded to it in ‘Hamlet’ in the 1600s. Russian caviar enjoyed a European resurgence in the 1920s, when Sézar Ritz put it on the menu at his famous Paris hotel, perhaps in deference to the Russians fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution.

and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTALEGSW

Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There‘s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€ PALVSW TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip, modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out, abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies, and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive - notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows, they are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the food as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper sauce, which is something of a small hit here, and also their famous wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don‘t be afraid to ask the waiters to mix you something special. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PALESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants

Caucasian and Central Asian Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr.

30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www. baklazhan.net. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. € PTALVESW

Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€ PTALVESW Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€ PTALVSW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants European

Fine dining

Cafe Berlin D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39,

812 943 23 32. A new café offering the best cuisine, located on the charming little Italyanskaya ulitsa in the central city. The café‘s name is directly connected to Berlin - the world‘s capital of modern art which is known for its lively and energetic atmosphere. Specialising in meals from different countries, the café uniquely presents global trends in cuisine. The freshest oysters and mussels, homemade pasta, burgers, homemade pastry, along with the democratic pricing policy are certain to impress visitors. Cafe Berlin offers classic cocktails, with each drink having an individual approach: rum is poured on the leaves of kaffir lime, gin - on fresh raspberries, bourbon - on cherry. In the morning you can have breakfast or grab a take-away coffee. In the evenings, the latest musical projects from Europe and the USA perform at Cafe Berlin. QOpen 08:30 - 06:00. €€. PAESW

Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. € PTAGSW Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. € PAGSW

The Art of Eating В-3, Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta.com. Located in the basement of the Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup, pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you, especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with fennel, smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has specialised in Mediterranean cuisine. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Tue 12:00 - 17:00. € PTASW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www. thehotelastoria.com. Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova‘ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac‘s Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€€ PTALW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe,

Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe's elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff (made according to the recipe of Baroness Stroganoff herself), but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d'oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city's only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00. QOpen for lunch 12:00 - 15:00, dinner 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PALEW

Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. Entering Legran is like stepping back into a different era. The interior is tastefully laid out in the style of the Italian baroque and the vaulted ceiling creates a novel and appealing environment with a real sense of space and luxury. The staff are attentive and service is efficient. Legran offers a European menu and traditional Russian menu for those who want to treat themselves to full grandeur of Russia’s culinary past. The restaurant is a short walk from the State Hermitage Museum, making it the ideal place to relax with friends and family after a day of culture. Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such as cooking classes, on holidays and weekends.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€ PTASW

L‘Europe D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www. grandhoteleurope.com. Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise for the taste buds. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples. Sunday brunch is also magnifique! Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 - 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€ PTALEW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72 December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€ PTALSW

ITALY Bottega D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group. ru. This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very cozy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is common in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian homemade pasta, delicious pizza and some kinds of risotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section - antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as a takeaway. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €€ PTASW

Schengen E-2, Kirochnaya ul. 5, MChernyshevskaya,

Jamie‘s Italian D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky

tel. (+7) 812 922 11 97. Schengen is a small restaurant with obliging staff and a pleasant atmosphere. Its high wooden ceiling is reminiscent of a country home while ceiling high glass windows give a you an unimpeded view of Kirochnaya ulitsa. Schengen offers a wholesome menu at reasonable prices and makes it a popular location for students wanting to spend a pleasant evening together and families. Located a short distance from Chernyshevskaya metro station, Schengen is close to the Tauride Garden which is worth a stroll any time of year. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing fivecourse special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PTAEW

International Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra

Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PAESW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Teplo C-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 45, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 19 74, www.v-teple.ru. In essence, this is a place that lives up to its name. Meaning warmth in Russian, Teplo is a winner. Things are done here subtly and well. The understated homely decor, the thoroughly intelligent menu, the delightful service all make coming here similar to dropping by your best friend‘s house and having a bite to eat in their lounge room or on their patio or in their kitchen full of freshly baked pies and breads. Indeed wherever you end up eating, you‘ll linger, eat, drink and put off leaving. Q Open 09:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00 € PTASW Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl.,

tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00. Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It‘s not exactly easy to find, but once you do - you can‘t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you‘ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960‘s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beetroot or even any pickles that they produce themselves. All these things are nicely introduced with the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled eggs or fried green beans which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar also offers hip cocktails and irresistible desserts, which are worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PTAESW

Italian Il Lago dei Cigni A-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKre-

stovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. Q PTAESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. There are restaurants which carry this name in more than 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind – it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and people are hard at work in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PTALSW

Makaronniki C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki. ru. A rooftop restaurant atop a business centre adjacent to Zenit‘s current stadium, Makaronniki gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their summer terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sandbox for the kids. As for the food, when getting out of the lift you‘re immediately assaulted by the heavily aromas of bubbling Italian sauces and spices coming from the open kitchen next to the hostess podium. Their small menu boasts delectable pizzas, a slew of pasta options and soups and salads for the light eaters, plus daily specials. Wine and cocktails are equally varied and delicious, particularly the jugs of homemade lemonade and Sangria. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€ PTALSW Palermo E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone‘s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel.

