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St. Petersburg August - September 2014
Island culture More than 10 years in Russia!
inyourpocket.com N°96
The city’s greener islands for a summer stroll
Big gigs
International lineups at all music venues
Contents Where to eat E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
6
In the News
7
Arrival & Getting Around
8
City Basics
10
Language
11
Russian summer menu Restaurants in hotels
27 40 44
Nightlife
46
What to see 52 The Essentials 52 Hermitage 54 Old Soviet Tours 57 St.Petersburg’s historical outskirts 58 Where to stay 60
Culture & Events 12
Interview with concierge
62
Concerts, festivals and exhibitions Manifesta 10 Live music clubs
Shopping
64
12 16 18
Features Smolny District Krestovsky and Yelagin Islands Nevsky prospekt
20 22 50
Expat & Lifestyle 66 The Expat Experience
67
Business
68
Maps & Index
69
Moscow
73
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August - September 2014
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Foreword
In the News Back to school, kids!
St. Petersburg has undergone a beautiful transformation in the last two-three years: street life, cultural events, gastronomy and design are flourishing more than ever before. And the city is still changing: every day, new places open, world famous musicians perform and young entrepreneurs present their innovative ideas. Attracting more visitors annually than any other Russian city, Peter (as the locals call it), is not only a city people are constantly coming to but one people want to return to. If you’re reading our guide in St Petersburg right now, you really couldn’t have chosen a better time to come! This is an important year for our city as we are currently playing host to Manifesta 10, the European Biennial of Contemporary Art. St Petersburg’s cultural calendar is as busy and interesting as ever, so check out the special guide we’ve prepared to Manifesta’s 10 best events and must-see’s on pages 16-17. If you’ve had enough of modern art and just want to relax, you can go to Krestovsky or Yelagin Islands, two beautiful places not far from the city center where you can, as the Russians say, “Otdochnut telom i dushoj”, or literally, relax the body and soul. We’ve already scanned every inch of these islands so check out pages 22-26 and get planning. Brimming with local know-how, tips and tricks we hope this guide will help you unlock St Petersburg’s potential. We don’t just want you to see the city - we want you to understand it and feel it. You never know when the summer will end in St. Petersburg, so savour every warm moment and make sure you have some fun in the sun! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg In Your E S Pocket S E N TI A L founded and published C I TbyY G U I D E S OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.spb@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov, peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com Contributors Maria Stambler, Chris Jones, Ankur Shah, Lana Metafonov Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 96, 01.08.2014, 90,000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story Here you can see the shining sun drenched yachts of St. Petersburg’s very own marina, between Krestovsky and Yelagin islands. Photo by Ilya Timshin.
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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
GEORGIA
The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
A prosperous future begins with knowledge! The key to a successful future begins with a solid educational foundation so if you are looking to expand your opportunities and broaden your horizons at a leading world-class institution then the Education UK event is worth a visit. On October 7th, the British Council is holding its 16th Education UK event at the 5* Corinthia St. Petersburg hotel. More than British 50 educational institutions will be present in order for visitors to get acquainted with the multitude of available programs and ask the representatives questions. Apart from high schools, boarding schools and universities, visitors can also find specialized business or language courses represented at this fair.
New kid in town Sestroretsk for the people! In summer 2014 the Sestroretsky instrument factory is getting revamped into a new recreational and leisure zone called “Petrovsky Arsenal”. This new cultural space is set in a charming natural setting where anyone can enjoy fun outdoor activities such as volleyball, football, table tennis and even petanque in the sunshine. All kinds of bicycles - women’s, men’s, children’s, tandem - are available for rent and if you don’t know what’s worth cycling to, the 3-hour “Hello, Sestroretsk” bike tour will show you. In addition Petrovsky Arsenal offers comfy lounge beds, free wi-fi, a summer movie theater, a library, an eco-market, a gallery and various cafes. To the delight of the younger visitors and animal lovers, Petrovksy Arsenal created an improvised zoo. www.petrovskyarsenal.ru
We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world.
ESTONIA LATVIA
For every child in Russia, September 1st is the official first day of school - an event some may be very excited about while others would prefer to keep enjoying their holidays. Either way, expect to see lots and lots of dressed up kids, barely bigger than their backpacks, holding bouquets of flowers for their teachers. Girls are known to wear the biggest and frilliest bows known to man on this very special day. Even most senior students are well-groomed and many can be spotted with flowers. Proud parents lead the younger pupils to a new academic year and new knowledge because here, there is a huge focus on the significance and responsibility of learning.
Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.
A new panorama restaurant has opened its doors just a stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The name, “Bolshaya Kukhnya” (Big Kitchen), is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu (more than 150 dishes!) in an endless open space with large windows looking out at the terrace and Uprising Square. In addition to great food and a unique interior & exterior, Bolshaya Kukhnya is also the place to be to listen to live alternative music performances in the evening. The stage resembles a moving street theater, which adds to a very lively and down-to-earth atmosphere. A children’s room ensures that youngsters let their parents relax in peace. www.facebook.com/BigKitchenSPB
Car-free Nevsky? Like Fifth Avenue in New York or Oxford Street in London, Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg is at the heart of the city. This is where the city lives its busy life and witnesses all the hustle and bustle all day every day. But the “Red St. Petersburg” movement has a different vision for this avenue: it has proposed a plan where Nevsky will become a pedestrianonly zone from 10am till 11pm on Sundays in the summer, starting from the Fontanka and stretching up to the Moika. Special exceptions will be made: public transportation and people residing on this street won’t be affected. These vehicles will be given special lanes that will not affect the movement of pedestrians. Let’s see what happens!
Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 90 000 экз. No96. 01.08.2014
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August - September 2014
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Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.
Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave. The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi. Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.
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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Arriving & Getting Around The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly. Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for the ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure! Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 1520 minutes). Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station. If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl.
Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need. Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Public transport
Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination. Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night and during summer the bridges will be open - which depending on where your accommodation is might mean substantial delays.
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver. St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting. Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather-
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covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.
TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. nyt.ru August - September 2014
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City Basics
Language Be on guard!
useful phrases
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand Do you speak English? Help! I don't want
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.
pocket dictionary: Davai! Let’s go! Come on! Let’s do it! You’ll hear it here, you’ll hear it there. Davai, davai! Used in everything from aerobic classes to salutations, from ending a phone call to on the tennis court, this word seems to be all you need to know. Just nod your head and say davai if you want to fit in. Davai comes from the verb dat (to give), but is most commonly used as a suggestion form, a little like Shall we have another drink? Okay, davai! Want to grab some dinner? Davai!
Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00. 8
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numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
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alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж
A B V G D E YO ZH
З И Й К Л М Н О
Z I Y K L M N O
П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц
P R S T U F KH TS
Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь
CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound
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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? Good Khorosho Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? Kogda? What time is it? Katory chas? Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol
Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Хорошо Сегодня Завтра Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Который час? Конечно С праздником! Пароль
The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sport, entertainment and much else that is of interest to both residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital. Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert commentary on the country’s changing political and economic landscape and provides valuable insight into the issues that frequently grab the world’s attention. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants and business centers citywide, as well as at important international events. August - September 2014
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Culture & Events
Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.
theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre QC-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Ticket office: daily 11:00 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00. Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com.
concert halls and clubs Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su. Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Jazz Philharmonic Hall QС-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club QB-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Small Philharmonic Hall QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru. Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.
august events 01.08 Friday - 06.08 Wednesday Open Cinema Under the twilight skies on the banks of the Neva at Peter and Paul’sFortress and in the Rodina theatre will take place the tenth annual Open Cinema festival. This festival is popular for its relaxed attitude and openness, showing not only short films and animations but also music, design projects and art installations. On a warm summer’s evening, this is a perfect setting to relax with friends, food and drink and enjoy a variety of contemporary cinema. After the growing success of the festival now in its tenth year, it promises not to be the last.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 85 08, www. opencinemafest.ru.
02.08 Saturday Night of Light Got no plans for the night of August 2nd and the early hours of August 3rd? Good because it would be a shame to miss the return of the “Night of Light” festival after last year’s successful debut. This is a grandiose pyrotechnical show under the stars that takes place in Gatchinsky Park and turns the area into a magical country full of wonders and captivating mysteries. Starting at 23:00, theatrical performances and laser shows will blur the lines between reality and fiction and take you on a journey that will make the Gatchinsky Palace come alive and become the main “actor” until 3 o’clock in the morning. The themes this year will be varied but all of them will in one way or another be connected to the Gatchins, the Gatchinsky Palace and the Palace park. One show lasts approximately 15 minutes and at the end there will be a special multimedia surprise at the Beloye Lake that should not be missed.QGatchina, tel. (+7) 812 958 03 66, www.gatchinanights.ru Tickets 600Rbl.
You can buy tickets for many events at www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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05.08 Tuesday 20:00 Slayer After Kerrang! Magazine described 1986’s ‘Reign In Blood’ as the “heaviest album of all time”, the band have been defining thrash metal ever since, racking up four gold selling albums, four Grammy nominations with victories in 2007 and 2008. The band’s “breakneck speed and instrumental prowess” and “wildly chaotic” controversial lyrics have attracted a huge international following alongside the biggest metal bands like Metallica, Megadeth and Anthrax. Performing their first new song in five years, ‘Implode’, in April 2014, the band has recently promised new releases to continue a legacy already permanently etched in the history of heavy metal. QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.slayer.net. Tickets 1,600 - 4,000Rbl. 21.08 Thursday 20:00 The Glitch Mob Dubbed “lazer bass” by the New Yorker, this American group combines glitch electronica with heavy throbbing bass. Reaching fame as underground DJs, the bands members perform with midi controllers and laptops, sparking a fusion of danceable of bass music with a rock concert vibe. Only four years on from their debut album, this year’s ‘Love Death Immortality’ puts live performance in prime position, where shuddering bass and ringing synths will be sure to leave Cosmonavt throbbing, before taking the EDM festivals by storm this summer.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.theglitchmob.com. Tickets 800 - 2,500Rbl.
september events 05.09 Friday 20:00 Apollo Brown Hailing from hip hop hotspots Detroit and Chicago, the beatmaker Apollo Brown returns to St Petersburg with up and coming MCs Red Pill and Verbal Kent promoting their self-titled album, released in May 2013 on Mello Music Group. With heavy beats and slick rhymes of collaborations with Guilty Simpson and OC as well as many bandcamp released instrumentals in his individual heavy bouncing style, Apollo Brown’s latest project is about “blue collar individuals who make the world go round”. The album’s positive reception underlines Apollo’s reputation in the underground hip hop scene, while impressive MC performances promise a big future.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.apollobrown. bandcamp.com. Tickets 600 - 1,300Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
cinema If you are looking for a night at the movies without having to play some sophisticated form of charades to work out what’s going on - we have good news for you. There are now movie cinemas in St. Petersburg that show movies in English or their original language. If you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t go past the Angleterre which now shows all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies. Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru. Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru. Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru. Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru. 13.09 Saturday 19:00 Il Divo The world renowned operatic super group, Il Divo, bring their own unique renditions of Broadway favourites, pop interpretations and classics to St Petersburg’s New Arena. Formed in 2004 by the infamous Simon Cowell, the UK’s international music group comprises Spanish baritone Carlos Marín, French pop singer Sébastien Izambard, American tenor David Miller, and Swiss tenor Urs Bühler. With albums and singles hitting number one spots globally, the group have sold a staggering 26 million albums worldwide, while their latest, A Musical Affair, released in 2013, provides more of the same winning formula.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. ildivo.com. Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.
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Culture & Events Forecast for the autumn: philharmonia As the days get shorter the nights get longer, meaning theaters and concert halls celebrate the start of a whole new season; as the temperature on the street falls, on the stage it only gets hotter! As is by now tradition, the Large Hall of the St. Petersburg Philharmonic will kick off the season on September 25th, the birthday of the prominent Russian composer and pianist, Dmitri Shostakovich. On this day maestro Yuri Temirkanov and his musicians will perform the Tenth Symphony of the great composer. But the evening will not end here: Nikolai Lugansky will delight the audience with a rendition of Rachmaninov’s Third concerto. The following day has two exciting events in store. Ekaterina Mechetina will mark the start of the Academic Orchestra season with a performance of Mozart’s 20th concerto and Alexander Dmitriev, the artistic director of the orchestra, will take to the conductor’s stand for Chaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony and Weber’s “Euryanthe”. October 1st marks International Music Day so the Large Hall welcomes Denis Matsuev and Sergey Krilov, the Philharmonic Orchestra and Yuri Temirkanov who will perform Prokofiev’s Piano Concerto Number 3, Saint-Saëns’ Introduction and Rondo Capriccioso and “Pictures at an Exhibition”, Mussorgsky’s most famous piano composition. After a one day break, the program will return on October 3rd with one of Mahler’s most profound musical compositions “Das Lied der Erde” (“The Song of the Earth”). The program for the 5th includes a performance by Peter Laul; on the 11th the Lucerne Festival Orchestra performs Bach, Mendelson and Chaikovsky; on the 24th two great “Requiems” of Mozart and Schnittke can be heard; and the 30th will delight music lovers with pieces by the famous Russian composer Mikhail Glinka. The start of November will bring the best of Smetana and Dvořák to the public (on the 2nd) and on the 9th something truly unique can be witnessed: the Indian percussion band of Zakir Hussain. At the end of the month, a “knightly quest for the heart of the beautiful lady among the stars of world opera” will be held and all evening we will hear pieces from Rossini, Donizetti and Mozart. Apart from the above-mentioned, all kinds of organ concerts, jazz performances and musical/poetic evenings await us this autumn! Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events 18.09 Thursday 20:00 Sasha Almazova and Non Cadenza Sasha Almazova & Non Cadenza have become one of the biggest funk soul artists in Russia over the past nine years. They are a regular feature in the nation’s biggest jazz festivals, and have also toured extensively in Ukraine and Belarus. The group’s albums Beskonechnost (2011) and Neprilichno (2013) have succeeded in combining an essence of Russian music with a modern funk and melodic languid soul. The fusion of Almazova’s sensitively delivered thoughtful lyrics with the group’s tight sound has seen them share the stage with the likes of the UK’s Cinematic Orchestra.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.noncadenza.ru. Tickets 400 - 1,500Rbl. 26.09 Friday 20:00 The Fratellis After the success of the stratospheric single, ‘Chelsea Dagger’, and their Brit award winning first album ‘Costello Music’ in 2006, The Fratellis made an undeniably huge impact on the British, and indeed international, indie rock scene. Although followed by extensive touring and a second album, the band split up in 2009 to pursue individual projects. However, the bond of the fratelli (Italian for brothers) proved too strong, and the band’s third album ‘We Need Medicine’ is a return to form for the Scottish trio, with more energetic rock’n’roll anthems to leave Cosmonavt ringing.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.thefratellis.com. Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl. 27.09 Saturday 20:00 Instrumenti The two academically trained musicians from Riga who comprise Instrumenti create music not quite falling neatly into any of the genres indie pop, dance and experimental electronic. When playing live they use electronic equipment just as much as their acoustic instruments, creating a unique sound from a wealth of influences as diverse as Muse, Sigur Rós and Michael Jackson. Their 2013 album, ‘Procrastination’, includes so many eclectic instruments and electronic effects that its translation as a live performance should not be missed.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. Tekhnologichesky Institut, www.instrumenti. in. Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Exhibitions through 30.09 Tuesday Van Gogh Alive This interactive exhibition portrays the painting of Van Gogh in a way you have never seen it before. The painter’s works are projected onto a screen in complete darkness with an accompaniment of classical music. The exhibition also includes images from Van Gogh’s life revealing his environment and some of the things that inspired the great artist.QD-2, Konyshennaya pl. 1, MNevsky pr., www. vangoghalive.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 23:00. Admission 300 - 600Rbl.
