St. Petersburg In Your Pocket February-March 2014 by Russia In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. petersburg February - March 2014

The Olympics Sochi is ready!

Celebrations!

Valentine's Day, Maslenitsa, Women's Day and more

New Horizons

Discover the best panoramic view in the city

February - March 2014 N o93 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents Restaurants

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Foreword

Concerts and exhibitions

Shopping

What to buy and where

Expat and Lifestyle 51 Expat experience, religious services and more

8 11

Transport, tickets and more 53 Maps 54

Features 14 16

Hotels

20 24 25

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The Olympics 2014 Celebrating Russian Winter Interview with consierge Best hotel offers

Nightlife Bars, pubs and clubs

42 46 47

Some useful information

Culture and Events

26 34

Sightseeing

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in the city

Basics and Language

Rubinshteina street

A treasure trove at the Hermitage Further afield

A word from our editor

News

Getting around

Russia Moscow Veliky Novgorod Sochi Petrozavodsk Kostroma

58 59 61 62 64 66

February - March 2014

news

Foreword Get ready! They say that February and March will be the coldest months of the whole year. But we promise, it will be fun! The St. Petersburg In Your Pocket team has prepared a great range of things for you to choose from. First of all, there are a lot of holidays during these months: Valentine’s Day, the Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland, International Women’s Day and of course Maslenitsa (check our special festive feature on pages 16-19). This last one has always been one of my favourites. Have you ever watched The Barber of Siberia (if not, I highly recommend it!)? Remember this part with the crazy Maslenitsa celebrations next to the Moscow Kremlin? Yes, that’s what I’m talking about. This scene shows the atmosphere of the holiday so get into a festive mood and enjoy it! One of the coolest things about the Maslenitsa week is, of course, the eating part. Pancakes of all sorts and kinds can be found almost everywhere in the city: in cosy and popular café’s and luxurious and elegant restaurants. By the way, if you want to see the biggest Maslenitsa celebrations in Russia you can take a trip to Pskov, a mediaeval city located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg (see page 17). I’ve never been there myself but a few colleagues of mine say that it is a real must during the winter months. If you take this trip don’t forget to share your impressions with us (by e-mail to editor.spb@inyourpocket.com or on our Facebook page www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket). Apart from the holidays, February and March are one of the busiest months of the year culture-wise. Check our Culture and Events section (pages 8-13), I’m sure you will find something po dushe (literally translated as “for your soul” and means “what you like”). While visiting the Hermitage go to the “hidden” golden and diamonds rooms (see page 46). We were there a month ago and were really impressed! Thank you for reading and enjoy the city! S Prazdnikami! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

Cover story A room with a view. This magnificent view onto Troitsky Cathedral was taken from the recently opened Sky Bar. Located on the 18th storey of the AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg, the bar offers some of the best views of the city. See our news story on page 5 for details. Photo by Ilya Timshin.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No93, 01.02.2014, 90.000 copies © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl For children aged 16 years and over.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

Estonia

Ireland

Russia

Latvia Lithuania Belarus

Netherlands Poland Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania

Georgia

FYR Macedonia

Greece

It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editor Ksenia Elzes, editor.spb@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research research.spb@inyourpocket.com PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com Contributors Peter Campbell, Andy Potts Photo Ilya Timshin

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No93. 01.02.2014 Для детей старше 16 лет.

Commercial department

Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov, peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

UK-Russia Year

Faberge Museum

Each year brings something new and exciting in Russia and 2014 promises to uphold the tradition being the UK-Russia Year of Culture. The cultural year will celebrate the rich and diverse cultures of both countries. It aims to foster cultural exchange and the programme will include the arts, education, language, sport and science. A lot of interesting events will be held during this year in both capitals. The year will be officially launched in April with an exhibition The Golden Age of the Russian Avant-Garde at Exhibition Association Manege in Moscow, created by British film director Peter Greenaway. It will culminate with an exhibition at the Science Museum, London about Russian space exploration which will include unique objects that have never before been seen outside Russia. This is a great year to celebrate English, Russian and the cultures of the two countries. Like our Facebook page to keep up with the latest events as part of this year of culture. www.ukrussia2014.ru

A museum dedicated to the works of the famous Russian jeweller Karl Faberge opened this month at the Shuvalovsky Palace – a short walk from Gostiny Dvor. The newly refurbished building displays about 4000 works of applied art, including rare paintings and some of the famous Easter eggs that won the Faberge family acclaim at the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century. The museum, which is privately funded, aims to display items dating to Russia’s imperial past and in addition to the Faberge collection will also house temporary collections. The museum is a project by the Link of Time Foundation, established by Russian businessman Viktor Vekselberg. The organisation’s aim is to locate, acquire and bring back to Russia items of cultural and historical significance. Vekselberg is owner of Renova Group which has interests in energy, aluminium and telecommunications. Forbes magazine estimates that he is the fourth richest man in Russia. You can book a free tour by sending a request to 3332655@ fsv.ru. www.fsv.ru

Bar opens new horizons

Hermitage to host Manifesta 10 The State Hermitage Museum has been selected to host Manifesta 10. Manifesta is a nomadic European Biennial of contemporary art, which changes its location every two years. It purposely tries to stay away from the world’s dominant art capitals, instead seeking to spread art’s development in the fields of curation, experimentation, education, and production. St. Petersburg was selected “because of its critical intellectual and historical relationship with East and West Europe: a uniting principal that is also central to Manifesta, as the single roving European biennial of contemporary art”. In 2014 Manifesta will celebrate its 20th anniversary, as it was founded to “respond to the new social, cultural and political reality that emerged in the aftermath of the Cold War”. The opening of Manifesta will coincide with the Hermitage’s 250th anniversary. 29 June – 31 October. www.manifesta.org

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg (Lermontovsky pr. 43/1) opened the Sky Bar on January 23, which claims to offer the highest panoramic views in St. Petersburg. The bar, located 69 metres above sea level, is on the 18th storey of the former Sovetskaya Hotel and provides guests with breathtaking views of the historic city – being significantly higher than most other buildings in the area. The minimalistic style of the bar is accentuated by the sharp contrast of the interior design with dark walls contrasting against marble of the bar. The lighting is provided with muted lights and tall panoramic windows. The bar’s menu includes items from Scandinavian, Asian and Russian cuisine. www.azimuthotels.com

Tandoor celebrates 20 years Located next to St. Isaac’s Cathedral Tandoor has been making mouths water for the past 20 years. Established in March 1994 the Indian restaurant has delighted the palettes of the local Indian community, expatriates and Russians who have fallen in love with the succulent meat and subtle spices of Indian cuisine. Tandoor was established during a period when good food was particularly hard to come by and the appearance of such a restaurant was desperately needed in St. Petersburg. The team at St. Petersburg In Your Pocket congratulates Tandoor on their significant anniversary and wishes them many more years of delicious culinary delights. www.tandoor-spb.ru

February - March 2014

Basics AND LANGUAGE

Be on guard!

Useful Phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky русски Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Health and Safety

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.

Climate Winters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures sometimes getting as low as -20, so warp up warm and don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer.

Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pocket dictionary Morzh

Hairy, fat and ugly and with quite some usy (moustache) morzhy (walruses) are popularly referred to as the ‘elephants of the sea’. In the Russian arctic they have been hunted for generations by the chukchi (native polar tribes) who rely on them for meat, oil and clothing. Furthermore their klyuki (tusks) are carved into ceremonial items and fur and skin is used to insulate the chum (a kind of large house-tent). Outside of the polar regions if you hear locals talking about morzhy they’re probably referring to Russian ice-swimmers who like to refer to themselves as walruses. As soon as the frosts arrive morzhy like to gather together, cut a special whole in the ice and take a swim. They say that the freezing temperatures and general shock to the body is good for circulation, kills bacteria and cleanses the body.

Tost

Russians are famous for their depth of dusha (soul) and love of vodka. Typically when these two things come together we get the tost (toast). Toasting is just as complex as anything else in Russia and so a straightforward ‘cheers!’ or na zdaroviye! (to health!) is far too simple. Traditionally the first drink is for the reason for the celebration, for example S Dnyom Rozhdeniya (happy birthday). This is followed by a very short break - mezhdu pervoy i vtoroy pereryvchik nebolshoy (between the first and the second there’s a not very big break) and then another shot. The next toast is often something like to parents ‘za roditeley’. The third drink should be for love ‘za lyubov’ and should be drunk with the left hand (the left hand is closer to the heart). At some point you should also of course make a toast to your meeting ‘za vstrechu’ and then one for friends ‘za druzhbu’. And don’t forget even if you don’t understand a word of it, you can only drink up when a toast is finished.

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40

dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok

50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi

In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, пожалуйста I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!

Alphabet

February - March 2014

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Culture & Events

February events

Concert Halls and Clubs Aurora Concert Hall E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl.

Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru Club A2 D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Bronnitskaya ul., 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Gorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo) pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru Grand Philharmonic Hall D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul., 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Lensoveta Palace of Culture (DK Lensoveta) D-1, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 30 63 www.lensoveta.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru

Theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre C-3, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre D-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy D-3, Italyanskaya ul., 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. spbmuzcomedy.com

Temptation Shows Iskushenie (temptation) dance troupe presents two beautiful shows in February that explore the complexities and depths of emotions and relationships. Breathing you (01.02, Lensoveta Palace of Culture, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, metro Petrogradskaya) is a complicated love story presenting the internal dialogue of the character as he explores the simmering resentments that destroy his relationship. The performance Between you and me (14.02, Music Hall, Aleksandrovsky park 4, metro Gorkovskaya) describes the story of a man madly in love who is forced to break up due to his inability to understand her “women’s logic”, but as he narrates the frustrating, touching and amusing stories of their love, he comes to the terrible truth that he has made a terrible mistake. Both stories use dance and physical theatre to explore and show the rawest emotions in an astonishing performance. Q "Breathing you" starts at 19:00. "Between you and me" starts at 20:00. Tel. (+7) 812 578 18 17, www. iskushenie.su.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

01.02 Saturday

20:00 OneRepublic

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.onerepublic.com. American group OneRepublic is one of the first examples of a group which has made it big due to social media. In 2007, the band released their debut album Dreaming out loud and its lead song Apologize was found on MySpace by American producer and rapper Timbaland and remixed leading to huge international success - taking the top place in the charts of 16 countries. The band‘s second album, Waking Up (2009), led to some of the bands best known hits such as All the Right Moves and Secrets. The St. Petersburg concert is being held as part of an international tour showcasing their latest album Native. The band is known for not only performing their own songs but also covers for acts such as U2, Justin Timberlake and Adele. Q Tickets 1,500 - 6,000Rbl.

14.02 Friday

20:00 AYO

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. ayomusic.com. Ayo combines the musical traditions of five continents to create a sound of joy. Her celebration of life is reflected in the name of her debut album Joyful (2006) which reached double platinum status in France and was well received throughout Europe and the United States. In 2009, the young singer became a UNICEF patron promoting children‘s rights to education and in the same year she was the subject of a documentary film by Raphaël Duroy. Her music mixes elements of folk, jazz, soul, reggae and rock. Q Tickets 1,500 - 2,200Rbl.

16.02 Saturday

19:00 Tango Passion

Gorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo), pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo. spb.ru. Tango is synonymous with passion, romance and desire. This St. Petersburg performance, dedicated to Valentine’s Day, features leading tango dancers from the Tango World Championship. Feel the emotion as you watch these inspiring performances and listen to the heart throbbing music. The performance includes soundtracks from Last Tango in Paris and Scent of a Woman with a rendition of famous tango La cumparsita. This promises to be a rare and unusual performance with romantic music and dancing to match the mood of Valentine’s Day and steal the heart of those dearest to you. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

19.02 Wednesday

19:00 Kitaro

E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. kitaromusic.com. Japanese New Age guru, Kitaro, has for the last forty years performed international audiences. The composer, arranger and multiinstrumentalist holds such awards as a Grammy and Golden Globe. His audiences can feel the energy of his truly magical and spiritual music. The composer is presenting his new programme Final Call. The concept is to help audiences reexamine how they relate to the world and the environment before it is too late. Kitaro‘s performances are always linked by a message of love and he believes the key to changing the world is to begin by loving ourselves. Q Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl.

21.02 Friday - 27.02 Thursday

Slava Polunin Snow Show

D-2, Mikhailovksy Theatre, pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (7) 812 595 43 05, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Slava Polunin’s Snow Show has received acclaim world wide – especially in countries where there is less snow. Slava Polunin and his troupe of clowns work with a winter theme making use of snow to create a fairy tale of fun and amusement for children of all ages. The cast of this touching show changes constantly and the show changes as clowns mature and old ideas are replaced with new ones. The performance is enhanced by an eclectic mix of music to bring out the clown in all of us and the shocking climax of the spectacle is carried out to the chilling chords of Carmina Burana. The show has been running now for 18 years and shows little sign of growing old to this bunch of clowns. Q Show start at 14:00, 15:00, 18:00, 19:00 and 19:30. Tickets 1,600 - 6,000Rbl.

26.02 Wednesday

20:00 SCHILLER

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. musik.schillerserver.de. Inspired by electronic greats such as Tangerine Dream, Kraftwerk and Klaus Schulze Schiller creates a world of transparent sound tinged with nostalgia and connecting the past with the present and has been praised as ‚global pop‘ and as ‚electronic music touching the depths of the soul‘. Based in Berlin, Schiller has been creating his own electronica since 1998 with platinum album success and sold out tours. His concert tours are accompanied by light shows. After a two year absence from Russia Schiller returned in November 2013 and his show was such a success that he has been persuaded to bring his it back for another night of electronic splendour. Q Tickets 2,200 - 4,000Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The Musical Hermitage A festival celebrating the 250th anniversary of the State Hermitage Museum with performances from some of the world’s leading musicians from a range of genres including the Hadouk Trio from France, Norwegian trumphetist Arve Henriksen and the Lighthous Trio from the UK. The festival will also include an innovative performance Shakespeare bilingual in honour of the bard’s 450th anniversary. Q Tickets 300 - 1,700Rbl. Tel. (+7) 812 495 70 43, www.hermitagemusic.ru.

16.02 Sunday

20:00 The Jury Honing Acoustic Quartet and Lighthouse Trio

Glinka Academic Chapel, D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 20, MNevsky pr. The festival begins with a concert by two of the biggest names in European jazz. Dutch saxophonist Jury Honing has performed in 18 albums. The Lighthouse Trio led by multi-instrumentalist and composer Tim Garland is considered one of the strongest jazz groups today and the participation of Gwilym Simcock and Asaf Sirkis adds a Latin American and Eastern flavour to this dynamic group.

19.02 Wednesday

20:00 Shakespeare bilingual

Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art, B-3, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya. Celebrating the 450th birthday of the Bard, William Shakespeare, the festival has prepared a special programme mixing together various art forms of painting, video art, literature, theatre, music and improvisation to honour the playwright’s genius. It will include the performances of Hugo Ticciati (violin, UK) and Yuri Honing (sax, Netherlands) and also recitals of the Sonnets by Terry Sweeney (UK) and Konstantin Malyshev (Russia). The performance will be conducted in both Russian and English.

21.01 Friday

20:00 Hadouk Trio (France)

Atrium of the General Staff Building, D-2, Dvortsovaya pl. 6/8, MNevsky pr. The Hadouk Trio is a group of multi-instrumentalists who seek exotic musical experiences and carry the audience away on their captivating journeys. The trio’s members are Didier Malherbe (duduk, flutes, sax soprano) Loy Ehrlich (gumbass), Partice Heral (percussion). The group has recorded seven albums and played in numerous festivals.

23.02 Sunday

20:00 Belcanto

Glinka Academic Chapel Great music from your favourite Italian operas will be played at the Glinka Academic Chapel in this unforgettable evening. Winners of the Spoleto competition Isotton Chiara, Giuseppe Distefano and Davide Giangrigorio will be accompanied by the State Hermitage Orchestra, directed by Swedish conductor Mats Liljefors.

25.02 Tuesday

20:00 Arve Henriksen and the Trio Mediaeval (Norway)

Atrium of the General Staff Building At the Hermitage Festival Trio Mediaeval and Arve Henriksson present a unique programme of old Norwegian and Icelandic songs, in which the northern mediaeval chants, hymns and songs of love are captured by modern performance.

February - March 2014

Culture & Events Armin Only

08.02 Saturday

22:00 Armin Only: Intense

SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.arminonly.com. Armin Van Buuren is one of the biggest DJs in the business, producing spectacular shows that are more than electronica. Attracting thousands of fans, his performances include dance numbers, acrobatics and special effects, accompanied by live music and singers. The Dutch producer has won numerous accolades and his weekly radio show, A State of Trance, is broadcast in 26 countries and has 20 million listeners. Armin has also produced five albums, with his 2008 studio album Imagine making it to number one on the Dutch charts. Q Tickets 1,700 - 5,000Rbl.

27.02 Thursday

20:00 Backstreet Boys

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. backstreetboys.com. The Backstreet Boys have sold over 130 million re cords world wid e, makin g th em the best-selling boy band in history. The boy band first appeared in Orlando back in 1993 and with their first single We‘ve got it Going On (1995) the group achieved almost instant success in Europe. During the late 90s the group gained widespread recognition and popularity with a series of popular albums including Backstreet‘s Back, Millennium and Black and Blue. The group is particularly famous for hits such as As Long as You Love Me and Quit Playing Games. Q Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl.

March events 01.03 Saturday

20:00 Within Temptation

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.within-temptation.com. Within Temptation will be visiting Russia as part of a European tour to support a new album - which is yet to be released (or even named). The music of the Dutch group is often described as symphonic metal or gothic metal. The band had been a prominent member of the Dutch underground scene before being found in 2001 with their single Ice Queen which reached number two on the Dutch charts. The band has released a total of five albums and has also spawned a comic book series and a number of short films which were released with their last album The Unforgiving released in 2011. The band is known for its energy and force. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 04.03 Tuesday

08.03 Saturday

E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, w w w. avishaicohen.com. Avishai Cohen is considered to be one of the leading bassists in contemporary jazz. The Israeli-American musician has released 13 albums and collaborated with musicians such Danilo Perez and Chick Corea. He mixes Middle Eastern and Mediterranean melodies as well as borrowing from ethnic music and merging it with urban minimalism. Cohen is known for bringing a holistic understanding to his music, possessing a clear idea of what he wants to create. When performing he becomes fully entranced by his music and seems to live in his performance – creating a magical experience for the audience. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl.

