Contents 9 I S BN
9 7 4 -8 21 2-6 4 -5
Ab out Phuket
A Traveler’s G uide : Phuket First Edition : A pril 2 0 0 2 A ll rights to tex t and images reserved. E D I T ORI AL
AN D
- Bangkok-Phuket highway map, 1 6 - Phuket map, 1 8
PROD U CT I ON
Writer: Kuson A eam-A roon Editor: Sudara Suchaya Editorial Staff: Sirisak Koomraksa, A nurat W atanawongsawang Designer: W antanee Charoenvanich Photography: V ijitt Heng, Pravej Tantraphirom Illustrations: Jiamjitr Kwamsuk Computer Graphics: Muanmit Sriponetong Maps: Muanmit Sriponetong, N athinee Sangsuk Color Separation: Surasak Teskajorn Proofreader: N ualchan Srikaew Production Manager: Tana W asiksiri Administrative Office: Peeranat Boonkrong, Chatchai N gamthin, Jirandorn Rajmontri Plate: N R FILM Tel: 6 6 -2 2 1 5 -7 5 5 9 Printed at: Krungthep (Bangkok) Printing (1 9 9 8 ) Tel: 6 6 -2 6 4 2 -7 2 7 2 E N G L I S H
H istorical M ilestones, 1 0
L AN G U AG E
21 T rav el Routes S irinart N ational Park, 2 2
- Hat Saikaew, 2 4 - Hat Maikhao, 3 4 - Hat N aiyang, 3 6 - Hat N aiton, 4 0 I sland T our on W heels, 4 2 Old b uildings: A Reflection on Phuket/ Penang historic Relations, 5 2
- Sino-Portuguese architecture, 5 4 - D utch A rt, 5 8
E D I T ORI AL
- English A rt, 5 9
Editor: O m Maenchaad Translator: W iriya Sungkhaniyom, O m Maenchaad
- G reco-Roman A rt, 6 0 - Phuket City map, 6 4
Pub lished and distrib uted b y S arakadee Press
Managing Director: Suvaporn Thongtiew Managing Editor: Suwat A savachaichan Art Director/Production: Jamnong Srinual Marketing Director/Advertising: Patima N oochaiya Marketing Manager: Pichet Yimthin Distribution: V iriyah Business Co., Ltd. for Sarakadee Press 2 8 -3 0 Parinayok Road, Ban Panthom, Phra N akhon, Bangkok 1 0 2 0 0 Tel: 6 6 -2 2 8 1 -6 1 1 0 , 6 6 -2 2 8 1 -6 2 4 0 -2 Fax : 6 6 -2 2 8 2 -7 0 0 3 N ational lib rary cataloguing-in-p ub lication
Kuson A eam-A roon Phuket - First Edition - Bangkok, Sarakadee, 2 0 0 2 1 3 2 pages: illustrations, maps 1 .Thailand—geography and tourism 2 . Phuket—geography and tourism I. Kuson A eam-A roon II. Title 9 1 5 .9 3 8 6
4
ISBN 9 7 4 -8 2 1 2 -6 4 -5
Phuket
- Life and A rt on the Four Streets, 6 6 K hao Phra T aew
N on-hunting
Z one, 8 4
- W ildlife Conservation Station at Khao Phra Taew, 8 6 - A round Ton Sai W aterfall, 8 8 - From Ton Sai to Bang Pae waterfall, 9 2
9 9 T rav eler’s T ip s - Clean and safe budget lodgings, 1 0 0 - Useful telephone numbers, 1 0 5 - Ex panded Phuket Town Map, 1 0 6 - Eating out in Phuket, 1 0 8 - Island souvenirs, 1 1 4 - Travel Information, 1 1 8 - Index , 1 2 4 - References and N otes, 1 2 6
Contents
5
Contents 9 I S BN
9 7 4 -8 21 2-6 4 -5
Ab out Phuket
A Traveler’s G uide : Phuket First Edition : A pril 2 0 0 2 A ll rights to tex t and images reserved. E D I T ORI AL
AN D
- Bangkok-Phuket highway map, 1 6 - Phuket map, 1 8
PROD U CT I ON
Writer: Kuson A eam-A roon Editor: Sudara Suchaya Editorial Staff: Sirisak Koomraksa, A nurat W atanawongsawang Designer: W antanee Charoenvanich Photography: V ijitt Heng, Pravej Tantraphirom Illustrations: Jiamjitr Kwamsuk Computer Graphics: Muanmit Sriponetong Maps: Muanmit Sriponetong, N athinee Sangsuk Color Separation: Surasak Teskajorn Proofreader: N ualchan Srikaew Production Manager: Tana W asiksiri Administrative Office: Peeranat Boonkrong, Chatchai N gamthin, Jirandorn Rajmontri Plate: N R FILM Tel: 6 6 -2 2 1 5 -7 5 5 9 Printed at: Krungthep (Bangkok) Printing (1 9 9 8 ) Tel: 6 6 -2 6 4 2 -7 2 7 2 E N G L I S H
H istorical M ilestones, 1 0
L AN G U AG E
21 T rav el Routes S irinart N ational Park, 2 2
- Hat Saikaew, 2 4 - Hat Maikhao, 3 4 - Hat N aiyang, 3 6 - Hat N aiton, 4 0 I sland T our on W heels, 4 2 Old b uildings: A Reflection on Phuket/ Penang historic Relations, 5 2
- Sino-Portuguese architecture, 5 4 - D utch A rt, 5 8
E D I T ORI AL
- English A rt, 5 9
Editor: O m Maenchaad Translator: W iriya Sungkhaniyom, O m Maenchaad
- G reco-Roman A rt, 6 0 - Phuket City map, 6 4
Pub lished and distrib uted b y S arakadee Press
Managing Director: Suvaporn Thongtiew Managing Editor: Suwat A savachaichan Art Director/Production: Jamnong Srinual Marketing Director/Advertising: Patima N oochaiya Marketing Manager: Pichet Yimthin Distribution: V iriyah Business Co., Ltd. for Sarakadee Press 2 8 -3 0 Parinayok Road, Ban Panthom, Phra N akhon, Bangkok 1 0 2 0 0 Tel: 6 6 -2 2 8 1 -6 1 1 0 , 6 6 -2 2 8 1 -6 2 4 0 -2 Fax : 6 6 -2 2 8 2 -7 0 0 3 N ational lib rary cataloguing-in-p ub lication
Kuson A eam-A roon Phuket - First Edition - Bangkok, Sarakadee, 2 0 0 2 1 3 2 pages: illustrations, maps 1 .Thailand—geography and tourism 2 . Phuket—geography and tourism I. Kuson A eam-A roon II. Title 9 1 5 .9 3 8 6
4
ISBN 9 7 4 -8 2 1 2 -6 4 -5
Phuket
- Life and A rt on the Four Streets, 6 6 K hao Phra T aew
N on-hunting
Z one, 8 4
- W ildlife Conservation Station at Khao Phra Taew, 8 6 - A round Ton Sai W aterfall, 8 8 - From Ton Sai to Bang Pae waterfall, 9 2
9 9 T rav eler’s T ip s - Clean and safe budget lodgings, 1 0 0 - Useful telephone numbers, 1 0 5 - Ex panded Phuket Town Map, 1 0 6 - Eating out in Phuket, 1 0 8 - Island souvenirs, 1 1 4 - Travel Information, 1 1 8 - Index , 1 2 4 - References and N otes, 1 2 6
Contents
5
H i s t o r i c a l Mi l e s t o n e s
A
rchaeological findings show that Phuket was home to prehistoric human settlements. Remains of polished and roughstone ax es unearthed on the island are among the proofs. Much evidence, however, was destroyed during the mining boom, making it impossible now to patch together a history of Phuket settlements. However, the island’s location at the junction of trade routes linking the hemispheres and the natural harbors along its coastline make it easy to surmise that Phuket was a rest stop for sailors and sea merchants of old. This theory is supported by mentions in many travelers’ diaries of an island called Chang Ceylon or Thalang, which were the names given to the island at various times. Below are historical milestones that are relevant to the development of what is now Phuket, starting during the A yutthaya Era, when the city of the same name was the capital of the kingdom.
