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Lonely Planet Cancún Cozumel the Yucatán 10th Edition Lonely Planet
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This Book
CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
On my first trips to the Yucatán, I eagerly ticked off the blockbuster sites –hiking through jungle-fringed Maya ruins and snorkeling over reefs along the Caribbean coast. On later journeys, I slowed things down a notch and realized just how much I’d been missing on my rush across the peninsula: the bumpy rides past little-visited temples along the Ruta Puuc, the hilltop climbs in Chiapas offering astonishing views of forest-covered mountains, and unhurried boat journeys past flamingos on the wing near Río Lagartos.
More than places though, it’s the people who captivate me the most in the Yucatán. On a recent trip, I spent a few days in Celestún, where I met ecotourism pioneers – former fishers turned environmentalists, fighting to preserve the landscape they love so dearly. Hearing about their two-decade
reforestation project filled me with hope, and reminded me that the best days for the Yucatán may still be yet to come.
Regis St Louis
@regisstlouis
Regis writes about culture, food, travel and adventure in Mexico, and has contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles.
My favorite experience is indulging in a Yucatecan (and vegetarian) feast of papadzules then walking it off in Mérida’s Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, which is packed with architectural treasures.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán
The Maya ruin of Calakmul is so big that it is visible by airplane, and climbing to the top of its structures gives you a thrilling 360 degree view of virgin jungle all around It’s a wonderful reminder that there are still wild places left in this world – precious, unspoiled, and beautiful. Come here to commune with spider monkeys and marvel at mysteries we still have yet to solve.
Ray Bartlett @kaisoradotcom
Ray Bartlett is a travel writer, photographer, and novelist.
Cozumel’s underwater environs (pictured) are appealing across the board but, on this particular trip, I was determined to see a splendid toadfish. These rare creatures are mostly confined to Cozumel’s reefs and are known for their vibrant yellow fins, zebrastriped heads and whiskered chins. I would like to thank my excellent dive guide Pedro for pointing out not just one, but five toadfish, on a whirlwind drift dive through El Cedral Pass – I will remember it as long as I live.
Ashley Harrell
@where smashley went
Ashley is a California-based freelance journalist who writes about travel and the outdoors. She’s co-authored more than 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks across the Americas, Southeast Asia and Africa, and has often chosen assignments based on where she can go scuba diving.
CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Nellie Huang @wildjunket
Nellie is a book author, adventurous mom and experienced travel writer obsessed with Mexico, her adopted home
Maya Ruins
The Yucatán Peninsula boasts some of the best-preserved and most remarkable ruins in Mexico. Here you can stroll beneath temples perched atop sea cliffs, or cycle along forested paths to stonework slowly being swallowed by the jungle. There are famous pyramids that attract visitors both day and night (when sound and light shows bring the past to life) and little-visited ruins that you can have all to yourself, plus a few climbable temples affording magnificent views.
Don’t immediately dismiss craft-sellers, many of whom have Maya ancestry. Some are skilled artisans who make their own works and support their families on their sales
Wherever you go, including Chichén Itzá (pictured), you’ll find smaller crowds if you visit at opening time or at the end of the day when the tour buses have all departed.
Cooling Off
Many ruins have cenotes nearby. These can be great places for a dip, so bring your swimsuit and a towel.
Head to the hilly Puuc region for a wander past the soaring pyramid and exquisite temples of Uxmal 1.
Listen to the sounds of wildlife surrounding Palenque 2 while walking through the steamy rainforest-covered hills past towering ruins.
Spend a day admiring Chichén Itzá 3, one of the ‘ new seven wonders of the world’, then return at night to see the site under starry skies.
Hop on a bike and pedal your way past the massive ruins of Cobá 4, including the tallest pyramid in Quintana Roo.
Marvel at the headquarters of the once mighty Snake Kingdom in Calakmul 5, atmospherically set in a jungle-clad biosphere reserve.
Underwater Exploring
The turquoise waters of the Caribbean set the stage for stellar diving all along the eastern shores of the Yucatán Divers and snorkelers have some tough choices to make given the bewildering number of sites dotting the world’s second-largest reef system, known as the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. Surprisingly, there are also great underwater adventures to be had inland as well. Deep cave systems in some cenotes feature sparklingly clear water, which makes for otherworldly exploration.
Ditching Sunscreen
Read up on the regulations before you go diving or snorkeling. Some places do not allow the use of sunscreen so bring a longsleeved rash shirt.
Spend your days taking in the colorful coral reefs near Isla Cozumel 1, one of the world’s top diving destinations
Enjoy the variety of settings off Isla Mujeres 2, home to snorkeler-friendly shallow reefs, shark caves and an underwater sculpture museum
Go inland from Tulum for a dive in the astonishing subterranean world of Cenote Dos Ojos 3.
Don your mask and follow a naturalist guide into the marine sanctuary off Akumal 4, where you can spot sea turtles in action.
Look for sunken ships and American crocodiles at Banco Chinchorro 5, the largest coral atoll in the Western Hemisphere.
Architectural Treasures
Even if you don’t consider yourself much of an architecture buff, the historic cities in this corner of Mexico will likely leave you impressed with their intricately designed churches, imposing fortresses and lively plazas with old-world charm. Founded centuries ago, these photogenic places also harbor museums, art galleries and restaurants dishing up regional cuisine.
Food Markets
A good add-on to an architecturally themed walk is a visit to a food market – fascinating places to tap into a city’s energy.
In Mérida (pictured), Valladolid and San Cristóbal de las Casas, you’ll find free walking tours, which give a good overview of each city’s history and its most important buildings
Weekends
Try timing your visit for a weekend, when historic centers are at their liveliest and you might catch live music, street food and craft markets.
Stroll the grand boulevard of Merida’s Paseo de Montejo 1, dotted with mansions transformed into boutiques and house museums
Let your swashbuckling fantasies run wild as you visit fortresses once used to fend off pirate attacks in Campeche City 2.
Roam the cobbled streets of San Cristóbal de las Casas 3 in the Chiapas highlands, stopping off at colorful open-air markets
See both Maya and European architecture on a walk along the shop- and gallery-lined street of Calzada de los Frailes 4 in Valladolid.
Search for Maya stone-work while walking beneath the arcades of the 16th-century Convento de San Antonio de Padua 5.
Remote Getaways
The Yucatán Peninsula is famous for its well-loved Caribbean beaches, but you’ll also find idyllic getaways set amid little-visited forests and coastlines. You’ll have to work a little harder to get to these off-the-beaten-path locales, but the rewards are many – from full immersion in nature to memorable opportunities taking part in small-scale community tourism.
