August 2015

smoked beet salad with 'nduja vinaigrette from reeds american table p. 43

CATCHING

fire C H EFS S PR EAD TH E LOVE FO R S PI CY ' N D UJA SALAM I

Z U C C H I N I

REVIEW PÚBLICO

WAT E R M E L O N

THE PATRON SAINT OF S T. LO UIS R E S TAU R A N T S

P. 34

P. 15

P. 27

P. 38

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

August 2015

D R U N K E N

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, AUGUST 2015

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contents AUGUST 2015

editors' picks

27

COCKTAILS Pack a punch

9

by dee ryan

EAT THIS Pancakes at Gringo

28

VEGETIZE IT

10

Key lime pie

HIT LIST 3 new restaurants to try this month

by kellie hynes 31

12

TRENDWATCH A look at what's on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now

MAKE THIS Shrimp saganaki

by dee ryan

last course reviews

48

STUFF TO DO

15

NEW AND NOTABLE

by kristin schultz

Público

50

by michael renner 18

POWER LUNCH Royal Kebab Restaurant

by tim woodcook 21

NIGHTLIFE Heavy Riff Brewing Co.

by matt berkley

WHAT I DO Mark Baehmann of Wild Sun Winery

by ligaya figueras

Features 34

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU ZUCCHINI by kellie hynes

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

dine & drink

38

THE REGULAR 25

A SEAT AT THE BAR

by kellie hynes

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

43

by glenn bardgett, cory king, and ted and jamie kilgore

Chefs spread the love for spicy 'nduja salami

August 2015

Arepa at Público p. 15

Easy, unexpected ways to use up the squash of summer

CATCHING FIRE

COVER DETAILS Catching Fire The smoked beet salad from soon-to-open Reeds American Table is dressed in a vinaigrette made with 'nduja. Find out why chefs are hot for this spicy, spreadable Italian salami on p. 43.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

by kristin schultz

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

A U G U S T 2 015 • VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 8 What do you do with a windfall of zucchini?

PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL SPECIAL SECTIONS EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER FACT CHECKER PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Zucchini bats + cherry tomatoes = veggieball

EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR INTERNS Saute in huge batches, store in Tupperware and throw by the handful atop pasta or salad.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2015 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Ligaya Figueras Make zucchini fries Meera Nagarajan with tons of Parmesan Heather Hughes cheese and marinara Catherine Klene sauce, just like at Pasta House Co. Ligaya Figueras Catherine Klene Kristin Schultz Kristin Schultz Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Jonathan Gayman, Elizabeth Maxson, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ligaya Figueras, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Tim Woodcock Rebecca Ryan Rebecca Ryan Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Rebecca Biundo, Jacqueline Brogdon, Grace Bueckendorf, Morgan Rinder, Lauren Schumacker

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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•

St. Louis, MO 63103 August 2015

letter from the editor Here's me on my summer battlefield, aka a vegetable plot at my neighborhood community garden.

way with corn, a crop I’ve never grown before. It is because of small-scale farming that I came to revere food and the processes it takes to bring it to the table.

There are so many ways that food can inspire you. Grow a simple pot of parsley on the windowsill (then Google what to do with it). Ask Grandma for a beloved family recipe.

Give a watermelon shell a purpose (p. 27). Try some trendy spreadable salami (p. 43). Be like the guy so enthralled by the local dining scene that eating out becomes a personal passion (p. 38). If the pages of this issue aren’t enough to whet your appetite for good food, lend a hand in my garden.

I sure could use help weeding, and I’ve got zucchini to spare.

Cheers,

Ligaya Figueras Executive editor

GRANDMA FIGUERAS’ ZUCCHINI BREAD

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

2 LOAVES

WELCOME TO MY SUMMER BATTLEFIELD,

few years later, the neighborhood community garden was one of the first groups I joined. Fast-forward 16 years, and I cannot fathom life without a vegetable plot.

where I wage an annual war against weeds, squirrels, bugs and other critters. I tried the military thing once, as a U.S. Air Force Academy cadet in Colorado Springs, Colorado, but I wasn’t cut out for that. For the betterment of our country, I’m only fit to serve, protect and defend my greens, tomatoes, eggplants and other edibles.

Growing food ranks highly among my extracurricular activities because it brings such satisfaction. If you labor in your own garden, you can relate to the pride of saying you grew the tomatoes and basil in that caprese salad or you picked the okra that morning for the gumbo you served that night.

It’s always interesting to reflect on how you got from point A to point C. For me, the connection between the Air Force and food writing was a garden. Post-Colorado Springs, during my grad school days in Ann Arbor, Michigan, my husband and I planted a small vegetable plot next to our house. I recall our giddy excitement that year, awaiting our first tomato harvest. You’d think we’d never had a fresh tomato before. But how different it is when it’s your homegrown tomato! When we moved back to St. Louis a

When inundated with bounty, you begin to experiment, and that’s when the cooking craze sets in. What can I do with all these peppers? Is there a recipe that calls for kale, Swiss chard, mustard greens, radishes and kohlrabi? Can I sneak this bunch of arugula into pesto so my family still eats it?

What else can I possibly do with zucchini? (Kellie Hynes has solutions on p. 34, and I offer my family’s zucchini bread in case you don’t have a solid baking recipe for that monster vining veg.) This year, it appears I’ll be cooking every which

August 2015

3½ cups flour 1 cup sugar 2 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. cloves 1 tsp. nutmeg Pinch salt 3 eggs 2 cups shredded, drained zucchini 1 cup milk 1 cup vegetable oil (or substitute 1 cup applesauce) • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 2 loaf pans, then set aside.

• In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and salt.

• In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, zucchini, milk and oil.

• Make a well in the bowl of the dry ingredients. Add the wet ingredients and stir until combined. Distribute the batter evenly between the pans.

• Bake 45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pans on a wire rack to cool 20 minutes.

• Using a knife or spatula, loosen the sides of the loaves from the pans, invert them to remove them from the pans, then let cool completely on the wire rack. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

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August 2015

editors' picks

EAT THIS

If a tres leches cake attended weekend brunch, it would come dressed as the PANCAKES at GRINGO. These hotcakes are golden and crispy with notes of citrus and cinnamon for added complexity. The icing on the cake: a dulce de leche syrup of reduced sweetened condensed milk thinned with Mexican cola. It’s a delicious way to give PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

a beloved brunch dish a south-of-the-border spin.

398 N. EUCLID AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.449.1212, GRINGO-STL.COM

August 2015

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hit list

3 new restaurants to try this month

Gulf shrimp and grits at J McArthurs

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The farm has hit the table in Lindenwood Park. J McArthurs sources ingredients from more than 15 Missouri and Illinois growers whose bounty chef and co-owner Ben McArthur turns into fresh, seasonal appetizers, main dishes and desserts. Start with a summery composed plate of garden tomatoes studded with country ham and mozzarella or get meatier with sweet and spicy glazed wings.

Among entrees, try the shrimp and grits or the fish of the day, which sees the catch seared in a cast-iron skillet then plated with a smoked corn bisque, English peas and potato confit. For a sweet ending, slip your spoon into vanilla panna cotta dolloped with seasonal preserves.

Pair your fare with one of 16 by-theglass wines to enjoy in the 40-seat dining room or in the shade of the covered patio.

J MCARTHURS

1 Track this city’s Filipino food truck to its new brickand-mortar restaurant. Periodic specials from the mobile eatery – crab ceviche, duck adobo poutine and the fried chicken delight Iron Manok – have been turned into menu staples at the 26-seat, counter-service restaurant. Besides creative Filipino-inspired dishes, Guerrilla Street offers a half dozen old-school rice bowls like chicken adobo, beef stew (mechado) and its popular Flying Pig. Among sides, try the ube fries made from purple sweet potatoes and the creamed spinachesque ginataang greens. For a quick nosh, order the longanista corn dog of breaded, deep-fried sweet pork sausage on a stick or lumpia, a Filipinostyle egg roll. Can’t decide? Stuff your face with the $25 Kamayan platter: A dine-in smorgasbord of 15 items eaten with fingers. Wash down the feast with the Calamansi Cooler or the 1-inch Punch, which combines black currant and pineapple juices with coconut milk.

There’s a familiar scent of wood smoke wafting through Valley Park. Doors have opened at Dalie’s Smokehouse, the seventh member of the venerable Pappy’s Smokehouse family. Ribs are the cornerstone of any good barbecue joint; here they receive a rich coating of Papa Joe’s original barbecue sauce, while the Dalie’s smoked chicken is glazed with the sweet heat of cranberry cayenne sauce. Eleven sides are available; we’re pairing our ’cue with chipotle-spiked mac-n-cheese, crunchy fried pickles and hush puppies studded with jalapeno and kernels of sweet corn. For something more hand-held, grab a meaty sandwich like the Cuban featuring pulled pork, ham, Swiss cheese, house pickles and mustard between griddled slices of Vitale’s ciabatta, or attempt to get your mouth around a mountainous Reuben piled high with house-made beef pastrami and a layer of pork belly pastrami along with the usual suspects Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing.