(+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. € PTASW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants Rubinshteina Street Ulitsa Rubinshteina is today known for its plethora of diverse bars, cafes, and restaurants and there is even talk of making it a pedestrian zone, one of the few such places in the city centre. Initially an alley that appeared in the 1740s, it received the name of Troitksy pereulok in 1798, before its upgrade to the status of Troitskaya ul. in 1887. It was renamed in honour of composer Anton Rubinshtein (1829-1894) in 1929. He lived for a number o f yea r s a t h o u s e 3 8. Considered one of the 19th Painting by Ilya Repin, 1915 century’s premiere piano virtuosos and the author of 20 operas, he also founded the St. Petersburg Conservatory (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow Conservatory). At the beginning of the street if walking away from the McDonald’s on Nevsky (for your reference: odd-numbered buildings will be on your right and even-numbered ones on the left) is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey Aleksandrovich (House 1), the boarding houses of P.K. Palkin (4) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a rather new structure, having been built by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an early constructivist style by architect Andrey Ol (7). Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous for lifting the spirits of Leningrad residents through radio addresses during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. She called it the “most absurd building in St. Petersburg”. It is called Dom-kommuna inzhenirov i pisateley (Communal House of Engineers and Writers), and informally known as Sleza sotsializma (the tears of socialism). This is a classic example of socialist housing philosophy as these domkommuna buildings were supposed to become the norm for the proletarian idea of the communisation of everyday life. Living in such communal spaces was intended to be a method for killing the habits of individualism prevalent before the Revolution. Originally there were 52 apartments, a shower at the end of each hall, and no kitchens. A cafeteria was located on site. As a specific trend, it waned by the end of the 1930s. Across the street at the corner of Grafsky pereulok (18) is the Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky Teatr, where a theatrical museum and library is also currently housed. This building was constructed in 1837, and

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants reconstructed in 1899 by architect Aleksandr Fon Gogen (1856-1914) who himself lived at this address for ten years. The building is also the former boarding house of Levky Zheverzheev, who is also the founder of the museum and library housed here. Following up on the right is the boarding and meeting house of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Many different institutions were located in this building over the years, including the St. Petersburg Assembly of Artists, the head office of the Journal of the Ministry of the People’s Enlightenment, the Arctic Society, the St. Petersburg Drama Society, a gymnasium, theatre director Vsevolod Meyerhold’s studio, and in Soviet times a school. Beginning in 1981, it also was the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicentre of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by the KGB, it was the first legal rock music venue in the city and legendary bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium performed there regularly. Today it houses the children’s musical theatre, Zerkalo. The next building is the boarding house of count Mikhail Tolstoy (1845-1913), designed in the Nordic National Romantic Style (15-17). Tolstoy was a hero of the RussianTurkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built just before his death between 1910-1912. The design of this building is quite complex with three arches that lead through separate courtyards from Rubinshteina to the Fontanka Canal. Over the years many television programmes and movies have been filmed in these courtyards. Among the many famous people that have resided in this building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012), the Soviet crooner who became famous in the last years of his life for the Youtube sensation, Trololo.

Restaurants on Rubinshteina street Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)

812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya). Q Open 24hrs. € PTASW

Mops E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 572 38 34, www.mopscafe.ru. The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is truly exquisite. The Thai décor offers a combination of hectic and clean lines; tigers hold light fittings in their mouths; giant roses adorn the ceiling and colourful miniature elephants stand in neat rows. The restaurant’s Thai chef who produces authentic, unadulterated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains. They also have delicious cocktails. The restaurant offers a range of banquette options and includes artistic performances plus a well-equipped karaoke room. Q Open 14:00 - 01:00. Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€ PAS

Stopka - Small vodka glass

Music&Bar MOPS VIP-Karaoke Club Thai cuisine restaurant address: Saint-Petersburg, Rubinshteina str.12 tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90, +7 (921)961-92-21 Two famous writers lived in building 23: Soviet science fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) and journalist and writer Sergey Dovlatov (1941-1990). Yefremov is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which tells the story of a communist utopia set far in the future. Dovlatov lived in this building in a communal apartment for several decades before immigrating to the United States in the late 1970s. Known for his clear depictions of Soviet life and its absurdities, he was influential in samizdat (self-published works) in the Soviet Union, and helped put Russian New York on the literary map. Most often compared to Anton Chekhov, his wit and insights have made him a very popular author, available in probably every bookstore in the country. A plaque honours his memory here. Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova) to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection in all of St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he was arrested during the Great Purges in 1937. He was executed the following February.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pepper Moon E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/ peppermoon. From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your table. The menu offers European dishes, as well as Asian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. Note the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. You can choose what you want, and how it is cooked. In the morning, Pepper Moon serves a good breakfast of porridge, cheese cakes, pancakes, and fried eggs. Q €€ PTASW Shchastye (Happiness) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17,

MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www. schaste-est.com. That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. European cuisine.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

SoUsy E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 947 35 72. It has an unusual format for a restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six dishes, salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be served a set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on the menu, and you can order any one you like separately) to complement each dish. In the background, they exclusively play classical music, and there is a string quartet every evening. European cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW

Thai-SPA therapists Best Royal school Vat Po Bo Ran massage technique Thai luxury SPA cosmetics Ytsara Steam sauna with Thai herbals address: Saint-Petersburg, Rubinshteina str.12 tel.: +7(911)928-44-50

