Black Sheep Dec 07

P a t a g o n i a • P u n t a A r e n a s • P u e r t o N a t a l e s • To r r e s d e l P a i n e

December 2007

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Volume 3 • Issue 4 • December 2007 • www.patagoniablacksheep.com • cover image by Nick Yates

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine

Motorcycles in Patagonia It’s all about the bike.

Free Climbing Wall in Natales

Cabo Froward Sheep Cheese or Bust

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

December.07

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Word from the front line - Rustyn Mesdag, publisher

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Cover Image:

By Nick Yates

Nick Yates has traveled and photographed extensively all over the world. He’s been lucky enough to meet many amazing people on his travels and now adds Tom to his list. Working for the BBC in Patagonia, Nick met Tom in a pub, the perfect beginning for most great plans.They hatched a plan to get Tom and his motorcycle on board the boat Nick was travelling on.

With many thanks to Roger and Connie (the boat owners), Tom spent the next 12 days sailing and climbing with Nick on what turned out to be a historic trip.

Published by Southern Cross Ltda.

Black Sheep

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Magazine Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56•61 977090141

Publisher: Rustyn Mesdag editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Director: Pilar Irribarra sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

Editor: Heather Poyhonen editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

Sales: Sebastian Borgwardt sebastian@patagoniablacksheep.com

Patagonia and Motorcycles…

What a great couple of words to start an editorial with. I see these guys rolling through Patagonia and it makes me realize that even with all the wind and rain that we receive in the summer season, Patagonia really is one of the most exiting places I can imagine doing a bike tour in. We often see large groups come through as well as solo travelers. Some tours last only a few weeks, others for undetermined length of time.

This was the case with Tom.

Tom had no plan, only a direction: the end of the world. He started in Vancouver, B.C., after working for a bit in Oregon and buying a motorcycle there. It was also in Oregon where he happened upon a good friend of mine, Jim Bushman. After hearing about Tom’s idea to ride to Chile, Bushman told him to swing into Puerto Natales and say hi. About 10 months later, Tom walked in, and says “Jim says hi.” Then I noticed the motorcycle parked at my door.

A dusty Triumph, completely strapped up and down with tattered leather saddle bags, which he had traded for in Argentina, a wind whipped rucksack and a guitar strapped on by an elastic cord. There were small bags stuffed and bound in every available space.The bike was a perfect example of function over style. The entire bike and its burden looked like they had grown and evolved together over the months, making it seem like it could never work with any one component missing. What stands out most to me was the way I found myself standing there, staring at this bike, nodding in jealous approval and thinking one thing… “Coooool.”

He left without haste, making his way to Ushuiaia, the official completion of his mission, but then would head up the eastern coastline of Argentina, I think it was to see his brother in Buenos Aires, but he never seemed to be married to any kind of schedule.

Upon his arrival in Ushuaia, Tom met up with a group of guys in a pub. They had a small sailboat, and after a few brews, they offered to drop Tom (and his bike) in Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino, Chile--the true southernmost town in the world. This would truly complete his trip. Unfortunately, due to a last minute change, the boat was unable to dock in Williams and needed to continue on to its original destination, Penninsula Cloue off of the Beagle Channel. This is an unmapped, practically untouched area that the ship’s crew was scouting for a BBC program. Tom had no choice but to go along for the ride.

When arriving on Cloue, Tom geared up with the crew to scout this uncharted island (which also happens to be the southernmost glacier in the world, outside of Antarctica). If this wasn’t enough, Tom and the group made a first ascent of a small, unnamed peak there on Penninsula Cloue. Tom had never climbed before, not bad for his first time out. With that, they sailed back to Puerto Natales and dropped Tom off, just like he’d never left.

A few weeks later as I walked to my office I saw that dusty Triumph parked in front again. Calmly, and without any self-amazement, Tom told me his story. For a second time, I found myself standing there, shaking my head, staring at this bike that had come down from my hometown in Oregon, worked its way

through Tierra del Fuego, past Ushuaia, past Puerto Williams, and down to a place that most of us will never see. Let alone with a motorcyle!

Maybe there are only a few that would think of touring through the crazy trying weather of Patagonia on a motorcycle as ‘fun.’ Maybe not knowing where you will sleep every night or not knowing where you are going makes you uncomfortable. Fair enough.

Read no more.

For those of you who are dying to see the dusty roads of Patagonia, with everything you have strapped to your back and getting away from the typical gringo trail... well, find yourself a motorcycle and go for it! The trick is finding a motorcycle. Unless you have ridden down here on one, you’ll have to buy or rent one.

After seeing Tom come and go, I definitely got the bug for a bike again. So I went on a hunt. I wanted to find places to rent a motorcyle for a day or two and just try to soothe the ache a bit. Here’s what I found...

•

• •

World’s End on Blanco Encalada 226 rents Kawasaki 650cc off-road bikes, from $100USD per day. You can contact them at info@patagoniax.com or 414725.

Moto Aventura, based in Osorno, Chile, rents motorcycles, which you can return to other locations, www.motoaventura.cl Patagonia Motorcycle Tours, based in Neuquen, Argentina www.patagoniamotorcycletours.com

- Pilar Irribarra, directora

Punta Arenas

Marnix Doorn ptarenas@patagoniablacksheep.com Punta Arenas

Anthony Riggs anthony@patagoniablacksheep.com Pucón

Contributors: Sarah Anderson Mauricio Cortes Bo Hageman Marijke Kulik Casey Tane Liz Tolan

Webmaster: Carla Cuadra webmaster@patagoniablacksheep.com

Consultant: Bill Penhollow

Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by Puerto Natales, Chile--the big rock candy mountain of Patagonia.The opinions within Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertizers.We therefore reserve the right to live true to our name and always remain the Black Sheep.

Happy Birthday! ¡Cumpleaños feliz! ¡Sí! este mes de diciembre Black Sheep cumple 2 años (3 temporadas) como el primer periódico de turismo en inglés de la Patagonia Chilena. Comenzamos en Puerto Natales el año 2005, con la convicción de ser una real contribución a la actividad turística local y regional. A la fecha llevamos 17 ediciones y más de 100.000 ejemplares impresos que han dado la vuelta al mundo.

where it all started...

51* 44’ 06.7s 72* 30’ 17.8w tell your friends... don’t tell the guidebooks

Sabemos que hay mucho que hacer y que tenemos que seguir creciendo para poder cumplir cada vez mejor nuestro principal objetivo, el ser un periódico de gran utilidad a los miles de viajeros que cada mes leen nuestras páginas cargadas de aventura y emoción, queremos profundizar en nuestra misión de ser un periódico de viajeros para viajeros, con una percepción respetuosa de aproximación a la naturaleza y a las comunidad, sin dejar de lado el análisis de nuestra realidad turística.

Cada año tenemos nuevos desafíos y vamos ampliando nuestros horizontes de esta inmensa Patagonia. Este año hemos incorporado con fuerza, una mejor y mayor información sobre Punta Arenas, incluyendo el mapa de la ciudad, los Punta Arenas Q&A y artículos sobre su historia y sus atractivos que sin duda disfrutarán.

Además, una gran noticia para nosotros haber sumado al equipo una nueva editora Heather Poyhonen, quien ha contribuido con sus frescas ideas, experiencia y profesionalismo en el ámbito editorial.

...y como se trata de cumpleaños Black Sheep tiene que pedir tres deseos antes de soplar las velitas: el primer deseo es que

todos los que trabajamos por y para el turismo nos unamos en la firme decisión de cuidar y proteger esta naturaleza sorprendente que nos rodea. El segundo deseo es que nuestros visitantes se lleven el mejor recuerdo y las experiencias más enriquecedoras en su viaje a Patagonia y el tercer y último deseo es un nuevo Macintosh (modelo Core 2 Extreme de 24 pulgadas)!

Y sin querer ser muy “latera” o demasiado sentimental no puedo dejar esta ocasión para agradecer principalmente a Rustyn Mesdag, porque ha sido un “Partner” de trabajo ejemplar que no descansa hasta ver cada número del periódico terminado e impreso y porque pone toda su creatividad y talento en estas páginas.

También, deseo saludar a nuestros fieles lectores, a todos nuestros colaboradores, al equipo de ventas y principalmente a nuestras 50 empresas anunciantes de Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, Tierra del Fuego, Cerro Castillo y Torres del Paine, ya que sin ellos no sería posible la existencia de Black Sheep. ¡FELIZ CUMPLEAÑOS BLACK SHEEP!

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Torres del Paine, Chile - Q&A What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days?

That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack!

Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How far is it to the park from here?

From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours.

What time do the buses leave in the morning?

Most of the buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.

What’s up with all the dogs?

Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel?

Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

How can I book a refugio?

In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa.

How much does camping cost in the park?

Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. From April to May, in the off-season, closed campsites are free.

So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp?

Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well.

Which campsites are free?

Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.

What about midday?

Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the supermarkets.

Where can I buy camping food in town?

Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively.

How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens?

There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

What are the winters like around here?

Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios?

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind, too, that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park?

The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 17.000 round trip. But it also shuts down during winter.

Is there food sold in the park?

You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.

Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place?

Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.

How much do the taxis cost?

From 6 a.m. to 1 a.m. it’s 800 pesos.

From 1 a.m. to 6 a.m. it’s 1.000 pesos.

(Within city limits.)

How long does the trekking season last?

Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the park is great in winter.

Why is there so much garbage on the beach?

That’s a great question... but you could always help and pick some up.

What time is sunrise and sunset?

It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.

Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine?

What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!

It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.

Where does all the garbage go that is produced in the National Park?

Good question... ask around.

If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first?

Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate?

The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition.

Some of the books seem to be a little off though.

No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you, and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly.

Heading to the park and realize you need another sleeping bag... and it’s 2 a.m.? Wondering how the heck you can get gas for your stove before the bus leaves? You’re in luck. La Maddera Outdoors mountain shop offers 24hour emergency service, the only one of its kind in the region.

La Maddera sells mountain clothing, camping equipment, rain gear,batteries, gas, and just about anything you need before heading

A true Chilean estancia... inside the city limits.

Do I get a map when I enter the park?

Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

Do I need sunscreen in the park?

Absolutely! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during the spring and summer months.

It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.

Where can I buy white gas?

The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too.

What’s up with all the military guys walking around town?

There is a military base located right outside of town.

Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something?

It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.

Do I need to tie up my food in the park?

Not really. But mice or foxes might get into your stuff. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you.

Can you drink the water in the park?

You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else?

Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang.

?

Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile

A free information seminar is held every day at erratic rock at 3pm in Puerto Natales.

24-Hour Emergency Gear Hotline in Natales

Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?

Depends on your budget and your destination.

Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.

www.er r aticr ock.com

-Seriously.

Alma Gaucha Hostel Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 415243 almagauchacl@hotmail.com

out on your adventures. They also rent camping equipment, from sleeping bags and backpacks to tents, stoves and cook sets.

From November 1 to April 30, their extended hours offer doors-open service from 8 a.m. to midnight (closed an hour for lunch).

Located in the center of town, at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt, their after-hours numbers are: (cell) 09 418 4100 and (house) 412 591.

December.07

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Daily

Ph. 221812

12.45

Terminal Rio Gallegos

13.00

Chile / Argentina

buses

A. Sanhueza 745 Buses Ghisoni

Mon. & Wed.

Buses Ghisoni

Tues. & Thu. thru

Ph. 613420

thru Sat.

Terminal Rio Gallegos

Sun.

L. Navarro 975

11.00

Buses Pacheco

Tue., Fri., Sun.

Buses Pacheco

Tue., Fri., Sun.

Ph. 242174

11.30

Terminal Rio Gallegos

12.00

12.00

Colón 900

Punta Arenas - Ushuaia

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas

Buses Pacheco

Tue., Thu., Sun.

Buses Pacheco

Mon., Wed., Fri.

