I was six when I visited Taiwan for the first time, with my parents. My relatives took us to see the sea-sculpted rocks at Yeliu from Taipei, six of us crammed into a small, slow car. I whined throughout what is now a 35minute journey. My great-aunt plied me with wax apples, pork jerky and taro pastries. It’s only in hindsight that I realise how much of Taiwan was captured by my memory of that day – the warm and easy-going people, the agricultural diversity, and how within minutes the city melts away into the surreality of strange and wondrous nature.
The last few years have seen many people from all over relocate to Taiwan, some with close ties to the country like myself, many more without. For immigrants and sojourners, Taiwan is a place that lets them live well for little, and, as one of Asia’s most progressive and democratic societies, a place that lets them be.
My favourite experience is exploring Kaohsiung’s portside Yancheng District to see how artists and community-minded, thirdgeneration owners are reimagining this former hangout of seafarers, smugglers and US marines. To read more about Kaohsiung, go to.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our second writer and expert chooses the place which, for them, defines Taiwan
The sleepy seaside town of Taitung feels like a possibility of another Taiwan, one that is not caught up in geopolitics. Life here moves to a different rhythm; about a third of the population are indigenous people and many urbanites settle here to escape the rat race. Facing the Pacific Ocean, looking east, there is also a sense of new beginnings trapped in the tang of salt in the air.
Dinah has lived, loved and worked in Hong Kong, Beijing, Tibet, India and now Taiwan, where she writes, translates and dreams about swimming lazily in an octopus’ garden.
TEMPLE TREASURES
There are over 12,000 official temples in Taiwan The majority of these are Taoist, followed by Buddhist and Confucian, plus a plethora of unofficial shrines to lesser-known deities outside the main pantheons. Taiwan’s oldest temples go back to the 17th century; its youngest are Gen Alpha. Still very much the focus of local life, temples are often pillars of spirituality, as well as community centres and showcases of traditional religious art.
Taoist vs Buddhist
Taoist temples tend to be more exuberant than Buddhist and Confucian temples, from their decor to their noise level
For graceful antiquity and weathered splendour, look no further than Buddhist 1 Longshan Temple in Lukang.
Crawl your way through the caverns of Keelung’s 2 Fairy Cave Temple to find free-form shrines, sculpted Buddhas and a plethora of cave and literary art.
Admire high swallowtail eaves and masterful carvings amid birdsong at the 3 Penghu Tianhou Temple, one of Taiwan’s oldest temples.
Look for the devil in the details at Taipei’s 4 Bao’an Temple, a showcase of traditional design and rites that won a Unesco heritage award.
Calculate your (mis)deeds and read the most famous words ever written on a temple plaque at Tainan’s formidable 5 City God Temple.
TO MARKET, TO MARKET
Taiwan’s markets are as numerous as they are varied, bringing happy crowds by combining varied dining and shopping with the thrill of a treasure hunt. Adding to this is that markets – be they traditional fruit markets, handicraft bazaars or organic farmers’ markets – are down-to-earth spaces operated by ordinary people and, as such, offer a fascinating glimpse into local life and habits. In many cases where these were fading, they’re being revived by creative and community-minded Taiwanese.
Night Market Days
Many night markets outside of Taipei are only open some nights of the week. Double-check before you go.
Rub elbows with locals and hunt for treasures real and figurative at Kaohsiung’s wonderful 1 Neiwei Flea Market
Combine late-night feasting at Keelung’s 2 Miaokou Night Market with a wee-hour tuna auction and coffee cocktails at its neighbouring wholesale fish market
Browse handicrafts and sip fusion cocktails as you learn how Kaohsiung’s young have transformed the historic 3 Yancheng First Public Market into a cultural and retail space.
Graze your way through 4 Chiayi East Market while dodging scooters and watching out for Japanese-era market architecture.
Binge on freshly plucked shrimp and dewy sashimi at absurdly affordable prices at Donggang’s sprawling 5 Huaqiao Fish Market.
HAPPY HIKING
Taiwan is 50% forests and the urban jungle gives way to the real thing surprisingly quickly Two-thirds of the country is also mountainous with hundreds of peaks over 3000m and wellestablished trails everywhere. After hiking, shake off your boots to soak in crystal-clear streams or dive into deep blue pools. Then repeat all over the island.
Permits
You need permits to hike mountains over 3000m, but the online application process is tedious You can avoid the bureaucracy by joining a guided tour.
