MIGHTY DUCK EGGS all they’re cracked up to be
the city’s finest Cuban sandwich · spring greening · edging out the competition in Chesterfield s t.2012 lo u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y April
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E E , AMAGAZINE P R I L 2 012 saucemagazine.comFIRSAUCE I1
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Winners will be announced in the July issue!
READERS’ CHOICE POLL CuiSine CateGorieS
Favorite new restaurant
Favorite barbecue
My hands-down favorite restaurant
Favorite Cajun/Creole
This restaurant has been around forever and I still can’t get enough
Favorite Chinese
Chef of the year
Favorite deli/sandwiches At Restaurant
Name
Favorite Eastern European/Bosnian
I wish my house looked as good as this restaurant
Favorite English/Irish/Scottish
This brunch gives me a reason to roll out of bed
Favorite French
If I won the lottery, I’d eat here once a week
Favorite frozen desserts
Favorite cheap eats
Favorite German
Favorite restaurant to wow out-of-towners
Favorite Greek
No one rolls their eyes at my dietary needs here
Favorite Indian
The service here makes everyone feel like a VIP
Favorite Italian
I could hang out in this coffee shop all day
Favorite Japanese/sushi
This place is farm-to-fork at its best
Favorite Korean
I’ll follow this food truck all over town
Favorite Mexican
My pup begs to come here
Favorite Middle Eastern Favorite pizza
This is the most underrated restaurant in town
Favorite seafood
Best place for a party of one The best flippin’ burger in town
Favorite soul food
drinK
Favorite Spanish
Favorite South American/pan-Latin
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Name
The cocktails here are truly top-shelf Favorite brewery Favorite winery Favorite wine bar Favorite pub
At Bar/Restaurant
Favorite steakhouse Favorite Thai Favorite Vietnamese
Send your ballot to: Sauce Magazine’s Readers’ Choice Poll 1820 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, MO 63103 or online: www.saucemagazine.com/readerschoice.php
This place makes the best cup of coffee in town When I need just one more, I head here for a nightcap I drink here way too often I practically set up camp on this patio when the weather’s warm Here’s where the glitterati gathers This is sports fans’ home base This place does happy hour right
SHop
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Favorite farmers market Favorite grocery store Favorite butcher shop Favorite place to buy cheese Favorite coffee roaster Favorite local bread Favorite cakes and pastries Favorite place to buy chocolate and candies
ConteSt detailS THE RULES: Participation by print ballot or online ballot only, not both. Contact information must be completed entirely and accurately. Mailed ballots must be postmarked by the contest deadline of 5 p.m., Monday, May 14, 2012. There is no minimum number of completed categories required for a ballot to be valid. However, no single answer may be entered more than five times. Restaurants distributing blank, completed or semicompleted ballots and/ or mailing ballots for customers will be disqualified from the poll. If you find this happening, please contact Sauce Magazine at 314.772.8004, x 111; a sample will be required. Sauce Magazine reserves the right to reject ballots that appear to be submitted improperly.
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Win dinner for tWo! PRIZES: Ballots with votes in at least 25 categories will be automatically entered into a random drawing for prizes. • One grand prize winner will receive dinner for two at the 2012 Favorite New Restaurant. • Ten additional winners will receive a one year subscription to Sauce Magazine. • Winners for each prize will be selected at random. See tHe WinnerS in tHe July iSSue! SAUCY SOIRÉE — Join us Sunday, June 24, 2012 for our annual Saucy Soirée at the Four Seasons Hotel from 5 to 10 p.m. Get an advance copy of the Readers’ Choice issue and mingle with the winners. Order your tickets at
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A pril 2 012 • VO LUM E 12, Issue 4 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Contributing Editor Fact checkers PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
OFFICE MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES ACCOUNT MANAGER
Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Stacy Schultz Kylah Brown Robert Severson, Lindsay Toler Emily Lowery Rebekah Wessels Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, David Kovaluk, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Kylah Brown, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Diana Losciale, Meera Nagarajan, Shannon Parker, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Beth Styles Sharon Arnot Shana Cook Erin Anderson, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Brenda Pollom, Angie Rosenberg Jill George
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SEND A $25 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@ saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@ saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2012 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other
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use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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contents April 2012
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Reviews
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17 new and notable: EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery EdgeWild Changes the Equation by Michael Renner
21 Dine on a dime: Kabuki Sushi & Fusion Japanese Fusion Gets a Standing O by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz
23 Nightlife: Plush Impressive Space, Multiple Personalities by Matt Berkley
Home cooking
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25 What in the world: Huitlacoche by Ligaya Figueras
26 Vegetize it: Vegetarian Bulgogi Bowl by Beth Styles
28 One ingredient, 7 ways: Asparagus Spring Greening by Ligaya Figueras and Stacy Schultz
31 Cook’s books: Fish: Recipes from the Sea by Shannon Parker
Stuff to do 50 Stuff to do: Food by Byron Kerman
52 Stuff to do: Art by Byron Kerman
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features 32 The Incredible Edible Duck Egg Bigger and richer than their better-known cousins, duck eggs are all they’re cracked up to be By K ellie Hynes
38 Bay of Pigs Cuba and America’s history may be a bit complex, but their finest collaboration – the Cuban sandwich – is proof that good food is greater than the sum of its parts By J ulie Cohen
Duck eggs from Kuhs Estate & Farm: p. 32
Photo by Carmen Troesser
54 The New Classics Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium’s Salty Kisses Milkshake By Stacy Schultz
44 Acid Trip From Spain to Italy, France to Germany, we found the finest vinegars the world has to offer
the city’s finest Cuban sandwich: p. 38 spring greening: p. 28 edging out the competition in Chesterfield: p. 17
BY Ligaya Figueras
= recipe on this page
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Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, April 13 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. to hear more from our April issue.
EASTER | Wondering how you can wow the wee ones gathered around your Easter table this year? Leave the Peeps in their rightful place (on the supermarket shelf) and opt instead for homemade sweets that will bring a sugary smile to their faces – and their Easter baskets. Check out the Slideshows section of SauceMagazine.com for plenty of easy Easter recipes. BEST HOLLANDAISE EVER | Psst … hey you. Come close. We wanna let you in on a little secret: That hollandaise you’re slathering on your eggs Benedict could be better – a lot better. How? It’s all about the duck eggs. See why on page 32, then go to the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com to find the recipe for rich, silky hollandaise.
PHOTO BY carmen troesser
BALSAMIC ON A BUDGET In this month’s feature Acid Trip (page 44), we show you how to spot the mother of all vinegars – authentic, syrupy, sweet balsamic – on the supermarket shelf and offer tasty new ways to put it to use. Don’t have room in your tax return to spend triple digits on aceto balsamico tradizionale? No problem. We’ve got three tasty balsamics that won’t break the bank in the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com.
Find us on Pinterest and add your favorite Sauce recipes, dishes and drinks to your Pin boards. April 2012
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EAT THIS
The first time we tried the SPICY PORK at SEOUL TACO, it was tucked in a taco so supremely divine, we swore off ever altering our order. So when Seoul was out of tacos one day, we crossed our fingers and ordered our beloved meat sprinkled atop a gogi bowl. We had a new addiction. By the time we had become regulars of this curbside Korean ‘cue, we realized that our obsession wasn’t about how the pork was plated – it was about the meat: seasoned with a heavy hand and a fiery kick, daring us to devour its fatty little bits in mere seconds. So order it in a taco. Or a gogi bowl. Or a Photo by carmen troesser
quesadilla. We don’t care; just order it. And make sure you leave some for us. Track Seoul Taco down on Twitter @SeoulTaco
April 2012
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chef’s day off Aaron Baggett, executive chef at edgewild Restaurant & Winery
When Aaron Baggett gets a break from his chef duties in the kitchen at Chesterfield’s new EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery, he heads to O’Fallon with his fiancée, Amy Howell, for La Chata Mexican Restaurant, just off Highway K. “It’s a family-run place, and I’m a big fan of independents and the three things I get there [Queso Fundido with chorizo, carnitas and made-to-order guacamole] are consistently good. You can’t put a price on that.” For more on Baggett, check out our New and Notable review of EdgeWild on page 17.
It’s April again and that means only one thing: baseball season! Like most St. Louisans, opening day marks the beginning of my summer. So here are some canned craft beer options for your next hike, bike ride or pre-game warm-up down by the stadium. – Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales
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Goose Island 312 Urban Wheat Ale Now that this comes in cans, it’s going to be a summertime favorite. It fills the glass with a slightly hazy, light yellow hue thanks to the unfiltered yeast that smells of raw dough and breadcrumbs. A bright, subtle touch of lemon on the palate adds another layer to this very sessionable 4.2-percent ABV American pale wheat ale.
Ska Modus Hoperandi Hop-lovers can now rejoice as we start to see more and more IPAs in cans. Ska’s take on the IPA includes an orange-to-amber malt profile that is maltier than most IPAs. That biscuit-like sweetness is balanced by an assertive pine nutty, sticky, resinous, slightly honey-orange hop flavor with a nice, lingering finish.
Bitburger Premium Beer This classic Pilsner pours a light, straw yellow with a frothy, white head. A big whiff of sweet, grainy malts – followed by an earthy, herbal, noble hop character – fills the glass. The nice level of carbonation and appropriately dry finish are perfect on a warm day. This is one of my all-time favorite German Pilsners. April 2012
photo by laura miller
[beer]
When I went to Barcelona a few years ago, I couldn’t wait to eat at Inopia, the tapas bar formerly owned by Alberto Adrià (Ferran Adrià’s brother). We had already made our way through a bunch of small plates when our waitress, Mariona, suggested we try the pineapple with molasses for dessert. When she arrived at the table, she presented half of a cored pineapple that she drizzled molasses on tableside before giving it a generous sprinkling of lime zest. These days, when I can get my hands on a good pineapple, I always dress it up with a little molasses and a dusting of tangy lime zest. Tasty, easy and it always reminds me of Spain. – Meera Nagarajan
photo by carmen troesser
Wholesome Sweeteners Organic Molasses available at Local Harvest Grocery
Local Harvest Grocery 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com April 2012
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Cook’s Tip ASPARAGUS GOES RETRO
How can you cook 1 bunch of asparagus without even pulling out a pot or pan? Dust off Grandma’s old percolator – either an electric or stove top model will work. Trim a wee bit off the woody stems (about ½ inch) then fill the percolator with 1 cup of water. Set the entire bunch of asparagus inside – stems submerged, tips standing tall. Turn on the stove top or plug in your retro appliance and, within 15 minutes, you’ll have perfectly cooked asparagus, including once-tough stems that now slice tenderly with a knife. – Ligaya Figueras
For more creative ideas on cooking with asparagus, turn to page 28.
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Glenn Bardgett, Annie Gunn’s wine director and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, weighs in on which wines to drink this month. Check your favorite wine shop or liquor store for availability.
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Veramonte Ritual Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Casablanca Valley, Chile This is what happens when you combine the ownership of Agustin Huneeus (Quintessa, Napa Valley) with the star-power winemaking of Paul Hobbs. This sauvignon blanc is very classy without being overly grassy, yet very round and lush thanks to a few months in French oak. Try this world-class white for about $20.
