Salon Magazine, March/April 2023

TIPS FOR GOING GREEN WITH YOUR BUSINESS

PANTONE COLOUR INSPIRATION

Sustainability & Styling

Tonal Control

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don’t just cover grays, rejuvenate them solving the two challenges of going gray the look and the feel

MADEIN CANADA

SINCE 1948, OUR STYLIST-FIRST PHILOSOPHY HAS PUT US AT THE FOREFRONT OF HAIR INNOVATION, INSPIRATION AND MASTERY: FROM FOREVER REVOLUTIONIZING COLOR TO ARTIST-LED EDUCATION, AND TRUE PARTNERSHIPS LASTING DECADES. CHEERS TO 75 YEARS TOGETHER AND MORE.

CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF PASSIONATE STYLISTS.

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33

FEATURE

Going Green for Good

With the growing demand for more sustainable products and services, get inspired with innovative ways to make changes in the salon to be more environmentally friendly and reduce your carbon footprint.

38

FEATURE

Class in Session

Are you interested in becoming a session hairstylist or seeking more editorial hair opportunities? We chatted with experts about their experiences, and they shared their top tips on how to make a name for yourself in the industry.

43

INSPIRATION Collections

James Abu-Ulba; Ben Barkworth; Suzie McGill, Kerry Mather; Anne Veck

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CONTESSA GALLERY

Suzanne Maurice

Discover how this salon owner and hairstylist got her start in the industry and competition work. Plus, learn about the inspiration behind her Ontario Hairstylist finalist collection.

“We have a unique opportunity to light a fire and ignite the entire industry—and other industries—to make real change when it comes to sustainability.”

— SHANE PRICE, FOUNDER AND CEO, GREEN CIRCLE SALONS

14 Editor’s Letter 16

LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca

Looking to start your spring off on the right foot? Discover the latest news, announcements, collections, how-tos, event recaps and more!

WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Check out the season’s newest product launches in care, styling, colour and more. Plus, get the scoop on spring/summer Fashion Week hairstyles, trending bobs and Pantone-inspired hair colour.

56 BUSINESS Self-Care Success

With more clients being mindful of the environment and wellness, we spoke with two salon owners to find out how being sustainable and offering wellness services and experiences are benefitting their businesses.

58 PROFILE

Real and Resilient

Get to know New York-based celebrity hairstylist Danielle Priano and how she got her start in the industry.

60 INTERIORS Beachy

Chic

Take a peek inside this Toronto-based, Contessa-finalist salon that was designed with inspiration from the owners’ family vacations to Brazil and Italy.

64 Events + Scoop

66

SALON STORIES Sustainability from the Source

KAO Salon Division’s global director of sustainability shares his latest insights on environmental changes in the industry and some of the steps the company is taking to continue to be eco-conscious.

SUZIE MCGILL, U.K.

JAMES ABU-ULBA, SPA UTOPIA & SALON, LANGLEY, B.C. 52

ANNE VECK ANNE VECK OXFORD, U.K.

[METAL DETOX]

Stop hair breakage & colour shift.

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Springing Into Action

As we head into a new season with our latest goals top of mind, it’s a good idea to pause and reflect on how those New Year’s resolutions are coming along. Chances are, for some of us, there have been a few bumps in the road. But remember, it’s all about progress, not perfection.

For more and more salon owners, managers and beauty pros, one of those resolutions is likely to be more eco-conscious. In “Going Green for Good” (page 33), we chatted with experts who are offering innovative environmentally friendly solutions to help make a difference.

Here at Salon, we’re also doing our part. With the rising costs associated with printing, we’ve decided to pivot to six double-month issues. While that means we’ll be publishing fewer issues each year, for us it’s always been about quality over quantity. We’re excited to continue featuring the latest collections, techniques, trends and more. Plus, printing bimonthly issues extends the shelf life of the magazine, which is also good for our planet.

In addition to sustainability, wellness and self-care have been hot topics in the industry. In “Self-Care Success” (page 60), we checked in with two salon owners who are elevating their guest experience through scalp care and sustainability.

And speaking of feel-good experiences, we’re well on our way to planning the Contessa Awards, which is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year. Entries open in May, and we’re happy to share some of the latest rule updates (page 21), including a brand-new category!

Whatever goals you may be working toward in the year ahead, just remember that even the smallest changes can make a big difference. Don’t give up!

Salon Magazine

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca

CONTRIBUTORS Sami Chazonoff, Lucy Mazzucco, Corinna Reeves

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca

SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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Address

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist. Printed on recyclable paper

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

PRINTED IN CANADA

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

We help you narrow the search.

PRODUCT GUIDE

Think Outside The Box

Whether you’re in search of inspiration for your next creative shoot or seeking some motivation to try a new style or technique, our archive of editorial hair collections from all over the world is sure to help.

} Grow Your Team

Calling all salon owners! Find the right fit for your team by posting new job openings on our free job board.

Be In The Know

From industry news to the latest Contessa announcements, sign up for our newsletter to stay up to date on the latest scoop.

Awards-Season Hair

Learn how to recreate the hottest red-carpet looks with step-by-step details from celebrity hairstylists.

AND THE WINNER IS…

Congratulations to Alyssa Torgerson from Winnipeg on winning Redken Canada’s Next Top Stylist contest! Read our exclusive interview and find out how she created this bridal look at SalonMagazine.ca.

SPRING INTO THE UPCOMING SEASON WITH NEW CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING LAUNCHES. PLUS, LEARN

HOW YOUR FAVOURITE BRANDS ARE MAKING A DIFFERENCE WITH THEIR SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES.

For his Refraction collection, U.K.-based session hairstylist Josh Woodman sought to create a collection that showcased when light is deflected or blended, resulting in an image that looks out of focus or off-balance. The collection features unrefined and mixed textures that are combined to create an array of striking looks that aren’t overly polished. This collection is meant to inspire you to look at hair through a different lens this season.

PHOTO: HAIR: JOSH WOODMAN, EDEN HAIR & BEAUTY, U.K., MAKEUP: FATIN HASADO, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY (COURTESY OF FPA)

Icebreaker ➣

Create the blonde shade of your clients’ dreams with Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Base Breaker.

No matter what your client’s hair colour or type, gender, complexion or skin tone is, Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Base Breakers will allow you to get them to their ideal blonde shade. Offering up to one level of lift with a gentle tone deposit in only five to 10 minutes, the Base Breaker protect hair’s integrity with the brand’s integrated Bonding Technology and is available in three shades: Soft Cool, which is ideal for balancing results with a soft neutralization effect and great to use on light to medium pre-lightened blonde hair bases; Cool, which offers an anti-yellow effect and balancing results and is ideal for light to medium pre-lightened blonde hair bases; and Extra Cool, which is ideal for medium to dark pre-lightened blonde hair bases and allows for balancing results, an anti-orange effect and the strongest neutralization. Each shade is made with aloe extract and an ammonia-free gel formula, making it easy to mix, fast to apply and great for root application and full-head application.

SPIRALLING OUT

Get instant nourishment and moisture with Redken’s new All Soft Mega Curls.

Redken’s All Soft line has got a facelift with a rebrand to All Soft Mega Curls. Reformulated to o er the ideal combination of hydration and protein for curly and coily hair, the three-step regimen is formulated with a mix of the brand’s Nourish Complex, aloe vera, cactus flower extract and inca inchi oil, and includes the All Soft Mega Curls Shampoo, which is sulfate-free to gently cleanse, hydrate and soften hair. The All Soft Mega Curls Conditioner hydrates and strengthens while detangling, moisturizing and improving hair’s manageability for more defined and bouncy curls and coils. The All Soft Mega Curls Hydramelt

Leave-In Treatment smooths dry hair while strengthening and improving its manageability to enhance your clients’ natural curl patterns.

Help clients achieve thicker and fuller hair with Nioxin’s Ultimate Power

Nioxin has partnered with professor Ralf Paus from Monasterium Laboratory, a skin and hair research lab in Germany, to create the brand’s Ultimate Power Serum. Featuring the scent of Sandalore, which is a synthetic version of sandalwood, combined with ca eine, lauric acid and niacinamide, the serum helps stimulate hair follicles, allowing for a longer growth cycle and improved hair anchorage. This daily leave-on scalp treatment is clinically proven to improve the resistance of your clients’ hair while helping them get thicker and fuller hair over time.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, MATRIX, JOICO, SEXYHAIR, NIOXIN, REDKEN

Watch Your Tone

Correct and balance your clients’ colour with Matrix’s Tonal Control.

Ideal for post-lightening toning and glossing services, Matrix Tonal Control provides pure tonal deposit with no lift, as well as true-to-tone dimensional results that last up to six weeks. Featuring a special formula that gradually darkens as it oxidizes, it provides a visual indicator for when the 20-minute processing time is complete. The formula also features a gel texture that gives you more control and is ideal for both bottle and brush applications. Available in a superior value tube for 50 per cent more colour per tube (compared to other two-ounce tubes) and six Bonder Inside shades to help protect hair’s integrity, each is colour-coded to represent the shade family for ultimate predictability. Plus, you can even increase revenue in your salon and offer post-lightening services while quickly and evenly distributing and saturating colour on all hair types.

➣

FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH

Create strong and bouncy hair with Joico’s YouthLock.

While clients may already know about the antiaging benefits of collagen in skin care, did you know that they can reap those same benefits in their haircare routine? In addition to collagen, Joico’s YouthLock is formulated with buriti oil and the brand’s SmartRelease Technology to transform dry, fragile and unmanageable hair while boosting shine and reducing breakage. The YouthLock Shampoo is free of SLS/ SLES sulfates and can be used daily to gently remove dirt. The YouthLock Conditioner is great for dry and mature hair to help detangle and soften while adding body and bounce. The YouthLock Treatment Masque o ers deep moisture without weighing hair down. The YouthLock Blowout Crème shields hair from breakage and heat damage, as well as from frizz and static.

PERFECTLY IMPERFECT

Learn how SexyHair’s Imperfect Fruit Mask Collection helps you be more sustainable while addressing your clients’ hair concerns.

The three new masks include the Color Lock Kiwi Mask, which is suitable for all hair types to help protect colour vibrancy and prevent fading for up to 20 washes. The Strengthening Nectarine Mask is ideal for fine to medium hair to help improve hair’s strength by reducing breakage and improving hair’s appearance after one use. The Moisturizing Peach Mask is designed for medium to coarse hair and enriched with vitamin C to deeply moisturize and improve hair’s appearance after one use. All three masks help increase the natural shine of your clients’ hair and are free of SLS/SLE, sulfates, parabens and gluten and have never been tested on animals. The best part? All three masks are formulated with imperfect fruit that has been discarded because of cosmetic imperfections, so you can feel good about using these masks while supporting the prevention of food waste.

Get inspired to create with Goldwell’s 2023 Color of the Year.

Goldwell has collaborated with global trend agencies and experts to name its 2023 Color of the Year.

Introducing… Cherry Pop! This dynamic yet seductive shade is a combination of deep, fiery red and cool pink tones, creating a vibrant and ideal cherry shade for blondes who are looking to make a bold statement or brunettes who are looking for a warm and rich hue.

