St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Oct/Nov 2014

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg October - November 2014

Mellow Yellow Autumn beyond the city limits More than 10 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com N°97

Fine dining and great view Discover the world of Buddha-Bar

Contents Where to eat E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

In the News

5

Arrival & Getting Around

6

City Basics

8

Language

9

Culture & Events 10

Restaurants in hotels

28 42

Nightlife

45

What to see

48 The Essentials 48 Hermitage 49 St. Petersburg’s historical outskirts 52 Old Soviet Tours 54

Where to stay 55 Interview with concierge

56

Shopping

58 58

Concerts and festivals 10 Russian rock 16 Live music clubs 18 Exhibitions 20

The Expat Experience

Features

Maps & Index

Russian souvenirs

Expat & Business 60 60

City map St. Petersburg theatre life 22 Street index Krestovsky and Yelagin Islands 24 Metro map Historic dining 35 Konyushennaya area 43 Moscow

62 64 67 65

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October - November 2014

3

Foreword

In the News

Across the meadows whirling blow The yellow leaves of fall; No verdure in the woodlands now, The dark green pine is all.

Beneath the boulder’s hanging crest, No more on beds of flowers The ploughboy seeks his midday rest From hot laborious hours.

Sadly the wild wood creatures go To hidden coverts deep; The moon is dim; the meadows glow In silver mist asleep.

The words from this poem were penned by one of the greatest Russian writers of all time, Mikhail Lermontov, and are dedicated to autumn, the most beautiful yet the most underrated season in St. Petersburg. It’s during the crispy autumn days so full of cool sunshine, high blue skies and changing leaves that St. Petersburg is at its best. And what better way to immerse yourself in the kaleidoscope of autumn colors than by exploring St. Petersburg’s imperial suburbs?

While the temperatures outside are quickly cooling, St. Petersburg’s cultural scene is heating up: theaters and concert halls are kicking off the season with fascinating programs and a never-ending list of premiers. Going to the theater during your stay in St. Petersburg is an absolute must so turn to our special theater feature (pages 22-23) to see what’s on. If getting your leather biker coat and Dr. Martens out is how you prefer spending your time, then going to one of the rock concerts (check pages 16-17) in the capital of Russia’s rock scene is sure to be a truly head-banging experience.

So, regardless of what you enjoy, the Northern Capital always has loads of treats in store for its visitors. Enjoy reading and don’t forget to share your impressions with us at www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket!

Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg In Your E S Pocket S E N TI A L founded and published Your Pocket.

C I TbyYOOO G Krasnaya U I D E Shapka/In S Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Anna Kohno, research.spb@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov, peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com Contributors Maria Stambler Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 97, 01.10.2014, 90,000 copies.

For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story Bolsheokhtinsky Bridge. Officially opened in 1911, and originally named the Peter the Great Bridge, this 9,000-tonne structure spans the Neva between the Sinopskaya and Sverdlovskaya embankments to the east of the city centre.

Happy Unity Day

Petrovskaya Aquatoria

November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day!

September is traditionally associated with education and knowledge so what better time to hold the grand opening of the historical theatrical scale model “Petrovskaya Aquatoria”? This new unique exhibition is dedicated to the history of the Nothern capital and the creation of the Russian fleet and is presented in the form of a big layout of St. Petersburg in the 18th century, showing the reconstruction of the city’s most significant sights and its suburbs. As the most beautiful parts of St. Petersburg are surrounded by water, there is a water filled space, which imitates the water area of the city. Everyday guests are welcome to come to the Admiral shopping center where “Petrovskaya Aquatoria” is located. www.peteraqua.ru

Le Baron opening Two good friends Andre and Lionel from Paris and their loyal team of artists, musicians, designers, fashionistas and travelers quickly tired of the predictable electronica scene that so captivated Europe at the start of the new millennium. So in 2004 they decided to throw their own eccentric live-show parties called La Johnson. Very soon these parties became immensely popular with the Parisian crowd so the parties moved to a larger and more permanent venue which came to be known as Le Baron, where the musical mix ranged from Greg Boust to Francoise Hardy to Joy Division to The Beatles and the likes of Scarlett Johansson and Leo DiCaprio were among the guests. Now it’s time to export the fun and madness so get ready, Le Baron is coming to St. Petersburg this November! www.facebook.com/ lebaronstpete

RUSSIA

LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What happens when you get the founders of Buddha-Bar and Il Lago dei Cigni, interior designs from the famous American company Tihany and the Chinese words for ‘phoenix’? The answer is the most anticipated Chinese restaurant, which will completely change your understanding about this Oriental cuisine – Tse Fung! A completely new type of Chinese eatery, this European project has finally made its way to the Northern capital becoming the first such experiment of the creators of Buddha-Bar and the first Russian experience for creative chef Chris Rusaban who’s spent the last 17 years working for the best Chinese restaurants in the Philippines, UAE and Saudi Arabia.

Diaghilev P.S.

About IYP ESTONIA LATVIA

Tse Fung IN the city

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 90 000 экз. No97.

01.10.2014

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This year is the UK-Russia Year of Culture so to celebrate this joyous event, the Alexandrinsky Theater invites everyone to the 5th International Festival of Arts “Diaghilev P.S.” (between November 19th and 29th) to see two outstanding British ballet companies Sutra (choreography by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui) and FAR (choreography by Wayne McGregor).

The ballet Sutra involves the participation 17 Chinese monks who bring Kung Fu techniques into the heart of the choreography, which is then combined it with an extravagant set design by the outstanding modern sculptor Antony Gormley. Wayne McGregor’s choreography has been described as the “higher mathematics” of modern choreography, bringing to it the latest scientific advances in the realm of the human body’s bio-rhythms. Additionally, the “ANATOMY OF DANCE” conference and performances by the Perm Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet will also take place. www.diaghilev-ps.ru October - November 2014

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Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave.

The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.

Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.

The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi.

Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.

The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.

Arriving & Getting Around The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy.

In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly.

Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for the ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure!

Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes).

Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station.

If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination.

Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations.

There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi.

Read more online: www.inyourpocket.com/ russia/st-petersburg/arriving 6

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky.

There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need.

Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.

Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver.

St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting.

Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.

The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you.

When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. nyt.ru October - November 2014

7

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand Do you speak English?

Help!

I don't want

02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and (+7) 812 303 05 55.

The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

pocket dictionary: Net Slov!

No words! As you wander around the many wondrous buildings or through the treasure-filled halls of the Hermitage, you may find yourself lost for words. If someone says to you, “Shto vy dumaete?”(what do you think?), a good reply is “U menya net slov, odni emotsi” (I have no words, only emotions). We think this phrase will come in handy at any time, in a museum, as you wander around the city or even if you find yourself on a crowded metro train at peak hour!

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.

If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.

The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

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11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

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alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

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P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?

Pomogitye!

Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno?

Do you have...?

U vas est…?

I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit?

Good Khorosho Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When?

Kogda?

What time is it? Katory chas?

Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!

Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Хорошо Сегодня Завтра Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Который час? Конечно С праздником! Пароль

The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sport, entertainment and much else that is of interest to both residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital.

Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert commentary on the country’s changing political and economic landscape and provides valuable insight into the issues that frequently grab the world’s attention. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants and business centers citywide, as well as at important international events.

October - November 2014

9

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia!

After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night you choose.

theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.

Imperial Hermitage Theatre QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru.

Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.

Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru.

Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.

State Theatre of Musical Comedy QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com.

october events 03.10 Friday 20:00 Sophie Ellis-Bextor A diva in the truest sense of the word, Sophie Ellis-Bextor is coming to the Northern capital on October 3rd to bring you a colorful mix of pop rock, alt rock, nu disco and synth pop that will make you dance and groove like there’s no tomorrow to hits like “Groovejet (If This Ain’t Love)”, “Murder on the Dance floor” and “Take Me Home”. This lovely Brit never tires of experimenting so in case you’ve already seen her, you can be sure that you can always expect something new from the artist who once even overtook Madonna in the British and European charts!QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.sophieellisbextor.net. Tickets 800 4,000Rbl.

concert halls and clubs Club A2 QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm.

Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.

Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.

Jazz Philharmonic Hall QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

JFC Jazz Club QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru.

Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru.

Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru.

Small Philharmonic Hall QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.

Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru.

Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.

10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

05.10 Sunday Temptation It’s ok to give in to temptation here and there…so save the date for October 5th, when St. Petersburg’s dance theater “Temptation” will be throwing a huge party in honor of its 5th birthday at the Ice Palace. Expect lots of razzle-dazzle, fantastic lighting elements and unforgettable emotions from the various performances - each one unique and so different from the one before - filled with energy, drive, passion and a declaration of love via the incredible plasticity of the human body. The culmination of the evening will be a unique performance under the rain, where streams of water will be poured over the dancers.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 921 770 00 72, www.iskushenie.su. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.

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17.10 Friday Celebration of Romance Now and again all of us need a little romance in our lives.

So what better way to fill our souls with love and passion than with a fine dose of romance music performed by some of the most acclaimed Russian musical theater performers? Swooning voices will fill Oktyabrsky Big Concert Hall to bring the 17th edition of the by now annual and beloved “Celebration of Romance - the St. Petersburg Autumn” gala concert to the Northern Capital’s audience.

People’s artists of the Russian Federation Yuriy Laptev and Larisa Lusta, together with a great many merited artists, will be accompanied by Yuriy Krylov’s masterful baton to grant the soul what it so yearns on a gloomy autumn day - the finest of Russian romance music! Each melody, each musical note is meant to inspire and give the gift of sonic pure pleasure.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 571 69 52, www.kovzel.ru. Tickets 400 - 1,600Rbl. 18.10 Saturday 20:00 Parov Stelar The creation of Austrian musician and producer Marcus Füreder, Parov Stellar Band, combines jazz, soul and pop in a live set up that includes a driving rhythm section and horns. Having gained experience DJing in the late 90s, Füreder later gained success producing under his own name, and since 2005 has pulled the strings at the centre of his own live group, featuring vocals from Cleo Panther.

With a tighter sound than ever, the band bring their raw energy to St. Petersburg on the back of new release, ‘Clap Your Hands - EP’.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.parovstelar. com. Tickets 1,300 - 3,800Rbl.

24.10 Friday 20:00 Lenny Kravitz After the release of lead single ‘Chamber’ from Lenny Kravitz’s forthcoming tenth studio album ‘Strut’ fans will be eager to see the man himself in action in St. Petersbur.

As if writing, producing, arranging and playing all the instruments on his records wasn’t enough, Kravitz is an unforgettable performer, winning the Grammy for Best Male Rock Vocal Performance for a record four years in a row and also appears in the hugely successful Hunger Games film series.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, www.lennykravitz. com. Tickets 1,800 - 4,500Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

JULIET AND ROMEO

19.11 Wednesday - 21.11 Friday Watching a live musical in a theatre but in 3D might seem like a unrealistic idea, but the Polish director Janusz Josefowicz has made it a reality. In a flash of inspiration he tried what no one had tried before, to combine a live musical with a state of the art 3D background, giving the impression that the performers are truly immersed in the world around them. The world premiere of a 3D musical like this was the hugely popular ‘Pola Negri’ in Josefowicz’s hometown of Warsaw and on the back of this the new ‘Juliet and Romeo’ musical will come to St. Petersburg in November. The complex process requires 20 metres of space behind the stage background to project the imagery, and given that the whole thing is backlit, the performers cast no shadow on the backdrop, furthering the illusion of reality. Teased with breathtaking graphics from the superb ‘Pola Negri’ and sneak previews of ‘Juliet and Romeo’, viewers can undoubtedly expect a mesmerising dramatic experience surrounded and immersed by the show’s dazzling graphics, thunderous sound and sheer energy in what is a chance to catch a grass roots performance of this truly unique and astonishing new theatrical concept.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 994 99 09, www.jumeo.ru.

You can buy tickets for many events at www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru October - November 2014

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Culture & Events 27.10 Monday 20:00 The Neighbourhood The new American band on the world indie rock scene, The Neighbourhood, have injected their catchy single ‘Sweater Weather’ into general consciousness from the much anticipated debut album ‘I Love You.’ released in April 2013, on the cusp of a rising trajectory from their two previous EPs. The band’s polished sound has seen them touring worldwide on the back of the album’s success, and after receiving much love from the Peterburzhtsy on their first visit the band can expect an enthusiastic welcome back when they return to A2 club.

QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.thenbhd.com. Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl.

Culture & Events NOVEMber events 04.11 Tuesday 19:00 Ruki Vverkh The legendary Russian pop group Ruki Vverkh! have attracted the whole nation’s attention with their constant run of big hits since 1996, and will send the crowd wild with a performance celebrating their 18th birthday at Ledovy Dvorets.