Altos las Hormigas Colonia las Liebres Bonarda 2011 Mendoza, Argentina Grape varietal Bonarda is growing in popularity in Argentina for its chewy, fruity flavors and soft tannins. That is what makes this 2011 so easy and fun to sip. At about $10, this is certainly one of the best everyday red wine values that I’ve tasted in eons. Even a light chill will make this little beauty sing.
Yangarra Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia Even with the homogenization of Australian shiraz thanks to Yellow Tail, there are still a few overachieving gems from down under. This beauty is one of the stars of the McLaren Vale region and will happily share a table with an amazing variety of meats, cheeses or grilled seafood like salmon or tuna. This is a beautiful value at about $20 and just might remind you of the greatness of Australian reds.
April 2012
About four years ago, Steve Ewing had an idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to hand out hot dogs after his evening performances as the lead singer of The Urge? These days, you can find him at the corner of Marconi and Bischoff Avenues, selling his dogs in the daylight at Steve’s Hot Dogs on The Hill. Or in the studio recording his new album. Or picking his daughter up from school. How does he run from the kitchen to the stage and make it home in time for movie night? It’s all in a day’s work. – Interviewed by Diana Losciale, photographed by Greg Rannells
scenes from my life: Steve Ewing 1. “I’m up early. I have a 5-year-old!” After scrambling out the door with his “girls,” Ewing gets to the restaurant by 9 a.m. The grill chef has been smoking meats since 8 o’clock, and the songster swings in to take inventory, field calls and handle emails. Then he’s off.
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2. “I hit the restaurants, see people and shop.” By midmorning he’s back on his own premises, wielding conversation and locally made sausages. Vitale’s Bakery supplies the buns, while the hot dogs hail from NYC: Nathan’s Famous. 3. Sure, he does deliveries, but Ewing is more the meet-and-greet guy. “People know me or have seen the ad on TV and they want to hang out.” 4. He credited his chef, Joe Zeable, with the creation of the Smoked Italian Beef Sandwich – which takes four days to bring to plate between the marinating, smoking and grilling. “Everything we cook is done outdoors on an open-fire smoker. We smoke up the neighborhood!” 5. Ewing might eat at work or grab a bite on a delivery, but he’ll find time to pick up his daughter after school. After Hot Dog Happy Hour on Fridays, he sticks around to do the books. 6. A big fan of Bikram yoga, Ewing tries to fit in a little gym time, then it’s off to a gig. The Steve Ewing Duo with Adam Hansbrough does about 170 shows a year. When do they rehearse? “We catch up on the gig.” Dinner? Late, during music breaks. 7. Though Ewing’s favorite food stop is Banh Mi So (pictured), his family’s newest favorite is Anthonino’s Taverna. “They do Italian ‘angry.’ 8. Ewing is in the recording studio with The Urge to get the next record out by summer. Stay tuned. Have something to eat while you wait – maybe that original Smoked Italian Beef. Steve’s Hot Dogs on The Hill 2131 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.762.9899, steveshotdogsstl.com Hours: Mon. to Sat. – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (open until 4 p.m. on Fridays) April 2012
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Two Mason Jars Walk Into a Bar Cocktail revivalists have
brought the world of mixology into a new era, but for Lucas Ramsey, cutting edge means returning to an age-old tradition once reserved for country cooks: canning. Order the Anti-hero Resuscitator at Blood & Sand, the downtown members-only restaurant and lounge where Ramsey tends bar, and you’ll receive a Mason jar filled with three ounces of a preserved cocktail, a tall glass filled with ice and a small glass holding an ounce of fresh lime juice. The bartender unscrews the lid, pours the cocktail over the ice, adds the lime juice and stirs. While this drink comes together quite quickly upon ordering, preparation actually takes a week or two – and starts in the kitchen.
photos by carmen troesser
Ramsey begins by combining rum with the Italian liqueur Amaro Averna; sweet, rum-happy partner Velvet Falernum; and simple syrup. Fresh pitted cherries and ginger slices are added, then the concoction is poured into a pint-sized Mason jar, which gets capped and processed in a hot water bath. “When you heat it up, you cook the flavor in,” explained Ramsey. The jar then sits quietly on the shelf for a couple weeks to allow the flavors to meld. “The longer it sits in there, the more the flavors intermingle.” Two other trendy methods of pre-batching that are occuring around town – barrel aging April 2012
Canning slightly cooks the ingredients inside the glass jar, but it also destroys bacteria and other microorganisms that can cause spoilage.
and cocktails on tap – allow the flavors of a cocktail to meld for an extended period. So why go through the labor of canning? “I wanted to do single-serving cocktails,” explained Ramsey, who processes two dozen jars at a time using an oversized pot. Canning slightly cooks the ingredients inside the glass jar, but it also destroys bacteria and other microorganisms that can cause spoilage. That means the ingredient list for a canned cocktail can include fresh fruits and other sweet or acidic foods that would typically cause spoilage in, say, a barrel-aged cocktail. Ramsey’s drink falls within the category of a cobbler: a tall drink made by adding a sweetening agent and wine or spirits to a glass filled with crushed ice, then garnishing it with a bounty of fruit. Years ago, sugar was used as the sweetener, but these days, bartenders reach for fresh juices and fruity liqueurs. Ramsey deemed the Antihero Resuscitator a “reverse cobbler,” since the cherries age in the cocktail and, of course, fall to the bottom of the jar. Ramsey sees canning cocktails as rife with possibilities. In the weeks ahead, he plans to experiment with fresh blueberries and other seasonal fruits in combination with a slew of spirits and liqueurs to see how they react to the process. Guess we better get ready for some fine country-meets-city sipping. – Ligaya Figueras
Anti-hero Resuscitator at Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15
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reviews
new and notable: edgewild restaurant & winery p. 17 dine on a dime: kabuki sushi & fusion p. 21 nightlife: plush p. 23
EdgeWild Changes the Equation by Michael Renner • Photos by Ashley gieseking
T
o say that the perimeter of Chesterfield Mall lacks dining options is a truism. Check that: There are options, they just happen to be the least common demoninators of the restaurant equation – fast-casual chains, bland food couched in trendy lingo, a business plan designed to fill you up and turn tables. And then there’s EdgeWild, the new winery/ restaurant by Chris LaRocca and Dee Dee and Andy Kohn that changes the entire equation (and expectation) of what a restaurant near a suburban mall parking lot can aspire to. LaRocca is a visionary artist among restaurateurs; I suspect half of St. Louis has dined in a restaurant he has conceptualized. Best known for the erstwhile Crazy Fish restaurants, Tomatillo and Sage, he’s also launched Triumph, Kota Wood Fire Grill and Mile 277 Tap & Grill. In February, he opened Crushed Red in Clayton. Helming the kitchen is Aaron Baggett, whose tour of duty includes stints at both Triumph and Kota. Jason Tilford, chef at Milagro Modern Mexican, even got in on the act, consulting with LaRocca and Baggett on the menu. The resulting carte is cutely laid out in a wine theme: First Press for starters, A Little Green for salads, Full-Bodied Entrees … you get the idea. Clearly, there are a lot of top players involved here, so there’s a lot riding on this sprawling 12,000-square-foot former Bahama Breeze (speaking of least common denominators).
EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery, 550 Chesterfield Center, Chesterfield, 636.532.0550, edgewildwinery.com
Judging by the crowds, things are off to a roaring start, with two-hour waits not uncommon if you don’t have reservations. Navigating this massive space isn’t for the directionally impaired. But once inside, I found that EdgeWild had a lot to offer: a long, open kitchen; a wine and chocolate tasting bar (offering both house-made and Bissinger’s treats); two large dining rooms; a covered porch; an enclosed fire pit; a bar-dining area; and a combination barrel roomprivate dining table for large groups. April 2012
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review new and notable: edgewild restaurant & winery
From left: Bathed in an apple beurre blanc, the oven-roasted salmon gets comfy in a bed of Parmesan polenta. Crispy blue corn tortillas hug thick slices of ahi tuna, drizzled with a piquant red-curry aioli.
paper-thin, as if run through a pizza roller. A side of butternut squash risotto was slightly sweet, very creamy, perfectly chewy and well worth the caloric splurge.
creamy polenta with some roasted haricot verts scattered about. A dousing of reduced rosemary-infused jus and a sprig of the fresh herb capped this homey dish. The Vintner’s Steak, a grilled center-cut strip, arrived medium rather than the requested medium-rare but didn’t suffer much from the few extra moments on the heat. It was still juicy and tender, the dollop of garlic butter melting into the bed of garlic mashed potatoes for more rustic elegance. The comped soft chocolate chip cookie topped with Serendipity salted caramel ice cream more than made up for the goof. With dark wood and high-beamed ceilings, the space has all the elegant rusticity of a California wine country château (or so I imagine). But along with this much real estate comes decibels approaching indoor stadium levels. On one visit, the restaurant was thronged with clusters of boisterous women on a gal-pal night out. And it was the middle of the week. Another night it was masses of teens dressed in short dresses and uncomforable suits, chatting, texting, having a good time. EdgeWild is a bonded winery, so there are barrels of aging wine tucked about the restaurant. It also sells wine: 29 are available,
WHERE EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery, 550 Chesterfield Center, Chesterfield, 636.532.0550, edgewildwinery.com
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25 under the EdgeWild and Chandler Hill labels. Andy Kohn acts as wine négociant, traveling to California, Washington and Oregon, and contracting with winemakers to make and label the wines for the restaurant. Of the Missouri wines, most are sweet, including four fruit varieties. Labeling its own wine means EdgeWild can offer cheaper prices to the diner: Bottles run $24 to $44, with glasses going between $6.25 and $11.50. As is the trend of late, a lot of the menu touts comfort food gone upscale. Not only is there meatloaf, it’s made from bison and wrapped in pancetta. Two generous, juicy, savory, seared slices came atop a mound of
DON’T MISS DISHES Thai Tuna Tacos, Applewood Plank Salmon, Bison Meatloaf
Even salmon, topped with a baconshallot “hash” and oven roasted on an applewood plank, got the comfort food treatment. The fish was moist and fresh (not previously frozen. I always ask, as should you.), absorbing just a whisper of applewood flavor. It could’ve easily stood on its own, but sloshing it with apple beurre blanc and plating it with more tenderly roasted haricot verts and creamy, cheesy Parmesan polenta tied everything together nicely. Chicken paillard, a boneless breast pounded thin and mounded with fresh spinach and arugula drizzled with a startlingly delicious lemon dressing, was a salad and entree in one. While the chicken wasn’t dry, a risk with pounded meat, it was
VICE Sprawling space presents numerous dining options. Don’t forget your Garmin.
