August 2017

birthday cake beyond shake from beyond sweet, p. 32

SWEET DREAMS 3 PLACES TO

YO U R N E W FAVO R I T E

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TRY THIS MONTH

BREAKFAST SANDWICH

TWISTED TREE STEAKHOUSE

P. 10

P. 9

P. 15

ST. LOUIS’ August 2017 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

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contents

crab rangoon at twisted tree steakhouse, p. 15

AUGUST 2017

editors' picks

25 ELIXIR

9 E AT THIS

by heather hughes

The classic breakfast sandwich

by heather hughes 10

HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month

by heather hughes and catherine klene 12

3 fail-safe wine regions to remember

26 EFFICIENT KITCHEN Roasted beets

by kellie hynes 29 MAKE THIS Blackberry jam

by dee ryan

CHEF TOUR Chris Ladley and Wil Pelly

by matt sorrell

reviews 15 N E W AN D NOTABLE Twisted Tree Steakhouse

by michael renner 18 LUNCH RUSH Rise Coffee House

by stephanie zeilenga 21 NIGHTLIFE The Monocle

by andrew barrett

last course 44 STUFF TO DO by caitlin lally, micki wagner and rachel wilson 46 WHAT I D O Colleen Clawson

by catherine klene

features 32 FREAKSHAKES

by matt sorrell 34 OFF THE VINE 7 tomato recipes to try now

by marianne moore

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

dine & drink 23 A SE AT AT THE BAR Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

COVER DETAILS SWEET DREAMS The Birthday Cake Beyond Shake from Beyond Sweet. Learn more about trendy, over-the-top freakshakes on p. 32.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

August 2017

CORRECTION: In the July 2017 issue, we incorrectly stated that Half & Half’s second location is opening in Kirkwood on p.

11. It is opening in Webster Groves. We also misspelled John Bogacki’s last name on p. 50.

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

Do not be deceived by the menu of add-ons at KITCHEN KULTURE’S THE KART stand at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. There is only one way to order THE CLASSIC BREAKFAST SANDWICH: with everything. Thick, soft slices of sourdough bread are sprinkled with sea salt and topped with sharp cheddar, a fried farm egg, crisp strips PHOTO CARMEN TROESSER

of applewood-smoked bacon and a drizzle of local honey. The whole salty-sweet-rich extravagance is drenched in butter and griddled. Ignore the $12 price tag – no basic breakfast would get us up this early on a Saturday morning.

KITCHEN KULTURE’S THE KART, TOWER GROVE FARMERS’ MARKET, TOWER GROVE PARK, KOUNTERKULTURESTL.COM August 2017

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hit list 3 new places to try this month

You don’t have to love hockey to enjoy Center Ice Brewery. Themed touches – like the low rink wall surrounding the brewing equipment and a penalty box, main bar, tables and tap handles all made in part with material reclaimed from the old St. Louis Arena – lend personality without descending into kitsch. Pull up a stool and order a Hop Shelf IPA from the brewery’s house menu (supplemented by locals like Main & Mill and Charleville Brewing Co.), or opt for the light, summery Off Season Saison to beat the heat.

You’ve got a new spot to watch the Blues, but there’s no need to wait for the season opener.

CENTER ICE BREWERY

3126 Olive St., St. Louis, centericebrewery.com

The Mad Crab brings a classic Gulf meal to the Midwest with builtto-order seafood boils. Settle in at a paper-lined table, then consult with your dining partners and strategize the best combination of market-priced seafood available. Will you try meaty mussels with fresh crawfish or go all out with whole lobster and snow crab legs? Don’t forget to throw in the requisite potatoes and corn on the cob, then turn your attention to the sauces or combine all three in The Whole Sha-Bang for a buttery, garlicky, spicy punch. Don your plastic bibs and grab your crab crackers (or use your bare hands) to devour the shellfish feast with messy abandon.

Our only advice: Don’t wear white.

It’s good to be a third wheel in St. Peters. Snag a seat at the massive horseshoe-shaped bar and watch brewer and co-owner Abbey Spencer at work through picture windows overlooking the city’s first brewery. Order one of the house brews like the Dyslexic API, an Imperial IPA dry-hopped with Columbus and Simcoe, or the lighter Ophelia’s Wit, a traditional witbier with coriander, orange peel and rosemary. For a German summer experience, sip Going Once… Going Twice… – a flight of four 4-ounce pours of Third Wheel’s Berliner Weiss mixed with a rotating selection of traditional syrups like mint, mulberry or woodruff.

8080 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.801.8698, Facebook: The Mad Crab

4008 N. Service Road, St. Peters, 636.323.9810, thirdwheelbrewing.com

seafood boil at the mad crab center ice brewery

third wheel brewing dyslexic API

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THIRD WHEEL BREWING

August 2017

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

THE MAD CRAB

August 2017

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sarma at grbic restaurant

from top: burger at sandrina’s, mai lee

C H R I S L A D L E Y A N D W I L P E L LY

Both longtime fixtures in the restaurant industry, Wil Pelly of Nudo House and Chris Ladley of Snax Gastrobar have been friends since the early 2000s, when they spent most their time hanging out at local music venues like the late, great Hi-Pointe. “If you saw one of us at a bar or a show, you’d see the other one,” Ladley said. On rare days off they can still be found side by side at these St. Louis favorites known for good food and cheap drinks.