Regardless of age, the group’s big tunes appeal to those of all backgrounds, and the unmissable forthcoming performance will be sure to include all favourites, old and new. Touring all over the world, performing as many as twenty concerts a month or more, and recording new material, this will surely be a popular highlight on their home turf.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.rukivverh.ru. Tickets 1,100 - 2,200Rbl. 04.11 Tuesday 20:00 GusGus

28.10 Tuesday Bollywood Express The bright star studded show ‘Bollywood Express’ will make its first long anticipated appearance in Russia on 28 October. Dazzling colours, costumes and dancing make this a breathtaking spectacle which has enjoyed enormous popularity in France, originally written by an Indian journalist living in Paris. A tale of love where a naive young French journalist is greeted in Mumbai on her first visit to India by a local man keen to show the vibrancy of real Indian culture, the show’s constant momentum will leave your heart racing.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www.ohproekt.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

One of the three great pillars of Icelandic music, along with Björk and Sigur Rós, GusGus have released eight studio albums since their formation in 1995, and are currently promoting their new album ‘Mexico’. The rolling roster of those involved with the group include musicians, producers, film makers and performers, and the band even kick started the career of the singer Emiliana Torrini. They have remixed the likes of Björk, Sigur Rós, Depeche Mode and Moloko, and their current album promises to combine all their diverse influences from synthpop to trance.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.gusgus.com. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.

09.11 Sunday 19:00 Elton John Perhaps best to simply point at the man’s title as a Knight of the Realm, nothing less than several pages of countless accolades could do the six time Grammy award winner Sir Elton John justice, and his return to St. Petersburg at Ledovy Dvorets will be met with as much enthusiasm as anywhere. With 40 albums to his name, this ‘Follow the Yellow Brick Road’ tour celebrates one of the best of them, 1973’s magnificent ‘Goodbye Yellow Brick Road’, after whose release the man became the legendary Elton John we know and love today.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, www.eltonjohn.com. Tickets 1,800 - 15,000Rbl. 09.11 Sunday 20:00 One Republic Soaring to stardom from humble beginnings on MySpace, OneRepbulic took the musical world by storm with the single ‘Apologize’, remixed by Timbaland, reaching number one in sixteen countries and earning a Grammy nomination. Following up their platinum first album ‘Dreaming Out Loud’ in 2007 with 2009’s ‘Waking Up’, the band returned from a three and a half year hiatus to produce ‘Native’ in 2013, sparking a huge worldwide tour which brings them to St. Petersburg.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. onerepublic.com. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl.

06.11 Thursday - 09.11 Sunday Crazy Horse The legendary Paris cabaret is coming back to St. Petersburg for a special four-day engagement. A special programme, Forever Crazy, has been created specifically for the St. Petersburg audience.

Since its founding in 1951, this symbol of Paris has been attended by more than six million people. The Crazy Horse always brings to the stage fantastic costumes scantily clad over beautiful bodies, choreographed dances, modern design. The ten numbers choreographed specially for this engagement promise to tantalise and titillate.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www.lecrazyhorseparis.com. Tickets 1,800 - 7,500Rbl.

18.11 Tuesday 19:00 Nino Katamadze From a platform of great domestic popularity in Georgia, Nino Katamadze has become a real star of jazz further afield, and will bring her ensemble ‘The Insight’ and own unique heart warming voice to the northern capital. Typically effortlessly combining traditional jazz with the colour of her own Georgian culture, Katamadze will even team up with a real orchestra under the baton of Nikoloz Rachveli as a special treat for her St Petresburg fans, making this a special performance not to be missed.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.nino-katamadze.com.

Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.

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19.11 Wednesday 19:00 Sarah Brightman You would be hard pushed to list the achievements of English classical crossover soprano Sarah Brightman, but pointing to her inspirational roles in the Andrew Lloyd Webber musicals ‘Cats’ and ‘The Phantom of the Opera’ and that she has sold over 30 million records to become the best selling soprano of all time wouldn’t be a bad start. From winning the Grammy award for Best New Classical Artist in 1986, Brightman has received 180 Gold and Platinum awards in over 40 countries worldwide, and her latest album Dreamcatcher is hailed as her strongest yet.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sarahbrightman.com.

Tickets 1,200 - 12,000Rbl.

Cirque Éloize

18.10 Saturday - 25.10 Saturday Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are eagerly awaiting – notwithstanding Russia’s own mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show.

This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cutting-edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has in dozens of cities around the world. October brings just eight St. Petersburg dates – book early! QA-1, SK Sibur Arena, Futbolnaya alley 8, MKrestovsky Ostrov, www.cds.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. October - November 2014

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Culture & Events cinema If you are looking for a night at the movies without having to play some sophisticated form of charades to work out what’s going on - we have good news for you.

There are now movie cinemas in St. Petersburg that show movies in English or their original language. If you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t go past the Angleterre which now shows all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.

Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru.

Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.

Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.

Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru.

19.11 Wednesday 20:00 Roxette Fans of the Swedish duo, Roxette, will have been thrilled to hear that after the 25th anniversary of the group’s first US No. 1 hit, ‘The Look’, the band announced a worldwide tour to start in Russia in October. Having sold a staggering 60 million records worldwide, racking up big hits and gold and platinum awards in countries all over the world, St. Petersburg’s Ledovy Dvorets is privileged indeed to kick off what promises to be a hugely popular tour, and fans can only keep their fingers crossed for a new album in the pipeline.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, www.roxette.se.

Tickets 1,000 - 4,500Rbl.

Culture & Events 21.11 Friday 19:00 Ken Hensley ex-URIAH HEEP The legendary founder and songwriter of the British band Uriah Heep, Ken Hensley, will bring the band’s greatest hits to this classic 1920s concert hall. Well known as one of the big four seminal hard rock bands from the 70s, along with Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple and Black Sabbath, Uriah Heep have sold an impressive 40 million albums worldwide. The band’s cult following continues today and Hensley continues to tour worldwide.QGorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo), pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.ken-hensley.com. Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

21.11 Friday Rhythm of the Dance This Irish dance group’s name, Rhythm of the Dance, truly reflects their highly acclaimed act - the thunderous but perfected tapping of shoes in their take on traditional Irish folk dancing, will keep a whole hall rapt with attention. Nominated by IQ magazine as ‘Best Dance Show’ the group even go beyond their colourful energetic dance routines and perform live music on stage over two hours of unmissable action. Combining traditional values of Celtic dance with new stage technology, the company perform over 200 shows a year and might leave you so inspired as to tap dance all the way home.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www. rhythmofthedance.com. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events

Russian rock Russia’s love of real rock music shows no sign of letting up soon, especially not in the cultural capital. Legendary big players in the game like Kalinov Most, Piknik, Bi-2, Chizh & Co and Naiv keep returning for sellout tour after sellout tour and names like Neschastny Sluchay and Surganova & Orchestra keep the genre constantly refreshed. What seems like something of a takeover of the city’s great music venues tempts you with more than enough choice for a night of rock music to remember.

05.10 Sunday 20:00 Auktsyon One of the most interesting acts of Russia’s rock scene and St. Petersburg’s finest, Auktsyon, will deliver a whole new show to its hometown crowd. For more than 20 years, Oleg Garkusha and co. have been creating a magical aura with music that transcends all levels of the subconscious and poetry that every true fan knows by heart. The band believes in the “here and now” so it is impossible to predict how a particular concert will turn out - happy or sad, philosophical or punky.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.auktyon.ru. Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl. 05.10 Sunday 20:00 Kalinov Most To be often hailed as the first Russian folk rock band is no mean feat for the hugely popular group Kalinov Most. Founded in 1984 in Novosibirsk by Dmitry Revyakin, the group is heavily influenced by traditional Russian folk music, and the band’s name itself refers to a bridge between the living and the dead from Russian folklore and has now taken a mythological significance of its own due to the group’s nationwide acclaim. The gig at A2 celebrates Revyakin’s 50th birthday, and will include a plethora of new songs from a king of Russian folk music.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. kalinovmost.ru. Tickets 700 - 1,500Rbl.

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11.10 Saturday 19:00 Piknik Despite the concert’s epigraph of “Being a stranger everywhere, forever a stranger in the world...” taken from a song from the new album ‘Chuzhestranets’ released this year, the infamous Russian rock band Piknik are certainly no strangers in St. Petersburg. Founded back in 1978 by Edmund Shklyarsky, the band have moved through genres like original Russian, progressive and jazz rock. Promoting new material from the album which recently appeared at the top of the Russian iTunes rock chart, the band will also play favourite hits from their 36 year history.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.piknik.info. Tickets 1,300 - 4,000Rbl. 23.10 Thursday 19:00 Chizh & Co The title of Rock Fuzz magazine’s ‘Band of the Year’ in 1997 is a testament to the Russian rock group Chizh & Co’s enduring popularity with those from all walks of life over its 20 year history.

Founder Sergey Chigrakov has succeed in taking famously American blues music and infusing it with in an unmistakably Russian soul, and comments that he tries to create even a domestic type of blues, whose popularity will make for a packed out Okyabrsky hall.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.chizh.net.

Tickets 1,300 - 5,000Rbl. 26.10 Sunday 20:00 Smyslovye Gallyutsinatsii Save the date for October 26th as this will be a very special jubilee concert for a very special Russian rock band! This year, Smyslovye Gallyutsinatsii are celebrating 25 years together on a creative path that has taken the band through tough yet highly productive musical stages. Blending elements of old school rock with the new wave of Russian rock that emerged as the Soviet Union was beginning to collapse, they have absorbed the best of classic elements as well as the progressive tendencies of contemporary music.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

08.11 Saturday 19:00 Naiv As full of energy as they were 25 yeas ago when founded by two Russian army recruits, the fathers of Russian punk celebrate this landmark with a grand reunion tour sending the crowd as crazy as ever. The Petersburg fanbase will be thrilled by all the band’s classic hits as well as treated to early airings of new songs. If that wasn’t enough, the show will be decked out with special effects and stage design specially for this sell out gig.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. naive.ru. Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl. 14.11 Friday 19:00 Bi-2 Bi-2 can proudly proclaim itself one the best loved rock bands in the whole of Russia and can boast the ‘Best rock project’ award from Russian MTV and ‘Best rock group’ from the national awards, ‘Muz TV’.

The band are promoting their nineteenth studio album ‘#16plyus’, set for release in the Autumn, including a collaboration with Smyslovye Gallyutsinatsii and more as yet unannounced. Continuing to surprise and amaze their reams of fans throughout Russia, be sure to catch this exclusive chance to hear the new material before the album’s highly anticipated release.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.rukivverh.ru. Tickets 1,100 - 2,800Rbl. 14.11 Friday 20:00 Bravo When the weather starts turning cold and grey on the streets of St. Petersburg only Moscow’s stilyagi from Bravo can let in some blast from the past sunshine. A band with quite a history, Bravo has been delivering its own unique twist of rock ‘n’ roll and good old 80’s music for more than 30 years now. Logically, the band’s audience should have aged with the band itself but this is not so with Bravo!

Nowadays, the band’s concerts are visited by the children of those people who did the twist at illegal discos in the mid 1980’s.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.bravogroup.ru. Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl.

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15.11 Saturday 20:00 Neschastny Sluchay Despite the group’s name translating as ‘Unfortunate Accident’, it is certainly no accident that the Russian alternative rock band have achieved such acclaim nationwide. As well as vast domestic popularity the group has stretched their tours to Finland, Spain, Germany, Czechoslovakia, the UK and USA. Formed in 1983 by the two Moscow State University students Aleksey Kortnev and Valdis Pelsh, the group has since released thirteen albums and brings thirty years worth of well loved music to A2 in St. Petersburg.

QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.ns.ru. Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl. 16.11 Sunday 20:00 Surganova & Orchestra An array of talented musicians hopping nimbly between electronic and acoustic instruments earned Surganova & Orchestra a 2004 nomination for best live band and the victory of the prestigious FUZZ magazine’s song of the year award added to the success of over 100,000 sales of their first album, ‘Neuzheli ne ya’. Blurring the lines between classical and rock, it is indeed Surganova’s alter ego the violin which is most often called for at gigs. The new album ‘Igra v Klassiki’ (translation: Hopscotch) reflects this genre straddling and offers more genuinely original compositions.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.surganova.su. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. 30.11 Sunday 20:00 Tarakany!

Tarakany! is the word for cockroaches in Russian but it is also the name of one of Russia’s most prominent and beloved punk bands headed by the one and only Dmitriy “Sid” Spirin. Though a band with a lengthy history, Tarakany! have always stayed true to themselves and that means a firm, recognizable sound, energetic performances and a down to earth kind of cool that makes people from all sorts of layers of society - students, journalists, freaks and even Cannes nominees - keep coming back for more positive energy and vibes!QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.tarakany.ru. Tickets 700 - 1,500Rbl. October - November 2014

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Culture & Events Live music clubs Russia’s cultural capital is truly buzzing with live music.