3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.529.1328, guerrillastreetfood.com

2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park, 636.529.1898, daliessmokehouse.com

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

GUERRILLA STREET FOOD

August 2015

DALIE’S SMOKEHOUSE

3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463, jmcarthurs.com

2 1 Reuben with housemade beef and pork pastramis at Dalie's Smokehouse 2 Ribs at Dalie's Smokehouse

3 Scallops at J McArthurs 4 Guerrilla Street Food 5 Kamayan platter at Guerrilla Street Food

5

3

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A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now

BY LIGAYA FIGUERAS

Filipino food at the forefront

The Wonder Years

The flavors of the Phillippines are gaining traction across the country with big-name chefs like Leah Cohen of Pig & Khao in NYC, Christina Quackenbush of NOLA’s Milkfish and Paul Qui at Qui in Austin, Texas. It’s also finding footing in this town at places like Mandarin House in University City, where Sunday brunch turns into a Filipino fete.

Its Kamayan buffet includes dozens of classic dishes with everything from tocino (Filipinostyle sweet breakfast bacon) to lechon (roast suckling pig). Settle dinner pangs at Hiro Asian Kitchen Tuesdays and Wednesdays when chef Malou Perez-Nievera (know for her Filipino food blog Skip to Malou) prepares a menu of modern Filipino specials. And if you haven’t gotten on the bandwagon for Filipino fusion by mobile eatery Guerrilla Street Food, tuck in at its new brick-and-mortar restaurant near the corner of Arsenal Street and Grand Boulevard.

Children of the ’70s can’t complain: Their parents let them run amuck outside, eat cheese from a spray can and buy candy cigarettes at the corner drugstore. Relive those glory days at Sidney Street Cafe, where house-made Wonder Bread is turned into panna cotta on a deconstructed tuna fish sandwich, or head to The Libertine for the aged white cheddar “Cheez Whiz” atop the burger. Finally, go to Social Gastropub in Edwardsville and get the lobster and shrimp pie topped with smashed Ritz crackers and reminisce about all the crushed crackers (or corn flakes) your mom sprinkled over every genius casserole.

MOVE OVER, SRIRACHA Harissa, a red-hot North African condiment, has immigrated to the Midwest. Find the garlicky chile pepper paste accenting carrots at Basso, veggies and rice at Eclipse and the tomato salad at ClevelandHeath. Harissa meted meatier fare at Element, where chicken wings were dunked in harissa hot sauce, and it added oomph to roasted cauliflower at Taste, too.

It even served as inspiration for a dry-spice blend dusting the farro salad at Juniper.

Everyone is putting a spin on Asia’s answer to the burger lately. East meets West in Peacemaker’s steamed bun roll stuffed with lobster and sour cabbage and in Kitchen Kulture’s everything-bagel steamed bun filled with house-made pastrami. In September, Blood & Sand will begin stuffing its house-made everything-bagel steamed bun with chopped chicken liver, but in the meantime its Peking bun holds Maryland-style crab cake.

Jewish deli dance

Quit kvetching about a lack of Jewish flavors in St. Louis; there are signs that Jewish noshes are seeing some chef love. Now, you can find housemade pastrami at places like Dalie’s Smokehouse, Bogart’s and Death in the Afternoon (whose exec chef David Rosenfeld also digs into his Jewish roots for inspiration on multiple dishes at sister restaurant Blood & Sand). Then there’s restaurateur Ben Poremba (Elaia, Olio, Old Standard Fried Chicken): The news about his upcoming Jewish deli in Clayton has us salivating for lox and bagels, chopped liver sandwiches, knishes and matzo ball soup. While we’re waiting, if someone would make avant garde Jewish-inflected fare like the octopus “pastrami” at Bâtard in NYC, we’d dance the hora.

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From left, lumpia and longanista from Guerrilla Street Food. For more on its new home, turn to p. 11.

Dressed in meat

It’s no secret that bacon fat gives unctuous oomph to salad dressings, but chefs are picking other proteins to beef up their vinaigrettes. Missed the scallops swimming in chorizo dressing at Cleveland-Heath or the chicken fat vin on the salade lyonnaise at Old Standard? Experience an altmeat salad dressing with Sidney Street Cafe’s bone marrow vin on its smoked brisket dish, or order the beet salad dressed in a fiery-hot Italian ’nduja vinaigrette at Reeds American Table in Maplewood when it opens later this month.

For more on trendy ’nduja, turn to p. 43.

August 2015

STEAMED BUN PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; GUERRILLA STREET PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Steamed buns head West

August 2015

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August 2015

reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

Baby octopus at PÚblico

new and notable

Público

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

P

redictability plays it safe. It wears khaki pants with a navy blue blazer and eats steak and potatoes. Predictability is a sure thing, but it can also be boring.

Mike Randolph is anything but. One of the more creative culinary forces in town, he’s constantly pushing gastronomic boundaries.

new and notable PÚBLICO p. 15 / power lunch ROYAL KEBAB RESTAURANT p. 18 / nightlife HEAVY RIFF BREWING CO. p. 21 August 2015

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transports us with its broad Latin American influences. Or think about tortillas: Storebought are predictable, but ground from Landrace Bolita corn imported from Michoacán, Mexico and pressed in-house, Público tortillas are something else entirely.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

any taco from Público's menu is the right choice

And they make all the difference in the world, especially for tacos (two per order).

But what fills those warm, soft blankets of pressed corn is the real star. For the Hongos taco, the combination of oyster mushrooms and huitlacoche (or corn smut: a fungus that grows on corn) provides earthy funk with cucumber and radish imparting snap and goat cheese crema adding heft and richness.

Pescado Blanco pairs smoked whitefish with jalapeno cream cheese and crispy shallots; Smoked Pollo balances woodsmoked chicken with the bright tang of pickled red onion.

Billing itself as a “wood-fired cantina,” the oak-fueled hearth is the central visual of Público’s open kitchen, as well as the defining factor for most of its cooking.

Observe a whole fish on the grill, a pork shoulder roasting on the spit or a cook blowing on embers to increase heat. This is hands-on, primal cooking. dinner-only Medianoche, shattering preconceptions of Mexican cuisine before shifting to Little Country Gentleman in the same spot – again challenging our expectations – this time with an experimental tasting menu – until it closed 16 months later.

Explaining Randolph’s ventures is like trying to describe a David Lynch movie succinctly; you see the expository rabbit hole but can’t resist going down it, working quickly to elucidate complicated plot lines and untethered ideas before your audience glazes over. Take as an example The Good Pie Neapolitan pizzeria that Randolph moved from Midtown to the Delmar Loop, reopened and closed again to rebrand as an expanded Italian concept, Randolfi’s, slated to open this month. Diners were also confounded for eight months in 2012, when each night Randolph transformed his breakfast-lunch cafe, Half & Half, into the

AT A GLANCE Público

AT PÚBLICO, EXPECTATIONS ARE EXCEEDED MORE THAN CHALLENGED. Consider guacamole. You’d expect it to be superb, simple and fresh with the tang of lime juice. But piled atop two char-grilled, pancake-thick arepas in a pool of queso and chile-spiked salsa, Público’s guacamole

Where Público, 6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.833.5780, publicostl.com

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Don’t Miss Dishes Tacos, whole fish of the day, baby octopus

It’s how a side of green beans, tossed with fermented chile sauce and crunchy candied pepitas, arrived beautifully charred and soaked with smoke. It’s the key to elevating a bone-in pork chop from good to great: wood-grilled to a meltingly tender and juicy medium-rare, sliced off the bone and made even more addictive by the mellow heat of a peach-habanero butter sauce. It’s why I found myself eating my way through the whole, head-on yellowtail snapper – stuffed with scallions, fresh bay leaf, jalapeno, lemon and lime – before realizing I was supposed to make fish tacos with the accompanying tortillas and share with the table. There was no sharing.

Vibe Cantina marries gastropub and upgrades her status with dark wood, intimate lighting and margaritas worthy of a chalice

SMALLER PLATES REMINDED ME OF RANDOLF’S LITTLE COUNTRY GENTLEMAN DAYS when everything on the tasting menu was as perfectly composed as a Chopin miniature. There’s his ceviche-like take on a caprese salad that turns the classic Mediterranean dish on its head, using fish instead of mozzarella (Alaskan Ivory King salmon subbed for cobia the night I ate): four, fat-rich, finger-sized slices of supremely fresh fish bathed in tomato water laced with Serrano peppers, mint and basil – gone in four beats and so delicious I drank the remaining liquid (called leche de tigre or tiger’s milk) straight from the bowl. Público’s octopus triggers dreams of grilling on a Mexican beach: several tender, whole baby octopuses grilled then tossed in a Vera Cruz sauce thick with tomatoes and capers, punctuated with smoked paprika.

The grilled oysters are huge – two meaty Blue Points on my visit – and packed with green chorizo, corn and bread. Grits made from that house-ground corn, chorizo, crunchy corn nuts and red-eye gravy on the side satisfy on their own or as a side with a couple tacos.

Like everything else at Público, the drink list excels, especially cocktails. Two margaritas offer the choice between refreshingly simple (Ocho Plato tequila, lime and agave syrup) or smoky and complex (Vida mezcal, Creole Shrubb, lime and agave syrup with a smoked salt rim). The selection of 10 wines, each available by the glass, all hail from Latin America or Spain.