ENTREE PRICES $14 to $28
There are seven enticing salads, but even the basic house is worthy of mention: loads of mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, house-made croutons and a zippy red-grape dressing with a goat-cheese fritter on top and a thick focaccia slice on the side. It’s impressive once you realize that the kitchen makes its own lavash (cracker bread), crostini and spicysweet mustard for the charcuterie board – a lavish spread of candied walnuts, pistachios, figs, dried dates and apricots, grapes, Serrano ham and salami. (While the meats aren’t house-cured, they are from local salumerias Volpi and Salume Beddu.) The board makes for a great nosh for two paired with a salad and some wine. The Thai tuna tacos are also good for a light bite, featuring thick slices of ahi tuna seared rare and stuffed into three triangle-shaped blue corn tortillas, topped with pickled red pepper and crunchy julienned vegetables, and dressed with a redcurry aioli for edgy heat. With 357 seats to fill, you need to train a lot of servers … and keep them trained. Service was capable and eager but short in some areas, like one waiter who was quick to offer tastes of wine rather than describing them first. Or another who was unsure of the night’s specials, “That’s a good question. I missed the meeting.” Nothing has been radically reinvented at EdgeWild. But in a sea of suburban mediocrity, good cooking with just enough edge and wildness plus decent, affordable wine and an atmosphere with myriad options equals an equation worth the effort.
WHEN Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight, Sun. – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. April 2012
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review dine on a dime: Kabuki Sushi & fusion
Japanese Fusion Gets a Standing O by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz | photos by Jonathan gayman
Kabuki Sushi & Fusion 15015 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.527.7999, kabukistl.com
During the Edo period of Japanese imperial history, Kabuki was the name for the popular theater of the working class, marked by stylized movements and striking makeup. At Kabuki Sushi & Fusion, the artful food and modest prices speak to the avantgarde theater for which it was named.
April 2012
by the Spanish. Japanese immigrants applied sashimi and sushi cutting techniques to local Peruvian sea bass. Kabuki’s mildly seasoned tiradito featured masterfully sliced striped bass on a colorfully pooled interplay between bright green chive oil and delicate, citrusy yuzu sauce. The dish popped with bright orange tobiko (aka flying fish roe).
The Set A traditional sushi bar doubled as a counter for ordering gargantuan chocolate-tinis, Bud Light bottles and a few decent sakes. The subtle, modern décor was relaxing, but it’s tough to shake the feeling that you’re inside a Ballwin strip mall.
The Plot In a world that throws around the word “fusion” all too often, Kabuki’s menu exemplifies it – melding various ingredients and cooking techniques of Thailand, Japan, Vietnam, China and Peru.
Act 2: Spicy baked New Zealand mussels Equally as applauseworthy, these large mussels were sprinkled with scallions and a dollop of an evocatively spicy mayonnaise, gently baked, and finished with bright orange masago roe.
Ha: culmination of events Act 3: Sushi From the exquisite knife
Jo: introducing the audience to the characters Act 1: Tiradito The striped bass
skills displayed on the red snapper, scallop and mackerel nigiri to the artful presentation, the sushi was stunning. Some was plated atop bright green banana leaves, others perched inside tiny nests of fresh radish curls. A salmon avocado roll was beautifully marbled with a gorgeous pale orange hue, its meaty elegance wrapped in nori.
tiradito epitomized such fusion – blending the process of “cooking” fish with the acid of fruit juice and mild salt from Peru and the ceviche tradition of cubing fish introduced
Act 4: The drama Adventurous palates should try the sea urchin shooter.
Mimicking a classic ceviche shooter, this decadent shot paired sea urchin with chilled sake and a beautiful, creamy quail egg.
Act 5: The chorus Salads and soups gave stellar performances, with standouts like the beautiful Sunomono salad. Mild, approachable and cleanly dressed with light rice wine vinegar, the salad showcased Chinese cucumbers that slid down a mandoline, sliced Japanese seaweed and a bounty of assorted, steamed sea creatures. Kyu (final bow) If you’re smart, you’ll end your meal with the mochi – frozen Japanese rice dumplings filled with ice cream – and pick the sweet-savory blend of green tea and red bean. The dumplings, pale in color, were quartered and crowned with whipped cream and a sprig of basil that was refreshing and satiating to the palate.
THE TAKEAWAY: By the time the curtain fell – we mean, the check arrived – we wanted to give the whole meal a standing ovation. While it was hard to forget the strip mall setting, Kabuki’s food was beautiful to the eye, pleasing to the palate and well worth the price of a ticket. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
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review nightlife: Plush
Impressive Space, Multiple Personalities by Matt berkley • photos by David Kovaluk
to their own devices, Plush’s bartenders can mix a mean martini and a generous (and not overly sweet) Manhattan. Here’s hoping they’ll soon get their act together and put together some proper signature drinks.
Plush 3224 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.535.2686, plushstl.com
J
ettisoning any semblance of a traditional format, the team behind Midtown’s Plush has presented to the neighborhood a nexus of food, spirits and entertainment. Combination bar, diner, coffeehouse and live-music venue, this multitasking newcomer has a lot of promise. But also a great deal of confusion.
The Space: The unfortunate and inaccurate name aside (Nothing about the place is particularly plush, nor is it a trendy nightclub.), the new space – a four-level monster – is undeniably imposing. There’s a nice buzz in the air on a Friday night as the house lights dim on a well-dressed main stage and dark blue and red illumination fall over Plush’s world. As an alt-rock band works seamlessly through its first set, a mellow crowd from a variety of generations and tax brackets leans back in mismatched chairs and oddly colored couches on the ground floor. More onlookers peer down through the railing from the wraparound level above, occasionally ducking into a side room April 2012
where Plush’s staff shakes a quick cocktail and gently slides it across a gorgeous mosaic-topped bar. In the adjacent loftstyle lounge area, the cool kids hang out around a spattering of retro table and chair collections, which very well might have been stolen from someone’s grandparents’ house. Downstairs, an older crowd shuns the music, occupying the main bar and dining room – which tout an equally eclectic mixture of odd furnishings and mismatched colors. The Bar: It’s a pleasure to navigate the extensive (but not overly vast) draft and bottle menu, which represents the international as well as the local microbrew spectrum: Spaten Premium Lager ($4.75), Six Row Double IPA ($4.75), Fuller’s London Porter ($5), Moretti Lager ($4.50), even a 16-ounce Stag for $2.50. Likewise, premium bottles of vodka, gin, whiskey and an impressive showing of single malts abound. Unfortunately, there’s currently no cocktail menu to speak of (a major disappointment considering the obvious work that has gone into other aspects of the fledgling operation). Fortunately, left
The Scene: A genuine shape-shifter, Plush bends, contracts and reinvents itself nightly depending on the type of band taking the stage. Before dropping in for an evening, check out the website to see what kind of crowd will be spilling over from the music side. Expect the unexpected: Plush books every type of group, from alternative to bluegrass, hip-hop to country and various DJs in between. They’re all there to entertain well-dressed, mainly 20- and 30-something patrons who mingle about the multiple bars, now and then popping out onto an outdoor balcony to grab a smoke. Weekends usually draw in talented national and local acts for a door charge of around $8. Large, noisy crowds sometimes take over the front room on busy nights. More laid-back weeknight shows are offered without cover. The Eats: Not everyone you’ll encounter is a music fan. The restaurant, ably helmed by executive chef David Zimmerman, is enough to stand on its own. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m, and Sundays till midnight, Plush’s diner offers breakfast anytime, along with innovative small bites – Shepherd’s Pie Skins; Mini Meatloaf Cupcakes; spinach, fig and blue cheese wontons – along with salads and more substantial sandwiches, most notably a highly recommended spicy crawfish roll with apple slaw. All menu items – including bread, condiments, cheeses, sausages – are crafted in-house from scratch. The Verdict: Marred by a nonexistent cocktail menu and some blatantly awful decorating choices (i.e. the senseless cotton collage hovering over the main bar), Plush needs to work out a few bugs. And while it may be adopting too many identities to keep up with, at its core, it is an authentic and unique music house primed for some wildly late nights.
ORDER THIS: Plush
Without a proper drink menu, you’ll have to settle for the classics. But don’t worry, the capable bar staff stirs up a potent – and nonetoo-sweet – Manhattan.
The kitchen goes the extra mile to make all items from scratch. The spicy crawfish roll impresses with a big punch of flavor and sweet apple slaw.
The beer menu is extensive, packed with a slew of international and local brews. Our pick: Six Row’s Double IPA.
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what in the world: huitlacoche p. 25 vegetize it: bulgogi bowl p. 26 one ingredient, 7 ways: asparagus p. 28 cook’s books: Fish p. 31
huitlacoche? Huitlacoche, also known as corn smut, is a fungus that grows on sweet corn. Its grubby appearance – a swollen glob of soft, dirty, black flesh covered in silvery gray skin – belies the sweet, woodsy mushroom flavor that has earned this delicacy the nickname Mexican truffle. Use it: Huitlacoche is a traditional filling for Mexican eats like tamales, tacos and quesadillas. Try it on crepes and in egg dishes, including as a heavenly filling for deviled eggs. Use it as a sneaky sub for morels in pasta dishes, stuffed chicken breasts and sauteed vegetables. Find it: El Torito Supermarket, 2753 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.771.8648 – Ligaya Figueras
Quesadillas Tradicionales Courtesy of Milagro Modern Mexican’s Jason Tilford 6 Servings
photo by greg rannells
1 cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. chipotle pepper, puréed 1 tsp. crushed garlic 1 Tbsp. kosher salt Juice of 1 lime 1 tsp. freshly ground cumin 4 oz. corn masa mix* ½ cup water 1 cup shredded Chihuahua cheese ½ cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
April 2012
1 oz. huitlacoche, chopped Vegetable oil for frying • First, make the chipotlelime aioli: Place the first 6 ingredients in a bowl and whisk until well combined. Refrigerate until ready to use. • In a bowl, combine the corn masa mix and the water. Using your fingers, mix well into a dough. The dough should hold together but not be sticky. If the dough feels dry, add 1 teaspoon of water. Divide into 6 balls of equal size. • Using a tortilla press, smash the masa dough balls into discs slightly thicker than a corn tortilla. • Mix the cheeses and huitlacoche in a mixing bowl and divide into 6 portions. • Sprinkle equal portions of the cheese mixture on half of each tortilla, leaving a thin rim around the edges. • Fold the other half of each tortilla over the cheese mixture and crimp the edges with your finger or a fork, ensuring the edges are completely sealed. • In a deep-fryer, heat the oil to 325 degrees. Working in batches, deep-fry the quesadillas until golden brown and crispy, about 4 minutes. • Remove and place on a paper towel to extract excess grease. Serve with chipotle-lime aioli and/or your favorite hot sauce. * Available at El Torito Supermarket
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home cooking Vegetize it: Bulgogi bowl
Vegetarian Bulgogi Bowl BY Beth Styles • Photo Kristi Schiffman
For those of you unfamiliar with kimchee, I must warn you; it packs a bit of a punch. At its core, it’s pickled cabbage jarred with a slew of fiery spices. When you first taste it, it leaves a slightly bitter taste in your mouth. Bulgogi mellows it a bit, since the meat carries a nice sweetness. I decided to marry it with day-old rice, as the longer the rice sits after cooking, the more it dries out. This means it better absorbs all that sweet and spicy flavor, much like pressing the moisture out of tofu before you marinate it. So I guess this recipe is a great lesson in flavor: how to extract certain elements so you can inject others and, hopefully, end up with a dish that tickles your taste buds and – at least for me – expands your horizons.