December 2013 - January 2014

Restaurants

Winter Food Festivals

Beer Restaurants and Pubs

Whet your appetite this winter and prepare for a season of fine food and activities. This winter St. Petersburg is home to two great food festivals. St. Petersburg’s first Winter Restaurant Festival runs through December and those of you who find the Russian winter hard to survive this festival will furnish you with just the skills you need to not only survive the winter but to come out of it feeling as jolly as Ded Moroz. The festival consists of a series of master-classes run by the city’s top chefs at restaurants around the city. The master classes are completely free and are a great opportunity to learn some of the tricks of the trade for fine dining at home, as well as some generally sound advice for those of us who struggle with boiling pelmeni. www.resfest.ru After you have tried your hand at cooking you might like to drop by the Piterland Shopping Centre (Primorsky pr. 72, metro Staraya Derevnya) and check out the Oda! Eda! festival on 13-15 December. This is a food fair extravaganza with a market featuring food from all over the world to inspire still greater efforts in the kitchen (and if you are still struggling with the pelmeni, a good way to add variety to your diet!). Along with great food the festival is packed with fun activities for you and your family so you work of those delicious calories by enjoying the festive season at a skating rink, playing air hockey or having a chat with a talking moon! The festival also has lectures from leading figures in St. Petersburg’s food industry, and master classes for preparing the perfect Christmas meal. There's plenty of fun for the kids as well, so make a family event of the occasion. www. facebook.com/odaedablog

(+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they‘ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you‘ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW

Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel.

Craft Bier Cafe E-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.craftpub. ru. Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft‘s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. The interior is impressive, with a large bar and a separate room with ample space for large groups to make themselves at home. Often special beers are on offer and if you find it hard to choose (at least 200 bottled beers are available as well), Sergey will be happy to provide you with his advice. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW

Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW Manneken Pis Moskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy,

tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 11 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. €€. PAGW

Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel.

(+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW

Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya,

40 beers on tap Over 200 bottled beers Sunday beer brunch Daily beer degustation

William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss-

Join us and find your own beer! Gagarinskaya ulitsa 6, + 7 812 983 55 59, www.craftpub.ru St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€ PTAEGSW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. Another local homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Bringing In The Beer If you are looking for a beer with culture you can taste you can’t beat a Belgium brew. Belgium beer is older than the country itself. The first brews were made by Cistercian monks at the time of the First Crusade at the end of the 11th century. Back than the low alcohol beer was considered a healthy alternative to water – something which most visitors might well appreciate! The monks brewed the beer to support their monasteries. The history of modern Belgium brews begins in the 17th century when the abbot at La Trappe Monastery in France decided the Cistercian’s were becoming too libertine and set down a strict code for brewing beer and staying seriously devout. With the French Revolution many of these devout and devoted brewers fled to Belgium – where beer is appreciated regardless of religious affiliation. The monks established a national tradition of fine beer. Another feature of Belgium beer is that it is served in a range of goblets and chalices. These ornate glasses give you a novel drinking experience. The beer produced by these monks is known as ‘Trappist’ beer and is considered one of the best brews around. The proceeds of all Trappist beers go to supporting monasteries and charitable organisations. So next time you want to treat yourself to some high quality beer, look out for a Belgium brew, it’ll taste good, has class, and you’re helping to make the world a better place.

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – Two beers please! December 2013 - January 2014

nightlife

Restaurants

Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island Vasilevsky Island is located at the mouth of Neva River – one of the many islands that make up St. Petersburg. The Strelka (arrow) spit of the island gives great views of the Winter Palace and Peter and Paul Fortress and is the ideal location to capture images of these magnificent buildings. It is also a frequent photo stop for newly weds.

Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€ PTASW 1

Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Churchkhela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building above a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard to find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was helpful, supplying an English menu and recommending dishes. They have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty meals and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well as a business lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Overall the restaurant is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and somewhere to return to! A welcome addition to this part of the city. Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW Lapsha C-2, Kadetskaya liniya 9A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 920 44 14, www.probka.org. The first thing that grabs your attention upon entering Lapsha (Noodles) is the designer interior. The white walls, trendy furniture and a red scooter in the corner provide clients with a fresh, chic place to have a meal. The menu, while rather small, covers Chinese, Thai, Indian and Italian cuisines. The chicken curry, Pad Thai and dim sum are among Lapsha’s specialties. All items on the menu are marked for their level of spiciness, but, conveniently, all dishes can be spiced to order. Italian pasta dishes provide options for those who are not so fond of Asian cuisine and a children’s menu gives picky children something to eat.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVSW Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW

Wild Duck B-2, 7-ya liniya 72/17, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 80 88, www.wildduck.su. Any place that has an actual live duck walking around cannot be bad. Luckily, it is a tame one and it only ads to the already warm and cosy interior of the Wild Duck pub. This place does what it has to do and does it well. The food is good (a lot of duck dishes), the beers are cold and the wine-list is sound with a few prizes among them. The interior is spacious and offers different types of seating, the middle room is really impressive, with the fireplace, the wooden chandelier and a world map on the floor. They recently celebrated their two-year anniversary and we can only hope it keeps up for many years to come. Wild Duck is located a short walk from Vasilevsky metro station and works well as a restaurant or as a great place to grab a few beers with some finger-food while watching soccer. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€. PAEW 2

The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!

Bars and Pubs BARSLONA E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, www.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and flavoursome. The Barslona brand has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PASW Dunes on Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky pr. 50/11, MPl. Vosstaniya. The location backs up against Moscow train station - not that you‘ll hear many whistles or departure announcements what with the rock ‚n‘ soul on the stereo, lively conversation and game playing going on around you. There are seating palettes and rugs for the sand, a decked patio with the more traditional picnic tables and chairs, blankets for everyone on chilly evenings and a bright, rainbow-hued, retro-styled interior for inclement weather. As the day wears into night, the beers start to dominate and the laid-back atmosphere becomes positively boisterous. Excellent shashlik, grenki and hot dogs available at all hours. Q Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. EBW Helsinki Bar C-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that‘s the case if you were Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafe-bar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW Terminal Bar E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 13a, MVladimirskaya,

1 2

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23. The friendly owners here, who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A simple but clean bar, chatty staff and a good mix of happy regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Nightlife Clubs Dacha D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr.. This place

gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Night Life – Keeping safe A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and keep it safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks. Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you.