Ph. 242174

09.00

San Martín 1267

08.00

Colón 900 Buses Barria

Wed. & Sat.

Buses Barria

Thu. & Sun.

Av. España 124

08.00

Comapa, San Martín 245

08.00

Tecni Austral

Tue., Thu., Sat.

Tecni Austral

Mon., Wed., Fri.

Ph. 613422

08.00

Roca 157

05.30

Ph. 240646

L. Navarro 975

Puerto Natales - Rio Turbio

Rio Turbio - Puerto Natales

Turis Sur

M-F:

Turis Sur

M-F:

Ph. 411202

08.15 & 13.30

Av. de los Mineros, Central

10.30 & 14.30

B. Encalada 555

Sat.: 11.00

Cootra

Daily

Cootra

Daily

Ph. 412785

08.30

Av. de los Mineros 100

12.15

Baquedano 456

18.15

Sat.: 14.30

19.45

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra

Daily

Cootra

Daily

Ph. 412785

08.30

Terminal Of. 06

08.30

Baquedano 456

El Calafate - Chalten

Chalten - El Calafate

Calafate Travel

Calafate Travel

Daily

Daily

Ph. 414456

08.00

Ph. 414456

06.30

Baquedano 459, Natales

18.30

Baquedano 459, Natales

18.00

Suscripción!

Valido para todo Chile Black Sheep es un periódico gratuito, el valor de la suscripción es por gastos de envio por un periódo de 8 meses.

Valor 8 meses $10.000 Envía tus datos por correo o email e inmediatamente nos comunicaremos contigo.

Nombre y Apellidos Dirección Email

Teléfono

Black Sheep Baquedano 719 Puerto Natales, Chile sales@patagoniablacksheep.com celular 77090141

buses

Buses Pinguinos

Paine

Daily

del

Buses Pinguinos

Torres

Rio Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Pta. Arenas / Pto. Natales

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos

Travel Times

Regional Bus Schedules Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate

5 hrs

TdP Laguna Amarga

2 hrs 30

Punta Arenas

3 hrs

TdP Pudeto

3 hrs 15

Ushuaia

15 hrs

Torres del Paine Admin.

3 hrs 45

Approximate travel times from Punta Arenas (allow time for border crossings) Puerto Natales

3 hrs

Rio Gallegos

6 hrs

Rio Grande

8 hrs

Ushuaia

13 hrs

Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - office Puma Tours 413672 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Trip 1

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Trip 2

Trip 1

Trip 2

Puerto Natales

7.00

14.30

Administration

13.00

18.00

Laguna Amarga

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.30

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

14.30

19.45

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

22.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales

7.30

14.00

Administration

13.00

18.15

Laguna Amarga

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.45

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

15.00

19.45

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

22.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242 Puerto Natales

Administration

13.00

18.30

9.45

16.30

Pudeto

13.30

19.00

Pudeto

10.45

17.30

Laguna Amarga

14.30

17.30

Administration

11.45

18.00

Puerto Natales

17.00

19.30

Laguna Amarga

7.30

14.00

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales

Buses Fernandez

07.15

Buses Fernandez

08.00

Ph. 411111

09.00

Ph. 221812

09.00

E. Ramírez 399

13.00

A. Sanhueza 745

13.00

14.30

14.30

17.00

17.00

18.30

18.30

20.00

20.00

Buses Pacheco

07.30

Buses Pacheco

08.30

Ph. 414513

10.00

Ph. 242174

14.00

Baquedano 500

13.30

Colón 900

18.30

18.00

19.30

Bus Sur

07.00

Bus Sur

09.00

Ph. 411859

08.30

Ph. 244464

15.00

Baquedano 668

15.00

José Menéndez 552

17.00

19.00

19.00

For more details about terms and conditions, please contact the bus companies directly.

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r u c k s ac k s & r a i n

Tu publicidad puede estar aquí!!

Waterproofing your pack Water is heavy. A quart of water weighs about two pounds. A rucksack full of rainwater would be impossible to lift. This is why folks buy backpack covers, but they’re expensive. They weigh up to half a pound and usually leave much of your pack exposed anyway. Plus down here in Patagonia, the wind is prone to grab the flimsy cover up like a kite and set it flying. What’s more, they won´t even protect your pack if it takes a dip in a creek or river.

Llámanos al cel. 77090141 o escríbenos a

sales@patagoniablacksheep.com

FREE use of knives, forks & chairs

el Living. La Plaza. Pto Natales.

Patagoniax Café & Books

Tip: Try lining your pack with a heavy-duty trash bag. A regular garbage bag is fine too, but the thicker the better. The trash bag offers FULL protection for everything in your pack, without having to carry the extra weight of an pricy backpack cover. Just be careful not to rip a hole in the bag while packing. And remember to have the top storage pouch lined at all times. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, just pull the plastic bag out of your wet backpack and move it--and your dry gear-into your tent with you. The outside of your pack might spend the night a little wet, but it’ll dry easily when the sun pops out.

Delicious, real, organic coffee and espresso.

Kick back and enjoy the cozy atmosphere.

Next time the clouds open up and dump rain without notice, everyone will scramble to protect their packs. But not you. You’ll be calm as a Hindu cow, knowing all your cloths and gear are wrapped and waterproof safely in a plastic bag.

Free Paine Torres del Paine Campsites Refugio Information Spotlight: Campamento Italiano

Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. In 1980, after being only a climber’s campsite for years, Italiano became an official free CONAF campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent backpackers from starting forest fires.

They guarded the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004, they built a guard hut there; all materials arrived carried by humans.

The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season, you’ll find up to 150 tents per night.

Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle del Frances with fewer time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano provides ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before sunset. Valle de Frances got its name from a Frenchman named Bader, who used to house cattle in the area. However, the animals roamed more in the areas around Pehoe and Italiano, and they were rarely found up in the valley.

For a long time the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga beech tree forest, offering trekkers protection from wind and rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. The disagreeable weather along with the growing number of people staying at Italiano has put a new project in motion. Most recently, they’ve built a hut to protect campers while cooking and relaxing, in out of the storm.

These prices are in U.S. dollars.

Open all day 8am to 10:30pm

B. Encalada 226 Pto. Natales - Ph. 414725 info@patagoniax.com

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS TEMPORADA 2007-2008 Regular Schedule Pudeto

Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos albergue@lastorres.com

November 1 to March 15, 2008

Breakfast $8.00 Lunch $13.00

Dorm bed

Dinner

$14.00

Full board $64.00

Pehoe

09:30am

10:30am

12:00pm

12:30pm

18:00pm

18:30pm

$34.00

March 16 to 31, 2008

12:00pm

12:30pm

Camping

$8.00

18:00pm

18:30pm

Sleeping bag

$8.00

April 2008

12:00pm

12:30pm

2-person tent $12.00 Mattress $3.00

One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed) Round trip ticket $17.000 per person Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales Ph 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

Vertice +56-61 412742 Paine Grande Mountain Lodge ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Breakfast $9.00 Lunch $12.00

Dorm bed

$35.00

Camping

$7.00

$15.00 Full board $65.00

Sleeping bag

$9.00

Dinner

2-person tent $14.00 Mattress

$3.00

Refugio Grey opens on December 1.

There are no garbage services in Refugios Dickson and Perros at this moment.

Please haul your trash out with you.

Do not leave it behind at the campgrounds.

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Fotografia © 2007 Daniel Bruhin W.

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Rest & Re v italiz e in Patagonia

wat e r

While trekking or climbing, the idea is to drink about three to four liters a day. But this really depends on where you are and what you are doing. In a hot desert, you´d probably want to double this, but a rest day at camp in mild weather would obviously require less. A good way to monitor your hydration level is to look at your urine output: Clear and copious is what you’re looking for. Bold yellow urine is a sure sign of dehydration, but remember that some vitamins will turn urine bright yellow; that´s different. If you’re feeling thirsty, then you’re already lacking up to a liter of water, and may have lost up to 20 percent of your endurance. Headaches or cramping are also signs of dehydration. Take time to drink. Don´t feel pressured by the clock or the team´s agenda.

A clever group will schedule in regular drink breaks together. It´s better to drink small amounts of water over time than to guzzle down a quart in one sitting.

This gives your body time to absorb the water, which is why it´s so important to continually drink all day. Torres del Paine is one of the last great destinations in the world where you CAN drink water fresh from streams and creeks along its trail. So, bottoms up!

Eb er hard 161 - Puer to Natales, Chile mandalaandino@yaho o.com 99302997 / 414143

New Northern Patagonia National Park

Valle Chacabuco Relaxation Therapies Outdoor Tubs Massages Natural Bar Outdoor Center Handmade Crafts

I’d love a Jacuzzi facing the sea and the glaciers

and a nice cosy bed

and a cool place to read and a fresh locally brewed beer and some good simple food and a big breakfast with some real expresso coffee and to sleep in without hearing the vaccum cleaner first thing in the morning

HOTEL SPA Ladrilleros105 I Puerto Natales (061) 413 609 I www.indigopatagonia.com

Valle Chacabuco National Park will be located in Chile’s Valle Chacabuco mostly centered on a 70,000-hectare farm that was purchased by Conservación Patagónica.

Doug Tompkins, a multi-millionaire from the clothing industry, and his wife Kristine are ardent conservationists that have acquired 800,000+ hectares through their Conservation Land Trust. Kristine Tompkins developed the Patagonian Land Trust, now called Conservación Patagónica, to purchase lands in Patagonia to be restored, developed and absorbed into the current string of national parks that have been created and sustained by such land trusts.

The overall plan of purchasing and protecting these lands involves revitalizing overgrazed and damaged landscape, the results of un-

sustainable ranching. Valle Chacabuco National Park protects areas from the Andean foothills through the Chacabuco Valley’s grasslands and westward to Rio Baker. This region will provide an area for huemul deer, herds of guanaco and puma to roam and populate.

One of the many steps upon purchasing land is the removal of livestock and fences, cleanup of former ranches and eradication of non-native plant species. A master conservation and restoration plan, run by a wildlife manager, also puts park infrastructure into place. Valle Chacabuco will showcase a healthy and intact ecosystem that has been restored through ambitious planning by ecologists who believe in their mission.

What Is La Difunta Correa?

by Thomas S. Daly

Either entering or leaving Puerto Natales, you can’t help but notice the vast collection of various-sized water bottles neatly stacked on the road side. No, it’s not a bottle bank minus the bank; it’s a shrine where locals pay homage to one of their many folk-saints: La Difunta Correa.

In South America there are many such santos populares, to whom people pray for just about anything, from forgiveness to winning the lottery.

These folk-saints are non-canonized saints, and the devotion to them is completely frowned upon by the Catholic Church. Completely overlooking this fact, the locals believe that the commonality of the saints brings them spiritually closer, and therefore they’re more likely to help their own.

The fabled story goes like this. During the Argentine civil wars of the mid-19th century, a militant leader namd Facundo Quiroga (also know as the Tiger) enlisted every able-bodied person in the province of San Juan to fight his cause. In 1835 ,he force enlisted a South American Spaniard by the name of Bustos and, along with many others, lead him off to war. His devoted and distressed wife Maria Antonia Deolinda Correa followed her husband through the desert, accompanied by their new-born son.

After eight days, Maria was thirsty, exhausted and in need of help. She climbed to the top

of a hillock to get a better view. Unfortunately, she found nothing, fell, drew her last breath and died.

After a few days her body was found by some cattle drivers. Miraculously the baby boy was still alive found and suckling on her breast, still living on his mother’s milk. She wore a necklace, which read “Correa.” After the people buried her body, they carved the name difunta Correa (dead Correa) on a nearby carob tree.

The Difunta Correa (also recognized in Chile) is one of the most prominent of the many Argentine folk-saints. Her main shrine is in Vallecito, San Juan, Argentina, and is a large affair housing several chapels and devotional sites, a Catholic church, a museum, restaurants, gift arcades, picnic areas and a hotel.