Bulgogi
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have a confession to make: When I was assigned this dish to “vegetize,” I had no idea what it was. All I could deduce without any research was a) it contained meat and b) it was served in a bowl. A quick ride on the Internet brought me up to speed, and I learned that bulgogi is most commonly associated with a Korean dish typically made with thin slices of sirloin that are marinated in a flavorful fusion of soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, pepper and other add-ins. It’s traditionally grilled – and packed with spice – so you can take its translation (“fire meat”) quite literally. What substitute could possibly take on such a savory task? The easy route would’ve been to use our old friend, seitan. It holds up well to pan-frying, but I wasn’t sure I could pump enough flavor into
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it. Instead, I turned to an old nemesis, something I’ve tried time and time again to prepare in a way that makes even meatatarians drool: tofu. For me, this block of soy is like pie crust for a beginning baker – something you desperately want to make delicious but you have to put in the work to make it happen. When it turns out totally wrong, you need to get back on the horse and push through all the pain of, well, trying … over and over. I’m happy to report that this recipe helped me break through to the other side (a place I like to call “awesome”). I’ve finally unlocked the secret to tasty tofu: Get as much water out of it as possible so it can soak up all the flavor you feed it.
1 12-oz. package extra-firm tofu ½ onion, sliced thin 4 green onions, green and white parts, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced ²∕³ cup soy sauce 6 Tbsp. sesame oil, divided 6 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. honey 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. mirin ¼ cup unpeeled, shredded Asian pear 2 Tbsp. water 1 tsp. sesame seeds
Kimchee Fried Rice 1½ Tbsp. canola oil 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2½ cups day-old cooked white rice 1½ cups kimchee, chopped (with juices) 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 green onions, sliced horizontally 2½ tsp. sesame seeds 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper DAY 1 • Line a plate with 4 paper towels.
Remove the tofu from its package and place on the towel-lined plate. Cover with another 4 paper towels, and place a heavy skillet or pot on top. Let sit for 1 hour to draw out as much moisture as possible. • Discard the paper towels and slice the tofu into ¼-inch thick pieces. Layer the pieces in a small, deep dish, making sure the tofu lies flat so it won’t break. Top with the onion, green onion and garlic. Set aside. • In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, 4 tablespoons of sesame oil, sugar, honey, pepper, mirin, Asian pear, water and sesame seeds. Mix well and pour over the dish with the tofu and vegetables, making sure the liquid covers the tofu. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, or at least 8 hours. DAY 2 • Make the kimchee fried rice: Heat the canola oil in a wok or large skillet over medium heat. Add the eggs and cook, stirring, about 2 to 3 minutes, or until set. Add the day-old rice and mix well. Add the kimchee (with its juice) and soy sauce and stir until evenly combined. Remove from heat and add the green onions, sesame seeds and pepper. Set aside and keep warm while you make the bulgogi. • Now, make the tofu bulgogi: Remove the tofu from the dish and place on a plate, reserving the marinade and vegetables. • Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of sesame oil over medium heat in a castiron skillet. • Once hot, add half of the tofu in one layer, being sure not to overcrowd the skillet. • Pour half of the reserved marinade and vegetables over the tofu in the skillet. Cook until the marinade has reduced completely, then flip the tofu. Cook an additional 1 to 2 minutes, or until the tofu is well browned on both sides. Repeat with the second half of the tofu and marinade mixture. • Serve over kimchee fried rice and 5 ounces of sauteed vegetables (mushrooms, carrots, baby bok choy, etc.). April 2012
April 2012
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home cooking one ingredient, 7 ways: asparagus
Spring Greening BY ligaya figueras and Stacy Schultz • Photo by Jonathan Gayman
W
e know spring is here when asparagus makes its annual debut. But these handsome stalks have more to offer than a cameo appearance in antipasto platters. Trim the tough, woody ends from each spear, then turn up the heat and get cooking.
1. Marinated asparagus Steam 1 pound asparagus for 5 minutes, or until crisptender. Plunge in ice water. Drain well. Place asparagus in baking dish and pour ¾ cup balsamic vinaigrette on top. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate for 5 hours. Serve cold. 2. Pesto Steam 1 pound asparagus for 5 minutes, until crisp-tender. Purée in a food processor. As asparagus begins to break down, add: 1 cup freshly chopped basil, ¹∕³ cup freshly chopped parsley, 2 garlic cloves, ¼ cup chopped walnuts. Slowly add ¾ cups extra virgin olive oil. Process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and fold in ½ cup Parmesan and season with salt and pepper. Use with pasta, or serve as a spread or dip with bread, crackers or veggies. 3. White frittata Drain 1 jar white asparagus. Cut stalks in half. In a skillet over medium heat, saute 1 small peeled and thinly sliced potato. When potato begins to soften, add half of a finely diced large yellow onion and 1 minced garlic clove. Saute until onion is translucent. In a bowl, beat 9 egg whites. To bowl, add 1 cup shredded fontina and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Mix well. Add potato-onion-garlic mixture and season with salt and white pepper. Stir well. Fold in white asparagus. Re-heat skillet and coat with olive oil. Add egg mixture to skillet. Cook until frittata begins to take shape. Transfer skillet to 350-degree oven. Bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover. Bake 5 minutes, or until frittata is cooked through and top begins to brown. 4. Crispy shaved asparagus Use a potato peeler to shred asparagus stalks into thin strips 1 to 2 inches in length. Fry strips in hot oil until crisp. Drain. Use as garnish for salads and soups.
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5. Soup Trim roots from 2 leeks. Remove leafy part, leaving some green portion. Slice in half lengthwise, then crosswise into very thin half-circle strips. Soak in cold water to remove grit. Drain. Cut 1 pound asparagus into 2-inch lengths. In a large pot, saute leeks and asparagus over medium heat until they begin to soften. Add 4 cups ham (or beef) stock. Bring to a boil. Add 1 medium peeled and diced potato. Cook over medium heat for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and purée with immersion blender. Add ¹∕³ cup heavy cream. Stir well. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with crispy shaved asparagus. 6. Roasted with poached egg Combine 2 tablespoons softened unsalted butter with 1 tablespoon minced dill and 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice. Mash until soft. Season with kosher salt and black pepper. Form into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Drizzle 1 bunch asparagus with extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast at 425 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, poach 2 eggs. Remove with slotted spoon onto a paper towel. Transfer to a plate and top with lemon-dill butter and poached eggs. Serve with toast. 7. Pizza Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and let pizza dough (either homemade or store-bought) come to room temperature. Thinly slice 4 green onions lengthwise. Cut 6 ounces asparagus in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Roll and stretch pizza dough into a 16-by-11-inch oval. Place on cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Brush 2 tablespoons olive oil over dough. Leaving a ½-inch border, sprinkle dough with half of sliced green onions, ½ cup grated fresh mozzarella, 2 ounces crumbled soft goat cheese, asparagus and ¼ cup grated Parmesan. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until asparagus is fork-tender. Sprinkle with remaining green onions and season. Cut and serve.
April 2012
April 2012
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review
Fish: Recipes from the Sea
Cook’s books: Fish
by Shannon Parker Fish: Recipes from the Sea is part piscine encyclopedia, part cookbook. The chapters are divided according to the variety of fish (round white fish, flat white fish, oily fish) and I have come to think of the compendium as a “backwards” cookbook of sorts. Essentially, the message is this: Go to a fabulous fish market and bring home something that looks good. Then, use the book to figure out what to do with it. For those unfamiliar with fish preparation, the recipes are refreshingly clear and simple – so much so, in fact, that readers might ponder why “for dummies” isn’t in the title. Suggested prep times are given, and few exceed an hour. No exotic ingredients or equipment are required, either. The authors suggest, however, that their prose will “demystify” seafood for readers, a tone some might find a tad smug. But even for the reader who is well versed in fish prep, the impressive
tutorials on techniques such as trimming, scaling and cleaning are a welcome refresher. Novices, however, should be warned: Photos of the latter aren’t for the squeamish.
back to the necessary techniques. Equally helpful: Almost all of the recipes provide an alternative fish, so readers can focus on what’s sustainable – and available – at their local markets.
The recipes, which were gleaned from the archives of The Silver Spoon (first published in 1950 and frequently described as the Italian version of The Joy of Cooking), include some amusing, old-school descriptions: Sardines, for instance, are “startlingly attractive.” The good-looking fish can be marinated in citrus juice and topped with endive and fennel or stuffed with herbs and couscous, then grilled. Their oily brethren, the swordfish, can be baked with tomatoes and Parmesan, or layered with vegetables and thyme – suggestions that seem simple in technique but not in flavor. And should the reader forget the teachings of the technical chapter, small icons in the margin of each recipe refer readers
While the book highlights ease of preparation and simple, friendly recipes, the main message focuses on finding fresh fish from a reliable source. Ultimately, those wanting to include more seafood into their diet in today’s world must consider sustainability. Given the global range of the cookbook’s audience, hardand-fast rules about which particular fish to buy aren’t applicable. Instead, the authors give general guidelines about purchasing from a reliable fishmonger, buying local and trying out new (and presumably not over-fished) species. It’s commendable and practical advice, indeed. The options may not be as plentiful as they are in Italy, but the results will be just as elegant.
Fish: Recipes from the sea by Phaid on
Wondering how the instructive recipes in this encyclopedic cookbook translate to the home cook? Check out By the Book this month on the blog at SauceMagazine.com to find out and to enter for a chance to win a copy of Fish: Recipes from the Sea.
Four books for deftly preparing seafood Nick Zotos, executive chef at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood, shares his go-to guides for understanding and handling seafood – Interviewed by Kylah Brown
photo by carmen troesser
The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery by A. J. McClane “An A to Z, tell-all comprehensive book on worldwide fish and shellfish. My favorite go-to book for expansive, detailed information about un[der]utilized species that are regional specialties in other cuisines around the world.” April 2012
One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish: The Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood Cookbook by Carole C. Baldwin and Julie H. Mounts “This book is great for using sustainable seafood and [has] useful facts about the species of the fish, crustacean, etc.”
The Fat Duck Cookbook by Heston Blumenthal “A true inspiration [from] a self-taught chef; a completely different way to look at food through your senses.”
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Unbelievably Good Duck Egg Custard Recipe on page 36
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The incredible edible duck egg Bigger and richer than their better-known cousins, duck eggs are all they’re cracked up to be By Kellie Hynes | Photos by Carmen Troesser
April 2012
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Thanks to his long-standing relationships with local farmers, chef David Kirkland is able to feature duck eggs on Café Osage’s warmweather menus. He likes to juxtapose the eggs’ big, rich flavor against local microgreens and light, in-season produce. Using what’s freshest, he roasts vegetables to make a hash and then dresses them with a gently poached duck egg and a brightly colored pesto. On the other side of Forest Park, Five Bistro’s Anthony Devoti pairs his hearty duck eggs with an equally robust entree. Auspicious diners will find them smoked and served atop succulently braised pork belly. But for those not lucky enough to land a seat at The Hill’s all-local eatery when these beauties adorn the menu, Devoti has an idea for wowing your own dinner guests this spring and summer seasons: “[Serve] smoked eggs with some ribs and potato salad and everyone will love you!”