Aside from the world famous Mariisnky Theatre, the city’s contemporary music venues more than hold their own with other main European cities. Whether it’s pop, rock, hip hop or jazz you want to see, there is something for everyone, from the huge capacities and sound systems of Cosmonavt and Aurora to the quiet jazz bars dotted around the city. St. Petersburg is firmly on the map for international music tours, so be sure to catch some world famous acts in an unforgettable venue.

A2 It’s no wonder that A2 claim to be the biggest concert venue in St. Petersburg, just take a quick look at their past line-ups. From living legends such a Chuck Berry, to contemporary bands such as Fall Out Boy, The Smashing Pumpkins and The National, if there is one thing A2 do not lack, it’s quality music! It’s hard to believe the venue has only been around for 2 years given how quickly it has made a name for itself. With no fewer than 10 bars you won’t find yourself struggling to buy a drink here. Despite having 2 concert halls, holding as many as 5,000 people and 1,500 people, don’t wait around for a ticket, they sell out fast!QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm.

Aurora concert hall This huge arena attracts the biggest DJs from Russia and abroad, offering space for 2000 people and views of the cruiser Aurora moored on the Neva from its riverside location near Ploshchad Lenina metro station. The circular hall opens up onto several levels providing space for 600 seated diners and a 150 strong VIP area. The venue also offers a smaller hall on the second floor with its own bar and wifi, a restaurant of American and European cuisine and a wide selection of beers. State of the art lighting and sound systems establish this as a big deal on the live music scene in the city. Be sure to check the place out online for upcoming gigs.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.

Culture & Events five minutes from Tekhnologichesky Institut metro. The hall stretches back from the stage with space for 1500 people and is flanked by bars on both sides, and a large mezzanine upper level offers VIP seats and another bar.

The double bar on the main floor saves you from heavy queuing and offers reasonably priced drinks, and a couple of clouded stairwells serve as a smoking area. A quality sound and lighting system means the energy really picks up as the hall fills, underlining it as one of the city’s principal live music venues. The club is also available to hire for private functions.QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.

Jazz Philharmonic Hall As a reviewer one has to admit that we are often guilty of throwing around the words ‘Unique’ and ‘Original’. Despite this, it cannot be denied that the Jazz Philharmonic truly is one of a kind, distinct to St. Petersburg in both its genre of music and its atmosphere. The red lamplit tables create a surreal setting as the musicians on stage wish you away into the world of jazz. The intimate nature of the venue allows the audience to connect with performers in a way that larger venues simply could never achieve. Romantic and also full of life, if you feel the urge to dance don’t resist the temptation - there’s more than enough room! To top it off, there’s also delicious cocktails, coffee and deserts available to order at a moments notice.QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

JFC Jazz Club

Zal Ozhidaniya The owners of Zal Ozhidaniya (the name is translated as “Waiting Room”) have really taken the idea of a concert venue and made it their own. Priding themselves on their all-embracing attitude towards music, fans of rock, pop, rap and indie will all find themselves at home here.

We are not sure which is more diverse; the international artists that perform here night after night, or the various music lovers that follow them in. In any case, this club is all about variety. The club is ideally located, situated centrally between stations Baltiskaya and Frunzenskaya and there’s also a convenient car park for the drivers amongst you. With a chill-out room, VIP area and plenty of comfy sofas, don’t be afraid to enjoy a moment of your feet - trust us, the way the Russians party, you’ll need one!QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.

The low lit assorted tables and chairs in front of a low stage watched over by the jazz legends on the wall immediately underline JFC as the real deal. The stage has a full kit, baby grand and decent sound and lighting. The bar menu, although innovatively displayed over a CD case, suffers from this compact format, where only a few cocktails accompany few beers and spirits. The ambience is that of a jazz bar that doesn’t try too hard, but effortlessly succeeds in shrouding you in a cool jazz vibe. At full stretch, the bar can accommodate up to a hundred audience members varying from local jazz fanatics to opportunist tourists. Tickets on the door will offer standing room, or a more expensive table, for a gig that could range from jazz standards to experimental funk from one night to the next.QE-2, Shpalernaya ul.

33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www. jfc-club.spb.ru.

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club Under the bare brick arches of an intimate bar is a jumble of wooden tables and chairs directed towards a small stage.

The blues fans of St. Petersburg gather every night to listen to energetic performers who may even roam through the crowd and onto tables. There is a quiet buzz to this innocuous bar, frequented by true blues lovers and tourists alike, where a big blue musical heart beats through the cosy basement. A reasonably priced drinks menu is available, including a strong array of spirits and cocktails to sip on to complete the experience. With its bare vintage brick and wooden aesthetic and posters nodding to the blues legends, the atmosphere is laid back but flared into life by the camaraderie of enthusiastic musicians and audience alike.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.

Club Cosmonavt Cosmonavt’s cavernous hall and great stage make it a popular destination for Russian and international big names, like Bristol’s Bonobo and drum and bass DJ Benny Page. The club is situated on Moskovsky prospekt, only 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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restaurants

The idea of combining some of the city’s great cuisine and the popularity of live jazz has thankfully been nailed here in St Petersburg. At 48 chairs and Port Artur you can eat your fill of delectable dishes from the city’s finest chefs and then sit back and digest to the jazz accompaniment of St Petersburg’s top musicians.

48 chairs An elegant but cosy venue whose walls are crammed with black and white photos, this is a great place to have a sumptuous meal and catch a bit of quality live jazz. Head chef Vasily Soldatov’s improvisation in the kitchen matches that of the city’s top jazz musicians who play nightly at 48 Chairs, taking inspiration from so many of the world’s cuisines and combining them in his own key signature. The drinks menu contains an impressive selection of wines to accompany the unique cooking and a long list of liqueurs, aperitifs and digestifs will complete the jazz bar experience.

The vibrant cooking makes for an unforgettable meal and you’ll be tempted to work your way through the drinks list whilst reclining to some smooth blues to become that last lingering guest for whom the restaurant promises to stay open.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 77 75, www.48chairs.com.

Port Artur Port Artur offers you the wonderful opportunity to enjoy a lovely meal and listen to some smooth jazz music at the same time (madness…we know!) No compromises are made on the quality of either. The restaurant itself is perfectly proportioned, orientated around a fashionable bar that makes a very classy centrepiece. With such a wide variety of dishes to select, the biggest issue we faced was narrowing down our choices! Nonetheless, the staff’s refined knowledge proved it’s value and the end result was simply delightful. To guarantee yourself live music try and turn up at the weekend, though it has to be said that even without music, the atmosphere, bar and food will do anything but disappoint.QE-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul.

12/17, MZnenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 953 32 50, www.portartur-spb.ru.

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Culture & Events Manifesta 10 Manifesta is arguably the most prestigious and important art event in Europe and has been taking place on a biennial basis for the past 20 years now. It’s principle vision was to provide a platform for cultural exchange across Europe, especially in the aftermath of the Cold War. Twenty years after the first Manifesta in 1996, over one million people have participated in the events and enjoyed programs in which artists, curators and young professionals from forty countries have presented themselves and their work. Many of Europe’s finest cities have played host to this esteemed event, including Rotterdam, Luxembourg, Ljublana and Frankfurt, however we can say with pride that this year St. Petersburg has the honour of hosting the 10th Manifesta, running until October 31st 2014.

The main events will be held in the stunning location of the Palace Square, split with two thirds of the events held at the General staff building and one third held at the Winter Palace (the Hermitage). Despite falling under the general title ‘contemporary art’, the range of events available for public viewing are incredibly diverse and wide-ranging. Consequently, in this feature we have tried our best to identify some of the best picks from Manifesta, the events that are truly unmissable. But to really make the most of the this magnificent event, try and leave yourself a day and immerse yourself in as much as you can, as there will be countless interesting and intriguing artists, talks and exhibitions here merely at the touch of your fingertips! QСheck out the full program at www. manifesta10.org Top tips 1. Every day of the Biennial, free Open tours will take place in the General staff building at 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

2. Every last wednesday of the month, starting from July, Manifesta will run a lively night show, displaying independent artists and musicians, free with a valid Hermitage ticket.

3. Every weekend Manifesta 10 conducts free tours of the General staff building from 10:30 for families with children.

4. If you want a break from Palace square, head to Vitebsky station, another key, vibrant venue of Manifesta 10, the first train station in Russia to connect east and west.

5. Manifesta have an handy app, available to download for free in the app store. Here is the link, enjoy! www.

Manifesta10.org/en/app/ 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events Exhibitions through 03.11 Monday Valentin Sidorov. My calm homeland This exhibition introduces the work of Valentin Sidorov, winner of the State Prize of the USSR in 1984. The exhibition will be on display from the 3rd of September until October 2014. Born in 1928 Sidorov is an acting member of the Russian Academy of Arts and Chairman of the Union of Artists of Russia. The exposition will display 90 of his most creative works from 1950 to 2000. He is considered the master of the “Spiritualised landscape”, with his art often pertaining to nature, it’s eternal cycle and how it is connected to the people of the Russian countryside. Epitomising the national character of the USSR Sidorov’s work unsurprisingly addresses the motherland, analysing the so-called Russian soul.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

through 09.11 Sunday Nikolai Yevgrafov In honor of the 110th birthday of Nikolai Ivanovich Yevgrafov (1904-1941) - a St. Petersburg native and a talented painter, graphic artist and theater artist - the Museum of History of St. Petersburg is putting a collection of his works on exhibition between September 8th and November 9th. A student of the prominent Soviet avant-garde artist Pavel Filonov, Yevgrafov was part of the “Masters of Analytical Art” group, which played a very important role in Leningrad’s art scene in the mid 1920s. Yevgrafov lived during the most dramatic and turbulent times of Russian history - the 1917 Revolution and the Civil War- and all this left an imprint in the artist’s mind, who died on the frontline in 1941.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed.

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through 10.11 Monday Beyond figurativism in the Russian art of the second half of the 20th century The exhibition is devoted to the works of Ely Belyutin and his followers. The 60s and 70s was a period in Soviet art when those who did not want to conform to the norms of the Academy of Art embarked on an independent path to find their artistic selves. Unlike the masters of the previous decades (Malevich, Filonov, etc.) these new aspiring artists did not have the institutions backing their vision. The founder of this movement was Ely Belyutin (1925-2012) and this exhibition reveals the history his art studio “Novaya realnost” (The New Reality), his life and his creative struggle with the help of more than 70 pieces.QD-2, Russian Museum, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. through 18.11 Tuesday Together and apart – the urban Russian family in the 20th century The Russian family - an interesting way to look at the history of Russia in the 20th century through a more personal lens. “Together and apart - the urban Russian family in the 20th century” shows all the huge social and political occurrences of the century through the prism of the everyday routine of people going about their day to day lives. Families were all affected by the socio-political order of the day, the extent of urbanization, improvements in healthcare, the ideology of the ruling classes and so on.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. through 02.03 Monday Images of War This year marks the 100th anniversary of the start of the First World War. The Avantgarde museum is exhibiting 30 works by notable futurist artists, who formed an artistic group dedicated to the revival of the traditional Russian lubok (print) in the wake of a surge of patriotism against a common enemy. Visitors can view posters based on the drawings of celebrated avantgardists Kazemir Malevich, Aristarkh Lentulov, Vladimir Mayakovsky and David Burliuk. In addition, 14 lithographs

by Natalia Goncharova from the cycle “Mystical Images of War” will be displayed.QD-1, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde, ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru.

Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed and Fri. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Erarta exhibitions

This autumn, the Erarta Museum of Modern Art has a few very special exhibitions prepared for St. Petersburg’s art addicts. “Russia in Vogue” (October 16th - December 15th) is dedicated specially to 15 years of Vogue Magazine in Russia. Over more than a century long history, the pages of Vogue Magazine were graced by more than a thousand Russian faces and this exhibition will feature some of these portraits ranging from Ida Rubinstein to Mark Chagall. Also, visitors will see photo reports from fashion shoots of iconic photographers behind the iron curtain in the USSR. “Russia in Vogue” demonstrates how Russian super models conquered the world and how many legendary fashion collections were inspired by Russia and Russian culture.

The next art treat from Erarta Museum of Modern Art is the exhibition of Sergey Bondarev’s works, which will run from October 31st - November 24th.

