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A P R I L 2 017 • VO LUM E 17, ISSU E 4 How do you feel about kombucha?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Fearful

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2017 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace I still think Meera Nagarajan komucha is weird, but that’s Heather Hughes part of the Catherine Klene reason I like it. Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Katie O’Connor, Stacy Schultz Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Ashley Gieseking, Jonathan Gayman, Dave Moore, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt Berkley, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Rebecca Koenig, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Matt Sorrell Allyson Mace Angie Rosenberg Isabella Espinoza I try to Amy Hyde avoid it. Amy Hyde Elizabeth Bruchhauser, Sam Flaster

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 April 2017

contents APRIL 2017

editors' picks

27 ELIXIR

9 E AT THIS

by heather hughes

Gut Instinct

Lobster turnovers at Sidney Street Cafe

28 EFFICIENT KITCHEN

by meera nagarajan

Chop Shop

by kellie hynes 11 HIT LIST 3 places to try this month

31 MAKE THIS

by heather hughes and catherine klene

Speedy Mac and Cheese

by dee ryan 14

FIX ATI O N S What’s at the top of our shopping list right now

last course

by heather hughes, catherine klene and matt sorrell

44 STUFF TO DO by matt sorrell

reviews

46 WHAT I D O

17 N E W AN D NOTABLE Hi-Pointe Drive-In

by michael renner 20 LUNCH RUSH SymBowl

by andrew barrett 23 NIGHTLIFE

Patrick Olds of Louie’s Wine Dive

by catherine klene

features 34 CSA ASAP Your guide to finding the right farm share

by rebecca koenig

Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop

by matt berkley

POKE

milkshake at hi-pointe drive-in, p. 17

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

The Hawaiian classic that's having a big moment

dine & drink 25 A SE AT AT THE BAR Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

by matt sorrell COVER DETAILS POKE A watermelon sashimi poke bowl at Lulu’s Local Eatery is the latest in the mainland poke trend. Learn more on p. 40 PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

The LOBSTER TURNOVERS at SIDNEY STREET CAFE are a study in richness. Sweet pieces of lobster are wrapped in flaky filo dough, brushed with clarified butter and baked until golden. If that wasn’t enough, they’re PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

finished with a cream sauce infused with San Marzano tomatoes, brandy, tarragon and a hint of chipotle, Tabasco and cayenne for a subtle kick. Class dismissed.

SIDNEY STREET CAFE, 2000 SIDNEY ST., ST. LOUIS, 314.771.5777, SIDNEYSTREETCAFESTL.COM

April 2017

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hit list

3 new places to try this month

the bar at vicia

VICIA

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

After more than a year of anticipation, pop-ups and special events, doors have finally opened at Vicia in the Cortex Innovation Community. Veterans of New York’s acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns, owners Michael and Tara Gallina focus on vegetable-forward, seasonally driven cuisine. To that end, the menu is flexible, letting farm-fresh ingredients dictate the day’s dishes. Take a leisurely lunch break at Vicia’s sun-drenched dining room to mix-and-match from a short list of meticulous dishes. Our tartine featured a thick slice of house-made porridge bread topped with butternut squash sofrito, marinated kale and oyster mushrooms, while the grain salad tucked a mix of wheat berries, rye and farro under shaved carrots, daikon and a rainbow of radishes with dollops of goat cheese sauce and pesto made from radish and turnip tops. Indulge with a quiche – ours included earthy shiitake mushrooms, spinach and leeks nestled in a fluffy, rich filling – but don’t forget to save room for dessert. A buttery turnover shattered at first bite, revealing sweet kumquat and ricotta. At press time, only lunch service was available, but based on that experience, we’ll eagerly make our dinner reservations.

Vicia, 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com April 2017

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from top: grain salad at vicia, roasted chicken at snax gastrobar, snax gastrobar

Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade is as simple as a place named for Mario and Luigi should be: just 10 taps and more than 30 arcade games. The 21-and-older brewery currently offers a couple of its beers (keep an eye out for Ermac Irish red IPA and Braunenmantel American brown ale) and is brewing more to add alongside taps pouring the likes of Schlafly, Founders and Crown Valley. Bring in food (or order a Dan O’s frozen pizza from the bar), grab a pour and drop some quarters to play old-school favorites like Dungeons & Dragons, Time Crisis II and, of course, Super Mario Bros.

TWO PLUMBERS BREWERY & ARCADE

Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade, 2236 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.224.8626, twoplumbers.com

And now for something completely different from the minds behind Robust Wine Bar. Instead of extensive wine lists and small plates, fill up with comfort food at Snax Gastrobar. Try the messy, delectable burger (two smash patties piled with cheese, bacon, a mayo-based Snax Sauce and the usual accoutrements), or pick up the Reuben, featuring a balance of house-cured smoked pastrami and sauerkraut. Prefer a knife and fork? Order the simple roasted chicken; a boned breast is seared for crisp skin and juicy, tender meat, all piled atop braised beans with rich shiitake mushrooms and bright lemon-garlic jus.

On this month’s Sound Bites, managing editor Heather Hughes joins Confluence Kombucha’s William Pauley to talk about the science behind this funky fermented tea. And tune in to St. Louis Public Radio KWMU 90.7 FM at the beginning of April for the Sauce Hit List.

