April 2022 by Sauce Magazine

THE BEST THINGS TO ORDER AT

city foundry April 2022 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // saucemagazine.com SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 F R E E , A P R II L 2022

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

APRIL 2022 • VOLUME 22, ISSUE 4 Beyoncé

PUBLISHER Who is your EXECUTIVE EDITOR ideal dining or MANAGING EDITOR drinking companion? DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS The founding members of the Grateful Dead

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS I want to drink dirty martinis with Dorinda Medley. She'd make it nice.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2022– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson Marilyn Monroe Lauren Healey Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey Meera Nagarajan Kanye West or Guy Fieri Michelle Volansky Heather Hughes Huff Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Christina Musgrave, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Hannah Freiberg, Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson Vidhya Nagarajan Allyson Mace Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Nicky Althoff, Hannah Freiberg, Sophia Liu, Kennedy Morganfield

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________

SEND A $30 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1826 Chouteau

4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

•

St. Louis, MO 63103 April 2022

contents A P R I L 2 02 2

editors' picks

features

7 EAT THIS

WHAT TO ORDER FROM EACH SPOT AT CITY FOUNDRY

Grilled vegetable kebab at Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant

by meera nagarajan 8 HIT LIST

by sauce staff 26

THE BEAUTIFUL ONES

2 new places to try this month

These spaces will whisk you away to a different reality

by meera nagarajan and liz wolfson

by adam rothbarth

10 DRINK THIS

2019 Ridge Vineyards Three Valleys

The classic dirty martini is having a moment

glenn bardgett 12 MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Elise Mensing of Brasserie by Niche

by meera nagarajan

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

WANNA GET DIRRTY by michelle volansky COVER DETAILS THE BEST THINGS TO ORDER AT CITY FOUNDRY Learn more on p. 16.

15 IN THE KNOW

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

The Mainlander Supper Club

by liz wolfson

last bite 43 WHAT I DO Phil Billingsley of Parker’s Table

by liz wolfson 44 LANDMARK

deal or no deal at katie's pizza & pasta osteria, p. 34

Rigazzi’s

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

by iain shaw

April 2022

46 STUFF TO DO by hannah freiberg

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

Eat This

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

April 2022

The grilled vegetable kebab is one of the standout dishes on the menu at Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant. Vegetables are marinated in a mild Aleppo pepper oil and then seasoned with a mixture of salt, pepper, garlic, onion, red bell pepper, green onion and sumac. Each vegetable offers a unique texture: The eggplant and zucchini are tender, the mushroom is firm, and the tomato has juicy acidity. They all have a beautiful char from the grill, making each bite incredibly savory.

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant, 4200 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2020, sultan-stl.com

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

hit list

2 new places to try this month

matcha-matic bingsu at spoonful

8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

from top: interior at spoonful, taiyaki at spoonful

SPOONFUL

The Crooked Boot’s menu reflects the creole, Southern and Caribbean culinary traditions that mix within the state of Louisiana (aka the Boot State). The Yaah Mon sandwich has spicy jerk chicken served on a soft pretzel bun with shredded cabbage, pickled red onion and barbecue and creamy voodoo sauce (a housemade remoulade). Tha Dirty Boy, one of several po’boys on the menu, features a mix of fried shrimp and catfish served on fresh, airy-yet-chewy bread sourced from La Bonne Bouchée bakery. The sandwich comes dressed with shredded iceberg lettuce, tomato and voodoo sauce, adding coolness and moisture to the crisp, textured fried seafood. Boudin balls and fried okra make use of the same well-seasoned house batter and are similarly skillfully fried.

Spoonful, the new cafe specializing in bingsu, a Korean shaved ice dessert, has opened in West County. While they offer a number of items, from bubble tea to coffee drinks made with Blueprint Coffee to taiyaki (a small cake filled with Nutella or red bean paste), the thing to get here is the bingsu. Shaved ice is made from a sweetened milk base that’s similar to melted vanilla ice cream, according to owner Monica Lee. It’s then poured into an imported bingsu machine, which makes incredibly fine ice crystals that are delicate and soft like snow and resemble shaved, dried coconut. The shaved ice is mounded high in a cup like a snow cone and topped with various sweet ingredients like mango or strawberries. The Matcha-matic bingsu was our favorite. It has a base of shaved ice topped with earthy but sweet matcha powder and Korean mochi tossed in roasted soybean powder, followed by another layer of shaved ice, matcha and mochi topped with whipped cream and a dollop of sweet red bean paste. Definitely opt for the sweetened condensed milk on the side.

2012 Campus Drive, St. Charles, 636.757.3305, Facebook: The Crooked Boot

12943 Olive Blvd., St. Louis, 314.485.1757, Facebook: Spoonful Dessert Cafe

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRIAN BAKER DIGITAL FOR SPOONFUL; INTERIOR PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

THE CROOKED BOOT

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

DRINK THIS The 2019 Ridge Vineyards Three Valleys brings an otherworldly experience, delivering the wine hug that this winery has provided for over five decades. Three Valleys is made mostly from Zinfandel grapes (73% – just under the 75% minimum required to label it as Zinfandel) from Sonoma County’s Dry Creek, Russian River and Alexander Valleys. Soft tannins and juicy berry fruit create a “drink me young” style that pairs well with nearly any type of food. Try Ridge with barbecue while grilling outside this spring. Glenn Bardgett is wine director at Annie Gunn’s and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board.

10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

“The fact that you can be creative with food came from my parents. I came from a big, blended family … [with] a lot of kids, and she was trying to make things work, but she was also a creative person. For every birthday, you got to choose what you wanted, and I always chose strawberry shortcake. It’s still my favorite dessert. I love strawberries, but any fruit dessert with a simple combination of something fresh and delicious and seasonal and adding the good, creamy fat stuff that goes along with it. Simple but good.”