Bondarev is famous not only as a fashion designer who believes that “fashion is not the baby sister of art, but a form of art in its own right”, but also as a talented artist who depicts the ubiquity of fashion within society - its glitz and glamour in social life in his paintings. As well as the beauty of fashion in our everyday lives, Bondarev also portrays the cult of consumption in a grotesquely ironic way.QB-3, Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.

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Features St. Petersburg Theatre life You couldn’t possibly come to Russia’s cultural capital and not see any of its vast array of theatre, music and dance, and with season openings everywhere now is the time to catch an unforgettable show at an unforgettable venue.

If you’ve heard anything about St. Petersburg, you will have heard of the famous Mariinsky Theatre (www.mariinsky. ru). Opened in 1860, it was home to premieres of works by many of the Russian greats, like Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky and Rimsky Korsakov, and now enters its 232nd season.

On the site of an Equestrian Circus which burnt down, the architect Albert Cavos designed a new opera and ballet theatre to be the largest in the world with a capacity of 1,625. Appointed as the home of the Imperial Ballet in 1886 after the Bolshoy Kamenny Theatre was deemed unsafe, the theatre was lavishly renovated and was home to many of the premieres from the master choreographer Marius Petipa. Originally named after Empress Maria Alexandrovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theatre was known as the Kirov theatre throughout most of the Soviet era, but changed to its present name in 1992, the State Academic Mariinsky Theatre. The world renowned conductor Valery Gergiev has presided over affairs there since 1988, with a stream of almost constant concerts meeting the Russian public’s high demand, and these days juggles the role with Principal Conductor of the London Symphony Orchestra making him one of the busiest and certainly best travelled conductors around today.

Those looking for a classic Mariinsky experience will jump straight to the timeless Swan Lake in the theatre’s season programme, opening on 26 September. Inspired by the ballet writing of Delibes, Tchaikovsky composed most of the ballet in just one year, using the idea of Leitmotif, famously made popular in Wagner’s operatic writing, to bring out distinctive melodies weaving the story together.

Despite the premiere in 1877 being something of a flop, the ballet’s enduring popularity means it will surely never leave the Mariinsky, and this year’s production is based on the Kirov’s own 1950 premiere of Konstantin Sergeyev’s choreography. More from the revered Tchaikovsky comes in the form of the opera Eugene Onegin, the Kirov’s own 1982 version, with helpful English subtitles to guide you through the full length of this Russian masterpiece. Alexander Gorsky’s classic 1900 choreography of the ballet Don Quixote, with music from Ludwig Minkus returns to the Mariinsky this autumn, as well as Tchaikovsky’s classic Nutcracker, with Vasily Vainonen’s 1934 choreography, and the Marius Petipa version of Giselle, with music from Adolphe Adam.

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Features In recent years, the Mariinsky has begun to colonise the surrounding area - the sleek contemporary walls of glass which peer out behind the back of the main theatre constitute the hall’s sparkling new younger brother, the Mariinsky II. The hall’s interior curves back in a horseshoe shape from the main stage with clean lines and wooden panelling, and the fantastic new acoustics and technology have been picked up on by all reviewers. The bright interior breathes elegance over a crowd enjoying a glass of pre-concert champagne and the performances themselves range from classic repertoire to more contemporary works completely at home in the setting.

The Mariinsky II proudly presents its own new version of Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin, premiered in February 2014 as a co-production with the National Centre for the Performing Arts (Beijing). A marriage of the music of the celebrated Russian composer Rodion Shchedrin and the choreographer Aleksey Ratmansky appears twice on the Mariinsky II’s new playbill, with the 2010 choreography of the ballet Anna Karenina, based on the Tolstoy novel, and the ballet The Humpbacked Horse which premiered at the Mariinsky in 2009. A production of Puccini’s Madama Butterfly, premiered at the Mariinsky in 2005, will run several performances over the winter, ranking seventh of the most performed operas worldwide. A world premiere of Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia from the director Alain Maratrat takes place on 29 October, widely regarded as the opera buffa of all ‘opere buffe’.

The new addition to the family, the Mariinsky II, ought not to overshadow the Mariinsky Concert Hall just a stone’s throw away on Ulitsa Dekabristov however - a world class chamber concert hall in its own right.

The hall as usual features high profile acts from around the world as well as the resident Mariinsky orchestra, where classic Wagner Galas and Russian favourites will be the stars of the show. Benjamin Britten’s opera A Midsummer Night’s Dream returns to the Concert Hall after its premiere there in 2011 - entering the standard repertoire soon after its premiere in 1960, it is an exponent of Britten’s very specific subtle style while not overtly dissonant. The second international organ festival returns to the Mariinsky Concert Hall from 24 - 30 October, and will showcase organ music from Bach, Liszt, Mendelssohn, even a Dave Brubeck arrangement, and many more. The modern concert hall’s impressive acoustics and state of the art organ will hopefully mean that the festival continues for years to come.

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The lavish luxury of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (www. mikhailovsky.ru) echoes the elegance of the Mariinsky, and with an admirable history from its founding in 1833, can proudly declare itself one of Russia’s most distinguished music venues. Named after Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich of Russia, the theatre was established after a decree from Tsar Nicholas I, and played host to visiting French companies until the Bolsheviks took power in 1917. In a somewhat contentious move, the Russian businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed as the Theatre’s General Director, and fortunately poured 1 billion roubles into the theatre’s refurbishment before winding up bankrupt in London in 2012. Ballets of the coming season include Swan Lake, with the choreography of Mikhail Messerer, premiered at the Mikhailovsky in 2009, and a production based on Marius Petipa’s revival of the ballet Le Corsaire, with music from Adolphe Adam. Choreographer Nacho Duato’s 2012 ballet ‘Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness’ tells the story of Johann Sebastian Bach’s life, where modern choreography is combined with baroque music from the father of counterpoint and his choreography of Prokofiev’s sensational Romeo and Juliet will take place in November. Karen Khachaturian’s children’s ballet Cipollino will no doubt be a popular Sunday hit for the younger generation and the Puccini opera Manon Lescaut will appear in late October.

The St. Petersburg Opera Company (www.spbopera. ru), although a relatively young establishment, has been met with great acclaim over its 22 seasons and is received positively on world tours. Finding a permanent home in an intimate mansion on Ulitsa Galernaya, the music is played in a divine and intimate setting of jaw dropping architecture. The first version of the mansion was built at the end of the 18th century, lavishly redesigned in 1876 and bought in 1880 by Baron Sergey Pavlovich von Dervis. October will include performances of classics like Don Giovanni, Eugene Onegin, La Bohème, Tosca and La Traviata.

Auer Music Violin and String Quartets Competition, “Silver Lire” The 5th International Festival Of Chamber Music, a celebration of the 200th anniversary of Mikhail Lermontov and the 170th of Rimsky Korsakov, a selection of jazz and a visit from the St. Petersburg Youth Orchestra.

The title of oldest Russian national theatre is one that the legendary Alexandrinsky Theatre (www.alexandrinsky.ru) can boast, established on August 30 1756, the day of Saint Alexander Nevsky. Originally named after Alexandra Fyodorovna, wife of Nikolai I, the imposing structure was designed by the popular Italian architect, Carlo Rossi, who worked for most of his life in Russia, his legacy also including the bright white Yelagin Palace and Mikhailovsky Theatre. The theatre’s performance history practically runs as an A to Z of the nation’s great actors and directors, and premieres of great works from the likes of Aleksander Griboyedov, Aleksander Ostrovsky, and Aton Chekhov have all taken place there. To add to the venue’s star studded history and graceful architecture, the 250th anniversary of the theatre in 2006 heralded the unveiling of a new renovation bringing with it 21st century technological capabilities to the historic venue.

The Tovstonogov Bolshoy Drama Theatre (www.bdt. spb.ru) on Fontanka takes its name from Georgy Tovstonogov, the theatre’s highly regarded director from 1956 to 1989, and is considered one of the finest theatres in Russia. Pioneered by Maxim Gorky, Maria Andreeva, Alexander Blok and Anatoly Lunacharsky after the 1917 revolution, the Osobaya Drammaticheskaya Truppa (Special Drama Company) debuted in 1918 with the intention of staging classics for the masses, finding its permanent home at 65 Fontanka embankment at the former Suvorin Theatre.

The dazzling white columns and glittering chandeliers mark out the Shostakovich St. Petersburg Academic Philharmonia (www.philharmonia.spb.ru) as quite a space before the music even starts, and having seen the some of the finest performers from not only Russia but all over the world since the 1840s, the venue continues to offer high class performances. A busy forthcoming programme includes chamber music, orchestral works and jazz, featuring many international acts and both of the hall’s residents, the St. Petersburg Philharmonic or Symphony Orchestras.

The coming months include The 2nd International Leopold

Taking upon its shoulders in 1944 the important burden of continuing the city’s theatre productions at a time when most companies had been evacuated, the Maly Drama Theatre (www.mdt-dodin.ru) started life humbly performing as and when it could without a permanent home.

Gradually picking up support from the public, the theatre began to gather momentum through the involvement of Lev Dodin in 1974, who served as the theatre’s chief director from 1983 and artistic director from 2002. Also going by the name ‘Théâtre de l’Europe’, tourists will be pleased to know that English subtitles are often on offer here. The theatre regularly participates and holds workshops in theatre festivals around the world, and Dodin himself has taught at St. Petersburg State Theatre Arts Academy from 1969 and holds the position of head of stage direction department.

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Feature

Features Krestovksy Island:

St. Petersburg’s best breaks Krestovsky and Yelagin islands provide a wonderful alternative to the ever-buzzing city centre - no wonder you find Russians gravitating towards them on weekends.

There’s enough activities to occupy even the most ambitious amongst you, so we’ve picked out the best bits of both islands. With places to eat, museums to ponder and parks to admire, go at your own pace, relax and enjoy.

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The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island, which appears to be cross-shaped. Others, however, suggest that on Swedish maps the Island is referred to, in Finish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst the Russians may contest the name of the Island, one thing they definitely do not contest is that there is plenty of fun to be had here! It therefore should come as no surprise that over the weekend the Petersburgers flock in their masses to Krestovsky Island.

The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the station, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk down the steps towards ulitsa Ryukhina, and if in doubt, follow the crowd! Once you approach the road you will find yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itinerary you’re looking for. By the end of this feature we hope that any individual can plan out a lovely day at Krestovky Island, just as the locals do!

One great option available to you is walking along Yuzhnaya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific destination awaiting you here, this street really captures the essence of Krestovsky Island. To find it exit the metro and turn turn left on ulitsa Ryukhina and continue walking up until Krestovsky prospekt. Turn right on Krestovsky prospekt and then keep straight until you reach a roundabout. At the roundabout continue straight and you will find yourself on Yuzhnaya doroga. Without having any end goal in mind, walk at leisure down this street and you will pass numerous bars, cafes and restaurants. Instead of picking and settling on any one place, why not consider trying out a few different ones, after all, variety is the spice of life! If you need a little inspiration, check out two of our favourite bar/clubs Vozdukh and Zimaleto. Better yet however, keep your eyes pealed for shashlik tents. These are small tents dotted all around the Island, where you can buy beer and other beverages, or classic snacks like corn on the cob. The beauty of this kind of dining, and what makes it so popular with Russians, lies in its simplicity. It’s just going back to basics; good food and good company - all out in the fresh air.

Having left the metro station, another great choice is Divo Island, the funfair ground that truly put Krestovsky island on the map. It’s impossible to miss, located no more than 20

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metres from the metro exit, just across the road. Remember that feeling as a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same kind of nostalgia awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the funfair is free and customers need only pay per ride, however it is possible to buy a pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy as many rides as you’d like at a fraction of the cost. The rides really are very diverse; there are ‘children’s rides’, ‘family rides’ and ‘extreme rides’. For our braver readers, we dare you to try out Booster or Catapult - at your own risk of course! The park is open from 12:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and 11:00 until 24:00 on weekends, but bear in mind that the more extreme rides open slightly later. A handy local tip is that the prices drop after 21.00; this may prove to be cheaper but perhaps consider the consequences of riding the roller coasters straight after dinner!

Divo Island really is a child’s dream come true, making Krestovsky Island a place for the whole family. Nonetheless, Russian couples and groups of friends alike all come out here to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy themselves in a way you might think only children can. When you’re in the park you’ll notice people skating around on roller blades or riding around on bicycles - this is a mustdo! As well as being a fun mode of transport it is also a convenient way to get around, and with so many beautiful features in the park to take in, strap on your wheels and head in any and every direction. There are so many little stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re guaranteed to come across a bench where you can eventually sit down and enjoy them along with the view!