The Ruin of Nicholas II’s family 05.06 Thursday - 24.08 Sunday This exhibition is dedicated to the murder of the tsar’s family near Ekaterinburg in 1918 and details the events leading up to the tragedy and its consequences. It also looks at the process of discovering the remains and identifying them which occurred in the 1990s. The exhibition is based on materials from the state archives and includes personal items from the tsar’s family supplied by the State Hermitage Museum. The materials detail the life of the tsar’s family from March 1917 (just after the February Revolution) to July 1918, following their journey under house arrest. It also includes audio recordings of people who participated in the murder.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00.
Cirque Éloize through 31.08 Sunday Vladislav Mamyshev-Monro: The Life of the Great Monro This exhibition is an overview of the creativity of one of Russia’s great contemporary artists. The exhibition delves into the revolutionary character of Mamyshev-Monro, whose works became symbolic of Russia’s period of social breakdown and economic collapse. The artist was born in 1969 and was expelled from school at an early age for drawing caricatures of Politburo members. While serving at Baikonur with the army he ran a children’s art club. However it is for his scandalous performances and his paintings that he achieved fame and for which he is remembered. His works are held in the Russian Museum and the Moscow Museum of Contemporary Art as well in numerous private collections. Mamyshev-Monro died in Bali just over a year ago.QC-2, Novy Musey (New Museum), 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
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18.10 Saturday - 25.10 Saturday Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are eagerly awaiting – notwithstanding Russia’s own mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show. This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cutting-edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has in dozens of cities around the world. October brings just eight St. Petersburg dates – book early! QA-1, SK Sibur Arena, Futbolnaya alley 8, MKrestovsky Ostrov, www.cds.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. August - September 2014
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Culture & Events Upsala Park This is a park to entertain the whole family. The concept behind the park is to give adults and children alike a place where they can put aside their mobile phones and any other electronic gadgetry and spend time with each other having fun. Apart from being located in a nice green environment where people can enjoy being outdoors, the park also runs a series of programmes throughout the summer including master classes with musicians and artists, and even cooking workshops.QF-1, Sverdlovskaya nab. 44, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 633 35 58, www.upsala-park.ru.
About igor cholaria The contemporary Russian artist Igor Cholaria was influenced by French impressionists and early 20th century avant-garde especially by such painters as Picasso, Braque and Modigliani. However, it is clear that he was also influenced by Russian icon paintings and the renaissance masters. His style is an organic synthesis of various styles from different periods and he consequently refers to his own works as a retrospective. In his work he adds new ideas to old and is prepared to take a step backwards to take two steps forward. Over the past 20 years the artist has worked extensively with English, Belgian and Dutch galleries and his works have been purchased by Madonna, John Galliano, Gerard Depardieu among others. The artist is in the prime of life and able to surprise not only the public, but even himself. QMoscow, Alla Bulyanskaya Gallery, Ul. Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 926 207 22 42, www.allabulgallery.com QSt. Petersburg, Pushkinskaya ul. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 921 941 82 82, www.tcholaria.com. 14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events 13.08 Wednesday - 13.10 Monday Family Portrait On 13th August in the Benois wing of the Russian Museum will open the new ‘Family Portrait’ exhibition. This collection of 200 paintings and sculptures from the 18th century to the beginning of the 20th aim to show the traditions, festivals and everyday concerns of Russian family life, and will include the iconic Realist work of famous Soviet artists like Nikolai Andronov, Fyodor Bogorodsky and Dmitry Zhilinsky. The contemporary St Petersburg creative group Koldovskie khudozhniki (Magical artists) has created an installation piece on the theme of the reputation of the artist in the context of family life, and another area of the exhibition shows an archive collection of family photos submitted by the people of St Petersburg. QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. 18.06 Wednesday - 18.08 Monday Paper Sculpture This new exhibition, held in the Marble Palace of the Russian Museum, presents over 100 sculptures made purely from paper. The 60 artists who will display their work include sculptors, painters, graphic artists and designers all originally from St Petersburg and Moscow. Whilst their artistic direction and techniques may vary, they are united by the fact that paper is their source of creativity. Unlike conventional sculptures made from metal, stone or clay, paper presents a two-dimensional challenge that is far from easy to overcome. Simplistic as it may sound the artists use the likes of plain paper or corrugated cardboard to create a final outcome that, frankly, one could not never have imagined to begin with. QD-2, Russian Museum, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. 03.09 Wednesday - 03.11 Monday Valentin Sidorov. My calm homeland This exhibition introduces the work of Valentin Sidorov, winner of the State Prize of the USSR in 1984. The exhibition will be on display from the 3rd of September until October 2014. Born in 1928 Sidorov is an acting member of the Russian Academy of Arts and Chairman of the Union of Artists of Russia. The exposition will display 90 of his most creative works from 1950 to 2000. He is considered the master of the “Spiritualised landscape”, with his art often pertaining to nature, it’s eternal cycle and how it is connected to the people of the Russian countryside. Epitomising the national character of the USSR Sidorov’s work unsurprisingly addresses the motherland, analysing the so-called Russian soul.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Nikolaevsky Palace, 4a pl. Truda, St. Petersburg Telephone: +7 (812) 312 55 00, 312 88 58 e-mail: office@folkshow.ru www.folkshow.ru
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August - September 2014
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Culture & Events
Manifesta 10 Manifesta is arguably the most prestigious and important art event in Europe and has been taking place on a biennial basis for the past 20 years now. It’s principle vision was to provide a platform for cultural exchange across Europe, especially in the aftermath of the Cold War. Twenty years after the first Manifesta in 1996, over one million people have participated in the events and enjoyed programs in which artists, curators and young professionals from forty countries have presented themselves and their work. Many of Europe’s finest cities have played host to this esteemed event, including Rotterdam, Luxembourg, Ljublana and Frankfurt, however we can say with pride that this year St. Petersburg has the honour of hosting the 10th Manifesta, running from June 28th until October 31st 2014. The main events will be held in the stunning location of the Palace Square, split with two thirds of the events held at the General staff building and one third held at the Winter Palace (the Hermitage). Despite falling under the general title ‘contemporary art’, the range of events available for public viewing are incredibly diverse and wide-ranging. Consequently, in this feature we have tried our best to identify some of the best picks from Manifesta, the events that are truly unmissable. But to really make the most of the this magnificent event, try and leave yourself a day and immerse yourself in as much as you can, as there will be countless interesting and intriguing artists, talks and exhibitions here merely at the touch of your fingertips! Must-see Manifesta’s One of the more surreal works on offer comes from Japanese artist Tatzu Nishi. His signature style, known as ‘reframing’, attempts to alter the viewer’s perception of an object they already consider themselves to know well. Typically working with urban monuments, he transforms them in hotel rooms in a way that induces fresh contemplation from the viewer. It will definitely make for a better experience if you go to this exhibition with no preconceptions, so you won’t find any spoilers or plot twists here! Just to rouse your curiosity, Nishi’s work in the Hermitage is entitled “So I only want to love yours”; to find out what on earth that means, you’ll have to check it out yourself. 16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events Named aptly after Chekhov’s short story, Fritsch’s sculpture ‘Lady and the Lapdog’ does great justice to this classic. This work is worth visiting for the setting alone, and you will find it in the Boudoir of the Winter Palace, a beautiful location indeed. Both lady and lapdog are composed entire of seashells, creating a captivating and mesmerising sight, so remember; look - don’t touch! This is a wonderful opportunity to see an integral aspect of the traditional aristocratic boudoir in the mid-19th century. Moreover Fritsch’s CV is about as long as Nevsky prospekt, so you know you’re in store for something special here. Susan Philipsz, ‘The River Cycle (Neva)’. The Scotlandborn sculptor currently lives in Germany, and has concentrated on the beauty of sound in revealing hidden layers of spaces. Her exhibition involves a 12 channel recording of grand piano music which will play when going up and down the main staircase of the New Hermitage, inspired by an image from James Joyce’s ‘Finnegans Wake”. Make any sense to you? At first it didn’t to us either, so you’ll have to see it to believe it! It’s worth knowing that this is by no means Philipsz first biennial, and we hope not her last; an absolute must-see, or more appropriately, must-hear! Francis Alÿs’s project, “Lada Kopek”, is a movie portrayal of the childhood dream of two Belgium brothers, and how it was eventually realised. The artist said that whilst growing up the Lada car was a symbol of what lay on the other side of the iron curtain, a symbol of “the alternative” in life. Along with his brother, Alÿs tried to make a road trip in this Soviet car however they barely managed to reach the border of their home country, Belgium. Thirty years later, as determined as in his youth, he finally lived out his dream and made the road trip. The chronicles of his travels have been documented on camera and you can watch his exciting adventure in the General Staff Building. Better still, you can even see the very car that helped the brothers find their dream, which will be in the Great Courtyard of the Winter Palace.
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Unlooped-Kino (the Russian word for cinema), is a program displaying the works of contemporary artists ranging from the 1970’s until the modern day. Their works will take the form of film and video, otherwise known in the art world as time-based media. There will be 4 distinct programs running; ‘Fast Forward’, ‘Body then and now’, ‘New Horizons’ and ‘Eastern Window’. The former three will present largely from a western perspective while the last will depict the perspective of Eastern European artists. Altogether seventy films will be shown, conveniently with either with Russian and/ or English subtitles. If that isn’t enough incentive the screenings will be free of charge, so you’ve got no excuse not to try at least one film! Of course it’s not all cinema and films, Otto Tsitko’s has designed a mural connecting two rooms together using a kind of tectonic pattern, thus enveloping the audience. We realise that may sound like a random bunch of words simply strung together, but Tsitko’s work really needs to be observed first hand; no verbal or written explanation can really do it justice. The design may at first seem simple, and perhaps you have interpreted it that way from our description, however it creates multiple meaningful variations, effects and experiences. You won’t need to spend long at Manifesta to realise that there is very little mainstream about it; in a paradoxical sense everything is the same in the sense that it is different! Thomas Hirschhorn’s ‘Cut’, is yet another offbeat project, which you can find in one of the courtyards of the General Staff Building. Viewers can examine 6 rooms of a St. Petersburg apartment spread across 2 floors. As you will find out, the word “cut” both underlines the theme of Hirschhorn’s work as well as bearing metaphorical significance. History that was once forgotten is again made available to see here, a tribute to the avant-garde tradition.
Top tips 1. Every day of the Biennial, free Open tours will take place in the General staff building at 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00. 2. Every last wednesday of the month, starting from July, Manifesta will run a lively night show, displaying independent artists and musicians, free with a valid Hermitage ticket. 3. Every weekend Manifesta 10 conducts free tours of the General staff building from 10:30 for families with children. 4. If you want a break from Palace square, head to Vitebsky station, another key, vibrant venue of Manifesta 10, the first train station in Russia to connect east and west. 5. Manifesta have an handy app, available to download for free in the app store. Here is the link, enjoy! www. Manifesta10.org/en/app/ Boris Mikhailov’s artwork is absolutely worth your time, if not purely for the artist’s personal history. During the soviet era Mikhailov worked in a Ukrainian factory, simultaneously pursing his own passion for photography, which he exhibited during the 1960’s. The KGB came to know that the artist had taken shots of his naked wife and claimed he was distributing pornography, leading to Mikhailov losing his job. Ultimately his photography strives to show social change as a result of Perestroika and his work received instant success in the West in the 1990’s. His current series, “Theatre of war, Second Act, Time Out” is not mere reportage; it is life as seen from the inside, fact not fiction. His heroes are real people from a range of social backgrounds, convictions and belief systems - truly a must see.