Goldwell’s global ambassador, Angelo Seminara, says the timing of Cherry Pop is perfect for this year. “I was truly honoured to create Cherry Pop as Goldwell’s Color of the Year 2023,” he says. “Reds have always been synonymous with Goldwell, and this particular shade is full of exciting possibilities in hair colour. Long associated with prosperity and good fortune, this perfect red shade arrives just in time to celebrate Goldwell’s 75th anniversary.”

STAY TUNED TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HOW GOLDWELL IS COMMEMORATING THEIR 75TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR!

Take Your Pick!

It’s time to get your vote in for Salon’s 12th annual Reader’s Choice Awards.

Our Reader’s Choice Awards are back for the 12th consecutive year, and from April 3 to 17, you can have your say and vote for your favourite brands, products and tools. Cast your vote in 32 categories (including our brand-new category, Scalp Product) for the chance to win one of three $100 Visa gift cards. Don’t miss out on your chance to tell us if your favourite products are really worth the hype!

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/RCA.

Rooted in Care

Expand your in-salon offerings with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new hair and scalp care launches.

With spring just around the corner, there’s no better time to help your clients care for their hair and scalp health. L’Oréal Professionnel is introducing two care lines—Scalp Advanced and Serioxyl Advanced—to care for your clients’ hair from within.

To help reset scalps for those suffering from discomfort and oiliness, the Scalp Advanced Anti-Discomfort Dermo-Regulator Shampoo is a lightweight gel that helps purify the scalp and fibre from residue, sweat and oil. Formulated with niacinamide and other soothing ingredients, the shampoo leaves hair soft and hydrated. The Scalp Advanced Anti-Discomfort Intense Soother Treatment features a jelly texture and cooling sensation to instantly relieve discomfort in the scalp without weighing down hair. The Scalp Advanced Anti-Oiliness Dermo-Purifier is formulated with three per cent AHA water-soluble acid to gently purify the surface of the scalp, allowing new cells to generate, while offering a fresh and clean look and feel.

Since hair density is an issue that all clients—regardless of age or gender— may struggle with, Serioxyl Advanced can help clients achieve denser hair in only six weeks. The Serioxyl Advanced Densifying Professional Serum is made with a lightweight formula that targets thinning hair while densifying hair fibres, all while stimulating dormant hair roots. Dermatologically approved, it contains Stemoxydine 5% + Resveratrol and is free of colourants, silicones and sulfates. The Serioxyl Advanced Densifying Professional Shampoo is alcohol- and silicone-free, and features magnesium to help gently purify hair roots from buildup to make sure hair growth is not impacted while increasing the look of dense and radiant hair.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): GOLDWELL, ORIBE, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, L'ORÉAL

Did you know that the Contessa Awards (Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards) are celebrating their 35th anniversary this year?

Save the date for November 12, 2023, at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto and get ready for the ultimate celebration in professional beauty.

Here’s what’s new this year:

New Category: Emerging Colourist

For this year, we want to spotlight more of the industry’s rising stars, which is why we’re introducing Emerging Colourist! This category is for colourists with less than five years of industry experience.

Reminder: Just like our Emerging Hairstylist category, Emerging Colourist is also open to students and apprentices and has a reduced entry fee.

Session Hairstylist is no longer an exclusive category

This means that the same (or similar) photos can be entered in another category.

Reminder: Session Hairstylist is judged on the total look (including wardrobe), so we strongly encourage submitting full-length photos for this category and cropping them for any additional entries in other categories.

Elite Master Hairstylist and Master Colourist are returning to nomination-only

During the pandemic, we removed the nomination requirement for these exclusive categories and opened them up to allow any qualifying hairstylist or colourist to enter. However, due to popular demand, we’re bringing back nominations!

Reminder: Both categories are exclusive and require a separate photo shoot with a different look and feel (different hair, makeup, wardrobe, etc.) from any other category. All nominees will be contacted by March 31st.

Entries for Makeup Artist can now be from ANY* category

While we’ve already allowed Makeup Artist entrants to submit photos from Canadian Salon Team, we’re now allowing them from ANY* category (including exclusive categories!). Now there’s no excuse for your MUA to showcase their talent and compete for Makeup Artist of the Year.

Reminder: For all entrants, save 15 per cent off your entry fee if you enter more than one collection or category. Plus, you can enter up to two** entries in the same category!

*Excluding Freestyle

** The highest-scoring entry will advance to semi-finalists and finalists.

Entry Deadline: September 6, 2023

Gala Date: November 12, 2023

Repair and Restore

Strengthen hair and reduce breakage with the Hair Alchemy Strengthening Masque from Oribe.

The brand has expanded its Hair Alchemy line with a soft and buttery treatment masque that’s designed for all hair types to deeply nourish fragile and breakage-prone strands. Formulated with moisture-rich shea butter and yacón root to hydrate and nourish weak hair, the masque includes Oribe’s curative blend of chia seed plant-based protein and bio-fermented bamboo leaf to deeply penetrate the hair cortex. It protects and prevents breakage while restoring hair’s elasticity for longer, stronger and healthy-looking results.

ORIBE HAS ALSO LAUNCHED TRAVEL-SIZED VERSIONS OF ITS HAIR ALCHEMY RESILIENCE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER, SO YOU CAN ENSURE YOUR CLIENTS ARE TAKING CARE OF THEIR HAIR, EVEN WHEN THEY’RE ON VACATION!

Rinse and Repeat

Detox and refresh your clients’ scalps with two new Tea Tree products from John Paul Mitchell Systems.

With an increasing demand for scalp care, John Paul Mitchell Systems has launched its Tea Tree Special Detox Kombucha

PRO TIP

WHEN COMBINED AT THE BACKBAR, THE PRODUCTS HELP DETOXIFY AND CLEANSE THE SCALP BEFORE A SERVICE FOR SHINY, HEALTHY-LOOKING RESULTS.

Rinse, a clarifying rinse that helps smooth and seal the hair’s cuticle. Made with kombucha and apple cider vinegar, it’s clinically proven to remove 74 per cent of scalp buildup after just one use. The brand’s Tea Tree Special Detox Foaming Salt Scrub is formulated with volcanic ash, Himalayan pink salt and French green clay to exfoliate and remove dry skin and buildup while soothing the scalp for hair that looks and feels refreshed.

Burst of Colour

Let your colour creativity run free with Pulp Riot’s Wild Ride.

Inspired by standing out and pushing boundaries, the five new semipermanent shades include Cosmic Daze, a pastel and iridescent periwinkle; Clouded, a rich blue/green; Iced Skater, a deep and bright pigmented sapphire; First Base, a vivid and true hot pink with warm undertones for depth; and Acid Spill, a lemon-lime green. Designed for levels eight to 10, the tonally unique colours fade true to tone and are vegan, gluten-free and cruelty-free. Plus, they embody the brand’s bright, fun and fierce-spirited artists to help motivate you to bring your most colourful ideas to life.

Shaking It O

Eliminate your clients’ dandru while purifying their scalps with Kérastase’s Symbiose.

This five-step haircare regimen is formulated with specialized ingredients that are designed to target your clients’ scalps, including pyrithione zinc, which provides antibacterial properties; salicylic acid, which helps exfoliate dead cells and reduce dandruff; and bifidus, a prebiotic fraction that’s known for its scalp benefits. Kérastase’s Symbiose line enables you to offer a luxurious haircare experience while also providing the scalp with the care it needs. The Symbiose Scalp Purifying Micro-Peeling Scrub is an anti-dandruff, micropeeling scrub that provides gentle chemical exfoliation to remove dead cells and flakes while relieving discomfort. The Symbiose Bain Crème Apaisant is a moisturizing shampoo that hydrates and replenishes the scalp and is great for those who suffer from dryness or sensitivity or are prone to dandruff. The Symbiose Fondant Apaisant Essentiel is a soothing and lightweight conditioner that preserves and hydrates the scalp barrier while providing intense nutrition. The Symbiose Masque Revitalisant Essentiel is a hair mask for damaged and dandruff-prone hair that delivers deep nutrition to the scalp. The Symbiose Sérum Nuit Intensif is a powerful and intensive night serum that is ideal for all scalps that are prone to dandruff and works to clear the scalp’s skin and support its health.

Get to know Back of Bottle / BOB, a premium, clean haircare and styling range.

Renowned Toronto-based hairstylist and entrepreneur Ray Civello has unveiled his latest venture: Back of Bottle / BOB, an innovative product line powered by high-performance, clean and green ingredients.

The line includes 26 products ranging from shampoos and conditioners to styling and treatments. “It’s an opportunity for hairdressers to create customized and unique o erings with this product line,” says Civello. “We created the line to work synergistically so it could be customized for every individual and type of hair.”

In an aim to be fully transparent, each product is housed in sustainable packaging with labels that clearly list its ingredients, which are all formulated without the use of SLS/SLES sulfates, mineral oil, parabens and animal byproducts. Its shampoos and conditioners are also formulated without the use of silicones.

We chatted with Ray Civello about the brand and how it helps address some of gaps he’s identified in the market.

Tell us about the concept for Back of Bottle / BOB.

I’ve always had an interest in product development. Ultimately, we were looking for an opportunity to do some good by o ering high-performance products that are clean and give back to the community of hairdressers and consumers, who are increasingly becoming more aware of ingredients.

As for the name, we distilled it down to the simplest thing: it’s an ingredient story that’s simple and transparent. We tell you what we’ve got—no BS. We use highly active, clean and green ingredients that perform at the highest standards of the most demanding hairdressers we work with.

What are some of the hair concerns that you wanted to help address with the products?

I have fine, curly hair and I really felt that most of the products out there were too heavy. For my esthetic, I like hair to look like no one has worked on it; the haircut is beautiful, the shape falls into a flattering frame around the face and it shouldn’t look like there are tons of product in it. Of course, products help create that beautiful hair, so we wanted to create things that absorbed into the hair and didn’t coat it. We approached it more like skincare than haircare. With skincare, you can layer it and it absorbs into the skin very quickly, so we hired a chemist who’s a skincare expert. He was wonderful in helping us bring this innovation and di erent way of thinking to the market.

READ MORE FROM OUR Q&A WITH RAY CIVELLO AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

(CLOCKWISE): PULP RIOT, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, BIO SCULPTURE, CND, OPI, GELISH, INSTAGRAM, BACK OF BOTTLE / BOB, KÉRASTASE

GENIE IN A BOTTLE

Artistic Nail Design

Perfect for the bride who wants a little bit of sparkle on her big day, Don’t Sweat the Pink Stu is a pale pink shimmer shade from the My Choice collection.

Bio Sculpture

Not every bride wants pink nails, and Betina from the brand's EVO gel line's THE Collection is the perfect alternative. The translucent light nude has a touch of peach, making it a perfect yet subtle choice.

Award Worthy

From chrome to sparkles, from neutral to bold, these eye-catching nails kicked o awards season in style and are sure to inspire.

CND

Quartz Correct from the Shade Sense collection is a peachy pale pink hue that’s sure to keep all of the attention on the bride while elevating her wedding-day look.

1 Selena Gomez stole the show at the Golden Globes with her neutral yet glamorous manicure. Celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik used Aprés Gel-X nail tips and polish before topping the look with crystal dust.