Before proceeding on a long journey, travelers offer of a bottle of water to Difunta Correa along with prayers. This gesture ensures a safe and happy journey.

Today, the Difunta Correa has a rival for the number one spot; a bandit by the name of Gaucho Gill (Antonio Gill). He has shrines popping up everywhere. These shrines pay homage to a Robin Hood-like bandit crossed with James Bond.They are noticeabley marked with blood-red flags and may display the name “Gaucho” or “Gaucho Gill.”

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Meet Ricardo & Felipe: Taller del Arbol

by Heather Poyhonen

Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop, Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318

I walked into the workshop of Taller del Arbol, cigar smoke filled the air.

An American rock hound in yellow-tinted sunglasses sucked his cigar between stories of North American stones. He went on, “I’m the president of a gem club. All the original members grew old and died. So, now I’m teaching my trade in night classes.

The baby boomers are all aging, you see.

They’re retiring and have no hobbies, so they want to learn how to make jewelry.”

Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, the store owners and artist silversmiths, presented the man with a block of petrified wood. Ricardo then describes the craft of the jewelry maker, “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it.” In the end, the American traded about 20 varicolored polished stones for an extravagant piece of Patagonian petrified wood.

Ricardo and Felipe are more or less from the hippy generation. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you ended up.

The thing is, there really is no ending up, because you’re still on whatever trajectory you’ve started. I met Ricardo and Felipe 22 years into their trajectory.

They first ran into each other in 1985, in Puerto Alegre, Brazil. Felipe was studying law, and Ricardo studied chemical engineering. They ended up going on a trip together with a few other guys. To pay for the trip, they created and sold handicrafts, using local seeds, copper and gourds.

Skip ahead four years. Having gone their separate ways after their initial journey, they randomly meet on a street in Santiago. Together again, they worked in Pueblito Artesenal Los Dominicos for 6-7 years. It was a communal atmosphere with a large group of people working in the campo outside of town, and selling their wares in Santiago at 15 day intervals. They even started a school in Santiago to further the art of jewelry making. At the time, you could only find traditional jewelry and the big tourist attraction lapiz lazuli.You might also find urban jewelry, but these pieces were mostly rudimentary.

The late ’80s and early ’90s experienced a boom of silversmiths. New styles, different jewels and top quality flourished. Around 1996 the friends separated, following their individual life journeys. In 2001, they met yet again, this time with wives and kids in tow. Los Dominicos had closed, and Ricardo was searching for a small, pretty, touristy place to set up shop.

It was during this search that he met Felipe once more, and they decided to work and stay in Santiago for only 2-3 more years.

This time they had more of an objective to their work--to support their families-whereas before their work took on an existential tone.

Ricardo and Felipe might be working, like most of us, to live, but Ricardo explains to me the importance of passion. “I have to keep changing to keep the passion in my work. Somehow you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work. For me to keep the passion for my work alive, I have to keep changing, and this usually happens in 5-6 year cycles.”

By 2004, they were working with fossils and visited Puerto Natales to see what the town had to offer. In November of the same year, they were renting the store that we now know as Taller del Arbol.

It is the first silversmith shop in Natales, and they welcome working on all materials. In talking about the materials he works, Ricardo says, “It’s like life. Nothing is really valuable out of context. But in context, the rock realizes its value. It becomes a work of art.”

Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work.

Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery.They work with just about anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, you name it.You can find them in the store with a red door, Eberhard 318. The one with hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, MondayFriday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.

While trying to pack lightly, it helps to take your fuel into consideration. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other hand, not having enough fuel might mean a cold dinner. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel...

2.

3.

4.

Don´t over-boil your water; it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you’re ready to start a boil is only heating the fresh air.

Put a lid on your pot. It holds in the heat making for a faster boil.

Use a wind screen. Wind carries the heat from under your pot and redirects it from your food. Using a wind shield aims the heat where you want it, up and under your pot. If you don´t have an aluminum wind screen, try making a shield using rocks from your campsite.

Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you’ll be able to cook in almost any weather conditions.

"AQUEDANO

0UERTO .ATALES Patagoniax

Café & Books Book exchange Second-hand books Bike Rentals B. Encalada 226, Puerto Natales Ph. 414725 - info@patagoniax.com

Bulnes 622 & Bulnes 555 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 56-61 410931 pedroblu@hotmail.com

vegetarian. juices. shakes. cakes

F u e l Eff i c i e n c y

1.

4HE $ R I E D & R U I T 'UY

MOUNTAIN GEAR RENTAL EQUIPMENT INFO BY LOCAL GUIDES

EBERHARD 226

FREE your taste buds

el Living La Plaza. Pto Natales

PUERTO NATALES

Tapas wine bar. sofas. book exchange

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Coming Events MOUNTAIN

BANFF

FILM

Midsummer Mask Madness

FESTIVAL WORLD TOUR

Who are you?

Every Friday night at 11 p.m.

Sat 22nd Dec. 21:00hr

Free Entrance

BRAZIL Beats Bash

Feb 13,14 & 15 2008

Sat 29th Dec. 21:00hr

A PROGRAM OF THE BANFF CENTRE

Parties at: el Living. La plaza

Puerto Natales, Patagonia Located at Escuela 1 Across from the ‘other’ Plaza on Baquedano

Toore

07.12.07 08.12.07 14.12.07 21.12.07 28.12.07

- Shackleton part 1 - Shackleton part 2 - Emperors of Antarctica - Ciudad de Dios - Apocalypse Now

Also check out “South Chile,” a wonderful documentary from 1945, every Mon. & Wed. at 11 p.m.

L a d r i l l e ro s 1 0 5 - w a t e r f ro n t - t e l . 0 6 1 6 1 5 7 3 0

Coupons & Discounts 2 for 1 pisco sour!

Free weekly movies in Natales

niax o g a k s muffins ps o Pat o u B e é & Homemad uiche, so f a C q es, crep

.30 0-22

eeles - Open 08.0 f f o c ata

to. N r1 o 26, P f 2 a d 2 cala

2008 Big Rock Festival April 11, 12 & 13, 2008 The 3rd annual Big Rock Festival countdown has started.

Big Rock activities include live music around Puerto Natales, athletic competitions, beach clean-up races, and more.Three days of fun and music sponsored by multiple local businesses. Join locals and travelers alike for the end of the season blow out bash!

o En

Blanc

Aqua Nativa GymSea Kayak Patagonia nasium5% off any program (cash only) & Spa www.aquanativapatagonia.com

Eberhard 161 - Puerto Natales, Chile - ph 414143 This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a 1-hour massage. Valid season 2007-08.

10% cash discount massage

Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile ph. 414143

Southwind Hostel 5% off cash discount

erratic rock Free night if you can do 150 push-ups, non stop.

www.southwindhostel.cl

Eberhard 568, Puerto Natales, Chile

World’s End Books 5% off any cash purchase Maps - travel guides Patagonia books in English Blanco Encalada 226, Pto. Natales, Ph. 414725

Baquedano 719 Pto. Natales

www.erraticrock.com

Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa Gymnasium & Spa

15% off massage Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile

ph +56-61 412052

D ow n Tow n H o s t e l cash discount 10% off Address: Armando Sanhueza 555 Punta Arenas, Chile

5% cash discount off any café purchase ph +56-61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto. Natales

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Please

write us with your comments, experiences, opinions, photos or stories.

YOU & THE PINGO

We’ll make you famous. editor@patagoniablacksheep.com

HOTEL ALCAZAR

M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 hotelalcazar@gmail.com

...with all private bathrooms The warmest place in the coldest spot of the world.

Las Carretas HOSTEL

Mountain views from the less-traveled Pingo Trail

by CJ Wilson

Get ready to explore the lesser-known corners of Torres del Paine National Park. The Pingo River valley is just one option for scooting off the beaten path. It might be a bit harder to get to, but it does offer the benefits that come with less accessibility: far fewer humans, possibly more animal sightings and a stronger feeling of being in the wilderness.

To begin the journey, find a ride, or hike the road to Guarderia Lago Grey. Transfers here are quite expensive, but you may be able to hitch a ride.

We found ourselves, a group of three women, hiking in intense winds for about an hour, then easily found rides with other travelers, by splitting up.

There are two day hikes you can enjoy from Guardaria Grey, before heading up the Pingo River valley. One crosses a bridge and the sand flats, leading to a tiny island with a trail to a mirador. This is a good way to get views of Lago Grey, its icebergs and the Cuernos. The other day hike ascends steeply behind the Guarderia for about two hours, to arrive at Mirador Ferrier, offering grand views in clear weather.

Arriving at Lago Grey late in the day, we chose to camp nearby before heading to our ultimate camping destination, Campamento Zapata.The wellmarked trail from the end of the road leads gently to Campamento Pingo, less than an hour’s walk from the guarderia. It consists of an old baqueano puesto, which offers shelter from inclement weather or camping beside Rio Pingo.We enjoyed our meadow campsite, and ducked into the refugio for breakfast the next morning for a roof over our heads while a rainstorm passed through. Here we marveled at our second huemul sighting in two days. Incorporated into the national emblem in 1834, these Chilean

deer were hunted almost to extinction. After reintroduction, they are making a notable comeback in the park.

The following day we meandered through the Rio Pingo valley, through small meadows, and beautiful mature Lenga and Ñirre forests. Some of the common local flora along the way included: Calafate (in delicate yellow November bloom), poisonous Devil’s Strawberries (Frutilla del Diablo), Firebush (Ciruelillo, with its lovely red blossoms) and the Coigüe evergreen. You’ll also find many fascinating Chines Lanterns (Farolito Chino, the yellow-green parasitic plants growing in tree branches) and Old Man’s Beard (Barba del Viejo, the pale green beardlike growths on the bark of tree trunks.

The Torres del Paine map shows the distance to Campamento Zapata to be about 14 km.

The highest waterfall in the park, Cascada Pingo, is just off the main trail, about an hour from Zapata, in a large meadow. (The refugio burned down several years ago, another victim of a camper’s fire. )Once at Zapata, there’s lots of exploring to do. Follow markers along the windswept plateau to Mirador Zapata, for views of several glaciers, lakes and mountains, including Lago Pingo and Glaciar Pingo. The views of the west side of Paine Grande are also spectacular here.

If you find yourself tempted to cross the Rio de los Hielos, or river of ice, beware. Local experts caution that the river can rise very quickly, stranding hikers on the far side, and giving them a dangerous crossing between them and their campsite. Finally, Glaciar Pingo is an arm of the Southern Ice Field, Campo Hielo Patagonico Sur, which often creates its own weather, so be Patagonia-prepared.

Expect anything from spectacular sunshine to blasts of cold, snow or rain.You might just get a bit of everything, and it will all be worth it, as you enjoy exploring away from the main drags.

Galvarino 745, Puerto Natales, 56 61 414584 www.portalmagallanes.com/lascarretas Hostel Excursions Ascents Ranch Tourism Kayaking Horse Riding Welcome to the world of Adventure.

Welcome to Patagonic People Adventure.

Bulnes 280 Puerto Natales, Chile Phone 412014 www.patagonicpeopleadventure.com

568 Eberhard, Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 412766 reservas@southwindhostel.cl • www.southwindhostel.cl Downtown Puerto Natales, located a half block from the main square.

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open 12.30-15.00, 18.30-22.30

The sea & food restaurant L a d r i l l e r o s 1 0 5 - w a t e r f ro n t - Pu e r t o Na t a l e s - t e l . 0 6 1 6 1 5 7 3 0

Drinks & coffee with a view Ladrilleros 105 - waterfront - tel. 061 615 730 - open 12.30-01.00

Tierra del Fuego: Aventura, Emoción y Leyenda

¿De viaje por Patagonia? te animamos a conocer Tierra del Fuego Chilena hasta su extremo sur. La isla es misteriosa y fascinante con paisajes que emocionan y leyendas que hacen encender la imaginación de todos los aventureros.