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Thinking chef Devoti was onto something, I bought a dozen duck eggs to experiment with at home. Starting with the basics, I poached one. The difference between these eggs and their chicken counterparts became apparent even before the water bubbled. You have to really whack the shells to crack them open. Hit ’em harder than you think you should. Duck eggs aren’t for those with low muscle tone.
Ducks are divas. They only lay when it’s warm. Every other day. If they feel like it. Which means a limited laying season and an even more limited egg supply. Despite the inconsistency, duck eggs have an ardent fan club among local chefs.
Once my little ball of sunshine hit the water, it behaved just like any other egg, though it needed an extra minute in the hot water. In fact, when poaching, soft boiling or even hard boiling these big guys, you’ll need to add extra cooking time to your usual schedule. Desiree Rutherford, a duck egg
’m looking at a duck egg in the barn, and all I can think is owww. A duck egg is 40-percent larger than a chicken egg. Laying one must feel like giving birth to a VW. I try to high-five my duck sisters. The ducks do not reciprocate.
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farmer and avid home cook, makes her deviled duck eggs by cooking the eggs a full five minutes longer than she does chicken eggs. She also boils them in heavily salted water to make those rockhard shells easier to peel. Even without salt and pepper, the poached egg was indescribably divine. Some say duck eggs taste “stronger” than their chicken counterparts, but a more accurate description is “awesomely eggy.” They have the flavor of highly
substituted whole wheat pasta for the white stuff. Mistake. The pasta’s nuttiness overwhelmed the dish. Any health-conscious modification would have to come from reducing the amount of bacon, which competed with the egg’s flavor anyway. For good measure, I decided to use appetizer-size servings. Now it was time to see what these eggs could do on the sweet side of my palate. I avoid custard, since, to me, “flan” is just Spanish for
They have the flavor of highly concentrated chicken eggs – times a zillion. On its best day, a free-range, organic chicken egg tastes bland and rather watery by comparison. concentrated chicken eggs – times a zillion. On its best day, a free-range, organic chicken egg tastes bland and rather watery by comparison. And the yolk. The beautiful, vivid, sunset-over-the-ocean yolk. It didn’t ooze over my bread as much as it lazily coated it; a luxurious, velvety sensation that tasted so creamy I looked for a pound of butter hidden in the shell. There was nothing that could improve this egg. Except bacon. Carbonara is one of those bewitching pasta dishes that calls even ardent dieters back for seconds. I was eager to see what would happen if I used my new favorite ingredient. But my enthusiasm was tempered by a family history of heart disease; a single duck egg has 206-percent of an adult’s daily cholesterol allowance. Employing my diet-sodawith-fries philosophy, I
“slimy.” But duck egg whites have more albumin (protein) than chicken egg whites, which makes them more sturdy when cooked. So, I set aside my prejudice and made a duck egg custard by substituting one duck egg for two chicken eggs, a rule that can be applied to most baked-goods recipes. The custard was, without exaggeration, the best thing I have ever baked. Creamy and silky. Gently sweet yet still mild. If you make only one duck egg dish, make this the one. And (Bonus!) the same protein surplus that makes the custard dreamy will also make your meringues taller and your soufflés lighter. Yolks for taste and color. Whites for protein and structure. Everything is better when you use duck eggs. Which is why, once you try them, you may forsake all others. At least until the ducks retire in the fall. April 2012
April 2012
Duck Egg KindaCarbonara Appetizer
Smoked Duck Eggs
Boss Lady Brownies with Goat Milk Frosting
Vegetable Hash with Poached Duck Eggs and Pea Shoot Pesto
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Duck Egg KindaCarbonara Appetizer
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12 SERVINGS 1 lb. uncooked rotini pasta 3 duck eggs ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus additional for serving 5 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped 1 medium white onion, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • Cook the pasta in unsalted water until al dente according to the directions on the box. Drain, reserving ½ cup of the pasta cooking water. • Whisk together the eggs, Parmesan and warm (not hot) reserved pasta water. Set aside. • In a large saute pan, fry the bacon and onion over medium heat until the bacon is crispy and the onion is translucent. • Reduce the heat to low and add the cooked pasta to the bacon and onions. • Stir in the egg mixture, tossing to coat the pasta. Cook 1 to 2 minutes more, or until the egg mixture turns opaque. • Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. • Serve immediately, with extra Parmesan on the side.
Unbelievably Good Duck Egg Custard 6 SERVINGS
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ramekins with nonstick cooking spray and place in a 15-by-10by-2-inch baking dish. Whisk together the eggs, extra egg yolk, sugar and vanilla extract in a bowl. Set aside. Pour the milk in a heavy saucepan and heat over medium-low heat to a simmer (just below boiling). Turn off the burner, and slowly pour the egg mixture into the hot milk, whisking as you pour. Remove any shells or curdled milk bits by pouring the custard through a fine strainer into a 3-cup measuring cup or a bowl with a lip. Pour ½ cup of the custard into each ramekin. Sprinkle a pinch of powdered vanilla and nutmeg on top of each. Make a hot water bath by pouring 1 inch of the hot (but not boiling) water from the kettle into the baking dish. The water should reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 35 minutes, or until the custard is set, but still loose. Remove from the oven and let the ramekins rest in the water bath until they are cool. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
* Available in the spice section at Straub’s
Smoked Duck Eggs Courtesy of Five Bistro’s Anthony Devoti 6 SERVINGS
6 cups water 2 duck eggs plus 1 yolk ¹∕³ cup sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 cups whole milk ½ tsp. vanilla powder* ½ tsp. nutmeg • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. • Place the water in a kettle on the stove and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and leave the water in the kettle with the lid on. • Lightly spray six 7-ounce
6 duck eggs 3 Tbsp. table salt Sea salt flakes Special equipment: Barbecue smoker Wood chips • Heat the smoker to 165 degrees. • Place the eggs in a large pot. Cover with cold water, and add the table salt. • Bring the water to a boil. At the first sign of boiling, remove the
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pot from the heat and allow the eggs to sit in hot water for 14 minutes. • Plunge the eggs into an ice water bath to stop the cooking process. When they are cool enough to handle, peel the eggs, removing all of the shells. • Smoke for 25 minutes, or until the eggs have a “smoky” look. • Finish with sea salt to taste.
Deviled Duck Eggs Courtesy of Rutherford Family Farm’s Desiree Rutherford MAKES 24 EGGS 12 duck eggs 3 Tbsp. salt 4 Tbsp. mayonnaise ½ tsp. sugar 1 ∕8 tsp. sea salt ½ tsp. Dijon mustard 1 ∕16 tsp. garlic powder 1 ∕16 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 ∕16 tsp. cayenne pepper Hot sauce Paprika • Working in batches if necessary, place the duck eggs in a single layer in a large saucepan. Cover them with 1 inch of cold water. Add salt to the water. Heat over high heat until boiling. • Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. If using a heatsensitive egg timer, cook until “hard boiled” is indicated, then continue to cook an additional 5 minutes. • Remove from heat, drain and rinse eggs in cold water until they are cool enough to handle. Peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise. • Place the yolks in a bowl and reserve the whites. • Mash the yolks and add the mayonnaise, sugar, sea salt, mustard, garlic powder, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Mix well. • Spoon the yolk mixture into a pastry bag. • Add 1 drop of hot sauce to
each egg white, then pipe the yolk mixture into the hollow egg whites. • Garnish with paprika.
Boss Lady Brownies with Goat Milk Frosting
Vegetable Hash with Poached Duck Eggs and Pea Shoot Pesto
Courtesy of Kuhs Estate & Farm’s Elizabeth Parker
Courtesy of Café Osage’s David Kirkland 4 to 6 SERVINGS 1 butternut squash, diced 2 cups baby turnips, diced 4 beets, boiled and diced 1 large sweet potato, peeled and diced 10 medium Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced 2 medium white onions, diced ¼ cup fresh tarragon 1½ cup olive oil, divided ¹∕³ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup pea shoots Juice of 1 lemon 8 duck eggs, poached* • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • Toss the diced squash, turnips, beets, potatoes and onions with the tarragon, ½ cup of olive oil, flour and vinegar. Lay in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. • Roast in the oven for 1 hour, or until all of the vegetables are soft and tender. • Season with salt and pepper to taste. • While the vegetables roast, prepare the pea shoot pesto: In a food processor, blend the pea shoots, lemon juice and remaining cup of olive oil. Pulse until smooth. • To serve, place the vegetable hash on individual plates. Top with 1 or 2 poached eggs. Garnish with the pea shoot pesto. *Poach the duck eggs with 1 tablespoon of white vinegar and a dash of sea salt in the water.
24 Brownies 1½ cups unsalted butter, divided 2 cups white granulated sugar 3 tsp. vanilla extract, divided 4 fresh duck eggs ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. cocoa, divided 1 cup flour ½ tsp. baking soda ¼ tsp. salt 1 lb. powdered sugar, divided 3 Tbsp. goat or whole milk • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • Melt 1 cup of unsalted butter, reserving the remainder. • In a large bowl, combine the melted butter, sugar and 2 teaspoons of vanilla. Stir in the duck eggs, one egg at a time. • In a separate bowl, combine ½ cup of cocoa, flour, baking soda and salt. • Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture, stirring until blended. • Pour the batter into a lightly greased 13-by-9-inch pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes. • Meanwhile, make the frosting: Place ½ pound of powdered sugar in a mixing bowl and set aside, reserving the remainder. • Melt the remaining ½ cup of butter in a heavy saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon of cocoa and the milk, and bring to a boil. Remove from heat immediately. • Pour the butter mixture over the powdered sugar in the mixing bowl. Stir. Add 1 teaspoon of vanilla and additional powdered sugar until you reach your desired thickness. • Allow the frosting to set for 1 hour before using. • Allow the brownies to cool completely before frosting. For the best flavor, frost the brownies and let them rest, covered, overnight in the refrigerator. April 2012
BUY IT Ducks lay only in warm weather, typically from mid-March through midSeptember. Once the eggs hit the shelves, they’re swooped up quickly. It’s a good idea to reserve yours by calling or emailing your supplier in advance.
Maude’s Market $7.15/dozen 4219 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.4219, maudesmarket.com
Scott Harr, Harr Family Farms $8/dozen Soulard Farmers Market, St. Louis, 618.779.3055
Elizabeth Parker, Kuhs Estate & Farm $7/dozen 13061 Spanish Pond Road, Spanish Lake, 314.226.0709, info@kuhsfarm.com
Desiree Rutherford, Rutherford Family Farm $7/dozen Ellisville Farmers Market, Ellisville, 636.279.5350, rutherford_farm@yahoo.com
April 2012
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bay of pigs Cuba and America’s history may be a bit complex, but their finest collaboration – the Cuban sandwich – is proof that good food is greater than the sum of its parts By Julie Cohen | Photos by Jonathan Gayman and Ashley Gieseking
Bread Real Cuban bread is crisp and flaky on the outside and oh-so tender on the inside. Can’t find it? A 12-inch French baguette with a bit of butter smeared inside is a more-than-suitable stand-in.