E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.club-desbelugas.com. Lovers of Nu Jazz are in for a treat. This leading German jazz group has firmly established its position in the musical soundscape with hits such as Wildcats Gotta Move, and their album Apricoo Soul. The band’s music has been adopted in advertisements for LG Electronics, Lexus, Ford, KIA, Jaguar, Honda, Nivea, Samsung, Mercedez-Benz, BMW, Martini, Beeline while their tracks have been licensed for various compilations 630 times. The band also actively participates in festivals around the globe, having clocked up over 100 festival performances since 2007. The group has an eclectic repertoire including bossa nova, swing, club electronica and lounge. For their St. Petersburg performance Club des Belugas will be joined by powerful contralto Brenda Boykin. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl.

20:00 Avishai Cohen Trio

06.03 Thursday

20:00 Emir Kusturica & The No Smoking Orchestra

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. thenosmokingorchestra. com. Emir Kusturica is famous around the world for his artistic talents, sense of fun and passion. The film director has won numerous international awards for his films which often include wild and wonderful musical elements. Kusturica‘s passion for film is equally strong for music and his No Smoking Orchestra promises an emotional and fun performance full of joy and romance. Kusturica is heavily influenced by the rich combination of sounds from his homeland in the Balkans which are thrown together with gypsy abandon to create stunning sounds and an exciting spectacle. Q Tickets 1,200 - 7,000Rbl.

07.03 Friday

20:00 Bullet For My Valentine

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.bulletformyvalentine.com. Following the release of their debut album Poison on 14 February 2005 they were immediately welcomed as a leading heavy metal groups. The band has managed to compose its music using old school rhythms and beats and combining it with a modern ‘harsh‘ sound and adding to it an intangible mix of romance which should seem out of place in 21st century heavy rock. The Welsh group‘s latest album Temper Temper was released in February 2013 and the creative group are promising to start work on a new album in the near future. Q Tickets 1,900 - 4,500Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

20:00 Club Des Belugas and Brenda Boykin

13.03 Thursday

20:00 Gogol Bordello

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. gogolbordello.com. Inspired by Gypsy and Eastern European music Gogol Bordello is a punk band with a sound of its own, mixing the accordion, violin and saxophone to generate a sound quite unlike any punk you‘ve ever heard before. The group star ted out in Manhatten and have strong Ukrainian and Yiddish influences. They have appeared in a number of popular films including Everything is Illuminated (2005) where the band‘s leader Eugene Hütz co-starred next to Elijah Wood. The band has toured extensively through America and Europe and have produced six albums, the latest Pura Vida Conspiracy was released in 2013 and which promoter promise ‘will break down walls.‘ Q Tickets 1,200 - 6,000Rbl.

Depeche Mode

04.03 Tuesday

20:00 Depeche Mode

SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.depechemode.com. Depeche Mode proves that you can never get too old to trance out to electronica. Despite struggling with alcohol, drug abuse and depression the British group has managed to stick together and stay at the top of hit parades for the last 30 years with 49 songs reaching number one on the UK charts and with over 100 million disk sales. Having performed to over 30 million people this is your opportunity to experience the cult band live. The concert in St. Petersburg will feature songs from their new album Delta Machine as well as some old time classics. Q Tickets 2,500 - 10,000Rbl.

14.03 Friday

19:00 Apocalyptica

E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. apocalyptica.com. This popular Finnish group won a wide audience by performing cover versions of famous heavy metal groups, having been set up as a Metallica cover band while the group were studying at the Sibelius Academy. The group has a rich repertoire and a wealth of influences including classical music, heavy metal, hard rock and post-grunge. The band has also borrowed from folk and Middle Eastern music. The band has produced seven albums which mix cover songs with their own compositions. They have sold over four million albums to date. The St. Petersburg concert will be performed alongside the Finnish Avanti! Chamber Orchestra with Apocalyptica songs specially arranged for a 25 piece orchestra. Q Tickets 1,600 - 5,000Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Culture & Events Voca People

31.03 Monday

19:00 Voca People

D-1, Lensoveta Palace of Culture (DK Lensoveta), Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, www.voca-people.com. Voca People is described as a ‘musical show from a different planet for the whole family‘. Courageous visitors and guests are invited to participate in this out of world experience as they listen to ‘alien‘ performances of international hits. The group tours internationally and has a repertoire of over 70 classic hits from different musical periods. The band has no musical accompaniment and rely entirely on their own vocal talent to recreate your favourite songs, imitating the sounds of various instruments including trumpets, drums, guitars, violins and even a piano! A show that children and adults can enjoy together. Q Tickets TBA.

Buying Concert Tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and also sell tickets online. There are also online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets. Kassir.ru The only website that offers their event listings in English. Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian.

18.03 Tuesday

19:00 Thirty Seconds to Mars

SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, w w w. thirtysecondstomars.com. Thirty Seconds to Mars is one of those few groups that like to meet its fans. Their sincerity and openness reveals their general philosophy to music and life in general and is reflected in their songs. Their philosophical and spiritual lyrics, concept albums and experimental music,combining elements of electronica, has led them to be compared to groups such as Pink Floyd, The Cure, Tool, and U2. The US band is one of the most successful in recent years. Their four albums have sold over five million copies. The St. Petersburg concert promises the band‘s most popular songs and a programme full of surprises. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 18.03 Tuesday

19:00 The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and Chorus play Rock Hits D-2, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.rpo.co.uk. The Royal Philarmonic Concert Orchestra (UK) and Metro Voices choir have joined forces to create a unique concert presenting some of the greatest rock songs. Your favourite songs will be brought to life by a full orchestra and some of the most powerful voices in the world. Hear your favourite classics from U2, Cold Play, Queen, Bon Jovi and George Michael. Both the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra and Metro Voices have extensive experience in a wide range of genres with the philharmonic touring widely around the world. Metro Voices have been involved in some of the biggest films including The Great Gatsby, Alice in Wonderland and The Da Vinci Code. The St. Petersburg concert is one of only eight. Q Tickets 1,000 - 6,500Rbl.

Exhibitions

Through 17.03 Monday

Through 02.03 Sunday

D-2, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru. Vladimir Yashke is a legendary figure in the St. Petersburg underground. Yashke continues to work, maintaining his individual and recognisable style, marked by unfettered freedom of painting and close attention to colour and texture - the keys to 20th century painting. Vladimir Yashke‘s work is displayed at the Russian Museum and other museums around Russia and overseas. However the exhibition in the Marble Palace will be the first exhibition to present the main stages of Yashke‘s creative journey. The exhibition, dedicated to Yashke‘s 65th birthday, will present more than 100 pieces of the maestro‘s art. The paintings are brought together with romance and humour. The exhibition includes works from private collections as well as the Russian Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.

100 Wonders of the World

D-3, Perinnye Ryady Ar t Centre, Dumskaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 20 28, www.artcenter. su. This exhibition which was put together with the help of National Geographic has turned into an international photo festival with the most amazing, astonishing and unusual photographs chosen out of over a million images from around the world. The exhibition includes images from Russia, Germany, USA, Indonesia, Australia, Malaysia, Kuwait and even African countries. The exhibition is a unique way of re-examining our view of the world from the perspective of different societies and cultures. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Vladimir Yashke

27.03 Thursday

20:00 The Asteroids Galaxy Tour

E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.theasteroidsgalaxytour.com. The Danish group has been heard by almost everyone around the globe who has turned on a television in the past five years – although many will not have heard the name of this creative band. Their 2008 single Around the Bend was chosen by Apple to advertise the iPod Touch and a year later this same melody was chosen for a film about Vogue editor Anna Wintour. The band continues working with influential people and commercial brands and acting as an advertising medium the band has acquired a fan base of millions around the world. Having released two albums (Fruit and Out of Frequency) the group has spent the last three years doing concert tours around the group. This will be their first visit to Russia. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl.

28.03 Friday

20:00 Dead By April

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. deadbyapril.com. Swedish metal-core group whose 2009 single Losing You hit the top of the charts in 2009 is returning to Russia as part of the Let the World Know Tour 2014 supporting their new album. The group was formed in 2007 and was popularly received through internet releases before signing with Universal Music and making it on the international music scene. Based on the success of their first album Dead by April went on their first world tour. The group has just finished its latest album and is looking forward to performing in Russia. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,300Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Through 09.03 Sunday

The Kingdom of Florа

C-3, Rumyantsev maison, Angliskaya nab. 44, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum. ru. Displayed in Russia for the first time, the exhibition comprises canvases from the Modus Vivendi Art Gallery of nature morte floral paintings by Dutch and Flemish painters from the 17th century to the start of the 18th century. The exhibition includes works from the famous Brueghel family: Jan Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Jan Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Ferdinand Brueghel; and also Jan-Baptist Bosschaert, Gaspar Pieter Verbruggen the Younger, Jan Philips van Thielen, Pieter Castells III, Jan van Huysum and Flemish women Alida Withoos and others. The exhibition is decorated by luscious bouquets of real flowers. Visitors can admire not only the floral paintings but also learn about the complex symbolism involved in Dutch and Flemish nature morte, decoding the forgotten and enigmatic language of flowers. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

Through 17.03 Monday

Dinner is served.

D-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. The theme of food was in high demand throughout the 18th and 19th centuries by Russian artists - this however is the first exhibition dedicated to this sumptuous subject matter. The exhibition will present more than 300 exponents portraying the full variety of Russian taste from this period. The exhibition will include the dinner services of the tsars, items of applied and decorative arts, and paintings depicting various dinners: from modest servings to royal feasts. Works on display include such famous masters as Makovsky, A.Ryabushkin, B.Kustodiev, I.Mashkov, Konchalovsky, A.Plastov, Ivanov. Also on display are the recipes of Russian cuisine and numerous court menus and aristocratic dining experiences from the first half of the 19th century. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

Through 28.04 Monday

Golden childhood…noble indulgence

C-3, Alexander Blok Museum, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum.ru. Dedicated to the raising of children in noble families at the turn of the 19th and 20th century the exhibition shows the favourite pass-times, interests and games of youngsters at that time. The exhibition includes numerous photographs as well as a reconstruction of a children‘s room, children‘s clothing and everyday possessions and toys: a train, a bike shaped like a horse, a dolls house, croquet mallet and many other items, including children‘s journals, books and board games. The exhibition includes an interactive zone where visitors make their own toys and can also play board games. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

FeatureS

FeatureS Russia at the Olympics

Where To Watch Nothing beats the energy and excitement of watching a game live in the stadium, with the throb of the crowd and the thrill and tension of the sport. But if you can’t be there yourself, joining a bunch of friends down at a classy sports bar is a pretty good alternative. Enjoy the game on large screen TVs, order some classic pub food and a jug or two of beer and enjoy the best sports events in comfort. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket has selected the best sports bars in the city which promise you great service, great beer and a great environment to make the most of your favourite sport. Enjoy the Olympics and European football in style and enjoy world class sport in good company.

Mollie’s Irish Pub D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MV-

ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly. su. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PASW Mollie’s Mews D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly. su. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW Molly Island A-2, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW Molly Shelter E-3, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW The Office Pub D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest. ru. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW Manneken Pis Moskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard. ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAGW Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist. ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PTAEGSW William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. PAESW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Sochi after the Olympics Sport fans have flocked to the resort town of Sochi for the Olympics, but it might be worth considering a trip to Russia’s Riviera once the sports obsessed crowds have departed, leaving in their wake a city of world class facilities which are ready for a visit by guests willing to spend time to explore the beauty and attractions of this little known part of Russia. Known during the Soviet times as the Russian Riviera, Sochi is a resort town located on the Black Sea, nestled under the Caucasus mountains, offering you plenty of options all year round to do sport, get back to nature or just chill out in a Jacuzzi and watch the world go by. If visiting during the summer there is more to do than simply laze about on the beach perfecting your tan. There are dozens of attractive waterfalls, waterways and lakes where you can chill out, go swimming or enjoy hikes with amazing views. Some of the top attractions have to be the Agur Waterfalls, the Mammoth Ravine, and the White Cliffs. In addition to scenic hikes, visitors can also go on horse tracks. There are also some cool caves that are worth checking out if you want to get out of the summer’s sun. In winter you can go up to Krasnaya Polyana, go skiing or watch the snow in front of a log fire at a cosy resort. Despite the region’s popularity among Russians, Sochi was unknown to foreign tourists and expatriates until it was put forward as a contender for the 2014 Winter Olympics – consequently, this resort city is largely untouched by foreign influences and is a great place to relax and enjoy an authentic Russian experience. Furthermore, following the Winter Olympics Sochi hosts the most up to date hospitality infrastructure in Russia with over 100 hotels, including major hotel brands such as Radisson, Hyatt and Swissôtel, as well as the latest sports facilities. The city now boasts 14 new Olympic facilities, consisting of stadiums, skating rinks, ice hockey arenas and alpine ski trails. This is in addition to 30 new four-star and five-star hotels, and 54 three-star hotels. So regardless of your price range and interests, your visit to Sochi should be comfortable, pleasant and a great new experience. History buffs will enjoy the unusual history of this region which has been home to the Cimmerians, Scythians, Sarmatians, Khazars and Mongols. Although an iconic location in Russia today, it was virtually unknown to Russia at the start of the 19th century and only became Russian territory 150 years ago after drawn out conflicts with the Ottoman Turkish Empire and Circassian mountain tribes. With a diverse culture, great access to the outdoors and stunning scenery, the question really is why haven’t you visited Sochi already?

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

When it comes to the Olympics, sport has always been mixed with a little politics. During the Cold War the United States and Soviet Union competed against each other, believing that athletic skill on the sports field equated to military power on the battlefield. Given this intense competition, many are surprised to learn that although the Russian Empire participated in the 1900, 1908 and 1912 Olympics, the Soviet Union didn’t participate in them until 1952 when they were held in Helsinki, Finland. The Sochi Olympics are the second to be held in Russia with the first held in Moscow in 1980. Moscow took considerable pride in these Olympics, building much of Moscow’s sporting infrastructure for the events and extending television coverage to many regions of the Soviet Union that had previously been beyond broadcast range. However, the much anticipated event was something of a flop. Protesting the Soviet Union’s 1979 invasion of Afghanistan, America led a group of 65 countries that boycotted the Olympics (compared to only 24 countries that boycotted the 1976 Olympics in South Africa). In response the Soviet Union boycotted the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics. Since the end of the Cold War, Russia has actively participated in both summer and winter events and despite economic difficulties have managed to maintain their position in international sport maintaining medal hauls for the summer games of second, third and fourth place overall and largely staying in the top five for the winter games. For the Sochi Olympics, Russia has spent a record $ 51 billion USD which has gone to building venues and tourism infrastructure – making the Olympics the most expensive games ever.

Your favourite Olympic mascot? Today it is hard to imagine the Olympics without a cool and cuddly mascot to represent the games, the country and the athletes. Although there is some confusion about the appearance of the first mascots they seem to have cropped up back in 1968 and have been devoted fans and patrons of the games ever since. In keeping with the winter theme these games are represented by Polar Bear, the Hare and the Amur Leopard. Each mascot represents a virtue or a skill that all true Olympians strive to meet. The Polar Bear is the natural sportsperson who spends the long winter skiing and tobogganing and is ready for any adventure. The Hare is constantly busy and is your favourite extravert, fun loving and honest. You’d be amazed how busy Hare is, helping out parents, studying, playing sport, singing and dancing. The Leopard is a mountain rescuer and an accomplished snowboarder who rides avalanches, climbs tree and loves good company. Ray of Light and Snowflake are the mascots for the Paralympic Games. Ray of Light is an interplanetary explorer, is courageous, understanding and overcomes all challenges.

For Football Fans

Visitors to St. Petersburg this February and March will get the rare opportunity of watching world class football being played in one of the northernmost football stadiums in the world – St. Petersburg’s own Petrovsky Stadium. The local football heroes, FC Zenit, have qualified for the UEFA Champions League playoff phase, meaning Europe’s most important football tournament is coming to town on February 25. Those ready to brave the cold are in for a heated football contest between Russia’s finest team and German giants Borussia Dortmund, last year’s Champions League finalists. Zenit has its work cut out against such a European powerhouse, but this is what Italian head coach Luciano Spalletti and star players Hulk, Axel Witsel, Andrey Arshavin and Alexander Kerzhakov are here to do – compete with the very best teams in Europe. Weather conditions are likely to be adverse, but that never stops the home crowd from cheering on the Blue-White-Sky Blues to victory. The stadium atmosphere is often at its best on European nights, and Zenit is playing in the Champions League round of 16 for only the second time in club history, so you can expect a sell-out. Get your tickets in advance! The month of March sees the return of the Russian Premier League to Petrovsky Stadium. Following an almost three-month break from football, the home faithful get to watch their team restart the second half of the Russian season when Zenit host FC Tom on the second weekend of March. Zenit is currently in joint first place in the Russian table, and must start things off right against Siberian minnows FC Tom. Anything other than a smashing victory will be a disappointment. Zenit then goes away to play perennial rivals CSKA in Moscow, but comes back to Petrovsky to host Krylya Sovetov of Samara on the fourth weekend of March. Thus the strong and the brave will have three opportunities, one in the Champions League and two in the Russian Premier League, to support St. Petersburg’s favorite club Zenit in beautiful Petrovsky Stadium this winter. Don’t miss this very unique experience to see world-class football played in one of Europe’s far corners. By Chris Pascone Information about tickets to Zenit’s home match vs. FC Ural is available on the official Zenit website: en.fc-zenit.ru.

The souvenir sheet of Russia: 3 self-adhesive stamps. (с) Russian Post. Designed by O. Shushlebina

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

See pages 62-63 for more on Sochi February - March 2014

FeatureS

Celebrating Russian winter

Love is in the air

February is the coldest month in Russia and after three or four months of dark days and cloudy weather we all need a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty of reasons to get together with friends and celebrate life in general. The celebratory season kicks off in romantic style with Valentine’s Day a day for couples to celebrate their love and for singles to celebrate being single. This is followed ten days later with the Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland which is great excuse for girls to celebrate the manliness of their man and for blokes to get together and celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of stories you don’t tell the girls. After surviving these two celebrations, it’s time to relax and celebrate by feasting through the week of Maslenitsa. After this marathon effort you should be in fine fettle to celebrate the climax of the celebratory season, Women’s Day. In Your Pocket brings you the hows, whys and whens of Russia’s celebratory season.