Chocolate-pear cake, Patisserie Blanes ‘Au Petit Prince’

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

ELISE MENSING

Elise Mensing feels pretty lucky to be a pastry chef. She started out young, baking with her mom, moved on to throwing dinner parties in high school, and, from there, eventually decided to attend culinary school. Now she serves as pastry chef for Brasserie by Niche and has worked for the restaurant group for nearly 15 years. Recently, she was recognized by the James Beard Foundation as a semifinalist for Best Pastry Chef. “I am doing this job that not a lot of people get to do,” Mensing said. “I feel really lucky, and I have been here so long because it’s what I love.” Here, Mensing shares three meals that changed her life. – Meera Nagarajan

12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

“I went to college, and then I came home and didn’t know what to do next. I did different boring jobs and, after a lot of thinking, decided to attend culinary school in Colorado. I got to go to France for a month and stage at a small pastry shop outside of Avignon. It was a local shop, and it was great – one person made the breads, the other made all the confectioneries. I remember specifically a pear cake that I would make there: It was a chocolate cake layer on the bottom and then a custard center [with] poached pears that you fanned out on top

and brûléed. All the textures involved in that and the flavors and the look of it was beautiful. On the Brasserie menu, I’ve done a chocolate dessert with pear. I definitely pull things from my memory, and they make their appearance on the menu.”

Almond semifreddo, Niche “Right after I came home from cooking school, it was around 2008 or 2009, and I still hadn’t decided if I wanted to do savory or pastry, so I was looking for restaurants that had in-house pastry chefs. At the time, there weren’t very many. Niche was one of them – they had Mathew Rice. I remember that stage because Gerard made a dish for me to try – like I could pick from the menu – and Mathew let me pick a dessert, it was an almond semifreddo with cherries and caramel popcorn. Everything I tried there was so delicious, and that dessert was the clincher, like, ‘I want to work here.’ It was simple and the texture and the flavors – I wouldn’t have come up with that, and it was inspiring. [Rice] was so creative, his magic was figuring out: What makes a dessert really good? Flavor, texture, and behind it there is always a story. Those are the things that I think of when creating a dessert even now.”

April 2022

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

Her mom’s strawberry shortcake

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

IN THE KNOW TH E MAIN L AN DER SU PPER CLU B

IMAGES COURTESY OF DR. GORDON CHEN AND BLAKE ASKEW

The Mainlander Supper Club is a pop-up dinner series inspired by the often inexplicable dishes of mid-20th century American fine dining cuisine. “If you look at old books from the time, there were a lot of Jell-O molds and kind of weird, made-up dishes,” explained chef Blake Askew (formerly of Bulrush), one of the series’ organizers. Each dinner features three courses with drink pairings of reimagined midcentury cocktails and dishes like a riff on a Painkiller using locally foraged paw-paws and ambrosia salad made with roasted vegetables and mushroom “marshmallows” instead of canned fruit and Cool Whip. For the next several events, The Mainlander Supper Club will operate out of the former West End Grill and Pub space. Sign up for the series’ email list through the website to purchase tickets and receive information about event dates and future locations. themainlanderstl.com; Instagram: @themainlanderstl

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

W HAT TO OR DE R FROM EACH S P OT AT

BY LAUREN HEALEY, MEERA NAGARAJAN, ADAM ROTHBARTH, MICHELLE VOLANSKY AND LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

DIPPED CONE AT POPTIMISM

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

7 S U P E R N OVA BURGER WITH WOOKIEES FRIES AT INTERGALACTIC

2 CHICKEN SAMPLER PLATE AT CHEZ ALI

BACON & EGG SALAD A T G O O D D AY

3 FRUITY CHEESECAKES A T PA T T Y ’ S CHEESECAKES

SHRIMP ‘N’ GRITS AT 4 HENS CREOLE KITCHEN

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

BONELESS BEEF SHORT RIB TA C O A T K A L B I TA C O S H A C K

April 2022

11 PA N E E R TA K -ATA K D O S A R O L L AT TURMERIC STREET STYLE

9 ROTISSERIE CHICKEN AT CHICKEN SCRATCH

SALMON BOWL AT HELLO POKE

THE LIEGE WAFFLE AT PRESS WAFFLE C O.

8 CRISPY PORK TA C O S A T SURESTE

April 2022

10 SKIRT STEAK SANDWICH AT BUENOS AIRES CAFÉ

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

1. DIPPED CONE AT POPTIMISM

We’ve been big fans of Poptimism’s craft ice pops (brought to you by the owners of Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop) since their debut at local farmers markets. While of course the pops are tops (the goat cheese-blackberry and avocado flavors have special places in our hearts), the true must-get at their City Foundry location is the dipped cone. Sweet cream soft-serve coiled into a crisp waffle cone and drizzled with housemade dark chocolate magic shell makes for a perfect to-go treat after any (and every) City Foundry visit. – MV

2. CHICKEN SAMPLER PLATE AT CHEZ ALI

Chef Alioun “Ali” Thiam moved to the U.S. in 1999 and lived in New York City until 2013. After moving to St. Louis and cooking at Chez Mathy, Thiam has brought his superb Senegalese cuisine to the Foundry. Though his menu changes often, staples like curry chicken, jollof rice, steamed cabbage and fried plantains are usually available. Try as much as possible by getting the chicken sampler plate, which, depending on when you go, should come with curry chicken and jerk chicken, as well as sides like rice and steamed cabbage. (Definitely add plantains.) If you’re lucky, you may show up on a day when the fabled yassa chicken is on the menu, which you should order immediately and in large quantities. – AR

3. FRUITY CHEESECAKES AT PATTY’S CHEESECAKES

Owner Pat Upchurch of Patty’s Cheesecakes offers a number of different flavors available in slice form and as 2 ½-inch rounds that change monthly. Standouts we tried were chai tea latte, which had a delicate sweetness, and the blueberry-honey, which had a bright flavor and pretty purple hue. Fruity flavors shine here; sample a few little rounds to taste the menu. – MN

4. SHRIMP ‘N’ GRITS AT 4 HENS CREOLE KITCHEN

4 Hens Creole Kitchen offers creative twists on classics of New Orleans’ creole cuisine. The shrimp ’n’ grits is a solid choice; spice-crusted shrimp top a veritable lake of creamy, smoked gouda cheese grits dressed with a tangy sauce. – LW

20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

5. BONELESS BEEF SHORT RIB TACO AT KALBI TACO SHACK

The boneless beef short rib taco at Kalbi Taco Shack is tender and highly juicy thanks to a generous portion of savorysweet soy sauce marinade. It’s topped with an aioli and a refreshingly crisp housemade slaw with Napa cabbage, cilantro, green onion and a sweet vinaigrette and served with a lime wedge. We recommend opting for a flour tortilla. – LH