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PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

SNAX GASTROBAR

Snax Gastrobar, 3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463, snaxstl.com

April 2017

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Fixations From a magical burn cure to a decadent amaro, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

Amaro Montenegro A new favorite, this bittersweet amaro is lighter and more delicate than most liqueurs in the category, with a rosy overtone to its complex blend of herbal and citrus flavors. $30. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345, starrs1.com

Kitchen 911 We had the unfortunate opportunity to test this product in the Sauce kitchen, and Madam Pomfrey couldn’t have done better. A thick layer made a pretty gnarly heat-source burn completely painless and even appeared to accelerate healing. $16. Triderma.com

Green Dirt Farm Tuffet Forget curds and whey – we’re eating tuffet by the spoonful. This grassy, tangy sheep’s milk cheese practically melts at room temperature and spreads like butter. $8. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

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Short Stacks Editions These slim, single-topic serial cookbooks are so beautifully designed, you’ll have to resist the urge to frame them instead of cook from them. $14. Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods, 4180 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2744, lemongem.com

Sriracha Granada Though we need both in our lives, this green goddess is nothing like the red rooster. Coming on strong with garlic, this STL-made hot sauce follows up with the vegetal heat of a spicy Mexican salsa verde. $6. Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com

Instant Pot This programmable pressure cooker makes it easy to whip up everything from perfect hard-boiled eggs to melt-in-your-mouth barbacoa in a fraction of the usual cooking time. $100. Target, multiple locations, target.com

Everything I Want to Eat From jarred pantry staples to lemon verbena-peach pie, these recipes from Jessica Koslow’s Los Angeles cafe, Sqirl, satisfy all our healthy-ish cravings. $40. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

April 2017

CHEESE PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

4th & Heart Himalayan Pink Salt Ghee Give everything from roasted vegetables to your morning toast an elegant edge with this rich clarified butter spread. $15. Dierbergs, 8450 Eager Road, Brentwood, 314.962.9009, dierbergs.com

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

double cheeseburger at hi-pointe

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

hi-pointe drive-in BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

“Good Lord,” I uttered with a mix of awe and apprehension, staring down at the mound of garlicky deli-sliced bologna and a fried egg stuffed between two grilled cheese sandwiches from the new Hi-Pointe Drive-In. Slicing this monstrosity on the diagonal proved helpful, but made the task of eating no less intimidating.

new and notable HI-POINTE DRIVE-IN p. 17 / lunch rush SYMBOWL p. 20 / nightlife GEZELLIG p. 23 April 2017

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problems if you aren’t paying attention – like at the register when you discover draft craft beer and little bottles of wine you didn’t notice way back in line when that cold can of suds you picked up seemed like the only option. Be sure to read all signs.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

Of course, there must be burgers. Like Sugarfire, Hi-Pointe uses a blend of brisket, chuck and short rib from grass-fed, grain-finished Angus for just the right amount of fat, flavor and juiciness. The minimally seasoned quarter-pound burgers are smashed and griddled to acceptably charred edges. Build a decadent, towering mess of a burger with extra patties and other accessories if you want to. But sometimes an unpretentious cheeseburger with crisp lettuce, crunchy dill pickles, sliced red onion, fresh tomato and mustard on a garlic butter-kissed toasted the Fazio’s potato bun is what interior you need. at Hi-Pointe Drive-In

But what seemed ridiculously over-the-top and needlessly extravagant made perfect sense after the first two bites. Then, as if it short-circuited the hunger signal from my belly to my brain, I couldn’t stop, propelled to forge ahead by the primal urge to devour. While not technically a drivein (there’s no car service), Hi-Pointe is the latest outpost of restaurateur Mike Johnson and partners Charlie and Carolyn Downs’ fast-causal empire; the trio, along with David Molina, is also behind the six Sugarfire Smoke House locations and Sugarfire Pie in Olivette. The modern, Lego-like building that incorporates brightly painted shipping containers rises out of the once-hallowed

AT A GLANCE hi-pointe drive-in April 2017

ground of Naugles and its successor, Del Taco. Approach from the south on McCausland Avenue, and the full force of the restaurant’s angular, sleek design and towering retro signage is even more striking. With assembly-line logistics, Hi-Pointe Drive-In operates like Sugarfire sans the barbecue: You wait in line, grab a drink from the Excel-brand soda fountain or tub of iced domestic beers, order off the menu and proceed cafeteria-like to the cashier. Take a moment to watch orders being prepared behind glass like you’re at a fancy carwash. Then tell the cashier your order (hopefully you remembered it all), pay, find a seat and wait for the food to be delivered on a paper-lined plastic tray. It’s a template built for efficiency, but can cause

Where 1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720, hipointedrivein.com

Hi-Pointe’s taco burger struck a balance between the audacious and the simple: A single patty seasoned with taco spice and crushed Cool Ranch Doritos and Chili Cheese Fritos had a satisfying builtin crunch and was topped with creamy avocado ranch and a taco sauce from Mission Taco Joint. If I were into halfpound burgers, this is the one I’d splurge on with an extra patty. The veggie burger surprised me most. Most veggie burgers are notoriously bland, mushy and unable to attain much crispness, but this one, consisting of chopped green vegetables, quinoa, black lentils and other grains, held up beautifully. Even with the Swiss cheese I added, it felt like the healthiest item on the menu. But back to that crazy sandwich. There are 10 such creations that, to paraphrase the menu, aren’t just bread and cheese anymore. “You could put chimichurri on anything and I’d eat it,” I overheard