Tierra del Fuego es compartida por Chile y Argentina, a los que les corresponde la parte occidental y oriental respectivamente. La parte oriental o de la Republica Argentina es visitada por miles de turistas que llegan hasta Ushuaia de todos los rincones del mundo; pero poco se sabe del “lado chileno,” ¿Que secretos esconde? la isla en su cara occidental va de pampa a bosque, cordillera y glaciares…y es posiblemente, la reserva natural más prístina de la Patagonia.

Porvenir la capital fueguina, es un buen lugar para comenzar tu aventura hacia el extremo sur de la isla; para ello te recomendamos arrendar una camioneta en Punta Arenas, contratar previamente el servicio de transporte con guía-conductor a una agencia o hacer el recorrido en bicicleta… sea cual sea tu decisión Porvenir es el ultimo lugar donde podrás comprar alimentos, cargar bencina (llevar unos bidones extras), sacar dinero de un redbanc y pedir toda la información que necesitas para tu viaje.

En Porvenir tienes restaurantes y hoteles, durante tu estadía te recomendamos visitar el museo Fernando Cordero Rusque, en el se exhibe una muestra fotográfica y arqueológica de los Onas u Selknam y Yaghanes, aborígenes extinguidos de la isla, información sobre el hallazgo y explotación del oro, una colección de retablos de las casas más bellas de Tierra del Fuego, así como una sección de historia natural, arqueología y etnografía. Otro buen panorama es el avistamiento de Delfines desde una lancha en Bahía Chilota…no te lo pierdas!!

Una vez rumbo al sur por el camino internacional, puedes visitar el Circuito del Oro, en el Cordón Baquedano, donde es posible obtener una vista espectacular del Estrecho de Magallanes,

además de visitar un área donde los pirquineros del lugar realizan extracción de oro. Puedes conocerlos y hablar con ellos de su historia y vida, además de comprobar in situ como se encuentran las pepitas de oro con la misma técnica que hace cien años

Continuando tu aventura hacia Onaisin, observa con atención cada hito histórico los que dan fe de un pasado en el cual la Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego, dejo importantes huellas. Veras por ejemplo en el sector de Bahía Inútil, el vestigio de lo que fue el Puerto Nuevo, donde existió una grasería dependiente de la ex estancia Caleta Josefina. En la actualidad se pueden apreciar restos de las instalaciones y numerosas máquinas.

En el km. 100, encontraras Onaisín o ex estancia Caleta Josefina, esta fue la primera estancia fundada en 1883 por la Sociedad Explotadora Tierra del Fuego. En el lugar aun se conservan algunos edificios y se puede visitar el Cementerio de Onaisín, que corresponde a pobladores y colonos. Fué declarado Monumento Nacional en 1976.

Durante tu travesía por la pampa te encontraras con la faena de esquila, la cual se realiza cada verano por una “comparsa” o grupo esquilador que recorre las estancias de Tierra del Fuego, extrayendo la lana de miles y miles de ovinos.

Un alto en el camino …

Cameron es un buen lugar para detenerse, comer o simplemente contemplar como transcurre la vida en los paisajes fueguinos, cuenta con Municipalidad, Carabineros, escuela y casa de huéspedes. Cameron nació sobre el casco de una antigua estancia fundada en 1904 por la Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego y bautizada con el nombre de uno de sus gerentes. Sus edificios exhiben la típica arquitectura promovida por los ingleses, con superficies revestidas de planchas y estampadas con ricas molduras.

Desde Cameron debes decidir tomar el camino por la costa que conduce a los aserraderos de

by Pilar Irribarra

Puerto Yartou, Río Cóndor (famoso por su pesca) y Puerto Arturo con buenos lugares para acampar o seguir hacia el sur por el camino que conduce a Lago Blanco, que se interna por la pampa y pasa por distintas “secciones” y “puestos” de la antigua estancia. En el camino se encuentra la inmensa draga aurífera que fue traída de Inglaterra en 1904 y funcionó hasta 1910. También estánlas instalaciones de la Sección Russfin y la Sección Río Grande--antiguas estancia--y las estancias Onamonte, Vicuña, Río Chico y Las Flores.

De la pampa al bosque y cordillera…

Al sur de Pampa Guanacos comienzan los bosques de lengas y también las castoreras. Los amantes de la pesca deportiva encuentran su paraíso en río Rasmussen y río Grande, además del bellísimo Lago Blanco.

Si deseas continuar hasta el final del camino debes retomar la ruta principal y seguir rumbo a lago Fagnano en el trayecto te maravillaras con los paisajes cordilleranos y puedes visitar Lago Deseado y Despreciado. Al llegar a Lago Fagnano, observaras como continúan los trabajos para abrir una de las sendas más inexploradas de Chile la ruta hacia Estancia Yendegaia que permitirá conectar con Puerto Williams. La tarea es difícil ya que hay que cruzar Cordillera de Darwin por lo que se estima que el proyecto completo demorara un par de años más.

Por el momento ya es un gran regalo poder llegar hasta los paisajes mágicos del Fagnano, aunque si eres un aventurero la ruta hasta Yendegaia la puedes continuar a caballo o realizar un Trekking de unos 5 días hasta la estancia.

Así finaliza el recorrido hacia el sur de la isla, al menos el tramo vehicular. En conclusión, si eres de aquellos que les gusta descubrir lugares donde la naturaleza se muestra salvaje y terminar el día en una fogata o pescando en agua cristalinas, Tierra del Fuego es tu destino…

DATOS PRACTICOS Vías de acceso a la isla: Vía Aérea. Existe una línea aérea que tiene más de una frecuencia diaria la cual dura aproximadamente 15 minutos desde Punta Arenas a Porvenir; en aviones tipo Twin - Otter o Cessna, dependiendo de la demanda.

Vía Terrestre. Para llegar a Porvenir es necesario cruzar el caudaloso Estrecho de Magallanes a Tierra del Fuego es necesario embarcar en los ferries que zarpan desde Tres Puentes, en la ciudad de Punta Arenas, o en la Primera Angostura, distante 170 kms de Punta Arenas, embarcaciones que tienen acomodaciones tanto para pasajeros como para vehículos.

Vía Marítima. Desde Punta Arenas se cruza el Estrecho de Magallanes en un trasbordador especialmente equipado para el transporte de pasajeros y vehículos. El trayecto dura 3 horas aproximadamente y tiene una frecuencia diaria.

Hoteles Tierra del Fuego •Hotel España croacia 698. Porvenir fax : (61) 580160 •Hostería Tunkelen arturo prat # 101 Cerro Sombrero. hosteria_tunkelen@hotmail.com •Alojamiento y excursiones. Sr. German Genkowski Tel. 61-216349.

Lago Fagnano, Tierra del Fuego •Hosteria Las Lengas.. Tel.61-211427.

Lago Blanco, Tierra del Fuego •Refugio de caza y pesca de ENAP. Tel.61211754-298386. Lago Blanco Tierra del Fuego •Almuerzo y cena en Cameron.

Sra Eufrocina Hernandez . Tel.216349 Agencias •Cordillera de Darwin Tel. 61-580167, infopatagonia@cordilleradedarwin.com •Turismo Yamana Tel. (56) 61 710 567 - 710 568, turismo@yamana.cl •Aquanativa Sea Kayak Tel. 61-415749. info@ aquanativapatagonia.com

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Cabo Froward What & Where is Cabo Froward?

Shoestring Trips 2007-08

As a special summer promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call “a getting back to our roots program.” These series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public. Program director Bill Penhollow explains, “We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power.

The problem is they just need someone to show them the way and they can’t afford typical high priced, guided luxury trips.”

The program runs weekly during the months of January, February and March and is six days in total. Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation from Punta Arenas to the trailhead and back. This is a self-sufficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays.

For more information about joining a Cabo Froward program contact erratic rock in Puerto Natales at 410355, www.erraticrock.com, or Aonikenk in Punta Arenas at 228332, www. aonikenk.com.

The Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays... and never anyone else on the trail.

The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off again. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the word ‘self-reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head.

There is no turning back, amigo.

The Cabo trek is really only possible from January-March.

Other times of the year you’re likely to run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. It’s a trek about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Plus, very few trekkers have ever been

to Cabo Froward.

The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched.

The views are incredible, not only of the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet, jutting straight out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones. The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the

continent. This trail will become a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina.

The project is expected to be completed in 2010.

The final goal is to reach the cross that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek isn’t for everyone. There is no help or contact with the world for days in any direction.The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self-supported trip can be called nothing less than extreme trekking.

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Jose Nogueira Hotel: An Audacious Piece of Punta Arenas History

by John Pomietlasz Long before the days of the Panama Canal, Punta Arenas was an international port of whale vessels, steam ships and sloops voyaging oceanic trade routes. It was the final provisioning depot before rounding Cape Horn and navigating the Strait of Magellan--the tumultuous passage that’s claimed more fleets than anywhere else in the world. What grew from the port’s ideal locale was a small epicenter of wealth, dominated by European immigrants who capitalized upon the white gold (sheep) of Magellan.

The Sara Braun Palace, located on the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas, represents the success Braun and her family enjoyed from the local sheep ranching trade.

The palace was converted 15 years ago into the exclusive José Nogueira Hotel and Club de la Unión restaurant that rooms and serves the world’s royal and elite. The mansion is a historical and cultural relic of the wool boom.

The new policy brought an influx of foreign immigration seeking new wealth.

And in turn, Punta Arenas experienced some commercial growth. One of the most prominent pioneers was Portuguese José Nogueira, who arrived in Punta Arenas in 1876 with only knowledge of the open waters and a knack for hunting sea lions.

Sheep-raising in the vast Patagonian lands was a novel concept at the end of the 1800s. The first small group of sheep brought to the area was in 1852.

However, it wasn’t until 1877 when another Chilean governor bought a group of 300 sheep from the Falkland Islands to Punta Arenas that Nogueira realized the potential for the market. Just three years after the governor’s import, Nogueira bought his first consignment of sheep. His herd was sheered annually. After evaluating and baling the wool, they shipped it to Europe where it bolstered stronger prices. In this simple manner, he became the pioneer of the wool production industry.

Also during this time, Nogueira met and married a young Lithuanian named Sara Braun.

In 1889, Noguiera acquired 180,000 hectares of Tierra del Fuego land from the Chilean government. One year later, he successfully lobbied another Tierra del Fuego acquisition: an unheard of 20-year lease of 1,000,000 hectares (over 3,400

square miles). This contract also commenced his enterprize, La Sociedad Explotadora del Tierra Del Fuego. Note that explotadora in the company’s name means “one who exploits.” Noguiera died in 1893, leaving the estate to his wife.From then on, Braun and her brother Mauricio Braun Del Telsen, who also worked in Punta Arenas as a cattle breeder, controlled the business to market-commanding success.

The brother and sister team wasted little

Pounds, because the majority of their business was done in England. They also established a primary office in Valparaiso to maintain steady contact with the financial and political establishments. Their economic stronghold on the market grew as they began to buy out competitors and private owners throughout Patagonia. Until the decline of the wool industry in the 1940s, they controlled over 10,000 square kilometers of Patagonian land.

time expanding. The barren Patagonian pampas to the north were considered worthless by most, but La Sociedad sought them extensively for sheep herding.

Over the next few years, they developed estancias, which required some basic infrastructure: roads, fences, barns and a few houses. By 1897 La Sociedad ran two large estancias, had 72,000 sheep and was claiming substantial profits. To avoid uncertainties in fluctuations of exchange rates, the company redenominated their working capital into sterling

These clever business practices made way for the construction of the Braun mansion.