1 5 1 1
1 6 4 1
-Taken by the Portuguese, the Port of Malacca begins its ascent to become the trade hub of Southeast A sia
-The D utch wrest control of Malacca from the Portuguese
1 6 6 7 -Popular uprising in Thalang drives the D utch off the island
Santiago Gate at the Portuguese Fort A’ Famosa in Malacca
1 5 8 3 -Portuguese merchants open a tin trading company in Thalang
1 6 8 6
1 7 6 7 -A yutthaya’s Fall to the Burmese marks the end of the kingdom
Christ’s Church on Dutch Square
-Briton Captain Francis Light sets up a trading station at Ban Tha Rua, starting a close friendship with the G overnor of Thalang
King Rama I
1 6 2 6 -The D utch take control of Java, forcing King Songdharma to sign a pact ceding monopoly of the tin trade in Thalang to D utch merchants
1O
Phuket
1 7 8 2 Smelted tin ore from Ayutthaya period
-Khunying Chan and Khunying Muk lead townspeople to victory against the Burmese in The First Battle of Thalang. The noblewomen were subseq uently given the titles of Thao Thep Krasatri and Thao Sri Sunthorn
-King Rama I’s accession to the Throne marks the begin of the Ratanakosin (Bangkok) era.
-The British take Singapore, which under British rule would become a major port
Singapore, a port town and main trading center in the Far East of the 19th Century
1 8 2 5
-Britain granted lease over Penang; Francis Light made G overnor of the island Francis Light that under his stewardship would become a major trading center and the blueprint for Phuket’s town planners
-Siam (Thailand) signs the Burney Treaty with the British, marking the beginning of direct trade with the ports of Penang, Malacca and Singapore. The mining boom starts with the immigration of Chinese miners
-Thalang becomes a ghost town after its fall to the Burmese in the Second Battle of Thalang
1 8 5 3 -Phuket elevated to peer status with Thalang
1 8 5 5
1 7 8 6
1 8 0 9
1 7 7 2
-King N arai grants the French a monopoly of Thalang tin trade, later to be revoked by his successor King Bhetraja
1 7 8 5
-Large numbers of Chinese fleeing the Q ’ing D ynasty’s oppressive rule settle in Kathu and later in Thung Ka -Siam signs the Bowring Treaty with Britain. The mining trade booms with the economy as European merchants flock to Penang and Singapore to buy tin
1 8 3 9 -Briton Peter D urant’s invention of tin-coated metal alloy ushered in the era of high global demand for tin. Tin-rich Phuket would grow to eclipse Thalang.
Sir John Bowring
1 8 6 1 -Phuket made a vassal to Bangkok, with Thalang in turn becoming its serf. The government imposes a flat tax for the entire town.
1 8 2 4 -King Rama III orders a new town built at Ban Tha Rua. D iscovery of tin ore at Ban Ket Ho (now Kathu) and Ban Thung Ka (now A mphoe Muang Phuket). Later settlement of what is now Phuket would follow the tin belt; the new town becomes vassal to Thalang The Town Pillar at Ban Tha Rua
Epitaphs for the dead of the Kathu Angyi rebels in Tong Yong Su shrine
Sluice box mining
Before 1 8 5 3 -Tin mining consists of panning for ores in rivers and streams, using little manpower and simple instruments. The town’s governor runs sluice box and pegmatite mines
1 8 6 7 -Chinese miners fighting over water rights, organiz ed into bands called “A ng Yi.” The subseq uent rebellion is stamped out in a government crackdown.
Time line
11
H i s t o r i c a l Mi l e s t o n e s
A
rchaeological findings show that Phuket was home to prehistoric human settlements. Remains of polished and roughstone ax es unearthed on the island are among the proofs. Much evidence, however, was destroyed during the mining boom, making it impossible now to patch together a history of Phuket settlements. However, the island’s location at the junction of trade routes linking the hemispheres and the natural harbors along its coastline make it easy to surmise that Phuket was a rest stop for sailors and sea merchants of old. This theory is supported by mentions in many travelers’ diaries of an island called Chang Ceylon or Thalang, which were the names given to the island at various times. Below are historical milestones that are relevant to the development of what is now Phuket, starting during the A yutthaya Era, when the city of the same name was the capital of the kingdom.
1 5 1 1
1 6 4 1
-Taken by the Portuguese, the Port of Malacca begins its ascent to become the trade hub of Southeast A sia
-The D utch wrest control of Malacca from the Portuguese
1 6 6 7 -Popular uprising in Thalang drives the D utch off the island
Santiago Gate at the Portuguese Fort A’ Famosa in Malacca
1 5 8 3 -Portuguese merchants open a tin trading company in Thalang
1 6 8 6
1 7 6 7 -A yutthaya’s Fall to the Burmese marks the end of the kingdom
Christ’s Church on Dutch Square
-Briton Captain Francis Light sets up a trading station at Ban Tha Rua, starting a close friendship with the G overnor of Thalang
King Rama I
1 6 2 6 -The D utch take control of Java, forcing King Songdharma to sign a pact ceding monopoly of the tin trade in Thalang to D utch merchants
1O
Phuket
1 7 8 2 Smelted tin ore from Ayutthaya period
-Khunying Chan and Khunying Muk lead townspeople to victory against the Burmese in The First Battle of Thalang. The noblewomen were subseq uently given the titles of Thao Thep Krasatri and Thao Sri Sunthorn
-King Rama I’s accession to the Throne marks the begin of the Ratanakosin (Bangkok) era.
-The British take Singapore, which under British rule would become a major port
Singapore, a port town and main trading center in the Far East of the 19th Century
1 8 2 5
-Britain granted lease over Penang; Francis Light made G overnor of the island Francis Light that under his stewardship would become a major trading center and the blueprint for Phuket’s town planners
-Siam (Thailand) signs the Burney Treaty with the British, marking the beginning of direct trade with the ports of Penang, Malacca and Singapore. The mining boom starts with the immigration of Chinese miners
-Thalang becomes a ghost town after its fall to the Burmese in the Second Battle of Thalang
1 8 5 3 -Phuket elevated to peer status with Thalang
1 8 5 5
1 7 8 6
1 8 0 9
1 7 7 2
-King N arai grants the French a monopoly of Thalang tin trade, later to be revoked by his successor King Bhetraja
1 7 8 5
-Large numbers of Chinese fleeing the Q ’ing D ynasty’s oppressive rule settle in Kathu and later in Thung Ka -Siam signs the Bowring Treaty with Britain. The mining trade booms with the economy as European merchants flock to Penang and Singapore to buy tin
1 8 3 9 -Briton Peter D urant’s invention of tin-coated metal alloy ushered in the era of high global demand for tin. Tin-rich Phuket would grow to eclipse Thalang.
Sir John Bowring
1 8 6 1 -Phuket made a vassal to Bangkok, with Thalang in turn becoming its serf. The government imposes a flat tax for the entire town.