Сheck out the full program at www.manifesta10.org
If you haven’t haven’t already heard of Vladislav Mamyshev, after viewing his work you certainly won’t forget his name, however difficult it may be to pronounce! Is he controversial? Perhaps. Is he Fascinating? Undeniably so. This artist, anarchist, imitator or however you prefer to label him really made his mark in the 1980’s, when dressing as Marilyn Monroe earned him discharge from the army. MamyshevMonroe went on to imitate some of history’s biggest names including Queen Elizabeth, Adolf Hitler and even Russia’s own Vladimir Putin. His charisma and courage carried him through a prolific career so take the opportunity to view some of his work from the series “Doomed Love”.
The beauty of Manifesta is that artists new and old are all coming together in the name of contemporary art; each with his or her own unique agenda. With more ideas and interpretations than you could possibly imagine, Manifesta creates an atmosphere that transcends your typical art gallery or museum. Here the most eclectic mix people from each corner of the globe are gathering together to share their passion and creativity. With a spectacular location and a practically open-ended schedule, we won’t be forgiving you if you don’t squeeze at least a short visit in!
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August - September 2014
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Culture & Events Live music clubs Russia’s cultural capital is truly buzzing with live music. Aside from the world famous Mariisnky Theatre, the city’s contemporary music venues more than hold their own with other main European cities. Whether it’s pop, rock, hip hop or jazz you want to see, there is something for everyone, from the huge capacities and sound systems of Cosmonavt and Aurora to the quiet jazz bars dotted around the city. St. Petersburg is firmly on the map for international music tours, so be sure to catch some world famous acts in an unforgettable venue. A2 It’s no wonder that A2 claim to be the biggest concert venue in St. Petersburg, just take a quick look at their past line-ups. From living legends such a Chuck Berry, to contemporary bands such as Fall Out Boy, The Smashing Pumpkins and The National, if there is one thing A2 do not lack, it’s quality music! It’s hard to believe the venue has only been around for 2 years given how quickly it has made a name for itself. With no fewer than 10 bars you won’t find yourself struggling to buy a drink here. Despite having 2 concert halls, holding as many as 5,000 people and 1,500 people, don’t wait around for a ticket, they sell out fast!QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm.
Aurora concert hall This huge arena attracts the biggest DJs from Russia and abroad, offering space for 2000 people and views of the cruiser Aurora moored on the Neva from its riverside location near Ploshchad Lenina metro station. The circular hall opens up onto several levels providing space for 600 seated diners and a 150 strong VIP area. The venue also offers a smaller hall on the second floor with its own bar and wifi, a restaurant of American and European cuisine and a wide selection of beers. State of the art lighting and sound systems establish this as a big deal on the live music scene in the city. Be sure to check the place out online for upcoming gigs.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.
Culture & Events five minutes from Tekhnologichesky Institut metro. The hall stretches back from the stage with space for 1500 people and is flanked by bars on both sides, and a large mezzanine upper level offers VIP seats and another bar. The double bar on the main floor saves you from heavy queuing and offers reasonably priced drinks, and a couple of clouded stairwells serve as a smoking area. A quality sound and lighting system means the energy really picks up as the hall fills, underlining it as one of the city’s principal live music venues. The club is also available to hire for private functions.QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.
Jazz Philharmonic Hall As a reviewer one has to admit that we are often guilty of throwing around the words ‘Unique’ and ‘Original’. Despite this, it cannot be denied that the Jazz Philharmonic truly is one of a kind, distinct to St. Petersburg in both its genre of music and its atmosphere. The red lamplit tables create a surreal setting as the musicians on stage wish you away into the world of jazz. The intimate nature of the venue allows the audience to connect with performers in a way that larger venues simply could never achieve. Romantic and also full of life, if you feel the urge to dance don’t resist the temptation - there’s more than enough room! To top it off, there’s also delicious cocktails, coffee and deserts available to order at a moments notice.QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club
Zal Ozhidaniya The owners of Zal Ozhidaniya (the name is translated as “Waiting Room”) have really taken the idea of a concert venue and made it their own. Priding themselves on their all-embracing attitude towards music, fans of rock, pop, rap and indie will all find themselves at home here. We are not sure which is more diverse; the international artists that perform here night after night, or the various music lovers that follow them in. In any case, this club is all about variety. The club is ideally located, situated centrally between stations Baltiskaya and Frunzenskaya and there’s also a convenient car park for the drivers amongst you. With a chill-out room, VIP area and plenty of comfy sofas, don’t be afraid to enjoy a moment of your feet - trust us, the way the Russians party, you’ll need one!QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.
The low lit assorted tables and chairs in front of a low stage watched over by the jazz legends on the wall immediately underline JFC as the real deal. The stage has a full kit, baby grand and decent sound and lighting. The bar menu, although innovatively displayed over a CD case, suffers from this compact format, where only a few cocktails accompany few beers and spirits. The ambience is that of a jazz bar that doesn’t try too hard, but effortlessly succeeds in shrouding you in a cool jazz vibe. At full stretch, the bar can accommodate up to a hundred audience members varying from local jazz fanatics to opportunist tourists. Tickets on the door will offer standing room, or a more expensive table, for a gig that could range from jazz standards to experimental funk from one night to the next.QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www. jfc-club.spb.ru. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club Under the bare brick arches of an intimate bar is a jumble of wooden tables and chairs directed towards a small stage. The blues fans of St. Petersburg gather every night to listen to energetic performers who may even roam through the crowd and onto tables. There is a quiet buzz to this innocuous bar, frequented by true blues lovers and tourists alike, where a big blue musical heart beats through the cosy basement. A reasonably priced drinks menu is available, including a strong array of spirits and cocktails to sip on to complete the experience. With its bare vintage brick and wooden aesthetic and posters nodding to the blues legends, the atmosphere is laid back but flared into life by the camaraderie of enthusiastic musicians and audience alike.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.
Club Cosmonavt Cosmonavt’s cavernous hall and great stage make it a popular destination for Russian and international big names, like Bristol’s Bonobo and drum and bass DJ Benny Page. The club is situated on Moskovsky prospekt, only 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
jazz clubs
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restaurants
The idea of combining some of the city’s great cuisine and the popularity of live jazz has thankfully been nailed here in St Petersburg. At 48 chairs and Port Artur you can eat your fill of delectable dishes from the city’s finest chefs and then sit back and digest to the jazz accompaniment of St Petersburg’s top musicians. 48 chairs An elegant but cosy venue whose walls are crammed with black and white photos, this is a great place to have a sumptuous meal and catch a bit of quality live jazz. Head chef Vasily Soldatov’s improvisation in the kitchen matches that of the city’s top jazz musicians who play nightly at 48 Chairs, taking inspiration from so many of the world’s cuisines and combining them in his own key signature. The drinks menu contains an impressive selection of wines to accompany the unique cooking and a long list of liqueurs, aperitifs and digestifs will complete the jazz bar experience. The vibrant cooking makes for an unforgettable meal and you’ll be tempted to work your way through the drinks list whilst reclining to some smooth blues to become that last lingering guest for whom the restaurant promises to stay open.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 77 75, www.48chairs.com. Port Artur Port Artur offers you the wonderful opportunity to enjoy a lovely meal and listen to some smooth jazz music at the same time (madness…we know!) No compromises are made on the quality of either. The restaurant itself is perfectly proportioned, orientated around a fashionable bar that makes a very classy centrepiece. With such a wide variety of dishes to select, the biggest issue we faced was narrowing down our choices! Nonetheless, the staff’s refined knowledge proved it’s value and the end result was simply delightful. To guarantee yourself live music try and turn up at the weekend, though it has to be said that even without music, the atmosphere, bar and food will do anything but disappoint.QE-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. 12/17, MZnenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 953 32 50, www.portartur-spb.ru. August - September 2014
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Features smolny district Smolny is the district of the royalty and nobility. As such the tour will take you past some of the most elegant buildings and nicest parks in St. Petersburg. The district is also intimately connected with some of the most shocking and tragic events in Russia’s history.
Start out at Nevsky pr. metro station and head north towards the traditional Orthodox cathedral Church of the Saviour of the Spilt Blood along Griboedov Canal. The canal was originally constructed during the reign of Catherine the Great in 1764-1790. In 1923 the canal was renamed Griboedov Canal in honour of the Russian playwright and diplomat Alexander Griboedov (1795 – 1829). Griboedov is largely famous for his play Woe from Wit (Gore ot uma). He was a talented linguist and diplomat and was killed along with his entire legation by an angry mob in Persia while trying to protect three Armenians. Continue north from the Church of the Saviour of the Spilt Blood and pass by Mikhailovsky Garden. Over the Moika river you will come to Marsovo Pole (Field of Mars). This field was originally a recreational area. At the end of the 18th century the meadow was taken over as an army drilling ground. In the early 19th century it became known as the Field of Mars. Following the 1917 Revolution, several revolutionaries were interred here and it became a memorial. Located in the centre of the field is the eternal flame. It was the first in Russia, being introduced in 1967. To the northern side of the field, next to the Neva River is Suvorov Square and a statue to Field Marshal Alexander Suvorov (1727-1800). The general is often thought of as Russia’s greatest military leader. Of the 93 battles he commanded, he never lost. If you follow the road east either along the Neva River or along the Moika River embankment you come to the Summer Garden. The park was originally designed by Peter the Great. A significant attraction of the garden was the fountains which were the first in Russia. Leaving the Summer Garden to return to the banks of the Neva River and continue north-east crossing from Dvortsovaya Nab. (Palace Embankment) over Prachechny Most (Laundry bridge) onto Nab. Kutuzova named after the Russian field marshal who commanded Imperial forces during Napoleon’s invasion of Russia. It was Mikhail Kutuzov who oversaw the Battle of Borodino in 1812 and the retreat from Moscow which lead to the overall defeat of the Grande Armée. This location also offers nice views of the Neva River with the background of the Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress is St. Petersburg’s first building and was founded in 1703. 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Features Continuing along the embankment turn right at the first opportunity onto Gagarinskaya ulitsa, named after Yury Gagarin (1934-1968) the first man in space. Gagarin was a pilot before being selected for the Soviet space programme. His first and only space flight was upon the Vostok 1 on 12 April 1961. He died in a plane crash in 1968. If you feel inclined to honour the career of the world’s first cosmonaut, drop in for a fine Belgium beer at Craft Pub – with over 40 varieties you can spend an afternoon enjoying the search for the right beer to celebrate Yury Gagarin! After honouring Gagarin, continue to the south, and turn right at the first intersection onto ulitsa Tchaikovskogo. The spelling might look unusual but this street is named in after the great composer, Petr Illich Tchaikovsky (1840-1893). Tchaikovsky is perhaps best known for his 1812 Overture and Swan Lake. Continue west until you reach Solyanoy pereulok (Salt Lane), named after the salt stores for tanneries that used to be located in the area. Turn left, go through two intersections you and will see the Museum to the Defence of Leningrad (building 9). This museum is absorbing. It depicts the survival and defence of the city during the blockade. After the museum continue south and turn left at ulitsa Pestelya. This area is receiving a new lease of life and is the home for a range of new restaurants and bars with a lively nightlife. After three short blocks, crossing over Liteiny Prospekt you will enter Transfigurational Square with the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. This is one of the few Russian churches that has never been closed. The cathedral was built under Empress Elizaveta Petrovna (1709-1762) in 1743-1754. It was reconstructed in 1825-1829 in the Empire style. If you leave Transfigurational square by Manezhny pereulok (Manege Lane) you will find yourself walking down one of the few untouched, unblemished old streets of St. Petersburg. Both sides of the lane are enclosed by lovely 19th century apartment buildings. Continuing to the end of the street you reach ulitsa Vosstaniya (Uprising Street) named in honour of the 1917 February Revolution. This street is now starting to come alive with a range of quality restaurants and bars. Drop in on Pivnaya Karta (Beer Card) at ul. Vosstaniya 55 – the flashy New York interior is enough to make you want to celebrate Russia’s culinary revolution. Head south and duck along ulitsa Ryleeva and then head south down ulitsa Radichsheva, you will find yourself in the midst of St. Petersburg’s military past. This area is intimately connected with Imperial Russia’s former military glory, being used as military barracks. Ulitsa Ryleeva is now