2 At the Critics Choice Awards, celebrity manicurist Temeka Jackson went for an edgy look with gunmetal chrome nails for actress, writer and producer Quinta Brunson.

3 Wednesday actress Jenna Ortega was rocking neutral almond-shaped nails for the Golden Globes. It was all in the details as celebrity manicurist Thuy Nguyen added white-and-gold linework to each nail.

4 Actress Jessica Chastain was also in attendance at the Golden Globes and sported medium-length nails that were finished with an iridescent polish by session nail artist Julie Kandalec.

5 Celebrity nail artist Kim Truong decided to keep things on the minimalistic side for the Critics Choice Awards and gave actress Anya Taylor-Joy a nude polish before completing the look with crystals.

6 Actress Laverne Cox sported a beautiful blue-and-silver geometric nail look created by celebrity nail artist Eri Ishizu for the Golden Globes.

OPI

Keep it classy for your bridal clients with Pink in Bio, a soft pink crème from the Me, Myself and OPI collection.

SPOTLIGHT Flower Power

Gelish

Get your brides ready for their special day with Pretty Simple, a light nude crème from the Pure Beauty collection.

OPI has expanded its Nature Strong line of natural origin and vegan nail polish lacquers with eight new colourful earth-inspired shades, ranging from bright and bold to subtle and neutral. The new hues include Mind-full of Glitter, an opalescent glitter; Kind of a Twig Deal, a blush pink crème; A Kick in the Bud, a bright pink crème; Bee the Change, an orange crème; Leaf by Example, a dark green crème; Big Bluetiful Planet, a baby blue crème; Eco for It, a blue glitter; and Glowing Places, a grey shimmer. Both glitter shades are made of vegan glitter technology and feature sustainably sourced cellulose farmed from eucalyptus trees. Best of all, Nature Strong’s complete portfolio, consisting of 38 shades, are free of ingredients that are derived or tested on animals and housed in packaging made from at least 20 per cent post-consumer recycled materials.

The brand is also introducing its new Botanical Base Coat, which features skin-care ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as vitamin E and squalane, which help to improve the appearance of nails. The base coat is also infused with botanicals like sunflower oil, sugar cane and fruit extracts like blueberry, orange and lemon and is ideal to use as a primer or even on its own for healthier-looking nails.

Commitment to Change

AS MORE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BRANDS PLEDGE TO CONTINUE TO DO MORE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, DISCOVER SOME OF THEIR LATEST SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES AND GOALS.

Progressing for the Planet

Wella Company has organized its sustainability efforts into three pillars: people, products and the planet. Focusing on reducing its environmental impact through its carbon footprint and supporting salons to reduce their environmental impact, the company has comprehensively mapped out its carbon footprint and is committed to reducing its impact every year. The brand has also committed to supporting its salons through free-to-access sustainability education.

At its facilities, Wella is aiming for 100 per cent renewable energy by 2025 (wherever possible) and a 35 per cent reduction in energy used per unit and water consumption per unit by 2030. The company is also working to achieve zero waste to landfill from all owned sites wherever possible by 2025 and a 35 per cent reduction in waste they create in its own facilities per unit by 2030. In addition to these ongoing goals and efforts, Wella’s recent packaging changes include recycled aluminum and cardboard, along with PCR (post-consumer recycled) plastic.

Ecological Thinking

Since its inception, Biolage has prided itself on being conscious of its impact on the planet. In an attempt to take things one step further, the brand’s signature bottles are now made from 100 per cent post-consumer recycled plastic to help reduce the amount of virgin resin used in its packaging. This change is featured in the brand’s refreshed label design, which also highlights its vegan and cruelty-free formulas that are free of silicones, sulfates, mineral oil, and parabens.

To further reduce the amount of plastic in the ocean, Biolage has partnered with Plastic Bank, an organization that helps with ethical recycling in vulnerable coastal communities while repurposing the materials back into the global supply chain, which helps prevent two million plastic bottles from entering the ocean.

Eco-Conscious Reductions

Named as last year’s winner for Green Brand in Salon’s 11th annual Reader’s Choice Awards, Authentic Beauty Concept continues to further its environmental efforts. The brand’s #AuthenticBeautyMovement promotes the idea of salons and hairstylists upcycling their containers. The company also hosts a Sustainability Seminar to educate hairstylists on sustainability and increase their awareness and understanding. In addition, Authentic Beauty Concept is committed to reducing carbon emissions by 65 per cent (per ton of product) by 2025. By 2030, the brand hopes to reduce emissions by 75 per cent and source 100 per cent of its electricity from renewable energy sources, with the goal of becoming climate-positive by 2040.

Constant Change

Davines is taking a circular approach to its sustainability efforts through eco-design principles that include lightweight and 100 per cent carbon-neutral packaging—made from recycled or renewable-sourced materials, including PET (polyethylene terephthalate) plastic— with fewer and recycled or renewably sourced materials for less consumption and to lower their carbon dioxide equivalent.

Since 2014, Davines has helped reduce virgin plastic by more than 60 per cent through the reuse of empty packaging, which has transformed containers into textile fibres to make towels, backpacks and more.

Davines has also partnered with Plastic Bank to help collect more than 100 tons of ocean-bound plastic. Last year, for every product sold, an equal amount of plastic was collected from oceans in Brazil, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Active Awareness

Last year, L’Oréal Canada strengthened its eco-friendly stance by introducing its chief sustainability and human rights officer, Maya Colombani. The company is aiming to achieve carbon neutrality, along with its other goals in areas such as water management and partnerships.

L’Oréal is also aiming to convert all of its plastic packaging to refillable, reusable, recycled or compostable by 2025.

By 2030, the brand is hoping to feature 100 per cent recycled or bio-based plastics and formulas made from ingredients that are 95 per cent bio-based, derived from abundant minerals or from circular processes.

Putting in the Work

A Mindful Approach

With the brand’s Style Consciously campaign in stores and online, Chatters aims to help its clients make more environmentally conscious choices when shopping. With a range of products that are sustainable, clean, vegan and cruelty-free, each product is thoroughly vetted before being given the Chatters Style Consciously stamp of approval to help clients choose greener and cleaner brands and products. In addition, Chatters has been a certified Green Circle Salon since 2017 and is the largest salon chain to be Green Circle certified. Through the partnership, Chatters has recovered 209,280 pounds (and counting!) of recycled materials.

In addition to its ongoing sustainability efforts, such as responsible sourcing and packaging, cruelty-free and vegan formulas, plant-conscious manufacturing and clean water accessibility, Aveda recently underwent the vigorous process of becoming a B Corp-certified company. To further its commitment to social and environmental responsibility, the brand’s governance, workers, community, environment and consumers were all reviewed by B Lab, a social organization that aims to transform the global economy for all people, communities and the planet. Aveda’s overall impact score was 89.6, which exceeded the average score of 50.9, enabling the company to join a network of companies that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability.

Cleaner Waters

In addition to Moroccanoil’s recycled packaging efforts, cruelty-free formulas and eco-conscious operational changes and initiatives, the brand has partnered with Oceana, an international organization focused on ocean conservation, to donate while building awareness around the organization’s efforts.

Runway Recap

WE’VE ROUNDED UP SOME OF THE TOP SPRING/SUMMER 2023 HAIR LOOKS FROM FASHION WEEKS AROUND THE WORLD THAT ARE SURE TO INSPIRE BOTH YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS THIS SEASON.

Braided Beauties

Oribe’s principal artist of global design, Kien Hoang, created a variety of braided styles for the Marrisa Wilson show at NYFW. Designed to complement a collection inspired by the designer’s Guyanese-American heritage, the looks were created with the brand’s Rough Luxury Molding Wax for hold before Hoang added clear beads to the ends.

Retro Silhouettes

Editorial stylist Lucas Wilson created retroinspired styles for the Prabal Gurung show for NYFW. Wilson and the team used Bumble & bumble’s Hairdresser’s Thickening Spray to add lift and volume at the roots for the vintage looks.

Natural Texture

At Stella McCartney’s show for Paris Fashion Week, Moroccanoil worked with editorial hairstylist Eugene Souleiman and the team to enhance the models’ natural beauty with styles that ranged from short to long to braids. Souleiman used the brand’s Curl Control Mousse to define and hydrate the hair.

’90s Grunge

Inspired by the classic and cool grunge looks of ’90s supermodels, editorial hairstylist Duffy created sleek and effortless looks using ghd styling tools for the Victoria Beckham show at Paris Fashion Week. Duffy used the brand’s Unplugged Cordless Hair Straightener to create soft and delicate movement in the models’ hair.

Classic with a Twist

For Susan Alexandra’s NYFW show, amika’s global artistic director, Naeemah LaFond, created looks for some of Hollywood’s biggest female comedians that were inspired by both their personal styles and ’90s supermodel hair. LaFond used the brand’s Headstrong Intense Hold Hairspray and a 1.25-inch curling iron to create big and bouncy curls.

Ballet Chic

Low buns took over the runway at the Jason Wu show at NYFW. Olaplex’s lead stylist, Jimmy Paul, wanted to create healthylooking hair that was inspired by a busy ’90s New York City girl. Paul used the brand’s No.7 Bonding Oil to smooth away any flyaways before braiding the hair and twisting it into a bun. He finished the look by leaving the ends of the bun out and used a flat iron to straighten and hold their shape.

FROM MODEL HAILEY BIEBER’S MICRO BOB TO ACTRESS JENNA ORTEGA’S CHOPPY BOB, WE CHECKED IN WITH HAIRCUTTING EXPERTS TO FIND OUT WHY MORE CROPPED HAIRSTYLES ARE MAKING WAVES THIS SEASON. PLUS, GET TIPS ON HOW TO HELP YOUR CLIENTS EMBRACE THESE ON-TREND LOOKS.

Modern Bob

It goes without saying that while hair trends come and go, the looks often return in modernized ways that reflect new styles while emphasizing elements from the past.

With the resurgence of the shag and more layered looks, we’re now starting to see choppier styles for shorter lengths as well.

Throughout the course of the past couple of years, more people were forced to grow out their hair, which resulted in the birth of mid-length styles, such as the lob (long bob) and bixie (bob-pixie), for shorter-haired clients.

However, it seems that more guests are now open to the chop. “I don’t believe the pandemic had an influence on this trend in particular,” says Shanti Soulières, a hairstylist and colourist at Kapillär Studio in Saint-Mathieu-deBelœil, Que., and a portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “On the contrary, I believe that we’re enjoying new looks, new styles and a fresh outlook on things.”

Blast from the Past

As we’ve been seeing a wide range of styles that have been heavily influenced by previous eras, these styles are most reminiscent of the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s.

“Modern techniques have helped transition these hairstyles to make them a lot more tailored, yet there’s still a lot of nostalgia factoring into these types of looks,” says Jason Kwan, a Sassoontrained, Toronto-based hairstylist. “Depending on the finishing, it typically

works with all face shapes.”

Along with being inspired by the past, Soulières believes these cuts have been heavily influenced by high-end fashion designers, resulting in more street-style trends.

Making the Cut

Before breaking out your haircutting tools, it’s important to have a thorough consultation to ensure you and your client are on the same page about both

the length and the cut.

