April 2013 issue

the list

the people, places, dishes and drinks we love

fleurs of florissant ∙ spring roots and shoots ∙ the trendiest pop-up yet s t.2013 lo u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y April

sau c e m aga zi n e .co m

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19 contents april 2013

11 A La Carte

49

Reviews 19 new and notable: The Restaurant at The Cheshire

by Michael Renner

23 Nightlife: The Fortune Teller Bar

by Matt Berkley

24 Cook’s Books: French Cooking Decoded

29

by julie cohen

26 where to explore next: Florissant

12

by Ligaya figueras

Home cooking 29 What in the world: Bamboo shoots

by Ligaya Figueras

30 Vegetize it: Caesar salad

cover details

A Salad Fit For an Emperor

by Beth Styles

32 One ingredient, 3 ways: Leeks Falling in Love with Leeks

features

by Dee Ryan

34 By Popular Demand I Fratellini's Mushroom Ravioli

Last course 53 Stuff to do by byron Kerman

54 Five questions for: Ben Edison

by Byron Kerman

= recipe on this page

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38 the list the people, places, dishes and drinks we love by julie cohen, ligaya figueras, kellie hynes, byron kerman, meera nagarajan and stacy schultz

49 Salt spectrum With time, creativity and a little muscle, you can transform household salts into fancy finishers that will leave your pantry well stocked with an arsenal of refined flavor.

BY Julie Cohen

smoked ice at boogaloo p. 42

Photo by Greg Rannells fleurs of florissant p. 26 spring roots and shoots p. 32 the trendiest pop-up yet p. 17

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use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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We’re (obviously) big proponents of print here, yet we can’t help but squeal at all that the digital age offers. Did you know how many ways you can enjoy Sauce Magazine these days? From your computer screen to your tablet, even your phone, the options are nearly endless. Here are a few new ways to connect with us all month long. Thanks, Internet. We owe you one.

This month in The List, we give you a glimpse of what's going on in the kitchen at Mike Shannon's downtown – and it’s far more than grilled steaks and seafood (page 43). Want to know how this talented kitchen staff makes sure they are biking, running and lifting as they fry, sear and simmer?

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, April 26 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m.

Want more recommendations on what to drink and where to find it? Every Friday, check out SauceMagazine.com/blog, where we toast everyone’s favorite day of the week with our column, Drink This Weekend Edition. This month, Sauce senior staff writer Ligaya Figueras will show you how to get far more than a caffeine fix at this year’s Maplewood Coffee Crawl (April 5), where to watch local mixologists battle it out using a liquor that’s made in MO. (April 12), what to buy to wow everyone at your next cocktail party without ever picking up a shaker (April 19) and when you can enjoy a wine-lovers’ paradise (April 26).

facebook.com/saucemagazine | twitter.com/saucemag | pinterest.com/saucemagazine | instagram.com/saucemag

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Photo by CARMEN TROESSER

Orange shrub at Cielo Restaurant & Bar

If you couldn’t tell from the cover that our favorite way to celebrate the arrival of patio season is with a great drink, then this year’s rendition of The List, starting on page 38, is sure to convince you. After you flip through the collection of our favorite things, head to SauceMagazine. com/blog, where you’ll learn how to enjoy some of today’s best bar trends for yourself. You’ll find instruction on how to smoke ice like the folks behind the bar at Boogaloo (page 42), get the recipe for the coolest DIY cocktail ingredient since bitters (page 41) and even snag recommendations on what to order off Three Kings Pub’s crazy impressive cellar list from one of the three kings himself (page 46).

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EAT THIS

The BIG MUDDY sandwich at SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE has swept us off our feet. Hunks of brisket and slivers of house-smoked sausage are tender, succulent, and dressed to kill in fiery horseradish and sweet barbecue sauces. Did we Photo by Carmen troesser

mention that the sausage is made at local butcher shop G&W? Oh Big Muddy, you had us at hello.

Sugarfire Smoke house • 9200 Olive Blvd., Olivette • 314.997.2301 • sugarfiresmokehouse.com

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make this There’s a reason they call ‘em spring rolls. As the weather warms, our palates cool, trading in creamy soups and hearty braises for lighter, fresher fare. The fact that this sweet-and-spicy version of the no-bake app takes less than 30 minutes to make is just a bonus. Peel half of a jicama and cut into matchsticks. Place in a colander set over a towel, toss with salt and let sit for 1 hour. Cut 1 small red bell pepper, 1 Champagne mango and 1 carrot into matchsticks. Set aside. Remove the tails from 16 cooked medium shrimp and toss with the juice of 1 lime. Heat a wide pot with an inch of water just until it’s hot enough to dip your finger in without burning. Remove from heat. Place a spring roll wrapper in the hot water until it’s flimsy, 15 to 20 seconds. Carefully remove it with your fingers and flatten it onto a damp cutting board. Arrange 3 cilantro leaves, 6 mint leaves and 2 shrimp in the bottom third of the wrapper. Top with 2 red pepper matchsticks, 2 jicama matchsticks, 2 carrot matchsticks, 6 mango matchsticks and 1 very thin slice of red Serrano pepper. Roll from the bottom just until you cover the filling. Fold in the sides and roll the whole thing up and over the top to seal. Repeat with 7 more wrappers, then dip to your heart’s desire!

Blue Dragon Vietnamese Spring Roll Wrappers, available at Straub’s and other area grocers

For a quick and easy dipping sauce

photo by carmen troesser

Add 1∕8 cup of crushed roasted, salted peanuts and the juice of half a lime to ¼ cup of San-J Mildly Spicy Marinade & Dipping Thai Peanut Sauce, available at Straub’s and other area grocers.

Straub’s, 8282 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.2123, straubs.com

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A Seat at the Bar Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Find out who's mixing this up on page 23.

glenn bardgett

cory king

The Seelbach Cocktail is a delicious blend of bourbon (a Ted favorite), Champagne (a Jamie favorite) and a healthy dose of bitters. A seemingly odd combination, this signature drink of the Seelbach Hotel in Louisville, Ky., has become our brunch staple. Created in 1917, its recipe was a well-kept secret until it was published 80 years later in New Classic Cocktails. Now that the secret’s out, we can all enjoy this marriage of masculine and feminine spirits. Combine 1 oz. Old Forester bourbon, ½ oz. Cointreau, 7 dashes each Angostura and Peychaud bitters in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake briefly and strain into a Champagne flute.

Top with Champagne and garnish with a flamed orange peel. — Ted and Jamie Kilgore, USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House (opening soon)

On a recent trip to Farmington, Mo., we stopped at 12 West Bar and Grill. I was ecstatic to find a 2005 Trimbach Gewürztraminer on the wine list. This is not only one of my favorite grapes, but one of my favorite wineries, founded in the Alsace region of eastern France in 1626. When the server had no idea what I was ordering, I told her to bring an extra glass with the bottle and sit down. I turned over the menu and drew a map of France, explaining that this gorgeously dry and enormously flavorful and fragrant white would go with absolutely anything on the menu.

Her manager soon came over and grabbed a glass as well. — Glenn Bardgett, member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

Lately, I’ve been falling back in love with the classic saison, an Old World style of beer from the Wallonia region of Belgium.

Brewed in early winter by farmers to serve to their les saisonniers (seasonal workers) when they began work again the following summer, this style has evolved from 3- to 5-percent ABV to the 5- to 8-percent ABV of today. It’s often brewed with unusual malts, sometimes brewed with spices and always brewed to be refreshing.

Seek out the Brasserie Dupont Saison Vielle Provision, Brasserie Blaugies Saison d’Epeautre and Brasserie de Cazeau Saison for some amazing examples. – Cory King, Certified Cicerone, head brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales and founder of Side Project Brewing

photo by jonathan gayman; illustrations by vidhya nagarajan

ted and jamie kilgore

Dinner and a movie all in one place?

That’s what downtown’s new MX Movies does best. Luxurious theaters playing all the MX Movies latest flicks mean the hard part is picking your movie, not your seat. Each two-seat pod is decked out with a digital ordering tablet and swing out trays, making it easy to dine on truffle-salted popcorn, braised beef or Crown Candy chocolate. Theater-wide stadium seating makes every seat great with tons of legroom, but to avoid the occasional head in front of the screen from a passing waiter or waitress, try the center pods in row G of the mid-size theater. — Michelle Volansky

Best Seat

MX Movies, 618 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.2994, mxstlmovies.com April 2013

Herbaceous Salers Gentiane is picking up steam. Although only recently appearing behind bars in the U.S., this muted yellow liqueur made of gentian root and white wine has held court with other French aperitifs since the 19th century. When sipped solo and sans ice, Salers runs a bit wild, but its bold, bittersweet flavor hits the mark when gunned with bubbly club soda over rocks and garnished with an orange twist.