The U-shaped bar fills most of the small space, although there are a few tables and several booths. Yet, the best place to perch and take in the action is on a seat at the open kitchen. Público feels warm and intimate, despite the sound easily reaching 93 decibels on a busy night. Tree branches constructed of dark-stained wood jut out above the booths, looking like a stylized Into the Woods set. In the midst of this highly designed space, food is served on a mishmash of plates: some from Crate & Barrel, others from antique malls. With Público, Randolph hasn’t lost his whimsy or his unpredictability – right down to the tableware.

Entree Prices Small plates, $4.50 to $11.50; Large plates for one and for two, $18 to $62

When Tue. to Sun. – 5 to 10 p.m.

August 2015

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reviews POWER LUNCH

Power Lunch

ROYAL KEBAB RESTAURANT

BY TIM WOODCOCK | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Middle Eastern food has come into the American mainstream – everyone loves hummus and gyros – but it’s still hard to find good, authentic options around town. Enter family-run Royal Kebab Restaurant, a South City oasis of Middle Eastern fare with Turkish and Azerbaijani influences.

3 SO-SO SERVICE On my first visit, the gracious Gholina was alone in the restaurant, which caused long waits and poor communication impeded by limited English. My second visit fell on my server’s first day, and she was learning the menu on the fly. By my next ROYAL KEBAB visit, I imagine RESTAURANT some of these 3611 Bates St., service issues will St. Louis, 314.932.7745 be ironed out.

But, if Royal Kebab is to grow a following of non-Turkish-speaking customers, it would do well to focus on hiring and training servers.

1 AN UNCERTAIN START My first five minutes at Royal Kebab provide a great summary of the overall experience. Arriving during a quiet lunch, there was no one to greet my party, so we seated ourselves; a flat-screen TV chatted away in a corner. Then, seemingly out of nowhere, Pearvz Gholina – waiter, chef and owner – appeared bearing complimentary bowls of chicken noodle soup and airy, sesame-topped white bread, made in-house every morning. After one taste of the hearty soup, with its unexpected and delicious tomato base, my initial misgivings about Royal Kebab faded away.

STUNNING STARTERS (BUT SKIP THE SALAD) It’s possible to order appetizers and leave satisfied. The dolmas [1] – grape leaves encasing velvety rice– were served hot (a first for me) with acidic but slightly sweet yogurt and oil. The sambosas – triangular meat pies of minced beef and onion – were again served sizzling hot in portions so generous I worried I had ordered a main dish by mistake.

By contrast, the salads were less satisfying.

The Greek salad was diminished by flavorless olives and dressing more like ranch than the tzatziki I hoped for. The gyro salad, while generously portioned and attractively plated, was less succulent than other meat dishes.

KEBABS FIT FOR A SULTAN Kebabs are the obvious centerpiece of Royal Kebab’s offerings. The term “kebab” may

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THE TAKEAWAY

2

bring to mind lamb roasting on a spit, but it can refer to any kind of meat grilled on a skewer. Here, the kebabs are served in pairs, with chicken, gyro, koobideh and barg kebabs offered in six different combinations. During lunch, I conversed with two Iranian brothers who declared the restaurant’s kebabs to be the best in St. Louis.

I was blown away by the barg – succulent and well-seasoned chunks of steak – and koobideh – beef (or lamb) with parsley and onion minced to a hamburger-like consistency.

Listed as “barg and koodibeh” [2], this combination is sometimes aptly called soltani: the sultan’s meal. All kebabs are accompanied by chelo rice – boiled and pan-fried rice with an unusual, delicate texture – enlivened by saffron and sumac and topped with fat wedges of grilled tomatoes.

TURKISH SPECIALTIES

For inexpensive, authentic Middle Eastern food, Royal Kebab is hard to beat. Though the service might test your patience, the food will win you over. This is the kind of place for which the phrase “diamond in the rough” was invented.

For authenticity’s sake, I felt compelled to try the Turkish drink ayran. Yogurt-based, diluted with water and whisked, the chilled beverage sounds like the delicious Indian lassi, but had a lip-puckering amount of salt that threw me. The sweetened mango juice and other less exotic offerings might be more refreshing to those unaccustomed to the salty wash of ayran.

For dessert, I enjoyed freshly made zulbia (known elsewhere as jabeli) [3] – nest-like lattices of deep-fried dough soaked in rose water syrup. I couldn’t manage a whole zulbia, but had no difficulty making space for baklava. The syrup-soaked delicacy is preceded by a strong aroma of rose water and offers the right balance of sweetness and nuttiness.

August 2015

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August 2015

nightlife

reviews

Heavy Riff brewing co.

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

in easy-sipping, warm-weather options like the Single Successful Rye lager, Just That Simple Belgian tafelbier or the subtle and Heavy Riff refreshing Super Brewing Co. Session wheat 6413 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, beer. The complex heavyriffbrewing.com Argonaut APA is a citrusy option, suffering less than most American pale ales from an overdose of hops. With a smooth palate and zesty chocolate finish, the Velvet Underbrown ale is the real standout for those who like a substantial, but not overwhelming, brown.

It’s no surprise that this is the brewery’s flagship – I want a direct line to run from Dogtown to my kitchen.

There is also a nominal list of house wines and a more-than-adequate supply of midto higher-end hard stuff. The bar is wellstocked with whiskeys (primarily bourbons).

Easygoing bartenders are just as happy to mix a Manhattan as to pull a quick pint.

M

usic is not the only thing that rocks at Heavy Riff Brewing Co., an under-the-radar microbrewery in the heart of Dogtown where barbecue, booze and brews are served up to the beat of some serious tunes.

Depending on your musical taste and sensitivity, Heavy Riff either calls you in or kicks you out. The L-shaped taproom is dimly lit by a string of Edison bulbs hovering over the imposing, dark wood bar that appears straight out of a frontier saloon. A handful of signed guitars are mounted behind the massive bar with concert posters and rock art littering the walls. While the guitars are well-polished, the floors still need some work, and one wall sports a kicked-in dent. It’s refreshing to be in a hard-used space – Heavy Riff August 2015

is no kitschy theme bar, but a rough and authentic microbrewery.

A few high-top tables watch over a dartboard space off the entrance, and side booths flank a worn shuffleboard table in the back. With no stage and no established live acts, Heavy Riff focuses on its digital soundtrack, which is well-curated with more than 1,500 songs – they don’t just loop rock gods’ greatest hits. Forgotten tracks abound, but it still manages not to be fussy or elitist. Expect to hear Rolling Stones juxtaposed with unplugged Nirvana, followed by some Pokey Lafarge or Oasis.

Like the music, the beers are anything but snobby, served in 10-ounce pours and full pints. Session drinkers will revel

Barbecue options dominate the food menu. Everything down to chili and salads is served with smoked meats (or fauxmeats, if that’s your thing). While not a barbecue destination spot, Heavy Riff’s food holds its own. Ordering from the bar, patrons can indulge in cheesy, smoked pulled pork nachos or slow-smoked beef brisket on kaiser rolls. The best of the starters was the tomato-based brisket chili with a devilishly spicy finish that begs for a gulp of beer. The smoked Asian pork wrap was also a winner: tender hunks of pulled pork snuggled in a flour tortilla with crispy coleslaw doused in a creamy Vietnamese pepper sauce.

Neither a singles bar, nor a college hangout, Heavy Riff prioritizes quality over quantity. The laidback, rock ’n’ roll Bierhall atmosphere draws in a regular T-shirt-andjeans crowd. This isn’t the bar you stop in for dollar longnecks, but at the same time it does have a Fireball Whiskey machine.

While it may not be the best place to hold a deep conversation on literature or quantum physics, Heavy Riff is a nice spot to connect with friends, listen to good music and relax.

ORDER IT: Heavy Riff Brewing Co.

From left, Velvet Underbrown is a standout ale while the Super Session wheat is a refreshing summer beer option.

The smoked Asian pork wrap is a fine choice among the barbecue options that dominate the food menu.

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dine

& drink

Check out Glenn Bardgett's pick for a peachy white wine

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake If you look forward every August to juicy, ripe white peaches from Calhoun County, Illinois, 2013 Cline Cellars Cashmere White should be on your shopping list. This well-balanced GLENN BARDGETT blend from Sonoma holds Member of the Missouri Wine 43 percent chardonnay, and Grape Board and wine and the remainder is director at Annie Gunn’s filled out with pinot gris, muscat canelli and viognier.

Succulent peach and pear flavors, a floral aroma and slight residual sugar make this $17 bottle a fabulous go-to white, whether you’re at the pool, on a picnic or parking yourself in front of the TV with a box of spicy Chinese takeout.

August 2015

We love innovative new products, especially when they’re local.

One that impresses is Pinckney Bend Cask Finished Gin. The oak cask finishing adds light sweetness and vanilla touches to a gin base that holds citrus, floral and subtle juniper notes. This TED AND JAMIE versatile gin can be the star in a KILGORE G&T or the surprise substitute USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart in a bourbon cocktail. Try it in a and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House Gin Brown Derby: In a shaker, combine 2 ounces gin, ¾ ounce grapefruit juice and ½ ounce honey syrup (Heat equal parts honey and water until the honey dissolves and let cool.). Add ice, shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.