“The consultation is everything, and it’s paramount to the client feeling comfortable,” says Soulières. “Consultations are the number one issue for small to large changes as we build consumer awareness, create the relationship and build trust.”

As for techniques, while they will range based on the client’s face shape and overall desired look, Kwan says he prefers to create these haircuts with “a little rounder shape and something that frames the face really well.”

“It’s a little bit more effortless around the face versus something that’s more chic, which is typically easier to grow out,” he says, adding that he prefers to stick with his scissors instead of texturizing shears. “If their hair is much thicker, then I can really see how much weight I’m taking out. If somebody has finer hair or works in a more conventional setting, then I’ll choose something that’s less layered and not overdo it by taking out too much length or volume.”

“Typically, I’ll do the wet cut with a little bit more of the shape in mind of how I want the hair to fall,” adds Kwan. “Then, when I’m cutting the hair dry, it’s more about just tailoring it to suit them a little bit more.”

Mid-Length Magic

The bixie and the lob are a couple of the mid-length styles that have been making their mark, thanks to their lowmaintenance appeal.

PRO TIP FOR THOSE LOOKING TO BE MORE PLAYFUL WITH THEIR HAIRCUT, CONSIDER ADDING MORE LAYERS AROUND THE FACE OR CROWN AREA AND USING A FEATHER RAZOR TO ADD MORE TEXTURE.

“Lobs are so easy to take care of and manage,” says Kwan. “They are so versatile, work for all face shapes and are just a great way to get a lot of volume and movement.”

While it depends on the hair’s density and texture, Soulières says it’s like creating a sculpture. “I start with my base: triangular square or round. From

here, in this section, we create four equal triangles, cutting each corner long to short and short to long. For the next level, I disconnect the bottom from the top, making a true star shape in the upper section of the head. I create my guideline in the centre of my star, then cut short to long and pin cutting wheel in motion.”

“It’s important to push your limits as a hairstylist. Change is good and it’s beautiful, so always look for new looks and styles to discuss with your clients.”

— SHANTI SOULIÈRES, A HAIRSTYLIST AND COLOURIST AT KAPILLÄR STUDIO IN SAINT-MATHIEU-DE-BELŒIL, QUE.

Viva Magenta

WITH PANTONE’S COLOR OF THE YEAR SETTING THE TONE FOR COLOUR TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND FASHION, GET EXPERT TIPS ON HOW TO GET CREATIVE WITH THIS SHADE THIS SEASON.

There’s no doubt that pink has been having a moment in fashion and beauty. From runways to red carpets, it’s influenced not only fashion and makeup but also hair.

So when Pantone released its Color of the Year for 2023, it wasn’t a surprise that Viva Magenta, described as “a shade rooted in nature descending from the red family and expressive of a new signal of strength,” is the shade for this year.

“It’s very feminine, and over the years we’ve been trying to empower women and people to express themselves, so this is a great way to do that,” says Nicole Khosh, owner of Hair by Nicole in West Vancouver and an artistic educator for Matrix. “It’s very flattering on a wide range of skin tones.”

Seeing Red

Since Viva Magenta isn’t a traditional pink shade—it’s a neutral tone with red undertones—it can be a lot more versatile and inclusive for people of all ages, genders and lifestyles.

However, a common mistake that hairstylists and colourists often make is to only recommend fashion shades to a certain group of clientele that they believe will be truly open to trying it.

“It all comes down to the consultation process,” says Khosh. “Sometimes, you

might be surprised by what can happen when you suggest something new to a client and how many people are open to the idea of a fashion shade. It could be someone younger or an elderly woman or even a man. It’s just hair; it grows back, and we can always change it. I would suggest it to anyone and be prepared to share some fun ideas.”

While it can be easy to suggest this to younger clientele—especially Gen Z, who are typically more open to bolder looks and often heavily influenced by trends on social media—it’s important to not overlook older clients who might want a pop of something fresh and new.

“I can easily see it as an accessory on older women, especially with white hair,” says Staelle Coulombe, a Quebecbased colourist and an educator for Joico. “Think about those who decided

PRO

LIFT AT LEAST ONE LEVEL HIGHER THAN YOUR TONE LEVEL. FOR EXAMPLE, FOR TONING TO A LEVEL SEVEN, LIFT TO A LEVEL EIGHT FOR A TRUE DEPOSIT OF COLOUR.

to stop colouring their hair [and embraced their grey hair during the pandemic]. It’s time to get them back on the hair colour wagon!”

Magenta in the Making

To achieve the perfect Viva Magenta tones, both Khosh and Coulombe recommend combining a few different shades to replicate the red undertones and pink hues in the colour. Then it all comes down to placement.

“I’m thinking highlights, a money piece, colour blocking and face framing,” says Coulombe. “We all have a lot of brunettes in the salon, so I would suggest adding a few pieces of magenta around the face or in the fringe.”

“If they have a darker base, I love doing a halo technique—taking an inch from your perimeter and colouring that

VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: HAIR: ANDREW SMITH, ANDREW SMITH SALONS, U.K.,

Colour Bar

Matrix SoColor Cult

Available in semi, demi and permanent colour, this line is ideal for a wide range of base levels with its array of intermixable fashion shades.

Joico

Lasting up to 20 shampoos, this semipermanent range contains a variety of intermixable shades with highly concentrated pigments for long-lasting vibrancy.

she says. “By taking random pieces and panelling and hand-painting with openair processing, it ends up looking like a soft pink look. It blends in with the rest of the blonde and looks like feathers in the hair but pops a bit more when the hair is curled.”

For blondes, both Coulombe and Khosh warn against overprocessing. “A shade like this will stay longer if it’s applied on a warmer base than on level 10 overprocessed and damaged hair,” says Coulombe. “It’s richer and deeper on levels four to seven.”

Midnight Fantasy o ers cool magenta reflects and can be mixed with other Midnight shades for bespoke results.

Known for its wide range of vibrant fashion tones, this semi-permanent, nonoxidative colour range features Magenta, which can be used with the line’s Clear-Dilute for bold or muted results.

The brand’s new semipermanent collection features five new shades, including First Base, an ultra-vibrant hot pink with warm undertones.

“I know it can be a concern when you take out the foils and it’s at a level seven that’s orangey or yellow, but sometimes those underlying pigments can actually help you in the colouring process,” adds Khosh. “You need those pigments to hold colour as an anchor because if you apply a deeper pink on a bright level 10, it can change the whole tone and be brighter—or even neon—and not what the client wanted. It also fades quicker.”

Regardless of the client’s base colour, it’s important to determine the colour’s saturation and placement during the consultation.

while leaving everything else natural,” adds Khosh. “Having a piece that’s coloured in the front is still really in right now.”

While a halo technique can still be used with this shade for blonde clientele, Khosh says that the results will be more dramatic. “For blondes, I would rather go for hand-painting as you would for an open-air balayage,”

“If someone wants to be a bit bolder, I would create some panels on the top of the hair and leave some depth underneath so it really pops when the hair is styled since the vibrant colours against the dark underneath make it pop,” says Khosh. “For something more subtle, using the backcombing technique that people use for balayage never fails and creates a softer look compared to applying the colour directly onto the sections.”

“With any shade, you can go a little more vibrant and a little more muted, so it depends on someone’s lifestyle, career and personality,” she adds. “Just remind your clients that it doesn’t have to be an all-over colour; it can be little peekaboos, panels or pops, so when they style their hair, that’s when people will notice it.”

“MORE AND MORE PEOPLE ARE PLAYING WITH THEIR HAIR AND AREN’T AS CONCERNED ABOUT CHANGING THEIR HAIR COLOUR ANYMORE. THEY WANT TO HAVE MORE FUN NOW.”

— NICOLE KHOSH, OWNER OF HAIR BY NICOLE, WEST VANCOUVER

PRO TIP

REGARDLESS OF THE PLACEMENT, MAINTENANCE IS KEY AND SHOULD BE DISCUSSED DURING THE CONSULTATION PRIOR TO THE COLOUR SERVICE.

Color Intensity

Pulp Riot Wild Ride

Pravana ChromaSilk VIVIDS Original

#mydentity Guy Tang Demi-Permanent

DISCOVER MORE–RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

GOING GREEN FOR GOOD

With sustainability still top of mind in the beauty industry, learn about some of the ways that salons can incorporate more eco-friendly practices into their businesses.

BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

PHOTOS: HAIR: MILKSHAKE INTERNATIONAL TEAM, LED BY GLOBAL AMBASSADOR ANDREW SMITH, MAKEUP: ANNA MARIANEGRI, WARDROBE STYLING: LUCAS MORGON, PHOTO: KAMIL STRUDZINSKI

While more professional beauty brands continue to do their part for sustainability, some salons still don’t know where to start or are apprehensive about the additional costs. However, with increasing consumer awareness, going green is a change that is quickly becoming no longer an option but a requirement.

“Sustainability becoming more mainstream stems from consumers being more conscious around trending topics like ‘vegan’ and ‘paraben-free,’” says Valorie Tate, founder of Sustain Beauty Co., a distributor for Ecoheads North America. “They want to know what they’re putting on their bodies, what they’re breathing in and what they’re putting in their hair. I call it the ‘age of the more empowered consumer.’”

cleaner and greener products and services,” says Shane Price, founder and CEO of Green Circle Salons. “Trickling down into product innovation and packaging design, these big brands know they need to be more upfront about the materials they’re using. Consumers— particularly Gen Z—want to see social and environmental changes, so if I’m a smart salon owner right now, I’m thinking about a simple green strategy I can implement to make my business better, win market share and be more attractive to the modern customer.”

There are many different ways that salon owners and hairstylists can incorporate eco-conscious practices into their salons. However, one of the easiest and most efficient ways is to partner with companies that offer comprehensive services— rather than quick fixes or superficial solutions—and are passionate about addressing these concerns from the ground up.

Eco Echo

With brands throughout the industry answering the call with more sustainable ingredients, packaging and practices, it’s crucial for more salon owners to also step up to the plate.

“There’s certainly growing consumer demand for

Green Circle Salons’s recycling program helps salons safely recycle and dispose of hair clippings, excess colour, metals (including foils, aerosol cans and colour tubes), plastic, paper and cardboard. They’ve even expanded throughout the pandemic to help recycle single-use items and PPE waste, all the while providing salons with tools

and resources to become more environmentally and financially sustainable.

“Our program is designed to help salons achieve three pillars: helping salons be greener through waste diversion, helping salons build revenue through our program, and helping them get noticed by green-minded consumers who are looking to channel their spending dollars into brands that are aligned with their values,” says Price. “We help salons with critical areas of their business through these pillars that all work together synergistically. We’ve also

DID YOU KNOW? ACCORDING TO VISH, 15 MILLION POUNDS OF HAIR COLOUR IS WASTED EVERY YEAR.

recently launched a carbon neutral services program so that when salons join our platform, they’re automatically able to offer carbon neutral services to their clients.”

“Doing an audit on your business is also crucial,” adds Price. “Salons need to understand from a water waste standpoint and energy waste standpoint what can be done to implement more energy and water conservation so that you’re working on not only your environmental sustainability but also your financial sustainability.”