Construction began in 1895 under Braun’s instruction. She hired French architect Numa Mayer to design and build the palace. She spared no expense and had all of the construction materials and ornamental pieces shipped from Europe. The twostory Parisian style mansion’s most notable feature is the metallic façade on the northwest side of the house.

It served as a pergola winter garden where plants

and vines draped across elaborate trelliswork. The house’s exterior was constructed of masonry brick on a stone foundation and roofed with galvanized iron tiles. Complete with polished wood floors and marble fireplaces, the remainder of the estate was decorated with Tiffany lamps, Flemish tapestries and handmade European furniture. Completion took ten years, and it was finished in 1905.

However, all this profit and mansion building came with a human cost.

Colonization and profit-grubbing actions of the company, acquisitions of rural Patagonia came with human loss. Thousands of indigenous people inhabiting the area were constantly displaced and pushed out of their homelands, often to reservations where they ultimately perished. The company viewed the indigenous communities as obstacles to their success.The native tribes whose livelihood was hunting guanaco began to hunt sheep instead, because they were much easier targets. In turn, colonials claimed it was necessary to protect their herds and outright killed thousands of natives with hired bounty hunters. It’s even rumored that Braun bought the already-removed ears of natives, and housed the collection in the basement of her mansion. Other indigenous people were unable to adapt to the new lifestyle or died from European diseases.

Today, the palace with all its heavy history houses the Jose Nogueira Hotel and Club de la Union. It reopened its doors in 1992, following 40 years of renovation. The process was delicate and extensive, but the house was returned to its original state of brilliance. For the purposes of serving guests, the living spaces were converted into 23 rooms and 5 suites. And in maintaining the integrity of the mansion’s uniqueness, the structure was adapted without compromising its original structure.

To this, the hotel asserts that each room has its own personality.The winter garden was converted into the dining room, and it serves an array of international cuisines. In 1981, the building was declared a Chilean National Monument, which prohibits any further modification.

Hosteria Tunkelen Cerro Sombrero, Tierra del Fuego The only real rest stop between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia.

Arturo Prat 101, Cerro Sombrero, TdF, Chile - Phone 56+61 296696 or 56+61 212757 - hosteria_tunkelen@hotmail.com

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Agricultural News A row of East Friesland sheep, with their trademark bare legs and long, rat-like and wool-free tails. Their faces are long with forward-pointing ears and don’t have fleece either.

Sheep in Short: A Little History

B

The Happiest Cheese in the World

by Heather Poyhonen

In 1996, the University of Magallanes, The cheese must be aged for one and a Puerto Natales Extension bought 32 borregas (young half to two months, and up to six months--the longer ewes) and 4 carnerillos (young rams) of the East having the better flavor. It stays fresh anywhere up to Friesland stock from El Bolsón, Argentina. With this two years. But because of the high demand for cheese purchase, the university launched the Proyecto de to feed hungry tourists during the trekking season Ovejas Lecheras to start producing sheep cheese in (Oct.-Apr.), hotels and El Emporio, the local cheese Ultima Esperanza Province. These are the only sheep and wine shop, often buy out last season’s cheese in in the region used for milk; the rest are used for wool October. This cheese-buying frenzy leaves a deficit, and/or meat. After 11 years after the start of the where they run out of cheese in November and have project, Engineer of Renewable Natural Resources to wait for the current season’s cheese to be ready.

Marcela Vera walks me around the hillside pasture. The university expects cheese to be available again Rain and hail pummel the East Frieslands, as they starting around December 20. This will kick off the hunker down with stiff bodies and bowed necks, 2007/8 season of Patagonian sheep cheese, which huddling together behind small erratic bushes. Their should realize about 400kg. trademark bear legs, butts and tails skinnily hold up And what makes Patagonian cheese so their wet wool. But the special, you ask? Well, it Friesland breed of sheep tastes like it’s from Patagonia. aren’t raised for their wool Marcela says,“Everything in or meat; they’re born to be the immediate environment milked. goes into cheese-making.”

Marcela has been The type of grass the sheep with the project since 2004, eat effects how their milk and she tells me a bit about tastes. By extension, the their intensive routine. They region’s soil effects the - Spanish proverb currently have 94 sheep, quality, quantity and type made up of young sheep, gimmers, ewe and rams, of grass. “On the way to Puerto Natales from Punta and as of October, they have about 82 lambs of less Arenas, you might notice how brown the steppe is. than 6 months. Every morning, they take the sheep But once you start to arrive to Ultima Esperanza, the out to pasture at 7:30, where the lambs stick close to grass is greener, and the soil is rich. Additionally, if the their mothers suckling milk all day until about 4:30, weather is particularly bad and they sheep are stressed, when they bring the sheep in for the night. At this it effects their milk yield. “It’s a delicate balance,” point, the lambs are separated from the ewes, and the Marcela says. “A lot of rain can be bad for the sheep, ewes are milked once more before bedtime. Most but, then, it’s so good for the grass. Everything has its estancias, mind, leave their sheep and other cattle out good part and everything has its bad part.” Finally, the in the fresh air 24/7. But the Friesland, which have ewes are machine milked, which lessens the sheepy their origins in Holland, are a bit more sensitive to taste that often remains from hand-milking. changes in temperature and weather. Basically, the You can find tastes of your own crazy Patagonian climate takes its toll on the ovine Patagonian sheep milk in El Emporio, Puerto Natales population, and every year they lose new lambs to hotel restaurants, or you can visit the university pneumonia and other weather-related sicknesses. itself (Camino Puerto Bories, Kilometer 1.5), and

Annually, the sheep caretakers vigilantly get a whiff of the entire process for yourself. It’s a balance the cycle of breeding, milking, and cheese- lovely short bike ride on the way to Puerto Bories making. In May, they put the ewes and rams together or Cueva del Milodón, a long relaxed walk along to mate, with a ratio of 30 ewes per single ram. the sound, or a quick jot in a taxi. Vera is happy to This might sound like a lot, but the ratio increases show folks around, and you can buy cheese directly even more in larger estancias. About 155 days or from the university starting in late December. This five months later in October, the ewes give birth to year they’re experimenting with fine herbs.You’ll still single, twin or triplet lambs. (East Friesland sheep are find traditional sheep cheese, but if your taste buds known for being prolific; most sheep only have single crave something even more exotic, you’ll be able to offspring.) At the end of January, after three months, sate them with basil, arugula or dill sheep cheese, they start weaning the lambs. The lambs usually lose depending on your fancy. about 15 kilos of body weight, but regain it back again quickly. That the lambs are now weaned means a larger milk harvest from the ewes.

Cheese from the ewe Milk from the goat Butter from the cow

y looking at the landscape salted with sheep and, in springtime, jumping lambs, you’d think the downy buggers were native to Patagonia. But they’re not. They were introduced to the region in 1877 when the area’s territorial governor Don Diego Duble Almeyda authorized the purchase of 300 sheep from the Falkland Islands. The venture proved successful, the sheep multiplied, and other entrepreneurs followed suit, making way for the era of white gold.

The most notable pioneers were the powerful moguls Jose Menendez from Spain and his son-in-law Moritz Braun from Lithuania. They started as rivals, but ended up joining forces to slaughter the competition, developing an empire of estancias, freezers, department stores and the list

goes on.

By the turn of the century, nearly two million animals grazed in the region, and by the 1930s the number of sheep rocketed to about 16 million. Cheap immigrant labor (Croats, English, French, German, Irish, Italians, Scots, Spaniards and others) fed the wool boom, making Patagonian wool cheap enough to undercut all competition and give the owners loads of dough.

However, a century of overgrazing crippled the food supply, killing many of the wooly specs on the horizon. Then in 1991 the eruption of Mount Hudson hurled ash upon the Patagonian steppe, lowering the population of sheep even more.

All this, while the demand for wool plummeted.

Today there are thought to be about 2-3 million sheep in the region.

Little Known Sheep Facts - The number of teeth sheep have can determine their age. Lambs start out with eight milk teeth. When the lamb is 1 year old, it grows its first 2 permanent teeth.

At 2 years, it has 4 teeth, at 3 years, it has 6 teeth, and at 4 years of age, the sheep has what’s called a “full mouth,” with 8 teeth. Once any of the permanent teeth are lost, the sheep has a “broken mouth.” Finally, when the sheep is so old it has lost all its teeth, completing the cycle of life, it’s called a “gummer.”

- Many people on the bus ride from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales wonder what the spray-painted markings on the sheep mean. Well, we’ve heard several answers for this question, and they all turn out to be accurate.

•

•

• • •

Post-sheep dip: After shearing the sheep, they get a chemical bath to kill all the mites and vermin living on their bodies. They get painted to know which sheep have already been dipped.

Pimp-ram marking:To discern which ram is papa to all the newborn lambs. The marking is on the underside of the ram, so when he mounts the ewe, he’ll leave his marking on her backside.

Sheep-age: Markings by the number of years they’ve spent on this earth, which can be figured from their number of teeth.

Next in line to the slaughterhouse...

Er, which sheep are mine again?

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Now by popular demand...

erratic rock

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punta arenas

cell 77455810 Errázuriz 567, second floor, Punta Areans, Chile ...rock on!

Locally owned & operated.

Coffee Shop Souvenirs Horseback Rides ovejeropatagonico@gmail.com +56-61-691932 Cerro Castillo - Torres del Paine

Blue Green Adventures www.bluegreenadventures.com

Torres del Paine

Trekking programs

wa s h i n g w i t h d i r t Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat; the grease on meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. We need it for energy while trekking.

A couple of facts: 1) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use these products at all. 2) Cold stream or lake water turns left over greases on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue (impossible to remove without soap & water)... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fist-full of dirt, and scrub! The small granuals of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any difficult foods. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap free!

phone 56-61 410009

The Milodon Laundry Service

Drop your pants here.

Drop off before noon for same-day service.

Closed Sundays.

Open 10am-12pm & 2:30pm-8:00pm Phone 413466 • Baquedano 642

Cámara de Turismo de Última Esperanza les da la bienvenida y les desea un buen viaje Phillipi 600, mod.28. Pueblito Artesanal www.camaraturismoue.com camaraturismoue@yahoo.es - Fono 415721

by Marjan Alkema

There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma. But then there are also those day trippers who take a strolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly come eye to eye with a puma. But what to do if you actually get to see a puma?

1. Most important, don’t run! The puma might think you’re a juicy (and easy to catch) boxed lunch to go.

With a puma, the slogan “act like a victim, become a victim,” holds true.

2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win. One small, even nonlethal wound to a puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. Make a lot of noise, too. Use jackets or bags (or whatever else you may think of at this moment) to hold over your head for appearance’s sake.

3. And last of all, but not least important… smile.

(This may be difficult depending on your proximity to the puma.) Take a moment to realize how lucky you really are for winning the lottery.

Seminar io “Tur ismo Sustentable y Medio Ambiente”

Departing weekly 990 UDS

Bulnes 1200 Puerto Natales, Chile

Puma Lottery

A fines del mes de noviembre la Cámara de Turismo de Ultima Esperanza realizó el Seminario “Turismo Sustentable y Medio Ambiente” en el marco del Proyecto “Puerto Natales: Ciudad Limpia”, la jornada de reflexión se llevó a cabo en el centro de eventos Cormorán de las Rocas” y tuvo por finalidad establecer una instancia de aprendizaje donde se pudo intercambiar experiencias y aclarar conceptos sobre “Sustentabilidad”.

Al encuentro fueron convocados dåistintos actores del área: expertos en ecoturismo, gestores públicos, catedráticos, estudiantes y empresarios; los que analizaron las ventajas comparativas y competitivas de realizar una actividad turística sustentable, entendiendo esta como viajar o visitar áreas naturales con el fin de disfrutar, apreciar y estudiar los atractivos naturales de dichas áreas, así como cualquier manifestación cultural que pueda encontrarse ahí, a través de un proceso que promueve la conservación, con bajo impacto ambiental y cultural, y propiciando un involucramiento activo y socio-

económico en beneficio de las poblaciones locales.