Sophie’s Place “It’s most definitely a dive bar,” Pelly said. “It’s pure South City.” While hardly haute cuisine, there’s something out most days – from chili dogs to a crockpot of mysterious origins – to help customers soak up the alcohol. Along with the plentiful drinks and lowbrow snacks, the duo likes the fact that

they can slip in, chill out and take their chef hats off a while. 2815 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.645.4033, Facebook: Sophie’s Place Sandrina’s After a hard night on the line, Ladley and Pelly head to Sandrina’s for some

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Busch and Beam.

“Sandy’s is always our late-night spot because they’re open till 3 a.m.,” Ladley said. “And it’s three blocks from my house.

I walk out of the parking lot, point my head downhill and let gravity take me home.”

5098 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.601.3456, sandrinasstl.com

Grbic Restaurant Pelly discovered Grbic while he was living in the Bevo neighborhood.

“The sarma is like heaven on earth,” he said. A ground beef and rice mixture is wrapped in cabbage leaves and braised in a savory broth, then topped with tomato sauce and served with whipped potatoes on side.

4071 Keokuk St., St. Louis, 314.772.3100, grbicrestaurant.com

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

chef tour

the face of the earth,” Ladley cited as the main reason why these two so often post up at the restaurant. But also the food. “I’ve never ordered the same entree there twice,” Ladley said. He recommended the vit ca ry (duck curry soup) as a fine starting point for novices. 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com

SOHA Bar & Grill The drinks are plentiful and cheap at this watering hole with a huge beer selection of some 40 or so taps in addition to another 40 cans and bottles, though Ladley usually just opts for a can of his beloved Busch and a Tullamore D.E.W. back. Pelly said the kitchen pumps out some serious eats as well. “Their food is nuts,” he said. “The dirty hot wings are great and the pretzels are super crispy.” 2605 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.802.7877, sohabar.com

Mai Lee “Qui [Tran, of Mai Lee and Nudo House] is the greatest human being to ever walk August 2017

August 2017

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

filet oscar style at twisted tree steakhouse

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

twisted tree steakhouse

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

What happens when two sons from successful restaurateur families – one from the city, the other from the country – collaborate to open a steakhouse?

new and notable TWISTED TREE STEAKHOUSE p. 15 / lunch rush RISE COFFEE HOUSE p. 18 / nightlife THE MONOCLE p. 21 August 2017

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served with a plum sweet and sour and a horseradish Dijonnaise – it’s what I wish the Chinese takeout joint down the street delivered (or not – since I’d be tempted to order it every night).

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

Twisted Tree’s salad of fresh, crisp greens plus trimmings is served family-style in a chilled bowl delivered to the table by cart, which I thought was about as much fun as could be derived from salad. But when I mixed the French and sweet onion vinaigrette dressings (highly suggested by our server), tossed in a few warm garlic croutons and sprinkled on some feta cheese, vegetable duty faded to desire. The accompanying warm, crusty bread and whipped butter contributed to my unexpected salad-eating frenzy.

All of Twisted Tree’s beef is prime Black Angus from Creekstone Farms in Kansas. The restaurant more than triples the typical 30 to 45 day aging time for steaks – exact numbers are posted on several chalkboards. On one visit, the 18-ounce, 1½ inch-thick strip my table shared had aged 145 days, or nearly five months. I didn’t know what to expect from such a startling age. Would the big steak be shriveled to the size of a hockey puck? Would there be too much funk?

What we ate was a deeply crimson piece of meat with beautifully even char from a flattop grill, a dense texture and intense beefiness. The extended dry-wet aging process used to control all that enzymeon-meat action added a markedly musky, mushroomy note without losing juiciness.

the dining room at twisted tree steakhouse

With six eponymous restaurants, plus Helen Fitzgerald’s, the Syberg name is as familiar to St. Louisans as Ted Drewes and Budweiser. Before a 2012 fire destroyed it, the Abbadessas’ The Pear Tree Restaurant in Bevier drew diners from well beyond its isolated location between Columbia and Kirksville. It’s no wonder, then, that Kirk Syberg and Mike Abbadessa hit it off well enough to want to open a steakhouse when the time was right.

The time came just more than a year ago when the pair opened a joint venture along an original stretch of Route 66 at the corner of Watson Road and Lindbergh Boulevard in Sunset Hills.

The unassuming, 9,100-square-foot space next to a Holiday Inn is now Twisted Tree

AT A GLANCE twisted tree steakhouse August 2017

Steakhouse – a name honoring both the old Pear Tree and the partnership between the two families, like interwoven trees.

Calling Twisted Tree a throwback to bygone steakhouses like Jack’s Gourmet Restaurant in Columbia, The Potted Steer in Osage Beach or Golden Ox Restaurant & Lounge in Kansas City isn’t quite accurate. It’s a reincarnation, of sorts – as if remnants of The Pear Tree were brushed off for a new home. Like the signature onion rings: a tower of sweet onions dipped in a batter so light and crispy I thought of tempura.

The recipe dates back to the old restaurant’s founding in 1986 (don’t mess with success).