VISH, GREEN CIRCLE SALONS, ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES

“IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT RECYCLING; IT’S ABOUT REDUCING WHAT YOU’RE CONSUMING SO YOU’LL NEED TO RECYCLE LESS. RECYCLING ALONE IS NOT ENOUGH. INSTEAD, WE NEED TO ADDRESS THE PROBLEM AT THE POINT OF CONSUMPTION.”

— TIM HOWARD, CHIEF INNOVATION OFFICER, VISH

The Cost of Colour

One of the biggest environmental issues in the salon industry is hair colour waste. While Green Circle helps salons recycle excess colour, Vish offers colour management software that measures and tracks colour formulas to help reduce and prevent waste.

“Vish was created to control waste in salons since salon owners know how much [hair colour waste] impacts their bottom line,” says Tim Howard, chief innovation officer for Vish. Howard, who is a former salon owner with more than 25 years of industry experience, understands first-hand the financial and environmental toll that

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle… Refill!

While more professional beauty brands are integrating cleaner ingredients and formulas into their products, some have gone the extra mile to launch refillable products and programs to help cut down on excess waste and packaging.

Authentic Beauty Concept has started to roll out refill bars in select salons around the globe to promote its sustainable mission. Its program helps salons become more mindful of their consumption and try to reduce (if not eliminate) single-use plastics. How it works: Guests can bring their shampoo and conditioner bottles back to the salon and refill them with their favourite professional products. The dedicated refill bottles are made from 90 per cent PCR (post-consumer recycled) plastic and can be reused at least five times!

Wella has introduced Recharge Stations at select salons with the brand’s Elements refillable and recyclable pouches. Designed to reduce plastic consumption and waste, the pouches are made with 72 per cent less plastic than bottles, tubes and jars.

excess colour has on salons and the planet.

“Hair colour doesn’t just get wasted in the bowl but also in overapplication, which means you must replace your products quicker, which is more packaging, more shipping

and more product running down the drain and into our water waste and getting thrown into the environment unnecessarily,” he says. “This is a major issue, but you need to provide people with a clear solution if you want to change a

behaviour, so Vish was born to do just that. By providing information to each individual team member about how much product they’re using and expensing—not only what they’re wasting but also what they’re starting with—

“ONE MISCONCEPTION THAT PEOPLE HAVE IS THAT OUR OWN INDIVIDUAL EFFORTS WON’T MAKE A DIFFERENCE WHEN OUR CHALLENGES ARE ON SUCH A LARGE SCALE. BUT THE REALITY IS THAT THIS INDUSTRY IS ONE THAT CAN COLLECTIVELY GET TOGETHER AND MAKE A SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE.”

— SHANE PRICE, FOUNDER AND CEO, GREEN CIRCLE SALONS

you’ll gain insight so you can change some of those behaviours across the salon team.”

Although colour waste isn’t a new concept, Vish noticed a rising demand for its software during the pandemic. “We were signing up salons at a rapid rate because they started to clue in that if and when they reopened, they were going to be doing a lot of colour corrections and using a lot of product,” says Howard. “Using software like Vish

to manage their hair colour business is crucial since it’s the highest-ticket item in a salon. Being able to monitor where and how you’re consuming and what you should be charging without relying on manual processes or guesswork is huge—for both the planet and your business. It has a massive return on investment.”

Tapping Into Change

Another major issue in the industry is water overconsumption at the backbar. Ecoheads offers a sustainable showerhead for salon sinks and backbars that features a spray nozzle that removes sediment and rust, filters the water and increases pressure while reducing energy and water usage by up to 65 per cent.

“Ecoheads’s nozzle helps the artist, the client, the business and the planet,” says Tate. “Sometimes salons and stylists can be resistant to change, but when they see how Ecoheads ticks all the boxes, they come around. The Ecoheads nozzle is so easy, and it saves and cleans water, conserves energy and enhances what they do.”

While implementing Ecoheads is a small change that can have a big impact, it’s important to also address some of your team’s habits in the salon that might be contributing to your carbon footprint.

“The first thing that salons should be doing is talking about it and getting alignment internally on what they can do as a team,” says Tate. “Often stylists will have some of the best ideas, so talking about it is key. Sometimes the most sustainable salons don’t talk about it enough because they

“THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS—OR EXPECTATION OF—PERFECTION WHEN IT COMES TO SUSTAINABILITY. START SLOW AND SMALL AND FIND THOSE QUICK AND EASY WINS TO HELP YOU GAIN CONFIDENCE TO KEEP GOING.”

— VALORIE TATE, FOUNDER OF SUSTAIN BEAUTY CO. AND DISTRIBUTOR FOR ECOHEADS NORTH AMERICA

don’t want to toot their own horn, but being open about it brings a lot more awareness and can even be a great promotional tool.”

The topic of sustainability can feel very big and intimidating, leaving some salon owners and hairstylists overwhelmed or unsure of where to start and opting to do nothing. Tate says it’s important to remind them that it’s OK to make mistakes, nobody is perfectly and completely sustainable, and doing something—even if it’s small—is better than

not doing anything at all.

“Look at the easy wins,” she says. “Look at what’s going to spark interest across your entire organization. Don’t start with the hardest or biggest challenge because that’s going to shut down the whole conversation. Start with something that’s easily implementable that’s going to create a little appetite for the implementation of even more sustainable practices. It’s about building momentum; it’s not about being perfect tomorrow.”

DID YOU KNOW?

GREEN CIRCLE SALONS NOW HAVE MORE THAN 16,000 WASTE WARRIORS ACROSS NORTH AMERICA USING THEIR PROGRAM, WITH A 95 PER CENT RETENTION RATE.

Sustainability Successes

According to Howard, there are many small changes salons can make, such as switching to more sustainable alternatives, like paper foils made from recycled ingredients, and printing fewer documents and reports. He also recommends identifying employees who are interested in doing more for the environment and appointing them to help keep the rest of the team accountable and on track. “Find team members who

are passionate to lead that effort in your salon,” he says. “Salons can also benefit from their sustainable initiatives, such as entering competitions and winning awards to get acknowledgement from peers in the industry. It also helps attract clients who are seeking out salons that are less wasteful and whose values align with their goals.”

Howard suggests thinking about what else can be done in the salon: what lighting can be changed? What materials are used for the flooring? Are plastic or environmentally friendly products covering the chairs and furnishings in the salon? He says that once we start asking these questions, we start to realize how much we can change to be more eco-conscious.

He also says it’s important for salons to look to their manufacturers and the people they’re buying products from and ask what they’re doing: “Are they using post-consumer recycled plastics? Are they using packaging that is more sustainable?”

Is It Worth It?

As with anything, sustainability comes with a whole slew of myths and misconceptions that people— from salon owners to hairstylists to clients—believe that may impact their desire to be greener in their lives in and out of the salon.

“People think that being more sustainable is more expensive,” says Valorie Tate, founder of Sustain Beauty Co., a distributor for Ecoheads North America. “I think there’s something to that, but there’s also something to be said for the cost savings that go hand in hand with conservation. If you’re using less, you’re paying for less!”

“People think that the practices and products are too expensive or require a large investment,” says Cheryl Ross, sustainability manager for Green Circle Salons. “Some also think that sustainable products aren’t as e ective as other products or that sustainability is just a fad or a trend, which is why educating people and providing transparency and relevant data and research on the subject are so important. We must show salons the benefits of implementing sustainable practices into their business, lead by example and encourage them to educate their customers.”

“By aligning and partnering with companies that hold themselves accountable, it brings attention to things in the industry you want to change,” says Howard. “Changes like that on a higher level can really make an impact.”

PHOTOS: ECOHEADS, GREEN CIRCLE SALONS, ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

From working on photo shoots and Fashion Week to television and celebrities, the opportunities in the industry are endless. Ultimately, it’s up to hairstylists and beauty pros to decide where—and how far—they want to take their careers.

Session work offers a different type of creativity, enabling you to refine and expand your skill set through its fastpaced, high-pressure environments. It can also provide more exposure and recognition as you build your portfolio. However, no matter what your reasons are for venturing into session styling, it requires a commitment and hard work to be successful.

“The success of a session hairstylist is 10 per cent about getting a lucky break and someone giving you that chance; the rest is about hard work and everything you’ve done behind the scenes to represent yourself,” says Cindy Duplantis, a celebrity hairstylist who works with Redken and Chatters and a hair expert on The Marilyn Denis Show. “Taking the time to shadow, assist and watch others in the industry can be so helpful and is crucial to starting your career in the session world.”

Photo Shoots

Creating hair for fashion shoots and advertising campaigns is very different from creating hair for a client behind the chair. Since you’re often working with a brand or magazine on these projects, it requires more of a collaboration than some artists are used to. The difference is that you will have to manage different demands from people on set, which can range from creative directors and wardrobe stylists to models and managers.

For Kevin Hughes, a Los Angelesbased editorial hairstylist and global artistic director for Moroccanoil, his journey started on his own accord through collaborating, assisting and taking every job he could, and he recommends that others do the same.

“I needed to create a portfolio to send to agencies, so I started collaborating on shoots with other hairstylists, makeup artists and photographers to create work for us to showcase,” he says. “I was able to network and build a lot of connections that way, too.”

There are many reasons to consider becoming a session hairstylist, and for Duplantis, she pursued a career because of her love of finishing hair. She says she would practise updos on anyone who would let her, which led to her working on her own photo shoots.

“Doing hair for editorial is very

With session work being a dream for many in the industry, we caught up with editorial hairstylists to learn how they got their start and find out what it’s really like working behind the scenes.

different because, in a picture, your vision and work changes,” she says. “When you’re creating hair for an image, it’s two-dimensional versus three-dimensional. This can benefit you because you can do things that give off an illusion in the photo, but it can also be difficult at first because you aren’t used to thinking about how hair is going to look from behind the lens of a camera.”

“When you’re doing hair for fashion or editorial shoots, it can be really loud,” adds Robin LaChance, a hairstylist at Tinted Love Hair Studio in Barrie, Ont., and an educator for Schwarzkopf Professional. “In the salon, the hair kind of whispers or talks to you, but for photo shoots, it’s more of that artistic expression, so it’s screaming at you in a way. Editorial work allows you to take those shapes and silhouettes that you like and exaggerate them to make them more creative, fun and eccentric.”

Part of the process of creating editorial work is training your eye to see what a camera sees. Luckily, in a society where cellphones are at our disposal, this can be done in many ways. When scrolling through magazines or social media platforms, take note of elements like lighting and angles and how those affect the hair in the image. Another great way is to start photographing your own work, even with just your cellphone, so you can see the differences between what the hair looks like on camera and what it looks like in person.

PRO TIP

DUPLANTIS SHARES THAT “LESS IS MORE” WHEN IT COMES TO PRODUCT USE ON SET. IT’S A LOT EASIER TO ADD MORE PRODUCT TO THE HAIR THAN REMOVE IT. KEEP IN MIND THAT PRODUCT CAN SHOW UP IN THE IMAGE, SO YOU DON’T WANT TO USE TOO MUCH.

2.Competitions

Another tip when working with brands on photo shoots is to discuss the overall vision in detail and make sure that you’re asking the brand questions and taking notes to ensure that you’re on the same page.