One of the best things about the explosion of craft breweries is the rise of the brewpub. Beer has always been a social product, and now that most Americans live within 10 miles of a CORY KING brewery, it’s easy to grab a Certified Cicerone, head seat at the bar and sip in the brewer at Perennial Artisan company of the publican, Ales and founder of Side the brewer and passionate Project Brewing patrons. Visit The Civil Life Brewing Co. for its fine pub atmosphere, Earthbound Beer for the hipster vibe on Cherokee Street and Exit 6 Brewery for an escape to quaint Cottleville where a great selection of house and guest taps awaits. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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PAC K

A

COCKTAILS

PUNCH

BY D E E RYA N

The pick of the melon crop is the consolation prize for those stuck in town during scorching August. Here, thirst-quenching watermelon does double-duty as an ingredient in a margarita and a rustic punch bowl that’s sure to impress party guests. – Dee Ryan

WATERMELON-GINGER PUNCH 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

PHOTO BY SHERRIE CASTELLANO

1 7-to-8 lb. seedless watermelon 1 4-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces 1 cup silver tequila ¼ cup orange liqueur (such as Cointreau) ¼ cup lime juice 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. sugar 1 ∕8 tsp. ground ancho chile pepper 1 ∕8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 lime, cut into thin wheels 1 cup ginger beer (such as Fever-Tree) • Wash the outside of the watermelon. Cut off the top third of the watermelon and set aside. Trim a small slice of rind from the bottom of the larger section of watermelon to create a flat surface.

• Use a melon baller to form 10 watermelon balls.

Place on a parchment-lined tray and freeze.

• Scoop out the remaining flesh from both watermelon sections and place in a large bowl. Refrigerate the larger watermelon shell.

• Using a blender or food processer, work in batches to purée the watermelon flesh and the ginger. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl. Using a spoon or a rubber spatula, press out as much juice as possible (about 10 to 12 cups). Stir in the tequila, orange liqueur and lime juice. Refrigerate until chilled.

• Meanwhile, prepare the glasses. First, make a salt rim mixture by combining the salt, sugar, ground ancho chile and black pepper in a shallow saucer.

Set aside. Slide a lime wheel around the rim of each glass. Invert the glass so that the rim faces down at a 45-degree angle. Rest the outer rim of the glass on the salt mixture in the saucer and rotate until coated.

Repeat with the remaining glasses.

• To serve, stir the punch and pour it into the chilled watermelon shell. Top with the ginger beer and the frozen watermelon balls. Ladle the punch into the glasses and garnish each with a lime wheel.

August 2015

Watermelons abound at farmers markets this month.

Look for ripe, juicy melons from Iron Hill Farm at the Webster Groves Farmers Market on Thursdays and at the Midtown Farmers Market on Saturdays.

PRO TIP

Never rim a glass by turning it upside down, dunking it in a liquid and then dipping the entire rim in a saucer filled with a salt or sugar mixture. The dry ingredient will coat the inside of the glass, fall into your drink and change its flavor. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

VEGETIZE IT

Key Lime Pie

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

K

ey lime pie is one of my favorite warm-weather desserts. It’s light and sweet but also tart, so I can only binge on half a pie before my lips pucker (portion control!). The traditional recipe is an involved, multistep affair that requires me to get up from my pool chair, separate eggs and make both a custard filling and – depending on which camp you’re in – either a touchy meringue or whipped cream topping. Creating an eggless vegan version means less work and more time for trashy magazine reading. Unfortunately, it also rules out sweet creamy condensed milk in the filling.

Hoping to find a suitable substitute and avoid a belly flop, I held my breath and dove into recipe development.

Hungry for more vegetarian dishes?

Go to samg.bz/ saucemeatless every Monday to check out our Meatless Monday column, where you’ll find recipes to prepare tasty vegetarian fare at home.

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My sloth-like summer self dearly wished to skip the pie crust-baking step, so I scoped out a premade graham cracker crust. Prepared crusts are the lazy baker’s equivalent of canned margaritas – too sweet, but they get the job done. Alas, graham crackers contain honey, so only embrace this effortless option if you’re not a strict vegan. Instead, I made an easy-breezy, oatmeal cookie-inspired vegan crust by pulsing chewy rolled oats, nutty quinoa flakes and sweet coconut in a food processor. A drizzle of melted vegan butter and pure maple syrup helped the crumb concoction stick together. The crust baked 10 minutes – just long enough to brown without heating the kitchen and melting the ice in my Lime-A-Rita.

For the filling, I needed freshly squeezed Key lime juice. Key limes look like little greenish-yellow golf balls – they’re smaller and rounder than their conventional cousins. Because they’re too tiny to juice with a hand reamer, I tossed eight whole Key limes into my gazillion-horse power juicer, which ground up the lime peels and made the juice so bitter that it was inedible. But when I cut them in quarters, the Key limes fit perfectly into my garlic press.

With a few squeezes, the press extracted the maximum juice out of the lovely limes, and – bonus! – also strained the seeds and pulp. Just make sure your press is clean and garlic-free, or your pie will be pungent.

To make eggless custard for the pie filling, I started with a mixture of ripe bananas and vanilla coconut milk yogurt, then added naturally sweet agave and the tangy lime juice. The combination was a tropical-tasting treat, but too watery to stand up in

August 2015

a pie. Blending in a dollop of velvety vegan cream cheese made the filling as thick as pudding. At this point, you can toss your pie in the refrigerator and go play in the sprinkler. But if you want a pie that holds its shape when you slice it, cover the pie with plastic wrap and freeze overnight, then let it thaw at room temperature for an hour before serving.

Some plant-based readers avoid fauxfood substitutes and would rather skip the vegan cream cheese. Since I’ve found success using a ripe avocado as the base for vegan chocolate mousse, I thought it could work its textural magic here. I blended avocado with the bananas, coconut milk yogurt, agave and lime juice. The result is a thick, limey filling with a serendipitous light green hue and zero avocado taste. The avocado-Key lime pie isn’t as milkytasting as the cream cheese version, but plant-based purists won’t regret it.

Instead of making meringue topping from egg whites, I whipped coconut cream. Coconut cream is the layer of dense, slightly nutty milk that rises to the top of chilled coconut milk cans, and is also available in full cans all on its yummy own. The whipped coconut milk isn’t as chewy as an egg white meringue, but it has the fluffy, rich mouth feel and subtle sweetness of real whipped cream. And since the topping isn’t baked, it doesn’t weep or pull away from the edges like eggy meringues are prone to do.

VEGAN KEY LIME PIE 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cup rolled oats (not instant or quickcooking) ¾ cup shredded unsweetened coconut ½ cup quinoa flakes 4 Tbsp. vegan butter, melted (such as Earth Balance Vegan Buttery Sticks) 1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 4 Tbsp. plain vegan cream cheesestyle spread (such as Daiya) or 1 ripe avocado, peeled and pitted 2 ripe bananas 12 oz. vanilla cultured coconut milk yogurt (such as So Delicious Dairy Free) ½ cup Key lime juice 4 Tbsp. amber agave nectar, divided 1 14-oz. can coconut cream 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 tsp. turbinado sugar 2 Key limes, quartered, for garnish • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Grease a 9-inch pie plate and set aside.

• For the crust: In a food processor, pulse the oats, coconut and quinoa flakes until the mixture is the texture of graham cracker crumbs. Add the

•

•

•

•

melted vegan butter and maple syrup and process until well blended. Press the oat mixture into the bottom and up the sides of the pie plate. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges are brown and the crust smells like a cookie. Let cool completely.

For the filling: Rinse the food processor bowl. Add the vegan cream cheese (or avocado) and bananas and pulse until only a few lumps remain. Add the coconut milk yogurt, Key lime juice and 2 tablespoons agave nectar and pulse until the mixture is creamy and no lumps remain. Adjust to taste with more lime juice or agave.

Pour the filling into the crust. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours for a pudding-like pie. For a sturdier texture, freeze overnight, letting it thaw at room temperature 1 hour before serving.

For the topping: Place the chilled coconut cream, vanilla extract and the remaining 2 tablespoons agave in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on high speed 3 to 5 minutes, until soft peaks form.

Completely cover the pie with dollops of the topping. Garnish with turbinado sugar and Key lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Sometimes omnivores worry that vegan cooking is too complicated, but when it comes to Key lime pie, avoiding the eggs means less time in the kitchen and more time in the deep end of summer.

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MAKE THIS SHRIMP SAGANAKI

MAKE THIS This traditional Greek dish can serve as an appetizer or light meal. The briny feta and olives are a perfect complement to the tomato-laden shrimp and best of all, there’s only one pan to clean. Start by heating ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add 1 cup thinly sliced shallots and saute 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 pound peeled, deveined, butterflied shrimp, 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes and ½ cup pitted, coarsely chopped kalamata olives. Reduce heat to medium, stir, cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in ¹∕³ cup chopped fresh dill, 4 ounces feta cheese and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with crusty bread or atop couscous. – Dee Ryan

ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Make this dish as beautiful as it is tasty by adding heirloom cherry tomatoes in colorful hues. Find them from Biver Farms at the Schlafly Farmers Market on Wednesdays and at the Midtown and Tower Grove farmers markets on Saturdays this month.