6. BACON & EGG SALAD AT GOOD DAY

At Sauce HQ, we’re firm believers in the power of a great salad, so Good Day’s focus on the green stuff was music to our ears. We loved the Bacon & Egg salad, which is a marvel of flavor engineering. Finely chopped bacon, tossed with a generous portion of baby spinach, gives a strong hit of smoky flavor, while pickled red onion and lemon-poppy seed vinaigrette provide just the right acidic balance. The whole thing is topped with a fried egg, whose runny yolk provides an extra layer of richness while serving a flavor amplifier for the bacon. – LW

7. SUPER NOVA BURGER WITH WOOKIEES FRIES AT INTERGALACTIC

Intergalactic’s menu lists all their burgers with double patties, and we think that’s setting the tone exactly right. The rest of the menu consists of loaded waffle fries (the Wookiees with caramelized onions, cheese sauce and mustardy secret sauce was a favorite) and a small selection of shakes. The not-to-miss item is the Super Nova, a double cheeseburger with pepper jack cheese, pickled jalapenos and spicy ranch dressing on a brioche bun. The patties are neither super thick nor smashed diner-style, but just in between. The best part is each patty’s burnished crust, giving addictive, umami flavor with each bite. – MN

8. CRISPY PORK TACOS AT SURESTE

Created by Alex Henry, the former head chef of Cleveland-Heath and Nixta, Sureste Mexican is an adventurous survey of southeastern Mexican cuisine. The crispy pork tacos, which take seriously crispy, bacon-like pork cubes, tangy pickled cabbage and xni-pec (a kind of extra chunky pico de gallo) as their centerpiece, are a tour de force. We love

the setup, which gives you a generous bowl of delicious pork and vegetables and three fresh tortillas to fill yourself. Our veg-heads were equally enamored with Sureste’s citrusy, funky marinated beets tostada. Get the well-rounded meal you deserve by ordering both. – AR

9. ROTISSERIE CHICKEN AT CHICKEN SCRATCH

Chicken Scratch co-owner Nate Hereford (formerly the executive chef at now-closed Niche) is slinging some truly delectable chicken in several forms, including sandwiches, rotisserie and salads. The rotisserie chicken is a great place to start. Those traumatized by greasy grocery store grab-and-go birds need not fear; Chicken Scratch’s are delicately flavored and juicy but not oily, allowing the meat to shine. – LW

10. SKIRT STEAK SANDWICH AT BUENOS AIRES CAFÉ

Buenos Aires Café highlights classics of Argentinian cuisine like empanadas, plantains and meaty sandwiches filled with steak or sausage. The housemade chimichurri shines here, its fresh acidity providing refreshing balance to the rich meats and fried items. We especially love it on the skirt steak sandwich, where it’s used as both a marinade for the meat and drizzled on just before serving. The pillowy bread, sourced from Pete’s Italian Baking Co. on the Hill, is a perfect vehicle for the juicy, sweet steak and herbaceous chimichurri, retaining all the flavorful liquids without turning into a soggy mess, so not a drop goes to waste. – LW

11. PANEER TAK-A-TAK DOSA ROLL AT TURMERIC STREET STYLE

The menu at Turmeric Street Style is the build-your-own variety, so allow us to assist you. Get a dosa roll with the paneer tak-a-tak filling. There is nothing like a fresh dosa, a fermented rice-and-lentil batter that is spread thin on a flattop and cooked in a little oil. The result is a golden, lacy crepe that has a slight sourness to it and pairs well with spicy side dishes. The paneer tak-a-tak is exactly said spicy dish – cubes of paneer cheese are coated in a fragrant, creamy tomatobased sauce flavored with chiles, garam masala, peppers and onions. The resulting roll is spicy and satisfying and by far our top pick from their menu. – MN

12. SALMON BOWL AT HELLO POKE

A main staple of Hawaiian cuisine, poke is raw, diced fish, which at Hello Poke is tossed with umami-packed sauces and toppings of your choice and served over rice. Imagine a great sushi roll, but bigger, sweeter and served in a bowl. While tuna is the classic poke choice, salmon is a killer protein at Hello Poke. We were hooked upon seeing our gorgeous fish tossed with spicy jalapenos, fresh green onion and flavorful wasabi aioli, and then topped with masago and furikake. Tasting it transported us out of our land-locked daily routine to a picturesque beach where fresh fish is part of everyday life. – AR

13. THE LIEGE WAFFLE AT PRESS WAFFLE CO.

The Liege waffle – the style of waffle served at Press Waffle Co. – is not your average waffle. Made with a brioche-style dough and flecked with chunky pearl sugar, this waffle has complexity of flavor – a little tangy, yeasty and sweet. It’s sturdier too – instead of light and airy, think more breadlike, making it an awesome foundation for customizable toppings; our favorite was a classic combo of whipped cream, strawberries and maple syrup. – MN

14. THIS MILK PUNCH SLAPS AT THE KITCHEN BAR

Conceived by Niche Food Group, The Kitchen Bar offers original cocktails, beer, non-alcoholic options and more. Customers are welcome to saddle up to the bar or take their drink to enjoy with food from the Foundry’s other vendors. The This Milk Punch Slaps is made with Bronson’s milk punch, Maurin Quina, agave syrup, lime juice and orange bitters for a creamy, citrus-y, not-too-sweet drink that’ll pair with plenty. If you’re not in the cocktail zone, there’s a pretty solid beerand-a-shot deal you can jump on. – AR

15. MARGHERITA AT FORDO’S KILLER PIZZA

Chef Gerard Craft cannot be stopped! His new concept, Fordo’s Killer Pizza, is a pizzeria that fuses traditional Italian ’za with more modern toppings – think taco pizza, a Thai lettuce-wrap pizza and a shakshuka pizza. While the crusts for all the pizzas are well charred and airy, we always love a good ol’ Margherita; Fordo’s is generously topped with tasty, aromatic basil. – AR April 2022

HOW AM I FUNNY AT SUBDIVISION SANDWICH CO.

No food hall would be complete without a sandwich spot, and Subdivision, the third City Foundry concept from the owners of Polite Society and The Bellwether, fills that role. There’s a long list of quirky sandwiches on the menu, but our favorite is the How Am I Funny?, a classic Italian sub featuring Volpi Genoa salami and capicola, ham, pepperoncini, shaved onion, arugula, roasted garlic aioli and pepper jack cheese. It’s a little sweet, a little spicy, a little soft, a little crunchy – all we could ask for. – MV

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

st. louis' finest food trucks Food trucks have proven they're not a fad — they're here to stay. Here are 17 of the city's best.

pledge to you. They partner with only the finest local suppliers, from fresh daily baked bread and professionally blended proprietary ground beef to locally sourced produce. Their partners are held to the highest standards of excellence – that's how the owner, Matt Foley, would want it served to him. This is a testament to the fact that he loves what he does and the people he meets.