For a sophisticated spin, stir up a white Negroni using equal parts London Dry-style gin, Punt e Mes and this gentian gem, adding a lemon twist if you wish. Look for Salers at well-stocked area liquor stores.

Approximately $20.

– Ligaya Figueras

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A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now by stacy schultz

Gateway Green

eating your curds and whey

Now that kale has our palates singing the praises of bitter greens, look for mustard greens to make a play for its prominent place on menus. Wilted into goose sugo tagliatelle at Five Bistro, accompanying carameledged pork cheeks at Home Wine Kitchen, or sitting pretty beneath sous vide porchetta di testa at Vino Nadoz and rainbow trout at Harvest, these spicy, pungent leaves may even take us beyond new-wave Caesar salads.

Cheese curds – the semisolid portion of coagulated milk that gets separated from the liquid (whey) during cheese making – are the new finger food. At Five Star Burgers, you can nibble these mozzarella sticks-comefrench fries with your burger, atop tomato soup or as a curly-cued bar snack. At Dressel’s Public House, you can dip ‘em into a smoked tomato sauce, and you can munch on Marcoot Creamery’s garlic-and-herb variety with a frothy brew at Perennial Artisan Ales.

From whipped-lardo challah with bacon charoset at The Pass & Provisions in Houston to everything on the menu at Brooklyn’s Montreal-inspired Mile End Deli, classic Jewish deli fare is seeing an artisanal second coming. Could this trend grace STL tables? The gourmet Passover seder Anthony Devoti held at Five Bistro last month gives at least one lox-loving Jew hope.

THAI FOOD RISING

GIL DING T HE GO AT

Just as GQ’s Alan Richman named D.C.’s Northern Thai gem Little Serow the Most Outstanding Restaurant of 2013, our own little outlier from up North opened its doors. At Fork & Stix in The Loop, Southern Thai standbys like pad thai and coconut curry play second fiddle to Northern specialties like pork bellyboasting Hung Lay Curry, lemongrass-laden sausage Sai Oua and the fantastic creamy Khao Soi soup. Here’s to less stir-fries and more funk.

fired up

The barbecue biz is on fire and newly opened Vernon’s BBQ, Hendricks BBQ, SugarFire Smoke House, Lampert’s BBQ, Wilson’s BBQ and Capitalist Pig have rib-lovers from St. Charles to Soulard licking their chops. The perk to opening in chilly temps? Pit masters can work out the kinks before kicking into high gear come prime barbecue season.

We’ve long seen goat’s milk used for fresh cheese and get turned into slightly sour desserts. But now the meat of this horn-rimmed roamer is slipping onto menus as well. For a special aptly titled The Goat Rodeo, Guerrilla Street Food braised a goat leg in palm sugar and Filipino lager before shredding it over jasmine rice, and showering it with marinated Napa cabbage, Sriracha cream sauce and scallions. Sidney Street Cafe’s Kevin Nashan turned the tough, strongly flavored flesh into porchetta, while both The Rustic Goat and Five Star Burgers have experimented with grinding it into a rich take on a burger.

THE NIGHT SHIFT The bracingly bitter Italian liqueur Fernet-Branca isn’t new behind the bar, but it is gaining a broader customer base. At one of the best family of restaurants in town, Fernet appears to be the nightcap of choice for Gerard Craft’s crew.

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Industry Sour at Taste Fernet Branca, Green Chartreuse, lime and sugar

"A little Fernet in a big glass."

— Chris Kelling, general manager, Niche

@bmox Fernet it and forget it. #ronpopeil #nightcap — Brian Moxey, executive chef, Pastaria April 2013

fork and stix Photo by CARMEN TROESSER

wish list: new jew food

Khao Soi soup

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hit list 1

2 New Restaurants to Try This Month

A Good Man is Hard to Find

2

360 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, 314.632.6754, entrestl.com/presents

Mission Taco Joint 6235 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, 314.932.5430, missiontacostl.com

good man is hard to find photos by jonathan gayman; tacos photo by carmen troesser

Pickled beet terrine John Perkins From left: Roasted Duck, Nopales and Cochinita Pibil Tacos

If you’ve ever had John Perkins’ food, you know that it is as creative as the ways he delivers it – from his Entre Underground dinners to his first chickenthemed pop-up, Le Coq, this

April 2013

past winter. So hurry up and snag a seat at his newest popup, a southern-comfort concept named after the classic Flannery O’Connor short story. Start with a basket of house-baked bread,

then bask in the supporting characters – from the pickled beet terrine with goat cheese and blood orange to the jarred sides of house-brined pickles, spiced nuts, sunchoke relish and chow-chow (a low-country mustard-based staple). When you finish off your entree with a blueberry buckle, order it topped with a scoop of buttermilk ice cream, a slightly sour foil to the sweet, juicy berries. This short story ends on Derby Day, so better crack it open soon.

From Adam and Jason Tilford, the busy brothers behind Milagro Modern Mexican, Barrister’s and Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen, comes this über casual ode to the taquerias dotting San Francisco’s Mission district. Seat yourself, then go with the a la carte tacos, wrapped in house-made tortillas and served with a bowl of onions, cilantro and hunks of lime for the squeezing. Brave souls should try the extra-fiery Nopales Taco (That’s Spanish for cactus.), while carnivores who can’t pass on pork belly will enjoy the crispy bits crumbled atop the tender Roasted Duck Tacos. The bar is in the creative and capable hands of Sanctuaria alum Joel Clark, who opted against an obvious tequila-heavy theme (There’s just one, solid margarita.) in favor of unique bottles like Blackwell Jamaican rum and Del Maguey Single Village mezcals. Sip apricot-heavy The Chaplinesque or place a pint glass under one of the 10 local taps.

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reviews

new and notable: the restaurant at the cheshire p. 19 nightlife: the fortune teller bar p. 23 cook’s books: french cookbooks p. 24 where to explore next: florissant p. 26

New and Notable: The Restaurant at The Cheshire

by Michael Renner • Photos by greg rannells

T

he conversation will go something like this: “Let’s go to The Resaurant.”

“Where?”

“At The Cheshire.”

“OK, but what’s it called” “The Restaurant at The Cheshire.”

At which point one of you, channeling Abbot and Costello’s “Who’s on First,” will scream, “THAT’S WHAT I’M ASKING!” Once it’s determined that the restaurant in question is indeed called, The Restaurant, the second conversation will be about the curious, confusing and chaotic parking situation. “I think those cones mean you’re not supposed to enter here,” and, “Seriously? I have to valet park and pay four bucks?”

The Restaurant at The Cheshire, 7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com

Inside, the conversation will focus on the stunning $12 million rehab of the fabled complex that now houses The Restaurant, Basso (an Italian-inspired gastropub downstairs) and The Market (a cafe and gourmet market). The space at The Restaurant is expansive, with four distinct dining areas that flow easily from front to back: a small front bar; a large, main dining room; a smaller, more casual area with a view of the open kitchen; and a back room suited for intimate gatherings, complete with doors and a ceiling draped with sexy, red sail-like material.

The décor is slick and modern with just enough rustic lodge ambiance, including a wood-burning stone fireplace held over from the original restaurant. It’s just how I’m going to design my winter cabin: dark and woody, masculine, warm with subdued lighting and stained glass windows. I’ll even install a smaller version of the transparent, at least 15-feet-tall temperaturecontrolled “cellar” that serves as the wall separating the front bar and main dining room (where you can watch servers climb a ladder to pluck bottles of wine).

During my visits, in the dead of winter, the dishes were of the stick-to-your-ribs variety. Traditional meets continental, with a few old-timers listed as

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review new and notable: the restaurant at the cheshire Missouri. Consisting of a leg and an airlinecut breast, the meat was flavorful, true to the nature of free-range hens, but the skin lacked that blistered crackle due to a heavy dousing of romesco. Underneath, a bed of risotto made with toasted barley had a more toothsome, satisfying chew than if made with traditional Arborio rice, but the winter vegetables mixed in were too finely chopped to be recognized, either in sight or flavor.

On the “wood grill” side of the menu, a herb-marinated hanger steak – grass-fed on south-central Missouri’s Rain Crow Ranch, sliced on the bias and generously napped with a savory reduction sauce – was basic and tasty enough, but it arrived at the table somewhere between warm and lukewarm.

Red wine-braised short ribs

“throw backs” from the original Cheshire restaurant, like prime rib with Yorkshire pudding and filet mignon. The main section of the menu is organized by cooking style: rotisserie, plancha (Spanish for griddle), smoker and wood grill. It was originally designed by Wil Fernandez-Cruz, who moved from New York City last year to serve as executive chef for The Restaurant when it opened in November with his wife, Lisa,

pastry chef for all three Cheshire properties.