Condiments Yellow mustard is the standard, but reach for spicy or Dijon for a little extra punch.
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Pickles Use no fewer than four dill pickles. Don’t be shy; pile those puppies on.
Main Event From the slices of sweet baked ham to the thin layer of pork that’s marinated in a citrusy garlic mojo sauce and then roasted low and slow, the pig is the star of the show. Use leftover or deli-sliced pork loin if you must.
golden touch To really get those juices mingling, be sure to use a plancha – a traditional flat sandwich press. Don’t have one? Use a panini press, the top of your spatula, a brick wrapped in tin foil or whatever it takes. Just be sure to press hard until the whole shebang is toasty on the outside and melted and oozing on the inside.
Cheese Unless you have something against pacifism, two slices of Swiss really shouldn’t be compromised. Provolone can be used, but you’ll be sacrificing flavor. No. 6 sandwich cubano at La Tropicana Market and Cafe.
April 2012
erhaps the Tainos, some of the earliest inhabitants to Cuba, were the ones who thought to roast the pork. Maybe the Spanish conquistadors added the pickles in the 1500s, and later, the cheese. No one truly knows when the Cuban sandwich was first conceived in Cuba, but we do know when it left. It left, literally, in the late 1800s alongside disgruntled Cuban cigar manufacturers hoping to avoid Spanish rule. As they migrated to Ybor City in Tampa’s Latin Quarter, the sandwich eventually spread with the immigrant population to New York and the rest of the country. It left, figuratively, on New Year’s Day in 1959 when Fidel Castro and his revolutionaries overthrew the Cuban government and sent President Fulgencio Batista fleeing Cuba in a tuxedo. The revolution and consequent embargo profoundly changed Cuban food. Without products coming in from the U.S., the Cuban government implemented a food distribution system in 1962 that rationed out basics such as bread, rice and eggs. To this day, the ration card includes only scarce amounts of meat. It left, crushingly, in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Without the support of the Soviets and the $4 to $5 billion April 2012
in aid Cuba had received each year in the form of a guaranteed export, Cuba’s economy fell into absolute crisis. For the next five years, the government survived, but the people suffered. They ate no meat or milk and lived on rice and beans. Cuba refers to this time as the “Special Period,” special serving as a euphemism for starving. During a month I spent in Cuba several years ago, I gorged myself on the world’s best mangoes, learned subtle differences between household recipes for moros y cristianos (black beans and rice), and ate dozens of greasy, doughy peso pizzas that had been cooked and sold on the street. But I never saw a single Cuban sandwich. Sandwiches are still eaten in Cuba, of course, but they’re unrecognizable from what we know them to be here in The States. If there is pork, there won’t also be ham, for two meats together would be far too decadent. The cheese and bread are government-issued,
pickles are impossible to find, and the mustard is the consistency of the stuff that oozes out when you forget to shake the bottle. But according to Luis Trabanco, owner of La Tropicana Market here in St. Louis, the Cuban sandwich we know today is actually more authentic than we think. While older Cubans, like Trabanco’s parents, still remember Cuban cooking pre-Fidel – when things like bread and dairy were copious and meat wasn’t rationed out family by family – younger Cubans have lived under Fidel’s rule and strict culinary restrictions their entire lives. Thus, the first time they taste the cheeseand-meat-laden fare of their ancestors is when they leave their native country for the U.S. and drop by places like La Tropicana, still the only Cuban-run restaurant in St. Louis. But what an authentic Cuban sandwich is supposed to taste like depends on whom you
ask. The earliest Cuban immigrants in Ybor City lived adjacent to Italian immigrants, so Tampa natives will claim salami has as much of a place between the slices as the ham, pickles, pork, mustard and cheese. Trabanco, whose family fled to Miami before settling in St. Louis, swears by the Miami version, which only has room for the standards: no salami, no tomatoes, no mayo and certainly no lettuce. It’s this minimalist take that most often appears on menus today. Compared to other U.S. cities, St. Louis’ Cuban population is very small. But thankfully, the country’s prized culinary contribution – the Cuban sandwich – is popping up all over town. From sandwiches that tip their hats to the classic combo with artisanal touches to those that turn tradition on its head by taking a few culinary liberties, here is very tasty proof that, at least in St. Louis, the Cuban sandwich is alive and well.
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classic division
Artisanal breads. Slow-roasted meats. House-made sauces. The classic Cuban has never looked – or tasted – better.
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Luvy Duvy’s Cafe Cuban Sandwich
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$8. 2321 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.776.5889, luvyduvys.com
La Tropicana Market and Cafe
No. 6 Sandwich Cubano
Thick slices of pork kissed with a cumin-laden mojo of garlic, olive oil and citrus are roasted for eight hours and then stacked with sweet ham, baby Swiss, dill pickles and good ol’ yellow mustard. Everything gets smashed between authentic Cuban bread from Valenti’s – a loaf lighter and airier than hearty French. Eat with a side of sweet plátanos maduros and die of bliss. $8. 5001 Lindenwood Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.7328, latropicana.com
Owners Cassady Caldwell and Jackie Seal marinate their pork loin in citrus, garlic, olive oil, onions and oregano for 24 hours. Like ceviche, the citrus juices “cook” the pork, which is then baked in the morning for good measure. Once sliced, the juicy meat is topped with sweet ham and pickles and sandwiched between Swiss on both sides of a buttered, melt-in-yourmouth kaiser-shaped brioche roll from nearby bakery La Bonne Bouchée. The usual suspects and sweet brioche make Luvy Duvy’s version reminiscent of the Medianoche, another Cuban staple that was served in Havana nightclubs after an evening on the dance floor. Apply a smear of the Dijon served on the side, and you’ll break out into a happy dance all your own.
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Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar Cuba (Missouri)
Slathered in mojo before roasted, Bridge’s local pork marries with ham, pickles, sweet Emmenthaler cheese and a tangy mustard aioli. This one-two-three flavor-punch is served hot on a white bun fresh from the ovens at Baileys’ Range just down the street. Don’t let the “Cuba, Missouri” joke trick you into thinking this sandwich is anything but spot-on. $9. 1004 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.8141, thebridgestl.com
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Local Harvest Cafe
Cuban
To step onto the smokier side, try Local Harvest’s house-smoked pulled pork: layered with thick slices of Missouri ham, crisp cucumberlike pickles and Dijon, delivered hot and steamy on a chewy semolina roll from Companion. Order this worthy ‘wich for brunch, lunch, dinner – or all three. $8.50. 3137 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.772.8815, localharvestcafe.com
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Boogaloo Cubaniche
Starting with a jerk dry rub, Boogaloo’s pork is slowroasted for a lengthy 10 to 12 hours and then bathed in a Caribbean citrus marinade. It finds friends in honey ham, Swiss, pickles, mustard and mayo, then is encapsulated by a hefty French baguette before spending some time atop a toasty grill. Though a few more hours in the marinade couldn’t hurt, this is a tasty take on the classic Cuban. Be sure to sub in the plátanos maduros for the fries. $9.50. 7344 Manchester Blvd., Maplewood, 314.645.4803, boogalooswings.com
April 2012
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the wild side 1
City Diner at the Fox and South City Diner’s Cuban Roasted pork may be in the driver’s seat in this excellent rendition of the classic Cuban, but it’s chicken – not ham – sitting shotgun. The sandwich, served with pickles but not mustard, is grilled on a French baguette and accompanied by a sweet-and-spicy mojo that beautifully complements the smokiness of the Gouda, which stands in for good ol’ Swiss. $7.75 to $8.25, 541 N. Grand Blvd., 314.533.7500 and 3139 S. Grand Blvd., 314.772.6100, saucemagazine.com/ citydiner/
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Cha Cha Chow’s Cuban Crime of Passion Whether you’re catching this truck curbside for a quick lunch or fleeing the Library Annex latenight for an afterhours nibble, as long as Cha Cha Chow hasn’t run out of pork, the Cuban Crime of Passion satisfies every time. Cha Cha’s pork gets encrusted in a spicy Mexican adobo dry rub and then roasted low and slow for 12 to 14 hours. The tender pork will almost make you forget that the sandwich is missing the ham. The
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Throw everything you know about Cuban sandwiches out the window. Then grab a napkin – it’s gonna get messy.
Mexican Chihuahua cheese, pickles and in-house Cha Cha mustard (made from Cha Cha sauce and secret ingredients) top off this showstopper, which is served on a double-toasted and buttered roll joined by a side of fresh-fromthe-oil fries. $7.50. 314.239.2832, chachachow. com, Twitter @ WheresChaCha
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El Torito’s Torta Cubano Goodbye expectations, hello hangover cure. This may be the least bona fide Cuban on the list but it’s also the most exciting. Sure, it touts the expected ham, but the pork is given the carnitas treatment – dusted with hints of chili powder and blacklicorice-flavored anise – and the cheese is the same creamy white Chihuahua that adorns the restaurant’s Mexican fare. Like a Tampa Cuban, there are tomatoes and some onions, but the rules stop there. Mine had traces of avocado, chunks of hot dog and a scrambled egg, with pickled carrots and jalapeños sprinkled in. Cuban, Mexican and a lil’ American, this is foreign relations at its best. $6. 2753 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.771.8648 April 2012
April 2012
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acid t 44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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trip
From Spain to Italy, France to Germany, we found the finest vinegars the world has to offer By Ligaya Figueras Photos by Greg Rannells
April 2012
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Some 7,000 years after the Babylonians thought to use soured wine as a condiment, we’re still experimenting with the culinary possibilities of vinegar. We’re infusing it with funky flavors to add an edge to dressings, marinades, sauces and jellies. We’re matching the vinegar native to one nation with the cuisine of another. We’re even re-imagining its long-lost use in beverages. Whether you want a splash of flavor that’s boldly astringent, sweet yet spicy, or seductively rich and mellow, there’s a variety to suit your needs – and your taste buds.