Russia’s Northern Capital is filled to the brim with romantic hotspots. The city did produce Pushkin, Russia’s greatest love poet, after all. Even the most hard-hearted and cynical human cannot fail to be moved by the city’s innate romance on a trip to wintry St. Petersburg. Any season can be the season of romance in this city. We’ve compiled our list of the city’s best locales for a little amorous action. You shouldn't miss the Winter Palace in winter. When dusk arrives in the late afternoon, this makes for a fine early twilight walk through the museum. Wander through the Hermitage, along Raphael’s loggia, taking in the views of the picturesque and frosty Neva River. That there are fewer people about contributes greatly to the atmosphere as you can admire the masterpieces at your leisure and feel that this wondrous palace is almost yours (except for the grandmotherly chaperon sitting in each room keeping an eye on you). Ice skating simply breathes romance. If it is not the ruddy cheeked glow or the graceful skaters, it is those first time skaters who take to the ice in pairs and have to hang off each other just to stay upright. We know you have all been there… Falling on your behind may not seem terribly conducive to the whispering of sweet nothings but it’s a pretty quick way to fall into your lover’s arms. There are a lot of ice rinks set up in most parks around town so you don’t have to look hard for somewhere to lace up those skates. After skating we recommend a mug of warm spicy mulled wine in a cosy bar. The islands to the north of the city offer kilometers of relaxed wandering. Kamenny Island with its exclusive houses and manicured lawns is a lovely quiet spot. Elagin Island offers uninterrupted strolling amidst natural forest free from the usual city distractions. It’s easy to feel that you’ve left the city. On Elagin, you can also visit the ornate Elagin Palace, the first architectural project completed by Carlo Rossi and on weekends outside you can often hear swing or jazz music coming from the park’s loudspeakers or a live band striking up a tune. So if anyone feels like dancing… No romantic city guide would be complete without mentioning Potseluyev or the Bridge of Kisses. Considered the most romantic of all bridges in the city, it crosses the Moika Canal near pl. Truda and ul. Glinki (C-3 on our city map on page 56). City wide legend states that whoever should kiss while standing on the bridge will stay with that person forever and have a happy and harmonious marriage. Like all urban legends, how true this one is remains to be seen. Potseluyev Bridge remains a popular place for men to propose marriage. We have heard that the name of the bridge comes from the man who owned the pub on the corner of ul. Glinki. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter where you are in the city. In such a romantic city as ours, a metro platform, the bread aisle in the supermarket, even the produkti corner shop can become unexpected hidden pockets of romance.

14.02 Friday

Valentine’s Day Few countries seem to ooze romance the way Russia does and it is surprising that Valentine’s Day is a relatively recent import. However, it is now widely celebrated and if you intend to go out this Valentine’s be prepared to book in advance, restaurants are crowded and bars are packed on the night of February 14 as couples dine together to commemorate their love, and singles flock to clubs offering special programmes to bring the lonely and unattached together. The traditions are similar to those in other countries, couples give each other flowers, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates, and greeting cards.

23 February 23.02 Sunday

Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland The Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland was originally a holiday to commemorate the formation of the Red Army in 1918 and is still celebrated in many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend for changing Soviet names, although it’s most commonly known simply as Men’s Day. Although technically it is still a military holiday, it’s also a public holiday. Thus all men are celebrated, whether they’ve served in the forces or not and has in effect become the male counterpart to International Women's Day. Thus, you will see many beer festivals and specials occurring on the city on this day.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

24.02 Monday – 02.03 Sunday

Maslenitsa

Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been merged into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of winter and the arrival of spring. It lasts from February 24 to March 2 and is sometimes known in other countries as Mardi Gras or Carnival. In Russia it celebrates the last week before lent and turns into a huge pancake festival designed to carb load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of fasting. On the last day of Maslenitsa, there's usually a union of pagan and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter - is burned.

Russian Wide Maslenitsa in Pskov Located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg, near the Estonian border, Pskov is a great place to get away from the city for a day, breathe some fresh air and enjoy a walk in time to medieval Russia. Dotted all over the city are squat domed little churches, most dating from the 15th and 16th century, and the oldest continually functioning monastery, the Monastery of the Caves, can also be found here. Many features particular to Russian architecture originate in Pskov and considering the violence the city has been subjected to, it is astonishing so much of it remains. The crown jewel of the city is and always has been the Kremlin, locally known as the Krom. In its 1000-plus years, the Krom has been besieged 42 times, attacked by Teutonic knights, Muscovites and Poles but stormed only twice until the modern era when German forces from both World Wars occupied the city. Given the strength of its defenses, it isn’t surprising that culture and the arts flourished within the city. Masons, painters of icons and writers all developed and refined their crafts here. Pushkin himself even spent considerable time writing on his family’s estate just outside the city. Steeped in history and rich in tradition and culture there’s no better place to experience the particularly Russian holiday of Maslenitsa than Pskov. Festivities during Maslenitsa in Pskov (28.02 – 02.03) usually include a bustling crafts fair, folk songs and dances, troikas racing through the snow, ice sculptures, pole-climbing displays of strength and virility by the gents, doll-making from the ladies and did we mention bliny? Oh, the bliny. Stacks and stacks of pancakes bought, sold and relished, which culminate in a contest whereby participants have 10 minutes to prepare the largest number of blini their hot little frying pans can handle. The delectable results are then auctioned off to benefit the Church of the Holy Martyr of Faith, Hope and Charity. Don’t forget to stay for the burning of Kostroma and cheer on the end of winter! GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, there are a couple of trains a day to Pskov. From the City Bus Station, there are daily buses, and there is a Eurolines bus service from Baltiisky station.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Charity Dinner 26.02 Wednesday

The Life Line Charity Fund and the Talion Imperial Hotel (Nevsky pr. 15) will be holding their annual Maslenitsa pancake evening. The evening includes a special cultural programme including a master class for tradition Russian dances, quadrilles á la russe, and a performance by gusli players (the gusli is an ancient Russian instrument using multiple strings over a frame like a harp). The evening concludes with a delicious menu of bliny by the Talion Imperial’s master chef Alexander Dregolsky. Funds raised will go to the Life Line Charity which provides medication for sick children. Their special menu will include: wheat pancakes with salted salmon and creamy horseradish sauce, gluten-free pancakes, buckwheat pancakes with stewed beef and green onions, rolls of wheat crepes with smoked salmon and beet with horseradish, pancake cake with smoked turkey and mango chutney, pancakes with white mushrooms and fried onions, pumpkin pancakes with pumpkin sauce and honey; envelopes of pancakes with smoked halibut, pancake rolls a la Bolognaise baked with parmesan, pancakes "Boyar" with chicken and mushrooms, coulibiac fish puff pancakes with egg and green onions; crepes and pancakes with honey, jam and sweet sauces. Yummy! Guest gathering starts at 19:00, the dinner starts at 20:00. Tickets 3,000Rbl. For reservation cal (+7) 812 324 99 11. www.lifeline.ru, www.taleonimperialhotel.com

February - March 2014

FeatureS

FeatureS Anna Pavlova - Ballerina

08.03 Saturday

Russian Women

International Women’s Day On March 8, Russia celebrates International Women’s Day. One of Russia’s biggest public holidays, it is second only to New Year and Russians go all out to congratulate their women. It’s impossible to ignore the infectious spirit of this holiday. Beaming men wait with red roses at metro exits and happy couples linger about in the streets. See them drinking champagne, while the first sunshine after many dark winter months warms their hearts and their relationships. Employers would be fools to forget to give gifts to their female staff. Many clubs and restaurants celebrate this special day the evening before, so be sure to mark your calendar and visit one. Women’s Day is has its roots in the (pre)revolution days. It was first celebrated in Russia on the last Sunday of February 1913, in conjunction with the peace movement on the eve of the First World War. The demonstrations marking International Women's Day in Russia proved to be the first stage of the Russian Revolution. In 1917 Russian women rallied on the last Sunday of February for their right to bread and peace. This demonstration was part of the movement that led to the February Revolution. Four days later the last tsar was forced to abdicate and women won their right to vote. After converting the date to the Gregorian calendar, March 8th became International Women’s Day. It is celebrated in every nook and cranny in Russia and flowers are sold by the dozens. Following the October Revolution, the Bolshevik feminist Alexandra Kollontai persuaded Lenin to make it an official holiday, and during the Soviet period it continued to celebrate ‘the heroic woman worker’. Although in Russia Women’s Day is an official holiday, in the West countries attach less value to this day. In the West, International Women's Day was commemorated during the 1910s and 1920s, but dwindled. It was revived by the rise of feminism in the 1960s. In 1975, the United Nations began sponsoring International Women's Day. The general idea of having an international women's day worldwide was first put forward at the turn of the 20th century amid rapid world industrialization and economic expansion that led to protests over working conditions.

Soviet postcard

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

You can call them the pillars of Russian society: the Russian women. But most of them don’t stand in the foreground (men always take this place). Yet through the whole of Russian history there were women who excelled others in arts, sciences, sports and politics. We have chosen some of the most famous to highlight as part of this year’s Women’s Day.

Catherine the Great – Empress

Catherine II took up the work that Peter the Great started and made Russia into a European power. She came to power after her husband Peter III was removed in a coup d'état. Influenced by the French Enlightenment, Catherine carried out correspondence with some of the leading thinkers of her day, including Voltaire. She wanted to rationalise and reform the Russian Empire. She founded some of the first Russian schools for girls and a medical school to provide health care for her subjects. She was thought of a ‘queen for the people’, although she resisted any suggestions to modernise agriculture or improve the conditions of the serfs. This led to the Pugachev Rebellion in 1773-75. Catherine undoubtedly played a key role in the development of Russia as a modern state.

Sofia Kovalevskaya – Mathematician

Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya was a great mathematician, a writer and advocate of women’s rights in the 19th century. Her strug gle to obtain the best education possible forced her to study overseas. She was dedicated to social reform, making an important contribution to opening university doors to women in Russia. She wrote her doctoral thesis on partial differential equations of Saturn’s moons at the University of Göttingen. Her masterful work in mathematics made her male counterparts reconsider their archaic notions of women’s inferiority to men in scientific arenas. In 1883 she lectured at the University of Stockholm and was made Professor of Mechanics, becoming the first female professor in Northern Europe. In 1888 she entered a pioneering paper in an international competition by the French Academy of Sciences and won. Her life’s work produced revolutionary scientific theories and gave impetus for future discoveries.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Born in a suburb of St. Petersburg, Pavlova is one of the greatest ballerinas of the 20th century and also one of ballet’s most influential ambassadors. Pavlova fell in love with ballet at an early age although it did not come easily to her. Her great success is largely due to her extreme dedication to the art – receiving the nickname La petite sauvage from her peers, she took additional private lessons with the leading dance teachers of her day to overcome her difficulties in learning ballet. However, her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world. No dancer, before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles in 15 years - long before air travel was accessible! She invented the first modern Pointe shoe and no ballerina today would even attempt toe work without it. In 1931 she contracted pleurisy. Doctors could have saved her life with an operation that would have left her unable to perform. She chose to die rather than give up dancing.

Marina Tsvetaeva Poet

Famous across Russia, Tsvetaeva left behind an incredible body of work that broke ground for women poets. One of her innumerable themes was the tension between women’s private lives and their public roles and she wrote vividly about the external and internal battles she lived through. Anna Akhmatova was her strongest literary influence. Tsvetaeva lived through the 1917 revolution and the Moscow famine – in which her daughter died. Tsvetaeva went into exile in 1922 because of her political views and lived in poverty in the 1920s and 30s in Paris, Berlin and then Prague.During this time she supported her family through her writings alone. In 1939 she returned to the Soviet Union where her husband Sergei Efron and her daughter Ariadna Efron were arrested as spies. Her husband was executed in 1941 and she committed suicide not long afterwards. As Boris Pasternak said: ‘The greatest recognition and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding twentieth century poet.’

Marina Raskova – Pilot

In September 1938, Raskova became the first person to fly from Moscow to the Russian Far East. She did it in a non-stop flight with a completely female crew and was made Hero of the Soviet Union. She was also the first women to be appointed as an instructor in the Soviet Union. During WWII she formed three air regiments consisting of women. They are thought to be the first women in history to take part in military action and they fought fanatically. Known for hitting their targets the three regiments flew over 30,000 sorties, of the 240 ‘Witches of the Night’ (as the Germans called them), 32 were burned. Raskova died in 1943 on the return run following a raid. She was the first Soviet combatant of the war to be given a state funeral. She was interred in the Wall of the Kremlin.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Valentina Tereshkova – Cosmonaut, first woman in space Born in 1937 in a farming village, Tereshkova received a technical education after the war and she learned how to parachute jump, which ignited her passion for space flight. Tereshkova was chosen for the women’s cosmonaut corps out of 400 applicants. Her solid proletarian background and a father who died a hero during the Winter War gave her an excellent background in addition to her other skills. On 16 June 1963, Tereshkova, aged 26, was launched into space aboard Vostok 6 and became the first woman to travel in space, making 48 orbits round Earth. After this feat, she became Chairwoman of the Committee of Soviet Women in 1968, was made Vice-President of the International Democratic Women Confederation (for world peace) in 1969. In 1971 she became a member of the Central Committee of the Communist Party. A moon crater is named after Tereshkova.

Raisa Gorbachovа – First Lady

Raisa Gorbachova was a philosophy teacher before becoming the First Lady of the USSR in 1985. She was her husband’s principal advisor behind closed doors. Unlike previous leaders’ wives, she attended public functions in designer clothes and jewellery. Her ‘bold’ behaviour and active role promoting equality shocked the Soviet people, but in the West it helped to give the Soviet Union a more human face. Diagnosed with leukaemia in 1999, she began to get appraisals from the Russian people and fundraised for children’s leukaemia hospitals. She was also involved in fundraising for Russia’s cultural heritage and fostering new talent. She died in 1999 and was given a public funeral.

Galina Starovoitova – Politician

Starovoi tova was p opular among Russians as she was one of the few politicians who worked to help others. She was popular in the West because she consistently expressed her political ideals of democracy, freedom of press and respect for human rights. In 1989-91 she was a member of Congress of People's Deputies, the prominent democratic opposition to the Communist Party. In 1990 she co-founded the Democratic Russia party and 1991-1992 was an advisor to president Yeltsin. In 1995 she became a member of the Duma, the Russian parliament. Here she opposed the anti-Semitic statements of Albert Makashov and became a vocal defender of the rights of ethnic communities and supporting the right of minorities to self determination. In 1996 the Election Committee refused her nomination as candidate for president because she was a woman. Starovoitova planned to run for the presidency elections in 2000, but in 1998 she was shot in her house in St. Petersburg. Her murder remains unsolved.

February - March 2014

hotels

Photo by Ilya Timshin We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period February - March 2014. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiral-

teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel. com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary. Views of St. Isaac's are unparalleled from their deluxe suites.Q193 rooms (Room price start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia. com. The Corinthia is the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. The entrance is a huge, elegant lobby and the rooms are stylishly modern. This hotel has been finished to a literal polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! The staff are welcoming and service is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Symbol Key

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. The first venture into Russia from Domina Hotel. This boutique hotel has a subtle yet impressive entrance with a colourful lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove. In the rooms there‘s ample space for work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh

Official State Hermitage Hotel E-3, Ul. Pravdy 10, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 98 10, www. thehotelhermitage.com. This hotel is located in the centre of St. Petersburg with classical interiors and artwork similar to what you will find at the State Hermitage Museum. The furniture follows the traditional style of Italian masters and creates a sense of elegance. The entrance is grand with bubbling fountains and bright light streaming from the cupola above. The hotel is a convenient distance to public transport and most of the main attractions in the city.Q126 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). PAGKW

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg

Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-

D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow. The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive as its interior. The Four Seasons is the epitome of class. The hotel offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, impeccable service and top quality amenities. It boasts an impressive ballroom and a stunning bar, along with two restaurants and a spa. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. This palatial historical hotel has it all with original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed. The Grand Hotel Europe plays an important role in the city, with many famous guests, including Bill Clinton, Elton John, and Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Three royals visited in 2011 - Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe II and Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh

Hotel Astoria D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the Rotonda Lounge offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Lichfield Bar where you can enjoy original cocktails and the Astoria Café where you can try traditional Russian dishes. The hotel is steeped in history with the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents having been preserved, while the rooms have been given contemporary upgrades. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. A wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon are also located in the hotel. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22,

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child friendly

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

C Swimming pool

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

D Sauna

M Nearest metro station

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant on the ninth floor is one of the most awe-inspiring places in the city. The hotel offers 197 rooms and suites and hosts three restaurants and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast 1,575Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. This is located in a 1730s building in the central city. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes a Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUF� GKDW hhhhh

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. This is a luxury hotel which stands out for being different. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. The Taleon Imperial enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. The spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites are the height of luxury. A spa on the top floor offers wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers business lunches. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLG� BKDCW hhhhh W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter a thoroughly contemporary interior. More than a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral and the Neva. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Europe check out our website www.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

hotels

hotels 4 Stars Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-

naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and historic district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance

via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby, a bar and two restaurants; the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four types of beer. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

C-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. The workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There‘s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with river views, and a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Nevsky Forum E-3, Nevsky pr. 69, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 02 22, www.nevskyforum.com. With a bold, modern attitude, this kind of hotel deserves to thrive. Rooms are generously sized and outfitted with individual artistic designs like trendy murals screen-printed onto the large bed heads. Although on Nevsky prospekt, the Forum is nowhere near as loud as you would expect. Q29 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). PTHA6LG� KDW hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky prospekt, Novotel offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition combining the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum. The interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. Q 233 rooms (Room prices star t at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 850Rbl. PTHA6UFL� GKDW hhhh Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,

Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone‘s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn‘t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. The rooms are quiet,brightl and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant. A great choice for those here to enjoy the city‘s tourist delights. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya Pl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www. parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskaya-stpetersburg. Located ten minutes from the airport, don‘t let size scare you, inside it‘s really friendly and accessible with diverse facilities. There‘s a wonderful fully renovated lobby with a bright relaxing atmosphere, Japanese restaurant, the ever popular Paulaner brewery and restaurant. Q841 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). PTHAUFLG� KDCW hhhh Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher-

nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson. ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotelpositively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky‘s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl, Breakfast 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh

Red Stars Hotel C-3, Nab. reky Pryazhki 30, MSado-

vaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel. ru. Red Stars has done up their hotel with signature red dominating the decor from doors to bathroom tiles. The corridors and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti by local artists.Centrally located with a 15 minute walk to the Mariinsky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky pr. The friendly concierge service, hot breakfast buffet and a far east themed lobby bar, along with the overall hip vibe completes the package. Q54 rooms (Room prices start at 3,400Rbl). €€€€. PTHAULGKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to Pulkovo international airport, this is the city‘s first airport hotel. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. The hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky

pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk. Each of the standard rooms have everything a businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar. The beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. The Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Breakfast 990Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

hotels Ask the Concierge Please tell us about yourself. My name is Natalia Kononenko and I am chief concierge at the Taleon Imperial Hotel. I wanted to work in a hotel ever since I read Hotel by Arthur Hailey. The book created such impression on me that I decided to go to the St. Petersburg State Engineering-Economic University to study hotel management. After the second year of education I started to work at one of the best hotels in St. Petersburg. After four years I began to work as concierge for the Taleon Imperial Hotel. This autumn I became a member of Les Clefs d'Or and it is a great achievement for me. What are some of the hidden winter treasures in and around St. Petersburg? The winter is a fairy tale which begins when the first snowflake falls. For me St. Petersburg’s winter treasures are the New Year, Christmas, the Epiphany which is celebrated by diving into the ice-hole, Maslenitsa, troika rides, ice fishing, ice carving exhibitions and ice-skating on Palace Square. What are the advantages of traveling to St. Petersburg in winter as opposed to summer? St. Petersburg is called the Northern Palmyra as it is particularly beautiful when covered in snow. Snow changes the city in its own way. The decreased number of tourists makes the city quieter and more intimate. The Nutcracker Suite is performed only in winter and is one of the best performances in St. Petersburg. What is a must-do for visitors in winter time in Russia? There are a lot of sights in Russia which are world famous and should be visited any time of the year. In St. Petersburg the Hermitage Museum, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the Peter and Paul Fortress are must see locations but the most beautiful and charming places in winter time are Tsarskoe Selo and Pavlovsk with their splendid palaces and snow-covered parks. Here visitors can take the famous Troika sledge rides. To add a really Russian flavour to your visit you must try a banya. At the Taleon Imperial Hotel we have our own banya complex with a professional bathers and masseurs. What does the Taleon-Hotel offer its guests this winter? The Taleon Imperial Hotel is offering special dinning menu created by our chef Alexandr Dregolsky for the Christmas celebration. This New Year’s Eve will be filled with the sounds of three centuries of music. A performance by Dmitry Gaivoronsky, a renowned virtuoso pianist, who has thrilled Europe and America with his musical improvisations, will be the highlight of our New Year’s programme. We will also have our traditional Kids New Year Party so the entire family can enjoy the festivities. Describe your job in a few words. My job fascinates me. It is not just a job but also a lifestyle. My work gives me constant development, and a chance to learn new things day after day. It is extremely rewarding to see that our guests appreciate our work and enjoy their stay in St. Petersburg – it makes my work very satisfying.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a,

MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveller Olympia Garden is a hotel that does things right. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFL� GKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings more Finnish style to the city. Rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired Repin Lounge restaurant and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the historic side of Vasilievsky Island, it‘s close to key city attractions. Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh

3 Stars AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www. azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 floors. This is the tallest building in this part of the city and the new Sky Bar has panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves great pizzas. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhh

Romance is in the air Spring has not quite made it to the Northern Venice but by February there is already the scent of romance in the air. With Valentine’s Day, Men’s Day and Women’s Day all falling within three weeks now is the time to show your better half how much they mean to you. Make this holiday season special with some of St. Petersburg’s most luxurious hotels, offering exquisite dining experiences and packages including massages and theatre visits, to make your holidays as relaxed as ever. Escape the cold and enter into the fabulous luxury of Russia’s holiday season by celebrating your love.