Los expositores del seminario fueron, el Profesor Franz Schulte del Instituto de Turismo de la Universidad Austral; la Ilustre Municipalidad de Puerto Natales; la Sra.Claudia Polo, abogada y el Profesor José Leal, Director del Magíster “Medio Ambiente y Desarrollo Sustentable” de la Universidad Mayor. Todos ellos desde su experticia expusieron sobre la importancia del turismo sustentable, definiendo un nuevo planteamiento que tiende a evitar daños y problemas que pueda causar un desarrollo descontrolado y sin límites.

La gestión de la conservación del patrimonio y de las actividades turísticas debería proporcionar beneficios equitativos de carácter económico, social y cultural a los hombres y mujeres de la comunidad anfitriona, a todo nivel, a través, de la educación, la formación y la creación de oportunidades de empleo de tal manera de satisfacer las necesidades de la generación presente, sin comprometer la capacidad de las generaciones futuras de satisfacer sus propias necesidades.

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A straight shot of tradition

Each time you visit a different country, one question always comes to mind: “What’s the food like there?”

In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry.

You might even be able to taste guanaco, ñandu, boar or beaver. Of course, you’ll find these dishes in non-traditional restaurants or at family houses or hostels. You’ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means they are very keen on making drinks based on pisco.

Pisco Sour • • • • •

3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes

Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add icing sugar to taste, the egg white and ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour. ¡Bienvenidos y provecho!

The road less traveled Dumestre Road, Puerto Natales, Chile

In just a half day of biking, you can have a “so close, but so far” view of Puerto Natales and its surroundings. All you need is a bike, a picnic and your camera!

If you follow the road by the sea, going in the exact opposite direction of everyone else (who will all be going to the park), you will pass the main dock. Keep pedalling until the pavement turns into dirt. When you get to where all the fishing boats are, you will have to turn down some streets, but always try to keep closest to the sea (if you get lost, just ask anyone how to get to “el camino a Dumestre”).

You will reach a dirt road out of town, and as you get farther away from the town, all of the mountains will start to show you how tremendous they really are, and how endless they seem by the sea. The farther you get, the greater your view of the different mountains will be.

You’ll see Tenerife, Prat, Chacabuco, Ballena, Cordillera Moore, and even the Caín Mountains of the beautiful Roca Península.

Sought after Isla Navarino info

by Marieke den Nijs

Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet is scarce. This is a pity, since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature-loving tourists.

Enviu, a Chilean/Dutch NGO, has currently been working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed toward local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation of various web sites. During a two-month period Enviu carried out practical workshops, in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that yet existed, four new websites have been put online.

If interested, check out these new web sites and learn more about the various tourism services available in Puerto Williams...

• www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours • www.refugioelpadrino.com - Accomodation • www.hostalpusaki.com - Accomodation • www.albatrospub.com - Food

For more information on the work of Enviu, visit www.enviu.org.

Cave paintings near Puerto Natales ETNO Natural Park

The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers.

The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23.

The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.

Flavors of Chile: Pastel de Choclo

Guided water tours of Glacier Balmeceda • Glacier Serrano • Bernardo O’Higgins National Park

A piece of Patagonian history...

Turismo “21 de Mayo” Puerto Natales Patagonia Chile Eberhard 560 • Phone 56-61 614420 • www.chileaustral.com/21demayo • 21demayo@chileaustral.com

Call center Books & Maps Postcards & Stamps Souvenirs

ÑANDÚ Hand Crafts

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 - 413360

Cerro Castillo - Coffee shop & money exchange ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

Hotel Posada Tres Pasos Your country hotel...

by CJ Wilson

A traditional Chilean dish, Pastel de Choclo reminds me of a Chilean version of Shepherd’s Pie. It’s got a base of ground beef, with a few other ingredients layered in, and a topping of ground up choclo, or corn. This recipe is from Marcela Morales Cordero.

Ingredients...

• ½ kilo ground beef (pasto molido) • 1 medium onion finely chopped • 1 green pepper, sliced or chopped • 4 chicken legs or wings • 2 hard-boiled eggs • 2 cloves chopped garlic • 3 bags frozen ground corn (choclo molido), heated in water to almost boiling • Salt, oregano, cumin, parsely

Optional ingredients...

• 1 vegetable flavor cube • 8-10 pitted, halved olives • Handful of raisins Sauté onion, pepper and garlic; then add ground beef and simmer until well done. Add salt, oregano, cumin and parsley to taste. Boil the chicken until well-cooked. In a 9x9 baking pan, layer the ground beef, then slice hard-boiled eggs and scatter them on top. Remove the chicken from the bone, and spread chunks on top of the mixture. (Here’s where you’d sprinkle on the olives and raisins, if desired.)

Pour round corn over top; there should be a good thick layer of it. Heat in oven at medium heat for about 30 minutes. ¡Buen provecho!

Tel:(56) (2) 1969630

reservas@hotel3pasos.cl Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile

December.07

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Trail Etiquette

Climber scaling the new wall at UMAG Natales, located on the beautiful Last Hope Sound. We know you might be thinking that we superimposed the wall onto a mountainscape foto, but this is the real thing.We swear.

Patagonian Spirit

Restaurant Bar Café Happy Hour Sun. thru Tue. 7pm-12am Wed. thru Sat. 7pm-10pm

O’Higgins 1021 Punta Arenas, Chile Tel 245851 jekus.patagonia@gmail.com www.aquanativapatagonia.com

Aqua Nativa Sea Kayak Patagonia

Travel.

Discover.

Paddle.

Live.

Eberhar d 161 Puer to Natales, Chile ph 414143

Free Climbing Wall in Natales, With Mountain Views

The University of Magallanes Puerto Natales Campus opened up a new climbing wall on August 30. It’s 8.5 meters high (~28 feet), with three faces varying in difficulty. So if you’re looking forward to climbing the Torres or bouldering in Cerro Dorotea but would like to test out your climbing arms beforehand, head on over to UMAG Natales (Camino Puerto Bories, Kilometer 1.5).

Wall hours are Monday through Friday, 09.00-13.00 and 15.00-19.00. And it’s free! Once you get to the university, visit the office, let them know you want to climb the wall, and sign a waiver.

You’ll need to make sure there are at least two of you

doing the climb. They even have equipment you can borrow (ropes, harnesses, carabiners), though it’s always a better idea to bring your own if you have it. Enjoy the spectacular views of Seno Ultima Esperanza and the surrounding mountain ranges.

Getting there...

Follow the road on the way to Torres del Paine for about 1.5 km (almost 1 mile). Turn right at the Remota driveway, but instead of going left for Remota, take the right fork in the road and follow it up the hill to the university parking lot.

On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by easily, without compromising the vegetation. If taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass by without even knowing you’re there. Everybody keeps their sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.

While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision.

Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time.

Sticking to the trails is important.

Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or puddle only widens the trail, or it creates a second, or sometimes third trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well.

Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.

ADVENTURES OF SHIPOOPOI II

When I came down here in 2002 to climb in Torres del Paine, I’d already had three expeditions in the park under my belt. The last two trips had been devoted entirely to climbing routes on the Towers. Although I’d been schooled by the weather on a number of occasions, they remained a siren, calling me back to their sheer granite faces. And with the defeats came a few precious summits that challenged me in many ways. Somehow, climbing here just felt right. All those years spent cutting my teeth on the faces of Half Dome and El Capitan in California’s Yosemite Valley had prepared me for the raddest adventures of my life, down here in Patagonia.

My climbs in 2002 were no exception. I intended to make a big wall route on Escudo, a huge mother of a wall across the valley from the Towers. But my partners didn’t click, and I found myself climbing, interestingly enough, alone for the rest of the trip. My goal changed to attempt to solo all three Towers in a single push. I guess I was too blonde to realize that this was going to be even harder than it looked. But soloing alone in Paine was a natural extension for me. I’d done it on El Cap, why not here? I would use a rope to protect myself on the harder sections, and then climb ropeless where the terrain relaxed to easier 5th-class climbing. I could have free soloed more, but my head couldn’t handle the exposure, and I couldn’t justify the risk.

On my first try, I smoked up the monzino, the normal route on the North Tower, in just 75 minutes from the Col Bich, the gunsight notch easily visible between the North and Central Towers. The first pitch, or ropelength, had been difficult.The wall soared nearly overhanging during one section of 5.10, where I splayed my legs out wide on each side of a dihedron, taking care not to slip on sections of verglas. But there where lots of pitons, so I’d been able to move safely.

Further on, the angle lessened to a point where I didn´t need the rope. I carried it on my back, quickly zigzagging up steep but easy terrain.

The summit block of the North Tower is an amazing gendarme, 20 meters high, and overhanging

on all sides. Luckily, the Italians, on the first ascent of the peak in 1958, had pioneered a way directly up the front via a series of 5.8 edges. I roped up again, enjoying the security of my fingers on the rough edges. On top I was elated, but I had only just started.

The Central and South Towers loomed above, beckoning me. This traverse looked more vertical than horizontal. I quickly descended and started up the Bonington-Whillans route on the Central Tower, and by nightfall I was about halfway up the climb. I made a bivouac on a ledge, without any sleeping gear, shivering most of the night and awaking to a storm. Time to get the hell Self-portrait of Steve out of dodge, so I began the long arduous descent in high winds, horizontal snow and extreme cold that froze my water bottle.When I got back to camp I was hammered from the effort, but exhilirated by the experience.

For the next several weeks, this pattern would continue, me throwing myself at the Towers, and getting thwarted by the weather every single try.

I learned the nuances of the routes on my first two climbs, so I was able to move faster with less gear, gradually increasing my times on the first two towers. But I could never get a good two-day weather window. Plus it was dangerous; I had nearly been sliced by rockfall during one of my descents.Yet I felt compelled to keep trying, as if it were my destiny to master this trifecta. I had the feeling that I was like a small pawn in a chess game, and the Towers were the kings and queens, pushing me all around. Finally, it all came together in February of 2002. I banged out the North Tower in 41 minutes, and climbed the entire Central Tower in just 7:19. From here, I began the descent down the other side of the Central Tower, where I made it down just

by Steve Schneider

Sneider in his office before dusk. For the third time this season, I made an open bivouac, with no sleeping bag or stove. This was a necessary evil of my plan, for if I had taken this extra gear, I would have been forced to slow down to make the traverse.

At first light I jumped onto the South Tower, and took the only fall of this climb, a 20-foot tumble into the talus, ripping out a piece of fixed pro. Luckily, I was unhurt, and tried again, climbing a few feet to the right.The first thousand feet of the normal north ridge route of the South Tower goes up steep, black, intimidating rock, so I had to slow down to be safe. This wall gave way to a low, angled ridge, almost 1500 feet long, with spectacular views down either side. I measured progress against the Central Tower behind me. I sunk my hands into splitter cracks, and feeling good, moved fast up 5.6 to 5.8 ground. After a few hours it was all over, and I was on top with a dream realized, achieving the climb in 9:25 hours. I still had a long way to get back to camp, but the weather looked good, and I knew I’d be fine.

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Patagonia’s First Lady of Tourism

by Sarah Anderson

...a hostel alternative for couples...

erratic rock 2 Bed & Breakfast benjamin zamora 732

puerto natales ph +56 61 414317

www.erraticrock.com

“PATAGONIA! Who would ever think of going to such a place?” asked friends of the young Lady Florence Dixie before she set off on her trip in 1878. “What on earth makes you choose such an outlandish part of the world to go to? What can be the attraction?” Dixie’s reply may strike a chord with some of the current visitors to Patagonia. “Precisely because it was an outlandish place and so far away, I chose it. Palled for the moment with civilisation and its surroundings, I wanted to escape somewhere where I might be as far removed from them as possible.”