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named in honour of a Decembrist who was involved in the failed December 1825 coup against Nicholas I. Since 1935 ulitsa Radishcheva has been named after the 18th century writer and philosopher Alexander Radishchev whose work Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow criticised serfdom. His worked earned him exile to Siberia under Catherine the Great who called him a “rebel worse than Pugachev”. On reaching Vilensky pereulok turn left. This lane housed a large number of soldiers with parade grounds. The lane was named in 1922 in honour of Lithuania’s capital. Turn left on reaching Paradnaya ulitsa (Parade street). This street lead directly to the Preobrazhensky Regimental barracks and was used for military drills and parades. The regiment was relocated here from Moscow in 1723. The unit was formed from the tsar’s play army with which he used to play war games as a boy and was named after the village where they played. Continue heading north until you reach a large and attractive park, the Tauride Garden (Tavrichesky Sad). It was laid out in 783-1789 on the estate of Grigory Potemkin (17391791) behind the Tauride Palace. Potemkin was a long standing minister of war and lover of Catherine the Great. He was granted the title Prince of Tauride for the conquest of Crimea in 1783. On the north-eastern side of the gardens is the Tauride Palace – the grandest palace owned by a nobleman in the 18th century that was built in 1783-1789. Heading south from the Tauride Palace go down Tavricheskaya ulitsa and turn left onto Tverskaya ulitsa. This street is home to many mansions built at the beginning of the 20th century. The novelty of this street is the Old Believers Church. In the 17th century deviations were discovered in the Russian Orthodox Church as a result of bad translations and copying. Patriarch Nikon attempted to correct these deviations, leading to a schism within the Orthodox Church. Those who refused to accept the new creed were sent into exile. Following a manifesto of religious tolerance (1905) this church was built in 1906-1907. The church is unique in its use of the Novgorod architecture mixed with art nouveau elements. A few houses down from the church is the Shalyapin restaurant at building 12 – named after the famous Russian opera singer Fedor Shalyapin (1873-1938) who established the naturalistic school of opera. Continuing east you will reach a main road and a large park. You are now at the centre of St. Petersburg’s city government and on Dictatorship of the Proletariat Prospekt. Head north and sense the power of the proletariat! On your right you will come to one of St. Petersburg’s most impressive cathedrals, Smolny Cathedral. The cathedral was originally built as part of a convent complex for the illegitimate Elizaveta Petrovna, however, instead of becoming a nun, she became empress. The church was built in 1748-1764. The building today is used for concerts and weddings. To the left of Smolny Cathedral is the Smolny institute. This building was constructed in 1806-1808 for educating aristocratic maidens. In 1917 the building was chosen as the Bolshevik headquarters during the October/November Revolution. In 1934, Sergey Kirov (1886-1934) was assassinated here. His death acted as the pretext for Stalin’s Great Purge. The Smolny Institute now houses a museum to Lenin. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Daily degustations, food&drinks
40 on tap, over 400 bottled If you're hoppy and you know it − drink at Craft! Gagarinskaya ulitsa 6, + 7 812 983 55 59, www.facebook.com/CRAFTPUB August - September 2014
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Feature
Features Krestovksy Island:
St. Petersburg’s best breaks Krestovsky and Yelagin islands provide a wonderful alternative to the ever-buzzing city centre - no wonder you find Russians gravitating towards them on weekends. There’s enough activities to occupy even the most ambitious amongst you, so we’ve picked out the best bits of both islands. With places to eat, museums to ponder and parks to admire, go at your own pace, relax and enjoy. 22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island, which appears to be cross-shaped. Others, however, suggest that on Swedish maps the Island is referred to, in Finish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst the Russians may contest the name of the Island, one thing they definitely do not contest is that there is plenty of fun to be had here! It therefore should come as no surprise that over the weekend the Petersburgers flock in their masses to Krestovsky Island. The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the station, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk down the steps towards ulitsa Ryukhina, and if in doubt, follow the crowd! Once you approach the road you will find yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itinerary you’re looking for. By the end of this feature we hope that any individual can plan out a lovely day at Krestovky Island, just as the locals do! One great option available to you is walking along Yuzhnaya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific destination awaiting you here, this street really captures the essence of Krestovsky Island. To find it exit the metro and turn turn left on ulitsa Ryukhina and continue walking up until Krestovsky prospekt. Turn right on Krestovsky prospekt and then keep straight until you reach a roundabout. At the roundabout continue straight and you will find yourself on Yuzhnaya doroga. Without having any end goal in mind, walk at leisure down this street and you will pass numerous bars, cafes and restaurants. Instead of picking and settling on any one place, why not consider trying out a few different ones, after all, variety is the spice of life! If you need a little inspiration, check out two of our favourite bar/clubs Vozdukh and Zimaleto. Better yet however, keep your eyes pealed for shashlik tents. These are small tents dotted all around the Island, where you can buy beer and other beverages, or classic snacks like corn on the cob. The beauty of this kind of dining, and what makes it so popular with Russians, lies in its simplicity. It’s just going back to basics; good food and good company - all out in the fresh air. Having left the metro station, another great choice is Divo Island, the funfair ground that truly put Krestovsky island on the map. It’s impossible to miss, located no more than 20
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metres from the metro exit, just across the road. Remember that feeling as a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same kind of nostalgia awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the funfair is free and customers need only pay per ride, however it is possible to buy a pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy as many rides as you’d like at a fraction of the cost. The rides really are very diverse; there are ‘children’s rides’, ‘family rides’ and ‘extreme rides’. For our braver readers, we dare you to try out Booster or Catapult - at your own risk of course! The park is open from 12:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and 11:00 until 24:00 on weekends, but bear in mind that the more extreme rides open slightly later. A handy local tip is that the prices drop after 21.00; this may prove to be cheaper but perhaps consider the consequences of riding the roller coasters straight after dinner!
Divo Island really is a child’s dream come true, making Krestovsky Island a place for the whole family. Nonetheless, Russian couples and groups of friends alike all come out here to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy themselves in a way you might think only children can. When you’re in the park you’ll notice people skating around on roller blades or riding around on bicycles - this is a mustdo! As well as being a fun mode of transport it is also a convenient way to get around, and with so many beautiful features in the park to take in, strap on your wheels and head in any and every direction. There are so many little stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re guaranteed to come across a bench where you can eventually sit down and enjoy them along with the view! The football fans amongst you may relish the opportunity of viewing Zenit St. Petersburg’s stadium, or what’s left of it! Formerly known as Kirov stadium, Zenit’s home is currently undergoing a complete renovation. Interestingly, to settle on a design for the stadium, a competition was set up, and following a unanimous vote, Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa won. His project has generated a lot of publicity, largely due to its intriguing name, “Spaceship”. The refurbished, state of the art stadium will have a capacity of no fewer than 62,000 seats. The stadium is situated on the West of the Island and, hopefully, it should prove easy to find! After exiting the metro station cross the road and head left. Take the first right, Batareinaya doroga, and continue down this road until you approach a roundabout. Head straight on at the roundabout, again along Batareinaya doroga, and in no time you’ll be able to see the stadium ahead of you. August - September 2014
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Features This feature has hopefully left you with plenty of food for thought, but in case you’d like one final option, exit the metro and turn right along ulitsa Ryukhina. Keep walking until you reach Yelagin Most, at which point you can turn left along naberezhnaya Martynova. Here you can take a romantic walk alongside the river, making for a splendid view. Not only are there more shashliks here, but also a number of open air bars and restaurants, making a lovely alternative to the hot, stuffy city centre. Walking straight ahead as you approach the end of naberezhnaya Martynova there is a Yaught club, displaying some of the finest yaughts St. Petersburg has to offer. Of course it is also possible to use Yelagin most to cross over onto Yelagin Island; to find out more feel free to take a read of our other feature! Ultimately, Krestovsky Island gives you the chance to jump off the tourist trail. The Island is a great escape from the fast pace of life in the city centre and in a way allows you to relive your youth too, and let’s be honest, no one’s getting any younger! As always, save the best until last, so here’s one final piece of advice; Krestovsky Island is a truly wonderful place to simply get lost on, so use the directions merely as a guide and nothing more. Whether walking along the river, along the coast, or through the funfair, don’t worry about where you’re going, the sense fun and adventure will find you, we guarantee it!
Yelagin Island An island which is entirely parkland is the perfect place for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark of Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island lies between the Bolshaya and Srednaya Nevka; its western tip offers a view point of the Gulf of Finland and at its eastern shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards mainland St. Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station facing the park opposite, you should turn right and follow the road to the bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, following the winding pathways between the trees eventually reveals a well-kept lawn stretching towards the elegant bright white Yelagin palace peeping out from the trees. A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths, over bridges and under the dappled light of the trees. The 237 acres of gardens have faithfully preserved centuries old trees and special flora, and because of this some areas are indeed off limits. There are convenient cafes hiding amongst the trees, play areas for children and even the chance to take a boat or pedalo out on the island’s ponds. The island, the smallest of the Kirov islands in the Neva’s 24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Features delta, was inhabited by fishermen before the city was even founded. It was presented to Peter the Great by Peter Shafirov in 1709, his vice chancellor, but was taken back after Shafirov faced a death sentence in 1723 for embezzlement. Previously named after a bear allegedly spotted by soldiers on the island in the 18th century, the park’s current name derives from a famously hospitable former owner of the island, Ivan Yelagin (1725-1794), who made all gardens open to the public.
The radiant Yelagin Palace stands proudly at the head of a long sweeping lawn, where two majestic white lion statues, inspired by the Medici lions in Florence, guard a perfectly symmetrical staircase to the entrance. The palace was completed in 1822 as a summer residence for Tsar Alexander I’s mother, Maria Fyodorovna. It was designed by the Italian architect Carlo Rossi, who also designed the Mikhailovsky Palace of the Russian Museum, masterfully creating the pearly white curves, columns and dome nestled among the greenery of the park. It is built on the site of a mansion designed by the architect Giacomo Quarenghi, built from 1785-1790 during the rule of Catherine the Great, as a gift to the island’s namesake, Ivan Yelagin, a close friend and ally during her time as Grand Duchess. Retiring to his own island and Palladian Villa, Yelagin immersed himself in his study of alchemy. In later years, after complaining that she was no longer able to make day trips to other palaces, Maria Fyodorovna was given the current palace by her son, Tsar Alexander I, as a summer retreat. The architect Carlo Rossi fastidiously redesigned every detail of the old villa, whose richly detailed neoclassical interiors were decorated by Giovanni Battista Scotti, Vasily
Demuth-Malinovsky, and Stepan Pimenov. Floral patterns, scenes from mythology and gilded carvings twirl across the elaborate ceilings and walls, dragging your eyes across every inch of intricate detail. Each room is decorated individually, with impressive exquisite marble, patterned flooring and painted ceilings which echo the Hermitage’s grand neoclassical style, albeit on a lighter and more manageable scale. The palace is sometimes known as the ‘palace of doors’, as no two of the inlaid doors are the same. The first floor of the palace is used as an exhibition space for the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art and Interiors from the 18th-20th Centuries, established in 1987. After Fyodorovna’s death in 1828 the palace was often unused, apart from Tsar Nicholas II leasing it to his prime ministers until the 1917 revolution. During the siege of Leningrad in World War II, the palace was badly damaged by shelling, but was rebuilt in the 1950s and now shows off its glamorous interior to the public.
The palace’s outbuildings, including the Guardhouse pavilion and Flag Pavilion, are scattered amongst the trees surrounding the palace. Dedicated paths will lead you around the assorted bright white structures, decorated by beds of vivid flowers. In full bloom, the colourful flora, clean white walls and pockets of dazzling water will make for some unmissable photo opportunities. In the palace’s Orangery today resides the Glass museum. The collection displays the work of Leningrad Glass Art Factory, operating from 1940 until 1997, founded by the influential Soviet glass sculptor Vera Mukhina. The factory produced innovative and colourful glassworks both for domestic use and also as experimental art. Around 8000 glass works are displayed in three halls in a simple and thoughtfully lit display that twinkles from every angle. A whole corst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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ridor is devoted to the bold and sophisticated sculptures of Mukhina herself, with background information about her life and work. TV screens run short documentaries about the glass making process, and a couple of installations and information placards explain the evolution of the fine art of glass making over the years. It is well worth circling the island for the views across the waters of the Neva. Apart from an unfortunately noisy main road on the bank of the opposite shore on the north side of the island, you can look out across the placid waters towards other parts of the city, or indeed out to sea. Proceeding to the very western tip of the island takes you to a viewpoint at the Gulf of Finland. Here you will again find two lions flanking a platform from which to enjoy the view of the glittering Neva joining the open sea. Although marred slightly by the industrial edges of the city and the construction of Krestovsky Island’s new stadium, the quaintly dilapidated bobbing fishing boats and a haze of distant land on a bright day is well worth crossing the island for.
On the site of a monument to architects at the eastern edge of the park, you can look straight down the Bolshaya Nevka curving inland towards the rest of the city. The southern shores reveal St. Petersburg’s own marina where a modest collection of polished yachts twinkle in the sunshine before the green backdrop of Krestovsky’s equally lush parkland. You will feel pleasantly removed from the bustle of central Petersburg while enjoying the quiet natural side of the city. To escape from the pollution and hubbub of activity in central St. Petersburg and find the city’s greener side, a visit to Yelagin is a must. Though more lavish grandeur can be found in the Hermitage, the clear elegance of Yelagin palace and its effortless harmony with its green surroundings offers a cultural element to a relaxing day trip to a charming park.