Taleon Imperial Hotel

D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com Valentine’s Day. What can be more romantic than a candlelight dinner to the sound of a grand piano with the elegant surroundings of an 18th century palace? The Taleon’s master chef Alexander Dregolsky has prepared a gourmet menu with treats that are perfectly matched to the exquisite Spanish San Valentin wine. The climax of the meal comes with the desert entitled Romeo and Juliette. QPrice is 7,000Rbl per couple. Taleon Spa. The Taleon Spa offers couple two romantic spa programmes to relax in luxurious comfort. Experience a range of indigenous recipes for health and beauty from Africa, Mexico and Polynesia including coffee exfoliation with baobab oil, moisturise your skin using cactus extracts and enjoy a Polynesian massage with Tahitian monoi oil.

Hostels Cubahostel D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW Simple Hostel D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com. Simple Hostel is no frills approach to comfortable travel at a reasonable price. The hostel has a stylish, minimalist interior design and offers rooms for two, four and eight people. Guests are offered a simple breakfast in the morning of fresh bread and fruit and the kitchen is equipped with a coffee maker so you can stay charged throughout the day while sightseeing. The friendly staff speak a number of foreign languages and are familiar with the latest exhibitions and are happy to arrange tickets for theatres, concerts and excursions. Q7 rooms (Room prices start at 650Rbl). PAGW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com Valentine’s Day. For Valentine’s Day Pastry Chef Pascal Galette will create confectioneries that will be a wonderful romantic present for the ladies – with fillings made of lavender, rose, violet and jasmine. These fillings will be brought to St. Petersburg from France where they are grown next to the Chanel rose gardens. Pascal will also make his personal version of the marshmallow flower which will be available at the Mezzanine café 1-14 February. A romantic evening awaits guests on 14 February at the Restaurant Europe and the Caviar Bar. The menu, which has been planned by Glen Cooper, who himself is in love, offers rich seafood dinning offering the ladies a delicious meal without the guilt of calories. The set menu costs 3,500Rbl per person. Meals can also be ordered à la carte. The desert, Wounded Chocolate Heart, is also available on Valentine’s Day at the Mezzanine Café.

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl.

Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Breakfast 480Rbl. PHAULGKW hhh

Grand Hotel Europe

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22

D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, ww.kempinski.com/stpetersburg Valentine's Day. Surprise your special someone with the romantic getaway to the top floor Bellevue Brasserie restaurant. Surrounded by the famous landmarks of St Petersburg, you both can enjoy an exquisite Valentine's Day menu designed by chef Christophe Laplaza specially for Her and for Him for a dinner on 14 February 2014. QPrice is 4,500Rbl per guest. Lovebirds’ paradise special offer. When you truly love someone, you always strive to surprise your loved ones with something extraordinary that will make them happy and show them your true feelings. One of the most treasured gifts is time spent together. Book a Lovebird’s Paradise Night at the Kempinski and declare your love in luxury, style and romance. QPackage price is 150,000Rbl for two guests. Package is valid from 10.01.2014 to 30.12.2014. Reservation upon availability and advanced booking by (+7) 812 335 9111 or reservations.moika@kempinski.com. Maslenitsa. Maslenitsa is a Russian pre-Lent carnival, a time of exuberance before the strict observance of Lent. From 24 February to 2 March, enjoy the delicious bliny (pancakes) at the Von Witte Bar and Bellevue Brasserie restaurant and take pleasure in celebrating one of Russia’s oldest traditions.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. Valentine’s Day. Celebrate your love at the Four Seasons on February 14 and 15 with a seven course gourmet meal. Those who want to enjoy a meal in the lovely environment of the Sintoho restaurant and then enjoy the evening at the theatre can choose an additional package which will deliver them to the Mikhailovsky Theatre to see the Nacho Duato ballets. The meal is 6,000Rbl per person and the theatre package is 20,000Rbl per person. Or visit the Tea Lounge and enjoy On an evening in Roma with an exquisite five course meal prepared by chef Anthony Genovese and Andrea Accordi and enjoy an evening of fine food and classic Italian jazz. The evening costs 5,000Rbl. At the Percorso restaurant you can relax with a romantic five course meal, for 4,500Rbl per person. Men’s day – 23 February. Gentlemen and Tonic is the order of the day at the Percorso restaurant. Come along and pick up a 007 martini on arrival before sitting down to a fabulous four course meal. The meal will be accompanied by some savvy tips for how to always be stylish and a cabaret show with impersonations of all time movie darlings Marilyn Monroe, Kim Basinger and others. Women’s day – 8 March. Dine the night away in Italian style with a special meal by guest Italian chef Andrea Mattei at the Teal Lounge. The evening will be accompanied by an Italian Jazz band playing throughout the dinner and the ladies will be offered a Lovely Lady cocktail – along with a pink rose, all for 5,000Rbl. At the Persorso, ladies come wearing their gloves. Treat your lady with champagne on arrival and a four course menu. Make the most of the night by dancing it away with a live DJ. The Sintoho Restaurant offers the most romantic of evenings with a cocktail greeting and gourmet meal for 6,000Rbl. Pick up the Romeo and Juliette package and visit the theatre with transportation included for a total of 22,000Rbl.

February - March 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€ PTASW Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu - which is frequently updated - has a selection of fresh homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accommodating to foreign guests and the service is very friendly so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. We recommend you to book a table in advance. QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Fri, Sat. €€ PTAGSW

NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself part of the night‘s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PAESW

Symbol Key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking V Home delivery

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

W Wi-Fi connection

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants Cafes and Coffee houses Brooklyn Local D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 27, MNevsky

C UISIN E

SKY

pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 89 55. This cafe aspires to recreate the hipster cafe environment of the gentrifying New York borough. They‘ve got the moody black and white urban photos, comic book sheets alluding to Gotham on the walls and classic to go cups, though the staff lacks that aloofness and are genuinely concerned about your experience. Best of all, though, the bagels are damn near perfect. They come lightly toasted, crispy and chewy.Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. € PSW

BAR

Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor),

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23, www.singercafe.ru. In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian and European dishes like borsch and pelmeni. The staff all speak English very well. Note the daily specials - every day they cook something new with seasonal ingredients. Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. In the morning they serve a good breakfast. QOpen 09:00 23:00. €€ PTAGSW

Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., tel.

Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, business centre “Arena Hall” tel. +7 (812) 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru Olivie D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72, oliviecafe.ru. Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef‘s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it‘s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTAGSW

Asian and Indian King Pong D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. € PTAEGSW Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 812 932 82 17. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on Kazanskaya ul. has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and cookies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. € PAGSW

Caucasian and Central Asian Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. € PTALVESW

Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Kharcho is a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian, it‘s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Q Open 24hrs. €€ PTALVESW

and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTALEGSW

Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There‘s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€ PALVSW TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip, modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out, abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies, and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive - notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows, they are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the food as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper sauce, which is something of a small hit here, and also their famous wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don‘t be afraid to ask the waiters to mix you something special. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PALESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants International Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra

Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PAESW

European Cafe Berlin D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel.

(+7) 812 943 23 32. A new café offering the best cuisine, located on the charming little Italyanskaya ulitsa in the central city. The café‘s name is directly connected to Berlin - the world‘s capital of modern art which is known for its lively and energetic atmosphere. Specialising in meals from different countries, the café uniquely presents global trends in cuisine. The freshest oysters and mussels, homemade pasta, burgers, homemade pastry, along with the democratic pricing policy are certain to impress visitors. Cafe Berlin offers classic cocktails, with each drink having an individual approach: rum is poured on the leaves of kaffir lime, gin - on fresh raspberries, bourbon - on cherry. In the morning you can have breakfast or grab a take-away coffee. In the evenings, the latest musical projects from Europe and the USA perform at Cafe Berlin. QOpen 08:30 - 06:00. €€. PAESW

Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel.

(+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. € PAGSW

The Art of Eating В-3, Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta. com. Located in the basement of the Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup, pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you, especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with fennel, smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has specialised in Mediterranean cuisine. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Tue 12:00 - 17:00. € PTASW

Fine dining Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39,

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www. thehotelastoria.com. Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova‘ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac‘s Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€€ PTALW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe,

Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe's elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff (made according to the recipe of Baroness Stroganoff herself), but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d'oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city's only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00. QOpen for lunch 12:00 - 15:00, dinner 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PALEW

Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. Entering Legran is like stepping back into a different era. The interior is tastefully laid out in the style of the Italian baroque and the vaulted ceiling creates a novel and appealing environment with a real sense of space and luxury. The staff are attentive and service is efficient. Legran offers a European menu and traditional Russian menu for those who want to treat themselves to full grandeur of Russia’s culinary past. The restaurant is a short walk from the State Hermitage Museum, making it the ideal place to relax with friends and family after a day of culture. Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such as cooking classes, on holidays and weekends.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€ PTASW

Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing fivecourse special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PTAEW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€ PTALSW Meat Head D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.meat-head.ru. is set in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting with well spaced-out tables enabling intimate conversations. With meat being the main player we ordered the strip loin steak. While tasty we had asked for it medium, and it came out bloody. When we asked a waiter about this, we were told it was medium, not a good sign for a steakhouse, where a knowledgeable staff dedicated to the client getting what they order should be the highest priority. Besides the steak mishap, the food was very good, although overpriced. The menu is quite diverse and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails with liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak house, yet the service and quality, while not bad, is not at that level. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW

Paradise D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59. We weren’t sure if we would get a seat after being warned by a sign at the entrance that there was strict face control, even if you have a reservation. But we succeeded and were treated to a decent meal in rather opulent, club-like surroundings. The menu is pure pan-Asian: rolls, miso soups, wok dishes and deep fried appetizers and everything we tried was prepared in a timely manner, with a good selection of accompanying sauces. There is a wide range of cocktails and the Mai Tai we enjoyed was good if overpriced. It is not a restaurant as much as an oversized chill out lounge, where the food is merely a background item, something one needs to sustain themselves while sitting for hours and people watching in the cavernous surroundings, smoking a hookah, drinking sumptuous cocktails, and enjoying the café’s karaoke nights and occasional concerts. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAESW

To read about even more restaurants and cafes in St. Peterburg check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72 February - March 2014

Restaurants Russian Cuisine Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually finds its way into everything.

Restaurants Polyanka E-3, Kolokolnaya ul. 10, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 92 10. This comfortable little café is located in the historic centre of the city. The café offers an international of some of the best known and best tasting dishes from around the world, with its own original interpretation. The wine list deliberately includes lesser known but nonetheless interesting wines from smaller wineries. Polyanka also does breakfast and lunch. Keep your eyes out for the café‘s mascot Lida the stuffed duck who has a history all of her own. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Schengen E-2, Kirochnaya ul. 5, MChernyshevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 922 11 97. Schengen is a small restaurant with obliging staff and a pleasant atmosphere. Its high wooden ceiling is reminiscent of a country home while ceiling high glass windows give a you an unimpeded view of Kirochnaya ulitsa. Schengen offers a wholesome menu at reasonable prices and makes it a popular location for students wanting to spend a pleasant evening together and families. Located a short distance from Chernyshevskaya metro station, Schengen is close to the Tauride Garden which is worth a stroll any time of year. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Bliny and snacks

Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgushonka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads

Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка). Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishes

Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Sunduk E-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. A dinner at Sunduk can turn into an entire evening of good company, and good music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

Teplo C-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 45, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 19 74, www.v-teple.ru. In essence, this is a place that lives up to its name. Meaning warmth in Russian, Teplo is a winner. Things are done here subtly and well. The understated homely decor, the thoroughly intelligent menu, the delightful service all make coming here similar to dropping by your best friend‘s house and having a bite to eat in their lounge room or on their patio or in their kitchen full of freshly baked pies and breads. Indeed wherever you end up eating, you‘ll linger, eat, drink and put off leaving. Q Open 09:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00 € PTASW Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel.

(+7) 812 314 34 00. Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It‘s not exactly easy to find, but once you do - you can‘t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you‘ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960‘s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gincream sauces, pickled beet-root or even any pickles that they produce themselves. All these things are nicely introduced with the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled eggs or fried green beans which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar also offers hip cocktails and irresistible desserts, which are worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PTAESW

Stopka - Small vodka glass st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Italian Il Lago dei Cigni A-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky

ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. Q PTAESW

Makaronniki C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrovsky stadium, Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines. In warm months the menu fits the location with rooftop al fresco dining available, revealing unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. The menu is changed each season with a winter menu of 28 dishes having been specially devised by Italian chef Andrea Dolciotti. During winter months the inside restaurant is a cosy escape from the St. Petersburg chills and offers a slice of Italy with great wine. Live jazz performances on Fridays. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€ PTALSW Palermo E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone‘s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW Percorso D-3, Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Peters-

burg, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 44, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. Italian to the core, this restaurant combines a magnificent interior with great food. You want to see the chef preparing the food, or rather sit near the fire, perhaps you prefer a view on St. Isaac‘s square and cathedral? It‘s all possible here at Percorso, decorated with beautiful chandeliers, art and comfortable seats all in a warm setting. Staff is smiling and welcoming and happy to help you pick and choose the best it has to offer, which is a lot. Fresh seafood, delicate meat, homemade pasta, cheeses and more. Combine that with a nice glass of wine and you‘ll have a great night out (at least we did). Prices are more than reasonable for a restaurant of this kind. Q €€€. PALW

True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994

20 years

Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel.

(+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. € PTASW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru February - March 2014

Restaurants Rubinshteina Street

Ulitsa Rubinshteina is today known for its plethora of diverse bars, cafes, and restaurants and there is even talk of making it a pedestrian zone, one of the few such places in the city centre. Initially an alley that appeared in the 1740s, it received the name of Troitksy pereulok in 1798, before its upgrade to the status of Troitskaya ul. in 1887. It was renamed in honour of composer Anton Rubinshtein (1829-1894) in 1929. He lived for a number of years at house 38. Considered one of the 19th century’s premiere piano virtuosos and the author of 20 operas, he also founded the St. Petersburg Conservatory (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow Conservatory). At the beginning of the street if walking away from the McDonald’s on Nevsky (for your reference: odd-numbered buildings will be on your right and even-numbered ones on the left) is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey Aleksandrovich (House 1), the boarding houses of P.K. Palkin (4) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a rather new structure, having been built by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an early constructivist style by architect Andrey Ol (7). Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous for lifting the spirits of Leningrad residents through radio addresses during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. She called it the “most absurd building in St. Petersburg”. It is called Dom-kommuna inzhenirov i pisateley (Communal House of Engineers and Writers), and informally known as Sleza sotsializma (the tears of socialism). This is a classic example of socialist housing philosophy as these domkommuna buildings were supposed to become the norm for the proletarian idea of the communisation of everyday life. Across the street at the corner of Grafsky pereulok (18) is the Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky Teatr, where a theatrical museum and library is also currently housed. This building was constructed in 1837, and reconstructed in 1899 by architect Aleksandr Fon Gogen (1856-1914) who himself lived at this address for ten years.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants Following up on the right is the boarding and meeting house of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Many different institutions were located in this building over the years, including the St. Petersburg Assembly of Artists, the head office of the Journal of the Ministry of the People’s Enlightenment, the Arctic Society, etc. Beginning in 1981, it also was the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicentre of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by the KGB, it was the first legal rock music venue in the city and legendary bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium performed there regularly. The next building is the boarding house of count Mikhail Tolstoy (1845-1913), designed in the Nordic National Romantic Style (15-17). Tolstoy was a hero of the RussianTurkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built just before his death between 1910-1912. The design of this building is quite complex with three arches that lead through separate courtyards from Rubinshteina to the Fontanka Canal. Among the many famous people that have resided in this building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012), the Soviet crooner who became famous in the last years of his life for the Youtube sensation, Trololo. Two famous writers lived in building 23: Soviet science fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) and journalist and writer Sergey Dovlatov (1941-1990). Yefremov is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which tells the story of a communist utopia set far in the future. Dovlatov lived in this building in a communal apartment for several decades before immigrating to the United States in the late 1970s. Known for his clear depictions of Soviet life and its absurdities, he was influential in samizdat (self-published works) in the Soviet Union, and helped put Russian New York on the literary map. Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova) to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection in all of St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he was arrested during the Great Purges in 1937.