If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five.

Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.

August 2015

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W H E N

L I F E

G I V E S

Y O U

Oh zucchini … how you do go on (and on and on). Our favorite summer squash is taking over our gardens, and we can’t eat another bite of zucchini bread. If you’re in the same boat with too much of a good thing, check out these easy, unexpected ways to use up your zuccs.

BY KELLIE HYNES PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

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August 2015

zucchini carpaccio R EC I PE O N P. 37

Replace your usual salad course with this tangy appetizer, or double the recipe and serve with crusty bread for a simple, elegant lunch.

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zucchini escoveitch fish en papillote R EC I PE O N P. 37

Lighten this traditional Jamaican dish by steaming the fish in parchment paper instead of frying it.

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reci pes CHICKEN ZUCCHINI MEATBALLS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE 5 SERVINGS (ABOUT 25 MEATBALLS) It’s too hot for heavy food. Skip the beef and serve these chicken-based meatballs with a flavorful roasted red pepper sauce instead of the usual marinara.

1 medium zucchini (about ½ lb.) ¼ cup whole milk ½ cup panko 1 egg 2 Tbsp. finely chopped basil 3 tsp. minced garlic, divided 1 tsp. ground oregano 1 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. ground dark meat chicken 1 cup raw almonds 1 16-oz. jar roasted red peppers, drained 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and set aside.

• Trim the stem and root from the zucchini and discard. Using a food processor or box grater, grate the zucchini and roll it in a clean kitchen towel, pressing out as much moisture as possible, then set aside.

• In a small bowl, pour the milk over the breadcrumbs and set aside.

• In a large bowl, whisk the egg, basil, 2 teaspoons garlic, the oregano, onion powder, salt and pepper until blended.

Add the zucchini, ground chicken and breadcrumb-milk mixture. Using your hands, gently but thoroughly combine, then shape the mixture into 1½-inch meatballs and place on the baking sheet.

• Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the outside is lightly browned and the inside temperature reaches 165 degrees.

• While the meatballs cook, prepare the romesco sauce. In a dry skillet, toast the almonds over medium-high heat, shaking the pan frequently. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the almonds are lightly browned and smell toasted.

August 2015processor, pulse the toasted • In a food

almonds until finely chopped. Add the roasted peppers, the remaining 1 teaspoon minced garlic and the lemon juice and pulse until puréed. With the food processor running, slowly add the olive oil until the purée thickens.

• Serve the meatballs hot with the romesco sauce for dipping.

ZUCCHINI CARPACCIO 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 4 medium zucchini (about 1¹∕³ lbs.) ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. shaved Parmesan cheese ¼ tsp. truffle oil • Trim the stem and root from the zucchini and discard. Using a vegetable peeler or mandolin, shave the zucchini lengthwise into very thin slices. Discard the slices that are only dark peel and any that are heavily seeded. Place the remaining slices in a gallon-sized zip-close bag.

• In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, mint, thyme, salt and pepper.

Add the mixture to the bag, seal and shake to evenly distribute the marinade.

Marinate at room temperature 15 minutes.

• Arrange the zucchini on a serving plate and pour the marinade over the top.

Garnish with the shaved Parmesan and finish with a drizzle of truffle oil.

ZUCCHINI PARMESAN SOUFFLÉ 4 SERVINGS Who knew elegant brunch soufflés were so easy to make? Wow your guests with this seasonal take on a fool-proof favorite.

2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. unsalted butter, divided ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. grated Parmesan, divided 1 medium zucchini (about ½ lb.), peeled 1 cup whole milk ¼ cup flour 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh basil 2 tsp. ground mustard 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. onion powder ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 egg yolks 5 egg whites (preferably unpasteurized) ½ cup grated Gruyere

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 2-quart soufflé dish with 1 teaspoon butter. Dust the inside of the dish with 2 tablespoons Parmesan and shake out the excess. Set aside.

• Trim the stem and root from the zucchini and discard. Using a food processor or box grater, grate the zucchini and roll it in a clean kitchen towel, pressing out as much moisture as possible, then set aside.

• In a small pot, warm the milk over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally.

• In a large saucepan, make a roux by melting the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour, stirring constantly until the flour loses its raw smell, 2 to 3 minutes.

• Remove the roux from heat and stir in the warm milk, basil, mustard, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper. Return to medium heat, whisking constantly until it thickens and no lumps remain, about 3 minutes.

• Remove the mixture from heat and add the egg yolks one at a time, whisking until incorporated. Stir in the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan, the Gruyere and the zucchini. Set aside.

• Using a hand mixer on high speed, whip the egg whites until stiff, shiny peaks form, about 5 minutes. Gently fold the egg whites into the zucchini mixture, ¼ cup at a time.

• Lightly spoon the soufflé mixture into the prepared dish. Place the soufflé in the oven and reduce the heat to 375 degrees.

Bake 30 to 40 minutes, until the soufflé rises and the top is browned. Serve hot.

ZUCCHINI ESCOVEITCH FISH EN PAPILLOTE 4 SERVINGS

to taste. Top each fillet with 1 teaspoon butter. Set aside.

• Place the zucchini, carrot, onion and peppers in a quart-sized zip-close bag.

• In a small bowl, combine the water, vinegar, sugar and ¼ teaspoon salt. Add the mixture to the zip-close bag. Seal and shake the bag to evenly distribute the marinade. Marinate at room temperature 15 to 20 minutes.

• Drain the mixture in a fine-mesh strainer then evenly distribute the vegetables on top of the fillets.

• Seal the packets by bringing up the sides of the parchment paper and tightly folding them down. Tightly fold the two open ends.

• Place the packets on a baking sheet and bake 15 minutes.

• To serve, place each packet on a plate.

Use a knife to cut open, being careful to avoid escaping steam.

ZUCCHINI CRISP 6 SERVINGS This surprising dessert uses a whopping 3 pounds of zucchini. ¼ cup plus 1 tsp. unsalted butter, divided 6 medium zucchini (3 lbs.), peeled ¼ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 Tbsp. orange juice 1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided 1 tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. nutmeg ½ cup tightly packed brown sugar ½ cup old-fashioned oats ¼ cup flour

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease an 8-by-8-inch baking dish with 1 teaspoon butter and set aside.

• Trim the stem and root from the zucchini and discard. Cut in half lengthwise. Use the tip of a spoon to scrape out the seeds.

Chop the zucchini into ¾- to 1-inch pieces.

• Place the zucchini pieces in a large mixing bowl. Add the sugar, lemon juice, orange juice, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, vanilla and nutmeg. Stir until the zucchini is evenly coated, then pour into the prepared baking dish.

• In the same mixing bowl, combine the brown sugar, oats, flour and the remaining ½ teaspoon cinnamon. Cut the remaining ¼ cup butter into the mixture.

Using your hands, combine until the • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. mixture forms pea-sized lumps. Sprinkle • Cut 4 pieces parchment paper into 15-bythe mixture over the zucchini.

15-inch squares. Brush the center of the • Bake until the top is golden brown and parchment paper with the olive oil, then the zucchini softens, about 35 minutes. place a fillet in the center of each square.

Serve warm.

Season the fillets with salt and pepper saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37 1 Tbsp. olive oil 4 1½-inch thick white fish fillets, such as cod or halibut (about 2 lbs.) ¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste, divided Freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 tsp. unsalted butter, divided 1 medium zucchini (about ½ lb.), peeled and julienned ½ medium carrot, peeled and julienned ½ small white onion, thinly sliced ½ red bell pepper, julienned 1 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and minced ¾ cup water ¾ cup white wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar

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the

regular how jeff lehman became the patron saint of restaurants

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS | COMPOSITING BY PIXELOGRAPHY

J E F F L E H M A N H A S A S TA N D I N G R E S E R VAT I O N AT N I C H E E V E R Y S AT U R D AY N I G H T - A N D A N Y O T H E R NIGHT HE DESIRES . HE’S HAD DISHES NAMED IN H I S H O N O R AT G E R A R D C R A F T ’ S C E L E B R AT E D F L A G S H I P R E S TA U R A N T, A N D E V E N A N E P O N Y M O U S L EH M A N P R OJ EC T M EN U C O M P O S ED BY YO U N G C H EFS E AG ER TO P L E A S E H I M .

K

evin Nashan, chef-owner of Sidney Street Cafe and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., makes it his personal mission to impress Lehman’s wife, Laura, and keeps a list of her food preferences in the kitchen. Ben Poremba, chef-owner of Elaia, has Lehman taste dishes he’s still developing, just to obtain his valuable critique.