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Features restaurants on Krestovksy Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. With spacious interiors and set in the peaceful environment of Krestovsky Island - Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW
Marseillaise Why take a trip to the south of France when you can just pop into Marseillaise for some of the finest French food St. Petersburg has to offer. Whilst the chef may not be French himself he clearly shares a strong affinity with the European nation, and his own take on classics such as Onion Soup were nothing short of exquisite. Sip the wine and let yourself drift deep into the French countryside, leaving absolutely nothing to be desired. The interior design emanates the same message that is reflected in the food; simplicity and elegance is everything. With an average meal between 1,500 to 2,000Rbl and a lovely location on the river bank, within ten minutes of Krestovsky Ostrov metro, this restaurant will rank highly on anyone’s list. QB-1, Nab. Martynova 16, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 498 77 77, www.marseillaise.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW Na Rechke With lovely views and outdoor dining on the Krestovka River bank Na Rechke creates a relaxed atmosphere. Soft background music, and friendly staff make for a lovely dining experience. The interior design with sloping, billowing ceilings, similar to awnings, gives the entire establishment the feel of al fresco dining and the white décor enhances the sensation of expansiveness. Tables are large and placed a good distance from each other. The menu is 26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat largely European with a tendency towards the Mediterranean and Italian. Being close to the central city, Na Rechke is simultaneously convenient and remote. This makes it an ideal location for a business meeting or a romantic dinner at the end of the day.QB-1, Ul. Olgina 8, MChernaya rechka, tel. (+7) 812 230 03 47, www.narechke.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian Yelagin A glamorous clientele is to be found at this chic, wooden panelled restaurant on the water, with a view across the St. Petersburg Riviera. Become part of a stylish crowd reclining on sofas downstairs or in the fresh air out on deck, and you might think you’re floating in the harbour of St. Tropez. The menu boasts an Italian, Russian and Japanese selection of meticulously cooked dishes presented by suave waiting staff, and an on board bar offers a large collection of mostly Italian wines as well as various cocktails. For not too extortionate fine dining in a beautiful setting, this will be one of your best bets in St. Petersburg.QB-1, Nab. Martynova, opposite the house №40, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 947 15 44, www.elaginrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW
Zimaleto The high ceiling and wide open space populated with stylish comfortable sofas will immediately put you at ease in this bar. On Yuzhnaya doroga, along the south side of Krestovsky Island, the bar has outside seating on decking on all sides, and looks out onto the collection of impressive yachts on the Malaya Nevka. Inside, a high wall of shelving behind the bar displays bottles of surely any drink that might take your fancy, and indeed the carefully concocted cocktails will help you to feel like the whole place is a luxurious beach hut. A drum kit on a modest stage promises regular live music, big screens can be viewed in comfort from all angles, and a staircase promises a VIP area.QB1, Yuzhnaya doroga 8, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 942 74 73, www.zimaleto.su. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request an English version of the menu.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW Feodor Dostoevsky F.M. Dostoevsky is an elegant restaurant focusing on home style Russian cuisine. The atmosphere is chic and comfortable at the same time. Candles on the tables, soft lighting and crisp tablecloths give this place a warm and friendly glow. F.M. Dostoevsky serves Russian classics, so don’t miss their famous Beef Stroganoff and try one of the beautifully presented deserts. There is live music on Fridays and Saturdays.QE-3, Golden Garden Hotel, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 44, www.goldengarden.ru. Open 12:30 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAUEGSW Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www. idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
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Where to eat
Koleso Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Mari Vanna With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old and cosy Russian flat. The service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QC-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAVGSW NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW
SYMBOL key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat Olivie Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it’s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW Prospekt Prospekt is located just around the corner from St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Its almost invisible to the passerby but that doesn’t mean it should be missed! There’s an excellent selection of traditional Russian dishes with a few modern additions. Add to that a wonderful historical decor and a menu written in old Russian to go along with said decor. The fish was some of the best in the city, extremely fresh and full of flavor straight from the grill. Traditional Russian specials like borsch and potato pancakes (draniki) are as good as any Russian babushka can whip up. If you want a taste of some great Russian food with a quaint historical atmosphere, you can’t go wrong in this little restoranchik as the Russians say.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 952 236 01 24, www. prospekt-restaurant.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Open 18:00 00:30. Closed Fri, Sat. €€. PTASW Rasputin With its many black and white photographs and old furniture against dated wallpaper, you might be forgiven for thinking this basement café resembles a babushka’s living room if it wasn’t for the - actually bubbling - collection of test tubes on one window ledge, presumably pointing to Grigory Rasputin’s somewhat shady activities as a healer in the late 19th century. The café’s strong points are certainly its location, only round the corner from the Hermitage on the bank of the Moika canal, and the negligible impact on your wallet, but its traditional Russian menu is really not much more than a quick bite to eat.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www. rasputin-cafe.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW
Asian and Indian Cardamon This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW Chopsticks Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior has been decorated in the traditional Chinese style with the walls decorated with traditional paintings. Quiet background music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. The central location makes this one of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg. Be prepared to take your time over the meal and expect to use chopsticks!QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/ chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTSW Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serving food from all compass points off India. The menu is extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we ordered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant Curry House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72 Meat Line Meat Line is the first and only Teppanyaki restaurant in St. Petersburg. It’s so different from anything else on offer in town, it’s worth the challenge to find deep within the shopping complex. Not speaking English or Russian, the friendly chefs communicate with diners using their mobiles, serving up flavorsome authentic dishes with impressive culinary style to diners rather than thrown at you, unlike other typical Teppanyaki restaurants around the world. With tables that can sit up to eight people, this is a great place to fuel up before heading out for a night on the town.QE-4, Ligov Shopping Center, Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 602 04 96, www.meatline2014.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
Shalyapin Located in the middle of the historic Smolny district, a pleasant stroll from the Tauride Garden, Shalyapin is your classic 19th century restaurant. Decorated in crèmes and brown with soft lighting and lampshades depicting 19th century street scenes this restaurant is a pleasant retreat from the bustle of modern life. The restaurant serves genuine Russian food, which is both tasty and filling. The staff are attentive and provide excellent advice on the best combinations of food and drink. The final result was well worth the wait. This is a lovely place to visit if you want to spend an afternoon or evening in quiet conversation.QF-2, Tverskaya ul. 12/15, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 32 10, www. shalyapinspb.ru. €€€. PTAESW
King Pong The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‘European’ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGSW
Mops The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is truly exquisite. Mops cultivates the appearance of elegant chaos. It has a terrace and three rooms to meet varying tastes, offering you a cosy spot to smoke a hookah or to sing your heart away in the karaoke hall. The unusual interior design emphasises contrasts and claims to be aimed at those with an ‘artistic personality’. The restaurant’s Thai chef who produces authentic, unadulterated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 961 92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€. PASW
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Where to eat
Where to eat Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW Tandoori Nights There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW
Beer Restaurants Bierstube Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Birreria Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passage shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view onto Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. This is a good place to stop of with friends to watch sport on a Friday evening, drink a few beers (with brands from all over Europe, this should keep you busy all evening) and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu offers your classic Italian favourites and is worth every rouble. Service is good an unobtrusive and the beer is enough to put anyone into a good mood, so you are bound to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www. birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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Bruxelles If you like delicious, good European food and drink, Bruxelles should be on the top of your list. The restaurant does not provide you with the fine dinning experience but the food is delicious, reasonably priced and has fast, efficient service. The music is loud, and although some might find this off-putting, there is plenty of space for patrons and it is still comfortable to talk in small groups. The bar has a solid wine list and offers a wide variety of beers including trappist and craft beers - just the thing to wash down a fantastic meal!QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 944 03 36, www.italygroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW Craft Bier Cafe Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. Craft serves good pub-food, but it’s beer that rules.QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW
Next to Mariinsky theatre
Dickens This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. PASW Manneken Pis Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW
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St. Petersburg, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru
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Next to Mariinsky theatre
August - September 2014
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Where to eat
Pivnaya Karta This is a unique place in St. Petersburg, with over 400 different kinds of craft and imported beers. You’ll find yourself standing behind the bar, in a New York style interior, helped by professionals to find that specific kind of beer you like, or will learn to love. This place is all about beer, it is non-smoking, and only minimal finger food is available. This place is about what really matters - beer.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 93 78, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAS The Corner Pub An English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded from the people who brought you Dickens. The bar carries on the same traditions as Dickens and you might even know Jimmy the barman. The menu remains unchanged but the line of beer has been improved dramatically - more than 30 sorts of beer, including the ever popular craft beers. Every Wednesday they have live rockabilly music.QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAESW Trappist Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea.QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Caucasian Baklazhan The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas and khachapuri.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat Khochu Kharcho “Khochu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW Mamalyga Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVSW Pryanosti i radosti Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and it quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but somehow it works. You feel like you in are in a busy, fun and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW
Grey’s coffeebar & bistro While it may offer a cheap café menu, Grey’s Bistro delivers it with style with its chic interior and tasty meals. The light menu offers a few salads, snacks and grilled items, all priced low enough, allowing you to order a variety of options to share. The café has also earned a reputation for its delicious cakes and coffee.QF-3, Konnaya ul. 5/3, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 925 42 50, www.greys-bistro.ru. Open 09:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. €. PSW Gypsy tapas bar Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish, the welcome is just as exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas, the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PAESW
Stopka - Small vodka glass Kroo Cafe It’s always nice to see new places appear in interesting central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Park Kroo Cafe serves breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps on going into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their French chef who is keen on buying his own products at the market, which only ads to the feeling that what you get is fresh. QF3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www.kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. PTASW
Jean-Jacques Traditional French café style food in a gorgeous red and mirror clad interior. Perfect for coffee or after-work drinks, this is a popular little place which can be relied upon for a short, sharp French fix. The flavorsome food is sure to satisfy, and the prices are more than fair.QE-3, Ul. Marata 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 49 03, www.jan-jak. com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAESW
Let it bar A little off the beaten track Let it Bar is subterranean bar with a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant and friendly, although the service is a little tardy. The interior consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, with plastered white walls. A walkin fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array of food and acts as the one element colour in the bar. Let it Bar offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with friends, but it has little to make it stand out of the crowd. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 32 46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €. PSW
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August - September 2014
European Erarta Café Located on the ground floor of the Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup, pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you, especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with fennel, smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has specialised in Mediterranean cuisine and has an offering of scallops and prawns. For meat lovers there is an meat menu.QВ-3, Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Tue 12:00 - 17:00. €. PTASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Where to eat
Where to eat Mon Petit Café While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés in town, its understated colors, comfortable chairs and impressionist artworks on the wall help give off a mildly Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is refreshingly brief with highlights including excellent patés as starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème brûlée for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just focus on quality ingredients and in the end deliver tasty and satisfying meals, which are also value for money.QF3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW
perhaps
Moskva The rooftop location on the 6th floor of the upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a dressier crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the fancy view. The decor is done out in various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and comfy yet expensive looking stuff. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe.QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW Pepper Moon From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your table. The menu offers European dishes, as well as Italian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.gratogroup.ru/peppermoon. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Piano Wine and Kitchen In a prime location along the Fontanka, the comfortable setting and friendly staff at Piano Wine and Kitchen makes it a great meeting place for that first drink of the night. As the name suggests, the bar offers an extensive wine menu with bottles from around the world, while the modest food menu serves more to complement the wines available.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 925 10 38. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW
34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Via dell’ Oliva Situated in the very heart of St. Petersburg, Via dell’ Oliva is a Mediterranean restaurant but it’s mostly just Italian cuisine here. This isn’t bad at all, just don’t except different specialties from around the Mediterranean. The restaurant’s dining areas are ornately decorated as multiple different Mediterranean settings and the restaurant also has room for even the largest of groups. There is also a decent selection of wine, a relaxing atmosphere, especially with live music on the weekend evenings, as well as a friendly staff.QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 31, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www. viadelloliva.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Volna Wave promotes itself as a ‘gastronomic destination’ and prides itself on its fresh produce and adventurous daily specials and creative evenings. The unusual interior structure offers two types of seating; a bright and sunny veranda area or a more discreet lounging den on the mezzanine. The cocktail and wine list have also been carefully selected to please the restaurant’s upper-class clientele, who also roll up here in the BMWs for late night drinks. Located directly behind Peter the Great’s House, it’s a good stop off between the Aurora ship and the Peter and Paul Fortress.QD-1, Petrovskaya nab. 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 53 83, www.volna.su. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALVESW
Fine dining
Soup Wine Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
Astoria Café Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALW
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True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994
20 years
10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru August - September 2014
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Where to eat
Where to eat L’Europe Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise for the taste buds. Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW
Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW Grand Cru Grand Cru brings molecular cuisine and top vintage wines to the banks of the Fontanka canal. The sleek look of the restaurant is as sophisticated and minimalist as you can imagine and the display of wines on sale (and the equally attractive staff selling them) take centre stage. The menu is an exciting adventure for the taste buds with all kinds of exotic flavours and unusual spices being combined together with top notch fish and meat, to give the diner something memorable and out of the ordinary. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 52, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 25 11, www.grandcru. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
miX in St. Petersburg The first restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia’s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails.QD-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. Open 07:00 24:00. €€€€. PTAEGKW
International Alfavit With a dining area reminiscent of an Ikea showroom, Alfavit’s spacious and basic design comes without the hipster attitude found in many of the city’s new small cafes. With a focus on healthy meals, the limited menu offers no starters. Instead it has a few salads, vegetable sides and some light mains - great for those watching their budget and waistline.QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 41, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 70 82. Open 11:00 23:00. €. PASW