Restaurants on Rubinshteina street Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. € PTAGSW

Mops E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 961 92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is truly exquisite. Mops cultivates the appearance of elegant chaos. It has a terrace and three rooms to meet varying tastes, offering you a cosy spot to smoke a hookah or to sing your heart away in the karaoke hall. The unusual interior design emphasizes contrasts and claims to be aimed at those with an ‘artistic personality'. The restaurant’s Thai chef who produces authentic, unadulterated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains. They also have delicious cocktails. For those looking for a full Thai experience, the restaurant also has a massage salon in the nearby courtyard.Q Open 14:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€ PAS 2

Pepper Moon E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/ peppermoon. From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your table. The menu offers European dishes, as well as Asian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. Note the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. You can choose what you want, and how it is cooked. In the morning, Pepper Moon serves a good breakfast of porridge, cheese cakes, pancakes, and fried eggs. Q €€ PTASW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet

Shchastye (Happiness) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17,

MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www. schaste-est.com. That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. European cuisine.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

SoUsy E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 947 35 72. It has an unusual format for a restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six dishes, salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be served a set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on the menu, and you can order any one you like separately) to complement each dish. In the background, they exclusively play classical music, and there is a string quartet every evening. European cuisine. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW

Vinostudia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Vinostudia derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to sip great wine, this is a good choice. European cuisine. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00 €€. PASW

Music&Bar MOPS VIP-Karaoke Club Thai cuisine restaurant address: Saint-Petersburg, Rubinshteina str.12 tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90, +7 (921)961-92-21

Exclusively designed and deeply therapeutic: Massages Facials Spa Rituals Best Traditions of Thai SPA and Massage in St.Petersburg

Highly professional therapists from Thailand address: Saint-Petersburg, Rubinshteina str.12 tel.: +7 (911)928-44-50 www.mopsspa.ru

Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.) and ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). Q Open 24hrs. € PTASW 1 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Restaurants Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island Vasilevsky Island is located at the mouth of Neva River – one of the many islands that make up St. Petersburg. The Strelka (arrow) spit of the island gives great views of the Winter Palace and Peter and Paul Fortress and is the ideal location to capture images of these magnificent buildings. It is also a frequent photo stop for newly weds.

Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Churchkhela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building above a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard to find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was helpful, supplying an English menu and recommending dishes. They have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty meals and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well as a business lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Overall the restaurant is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and somewhere to return to! Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW Grad Petrov C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 5, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 01 37, www.diekneipe.ru. This trendy beer restaurant with red brick walls and wooden furnishings serves a lighter version of classic German food and homebrewed beers. The lager, hefeweizen, pilsner and dunkel beers are brewed in house to classic Bavarian methods, and you can even arrange to have a tour with their friendly brewmaster. We like the sausage dishes; if you‘re hungry we recommend the metre-long Thuringer sausage. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Restaurants KwakInn C-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. A Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the long-gone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says - settle in, we‘re all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub (the yellow walls bringing a lot of light to what should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with the odd tv here and there showing the football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the journey. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAS Lapsha C-2, Kadetskaya liniya 9A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 920 44 14, www.probka.org. The first thing that grabs your attention upon entering Lapsha (Noodles) is the designer interior. The white walls, trendy furniture and a red scooter in the corner provide clients with a fresh, chic place to have a meal. The menu, while rather small, covers Chinese, Thai, Indian and Italian cuisines. The chicken curry, Pad Thai and dim sum are among Lapsha’s specialties. All items on the menu are marked for their level of spiciness, but, conveniently, all dishes can be spiced to order. Italian pasta dishes provide options for those who are not so fond of Asian cuisine and a children’s menu gives picky children something to eat.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVSW Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW

Wild Duck B-2, 7-ya liniya 72/17, MVasileostrovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 323 80 88, www.wildduck.su. Any place that has an actual live duck walking around cannot be bad. Luckily, it is a tame one and it only ads to the already warm and cosy interior of the Wild Duck pub. This place does what it has to do and does it well. The food is good (a lot of duck dishes), the beers are cold and the wine-list is sound with a few prizes among them. The interior is spacious and offers different types of seating, the middle room is really impressive, with the fireplace, the wooden chandelier and a world map on the floor. They recently celebrated their two-year anniversary and we can only hope it keeps up for many years to come. Wild Duck is located a short walk from Vasilevsky metro station and works well as a restaurant or as a great place to grab a few beers with some finger-food while watching soccer. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€. PAEW 1

Beer Restaurants and Pubs Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl.,

tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW

Manneken Pis Moskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW Craft Bier Cafe E-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.craftpub.ru. Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft‘s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. And one more thing. This is the Olympics-free bar how they call it. So if you are not interested in sports or just don‘t like to be surrounded by crazy sport fans, Craft is the perfect place. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€ PTAEGSW

William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. Another local homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Bringing In The Beer If you are looking for a beer with culture you can taste you can’t beat a Belgium brew. Belgium beer is older than the country itself. The first brews were made by Cistercian monks at the time of the First Crusade at the end of the 11th century. Back than the low alcohol beer was considered a healthy alternative to water – something which most visitors might well appreciate! The monks brewed the beer to support their monasteries. The history of modern Belgium brews begins in the 17th century when the abbot at La Trappe Monastery in France decided the Cistercian’s were becoming too libertine and set down a strict code for brewing beer and staying seriously devout. With the French Revolution many of these devout and devoted brewers fled to Belgium – where beer is appreciated regardless of religious affiliation. The monks established a national tradition of fine beer. Another feature of Belgium beer is that it is served in a range of goblets and chalices. These ornate glasses give you a novel drinking experience. The beer produced by these monks is known as ‘Trappist’ beer and is considered one of the best brews around. The proceeds of all Trappist beers go to supporting monasteries and charitable organisations. So next time you want to treat yourself to some high quality beer, look out for a Belgium brew, it’ll taste good, has class, and you’re helping to make the world a better place.

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – Two beers please! February - March 2014

nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!

Bars and Pubs BARSLONA E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, www.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and flavoursome. The Barslona brand has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PASW Chroniki E-2, Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya,

tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Soviet-era watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cozy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you the a great view of classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol with numerous varieties of vodka including Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations. The bar also offers Crimean port wine Massandra, locally brewed craft beer, and a house-special cocktail Free Ingria, inspired by the eternal confrontation between St. Petersburg and Moscow. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW

Epsilon E-3, Ul. Lomonosova 13, MVladimirskaya. Brought to you by the same person who founded Fidel on Dumskaya and club Griboedov, Epsilon‘s resembles your standard St. Petersburg dive bar: cheap booze, loud music and a lack of sufficient seating. However, the one thing that sets Epsilon apart is the choice of decorations. Called a “Science Club” instead of a nightclub, Epsilon is cleverly decorated with chemistry beakers, books and retro table games. Instrumental music and a movie projector, which projects movies like The Godfather, help round out the cultured vibe. If you are able to snatch a seat, Epsilon is a place you can sit and chat with friends for hours, but if you want to do this, on the weekends you need to get there early. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Helsinki Bar C-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that‘s the case if you were Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel.

(+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafebar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Rugby House Pub F-3, Poltavskaya ul. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 95 49, www.rugbyhouse. ru. Bound to be a favorite among sports fans in general and rugby fans in particular, the recently opened Rugby House Pub fills in a void in the city. The only place where rugby is shown on large screens and where the multilingual owners are big fans. The bar serves regular and tasty pub food for very reasonable prices and there is a good choice of beers on tap available as well. A fun place really, quickly discovered by Russian and foreign rugby fans and it seems to become the perfect home base for them. They also have some board games for you to play on quieter days. This pub is centrally located, a short walk from the Moscow Railway station. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. €. PAW Terminal Bar E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 13a, MVladimir-

skaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23. The friendly owners here, who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A simple but clean bar, chatty staff and a good mix of happy regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW

February - March 2014

Nightlife Clubs Dacha D-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr.. This place gets

really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Fever D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www.karaokebarfever.ru. With the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. From the drinks menu to the 500Rbl songs everything in the joint in fact screams spending money is being glamourous. That being said, the sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it‘s length and breadth. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW

Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Nightlife Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Cocktail bars Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. Friendly, professional staff is a nice bonus.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

The Office: Nargilia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 30A, 4th floor, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 980 76 46, www. nargilia.ru. Entering Nargilia you will immediately be greeted by the smell of scented tobacco. This establishment caters for those who like the idea of spending an evening in the company of friends while smoking a hookah (kalyan). Nargilia has two seating areas, one where you can recline on bean-bags, the other where you sit at tables. The hookahs come in different size and shapes, some look as though they are straight from the Arabian Nights, others look like they have are the invention of a genius alchemist. Nargilia has a small selection of food, alcohol and tea but the reason people come here is to smoke. Background music includes electronica with a whiff of trance. The minimum table charge is 2000Rbl. To find Nargilia turn into the courtyard from Ulitsa Rubinshteina and then turn immediately left when you reach the courtyard. Q Open 24hrs. PAW Tsvetochki E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

Gentlemen‘s Clubs Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat are available and they will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires. Golden Dolls E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 33 43, www.golden-dolls.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Rhino Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 56 95, www.rhinobar.ru. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.

Night Life – Keeping safe A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and keep it safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks. Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Live Music Clubs St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring club acts and established local groups. If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru Club A2 B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Dada С-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru

February - March 2014

sightseeing

sightseeing Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,

Photo by Ilya Timshin St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Monastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28.

Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-

miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.

kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Y

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y

Hermitage

Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthro-

pology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Y

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

February - March 2014

sightseeing Churches and Monasteries Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.

Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centrepiece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.

St. Petersburg City Card Where ever you see this logo Y, it means you can get a discount or a free entrance at this venue with the Petersburg card. Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and discounts to many things this city has to offer, including museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years! Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 2,000Rbl, 3 days (72 hours) - 2500Rbl, or 5 days (120 hours) 3,000Rbl, and begins after the first visit to a museum or a tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City Card’ office in St. Petersburg, via the website, or in some hotels and Post Offices of the city (the complete list is available on the website www.petersburgcard.com

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

sightseeing Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Vladimirsky Cathedral D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladi-

mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor. spb.ru. There are usually crowds of beggars and pensioners selling antiques at the entrance of this striking onion-domed church on Vladimirsky prospekt. The Icons on the second floor are worth seeing and the interiors are breathtaking. It‘s said that in communist times, an underwear factory operated in this cathedral. In 1990, it reopened as a church. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00.

Museums Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV-

ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum. ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

State Museum of Political History of Russia D-2,

Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. The State Museum of the Political History of Russia is the successor to the Revolution Museum. It is housed in two historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the ballerina M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The new exposition ‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man and the state at the crucial moments in the history of the country. The period of the revolution between 1917 and 1922 is presented in the exposition ‘February of 1917. The Breakdown of the Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms ‘Lenin’s Study’ and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Committee of Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exposition ‘The Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The exposition ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl.

Modern Art Centres Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y

Museum of Soviet arcade machines D-2, Konyush-

ennaya pl. 2B, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 981 185 56 35, www.15kop.ru. This ‘museum’ highlights a part of Soviet Russia you would never thought existed – arcade games. The museum consists of a range of games dating to the late 1970s and 80s. Many of these appear to have been western counterparts. There are a couple of different shooting and sniper games. There is car racing, table hockey and submarine games where you attempt to torpedo ships. This is an interesting place to stop by and explore, especially if you want to reminisce about the good old 1980s or curious about what you missed out. The entrance is through a passageway into a courtyard from Kanal Griboedova. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 350Rbl.

Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Russian Vodka Museum Russian Vodka Museum C-3, Konnogvar-

deisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, w w w.vodkamuseum.su. This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.

Lyrical City F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum E-3, Kuzhnechny

per. 5/2, M Vladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk y‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apar tment and belongings). The audioguide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31. Y

Literatur e Museum

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, w w w. pushkinskijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian writers Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group.

February - March 2014

sightseeing

sightseeing Further Afield Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better weekend escape than spending some time at one of the many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the oncoming year. If you are tired of being cooped up at your apartment or in the office then head out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow fight. Dress warmly and have fun in snow.

Oranienbaum

A treasure trove at the Hermitage The State Hermitage Museum is famous for its art collection, however the museum also houses a treasure trove of gold masterpieces dating back to early antiquity and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box. The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back to the eighth century B.C. and traces the rise and fall of early Eurasian peoples as they lived and passed through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai and Siberia. The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from Central Asia. There art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast and it is in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths that we have a few depictions of these warlike people that inhabited a broad area of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory. Descriptions of the Scythians survive today in the works of Greek historian Herodotus. The Scythians were replaced by later tribes moving into the region including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians and Khazars. Each have left their archaeological traces behind. One of the more exciting displays is gold work of the Hunns who entered popular folklore under their leader Attila who invaded the Roman Empire in the fifth century A.D. during the time of the Great Migrations. Hunnic antiquities include gold adornments for clothing and headwear, highly decorated horse harnesses. The majority of these items come from burials in the steppes of southern Russia, where an alliance of tribes led by the Huns formed in the late fourth century A.D. The Hermitage also displays several interesting items dating to the pre-Mongol and medieval periods and reflect the deep Christian roots of the Early Rus including icons, medallions and crucifixes.

Plan Your Visit If you want to visit the gold rooms, book a tour with at the entrance of the State Hermitage Museum. It is possible to view the diamond rooms independently however the tours provide an amazing amount of information and for anyone who wishes to get the most out of their visit, it is well worth organising a guide to show you round.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

While the gold rooms are fascinating both for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the diamond rooms are also an impressive display of opulence and wealth, and skill. The rooms include a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars and include presents from the Orient, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls that were a diplomatic gift by Shah Nadir of Persia to the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a miniature table. On display is a remarkable ring used to draw the string of a bow made of gold with a large diamond, emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal. The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver scabbards and decorated with precious stones. Western European trends are also visible with rare examples of works produced by European craftsmen in the 16th and 17th centuries. They include pendants that were used not only as adornments and additions to clothing, but also as amulets. Typically such pieces used bright enamels, irregularly-shaped “baroque” pearls and precious stones of various colours. For the most part they were cut in the form of a step or a cabochon. One common motif from this period is the pendant in the form of a caravel, reflecting the age of discovery. A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish craftsmen in the late 16th century. Another pendant dating from the same period belonged to the great English seaman Sir Francis Drake. The jewellery collection is concluded with items produced by St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. The Imperial capital attracted craftsmen around Europe as there was a rapid increase in demand for skilled craftsmen. St. Petersburg boasted such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The imperial court and Russian aristocracy commissioned refined luxury items: watches and clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century. The traveller William Coxe, who visited St Petersburg in 1778, observed that the wealth and opulence of the Russian court exceeded the most luxurious descriptions. The exhibition also includes the work of Carl Fabergé’s workshop. While none of Fabergé’s famous eggs are on display there are a few items that enable the curious visitor to examine the delicacy and skill of his craftsmen.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis.

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl. Pavlovsk tel. (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Y Peterhof tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online. Y Pushkin tel. (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists. Y Strelna tel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Gatchina tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92, www.gatchinapalace.ru. Q Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. Admission to the park is free. Palace admission: 100 - 200Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. Peterhof

Pavlovsk

Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note than in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends.

February - March 2014

shopping

sightseeing Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk

Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.

Pushkin

The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.

Galeria Galeria E-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum

Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the Peterhof highway. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.

Gatchina

From Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431 or marshrutka K18; or from Baltiisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltiisky.

Kronshtadt

From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407.

Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace

Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the 18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).

Gatchina From the outside it may have the austere look

of a military institution, but step inside and you can tell that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, though the rooms are not as luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park with its many brooks and bridges is a great place to stretch your legs or have a picnic in the sun!

Kronshtadt www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic

naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolshevik‘s harsh revolutionary policies. The government‘s response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It opened in 1996, and, today, it‘s a charming place to wander and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other remains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadt‘s striking Byzantine cathedral has an excellent museum of naval and local history, although it‘s only in Russian.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Bookshops Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Shopping centres DLT Department store D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Nevsky Centre E-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Passage D-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Raketa Watches Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com

Ballerina Watch The ‘Ballerina’ watch’s design was inspired by the world famous Russian ballet and theatre. The red stars on the ‘Ballerina’ watch’s face refer to the ruby stars that were produced at the factory in 1934, and which adorn the tops of the Kremlin’s towers. Raketa watches have different designs on the back, and the ‘Ballerina’ watch features a unique bird and floral design. There are six strap options for the watch, including a genuine leather red strap, which matches the red stars, a white genuine leather strap to match the white dial option, a black genuine leather strap to match the black dial option, and a gold coloured stainless steel bracelet strap, which will delight everyone who loves timeless style. The ‘Ballerina’ watch is the epitome of the reliability of Raketa watches, the beauty of Russian women, and the glory of the Russian ballet.

Babochka multibrand boutiques:

Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. www.babochka.ru.

Status watch shops:

Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 www.status-watch.ru

February - March 2014

EXPAT AND LIFESTYLE

Shopping Russian Souvenirs

Gifts and Souvenirs

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special winter gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following:

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. This is one-stop shopping for all your souvenir needs, whether it‘s a handful of matroshka magnets for acquaintances back home or that upscale, unique piece of hand-painted lacquer for someone special. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU

Platok

A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

Shapka ushanka

I f you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops for a hefty price.

Art Boutique Dynasty C-2, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasileo-

Bosco Sport E-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 23 37, www.boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

Chocolate Museum D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. This designer-chocolate boutique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS Exclusive Amber Collection D-3, Passage shopping

centre, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 961 35 14, www.amber-collection.ru. Here you can find all manner of products made from natural amber (rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and much more). Also on sale are icons, paintings and amber containing fossils. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A

Valenki

Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware that are specially designed for walking in deep snow. They usually have no firm rubber soles ( just the basic shape of a boot) so if you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber kaloshes to cover them with to ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, it is said that they are so warm and well insulated that you can wear them with no socks on. In fact wearing them without socks is said to be good for you as the rough wool exfoliates the skin.

Vodka and Caviar

They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russk y standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. The gallery‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contemporary styles. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Onegin Art Gallery D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, famous Russian porcelain as well as traditional St. Petersburg themed paraphernalia. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. This is the shop to go to if you are interested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their designs feature many variations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals for children. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections.