Nightlife Fever D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www.karaokebarfever.ru. With the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. From the drinks menu to the 500Rbl songs everything in the joint in fact screams spending money is being glamourous. That being said, the sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it‘s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if less than talented, take to the mike. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW

Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Cocktail bars Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW Daiquiri Bar D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW The Office: Nargilia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 30A, 4th floor,

MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 980 76 46, www.nargilia. ru. Entering Nargilia you will immediately be greeted by the smell of scented tobacco. This establishment caters for those who like the idea of spending an evening in the company of friends while smoking a hookah (kalyan). Nargilia has two seating areas, one where you can recline on bean-bags, the other where you sit at tables. The hookahs come in different size and shapes, some look as though they are straight from the Arabian Nights, others look like they have are the invention of a genius alchemist. Nargilia has a small selection of food, alcohol and tea but the reason people come here is to smoke. Background music includes electronica with a whiff of trance. The minimum table charge is 2000Rbl. To find Nargilia turn into the courtyard from Ulitsa Rubenshteina and then turn immediately left when you reach the courtyard. Q Open 24hrs. PAW

Tsvetochki E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PABW

Rugby House Pub Rugby House Pub F-3, Poltavskaya ul. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 95 49, www.rugbyhouse.ru. Bound to be a favorite among sports fans in general and rugby fans in particular, the recently opened Rugby House Pub fills in a void in the city. The only place where rugby is shown on large screens and where the multilingual owners are big fans. The bar serves regular and tasty pub food for very reasonable prices and there is a good choice of beers on tap available as well. A fun place really, quickly discovered by Russian and foreign rugby fans and it seems to become the perfect home base for them. They also have some board games for you to play on quieter days. This pub is centrally located, a short walk from the Moscow Railway station. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. €. PAW St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

sightseeing

sightseeing Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,

St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Monastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.

kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.

3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-

Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314

Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y

Hermitage

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

December 2013 - January 2014

sightseeing Churches and Monasteries Chesma Church Ul. Lens-

sightseeing Museums

Modern Art Centres

Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV-

Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

oveta 12, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.

ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum. ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs-

43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.

St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Iz-

mailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.

Vladimirsky Cathedral D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladi-

mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor. spb.ru. There are usually crowds of beggars and pensioners selling antiques at the entrance of this striking onion-domed church on Vladimirsky prospekt. The Icons on the second floor are worth seeing and the interiors are breathtaking. It‘s said that in communist times, an underwear factory operated in this cathedral. In 1990, it reopened as a church. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.

Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). State Museum of Political History of Russia

D-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. The State Museum of the Political History of Russia is the successor to the Revolution Museum. It is housed in two historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the ballerina M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The new exposition ‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man and the state at the crucial moments in the history of the country. The period of the revolution between 1917 and 1922 is presented in the exposition ‘February of 1917. The Breakdown of the Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms ‘Lenin’s Study’ and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Committee of Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exposition ‘The Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The exposition ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.

Lyrical City F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum E-3, Kuzhnechny

per. 5/2, M Vladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk y‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apar tment and belongings). The audioguide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

St. Petersburg City Card Where ever you see this logo Y, it means you can get a discount or a free entrance at this venue with the Petersburg card. Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and discounts to many things this city has to offer, including museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years! Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 1800Rbl, 3 days (72 hours) - 2500Rbl, or 5 days (120 hours) - 3300Rbl, and begins after the first visit to a museum or a tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City Card’ office in St. Petersburg, via the website, or in some hotels and Post Offices of the city (the complete list is available on the website).

Literature Museum C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, MSport-

ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, www.pushkinskijdom. ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian writers Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group.

Soviet Arcade Machines Museum of Soviet arcade machines D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2B, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 981 185 56 35, www.15kop.ru. This ‘museum’ highlights a part of Soviet Russia you would never thought existed – arcade games. The museum consists of a range of games dating to the late 1970s and 80s. Many of these appear to have been western counterparts. There are a couple of different shooting and sniper games. There is car racing, table hockey and submarine games where you attempt to torpedo ships. This is an interesting place to stop by and explore, especially if you want to reminisce about the good old 1980s or curious about what you missed out. The entrance is through a passageway into a courtyard from Kanal Griboedova. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 350Rbl.

Dva Bileta Pazhalusta! – Two tickets please! st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

sightseeing

sightseeing Pushkin

Further Afield

The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.

Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better weekend escape than spending some time at one of the many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the oncoming year. If you are tired of being cooped up at your apartment or in the office then head out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow fight. Dress warmly and have fun in snow.

Oranienbaum

Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis.

Peterhof

Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note than in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends.

Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl. Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online. Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists. Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the 18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk

Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.

Pavlovsk

Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum

Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the Peterhof highway. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.