1 8 2 4 -King Rama III orders a new town built at Ban Tha Rua. D iscovery of tin ore at Ban Ket Ho (now Kathu) and Ban Thung Ka (now A mphoe Muang Phuket). Later settlement of what is now Phuket would follow the tin belt; the new town becomes vassal to Thalang The Town Pillar at Ban Tha Rua
Epitaphs for the dead of the Kathu Angyi rebels in Tong Yong Su shrine
Sluice box mining
Before 1 8 5 3 -Tin mining consists of panning for ores in rivers and streams, using little manpower and simple instruments. The town’s governor runs sluice box and pegmatite mines
1 8 6 7 -Chinese miners fighting over water rights, organiz ed into bands called “A ng Yi.” The subseq uent rebellion is stamped out in a government crackdown.
Time line
11
P. 16 P. 17
4
41
401
Symbols
Amphoe (District)
Changwat (Province)
National Borders
Bangkok-Phuket Highway
National Highway
Highway Map: Bangkok-Phuket
P. 16 P. 17
4
41
401
Symbols
Amphoe (District)
Changwat (Province)
National Borders
Bangkok-Phuket Highway
National Highway
Highway Map: Bangkok-Phuket
P. 18 P. 19
402
4027
Symbols
Sirinart National Parkland
City of Phuket
Airport
Mountain (khao)
National Highway
Amphoe Boundaries
Amphoe (District)
Map of Phuket
P. 18 P. 19
402
4027
Symbols
Sirinart National Parkland
City of Phuket
Airport
Mountain (khao)
National Highway
Amphoe Boundaries
Amphoe (District)
Map of Phuket
S i r i n a r t N a t i o n a l Pa r k
F o r e s t a n d S e a o f “ P h u k e t P e o p l e”
A
marine national park, 7 6 % of Sirinart’s 2 2 ,0 0 0 acres is covered by water. The park’s sea area stretches 5 km from the 1 3 -km-long coastline of white powdery sand. The beach area sprawls north to south from Sai Kaew beach to Mai Khao, N ai Yang and N ai Ton. The park’s land geography is made up of flat plains dotted with high hills and mountains. In the southern part of the park rise two mountains, Khao Muang and Khao Sai Kru, both covered with evergreen forests. Beach and mangrove forests are the other two forest types found within the park’s boundaries. The marine part of the park features two large fringing reefs that provide a habitat for a large array of life. Mai Khao beach in the N orthern section is the only place in Phuket where sea cicadas are found. Mai Khao is also the laying ground for sea turtles including the green sea turtles and leatherbacks, whose numbers have been on the wane. Its off-the-beaten track location and marine geography has kept Sirinart’s natural surroundings pristine — a haven for those interested in ex ploring the environment that has influenced the life of island natives.
Sai Kaew beach is steep and windy because it faces the Andaman Sea directly
Nai Ton beach is nestled in a valley harbor
● The local saying “Eight months of rains, four months of sunshine” neatly sums up Phuket’s weather. The island is subject to eight months of storms, starting with the Southwestern depression from A pril through September, by the N ortheastern depression in O ctober and N ovember. ● Sirinart N ational Park was formerly called N a i Ya n g N a tional Park. In 1 9 9 0 the Royal Forestry D epartment annex ed the Crown Property land in Chatchai Landing in A mphoe Thalang. A s a result the park now stretches across three sections of Thalang, namely Tambon Choeng Talay, Tambon Saku and Tambon Mai Khao.
Mai Khao, the longest beach on the island, is the Nai Yang, the most beautiful beach located inside the park, is its major tourist attraction
22
Phuket
last nesting ground for sea turtles.
S irinart N ational Park
23
S i r i n a r t N a t i o n a l Pa r k
F o r e s t a n d S e a o f “ P h u k e t P e o p l e”
A
marine national park, 7 6 % of Sirinart’s 2 2 ,0 0 0 acres is covered by water. The park’s sea area stretches 5 km from the 1 3 -km-long coastline of white powdery sand. The beach area sprawls north to south from Sai Kaew beach to Mai Khao, N ai Yang and N ai Ton. The park’s land geography is made up of flat plains dotted with high hills and mountains. In the southern part of the park rise two mountains, Khao Muang and Khao Sai Kru, both covered with evergreen forests. Beach and mangrove forests are the other two forest types found within the park’s boundaries. The marine part of the park features two large fringing reefs that provide a habitat for a large array of life. Mai Khao beach in the N orthern section is the only place in Phuket where sea cicadas are found. Mai Khao is also the laying ground for sea turtles including the green sea turtles and leatherbacks, whose numbers have been on the wane. Its off-the-beaten track location and marine geography has kept Sirinart’s natural surroundings pristine — a haven for those interested in ex ploring the environment that has influenced the life of island natives.
Sai Kaew beach is steep and windy because it faces the Andaman Sea directly
Nai Ton beach is nestled in a valley harbor
● The local saying “Eight months of rains, four months of sunshine” neatly sums up Phuket’s weather. The island is subject to eight months of storms, starting with the Southwestern depression from A pril through September, by the N ortheastern depression in O ctober and N ovember. ● Sirinart N ational Park was formerly called N a i Ya n g N a tional Park. In 1 9 9 0 the Royal Forestry D epartment annex ed the Crown Property land in Chatchai Landing in A mphoe Thalang. A s a result the park now stretches across three sections of Thalang, namely Tambon Choeng Talay, Tambon Saku and Tambon Mai Khao.
Mai Khao, the longest beach on the island, is the Nai Yang, the most beautiful beach located inside the park, is its major tourist attraction
22
Phuket
last nesting ground for sea turtles.
S irinart N ational Park
23
C o r al Re e f: Un d e r w a t e r D e l i g h t
A chart of fringing reef ecosystems
B
sea surface sea level
5 m
e
g ed ef re
eneath the az ure-blue sea off Phuket lies an underwater world waiting to be expl ored. Many Beach visitors are drawn here by the myriad marine life that make their High tide Ebb tide home around the coral reefs just reef flat off the island’s shore. The fascinating structures Sea level-up called coral reefs are basically protective to 6 m depths limestone shells built by tiny organisms called 4 -8 m depths coral. The majority of reefs found in Thai waters are fringing reefs that flourish along mainland coasts and island shorelines. Phuket boasts 8 -2 0 m depths spectacular reefs along its west and south shore and around its satellite islets. Four forms of fringing reefs: Reef flat: this type of reef sticks up out of the sea at low tide. Commonly found in branching or clustered formations. W idth ranges from 20- 30 m to over 1 km Reef edge: A cts as buffer against strong currents. G reat numbers and varieties are found. It can grow as big as 4- 5 m wide from bottom ridge to reef slope. Common shapes include branch-like, barrel and plate-like. Reef slope: The top half is made up of branching reefs while the bottom is mostly webby in form. In the bay area south of Phuket reef slopes average 60- 90 degrees while slopes at the mid point of the west coast average 45- 60 degrees.
1 0 m
lo
s ef re pe
1 5 m
fore reef grows in cluster at the edge of a deep plunge
Dive spots in Sirinart Marine National Park snorkeling scuba diving
Ko W aeo
Diving in Phuket The A ndaman Sea positively teems with marine life of all shapes and forms. Phuket, nicknamed “Pearl of the A ndaman” features several ex cellent dive spots off the major beaches—Patong, Kata, Karon and N ai Yang—and around the satellite islands of He, D ok Mai, Racha Yai and Racha N oi. But diving is ex pensive in Phuket, especially scuba diving which req uires ex pensive gear. Some dive shops charge in dollars and other foreign currency. Boat rental is also ex pensive. Most dive tour operators are ex patriates and charging the same for local and foreign tourists. For more information on dive tours, call the Phuket office of the Tourism A uthority of Thailand (TA T).