Or the crab Rangoon appetizer, which was also transferred from The Pear Tree. Filled with chunks of luscious crabmeat and

Where 10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills, 314.394.3366, twisted treesteakhouse.com

The signature steak and batter-dipped lobster tail comes with your choice of roasted prime rib or filet mignon paired with a fresh 6-ounce deep-fried lobster tail encased in the same crisp, golden jacket as those mandatory onion rings. Filet mignon is the khaki pants

Don’t Miss Dishes Onion rings, surf and turf, any featured fish

Vibe Homespun Americana steakhouse minus the clubby environs

of steaks, but 70-day aging made it even more buttery and yielding (without going mushy) and added a mellow nutty flavor to the typically boring cut. Prime rib is naturally more flavorful due to its higher fat content and roasting, and also conveyed distinct earthy notes from aging. Both may be ordered as individual entrees as well.

Just because steaks are in the name doesn’t mean other Twisted Tree entrees should be ignored. The house-made tagliatelle special, tossed with heirloom squash and corn in a cauliflower cream sauce, appointed with five perfectly seared scallops, was the surprise dish during one visit. Someone at your table should order whatever fresh fish is featured. The woodfired striped bass was another standout special, delicately crispy from aromatic bread crumbs, served on a summery bed of local black kale, beets, pine nuts and cherry tomatoes. Desserts are all made inhouse, including ice cream and almondtinged white wedding cake. A local berry tart with vanilla ice cream during one visit provided bright, ringing summer flavors.

Rather than dark paneling and red banquettes, the main dining room is outfitted with reclaimed wood and raised booths. Multiple old St. Louis alcohol signs and an impressive beer can display convey more Americana than clubby steakhouse. One of our table’s wags said it was like Cracker Barrel meets your dad’s man cave, but service is at a high level – attentive without being intrusive.

Despite my superb meals at Twisted Tree, my favorite aspect of each visit was the most whimsical: The trundling wheeled carts equipped with hot plates to finish off steaks tableside. Like the old-fashioned melt-in-your-mouth dinner mints served with the check, this is neither hipster kitsch nor an indulgent grasping back to the good old days. A pleasant surprise for diners, it’s done without a hint of nostalgia.

Entree Prices $19 to $55

When Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

rise coffee house

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Rise Coffee House in The Grove is one of those spots it simply feels good to be in. You step in the door and … exhale. What sets its quietly buzzing coffee shop vibe apart, however, are the brilliant dishes coming out of chef Scott Davis’ kitchen.

Previously of Brasserie by Niche, Elaia and Three Flags Tavern, Davis has created a deceptively simple menu of familiar cafe fare infused with fresh, bright flavors and unexpected textures.

Although Rise is consistently busy, orders fly out of the kitchen for both dine-in and to-go.

no element overshadowing another.

AVOCADO TOAST

THE LUNCH SANDWICH Even die-hard meat lovers will adore this vegetarian sandwich. Layers of crunchy, flavorful giardiniera, zesty arugula and clean cucumber rest between two pieces of crusty Union Loafers Light and Mild, a levain bread that’s slathered with a creamy cheddar spread – the perfect yin to the yang of the vinegary vegetables.

Sky-high sandwiches too mammoth to eat are a pet peeve of mine, but this is perfectly portioned with

As a stereotypical millennial, avocado toast is one of my favorite things, but I hardly order it out because, hello: toast bread, smash avocado, sprinkle salt. However, this is not your typical toast.

Smooth avocado is layered on Light and Mild and topped with a soft poached egg and a veritable garden of fresh herbs, peppery radishes, crunchy cucumber and a whisper of pickled white onion that provides an unexpected pop of sweetness. I would eat this every day if I could.

poached egg, it’s somehow both nuanced and comforting, warming and refreshing. The heat comes from turmeric- and ginger-infused rice, while crisp, crunchy veggies and kale add a cooling riff. A note of warning: I adored this dish, but I also love turmeric. If you’re less keen on the spice, go with another option.

flavorful enough to stand on its own, enhances every other element. At Rise, the bacon is perfectly crisp, but there’s not so much that you can’t taste and appreciate the other ingredients.

Plenty of arugula lends a fresh note, while creamy mayo plays off the salty bacon. But the real star of the show is thick, juicy, vibrant heirloom tomato. This is, without a doubt, one of the best BLTs in town.

TURMERIC AND GINGER RICE BOWL

BLT

COCONUT COOKIE

This rice bowl brings together a lot of elements, but the result is a layered, textured dish bursting with complementary flavors. Topped with an oozy

The BLT is a deceptively simple sandwich. Requiring only a few ingredients, it’s all too easy for things to go wrong. In the best versions, each ingredient,

No doubt you’ll save room for dessert when Rise’s delectable baked goods catch your eye. The coconut cookie in particular is sigh-out-loud

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good. Its texture achieves the perfect balance between soft and chewy, and it isn’t shy with the toasted coconut flavor.

Close your eyes, take a bite and pretend you’re on an island.

THE DOWN SIDE The portion sizes at Rise will delight fellow light lunchers, but if you’re used to loading up midday, you might leave feeling less than full. For instance, the kale salad, while delicious, is truly a side salad portion. But this problem is easily fixed by topping off your meal with a treat from the bakery case.

Rise Coffee House 4180 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.405.8171, risecoffeestl.com August 2017

August 2017

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reviews

the monocle

NIGHTLIFE

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

Manhattan made with Four Roses, Dolin Rouge and The Big O ginger liqueur.

