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Lonely Planet Texas 6th Edition Lonely Planet

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TEXAS

Contents PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

Texas Map

Our Picks Regions & Cities

Itineraries When to Go Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors THE GUIDE

AUSTIN

Downtown Austin

Campus District & Central Austin

South Austin

East Austin

North Austin

Clarksville & West Austin

SAN ANTONIO & THE HILL COUNTRY

San Antonio

Beyond San Antonio

The Hill Country

DALLAS & THE PANHANDLE PLAINS

Dallas

Beyond Dallas

Forth Worth

Beyond Fort Worth

Abilene

San Angelo

Beyond San Angelo

Lubbock

Beyond Lubbock

Amarillo

Beyond Amarillo

HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS

Houston

Beyond Houston

Beaumont

Beyond Beaumont

Nacogdoches

Beyond Nacogdoches

GULF COAST & SOUTH TEXAS

Galveston

Beyond Galveston

Corpus Christi

Beyond Corpus Christi

South Padre Island

Beyond South Padre Island

Brownsville

Beyond Brownsville

BIG BEND & WEST TEXAS

Big Bend National Park & Terlingua

Beyond Big Bend & Terlingua

Marfa

Beyond Marfa

El Paso

Beyond El Paso

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodations

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

Outdoor Safety

Nuts & Bolts

STORYBOOK

A History of Texas in 15 Places

Meet the Texans

Six (Or More?) Flags Over Texas

Cowboys & King's Men

Texas Barbecue

This Book

TEXAS

THE

JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Texas is epic in so many ways, but for me, it’s the small moments that leave their mark. It’s dangling my feet in the Medina River, watching the lateafternoon sun turn the water into glitter. It’s lounging underneath a centuryold live oak tree in a park. It’s biking across the Congress Avenue Bridge after dark, the warm summer air whipping through my hair. It’s the ocotillo in bloom in the desert, the smell of mesquite in the Hill Country, the bruisecolored sky right before a thunderstorm. It’s every perfect taco, every swim at Barton Springs Pool, every sunrise at Padre Island National Seashore, every night that ends with two-stepping at the White Horse Saloon, every float on the Frio River. Together, these small moments make up a rich tapestry that I carry with me everywhere I go.

Frio River, Garner State Park | RICHARD MCMILLIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Justine Harrington @ justinelee

Justine is a writer covering travel, hospitality and culture, based in Austin, Texas.

My favourite experience is road-tripping through West Texas. Nothing makes my soul ache – in a good way – like driving the River Road from Terlingua along the Rio Grande.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Texas.

The Greater Houston area is the very soul of Texas. Oil money and cowboy stereotypes define outsiders’ view of the state, but there’s a culinary and cultural diversity that locals know and love. Houston is a microcosm of what makes the Lone Star shine.

Stephen Lioy

@Slioy

Stephen is a writer and photographer.

STEPHEN LIOY/LONELY PLANET ©

In the Fort Worth Stockyards, there’s more than a twinge of the Old West, with old-school restaurants, rustic country bars with packed dance floors and authentic western wear stores that have been around for decades.

Regis St Louis

JOHN

The author of over 100 travel guides, Regis spends time dreaming up wilderness adventures in West Texas.

JOHANNES GUERREIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Downtown Austin during festival season is when the city truly comes alive. Whether it’s spring for SXSW or fall for ACL, every corner echoes with music and you meet all kinds of weird and wonderful souls.

James is a travel writer who moved to Austin via London, Tokyo and New York City.

BARBECUE, TEX-MEX & MORE

Most people picture smoked meat and homemade tortillas when they envision traditional Texan cuisine. It’s true that barbecue, TexMex and Mexican food reign supreme in the Lone Star State, but the vast geography of Texas invites even more culinary diversity. The state has six distinctive major metropolises, and in places like Houston, Dallas and Austin, you ’ re just as likely to encounter Mediterranean fusion, high-end soul food and contemporary Vietnamese as you are tacos and pit-blackened beef.

Texas’ Unofficial Barbecue Capital Lockhart has some of the state’s best barbecue joints. Kreuz Market has been turning out top-notch smoked meat since 1900

Beef brisket | UNIVERSITY OF COLLEGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Classic Tex-Mex

Beloved Tex-Mex dishes include cheese enchiladas, nachos, queso, breakfast tacos, barbacoa (a tender, seasoned meat dish typically served shredded) and chili con carne.