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1. L’Estornell Grenache Varietal Red Wine Vinegar
2. Dark Chocolate Balsamic Vinegar
Smooth, velvety and sweet, this is a best If “EVOO and a little friend to anything that S&P” is your go-to for a likes chocolate: from good vinaigrette, then bananas to berries, ice this bracing, rose-hued cream to cheesecake. vinegar from Spain Creative types: Hide a should be your go-to tablespoon in your next salad vinegar. Put it batch of chocolate chip within arm’s reach. $11: muffins or use it as the 375 mL; Veritas Gateway secret weapon in a mole to Food & Wine, sauce. $7.50: 100 mL; Di veritasgateway.com 46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Olivas, diolivas.com
3. Coconut Secret Raw Coconut Vinegar
Don’t expect this organic vinegar made from raw coconut blossom sap to taste anything like sweet coconut milk. Swap the apple cider stuff for this sharper variety, or use it with ginger and garlic as a marinade for meat and poultry. $7: 12.7 oz.; Local Harvest Grocery, localharvestgrocery.com
4. Cranberry-Pear Balsamic Vinegar
Crisp and light, pair this vinegar with bloodorange EVOO for a salad dressing that pops with tangy fruit. It makes a great glaze for poultry, and just a splash brings a cranberry vodka tonic into the 21st century. $7.50: 100 mL; Di Olivas, diolivas.com
5. Martin Pouret Fruits Rouges Four-Berry Fruit Vinegar
If you like berries to the nth degree, try this French white wine vinegar that’s blended with raspberry, black currant, bilberry and red currant juices. Swirl it into a fruit soup or drizzle over warm, wilted radicchio. $10: 250 mL; Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, extravirginoo.com
6. Dumangin Reims Champagne Vinegar
Like its bubbly French relative, true Champagne vinegar pairs beautifully with creatures of the sea. Splash a bit over oysters instead of a lemon squeeze, or use it to deglaze the pan after cooking fish, especially salmon. $19: 12 oz.; Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com
7. Vinegar of Banyuls
Match the nutty aroma of this delicate French vinegar with walnut oil to toss over a salad of sharp greens studded with blue cheese and (duh) walnuts. Its supporting notes of spice cake and vanilla do wonders combined with cherries in a sauce atop lamb chops. $22: 375 mL; Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, April 2012 extravirginoo.com
BALSAMIC: BETTER WITH AGE
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Vinegar is an acid that is made when fruits like grapes or apples or grains such as malted barley or rice, are fermented to produce alcohol. A bacteria culture is then added to turn the fermented alcohol into acetic acid, which is what gives this pantry staple its sour taste.
Balsamic vinegar is, at its basic, an aged reduction of grapes. But not all balsamics are the same. The runny, commercial-grade stuff sold at the supermarket tastes sweet but sharply acidic and pales in comparison to a true balsamic, known as aceto balsamico tradizionale. The real stuff is glossy, dark and highly viscous, with complex flavors of honey, fig, raisin and deep caramel. It’s
a dark syrup. It’s then placed in a wooden barrel and an older balsamic, known as “the mother,” is added to help with fermentation.
used sparingly as a condiment to majestically finish a dish. Real balsamic hails from the Modena and Reggio Emilia regions of Italy. Every acetaia, or vinegar house, has its own closely guarded recipe, but in order for a vinegar to be a true balsamic, it must be made according to strict standards. Once the sweet, Trebbiano grapes are pressed, the juice is reduced until it becomes
Aceto balsamico tradizionale must age for at least 12 years (though some have aged upwards of 50 years). Each year, the vinegar is transferred to a different wooden barrel. Each wood imparts its flavor onto the vinegar, giving it layer upon layer of flavor and richness.
SPOTTING THE GOOD STUFF How you know
you’re not buying an imposter
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Look for the letters DOP, the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin, on the bottle.
the vinegar has aged for a minimum of 12 years, a silver label usually indicates a 20to 25-year-old vinegar, while a gold label holds the highest grade vinegar – one that has generally aged 35 years or more. For a balsamic from Modena, a red label indicates a 12-year vinegar and a yellow label denotes the highest grade. The hefty price tag ($100 and up) is another sign that you’re holding the real deal.
Distinctly shaped, 100-mL bottles come topped with a wax seal in a box with a brochure of recipes and a description of the manufacturing process. The color of the label is an indicator of the grade of the balsamic. For a balsamic that hails from Reggio Emilia, a red label means
8. Waldburg Balsam Beer
This German pick is a specialty of malt-andconcentrated beer vinegar, aged in oak barrels, then refined with brandy vinegar. Use it to saute sausages, onions and peppers, and reach for it when hot fries or freshly made chips hit your plate. $5: 100 mL; Vom Fass, April 2012 vomfassslmo.com
9. Honey Ridge Farms Serrano Chile Balsamic Honey Vinegar
The sweet-plus-heat character offers a onetwo punch to wake up sleepy slaws and sauces. A drizzle over insalata caprese is ItalianMexican fusion at its finest. $15: 250 mL; Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, extravirginoo.com
10. Waldburg Balsam Calamansi
In a glass filled with ice, combine 3 parts sparkling water, 1 part ginger liqueur and a splash of this vinegar, made with a Filipino variety of citrus fruit. Drink up. $5: 100 mL; Vom Fass, vomfassslmo.com
LOOK FOR THESE LABELS Acetaia Sangiacomo aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia Red label $149 Silver label $189 Gold label $249 Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, extravirginoo.com
Acetum aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena Red label $105 Yellow label $210 Di Olivas, diolivas.com
Condiment-grade balsamics
T are made according to
BUDGE BUY
traditional methods but cost a fraction of the price.
Olivier 25-year barrel-aged balsamic vinegar Pour with EVOO for a crusty
bread-dipping experience like none you’ve had before. $28: 15.5 oz.; saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47 Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com
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by Byron Kerman
food
ONGOING Food, Glorious Food, presented by Art St. Louis April 14 to May 23, opening reception: April 14 – 6 to 8 p.m., Art St. Louis · 314.241.4810 · artstlouis.org The new group art show at Art St. Louis, – Food, Glorious Food – is right up our alley. In addition to curating a juried show of dozens of works about food, beverages, restaurants and more, the gallery has scheduled a series of related events. The opening reception on April 14 features a block party with food trucks, plus live jazz and quality regional wines. A wine and networking event on April 24, an opportunity to Dine with the Artists on April 28, and A Mother of a Potluck event on May 12 set to feature hundreds of dishes to share, all sound foodie-cool.
SPECIAL EVENTS Tour D’Onut April 15 – 9 a.m., tour starts at World’s Fair Donuts 708.256.0994 · tourdonut.tumblr.com Last year’s inaugural Tour D’Onut bike ride with stops at five indy doughnut shops was held in the blazing heat of a St. Louis July. While doughnuts taste awesome in any weather, a doughnut followed by a sauna followed by a doughnut followed by a sauna, ad absurdum, could try the constitution of an Olympic athlete. This year, the tour is in April, which will (hopefully) be a bit milder. Grab your bike (or your Rollerblades) and meet at World’s Fair Donuts, then continue with the peloton to other South City doughnut palaces like O’Fashion Donuts, St. Louis Hills Donut Shop, Eddie’s Southtown Donuts and Plaza Pastries & Donuts. The high-carb adventure ends with a reception at McDonald Park, featuring “live donut-themed music,” prizes for those dressed up like doughnuts and Schlafly beer.
reMAKE Thursday, presented by Perennial April 19 – 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., Water Street · 314.832.2288 perennialstl.org Drinking with your buds is all well and good, but what if you could emerge from the saloon with some sort of charming
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handicraft that you cobbled together while imbibing? A clever new happy-hour event has hit town, courtesy of the recyclers of non-profit Perennial. The new monthly reMAKE Thursdays allow a group of participants (who have RSVPed at classes@ perennialstl.org) the chance to turn trashed materials into nifty crafts. This month’s crafts: An old T-shirt becomes a reusable produce bag, a vintage hardback book becomes a memo pad, and craft-project scraps become a corner bookmark. Perennial’s “upcycled” craft projects pair perfectly with Water Street’s retro cocktail menu, too.
Chefs, Friends and Families 5K Run/Walk April 22 – 9 a.m., Overlook Farm · 573.242.3838 overlookfarmmo.com Working as a chef is a dangerous, tempting journey. If you’re not careful, the constant proximity to delicious food can add pounds to your frame. The first annual Chefs, Friends and Families 5K Run/Walk is a good reminder that we need to get our exercise. Overlook Farm in Clarksville, Mo., is the beautiful backdrop for the event. There will also be post-race snacks (of course), awards, a raffle or silent auction, farm tours and, possibly, a potluck brunch. While you’re there, check out Overlook’s farm-to-table restaurant and historic inns, too.
Eric Schlosser Dinner: April 24 – 6 to 10 p.m., Farmhaus; lecture: April 25 – 7:30 p.m., Hettenhausen Center for the Arts, McKendree University, Lebanon, Ill. · 618.537.6863 · thehett.com slowfoodstl.com It’s been 10 years now since Eric Schlosser’s 2002 exposé Fast Food Nation confirmed many disturbing fears – and revealed plenty of horrifying new revelations – about the global fast-food industry. You can ask Schlosser about the struggle to make food healthy, fairly grown and raised, local and fresh, and so on, at two events this month. Slow Food St. Louis, appropriately enough, welcomes him to a dinner at Farmhaus whipped up by chef Josh Galliano, who was just named The People’s Best New Chef: Midwest by Food and Wine. The dinner includes apps, a five-course spring menu and locally made beer and wine.
five questions for Andrew L adlie Andrew Ladlie spent time behind the double doors at Annie Gunn’s and Frontenac Grill, among others. But when his maiden venture, Sassy Jac’s, opens this month, he’ll wear the toque and serve up Southern-style eats. What will be on the menu? We’re going to keep it Southern. My wife is from Savannah, and I spent time learning how to cook in New Orleans. We’re all about sweet tea, fried pork chops and our andouille-chicken club sandwich. It will be lunch-focused. Everything will be very fresh, with as much as possible made in-house. We’ll put shrimp salad on a croissant, and we’ll serve a “muffuletta salad.” With dinner entrees, I’m going big and robust with stick-toyour ribs, fill-you-up food: fried chicken and gravy, big fried pork chops with stewed tomatoes and okra, a great steak selection, redfish and other fish from the Gulf probably blackened with Cajun butter, and hopefully a low-country boil once a week with crawfish, shrimp, baby potatoes, corn and a great broth. How do you envision the ambiance? Warm and, like, so casual you can come in wearing your pajamas. A place where you can have a beer on your way home from work and get a great meal, too. You can sit and talk to the person next to you, which will be that much easier because of the bench seating along two walls.
What are your plans for the bar? We managed to land one of the Annie Gunn’s bartenders, a lady named Annie Clark. She’s more than a bartender – she’s an entertainer. She’ll keep you in your seat. We’ve modeled our whole staff after that feeling – getting the guests what they want, warmth and fun. Because of that Southern theme, a lot of the drinks will have a bourbon flair, like some special bourbon martinis and cocktails. Do you play music in the restaurant kitchen? Music isn’t allowed in the kitchen, but every employee is encouraged to sing, even if they sing terribly. What sort of hobbies do you have? Playing dress up with my daughter. Once you have your own kid, it’s a perfect excuse to act like a kid again. I’d rather play princess and dress up all day long than do anything else. – Byron Kerman Sassy Jac’s 1730 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.932.1280, sassyjacs.com
April 2012
Photo by carmen troesser
stuff to do:
For part 2 of this interview, visit the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com.
s t u ff to d o: fo o d
Best seat in the house
the experts had taught him, looking for dead trees and variations in the colors of the grass and dirt – but no dice. He’d seen a Snickers wrapper and a lot of weeds. He sat on the ground, leaned against a tree trunk and sighed. Just then, he caught movement in his peripheral vision. Was that … it couldn’t be … a little person? What looked to be a pint-sized older gentleman appeared from behind a bush. He had a little pointed hat and was smoking a pipe. His hairy little feet made nary a sound on the earth as he stepped forward. “Hello,” said the friendly fellow, “What’s your name?” “Uh, Sean.” “Good day, Sean,” said the creature. “I suppose you’ll be wondering what I am now. I’m a hobbit.” Oh Lordy, thought Sean. This mushroom foray just got interesting.
sponsored events Food Glorious Food
April 14 to May 23, opening reception and block party: April 14 – 6 to 8 p.m., Art Saint Louis · 314.241.4810 artstlouis.org
Chez Leon,
7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.361.1589, chezleon.com
The days may be warm but the cool night breeze is sure to keep sweaters around for a few more weeks. Before sticky fingers and backyard barbecues take over, grab this corner cubby at Chez Leon, where dark walls, plush seating and a mounted mirror keep things cozy yet mature – at least for a night.