By mid-January, Wil had left, followed a few weeks later by Lisa, both before my visits.

Now, executive chef Rex Hale splits his time between The Restaurant and 360, a property from the same developers.

From the large rotisserie box, there is duck and chicken. I opted for the latter bird, from Ben Roberts Heritage Poultry in mid-

Parts of the menu change at least monthly depending on availability of certain products, which is why I pounced on the smoked pork loin not offered on a previous visit: thick slices of glistening, juicy smoked loin (also from Rain Crow Ranch); a mound of real grits, creamy and substantial; a hardy heap of kale, tender and wilted.

Next to the pork sat the perfect sweettart accompaniment: a rich and complex paste-like reduction made from small-batch balsamic vinegar from – of all places – Cody, Neb. The beef short ribs sit in the section of the menu dedicated to the old Cheshire days, but back then, mashed potatoes would have been the most likely starch on the plate. Today, heavy taters give way to light whipped parsnips, whose spicy zing and airy texture added more dimension than any mere tuber could. The meat, a tough cut to begin with, was rendered meltingly tender from its long braise in a red wine-based liquid. Whole, young roasted carrots, bits of their green tops still intact, shallots and leeks rounded out this winter-worthy dish.

Beforehand, a warming butternut squash soup topped with a dollop of maple creme fraiche proved creamy, subtle and not too sweet. Spiced nuts provided a crunchy kick.

There seem to be different definitions of “chocolate soufflé cake.” What I expected to be light and set in the middle was more akin to lava cake with melting hot chocolate oozing from within upon breaking the crust. Rarely is there anything wrong with a spoonful of hot, melting, high-quality chocolate and chocolate cake. But it should be labeled as such. A scoop of house-made sun-dried cherry ice cream lacked any flavor other than sweet cream – a shame, since the tartness would have cut the intense chocolate beautifully. I’ll lobby for the Meyer lemon tart to remain on the menu, however. With its poppy-seed crust, a scoop of sorbet made from St. Germain elderflower liqueur and segments of grapefruit, blood orange and tangerine perched on top, it was a blast of summer on a cold night.

Service during my visits was attentive, helpful and competent, with a lag or two.

I don’t know what The Restaurant was like before the big chef shake-up, so I can’t comment on what’s changed since. But despite the few missteps during my visits (and that whole parking thing), many aspects should redefine this restaurant for St. Louisans expecting the old Cheshire.

A renewed focus on wine service is one. Under the stewardship of Patricia Wamhoff, there are about 2,000 bottles of wine, all served at the proper temperature – a detail far too many good restaurants ignore. Another is a menu that respects the past while reflecting current trends and tastes. And in case those throwbacks aren’t enough of a blast from The Cheshire’s past, after dinner, you could mosey across the parking lot for a nightcap at the cozy Fox & Hounds Tavern. But that’s a whole other conversation.

AT A GLANCE : the restaurant at the cheshire Where The Restaurant at The Cheshire, 7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com

Don’t Miss Dishes Winter green salad, red wine-braised short ribs, Meyer lemon tart

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Vibe Rustic lodge with contemporary flashes and a cool wine wall. It can get boisterous, so snag a table near the fireplace for romance.

Entree Prices $18 to $38

When Dinner: Tue. to Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 5 to 9 p.m.

Brunch: Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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review nightlife: The Fortune Teller bar

Nightlife: The Fortune Teller Bar

by Matt berkley • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

T

he screen door slams behind me on a chilly Friday night, and I see a girl in full-on Goth mode huddled over an old, converted barrel table that looks like it could still hand out splinters. Entranced in a worn paperback, she doesn’t look up as she takes a pull off a bottle of beer with an unfamiliar label. It’s dark inside, as it should be.

This little-known Cherokee Street den of booze and black magic was shuttered in the 1990s, presumably never to be spoken of again. Retreating into the floorboards, the magic sat dormant – cloaked in a string of failed commercial ventures. Darkness, though, has a tendency to reemerge.

Still marked “Hippodrome” in the aged tile step under the creaking screen door, The Fortune Teller Bar has quietly stolen back its roots. More than ever, this bar is an odd place to be. But the recent excavation and revival of The Fortune Teller under the care of coowners Kristin Dennis, Matt Thenhaus and Sam Coffey is something special. Honestly, these people could write a how-to for the new generation of upscale dive bar proprietors.

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Ingenious little cocktails can be a little weak at times, but for the most part are just as they should be. The fact that the ownership triumvirate The Fortune cut their teeth behind Teller Bar the mahogany at bars 2635 Cherokee St., St. like Schlafly and The Louis, 314.776.2337, Royale is not lost in the thefortunetellerbar.com menu, which caters to the tastes of discerning customers with lesser-known liquor brands paired with house-made mixers. A standout in the seasonally rotating cocktail menu is the house Manhattan, a not overly sweet mixture of local J.J. Neukomm whiskey and Byrrh Grand QuinQuina, topped with a dark cherry that soaks up all that whiskey for a strong finish to the fine cocktail. For something more original, I’d suggest the Alpine Daisy or the Compte. The former is a delightful smattering of Old Tom gin with fresh lemon, grenadine, a hit of Salers Aperitif Gentiane and soda. The Compte (totally breaking with the off-brand bathtub gin speakeasy trend) is a great success in its odd mix of Maker’s Mark bourbon with Dewar’s, Green Chartreuse, sugar and fresh lemon. It reminded me of a Mike’s Hard While old-timey from the tin pressed ceiling Lemonade, only this actually tasted good. down to the herd of mounted animals that adorn the walls, this place has a vibrancy An outstanding selection of beers represents the and modern sense behind it. Things weren’t best of the local breweries – 4 Hands, Civil Life just placed here and there. Skulls sit in the – as well as some solid international players (see window, but you have to look twice to find Wernesgrüner Pils). About 30 types of bottled them. A clever and ominous little portrait beer are offered, along with eight drafts that, of Rasputin glares out from a wall above along with the ubiquitous Stag, include great one table; a stuffed fox frozen in mid-step new crafts like Urban Chestnut’s Hop Switch, creeps over another; and behind a wooden a refreshing and lightly fruity cousin beer to screen sits a fortune teller, who, for a little the brewery’s Zwickel. There are a handful of tip money, will draw tarot cards. Instead of a wines, such as a Monte Antico Super Tuscan or kitschy, fly-by-night hipster bar haphazardly the spiced Glühwein, but these were ignored by thrown together and just as easily forgotten, a crowd more interested in the hard stuff. Food this is a quirky and classy re-imagination of is primarily in the form of meat-and-cheese a dark, back-alley saloon. And when they’re boards, fortified with bites procured from local not dabbling in the black arts, the folks at this farmers and bakeries. place sling damn fine cocktails.

The patrons are pulled from the ranks of the young, hip, chic crowd that inhabits this neck of town. The weekend comes, and the Teller becomes the mecca for Cherokee locals who dart in and out of the bar, ducking into the underground comedy club next door or lounging out front for a smoke on a torn-out car seat.

Billed as an approachable neighborhood haunt, The Fortune Teller is unmistakably highbrow in its stock of stellar hooch. The service is great. The crowd is eccentric as hell and loving every inch of this place. The Cherokee neighborhood has reclaimed an authentic clubhouse in this saloon for a new generation of believers.

order it: The Fortune Teller Bar

The Compte is a tart little number that combines good ol’ Maker’s Mark with Dewar’s, Green Chartreuse, sugar and fresh lemon.

Old Tom (gin) makes a few friends in the Alpine Daisy, from pucker-perfect lemons and ruby-red grenadine to the boldest bitter to ride into town: Salers Gentiane.

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review Cook’s books: french cookbooks

French Cooking Decoded Many consider French technique to be the root of all great cooking. Need to brush up on your confit and brunoise? Check out these new titles from the bistro to the brasserie, and even Bocuse for everything you need to know to master mighty French fare. Join us every Tuesday at SauceMagazine.com/blog as we cook and reveal recipes from the books of these culinary mavens this month. Then, enter to win a copy of their cookbooks to add to your own collection.

