I’ve spent 20 years wandering around the world, but no matter how long I’m away or how far I travel, somehow I always end up shipwrecked back where I started – in Cornwall, my home county. I know the southwest better than anywhere else on the planet, but I still find surprises every time I walk out of my door. That’s the beauty of this place: there always seems to be another cliff to walk, an unknown cove to climb down to, a new tidal pool to paddle in or pub in which to sink a pint. Whether it’s walking Dartmoor’s tors, cycling on Exmoor, watching the waves over Mount’s Bay or getting
completely lost on Scilly, it’s a land of endless adventure. And though everyone reckons summer’s the best time, it’s winter I prefer: when the winds whip up, the fog rolls in and the sea gets restless, that’s when you get a glimpse of the region’s granite soul.
Oliver Berry @olivertomberry
My favourite experience is walking the wild stretch of coast from Botallack to Zennor. It doesn’t get more epic than this: mine stacks, monuments, coves, cliffs, caves, and a cracking pub to end the day.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our second writer and expert chooses the place that, for them, defines Devon & Cornwall
At first glance, there is a harshness to Dartmoor’s landscapes that some might think hard to love. But there’s something about these wide, windswept moors –such as Combestone Tor (pictured) – with their scrub grass shorn to stubble by
free-roaming sheep. There is wild beauty, and a whispered promise of adventure: you feel it amid the tangles of shivering purple heather and in the soft silence of the moss-carpeted woodlands I’ve travelled the globe, but that untamed land still thrills me like nowhere else
Emily Luxton
@em
luxton
Emily is a writer and travel blogger focusing on solo female travel and adventure
COAST & COVES
Hidden coves, wooded inlets, sandy harbours, epic bays: the southwest has a beach to suit all moods. Around the coastline of Devon and Cornwall, you’ll find everything from busy, bucket-and-spade resorts to secret spots known only to a chosen few. Some are easy to reach; others take time, dedication and a hike along the coast path (with a decent map in hand) to discover. Just don’t forget to pack the fins and snorkel.
Safe Swimming
The official lifeguard season runs from May to September, but only larger, busier beaches are guarded. Swim between the flags and beware of rip tides.
Many beaches can only be reached via the South West Coast Path, a stunning circuit of the entire Devon and Cornwall coastline: the views are worth every step
Check the weather before choosing your beach: sometimes, when it’s blowing a hoolie on the north coast, there might not be a breath of wind in the south.
BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES
Walk for golden miles along Gwithian and Godrevy Towans 1 from the Hayle Estuary to Godrevy Lighthouse. Grassy dunes, rock pools, surf, seals and more
Hike down the steep cliffside to the Lizard’s loveliest beach, Kynance Cove 2 Look out for choughs on the surrounding cliffs.
Escape the outside world altogether on Hell Bay 3, Bryher’s most magnificent beach.
Catch the sea tractor across Bantham Beach 4 to Burgh Island and its landmark art deco hotel.
Wander through the dunes at Saunton Sands 5 and nearby Braunton Burrows, a nature reserve with the UK’s biggest sand piles.
HISTORY LESSONS
From clifftop fortresses to soaring cathedrals, Devon and Cornwall are heaven for history buffs. This corner of Britain has been inhabited since pre-Christian times, and you’ll have the opportunity to experience every era as you explore: Neolithic, Bronze Age, Roman, Viking, medieval, Georgian, Victorian and more.
Heritage Organisations
Membership of English Heritage comes in very handy here: you’ll get free admission to many sites. Overseas visitors can buy a nineor 16-day pass.
If you ’ re a fan of stone circles, you’ll find scores of them here, mostly dotted around Dartmoor, Bodmin Moor and Penwith.
BEST HISTORY EXPERIENCES
Cross the tidal causeway to St Michael’s Mount 1, Cornwall’s dramatic island abbey and the star of a million postcards.
Climb the tower of Exeter Cathedral 2, which was built by the Normans, for incredible panoramic city views.
Brave the gravity-defying new bridge and explore the cliffs at Tintagel Castle 3, King Arthur’s fabled birthplace.
Time-travel into Britain’s prehistoric past at Chysauster 4, one of the country’s best-preserved Iron Age villages
Visit the former home of swashbuckling Sir Francis Drake at Buckland Abbey 5, then head out along Drake’s Trail.
PARTY ON
County shows, food fairs, music festivals, pagan parties: Devon and Cornwall definitely know how to let their hair down. No matter what time of year you visit, chances are there’ll be a lively festival or event where you can party like a local.
County Shows
Devon and Cornwall both host their own summer county shows, showcasing the best local food and drink, top producers and, of course, a parade of prize-winning animals.
Join the party at Padstow’s May Day 1, a raucous knees-up that’s said to date back to pagan times.
Put on your best pirate voice and and belt out a tune at the Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival 2.
See ships of all shapes and sizes during the Dartmouth Royal Regatta 3, one of the southwest’s biggest sailing celebrations.
Watch crews from around the world compete at the World Pilot Gig Championships 4 on St Mary’s in the Isles of Scilly.
Look to the skies during the British Fireworks Championships 5, which light up Plymouth for two nights in mid-August.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
With miles and miles of unspoiled coast and countryside, getting out and about in the great outdoors is guaranteed to be a highlight of your trip in the southwest. Surf, SUP, cycle, climb, hike or forage for wild food – the choice of outdoor adventures is endless. If you fancy trying a few different outdoor experiences, look out for one of the region’s many multi-activity centres.