Mild and sippable, it was the ideal cocktail to get me into the spirit. It made me wish The Monocle focused on oldschool cocktails done right, as the other drinks I tried beat me over the head with one ingredient that felt out of place – just like that disco light.

Though the menu didn’t always live up to the fantasy the pressed-tin bar promised, there were other consolations. Like a bottomless sangria: you have to admire the moxie of offering a bottomless drink in The Grove. With a tropical Sunny D-plus-rosé vibe, the sangria was a sweet, refreshing chalice to enjoy on the patio if you’re in for a marathon and not a sprint. I found The Monocle myself going back for 4510 Manchester several refills, which Ave., St. Louis, meant the drink easily 314.932.7003, paid for itself until themonoclestl.com they ran out. (I wasn’t the only one taking advantage that night.)

E

Misplaced disco light aside, the heavy wood bar and leather chairs are a great August 2017

place to snuggle in and meet for a drink.

Plush seating and patient bartenders bring the aesthetic into a tangible experience. Even the patio is cozy – sporting twinkle lights and enclosed by a wrought-iron fence and tall bamboo partition so it feels private despite its location just off the main drag of The Grove. On a busy evening, the whole place feels like an old gin joint, though the drinks tell a different story.

The drink menu consists of classic riffs with modern ingredients that don’t always play out as elegantly as intended. A highlight was the Empire State of Mind, The Monocle’s take on a

the monocle

The bottomless sangria is a sweet, refreshing patio sipper.

If your marathon lasts a little too long, there are a few snacks on the menu like a requisite hummus plate and meat and cheese board, but food is clearly not the focus here.

dison bulbs encased in a delicate chain link chandelier glow invitingly against the dark walls of The Monocle. Dotted with framed vintage Italian posters advertising wine and spirits, the eclectic bar hearkens back to a time of speakeasies and burlesque shows.

The ambiance is interrupted, however, by a discordant, spinning, colorchanging light that looks sourced from Spencer’s. With so many design elements seemingly lovingly selected, that one damn light is all I could look at.

ORDER IT

In true speakeasy fashion, The Emerald Room is an intimate event space hidden in the back. Everything from improv comedy to local musicians, drag shows, magicians and the apropos burlesque show, The Emerald Room hosts it all between lavish green velvet curtains.

Tiny tables pushed right up against the small stage provide a cheeky experience not found elsewhere in St. Louis. Cabaret shows can be seen around town, but this intimate format is the way they were intended to be enjoyed.

Offering such a broad swath of entertainment attracts just as wide an audience with many different types haunting the bar. Whether you want to mingle or just be surrounded by openminded folk while drinking on your own, you’ll have a place at The Monocle. Go for the show, but stay for the people.

Order the Empire State of Mind, made with Four Roses, Dolin Rouge and The Big O ginger liqueur.

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dine

& drink sidecars made with pierre ferrand dry curaçao are next level.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Pierre Ferrand dry curaçao is our favorite orange liqueur. While most offer only straight orange flavor, Pierre Ferrand’s emulates an older style, incorporating an herb and spice blend that lends complexity, depth and richness to its lush orange flavor. Not too cloying, it’s TED AND JAMIE made with barrel-aged toasted KILGORE sugar to ensure that even its USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart sweetness is rich and complex. Try and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House it in a classic Sidecar: In an ice-filled shaker, combine 2 ounces cognac, 1 ounce Pierre Ferrand dry curaçao and ¾ ounce lemon juice. Shake vigorously, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. $31. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Ave., Clayton, 314.863.6262, winemerchantltd.com August 2017

I wasn’t expecting to find an interesting new wine in Cuba, Missouri, on a recent Route 66 road trip, but that’s where I discovered Old Soul wines from Lodi, GLENN BARDGETT California. Solidly made Member of the Missouri Wine and nicely packaged, and Grape Board and wine the 2015 Old Soul Lodi director at Annie Gunn’s Pinot Noir kept me sipping. The unusual blend with Lodi’s flagship zinfandel added some weight and juicy concentration to the wine. $10. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

The intense heat of last-minute August barbecues call for refreshing and delicate Belgianstyle wits. Straw yellow with high carbonation that keeps the beer dancing in your glass, witbiers showcase a pleasant bready aroma highlighted by KATIE HERRERA soft spice, citrus, clove and Co-founder of Femme coriander. Unibroue Blanche de Ferment and account manager at Craft Republic Chambly is an exquisite French Canadian ode to this Belgian tradition, complete with notes of wheat, citrus, spice and honey perfected by a clean, dry finish. Six-pack: $10. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, craftbeercellar.com

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patio at sasha's on shaw

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3 FA IL-S A F E WINE REGIONS TO REMEMBER

WINE

BY HEATHER HUGHES

Choosing a wine is a lot like traveling: You don’t always understand the language, you’re trying really hard not to look like an idiot and it’s easy to get lost. Sometimes getting lost leads to the best experiences, and sometimes it leads to terrifying episodes you’d rather forget, but either way you’re probably a little drunk by the end of it. Even if you don’t plan to get around like a local, big landmarks can do wonders for figuring out where you are – saving time and making a trip worth the expense. Consider Reeds American Table advanced sommelier Andrey Ivanov your temporary tour guide to American wine lists. We asked for a handful of key words that could get us to dependably excellent bottles in the fewest number of steps possible. We’re not trying to be fluent here – just tell us what to look for on a menu that we might actually remember and will always be good. Here are the U.S. regions that won’t steer you wrong.