Patisserie: Mastering the Fundamentals of French Pastry by Christophe Felder

Lunch in Provence by Rachel McKenna and Jean-André Charial

French Brasserie Cookbook: The Heart of French Home Cooking by Daniel Galmiche

French Bistro: Seasonal Recipes by Bertrand AuboyneauFrançois Simon

illustration by vidhya nagarajan

Expert pic: The French Menu Cookbook When looking for inspiration for the authentic French menu at Brasserie by Niche, executive chef Michael Petres can’t live without The French Menu Cookbook by Richard Olney. “Olney was the guy who famously said, ‘Good and honest cooking and good and honest French cooking are the same thing.’ There’s a theme of simplicity in this book. You’re not reading a book of French recipes; you’re being instilled with a sensibility on how the French approach food. The writing is so lucid; you can smell the food cooking in the fireplace as he writes about it.” Brasserie by Niche, 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com

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review tour: Florissant

where to explore next Florissant

If you can’t remember the last time you dined in Florissant, you’re overdue. With longstanding eateries and underrated newbies dotting Old Town and the strip malls along Highway 67, this city gives adventurous palates numerous reasons to head north. Locals might have told you to hit up Florissant City Diner for your short-order fill or Pearl Café for a Thai fix, but have you tried the caramel-bacon long john at Old Town Donuts or popped into De.lish for a sweet-and-salty cookie? Meet a few more fleurs of Florissant. Whichever of these doors you enter, we guarantee that service is attentive, folks are friendly and the bill doesn’t kill your pocketbook. – Ligaya Figueras

kaslik restaurant

N. Lindbergh Blvd., 314.972.8282 The Kaslik veggie platter.

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Photo by carmen troesser

Doors may have just opened at this dinky eastern Mediterranean restaurant, but the appetizer menu is far from commonplace.

Why pick between foul moudames, warek inab, makdous, picklehappy kabis and a spot-on spicy, oily Turkish salad when you can sample them all in the Kaslik veggie platter? If lunch must be carryout, let it be a lamb shish kebab, beef shawarma or falafel sandwich with just the right amount of tahini.

What Kaslik lacks in décor, it makes up for in the authenticity of its crazy-good, affordable food.

DeLeo’s Cafe & Deli

Hendel's Market Café & Piano Bar

Cajun Carbonara

Once a general store, this 140-year-old building houses the fanciest dining gem in historic downtown Florissant. Serving a decidedly older crowd, it’s the place to go for a dose of quaint fun. The piano bar is a draw on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, while a brick-lined patio – complete with a fish pond – beckons during warm weather. Steak, seafood and pasta are solid staples. Our musttry list includes the Pasta Fleurissant, Cajun Carbonara and Loaded Kale Salad.

599 Saint Denis St., 314.837.2304, hendelsrestaurant.com

Just over a year old, DeLeo’s offers the kind of bright atmosphere, contemporary décor and spacious seating you don’t expect from a strip mall cafe.

The broad menu of sandwiches, wraps, salads and soups are accessible to even the pickiest eaters. Go for the Double Feature and order half of the signature sandwich, Big Reuboni, and a bowl of one of eight rotating from-scratch soups like the vegan Moroccan Lentil Bisque, which impressed for its heft and flavor.

Don’t leave without dropping a buck for DeLeo’s soon-to-befamous chocolate chip cookie.

2782 N. US Hwy. 67 (Lindbergh Blvd.), 314.839.3880, deleosdeli.com

photos by carmen troesser

In business for nearly six decades, this family-owned restaurant still packs the house. Yet with service this fast, the wait is still short. Nods go to recent seasonal, weekends-only specials – ceviche tostadas, carnitas and posole rojo – and to the moist masa on house-made tamales. How many times will your server refill the tortilla basket and bowls of green (our pick) and red salsa? We finally gave up counting.

901 N. Lindbergh Blvd., 314.838.3500, dineruiz.com

Yacovelli’s Restaurant You can laugh at the big ol’ “Yac’s” sign (readable driving 65 miles per hour eastbound on I-270) or at the foyer that feels more like a funeral parlor, but the joke is on you if you pass up the Sundaysonly, all-you-can-eat, family-style fried chicken dinner, priced at a mere $14. Prime rib is the specialty, but did you know those beef, spinach and feta ravioli are made in-house? Founded in 1919, still family-owned and calling Dunn Road home since 1967, Yacovelli’s isn’t a Florissant founding father, but it may as well be.

Vegan Moroccan Lentil Bisque

Max’s Meats & Deli Gummy bearfilled sausage April 2013

House-made tamales

Ruiz Mexican

407 Dunn Road, 314.839.1000, yacovellis.com

Sausage is king at Max’s (Gummy bear-filled sausage – who knew?), but this mom-andpop butcher shop can fill your fridge with custom cuts of any fresh meat. Max’s takes the notion of buying in bulk to hoarding-for-the-Apocalypse heights with its meat variety packages that enable you to stock up on fresh chuck roast, chicken, ground beef, bacon, pork chops, shoulder roast, sirloin steak and more at bargain prices. Oh, and snag a package of house-made beef jerky. Better yet, grab all four flavors.

432 Howdershell Road, 314.831.6164 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

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what in the world: bamboo shoots p. 29 vegetize it: caesar salad p. 30 one ingredient, 3 ways: leeks p. 32 by popular demand: mushroom ravioli p. 34

what in the world are

bamboo shoots?

Until recently, Americans could only experience this member of the grass family as a commercially canned product. But now that farmers in the Pacific Northwest – and even here in Missouri – are growing bamboo, we can finally experience the difference in tenderness and delicate artichoke heart-esque flavor that fresh bamboo shoots lend.

Use it: Once the outer leaves are peeled away, the tasty inner leaves can be cut and boiled for 20 minutes for use in salads, soups, stir-fries and braises. Try marinating bamboo shoots in a combination of rice wine vinegar, sesame oil and soy sauce, or pickling them for a charcuterie plate.

Whole, unpeeled shoots can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Buy it: Ozark Forest Mushrooms booth at Schlafly Farmers Market, 314.531.9935, ozarkforest.com

photo by greg rannells

Braised Bamboo Shoots with Bell Pepper 4 Servings as a Side Dish April 2013

6 canes fresh bamboo shoots (about 2 cups when peeled and cut into slices) ½ cup vegetable stock 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. rice wine 1 tsp. brown sugar 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 Tbsp. freshly grated ginger Half of a medium red bell pepper, seeded, stemmed and sliced Half of a medium yellow bell pepper, seeded, stemmed and sliced 2 Thai chile peppers, seeded, stemmed and minced Sesame oil to finish Rice for serving • To prepare the bamboo: Peel away the outer leaves until the palecolored inner layers are exposed. Trim away any fibrous tissue at the base.

Slice each shoot in half lengthwise, then in half again, so you have 4 long strips for each shoot.

Cut each strip into 1-inch pieces and set aside.

• In a small bowl, combine the stock, soy sauce, rice wine and brown sugar.

Set sauce aside.

• In a wok, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Add the ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds.

Add the bamboo shoots, bell pepper slices and Thai chile peppers and stir-fry for 1 minute longer.

• Add the sauce mixture to the wok and cook, stirring frequently, until the bamboo shoots have softened, about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and drizzle with sesame oil.

• Serve with rice.

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home cooking Vegetize it: caesar salad

A Salad Fit For an Emperor BY beth styles • Photos by Carmen Troesser

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L

ike so many dishes that have become staples in international cuisine, the history of the Caesar salad – and who first brought it to life – isn’t 100-percent clear.

The most widely accepted story circles around Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant who lived in San Diego and opened a restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico during Prohibition. According to his daughter, Cardini created the salad on a particularly busy night when supplies had run out.

In the many decades since that fortuitous night, chefs, home cooks and foodies the world over have adapted the classic into too many variations to count, but the original recipe, interestingly enough, didn’t even use the anchovies that are standard in today’s version. So, technically, this vegetarian could have just told you to buy some vegetarian Worcestershire, leave out the little fish and call it a day. But that’d be too easy.

Instead, I’m going to put you to work, starting with making your own croutons, which, if you haven’t done so already, couldn’t be simpler.

And once you taste a fresh batch from the oven, you won’t even glance at the bagged variety again, especially since this DIY project is the perfect way to use up that dayold bread currently drying out on

your counter. As for the dressing, I chose to go with the creamy, mayonnaise-based variety to help balance the bitterness of the kale.

(Yes, the nutrient-packed green is in here … and it’s raw … and you’ll like it.) And pinch-hitting for the anchovies will be another edible from the murky waters below: kombu. This dried Japanese seaweed supplies that force of fishy flavor that vegetarians and carnivores come to expect with a Caesar salad.

Meat-a-tarians can just close their eyes and pretend it’s the real deal.

kale “Caesar” Salad 4 to 6 Servings FOR THE CROUTONS: 8 oz. day-old sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch cubes and crust removed ½ Tbsp. half-cracked black peppercorns 2 Tbsp. olive oil Pinch salt FOR THE DRESSING: 1 sheet kombu seaweed*, rinsed with cold water for 30 seconds and then roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce Juice of half a lemon ¾ cup light mayonnaise ¹∕³ cup grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

April 2013

FOR THE GREENS: 1 head romaine lettuce, leaves torn 1 bunch kale, stemmed and roughly chopped Shaved Parmesan cheese for garnish • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• First, make the croutons: In a large bowl, combine the sourdough cubes, half-cracked peppercorns, olive oil and salt, making sure all of the bread is evenly coated. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until browned, turning halfway through cooking.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

• Meanwhile, make the dressing: Place the seaweed, garlic, mustard, Worchestershire, lemon juice, mayonnaise and ¹∕³ cup of grated Parmesan in a blender.