Biblioteka This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here. The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. It is used for literary events, meetings with writers and book presentations. A bookshop is also located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW
Arka The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for afterwork, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open until 06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 240 24 96, www.arka.spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAESW
Buddha-Bar There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW
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Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW Wine Cellar 1853 Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. This cellar accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50 bottles of champagne. On the menu you can choose among others between four different fondues. Next to the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and a chocolate fondue, you can also go for the champagne and perigord truffle and cheese fondue. If you are considering a romantic candle lit dinner for two, hidden away from the world outside, then this is a good bet.QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com. Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Where to eat Five Points Gastrobar Upon entering Five Points, the design makes it clear that the focus is definitely on the booze, with wine crates and empty wine bottles decorating the interior as well as an aquarium of corks greeting guests just inside the entrance. Even the restaurant’s Wi-Fi password is alcohol-based, although focusing on rum rather than wine. Printed on rough, brown paper placemats, the menu offers a succinct overview of popular European dishes with something for everyone from soups and salads to heartier fare - except perhaps sushi lovers. The dishes are average at best, with the small serving sizes making them more as a snack food to be accompanied with the extensive alcohol menu.QE-3, Ul. Lomonosova 18, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 26. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sun 11:00 - 05:00. €€. PASW Gosti Dining in this continental restaurant is a bit like going to your provincial granny’s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Open 08:00 until last guest. €€. PTAGSW
Where to eat Koryushka Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul Fortress, a main tourist hotspot. The location affords great views of landmarks across the river, including the Winter Palace, and the restaurant makes the most of this, with lots of windows, and terraces, giving a spacious feel. The staff are helpful, and although the menu features fish dishes, there is also shashlik and salads on offer, as well as a good range of drinks. It is a nice restaurant to sit and enjoy the view after visiting this historic area of the city.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90 10, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW Mansarda Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are particularly recommended. In warm weather the rooftop terrace is an excellent venue for sunset cocktails or Sunday brunch.QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALSW
Meat Head Meat Head is set in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting with well spaced-out tables enabling intimate conversations. With meat being the main player we ordered the strip loin steak and it was perfect. The menu is quite diverse and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails with liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak house.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 00 44, www.meat-head.ru. Open 09:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW Moskva City Moskva City offers an unusual and fantastic view of St. Petersburg, with the broad Neva River glimmering in the sun. The good thing is, the food is not forgotten and is all tasty, served by friendly waiters and attractively presented. Prices are reasonable too. The terrace offers excellent space for lounging and partying. When the weather does not allow you to sit outside, they have lots of space in their well designed restaurant the next storey down.QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity. spb.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW ObedBufet The idea of ObedBufet is simple: multiple tables offer multiple types of food for reasonable prices. But with so much on offer, it’s difficult to know where to even begin. Using self-service, diners can enjoy various types of Russian-style salads, pancakes and soups, as well as shaverma, hamburgers, pizza, pasta and even sushi…and this is before you reach the dessert station. Each plate is then weighed at the cashier at the end of the food hall.QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 961 63 11, www.ginza.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVSW Paradise cafe&bar The menu is pure pan-Asian: rolls, miso soups, wok dishes and deep fried appetisers and everything we tried was prepared in a timely manner, with a good selection of accompanying sauces. It is not a restaurant as much as an oversized chill out lounge, where the food is merely a background item, something one needs to sustain themselves while sitting for hours and people watching in the cavernous surroundings.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.paradisecafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PAESW Penguin This restaurant-bar has an appealing atmosphere with dimmed lights and RnB music playing in the background. If are looking for a quiet place to have a romantic beer and a cocktail then this might be the place for you. However, the prices do not match the quality and the food is to be avoided.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 26/28, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 55 27. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW
38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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The only places where Belgian drinks and real Flemish dishes are served perfectly Cafe Trappist 36 Radischeva Street +7 (812) 275-99-35 Cafe Manneken Pis 198 Moskovsky Prospect +7 (812) 371-90-31
Unique bar and boutique 400 different bottles Pivnaya Karta 55 Vosstaniya Street +7 (812) 273-93-78 www.beercard.ru
Cult Californian beer Boutique bar Pivnaya Karta is now offering over 400 different types of beer. The pub is run by two beer connoisseurs whose passion for beer has taken them around Europe and even across the Atlantic in search of the tastiest brews. The pride of their pick so far comes from Anderson Valley in sunny California, which is America’s first trappist beer and brings which is so appropriate to St. Petersburg’s summer lifestyle. If you want to indulge in European varieties then Pivnaya Karta has a great range of trappist beers, reflecting a beer tradition that goes back to 1095 and the time of the First Crusade. While the beer here may smell of ancient antiquity, you can enjoy tradition with modern comfort, the interior is modernistic and you could be forgiven for thinking that you have stepped into a bar in central Manhattan. The bar itself is equipped with the latest technical equipment to ensure that the beer tastes its best. While to guide you on that daunting challenge of finding the right beer with the right taste and the right mood the bar has a team of specialist who will act as your guides and tutors in this exacting art. In addition to their 400 different varieties the bar also offers weekly novelties with ‘visiting ales’. Those who prefer their beer to be ‘poured’ and not bottled have a choice of 14 beers to choose from. Cider lovers have similarly been catered for with 30 ciders to choose from. August - September 2014
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Where to eat
Russian summer menu The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. 40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat Polyanka This comfortable little café is located in the historic centre of the city. The café offers an international of some of the best known and best tasting dishes from around the world, with its own original interpretation. The wine list deliberately includes lesser known but nonetheless interesting wines from smaller wineries. Polyanka also does breakfast and lunch. Keep your eyes out for the café’s mascot Lida the stuffed duck who has a history all of her own. QE-3, Kolokolnaya ul. 10, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 92 10. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW Ribai A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt for something other than steak there’s another pleasant surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an American eatery the portions are mammoth and their delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai does. Don’t miss Ribai Borsch, a house specialty that successfully blends the cornerstone soup of Russian cuisine with Western flavors.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAVESW Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Terrassa Terrassa features an open kitchen, wonderful views from the sixth floor that almost make you feel like you’re in the sky, and stylish interiors. The menu is gargantuan, almost shocking: each turn of the page is like discovering a new restaurant. A short list of the cuisines on offer include Georgian, Russian, Thai, pan-Asian, sushi, pastas, pizzas, salads, seafood, and soups: you name it and they seemingly seem to have it on the menu. The wine list is extensive and features an elite wine section with bottles priced up to 430,000Rbl. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37, www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAULVESW The Living Room Operating as a quaint burger bar, The Living Room offers a decent American-style menu while allowing you to relax in a wooden interior complete with a modest bar and widescreen television. To help wash down the satisfying large burgers, such as “London Eye” and “Pulp Fiction”, is a choice of seven draught beers and a humble selection of spirits.QС-2, Bolshaya Zelenina ul. 20, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 965 021 31 71. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PNW Volga-Volga Volga Volga can be found on a functioning riverboat. Between May and October the ship cruises up and down the Neva providing breathtaking views and a literally dynamic atmosphere. The menu mainly relies on seafood and rightfully so:
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the place offers an unprecedentedly authentic Tom Yum and most of other fish offerings are refreshing and sophisticated enough to please a true connoisseur. Catch the Volga Volga boat on a summer weekend night to admire the views of the drawn bridges.QD-1, Petrovskaya nab. 8, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 83 38, www.ginza-volga.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAEGSW Zig Zag Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. Entering the space feels like you’ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents.QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00, www.zigzag.spb.ru/english/index.php. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Music&Bar MOPS VIP-Karaoke Club Thai cuisine restaurant address: Saint-Petersburg, Rubinshteina str.12 tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90, +7 (921)961-92-21
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Sky Bar Sky Bar claims to offer the highest panoramic views in St. Petersburg. It is located 69 metres above sea level on the 18th storey of the AZIMUT Hotel and provides guests with breathtaking views of the historic city - being significantly higher than most other buildings in the area. The minimalistic style of the bar is accentuated by the sharp contrast of the interior design with dark walls contrasting against marble of the bar. The lighting is provided with muted lights and tall panoramic windows. The bar’s menu includes items from Scandinavian, Asian and Russian cuisine. QC-4, AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 46, www. azimuthotels.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAGW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Where to eat
Italian Gusto A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce.QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW Italy The chef spent many years in Italy, learning the secrets of Italian cooking. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner as you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes of pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries or grilled fish and meat. Downstairs is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if you’ve made the mistake of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a meal you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot coffee or tea.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Jamie’s Italian There are restaurants which carry this name in more than 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and people are hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Makaronniki Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their summer terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sandbox for the kids. Enjoy unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Marcelli’s Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW
Quest’è Pasta Founded by member of St. Petersburg’s Italian community, this is a restaurant for Italians and those who appreciate everything Italian. The first floor has a discrete design with pastel colours. The second storey is decorated like a 19th century mansion with a fireplace, high ceilings and stucco walls. On celebrations you can hear live opera music. The menu does not include the pizzas typical in most Italian restaurants, but you can enjoy some of the chef’s specialties. A bottle of Italian wine is always a good addition to your evening meal! For desert, then there is no doubt about it, panna cotta or lemon cake.QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 921 962 54 76, www.questepasta.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAESW
Palermo Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Testo Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW
Vladimirsky pr.12 tel:8(921)962-54-76 events@questepasta.com www.questepasta.ru www.questepasta.com
REAL TRADITIONAL ITALIAN FOOD MORE THAN
Working hours of the restaurant 11:30 - 02:00 Business - lunch time (monday-friday) 11:30 - 16:00 Business-breakfasts, banquets, weddings and corporate events, culinary master-classes, wine degustations.
20 TYPES OF REAL ITALIAN COFFEE
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Where to eat ginza news Jamie’s Italian The new season at Jamie’s Italian boasts a wide variety of new dishes. With the restaurant now delivering, you can now enjoy the famous Jamie Oliver’s own recipes in the comfort of your own home. The restaurant presents a breakfast menu – scrambled eggs on toast with salmon and spinach, or pancakes with a berry compote and ricotta. In fact, the only thing left unchanged is the incredible taste of Italy, a very friendly team and a wonderful London atmosphere!QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www. jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tsar Pop into the restaurant ‘Tsar’ for lunch from 12.00 till 16.00 and sample some excellent traditional authentic Russian dishes. Salad with beef, nourishing soup, Siberian dumplings with Smetana, teas and jams, all in a friendly atmosphere in the centre of the cultural capital. QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALESW
Where to eat Grand Hotel EUROPE Sun, warmth, great vibes and clear blue skies… what can make a summer more perfect? The perfect cocktail, of course. Belmond hotels knows the formula for summer perfection and is therefore very pleased to present you a very special cocktail collection from around the world at the Lobby Bar in the Grand Hotel Europe. Just a few of the flavorful concoctions you can expect from the head bartender Alexey Smirnov who’s undergone a special training course in the chain’s hotels in Brazil and Peru are the signature cocktail of Belmond’s Peruvian hotels “Pisco Sour” (pisco, lime juice, sugar syrup and quail egg white) and the pride and joy of Belmond’s Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro and Belmond Hotel das Cataratas in the Iguazu Falls National Park – the classical Brazilian Caipirinha! Borrowing from Italy’s Cipriani Hotel in Venice, the Caruso in Amalfi and the Splendido in Portofino we present two classy summer thirst-quenchers: La Nina Passion (Italian sparkling wine with elder-berry syrup and passionfruit) and the Buonanotte Amigos! (tequila, fresh ginger, cucumber and cranberry). That’s not all. Next door’s Mezzanine Café is making full use of the melon and watermelon season with a range of delightful fruity cocktails that are not to be missed!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www. grandhoteleurope.com.
Novotel Every nation has its own special traditions and whether you’re new to Russia or you’re more of a local by now, you might have noticed that towards the end of summer things tend to get “mushroomy” around here. Mushroom picking is one of the favorite past times across the nation but, unfortunately, not ever one has the opportunity to take part in this relaxing and delicious hobby. Not surprisingly, the Russian cuisine boasts the largest variety of mushroomfilled dishes. If you won’t be able to get your Wellies on and hit the forest this season, do not to fret: Novotel St. Petersburg Center has prepared a very special menu so that anyone and everyone can get a taste of this beloved leisure pursuit. The restaurant Cote Jardin is thrilled to offer you traditional Russian recipes that embrace all the goodness of the wide variety of mushrooms our forests spoil us with, as well as ones inspired by foreign cuisines. Just a few mouth-watering examples include “Friseé salad with chanterelles, potatoes, poached eggs and yogurt dressing”, “Chanterelle Julienne”, and “Potato-cheese soup with chanterelles”. And before we forget: mushrooms not only make food more scrumptious but are also very good for our health so make sure to get your vitamin supply ahead of winter!QE-3, Novotel St. Petersburg Centre, ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679.
Radisson Royal Hotel
REstaurants in hotels Courtyard by Marriott St.Petersburg Pushkin hotel There’s a very special Eastern Slavic holiday that takes place on August 19th every year: Savior of the Apple Feast Day. There are three such Savior holidays, the other two being Honey Saviour and Nut Savior but the Apple is the most important one of them all. Although it has a pre-Christian origin associated with harvesting ripe fruits, especially apples, it eventually became a Christian holiday and now entails processions and blessings of harvests...and eating lots and lots of apples, apple pies or other dishes containing apples! Courtyard by Marriott St.Petersburg Pushkin hotel is no stranger to local traditions or apple delicacies so come down to the Bierstube Restaurant or Onegin Lounge to enjoy tasteful dishes and desserts with apples!QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Radisson Hotels are known for using their wide international presence and proximity to different cultures of the world to enrich guests’ experience. Radisson Royal Hotel invites you to try a taste of India this August in Cannelle Bar & Café! The new exclusive menu prepared by Radisson Royal Hotel’s sous-chef Ravi Lall offers all the best from India wrapped up in the form of finger food. Vegetarian guests will delight in vegetarian dishes like Paneer Tikka or Sago and Aloo Tikki, while carnivores can savour Rawa Fried Fish in a Red chilli paste, Kalmi Kebabs in yogurt and a blend of Indian spices and Beef Shammi Kebabs with mint sauce. Afterwards, spoil your sweet tooth with Gajar Ka Halwa (carrot and milk Pudding with a scoop of vanilla ice cream). On a separate note, the season of fruit and vegetables may end by September but not in Radisson! The healthy lifestyle lives on so enjoy the new vegetable menu of soups, hot dishes and desserts. QE-3, Radisson Royal Hotel, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. €€.
Taleon Imperial Hotel St. Petersburg’s elegant Taleon Imperial Hotel in the heart of the Northern Capital would like to invite you to dine in style and try a special fragrant summer menu at its panoramic Victoria Restaurant, located on the 6th floor, while admiring a simply breatktaking view of the city’s historical center. This new menu was meticulously prepared by Brand Chef Alexander Dregolsky to include the most appetizing and flavorful in grilled dishes (Bone-in Beef Rib from New Zealand, Rack of Lamb from Australia, Beef Tenderloin, Veal Rib Chops, Chicken, Dorado or Giant King Prawns) accompanied by a sauce of choice and a variety of sides. But you must hurry as this unique menu is only available until September 17th! In addition to the grilled specialties, the summer menu includes gourmet delicacies such as Crab Cake Napoleon with Rouille sauce and avocado & tomato tar-tar, Chilean Seabass with truffle risotto and Kenyan beans served with coral oil emulsion, Tiger prawns and deep-sea scallops
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with spinach and caviar sauce, Poached egg served on a grain toast with homemade mayonnaise and Pike patties with mild-cured asparagus and drawn butter. But you must hurry as the gourmet menu is only available until August 31st and the grill menu until September 17th! QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com.