Washington State “If you like big red wines from California, you’ll like Washington,” Ivanov said. Eastern Washington is sunny and dry with predictable weather patterns and (comparatively) cheap rent, currently attracting a lot of interesting winemakers from Napa Valley. “They’re not shy about it – these are big wines,” Ivanov said. “I can’t think of a bad vintage from Washington.” Look for Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley reds.

New York’s Finger Lakes If you’re looking for cool cool-climate wines in styles similar to Germany, look no further than New York.

Ivanov said the whites, pinot

March 2017

noirs and cabernet francs coming out of the Finger Lakes region are affordable, high-quality domestics that hold their own against more recognizable names.

Santa Barbara Located in the confluence of two wind currents, Santa Barbara has just about every kind of wine-growing climate within a 35-mile radius. “There are not many places in the world where you can do both grüner and grenache,” Ivanov said. Santa Rita Hills is the coldest AVA wine-growing region in California – turning out chardonnays, pinots and syrahs, while Happy Canyon produces some great warmweather cabernets just miles away.

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio on 90.7 FM when editors Catherine Klene and Heather Hughes talk the latest Sauce Hit List, openings and closings on Aug. 1. Then check back later in the month when advanced sommelier Andrey Ivanov joins Hughes to share tricks to picking the perfect bottle of wine.

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EFFICIENT KITCHEN

roasted beets

BY KELLIE HYNES // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

A funny thing happened recently when I announced I was working on beet recipes – not one of my friends offered to taste test. In fact, all conversation awkwardly ceased.

Eye contact was avoided. One friend physically recoiled, though she swore it was just a muscle cramp throughout her entire body. Beets, it turns out, are not universally beloved.

If you also shun beets, I beg you not to let the unworthy roots you’ve

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experienced thus far have the last word.

Give the vegetables one more chance and simply roast them. Roasted beets are candy-sweet with a tenderness usually reserved for custard and kindergarten teachers. Just toss whole trimmed beets with a drizzle of oil and a flurry of salt.

No chopping necessary, because beets appreciate your busy schedule and don’t want to hassle you. Place the beets in a pan with a splash of water, cover it tightly with aluminum foil and roast about 45 minutes. To peel your cooked

beets, hold them in a handful of paper towels and gently wipe the skin away.

It may be a temptation, but don’t wear your wedding dress while cooking, since the deep red juice may leave you ready for a horror movie close-up. Alternatively, you can select golden beets, which are slightly milder in flavor and don’t pink up the place. Roast them the same way, but separately if you’re preparing lovelies of both hues, since the red beets tint their golden cousins when they share a pan.

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Now, you can stop right there and enjoy your roasted beets warm or chilled. If you have an extra 30 seconds of prep time, pair them with a fullflavored goat or blue cheese and a splash of vinegar, or pull out all the stops and bake sweets with your beets.

Thanks to Southern Living magazine, I learned that beets are a natural substitute for food coloring in a gem of a red velvet cake recipe. So strictly in the interest of scientific research, I whipped up a batch of beet-velvet cupcakes, cream cheese frosting and all. They were full of chocolaty goodness, with no artificial – or earthy – aftertaste. Even my beetadverse friends cheerfully enjoyed them.

Sometimes beets just need a little faith.

And a little chocolate.

EASY ROASTED BEETS 2 CUPS 1 lb. (about 4 medium) red or golden beets, trimmed 1 Tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. water

in a roasting pan, add the water, cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast until soft when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes.

• Let the beets rest at room temperature until cool enough to handle, then use a paper towel to wipe off the skins. Cut the beets into quarters and serve hot or cold, plain or drizzled with vinaigrette.

Endive salad Chop a head of endive lettuce. Add 1 cup chopped roasted red or yellow beets, ½ cup Gorgonzola cheese, ½ cup chopped Fuji apple and 1 ounce chopped walnuts. Toss with a vinaigrette made from 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil, 2 teaspoons champagne vinegar and 1 ∕8 teaspoon kosher salt.

Zesty potato salad Place 2 pounds scrubbed small red potatoes and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a pot, cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered until tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes.

Drain and allow to cool to room temperature, then cut into quarters.

Gently fold in 2 cups roasted red beets, ½ cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup sour cream, 2 tablespoons cream-style horseradish, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and 1 ∕8 teaspoon pepper. Refrigerate at least 1 hour then garnish with 2 tablespoons chopped chives.

Beet red velvet cupcakes Adapted from Southern Living Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two 12-cupcake pans. Puree 1 cup roasted beets with 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a food processor. Add 4 large eggs, ¾ cup whole buttermilk and ¾ cup canola oil and pulse until well combined. Set aside. In a large bowl, mix 2½ cups flour, 1½ cups sugar, 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa, 2 teaspoons baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Add the beet mixture to the dry mixture and mix well. Fill cupcake liners ²∕³ full with batter. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 15 to 18 minutes. Allow to cool, then top with frosting (whip 8 ounces cream cheese and ¼ cup softened unsalted butter in

a stand mixer until fluffy, then add 1 pound powdered sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla and whip until smooth).