Blend until the seaweed pieces are finely chopped.

• Remove the bowl from the blender base and place it in the refrigerator until ready to use.

• In a large bowl, combine the romaine and kale.

• Just before serving, add the dressing to taste, season with salt and pepper, and gently toss.

Top with Parmesan shavings and black-pepper croutons. * Available at Whole Foods, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, 314.968.7744, wholefoodsmarket.com

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home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: Leeks

Falling in Love with Leeks

By Dee Ryan | Photos by Greg Rannells

Cock-a-Leekie Soup In a large pot, add 1 chopped parsnip, 1 chopped carrot, 2 chopped celery stalks with their leaves, 2 bay leaves and 2 quarts chicken stock.

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add 2 bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs to the pot and return to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer on low for 30 minutes. Remove chicken to a bowl to cool. Remove bay leaves. Add 4 leeks (sliced into ½-inch thick half-rings), ½ cup uncooked pearled barley, 1½ teaspoons curry powder, 1 teaspoon allspice and 1 teaspoon salt to the broth and simmer until leeks are soft, 30 to 40 minutes. Skin and de-bone the chicken and chop into small pieces. When the leeks are soft, add meat and 1 cup pitted, quartered prunes to the soup. Simmer until prunes are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, and season with salt and pepper.

Divide among 4 to 6 bowls and serve with hearty bread.

T

hat scallion on steroids you spotted at the market is actually a leek – a member of the onion and garlic family that’s milder in flavor than its piquant peers.

Leeks can have a bit of a reedy texture, so look for smaller stalks, whose creamy white centers are über tender. Roasted, braised, creamed or frizzled, these sweetly flavored veggies are the perfect way to celebrate spring’s long-awaited arrival.

Salmon and Creamed Leeks Heat 1½ tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Saute 6 to 7 leeks (sliced diagonally) until they begin to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and ¼ cup heavy cream. When the cream begins to bubble, stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly chopped dill and remove from heat. Stir in 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 3 tablespoons dry vermouth, and set aside. In another skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Season 2 3- to 4-ounce skin-on salmon filets with salt and pepper.

Place filets skin-side down in the skillet and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then flip. Cook until they reach desired doneness, 2 to 3 more minutes. Divide creamed leeks between 2 plates and place salmon on top. Garnish with ¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds and serve with lemon slices.

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To prepare leeks, trim the root end and discard it. Cut off the dark green parts and discard (or rinse and save for a stock). Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and place them in a bowl of cold water. Swish, then let sit as the dirt and grit settle at the bottom of the bowl. Lift leeks out of the bowl and into a colander. Rinse well under cold water.

Pasta Carbonara with Leeks and Lemon Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Saute ½ pound pancetta in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Add 4 to 5 leeks (sliced into ½-inch thick half-rings) and saute until they begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and saute for 1 minute.

Remove from heat. Add ¾ pound of uncooked pasta to boiling water and cook according to package instructions.

In a large bowl, whisk together 2 eggs, ¹∕³ cup freshly grated Parmesan, 1 tablespoon lemon zest and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Whisk in ¼ cup of pasta cooking water. Drain pasta and toss into egg mixture, along with pancetta-leek mixture.

Season with pepper, divide among 4 bowls and garnish with Parmesan and ¼ cup freshly chopped parsley.

April 2013

April 2013

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home cooking

By Popular Demand: mushroom ravioli

By Popular Demand I Fratellini's Mushroom Ravioli Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you'd do just about anything to make at home? Email us at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe By Popular Demand.

I Fratellini, 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.7901, ifratellini.com

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Mushroom Ravioli Courtesy of I Fratellini’s Ny Vongsaly 6 Servings

Photo by carmen troesser

Olive oil Half of a medium onion, peeled and diced 3 lbs. assorted button, portobello, shiitake and oyster mushrooms, sliced 2 Tbsp. freshly chopped thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste ½ cup ricotta cheese (preferably homemade) ½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 12 fresh pasta sheets, cut into 3½-inch squares ½ lb. butter 2 Tbsp. freshly chopped sage 1 cup vegetable stock

April 2013

• First, make the filling: Coat a large skillet with olive oil set over medium-high heat. Add the onions and saute until golden brown. Add the mushrooms and saute until their liquid bubbles.

Season with fresh thyme, salt and pepper.

Transfer to a colander and drain, pressing gently to remove all liquid. Place ½ cup of mushrooms in a bowl and set aside. Place the rest of the mushrooms in a medium-size bowl for the filling, and stir in the ricotta and Parmigiano Reggiano. Set the filling aside.

• Next, fill the pasta: Lay out the pasta squares on a clean work surface, adding a touch of semolina or all-purpose flour if they begin to stick. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling into the center of each square. Rub warm water on two adjacent sides of each square. Fold the squares into triangles and seal.

• Now, make the sage-brown butter sauce: Cook the butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat. When it starts to bubble, skim the foam off the top and reduce the heat to low. Let simmer until the butter starts to smoke and turn brown, about 20 minutes.

• Remove the pan from heat and very slowly and gently stir in the sage. Once the sage is fully incorporated, stir in the stock. Remove from heat and keep warm, or keep over very low heat.

• Fill a pot with water and 1 tablespoon of salt, and set over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil.

Working in batches if necessary, add the ravioli to the water. When the pasta floats to the top, remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

• Add the reserved sauteed mushrooms and the pasta to the pan with the sage-brown butter sauce and toss with the sauce.

• Serve immediately. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

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THE

LIST the people, places, dishes and drinks we love by julie cohen, ligaya figueras, kellie hynes, byron kerman, meera nagarajan and stacy schultz

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fresh and citrusy

crisp

Tacos al Pastor Taqueria El Bronco, 2817 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.762.0691

caramelized, fatty pork

sweet piquant and peppery

tropical-tart pineapple

smoky

photo by greg rannells

April 2013

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No-frills, fluffy, spongy, quarter-of-an-inch-thick, perfectly browned cakes.

Pancake Nirvana Boardwalk Cafe, 600 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0013, boardwalkcafestl.com

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Flapjacks. Hotcakes. Pancakes. Call them what you will, but a short (or tall) stack of these saucers of satisfaction will make you smile any time of day. Go on, do what you really wanna do: Buddy-the-Elf these bad boys and double your syrup pour. — J.C.

April 2013

Photo by jonathan gayman

The buttermilk in the recipe makes the pancakes just a tad tart instead of excessively sweet.

Move Over, Bitters Cielo Restaurant & Bar, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.2105, cielostlouis.com Acid plus sugar plus a flavoring agent like a fruit, herb or vegetable. That’s the basic formula for concocting a shrub – a sweet yet tart syrup that’s popping up in your martini glass (even if you don’t know it yet). Over the course of the last year, Cielo bar manager Cory Cuff has cornered the market on this trendy simple syrup, preparing shrubs of every flavor and color like cucumber-lime, raspberryrose-thyme, even balsamic-fig. Stop by Cielo and you can taste Cuff’s shrubs in the Unusual Margarita and Stealing Alper’s Hooch, or try them as solo sippers in a shrub flight.

Want to make homemade shrubs your new DIY project?

Head to SauceMagazine.com/recipe.php to get started with Cuff’s recipe for an orange shrub. – L.F.

ben poremba photo by greg rannells; shrubs photo by carmen troesser; pugsley photos by jonathan gayman

Ben Poremba The area formerly known as McRee Town may still be gritty, but this newly crowned Botanical Heights Neighborhood is growing. So much so, in fact, that it’s become a place where families sign up to drop their 3-year-olds off at the City Garden Montessori School when the kid is still in-utero.

Yet if the development of Washington Avenue in the early 2000s taught us anything, it’s that no matter how fast you build it, until there are good food options, they won’t necessarily come.

Enter Ben Poremba.

Last year, the co-owner of South City salumeria Salume Beddu made a risky decision: to open his wine bar, Olio, in an abandoned gas station in the still-struggling neighborhood and to craft his fine-dining restaurant, Elaia, in the old house next door.

And just like that, the chef and owner added “urban renewalist” to his already impressive resume.

April 2013

“You couldn’t ask for a better guy to be involved,” said Chris Hulse, Poremba’s landlord and principal of development services at Urban Improvement Construction (UIC), the firm working to revive the area. “[Olio and Elaia] have had a huge impact on the neighborhood. I don’t think I would have had the cajones to put something like that in. It took a long time to do the project, and Ben was creative and patient and perfect.”