Practising as many looks as you can to prepare yourself for editorial shoots is always a good idea. You won’t always know who your model is or what their hair type and texture will be. Knowing how to create a wide range of styles on all hair types and textures will ensure that you feel confident in the work you’re creating and give the brand or company you’re working with confidence in you, too.

“If you’re new to the scene, familiarize yourself with a few different styles that range from straight to textured to structured on long and short hair,” says Duplantis. “Having those looks on your phone is a great way to go about it because you can show brands what you can do.”

Much like editorial shoots, photo-based competitions require a lot of work and training, but the key difference is that you can start the process yourself and have full creative control on set.

For Melita Campellone, Contessa 2022 Session Hairstylist of the Year winner and Montreal-based educator for Oribe, her competition journey started because she was in search of something more. “I wanted a new challenge, and since session work isn’t something I get to do behind the chair, I knew I needed an outlet to do it,” she says. “A lot of thought, work and organization went into my collections, so sometimes I would have to remind myself of the reasons why I started. But I would see the work I was capable of creating and the feeling of excitement is such a rush.” In addition to the creative freedom of taking a small idea and turning it into something much bigger, participating in competitions provide a chance to connect with other stylists and brands in the industry. This allows you to get

“A LOT OF STYLISTS RIGHT OUT OF SCHOOL WANT TO JUMP AHEAD INSTEAD OF DOING THINGS FOR FREE OR WORKING AS AN ASSISTANT, BUT THAT’S REALLY HOW YOU BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE, GAIN EXPERIENCE AND MAKE THOSE CONNECTIONS.”

— CINDY DUPLANTIS, CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST AND HAIR EXPERT ON THE MARILYN DENIS SHOW

your name out there and may even open doors for other opportunities in session work.

“I’ve been given really big opportunities in my career because of my creative, editorial and session work,” says LaChance. “I’ve been able to create my own classes and through them, I’ve connected with a lot of like-minded individuals, both nationally and globally.”

When working on a shoot for a competition for the first time, there are many things that you can do to make the process less overwhelming. “Choose a team that you feel supported by because you need people to lean on,” says LaChance. “Take things off your plate so you can focus on the hair and ideas. If it’s not working, don’t be discouraged and just pivot to another direction.”

“I would recommend starting by attending and researching the competitions that you want to enter and seeing what they’re all about,” says Campellone. “Find out who the winners are and look at their collections so you can see what quality of work the judges are looking for.”

“While it can seem overwhelming, decide what categories you want to enter to give you guidance,” she adds. “That way, you can create a plan and learn what requirements your work has to meet. The rest is all about being creative and opening up your mind to let things flow, even if they don’t fit with your original vision. Be prepared to go with the flow.”

Regardless of whether you win or not, there are many lessons that can be

learned through competition shoots. From collaborating with others and expanding your portfolio to trying something outside the box and letting your creativity roam free, competitions can help you advance your craft. “Don’t create just to win trophies; create for yourself,” says LaChance. “If you create what your heart and eyes like to see, it’s always a win. Art comes from passion fuelled by love. If you only shoot to win, you will miss out on all the best parts of making a collection.”

Celebrity Hair

While working with celebrities may be a dream for some (and a nightmare for others), it can be a great way to get your name and work out there while showcasing your skill set. And as much fun as it can be, it’s important to remember that it requires hard work that often demands long days, early mornings and high expectations and involves working with a wide range of personalities.

“When I was first starting out, there weren’t any big agencies for stylists in Vancouver, so I started volunteering my time and working with makeup artists and fashion stylists, which really allowed me to get my name out there,” says James Valiant, a celebrity hairstylist and instructor at Suki’s in Vancouver. “Through that experience, I learned that the session hair industry is so small, and they like to use the same people. That’s why it’s a good idea to start by assisting and doing things for free so you can network.”

“I think session work offers a different type of creativity, and I think it also allows you to diversify your skills,” he adds. “I have the most fun working with celebrities when they’re going to events because I work with the makeup artist, fashion stylist and creative director, and I really love the collaboration.”

While working with celebrities comes with its perks, it’s not all about the glitz and glamour. Remembering to treat celebrities like any other client while respecting their personal boundaries comes with the territory. “You really have to respect the person,” says Hughes. “I don’t ever ask too many questions or ask for photos, and I try not to talk too much because they have a lot going on. You want to be respectful of that and realize that it’s not the same environment as a client that comes

“FIND A GOOD MENTOR, AND ASK THEM FOR HELP. I ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT STYLISTS GUARDED THEIR CREATIVITY. I DIDN’T REALIZE THAT YOU COULD JUST ASK SOMEONE AND THEY WOULD TELL YOU HOW TO DO SOMETHING.”

— ROBIN LACHANCE, ONTARIO-BASED STYLIST AND EDUCATOR FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

to you in a salon. Have that etiquette, respect their talent and remember that they aren’t a friend.”

However, one thing that is similar to in-salon clients is the importance of consultations. Duplantis says that asking the right questions is the key to getting celebrities to trust you. “I ask for details about what they’re wearing, their accessories and the vibe they’re going for, as well as their preferences about their hair, like where they like to part their hair and things like that,” she says. “The consultation part is just as important, and that’s when you have to treat the celebrity as you would any other client. If anything, you have to give them a little bit more love because they’re nervous. By asking the right questions, you’re giving them value and getting on the same page as them. Plus, you’re showing that you are confident in your abilities, which, in turn, will give them confidence in you.”

As for the actual styling of celebrity hair, foundation is key. Learning how to make a style last is imperative because most of the time stylists are doing the hair hours before the actual event. “A lot of people don’t realize that foundation really is everything because you need to create styles that last,” says

PRO TIP WHEN WORKING ON SET OF A TV SHOW, TAKE AS MANY NOTES AND PHOTOS OF YOUR WORK AS YOU CAN, SO YOU’LL KNOW EXACTLY HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK.

Hughes. “Learn those foundations on all hair types because every hair type is different, certain hair types require certain care, and you want to know how to be able to do that.”

“Those old-school techniques need to be learned because those are the skills that have been proven over time to work,” adds Valiant. “Curling irons are great, but they’re only good for a certain look. If you have those foundational skills, that can really push you to the next level. Know your basics: roller sets, backcombing and finger waves.”

Valiant says it’s also important to be comfortable working with hair pieces and extensions. “So many celebrities use wigs to change their looks, and they do it very often, so being knowledgeable and able to use them is very important.”

TV and Film Work

Another route you can take in the session world is to work in television or film. Being an on-air expert allows you to be in front of the camera, while working on hair on TV or film sets enables you to showcase your skill set behind the scenes.

“I had an opportunity to do the hair for a television pilot and it gave me an interesting perspective because the work you do is different than other session work,” says LaChance. “You have to make the hair look exactly the same for about 12 to 16 hours in the day, so continuity is a huge thing. I had to remember not to be too elaborate and out there with my ideas because I had to be able to recreate that multiple times in a day or multiple days in a row, and I had to prepare myself to stare at the same thing all day long, which is very different than photo shoot work and working behind the chair.”

“As a hair expert on television, I’m working in front of the camera to share

“YOU HAVE TO BUILD THOSE CONNECTIONS, NOT JUST WITH OTHER STYLISTS BUT WITH OTHER PHOTOGRAPHERS, MAKEUP ARTISTS AND FASHION STYLISTS. THE MORE CONNECTIONS YOU HAVE, THE MORE EXPERIENCE YOU GET AND THE BETTER YOU BECOME.”

— JAMES VALIANT, CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST AND INSTRUCTOR AT SUKI’S IN VANCOUVER

— KEVIN HUGHES, EDITORIAL HAIRSTYLIST AND GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR MOROCCANOIL

Fashion Week

my knowledge with the audience and I’m also working with clients on camera,” says Duplantis. “I like to tell people that you have to remember that you’re a hairstylist first.”

Duplantis adds that when working with TV clients on camera, she always does a full consultation so she can get to know her client and what they want, just as she would in a salon environment. The key difference is remembering not to do something drastic to the client’s hair. Just because it’s going to look good on television doesn’t mean it’s going to work for the client on a daily basis.

“You also have to keep in mind that when you’re working with a client on television, that’s their first time being in front of a camera in that way,” she says. “You want to make sure you’re walking them through the process completely to make them comfortable and confident. I like to give them a little bit more coddling than a client behind the chair to help take those butterflies away.”

Getting used to talking to a camera is also part of the job. While it can be nerve-wracking for anyone to be on television at first, taking every opportunity to speak in front of people and practise before your debut is a good idea.

Hairstylists who are hired to work backstage at Fashion Week have to be able to thrive in a fast-paced environment while also work collaboratively with designers and makeup artists on the overall look.

“I began by assisting at New York Fashion Week, and it’s a great way to learn about the whole process and get used to how everything works,” says Hughes. “One of my best pieces of advice for any hairstylist who’s looking to do the same is to make sure your ego is checked. A lot of people go into this wanting to be a star and, while it could happen, you have to remember that it’s a lot of work and you need to be open to learning. Keep your mind open, watch the main stylists like a hawk, and pay attention to everything that’s going on. Taking all of the information and then being able to apply it to your own process is priceless.”

Staying up to date with your education is imperative to help you advance your career and get noticed by brands and designers. Not only does education help you keep up with trends and techniques but it can also help you get comfortable working with others.

“It’s about being able to create someone’s vision without just copying it,” says Hughes. “I realized that you have to work with others. It really does take a village, and you need to hear other people’s point of view and be open to that.”

“I’m also a perfectionist, which was another challenge for me because I learned that you have to pivot or change things sometimes,” he adds. “I learn something at almost every show because they always ask things of me that have never been asked before. While this work comes with press coverage that is great and allows me to continue to expand my portfolio, I think one of the greatest things about this type of work is that it can inspire others and spark creativity in them.”

“YOU HAVE TO BE CONSCIOUS OF HOW YOU PRESENT AND CARRY YOURSELF ON SET BECAUSE THAT COULD BE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BOOKING ANOTHER JOB AND NOT.”

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, DESINTONIO PACHECO

CO LLE CTIO NS

March+April

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

From avant-garde to texture, this Canadian collection showcases a range of romantic and out-of-the-box styles.

HAIR Contessa 2023 Finalist, Canadian Hairstylist, James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley, B.C. MAKEUP Ashley Young WARDROBE STYLING James Abu-Ulba PHOTOS Coby Photography

HAIR Contessa 2023 Finalist, Ontario Hairstylist, Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto MAKEUP J Ladner WARDROBE STYLING Ben Barkworth PHOTOS Parker Burr

Showcasing a striking range of men’s haircuts and styles, this Canadian collection is a total knockout.

Ultra-feminine looks are spotlighted in this collaborative collection from the attendees of Schwarzkopf Professional U.K.’s Lights!

Camera! Action! course.

CREATIVE DIRECTION Suzie McGill HAIR Alessio Baldassarri & Stephanie Grey (La Medusa), Chloe Andrews (Julian’s Hair Salons), Amber Webster & Warren Wilde (Urban Hair), Tara Smith (Secrets hairdressing), Ludovic Jehanno (Mikael & Ludovic Hair Design), Mel Ferlisi & Richard Bennett (77 The Hill) MAKEUP Maddie Austin WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Jack Eames

Session meets street in this effortlessly chic British collection.