OKSANA MIZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Global Gastronomy

Texas’ major cities are brimming with international cuisine; Houston is the epicenter of the state’s multicultural food scene.

BEST FOODIE EXPERIENCES

ANDREI IAKHNIUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sample the melt-in-your-mouth smoked meats from La Barbecue, 1 some of the best in the state, in Austin.

Follow the crowd to the small dining room at Taqueria Ultimo Taco 2 in Brownsville for top-notch tacos, flautas, tostadas and beans.

Go full fusion in Houston at Crawfish & Noodles, 3 which pairs Vietnamese seafood with Cajun flavors

Eat Tex-Mex for every meal of the day at AllGood Cafe 4 in Dallas, with breakfast, lunch specials and live music.

Make your way through the 10-course tasting menu at Mixtli 5 in San Antonio, a bucket-list Mexican restaurant

THE ULTIMATE ROAD TRIP

STATE

Texas is big – and we mean big – and the only way to appreciate its size is to hit the road and discover what’s in those wide-open spaces The cities have tons to offer, but Texas’ small towns have friendly locals, historic buildings, quirky claims to fame and an easygoing way of life.

On the Road

The largest state in the Lower 48, Texas has the most roads of anywhere in the US, with nearly 700,000 lane miles.

Stop at Buc-ee’s

Whooping crane, Gulf Coast | RICHARD SEELEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

For a true Texas road trip experience, fuel up on kolaches and jerky from the iconic convenience store chain Buc-ee’s.

BEST ROAD TRIP EXPERIENCES

Wind along the Rio Grande on the River Road (FM-170) 1 through rugged mountains and canyons in Big Bend country.

Stop at Dinosaur Valley State Park 2 south of Dallas to see dinosaur footprints, caves and canyons.

Hit Houston’s highlights and drive into the past 3 through Nacogdoches (Texas’ oldest town) and Jefferson.

Cruise the Gulf Coast 4 to spot whooping cranes, party on the beach and live Texas history.

Dance halls, pristine rivers and homespun art await you on a Hill Country 5 road trip.

TEXAS HISTORY

The diverse lands that now form the Lone Star State have long been a political hotbed Six sovereign flags have flown over Texas, and it was an independent country before joining the US. These legends loom large and mix fact with fiction, perhaps not surprising in a state where the history is as iconic as it is actual.

Texas State Capitol

The rotunda, which has a 60ft diameter, features portraits of every person who has served as president of the Republic of Texas or governor.

Texas

Independence Trail

This route stretches more than 200 miles from San Antonio to Galveston and goes by historic sites that played a role in the birth of the republic

NAGEL PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK © SCULPTOR: GEORGE LUNDEEN

Six Flags

Since early European exploration of the region, six governments have claimed control of Texas: Spain, France, Mexico, the Republic of Texas, the Confederate States and the United States.

BEST TEXAS HISTORY EXPERIENCES

Head to the Alamo, 1 a Texas rite of passage, but check out San Antonio’s other colonial missions too.

Visit the San Jacinto Battleground State Historic Site, 2 the site of the final skirmish of the Texas Revolution.

See where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed in Washington-on-the-Brazos. 3

Witness history at Palo Alto Battlefield, 4 the site of the first fight in the Mexican–American War in 1846.

Stop by West Columbia 5 to learn about Charlie Brown, the formerly enslaved person who became the largest landowner in Brazoria County.

THE BORDERLANDS

Texas and Mexico are forever intertwined. Texas was once part of Mexico, and they now share 1254 miles of common border and are joined by 28 international bridges and border crossings. Their relationship extends far beyond geography and puts on display the beautiful mix of culture, cooking and music. From ranching to breakfast tacos and Tejano music, many of the Lone Star State’s most cherished traditions are rooted in Hispanic heritage

For more than 1000 winding miles, the Rio Grande serves as the international boundary between Mexico and the United States.

Big Bend National Park | FRANKSHIRLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The Mighty Rio

Border Tribes

At least seven indigenous tribes and their homelands were divided by the establishment of the US–Mexico international border, including the Yaqui, Apache and Kickapoo.

LINDA MOON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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