38
Phuket
Fore reef: This type of reef exi sts in sand slopes at the edge of a deep plunge. Branching coral, gorgonian fans and sea anemone are the most common life forms. Clusters of coral can also be found outside the reefs. The type of coral varies from site to site depending on the depth and environmental conditions at each. From Park headqu arters on N ai Yang beach, a good dive spot lies 70- 1,0 metres off the coast, at the depths of 4- 7 meters. A ll the common reef formations are found here, making this a good spot for scuba diving and snorkeling. If you come expe cting an abundance of fish life, though, you may be disappointed: there aren’t many of them here.
● Contact:
TA T Phuket O ffice Tel: 6 6 -7 6 2 1 2 2 1 3 , 6 6 -7 6 2 1 1 0 3 6
Sirinart National Park
39
2 0 m
C o r al Re e f: Un d e r w a t e r D e l i g h t
A chart of fringing reef ecosystems
B
sea surface sea level
5 m
e
g ed ef re
eneath the az ure-blue sea off Phuket lies an underwater world waiting to be expl ored. Many Beach visitors are drawn here by the myriad marine life that make their High tide Ebb tide home around the coral reefs just reef flat off the island’s shore. The fascinating structures Sea level-up called coral reefs are basically protective to 6 m depths limestone shells built by tiny organisms called 4 -8 m depths coral. The majority of reefs found in Thai waters are fringing reefs that flourish along mainland coasts and island shorelines. Phuket boasts 8 -2 0 m depths spectacular reefs along its west and south shore and around its satellite islets. Four forms of fringing reefs: Reef flat: this type of reef sticks up out of the sea at low tide. Commonly found in branching or clustered formations. W idth ranges from 20- 30 m to over 1 km Reef edge: A cts as buffer against strong currents. G reat numbers and varieties are found. It can grow as big as 4- 5 m wide from bottom ridge to reef slope. Common shapes include branch-like, barrel and plate-like. Reef slope: The top half is made up of branching reefs while the bottom is mostly webby in form. In the bay area south of Phuket reef slopes average 60- 90 degrees while slopes at the mid point of the west coast average 45- 60 degrees.
1 0 m
lo
s ef re pe
1 5 m
fore reef grows in cluster at the edge of a deep plunge
Dive spots in Sirinart Marine National Park snorkeling scuba diving
Ko W aeo
Diving in Phuket The A ndaman Sea positively teems with marine life of all shapes and forms. Phuket, nicknamed “Pearl of the A ndaman” features several ex cellent dive spots off the major beaches—Patong, Kata, Karon and N ai Yang—and around the satellite islands of He, D ok Mai, Racha Yai and Racha N oi. But diving is ex pensive in Phuket, especially scuba diving which req uires ex pensive gear. Some dive shops charge in dollars and other foreign currency. Boat rental is also ex pensive. Most dive tour operators are ex patriates and charging the same for local and foreign tourists. For more information on dive tours, call the Phuket office of the Tourism A uthority of Thailand (TA T).
38
Phuket
Fore reef: This type of reef exi sts in sand slopes at the edge of a deep plunge. Branching coral, gorgonian fans and sea anemone are the most common life forms. Clusters of coral can also be found outside the reefs. The type of coral varies from site to site depending on the depth and environmental conditions at each. From Park headqu arters on N ai Yang beach, a good dive spot lies 70- 1,0 metres off the coast, at the depths of 4- 7 meters. A ll the common reef formations are found here, making this a good spot for scuba diving and snorkeling. If you come expe cting an abundance of fish life, though, you may be disappointed: there aren’t many of them here.
● Contact:
TA T Phuket O ffice Tel: 6 6 -7 6 2 1 2 2 1 3 , 6 6 -7 6 2 1 1 0 3 6
Sirinart National Park
39
2 0 m
P a t o n g : P a t t a y a’ s T w in S ister Patong is arguably the most beautiful — and most crowded — beach on the island. O ver the 2 km stretch one can fulfill every physical Patong at night throbs and spiritual need imaginable. Mosq ues, with life, especially in the Buddhist temples, a full range of lodgings “Little Patpong” lane, Soi Bangla. from slum dwellings to first-class hotels, retail establishments from streetside stands to upscale shopping complex — all have their place here. A ll types of businesses, above board and otherwise, have sprung up to serve the tourist trade, including establishments specializ ing in live sex shows to which only foreigners are admitted. This is the way Pattaya has gone. The beach resort on the East coast that once ranked among the world’s top has succumbed to the ills of noholds-barred tourism — and tourists choose to stay away. The Patong of today seems to ignore the lesson, racing on as it is on the route Pattaya has traveled.
Like any other gold mine, this one has a slum tucked behind modern buildings and shops.
Patong is the only stop for a large cruise liner that brings thousands of passengers in for a shopping spree which sees close to a hundred million baht change hands every day.
F rom its discovery in 1 9 7 1 by backpackers in search of pristine nature, Patong has grown into one of the world’s most popular resorts.
A caravan of Northeastern street vendors are among those who come here in search of gold.
Muslim mosques and cemeteries sit unmoved through the area’s rapid growth.
The incoming waves of tourists provide ample motivation for villagers to turn their fishing craft into sightseeing boats — a much more lucrative enterprise.
Most businesses on Patong are run by foreigners and for foreigners, a fact that has prompted calls for a “Thai” space on this golden beach.
The seaside mountains and sandy beaches on a quiet bay are a powerful magnet for people from all corners of the world.
Tourist dollars fuel Patong’s breakneck growth that has earned it a special administrative status equal to Pattaya.
5O
Phuket
I sland T our on W heels
51
P a t o n g : P a t t a y a’ s T w in S ister Patong is arguably the most beautiful — and most crowded — beach on the island. O ver the 2 km stretch one can fulfill every physical Patong at night throbs and spiritual need imaginable. Mosq ues, with life, especially in the Buddhist temples, a full range of lodgings “Little Patpong” lane, Soi Bangla. from slum dwellings to first-class hotels, retail establishments from streetside stands to upscale shopping complex — all have their place here. A ll types of businesses, above board and otherwise, have sprung up to serve the tourist trade, including establishments specializ ing in live sex shows to which only foreigners are admitted. This is the way Pattaya has gone. The beach resort on the East coast that once ranked among the world’s top has succumbed to the ills of noholds-barred tourism — and tourists choose to stay away. The Patong of today seems to ignore the lesson, racing on as it is on the route Pattaya has traveled.
Like any other gold mine, this one has a slum tucked behind modern buildings and shops.
Patong is the only stop for a large cruise liner that brings thousands of passengers in for a shopping spree which sees close to a hundred million baht change hands every day.
F rom its discovery in 1 9 7 1 by backpackers in search of pristine nature, Patong has grown into one of the world’s most popular resorts.
A caravan of Northeastern street vendors are among those who come here in search of gold.
Muslim mosques and cemeteries sit unmoved through the area’s rapid growth.
The incoming waves of tourists provide ample motivation for villagers to turn their fishing craft into sightseeing boats — a much more lucrative enterprise.
Most businesses on Patong are run by foreigners and for foreigners, a fact that has prompted calls for a “Thai” space on this golden beach.
The seaside mountains and sandy beaches on a quiet bay are a powerful magnet for people from all corners of the world.
Tourist dollars fuel Patong’s breakneck growth that has earned it a special administrative status equal to Pattaya.