BURGERS STL /burgersstl

/eatburgersstl

Burgers STL believes in great burgers and great service. They also believe that great food and service shouldn't come at the expense of a great value. They commit daily to delivering the finest burgers, service and value. That is their April 2020 2022

CLARA B'S KITCHEN TABLE /clarabskitchen /clarabskitchentable Clara B's Kitchen Table aspires to provide true hospitality and a nurturing

environment to the community through an eclectic and Texas Southern-inspired cuisine that utilizes the best ingredients sourced locally. Whether dining with them at the truck or at their new brick-andmortar location in downtown Belleville, Illinois, their menu defines comfort food with rustic refinement.

DESTINATION DESSERTS /destinationdesserts

/desserttruckstl

/destinationdesserts_stl The Destination Desserts food truck is available 7 days a week to serve any large business in the St. Louis metro saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 23 I2 saucemagazine.com

area, festivals, concerts, farmer’s markets and private events. In addition to cupcakes, cookies and other desserts, they also serve fruit smoothies, gourmet sandwiches, salads and soups. Destination Desserts is a nonprofit social enterprise founded, owned and operated by the Center for Head Injury Services, a national nonprofit organization that helps people with brain injuries, autism and other disabilities lead full and productive lives.

FARMTRUK /farmtrukstl Farmtruk is bringing the farm-to-table concept to the St. Louis streets. They partner with local farmers to create classic dishes with a fresh twist. Must-try dishes include the brisket mac, Farmtruk burger, fried green tomatoes, and their Reuben sandwich. Find them at Enterprise Center in section 327, 9 Mile Garden, and the Tower Grove Farmers' Market.

FIRE & ICE CREAM TRUCK /fireandicecream

NARWHAL’S CRAF TED

324I SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI saucemagazine.com I saucemagazine.com

orders and EZ Carryout Combos, we’ve got the perfect menu for you. Pappy’s Rollin’ Smoke is available for private events, workplace visits, neighborhood deliveries and block parties. Contact them at foodtruck@ pappyssmokehouse.com or 314.326.1369 to see available menus and book your event. You can also find them around town at events including Sauce Food Truck Friday. Visit pappyssmokehouse. com/foodtruck for upcoming events.

/narwhalscrafted /thenarwhalstruck Narwhal’s Crafted is hitting the road with their new and improved bar-on-wheels, “Norbert Junior”. You can find Junior serving up to four varieties of Narwhal’s locally famous, made-from-scratch frozen cocktails throughout the warmer months at different events around the city, like Sauce Food Truck Fridays in Tower Grove - follow him on Instagram to see where he’ll be next! Fancy a Strawberry Basil Lemonade, Thai Collins, or Hurricane Tony at your own get-together? Junior is also available for larger private events and Narwhal’s offers other offpremise services as well; please visit narwhalscrafted.com/catering for details. Cheers!

PAPPY'S ROLLIN' SMOKE /pappysrollinsmoke /pappysrollinbbq

/fireandicecreamtruck Serving up sweet treats in a vintage fire truck! Fire & Ice Cream took a 1946

corporate event coming up? Visit sugarfire64.com or email rmblnrooster@gmail.com to book your event.

Ford Fire Truck, filled it with Serendipity Homemade Ice Creams and Ices, then blazed a trail for the St. Louis food truck scene. Find them at 9 Mile Garden, Sauce Food Truck Fridays, and the Art Hill Film Series. Catch them popping up at private, corporate, and personal parties! Grab a frozen treat and taste why The Fire & Ice Cream Truck is the hottest local food truck—with the coolest local ice cream on wheels. You'll be glad you did!

Bringing the best of Pappy's Smokehouse to you! From their famous ribs, BBQ nachos, sandwiches, and sides to bulk

ROX Y'S HOT GRILL /rhotgrill Roxy's Hot Grill is taking comfort food and adding her own little twist. They take pride in creating a unique menu with smash burgers, smoked brisket (the Monster), roasted pork (the Lil Pig) and grilled chicken (Flipin Chicken). Roxy's specializes in grilled cheese, like the Rockin Grilled Cheese, with bacon and pickles. Follow on social media to see where this bright red truck is serving next. For catering, weddings, corporate events and lunches, email rhotgrill@gmail.com for more information.

THE RAMBLIN' ROOSTER /ramblinrooster The Ramblin’ Rooster will be groovin’ around the streets of the St. Louis metro area serving up savory fried chicken sandwiches and more. It all begins with the chicken, a plump, all-natural breast brined for 24 hours. Then it's coated in their special breading, a proprietary blend with a combination of several different flours and over a dozen spices. Their custom-made pressure fryer creates the optimal golden-brown crispness for the perfect bite. The menu consists of chicken sandwiches, chicken fingers, wraps, wings, specialty items and sides. Do you have a party, wedding or

SEOUL TACO /seoultaco A St. Louis original, Seoul Taco offers a menu of Korean-Mexican dishes from Chef David Choi. Options include April 2022 2020 April

burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and Choi’s take on bibimbap, the gogi bowl. Each dish can be customized with different proteins - bulgogi steak, spicy pork, chicken, or tofu. Complete your order with a side of kimchi fried rice or slaw, or amp the spice with the signature Seoul Sauce. Visit seoultaco.com to see the upcoming food truck schedule, or follow the brand on social media at @seoultaco.

of the best barbecue cities in the USA to create a St. Louis-style barbecue all its own. Their award-winning barbeque tantalizes taste buds with baby back ribs, juicy pulled pork, and the best beef brisket in town. They’re famous for specials: meaty mashups that defy logic and even gravity. Get Sugarfire’s awardwinning barbecue on the road. “Brisket 1” is on the roll in the St. Louis metro area. Do you have a party, wedding or corporate event coming up? Visit sugarfire64.com or email foodtruck@sugarfire64.com to book your event.

succulent birria, juicy marinated adobada, or sweet and savory al pastor. You're sure to love whatever you order. Book the truck by calling 618-741-5880 or catch them around STL by following on social media. They cannot wait to share their ancestors’ recipes with you.