Many of us feel an affinity for a particular chef or restaurant. Jeff Lehman, 54, is the patron chefs revere right back. The list of food folk Lehman calls his good friends reads like a who’s who of the St. Louis culinary scene: Nashan, Poremba,

Jeff Lehman August 2015

Craft, Steve and Jamie Komorek (Trattoria Marcella and Mia Sorella), Mike Emerson (Pappy’s Smokehouse and its family of restaurants), Matt McGuire (Niche Food Group), Jim Fiala (Acero and The Crossing) and Sam Kogos (Riverbend), to name a few. Chat with Lehman about fine dining, and he cites chefs and restaurants in Los Angeles, Chicago and New York with the mastery of names, places and statistics typically exhibited by a Cardinals fan discussing baseball. Which is why, when Craft expressed an interest in molecular gastronomy, it was Lehman who procured reservations for the two of them at famed Chicago restaurants

Moto and Alinea. When the Komorek brothers dined at revered chef Daniel Boulud’s eponymous Daniel restaurant in NYC, it was Lehman who arranged their private tour with Boulud himself.

H

ow did Lehman, who Emerson dubbed “The Patron Saint of Restaurants,” become St. Louis’ most respected restaurant regular?

The first and most obvious answer is that Lehman frequents restaurants often. “Jeff loves food and eats out a lot. He’s a professional diner,” Nashan explained. Lehman can be found in

restaurants an average of four evenings per week, and he enjoys an equal or greater number of lunches out as well.

While many of his meals are at finer establishments, Lehman is also a fan of tasty, uncomplicated fare like Poremba’s Old Standard Fried Chicken and burgers at O’Connell’s Pub. Whether he’s enjoying a five-course prix fixe or a slice at The Good Pie (reopening soon as Randolfi’s), Lehman makes a point to build relationships with the hosts, servers and chefs who work there.

“I take a personal interest in what they’re interested in, whether it’s the restaurant business or their family. When you talk with them on a personal level, they see saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

Lehman gives his friends volumes from the illusive Imbocca collection – an outof-print series of Italian cookbooks with beautiful script and hand-painted artwork.

you as more than a customer,” Lehman said. “I engage with people.”

Lehman recounted the time he recognized Chicago Tribune food and wine columnist William Rice sitting next to him at renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s now-shuttered Vong restaurant in New York. Lehman tipped off the maitre d’ to Rice’s presence, and when Lehman returned to Vong for lunch later that week, Vongerichten approached him, asking for details on Rice’s dining experience. How did Vongerichten even recognize Lehman? They had met before, when Lehman attended one of his book signings at Williams-Sonoma in Frontenac; Lehman introduced himself and asked about the chef ’s endeavors in New York, Las Vegas and Chicago.

This resulted in an invitation to dine at Vongerichten’s three-star Michelin restaurant, Jean-Georges. Lehman did, taking the Komerek brothers with him.

The real question: how did Lehman recognize Rice from the Chicago Tribune?

When asked, Lehman shrugged and replied, “I’m good with names and faces.”

L

ehman’s also good at telling his friends the truth, “even if they don’t like what I have to say,” Lehman chuckled. Whether he’s discussing business plans or a special that tastes a little pedestrian, Lehman provides valuable, honest advice. “Jeff is supportive ... in that he patronizes the restaurants, and also that he gives good critical feedback,” Poremba said. “A good customer is someone who comes in often. A really good friend will always tell you the truth. Jeff is never condescending, but if something is off, he’ll politely let me know.”

Lehman never trained as a chef, but his culinary bona fides abound. He’s an

4 steps to becoming a regular 40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

1) Show up. “If someone patronizes a restaurant on a regular basis, then they are regulars.”

– Ben Poremba

2) Follow the Golden Rule. “Treat people how they want to be treated. When I’m at a restaurant, I behave like I’m in someone’s house.” – Jeff Lehman

enthusiastic home cook, first taught as a child by his aunt. International travel as an adult expanded his repertoire; a trip to Italy inspired Lehman to tweak his aunt’s bread and stewed tomatoes recipe into Pappa Al Pomodoro. “I’ve become a better cook because I’ll try to emulate things that I see in restaurants.

For example, I’m no longer intimidated by cooking fish. Now I’ll cook it in parchment paper or sear it and serve it with browned butter,” he said.

He credits travel as a business consultant for turning him into a restaurant aficionado. To this day, Lehman uses restaurants as a way to learn about a city’s culture when he travels. He’ll strike up a foodie conversation with people seated next to him on flights because, as he noted, everyone eats and most people like to talk about it. “If I’m sitting next to you, I’ll start talking to you. And one of the first questions I ask is, ‘Where do you like to go to eat?’ And then I’ll research it.”

Looking back on his early years as a road warrior, Lehman made a point to sample the local scene. “I could have stayed at the Marriott every night and had a Marriott burger. Instead, I started going to different restaurants every night and developing my palate. I wasn’t afraid to be a solo diner and I didn’t want to be bored.”

As a party of one, Lehman often sat at the counter where he could observe the inner workings of professional kitchens.

This, and operations management overall, piqued Lehman’s natural curiosity. He began to research the restaurant industry in his spare time. He studied food costs and front-of-house management, even watching hospitality conference videos for fun.

3) Be honest. “I want to hear the good, the bad and the ugly because I want to make things better.” – Kevin Nashan

4) Make conversation.

“Reach out a little bit.

Know your host, your server. Great regulars are people who take interest in the people who work there.” – Gerard Craft August 2015

After weekly meetings of his wine club, Lehman leaves esoteric bottles for the staff and kitchen to try.

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raft was the subject of Lehman’s research when the chef moved to St. Louis 10 years ago. Lehman knew he had worked at The Ryland Inn, a top fine-dining restaurant in New Jersey, and was eager to see what the young chef would bring to the St. Louis scene. “Niche was new and was doing things I hadn’t seen here before with their seasonal menu, so I called them,” Lehman said.

Craft remembered Lehman’s initial phone call with a little more anxiety. “We had just opened Niche. Suzie (Craft) answered the phones. Jeff said, ‘Tell Chef I’ve eaten at all the places he’s worked.’ I told Suzie, ‘Did you tell him it’s not like that? It’s not that fancy?’ I was worried Niche wouldn’t live up to his expectations,” Craft recalled. Now, the James Beard Award winner is proud to call Lehman a kindred spirit. “We’ve gone to dinner together.

We’ve gone to church together. We talk about the business. And then there’s the cookbook thing ...”

An avid cookbook collector, Lehman takes special delight giving chefs treasured references. “He helps us all.

He drops off a book here and there, everywhere,” Nashan said. Lehman is particularly adept at finding volumes in the illusive Imbocca series, an out-ofprint Italian cookbook collection filled with regional recipes, beautiful Italian script and hand-painted artwork.

Lehman’s hunt started years ago, when Steve Komorek asked for Lehman’s assistance finding the books. “I filled the collection for him. This was before eBay, so I used translation software to write to booksellers in Italy,” Lehman said. “Now if I can find one, I get it for the guys (Craft, Nashan and Poremba).

I keep track of them so I know which ones they need.”

Beyond gifting cookbooks, tales of Lehman’s benevolence abound.

He’s quick to buy drinks or dinner for servers and managers when he spots them dining out. After weekly meetings of his wine club, dubbed The X-pensive Winos (in honor of Keith Richard’s back-up band), Lehman leaves esoteric bottles for the staff and kitchen to try. “Some of these guys will never get to taste these wines because August 2015

they’re stupid expensive. But I’ve got it, and I’m not going to drink all of it by myself, so I’ll tell them to share it.”

Given his celebrated status in an industry filled with celebrities, it’s easy to cynically

Dine on Lehman’s Terms “CHICKEN AT BRASSERIE. Everyone is always so scared of French food, but this is just extremely well-executed roast chicken. There are days I crave that chicken.”

“If I see CRUDO or TARTARE on a menu, I will always order it. I’ve had it at Niche. Kevin Nashan did one with scallops. A perfect piece of fish treated gently with a little salt and a little oil is my favorite thing in life.”

imagine Lehman as a modern-day Medici, feeding his ego as well as his belly. But that’s not how his chef friends see him. “He’s kind and generous,” said Nashan. Craft concurred: “Jeff’s not a groupie. He doesn’t want anything except to be part of people’s lives.”

“MELANZANE ALLA PARMIGIANO at Trattoria Marcella is something that I crave. Simple, but Steve (Komorek) and his team have done it perfect for years. The way they treat it, you would never miss meat.”

Making people feel valued and special is something Lehman learned from his mother. “She taught me that if you can remember someone’s birthday or offer a word of encouragement or give them a little book, it lets them know you are thinking of them,” he said. “My mom was a single mom. I didn’t have a lot growing up, so now I enjoy being able to share things with others.”

“BUCATINI ALL’ AMATRICIANA I go to on a regular basis. Or, if you really want to be like me: CHITARRA WITH CLAMS at Pastaria. They do it with a white wine and chile, but I make them add some pomodoro to

According to his friends, Lehman’s prestige is a result of what he brings to the restaurant industry, and any benefits he receives are simply chefs trying to return the favor. While his dining budget is expansive, it’s his knowledge, sincerity and kindness that are truly endearing. His restaurant relationships are based on trust, respect and a love of good food. Which

means there’s plenty of room at the table for the rest of us to become regulars, too.