HAIR Kerry Mather, KJM Salons, U.K. MAKEUP Lauren Mathis WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles

Combining inspiration from painter Mondrian and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, this British collection takes colour-blocking to the next level.

HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING Anne Veck, Anne Veck Oxford, U.K. MAKEUP Morgan Defre PHOTOS Desmond Murray

Suzanne Maurice

For Ontario-based salon owner Suzanne Maurice, her interest in a career as a hairstylist started when she was watching and learning from inside the walls of another hair salon. “When I was 15, I went with my mom and my sister to their hairstylist, Renato Demicheli,” she says. “He amazed me because he was so precise. Before that, I didn’t understand the skills involved in hairstyling. I started just showing up at his salon and asking him a bunch of questions. I was just watching all of the things he was working on and trying to learn as much as I could.”

For Maurice, her interest in hair began at an even younger age. “I was always artsy and crafty, so I would create hairdos on my dolls or friends as a way to work with an artistic fibre,” she says.

“I never thought about it as a career until I kept going back to Renato’s salon to watch him, while working part-time in a salon, and then I decided to attend hair school after I finished high school.”

Elements of Inspiration

For her 2023 finalist collection for Ontario Hairstylist, Maurice garnered inspiration from lace shirts worn by her models. “When it comes to creating collections, I normally go through daily life keeping an eye out for things that may inspire me,” she says. “I saw the lace shirts and the muted tones really inspired me. The lace was so light and dreamy, and the ethereal movement created in the lace reminded me of smoke, so I ran with it.”

Maurice says she wanted to create

different textures in her models’ hair to represent each state of smoke (solid, liquid and gas). “For the model with the pink hair, in order to mimic the solid state of smoke, I used a curling iron set and backcombed the hair so I could create the billowing shape. I added a bit of structure to it with the braids,” she says. “To represent gas, I used a rickrack set with very small pieces of my model’s hair, brushed it out and added the puffs by her face.” For her last look, Maurice created a finger wave set to give the hair a wet look and represent liquid, and encourages all hairstylists to learn how to create finger waves.

Putting Herself Out There

While Maurice began competing because of the extra free time she had during the pandemic’s lockdowns, she continues to compete because of the creative outlet it offers her. “Getting to do really big creative stuff outside of the salon’s regular hustle and bustle really brought me back to life and woke up that creative side to hairstyling that had been long asleep,” she says. “I was focusing so much on the grind of getting everybody in and out, so competing is a good outlet for me. It’s a different animal and it uses a different part of my brain and heart, and I think the parts that it does use are the ones that drew a lot of us to the industry in the first place.”

“I want to explore other branches of the industry, like education and live shows, and I believe competing is a great way to do that.”

Self-Care Success

With increasing consumer awareness around sustainability and self-care, we caught up with two salon owners to learn how they’ve elevated their guest experience by taking a more holistic approach to hair—and their business.

From being more ingredient-conscious to becoming more mindful about mental health, more and more clients have a heightened awareness of green and clean beauty trends, products and services and are seeking feel-good options to help them look and feel better from the inside out.

“I think consumers appreciate those things a lot more now,” says Roberto Sinopoli, owner of Verde Salon in Winnipeg. “They’re willing to spend money on them, but they want to get good value for their money. It should be a relaxing experience for the guest because they want to take that time for themselves, but the products should actually work.”

Scalp Therapy

As more professional beauty brands have launch skincare-inspired products for hair, there’s been a rising demand for scalp care. And while scalp massages have been a mainstay for many salon backbars—included with the client’s shampoo—some salon owners are expanding their service menu to offer more treatment options and build business around scalp care.

For Sinopoli, his salon offers onehour scalp treatments with benefits for anti-aging, thinning hair and overall scalp renewal. “Healthy hair starts at

the scalp, and I believe it’s something that gets overlooked by our guests,” he says. “The treatment business is very good for salons, and it’s a great way to increase your revenue by anywhere from six to 15 per cent.”

“Our treatments are very relaxing for guests in the salon, and I think it’s something they truly appreciate,” he adds. “We also have take-home

scalp-care products, but offering the treatment in the salon has many benefits for guests coming in and the salon as a business.”

For Dat Tran, a hairstylist and owner of Album Hair in Toronto, he’s been in search of ways to take scalp care to the next level. Last November, he launched Scalp Massage Therapy, a clinical approach to scalp-care treatments in which he works with a registered massage therapist (RMT), to provide his clients with a thorough consultation and analysis to help identify any hair and scalp concerns, such as dryness, oiliness, thinning hair, scalp irritation and eczema. Available in 15-, 30- and 60-minute intervals, the treatments include a pre-shampoo hair treatment, deep scalp purifying

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: BRIAN BUETTNER, DAT TRAN

mask and exfoliation that use certifiedorganic and high-performance active ingredients and essential oils.

“Many of us use serums for our skin to add elasticity and collagen and prevent oily or dry skin,” he says. “The scalp has the same things, but no one really educates on that and how we prolong and aid in that aspect—going above and beyond shaping the hair and haircut. That’s just the external part. How do we focus on the internal part? I wanted to add an RMT to the service because they have points they can focus on to stimulate the scalp that extends to the shoulder, neck and back.”

Tran strongly believes in the benefits and aspires to educate other salons about the service so that they can integrate it into their businesses, too. He’s hopeful that the service can help beauty professionals as well.

“The service helps with anxiety, stress and migraines,” he says. “During COVID, we’re getting to a point of exhaustion. People are trying to do as much as they can, but they don’t know how many treatments are available.”

Beauty in Sustainability

In addition to self-care, having a sustainable approach has been beneficial for salons. As more clients seek businesses that align with their own values, it can help salons grow their clientele.

“I believe consumers are very conscious of the impact they have on the environment, and they are consciously sourcing out businesses that they feel they can trust and are doing their part,” says Sinopoli. “At this point, I don’t think it should be optional anymore; it should be mandatory that we consider what consequences our actions have on our planet and in our communities.”

For Sinopoli, being eco-conscious has been a mission for his team since day one. His salons have partnered with Green Circle Salons to recycle their waste. While sustainability speaks to him on a business level and personal level, the additional costs are not easily absorbed. Therefore, he and his team have thought of innovative ways to offset the extra costs associated with

being more sustainable. In addition to implementing an eco-fee, the salon offers a Recycle & Save program, which enables his clients and guests to bring in their used or empty beauty products (from any brand) and recycle them through Green Circle Salons to receive a 10 per cent discount on any product. “It’s been a win-win for everyone,” he says.

“I BELIEVE IF YOU OFFER MORE OF AN EXPERIENCE AND CAN ATTACH IT TO THE RETAIL YOU’RE OFFERING, PEOPLE ARE WILLING TO PAY FOR THAT.”

—ROBERTO SINOPOLI, OWNER OF VERDE SALON, WINNIPEG

Real and Resilient

Learn about how Danielle Priano rose up from the streets of New York City to become a highly sought-after, globe-trotting celebrity hairstylist.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Tell us about how you got your start in the beauty industry.

I didn’t have an average upbringing. My childhood was kind of crazy. My mom gave me away to my aunt, who sent me somewhere else. I was a street kid who only had an eighth-grade education, and I really had no idea what I was going to do at all. Hair was really the only thing I was good at and all I knew how to do, which is why I made the decision to go to hair school.

After I finished hair school, I called my uncle, who had a big hair and makeup agency. I let him know that I was ready to be represented by him, and he told me that I was crazy because that’s not how it worked. He got me a job at a salon, where I assisted, but before I could do that, I had to get to the salon early to help clean the toilets and get everyone coffee, which I did not like and I was vocal about that. They ended up firing me and told me that I would never make it in this industry in New York City.

My uncle offered me a job working inside the office at his agency, assisting stylists he represented. One day, he told me that Mariah Carey needed someone to do her hair and asked if I was ready. I went to the appointment, we hit it off and I ended up doing all of her daily appointments while assisting. After doing that for a while, her stylist couldn’t do her hair for one of her shows, so her manager asked me to do

it. From there, I started doing her hair for all of her big shows and events.

Did you dream of becoming a celebrity hairstylist?

I didn’t even know what being a celebrity or editorial hairstylist entailed. My uncle and I weren’t close to the point where he would talk to me about his business. There are some people who live and breathe fashion, but I wasn’t one of those people. I wasn’t a fan of any celebrity, and I didn’t go to concerts. Even to this day, I don’t look at them differently than other people because, at the end of the day, they’re just people. I didn’t know exactly what I wanted to do in the industry, but I knew that I wanted to support my kids and I could do that by working with hair.

What do you enjoy most about working with hair?

I never feel like I’m working. My job is so fun that, when I’m not working, I’m always thinking about it and wanting to work on my clients’ hair. I get to meet the most amazing people and travel the world! The most amazing part is the reaction you get from people when you make them feel like a better version of themselves through their hair. A lot of the clients I have don’t look the same after glam, so I think making them feel like the best version of themselves and then getting the callback to do it again are two very satisfying things to me.

We spend so much of our life working, and I think it’s so amazing that I’m able to work in a job that doesn’t even feel like work because of how much I love it.

What advice do you have for other stylists who want to work as celebrity or editorial stylists but don’t know where to start?

Find a hairstylist you love who is doing what you want to be doing, reach out to them and send them a message— whether directly or through their manager—and ask to assist them. I have three assistants, and I found them because they reached out to me. That’s your way in. When I work with a client, they constantly see my assistants. They get comfortable with them, so if I can’t do something, I send my assistant. That’s how I got in, and I still think it’s a great way to get your foot in the door. You have to remember that things take time and won’t happen overnight, but assisting someone gives you access to not only their knowledge but also their contacts and network.

What’s the secret to working with celebrities and creating red-carpet styles?

When you’re working with a celebrity, there are so many different events you could be prepping them for. They could be performing, acting or walking a red carpet, but you have to remember that it doesn’t make them any different from you or me. At the end of the day, we can all do hair to some extent or we wouldn’t be where we are, but my key ingredient is the energy you bring into the room. You’re the last person to touch the

client before they walk out of the room, so you have to make it fun and light. You can’t put what you’re going through onto the client, and you have to compartmentalize what you’re going through until the job is done.

As for technical tips, you have to keep in mind that you need to make the look last. To do that, you have to build the foundation of the hair properly. I’m obsessed with details and making the look perfect to the point where some clients might get a little annoyed, but I would rather touch it up as many times as possible to make sure that I know it’s

going to be perfect. In the end, the client will respect and understand it because it will turn out the way they wanted and last a long time. You have to be fearless and trust yourself.

You’re also a SexyHair Style Ambassador. What do you enjoy most about your role and working with the brand?

A lot of brands may look at me and think I’m a little rough around the edges or a little loud, but SexyHair embraces who I am and the idea of what sexy is. I’m not like the average person.

If you don’t know me, you might be taken aback when you first meet me because of my personality and the fact that I don’t have a filter. I love that I can be my true and authentic self with SexyHair and that they don’t try to change who I am. I can have a voice, I can be who I am, and I can share what my journey through life has been. The realness behind the brand is amazing. To them, sexy hair isn’t just beautiful hair but an energy. To them, sexy can be anything and anyone, and the brand encourages people to be who they want to be.