But Poremba wasn’t finished. Three months after Elaia and Olio set up shop, Poremba worked with renowned pastry chef Simone Faure to debut her highend French patisserie, Chouquette, just a few feet away. “Something like Chouquette could exist in an area like Clayton, no problem.

Here in the city, here in McRee Town, it’s not so obvious,” Faure noted.

“There’s people who can see things for what they can be, then there’s Ben Poremba. Ben is an extreme visionary.” — J.C.

Better Bodega Gustine Market, 3150 Gustine Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5141, gustinemarket.com

From the outside, Gustine Market looks like an unassuming corner bodega tucked away in the Tower Grove South neighborhood. But inside, prepare yourself for a foodie oasis.

Vicky and Kurt Cummiskey opened the little market just over three years ago and have been delighting the neighborhood with their growing offerings ever since. In a city packed with huge food chains, a bodega is uncommon enough, but the Cummiskeys up the ante by stocking their shelves with boutique items like Kakao Chocolate, Dogtown and Shakespeare’s Pizza, Dad’s Cookies, Billy Goat Chips, Hautly Cheese, and the latest canned and bottled beer from STL’s best craft breweries. If a couple who takes pride in promoting local businesses doesn’t blow your hair back, the frequent free wine, beer and Champagne tastings might. (Or the adorable zip-locked baggies of Tootsie Roll Frooties sold next to the cash register. They get me every time.) — J.C.

Pugsley's tenth life Thurman Grill & Provisions, 4069 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8484, thurmangrill.com

When introducing a new paramour who happens to be a cat person to Thurman Grill & Provisions, don’t preface the bathroom art. Just wait. Your date’s reaction to the collage of Christmas cards papering the bathroom walls – each featuring a cat in a near-death situation – will reveal if you’re meant to be, for there’s nothing worse than a date who lacks a sense of humor. For 14 years, Harry Harrootunian, friend of Thurman’s owner Larry Weinles, photographed his cat, Pugsley, in a state of grave danger. Like the year poor little Pugsley was subbed in for a croquet ball. Or the time he was held at gunpoint with a turkey baster while trapped in a roasting pan. In 2004, Pugsley did pass on (naturally), but thanks to the commode at this corner spot, his furry legend will live on forever – or at least until wallpaper goes up. – J.C saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41

Fire and Ice Boogaloo, 7344 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.645.4803, boogalooswings.com

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Fire up the smoker but forget the meat. The bartenders at Boogaloo have given you a whole new reason to break out your Big Green Egg: smoked ice. It started this past fall when bartender Kyle Harlan filled a tray with water, set it in a wood-fired smoker and then froze it, using the apple-wood-smoked ice as the star ingredient in a cocktail. But with so many types of wood chips available and a lengthy list of mixed drinks that don’t mind some smoky flavor, Harlan and Boogaloo bar manager Justin Sampson figure that the air hasn’t cleared of smoked ice just yet. “The only limit is really your mind,” Sampson said. Order Harlan’s sweet-and-smoky concoction Cuban Cooler at the Maplewood bar, then take the tarp off your smoker and start playing with fire and ice at home. – L.F.

April 2013

Photo by greg rannells

Want to learn how to smoke your own ice? Visit saucemagazine.com/blog

Mommy’s Little Helper

sorghum photo by carmen troesser; mike shannon's photo by greg rannells

Sorghum

Hamburger Mary’s, 3037 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.533.6279, hamburgermarys.com/stlouis

Extract the juice from the cereal grass sorghum, reduce it, and you end up with a brown syrup that’s thinner and less sweet than molasses. Restaurants around town have shown that meat and sorghum go together like bees and honey, from Salt’s signature sorghum-lacquered duck to the pool of smoky sorghum gastrique that surrounded roast chicken at Niche. Last summer, Harvest chef-owner Nick Miller used the stylish sweetener in a mustard barbecue sauce to accompany sous vide rubbed pork steak, erstwhile chef Josh Galliano was using sorghum as a glaze for pork belly at his All-Star Chicken and Fish pop-up restaurant. Then there’s Farmhaus’ Sweet Sophie bourbon-barrel-aged sorghum syrup that sealed the deal this fall on its brioche French toast – whether served as a savory beginning to the meal when topped with foie gras or as a sweet ending to it when served with rhubarb jam and rhubarb ice cream. Got a hankering for a drizzle at home? Grab a bottle of Missouri sorghum from Sandhill Farm, sold at numerous independent grocery and specialty stores. — L.F.

Hamburger Mary’s is known for drag shows and karaoke nights. But before the disco ball spins, it’s also a great place for families.

Kids and burgers go together like mac-and-cheese (which is also on the menu and utterly amazing). Mary’s Angus and Kobe beef burgers are delicious and topped with everything from American cheese to pineapple to a red wine reduction sauce. Vegetarian? I heart the housemade black bean burger.

But the No. 1 reason to go with kids is the über-friendly servers.

They automatically bring an extra stack of napkins with the drink order. And point out the closest restroom. And speak to your children kindly and directly. At Mary’s, everyone is welcome.

Also, my 6-year-old dies for the sparkly red stiletto that holds the bill. Looks like the after-dark shows are in our future, too. – K.H.

The Fittest Cooks in Town Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood, 620 Market St., St. Louis, 314.421.1540, shannonsteak.com

April 2013

Since Mike Shannon’s informal fitness program began last year, there’s much more cooking in the kitchen than food. On the stationary bike, you might glimpse GM Matt Kruszynski cycling away during downtime or catch exec chef Nick Zotos (pictured) pedaling while simultaneously expediting orders.

Other employees are dissing a smoke break in favor of lunges, lifts, dips, push-ups and running – be it in-place or up and down a back stairwell while carrying a 45-pound weight. The SWAT – short for Shannon’s Workout of the Day – may just get bigger than P90X. But rest assured, diners: Your steak isn’t dripping with sweat, thanks to a system that monitors hand washing, a requisite at Shannon’s after any exercise session. What will you get when you visit the fittest restaurant team in STL? The Shannon’s staff agreed: Exercise begets happiness. Happy cooks make happy food. And smiling servers, stated one employee, are “nicer to people.” – L.F. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

Swedish Crumb Loaf Federhofer’s Bakery, 9005 Gravois Road, Affton, 314.832.5116, federhofersbakery.com

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Photo by greg rannells

The New York Times, a pot of coffee and the Swedish crumb loaf from Federhofer’s Bakery make for an exceptional Sunday morning. One slice leads to another, then waistline consciousness sets in. You compromise with just a sliver – or two, then three. How is it possible that you just consumed half the loaf? Almond paste gives this scrumptious cake the perfect hint of apple flavor, while the baked-in topping of pastry crumbs and dusting of confectioner’s sugar remind us just how addicted we are to the sweet things in life.

– L.F.

April 2013

10 Reasons to go to Sump Coffee Right Now Sump Coffee, 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com

The walls are alive Woofie’s Hot Dogs, 1919 Woodson Road, Overland, 314.426.6291

sump photos by greg rannells; woofie's photo by carmen troesser

1

It’s the only coffee shop in town that brews in the Kyoto cold-drip method, a Japanese process that can take up to 18 hours.

hypercritical of food and drink. We take that as a good sign.

3

5

The icon on the t-shirts, to-go cups and bags of beans.

Owner Scott Carey’s beard.

in February is like a CSA for coffee. For us, the first and third Tuesdays of the month (the day to pick up your bag of Sump’s beans from the shop) just got better.

6

4

2 It’s become a watering hole for chefs and bartenders who are April 2013

Scott Carey has begun roasting beans in the back of the store ... and they’re awesome.

You can get ‘em brewed in your cup or buy them by the bag.

Wanna know how to brew the perfect pour over at home?

Carey will tell you and send you off with instructions written on a napkin.

7

The Sump Coffee Club that launched

coffee shop – and they’re packed.

9 The hand-selected playlist can include artists like The Buena Vista Social Club, Peaches, Awesome Snakes, The Beastie Boys and Kanye West.

10 8 Carey has teamed up with the roaming cooks of Kitchen Kulture to hold popup brunches at the

Cream and sugar are only available upon request. This coffee’s so good, you won’t need them.

– M.N.

On the walls of Woofie’s Hot Dogs stand, can you guess what they gots? / More than a hundred local lights have signed their own head shots. / There’s Ulett, Pertzborn, Auble, Klose and right by the sport peppers, / you’ll find Randy Karraker and grinning Zip Rzeppa. / Here’s a root beer to put your face in / right under Joe “Mama” Mason. / Why, Frank O. Pinion, there you are / a dog away from D’Marco Farr. / There’s Steve “Elvis” Davis and his bluster. / Did Herb Humphries take his link with mustard? / Radio Rich ain’t in no hurry; / he’s happy to hang with Dave Murray / I don’t mean to seem rude or harsh, / but I confuse Donn Johnson with Don Marsh. / Frank Cusumano, Hootz the Clown – / some of these folks still work in town. / The Woofie Dog and fries – let’s go get it! / Just remember: They do not take credit. – B.K.