The football fans amongst you may relish the opportunity of viewing Zenit St. Petersburg’s stadium, or what’s left of it! Formerly known as Kirov stadium, Zenit’s home is currently undergoing a complete renovation. Interestingly, to settle on a design for the stadium, a competition was set up, and following a unanimous vote, Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa won. His project has generated a lot of publicity, largely due to its intriguing name, “Spaceship”.

The refurbished, state of the art stadium will have a capacity of no fewer than 62,000 seats. The stadium is situated on the West of the Island and, hopefully, it should prove easy to find! After exiting the metro station cross the road and head left. Take the first right, Batareinaya doroga, and continue down this road until you approach a roundabout.

Head straight on at the roundabout, again along Batareinaya doroga, and in no time you’ll be able to see the stadium ahead of you.

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Features This feature has hopefully left you with plenty of food for thought, but in case you’d like one final option, exit the metro and turn right along ulitsa Ryukhina. Keep walking until you reach Yelagin Most, at which point you can turn left along naberezhnaya Martynova. Here you can take a romantic walk alongside the river, making for a splendid view. Not only are there more shashliks here, but also a number of open air bars and restaurants, making a lovely alternative to the hot, stuffy city centre. Walking straight ahead as you approach the end of naberezhnaya Martynova there is a Yaught club, displaying some of the finest yaughts St. Petersburg has to offer. Of course it is also possible to use Yelagin most to cross over onto Yelagin Island; to find out more feel free to take a read of our other feature!

Ultimately, Krestovsky Island gives you the chance to jump off the tourist trail. The Island is a great escape from the fast pace of life in the city centre and in a way allows you to relive your youth too, and let’s be honest, no one’s getting any younger! As always, save the best until last, so here’s one final piece of advice; Krestovsky Island is a truly wonderful place to simply get lost on, so use the directions merely as a guide and nothing more. Whether walking along the river, along the coast, or through the funfair, don’t worry about where you’re going, the sense fun and adventure will find you, we guarantee it!

Yelagin Island An island which is entirely parkland is the perfect place for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark of Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island lies between the Bolshaya and Srednaya Nevka; its western tip offers a view point of the Gulf of Finland and at its eastern shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards mainland St. Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station facing the park opposite, you should turn right and follow the road to the bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, following the winding pathways between the trees eventually reveals a well-kept lawn stretching towards the elegant bright white Yelagin palace peeping out from the trees.

A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths, over bridges and under the dappled light of the trees.

The 237 acres of gardens have faithfully preserved centuries old trees and special flora, and because of this some areas are indeed off limits. There are convenient cafes hiding amongst the trees, play areas for children and even the chance to take a boat or pedalo out on the island’s ponds.

The island, the smallest of the Kirov islands in the Neva’s 26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Features delta, was inhabited by fishermen before the city was even founded. It was presented to Peter the Great by Peter Shafirov in 1709, his vice chancellor, but was taken back after Shafirov faced a death sentence in 1723 for embezzlement. Previously named after a bear allegedly spotted by soldiers on the island in the 18th century, the park’s current name derives from a famously hospitable former owner of the island, Ivan Yelagin (1725-1794), who made all gardens open to the public.

The radiant Yelagin Palace stands proudly at the head of a long sweeping lawn, where two majestic white lion statues, inspired by the Medici lions in Florence, guard a perfectly symmetrical staircase to the entrance. The palace was completed in 1822 as a summer residence for Tsar Alexander I’s mother, Maria Fyodorovna. It was designed by the Italian architect Carlo Rossi, who also designed the Mikhailovsky Palace of the Russian Museum, masterfully creating the pearly white curves, columns and dome nestled among the greenery of the park. It is built on the site of a mansion designed by the architect Giacomo Quarenghi, built from 1785-1790 during the rule of Catherine the Great, as a gift to the island’s namesake, Ivan Yelagin, a close friend and ally during her time as Grand Duchess.

Retiring to his own island and Palladian Villa, Yelagin immersed himself in his study of alchemy. In later years, after complaining that she was no longer able to make day trips to other palaces, Maria Fyodorovna was given the current palace by her son, Tsar Alexander I, as a summer retreat.

The architect Carlo Rossi fastidiously redesigned every detail of the old villa, whose richly detailed neoclassical interiors were decorated by Giovanni Battista Scotti, Vasily

Demuth-Malinovsky, and Stepan Pimenov. Floral patterns, scenes from mythology and gilded carvings twirl across the elaborate ceilings and walls, dragging your eyes across every inch of intricate detail. Each room is decorated individually, with impressive exquisite marble, patterned flooring and painted ceilings which echo the Hermitage’s grand neoclassical style, albeit on a lighter and more manageable scale. The palace is sometimes known as the ‘palace of doors’, as no two of the inlaid doors are the same. The first floor of the palace is used as an exhibition space for the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art and Interiors from the 18th-20th Centuries, established in 1987. After Fyodorovna’s death in 1828 the palace was often unused, apart from Tsar Nicholas II leasing it to his prime ministers until the 1917 revolution. During the siege of Leningrad in World War II, the palace was badly damaged by shelling, but was rebuilt in the 1950s and now shows off its glamorous interior to the public.

The palace’s outbuildings, including the Guardhouse pavilion and Flag Pavilion, are scattered amongst the trees surrounding the palace. Dedicated paths will lead you around the assorted bright white structures, decorated by beds of vivid flowers. In full bloom, the colourful flora, clean white walls and pockets of dazzling water will make for some unmissable photo opportunities.

ridor is devoted to the bold and sophisticated sculptures of Mukhina herself, with background information about her life and work. TV screens run short documentaries about the glass making process, and a couple of installations and information placards explain the evolution of the fine art of glass making over the years.

It is well worth circling the island for the views across the waters of the Neva. Apart from an unfortunately noisy main road on the bank of the opposite shore on the north side of the island, you can look out across the placid waters towards other parts of the city, or indeed out to sea. Proceeding to the very western tip of the island takes you to a viewpoint at the Gulf of Finland. Here you will again find two lions flanking a platform from which to enjoy the view of the glittering Neva joining the open sea. Although marred slightly by the industrial edges of the city and the construction of Krestovsky Island’s new stadium, the quaintly dilapidated bobbing fishing boats and a haze of distant land on a bright day is well worth crossing the island for.

On the site of a monument to architects at the eastern edge of the park, you can look straight down the Bolshaya Nevka curving inland towards the rest of the city. The southern shores reveal St. Petersburg’s own marina where a modest collection of polished yachts twinkle in the sunshine before the green backdrop of Krestovsky’s equally lush parkland. You will feel pleasantly removed from the bustle of central Petersburg while enjoying the quiet natural side of the city.

To escape from the pollution and hubbub of activity in central St. Petersburg and find the city’s greener side, a visit to Yelagin is a must. Though more lavish grandeur can be found in the Hermitage, the clear elegance of Yelagin palace and its effortless harmony with its green surroundings offers a cultural element to a relaxing day trip to a charming park.

In the palace’s Orangery today resides the Glass museum.

The collection displays the work of Leningrad Glass Art Factory, operating from 1940 until 1997, founded by the influential Soviet glass sculptor Vera Mukhina. The factory produced innovative and colourful glassworks both for domestic use and also as experimental art. Around 8000 glass works are displayed in three halls in a simple and thoughtfully lit display that twinkles from every angle. A whole corst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Where to eat

Where to eat Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.

QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW

St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.

Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.

Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier.

Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar. com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Gogol It is immediately apparent in every thoughtful detail of the decor and menu that this is a labour of love. Love for the history of the city, its literary culture and fine gastronomic traditions. The literary references are subtlely done, with Gogol’s famous overcoat hanging in the entryway, a vase of quills in place of flowers in one room and a menu designed and illustrated to read like a novel. Each chapter is devoted to a different course and every item is a careful selection, elegantly executed to reflect the delicate aristocratic tastes of 19th century Russia.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 60 97, www.restaurant-gogol.ru.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAS Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www. idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW

NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€.

PAESW Olivie Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it’s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW

Asian and Indian

Koleso Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort.

Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch.

The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region’s more unusual dishes.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Cardamon This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed

by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Foodwise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€.

PTASW

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Where to eat

Where to eat friendly chefs communicate with diners using their mobiles, serving up flavorsome authentic dishes with impressive culinary style to diners rather than thrown at you, unlike other typical Teppanyaki restaurants around the world.

With tables that can sit up to eight people, this is a great place to fuel up before heading out for a night on the town.

QE-4, Ligov Shopping Center, Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 602 04 96, www.meatline2014. ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW

Chopsticks Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior has been decorated in the traditional Chinese style with the walls decorated with traditional paintings. Quiet background music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. The central location makes this one of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg.

Be prepared to take your time over the meal and expect to use chopsticks!QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/ chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTSW Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serving food from all compass points off India. The menu is extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we ordered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant Curry House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www. curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.

King Pong The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‘European’ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGSW Meat Line Don’t be put off by the bad name or terrible shopping mall location. Meat Line is the first and only Teppanyaki restaurant in St. Petersburg. It’s so different from anything else on offer in town, it’s worth the challenge to find deep within the shopping complex. Not speaking English or Russian, the 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.

For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.

PTALEGSW Tandoori Nights There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill.

QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW

Birreria Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passage shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view onto Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. This is a good place to stop of with friends to watch sport on a Friday evening, drink a few beers (with brands from all over Europe, this should keep you busy all evening) and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu offers your classic Italian favourites and is worth every rouble. Service is good an unobtrusive and the beer is enough to put anyone into a good mood, so you are bound to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www.birreria.ru. Open 12:00 02:00. €€. PASW Bruxelles If you like delicious, good European food and drink, Bruxelles should be on the top of your list. The restaurant does not provide you with the fine dinning experience but the food is delicious, reasonably priced and has fast, efficient service. The music is loud, and although some might find this off-putting, there is plenty of space for patrons and it is still comfortable to talk in small groups. The bar has a solid wine list and offers a wide variety of beers including trappist and craft beers - just the thing to wash down a fantastic meal!QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 944 03 36, www.italy-group.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€.

PASW

Next to Mariinsky theatre

Craft Bier Cafe Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. Craft serves good pub-food, but it’s beer that rules.QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW Dickens This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions.

Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW

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Beer Restaurants Bierstube With their own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 01:00. €€. PTAULSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Delicious italian and russian food!

Amazing Pastry!

St. Petersburg, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru

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Next to Mariinsky theatre

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Where to eat Gastronomic Pub Brugge The founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind of beer in a different glass! You can choose from almost 50 types of traditional Belgian beer. Belgian meals, which combine the simplicity of traditional burger cooking with the delicacy of French cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in Brussels or Antwerp. QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW

Manneken Pis Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW O’Hooligans Adjacent to the higher-class British variant, this Irish pub has a little more cheek to its business model. There are bawdy limericks painted on the low, curved ceiling and half of the menu is done in cartoons. Their flip guide to the massive selection of beers on tap comes in handy if you’re wanting to try something new but already have a set idea on what you’re in the mood for. Also at ul. Bakunina 5 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya).QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 14, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 10 40, www.ohooligans. ru. Open 12:00 until the last guest. PAESW Trappist Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment.

QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat Cafes and Coffee houses

Caucasian

Bonch Cafe The unique 1930s factory designed interior of the new Cafe Bonch adds another edge to the ever evolving collection of alternative cafes in the city. Chef-barista Irina Sharipova has chosen ‘welena’ coffee beans, enriched in the Ethipian sun to provide a sweet and fruity taste and, alongside excitingly twisted essentials, the menu offers all types of home prepared sandwiches and a constantly revolving selection of interesting soups.QE-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 931 356 34 01, www.coffeebonch.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTAGSW

Baklazhan The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW

Cafe Singer In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian and European dishes like borsch and pelmeni. The staff all speak English very well. In the morning they serve a good breakfast. Note the daily specials - every day they cook something new with seasonal ingredients.

Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23, www.singercafe.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW Green Room This large loft room in the middle of the hip Etagi art centre makes a good place for a post-exhibit cup of tea or glass of beer, depending on the time of day. The food on offer is basic fare aimed at students such as chicken soups and dumplings and the tables are generally always filled with artistic types pouring their last roubles into a bowl of porridge.QE-3, Loft project ETAGI (3rd floor), Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 80 03, www. loftprojectetagi.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 until last guest. €. TGSW Mitte cafe The windows, the sills of which also serve as seats, are flung wide open and the smell of coffee wafts out into the street.

The décor simple yet effective; it’s the people who make this place. They have a small but excellent collection of cakes, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Come back in the evening for a glass of wine and antipasti and a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 27, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 416 14 16. Open 10:00 - until last guest, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €. TAGSW

Khinkalnaya na Neve Situated only a few minutes from Gostiny Dvor, this restaurant offers good Georgian food for a reasonable price.