Lady Florence Dixie is considered to be the first tourist to visit Torres del Paine. There had been various expeditions to Patagonia during the 19th century but hers was the first trip made purely for pleasure. Vastly different from the trips made nowadays, she recorded her journey in the book, Across Patagonia (1880), part hunting log and part travel journal. The party consisted of her husband, her two brothers and Julius Beerbohm (whose book, Wanderings in Patagonia: Life Among the Ostrich Hunters, had just been published). They set off from Punta Arenas in mid-December 1878, with four local guides, some 50 horses and one servant, first bordering the Strait of Magellan then heading north until they reached the eastern section of Torres del Paine. They hunted anything that moved and ate almost everything they killed.

Many passages in the book are given over to describing the hunts and the subsequent meals, complete with recipes!

To the modern reader, the hunting might appear excessive, with a list that includes rhea ostrich (ñandues), guanacos, birds and ducks, pumas, foxes, a mountain cat, a huemul, and even a condor. Their skins, furs and feathers were taken home as trophies and the meat was eaten. But interestingly, toward the end of the book, Dixie herself kills a huemul and is filled with regret: “For many a day I was haunted by a sad remorse for the loss of that innocent and trusting life, which had hitherto remained in innocence of the annihilating propensities of man.”

The party rode across the pampas and reached as far as Sierra Baguales, the wild horse canyon with wonderful jagged peaks to the east of the park, before turning toward the mountains.

Dixie was fascinated with the towers which she likened to Cleopatra’s Needle, a monument in London. “The three red peaks... their white glaciers, with the clouds resting on them, were all mirrored to marvellous perfection in the motionless lake whose crystal waters were of the most extraordinarily brilliant blue... and exactly in its centre stood a little green island with a clump of beech trees growing on it.” They spent several days trying to get closer but had to turn back as their supplies were running low and there could be no hunting in the mountains. The lake she described is now known as Laguna Azul, and the island in the middle is named after her.

At the beginning of the trip they talk of “roughing it” and they certainly did not enjoy

the comfort of a typical safari. They had two basic tents but often had to sleep in the open air, due to the wind. They slept on guanaco fur bed rolls and used their saddles as pillows. They all helped with the camp chores, and they often spent all day riding. They survived various steppe fires and an earthquake as well as enduring “the drenching rains, the scorching sun, the pitiless mosquitoes, and the terrible blasting winds.” On the way back to Punta Arenas they were without food for several days being unable to find anything to hunt and having lost their last food supplies.

As the first tourist, she left a reminder of her visit: “Before leaving our camp we carved our names on one of the trees and erected a cairn on the top of which we left a bottle--the only emblem of civilisation we could spare.” She also took home a souvenir (beyond the furs and hides), a dog who had joined their party halfway through the trip. Despite having never once taken part in a hunt, “Pucho” endeared himself to her and he was taken back to Scotland and accompanied her, while she wrote her book, “sitting in the cosiest corner by [her] fire.”

The book, with illustrations from sketches by Julius Beerbohm, was a surprising best seller when it was published in 1880. They’d planned a trip to the Arctic next but never went on it due to a lack of funds. She then went on to cover the Zulu wars as the war correspondent for the London Morning Post interviewing the recently dethroned King Cetswayo. She became interested in a variety of different causes and wrote frequently about the rights of women.

Most surprisingly she became a vegetarian in the 1890s and wrote passionately against hunting and the cruel blood sports she had once enjoyed before publishing The Horrors of Sport in 1891.

Born in Scotland, in 1855, Florence was the daughter of the Marquis of Queensberry.

Her life was marked by tragedy and loss. Her father killed himself when she was 3 years old and a brother died in a climbing accident when she was 8. Her mother coped with these losses by taking the children travelling in Europe, a habit Florence got used to. Later on, her twin Jim, who had accompanied her on the trip, also committed suicide. Her other brother took Oscar Wilde to court involving the family in a scandalous trial.

Her husband was addicted to gambling and drinking, and they lost their home due to debts.

Dixie herself died at the relatively young age of 50, crippled by arthritis. She was buried in an unmarked plot on her family’s estate in Scotland.

Her book and that of Julius Beerbohm, are both still in print and available in English and Spanish. They remain unique accounts of how Patagonia was before the colonizers arrived, “a land of the lonely plains, where the guanaco and ostrich and the Red Indians roam far from the ken of mankind and where I spent a careless, happy time which I can never forget.”

www.cormorandelasrocas.com

On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret ph 56-61-413723 cormorandelasrocas@gmail.com

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Lake District & Patagonia

56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl Si tu destino es El Calafate, Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...

Foto de Ecocamp, la única compania con la certificación ecológica ISO 14001 en todo Sud America.

Photo of Ecocamp, the only company in all of South America with the ecological certification ISO 14001.

Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar

Cyberplay Super-fast Internet Printing & scanning Call center Café Baquedano 480. ph: 614193 Open all day. 09.00-23.00

Nueva Imagen Gymnasium & Spa machine & free weights sauna sun bed Massage room Chocolate Therapy Eusebio Lillo 1417 Puerto Natales, Chile

ph +56-61 412052

Ecolodge: Una Opción de Turismo Sustentable en el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine by Sebastian Gomez

Hoteleria y Turismo Ecolodge es una empresa de ecoturismo, por este motivo toda actividad que realizamos es evaluada por el impacto ambiental que causa en nuestro entorno. Debemos ser responsables ante el medio ambiente y la sociedad por ese motivo nos proyectamos como una empresa de hotelería y turismo innovadora y apegada a principios internacionales del ecoturismo. Ofrecemos servicios y actividades turísticas de alta calidad en una manera ambiental, económica y socialmente sustentable.

Queremos siempre superar las expectativas que nuestros clientes tienen al iniciar su viaje con nosotros. Para consolidarnos como una empresa modelo--a nivel mundial--de hotelería y servicios turísticos en áreas ambientalmente frágiles como son los parques, reservas y santuarios naturales. Nuestra intención es crear un prototipo ecológico.

El ecoturismo, sin duda, transforma el paisaje pero el problema no radica en dicha transformación, sino mas bien en su carácter e intensidad, así conservar el medio ambiente no debe significar mantenerlo intacto e inalterable, sino que debe de buscarse la conservación de la especificidad y originalidad de sus elementos constituyentes, sin cuestionar su

carácter dinámico.

Con esto se demuestra que la incompatibilidad entre turismo y medioambiente es un problema de modelo o de planteamiento del desarrollo turístico. Por eso nos preguntamos constantemente como mantener ese equilibrio, por eso que buscamos soluciones ambientalmente sustentables, ya sea en la arquitectura de los domos que usamos en el ecocamp, el compostaje de la materia orgánica, através, de lombrices canadienses, usamos energía hidráulica y eólica, realizamos manejo de basura y de residuos, hacemos una fuerte campaña de conduccón segura de nuestras vans y vehículos, lo que da como resultado final una minimización de los impactos ambientales. Somos buscadores de nuevas tecnologías y procedimientos que nos ayuden a lograr nuestro objetivo. Ese es el corazón de nuestro proyecto, el modelo de negocio genera un círculo virtuoso y permite conservar para el futuro los lugares en que intervenimos.

Explicamos a nuestros clientes que la comodidades o lujos (energía, baños, calefacción, comidas variadas, transporte) siempre llevaran como resultado algún grado de contaminación en aguas, aire, ruido, fauna, vegetación, queramos o no. Pedi-

Aquaterra Café

mos a nuestros clientes estar dispuestos a consumir el mínimo de energía, usar baños compartidos, minimizar el uso de plásticos, aceptar nuestro código de conducta ambiental, para que comprendan que ellos son una parte principal de la conservación y que gracias a su esfuerzo y el nuestro podremos mantener este parque.

Estamos preocupándonos de todo tipo de detalles que puedan generar algún tipo de cambio en la naturaleza y ese compromiso debe ser entendido durante nuestros viajes. Logramos la Certificación ISO14001 por la empresa Certificadora SGS (www. sgs.cl) lo que es un gran reconocimiento a nuestro trabajo.

Como empresa queremos que otros empresarios y el gobierno vean en nuestro proyecto una vía de como desarrollar turismo en ambientes frágiles, que tomen nuestra experiencia y que el resultado sea mejores proyectos, con mejor tecnología a favor del medio ambiente. Que busquemos la forma de siempre generar turismo pensando en el impacto inmediato y como nuestras organizaciones pueden trabajar por el bien del medio ambiente.

FREE

The sweetest thing

views from the window

el Living. La Plaza. Pto Natales.

Bookings for Hosterias, Lodges, Shuttles, Navegation to Torres del Paine and more...

Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

pathagone@entelchile.net Eberhard 595 • ph 56 61 413291

Jorge Montt 847 Fono 56-61-222774 Punta Arenas, Patagonia Chilena info@hostalbustamante.cl www.hostalbustamante.cl

KAWESKAR Backpackers Hostel Backpackers shall inherate the earth...

Blanco Encalada 754 Puerto Natales, Chile phone 414553

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Local Horse Guide Directory in Alphabetical Order

Horses.

Get in touch with your inner gaucho.

Baqueano Zamora

Baquedano 534, Pto. Natales (56-61) 613530-613531 www.baqueanozamora.com ventasbaqueanozamora@123.cl

Blue Green Adventure

Bulnes 1200, Pto. Natales (56 61) 410009 www.bluegreenadventures.com info@bluegreenadventures.com

Camping Rio Serrano (56-61) 412370 www.campingchile.com info@campingchile.com

Chile Nativo

Criollo Expediciones

Camino Puerto Bories Km 3.5 Calle No. 1, Huerto Familiar, 157-B Puerto Natales (56) 9 88 107 121 www.criolloexpeditions.cl info@criolloexpeditions.com

Estancia Cerro Guido Comuna Torres del Paine (56-61) 21964807 www.lodgecerroguido.cl

Estancia Perales

Eberhard 560, Pto. Natales (56-61) 411978-411176 www.bagualesgroup.com info@bagualesgroup.com

Estancia Rio Los Ciervos Jose Nogueira 1255, Punta Arenas (56-61) 262281-710219 www.soloexpediciones.com contacto@soloexpediciones.com

Estancia Travel

Puerto Bories 13-B, Pto. Natales (56-61) 412221 www.estanciatravel.com info@estanciatravel.com

Estancia Tres Pasos

Km. 38 Norte, Torres del Payne (56-2) 1969630 reservas@hotel3pasos.cl

Eberhard 230, Casilla 42, Natales (56-61) 411835-415474 www.chilenativo.com info@chilenativo.com

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C ONV ENT IL L O HOSTAL - ALBERGUE

EL

Punta Arenas, Chile Pje Korner 1034 Phone +56-61 242311 info@hostalelconventillo.com www.hostalelconventillo.com

Road Scholar

by Thomas S Daly

As you pass from street to street, be it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating with your trusty street map, do you ever wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people actually are? Well, names of past Chilean Presidents take care of some of the names, but the streets also honor people and places with great significance in the area’s historic development.

Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . .

LADRILLEROS

Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who, in 1557, was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific.

Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men, he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal. (Hence the name Ultima Esperanza, or Last Hope. Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years!

BLANCO ENCALADA

The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home.A great political figure, he was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826.

of course the giant sloth milodon. Today, the Eberhard family still lives on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo.

BAQUEDANO

KRUGER

General Manuel Baquedano defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881).

Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina.Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss.

Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy.

BULNES

Manuel Bulnes’ military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851).

CHORRILLOS

The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881).

BALMACEDA ARTURO PRATT

A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (The Huascar), accompanied by only one sergeant.

José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group, prevented Argentina from entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program, which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide.

ESMERALDA

The name of Captain Arturo Pratt’s ship in the Battle of Iquique.

O´HIGGINS

The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins,together with José de San Martín, crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile’s independence and became Chile’s first President in 1818.

of Perito Francisco Perito Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer.