Accountants and Lawyers Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen

09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)

D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky

pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Relocation and Supplies AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cultural Centres and Libraries American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.

amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library

im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library

E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Raznochinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrograds-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Business associations

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Getting Around

expat AND Lifestyle The Expat Experience Please tell us something about yourself. Hello, my name is Maarten Bogaerts, General Director of OOO Bogarts Butlers. Originally, I am from Belgium and have been in St. Petersburg for 1.5 years. Throughout my career, I have worked in hospitality and mostly as a butler. In this capacity I served different royal families, embassies and other residences. I enjoy sports and reading professional literature. Why did you decide to move to Russia? I frequently travelled to Russia because I always had a special attraction to the country: the people, the culture, the natural environment.... Eighteen months ago, I decided that the time was right to open a branch of my company here and moved to St. Petersburg. So far I haven’t regretted my decision, in fact, everyday I receive confirmation that it was the right choice. With your broad experience in etiquette worldwide, what challenges do you see in Russia? I prefer to speak about opportunity, rather than challenges. Of course, certain parts of history have not encouraged general etiquette here, however, this is changing. Russians are extremely interested in learning more about etiquette and protocol, which shows that they have the will to improve. Assisting everyone who is interested would be a challenge. On March 8 Russia celebrates Women's day, how would you rate the way women are treated in Russia in comparison to the West? I love the 8th of March celebrations! There is not one woman walking in the streets without flowers in her hand or a smile on her face. I like to see men in the street carrying their girlfriends’ purses or flowers. The attention women get on this day is not so common in the rest of the world and is a joy to see the respect they have in the private environment. On the corporate side, unfortunately, there are not as many women in the higher roles in Russia as there are in the West. We heard about your link to famous Russian poet Alexander Pushkin, what can you tell us about it? Every person who lives and works in Russia knows Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin. By sheer coincidence I met his last living direct descendant, Alexander Alexandrovich Pushkin, in Belgium during a charity dinner. He and his wife started the International A.S. Pushkin Foundation in order to help children in need in Russia. Since meeting them, I have supported their efforts and I organise the annual Gala of Russian Heritage in Brussels and other overseas events. In 2014, the goal is to expand the activities of the Pushkin Foundation in Russia, in order to help even more children towards a happy future. What is your favourite place to go to in St. Petersburg? I like to visit the palaces because of the history that occurred inside them and also because of the fact that it brings me back to the old days of serving the Royal Family. I really like walking along the Neva River and seeing the Winter Palace, Peter and Paul Fortress, St. Isaac’s Cathedral and other great monuments. They are such beautiful monuments and the light of the bright blue sky is so intense that I cannot help taking hundreds of pictures, every time.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

International Schools/Pre-schools

Public transport and Taxis

German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-

Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi Angel tel (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Clinics and Hospitals American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU

Entertainment Centres Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi-

mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAG Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW

Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.

Russian for Expats

Buses

Блин – Blin

Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Blin literally means "Pancake" but also slang for "Darn". The week of February 24 till March 2, 2014 is marked by the Christian celebration of Maslenitsa. This week celebrates the end of winter and also the last week before Great Lent. So, it's the last chance to pig out on delicious butter, cheese and of course, Russian Blini! Blin is not only a type of pancake, but also one of the most widely spoken slang words in the Russian language. Often translated into English as "darn" or "crap", it is uttered by people of all ages and used to express dissatisfaction with something.

Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-

iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Leaving St. Petersburg By Plane St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Pulkovo-3 recently opened and caters to both international and domestic flights. Please double check your tickets to make sure you are going to the right airport! Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl (US$70 or €50) to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is about 800Rbl (US$30 or €20) if you are travelling from the city centre. Those located near Moskovskaya can expect to be charge more like 300Rbl, while those coming from the north of the city can pay as much as 2,000Rbl. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (25-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl.

Dva Bileta Pazhalusta! – Two tickets please! February - March 2014

GETTING AROUND

Street Register 1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3 Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3

The entrance and exit of Pushkinskaya metro station are currently closed. Commuters are advised to use Zvenigorodskaya metro station.

Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2

Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3

BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. 1 NAB. VKI Y NE MALO

AKADEMIK

O MIR NTE59 KA KANTEMIROVSKY MOST

A PAVL OVA UL.

ALEX

Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3

Abbreviations Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt Pl. – Ploshchad Bul. – Bulvar Per. – Pereulok Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya

ATR

UL.

LITOVSKAYA

PR.

. AYA UL FEOD OSISK

SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.

SMOLNAYA NAB.

ODESSKAYA UL.

PROLETARSKOY DIKTATURI UL.

SHCHIKA UL.

Y PR

SKAY A NA 70 KRASNOGO B. TEKSTIL

Y RN

T YA

. NOVG OROD SKAYA UL

DEG

SKAY A UL

ILLOV

SU VO RO VSK 32

UL. POTYOMKINSKAYA

SKY 11

GR ECHE

SKY PR.

PR.

SUVO 16 RO 18 VSKY PR. 24

RADISHCHE

VOSSTANIYA UL.

HTINSKA YA NAB

KO ON ND DRRAT ATYYEV EVSSKY KY 1

CHERNYSHEVSKOGO

PR.

VOSSTANIYA UL.

RADISHCHEVA UL.

KOROLENKO UL.

MAYAKOVSKOGO UL.

CHEKHOVA UL.

LITEINY PR.

AKADEM IKA LEBE 1 DEVA UL.

MOKHOVAYA UL.

GRIBOEDOVA KAN. NAB.

SADOVAYA UL.

NI NS

VA UL.

PR.

BOL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.

FONTANK Y REK Y NA

MAL. DOVAYASA UL.

V ER K S K Y PR .

KRO N

KA YA N

AB .

MAL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.

KARAVANNAY A UL.

UL.

RS KA YA UL .

HO 18 Y 11 PR

LY MA

A B.

MALOOKHT

INSKY PR.

MALOOK

KIR

SIN

OMSKAYA UL.

ISPO LK

KH P E

AL.N EVSK OG O UL .

105

102

112

SKAYA UL.

UL.

143

126

CHERNYAKHOVSKOGO

145

DNEPROPETROV

UL.

LIGOVSKY

PR.

121

MYT

PO AR 16 LTAV KO SK VS KA 4 AYA UL YA . UL.

BOROVAY VAYA UL.

ON OVA

NST 32 AN TIN A

NINS 12 KAYA 14 UL.

DEGT YA

SKY PR.67

UL.

LIGOV

UL.

MAR ATA

SKAYA UL.

PUSHKIN

SK OG

ST OE V

DMITROV PER. SKY POVARSKO PER. Y

UL.

PUSHKIN SKAYA UL.

VLADIMIRSKY PR.

RIV 33 ER

NKA

NTA

DY UL.

RNAY A UL

LIGOV

AYA UL

DU MSK

ZOD. ROSS 3 I UL. 4

RUBIN 13 SHTEIN A

KA YA

TAM BO VS

TROV SK

AYA UL

SKA YA UL

NEZH

VORO

DNEP ROPE

R EK

IK Y

UL.

KAZA 7 NSKA 10 YA

BORO VAYA UL

OSSE

E SH

ORO

SKO OOZER GLUH

AYA UL

AD AY

TANN

AN TY

A UL SKAY

PRILU KSKA YA UL

NEF

RYBIN

PR.

Y ORON

Y PER

EGOROVA UL.

MOSKOVSKY PR.

UL. A UL KAYA ISKAY ZOVS OZHA RU M

EZDNO

OB KOY HOVS

UL.

PODY

OBUK

178

L. AU KAY

PR YA ZH VIT KI EB REK PSK S YN 9 OV KA AB YA S . UL. KA YA UL. GR IB OED OV AK AN 15 .

ES ICH

LIST

AYYAA DSSKKA OD ORRO GO NIIG ZVVEEN

ER VE KY PER. SSOVETSKY

IZMAILOVSKY PR.

ERGOFSKY PR.

YA UL. SKAYA KREMENCHUK

TS SO

. UL. UL YA YA . . ISKA YA UL VSKA UL HO YA VERE LSKA UK KA DO SSERP NITS ON BR BATAISKY PER. PO

STAROPET

MOSKOVSKY PR.

PER VINSKY DERZHA

129

RASS

FRUNZENSKAYA

UL EVV VT SE

UL.

OVA SOVA

149

YA OVA

PER. BOIT

PR.

UL. DROVYANAYA

KY LERMONTOVS

O SKO G KOV IOL TS

171

OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB.

PR. MOSKOVSKY

RO GO

R. PE

HA STAK

PER

NY AR OLY ST

PER.

UL.

PER.

AYA

INA UL.

R. PE

KY ASS SP

LSKY NIKO

OV KLIM

KY TOVS

KO AREN MAK PER. PR.

ON LERM

175

BALTISKAYA

OVA IVTS GR R. O PE NK NE

KY PR. VOZNESENSKY

BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL.

UL. SREDNYAYA PODYACHESKAYA

PER. MATVEEVA

CHAPAEVA UL.

HO Y PR

AYA

RSK

ALY

PU SH KA

CH KA

UL.

TS LO

AYA

189

OBVODNY KANAL

UL.

PER

KAN.

209

NEVSKY

RNY

UL.

KOVA KRYU

KY GLIN

Y PR GLISK AN . PER OY UL. AN A OV AK RM V.E

STEPANA RAZ

YAKORNAYA ULL BOLSHEOHTINSKY MOST

YA OVA

IYA

YA MOISEENKO UL. 21 SO 17 27 VE TS KA YA UL.

NOVOCHERKASSKY PR.

UL 5 .

TS KA YA UL. SO VE TS KA

UL .

SO VE

AL.

FONA

KOSAY A LIN

TSKA YA

7 YA

PER .

AYA

8 YA

49 33 2

SMOLNY PR.

KIR

NAB

MIKHAILOV SKAYA UL.

. Y PR LO VSK

CH KA

ALY M

APTEKARS KY

. DINA MO PR

RIVE R

PRR .

DO ZH S NO VO LA

VS KY

RYUKHINA UL.

Y PR. IRALSK ADM

PR.

UL.

9 YA

4 YA

UL.

KY RE

NKY

KOVENSKY PER.

BASKOV PER. NEKRASOVA UL.

ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.

UL. 41

NTA

SAPYORNY PER.

RDSKAYA

KIROCHNAYA

KAVALERGA

TVERSKAYA UL.

UL.

TAVRICHESKY SAD

UL. LSKAYA STAVROPO

FURSHTATSKAYA UL.

CHERNYSHEVSKAYA

SHOSS OSSEE

SMOLNY CATHEDRAL

TAVRICHESKY PER. 38

PARADNAYA

SHPALERNAYA UL.

VILENSKY PER.

UL.

OLN

PR.

NEVA GARDEN REVOLYUTSII

KHERA

BOLSHEOHTINSKY

NE VA RIV SM ER OLN AYA AN AY

LA BLU

NAB.

UL. SKAYA

SVERDLOVSK AYA

ORLOV

AYA UL.

50 41

RYLEEVA UL.

ARTILLERIS KAYA UL.

UL.

ESK AYA

MAR SHA

V PR

TAVRICH

LIS TO

L. AU NAY

NALICHN

ME TAL

PR.

NAL SE

PREOBRAZH. PL.

BELINSKOGO

TIN A

ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL. 59

MANEZHNAYA PL.

ITALYANSKAY A UL.

SHOPPING CENTER PASSAGE

KLUCHEVA ANTONO YA VSK AYA UL. UL.

POLYUSTR OVSKY

CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.

FURSHTATSKAYA UL.

BELINSKOGO PL. 6 L. AU INZH E N ERNAY

ITALYA ISKUSSTV PL. NSKAYA UL.

UL. SKAYA

PER .

ROITELEY UL.

L. 3

ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL.

KAZANSKAYA PL. NEVSKY PR.

KOM

UL. SOMOLA

NAB.

31 1

PESTELYA UL.

OLA UL.

YA UL. MOKHOVA

OY SOLYAN

I NAVK

R KA RIVE FONTAN

GAGARIN

LETNY SAD

Y KA

MARSOVO POLE

Y PR. PISKARYOVSK

AU NAY

LITEINY PR.

AYA UL.

AZHE LEBY

NEVSKY PR. 5 UL. AYA SK OR ADMIRALTEISKAYA UL. AYA SK OR M L. BO

PL. LENINA

KOMSOM

ROBESPYERA

SHPALERN

PR.

UL.

NAL

TOV

NKO UL

SHINA

LITEINY MOST

VA SE

ZHUK OVA UL

VA TU

11 ARSENALNAY A NAB.

NA ZOVA KUTU 34

MET ALLIS

ZAM

PR.

UL.

SKY 7

LESN

IEV ON MPS

EISK

ALT

RIVER

227

RIVER

PER. VOLYNSKY

SKY MINPER.

PR.

NNAYA LINIYA

VOZNESENSKY PR.

ISKY

VKA

MTS

ANGL

NA SKAYA

ASL YA

UL. PISAREVA

AYA

AYA UL

YA NAB RADSKA 22 PETROG

EISK

. A UL UD NAB. TR KAN. KOVA

A NIY

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

ALT

L. AU NAY ER L. AL BU

BLAGOVESHCHENSKY MOST

KRYU

IYA LIN YA 21

NIYA

LI YA

A NIY

IYA LIN YA

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

DVORTSOVAYA PL.

YA UL. SO VE 3 YA PR. 60 TS 17 KA 1 SO TA YA G ANICHKOV . VE 2 YA AN R LO MALO SHOPPING A UL. UL. GOSTINY DVOR TS Y EN VE 39 MOST NAB CENTER 1 NSKY OHTINSKY 94 SO USSKAY KA 43 OSTROVSKOGO YA 30 LEIT 96 NEVSKY EISK VE A RI SHOPPING YA 47 RK PARK STAROR TS RD PL. CENTER UL. CENTER ISKA 49 34 NEV KA VA ISAAKIEVSKAYA GL 54 GOSTINY VOSSTANIYA YA AN OG AYA PL. . DVOR RIVER UL. PL. MAYAKOVSKAYA 40 N. UL NN IKA 58 STREMYANN LSH . KA 81 MO 35 KO 12 GRAFS BO AYA UL. YA VA 8 A UL TRUDA L. LO KA 29 KY AY DO 64 U L. PER. SK PL. M 21 PL. VOSSTANIYA PR. 17 14 MTS 19 OR YA AU IBOEBAN ON 0 TA GO UNINA 11 GR VA L. M B. KO BAK CH NAY OSO 7 KH MU 74 NCH BO PE V 6 2 NA DO PO ER ER . SK R. CH N 3 74 SA KO 4 13 SO VA ARN GAL 27 Y NO KA NN 8 15 N NSKY UL. 14 Y PE 55 AY LT. KOLOKOLN SK 8 AY RSOOEZD SHCHER AU 15 AY R. AU IR A 15 R PR. 9 UL . UL. AYA AU KOV BA LOMONOSOVA L. 2 L. 2 DM PER. VSKY 39 KAYA PL. 31 L. DOSTOEVSKAYA 7 11 APR 7 . ZANE LO ZANS UL KUZNECHN MO I K KA AKS 1 YA 7 MO 59 TE NEV170 41 Y RE KA Y PER. UL. NO 7 LE IN 114 NS KY N 40 VLADIMIRSKAYA SK 17 38 SO PE 21 ISTOV A 13 ZHN 14 Y 2 AB. 15 VA 74 89 BR R. 7 PR HD AY AZ UL. SADOVAYA 104 15 . A DEKA 180 4 GR M 16 53 DZ 1 MARIINSKY 29 UL. 77 12 IRG 13 HAM SENNAYA PL. 18 ALEXANDRA RA18 THEATRE TEATRALNAYA BO 71 ORO 2 79 SV 16 NEVSKOGO ZY SENNAYA PL. 20 R BU 1 EF 9 O PL. EC EZ DSK LA MOST . IM DIN PL. ALEXANDRA HN ZH 74 29 PE OV SEMYONOVSKAYA SHOPPING 4 AY OY Y PR SK NEVSKOGO AY R. AU AU CENTER PL. AYA 13 A DN 30 UL. PER. 2 UL. GALERIA . L. 91 3 L. YA UL. 7 UL. 31 GORO 115 OV VA 50 NAB ZA 41 KY DO BRIST RE SA 44 . DEKA 51 NKY V UL KA 5 37 TA KO 7 9 4 ZA 109 FON 10 ATNI CH 1 Y PE PECH 60 L. ZVENIGORODSKAYA ZA . 2 1 R. AU A PR NIKOLSKAYA 60 SOYU AY OV SK AK PL. TRANSP EN 115 0 KORS POR M ORTTNY 11 O O NY PER LO 3 PUSHKINSKAYA R LIGOVSKY PR. KO . SKOG ALEXANDER NEVSKY DOVA K AN. N PIONERSKAYA RIVE GO AB. RIM GRIBOE 134 B. CATHEDRAL 62 KA PL. NA N. NTAN 84 11 FO 129 ROME UL. O KA 116 NSKAYA OG L. KAYA DN UL. AU NERS . VO AT 19 135 OB PR KANO L. 4 MAR 6 NY AU OD B. AY 21 . 27 SK NA 49 OR L UL A N G A A 2 N REKY TIN ZA KY 2 UL. PAVLOG AM Y KA 5 LABU AT 29 RAD NTAN 13 DN VAYA KY TYU SKIY O PER FO 1 INS . SHINA . TEKHNOLOGICHESKY SADO 15 PR LUBLPER. OBV 6 31 UL. INSTITUT ISKAYA UL. SKY 91 1 YA KRASNOARME 83 89 FONTANKA RIVER TROITSKY PR. KLIN 2 39 UL. 20 OBVO 2 YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA1 156 ISKAYA UL. DNOG 144 75 13 YA KRASNOARME 17 UL. 43 30 O KA 3 YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA N.N ISKAYA UL. 166 99 . 8 YA KRASNOARME 2 AB. 49 SKAYA UL. Y PR 4 YA KRASNOARMEI 1 ISKAYA UL. ELSK 9 YA KRASNOARME RIZHSKY PR. OS SKAYA UL. 5 YA KRASNOARMEI OBVODNY KANAL ISKAYA UL. ETSK 10 YA KRASNOARME OD 40 SKAYA UL. AL KRASNOARMEI 6 YA 52 UL M 2 . 30 L YA UL. 9 NA 11 KURLYANDSKA Y KA 7 DN KURSK 30 VO AYA OB UL. NA

LI YA 17

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65

AYA NE

IYA

NA AYA

OVSKA YA NA 1 B.

NIYA A LI AY

LIN

NA AYA

OV PIROG

IYA

ETSK

L. AU AY

KO OSH R. M PE

LIN

SIT

PIROG

SKAYA UL

CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.

ER. KY P RS EKA APT

LEEV DE MEN IYA

1 YA

3 YA

IVER

N ON ILLI M27 A OIK M

KUNSTKAMERA

O DV

HERMITAGE

DVORTSOVY MOST

UL.

. AB VA NE RTSOVAYA N

BIRZHEVAYA PL.

MENSHIKOV PALACE

IYA

LI YA 23

ZHE VE

A LI AY HEV16

IYA LIN

LIN

OVSK PETR

ER RIV

VOY PROEZD ZHE BIR

MINERALNAYA UL.