Beet-Sauced Flatbread Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Roll out and bake 1 pound prepared pizza dough until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Place 2 cups roasted red beets, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 teaspoon minced garlic in a food processor and puree until smooth. Spread on top of warm baked pizza crust. Sprinkle with 1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh baby spinach, 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese and ½ ounce pine nuts. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Return to the oven 8 to 10 minutes, until the goat cheese softens and the spinach wilts. Drizzle with honey if desired, and serve warm.

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• In a large bowl, toss the beets with the olive oil and salt. Place the beets

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MAKE THIS SUMMER BERRY & ROSEMARY JAM ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES

MAKE THIS Gather ye berries while ye may for this simple, sweet jam. Place 24 ounces total mixed blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and quartered strawberries in a large pot with 3 tablespoons lemon juice, 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary, then crush the berries with a potato masher. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon and scraping the bottom, until thickened, about 40 minutes. Transfer the jam to sterile glass jars, leaving a little room at top, seal and let cool, then refrigerate. Use within 3 weeks on toast with ricotta, served with cheese and crackers, as a decadent sauce on duck or pork, or freeze up to 6 months. – Dee Ryan

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Berries contain no natural pectin, so this jam is a little runnier than most. If you prefer thicker jam, add 1 tablespoon pectin, chia seeds or minced apple while cooking.

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ice cream sandwich

While a normal milkshake might be topped with a modest dollop of whipped cream and perhaps a daintily placed cherry, Beyond Shakes from Beyond Sweet in The Loop are Instagrammable monsters topped with baked goods that loom precariously over their cups and ooze enticingly down the sides.

Perhaps the most impressive is the Chocoholic. “This is for someone who really likes to indulge in chocolate,” said owner Dallas Holland with admirable understatement. “We decided to put in everything a person who loves chocolate might crave.” And she means everything. This Frankenstein’s milkshake begins with a 16-ounce cup dipped in chocolate and coated with sprinkles. Then it’s filled with vanilla ice cream and fudge and topped with all manner of sweetness. The result – a confection of monumental proportions that’ll please even the most rapacious cocoa fanatic. – Matt Sorrell

drumstick cone

brownie crumbles

mini doughnuts

freakshakes

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Beyond Sweet, 5901 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.899.5052, Facebook: Beyond Sweet

get it

chocola te sprinkles

whipped cream

PHOTO CARMEN TROESSER

chocola te sauce

chocola te chips

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August 2017

OFF THE V INE

BY M A R I A N N E M O O R E // P H OTO S BY C A R M E N T R O E S SE R

Hello peak tomato season, we’ve been waiting for you! Summer means a whole different breed of tomato: deep red, succulent and flavorful – firm to the touch but bursting with juice when you take a bite. It’s almost a crime to eat them any way but fresh off the vine with a pinch of salt, but when you’ve had your fill of caprese and your market basket is still overflowing, you need these recipes that spotlight the tomato and showcase the fruit in its sweet, acidic, juicy glory.

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TOMATO TARTINE R E C I P E O N P. 3 8

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T A K E I T E A S Y The best non-recipe for just-picked tomatoes is to serve them sliced on a board with fresh burrata, a loaf of crusty bread and small cruets of olive oil, balsamic and sea salt.

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R E C I P E S TOMATO AND WATERMELON RADISH SALAD 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar 1 small shallot, minced 1 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 to 3 radishes (preferably watermelon), thinly sliced 2 large tomatoes, sliced about ¼-inch thick 1 cup microgreens or arugula, for garnish • In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, shallot, honey and lemon juice.

Slowly whisk in the olive oil until well blended. Add the salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

• On a serving platter, layer the tomatoes and radishes. Drizzle the dressing over the top and garnish with the greens.

TOMATO TARTINE 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 loaf country bread, sliced about ¾-inch thick

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Olive oil, for brushing 2 garlic cloves 8 oz. goat cheese, softened 2 large tomatoes, sliced about ¼-inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Preheat a grill pan or grill to mediumhigh heat.

• Brush the bread slices with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

• Toast the bread on the grill until crisp and grill marks appear. Flip and repeat. Rub each slice with a garlic clove, then set aside.

• Spread 1 tablespoon goat cheese on each slice of grilled bread, top with the tomato slices and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO TART 8 SERVINGS 2½ cups flour 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more, to taste 2½ sticks unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small cubes ¼ cup ice water, plus more as needed 2 cups grated Parmesan 2 cups ricotta 2 Tbsp. lemon zest Freshly ground pepper, to taste 1½ lb. heirloom tomatoes, sliced ¼-inch thick 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil

• Add the flour and 1 tsp. salt to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add ¼ cup ice water and pulse 3 or 4 times.

The dough should hold together when squeezed with your fingers but should not be sticky. If it is crumbly, add more water, 1 teaspoon at a time, pulsing 2 to 3 times after each addition.

• Turn the dough out onto a work surface and shape into a 6-inch disk.

Wrap with plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about 1∕8 -inch thick. Press into a 10¼-inch round tart pan and trim the edges, leaving about a ½-inch overhang around the rim. Fold in the excess dough and press it into the sides so they are thicker. Refrigerate at least 10 minutes.

• Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, place a sheet of parchment paper on top and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake 12 minutes, then remove the weights and parchment and continue baking until the crust is cooked through and light golden-brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely in the tart pan.

• In a bowl, combine the Parmesan, ricotta and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the mixture into the cool tart shell. Layer the tomato slices and chopped basil atop the filling. Serve immediately.

SUMMER SHAKSHUKA 4 SERVINGS 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 4 large tomatoes, rough chopped 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon 4 large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 baguette, warmed and sliced thick, for serving • In a medium cast-iron skillet over medium heat, saute the garlic in olive oil until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and simmer until softened and crushed, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tarragon.

• Make 4 indentations in the tomato sauce and carefully crack 1 egg in each. Cook until the whites are starting to set, then cover and continue cooking until the whites are completely set but yolks are still soft, about 8 minutes.

• Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with additional olive oil and baguette slices.

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TOMATO AND WATERMELON

RADISH SALAD R E C I P E O N P. 3 8

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GOAT CHEESE-STUFFED ROASTED TOMATOES R E C I P E O N P. 4 1

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CORNBREAD PANZANELLA 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 6 cups 1-inch cubed cornbread ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 4 lb. heirloom tomatoes, roughly chopped 8 oz. fresh mozzarella, roughly chopped 2 shallots, minced ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar ½ cup packed chiffonaded basil • Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread the cornbread cubes evenly on top. Let dry a few hours or overnight.

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• Drizzle the cornbread with ¼ cup olive oil and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake until crisp and browned, stirring about halfway through, 10 to 15 minutes.

• In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes, mozzarella, shallots, vinegar and the remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Let sit about 15 minutes to allow the juices to develop, then add the cornbread, stirring lightly to mix. Fold in the basil.

Let rest at least 15 to 20 minutes.

Season again with salt and pepper, and serve.

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GOAT CHEESE-STUFFED ROASTED TOMATOES 8 SERVINGS 8 medium tomatoes 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 oz. goat cheese ½ cup mascarpone 1 tsp. fresh thyme, plus more for garnish 2 Tbsp. butter 1 garlic clove, minced ¼ cup breadcrumbs • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• Using a sharp serrated knife, cut a small slice off the bottoms of the tomatoes so they stand upright. Cut a circle around the stems at the tops and remove, then use a spoon to hollow out the tomatoes, leaving some flesh around the sides.

• Place the tomatoes in a baking dish, drizzle with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast until just soft, but still holding their shape, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool about 10 minutes, then pour out excess liquid from the tomatoes.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted

with the whisk attachment, combine the goat cheese, mascarpone, thyme, salt and pepper. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Set aside.

• Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and saute about 1 minute. Add the breadcrumbs and stir to combine.

Remove from heat.

• Divide the goat cheese mixture among the tomatoes, top with the breadcrumb mixture and garnish with thyme. Serve immediately.

ROASTED TOMATO COMPOTE 2 CUPS This compote is wonderful served over grilled fish or chicken, or rough chopped right out of the oven and stirred into hot pasta with plenty of grated Parmesan.

20 plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise and seeded 1 tsp. sugar • Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

• Line a baking sheet with foil and drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Sprinkle the oil with salt and pepper, and scatter with half the garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaves.

• Lay the tomatoes cut-side-down over the oil and seasonings. Drizzle the remaining olive oil atop the tomatoes, then sprinkle with the sugar, salt, pepper and the remaining garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaves.

• Bake 1 hour and 15 minutes. Flip the tomatoes and continue baking until soft, but still able to hold their shape, about 30 minutes, checking every 10 minutes.

• Let cool, then transfer to a jar with any oil remaining on the pan. If you plan to keep them longer than 2 days, add additional olive oil to cover the tomatoes and refrigerate.

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 10 basil leaves, torn 4 sprigs thyme, stemmed 2 bay leaves, crumbled

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stuff to do:

AUGUST

B Y C A I T L I N L A L LY, M I C K I WA G N E R A N D R A C H E L W I L S O N sponsored events Grub & Groove Aug. 12 – 3 to 10 p.m., Francis Park, St. Louis, 314.707.7668, grubandgroovestl.com Get a taste of South City (and then some) when nearly a dozen restaurants hit the outdoors at a free event in Francis Park. Purchase 4 Hands Brewing Co. beer and tastes from Edibles & Essentials, Snax Gastrobar, Salt & Smoke, Aya Sofia and more, and enjoy a lengthy lineup of bands. The night ends with a fireworks display.

Lemp Mansion Boogalou Aug. 12 – 5 to 11 p.m., The Lemp Mansion, 3322 DeMenil Place, St. Louis, 314.664.8024, lempmansion.com The Lemp Mansion and Restaurant celebrates 40 years as an eatery with blues, barbecue and booze.

Brinks BBQ and Catering serves an allyou-can-eat spread of ribs, pulled pork, chicken and snoots, along with sides and an open bar. Get your groove on when blues songstress Kim Massie performs. Tickets available by phone.

The Great Muslim Cook Off and Food Festival Aug. 13 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., World’s Fair Pavilion, Forest Park, 1904 Concourse Drive, St. Louis, cair-mo.org/ cookoff Experience the diversity of the St. Louis Muslim community when home cooks go head to head for the best dishes and win cash prizes. Attendees get a taste of this international fare from St. Louis Gyros, Mideast Market and St. Louis Halal

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and other restaurants. Admission is free; register to compete online.