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden Outdoor summer terraces are the new big thing on the streets of the Northern Capital but not many can boast such a pleasant, cozy and truly laidback atmosphere that the two brand news ones just launched by Sokos Hotels can. The terrace at Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden is back this season with beautiful new floral designs to create a charming light-hearted summer ambiance, a revamped special terrace menu from Executive chef Nikolay Eliseev and an open grill, where guests can see their choice of meat or fish be prepared right in front of them. Summer of 2014 is definitely not short of fascinating, captivating and riveting sporting events. The only difference is that now every sports fan can enjoy watching their favorite game in a fresh outdoor setting instead of a cooped up sports bar. Welcome to Sport Bar ‘84 at the Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden. Twenty TV’s should be more than enough to captivate the athletes’ every move; a delicious menu abundant in burgers, several traditional Finnish dishes and other solid culinary delights should satisfy anyone’s taste; and, of course, a well stacked bar should be able to quench just about everyone’s thirst. QD-4, Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi.
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Nightlife
Nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!
Artsy and Underground Belochka & Mielofon As tricky to find as all St. Petersburg’s underground bars tend to be, head down Bankovsky pereulok and turn into the dark side street at house 3, turn right and go up to the end of the even darker and creepy looking yard and listen out for the music coming from a basement. Down in the tartan wallpapered basement you’ll find two rooms, one a beer hall style area for drinking and chatting and the other a louder dance floor area with the obligatory table-football installed. QD2, Bankovsky per. 3, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 212 85 06. Open 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PEW Borodabar Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar. ru. Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW
Cafe-Bar Produkty Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe – the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW
Bars and Pubs Bristol Pub Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - everything here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs of the 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the England of the time. Don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the cooking - everything’s simply done, but very tasty. The menu is a combination of European and Russian dishes as well as a large assortment of beers and other kinds of alcoholic beverage.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW
Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW Mollie’s Irish Pub St. Petersburg’s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky, offers just what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie’s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly. su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 01:00. PASW Mollie’s Mews A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on ulitsa Rubinshteina. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW Molly Island Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, friendly staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the perfect place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, if you don´t feel like travelling all the way to the centre.QB-1, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW
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Molly Shelter Shelter is the right word for this snug little basement Irish Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle in, relax and take shelter. The basement’s careful restoration gives the pub a very authentic look and the various bits of antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness.QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW The Office Pub This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW
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Nightlife
Nightlife Clubs Barrel This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. There’s an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW Dacha This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Dom Byta The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl?QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Radiobaby With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www. radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
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Kazan Cathedral: Modelled on St Paul’s Cathedral in Rome the Kazan Cathedral was built21in 1801-1811. The dome is 80 metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky prospect has 96 columns. FURSHTATS
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St. Petersburg’s central street and runs for 4.5 kilometres. Palace Square: A large square in front of the Hermitage. It is full of historic buildings and monuments and is a It is the site of numerous historical events including Bloody centre for the cultural life of the city. Initially established Sunday in 1905 and the 1917 revolution. The central feature in the 1710s under Peter the Great it was known as the of the square is. Alexander’s Column, which is 47.5 metres LETNY B SAD Road to Nevsky Monastery. Going through several name high and weighs NA 500 tonnes. It was installed in 1830-1834. YA changes it finally became Nevsky prospekt in 1781. The A V 4 SO Soviets were unable to refrain from renaming it and spire: Located as part of the building of the MARSOVO T Admiralty L. named it after the Prolekult artistic organisation before VORRussian Admiralty (1718-1917) the spirePOLE intersects three U BIRZHEVAYA YAPetersburg streets. The gilt spire is 73 metres high. changing it to Prospekt of the 25th of October in honourD main ASt. 7 Y PROE PL. NN street came under artillery 28 ZD of the 1917 revolution. The HERMITAGE RIVER IO attack during the Blockade of Leningrad and you can ILL 5 Dutch Reformed Church: The church was construct4 still see damage on some of the buildings, plaques andM27 edKAin 1834-1839 and is evidence of the long standing conDVORTSOVY I the occasional bouquet. MOST The avenue is used for most sig- MOnection between the Netherlands and Russia. Shut down nificant celebrations. in 1926, it now houses a number of cultural organisations. 3
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50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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B 1 St. Isaacs Cathedral:6Built from 1818 to 1858 and cost 12 Arts square: is a monument to pre-Soviet centralisation. 3 74 purchase price of Alaska. The27cathedral’s K more than the The square gives your access to The Russian Museum, the EthOY U 14 dome is 101 metres high. During the Soviet period the tury. The Soviets turned nographic Museum, the Maly Opera and Ballet Theatre, the 55 K O 8 PE it into a museum of aristocratic life. L. L OKOLN SHCH Hall of the St. Petersburg Philharmonic. R. cathedral was turned into the MuseumUof Large Concert YA L . the History of It is still used as a museum. UL. AAnumKOV ERBALOMONOSOVA ber of restaurants A Religion and Atheism and Faucault’s and cafes are also located around the square. P E 39 K AYPendulum was hung PL. R DOSTOEVSKAYA . S 11 7 St. Catherine’s Basilica: This as evidence that the EarthZrotates AP is the oldest Catholic 7 AN around Uthe L . Sun and LO 13 RA A exist. You can UZNECwas 17 Ploschad Vostaniya (Uprising Square): was origitherefore that God couldKnot in 1783 with Alexandrinsky Theatre: The neo-classicalKtheatre YA visit both the church in Russia. The church was completed 7 M . 59 a T K A L H O K U S NO in 1832 and is40one of the best theatres in the coun-NY Pnally ER. named after a nearby church which was pulled down 7 ELEZ Vcathedral and the columns (a separate opened NS ticket) which give dome that is 342 8 metres high. The churchINwas run by various VLADIMIRSKAYA SO PE and ransacked ISTO you89wonderful views of the city. DA 13 4 R 15 monastic orders over its history. It was closed try. It offers a range of classical and contemporary perforand replaced with the Oktyabrskaya Hotel. The square’s V 7 B R H AU A . AZ SADOVAYA R in 1938. The church returned to active service in 2003. mances. In front of the theatre is a statue of Catherine the new name celebrates the revolution. In 1985 an obelisk SHOPPING L G7 M 1 . 53 DZ 8 7 was the Winter Palace of the SENNAYA PL. 2 Hermitage: The Hermitage Great which13was installed was placed in theCENTER centre of the square to celebrate the 40th IRG 6 HA RA1 in 1873. BO 71 GALERIA YA M 9 0 8 7 was financed by SV Russian tsars and is now one of Russia’s leading museums. It’s PL. Armenian Church: This church anniversary of the end of World War II. The square is a vital ORO ZY SENNAYA 2 ROthe BU 1 EF EC art gallery focuses transport hub with the Moscow Railway Station, a metro EZ This two storey D L . I D 14 AnnaRNova M collection includes works from pretty much all of the leading wealthy Armenian businessman Ioakhim Lazarev. This Art Gallery: A H ZH IN 74 P NO PE O SEMYONOVSKAYA 4 Y S A R 0 western European painters, including a fine 19thL.and 20th small, elegantVchurch was built in 1771-1776. In 1930 the on young, up-and-coming local artists and is a great place to station and a bus station all adjoining it. K Y AU . DN 3 PL. AY 13 YA U see it to- church was closed O pop in for a visit. The curators ULexperts from PnoERless century French collection. The Winter Palace as are A U 1 ORjust L. and 91 theB.original interiors and icon. an YA we 7 3 . A A 0 115 G L day was largely constructed under Catherine the5 Great in the ostasis lost. During WorldNWar II it was used as the head institution than the State Hermitage museum, it is probably not V A . With Peter the Great still alive Nevsky was Z Y DO stormed by the quarters for anti-aircraft mid to late 18th century. The buildingAwas surprising that exhibitions typically present traditional works on EK defence. It was returned to the 4 R known as the Big Prospekt S 4 Bolsheviks during the November Revolution of 1917. Church in 1990.NKY paper or canvas though with modern pop sensibilities. BO
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What to see
What to see Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside town though. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
BRIDGES Bridges going up… Dvortsovy
01:25 - 02:50
03:10 - 04:55
Blagoveshchensky
01:25 - 02:45
03:10 - 05:00
Sampsonievsky
01:30 - 04:30
Grenadersky
01:30 - 04:30
Kantemirovsky
01:30 - 04:30
Troitsky
01:35 - 04:50
Liteiny
01:40 - 04:45
Birzhevoy
02:00 - 04:55
Tutchkov
02:00 - 02:55
Bolsheokhtinsky
02:00 - 05:00
Volodarsky
02:00 - 03:45
Alexandra Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10 Finlyandsky
02:20 - 05:30
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
03:35 - 04:55 04:15 - 05:45
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Cruiser Avrora The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself!QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great
St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
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www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Summer Garden Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths.QD-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.
CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the insides and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 days options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos August - September 2014
53
What to see
What to see
Hermitage
Churches
Museums
The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.
St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past.
St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage art gallery, to museums about the city’s famous writers, including Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to vodka (of course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also see castles and palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle, and the Menshikov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is now The State Museum of History of St Petersburg. Also, for one night every year in May, all of the museums in the city open their doors until the early hours for the Night of the Museums, which is very popular with tourists and locals alike!
The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices). QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.
F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone. Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.
Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Grandmaket (Russia in miniature) QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend 450Rbl, children 250Rbl. House of Peter the Great QD-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 45 76, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 70 - 200Rbl. Museum of the History of Religion QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avantgarde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www. polithistory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl. Suvorov Memorial Museum QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.
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Lyrical City With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them.
Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.
modern art centres If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works. Anna Nova Art Gallery QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Borey Art Centre QD-3, Liteiny pr. 58, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 38 37, www.borey.ru. DiDi Art Gallery QB-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 62, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 73 57, www.didigallery.com. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. S.P.A.S Gallery QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. ROSPHOTO QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. August - September 2014
55
What to see PARKS
St. Petersburg is home to many parks and gardens in which you can while away an afternoon. They are romantic and beautiful, whether dipped in sunlight or blanketed in snow. The Summer Garden is the oldest, dating back to the 18th Century, and was designed by Peter the Great. A lot of the parks are home to cafes and other facilities for visitors. Yelagin Park, located on Yelagin Island, is one of the most popular parks in the city, and often hosts various events throughout the year. The parks are great places to get away from the chaos of the city and enjoy nature. Tavrichesky Garden QF-3, MChernyshevskaya, www.tavrsad.com. Open 24hrs. Yelagin Park QMKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11, www.elaginpark.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 23:00. Yusupovsky garden QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 50, MSennaya pl. Open 24hrs.
BE MY happy guest This is a new project to give foreign visitors a truly Russian experience to explore the culture and the friendship of the real Russia. Be My Guest arranges home stays for tourists, so you can enjoy a home made meal, spend the evening chatting to your hosts, perhaps even learn how to cook borsch, make Russian pancakes or home made pelmeni. Be My Guest opens up Russian’s homes and Russian’s hearts to you. Discover local traditions, local superstitions and try to discover the secret of the Russian soul. The project also offers a range of unusual cultural programmes that help you understand the domestic side of Russian life and lets you discover what it is like to live like a Russian. Put politics aside and discover this homely world. www.facebook. com/BeMyHappyGuest, tel. (+7) 981 168 07 42 56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
What to see Tours around
Old Soviet Stuff TourS
Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city`s canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. Boat tours will depart daily from mid-April.QD-2, Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www. boattrip.ru. Admission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children, students and return tickets. PAUEK
If you want to see a completely different side of St. Petersburg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old Soviet Stuff Tour. The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of interesting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly decaying communistic factory and some other surprises just around the corner. We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24. Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineering pride. The drive should already be a part of the adventure and with this Volga that certainly was the case! WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since
his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other excursions during the season. Something involving Russian country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says their slogan! Have fun! QTel. (+7) 965 786 26 48, www. wowrussiatours.com. Tours are possible everyday. Pick up point and time are flexible. Admission from 2,000Rbl per person.
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City Tour Bus Tracing a route around the city’s most popular spots such as St. Isaac’s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these unique in Russia hopon, hop-off red doubledeckers are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over two hours to complete and there are audio guides that narrate the most fascinating facts and legends about St. Petersburg and its heroes in one of 11 languages, including Japanese, Chinese, Swedish, Finnish and Dutch. An added advantage is that the ticket is valid for a whole day, so you can plan your own city visit as you like, taking your own time for visiting museums, taking photos, lunch or even a beer on an embankment.QD-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69/(+7) 961 800 07 55, www. citytourspb.ru. Start from Ostrovsky sq., departure every 30-60 min from 09:00 till 19:00. Adults 500Rbl, students 400Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Tickets can be bought on the bus. PUN Peter’s Walking Tours A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tours one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. They also have bike tours. For more information and full timetable check out the website. QTel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. Walking tours are held daily until the end of October. Walking tour 650Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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What to see
What to see St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts
Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces 250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. Pavlovsk QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. Peterhof QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. Pushkin QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. Strelna QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. Excursion in English 3,000Rbl (1,5 hour up to 15 people, each participant has to pay individual admission 300Rbl.) 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Konstantinovsky Palace Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building). Peterhof Palace and Park Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends.
wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building, the only place in the park where you can buy food or drinks.