December 2013 - January 2014

shopping Raketa Watches Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com

Ballerina Watch The ‘Ballerina’ watch’s design was inspired by the world famous Russian ballet and theatre. The red stars on the ‘Ballerina’ watch’s face refer to the ruby stars that were produced at the factory in 1934, and which adorn the tops of the Kremlin’s towers. Raketa watches have different designs on the back, and the ‘Ballerina’ watch features a unique bird and floral design. There are six strap options for the watch, including a genuine leather red strap, which matches the red stars, a white genuine leather strap to match the white dial option, a black genuine leather strap to match the black dial option, and a gold coloured stainless steel bracelet strap, which will delight everyone who loves timeless style. The ‘Ballerina’ watch is the epitome of the reliability of Raketa watches, the beauty of Russian women, and the glory of the Russian ballet.

Babochka multibrand boutiques:

Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. www.babochka.ru.

Status watch shops:

Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 www.status-watch.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Shopping Gifts and Souvenirs

Galeria Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.

(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasil-

eostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. This is one-stop shopping for all your souvenir needs, whether it‘s a handful of matroshka magnets for acquaintances back home or that upscale, unique piece of hand-painted lacquer for someone special. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special winter gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following:

Bosco Sport E-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

812 314 23 37, www.boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

Chocolate Museum D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. This designer-chocolate boutique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS Exclusive Amber Collection D-3, Passage shopping

centre, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 961 35 14, www.amber-collection.ru. Here you can find all manner of products made from natural amber (rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and much more). Also on sale are icons, paintings and amber containing fossils. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A

Bookshops Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Shopping centres DLT Department store В-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Russian Winter Souvenirs

La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel,

Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. The gallery‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contemporary styles. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Onegin Art Gallery D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, famous Russian porcelain as well as traditional St. Petersburg themed paraphernalia. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. This is the shop to go to if you are interested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their designs feature many variations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals for children. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Platok

Shapka ushanka

I f you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops for a hefty price.

Valenki

Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware that are specially designed for walking in deep snow. They usually have no firm rubber soles ( just the basic shape of a boot) so if you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber kaloshes to cover them with to ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, it is said that they are so warm and well insulated that you can wear them with no socks on. In fact wearing them without socks is said to be good for you as the rough wool exfoliates the skin.

Vodka and Caviar

They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russk y standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

December 2013 - January 2014

expat and Lifestyle

expat AND Lifestyle International Schools/Pre-schools

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections.

German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Accountants and Lawyers Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen

09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)

D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

Clinics and Hospitals Business associations SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky

pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Relocation and Supplies AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cultural Centres and Libraries American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library

E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Raznochinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU

Entertainment Centres Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Divo Ostrov B-1, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 97 07, www.divo-ostrov.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00 Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAG Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW

Exhibition centers LenExpo trade fair B-3, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, MPri-

morskaya, tel. (+7) 812 321 26 15, www.lenexpo.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. SKK trade complex Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 12 11, www.spbckk.ru.

Fryday Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see www.facebook.com/fryday. saintpetersburg.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Russian for Expats Gotov' sani letom, a telegu zimoi – Ready your cart in Winter and your sled in the summer.

It probably comes as no surprise that the Russian people know a thing or two about living through winter. So, this proverb will come in handy this holiday season. It comes from the early days before machines made life much more convenient. In those days, you used horses to pull your carts in summer and your sleds in winter. This meant things took much more time to do than they do now. So, it was crucial to always be prepared for the next season while still in the present one.

Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Religious Services As the Russian Orthodox Church uses a different calendar to its western counterparts, Christmas falls on January 07 in Russia. However, that does not mean that Christians of other denominations will not be able to celebrate Christmas and enjoy religious services here on December 25. There are in fact many different churches in St. Petersburg dedicated to different western Christian communities.

Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www. swedenabroad.com.

Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru.

Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru.

Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)

812 272 04 42, www.kovensky.ru.

St. Michael‘s Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, www.stmihail.ru.

December 2013 - January 2014

Getting Around

expat AND Lifestyle

Leaving St. Petersburg By Plane St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.

Public transport and Taxis

The Expat Experience Interview with Ingrid van Veen, General Manager of the Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport. Please tell us something about yourself. I was born in the South of Holland, very close to the border of Germany. Within a year after my birth we moved to the East of Holland where I spent the largest part of my childhood. When I was 18 I moved out of the house and went to college in the very North of Holland. I studied Hospitality Management and graduated with a bachelor degree in 1995. At the end of my studies I moved to the USA to do my intern ship for one year. I stayed a few months longer to travel around the country. This is also where I met my husband, he is American. I moved back to the Netherlands with the intention to return to the USA but when it appeared to be difficult in terms of VISA requirements, I decided to find a job in the Netherlands. My husband decided to move to the Netherlands as well and that is where we have had our careers till we moved to St.Petersburg in September of this year. Before I came here, I was General Manager of the Crowne Plaza Amsterdam-South. I opened this hotel 2 years ago and after it was opened and running well, I had this great opportunity to move to St.Petersburg to the Crowne Plaza at the Pulkovo Airport. You just arrived in St. Petersburg, what are your first impressions? A great city with lots of culture, history and interesting places to visit. It is a huge city, especially if you compare it to Amsterdam but it doesn't 'feel' as big as it is in reality. When I am in the historic city centre, I walk a lot. I love the big parks! Did you visit Russia in the past? When was that and how was it like? I was here in the summer for the first time, during the white nights. It was a great experience, seeing so much active life going on late at night. The weather was amazing and I was positively surprised about it.

the people seem more distance but once you get to know each other it is sincere and intense. You have to take time to explore and to get to know the culture, although that counts for every country. Obviously I am still exploring since I have een here just for three months. What was the most unexpected thing you have encountered in your first months here? It actually was in my first week here. During the G20, Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport had the honour to welcome the President of the USA, Mr. Obama, in the hotel for a meeting. I thought that was a very exceptional, unexpected and unusual experience. How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg? Walking around the city and parks, exploring different parts, biking in more quiet parts of the city (yes, as being Dutch I could not leave my bike behind). I also like to try different restaurants and experience the Russian cuisine and hopefully in the next month I will be able to visit some of the famous museums. The past weeks I have been occupied arranging everything for the move to our apartment. Now things are settling down more, I hope to find more time to explore this great city! What is on your definite to-do list for the comings months? Visit the Hermitage!