Don’t Miss Dishes Taco Burger, Guac-Ness Monster

Vibe Simultaneously contemporary and retro, like The Jetsons

a diner say after biting into the hot roast beef sandwich. A good point, especially with creamy, funky Brie melting into the tender slices of meat sauced with the piquant South American marinade. The salmon banh mi sounded light and fresh – two pieces of griddled salmon with cilantro, arugula, crunchy chow mein noodles, pickled vegetables and a swipe of chile-mango mayo for some fruity heat – but was weighed down by too much bread and too little filling. Frying thick slices of avocado with a breading of crushed Funyuns, as in the Guac-ness Monster, sounds as preposterous as piling bologna between grilled cheese sandwiches, and was just as delicious. If avocados are good fat, then more must be better, right? So why not dress the sandwich with guacamole and avocado ranch? Throw on some provolone, sprouts and tomato on a wheat hoagie roll and you’ve got a Midwest interpretation of the leaner classic California version. My only wish: Funyuns as a side option. If you’re feeling heavy and bloated about now, take solace in four meal-sized salads, but don’t expect respite from the Brussels sprouts, which are roasted in bacon fat. An order of Belgian frites (fancy fries) can easily feed two or three people, and at $2.50 per order, they’re a bargain. But true Belgian frites are double-fried and have a crispier outside and fluffier interior than these thick, handcut versions. A good milkshake, however, can do wonders to lull such criticism – especially if made with Ronnie’s Ice Cream and booze-spiked for $3. Daily specials are no less outrageous than everything else on the menu, like blending in gooey butter doughnuts from Strange Donuts. Hi-Pointe’s twist on the drive-in can be as extravagant or as simple as you make it. Judging by the lines out the door, that makes Hi-Pointe Drive-In on point.

Entree Prices $5.50 to $9

When Daily – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

symbowl BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

SymBowl, formerly The HotPot, touts fresh, local options meant to make it easy to eat healthy. With a vast build-yourown menu offering up a lot of choices for bowls, wraps and salads without a lot of guidance, I actually found it a little daunting. Luckily, the staff was happy to give suggestions. I’m privileged not to have any dietary restrictions, but if you’re someone who has a tough time finding a place to accommodate an autoimmune, gluten-free, vegan or paleo diet, SymBowl has you covered with separate menus for each. And for a place with such a healthy and crunchy vibe, the portion sizes are decidedly American.

S.A.L.a.D. dressing. The menu doesn’t explain that it’s like a creamy avocadogreen goddess dressing,

stuck to the wax paper it came parceled in, but those little quibbles weren’t dealbreakers for my favorite thing on the menu.

SMOOTHIES AND JUICE

THE WRAPS Just get a wrap. Beef and pork are the most flavorful of the protein options – the braised beef is super tender and juicy and the roasted pork is crispy and comes in little chunks nearly indistinguishable from bacon (which is high praise). Complement either with something crunchy: Napa cabbage was a nice addition, as was the mild onion bite of scallions, and they have a great selection of other greens. Finish it off with the mysterious

but a quick call confirmed that the acronym stands for soy, avocado, lime and Dijon. It’s the best sauce on the menu, and people may not know it. The tortilla is another highlight: made from sunflower seed flour, it’s fluffy and crepe-like. My wrap came open on both ends (not sure if that was a mistake or a feature), and

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Smoothies and juice are big at SymBowl. Each juice is freshly squeezed or pressed and raw – without additives. If you’re a wimp like me, some (like the Drop the Beet, made with beet, celery and carrot) can be a tad earthy and unsweet, served at room temperature. But there are plenty of more approachable options. The Tanner smoothie, made with pineapple, mango and coconut cream was a real treat.

TEA Instead of a soda fountain, SymBowl has a selection of three freshly brewed iced teas. All the ones I tried were delicious, and they

even provided agave syrup to sweeten each to my child-like preference. My favorite was a mix of the black tea with the mango-pineapple. The combo was like a better QuikTrip tea – which I mean in the best possible way. I don’t always love iced tea, but these bowled me over.

SymBowl 11215 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.315.4421; 137 Chesterfield Towne Centre Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.778.0638, mysymbowl.com

THE DOWNSIDE After studying the menu like the Rosetta stone, you may feel as though you’ve decoded something delicious. But be wary, adventurer. Every bowl I tried ended up soupy – even ones that should have had very little excess water. Maybe it’s from sauteeing the veggies or cooking the carbs, but something creates a crock of condensation. I expected a kind of bento bowl from an order of chicken, vegetables, spicy miso and yaki sauces over rice, but what I got was closer to soup with the rice as floaters in a bland broth. I’m a huge fan of bowl-of-stuff meals and was disappointed that SymBowl didn’t provide an experience I was stoked about. If you’re going for a salad or a wrap and a glass of iced tea, it’s a winner, but I wouldn’t recommend the namesake.

April 2017

CHAKCHOUKA AT EGG

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gezellig

reviews NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

Humulus Terreux wild ale from California and Ritterguts Gose from Germany. Drafts are conveniently available in small 5-ounce pours for $2 to $5 a pop, as well as full pours from Gezellig Tap constantly changing taps. House & The menu is featured on Bottleshop a digital screen hovering 4191 Manchester Ave., over the bar. While beer St. Louis, 314.833.5532, is certainly the thing, gezelligstl.com there is also a nominal selection of wines, as well as house-bottled cocktails – usually classics like a gin martini, bottled Manhattan or Boulevardier – that sell for $10. The cocktails are enjoyable, but nothing to write home about compared to the massive beer collection. There’s a small food menu in the works, but for now customers are encouraged to bring in outside fare.

ezellig Tap House & Bottleshop is the one of the newest spots in town to throw back a beer, then grab a six-pack to go from an overwhelming selection of alcoholic goodies. Owner Brandon Cavanagh’s idea to combine retail with a super sleek tasting room resulted in a smart and elegantly curated, self-service beer hall that’s easygoing and inviting. Thirsty patrons have the option of imbibing from a sizeable draft menu or moseying over to the massive wall of coolers and grabbing a brew. Beers can be purchased solo, in mix-and-match four- and six-packs or consumed on-site – professionally poured in the proper glassware by bartenders willing and able to help navigate the intimidating menu. Here are a few reasons to pull up a stool at this bottle shop-tap house hybrid in the middle of The Grove.