Pavlovsk Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.
Oranienbaum Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that
Pushkin Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.
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Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station. Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof ). By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. To Peterhof you can also take the Meteor speedboat from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2. See more: www. peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof.
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Where to stay
Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.
5 Stars Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg Q小-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms. Golden Garden Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms. Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 214 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. Nevsky Forum QE-3, Nevsky pr. 69, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 02 22, www.nevskyforum.com. 29 rooms.
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pribaltiyskaya QA-3, Ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 26 26, www.parkinn.com. 1200 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms. Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms . Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms. Vedensky Hotel QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS 37, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 42 22, www.alrosa-hotels.ru/hotels/st-petersburg/. 158 rooms.
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4 Stars
U menya zabronirovan nomer I have a reservation 60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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Where to stay
Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Natalia Moshkina, Head Concierge of Belmond Grand Hotel Europe Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Natalia Moshkina. I was born in Saint Petersburg. I studied at the State University of Art and Culture and graduated specialising in Spanish language. I have always been interested in humanities, languages and arts, which all influenced my future career choice. I speak three foreign languages: Spanish, English and Italian. I am proud to say that I have worked at Belmond Grand Hotel Europe for eight years now; I started as a Junior Concierge, and now I’ve risen to the position of Head Concierge where I’m lucky enough to work with a wonderful team. Tell us why St. Petersburg is the most beautiful city in the world. Because it’s full of culture, full of colours, and always different but so native and beloved. We St. Petersburg citizens have a calm, relaxed and reflective attitude. I like to travel a lot, and it’s when I come home from a trip that I feel an especially strong love for my city. What I find most impressive is catching views of breath-taking sunsets walking along the embankments and avenues when the city is at its most picturesque. I enjoy the harmony of my city.
3 Stars
tel. (+7) 812 337 24 34, www.stonyisland.com. 50 rooms. Vesta QE-3, Nevsky pr. 92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 13 22, www.vesta-hotel.ru. 16 rooms.
3 Mosta Hotel QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 332 34 70, www.3mosta.com. 26 rooms. Amaranta Admiralteyskaya Hotel QC-3, Ul. A. Bloka 8, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 495 44 65, www.amaranta.ru. 54 rooms. Andersen Hotel QC-1, Ul. Chapygina 4, bldg. A, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 51 40, www.andersenhotel.ru. 140 rooms. AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya QE-3, Stremyannaya ul. 18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www.stremyannaya-hotel.com. 49 rooms. Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. Hotel Vera QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 25/16, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 61 90, www.hotelvera.ru. 70 rooms. IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. Stony Island Hotel QC-1, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45, MPetrogradskaya,
Cubahostel QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. 15 rooms. Simple Hostel QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com. 7 rooms.
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Mini-hotels 5th Corner Hotel QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 13, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 81 81, www.5ugol.ru. 52 rooms. AlexanderPlatz QE-4, Voronezhskaya ul. 53, MObvodny kan., tel. (+7) 812 490 48 10, www.eurasia-hotel.ru. 35 rooms. Art-hotel Rachmaninov QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 97 78, www.hotelrachmaninov.com. 24 rooms. Domik v Kolomne QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 174 bldg. A, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 83 51, www.colomnahotel.ru. 9 rooms.
Hostels
What is your most memorable experience while working in hotels? Definitely the day when I saw the Spanish Royal Family during their stay at Belmond Grand Hotel Europe - my childhood dream had come true, which I never imagined would happen in real life! What can we expect from the Grand Hotel Europe in August & September? In August our hotel’s restaurant Caviar Bar, the only caviar restaurant in St. Petersburg, will offer guests a wide and unique selection of Caviar: 11 sorts of black and red caviar, as well as exclusive albino sturgeon golden caviar – famous for its rare and delicate flavour.
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain - the registrations is their responsibility, not yours! 62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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Shopping
Shopping Russian souvenirs
RAKETA WATCHES
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following:
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watchmaking process are still in use. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com
Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.
Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing. Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. 64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Moskovsky Department Store The Moskovsky Department Store is a large mall located on Moskovsky prospect, one of the city’s main roads as you approach St. Petersburg from the airport. The shopping centre is located on both sides of the road with departments for men, women and children. With a total area of 10.5 square kilometers there should be something for everyone and as the shops are open 24 hours you can get what you need no matter how early or how late. The shopping centre supplies top foreign and Russian brands.QMoskovsky pr. 207, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 44 55, www.moskovsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK
Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Vladimirsky Passage QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. Open 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Stockmann Delicatessen QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 60 00, www.stockmann.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Built in 1909 the building's architecture mixes modernist and art nouveau influences popular at the turn of century, inside however the influences are much more cutting edge. Five floors of designer shopping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who need to take a break and for the discerning VIP shopper personal stylist services will also be available.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW
Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb. ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK
Vintage and Second-hand
Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Banya Concept Store QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60, MObnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www.banyaconcept.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Shop Salon Off QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60, MObvodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 929 92 03, www.offoffoff.ru. Open 12:00 22:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
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Gifts and Souvenirs
DLT Department store
August - September 2014
65
Expat & Lifestyle
Expat & Lifestyle In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest that make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.spb@inyourpocket.com.
russian for expats Lapsha – Лапша In Russian it means ‘noodles’, and you can easily find this word on the menu of a restaurant. Then it’s up to you to see if you feel like trying the ‘Russian spaghetti’ or not. But if a Russian woman (or man!) tells you: “что ты мне лапшу на уши вешаешь?!” (literally, ‘stop hanging spaghetti on my ears!’), then it’s a whole different story. It means that you have overstepped your courting abilities, and that your date is reproaching you for fooling him/ her with untruthful and exaggerated compliments. The origin of this expression is much disputed. An interesting explanation calls into question the Italians, who are as famous for their delicious spaghetti, as well as for their reputation of impenitent Don Juans.
Liden & Denz Liden & Denz is one of St Petersburg’s oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Now they have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor (though the original centre off Ligovsky pr. also remains opens). Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org. 66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cultural Centres and Libraries British Book Centre QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign Literature Library QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. Goethe Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Japan Center QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
clinics American Medical Clinic and Hospital QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs. Euromed Medical Center QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs. Scandinavia clinic QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. Fryday Qwww.fryday.net. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily.
Religious Services Catholic Church of St. Catherine QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.
Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group. The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
The Expat Experience Please tell us something about yourself? Hello! My name is James Wheeler and I have been coming to Russia for almost 8 years. I have mainly travelled to St. Petersburg but I have also visited Moscow, Samara and Yaroslavl. How did you end up in Russia? I was invited for a holiday after finishing university and as most students take a gap-year between studies or finding a job I decided to accept the invitation to Visit Russia. I knew nothing at all about Russia but like most young people was enthusiastic about seeing the world and meeting new people. I was initially invited for three months but after 7 years of traveling here I have become a huge fan of St. Petersburg, the Russians and the Slavic hospitality. I’m still wrangling with holodets though - ha ha! (holodets - is usually beef in cold jelly served with a shot of vodka. It can be delicious. It can also be very rubbery) What would you recommend first time visitors to St. Petersburg? Try the holodets! But serioulsy - immmerse yourself in the culture and meet the locals. It is said time & again that once you impart the icy exterior of a Russian there is endless warm & welcome just beneath the surface. My favourite places to visit would be the Peter & Paul Fortress, Elagin island and the surrounding waterways and boat clubs. St. Isaacs Cathedral, the Church of St. Nicholas, & Kazan Cathedral are also very impressive. Definitely take a boat trip. I would recommend starting from Anichkov Bridge on Nevsky Prospekt, it’s the one with the exquisite but rebellious horses. Take the excursion which goes into the city, under bridges through winding, narrow canals, then finally breaking out onto the grand Neva. Why Dickens? Dickens pubs attempt to meld the Russians desire for table service with a traditional pub atmosphere. We started 9 years ago and have expanded to 4 pubs in the city centre, each unique but all serving fresh varied beers the traditional British way. Beer enthusiasts will not be disappointed with our forty taps dispensing cold-room chilled beers in styles from around the world. We look forward to seeing you!
Skolko stoit? – How much is it? August - September 2014
67
Maps
Business Accountants and Lawyers Acsour QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Avenir Group QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Deloitte Touche CIS QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, www.deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PW EMG (Accountants & Consultants) QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mannheimer Swartling QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Moore Stephens International QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51, www.moorestephens.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www.pgplaw.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PriceWaterhouseCoopers QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business Associations American Chamber of Commerce QC-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia QD-3, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 68 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery.
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Mariinsky Theatre The home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s, the Mariinsky Theatre, is a cultural leader and one of the most illustrious and beautiful theatres in the world.
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Street register
Moscow
1-28-ya liniya
B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.
C-3
Rubinshteina ul.
E-3
Admiralteisky pr.
D-3
E-2
Ryleeva ul.
E-2
Kovensky per.
Alexandra Nevskogo most
F-3
Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.
F-2
Sadovaya ul.
E-2,3
Angliskaya nab.
C-3
Kronverkskaya nab.
D-2
Sampsonievsky most
D-1 E-2
Anichkov most
E-3
Kronversky pr.
D-1
Sapyorny per.
Arsenalnaya nab.
E-2
Kutuzova nab.
D-2/E-2
Shpalernaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Bakunina pr.
F-3
Lermontovsky pr.
C-3/C-4
Shvedsky per.
D-2
Baskov per.
E-2
Letny sad
D-2
Sinopskaya nab.
F-3
Belinskogo ul.
E-2
Leitenanta Shmidta nab.
C-3
Smolnaya nab.
F-2
Birzhevaya liniya
C-2
Ligovsky pr.
E-3/E-4
Solyanoy per.
E-2
Blagoveshchensky most
C-2
Liteiny most
E-2
Sotsialisticheskaya ul.
E-3
Blokhina ul.
C-2
Liteiny pr.
E-2/E-3
Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.
E-3/F-2,3
Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Lomonosova ul.
D-3/E-3
Spassky per.
D-3
Bol. Morskaya ul.
C-3/D-3
Makarova nab.
C-2
Sredniy pr. (V0)
B-2,3/C-2
Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.
D-3
Mal. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Starorusskaya ul.
F-3
Bolsheokhtinsky most
F-2
Mal. Morskaya ul.
D-3
Stolyarny per.
D-3
Bolshoy pr. (PS)
C-1,2
Mal. Posadskaya
D-1
Stremyannaya ul.
E-3
Bolshoy pr. (VO)
B-3/C-2
Mal. Sadovaya
E-3
Suvorovsky pr.
F-2,3
Chernyshevskogo pr.
E-2
Maly pr. (PS)
C-1
Sverdlovskaya nab.
F-1,2
Chkalovsky pr.
C-1
Maly pr. (VO)
B-1
Tavricheskaya ul.
F-2
Degtyarnaya ul.
F-3
Manezhnaya pl.
E-3
Chaikovskogo ul.
E-2
Dekabristov ul.
C-3/D-3
Marata ul.
E-3
Teatralnaya pl.
C-3
Dostoevskogo ul.
E-3
Marsovo pole
D-2
Troitsky most
D-2
Dumskaya ul.
D-3
Mayakovskogo ul.
E-2/E-3
Tuchkov most
C-2
Dvortsovaya nab.
D-2
Mendeleevskaya liniya
C-2
Tverskaya ul.
F-2
Efimova ul.
D-3
Mikhailovskaya ul.
D-3
Universitetskaya nab.
C-2,3
Furshtatskaya ul.
E-2
Millionnaya ul.
D-2
Vladimirsky pr.
E-3
Galernaya ul.
C-3
Moskovsky pr.
D-3/D-4
Vosstaniya ul.
E-2,3
Glinki ul.
C-3
Moiky reky nab.
C-3/D-2,3
Vosstaniya pl.
E-3
Goncharnaya ul.
E-3
Muchnoy per.
D-3
Voznesensky pr.
D-3
Gorokhovaya ul.
D-3
Mytninskaya nab.
С-2/D-2
Zagorodny pr.
D-3,4/E-3
Grafsky per.
E-3
Nekrasova ul.
E-2
Zhukovskogo ul.
E-3
Griboedova kan. nab.
C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.
D-3/E-3/F-3
Grivtsova per.
D-3
Ostrovskogo pl.
E-3
Inzhenernaya ul.
E-3
Pestelya ul.
E-2
Abbreviations
Isaakievskaya pl.
D-3
Petrovskaya nab.
D-2
Ul. – Ulitsa
Iskusstv pl.
D-3
Pirogovskaya nab.
E-1/E-2
Pr. – Prospekt
Italyanskaya ul.
D-3/D-4
Pochtamtskaya ul.
C-3
Pl. – Ploshchad
Kadetskaya liniya
C-2
Poltavskaya ul.
F-3
Bul. – Bulvar
Kamennoostrovsky pr.
D-1
Pushkinskaya ul.
E-3
Per. – Pereulok
Karavannaya ul.
E-3
Radishcheva ul.
E-2/E-3
Kan. – Kanal
Kazanskaya ul.
D-3
Razyezzhaya ul.
E-3
Nab. – Naberezhnaya
Kirochnaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.
C-3,4/D-3
Bol. – Bolshaya
Kolokolnaya ul.
E-3
Robespyera nab.
E-2
Mal. – Malaya
72 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.
Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 20:00. Admission free.
Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.
Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
August - September 2014
73
Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU
Aeroexpress Trains
Modern Art Centres Moscow Multimedia Art Museum (MMAM) QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA) QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission from 150Rbl.
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
74 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Ivan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com