TOMAS ROGERS

Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glacier. On arrival, he named it Francisco Gomaz in honor of the expedition. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honor

EBERHARD

Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Ultima Esperanza.

He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, Dorotea. Lago Sofia is named after his second daughter. In 1892, it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where the remains of various prehistoric animals were found, including saber-toothed tigers, camels, deer and

PILOTO PARDO

Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men, to rescue the 22 castaways from the Endurance (Shackleton Expedition 191516). His tugboat “The Yelcho,” had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of Pardo and his crew, Shackleton only mentioned Pardo’s name once in his 386-page book-in the preface!

PEDRO MONTT

Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers.

He himself became President of the Republic between 1906-1910.

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Calentamiento de la Tierra en Antártica

El calentamiento global de la Tierra ha comenzado a hacerse sentir en los hielos de la Antártica, donde se ha producido un repliegue de la mayoría de sus grandes glaciares.

La investigación, realizada por científicos estadounidenses y británicos, indicó que de un total de 244 glaciares marinos, un 87 por ciento ha registrado una retracción en los últimos 50 años, periodo en el que la temperatura ha aumentado 2,5 grados centígrados.

Según los científicos, ese repliegue o empequeñecimiento se ha debido principalmente a la pérdida de las plataformas de hielo flotantes en los extremos de cada uno de esos enormes ríos de agua dulce congelada que terminan en el mar.

El estudio realizado por científicos del Consejo de Investigaciones del Ambiente del Instituto Antártico Británico y el Instituto Geológico de EEUU constató que en los últimos años del siglo XX se han retirado al menos diez plataformas de hielo.

“Debido a que sabemos que la pérdida de estas plataformas puede causar una aceleración de los glaciares, las observaciones sugieren que la pérdida acumulativa en el frente de los glaciares puede conducir a un mayor drenaje de la Península Antártica que es mayor de lo que se pensaba hasta ahora”.

Al igual que otros estudios sobre el calentamiento global, que han pronosticado que la causa principal es la acumulación de gases invernadero (particularmente dióxido de carbono), los científicos indicaron que el acelerado repliegue de los glaciares y su descenso sobre el océano podría aumentar el nivel de los mares.

La desaparición de otras plataformas “podría incrementar más aún el desequilibrio y hacer con ello una contribución sustancial al aumento del nivel oceánico”, señalaron los científicos en el informe sobre su investigación. La retirada de los glaciares debida a la descongelación se ha generalizado después de comenzar en el extremo norte y el sector más cálido de la península Antártica para extenderse hacia la tierra firme del continente helado donde las temperaturas son más frías.

La rapidez con que se ha producido el fenómeno sugiere que el calentamiento global no es el único factor que lo ha provocado y agregan que otro podría ser el cambio de temperatura marina.

Aun cuando ocurriría de manera gradual en el curso de varias décadas, un mayor nivel del mar despojaría de tierras costeras a muchos países y territorios, además de influir en la climatología de todo el planeta, han advertido los científicos.

Extracto de revista “Science”

EL CROSSWORDO Crossword by Sarah Anderson’s English classes. Her students meet once a week to practice their speaking and listening skills.The group who created this crossword range from 11-14 years old.

Across 1. Capital of the Ultima Esperanza 5. Whale found in the Strait of Magellan 7. Shrub with purple fruit 8. Italian priest, photographer and climber 9. Typical asado meat 15. Pink winter resident 17. Wild llama 18. Another name for Onas 20. National bird of Chile 21. Biggest bird in the Magallanes Region

Down 1. Sandy Point 2. Patagonian farm 3. Constellation on the region’s flag 4. Discoverer of the Strait 6. Tehuelche word for blue 10. Beech tree found in Patagonia 11. Channel dividing Chile and Argentina 12. Large mass of ice 13. Prehistoric animal of Patagonia 14. Southern Andean deer 16. Black and white non-flying bird 19. Mountain lion

Isla Morena - Hosteria, Resto & Bar

Homemade Patagonian food, with an original touch.

Tasty, traditional Patagonian food, with a personal touch...

Salmon, hake, pejerrey, seafood, pastas, homemade pizzas.

Dinner from 18.30-23.30 To m á s R o g e r s 3 8 P u e r t o N at a l e s, Pat a g o n i a . 6 0 m e t e r s f r o m t h e P l a z a d e A r m a s. P h : 4 1 4 7 7 3 . w w w. i s l a m o r e n a . c l

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Corporación de Defensa de los Derechos de los Animales (CODDA) Wondering what’s up with all the street dogs?

They need your help. Please donate!

To make a donation or volunteer, call (56-61) 262 607 or email perros@chileaustral.com

torres del paine tested in patagonia

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, Chile info@torresdelpaine-store.cl +56-61 614310

Av. Circunvalación 1950 Punta Arenas www.chileaustral.com/perros

Patagonia’s Plethera of Penguins

Every year in mid September the first black and white heads timidly pop out of the cold water from the Staight of Magellan. Spring has begun and soon the first brave Magellanic penguin steps onto one of Patagonia’s lone pebble beaches, just like their anscesters have done for thousands of years. Only males arrive at the beginning, but it doesn’t take long for the females to join the males and start finding their soul mates for the sole but definite purpose of reproduction. They then stay all summer until their chicks are big enough to join their parents at the end of March on their long journey north.

There are five colonies that you can visit around Punta Arenas: Seno Otway, Isla Magdalena, Cabo Virgenes, Tucker Islet and Ruppert Islet. All of contain the same species: Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus).

So what are your options?

Pretty much all tour operators and travel agencies in Punta Arenas offer daily departures to Seno Otway in the afternoon, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., picking folks up at their accommodations. It’s an hour drive through the Patagonian pampas to reach private property, where about 11,000 penguins nest. The landlord officially opened his terrain for visitors on October 15, 2007, and will close it up at the end of March, when the penguins start to head north.This year, the entrance fee at Seno Otway is 4.500 pesos. Starting this year, there’s also a fee of 1.000 pesos to use the private road, which is the only way to access the colony.

The ferry boat that connects Punta Arenas

and Porvenir takes you to Isla Magdalena on Tuesdays,Thursdays and Saturdays, but it doesn’t start operating until the end of November or beginning of

December. There’s about 120,000 penguins on Isla Magdalena. This excursion begins at “Tres Puentes” port, which you can reach from down town Punta Arenas by hopping on one of the colectivos, either nº 15 or 20. The price for this tour will be 20.000 pesos, including entrance fee.

Every day at 7:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. (weather permitting), you can catch a fast zodiac boat across the Straight of Magellan to Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta. The latter island is home to about 1,000 sea lions, who consider Isla Magdalena their special penguin restaurant. This is an adventurous yet safe alternative to the ferry. Price: 32.000 pesos, including the shuttle transfer from/to Punta Arenas and to/from the dock and the entrance fee.

The Eastern entrance of the Straight of Magellan is called Cabo Virgenes. Nearby, on Argentine soil, is a penguin colony that is said to be the second largest in South America (after Punta Tombo), with about 200,000 birds. It is best reached by joining a tour from Rio Gallegos or by renting a car and driving the dirt road southeast of Rio Gallegos yourself. It’s a pretty big distance, but the chances that you and the penguins will be the only ones there are pretty good! Price from Rio Gallegos: 120 Argentinian pesos plus 15ARP entrance fee.

A visit to Tucker Islet is only possible byjoining one of the weekly expedition cruises from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia onboard the Mare Australis or Via Australis. Prices for the 5 day/4 night cruise start at USD 1,150 per person.

Ruppert Islet is part of Chile’s first Maritime Park named after Chilean a’s Nobel Prize winner Francisco Coloane. To get there, you can join a Humpback Whale Watching tour that runs from December to April from/to Punta Arena. The penguin colony has an estimated 20,000 members. This season’s prices for the 3 day/2 night all-inclusive tour is USD 900 per person.

Punta Arenas Museums Museo Salesiano Av. Bulnes 374 South Patagonian culture, history and nature. $2.000 Tue.-Sun. a.m.: 10:00-12:30 Tue.-Sun. p.m.:15.00-18.00 Museo Regional Magallanes 949, next to the plaza ph (61) 244216 The former mansion of Mauricio Braun, containing regional history.

Tue.-Sat.: $1.000, Sun.: free Tue.-Sat.: 10:30-17:00 Sun.: 10:30-14:00 Museo Naval y Marítimo Pedro Montt at O´Higgins ph (61) 205479 Shipwrecks, cartography, meteorology, local and national maritime history.

Tue.-Sat. a.m.: 9:30 - 12:30 Tue.-Sat. p.m.: 14:00 - 17:00

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Punta Arenas, Chile Q&A

What are the highlights of PA center?

To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and with an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego Island and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America, reflecting the many explorers and pioneers who created the cosmopolitan Punta Arenas society. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.

Mario Toledo

Julia Garay

Caupolican

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Jorge Montt

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How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?

Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine. For more info ask at Buses Barria.

Sarmiento

Mejicana

Av. Colon

Can I drink the tap water?

Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.

How far is Torres del Paine from here?

4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Rio Serrano.

5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.

Downtown Punta Arenas, Chile

Croacia Pl. Sampaio

Maipu

Where can I change money?

There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.

Does Punta Arenas have a camping?

Not at walking distance from the centre.

What are my penguin options?

1) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.

2) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tue, Thu, and Sat. 3) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena – every day.

Arauco

How do I know where the colectivos go?

There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

How much do taxis cost?

All taxis have a taximeter, in and around the centre you should pay between 1500 and 2500 pesos.

How many people live here?

About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.

How far is the airport out of town?

About 20km or 30 minutes.

Angamos

When are store open?

Except for the supermarkets and farmacies, everything opens around 9:30am and is closed around lunch time between 13:00 and 15:00pm.

Also on Sundays most shops are closed, except for the supermarkets.

What’s with all the street dogs? Do they bite?

Yes, gringos only.

Av. Bulnes

Is there any public transportation?

Yes! “Micro” is the name for our public buses. A great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one take it as far as it goes – which is until you are the last one on the bus an the driver nevously starts to look at you all the time and then just ask him to take you back to the “centro.” “Colectivos” are car-type public transportation. Like a bus, they have a defined route, but they “collect” people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options a pretty inexpensive.

How much is an airport transfer?

A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000 CLP. From the airport to town you’d usually pay about 8.000 CLP. The difference is due to the concession that the taxi companies have to wait for you at the airport. The ones that don’t have this concession may only take you to the airport, but may not wait there. There are also minibus shuttles.

Bories

Are there tours to the park from Punta Arenas?

Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organise trips to the park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short of time…

When does ski season start?

Depending on snow conditions of course about June – August. You can see the Strait of Magellan from the slopes.

Jose Nogueira

Where is the bus station?

Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the centre. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8pm. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.

Can I reach the end of the continent?

From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America´s continent.

What type of day tours are there?

Options include: Penguin Colonies. Historic Fuerte Bulnes (some operatores include side trips to Laguna Parriar National Forest) Also recommended.

Chiloe

Why are there ropes on the main square corners?

Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring time and summer with winds up to 120 km/h.

The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.

Is P.A. safe at night?

Yup, no worries.

Is there a boat to Ushuaia?

Yes, a fancy ship called the “Expedition Cruise.”

Armando Sanhueza

What does Punta Arenas mean?

Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C.

How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuia?

250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry, 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.

Señoret

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas?

Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map.

Port

Punta Arenas, Chile

You are here. Participate.

Leave No Trace in Patagonia 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

Puerto Natales, Chile

Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea

Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.

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Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping.This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.

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Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

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7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

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Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.

Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

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Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.

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6. Respect Wildlife

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Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

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5. Minimize Campfire Impacts

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Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

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4. Leave What you Find

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To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap.

Scatter strained dishwater.

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Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter.

Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.

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3. Dispose of Waste Properly

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In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

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Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.

In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.

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2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

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Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.

Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6.

Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.

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