April 2017

The Space There’s a dim, industrial, shabby-chicness to Gezellig. Occupying former music venue The Demo, it’s wide open and holds a nice-sized crowd. The 3,000-square-foot space is dominated by a massive poured concrete bar with a separate area for the well-used to-go counter. Exposed ceilings, corrugated metal walls and rubbed concrete floors give a sparse and distinctly utilitarian feel. The Beer This is not your average bodega. Don’t expect to see many patrons popping the top on watered-down domestics. While hometown heroes are represented en masse, Gezellig doesn’t suffer from the obsession with featuring only local brews. The beer coolers, which tout around 700 different bottles and cans, offer selections from across the United States and Europe. Leaning heavily toward Danish, Belgian and German beers, Gezellig is a fantastic place to dive into Trappist ales and rich, bubbly old-school abbey beers like St. Bernardus, Chimay, Leffe, Duvel, Tripel Karmeliet and La Chouffe. The 28 draft options range from beers made by nearby breweries such as Perennial Artisan Ales and 2nd Shift Brewing to selections like Ciderkin from Argus Cidery in Texas, The Bruery

The Crowd While the dark space is anything but warm and fuzzy at first glance, there’s definitely an upbeat, fun atmosphere in this scrappy little taproom. The name itself, Gezellig, is a Dutch word roughly meaning convivial atmosphere, coziness or good times – similar to the Danish hygge. It suits the spot, which shares its up-and-coming neighborhood’s friendly, but irreverent, atmosphere. There’s a sense of community here, but thankfully not one of beer snobs. You could be just as comfortable sitting alone for an hour, chatting with strangers as you would piled into one of the long communal tables surrounded by old high-school buddies. The crowds can be thin at this new beer-centric stronghold, but with The Grove’s foot traffic and its appeal to both beer geeks and casual drinkers, Gezellig could easily become a neighborhood institution.

ORDER IT

gezellig

From left, St. Bernadus Tripel abbey ale from Belgium and local 2nd Shift Brewing Unicorn Killer saison

More than 700 bottles and cans are available at Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop.

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dine

& drink this riesling balances acidity with sweetness.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Fresh grapefruit-cinnamon syrup was a secret ingredient used by the original tiki master Don the Beachcomber. Try BG Reynolds Paradise Blend, recently renamed from Don’s Mix, in a classic TED AND JAMIE Donga Punch. In an ice-filled KILGORE shaker, combine 1½ ounces USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart Rhum Clement VSOP, 1 and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House ounce Paradise Blend and ¾ ounce lime juice. Shake vigorously, strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a grapefruit twist. $12. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com April 2017

I did a double take when I saw the price tag on the 2016 Frisk Prickly Riesling. How could such a wellconstructed, trueto-varietal Australian GLENN BARDGETT wine be so affordable? Member of the Missouri Wine Crisp acidity balances and Grape Board and wine this beautiful riesling’s director at Annie Gunn’s sweetness. Pick up a bottle for springtime entertaining and make any wine drinker happy with this overdelivering white. $12. The Wine Barrel, 3828 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Ste. 111, Sunset Hills, 314.842.9463, thewinebarrelstl.com

Boulevard Brewing Co.’s newest portfolio addition, American Kölsch, is a clean, crisp, German-style pale golden ale that will keep you cool as temperatures rise. KATIE HERRERA Ale fermentation Co-founder of Femme followed by lagering Ferment and manager at The Side Project Cellar creates a nicely balanced beer. Notes of bread and yeast on the nose give way to a palate punctuated by an herbal, citrusy hop expression with just a touch of sweetness. Available at most major grocery stores saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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gut instinct

KOMBUCHA

BY HEATHER HUGHES

From sour beer to kimchi, trendy fermented favorites can be polarizing. Take kombucha: Fans applaud the fermented tea’s sweet-tart effervescence, while haters disparage its funky, acetic tang. We’re on team kombucha. It’s not hard to find one that will please your palate. Varieties range from turnyour-mouth-inside-out sour to Snapple sweet – with profiles as varied as the ingredients brewers add to flavor their teas. The largest producer in Missouri, Companion Kombucha, is sweetly approachable, with barely noticeable carbonation and very little funk. Bottles of Com Kom’s colorful fruity and floral flavors – from Punchy Pomegranate to Laid Back Lavender – are widely available in the metro area. Fenton-based KomBlu Kombucha offers lighter, super sparkly options in big blue bottles that pop open like Champagne. Strong aromatics of ginger, citrus, mango or grape subside to mild, bubbly sips of each flavored tea.

PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

If you’re looking for something a little funkier and more acerbic, head to The Grove and try Confluence Kombucha in mildly carbonated flavors like an earthy golden beet-chamomile, an oddly savory jackfruit-lime-saffron or a gose beerinspired coriander-lemon-salt. Kombucha is made by fermenting brewed tea with sugar and a culture called SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) that grows to look like an alien jellyfish over the tea. “Through the fermentation process, organic acids are produced,” said Confluence Kombucha founder and master brewer William Pauley. That’s what gives kombucha its vinegary quality.

March 2017

confluence kombuchas; below: jars of kombucha fermenting at confluence

“It’s high in probiotics and B vitamins, and has innumerable health benefits,” he said. Pauley recommended drinking kombucha at least a few times a week for preventative gut health, but, “I’ll never say that it’ll cure anything – it’s not like you’re sick and decide, ‘I’m going to drink kombucha and feel better.’ It’s not going to cure you if you’re really ill.” Healthy or not, people wouldn’t drink this stuff if it weren’t delicious. “Beyond anything, taste is what matters the most,” Pauley said. He ferments Confluence’s kombucha using white, oolong, green or black teas depending on the flavor profile he’s going for with the ingredients he plans to infuse. “Some of my flavors are really complex but then some [let one ingredient] shine. That’s why we ferment the tea by itself – we let the tea do its thing, and I’ll do the magic I do after that,” Pauley said.

Confluence has eight kombucha taps that change almost daily with Pauley’s creative concoctions. Look for the semi-permanent pineapple-turmeric-peppercorn, which has a fruity sweetness with underlying vegetal notes on the palate and a hint of white pepper spice. The simpler, sweet-tart jun is fermented with wildflower honey instead of sugar. Balanced, clean-tasting and less cloudy, the jun is a good place to start – or just go with your gut.

Confluence Kombucha, 4507 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3059, confluencekombucha. com; Companion Kombucha and KomBlu Kombucha are available at Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com; companionkombucha.com; komblu.com

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EFFICIENT KITCHEN

chop shop BY KELLIE HYNES // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

OH, HOW I LOVE my one-use kitchen gadgets and their ability to solve cooking problems I didn’t know I had until I saw the infomercial. The Spiralizer, cherry pitter and pizza scissors all hold esteemed places in my kitchen. So when I purchased my immersion blender – a handheld chopper-upper that’s plunged directly into the ingredients – I thought it could only puree soup on the stovetop. But this smart little appliance, also known as a wand

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or stick blender, is so lightweight, portable and infinitely versatile, it deserves a place in every efficient kitchen. This blender works best when immersed fully in the ingredients (duh). If you’re whipping up a little bitty something, like one scrambled egg, place the ingredients in the tall, narrow beaker that comes with most brands instead of a shallow bowl. Can’t find the beaker? A quart-size

measuring cup or the bottom of a cocktail shaker will do in a pinch. Immersion blending is a great hack to make everyday foods just a little better. Spin some heavy cream with a sprinkle of powdered sugar and a splash of vanilla to start the day with a better cuppa coffee or turn fresh fruit into instant dessert. Vinegar-and-oil dressings that separate into mouthfuls of either one make people grumpy. Use your immersion blender to emulsify homemade dressings

April 2017

for perfectly balanced bites of salad. And cleanup couldn’t be easier. After use, fill the beaker with hot, soapy water and give the immersion blender a whirl one last time. Is there anything the immersion blender can’t do? Well, yes. You shouldn’t chop ice with it unless you want to prematurely dull the blades. And you’ll still need a high-horsepower stand mixer for heavy work like kneading dough. But if you’re happy to drink fresh fruit smoothies and buy bakery bread, this shouldn’t be a dealbreaker. I should also mention that the immersion blender made my whipped potatoes too gluey. So if you want fluffy spuds, use another of my favorite one-use gadgets: the potato ricer.

USE YOUR IMMERSION BLENDER TO MAKE: Homemade Mayonnaise If you don’t know the joy of homemade mayonnaise on a hearty sandwich, then you are missing out on one of life’s tastiest

simple pleasures. Start with roomtemperature ingredients and combine 1 large egg, 1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon minced garlic and ½ teaspoon white pepper in the immersion blender beaker. Pulse until well combined. Add 1 cup canola oil. Hold the immersion blender against the bottom of the beaker, then pulse until the oil starts to turn opaque. Move the blender up and down until the texture becomes light and fluffy, approximately 30 seconds. Black Bean Dip In a deep bowl, combine 2 15.5-ounce cans rinsed black beans, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes. Pulse with the immersion blender until creamy. Serve as a spread on sandwiches and burritos or make into a dip by stirring in ¼ cup diced red onion or prepared salsa and garnish with cilantro.

Lentil soup In a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat, saute 1 chopped yellow onion and 1 chopped large carrot in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add 6 cups chicken or vegetable broth, 2 cups cooked lentils, 1 14.5-ounce can chopped tomatoes and 1 tablespoon minced garlic. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Add 1 bay leaf and 1 sprig fresh thyme. Simmer 15 minutes, then remove the bay leaf and thyme. Rest the immersion blender at the bottom of the pot and pulse as you move the blender up, down and around, until the soup is creamy and about half the vegetables and lentils are still intact. Avocado Cream Cheese Toast, smoast. Spread the avocado love to your bagels using your immersion blender to whip together 1 small avocado, 4 ounces cream cheese, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, ½ teaspoon garlic powder and kosher salt and white pepper to taste.