SPUD SHACK

The truck reaches the Metro East, Jefferson, St. Charles and St. Louis counties and St. Louis City, as well as 9 Mile Garden and two storefronts including the newly opened UKraft Cafe and Smoothie Exchange in Chesterfield at 14888 Clayton Road. Visit ukrafteats.com to book the truck for parties, events and more.

@ spud shack food truck /spudshackstl The Spud Shack brings new meaning to the term “loaded potato”. Their spuds are baked, flash-fried for flavor and loaded with homemade sauces and seasonings. They buy meat and vegetables fresh daily from local vendors. Add five different meat choices, more delicious toppings or veggies only, and you have a delicious gourmet meal! Hoagies or pitas with homemade fries are also available.

SUPERSMOKERS /supersmokers /supersmokersbbq

SuperSmokers BBQ has been smoking award-winning BBQ for 25 years and has all the ribbons, plaques and trophies to prove it. We’ve stepped up our game with Laverne, our food truck, and have added down-home Louisiana Cajun to the menu! Laverne serves all the championship BBQ you can handle, plus new items like dirty tots, smoked fried chicken wings, brisket grilled cheese, and shrimp and catfish po’boys. Book the truck for your special event at supersmokers.com.

TAKOZ Z SUGARFIRE FOOD TRUCK /sugarfirefoodtruck Sugarfire is doing something completely different. They take the best traditions April2022 2020 April

/takozzstl Takozz food truck is the result of two families sharing one dream: to bring fresh, authentic Mexican street food to the St. Louis region. Takozz fan favorites include their delicious quesabirria, street tacos, street corn, and churros. Pick your favorite protein: flavorful pollo adobado,

TUK TUK THAI /tuktukthaistl Tuk Tuk Thai's menu brings bold Asian flavors made with the freshest ingredients from Chef Scott Truong of Pearl Cafe. This truck has made a big splash on the St. Louis food truck scene since 2020 and has quickly become a crowd favorite! Everything they serve is filled with flavor, but our favorite is the King Rama Chicken. It starts with crispy chicken prepared from scratch, covered in a Thai Chili Ginger sauce. Whether you’re really hungry, or just want a snack, this food truck has something for you. Tuk Tuk Thai will really win you over with fun service and great food!

UKRAF T

/ukrafteats

UKraft is a local, family-owned food truck with a health-focused, fast-casual menu.

THE WANDERING SIDECAR BAR /thewanderingsidecarbarco /thewanderingsidecarbar

St. Louis' premier cocktail catering company and mobile bar, The Wandering Sidecar Bar has been bringing St. Louisans an elevated bar experience since 2016. This unique, allinclusive beverage caterer that specializes in craft cocktails brings the party to you with their three renovated vintage caravan bars. Wow your guests with their 1960 "Shastastyle" camper bar, their 1957 horse trailer, Birdie or their 69 Chevy farm truck, Big Red. Each event is custom and you choose the menu. Whether it's a neighborhood gathering, corporate event or your big day, they provide an unforgettable experience that will leave your guests talking. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I4 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

brennan’s

THE

EA 26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

BY ADAM ROTHBARTH

Going out simply hits different post-pandemic. If you’re planning a night on the town, you may as well have the most decadent experience you can. These spaces will whisk you away to a different reality.

EAUTIFuL ONES

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

Tony’s The long-awaited move from legacy restaurant Tony’s is finally upon us – and it was worth the anticipation. Its updated vibe, contemporary architecture and stunning art makes the perfect ambiance for a most extraordinary menu of Italian classics.

28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

TONY'S PHOTO COURTESY OF RYAN WEITZEL FOR TONY'S; GOLDEN HOOSIER PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; BRENNAN'S PHOTOS COURTESY OF R.J. HARTBECK FOR BRENNAN'S

The Golden Hoosier

A newer addition to the South City scene, The Golden Hoosier aims for the rustic charm of your uncle’s favorite hunting lodge. From period light fixtures and taxidermic animals to creative cocktails and a cozy back patio, this welcoming bar has a deliberate aesthetic that you’ll want to inhabit for a few hours.

April 2022

Brennan’s

Brennan’s new bar in Central West End – which we lovingly call Brennan’s 3.0 – is one of the most dapper, romantic, sleek spaces in St. Louis. Wood and leather line the lounge, while beautiful art-filled walls make the perfect setting to enjoy some cool cocktails and satisfying spirits.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

EDERA PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; BENEVOLENT KING PHOTO COURTESY OF GREG RANNELLS FOR BENGELINA HOSPITALITY GROUP

Edera Italian Eatery The lushly planted courtyard patio at Edera Italian Eatery feels like your own secret garden in the city, while the interior is outfitted with gold-embossed wallpaper and dark leather banquettes. Either space provides the perfect setting for the most stylish pizza date this side of Italy.

30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

The Benevolent King

All of Ben Poremba’s restaurants have unique and powerful vibes, but The Benevolent King might be his most lavish space. Full of dark wood with halcyon features, romantic mood lighting and, of course, excellent food, it’s a feeling you won’t want to cut away from.

Casa Don Alfonso

Nestled inside Clayton’s extravagant Ritz-Carlton is Casa Don Alfonso, a delightful Italian restaurant from the Iaccarino family, whose first restaurant, Don Alfonso 1890, has been awarded two Michelin stars. Between the gorgeous open kitchen and the elegant decor, this restaurant is a must-visit. (The delicious pizza and enticing wine list don’t hurt, either).

April 2022

The

Bellwether

The Bellwether’s handsome patio is probably the closest you’ll get in this town to feeling like you’re on a chic New York City rooftop. And the inside is a wholly opulent counterpart.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31

ROSALITA'S PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK; LAZY TIGER PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

One of our high-key favorite environments can be found at Rosalita’s Cantina, where a beautiful, airy bar turns any meal or happy hour drink into an elevated encounter.

Brennan’s 316 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.4449, cometobrennans.com Casa Don Alfonso 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.719.1496, casadonalfonsostlouis.com

32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Lazy Tiger 210 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.8888, lazytigerstl.com Tony’s 105 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.231.7007, tonysstlouis.com Edera Italian Eatery 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com

The Bellwether 1419 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.380.3086, thebellwetherstl.com The Benevolent King 7268 Manchester Ave., Maplewood, 314.899.0440, bengelina.com/thebenevolent-king

The Golden Hoosier 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8044, thegoldenhoosier.com Rosalita’s Cantina 12796 Manchester Ave., Des Peres, 314.441.7060, rosalitascantina.com

April 2022

Unique, avant-garde drinks and a dark, seductive atmosphere elevate Lazy Tiger to the highest level of our list of coolest bars in St. Louis. It’s the cozy date spot of our dreams.