Although some dishes might not be as spicy as they are in Georgia, the flavourful Georgian wine and the nice and quiet living-room atmosphere makes this restaurant a good option to spend your evening. On the menu are all the traditional Georgian dishes such as different sorts of khinkali (dough filled with meat), pkhali (chopped and minced vegetables with walnuts and herbs), and tasty shashlik!QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 13-15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 08 99, www.hinkaly.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. PAESW

8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72

Khochu Kharcho “Khochu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy.

Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. €€.

PTALVESW

Starbucks Most people know Starbucks as a place designed to be cosy, with sofas, coffee tables and stools. You can relax, read a book, or meet with friends. On offer is a selection of coffees and other drinks, which you can personalise, for example with different flavours of syrups. Also at Nevsky pr.

25 and Nevsky pr. 114-116.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 11 96, www.starbuckscoffee. ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. € €. PAGSW

Pryanosti i radosti Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and it quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but somehow it works. You feel like you in are in a busy, fun and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW

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Features

Palkin restaurant St. Petersburg is a city that embodies history. As the capital of the Russian tsars, St. Petersburg has been the home of leading political figures, writers, reformers, tyrants and terrorists and sometimes individuals that fit all these categories. Nevsky prospekt and the city centre have witnessed much that is grand and tragic in Russia’s history. After a day of visiting museums, art galleries and wandering the beautiful streets – the Palkin restaurant is a good location to enjoy a meal and continue experiencing St. Petersburg’s dramatic history.

One of the oldest dining establishments in St. Petersburg and one of the few that has retained its original name and location, the restaurant bears the name of the original restaurateurs, the Palkin family, first mentioned in 1785. Initially, the popularity of the family’s taverns, and then later the Palkin restaurant chain was extraordinary. The most fashionable Palkin was situated on the corner of the Nevsky and Vladimirsky prospekts, 47. The building was purchased by Konstantin Palkin in 1871, after he inherited the business of his father, Pavel Palkin. The original building had to be reconfigured to serve as a restaurant but after renovations were completed the new restaurant was opened in 1874 with 25 dining halls, a billiard room, private cabinets, and a majestic staircase that was adorned with exotic plants and a sparkling fountain.

34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Features

In 1904, an extension was added and the concert hall renovated with the help of the famous Russian architect A.S. Khrenov. The restaurant’s visitors were treated to performances by famous musicians and singers, and the concepts of an ‘after theatre meal’ and also the ‘Sunday lunch with music’ were also introduced.

47 tried itself in a different role, this time as the “Premier” casino, soon gaining fame among those who were especially fond of exceptional and luxurious entertainment. The decor of “Premier” captivated with its elite, chamber finish, to match the respectable club atmosphere and a top level of service.

But in the end, it was decided that reviving the Palkin restaurant would be the best course to take. The road was long and windy: to return Palkin to its former use as a restaurant the owners brought in a team of specialists from the State Hermitage Museum to supervise the restoration work of the building’s original interiors. After the restoration of the original interiors was complete, a particular style was introduced for each of the restaurant’s halls - the fireplace hall, the chess hall, and the large hall, as well as for the bar and the red foyer. These interiors are now regularly used for shooting historical programmes and films.

The renovated Palkin restaurant was reopened in 2002 and has revived the traditions of 19th century hospitality.

These traditions include a cuisine which would have been familiar to the Russian aristocracy at the time and here you can savour dishes that once delighted top society in the imperial capital. The menu is abundant with meat, fish and vegetable dishes which means people of all gastronomical persuasions will find something to their liking. The joy and pride is the sturgeon baked in white wine sauce served with mushrooms, capers and a crawfish sauce. Other notable and absolutely heavenly dishes are rabbit stuffed with truffles served with a mushroom soufflé, tschi soup of the Tsarist era stewed with smoked pork and white mushrooms and, of course, the forest guineafowl with veal kidneys and a side of potato and carrot purée.

The restaurant’s menu alters with the seasons, while special meals such as the “Royal Lunch”, Christmas and New Year dinners are available for only a few days, being especially popular with the restaurant’s regulars. The ever in-demand sterlet (sturgeon) and lamb on the bone remain on the menu throughout the year. Palkin’s signature ice cream has become something of a legend and desserts from the confectioner’s studio and handmade chocolates have also proved to be much-loved menu additions. The restaurant also often organizes evenings with special gastronomical

sets - accompanied by an exquisite wine selection - that take guests to other parts of the country or even somewhere abroad to indulge in specialties from those places.

The restaurant’s wine list counts over 120 vintages, mainly from France, Italy, Chile and further afar. The rare wines kept in stock include the 1982 Chateau-Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classe and the 1988 Chateau Petrus Pomerol Grand Vin. Those who like their alcohol a bit stronger can choose from 30 brands of cognac, brandy, and calvados, more than 40 sorts of vodka, whiskey and gin, all of which can be nicely complemented with a cigar from Palkin’s wide selection.

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The Palkin has renovated the concert hall and now replicates 19th century dinners and also holds receptions for exhibitions, festivals and play premiers. The restaurant also runs so called soirees, “Nights with the Stars: Dinner by Candlelight” which have included some leading Russian performers. In the evenings live jazz, gypsy music and traditional Russian romances can be heard infusing the ambiance. The Hallway of Arts, an exhibit space for popular St. Petersburg painters, opens at the restaurant every month.

The Palkin offers panoramic views of Nevsky Prospekt and gives the visitor a chance to re-experience the best of Russian history and culture, making it an unmissable part of a stay in St. Petersburg for Russian and foreign guests.

QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.

PTAEW

The restaurant’s status made it popular among St. Petersburg’s socialites and intellectuals. Visitors to the restaurant included the poet Alexander Blok, scientist Alexander Butlerov, writers Nikolai Gogol, Fedor Dostoevsky, Nikolai Leskov, Anton Chekhov, painter Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin, and composer Petr Tchaikovsky. The restaurant was among the first in Russia to adopt elements of French cuisine into traditional Russian cooking. Visitors were also attracted by the atmosphere, which was similar to a private club.

Following the Bolshevik revolution, the restaurant was converted into the Titan movie theatre and enjoyed similar success. In 1934, it hosted the premiere of Chapaev, an epic film about the civil war. The movie theatre also held international film festivals and became a favourite of Leningrad’s bohemian circles. In 1995, Nevsky Prospekt, house number st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Where to eat

Where to eat visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW

European Fartuk Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff.

The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €. PTAGSW Grey’s coffeebar & bistro While it may offer a cheap café menu, Grey’s Bistro delivers it with style with its chic interior and tasty meals. The light menu offers a few salads, snacks and grilled items, all priced low enough, allowing you to order a variety of options to share. The café has also earned a reputation for its delicious cakes and coffee.QF-3, Konnaya ul. 5/3 (entrance from Telezhny per.), MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 925 42 50, www.greys-bistro.ru. Open 09:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. €. PSW Gypsy tapas bar Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish, the welcome is just as exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas, the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PAESW Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kroo Cafe It’s always nice to see new places appear in interesting central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Park Kroo Cafe serves breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps on going into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their French chef who is keen on buying his own products at the market, which only ads to the feeling that what you get is fresh. Topped off by friendly and smiling waitresses Kroo Cafe won’t disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www. kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00.

PTASW Mon Petit Café While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés in town, its understated colors, comfortable chairs and impressionist artworks on the wall help give off a mildly Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is refreshingly brief with highlights including excellent patés as starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème brûlée for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just focus on quality ingredients and in the end deliver tasty and satisfying meals, which are also value for money.QF3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

Grand Cru Grand Cru brings molecular cuisine and top vintage wines to the banks of the Fontanka canal. The sleek look of the restaurant is as sophisticated and minimalist as you can imagine and the display of wines on sale (and the equally attractive staff selling them) take centre stage. The menu is an exciting adventure for the taste buds with all kinds of exotic flavours and unusual spices being combined together with top notch fish and meat, to give the diner something memorable and out of the ordinary.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 52, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 25 11, www.grandcru. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW

L’Europe Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat. Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW

Le Boat Le Boat is a spacious and airy restaurant with lovely lighting and attentive staff. Located a short walk from Alexander Nevsky Monastery, past a series of some of the ugliest examples of Soviet Realism, Le Boat is convenient for the sightseer and the long term expatriate who wants to enjoy a fine dining experience away from the bustle of the central city. While the restaurant does not offer lovely views, a glass wall gives you a good view of the kitchen which can be an enthralling process. The restaurant’s main attractions are the lovely environment, good service, and a fine dining experience at affordable rates.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 22, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 640 26 40, www.leboat-restaurant.ru. €€€. PTAEW

Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing fivecourse special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. Read more on pages 34-35.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW

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October - November 2014

Fine dining

Soup Wine Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €. PAGSW Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Where to eat The Flying Dutchman At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s banks, with the glorious Winter Palace right opposite. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy berth you would expect, where the sharp modern interior doesn’t completely detract from the vessel’s heritage. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly doesn’t disappoint and a wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEGSW Wine Cellar 1853 Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located inside the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the world of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue.

This cellar accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50 bottles of champagne. On the menu you can choose among others between four different fondues. Next to the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and a chocolate fondue (as an entrée, main and dessert perhaps), you can also go for the champagne and perigord truffle and cheese fondue. QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski. com. Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW

Where to eat International Biblioteka This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here.

The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. It is used for literary events, meetings with writers and book presentations. A bookshop is also located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW Bolshaya Kukhnya A huge panorama restaurant just a stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more. The little ones have their very own menu in their very own restaurant.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW

Brixton Like many venues in the restaurant’s up and coming hip hot spot namesake in London, this newly opened restaurant is sure to fast become a regular for stylish crowds.

Channeling the London vibe from SW2, the restaurant’s bare brick walls, minimalist design and monochrome decor add a sharp edge to a comfortable environment for a quick working lunch or a few drinks later on. The menu offers enough variation for all tastes and requirements, where quality dishes also provide enough quantity to keep you going for a while afterwards, though the choice between a lush glass of wine or a cold light Belgian beer might be a tough one.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 33, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 930 89 87. Open 12:00 01:00. €€. PAGSW Buddha-Bar There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PALESW Five Points Gastrobar Five Points is another welcome addition in this neighborhood full of restaurants. The attractive French-inspired interior and the discrete background music are a perfect setting for long conversations. The menu is not extensive but all the dishes are delicious and made of fresh ingredients. The reasonable prices make it possible to try several things from the menu which includes fresh salads, pastas, fish, meat, and even tortillas. They have a great selection of drinks from European beers to Russian wine.QE-3, Ul. Lomonosova 18, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 26.

Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sun 11:00 - until the las guest. €.

PTAEGSW

38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994

20 years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru Moskva City Rooftop restaurants are the place to be in this city during the summer. Moskva City offers an unusual and fantastic view of St. Petersburg, with the broad Neva River glimmering in the sun. The good thing is, the food is not forgotten and is all tasty, served by friendly waiters and attractively presented. Prices are reasonable too. The terrace offers excellent space for lounging and partying. When the weather does not allow you to sit outside, they have lots of space in their well designed restaurant the next storey down.QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity.spb.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW

Long Island Diner & Bar Long Island is located in a timewarp just off Nevsky prospect. This place feels like a Hollywood remake of a 1950s milk bar with all the Americana you could wish for: from models of crime-fighting superheroes to Californian licence plates, and pictures from 1950s classic films to Elvis Presley. The bar plays a constant soundtrack of solid 1950s rock. The menu is all American too, burgers, beef and French fries with a mind boggling array of milkshakes to help you shake, rattle and roll. If you want something a bit stronger, they have a wide range of alcoholic cocktails and beverages.QD-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 8/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 924 36 97, www.longislanddiner.ru.

Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW

Myzhenaty Another of ulitsa Rubinshteina hip hideaways, the cafe Myzhenaty’s translation ‘we are married’ perhaps refers to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves, where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimalist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential coffees or juices, to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich.

The venue gets a thumbs up for not striving too hard for flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary library like setting in which to congregate with friends for a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW

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39

Where to eat Ribai A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt for something other than steak there’s another pleasant surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an American eatery the portions are mammoth and their delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai does.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAVESW Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available).

Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat The Kitchen Styled to look like a fancy kitchen, The Kitchen offers a little bit of everything: stir-fry, sushi, pasta, meat and a long list of desserts. Fittingly, the main focus of The Kitchen is the kitchen! Everything is made from the finest ingredients and even the most basic dishes are given a little culinary twist. It’s pricey, but the food is tasty and the service friendly, so if you are willing to travel a little bit away from the hustle and bustle of the center you definitely won’t be disappointed.QB-3, Moskovsky pr.