Roasted Red Pepper Hummus Drain 1 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, reserving the liquid. In a mixing bowl, combine the chickpeas with 2 diced roasted red peppers, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons tahini, 2 teaspoons minced garlic, 1 teaspoon ground cumin and a pinch of kosher salt. Pulse with the immersion blender until the beans and peppers are nearly smooth, adding up to ¼ cup of the reserved bean liquid to thin to your preference. Garnish with paprika and a drizzle of olive oil. Silver Fizz COCKTAIL Place 2 ounces gin, 1 ounce lemon juice, 1 tablespoon simple syrup and 1 fresh egg white in a cocktail shaker. Place the immersion blender in the shaker and blend until emulsified, about 30 seconds. Fill the shaker ²∕³ full with ice and shake 1 minute. Strain into a chilled highball glass and top with 2 ounces club soda. Stir gently. Garnish with a lemon slice or bitters atop the foam.

Buy It: Cuisinart Smart Stick CSB-75 Immersion Hand Blender “I’ve carried more expensive immersion blenders, but they don’t puree or blend any better than this one. It’s a good value for the dollar.” – Kitchen Conservatory owner Anne Cori, $35. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com April 2017

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April 2017

MAKE THIS SPEEDY MAC AND CHEESE

There’s a happy medium between the blue box and a fussy bechamel. Thanks to some inspiration from Serious Eats, gourmet mac and cheese just made the weeknight menu. To a medium saucepan, add 1½ cups elbow macaroni and enough water or stock to just cover the pasta, about 2½ cups. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until almost all the liquid is absorbed, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk and bring back to a boil. Stir in 1½ cups grated sharp cheddar and ¼ cup grated Parmesan until completely melted and smooth, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately. – Dee Ryan

MAKE THIS

ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

TRY THESE ADDITIONS TO DIAL UP YOUR PLAIN MAC: 1. sun-dried tomatoes and basil 2. green chiles 3. chorizo or andouille sausage 4. chunky applesauce and smoked sausage 5. rosemary and balsamic vinegar

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C.S.A. 34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2017

YOUR GUIDE T O T HE R IGH T FA R M SH A R E

A . S . A . P. by rebecca koenig // photos by jonathan gayman

April 2017

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To some, the letters CSA are dreaded harbingers of mysterious vegetation in toomuch or not-enough quantities. But with a little education, they can mean fresh quality produce and that healthy supporting-your-farmers glow. Buying into a community-supported agriculture program provides consumers with food straight from local fields and gives growers a reliable source of income that reduces the risks associated with small-scale farming. CSA shares do vary with the seasons, making them less predictable than what you find on grocery store shelves, but don’t worry – you won’t get 10 pounds of rhubarb. Programs in Missouri and Illinois showcase the rich variety of Midwest agriculture. Whether you want to get your hands dirty by helping with the harvest or prefer the convenience of frontdoor delivery, here’s how to find the CSA program for you.

AN OMNIVORE’S DELIGHT

A MORE NATURAL OPTION

Fair Shares CCSA

Vesterbrook Farm

Setting your sights beyond just vegetables? In addition to greens and tubers, Fair Shares includes meat, dairy, baked goods, pasta, coffee and other edibles. The organization uses a combined CSA model, gathering food from many farmers in order to offer a wider array of products and less risk to shareholders. Some providers will likely be familiar to St. Louisans, such as Marcoot Jersey Creamery and Circle B Ranch. A two-week trial membership is available.

Consumers who want to commit to certified naturally grown (CNG) food, a standard similar to organic, may be interested in a CSA share from this Clarksville property, which has been owned by the Jaeger and Brabos families for nearly 100 years. Most food comes straight from Vesterbrook, but some comes from nearby certified organic and CNG farms. A few items that don’t grow in Missouri, such as lemons, come from certified organic growers in Florida. Members may also purchase organic meat and other groceries when available.

SIGN-UP FEE $50 SHARE OPTIONS • A 48-week full share is $2,532. • An alternating-week share is $1,350. • A 48-week mini share is $1,700. FREE PICKUP • 3:30 to 7 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 5021 Northrup Ave., St. Louis • 4:30 to 6 p.m., Wednesday, Trinity Presbyterian Church, 6800 Washington Ave., St. Louis • 4:15 to 6 p.m., Thursday, Kirkwood Station Brewing Co., 105 E. Jefferson Ave., Kirkwood HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY Limited to mini shares when conditions apply CONTACT fairshares.org

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SIGN-UP FEE $18 SHARE OPTIONS Shares are sold in four 12- to 13-week seasons: April through June, July through September, October through December and January through March. A variety of packages are available; see website for details. PICKUP • Free. Wednesday and Thursday, Vesterbrook Farm, 16991 Highway W, Clarksville • $4.50 for pick-up at more than a dozen city and county locations. HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY $9 CONTACT 573.560.0871, vesterbrookfarm.com April 2017

DOORSTEP DELIVERY Shared Bounty If you like receiving mail, you’ll love getting fresh produce delivered to your front door. Shared Bounty Farm in Troy, Missouri, grows more than 95 percent of the goodies delivered in its cooler boxes and, true to its name, donates 10 percent of its shares to organizations or individuals in need. This year, the farm will donate a half share for every full or half share customers donate to a charity or organization. SIGN-UP FEE None SHARE OPTIONS • A 22-week full share costs $995. Farm pickup costs $795. • A 22-week half share costs $685. Farm pickup costs $485. • Egg shares are also available with purchase of a produce share. PICKUP Sunday, Shared Bounty Farm, 987 Highway H, Troy HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY Sunday morning in St. Louis, St. Louis County, St. Charles County, Warren County and Lincoln County CONTACT 636.462.4058, sharedbounty.com

April 2017

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COMMUNITY SPIRIT

COMPLETE CONTROL

La Vista CSA Farm

Danjo Farms Harvest Box

La Vista puts the community back in CSA. Shareholders must apply to join and are asked to volunteer three hours a month, either laboring in the fields or through office and publicity work. In return, they’re rewarded not only with vegetables, but also with community events, such as an open house, a tomato festival, a yard sale and a harvest party.