5O
Phuket
I sland T our on W heels
51
Old Buildings: A Reflection of Phuhas a long history of trading and P huket other relations with Penang, a major port
The fashion of the Baba of Penang influenced the trend in Phuket.
on the W est Coast of the Malay Peninsula that flourished on a course set by its British colonial rulers. Phuket folks, led by businessmen, adopted many of Penang’s ore advanced ways — housing styles, furniture, even its craftsmen. The Sino-Portuguese detached houses called “ang mo lau” in local dialect and the rowhouses or “tiem chu” have their origins in Malacca, a port where merchant marine fleets from as far as India, A rabia and China whiled away their time waiting for
the wind to change. Malacca was successively coloniz ed by the Portuguese, the D utch and the British, all of whom left their stamp on the town’s architecture. Buildings, warehouses and homes reflect a uniq ue The mining boom drew droves of overseas blend of different colonial influand Baba Chinese to Phuket ences modified to suit local tastes. This style of architecture is called the “Baba” or Straits Chinese in honor of its creators. W hen the Baba of Malacca migrated to other Southeast A sian cities, most of them to Penang and Singapore, they took their uniq ue architecture with them and made it popular in their new hometowns. The Baba architecture is broadly called “colonial” or “N eoclassical style.” A lso known by a more narrow term “Sino-Portuguese,” these buildings are characteriz ed by a series of arches on the faç ade that create a covered passageway or arcade (ngo ka ki), A steam ship ferried passenger between Phuket and Penang in 2 4 hours.
52
Phuket
ket-Penang’s Centuries-old Relations and by the use of G reco-Roman ornamentation that had earlier ex perienced a revival in many European countries. Phuket architecture of the period as a conseq uence reflects the influence of those countries in addition to the Portuguese, the D utch and the English, who had colonies throughout the region. Most of the old buildings still standing today were built during the reigns of King Rama V , Rama V I Rama V II. The first generation of these buildings were built in the early Rama V years (late 1 9 th Century) and were strongly influenced by Chinese architecture. They are one- to two-storeys high, simple in form with minimal decoration. The second generation, dating Ships traveled up Klong Bang Y ai canal to from the late offload their cargo right on the front door years of Rama V ’s of warehouses and shops. reign to the early years of Rama V I, shows some W estern characteristics, most notably the use of classical ornamental motifs — G reek columns on the faç ade, arch floorlength windows and decorative fresco over door and window frames. Third-generation architecture, which dates to the early years of King Rama V II (1 9 2 0 ’s), replaces the ornamental faç ade with balconies on the upper storeys and a covered walkway on the lower floor. Fourth-generation architecture, built during the late Rama V II years (late 1 9 2 0 s-early 1 9 3 0 ’s), put the frescoes and glass ornaments back on the faç ade of buildings, and added railings to conceal the roof slope.
Along with mining technology, the Europeans are credited with introducing their styles of architecture to the island. Picture shows a scene at the launch of the world’s first dredger in Thung Ka Bay, 1 9 0 7 .
The Kian Nguan Company building and the Limpanond family home on Y aowarat Road typify the late period of Phuket architecture which used balcony railings to conceal the roof line.
Old Buildings
53
Old Buildings: A Reflection of Phuhas a long history of trading and P huket other relations with Penang, a major port
The fashion of the Baba of Penang influenced the trend in Phuket.
on the W est Coast of the Malay Peninsula that flourished on a course set by its British colonial rulers. Phuket folks, led by businessmen, adopted many of Penang’s ore advanced ways — housing styles, furniture, even its craftsmen. The Sino-Portuguese detached houses called “ang mo lau” in local dialect and the rowhouses or “tiem chu” have their origins in Malacca, a port where merchant marine fleets from as far as India, A rabia and China whiled away their time waiting for
the wind to change. Malacca was successively coloniz ed by the Portuguese, the D utch and the British, all of whom left their stamp on the town’s architecture. Buildings, warehouses and homes reflect a uniq ue The mining boom drew droves of overseas blend of different colonial influand Baba Chinese to Phuket ences modified to suit local tastes. This style of architecture is called the “Baba” or Straits Chinese in honor of its creators. W hen the Baba of Malacca migrated to other Southeast A sian cities, most of them to Penang and Singapore, they took their uniq ue architecture with them and made it popular in their new hometowns. The Baba architecture is broadly called “colonial” or “N eoclassical style.” A lso known by a more narrow term “Sino-Portuguese,” these buildings are characteriz ed by a series of arches on the faç ade that create a covered passageway or arcade (ngo ka ki), A steam ship ferried passenger between Phuket and Penang in 2 4 hours.
52
Phuket
ket-Penang’s Centuries-old Relations and by the use of G reco-Roman ornamentation that had earlier ex perienced a revival in many European countries. Phuket architecture of the period as a conseq uence reflects the influence of those countries in addition to the Portuguese, the D utch and the English, who had colonies throughout the region. Most of the old buildings still standing today were built during the reigns of King Rama V , Rama V I Rama V II. The first generation of these buildings were built in the early Rama V years (late 1 9 th Century) and were strongly influenced by Chinese architecture. They are one- to two-storeys high, simple in form with minimal decoration. The second generation, dating Ships traveled up Klong Bang Y ai canal to from the late offload their cargo right on the front door years of Rama V ’s of warehouses and shops. reign to the early years of Rama V I, shows some W estern characteristics, most notably the use of classical ornamental motifs — G reek columns on the faç ade, arch floorlength windows and decorative fresco over door and window frames. Third-generation architecture, which dates to the early years of King Rama V II (1 9 2 0 ’s), replaces the ornamental faç ade with balconies on the upper storeys and a covered walkway on the lower floor. Fourth-generation architecture, built during the late Rama V II years (late 1 9 2 0 s-early 1 9 3 0 ’s), put the frescoes and glass ornaments back on the faç ade of buildings, and added railings to conceal the roof slope.
Along with mining technology, the Europeans are credited with introducing their styles of architecture to the island. Picture shows a scene at the launch of the world’s first dredger in Thung Ka Bay, 1 9 0 7 .
The Kian Nguan Company building and the Limpanond family home on Y aowarat Road typify the late period of Phuket architecture which used balcony railings to conceal the roof line.
Old Buildings
53
S i n o - P o r t u g u e s e Le g a c y the Portuguese took Malacca, the Chinese made up the first B efore waves of immigrants to that port town. They married local Malay women and gave birth to generations of mixed race sons (baba) and daughters (yaya). The younger generations later moved to other towns on the Straits of Malacca, becoming known as Straits Chinese. The arrival of Portuguese traders and colonial rulers, from 1511-1641, led to marriages between the two groups and their arts. Evidence of the latter is the European-style row house introduced by the Portuguese and executed by Chinese workers who decorated them with frescoes that reflect Chinese beliefs. This style of architecture is known as Sino-Portuguese, even though the Dutch and the British, who succeeded the Portuguese as colonial rulers, also contributed to its evolvement.
A typical front entrance features doors carved in foliage motifs and inlaid with oval mirrors, one of the eight Chinese goodluck symbols. Above the door hangs a sign bearing the owner’s family name or the name of their hometown, flanked by windows and vents carved with Chinese motifs.
Ornamental flat arches over shuttered windows are some of the characteristics of Portuguese architecture.
Chinese good-luck signs such as clouds and the swastika are believed to bring fortune and fulfillment to the occupants of the house. Semi-commercial row houses reflect Portuguese influence.
Many of Phuket’s old buildings have been restored with newer materials, but the typical Chinese pitch roof covered with split-bamboo tiles can still be seen along Thalang Road.
G ood-luck symbols such as select Chinese characters and nature-inspired motifs are common decorative features.
54
Phuket
Old Buildings
55
S i n o - P o r t u g u e s e Le g a c y the Portuguese took Malacca, the Chinese made up the first B efore waves of immigrants to that port town. They married local Malay women and gave birth to generations of mixed race sons (baba) and daughters (yaya). The younger generations later moved to other towns on the Straits of Malacca, becoming known as Straits Chinese. The arrival of Portuguese traders and colonial rulers, from 1511-1641, led to marriages between the two groups and their arts. Evidence of the latter is the European-style row house introduced by the Portuguese and executed by Chinese workers who decorated them with frescoes that reflect Chinese beliefs. This style of architecture is known as Sino-Portuguese, even though the Dutch and the British, who succeeded the Portuguese as colonial rulers, also contributed to its evolvement.