The next night, Schlosser heads east to McKendree University for what should be an enlightening and inspiring chat.
Dining Out for Life
Photo by ashley gieseking
April 26, 314.333.6671 · diningoutforlife.com Ribs at Pappy’s Smokehouse; a grassfed beef burger with crimini mushrooms, caramelized onions and goat cheese at Baileys’ Range; and shrimp and grits at Coastal Bistro & Bar – do we have your attention yet? These are but a tiny sampling of what you might order at this year’s Dining Out for Life event. More than 100 restaurants have agreed to donate at least 25 percent of the day’s receipts to the St. Louis Effort for AIDS (STLEFA). April 2012
Check the event’s website (above) for a complete list of participating restaurants and eligible mealtimes. And tip your cap to the magnanimously generous crew at Atomic Cowboy, the only restaurant that will donate 100 percent of its proceeds to STLEFA.
CLASS Morel Madness April 20 to 22 – call for times, Cuivre River State Park 636.686.0705 · momyco.org This mushroom-hunting thing was pretty boring, thought Sean. He’d been out in the middle of the Cuivre River State Park woods for half a day, and he hadn’t found a single ‘shroom. He was scanning the ground like
See details on page 50.
A Tasteful Affair
April 15 – 2 to 5 p.m., Chase Park Plaza · 314.652.3663 x 117 · foodoutreach.org Be ready for a cheeky renaissance redux at Food Outreach’s largest fundraiser of the year, Ye Olde A Tasteful Affaire. It’s Monty Python-meets-modern day mischiefmakers, all to raise funds for beneficiaries battling life-threatening illnesses. General admission tickets are on sale for $50.
Chef Friends and Family 5K Run/Walk
April 22 – 9 a.m., Overlook Farm · overlookfarmmo.com
See details on page 50.
Earth Day Festival
April 22 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., The Muny grounds of Forest Park · stlouisearthday.org Join us at the Earth Day cafe for everything from organic vegetarian jambalaya and empanadas to St. Louis-style barbecue. Schlafly will be serving its Organic Pale Ale and other favorites, while The Royale will dish out special Earth Day cocktails by the main stage. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
stuff to do:
art by Byron Kerman
Consider yourself the king of the bar-time trivia night? See how far that clever wit takes you at WordFEST: The Olympics of Word Games, occurring this month at SLU. See details on page 53.
Killer Joe, presented by St. Louis Actors Studio
April 6 to 22 – various times, Gaslight Theater 314.458.2978 · stlas.org Tracy Letts’ Killer Joe has been described as a kind of Tobacco Road for the stage, with characters wallowing in a whitetrash despair of trailer parks, empty sex and tuna casserole. But more so, this over-the-top tragedy is reminiscent of Sam Shepard’s work, where the playwright explores a family dynamic so vile it may begin to seem like a cartoon. Whether the humor is intentional or not, it sure is sick. We’re talking about matricide, wife beating and a virginal young woman pimped out by her own family. The plot revolves around a contract killing that develops complications. The titular Killer Joe has some creative ideas about how his clients can repent for their ineptitude. The second act is drenched in violence, and what with plenty of nudity, too, this one is for mature audiences only.
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Conversations with an Executioner, presented by Upstream Theatre April 13 to 29 – various times, Kranzberg Arts Center 314.863.4999 · upstreamtheater.org “Intense” is one word that comes to mind when considering the oeuvre of Upstream Theatre. Its latest, Conversations With an Executioner, is no exception. Upstream founder Philip Boehm has adapted the memoirs of WWII Polish resistance fighter Kazimierz Moczarski for the stage. Moczarski’s tale of life in the underground would be colorful enough, even if he hadn’t been captured by the Soviets after the war, tortured and made to share a cell with one of the most notorious Nazi officers, SSGruppenführer Jürgen Stroop (noted for brutally putting down the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising). “Moczarski had actually tried to assassinate Stroop at one point during the war,” said Boehm. “And here he was, locked in the same cell as one of his mortal enemies, a man responsible for the deaths of so
many thousands. He had to maintain his composure – so as not to attack Stroop, his dignity – so as not to fraternize with the enemy, and his humanity – in order to share a common cell. Moczarski recognized that Stroop was not just a German phenomenon, but sadly, a human one.”
The New World, presented by Shakespeare Festival St. Louis
April 27 to 29 – various times, venue TBA · 314.531.9800 shakespearefestivalstlouis.org Somewhere along the way, during the hundreds of years that have passed since Shakespeare’s plays were first performed, the bard’s output transformed from entertainment for common folk to highfalutin’ fare for theater aesthetes. Now, Shakespeare Festival St. Louis and sponsoring group PNC Arts Alive are doing their part to take Shakespeare back to the streets. The New World is an adaptation of The Tempest specially written to reflect changing times in the Cherokee Street April 2012
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neighborhood. The one-hour, freeadmission performances star a mix of actors and Gravois Park neighborhood residents making a statement about diversity and togetherness. “Many of the neighborhoods of St. Louis are divided by gates, fences and barriers,” said the play’s director, Tlaloc Rivas, in a press statement. “I had an image of Prospero in his final act where he breaks his staff as a gesture of relinquishing his magic power in order to embrace forgiveness. In my interpretation, I envisioned our Cherokee Street Prospero, at the end of the performance, symbolically destroying a gate – uniting our neighborhoods once again.”
LITERARY EVENTS William Stage
April 5 – 5:30 p.m., Regional Arts Commission; April 19 – 4 p.m., Washington Avenue Post; April 14 – 2 p.m. Sue’s News · 314.420.2226 In a new collection of humorous short stories by veteran area journalist and author William Stage, the characters – an all-star cast of St. Louis weirdos – get into all sorts of trouble. There’s the process server (currently one of Stage’s real-life vocations), whose arrest for relieving himself in an alley snowballs into a conviction for a sex offense. Then there’s the death of the conductor of a miniature train at the Saint Louis Zoo (based on a true story), which becomes a surreal murder mystery. The collection, Not Waving, Drowning, features dozens of references to local oddities like The Evening Whirl crime newspaper, the Village Bar in Des Peres, and beloved St. Louis Brown Heinie Manush. Stage reads from and signs his book at a series of events this month.
WordFEST
Photo by david kovaluk
April 14 – 6 to 10 p.m., DuBourg Hall, St. Louis University 314.289.4080 · studiostl.org Jeopardy champion Ken Jennings once called St. Louis “a trivia town.” Indeed, every weekend Mound City plays host to dozens of trivia contests that serve as benefits for worthy groups. So, when an organization holds a creative benefit that’s a contest every bit as clever and fun as a trivia night, it’s a shindig worthy of a look. This brings us to the third annual WordFEST: The Olympics of Word Games. The competition pits teams of eight against one another in games like April 2012
Scrabble, Scattergories, Boggle, Taboo, Bananagrams, word finds, crossword puzzles and original contests. The dough collected benefits StudioSTL, a nonprofit that helps kids build their writing skills. St. Louis, we believe, is also a wordgame town.
before & after Drumline Competition at Chaifetz
EXHIBIT Downtown STL ARTwalk
April 19 – 4 p.m., Leather Trades Artists’ Lofts stlartwalk@gmail.com As downtown continues to become a destination for working, dining and playing, the new Downtown STL ARTwalk sounds like just the ticket. The Leather Trades Artists’ Lofts sponsors the tour of galleries, shops and restaurants concentrated along Washington Avenue. The event begins at an open house at the newly renovated Lofts and includes stops at Lola, MacroSun International, Philip Slein Gallery, Copia Urban Winery, Fifteen and many other fun businesses – a fair number of which will offer special one-day deals to ARTwalkers. Between the stops, look for street performers, art demonstrations and exhibits on the street.
MUSIC Showdown: Historically Black College & University Drumline Show April 21 – 2 p.m., Chaifetz Arena · 314.210.5849 showmesound.org If your experience with African-American marching-band units is limited to the Nick Cannon movie Drumline, you owe it to yourself to check out the real deal at the annual Showdown: Historically Black College & University Drumline Show. The diversity of styles exhibited by the exciting bands from Central States University, Harris-Stowe State University, Howard University, Kentucky State University, Langston University, Lincoln University, North Carolina A&T University and the Saints of Columbus, Ohio will wow you. Also on the bill: the St. Louis Public Schools Middle School and ShowMe Sound F.O.C.U.S. drumlines. You can watch the groups march in a precisely choreographed parade beginning at 9:30 a.m. (at Jefferson at Market streets), with the head-to-head competition starting at 2 p.m. Make a night of it with our suggestions for where to eat and drink before and after the show, at right.
BEFORE:
Right before heading to the showdown, why not chow down on delicious grub with fabulously naughty names? Newly opened Hamburger Mary’s Bar & Grille dishes lunch daily. Start with an order of Hot Wangs & Thangs (with “Hell Mary!” sauce), then dig into one of Mary’s juicy ground chuck burgers on brioche (For $2, upgrade to humanely treated, natural Angus beef.) And don’t forget to order a side of Tasty Ta-ta’s (aka good ol’ Tater Tots). 3037 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.533.6279, hamburgermarys.com
AFTER:
Now that you’ve spent the day watching kids march in formation, take that childlike spirit to Midtown’s favorite sweet spot: The Fountain On Locust. The Pick Two (pictured) allows you to pair the meaty yet fresh Blackhawk sandwich with a bowl of Polish dill pickle soup. A potatobased concoction gets mixed with puréed sour dills for this savory and surprisingly satisfying soup. Finish things off with a too-rich-to-talk-about malt. 3037 Laclede Blvd., St. Louis, 314.535.7800, fountainonlocust.com
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Now these pretzels are making us thirsty. Nothing makes our taste buds sing like the sweet and salty pairing of milk chocolate and crunchy pretzels. Add a few scoops of pure vanilla ice cream and some silky, gooey caramel, and you’ve got the ideal answer to that ever-singing sweet tooth. Just crush, scoop, blend and sip. One milkshake – two straws. – Stacy Schultz
Salty Kisses Milkshake Courtesy of Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium’s Mark Lucas Makes 1 16-ounce shake 5 scoops vanilla ice cream ¼ cup old-fashioned caramel 2 to 3 oz. crushed salted pretzels 2 to 3 oz. mini Hershey Kisses Splash milk
Photo by greg rannells
• Place the ice cream and caramel in a blender and blend for 45 seconds. • Add the pretzels, Kisses and milk and blend for another 2 minutes, or until the shake reaches the desired consistency.
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