Love the idea of local fresh vegetables but leery of stepping too far outside of your culinary comfort zone? With the Danjo Farms Harvest Box, shares are sold by weight, and you can pick exactly what you’d like from 10 or more varieties of produce available weekly outside Mercy Hospital. Multiple farmers near Moberly, Missouri contribute vegetables, fruits and eggs to the program.

SIGN-UP FEE None SHARE OPTIONS • A full share costs $600 and runs 25 weeks from May through October. • An alternating-week share costs $340. PICKUP • Free. 2 to 7 p.m., Tuesday and Friday, La Vista CSA Farm, 4350 Levis Lane, Godfrey, Illinois • $35 (one-time fee). 7 to 9 a.m., Saturday, Garden Heights Nursery, 1605 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights • $35 (one-time fee). 5 to 6:30 p.m., Tuesday, Green Earth Grocery, 441 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville

SIGN-UP FEE None SHARE OPTIONS Shares are sold for three 12-week seasons: February to May, May to August and August to November. A variety of packages are available. For example, a 5-pound vegetable share is $125 and a 5-pound fruit share is $166. PICKUP Free. Noon to 5 p.m., Wednesday, Mercy Hospital, 625 S. New Ballas Road, Creve Coeur

HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY Not available

CONTACT lavistacsa.org

CONTACT 573.823.5452, danjofarms.com

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April 2017

CHEF SELECTIONS The Libertine Neighborhood Bag or Five Bistro FitFarm Box Let the professionals guide you to good eating. The Neighborhood Bag includes vegetables, eggs, dairy and assorted items from farms including Tony’s Family Farm, Stuckmeyer Produce and Berger Bluff Farms, plus recipes and prepared items like bread and pickles from chef Matt Bessler and coowner Audra Luedde. Omnivore and vegetarian options are available, and members receive 10 percent dining discounts at The Libertine. The FitFarm Box includes produce, meat and dairy from the same local farmers that supply Five Bistro. Customers can add products to their boxes, like bread made by chef-owner Anthony Devoti.

The Libertine Neighborhood Bag SIGN-UP FEE None SHARE OPTIONS Shares are sold in three eight-week seasons: April to June, June to August and August to October. Each costs $495. PICKUP Free. After 4 p.m., Thursday, The Libertine, 7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY Not available CONTACT libertinestl.com

Five Bistro FitFarm Box SIGN-UP FEE None SHARE OPTIONS FitFarm is available to order weekly as a large $50 box and a small $25 box. Place orders online after receiving an email about that week’s upcoming box contents. Meat and other items can be purchased separately. PICKUP Free. After noon, Saturday, Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis HOME/OFFICE DELIVERY Not available

April 2017

CONTACT 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

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THE HAWAIIAN CLASSIC THAT'S HAVING A BIG MOMENT

WITH

Watermelon Sashimi LULU'S LOCAL E ATERY

B Y

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M A T T

S O R R E L L

P H O T O S

B Y

C A R M E N

T R O E S S E R

April 2017

tuna poke B O U N D A R Y

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Midwest poke bowls P I E C E S

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April 2017

oke (POHkay) is hardly a new culinary phenomenon, but in recent years the marinated raw fish dish landed on the mainland from its native Hawaii. A fastspreading trend on the East and West Coasts, where food trucks and poke-centric restaurants have proliferated, the dish is showing up in traditional and iconoclastic incarnations on St. Louis menus. Named for the Hawaiian term meaning to slice or cut crosswise into pieces, poke isn’t as composed or rule-bound as sashimi and doesn’t have the acidity of ceviche or pesce crudo. It’s meant to be simple, fresh and portable with the flavor of the raw fish front and center, marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil with various accompaniments, sometimes served over sushi rice. “It’s kind of a deconstructed or inside-out sushi roll,” said Pieces co-owner Laura Leister-Lettau. “I’m Polynesian and Filipino, so I have a lot of island in me,” she said. “I have family in California and Hawaii, so every time I go back there I always indulge in a poke bowl.” But the poke on the menu at Leister-Lettau’s board game bar and cafe doesn’t adhere to the traditional Hawaiian formula of the marinated raw fish salad. Pieces took advantage of poke’s freeform structure to experiment with a Midwest poke bowl: marinated sushi rice, green tea-infused cucumbers, red chilemarinated edamame and an array of raw local vegetables to which diners can add seared tofu, chicken or barbecue pork. “Surprisingly enough, it’s our most popular dish,” Leister-Lettau said. “It’s one thing we’ll never take off our menu.”