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Derek Flieg Three Kings Public House, 6307 Delmar Blvd., U. City, 314.721.3355. threekingspub.com You say beer. We say Three Kings Pub. Co-owner and beverage director Derek Flieg has suds covered with 21 beers on tap, nearly 40 in bottles, four beer flights and a cellar list of 40-and-growing hard-to-find, domestic craft beers. Can’t decide? Flieg gave his top picks for each. — L.F.

Draft: “That’s tough because only five out of 21 are permanent. The Boulevard Tank 7 is one of my favorite beers. I have that on tap all the time.”

Bottled: “Founder’s Dry Hopped Pale Ale. I find

Founder’s to be one of the best breweries around. They hit the pale ale perfectly.”

Beer flight: “The Mix ’n Match.

You can get 6 ounces of any four beers on tap.”

Cellar list: “Goose Island Lolita (22-ounce bottle). It’s a great beer for people who aren’t huge beer drinkers, who aren’t into hops. It’s a Belgian-style ale that they age in wine barrels and infuse with raspberries, so it’s a cellar beer, too. You get the bold raspberry flavors and the beer, but the sour notes at the end make your mouth pucker.”

No. 1 Stunner

Owner Skip Steele passes out smoked chicken wings to some very patient customers.

a smoky souvenir Cocktails at Little Country Gentleman aren’t given names, just numbers. The tally of creations at the seven-month-old restaurant now stretches into the 20s, but it was No. 1 that left a lasting impression way back in week 1 (Just ask your server if you don’t see it on the menu.). Wild Turkey rye whiskey, Busnel Calvados VSOP cognac, Green Chartreuse, house-made sweet vermouth and Luxardo Fernet. Potent? Oh, yes. But the amber color is so pure, deep and elegant, the sweet and savory flavors so perfectly balanced, that we yield to temptation. Sip slowly, and it remains a complete gentleman. – L.F.

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Bogart’s Smokehouse, 1627 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.621.3107, bogartssmokehouse.com

One day while waiting to order a slab of Bogart’s famed ribs, we were bestowed with a free sample of smoked chicken wings.

Turns out the Soulard smokehouse’s ’cue crew hands these little gems out for free to patient patrons when the line gets long. Two bites, and we didn’t care how long we had to wait; we just wanted another … and another.

We’re helpless against the temptation of a smoked wing, but these charred beauties are truly special: tender, meaty and packed with smoky flavor. By the time we got to the front of the line, our order had changed.

When it comes to barbecue, pork may reign supreme; but don’t be surprised if these wings convert you. — M.N. April 2013

cocktail photo by jonathan gayman; bogart's photo by carmen troesser

Little Country Gentleman, 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com

Russian Comfort Food HandleBar, 4127 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.652.2212, handlebarstl.com It’s not every city that boasts a bicycle-themed tavern with a menu of authentic Russian comfort foods. And it’s not every Russian eatery that does up pelmeni like HandleBar does. Here, the traditional Russian dumplings are filled with pork, submerged in vegetable stock, and topped with sour cream and seasonal greens. The dough of the dumpling and the hearty pork filling make for a satisfying, chewy dish, but the rich stock and bright sour cream take it to another level. It’s so filling and delicious, you might start to wonder if your mother’s hiding in the tavern kitchen. – B.K.

kaldi's photo by greg rannells; pelmeni and pizza photos by carmen troesser

The Perfect Morning Routine Kaldi’s, 700 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.727.9955, kaldiscoffee.com

April 2013

Just a Slice La Pizza, 8137 Delmar Blvd., U. City, 314.725.1230, lapizzamenu.com It’s no surprise to find other people in the restaurant industry eating at La Pizza. The “pizzerati” know that this U. City hole-in-the-wall has what just might be the best pizza by the slice in town. The handtossed dough is made by owner Paul Bishop from a family recipe kept secret even from employees. It’s baked until it’s the perfect combination of chewy and crunchy and is adorned with a simple, fresh tomato sauce, 100-percent whole-milk mozzarella and the toppings of your choice. The slice at La Pizza isn’t just a reminder of what old-school East Coast pizza is; it’s far better than most of the competition – here or anywhere else. – B.K.

In theory, it’s easy to be romanced into a stroll around Forest Park when the sun is shining and the trail is lined with the buds of spring. But what’s really worth kicking the covers off on a sleepy Sunday morning? A great cup of coffee. And thanks to Kaldi’s new handbrew bar, I’m happy to slip on my sneakers to take a walk around (arguably) our city’s most beautiful park whether the Mercury climbs to 100 or drops all the way down to 20. The pot of gold at the end of my six-mile rainbow: a piping hot carafe of hand-brewed pour-over coffee and a cupful of yogurt parfait complete with granola, fresh mint, berries and a layer of spoonable, lickable, craveable citrus-vanilla yogurt.

The hour that follows is spent sipping, scooping and some of the finest people-watching in town. So that’s where you’ll find me just about every weekend – I’m the one in the corner with a dirty spoon, a sleepy dog and an empty mug. – S.S. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47

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by julie cohen | photos by greg rannells

When it comes to adding that final flourish to a meal, chefs love to grab a pinch of fleur de sel, a fragile crust of salt crystals that’s hand-harvested from French ponds and smells of violets and ocean breezes. And when they’re not in a Madame Bovary kind of mood? They have red alae crystals, black lava salt, even the pink granules from Australia’s Murray River at their fingertips.

Finishing salts can quickly add a pop of color, flavor and texture to almost any dish. The problem? These posh

April 2013

garnishes can be limiting for home cooks, both in taste and budget. Sometimes a splash of ocean air isn’t what that gorgeous filet needs – but rather a nose of red wine, the punch of ginger or a spicy jolt from Korean hot pepper paste.

With time, creativity and a little muscle, you can transform household salts into fancy finishers that will leave your guests impressed and your pantry well stocked with an arsenal of refined flavor.

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Some Advice Before You Spice Making spice mixtures at home is as simple as removing the moisture from whatever flavoring agents you plan to use. To do so, simply spread your salt mixture out in a thin, even layer on a parchment-lined dehydrator tray and dry it in a dehydrator at 105 degrees for the recipe’s specified time. Don’t have a dehydrator? Just spread the mixture in a thin, even layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and place it in a 170-degree oven (or your oven’s lowest setting). Once you have your dry mixture, it’s time to get grinding. And while we typically stay out of the great size debate, when it comes to crafting salts at home, there’s just no way around it: size matters. To create coarse crystals – perfect for rimming cocktail glasses, sprinkling over juicy tomatoes, and finishing meat and seafood hot off the grill – use a mortar and pestle to gently grind your mixture just until it resembles a flaky sea salt. For a salt that really sticks to the surface of your ingredients, ideal for dusting over popcorn kernels or homemade french fries, keep churning that pestle until your salt looks like fine sand. You can also pulse the mixture in a spice grinder or a clean coffee grinder.

Matcha Salt Approximately 1 cup

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of sea salt with 4 teaspoons of Matcha powder. Stir. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Use It Most people either love or hate Matcha, a grassy, slightly bitter Japanese powdered green tea.

Mixed with salt and sprinkled on eggs, tofu or brownies, however, the most ardent naysayers just might become addicts.

Meyer Lemon-Rosemary Salt Approximately 1 cup

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of sea or kosher salt with the juice of 1 lemon and the zest of 3 lemons.

Stir. Dehydrate the mixture for 2 hours, then grind to combine. Add 1 tablespoon of rosemary and grind to desired coarseness. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Use It Add a piney pucker to roasted chicken and potatoes, cold orzo salad or pastas bathed in olive oil or thick, creamy sauces.

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Roasted Garlic-Adobo Salt

Ginger-Lime Salt

Approximately 1¼ cups

Approximately 1¼ cups

Chop the tops from 2 garlic bulbs, and rub olive oil over the exposed cloves. Wrap the bulbs in foil, then roast them in a 400-degree oven until they turn soft, about 40 minutes. Squeeze the bulbs into a small bowl, letting the roasted garlic ooze out. Stir in 1 cup of sea or kosher salt and 1 tablespoon of adobo sauce*. Dehydrate the mixture for 2 hours, then grind to desired coarseness. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Use It After tasting the pungent garlic with hints of smoky chipotle, your store-bought garlic salt will quickly be replaced. Sprinkle this new staple on red beans and rice or carne asada tacos.