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

WANNA GET DIRRTY In the immortal words of Christina Aguilera and Redman, if you ain’t dirrty, you ain’t here to party B Y M I C H E L L E V O L A N S K Y // P H O T O S B Y C H R I S T I N A M U S G R AV E

34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

THE MARTINI AT PLANTER'S HOUSE

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

DEAL OR NO DEAL AT KATIE'S PIZZA & PASTA OSTERIA

SWEET-A ND-SALTY DIRTY MARTINI ICE CREAM AT CLEMENTINE'S CREAMERY

Get it Nothing feels quite as indulgent

and rebellious in a post-pandemic world than sipping from an impractical glass in a cozy, poorly ventilated bar. Throw all health consciousness to the wind and party like it’s 1922. Hell, maybe we’ll take up smoking again. Perhaps this is why the old classic dirty martini is having such a moment. The “dirty” part of the martini – i.e., the olive brine – is arguably having a bigger moment than either the vodka or gin. Brennan’s A Weis Man’s Martini is a more savory, dimensional twist on the classic with cornichon brine, pearl onion, dill and dried chile. Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria’s

36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Deal or No Deal cocktail takes a sweeter, more surprising direction with Contratto Vermouth Bianco and kalamata olive juice, topped with a drizzle of olive oil. Recently, Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery offered a limited-run, sweet-and-salty dirty martini ice cream that would appeal to true brine-heads. John Viviano & Sons Grocers hooked them up with Sicilian olive brine and, yes, there was gin and vermouth in the ice cream. For Planter’s House’s co-owner and bartender Ted Kilgore, the perfect martini has been a white whale he’s chased for almost 10 years. “In theory, a

martini is simple, but the proportions and presentation are essential,” Kilgore said. His final formula for the Martini – Planter’s House Style combines three different gins, two dry vermouths, olive bitters, lemon tincture and Castelvetrano olives, which are famous for their bright green color and buttery-sweet taste. “Not to sound narcissistic, but I thought, ‘People are going to drink this,’” Kilgore continued. So onto his house classics menu it went, the only cocktail to be added to that side of the menu in two years. It’s been in the top three selling cocktails at the bar ever since, bringing vodka drinkers to the gin side.

Brennan’s 316 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.4449, cometobrennans.com Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555; 14171 Clayton Road, Town & Country, 636.220.3238, katiespizzaandpasta.com Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery multiple locations, clementinescreamery.com Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com April 2022

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

PARTNER CONTENT

The local bar industry loves Una Vida Tequila BY LAUREN HEALEY

When locally owned Una Vida Tequila launched in the St. Louis market in 2018, it was a breath of fresh air for everyone from restaurant and bar owners to servers and bartenders. Una Vida is not your average tequila brand – rather than prioritizing only sales, its owners focus on forging relationships with the frontlines of the industry, as well as giving back to the community. Plus, the 100% agave spirit is truly phenomenal with zero additives. Brittany Drzewucki, bartender at The Midwestern, said Una Vida involves the industry as much as they can, whereas many other brands keep their outreach more customer-focused. And while Una Vida, of course, values their customers, they know the industry workers are the connecting piece. “They do a lot of photo shoots with people, as well as industry nights and giveaways,” she said. “They realize how important it is for the industry to thrive for them to thrive.”

The Una Vida owners are so in tune with what the industry needs that they even created El Trago, a 100% agave spirit that’s about half the cost of Una Vida and “rides pretty laterally with tequila and can be used almost interchangeably with Una Vida,” according to Parlor bartender Andy Printy. “They created it to be at the price point that bars can make money, but it’s still a quality product. It

38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

doesn’t have quite as much vanilla flavor, but it has a good amount of smoke and sweetness.” The company is also involved in local charities, contributing to nonprofits like Stray Rescue, Care STL and more. “Una Vida was a significant partner last year in the 12 Bars of Charity event, which was a record-setting year,” said Ballpark Village COO Mike LaMartina. “Those types of activities are meaningful and drive brand affinity.” Jim Schuette, president and COO of Syberg’s Restaurant Group, echoed the sentiment. “When we ask Una Vida to help make a charity successful, they step up tenfold. They put purpose before profit and follow through, and I appreciate that,” he said,

adding he genuinely loves the product. “The first time I tasted Una Vida, it was outstanding. I could tell immediately they did their homework and really put effort into making a premium tequila.” And if the community and industry outreach isn’t enough, the owners are just all-around good guys. “We hit it off immediately, and it made me want to work hard with them and for them as a partner,” LaMartina said. “It’s great being able to work with a local company that’s homegrown and backed by a team of owners who are hands-on. They have every bit of potential and will become a prominent national product.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF UNA VIDA

When the pandemic took hold and most people were far from thriving, Una Vida sprinkled some “tequila fairy” dust on the industry, giving away about 2,500 bottles. “When Covid hit, all our bars and restaurants took a massive hit being closed,” said Bryce Lob, coowner of Una Vida. “We saw big liquor companies giving money to the Bartender’s Guild, so we asked our industry friends if they would get any of that. Most said, ‘No, we’ll never see a dime.’ We don’t have deep pockets, but we did have tequila allocated for events that was no longer needed, so we told our bartender friends to reach out to us if they wanted a bottle. We dropped them off on doorsteps with handwritten notes thanking them for what they do.”