73, MFrunzenskaya, tel. (+7) 812 952 85 85, www. thekitchen.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALSW Yelagin A glamorous clientele is to be found at this chic, wooden panelled restaurant on the water, with a view across the St. Petersburg Riviera. Become part of a stylish crowd reclining on sofas downstairs or in the fresh air out on deck, and you might think you’re floating in the harbour of St. Tropez. The menu boasts an Italian, Russian and Japanese selection of meticulously cooked dishes presented by suave waiting staff, and an on board bar offers a large collection of mostly Italian wines as well as various cocktails. For not too extortionate fine dining in a beautiful setting, this will be one of your best bets in St. Petersburg.QB-1, Nab. Martynova, opposite the house №40, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 947 15 44, www.elaginrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW

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Italian Caffe Italia The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves, already puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gorgeously presented desserts are worth the effort and the wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won’t break the bank.QF-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www. caffe-italia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW Grato Trattoria If you are looking for a restaurant which differs from the restaurants in the centre, Grato Trattoria is the place to go.

Here you can taste authentic Italian food or try something a little more unusual. Located on Moskovsky prospekt with its Stalinist architecture, this is a very comfortable restaurant where you can feel at home and away with the pleasures of Italy.QMoskovsky pr. 171, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 34 23, www.grato-trattoria.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest (kitchen open 10:00 - 22:45). €€.

PTAGSW Gusto A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. It’s that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes.

Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce. Be sure to save some space for one of the homemade desserts if possible.QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW

Jamie’s Italian There are restaurants which carry this name in more than 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

ITALY Bottega This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very cozy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is common in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian homemade pasta, delicious pizza and some kinds of risotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159.

But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section - antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as a takeaway.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group.ru. Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW

Makaronniki Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sandbox for the kids. Enjoy unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

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October - November 2014

41

Features

Where to eat REstaurants in hotels So what’s the latest in hotel news this autumn? We’re very glad you asked! Firstly, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel is very pleased to offer a brand new autumn menu at its Bierstube restaurant. From October 21st until November 30th the menu will have traditional fall specialties that include pumpkin, lots of chestnuts and, of course, game.

Next up, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is proud to present Russia’s biggest selection of fresh Malossol (slightly salted) caviar so typical of this time of year in St Petersburg’s only caviar restaurant, The Caviar Bar, with the pinnacle of indulgence being the rare Golden Caviar from the albino sterlet in Russia’s Far East. This unbelievably tender flavor is best savored slowly with Russian vodka or a lá francais with exclusive champagne. Other delectable additions at the Caviar Bar this autumn include unpasteurised beluga and Astrakhan and Siberian oscietra, sevruga and sterlet caviars, as well as fresh red caviar from hunchback and Siberian salmon.

Also, pike caviar, which is making a comeback this season, is another exciting enhancement to the menu.

The Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel together with the new head chef Anton Turchin has been hard at work all summer preparing a whole new gastronomic concept…and it’s finally here! At the heart of this new menu are local St. Peterburgian flavors, so it goes without saying that most of the ingredients are locally sourced and produced in the Leningrad region.

That means an abundance of mushroom, berry and apple dishes. For example, one of the chef’s new signature dishes is jam made out of pine needles from the region.

Tea ceremonies are about to get a whole lot sweeter at Kempinski Hotel Moika 22. A new collection of delicious French desserts, made by Christophe Laplaza, the hotel’s executive chef, has added an exquisite charm to the hotel’s elegant Tea Room. Here, guests can now try numerous specialties that are bound to make any tea drinking ceremony worthy of the Queen of England herself: French Cheesecake or Financier with Apricot and Pistachio, Medovic a`la Kempinski Moika 22, classic Opera Cake, excellent Vanilla Tahiti Éclairs or Raspberry Mood Marmalade. A classic cup of coffee might bring a joyful holiday mood if paired with any of the macaroons from a wide assortment of different tastes honey, popcorn, pistachio lime, pina colada, blackberry, coconut, raspberry, caramel and orange chocolate.

For contact information on hotels check page 55-57.

42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Marcelli’s Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious.

With an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW Palermo Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW Percorso Italian to the core, this restaurant combines a magnificent interior with great food. You want to see the chef preparing the food, or rather sit near the fire, perhaps you prefer a view on St. Isaac’s square and cathedral? It’s all possible here at Percorso, decorated with beautiful chandeliers, art and comfortable seats all in a warm setting. Staff is smiling and welcoming and happy to help you pick and choose the best it has to offer, which is a lot. Fresh seafood, delicate meat, homemade pasta, cheeses and more. Combine that with a nice glass of wine and you’ll have a great night out (at least we did). Prices are more than reasonable for a restaurant of this kind.QD-3, Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 44, www.fourseasons. com/stpetersburg/. €€€. PALW

konyushennaya area Ivan Sergeevich Turgenev – one of the classics of Russian literature. Nikolai Andreevich RimskiyKorsakov – a great Russian composer. Arkadiy Aleksandrovich Rylov – an esteemed Russian-Soviet artist and teacher. What do these distinguised people all have in common? At one point of their lives they all resided on a beautiful street in St. Petersburg that connects Nevsky Prospekt and Konyushennaya Square.

Bolshaya Konyushennaya street, which runs parallel to River Moika, appeared on the map of St. Petersburg in the 1730s at the order of Empress Anna Ionnavna. In Russian, the name means the Big Stable street and this is no accident: the street was created to connect Nevsky Prospekt to the Konyushennaya Square, where the Empress had her regal stables.

At first this street became tightly lined with small wooden houses that belonged to Europeans who relocated to St. Petersburg but these didn’t last very long as in 1739 an order came in to replace them with one- and two-storey concrete buildings. Many of the Europeans remained and therefore this area of St. Petersburg is where most of the non-Orthodox places of worhsip were constructed. The Finnish Church of Saint Mary was built between 1803 and 1805 and the Germano-French Reformist Church three decades earlier.

Testo Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough.

They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

Soon after the Germano-French Church was established, a new street appeared on the map of St. Petersburg – Malaya Konyushennaya street, or Small Stable street. Like its older sibling, this street also got its name from being connected to Konyushennaya Square.

Life in this area of St. Petersburg was smoothly running its course throughout the 19th century. Buildings were being renovated and restructured, the foreign houses of worship got new add-ons..but when the Bolsheviks came power these two streets discontinued to exist. In October 1918 Malaya Konyushennaya became Sofyi Perovskoi street and Bolshaya Konyushennaya was renamed after A. I. Zhelyabov, a notorious revolutionary and terrorist.

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During the Soviet times several buildings on Bolshaya and Malaya Konyushennaya changed the purpose of their existence because the Bolsheviks, of course, did not recognize religion or the bourgeios lifestyle. And so the fashionable restaurant Medved’ on Bolshaya Konyushennya 27 was transformed into the Raikin Theater (which is there till this day) and right next door - house number 25 - where there was once the French Reformist church, the government established a Soviet-style doughnut place called «Zhelyabova 25». Until this day, locals believe this to be the best little coffee and pastry joint in town and maybe it has something to do with the fact that in the last 50 years the recipes and the assortment haven’t changed at all. From 1709 and up until

1918, house number 5 on Malaya Konyushennaya used to be the German School - Sankt-Petri-Schule - and one of the oldest educational institutions in Russia. Although in 1991 the building was given its old name back, it is famous among Russian rockers and music lovers for once being the residence of the one and only Boris Grebenschikov, the leader of the legendary group Akvarium. It is a place of pilgrimage for fans of the group and the walls are covered with band’s lyircs.

Nowadays, this area is a great place for a nice walk, soaking in history and culture and hanging out with friends. The beautiful Spaso-Konyushennaya Church is located on Konyushennaya Square; this is the church where Russia’s most famous poet Aleksandr Sergeevich Pushkin had his burial service in 1837. In 2010 Bolshaya Konyushennaya underwent a mass reconstruction process and is now a pleasant leafy boulevard with cafes, fountains, horse sculptures and benches. It’s also a great place to splurge on elite designer brands thanks to a number of boutiques as well as the newly re-opened “DLT” department store, which stands for the “Leningrad House of Trade”. Malaya Konyushennaya became a car-free pedestrian street in the 1990s and in 1997 a large bronze statue of Nikolai Gogol was erected in the middle of the street.

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Where to eat

Nightlife

Discover the world of Buddha-Bar

The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.

Buddha-Bar St Petersburg is a first Russian lounge-restaurant of Buddha-Bar global network widely known for the unique format in megacities of all over the world (Paris, New York, London, Monte Carlo, Prague, Beirut and other cities). Buddha-Bar concept is based on a combination of pan-Asian gastronomy, own musical concepts and unique interior.

Interior Unusual combination of comfort reflected in clever atmosphere of serenity, conceptual interaction of light and music will help you relax and catch a break from the city buzz. Traditional features of every restaurant of the global network are ancient vases, dense streams of the amber light changing to twilight, mosaic, French gold fabrics, varnished wood, create a serenity atmosphere for each visitor. Key element is a statue of Buddha which has been a main symbol of all restaurants of the global network for many years. Area of the restaurant Buddha-Bar St Petersburg is 2500 sq.m. First floor is assigned for lounge area, there is one of the largest bars in St Petersburg, lounge tables, and 5 private dinettes. The restaurant area is on the second floor. There are also Wine Room and VIP-room which can accommodate up to 40 guests.

Cuisine Chef Aaron Stott has extensive experience of work in the best pan-Asian restaurants in London (Vong and Nozomi), Dubai (Okku), Moscow (Kinki). Buddha-Bar offers a wide variety of

44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Birzha Bar Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally intended to be St. Petersburg’s central city. The island is today one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar aims to hold wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attract Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.

QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW

Cuba Libre The bar is adorned by Cuban flags, and from the remarkable jumble of spirits behind the bar, you would have to choose at least something with rum in. More than sufficient seating make Cuba Libre a decent choice for a bite to eat, where the classic burger and platters to share will go down a treat, but it’s really the night when the place comes alive. The heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long you might not let yourself leave until you’ve sampled a good few.QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 55 26, www.barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAESW

Bristol Pub Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - everything here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs of the 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the England of the time.

Bristol is just as suited to business lunch among colleagues as to a celebration in high-spirited company. Don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the cooking - everything’s simply done, but very tasty.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW

Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks.

The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW

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October - November 2014

Bars and Pubs

History First Buddha-Bar lounge-restaurant opened its doors in Paris in 1996. The founder and the mastermind of BuddhaBar brand is Raymond Visan. Now there are more than 25 Buddha-Bar restaurants, SPA and hotels all over the world.

Regular Buddha-Bar customers are eminent guests and show business stars, such as: David and Victoria Beckham, Lady Gaga, Cameron Diaz, Johnny Depp, Jennifer Lopez, Puff Daddy, Sharon Stone, Madonna, Will Smith, Tim Burton, John Galliano, Thierry Henry, Demi Moore, Bill Clinton, Naomi Campbell, Celine Dion, Sylvester Stallone and many others.

Chef Aaron Stott

dishes of the countries of Pacific region. Cooked only from the best ingredients, healthful, filled with fruit aroma, Buddha-Bar dishes harmoniously combine classical recipes and bright culinary ideas.

Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer)

Music Buddha-Bar music is traditionally exotic and rare selection of pieces specially created by musical residents of Buddha-Bar global network. DJs easily mix Indian, Arabian, Spanish, Latin American, Peruvian, Greek, Tibetan rhythms, creating some kind of sensations in the music world.

QSinopskaya Naberezhnaya 78, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru

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Nightlife

Nightlife

Library Bar Only round the corner from St. Isaac’s, Library bar offers a simple bite to eat and a marvelous selection of beers to refresh the busy sightseer. The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might be more of a place to catch some football on the many screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW

Terminal Bar Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the weight of just about any spirit you might fancy.

Fortunately without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MMayakovskaya.

Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW

Purga There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address

by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purgaclub.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Clubs

Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW

Avrora Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with a bowl-shaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which features smaller concerts and other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrorazal.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW

Radiobaby With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 06:00. PEW

Poltory Komnaty However many friends you roll up to Poltory Komnaty bar with, you can expect one more in the form of the barman.

Enthusiastic to shake up a cocktail selected specially for you from their vast expertise, the staff will save you the trouble of deliberating over long cocktail menus. All the drinks here are presented beautifully, the typically elegant cocktails are served on a mini wooden board decorated with a sort of mini tapas of anything from chocolate or berries to cured meat to accompany a red wine.QE-2, Ul. Mayakovskogo 34, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 905 255 38 48. Open 18:00 until last guest. €. PAW

Dacha This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Bar 812 Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW

Dom Byta The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW

Daiquiri Bar Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru.

Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

“Blue Route” Pub Crawl The Dickens cordially invites you on a pub crawl: an adventurous, not particularly strenuous activity for those faithful who cherish the English tradition of spending an enjoyable evening wandering from one pleasant hostelry to the next in the company of friends both old and new. What better way than a pub-crawl to do justice to the famous White Nights, and to fix in your memory the wonders of summer in the centre of St Petersburg? Come with us on a special trip through the city centre, punctuated by your favourite wateringholes (you’ll spot them by their colour: our pub signs, staff uniforms, even our upholstery is all in the same dark blue Dickens hue). Collect two stamps on our special Blue Route flyer, and claim your free pint of proper English ale in the third pub you visit. (Stamps valid for one day only). Read more at www.dickenspubs.com 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Cocktail bars

Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Tsvetochki A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

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What to see

What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00.

All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).

St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times.

They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside town though. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00.

Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos

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Hermitage The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art.

The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east. There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum.

The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).

QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

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What to see

What to see

Churches

Museums

Lyrical City

St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture.

Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past.

St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage art gallery, to museums about the city’s famous writers, including Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to vodka (of course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also see castles and palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle, and the Menshikov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is now The State Museum of History of St. Petersburg.

With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them.

Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.

Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.

Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.

Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.

Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents.

Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su.

Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl. 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Grandmaket (Russia in miniature) QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend 450Rbl, children 250Rbl. Museum of the History of Religion QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Suvorov Memorial Museum QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.

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F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone.

Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.

Tours around City Tour Bus Tracing a route around the city’s most popular spots such as St. Isaac’s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these unique in Russia hop-on, hop-off red double-deckers are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over two hours to complete and there are audio guides that narrate the most fascinating facts and legends about St. Petersburg and its heroes in one of 11 languages, including Japanese, Chinese, Swedish, Finnish and Dutch.

An added advantage is that the ticket is valid for a whole day, so you can plan your own city visit as you like.QD-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69/ (+7) 961 800 07 55, www.citytourspb.ru. Start from Ostrovsky sq., departure every 30-60 min from 09:00 till 19:00. Adults 500Rbl, students 400Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Tickets can be bought on the bus.

PUN Peter’s Walking Tours A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tours one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city.QTel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www. peterswalk.com. Walking tours are held daily until the end of October. Walking tour 650Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

modern art centres

If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works.

Anna Nova Art Gallery QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.

Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.

Marina Gisich Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.

Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.

S.P.A.S Gallery QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru.

ROSPHOTO QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.

CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof.

It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the insides and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 days options for your convenience.

More information at www.petersburgcard.com.

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What to see

What to see Oranienbaum Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building, the only place in the park where you can buy food or drinks.

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org.

Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces 250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. Pavlovsk QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. Peterhof QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06.

Pushkin QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. Strelna QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts There is no time like autumn to catch the best of St. Petersburg and the surrounding parks and estates. The trees offer a spectacular range of colours as their leaves turn red and golden with the last heat of summer. Enjoy the last weeks of sun before winter sets in by visiting the parks and palaces around St. Petersburg.

Konstantinovsky Palace Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).

Peterhof Palace and Park Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pavlovsk Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.

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Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg.

By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.

From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.

By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.

From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.

For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.

Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof ).

By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a.

You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224).

By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains.

For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.

Pushkin Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.

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What to see

Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

Old Soviet Stuff TourS If you want to see a completely different side of St. Petersburg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old Soviet Stuff Tour.

The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of interesting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly decaying communistic factory and some other surprises just around the corner.

We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24.

Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineering pride. The drive should already be a part of the adventure and with this Volga that certainly was the case!

WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since

5 Stars

his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other excursions during the season. Something involving Russian country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says their slogan! Have fun! QTel. (+7) 965 786 26 48, www. wowrussiatours.com. Tours are possible everyday.

Pick up point and time are flexible. Admission from 2,000Rbl per person.

Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.

183 rooms.

Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms.

Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.

Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.

197 rooms.

Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms.

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.

Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.

W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

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Where to stay

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Ludmila Sternina, Concierge at Taleon Imperial Hotel Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Ludmila Sternina and I’ve been working as a Concierge at Taleon Imperial Hotel for the last 2 years. I was born in St. Petersburg and my introduction to the hotel industry was in the role of a tour-guide. Then I was lucky to try myself in the best hotels of St. Petersburg and even had a unique opportunity to work for 1.5 year in Miami Beach in one of the most iconic hotels of USA. This summer I became a member of Les Clefs d’Or and I do take great pride in it.

Congratulations! You became a member of Les Clefs d’Or not long ago, how does that feel? Becoming a member of Les Clefs d’Or is a great personal and professional achievement for me. I consider it an honor to be among the best and top professional Concierges from all over the world. I feel like a member of a big international family where everyone fulfills our motto “In service through friendship” each and every day.

What can you tell us about your favorite places in St. Petersburg? One of my favorite places to visit is the Mariinsky Theatre. Ballet or opera, original or new stage – it is always a feast for the eyes and ears. Another special place is the Kazan Cathedral, where the wonder-working icon of Our Lady of Kazan is located. This architectural masterpiece full of history and a special spiritual atmosphere will never leave you indifferent. But the soul of the city is Neva. Only boat trips let me enjoy the actual alternative beauty of the “Northern Venice”. So don’t miss your chance before the navigation is closed for the winter.

4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms.

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.

214 rooms.

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms.

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.

Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.

Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms.

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms.

Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.

173 rooms .

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.

3 Stars AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.

Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.

What do you like best about the Taleon Imperial Hotel? Taleon Imperial Hotel is a real gem. It is the only one in St. Petersburg located in an original 18th century palace. Opulent historic interiors and a luxury SPA with a 20-meter pool make you say “Wow” as soon as you enter. It still amazes me every day and I really feel a part of this history. But what makes any hotel alive are the people. It is a true pleasure and delight to work with our wonderful and professional team. Together we create an outstanding experience for our guests every day – that’s what makes my job really fascinating.

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!

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Shopping

Shopping Russian souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative.

These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree.

Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables.

Caviar Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

St. Petersburg Fashion Week Calling all fashionistas: one of the most important fashion events of the year is just around the corner! This year, the St. Petersburg Fashion Week (SPbFW) will take place from October 2nd-5th under the patronage of Fashion Syndicate St. Petersburg. Famous Russian fashion designers, world famous brands, international guests and fresh young talents will present their collections for Spring/Summer 2015. Reputable designers like Polina Raudson, MD Kharlen, Anna Ovchinnikova and Fabric Fancy (all members of Fashion Syndicate) will be representing the Russian fashion world and are joined by collections from Baltic, Serbian and Belorussian designers. www.spbfashionweek.ru 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Gifts and Souvenirs Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A La Petite Opera Gallery QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. net. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­ teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Aurora Fashion Week Russia A fashion show that isn’t only about fashion? Yes, that’s Aurora Fashion Week in a nutshell. This event, spanning 10 days this October (from the 8th until the 18th), will be held for the fifth time this year. Although a relatively young project, AFW has already become one of the most prominent event of its kind in the country.

Aside from loud fashion premieres from influential local and domestic world renowned designers such as Thom Browne, Costume National, David Koma, Mary Katrantzou and Mark Fast, AFW incorporates various events outside the podium that integrate fashion with other trends in modern culture. A screening of the film “Yves Saint Laurent” will shed some light on the life of the famed French fashion designer, while the ART x FASHION will be launched with the opening of the “Russia in Vogue” exhibition on the 16th of October. Book launches and special gastronomical events in the hippest restaurants will also be held throughout the city as part of AFW. www.afwrussia.com

Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb. ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

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Expat & Business

Expat & Business The Expat Experience My name is Marco Fien. I am a native of Hamburg, Germany.

I belong to the baby boomer generation of the early 1960s and have two sons of 22 and 10 years of age. The hospitality business has been my passion since the moment I witnessed the General Manager of a luxury Algarve resort property receive his guests for a cocktail party near the ocean. My mom recalls that at that very moment I exclaimed “I want to be like him!” I was 13 years old at the time, so a few trials and tribulations followed before my life became what it is today. While it did not turn out to be an endless cocktail reception, it certainly has brought me much joy being in this business over the past 30 years.

I have never regretted the choice I made.

winter bazaar The Winter Bazaar is an annual fund raising event held by the International Women’s Club (IWC) St. Petersburg. This annual event is held at the Astoria Hotel on Sunday 23rd November 2014, 11:30 – 16:00. It has already become quite a tradition. The Winter Bazaar is the IWC’s main fund raising event to finance the club’s charity activity during the year. The Winter Bazaar is also a wonderful way to meet lots of people, both Russian and ex-pats. All of the proceeds raised go to various charities in the city of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad Oblast. Last year about 1400 guests visited the Winter Charity Bazaar. www.iwcstpete.com

Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com.

English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru.

International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily. internations Qwww.internations.org.

60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can you compare it with other big cities you’ve been to/ worked in? I consider myself very lucky working in such a vibrant city with endless offerings of high class culture and entertainment. I have lived in several cities around the globe, e.g. Istanbul, Prague, London, Dubai, Beirut, Jeddah, Almaty, Abu Dhabi, Stuttgart, Moscow and each has its undisputed charm, however never before have I felt so connected with a place than St. Petersburg. I love it not only in summer, which is maybe more obvious, but also during the cold season, when the thick white snow muffles the sound of noisy neighbors and romantic Russian fairy tale thoughts enter your mind.

What are your plans for the future? I am currently involved in a project which entails more responsibility for me for properties of the same owner, so I foresee remaining in the city for a while longer. When one day my marching orders arrive, I know already now that it will be hard to find a match to this beautiful destination. Having said that, several Asian countries as well as Marriott’s new venture into Africa hold interesting potential for me.

How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg? What are your favorite spots in the city to visit in the weekends? I play tennis on the weekends when time permits, study Russian twice a week (with slow progress, but much vigor) and visit city center restaurants frequently, both for the professional experience as well as a simple hedonistic idea. I love walking in Elagin Park or along the seashore of the Finnish Gulf, visit Kronstadt and Pushkin from time to time or undertake a weekend trip to Helsinki or Tallinn when a change of scenery is needed. During the warmweather season there is another favorite spot: My little balcony! I am blessed living in a quaint neighborhood, buzzing during the day, yet soothingly quiet at night. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Cultural Centres and Libraries

Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00.

Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Japan Center QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Accountants Acsour QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Avenir Group QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Deloitte Touche CIS QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, www. deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PW EMG QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: Семь пятниц на неделе – Sem pyatnits na nedele In Russian, this translates literally as ‘seven Fridays in a week’. “Seven Fridays?” you say, “that sounds perfect – I never have to face another Monday morning!” However, if a Russian friend says to you, with a sigh, or a roll of the eyes, “cемь пятниц на неделе”, they are not wishing you a week of Friday nights! In fact, the phrase is equivalent to the English idiom ‘rain at seven, fine at eleven.’ When you hear this, you are being scolded for changing your mind every five minutes, and generally being as fickle as they come.

Liden & Denz is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. They have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players.

There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows.

There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group. The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.

If you would like your expat or business group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.spb@inyourpocket.com October - November 2014

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Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery.

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Street register

Moscow

1-28-ya liniya

B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.

C-3

Rubinshteina ul.

E-3

Admiralteisky pr.

D-3

E-2

Ryleeva ul.

E-2

Kovensky per.

Alexandra Nevskogo most

F-3

Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.

F-2

Sadovaya ul.

E-2,3

Angliskaya nab.

C-3

Kronverkskaya nab.

D-2

Sampsonievsky most

D-1 E-2

Anichkov most

E-3

Kronversky pr.

D-1

Sapyorny per.

Arsenalnaya nab.

E-2

Kutuzova nab.

D-2/E-2

Shpalernaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Bakunina pr.

F-3

Lermontovsky pr.

C-3/C-4

Shvedsky per.

D-2

Baskov per.

E-2

Letny sad

D-2

Sinopskaya nab.

F-3

Belinskogo ul.

E-2

Leitenanta Shmidta nab.

C-3

Smolnaya nab.

F-2

Birzhevaya liniya

C-2

Ligovsky pr.

E-3/E-4

Solyanoy per.

E-2

Blagoveshchensky most

C-2

Liteiny most

E-2

Sotsialisticheskaya ul.

E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

E-2

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

D-3

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

С-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. – Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. – Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. – Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. – Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. – Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. – Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. – Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. – Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. – Malaya

64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).

Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train.

The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience.

After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

October - November 2014

65

Metro map

Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.

Tretyakov Gallery QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

Modern Art Centres Moscow Multimedia Art Museum (MMAM) QUl. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA) QUl. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission from 150Rbl.

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.

Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru.

Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.

If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress.

The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QKalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QUl. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Hotel National QMokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Ivan Hostel QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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