SMIRNOVA

KLINIC HE

CRUISER AVRORA

TROITSKY MOST

YA KA 10

IYA

A UL. VYBORGSKAY

PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS

MAKAROVA NAB.

TS 2

LIN

9 YA

BIRZ

7 YA

IYA

LIN

IYA

5 YA

IYA LIN YA

NIYA

Y PR HO

LIN 3 YA20

LI YA 13

V PE KA

LI YA 11

IYA LIN

5 YA

IYA LIN

4 59

9 YA

LINI

Y PR HO

TA MID SH

LI YA 27

BO 34

DETSK 99

A NIY

A NIY 85

A NIY

LI YA

KY PR

VANS NEGA SRED

SOBCHAK SOBCHAKA PL.

VASILEOSTROVSKAYA

A NIY

Y PE

B UBN

UL. NAYA

PR. NYY 0 DN SRREED 10

P RO

UL. ENKO SHEVCH

NALICH

SK Y

LI YA 21

S HK IP E R

A NIY

LI YA Y

IYA LIN YA

PR NY ED SR 76

UL.

PE R.

ED SR

ZOO

TROITSKAYA PL.

NAB.

BIRZHEVOY MOST

. PRR

ALY

LI YA 17

ICH

7 YA

EV SHH

UL. OVAN AL

IM KH

UL.

61 59

Y PR MAL

233

GA RIN BE

SEA PASSENGER TERMINAL

NAB.

N AB

BOLSH

PER

OLENKY REK Y

AYA KSK VER ON KR

T MY

3 YA

SKAYA NAB.

AE AP

BOTKI SAMPSONIEVSKY NSK AYA MOST UL. FINLYANDSKY PR.

L. AU HEV

KIMA PR.

AYA UL . BLOK HIN A UL .

PR.

UL.

BROL YUBO23 VA

TUCHKOV MOST ROVA

GORKOVSKAYA

Y SA LSHO

UL.

M ICH YS YB URI NSK KU 8 AYA UL.

FOKINA UL.

LYU

YA UL. CHUGUNNA

PER. NEISHLOTSKY

O KY

OEV

MAKA

PRIMORSKAYA

SPORTIVNAYA

VER

OG SK

SKAYA NAB.

AYA NEV A RI

NOVOSMOLEN

ZHELE ZN OVO

U YA KA DS

MAL .

PR.

SKAY A UL

A UL. VODSKAY ZHELEZNO

ISTOV

29 30

5 PER. KOGO 2 OVS AKH

Z VERINSK

A PR

DEK ABR

KIM

SYEZZHINSKAYA UL.

221

URA AL

KORABLESTROITELEY UL.

PASSENGER PORT “MORSKOY FASAD”

V ER K S K Y P R .

UL.

OG VSK HES

UL.

116

UL AYA

AYA

AYA UL.

MIRA

UL AYA

K RO N

BLIN

RSK

. AB

ETN BOL. MON AVSTRI AVSTRI SKAYA PL.

SK VERRK

NA UL. RENTGE

Y PR

PIO

VSK RO

BO UL . L. ZE GA 28 TCHI LEN NSKA INA 22 OR AN UL. YA UL. IEN UL . NAYA BAUM RPUS 30 23 NE KO SK AY RS CHKALOVSKAYA A UL KA YYA . 11 KA UL SH . VA UL. PU ASNO VOSKO M A L. GO KU 4 2 RSAN PION TA ZH 21 ER UL. VVED DA SKAY AU ENSK NO L. A UL AYA VSK 14 UL. . AYA13 UL.

. UL

AN AY

LVA TOLSTOGO UL.

KRON

YA KA

GRENADERSKY MOST

LENI

UL.

ORG

LEVASHOVSKY PR.

PETROGRADSKAYA PL. LVA TOLSTOGO

OST

A ADMIR48

PETROVSKAY A KOSA

KA YA

VSKY

NO EN M

MAL AYA

. KA AB NEV EVA N R AZ A LA L

ASHO LEV

PO CH UG UN NA YA

UL. HKOVA SMOLYAC VYBORGSKAYA L UL. SKAYA GRENADER

PR .

L. AU AY

IVN

YUZHNAYA DOROGA

DOROGA

TR OG

ORT

YUZHNAY AYA A YA

AYA

PR.

MO DINA

PR.

PROFESSORA POPOVA UL.

VSK Y

KRESTO

TINOVSKY PR.

MORSKOY PR.

L L. 3 OVA UL. ORA POP PROFESS

AYA UL.

BATAREINAYA

KRESTOVSKY OSTROV

DOROGA

BAROCHN

DORO SEVERNAYA

NA NAYA SOCH

APT

INA UL. CHAPYG

KONSTAN

VYB

20 74

KONDRATIEVSKY PR.

MEDIK OV PR

KORABLEST

This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

KAY AU L.

Y PR.

OSIS

FEO D

PROLETARSKOY DIKTATURI UL.

ODESSKAYA UL.

AYA UL. NOV GOR ODS

SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.

SMOLNAYA NAB. B.

UL. KAYA

SK A YA N

KIR ILLO V SK

AB. 70 KRASNOGO TEKSTILSHCH IKA UL. 76

PR . KY SU VO RO VS

YA R

3 30

INSKA YA NA

4 31

SUV 16 OR OV 18 SK Y PR. 24

YP 17 R. 1

GR ECH 3 1 E SK

RADISHCHEVA UL.

RADISHCH EVA UL.

PR.

LIGO V SK Y

VOSSTANIYA UL.

OKH T

E V SK RAT Y KON D YA UL. POT YOMKINSKA

PR. CHERNYSHEVSKOGO

KA YA N

NI NS

1 28

MAYAKOVSKOGO UL.

KOROLENKO UL.

CHEKHOVA UL.

MOKHOVAYA UL.

FONTANK Y REK Y NA

LITEINY PR.

VOSSTANIYA UL.

NNAYA UL

SADOVA YA UL.

MAL. SA DOVAYA UL.

MIKHAILOV SKAYA UL. -

L. BO

LS 7

AKADEM IKA LE 1 BEDEV A UL.

HO YP R.

RS KA YA UL .

KA YA UL . RS

PU SH KA

AL YP R. M 26

H O 18 Y 11 P R .

R. LY P

CHAPAEVA UL.

AL YP R.

PR . KY

LO VS

MALO

TINSKY PR

MALOOKH

ISPO LK

KH P E

AL.N EVS KO GO UL.

112

DNEPROPET ROVSKAYA

UL.

CHERNYAKHOVS KOGO UL.

LIGOVSKY 1 PR. 126

143

OMSKAYA UL.

10 TNIN

KH 16 POL AR TAV KO SK VS KA 4 AYA U YA L. UL .

105

102

BOROVA OV YA UL. AU L.

SL ON

SIN

SK A YA U 14 L.

RNA YA UL.

T YA

DEG

AYA U L.

PR. 30

LIGO V SK Y

AYA U L.

PUSH

SK OG

KINSK

UL.

MAR AT A UL.

ST OE V

PR AV DY UL .

PUSHK INSK

VLADIMIRSKY PR.

A UL

TEIN

RUBIN SH

DMITRO V PER. SKY POVARS PER. KOY

RIV 33 ER

NT AN KA

KARAVA

KAY AU L.

AYA UL.

KAZ 7 AN SK

5 ZOD. RO 3 SSI UL. 4

IK Y

R EK

DU MS

S T 32 AN TIN A

GR IB O 178

KO N

ED OV AK

KA YA

KO V

PER. MATVEEVA

KA YA

RE KY

HK I

145

R. NY P

ORO

P ER .

N OY

UL. YA YA A IS K SK A ZOV OZHA RU M

B OY O V SK KHO OBU

UL .

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery

YE ZD

AYA UL.

. UL YA KA

PR YA Z

V TS

S HE

POD

UL. AYA

DSK

T IC

.NA

KHA

L IS

K AN

ORO NIG Z VE

UKSK KREMENCH

TS SO

OGO

S TA

BO L

. U UL YA YA . KA UL SKA EIS OV YA A Y KH VER L SK PU SK A DO SER NIT PO ON BR BATA

OBV ODN

. UL

MOSKOVSKY PR.

SOVETSK

YA VA HO

PR.

. Y PER INSK HAV DERZ

IZMAILOVS

TOV LERMON

DROV YA

K IOL TS

KAYA UL. 2-YA KRASNOARMEIS 1 KAYA UL. 3-YA KRASNOARMEIS SKAYA UL.

K RO GO

MOSKOVSKY

SOVA

ER. YP

L. AU AY

KO REN AKA .M PER R. YP

. PER OV KLIM

R. PE

IT PER. BO

K OLS NIK

VOZNESENSKY PR.

BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL.

UL. SREDNYAYA PODYACHESKAYA

Y RN YA OL ST

R. Y PE

Y SK

ARN

V SK NTO

. UL

ISKAYA UL. 13-YA KRASNOARME 30 ISKAYA UL. 8-YA KRASNOARME 2

PR.

AS SP

FON

. NA

MO LER

YA NA

NEVSK Y

R. PE VA SO IV T GR ER. OP NK NE TO

. UL

PR. SK Y GLI AN R. PE . OY UL AN A OV AK RM

S YA

144

YA VA HO

M TA

UL.

DO ZH S

NO VO LA

CH KA

V ER K S K Y PR . K RO N

AB .

GRIBOEDOVA KAN. NAB.

PR .

LO VS

CH KA

RYUKHI

RIV ER

MAL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.

BOL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.

YAKORNAY BOLSHEOHTINSKY MOST

A B.

UL .

ETS 10 KA UL. YA 5 -YA S MOISEENKO 8-Y 21 27 UL OV 17 AS . ET OV SK ET AY SK A AY 7-Y AU UL AS . L. OV ET SK AY AU L.

Y NK GLI

K VA UKO

E V.

TS LO

OFFICE 20

156 166

The

K RO GO

KRY

UL.

Y PR

SKY MINPER.

L. AU . UD NAB TR AN. VA K UKO

PISAREVA

LISK A NG

SKY PR.

YA NA

PER .

BOL SHEOHTIN

33 2

9 -Y AS

KOVENSKY PER.

SHOS

SMOLNY CATHEDRAL

SMOLNY PR.

UL.

YA ARDSKA

KY RE

VILENSKY PER. BASKOV PER. NEKRASOVA UL.

ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.

UL . 41

UL.

KY AN NT

SAPYORNY PER.

KAVALERG

RYLEEVA UL.

UL.

KIROCHNAYA

TVERSKAYA UL.

ESK AYA

ARTILLERISKAYA UL.

TAVRICHESKY SAD

PARADNAYA

NEVA GARDEN RE VOLYUT SII 50

L YA U VSK A

FURSHTATSKAYA UL.

CHERNYSHEVSKAYA

P ER .

IV NKA R

PREOBRAZH. PL.

SHPALERNAYA UL. H TAVRIC

A N OY SOLY

L. VAYA U MOKHO

YA UL. INSKA GAGAR

FONTA

FURSHTATSKAYA UL. 2

YA UL. POLSKA STAVRO

O RLO

ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL. 59

SKY PR.

L. AU AY

A AN AY

50 41

4-Y AS OV 3-Y ET SK 1 A SO AY ANICHKOV . AU VE 2 A R B MALO SHOPPING A UL. -YA E GOSTINY DVOR N A TS MOST E L. V SKAY 3 N I CENTER T 9 1 OHTINS 9 S KA 4 R A 30 43 OV ORUS OSTROVSKOGO Y LEI 96 NEVSKY A SHOPPING YA A 47 PARK STAR E TS EV PL. CENTER UL CENTER ISK 49 34 N L K 4 ISAAKIEVSKAYA . G AY 5 A GOSTINY R VOSSTANIYA N Y E A A O A IV PL. DVOR UL 27 . L. N PL. AR MAYAKOVSKAYA 40 N SH U N IK ST . L REMYANN KA 81 58 MO 35 KO 12 GRA BO AYA UL. UL. YA VA 8 TRUDA FSKY YA L. LO 29 SKA DO 64 L. PER. SK A PL. 21 PL. VOSSTANIYA OEB 14 A U MO MT A PR. 17 19 OR AU 0 TA RIB ANK AY . GO UNIN 11 NO .M AY K H G V A L B B C N K 4 O 7 H MU 7 NC B PE OV 6 2 SO NA DO PO L ER R. SK CH HA N. 3 74 SA KO 4 13 ERSO VA GA 27 Y NO RN KA NN 8 15 N NSKY UL 14 YP 55 A LT. KOLOKO SK 8 AY RSOOEZD . SHCH ER 15 YA LNAYA AY AU . IR A 1 L R PR. 9 . U E 5 U UL. AU KOV RBALOMONOSOVA L. 2 KY L. 2 A Y DM P 9 E A 3 PL. R. E VS 7 31 L. DOSTOEVSKAYA SK 11 AP 7 Z AN L. LO Z AN U R A KU 9 1 A MO I K M K ZNECH AK 1 Y 7 5 TE L. NE 70 ON 41 NY PER Y RE KA SIN 7 LE VU VS 17 114 . NS OS KY N 40 VLADIMIRSKAYA 38 PE 21 RISTO OV 13 ZHN 14 K Y 2 AB. DA 15 74 89 B R. 7 PR AU AY ZH EKA SADOVAYA 104 RA 15 . A D L 180 4 G M . 5 DZ 1 MARIINSKY 8 29 UL 77 3 12 IRG 16 13 HA . SENNAYA PL. ALEXANDRA 18 RA1 THEATRE TEATRALNAYA BO 71 OR MB 2 79 SV 16 NEVSKOGO SENNAYA PL. 1 EF 20 Z Y RO OD 9 UL PL. EC EZ MOST . IM DI AP PL. ALEXANDRA HN SK ZH 74 29 PR NS O SEMYONOVSKAYA SHOPPING E 4 A O Y NEVSKOGO AY VA R. YA KA Y N 30 L. CENTER PL. 1 D A U P 2 3 UL 91 UL YA ER. O UL GALERIA . A L. R 3 1 B Y U . . 7 O U . A 0 115 L. 3 ZAG OV NA OV 5 41 RIST KY D E B A A S 44 YR DEK L. 51 NK VU KA 5 37 TA 7 IKO 9 4 ZA 109 FON 10 ATN CH H 1 C E YP . 60 AP L ZVENIGORODSKAYA Z . ER 2 U 1 PR AU . NIKOLSKAYA 60 SOY AY OVA SK PL. S AK TRAN EN 11 5 0 KOR SPOR M 11 O– O T N G L 3 Y PUSHKINSKAYA PER. ER LIGOVSKY PR. KO SKO ALEXANDER NEVSKY DOVA K AN. N PIONERSKAYA RIV GO . AB. RIM GRIBOE 134 CATHEDRAL 62 KA PL. AB .N TAN Founded by Peter 4 N N 1 8 1 KA FO 129 ROM UL. 116 GO YA ENSK . the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most A O L K N AYA U U D ERS A O L N T . . O 19 BV Trinity cathedral is important in St. Petersburg. The 135 RA OSt. PR KAN L. 4 MA NY A U cemetery, where you can visit worth a visit and so 6isAYthe OD B. 21 27 SK NA 49 O R L. L Y U A N G A the graves of Russia‘s composers and writers, EK A 2 greatest AN ZA YR UTIN UL. AM PAVLO NK 132 YK 5 LAB AT including Tchaikovsky, Glinka and DostoGR AYA 29 Mussorgsky, NTA DN SKY OV T YUS PER.ADSKIY FO 1 . VO LIN . TEKHNOLOGICHESKY H B R B IN S AD U 15 P evsky. See the full listing on page 42. R 1 L PE O 6 3 L. KY review on page 31 Find our review on 1-YA page 41RMEISKAYA UL. INSTITUT Find our91review on83pageA U30 KRASNOA NS 89 FONTANKA RIVER TROITSKY PR. KL I A NT

A DT MI SH

BLAGOVESHCHENSKY MOST

K RY

KOS AYA LINIY A

PISKARYOV

SKAYA NA

CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.

MANEZHNAYA PL. .

SVERDLOV

TAVRICHESKY PER.

SKAYA UL

A NAB.

BELINSKOGO BELINSKO11 1 PL. 6 L. AU INZH E N ERNAY ITALYAN

AYA NAB.

ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL.

PESTELYA UL.

SHOPPING CENTER PASSAGE

O KOMS

UL.

ROBESPYER

NE VA RIV SM ER OL NA YA

GO UL.

KAZANSKAYA PL. NEVSKY PR.

MOLA

UL MOL A

LITEINY MOST

our review on page 31

TINFind AU L.

NA SE

A UL. LERNAY

KOMSO

ARSENALN

LITEINY PR

SHPA

VOZNESENSKY PR.

SK OR ADMIRALTEISKAYA L. AU AL M AY SK R O M L. BO

PL. LENINA

I AVK

NEVSK Y PR. . UL A AY

IYA

ITALY ISKUSSTV ANS PL. KAYA UL.

VA TU

. UL YA NA ER L. L U B GA Y ISK E D AR GV

ISK

Y PER. VOLYNSK

K HEY YAZ LEB

ER. KY P RS KA TE AP

AL 3-Y

TE AL

UL .

MAR SH ANTO LUCHEVAYA ALA B UL. NOVSK LUKHER AYA U A PR . L. ME T ALLIS TOV PR .

PR.

R. YP NO

SK Y

YA INI

INA U

AU AY

LES

V NIE

VA UL .

L -YA –1

AN AY

KA OI

POLYUST ROVSKY ZHU PR. KOV AU L.

MINERALNAYA UL.

U VA

YA INI

AL AY

ISK TE AL

MARSOVO POLE

LETNY SAD

SO MP

SMIRNO

NKO

SA OY 13

AE AP

IL M27

DVORTSOVAYA PL.

NA OVA TUZ 4

VA S E

AMSH

L SH

A NEVK

N A B. KAYA 22

S TO

VSKY PR.

HAYA

S GRAD

B. A NA SKAY 21 R GOV RIVE PIRO

B OL S O PETR

HERMITAGE

KUNSTKAMERA

IR M AD

AYA UL.

L AU AY 7 NN RIVER L IO

DVORTSOVY MOST

A B.

VYBORGSK

CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.

O DV

BIRZHEVAYA

Find our review on page 28

. AB VA NE RTSOVAYA N.

ER RIV

L YA KA

PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS

N AYA T SK

KY PER. NEISHLOTS

. FOKINA UL

TROITSKY MOST

OV HK OS R . M PE

YA INI

Find our

ZOO

VOY PROEZDPL. ZHE BIR

INI

INI YA

IYA B NA

NAB. AYA KSK VER ON KR

MENSHIKOV PALACE

R SI IVE UN

EV ELE ND ME IYA

AL 3-Y 20

INI

PE KA

AL 5-Y

GORKOVSKAYA

MAKAROVA NAB.