Three Short Questions Describe yourself in three words. Optimistic, People person, traveller If you were stuck on a desert island, what food would you have with you? Pasta! Favourite spot in the city you have discovered so far. The park at Peterhof

Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.

Buses City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno-

go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

How would you compare Russia to other countries you worked and/or lived (or to the Netherlands)? I think a big difference is that in Russia it is very much about building good relationships and not too judge quickly. In Holland we can be quick in opinions and judgements, we are known for being very direct. This is different in Russia,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, www.taxi7000000.ru

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-

iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

Getting around Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking

Gde…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto

Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchyon Ne kurit Не курить

December 2013 - January 2014

GETTING AROUND

GETTING AROUND Street Register 1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Fontanky reky nab. D-2/D-3/E-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3 Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3

Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3 Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 Abbreviations Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt Pl. – Ploshchad Bul. – Bulvar Per. – Pereulok Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya

This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Slippery Streets As the colder weather blows in beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Russian women to navigate the icy streets in 6-inch heels may seem like the eighth wonder of the world to most foreigners. But they have had a lot of training. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick to comfortable shoes with good grip.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a name? It was only in the 1760s that Nevsky Prospekt got its current name. With Peter the Great still alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it became Nevsky Prospekt. The communists decided to name the famous thoroughfare after the revolution: the 25th of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught on and they had to stick with the Nevsky moniker instead.

Find our review on page 28

Find our review on page 32

Find our review on page 41

The

OFFICE Find our review on page 32

Find our review on page 41

Russia

Moscow History

Introduction Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometers large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment – and attention – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not at a pace with the largest cities, it is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Winter is a magical time of year as the ice covers rivers and lakes and snow falls down on the cupolas of Russia’s ancient churches. It is also the time of ice-swimming, ice-fishing and warming up in banyas (Russian sauna). In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, and an additional four provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other cities are: Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia's early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin. In this issue you can read about Petrozavodsk, a city located in the beauty of Karelian wilderness and Kostroma, an historical city of contrasts. We also include Sochi, the hosty city of the 2014 Winter Olympics. Enjoy!

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.

GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red

Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.

The Kremlin Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.

The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open

10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

Inside the Kremlin

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia's Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin's robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.

Getting There Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

russia.inyourpocket.com St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Moscow

Veliky Novgorod

Soviet sightseeing

Russian Art

As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such as the iconic ‘seven sisters’ skyscrapers which are dotted around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Russian Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), where giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments to workers and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss out on a visit to the nearby Cosmonautics museum which boasts such historic memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, along with the pods they flew to space in.

For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl. Cosmonautics Museum Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val

10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Literature and Theatre Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Enjoy the great outdoors Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds.

Hotels Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under

arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. ru. hhh

www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Veliky Novgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod Kremlin

The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.

Hotels Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2,

tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art nightclub‘. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh

Restaurants and Cafes Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. You can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW

New Year In Ancient Rus If you fancy skipping out on seeing in the New Year in the big city you might want to consider heading out to the ancient Russian capital of Veliky Novgorod instead. The medieval city whose history dates back to the 9th Century will be having a traditional New Year street party with dancing around the giant Christmas tree in the Kremlin square, live music and games. In addition there will be fairground attractions, traditional Russian activities for the kiddies and other entertainment in the surrounding park throughout the New Year period from December 30th until January 8th.

Getting There By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky

Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky station). By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses (journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours and costs 370Rbl.

December 2013 - January 2014

Sochi

sochi Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW

Sochi Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten thousand residents, a small expat community is working hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature of 23 degrees. The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.

Getting There Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say from experience. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 per day. The trains leave from different train stations (al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg takes between 37 and 57 hours. By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built along the coast. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard. When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport stadiums and high-speed railways.

Hotels Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, it will be hard to find them on the internet.

Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). PHA6ULGKDCSwW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Estosadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a threestar hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6UFLGKDwW Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� GKDCwW

Restaurants Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,

www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW

Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,

www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW

Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862

266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW

Sochi is the capital of the Winter Olympics 2014 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s airport, set amid magnificent scenery. It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively brief, from late December to April, but staff say the last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of the great outdoors. In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.

Pomegranate Explosive! Try this freshly squeezed juice upon arrival in Sochi to boost your energy. You will see it being sold everywhere, at the local markets, and even along the beaches. Special juicing machines have been made to crush the pomegranates (you can buy one of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine.

December 2013 - January 2014

Petrozavodsk

Petrozavodsk Sightseeing

Kizhi Open-Air Museum

While the excursions to the local islands are the main attraction, the city centre also has a lot to interest the tourist. The embankment is the first port of call, as you’ll naturally want to see Lake Onega, but some architectural details are also not to be missed. You can spot some opposite the Severnaya Hotel on your way down Prospect Lenina. To get an idea of the founding of Petrozavodsk, head to the 18th century adminstrative buildings on Lenin Square. The art museum is also well worth a look if you want to see modern Karelian culture.