* This is the sauce inside a can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, available at area grocers

Pinot Noir-Thyme Salt Approximately 1 cup

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of sea or kosher salt with ¹∕³ cup of pinot noir (or red wine of your choice) and stir until it’s slushy.

Dehydrate the mixture for 12 hours, then grind to combine.

Add 1 tablespoon of thyme and grind to desired coarseness. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of sea or kosher salt with 8 teaspoons of freshly grated ginger, the juice of 1 lime and the zest of 2 limes. Stir.

Dehydrate the mixture for 3 hours, then grind to desired coarseness.

Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Use It If summer had a taste and smell (besides sunscreen), this would be it. Use it to rim margarita glasses or add a touch of tang to grilled shrimp and chicken.

Gochujang Salt Approximately 1 cup

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of sea or kosher salt with 1½ tablespoons of Gojuchang paste* and 1 tablespoon of hot water. Stir.

Dehydrate the mixture for 3½ hours, then grind to desired coarseness.

Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.

Use It The salt content tones down the paste’s spiciness while still showcasing that umami richness and an orangey red splash of color. Use it on anything you would normally add Sriracha to, particularly eggs, salsas and corn on the cob.

* Available at Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.9393

Use It By sprinkling this plum-hued seasoning over a fresh-from-the-coals steak or pork chop this summer, you can enjoy hints of steamy berries and warm spice without ever taking out the corkscrew.

April 2013

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stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

Feast of Nations

Spring Herb Sale

Centennial Wine Expo

April 2 – 6 to 8 p.m., various restaurants · 314.773.9090 iistl.org

April 20 – 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., First Congregational Church in Webster Groves 314.739.9925 wgherbs.org

April 26 – 6 to 9 p.m., Moulin Events 314.621.1996 centennialwineexpo. chirrpy.com

A bunch of St. Louis’ most exciting and exotic restaurants are joining forces for a new fundraiser for the International Institute. Aya Sofia, Cafe Natasha, Cleveland-Heath, HandleBar, House of India, Layla Lebanese Restaurant, Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant, Oishi Steakhouse and Sushi, Siete Luminarias, Yemanja Brasil and many other eateries will donate a chunk of their receipts on April 2 to support programs for immigrants and refugees in St. Louis. If you like the Festival of Nations, run by the same nonprofit, this is one event you should be sure to check out.

A Tasteful Affair April 7 – 2 to 5 p.m., The Four Seasons, St. Louis 314.652.3663 foodoutreach.org One of our favorite benefits is celebrating a silver anniversary this year. A Tasteful Affair, the gala to benefit Food Outreach, is turning 25 and the surfeit of classy restaurants that volunteer snacks for the party is inspiring. Donors munch at stations and enjoy passed hors d’oeuvres by the likes of Bissinger’s; Butler’s Pantry; Cielo; Cravings Restaurant, Bakery & Catering; Eleven Eleven Mississippi; The Fountain on Locust; Hank’s Cheesecakes; Home Wine Kitchen; Lester’s Sports Bar and Grill; Onesto Pizza & Trattoria; Pappy’s Smokehouse; Perennial Artisan Ales; Serendipity; The Social Affair; SubZero Vodka Bar and many more. It’s a blast, and it helps Food Outreach’s important efforts to fight hunger in our region.

April 2013

Did anyone at the Webster Groves Herb Society notice that it’s hosting the group’s big annual Spring Herb Sale on 4/20? (Puff, Puff, Pass.) Well, um, we did.

The 41st annual sale of (legal) Missourigrown herbs promises all kinds of varieties of basil, thyme, rosemary, lavender, fennel, mint, sage and more, ready for you to take home and love. Look for raffle prizes and special attention lavished on elderberry, the “herb of the year,” which may be used in jellies, jams, pie fillings, wines and simple syrups.

Earth Day Festival April 20 – 4 to 7 p.m., The Muny, Forest Park · 314.282.7533 stlouisearthday.org Love your mother at the big annual Earth Day festival in Forest Park, featuring snacks by more than 20 sustainably conscious vendors.

Look for chips and guacamole from Atomic Cowboy, vegan sweet potato enchiladas from DC’s Smokin’ BBQ, the Better Than Tuna (chickpea salad) wrap from Lulu’s Local Eatery, and other goodies from the likes of Pi Pizzeria, Southwest Diner, Urban Eats and Whisk Sustainable Bakeshop. Schnucks’ Earth Day Cafe will be selling vegetarian jambalaya, empanadas and St. Louisstyle barbecue, while Schlafly will offer its Organic Pale Ale.

Now that Paul Hamilton has created a successful annual beer expo (the Centennial Beer Festival), he’s turning his attention to vino with the inaugural Centennial Wine Expo.

Fourteen wine distributors will present 140 different wines from all over the world, most of which are available only to restaurants or specialty wine shops.

Look for tasting sheets to keep track of your favorites and a special VIP option that features a selection of hors d’ oeuvres.

Cooking So You Love the Spring Vegetables You Hate Class April 30 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.

314.577.5100 · Missouri Botanical Garden · mobot.org Once upon a time, we ate whatever mush our parents steered into our mouths on a spoon that, curiously, made airplane noises when Mom waved it around. Then, we got older and decided we hated vegetables.

Later, we got much older and liked them again – mostly. Even as adults, many of us have several veggies that we just cannot abide. That’s where chef Diana Smith comes in. Her cooking class this month will offer easy, creative and tasty recipes for asparagus, spinach, peas and other common seasonal veggies that may be reviled by the best of us. Picky eaters welcome. Register at the website above.

sponsored events

Feast of Nations

April 2 – 6 to 8 p.m., various restaurants 314.773.9090 · iistl.org See left for details.

A Tasteful Affair

April 7 – 2 to 5 p.m., Four Seasons, St. Louis 314.652.3663 · foodoutreach.org See left for details.

Earth Day Festival

April 20 – 4 to 7 p.m., The Muny, Forest Park 314.282.7533 · stlouisearthday.org See left for details.

Centennial Wine Expo

April 26 – 6 to 9 p.m., Moulin Events · 314.621.1996 centennialwineexpo.chirrpy.com See left for details.

Denotes a sauce sponsored event saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 53

5 Questions for Ben Edison As warm air moves in, the patio at DeMun Oyster Bar is sure to fill up fast. But if it’s been a while since you stopped by this Parisianstyle bar, you’ll be surprised to find more than bivalves and bubbles. Here, new executive chef Ben Edison told us what to expect at Clayton’s hippest watering hole. – Byron Kerman

What have been some of the big menu changes since you took over? We went from a small, very limited menu to a full seafood-restaurant menu, and we also have some meat dishes. It’s not just oysters; now we have eight entrees. We do a Dungeness crab ravioli, a really nice lamb porterhouse and a salmon in Pernod tomato sauce. We have a Pear Wellington.

Everything in it we make in-house, except the phyllo dough – you’d have to be a masochist to make that.

It’s star anise-braised pears wrapped in puff pastry and then topped with Gjetöst cheese, a Danish cheese that tastes like caramel. Then we add a scoop of triple-vanilla gelato on a pool of Calvados gastrique. I act as pastry chef, too, with my daughter.

She’s 17. She does the chocolate torte. She’s been baking since she was 8.

Demun Oyster bar 740 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0322, demunoysterbar.com

Are people still afraid to try oysters around these parts? I’d rather take my chances with a raw oyster than a Chinese buffet. With all the testing they do of the water and the oysters and the tracking and the info-gathering, getting sick from an oyster is incredibly rare. At DeMun, we fly our oysters in daily. We’re getting oysters that were in the water in the morning in Seattle, and I’ve got them in the restaurant by 6 p.m. that night.

Is there really a great variation in the taste of different oysters? When it comes to oysters, with the hint of this and that and all the silly adjectives, people can get carried away. But the different oysters range from a strong bite or salinity in the front end to a mineral-y, clean finish. Some West Coast oysters have a crisp, cucumber-y finish, but then the Kumamoto oyster has a creamier finish. I usually tell people to get three or four different kinds to try.

Executive chef Ben Edison with his daughter, Delaney.

To see the rest of our interview with Edison, head to SauceMagazine.com/blog.

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What food did you hate as a kid that you love now?

Clams. Ironic, isn’t it? I grew up on the coast, fishing with my father off the coast of Connecticut and spending time in Maryland. We’d have the freshest clams when I was a kid. They would make them in a white-wine Alfredo, and I would just eat the noodles. I never realized how much I took seafood for granted.

April 2013

Photo by ashley gieseking

How many oysters could you eat in one sitting?

The most I’ve ever eaten was four- or five-dozen, and those were Gulf oysters at a little oyster bar in the Gulf. My uncle and I sat down and finished off about 12 dozen between the two of us.

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