A typical front entrance features doors carved in foliage motifs and inlaid with oval mirrors, one of the eight Chinese goodluck symbols. Above the door hangs a sign bearing the owner’s family name or the name of their hometown, flanked by windows and vents carved with Chinese motifs.
Ornamental flat arches over shuttered windows are some of the characteristics of Portuguese architecture.
Chinese good-luck signs such as clouds and the swastika are believed to bring fortune and fulfillment to the occupants of the house. Semi-commercial row houses reflect Portuguese influence.
Many of Phuket’s old buildings have been restored with newer materials, but the typical Chinese pitch roof covered with split-bamboo tiles can still be seen along Thalang Road.
G ood-luck symbols such as select Chinese characters and nature-inspired motifs are common decorative features.
54
Phuket
Old Buildings
55
7
The front room on the ground floor is partitioned with carved screens into two parts. The outer part, once an office of the family mining business, is now reception area for most visitors. I n other homes this area may be a shrine to the gods or family ancestors. The inner part was a canteen for company employees; now it houses a Buddhist altar.
L i f e in a Ro w Ho u s e Rowhouse or tiem chu to island natives is a style of housing which originated in Penang. It follows Chinese conventions in structural and space design while exterior and interior decorations feature 13 European characteristics. This 3-D rendering depicts the tiem chu at 20 Krabi Road, built by Luang Anupash Phuketkarn and his wife Lui Hun (LaOr), whose son Veerapong Hongyok now owns the house with his wife 12 Chintana. This row house was semi-residential, housing an office of the family business, but a redesign has converted it to full residential use while keeping the main structure intact. The house may have been modified to fit modern living, but the old conventions are still very much in evidence. 1 The upper-story faç ade juts out over the lower part, decorated with floor-length windows with adjustable shutters to allow the young women in the house a peek at life on the street. F rescoes on window frames and column heads show a mix of European and Chinese influence.
2 The front entrance is covered with a series of arches forming an arcade (ngo ka ki) to keep out the perennial rain. 3 Slanted roof and high ceilings keep the inside of the house cool. Earthen tiles shaped like split bamboo trunk covered the roof in overlapping pattern. 4 The room overlooking the front entrance was Luang Anupash’s bedroom. This reflects a conventional floor plan which puts the master bedroom in a key position sometimes with a peek hole in the floor to let the master of the house see whether he wanted to receive a visitor waiting at the entrance.
56
Phuket
5 Other rooms on the upper storey belong to other family members. These rooms are usually placed above the interior well (chim jae) on the ground floor, an open shaft that functions as skylight and air vent.
6 The Chinese-style entrance is flanked by windows with ornately carved vents. Above the doorframe hangs a sign communicating the owner’s family name or the name of his hometown in China to fellow Chinese.
8 The second room in the center of the house was where ores were graded and stored. I t is now a living area where the family receives close friends and relations.
1 0 Every row house has at least one interior well. The wells are usually built on the chim jae spot under the skylight to let in light, wind and rain. This not only keeps the house cool but also symboliz es an inflow of good fortune. Chim jae is usually built sunken about 1 foot into the floor.
3 5 1 1 The family dining room features a large round dining table seating more than ten people, reflecting the belief of Phuket Chinese that the family should be together at mealtime.
11
4 8
1
9 10
7
6
1 2 The kitchen is given equal space to other parts of the house, reflecting the importance given to food in the family. A rowhouse kitchen usually has its own well for washing and cleaning up.
2
9 Most interior walls have doors or other openings built into them, reflecting Chinese belief that doors should not be aligned or bad luck would befall the family.
1 3 Toilet and bathroom are given a space at the back of the house rather than outside it as dictated by convention. This area is sometimes used for storage.
Old Buildings
57
7
The front room on the ground floor is partitioned with carved screens into two parts. The outer part, once an office of the family mining business, is now reception area for most visitors. I n other homes this area may be a shrine to the gods or family ancestors. The inner part was a canteen for company employees; now it houses a Buddhist altar.
L i f e in a Ro w Ho u s e Rowhouse or tiem chu to island natives is a style of housing which originated in Penang. It follows Chinese conventions in structural and space design while exterior and interior decorations feature 13 European characteristics. This 3-D rendering depicts the tiem chu at 20 Krabi Road, built by Luang Anupash Phuketkarn and his wife Lui Hun (LaOr), whose son Veerapong Hongyok now owns the house with his wife 12 Chintana. This row house was semi-residential, housing an office of the family business, but a redesign has converted it to full residential use while keeping the main structure intact. The house may have been modified to fit modern living, but the old conventions are still very much in evidence. 1 The upper-story faç ade juts out over the lower part, decorated with floor-length windows with adjustable shutters to allow the young women in the house a peek at life on the street. F rescoes on window frames and column heads show a mix of European and Chinese influence.
2 The front entrance is covered with a series of arches forming an arcade (ngo ka ki) to keep out the perennial rain. 3 Slanted roof and high ceilings keep the inside of the house cool. Earthen tiles shaped like split bamboo trunk covered the roof in overlapping pattern. 4 The room overlooking the front entrance was Luang Anupash’s bedroom. This reflects a conventional floor plan which puts the master bedroom in a key position sometimes with a peek hole in the floor to let the master of the house see whether he wanted to receive a visitor waiting at the entrance.
56
Phuket
5 Other rooms on the upper storey belong to other family members. These rooms are usually placed above the interior well (chim jae) on the ground floor, an open shaft that functions as skylight and air vent.
6 The Chinese-style entrance is flanked by windows with ornately carved vents. Above the doorframe hangs a sign communicating the owner’s family name or the name of his hometown in China to fellow Chinese.
8 The second room in the center of the house was where ores were graded and stored. I t is now a living area where the family receives close friends and relations.
1 0 Every row house has at least one interior well. The wells are usually built on the chim jae spot under the skylight to let in light, wind and rain. This not only keeps the house cool but also symboliz es an inflow of good fortune. Chim jae is usually built sunken about 1 foot into the floor.
3 5 1 1 The family dining room features a large round dining table seating more than ten people, reflecting the belief of Phuket Chinese that the family should be together at mealtime.
11
4 8
1
9 10
7
6
1 2 The kitchen is given equal space to other parts of the house, reflecting the importance given to food in the family. A rowhouse kitchen usually has its own well for washing and cleaning up.
2
9 Most interior walls have doors or other openings built into them, reflecting Chinese belief that doors should not be aligned or bad luck would befall the family.
1 3 Toilet and bathroom are given a space at the back of the house rather than outside it as dictated by convention. This area is sometimes used for storage.
Old Buildings
57
C l a s s i c a l El e m e n ts art is as much a part of Phuket architecture as N eo-classical Portuguese, Dutch and British influences. The European revival of Greco-Roman arts was transported to Phuket and the rest of Southeast Asia by colonists. Neo-classical or renaissance styles are characterized by equilateral gables and arch windows supported by Greek columns in one of three styles: Doric (simple and unadorned), Ionic (decorated with scroll volutes) and Corinthian (ornate carved leafs on the capital).
The G reco-Roman gable was rediscovered during the Neo-classic period. I n architecture, the design is employed both as a structural feature and as pure ornament.
Classical Greek column heads
U pper-storey faรง ades are intricately decorated with arch windows flanked by G reek columns in one of three styles or a combination of them.
6O
Phuket
D oric
I onic
Corinthian
G reek columns in Phuket architecture.