Interiors

Take a look at how this salon combines Brazilian beach town decor with Italian architecture to create a zen and airy salon experience.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

For salon owner, stylist and TV beauty expert Salvatore Leonetti, opening a salon in Toronto’s upscale Yorkville neighbourhood was a natural fit. “I started in the hair industry by assisting and becoming an apprentice at a hair salon in Yorkville,” he says. “When I was 25 years old, I decided to take the plunge and become a salon owner, and now I’ve been in the industry for more than 20 years.”

After owning his first salon for 15 years, Leonetti decided it was time for a new space with a new

look, all the while remaining in the same area where he built a career, and Leonetti+Co Salon was born. “I knew that I wanted to open my space in the same area that I had been working in and felt that by having my hands working on the same street that I learned the craft on, I couldn’t go wrong,” he says. “I made a calculated risk because I opened up a salon close to where I trained and where I had already built my clientele. I think it was important to me to maintain that familiarity when it came to opening up my own space and it eliminated a lot of the risks.”

Leonetti and his wife, Maria Alencar Leonetti, began the process by finding the right space for them, although she admits that she didn’t even get to see the space before committing to it.

“When I walked into the space for the first time, it was a no-brainer,” she says. “The view and the

Beachy Chic

lighting were amazing, and when it came to the design of the space, I knew that we just had to put some love into it to make it our own.”

Inspired by Their Travels

The husband-and-wife duo and their family often travel to South America and Italy, which is where they garnered a lot of their design inspiration.

“During one of our trips to Italy, we went to Sicily and we just loved all of the architecture and the arches,” says Maria. “We knew we loved the feel, but we didn’t want that traditional look. When we went to Brazil, we spent a week in a beach town called Iriri. It was so beautiful. The lifestyle was amazing, and everything was so well manicured and Pinterest worthy, but the thing that really got us was the energy. It was so light and positive. The surfers were walking around barefoot and there

was still a sophistication in the air, and we wanted to replicate that feeling.”

“We ultimately wanted a creative space for the team because even though I’m in the salon a lot, when I’m not behind the chair I’m working on Cityline, so I don’t have the time to micromanage,” adds Leonetti. “We wanted the vibe that we created in the salon to be the same vibe that the team has, and we like to bring on like-minded stylists while giving them creative freedom.”

After deciding on the ambience they wanted to create, the pair hired a team of contractors and architects to help with the drawings of the layout and the build. “You can have a company come in and do everything for you, but a lot of times these companies don’t know the day-to-day,” says Leonetti. “The stylist who’s opening the salon does, and they’ve been in the business long enough

PHOTOS: ELIJAH NICHOLS

PHOTOS: ELIJAH NICHOLS

to know where they want things to go and what they need out of the space. It’s really important not to let go of all control and your vision.”

Functional Features

The couple says there was a lot of communication involved when it came to deciding on what elements were necessary to improve the overall function of the salon. “Sal is the one who’s on the floor, so I sat down with him and asked him what he needed out of the space, what he needed out of the stations and lighting, etc.,” says Maria. “There were many times when I was going to the site and telling the team to change something because I knew, based on what Sal wanted, that it wasn’t going to work for the day-to-day.”

“I knew I wanted our clients to be able to see us mixing their colour,” says Leonetti. “Sometimes in a salon, a colourist will come out to talk to the client, and then they’ll disappear to mix the colour. It’s the most scientific part of our industry and, for some reason, we hide it, so having our colour bar open was something I knew the space needed and I’ve noticed that I love watching the clients watch the colourists. They love to see what goes into the colour, so we achieved what we were looking for and it has become my

favourite area of the salon.”

“In addition to doing hair, I really love to cook and I love the process of going to a restaurant and seeing an open kitchen,” he adds. “It’s one thing to [enjoy the end result] but it’s another thing to see their creativity when they’re making it.”

Leonetti+Co Salon was a 2023 Contessa finalist for Salon Interior

DETAILS

Opened in 2022

SIZE

1,800 square feet

TEAM 15 BRANDS

Kérastase

Sachajuan

Mela & Kera

L’Oréal Redken

WEBSITE leonettiandco.com

SOCIAL @leonetti.co

Design. After seeing the salon come together, Leonetti shares that he feels an immense feeling of accomplishment. “This salon took four months to complete, but it has really been 22 years in the making,” he says. “I reached a new pinnacle in my career, and I was fortunate enough to do it with my super-creative wife. We really put everything into this space.”

With “Ignite” as this year’s theme, the summit kicked off with a welcome message from Phorest’s CEO and founder, Ronan Perceval, who shared his story of how he was inspired to create the company 20 years ago while he was working as a receptionist in a Dublin salon.

Highlights from Phorest’s 2023 Salon Owners Summit

With more than 600 attendees from across Canada, the United States, the United Kingdom, Australia and Ireland, Phorest held its seventh annual Salon Owners Summit for salon owners, managers and beauty professionals.

When & Where: January 8 to 9, Dublin, Ireland

Throughout the summit, the company’s leadership team, including chief product officer Paddy Monaghan, took the stage to share some of their exciting new features and launches for 2023.

Among the attendees was Bruce Peters, owner of Zazou Salon & Academy in North Vancouver, a longtime Phorest user who appeared onstage with the brand’s head of data, Brian Long, to share one of Phorest’s new reporting features.

Workshops were also held on important industry topics including mental health, led by barber and educator Tom Chapman.

The two-day conference featured a wide range of industry experts, business coaches and motivational speakers, including Jason Everett from the High Performance Salon Academy.

Phorest’s lead product designer, Rich Cullen, and research manager, Verna Wall, shared success stories from salons and insightful stats and ideas to help businesses grow and retain clients and staff.

Salon owner, colourist and educator Sophia Hilton led a seminar on workplace toxicity in salons.

Following the first day of seminars and workshops, the event held a networking drink reception and high-energy Bingo Loco that brought everyone together for a night of dancing, laughs and fun.

The event also included workshops that provided business advice and inspiration for everything from pricing structures to salon culture to hiring, along with guest speakers who discussed the importance of sustainability, building a brand, elevating the guest experience and more.

Joining Forces

L’Oréal Canada’s subsidiary, SalonCentric Canada, has acquired Ontario-based distributor Alternative Beauty Services Ltd. The acquisition will enable L’Oréal to expand its distribution in Ontario while bringing SalonCentric to the Canadian market. “We are very excited about this partnership with SalonCentric,” says Tony Marinaccio, president of Alternative Beauty Services Ltd. “This partnership provides us with the opportunity to keep doing the incredible work we’ve already been doing while enabling us to become a modern-day distributor that is adapting to the ever-changing needs of both today and tomorrow’s professional beauty industry.”

The Art of Hair

Wella Company has partnered with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts) in Paris for Des Cheveux et des Poils (Hair & Hairs). The upcoming exhibition takes viewers on a journey through 600 works—all made between the 15th century and today—to showcase the historical, cultural and personal influence of hair and grooming on physical appearance and societal perception throughout the years. The exhibition aims to explore the relationship between the body and fashion, focusing on the history of hairstyles and body grooming. Among the works are highlights from Wella Company’s contributions to the beauty industry, which include the first hair dryers with builtin motors and other archival hair tools, historic marketing materials for products such as Wella’s Koleston, which is known as “the first hair colour cream in a tube,” and neverbefore-seen work by Wella Professionals global creative artist Alexis Ferrer. The exhibition opens on April 5th and runs through September 17th.

Powerful Partnership

John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) has recently appointed land protector and model Quannah Chasinghorse as its newest global ambassador. A model and member of the Alaskan and Canadian Hän Gwich’in tribe and South Dakota Oglala Lakota tribe, Chasinghorse is redefining beauty and sharing her heritage while advocating for climate action and the preservation of Indigenous lands. JPMS and Chasinghorse will be collaborating on the brand’s 2023 Iconic Campaign, which will celebrate bold and fearless trailblazers through a wide range of initiatives. The campaign will share Chasinghorse’s commitment to authenticity, equity, self-expression and inclusion. The partnership will also help further promote JPMS’s sustainability initiatives.

Sustainability from the Source

Spearheading the eco-conscious efforts for an international professional beauty brand is no easy feat. We chatted with Dr. Elmar Mussenbrock, global director of sustainability for KAO Salon Division, to get the lowdown on how he’s continuing to help the company and its brands make meaningful changes.

Tell us about yourself and your role. I’m a bit of a generalist, which is important for my role. I’m a doctor in chemistry, so I can speak on a high level to our R&D folks. I’ve been working in the beauty business for 26 years in marketing, so I know the business side very well. I need to be able to talk to the brand to push them to be more sustainable, so it’s very important that I can speak to both—I understand the business needs and the technical challenges. Lastly, I’m a son of a hairdresser.

What are some of the key points of difference in KAO’s sustainability strategy?

For KAO Salon Division, sustainability is not only something we do with our products and services but also in our partnership with salons. It’s a journey that we can only make together, and it’s really important to help salons be better. When I’m talking to salons, the topic of sustainability is often a complex topic. Sometimes, we’re overwhelmed by what’s good and what’s bad. For us, the first step is to ramp up the knowledge of our salon partners so they’re confident in making the right decisions, and that means we’re spending a lot of effort to communicate what sustainability means. When you build knowledge, you have to plant the seed to help salons start their own journeys.

Using recycled materials for packaging seems to be one of the first steps that many brands take on their environmental journeys. What are some of the challenges around this in our industry?

Our priority in our packaging strategy is not to ensure that everything is recyclable but to reduce packaging as much as we can. I always say that what has not been produced can’t harm the planet.

That’s why we’re coming out with a lot of pouch solutions, even when some hairdressers are resistant because [the pouches] aren’t as beautiful. If you educate them on how much waste and emissions you’re saving, they’ll likely go that route since there are some products in the salon, like treatments and shampoos, that are used in high quantities. For us, it’s important to reduce as much as we can.

More and more brands are setting big sustainability commitments. How do you work with KAO to ensure that the goals and initiatives you set are realistic?

If you’re only setting low goals for yourself to be able to achieve them, I think that’s the wrong strategy. For us, it’s very important to continuously report where we are. Because we always want to do things the right way and be

fully transparent, I think it’s not always bad to say when you didn’t crack it. If you have 20 goals and you reach 19 of them, I think that’s absolutely fair. We know that consumers don’t expect you to change the world in one day. You have to inform consumers that you’re making steady progress.

Any tips for salon owners and stylists on how they can do their part?

Something clever that a leading salon in sustainability in Norway has done is to collect colour waste over a day or a week in a glass bowl. With that visual alone, your team sees—and might be surprised by—how much colour is wasted in the salon. Seeing is believing, and it’s a little step to having that sustainability mindset to start a team challenge to reduce colour waste by 10 per cent, for example. Another salon leader in sustainability from the U.K. has saved 25 per cent of colour waste, which equates to money and makes a huge difference.

First and most importantly, look at your energy. Are you using renewable energy? If not, change your contract or provider. Second, watch not only your water consumption but also your warm water consumption. Third, separate your waste, and partner with a company like Green Circle Salons to dispose of plastic separately. Build your awareness, and create a mission as a team.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: KAO

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