Ever wonder how you get a standing reservation or the best table at area restaurants? Listen to this month’s Sound Bites when dining king Jeff Lehman joins Sauce executive editor Ligaya Figueras to discuss the role customers play in shaping the dining landscape. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, Aug. 14 at noon and 10 p.m.

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CATCHING FIRE

'nduja from salume beddu

CHEFS SPREAD THE LOVE FOR SPICY ’NDUJA SALAMI PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

August 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

“We do Old World sausages with New World flare,” Sanfilippo said. “Our ’nduja isn’t like it is in Italy, and it shouldn’t be.”

Smoked beet salad with 'nduja vinaigrette at soon-to-open Reeds American Table

CONSIDER IT THE FERRARI OF CHARCUTERIE: FIERY, ITALIAN AND EVERYBODY WANTS IT. ’NDUJA (PRONOUNCED EN-DOO-YA) IS A SPICY, SPREADABLE SALAMI THAT LOOKS LIKE MEXICAN CHORIZO AND HAS AWARD-WINNING CHEFS AND IN-THE-KNOW HOME COOKS TURNING UP THE HEAT ON DISHES FROM PIZZA TO F RIED EGGS. While ’nduja isn’t mainstream enough to warrant a place on the White Castle menu board, the rising popularity of hot sauces like Sriracha and the continued obsession with bacon makes this fierce pork sausage an odds-on favorite as the next thing to put on everything.

It’s not just deep umami flavor that makes ’nduja so versatile. This southern Italian treat is spreadable. That may sound off-

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putting, but it allows ’nduja to be served right out of the package, on crostini at room temperature. Or it can be heated until the fat melts, deepening the flavor and pairing well with tomato sauce or a couple slices of cheese like ricotta salata.

Hailing from Calabria, Italy (the toe of the boot that kicks Sicily), ’nduja was originally – as most good things seem to be – peasant food. Traditionally, ’nduja was a mix of pork parts priced right for the hoi polloi, including fatty scraps and shoulder trimmings and sometimes pieces from the head and throat. After finely grinding the pork, the Calabrians would season the meat with the region’s characteristically molten-hot red chiles, then stuff it into a broad section of pig intestine before slow-fermenting and curing the sausage for a month. The ancient result was a kidney-shaped, deep crimson, hell fire-flavored sausage that could be smeared on bread, mixed into pasta sauce or heated and added to just about any dish that cooks wanted to taste like an erupting Mt. Vesuvius.

Current iterations, like that at local salumeria Salume Beddu, replace the

It may not be exactly like its Calabrian counterpart, but Sanfilippo’s ’nduja has received the seal of approval from Italian ex-patriot customers, local chefs and national distributors. Eataly in Chicago, a massive market and collection of restaurants featuring high-end Italian food and beverages, buys ’nduja from Salume Beddu, as does highly acclaimed food and wine boutique Picnic in Seattle. Since Salume Beddu started making the sausage three years ago, demand has quadrupled, and the shop now cranks out a 200-pound batch twice a month compared to 200 pounds every other month in 2012.

While Salume Beddu continues to churn out the popular meat spread, the versatility of ’nduja is on full display at restaurants around town. Niche Food Group owner Gerard Craft tempers ’nduja’s heat at Pastaria by pairing it with fresh mozzarella and a drizzle of honey on the Salume Beddu Pizza.

“I’ve always loved ’nduja. It’s chileforward, fatty and spreadable,” Craft said. “I’m also a huge fan of salty-sweet and spicy-sweet flavor combinations. The ’nduja on the pizza is very spicy, and the mozzarella cools the heat. It all balances.”

It may be spicy, but ’nduja is not hot for the sake of being hot. Well-balanced, it allows the flavor of the pork to come through while providing a simmering, lava-like burn that lingers pleasantly on the palate. To complement the fiery meat, Scott Monteith, chef at newly opened Cellar House in Oakville, uses naan as a flatbread canvas for ’nduja. “It’s so different and unique,” Monteith said. “We render it over low heat with high-quality olive oil and a little chicken stock so it’s more spreadable. We layer it on the flatbread, then thinly sliced pears, blue cheese crumbles and pistachios roughly ground in a food processor.” After baking, the flatbread gets a drizzle of local honey.

Katie Collier, owner of Katie’s Pizza & Pasta in Rock Hill, stays true to ’nduja’s Italitan heritage by adding dollops of the salami to carbonara sauce before pouring that over fresh, house-made paccheri pasta and crowning the dish with pea shoots and leeks.

“I like ’nduja with the carbonara because it seems classic,” Collier said. “I really like spicy food, and it has a smoky heat that is unique and has a beautiful color.” ’Nduja’s adaptable qualities lend it to more than just classic Italian fare.

Grapeseed’s Ben Anderson serves ’ndujacrusted halibut, creamed corn and baby patty pan squash for an umami spicy splash against the mild flavor and flakiness of the fish and sweetness of the corn.

All-purpose ’nduja also made its way into a breakfast pastry when Stephanie Fischer, pastry chef and co-owner of Comet Coffee, discovered Salume Beddu’s product and was struck by its smearable quality, which makes it “fun to play around with.”

Fischer rolls the sausage with a couple pieces of ricotta salata, lemon zest and honey in her house-made crescent rolls for a flaky, soft alarm clock for the taste buds.

“The sausage has a good amount of fat, so that renders into the buttery crescent dough during baking,” Fischer said. “The dairy in the crescent and the ricotta salata temper the heat.” ’Nduja’s texture allows it to mix easily into an unexpected vinaigrette. Chef Matt Daughaday will pair the spicy vinaigrette with the sweet earthiness of a smoked beet salad when his Reeds American Table opens later this month at 7322 Manchester Road in Maplewood. Daughaday also recommended using the vinaigrette at home on grilled fish or roasted pork.

“I’ve worked with smoked beets for a long time,” said Daughaday. “A friend introduced me to Salume Beddu’s ’nduja.

I like it because it is something different that works really well with the beets.”

Slather it, render it or mix it in. However connoisseurs of capsaicin and fans of flavor apply ’nduja next, the versatile, just-this-side-of-addictive salami is poised to be the hottest Italian import since the classic supercar 458. Buckle in.

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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

offal with pork shoulder for taste, richness and because some traditional parts aren’t available in the United States. Salume Beddu’s rendition also replaces the Calabrian chile with a cayenne-type called goat horn, Santa Fe, New Mexico’s Chimayan chiles and some chiles that Salume Beddu owner Mark Sanfilippo laughingly called “secret” and would not disclose.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

'Ndujacrusted halibut at Grapeseed

August 2015

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*Available at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta, 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com

’NDUJA FLATBREAD Courtesy of Cellar House’s Scott Monteith 2 SERVINGS paccheri pasta with 'nduja carbonara, at katie's pizza & pasta

R EC I PES PACCHERI PASTA WITH ’NDUJA CARBONARA, LEEKS AND PEA SHOOTS Courtesy of Katie’s Pizza & Pasta’s Katie Collier 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

2 Tbsp. ’nduja 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 leek, julienned Kosher salt to taste Fresh ground black pepper to taste 3 cloves garlic, diced 1 lb. fresh paccheri pasta* 2 egg yolks, beaten ½ cup grated ParmigianoReggiano Handful micro pea shoots to garnish • Bring a large stockpot of salted water to boil.

• Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, pulse together 1 cup butter and the ’nduja until smooth. Set aside.

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• In a large saute pan, warm the oil over high heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper and saute until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and cook until the butter foams but does not brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and the ’nduja butter and stir 2 minutes.

• Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce, tossing gently.

Remove from heat and let rest 30 seconds.

• Add the egg yolks and Parmigiano-Reggiano and

¼ cup roasted, salted pistachios, shelled 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 3 to 4 Tbsp. ’nduja 1 5- to 7-inch loaf naan 1 Anjou pear, cored and thinly sliced ¼ cup blue cheese crumbles Organic honey to taste • Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.

• In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the pistachios until there is an equal mix of small pieces and fine powder. Set aside.

• In a small nonstick skillet, warm the oil over low heat.

Add the ’nduja, gently break it up with a wooden spoon and cook until the fat renders, 3 to 5 minutes.

• Place the naan on a baking sheet. Spread the warm ’nduja atop the naan, leaving a ¼-inch edge.

Cover with the pear slices and sprinkle with the blue cheese crumbles and crushed pistachios.

• Bake 8 to 12 minutes.

Remove from the oven and drizzle with honey to taste.

SPICY ’NDUJA VINAIGRETTE Courtesy of Reeds American Table’s Matt Daughaday 3 CUPS ¾ cup plus 1½ Tbsp. olive oil ¼ cup plus ½ Tbsp. canola oil 1 shallot, minced 3 Tbsp. ’nduja Zest and juice of 1 orange 1½ cups Champagne vinegar Pinch of kosher salt • In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and canola oil to blend.

• In a medium saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons blended oil over mediumlow heat. Add the shallot and ’nduja. Gently break up the ’nduja with a wooden spoon and cook until the fat renders, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

• Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, make a vinaigrette by whisking together the orange zest, orange juice, vinegar and salt. Set aside.