Old Buildings
61
C l a s s i c a l El e m e n ts art is as much a part of Phuket architecture as N eo-classical Portuguese, Dutch and British influences. The European revival of Greco-Roman arts was transported to Phuket and the rest of Southeast Asia by colonists. Neo-classical or renaissance styles are characterized by equilateral gables and arch windows supported by Greek columns in one of three styles: Doric (simple and unadorned), Ionic (decorated with scroll volutes) and Corinthian (ornate carved leafs on the capital).
The G reco-Roman gable was rediscovered during the Neo-classic period. I n architecture, the design is employed both as a structural feature and as pure ornament.
Classical Greek column heads
U pper-storey faรง ades are intricately decorated with arch windows flanked by G reek columns in one of three styles or a combination of them.
6O
Phuket
D oric
I onic
Corinthian
G reek columns in Phuket architecture.
Old Buildings
61
D e c o r a t i v e Pa t t e r n s
62
Phuket
S t r u c t u r a l De s i g n s
Old Buildings
63
D e c o r a t i v e Pa t t e r n s
62
Phuket
S t r u c t u r a l De s i g n s
Old Buildings
63
1
T h e T a n t h a v a n i c h’ s
“ H o u s e a t M a r k e t”
2 P h r a P i t a k C h i n p r a c h a’ s M a n s i o n : A G e n t l e m e n’ s
N o. 2 0 Thalang Road, nex t door to the Hainanese shrine, stands out from other row houses thanks to a beautiful faç ade fully decorated in the Chinese style and perfect overall condition. Formerly the home of O ng Buntiem, Phra Pitak Chinpracha’s father-in-law, the house once occupied two connecting units that stretched back all the way to Phangnga Road, but the adjoining N o. 1 8 has now been sold and converted to other use. N o. 2 0 housed the office of the family foreignex change business, which specializ ed in Malaysian ringgit needed when traveling or conducting business in Penang. Phra Pitak Chinpracha lived here for a time before moving to a grand new mansion at the end of Krabi Road. Tanthavanich family members called this row house “Ban Lad” or “House at Market” after its location in the main market street.
Club This grand mansion at the end of Krabi Road belongs to the family that owns the row house at N o. 2 0 Thalang Road. Family patriarch Phra Pitak Chinpracha designed the house and personally supervised the construction, employing craftsmen and material from Penang. This ang mo lau (mansion) was built before W orld W ar II and took two years to complete. The mansion was once used as a rendez vous for the owner’s friends. This type of social club (“gong guan” in local dialect) was a W estern custom that arrived in Phuket via neighboring W estern colonies.
Half-moon Chinese signs over the windows advertise the business. This one says the company offers money transfers to the town of Z ia Men in China’s Hokkian province. The sign over the door spells out the name of the currency-ex change office “Hab Long Huat.”
2 European-style tiles from Penang adorn the mansion’s front faç ade. 1 The entrance from the left wing features outer and inner doors decorated in a Sino-European style.
I nner doors bear Chinese letters saying: “may the business prosper.” 4 The central portion features a prominent octagonal wing halfprotruding from the main structure.
4
The ground floor entrance has two sets of Chinesestyle carved doors flanked by a pair of windows.
2
The color and patterns on the tiles are still clear despite the passage of time. The outer door panels are carved with puttan flowers (Hibiscus mutabilis Linn.), a Chinese good luck sign.
7 2
Phuket
3 1
3 The ground floor ex terior features arches supported by G reek columns in the simple D oric style.
The two-storey mansion comprises of a long main section and side wings ex tending out prominently. D uring W orld W ar I I J apanese soldiers used the front yard of private houses as marching ground. The mansion’s owner reportedly had some coconut palms planted in the front lawn to keep the J apanese away.
Old Buildings
7 3
1
T h e T a n t h a v a n i c h’ s
“ H o u s e a t M a r k e t”
2 P h r a P i t a k C h i n p r a c h a’ s M a n s i o n : A G e n t l e m e n’ s
N o. 2 0 Thalang Road, nex t door to the Hainanese shrine, stands out from other row houses thanks to a beautiful faç ade fully decorated in the Chinese style and perfect overall condition. Formerly the home of O ng Buntiem, Phra Pitak Chinpracha’s father-in-law, the house once occupied two connecting units that stretched back all the way to Phangnga Road, but the adjoining N o. 1 8 has now been sold and converted to other use. N o. 2 0 housed the office of the family foreignex change business, which specializ ed in Malaysian ringgit needed when traveling or conducting business in Penang. Phra Pitak Chinpracha lived here for a time before moving to a grand new mansion at the end of Krabi Road. Tanthavanich family members called this row house “Ban Lad” or “House at Market” after its location in the main market street.
Club This grand mansion at the end of Krabi Road belongs to the family that owns the row house at N o. 2 0 Thalang Road. Family patriarch Phra Pitak Chinpracha designed the house and personally supervised the construction, employing craftsmen and material from Penang. This ang mo lau (mansion) was built before W orld W ar II and took two years to complete. The mansion was once used as a rendez vous for the owner’s friends. This type of social club (“gong guan” in local dialect) was a W estern custom that arrived in Phuket via neighboring W estern colonies.
Half-moon Chinese signs over the windows advertise the business. This one says the company offers money transfers to the town of Z ia Men in China’s Hokkian province. The sign over the door spells out the name of the currency-ex change office “Hab Long Huat.”
2 European-style tiles from Penang adorn the mansion’s front faç ade. 1 The entrance from the left wing features outer and inner doors decorated in a Sino-European style.
I nner doors bear Chinese letters saying: “may the business prosper.” 4 The central portion features a prominent octagonal wing halfprotruding from the main structure.
4
The ground floor entrance has two sets of Chinesestyle carved doors flanked by a pair of windows.
2
The color and patterns on the tiles are still clear despite the passage of time. The outer door panels are carved with puttan flowers (Hibiscus mutabilis Linn.), a Chinese good luck sign.
7 2
Phuket
3 1
3 The ground floor ex terior features arches supported by G reek columns in the simple D oric style.
The two-storey mansion comprises of a long main section and side wings ex tending out prominently. D uring W orld W ar I I J apanese soldiers used the front yard of private houses as marching ground. The mansion’s owner reportedly had some coconut palms planted in the front lawn to keep the J apanese away.
Old Buildings
7 3
Around Ton Sai Waterfall beautiful T hiswaterfall lies
amidst the tropical rainforest of Phra Taew. The staff at the Khao Phra Taew W ildlife Conservation Station has built Fig trees provide food for birds, a nature trail around humans and nocturnal creatures the waterfall to such as bats and anteaters. accommodate those who don’t have the time or the inclination to venture farther into the forest. The waterfall trail features several stops where interesting flora are found. 1 Here are the big trees that form the upper canopy of the rainforest. D ominant species include hopea, devil’s tree, and rieng or mong rieng, an endemic species that flowers in D ecember and bear fruits in February and March. 2 A round the reservoir is a cluster of fig trees that bear fruits all year long, providing food for birds and local villagers, who eat them with chili dip or rice spaghetti and curry. Tao rang (Caryota sp.) is in bloom every six month; the inflorescence shown will mature into nuts.
Visitors can explore nature along the trail on their own, thanks to signs bearing the name of species represented.
Large trees such as rieng, wild durian and agarwood grow densely in the area around the waterfall.
Ton Sai W aterfall 4 3 5
6
2 1 7
Map of Nature Trail Around Ton Sai Waterfall
V isitors Center
Epiphytic species climb up large trees in search of sunlight.
Tao rang (Caryota sp.) Ton Sai waterfall has water all year round. Each tier has a pool visitors can play in.