For more information, visit unavidatequila.com. April 2022

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

PARTNER CONTENT

BY LAUREN HEALEY

Now that medical marijuana is readily available across Missouri, we couldn’t be more excited for the cannabisthemed holiday 4/20. Whether you’re into edibles, tinctures, vapes, flower, topicals or all of the above, the following dispensaries are sure to have some excellent options to help you celebrate in style. Most can even help you get your medical card, either with an on-site consultation or to simply point you in the right direction. 3Fifteen Primo Cannabis, multiple locations, 3fifteenprimo.com Bloc Dispensary, multiple locations, blocdispensary.com Jane Dispensary, 6662 Delmar Blvd., Suite A, University City, janedispensary.com Hippos, 17409 - G, Chesterfield Airport Rd, Chesterfield, hipposcannabis.com Swade Dispensary, multiple locations, swadecannabis.com

40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41

42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

April 2022

L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

PHIL BILLINGSLEY CHEESEMONGER, PARKER’S TABLE

Phil Billingsley’s education in cheese began in 2017, when he first joined the team at Parker’s Table to run the sandwich counter, which is located next to the cheese case. Billingsley would step in to help customers if then-cheesemonger Simon Lehrer wasn’t available. “I started tasting the cheeses to learn about them and got really excited about that,” Billingsley explained. “That was really where the spark for cheese came into play.” Here, Billingsley discusses his approach to putting together a great cheese case, some of his favorite pairings and cheese as a living product. – Liz Wolfson

case, it is not likely that wheel any longer, that is a different cheese now; it may be at a different level of ripeness.” “ J u s t b e c a u s e y o u m ay n o t l i k e t h at b r i e w h e n i t ’ s y o u n g , that doesn’t mean you don’t

like that brie. Maybe you just don’t like the young brie. You need [it] a little bit more advanced and aged a little longer.” “I don’t recommend e xt e n d e d r i p e n i n g i n yo u r h o m e f r i d g e – any extended life in

the fridge, it just runs the risk of the other flavors, the other odors and everything in your fridge getting into that cheese and creating off flavors. If you have a cheese drawer, that helps.” “I love a blue cheese with s o m e b ev e r ag e w i t h j u st a l i t t l e s w e e t n e s s ; a little

“I’m looking for something unique about a c h e e s e , the quality of the milk – in

residual sugar just really sets off the little spicy note in the blue cheese. It’s one of my favorite pairings. It could be a Moscato. Beer-wise, it could be a barley wine or even an Imperial stout.”

cheesemaking, that’s the No. 1 thing.” “ W e h av e t h e s t a n d b y s y o u ’ r e a l way s g o i n g t o n e e d . You always have to have the

Parmesan, pecorino – you need those staples. But I like to keep a fresh rotation. Anything Missouri I’m always on the lookout for.”

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

“ I ’ m c o n s ta n t ly a s k i n g [ d i s t r i b u t o r s ] , ‘ W h at ’ s n e w, w h a t d o y o u h av e ? ’

Because that’s how we get a lot of, ‘Oh, this isn’t on the main list.’ You find out a lot of the smaller quantity cheeses. Sometimes you’re able to get really great deals. I love passing those along to customers.” “Sometimes it could be j u s t s o m e t h i n g f u n . I brought

in for cheese club this month Point Reyes’

April 2022

TomaRashi. It’s seasoned with togarashi. It’s their Toma [an Italian cow’s milk cheese], which is a very nice, on the milder side, simple, but a very good Toma. But with that togarashi Japanese blend, it’s got a little spice that has a little bit of that savory umami from the nori going on with it. It makes it a really interesting cheese beyond just something spicy, which there’s a lot of.” “Sometimes on stronger cheeses with a stronger s m e l l i n g r i n d , that doesn’t

necessarily reflect the cheese inside. Sometimes there are those cheeses where if you just smell it, that may be an instant

turn-off, but it doesn’t mean that’s what the cheese [tastes like].” “A l o t o f n a t u r a l r i n d c h e e s e s c a n b e l i k e t h at.

Tomme crayeuse can be that way, where you get a more pungent rind but then just a nice soft, creamy [cheese], on the milder side, little grassy notes. Or a Râclette that’s just super creamy and very mild, but sometimes that rind can be pretty pungent.” “[Cheese] is a living p r o d u c t . That cheese that you buy

today, if you come back three or four weeks from now and I still have that cheese in the

“A B e l g i a n t r i p e l w i t h a double- or triple-cream c h e e s e i s c r a z y g o o d . IPA

and cheddar, like an English cheddar with an IPA. I would recommend not a full-on East Coast [IPA] with no bitterness – just a little bit of bitterness left in there. I think that’s what really sets it off.” “ T h e r e a r e c e r ta i n c l a s s i c pa i r i n g s t h at a r e c l a s s i c s f o r a r e a s o n , that

work really great, like a Stilton and port. But if you don’t like port or sweet wines, maybe that’s not for you. So I do think that it is open. There aren’t any real rules. If you enjoy it, I think that’s the most important thing.”

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

RIGAZZI’S BY I A I N S H AW

clockwise, from top: the entrance at rigazzi's, a mural inside the restaurant, the famous parmiciano at rigazzi's

Josephine’s late husband Louis opened Rigazzi’s in 1957 with his friend, John Riganti. Rigazzi’s was a portmanteau of its founders’ last names, and Louis and John initially embarked on other ventures together, including a bar. The partnership ended amicably in 1961, with John moving on to pursue his own business interests while Louis focused on Rigazzi’s. Rigazzi’s still works off many recipes created by Louis, who was formerly a chef at one of the Hill’s legendary restaurants, Ruggeri’s. “My father-in-law was quite the chef, so our sauces are all his recipes

44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

was partially damaged. Joan’s late husband (and Louis’ son), Mark Aiazzi, simply bought up more of the statues. “He was just on a mission, which I think kept him sane, to be distracted, and he tried to find as many as he could,” Joan said. The restaurant’s ample collection of St. Louis sports memorabilia is another of Mark’s legacies. In fact, in the days of the old Checkerdome Arena, the Blues players themselves were regular visitors to Rigazzi’s.

still,” Joan said. “A lot of our meatballs and spaghetti and pizza, a lot of things are the same.” Generations of families have taken those dishes to their hearts, as well as trademarks like the best-selling Famous Parmiciano. This beef Parmesan is available on a sandwich or as an entree with pasta. “Probably at least once a week I have the Parmesan with our slaw,” said Joan. “It’s a little bit of heaven right there.” Another part of the fun is enjoying the House Golden Ale (brewed exclusively for Rigazzi’s by O’Fallon Brewery) or any other beer served in the restaurant’s frozen 32-ounce “fishbowl” glasses. Rigazzi’s toasted ravioli is another of the signatures that have earned the affections of customers old and new. Originally the labor-intensive, hand-rolled ravioli were prepared in-house; eventually Louis Aiazzi outsourced the operation.

Rigazzi’s has survived and thrived through bigger upheavals. The interior was lovingly restored following a fire in 2000 that forced the restaurant to close for eight months. The collection of celebrity figurines, which sits atop shelves around the perimeter of the front dining room,

Mark passed away unexpectedly in 2013, but he remains immortalized in a mural depicting characters from The Godfather trilogy that a local artist painted in the aftermath of the fire. “She put my husband’s face on the bishop,” Joan laughed. “It’s just incredible, it’s so fun.”