AL AY EV ZH 1 6

V KO

BIR

CH 2-

4AL 7-Y

L -YA

YA INI

AL 3-Y

YA INI

-2

AL 9-Y

L -YA 21

YA INI

INI

AL 9 -Y

INI

-1

AL 7-Y -1

INI

L YA 27-

INI

AL 1-Y

LY AN

24 25 20

-2

. PR OY

YA INI

AL 3-Y

R. YP HO

L BO

YA INI

IYA IN

L -YA 19

ED SR

. PR NY 1 8

VASILEOSTROVSKAYA

YA INI

L -YA - 13

L YA 1 5-

L -YA 17

18 -2

IYA LIN

L YA 11-

16 . PR NY ED SR 76

UL.

YA INI

50 61

YA INI

AL 9-Y

YA INI

AL 7-Y

AL 5-Y

P LY

K SK Y PR .

BIRZHEVOY MOST

N AB

AL 3-Y

OLENKY REK Y

22 79

UL .

A UL

OVA PR.

KHIN

NAYA UL. CHUGUN

B OT K SAMPSONIEVSKY INSK MOST AYA UL . FINLYANDSKY PR. . L U A V E 5 H M KLIN IC H YS ICHE YB UR SKAY IN KU A UL SK . A 8 YA 3 P IR OGO UL V SK A . CRUISER AVRORA YA N 1 A B. A B. YA N TROITSKAYA SK A PL. ROV PET

AU SK A YA U L . L.

VA N A

. PR

LYU B

TUCHKOV MOST A RO

BRO

MAK

UL. AYA

SPORTIVNAYA

SK ERK

RIV ER

OG SK

BLO

K AYA

S OV TR

Z VERINS

T KO

A UL.

L AY AN EVA

V ER K RO N

AYA UL.

U YA KA IN

L SK

V VE DEN

SYEZZHINSKAYA UL.

KA YA UL .

UL OVA VO S K

BL I

M A L.

KA SH PU

PIO NE RS

AVSTRISKAYA PL.

K AY AU

KRO

CHKALOVSKAYA

NO EN M

. UL YA NA

T IV

SKAYA KO

PIO RP 30 23 NE KO RS KA YA UL KR . A SN OG OK UR S AN TA Z H 21 UL. DA NO VS 14 K A 13 YA UL .

AYA UL.

VYBORGSKAYA UL. SKAYA

PETROV

YA KA

ER GRENAD

O PETROGRADSKAYA A SH What’s only in the 1760s that Nevsky PL. LVA LE Vin a name? It was

LVA TOLSTOGO UL. AD beware of ice on streets GRand paths. The ability of Prospekt got its currentTOLSTOGO name. With Peter the Great still SK LEVASHOVSKY PR. AY Russian women to8 navigate alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it A Uicy streets in 6-inch .the A B L. K NA UL. V E Veighth GENAdecided to heels may seem likeNthe wonder of the world became Nevsky Prospekt. The communists A RENT L EN 23 RE IN A UL. A B AYA to most foreigners. ButZ they have had a lot name the the OL of training. UL . famous thoroughfare after the revolution: GA ONETN . ZE MALAYA IRAL A L A 28 TC H BOL. M M 48it is wiser to stick to comfortable LEN For the rest ofADus, 25th INS of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught 2 OR INA . K 2 L AYA U AN UL A UL. shoes with good grip.L. on and had to stick with the Nevsky monikerMIRinstead. AYA I EN Uthey . L. USN B

Y PR

GRENADERSKY MOST

NAYA U

VSK

R. OP

AM K Y PR Slippery Streets AsPETthe colder weather blows in DIN RO 40

OV S RE S T

KRESTOVSKY OSTROV

PR.

MORSKOY PR.

BAROCH

AN AY

INOVSKY 1

Russia

Moscow History

Introduction Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometers large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment – and attention – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not at a pace with the largest cities, it is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Winter is a magical time of year as the ice covers rivers and lakes and snow falls down on the cupolas of Russia’s ancient churches. It is also the time of ice-swimming, ice-fishing and warming up in banyas (Russian sauna). In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, and an additional four provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other cities are: Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia's early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin. In this issue you can read about Petrozavodsk, a city located in the beauty of Karelian wilderness and Kostroma, an historical city of contrasts. We also include Sochi, the hosty city of the 2014 Winter Olympics. Enjoy!

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.

GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red

Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.

The Kremlin Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.

The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open

10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

Inside the Kremlin

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia's Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin's robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.

Getting There Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

russia.inyourpocket.com St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Moscow

Veliky Novgorod

Soviet sightseeing

Russian Art

As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such as the iconic ‘seven sisters’ skyscrapers which are dotted around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Russian Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), where giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments to workers and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss out on a visit to the nearby Cosmonautics museum which boasts such historic memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, along with the pods they flew to space in.

For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl. Cosmonautics Museum Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val

10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Literature and Theatre Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Enjoy the great outdoors Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds.

Hotels Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under

arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. ru. hhh

www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Veliky Novgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod Kremlin

The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.

Hotels Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art nightclub‘. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7)

8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh

Restaurants and Cafes Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. You can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636 307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW

Getting There By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky station). By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses (journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours and costs 370Rbl.

February - March 2014

Sochi

sochi Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW

Sochi Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten thousand residents, a small expat community is working hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature of 23 degrees. The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.

Getting There Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say from experience. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 per day. The trains leave from different train stations (al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg takes between 37 and 57 hours. By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built along the coast. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard. When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport stadiums and high-speed railways.

Hotels Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, it will be hard to find them on the internet.

Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). PHA6ULGKDCSwW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Estosadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a threestar hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6UFLGKDwW Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� GKDCwW

Restaurants Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,

www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW

Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,

www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW

Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s airport, set amid magnificent scenery. It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively brief, from late December to April, but staff say the last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of the great outdoors. In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.

Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862

266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW

Sochi is the capital of the Winter Olympics 2014 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

Petrozavodsk

Petrozavodsk Karelskaya Gornitsa Ul. Engelsa 13, tel. (+7) (814) 278 53 00, www.gornica.ru. The creation of Finnish head chef Tarmo Vasenius, this restaurant is unique in serving Karelian cuisine. The great Karelian lakes provide the menu with a lot of fish, as well as wild animal meat, such as bear and deer, mushrooms from the forest, and drinks made from cowberry (brusnika) and cloudberry (moroshka). Gornitsa is an attraction in itself, designed to look like a Karelian peasant izba (house) with wood, samovars, and the red and white embroidered cloth that is traditional in the area.

Kizhi Open-Air Museum

Parizhanka Pr. Lenina 31, tel. (+7) 814 279 56 72,

paris.ptz-group.ru. “The Parisienne” is ubiquitous in Petrozavodsk, with nince outlets (see the web for all addresses) of this popular café in the city. With a 24 hour opening, the café is perfect for a hot chocolate in plush surroundings, with tempting patisserie on offer. Very popular with wedding parties popping in in the midst of taking photographs at the local sights of interest, as is the custom.

Petrozavodsk

Hotels

Sightseeing

Known in Finnish as “Petroskoi”, Petrozavodsk is the capital of the independent republic of Karelia, a region with a unique Finno-Russian culture. It’s location on Lake Onega, the second-largest lake in Europe, makes it the ideal stopping-off point for visits to Kizhi island, a unique openair museum, displaying the wonders of Northern Russian wooden architecture. The iconic wooden Transfiguration church and other period log buildings are protected by UNESCO as objects of cultural importance. Lake Ladoga nearby is home to the Valaam Monastery, and the Solovestskie Islands in the White Sea, home to a tragic history as a monastery and then labour camp, are also accessible from Petrozavodsk. The city’s name derives from Petrovsky Zavod (Peter’s Factory), as it was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great as a location for his iron foundry at the time of the Great Northern War with Sweden. During the Occupation War (1941-44), the city was occupied by Finnish troops for three years before being won back by the Red Army. The neo-classical architecture and sculpture-lined embankment mean that the town is more than provincial, with plentiful opportunities to take advantage of the Karelian forests for walking, hunting, and fishing. From Petrozavodsk you can reach the famous islands of Kizhi, Valaam and the Solovetskie islands.

Park Inn by Radisson Petrozavodsk Pl. Gagarina 1, tel. (+7) 814 271 70 70, www.parkinn.com/hotelpetrozavodsk. This hotel complex blends Park Inn‘s “live well, sleep well” motto with the luxury knowledge of the Radisson group. Situated right next to the railway station, the hotel is perfect for business clientele, with six meeting rooms, including a large conference hall that seats 200, whose glass windows offer natural daylight and splendid views down to the lake. Rooms are ultra modern, with Swedish design to match the northern location. Munich‘s celebrated Paulaner brewers are opening a two-floor restaurant downstairs, with four types of beer brewed on site and live entertainment from local jazz and folk groups. The hotel‘s 24 hour gym and free high-speed WiFi ensure the high quality of this international brand. Q180 rooms (Room prices start at 4,050Rbl). PTHAUFKW

While the excursions to the local islands are the main attraction, the city centre also has a lot to interest the tourist. The embankment is the first port of call, as you’ll naturally want to see Lake Onega, but some architectural details are also not to be missed. The town still has some examples of old wooden town buildings, some of which are still inhabited.

Getting There By train: You can reach Petrozavodsk by train from both

Petrozavodsk Hostel Krasnaya ul. 28, tel. (+7) 911

400 56 46, www.petrohostel.ru. Just off the main street in town, this low-cost hostel is perfect for a budget stay in the centre of the city with quick access to restaurants, shops and the lake. The hostel has a 24 hour reception and registration, WiFi, and help with organizing trips to Kizhi, Valaam and other places of interest. Their beds come from 390Rbl for a bed in a room for 6 to 2,000Rbl for a room for two. Everything is very tidy and friendly, and they speak English at reception. Q PAW

Restaurants and Cafes Café Kivach Pr. Lenina 28. This café is unsurprisingly

Moscow and St. Petersburg. There are four everyday trains from the Moscow Lenigradsky railway station (Metro Komsomolskaya.) The overnight trains are at 20:30, arriving 09:45, and 21:20, arriving at 12:18. Prices vary from 1,500 (third class) to 2,500Rbl (second class). From St. Petersburg here are three trains daily, with the best overnight option being 22:02 - 06:40 unless you want to arrive in the middle of the night or travel all day.

Deja-Vu Bistro Pr. Lenina 20, www.dejavu.petrofood. ru. Opposite the Severnaya Hotel, this place is perfect to stop off at if you get tired on the long walk down Prospect Lenina to the lake. Essentially French-inspired, there is also classic beef stroganoff and pasta dishes.

By plane: Petrozavodsk has an airport, although be

Fregat Restaurant-Club Pr. Karla Marxa 1, tel. (+7)

warned that there have been recent fatal accidents in the Russian North.

Petrozavodsk Tourist Information

Tourist Information Centre, Ul. Kuibysheva 5.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

popular with students, being located opposite the university building. Decent pizza and pasta dishes.

Embankment A stroll on the embankmentis a must. Lined with sculptures donated from Petrozavodsk‘s twinned towns, promenade along here to watch the boats and gaze at the misty hills on the other side of Lake Onega. On the eastern side, asculpture of Peter the Great eternally points towards the town, ordering it to be built. When we visited segways were available to rent. Lenin Square (Pl. Lenina) Once named the ‘Round

Square,’ which is only a paradox in the English language, this circular square was built in 1775 and is the centre of historical Petrozavodsk. The classical two-storey buildings, painted in the pale-yellow seen all over Russia, once housed the Gubernial Chancellery and other 18th century administrative buildings.

Museum of Fine Art of the Republic of Karelia Pr.

Karla Marxa 8, tel. (+7) 814 278 37 13, artmuseum. karelia.ru. This wonderful art museum on Kirova Square has an outstanding collection, from icons displaying the Northern russian tradition of painting, to their unique collection of twentieth-century local paintings, with some exquisite landscapes depicting the beauty of Karelian nature.Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 750Rbl for adults, 100Rbl for special exhibitions. Audioguides (100Rbl) are available in Russian, English, and Finnish.

Getting there By hydrofoil: If you haven‘t arranged your ticket from

a tour operator, you can buy a ticket from one of the kiosks at the boat terminal. Make sure to do this at least a day in advance. The journey to the island takes an hour and a half. The main office at the boat terminal is open 08.00 - 21.00 daily. www.kareliaflot.ru

By helicopter: In winter you can get a helicopter to the island. Contact Peski Airport, Borovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 814 274 74 66 or a Petrozavodsk travel agency. Tours

Tourist groups are formed upon arrival to the island if you want a guided tour, or you can visit the buildings by yourself. Admission for foreign citizens is 625Rbl, with another 100 for the excursion, which is professional and informative. Audioguides are available from the ticket office in English, Finnish, Russian for 150Rbl. www. kizhi.karelia.ru

814 279 64 98. This café is an ideal spot for breakfasting if you have an early boat trip to Kizhi, as from the veranda you can watch the terminal to make sure you don‘t miss your lime-green Kometa.A range of essentially French cuisine, they also have a range of local dishes, including deer with forest berries from 390Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The highlight of any visit to Karelia, Kizhi open-air museum is a magical mix of architectural and ethnographic wonder. Russia is famed for the expansiveness of its forests, which gave rise to the inventiveness of the Northern craftsmen. They used their expertise at carving wood to build not only sheds, barns and cowsheds, but houses, chapels and churches. Kizhi island is the place where the varied marvels of Northern Russian wooden architecture have come to rest from villages and hamlets in the Onega Lake area, which numbers over 1650 islands. The iconic Transfiguration Church is famous for being built ‘without a single nail‘, that is to say, the structure is entirely made from wood. The magnificent structure rises from the island like a lofty tree, its twenty-two onion domes seeming to crown it like pine cones. Culturally and architecturally unique, It was added to Unesco‘s World Heritage list in 1990.The art of Karelian wood-carving can also be seen upon visiting the peasant houses on the island. The 19th-century house of the peasant Oshenev has been called a house-complex, as its design perfectly matches the needs ofthe enormous web of a Russian peasant family, whose life was dictated by the seasons of the Russian North. During the harsh winter, the wife could feed the cattle in the cowshed by scattering grain through the floorboards of the workroom to the cowshed below, avoiding going into the freezing whiteness outside.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2014

KOSTROMA

Kostroma

Sightseeing

Kostroma is a city of contrasts: a mere six hours from Moscow it is filled with ancient monasteries, hip bars and unusual museums. Kostroma has something for everyone looking for the Russia of new and old. The three main figures of Kostroma that the visitor will constantly encounter are Ostrovsky, Susanin and Snegurochka, the ice maiden whose ubiquitous presence ensures that the little ones will be entertained. Kostroma supposedly takes its name from an ancient Slavic goddess associated with spring and fertility and the worship of this deity was a major festival in ancient Russia. Once upon a time it was the name for a linen doll, the history of which can be found at the Museum of Linen and Birchbark. Kostroma is most famous as being the city where Mikhail Romanov set out to Moscow from to claim his throne, ending the Time of Troubles and ushering in the Romanov Dynasty.

Ipatievsky Monastery Ul. Prosveshcheniya 1, tel.

Hotels Golden Ring Hotel Ul. Nizhnyaya Debrya 104, tel. (+7) 494 262 24 44, kostroma-goldenring.ru. Q 33

rooms (Room prices start at 2,700Rbl). Extra bed 700Rbl. PALKW Ipatievskaya Sloboda Beregovaya ul. 3a, tel. (+7) 494 237 12 24, www.i-sloboda.ru. Q19 rooms (Room prices start at 1,600Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast 200Rbl. PK Verba Rabochy pr. 7, tel. (+7) 494 255 28 91. Q13 rooms (Room prices start at 1,000Rbl). PT6NW Volga Yunosheskaya ul. 1, tel. (+7) 494 239 42 41, www.gkvolga.ru. Q 209 rooms (Room prices start at 1,800Rbl). Extra bed 780Rbl. PTA6ULGDW

Getting There By train: From St. Petersburg there is the daily train

95 at 17:40 from Moskovsky train station that gets in at 09:02 the next morning. Coming back take train 95 leaving at 18:22 and getting in at 11:15 the following morning. Tickets run 2,200 - 3,900Rbl each way.

By plain: There is a tiny airport called Sokerkino which has

flights leaving from St. Petersburg on Friday and Sunday at 18:50 and leaving from Kostroma on Fridays and Sundays at 15.30. There are also flights to St. Petersburg at 08:05 and to Kostroma at 12:00 on Wednesdays. For more information see kostroma-avia.ru/services/timetable/.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 494 231 75 91, www.ipatievsky-monastery.ru. Kostromaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s main attraction, this is where a young Mikhail Romanov was holed up before going to Moscow to ascend the throne of Tsar. Founded around 1330, over the years the monastery has played host to Catherine the Great and Nicholas II. Unlike most monasteries, the Ipatievsky is no nonsense being centred on two main exhibits: the Troitsky Cathedral and The Romanov Chambers. We have seen many churches in our day, but the Troitsky is impressive, extraordinarily well preserved in a mid-17th century Moscow style and doused in gold, its walls covered in frescoes and holy depictions and covered by a five-domed roof. The young Mikhail Romanov lived with his mother in the Chambers until 1613. Q Admission 80Rbl.

Museum of Wooden Architecture Ul. Prosvesh-

cheniya 1, tel. (+7) 494 237 38 72, w w w.kmtn. ru/~kossloboda. Just down the road from the Ipatievsky Monastery is another unique museum, officially called the Komstromskaya Sloboda. Designed to recreate a Kostroma area village from the 19th century, this open-air museum features 30 wooden buildings, brought in from around the Kostroma region. It features various structures including homes of the rich and poor, as well as religious buildings and astonishingly, none of the buildings used a nail in their construction. Q Admission 80Rbl.

The Museum of Linen and Birchbark Ul. Tereshkovoi

38, tel. (+7) 494 231 05 89, www.linenmuseum.ru. Most tour groups will make a stop here to see this museum dedicated to traditional Russian handicrafts. When we went we were treated to a wonderful excursion led by a teenager attired in traditional peasant dress. There are three halls, although the third one is a basement shop. The halls show the wonder that is Russian handicrafts made of birchbark and linens. The local favorite, Snegurochka, is on prominent display as are many creations featuring the likenesses of heroes and villains from Russian folktales. Q Open 09:30 18:00. Admission 70Rbl.

Moose Farm Kostroma Oblast, Sumarokovo village, tel.

(7) 494 235 94 33, www.loseferma.ru. One of Kostromaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s quirkiest exhibits is located about 20 km from the centre. An experimental farm founded in the Soviet times where the moose has been domesticated (as much as that is possible). Way back in Tsarist times there were moose domestication advocates, yet it was not until 1963 that this moose farm was founded. Today the moose wander the grounds of the farm and produce milk and antler velvet.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com