• Whisk the remaining 1 cup blended oil into the cooled ’nduja mixture, then slowly whisk in the vinaigrette.

• Use immediately or cover and refrigerate overnight so the flavors meld. Serve over smoked beets, grilled fish or roasted pork.

B U Y T H I S ’Nduja is available at Salume Beddu, 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.3100, salumebeddu.com

August 2015

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

toss until the noodles are coated. Season to taste with salt.

• Divide the pasta among serving bowls and garnish with the pea shoots and a drizzle of olive oil.

August 2015

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STUFF TO DO:

THIS MONTH

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

Alpha Brewing Co. Beer Dinner Aug. 10 – 6 p.m., Hiro Asian Kitchen, 1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4476, hiroasiankitchen.com Alpha Brewing Co. teams up with Hiro Asian Kitchen for an evening of five Asian fusion courses paired with brews. Korean fried chicken and an American Kellerbier start the evening, followed by a Tokyoinspired hot dog paired with Alpha’s Game Day Red. Look also for Thai mussels matched with a sour saison and a char sui pork belly banh mi served with an Olympic IPA. Tickets available online.

Cajun Beer Garden at Pere Marquette Aug. 16 – noon to 4 p.m., Pere Marquette Lodge, 13653 Lodge Blvd., Grafton, Illinois, 618.786.2331 x0, pmlodge.net Let the good times roll when Pere Marquette Lodge hosts a Southern-style summer party. Music from The Creole Playboys serves as the festive backdrop for the main event: a traditional crawfish boil. Feast on spiced corn, potatoes and crawfish and cool off with Louisianaborn Abita beers in a special Biergarten. Two additional full bars will serve other beers, wine and cocktails. Reservations are not required, but bring a blanket or chairs in case the patio fills up.

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Po’boy Festival Aug. 21 – 6 to 11 p.m. and Aug. 22 – 1 to 11 p.m., Broadway Oyster Bar, 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com No matter how you stuff it, po’boys are an iconic Louisiana sandwich, and Broadway Oyster Bar is celebrating them with a festival. At least 11 po’boys will be available to choose from, including the oysters Rockefeller prepared with fried oysters, bacon, spinach cream sauce and Parmesan aioli. The Thanksgiving po’boy will make a summer appearance filled with sausage stuffing, turkey, gravy, cranberry sauce and pepper mayo.

Festival of Nations Aug. 29 – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Aug. 30 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, festivalofnationsstl.org Tower Grove Park will become a global marketplace with more than 40 food booths featuring eats from around the world. Try Ethiopian dishes such as doro wat and injera or Filipino kebabs and more, and explore at 35 vendor booths selling African drums, hand-made saris and Turkish jewelry. Make sure you grab a copy of the latest Festival of Nations cookbook to travel the world in your kitchen, too.

August 2015

Alton Food Truck Festival Aug. 29 – 4 to 8 p.m., Liberty Bank Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, Illinois, libertybankamphitheater.com Nearly 20 food trucks are cruising over the Mississippi River to the Alton Food Truck Festival. Head down to the Liberty Bank Amphitheater to nosh on street eats from mobile eateries like Revel Kitchen, Twyford’s BBQ & Catering and Smokin’ Monkey and enjoy live music from The Jumbo Shrimp Band and St. Louis bluesman Marquis Knox. Bring blankets and lawn chairs and settle in for an afternoon of delicious food along the river.

North City Farmers Market Saturdays – 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., St. Louis Avenue and North 14th Street, St. Louis, 314.241.5031 x102, northcityfarmersmarket.blogspot.com Farmers markets abound in summer, but only one is situated across the street from the legendary Crown Candy Kitchen. The North City Farmers Market operates every Saturday, and while vendors vary from week to week, frequent shoppers can expect to find produce from MK Fruits and Veggies and 13th Street Community Garden, coffee from La Mancha Coffee and crafts from local artisans. Grab a Crown Candy milkshake and stroll, browse and buy local.

sponsored events St. Louis Craft Beer Week Through Aug. 2, multiple locations, stlbeerweek.com Two days of sudsy festivities remain in St. Louis Craft Beer Week. Sample local brews at events like B33r and Brats at 33 Wine Bar or the Firkin Fest at iTap in Soulard on Saturday, Aug. 1. On Sunday, Aug. 2, get tickets for the culimination of the week’s festivities: Schurcipefones Festival, a block party with unlimited samplings of special release beers from Schlafly, 2nd Shift, Civil Life and more.

Downtown Restaurant Week Aug. 3 to 9, particpating restaurants, downtownrestaurantweek.net Enjoy a night on the town during Downtown Restaurant Week. Partake in an old favorite or try a new, up-and-coming restaurant. For $25, you get a threecourse meal from 400 Olive, Alumni St. Louis, Budweiser Brew House or 21 other downtown eateries.

Food Truck Friday Aug. 14 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com More than 20 food trucks plan to park it at Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Friday, including Chop Shop, Bombay Food Junkies and The Fire & Ice Cream Truck. Grab local brews from Urban Chestnut and 4 Hands and stop by the Sauce tent to purchase Speed Passes, which enable holders to use expedited lines for ordering. Come early and bring lawn chairs, blankets, kids and dogs and enjoy the sounds of The Bottoms Up Blues Gang.

Rise Up Festival Aug. 21 – 4 to 11 p.m., 1627 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.333.7008, risestl.org Head downtown to the Rise Up Festival, an outdoor event showcasing 15 area artists and crafters and 10 downtown area eateries.

While you snack, enjoy beer from Urban Chestnut, live music from Dirty Muggs and performances from Circus Kaput.

Midtown Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: Midtown Farmers Market Summer’s bounty is at its peak this month at Midtown Farmers Market. Pick up organic apples from Red Hawk Acres, ground cherries and organic artichokes from Biver Farms and peaches from Pasheek Produce.

Save the date for the Watermelon Festival Aug. 15, featuring melon-themed crafts for kids and a seed-spitting contest.

Tower Grove Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Shop local and enjoy the pick of summer produce at Tower Grove Farmers Market.

Among the 50 vendors, look for eggs from Live Springs Farm, a peck of peppers from Buila Family Farms and fresh-cut flowers to brighten your day from Urban Buds. Arrive early to join in a free yoga session.

Denotes a Sauce sponsored event August 2015

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Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, 636.797.8686, wildsunwinery.com

Mark Baehmann

For more than 30 years, Mark Baehmann has been turning grape juice into vino at Missouri wineries like Montelle, Robller, Mount Pleasant and, most recently, Chaumette. Now, he and business partner Ed Wagner are striking out on their own with Wild Sun Winery, opening in late August on a 10-acre property in Hillsboro.

How did you get interested in winemaking? I dropped out of college to figure my life out. I applied for a job as a cellar master at Montelle Winery. Communion wine – that’s all I knew. I was barely of drinking age.

Clayton Byers (Montelle’s founder) sat me down on a picnic table and opened a bottle of Cynthiana. This man had such passion in his voice, such a romance

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when it came to wine, that I said, “I want to know more.”

What’s your winemaking philosophy?

Keep it simple. When you keep it simple you let the fruit show itself. If you do too much – baby the wine too much, touch it too much – you run the risk of taking things away from that wine.

Is winemaking an art and a science?

Absolutely. I think we should rack it now, I think we should take it off the oak, I think we should leave it on the skins longer – that’s the art, the unknown gut feel that I have. And when someone says, “Why did you decide to do that?” I don’t know. It was a feeling.

What’s something most people don’t know about Missouri wine? It is night and day from the ’80s to present day. I still hear that a lot of people have not tried Missouri wines because of their experience from the ’80s, but the wines have gotten markedly better.

What wine do you drink? I drink from all over, and I typically don’t drink my own.

In my very early days of winemaking, we went to a winery, and the wine wasn’t very good. The guy never drank any wine other than what he made, so he acquired a taste for what he was making. That scared me. I want my palate to be fresh.

Why start your own winery now? God’s timing. He’s finally allowing it. This has not been the first attempt. I have been involved in all aspects of owning a winery from working the tasting bar, working in the vineyards, making the wine, running a wine club, talking to customers – I loved it all. But when you work for someone else, you find yourself saying, “I think I could do this better.”

How do you plan to distinguish Wild Sun from other Missouri wineries? We are going to focus on our wines. We are not a restaurant. We’re not a vineyard. We’re in long-term contracts with grape growers

from Missouri. And we’re going to focus on our customer base, that customer that wants to learn about wine.

What have you learned most about the world of wine in your 30-year career?

There’s something about wine that is so darn romantic – the passion that comes out of a glass. I know what wine can do to transform an evening or a conversation or just someone’s enjoyment in a product that gives more than it takes.

What wine are you most proud of making? When a wine is successful.

When there’re 300 people on my patio having a great time, that’s a good wine.

If it wins a medal, it means a handful of judges liked it, and that’s a good thing, but I don’t take it as success. The wine that stands out is the wine we made that christened the Harry S. Truman aircraft carrier: a bottle of Genesis, champagne that we made at Mount Pleasant.

– Ligaya Figueras August 2015

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

WHAT I DO

August 2015

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