I first visited Vietnam in 1991, when seeing a motorbike in Saigon or Hanoi was quite a rare sight and most people were pedalling their way around by cycle or getting around on foot. They were almost silent cities after dark. Today the energy and pace of these metropolises is astonishing, with a tide of two wheelers filling the streets and quiet corners can be challenging to find. So when out exploring I have a hit list of cafes, often on leafy side streets, where I can recharge with the uniquely Vietnamese caffeine and sugar kick that is ca phe sua da (drip coffee with condensed milk). Then I can decompress and reflect for a while before revving up for the next urban adventure: perhaps searching for the perfect banh mi (Vietnamese-style stuffed baguette).
Iain Stewart @iaintravel
My favourite experience is gazing over fishers’ coracles and oceanic rollers towards the Cham Islands from the shoreline on gorgeous An Bang beach, with a Huda beer for company.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Vietnam
I’ve lived in Hanoi for years, but for me the Old Quarter never gets old. It’s the medley of contrasts that keeps things infinitely interesting. New money collides with traditional values, storied heritage architecture surrounds, and tourists are everywhere. And yet the neighbourhood never sold its soul to tourism. I love gazing at St Joseph’s Cathedral (pictured), perched on the porous border between Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter, while swigging a glass of iced lemon tea
What screams Vietnam better than being in the midst of its jungle?
Phong Nha-Ke Bang (pictured) is a mysterious world that captivates anyone who ventures into its verdant realm Covered in thick forest, carved by crystal blue rivers and riddled with deep caverns, the national park is a splendour to behold, with intriguing layers of history, culture and infinite potential.
Diana Truong @andsoigo
Diana is a Vietnamese-American who has lived in Vietnam since 2015. She is a copywriter and the owner of a dog hotel.
Most Vietnamese don’t live in big cities; they live close to the land and water That’s why I love Can Tho It’s the largest city in the Mekong Delta but drive 30 minutes from the city centre and you’ll
find people trading goods at the floating market (pictured), taking their kids to school by canoe, harvesting cacao (yes, Vietnam produces chocolate!), and working the emerald rice fields. This to me is the real Vietnam.
James Pham
@fly icarus fly
James is a writer, editor and photographer based in Ho Chi Minh City
The Temples of Angkor in Cambodia need no introduction, but what surprises many visitors is just how many spectacular temples there are As well as Angor Wat (pictured), there are dozens of Alister temples that would be top billing anywhere. Siem Reap is the perfect place to unwind with a superb selection of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops and galleries – it’s very much a destination in itself.
Nick Ray @lpnickray
Nick Ray has written numerous editions of the Cambodia guidebook for Lonely Planet and works as a location scout and producer for TV and film.
Framed and bisected by meandering waterways, the Mekong Delta is largely flat, but I love getting higher atop Nui Sam (Sam Mountain; pictured) near Chau Doc Hillside pathways negotiate winding routes to colourful temples, some coursing right through Nui Sam’s rocky cliffs. From the mountain’s higher elevations there are sublime cross-border views across the rice fields to Cambodia, or down onto the languid flow and gentle curves of the Bassac and Mekong Rivers
Brett Atkinson @travelwriternz
Brett is a travel, food and beer writer, exploring Vietnam for three decades.
Vietnam is such a special place – one that takes years to scratch the surface enough to appreciate its culture, language and hospitality. The best way to start to get to know it is with a glass of cà phê sưa đá (pictured) in a cozy cafe with a street view.
Katie is a travel and food journalist and copywriter wandering the globe.
DREAM BEACHES
Vietnam’s extraordinary coastline is defined by beautiful beaches along most of its 3400km length. You’re completely spoiled for choice with surf-washed shores, idyllic coves, hidden bays and a roster of impressive city beaches in Nha Trang and Quy Nhon. Islands including Con Dao are blessed with lovely sands too.
Seasons
During the winter (late October to February) seas are usually too rough for enjoyable swimming in Northern Vietnam and temperatures are cool. Head south during these months.
Unfortunately, trash is a problem on many beaches and taints the tropical vision. In cities, clean-up patrols tidy things up and collect flotsam and jetsam
Watching the sun rise at glorious An Bang Beach 1, east of Hoi An, with the lights of Danang to the north and Cham Islands on the horizon.
Enjoying the evening scene at the lovely cove of Bai Xep 2, where local women cook up fresh seafood on the sand.
Marvelling at the fascinating coastline around Bai Da Nhay 3 where craggy rock formations emerge from the shore and sea.
Chilling by the shore on the stunning beach of Bai Dam Trau 4 on Con Son Island, the largest of the Con Dao archipelago’s 15 islands.
Scootering around the remote bays of northern Phu Quoc Island 5, seeking powder-white sands and seashells
NOODLE NATION
There’s a seemingly endless array of noodle dishes in Vietnam, from steaming, broth-rich northern classics like pho to spicy Southern creations. Noodles come in many forms; some of the most common are rice noodles (bun), glass noodles (mien) and thick rice flour and tapioca (or wheat) noodles called banh canh. Yellow egg noodles (mi) also feature, while Haiphong is famous for its red banh da noodles served with crab.
North
Here the influence from China is obvious, with soy sauce dominant and hotpots in evidence everywhere. Around Ninh Binh they favour one made with goat meat