4945 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.4900, rigazzis.com April 2022

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

At 94 years old, Josephine Aiazzi still comes to Rigazzi’s most days for coffee and sometimes to eat. Josephine’s daughter-in-law is the restaurant’s owner, Joan Aiazzi. Joan describes Josephine’s role as “quality control” – and indeed, few have such an intimate link with this institution on the Hill.

ERICKA FRANK THE CAKERY + THE CUP

Position: Owner Married? Kids? To my husband of 15 years, Kevin. He came on with the businesses last April as our chief technology officer after working as a software engineer at Boeing for almost 20 years. Our kids are two 14 year old miniature schnauzers named Juli and Ray. We love old dogs. Where are you originally from? Memphis, Tennessee Where did you go to school? I did my undergrad in nutrition and dietetics at Samford University in Birmingham, Alabama. How did you get to where you are? A lot of prayer, support and hard work from incredible family, friends, colleagues and team members.

New things going on in your restaurant: In April, we will finally be done with the very long process of remodeling our entire space! It’s going be lovely and will help us function much more efficiently! Favorite menu item: Oh my gosh – I still love every single menu item! If I had to choose, it would be our fully frosted chocolate chip cookie cake at The Cakery, and our December limited edition gingerbread cupcake with browned butter filling, topped with fresh whipped cream at the Cup. Three cool facts about you: I love and keep honeybees. Not just for the honey, but for the amazing creatures that they are. I have loved to decorate cakes since I was 12 but never imagined it would be my career.

I lived above The Cakery for the first 4 ½ years – what I used to tell friends was “my ultimate dream.” The Cakery just turned 17 years old and I’m blessed to be living beyond what I even had the capacity to dream almost 20 years ago. What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? I love mixers. Hand mixers, stand mixers, monster mixers... when we opened The Cakery, the purchase of our first 30-quart Hobart mixer (used of course) was a monumental occasion. 16 years later at The Cup, our first 60-quart mixer has been lovingly named T-Rex by the CWE team. I’m currently on the lookout for a vintage white Sunbeam stand mixer in good condition. I’m not terribly nostalgic, but I have very fond memories of my grandmother’s white Sunbeam and love the design

of the mixer and the glass bowls that come with it. Tell us about Cakery Classic. Cakery Classic is our sister wholesale and shipping business. Fans can get cake and buttercream even when they move out of the St. Louis area! We wholesale and ship directto-consumer pints of buttercream and shippable/ transportable layer cakes. Each are sold at Fresh Thyme at the City Foundry and the buttercream frosting is sold at Straub’s markets, Kitchen Conservatory, Harvest Market in Columbia, Illinois. The Cakery 1420 Tamm Ave, St. Louis, MO, thecakerybakery.net The Cup 28 Maryland Plaza Rear St. Louis, MO, 1057 Century Dr, Edwardsville, IL, cravethecup.com

10,000+ items in stock and ready to deliver

online ordering NOW AVAILABLE! Visit our showroom or www.fordstl.com 2204 N. Broadway • St. Louis, MO 63102 314.231.8400 • 800.472.3673

March April2022 2022

saucemagazine.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE I SAUCE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE I 2I 45

L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

APRIL

BY HANNAH FREIBERG AND LIZ WOLFSON

Sauce @ Sophie’s Food Truck Weekends

Friday and Saturday nights, 7 p.m., Sophie’s Artist Lounge, 3333 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.710.5647, Facebook: Sauce @ Sophie’s Food Truck Weekends Sophie’s Artist Lounge in Midtown St. Louis is hosting food trucks outside while DJs spin inside every Friday and Saturday evening. Grab a bite from food trucks like Doggie Mac’s and Wayno’s Mobile International Cuisine to go along with a craft cocktail from Sophie’s. Look for weekly truck announcements on social media. Event is free to attend; food and drink must be purchased separately.

One Book, One Kirkwood with Diana Abu-Jaber

April 6 - 7 p.m., Kirkwood Performing Arts Center, 210 E. Monroe Ave., Kirkwood, 314.821.5770, kirkwoodpubliclibrary.org/1book1kirkwood/ Author Diana Abu-Jaber will be hosting the Kirkwood Public Library’s community read this year. Abu-Jaber is the author of The Language of Baklava and Life Without a Recipe, both memoirs about her cultural identity and memories of food. The event is free and open to the public.

46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Modern Barbecue With Global Flavors

April 6 - 6 p.m., Cinder House, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, samg.bz/Chefdinner For the first installment in Cinder House’s new dinner series, “A Chef For All Seasons,” consulting chef Gerard Craft and chef de cuisine Peter Slay are joined by chef Jonathon Sawyer of Adorn Bar & Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago. The trio will collaborate on a meal utilizing live fire roasting on the Cinder House terrace. Dinner includes a signature cocktail and hors d’oeuvres, with optional wine pairing available upon request. Reservations are required and must be paid in advance.

St. Louis Earth Day Festival

April 23 and 24, The Muny, Forest Park, 1 Theatre Drive, St. Louis, earthday-365.org/festival/ St. Louis Earth Day Festival returns to Forest Park! Learn about sustainability while enjoying food from local vendors such as Mission Taco Joint and Bailey’s Range. All vendors this year are Green Dining Alliance certified, and all utensils and serving containers will be recyclable or compostable. The event is free to attend; food and drink must be purchased separately.

Bayou in the Lou

April 24 - 2 to 7 p.m., The Lot at the Big Top, 3401 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Bayou in the Lou at The Lot Bayou in the Lou brings the tastes and sounds of New Orleans to Midtown St. Louis. Sample dishes from food vendors like Cajun Seduction, Sister Cities Cajun and Clara B’s Kitchen Table while grooving to live music from bands like Red & Black Brass Band and Big Chief Rhythm & Blues Revue. Tickets available online.

Laumeier Art Fair

May 6 - 6 to 10 p.m., May 7 - 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and May 8 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Laumeier Sculpture Park, 12580 Rott Road, Sappington, 314.615.5278, laumeiersculpturepark.org/artfair Art lovers and foodies alike will enjoy the Laumeier Art Fair. The three-day outdoor event will have 150 artists from around the country, local food vendors and live music. Laumeier Sculpture Park is a 105acre park with more than 60 outdoor sculptures. Tickets available online. denotes a sauce-sponsored event

April 2022

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47