A species in the palm family, Tao rang is well represented in Khao Phra Taew forest. It grows in clusters near ponds and other wet areas. The trunk is similar to that of betel palm, leaves are pinnate, covered on the underpart with a powdery brown coating. Tao rang flowers only once, the flowers blooming in stages from top to base. O nce the flowering is complete, the tree dies. V illagers in the south fill home-made flint-spark sets with the brown scrapings from tao rang’s leaves mix ed with downy kapok fibres to provide fuel. Its heart, sweetish in flavor, is eaten as vegetable. Concentrated juice from its inflorescence is ex tracted to make palm sugar.
Khao Phra Taew Non-Hunting Zone
89
Around Ton Sai Waterfall beautiful T hiswaterfall lies
amidst the tropical rainforest of Phra Taew. The staff at the Khao Phra Taew W ildlife Conservation Station has built Fig trees provide food for birds, a nature trail around humans and nocturnal creatures the waterfall to such as bats and anteaters. accommodate those who don’t have the time or the inclination to venture farther into the forest. The waterfall trail features several stops where interesting flora are found. 1 Here are the big trees that form the upper canopy of the rainforest. D ominant species include hopea, devil’s tree, and rieng or mong rieng, an endemic species that flowers in D ecember and bear fruits in February and March. 2 A round the reservoir is a cluster of fig trees that bear fruits all year long, providing food for birds and local villagers, who eat them with chili dip or rice spaghetti and curry. Tao rang (Caryota sp.) is in bloom every six month; the inflorescence shown will mature into nuts.
Visitors can explore nature along the trail on their own, thanks to signs bearing the name of species represented.
Large trees such as rieng, wild durian and agarwood grow densely in the area around the waterfall.
Ton Sai W aterfall 4 3 5
6
2 1 7
Map of Nature Trail Around Ton Sai Waterfall
V isitors Center
Epiphytic species climb up large trees in search of sunlight.
Tao rang (Caryota sp.) Ton Sai waterfall has water all year round. Each tier has a pool visitors can play in.
A species in the palm family, Tao rang is well represented in Khao Phra Taew forest. It grows in clusters near ponds and other wet areas. The trunk is similar to that of betel palm, leaves are pinnate, covered on the underpart with a powdery brown coating. Tao rang flowers only once, the flowers blooming in stages from top to base. O nce the flowering is complete, the tree dies. V illagers in the south fill home-made flint-spark sets with the brown scrapings from tao rang’s leaves mix ed with downy kapok fibres to provide fuel. Its heart, sweetish in flavor, is eaten as vegetable. Concentrated juice from its inflorescence is ex tracted to make palm sugar.
Khao Phra Taew Non-Hunting Zone
89
E a t i n g Ou t in Ph u k e t is a food lover’s paradise. The meals here P huket are largely based on Chinese cuisine, which the
world regards as one of the best. Ethnic influences — especially the strong flavors of Thai and Muslim spices — make the food of Phuket stand out from other Southern cuisine. Breakfast Locals breakfast on coffee and dim sum rather than rice. There are lots of dim sum places Mee chek is Hokkian around town, mee, a noodle soup the best known with pork and shrimp. being Koo Kwan The soup base is brewed and Somfrom shrimp’s heads. chaikitti. Some prefer sweet or savory baked goods with their coffee, while many others like Muslim roti and curry. A tempting spread of dim sum Every morning the popular
breakfast places become café societies where locals debate current affairs over coffee. If you want a more filling fare, many of these places offer local favorites such as rice sphagetti, mee sua (stir-fried Ow tao is a fritter of hoi tib clams, steamed taro, dried shrimps and egg noodles), porridge and pig’s blood soup. garnished with fried pork fat and Lunch Hokkian kui chai leaf. mee is a must. For the soup version, mee chek, go to Somjit or Jirayuwat. The stir-fry at Ran Ton Pho and mee sapam at Ban Sapam vie for first place. If you want Khanom kiman to sample all the favorites, head for Khao niao tat Yan Lo Rong. There you can have buea thod (vegetable Buea thod is tempura), stir-fried mee hun served with a bowl of a vegetable broth, ow tao, loba, etc. tempura. Leafs Hungry after an afternoon walking tour? Stop of local plants by Soi Sun Uthit on Yaowarat. The food there is (ya chong, chaplu, leb krut) is fried in spiced batter sprinkled with fresh shrimp. Served with sweet sauce.
Ko sui is a flour cake eaten with grated coconut.
O aeo is a thirst-quenching jelly-like dessert served with syrup and topped with ice. The jelly-like part is made from banana mashed with o aeo seeds, which have to be imported from China.
Mee sapam is Hokkian mee stir-fried with shrimps, crabmeat, pork and clam and served hot on runny egg.
1O8
Phuket
Phuket rice spaghetti is served with a variety of curry: namya, namprik, beef or chicken curry or kaeng tai pla. Eaten with boiled egg, steamed curry fish, fried fish cake and a huge variety of vegetables.
Khanom tao or ang koo
Roti with curry or fried eggs are a favorite breakfast fare. Bang Meed’s and the roti shops near Thaew Nam intersection become café societies every morning.
Mee hun served with pork’s rib broth.
Eating Out in Phuket
1O9
E a t i n g Ou t in Ph u k e t is a food lover’s paradise. The meals here P huket are largely based on Chinese cuisine, which the
world regards as one of the best. Ethnic influences — especially the strong flavors of Thai and Muslim spices — make the food of Phuket stand out from other Southern cuisine. Breakfast Locals breakfast on coffee and dim sum rather than rice. There are lots of dim sum places Mee chek is Hokkian around town, mee, a noodle soup the best known with pork and shrimp. being Koo Kwan The soup base is brewed and Somfrom shrimp’s heads. chaikitti. Some prefer sweet or savory baked goods with their coffee, while many others like Muslim roti and curry. A tempting spread of dim sum Every morning the popular
breakfast places become café societies where locals debate current affairs over coffee. If you want a more filling fare, many of these places offer local favorites such as rice sphagetti, mee sua (stir-fried Ow tao is a fritter of hoi tib clams, steamed taro, dried shrimps and egg noodles), porridge and pig’s blood soup. garnished with fried pork fat and Lunch Hokkian kui chai leaf. mee is a must. For the soup version, mee chek, go to Somjit or Jirayuwat. The stir-fry at Ran Ton Pho and mee sapam at Ban Sapam vie for first place. If you want Khanom kiman to sample all the favorites, head for Khao niao tat Yan Lo Rong. There you can have buea thod (vegetable Buea thod is tempura), stir-fried mee hun served with a bowl of a vegetable broth, ow tao, loba, etc. tempura. Leafs Hungry after an afternoon walking tour? Stop of local plants by Soi Sun Uthit on Yaowarat. The food there is (ya chong, chaplu, leb krut) is fried in spiced batter sprinkled with fresh shrimp. Served with sweet sauce.
Ko sui is a flour cake eaten with grated coconut.
O aeo is a thirst-quenching jelly-like dessert served with syrup and topped with ice. The jelly-like part is made from banana mashed with o aeo seeds, which have to be imported from China.
Mee sapam is Hokkian mee stir-fried with shrimps, crabmeat, pork and clam and served hot on runny egg.
1O8
Phuket
Phuket rice spaghetti is served with a variety of curry: namya, namprik, beef or chicken curry or kaeng tai pla. Eaten with boiled egg, steamed curry fish, fried fish cake and a huge variety of vegetables.
Khanom tao or ang koo
Roti with curry or fried eggs are a favorite breakfast fare. Bang Meed’s and the roti shops near Thaew Nam intersection become café societies every morning.
Mee hun served with pork’s rib broth.
Eating Out in Phuket
1O9