April 2017

Vegan restaurant Lulu’s Local Eatery works with a similarly loose definition of poke, subbing out fish for watermelon “sashimi” in its new poke-stuffed avocado boat starter and sushi bowl entree. Filled with sushi rice, watermelon sashimi, avocado, cucumber, radish, scallions, pickled ginger and spicy mayo, the bowl has surprisingly traditional flavor for fish-free poke. The watermelon is pressed to a bizarrely sashimi-like texture, and could almost fool you, if not for the telltale crisp bite of the melon. “We went to Kauai last year and were really inspired,” said co-owner Lauren Loomis. “We’re also excited about the sustainability factor, too, because we can get local watermelon this summer.” At Crave Street Food, chefco-owner Chris Ayala serves up a short list of poke cups. One variation that recently graced the menu included what he called “fauxnagi,” made with catfish instead of eel. Ayala said catfish is surprisingly similar in texture to its Japanese cousin, and more familiar to area diners who might balk at noshing on the serpentine fish. He utilized another element of southern cooking with a cornbread tempura-battered shrimp in this Catfish Dragon poke cup, finished with pickled red onion, cucumber and unagi sauce over sushi rice. There is also a Jerk Shrimp cup and a more traditional Four Alarm Tuna cup made with raw yellowfin, cucumber, cilantro and avocado. Boundary executive chef Rex Hale has been eating poke since he was a kid growing up with Japanese and Hawaiian neighbors. When he was developing Boundary’s raw bar, Hale decided to include a classic poke made with yellowfin tuna, soy, ginger, sesame and avocado served with taro root chips. It’s fresh, bright and unctuous without being

heavy, offering a nice alternative to his spicier crudo and ceviche dishes. One of the earliest adapters in St. Louis, Drunken Fish serves poke two ways: as a taco or a more traditional version featuring a riceless bowl filled with cubes of tuna or yellowtail sashimi, soy sauce, sesame seeds, a wasabi-yuzu sauce, diced mango, cucumbers and onion. A side of wonton chips makes it perfect for scooping like a salsa. “After we received several inquiries about it, we decided to add it to our menu,” said marketing director Myhi So. Poke has been on the restaurant’s bill of fare a while now, but continues to fly a bit under the radar. “I think a lot of people still don’t know about it,” So said. “But whenever they order it they end up really liking it.” Purists may balk at calling any bowl of cut up stuff poke, but traditional or no, we’re diving into the light, fresh dish this spring – be it raw fish, watermelon, meat or veggies.

Get it

BOUNDARY,

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7818, boundary-stl.com

CRAVE STREET FOOD, 2605 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8480, wecravestl.com

D R U N K E N F I S H , multiple locations, drunkenfish.com LULU’S LOCAL EATERY, 3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.300.8215, luluslocaleatery.com

PIECES,

1535 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.230.5184, stlpieces.com

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stuff to do:

APRIL BY MAT T SORRELL

SqWires Fish Fry April 7 and 14 – 4:30 to 8 p.m., SqWires Annex, 1415 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.865.3522, sqwires. com Finish strong this fish fry season. SqWires’ fish fry menu offers entrees like fried or baked fish, fish sandwiches and fried shrimp with your choice of two sides like clam chowder, green beans, hush puppies or mac and cheese, along with a Hawaiian roll and dessert. Soda, beer, wine and a signature cocktail are available at the bar, and guests can dine in or carryout.

Crawfish Boil April 8 and 9 – noon to 2 p.m., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com Gorge on all-youcan-eat crawdaddies during UCBC’s traditional Cajun crawfish boil – and throw in some gumbo, to boot. UCBC brews a special batch of Urban Gold, a hop-forward session Pilsner, and pours other draft brews including Zwickel, Schnickelfritz, Dorfbier and Fantasyland. Tickets available online.

Bake & Gather April 15 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Niche Food Group Commissary, 1013 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, nichestlgroup.com Niche Food Group’s Mathew Rice gathers his fellow pastry chefs for a day of giving back. Purchase wrapped desserts and sharable treats created by the likes of Sardella and Pastaria’s Sarah Osborn, Element’s Tyler Davis, Sugaree Baking Co.’s Pat Rutherford-Pettine, Brasserie’s Elise Mensing, Reeds American Table’s Ashley Rouch and others. Proceeds support the International Institute of St. Louis and the American Civil Liberties Union.

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Mushroom Festival April 23 – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Pere Marquette Lodge & Conference Center, 13653 Lodge Blvd., Grafton, 618.786.2331, pmlodge.net Learn how to safely forage for fungi at this annual mushroom lovers event. Experts share the secrets to identifying and selecting prime examples, then guide attendees on a morel hunt. It all ends with a contest for the smallest, largest and the most morels found, as well as food, drink and live music.

Global Brew Pet Trivia Night April 25 – 7 to 10 p.m., Global Brew Tap House, 112 S. Buchanan St., Ste. 1, Edwardsville, 618.307.5858, globalbrew.com Show adoptable pets some love by showing off your arcane trivia expertise and swigging a few craft beers. Donate supplies for bonus points (bleach, paper towels, dish soap and newspaper are among the most prized) and add your bid to silent auction prizes. A portion of the proceeds (plus $1 from every Lagunitas sold) is donated to Troy, Illinois shelter Partners 4 Pets.

Po’boy Takeover Through May 18 – Peacemaker Lobster & Crab, 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com Every two weeks, a top St. Louis-area chef makes a mark on the Peacemaker menu with a custom po’boy. Niche Food Group’s Gerard Craft took his turn in March with a fried mortadella po’boy; now Farmhaus’ Kevin Willmann, Público’s Mike Randolph, Vicia’s Michael Gallina and Companion’s Josh Galliano offer their tastiest creations on a bun. A portion of the po’boy sales supports the St. Louis Chefs Cycle team riding to benefit No Kid Hungry.