Embankment. A stroll on the embankmentis a must. Lined

with sculptures donated from Petrozavodsk‘s twinned towns, promenade along here to watch the boats and gaze at the misty hills on the other side of Lake Onega. On the eastern side, asculpture of Peter the Great eternally points towards the town, ordering it to be built.

Petrozavodsk

Hotels

Known in Finnish as “Petroskoi”, Petrozavodsk is the capital of the independent republic of Karelia, a region with a unique Finno-Russian culture. It’s location on Lake Onega, the second-largest lake in Europe, makes it the ideal stopping-off point for visits to Kizhi island, a unique openair museum, displaying the wonders of Northern Russian wooden architecture. The iconic wooden Transfiguration church and other period log buildings are protected by UNESCO as objects of cultural importance. Lake Ladoga nearby is home to the Valaam Monastery, and the Solovestskie Islands in the White Sea, home to a tragic history as a monastery and then labour camp, are also accessible from Petrozavodsk. The city’s name derives from Petrovsky Zavod (Peter’s Factory), as it was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great as a location for his iron foundry at the time of the Great Northern War with Sweden. During the Occupation War (1941-44), the city was occupied by Finnish troops for three years before being won back by the Red Army. The neo-classical architecture and sculpture-lined embankment mean that the town is more than provincial, with plentiful opportunities to take advantage of the Karelian forests for walking, hunting, and fishing. From Petrozavodsk you can reach the famous islands of Kizhi, Valaam and the Solovetskie islands.

Park Inn by Radisson Petrozavodsk Pl. Gagarina 1, tel. (+7) 814 271 70 70, www.parkinn.com/hotelpetrozavodsk. This hotel complex blends Park Inn‘s “live well, sleep well” motto with the luxury knowledge of the Radisson group. Situated right next to the railway station, the hotel is perfect for business clientele, with six meeting rooms, including a large conference hall that seats 200, whose glass windows offer natural daylight and splendid views down to the lake. Rooms are ultra modern, with Swedish design to match the northern location. Munich‘s celebrated Paulaner brewers are opening a two-floor restaurant downstairs, with four types of beer brewed on site and live entertainment from local jazz and folk groups. The hotel‘s 24 hour gym and free high-speed WiFi ensure the high quality of this international brand. Q180 rooms (Room prices start at 4,050Rbl). PTHAUFKW

Getting There By train: You can reach Petrozavodsk by train from both Moscow and St. Petersburg. There are four everyday trains from the Moscow Lenigradsky railway station (Metro Komsomolskaya.) The overnight trains are at 20:30, arriving 09:45, and 21:20, arriving at 12:18. Prices vary from 1,500 (third class) to 2,500Rbl (second class). From St. Petersburg here are three trains daily, with the best overnight option being 22:02 - 06:40 unless you want to arrive in the middle of the night or travel all day. By plane: Petrozavodsk has an airport, although be warned that there have been recent fatal accidents in the Russian North.

Petrozavodsk Tourist Information

Tourist Information Centre, Ul. Kuibysheva 5.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Lenin Square (Pl. Lenina). Once named the ‘Round Square,‘ which is only a paradox in the English language, this circular square was built in 1775 and is the centre of historical Petrozavodsk. The classical two-storey buildings, painted in the pale-yellow seen all over Russia, once housed the Gubernial Chancellery and other 18th century administrative buildings. Museum of Fine Art of the Republic of Karelia Pr. Karla Marxa 8, tel. (+7) 814 278 37 13, artmuseum.karelia.ru. This wonderful art museum on Kirova Square has an outstanding collection, from icons displaying the Northern russian tradition of painting, to their unique collection of twentieth-century local paintings, with some exquisite landscapes depicting the beauty of Karelian nature.Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 750Rbl for adults, 100Rbl for special exhibitions.

The highlight of any visit to Karelia, Kizhi open-air museum is a magical mix of architectural and ethnographic wonder. Russia is famed for the expansiveness of its forests, which gave rise to the inventiveness of the Northern craftsmen. They used their expertise at carving wood to build not only sheds, barns and cowsheds, but houses, chapels and churches. Kizhi island is the place where the varied marvels of Northern Russian wooden architecture have come to rest from villages and hamlets in the Onega Lake area, which numbers over 1650 islands. The iconic Transfiguration Church is famous for being built ‘without a single nail‘, that is to say, the structure is entirely made from wood. The magnificent structure rises from the island like a lofty tree, its twenty-two onion domes seeming to crown it like pine cones. Culturally and architecturally unique, It was added to Unesco‘s World Heritage list in 1990. The art of Karelian wood-carving can also be seen upon visiting the peasant houses on the island.

Restaurants and Cafes Café Kivach Pr. Lenina 28. This café is unsurprisingly popular with students, being located opposite the university building. Decent pizza and pasta dishes.

Deja-Vu Bistro Pr. Lenina 20, www.dejavu.petrofood. ru. Opposite the Severnaya Hotel, this place is perfect to stop off at if you get tired on the long walk down Prospect Lenina to the lake. Essentially French-inspired, there is also classic beef stroganoff and pasta dishes. Fregat Restaurant-Club Pr. Karla Marxa 1, tel. (+7) 814 279 64 98. This café is an ideal spot for breakfasting if you have an early boat trip to Kizhi, as from the veranda you can watch the terminal to make sure you don‘t miss your lime-green Kometa.A range of essentially French cuisine, they also have a range of local dishes, including deer with forest berries from 390Rbl. Karelskaya Gornitsa Ul. Engelsa 13, tel. (+7) (814) 278 53 00, www.gornica.ru. The creation of Finnish head chef Tarmo Vasenius, this restaurant is unique in serving Karelian cuisine. The great Karelian lakes provide the menu with a lot of fish, as well as wild animal meat, such as bear and deer, mushrooms from the forest, and drinks made from cowberry (brusnika) and cloudberry (moroshka). Gornitsa is an attraction in itself, designed to look like a Karelian peasant izba (house) with wood, samovars, and the red and white embroidered cloth that is traditional in the area. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

KOSTROMA

Kostroma

Sightseeing

Kostroma is a city of contrasts: a mere six hours from Moscow it is filled with ancient monasteries, hip bars and unusual museums. Kostroma has something for everyone looking for the Russia of new and old. The three main figures of Kostroma that the visitor will constantly encounter are Ostrovsky, Susanin and Snegurochka, the ice maiden whose ubiquitous presence ensures that the little ones will be entertained. Kostroma supposedly takes its name from an ancient Slavic goddess associated with spring and fertility and the worship of this deity was a major festival in ancient Russia. Once upon a time it was the name for a linen doll, the history of which can be found at the Museum of Linen and Birchbark. Kostroma is most famous as being the city where Mikhail Romanov set out to Moscow from to claim his throne, ending the Time of Troubles and ushering in the Romanov Dynasty.

Ipatievsky Monastery Ul. Prosveshcheniya 1, tel.

Hotels Golden Ring Hotel Ul. Nizhnyaya Debrya 104, tel. (+7) 494 262 24 44, kostroma-goldenring.ru. Q 33

rooms (Room prices start at 2,700Rbl). Extra bed 700Rbl. PALKW Ipatievskaya Sloboda Beregovaya ul. 3a, tel. (+7) 494 237 12 24, www.i-sloboda.ru. Q19 rooms (Room prices start at 1,600Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast 200Rbl. PK Verba Rabochy pr. 7, tel. (+7) 494 255 28 91. Q13 rooms (Room prices start at 1,000Rbl). PT6NW Volga Yunosheskaya ul. 1, tel. (+7) 494 239 42 41, www.gkvolga.ru. Q 209 rooms (Room prices start at 1,800Rbl). Extra bed 780Rbl. PTA6ULGDW

Getting There By train: From St. Petersburg there is the daily train

95 at 17:40 from Moskovsky train station that gets in at 09:02 the next morning. Coming back take train 95 leaving at 18:22 and getting in at 11:15 the following morning. Tickets run 2,200 - 3,900Rbl each way.

By plain: There is a tiny airport called Sokerkino which has

flights leaving from St. Petersburg on Friday and Sunday at 18:50 and leaving from Kostroma on Fridays and Sundays at 15.30. There are also flights to St. Petersburg at 08:05 and to Kostroma at 12:00 on Wednesdays. For more information see kostroma-avia.ru/services/timetable/.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 494 231 75 91, www.ipatievsky-monastery.ru. Kostromaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s main attraction, this is where a young Mikhail Romanov was holed up before going to Moscow to ascend the throne of Tsar. Founded around 1330, over the years the monastery has played host to Catherine the Great and Nicholas II. Unlike most monasteries, the Ipatievsky is no nonsense being centred on two main exhibits: the Troitsky Cathedral and The Romanov Chambers. We have seen many churches in our day, but the Troitsky is impressive, extraordinarily well preserved in a mid-17th century Moscow style and doused in gold, its walls covered in frescoes and holy depictions and covered by a five-domed roof. The young Mikhail Romanov lived with his mother in the Chambers until 1613. Q Admission 80Rbl.

Museum of Wooden Architecture Ul. Prosvesh-

cheniya 1, tel. (+7) 494 237 38 72, w w w.kmtn. ru/~kossloboda. Just down the road from the Ipatievsky Monastery is another unique museum, officially called the Komstromskaya Sloboda. Designed to recreate a Kostroma area village from the 19th century, this open-air museum features 30 wooden buildings, brought in from around the Kostroma region. It features various structures including homes of the rich and poor, as well as religious buildings and astonishingly, none of the buildings used a nail in their construction. Q Admission 80Rbl.

The Museum of Linen and Birchbark Ul. Tereshkovoi

38, tel. (+7) 494 231 05 89, www.linenmuseum.ru. Most tour groups will make a stop here to see this museum dedicated to traditional Russian handicrafts. When we went we were treated to a wonderful excursion led by a teenager attired in traditional peasant dress. There are three halls, although the third one is a basement shop. The halls show the wonder that is Russian handicrafts made of birchbark and linens. The local favorite, Snegurochka, is on prominent display as are many creations featuring the likenesses of heroes and villains from Russian folktales. Q Open 09:30 18:00. Admission 70Rbl.

Moose Farm Kostroma Oblast, Sumarokovo village, tel.

(7) 494 235 94 33, www.loseferma.ru. One of Kostromaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s quirkiest exhibits is located about 20 km from the centre. An experimental farm founded in the Soviet times where the moose has been domesticated (as much as that is possible). Way back in Tsarist times there were moose domestication advocates, yet it was not until 1963 that this moose farm was founded. Today the moose wander the grounds of the farm and produce milk and antler velvet.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com