Rock the Hops Aug. 19 – 2 to 8 p.m., Alton Visitor Center, 200 Piasa St., Alton, rockthehops.bpt.me Dive into the Alton beer scene at Rock the Hops. Jump on the shuttle to hit participating eateries like Elijah P’s and Germania Brew Haus, and sip samples of more than 25 beer styles from breweries like 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., Old Bakery Beer Co. and The Grafton Winery. Tickets available online.

Care-E-Yolk-E Brunch Aug. 20 – 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., Food Outreach, 3117 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.652.3663 x118, foodoutreach.org Indulge in Sunday brunch for a good cause at Care-E-Yolk-E. Tickets include a bloody mary and mimosa bar, as well as a morning spread of frittata, fruit salad, pastries, potatoes and bacon or sausage. Then unleash your inner rock star when Elvis impersonator Jeff Barnes hosts a round of karaoke. Tickets available online.

Adventures with Cocktails Aug. 25 – 5:30 to 8 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd, St. Louis, 314.577.5100, mobot.org This adults-only event features cocktails made with spirits from Pinckney Bend Distillery and Spirits of St. Louis. Catering St. Louis dishes out childhood classics like hot dogs, chili dogs, barbecue pork sandwiches and churros. While you sip, try your luck at a scavenger hunt to earn extra drinks.

Tickets available online.

Art Hill Film Series Aug. 4 – 6 p.m., Art Hill, Forest Park, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, Facebook: Saint Louis Art Museum The Saint Louis Art Museum screens the final film of its Art Hill Film Series, “The Devil Wears Prada,” on Art Hill.

Get there early for a Food Truck Fest featuring around a dozen rotating trucks like Farmtruk, Vincent Van Doughnut and Seoul Taco.

Food Truck Friday Aug. 11 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com More than 20 trucks join FTF including Brazil Express, Cha Cha Chow and Clementine’s Creamery. Sip beer from 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. or Noboleis Vineyards wine while you enjoy live music from The Bottoms Up Blues Band. Save time and skip the line – buy Speed Passes online.

Downtown Restaurant Week Aug. 14 to 20, participating locations, downtown St. Louis, downtownrestaurantweek.com Make your reservations for the 13th annual Downtown Restaurant Week featuring 19 different locations. For $25 or $35, try a full three-course meal from restaurants like Hiro Asian Kitchen, Cielo Restaurant & Bar, Morgan Street Brewery and Clark Street Grill. A full list of restaurants is available online.

Just Five: From Sauce Magazine Aug. 15 – 6:30 p.m., Dierbergs, 1081 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0440, dierbergs.com/school Join Sauce contributing writer Dee Ryan and learn to make a berry shrub cocktail, summer gazpacho, strawberry grilled cheese, steak with corn salad and a chocolate tahini milkshake, all with just five key ingredients in each recipe. Tickets available online.

Wine & Dine with Sauce Magazine Aug. 18 – 6:30 p.m., Dierbergs, 1081 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0440, dierbergs.com/school Learn new recipes and the latest culinary trends from the Sauce team at this multi-course dinner and cooking class.

Managing editor Heather Hughes and art director Meera Nagarajan showcase recipes from the magazine paired with wines. Tickets available online.

St. Louis World’s Fare Aug. 18 to 20 – World’s Fair Pavilion, Forest Park, 1904 Concourse Drive, St. Louis, stlworldsfare.com St. Louis honors its history in Forest Park. Take a stroll down Restaurant Row and purchase food from more than 20 eateries, then explore STL’s brewing history with 4204 Main St. Brewing and Urban Chestnut Beer Co. Join STL Barkeep and the St. Louis chapter of United States Bartenders’ Guild for a special Spirited Sessions and cocktail competition.

Rise Up Festival Aug. 19 – 2 to 11 p.m., Rise Community Development, 1627 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.333.7008, riseupfestival.org Celebrate revitalization efforts in St. Louis at a street festival highlighting local artists, musicians and food.

Purchase fare from a handful of participating restaurants and food trucks like The Sliced Pint, Pica DiYo and 314 City Bar, and find out the winner of the Fantasy Food Fare.

Alton Food Truck Festival Aug. 26 – 4 to 8 p.m., Liberty Bank Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 800.258.6645, libertybankamphitheater.com Follow around 20 St. Louis food trucks over the Mississippi River for the Alton Food Truck Festival. Purchase tasty fare from Steak Louie, Guerrilla Street Food, Frankly Sausages and others at the free event. VIP tickets available online.

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WHAT I DO

colleen clawson Chef Colleen Clawson can do wonders with a piece of toast. Like an artist with a blank canvas, she piles vibrant ingredients into colorful, edible works of art that are devoured in short order at Milque Toast Bar. Clawson spent years in fine dining kitchens (Five Bistro, Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar, Sidney Street Cafe, to name a few), but she and Amanda Geimer struck out on their own two years ago with a tiny breakfast and lunch spot across the alley from Clawson’s McKinley Heights home. Here, she shares her inspirations, how she blows off steam and a brief message to avocado toast haters. – Catherine Klene

to be angry about? I could give you a big long list of things that are legitimately wrong that you could get mad for.”

“ I h av e a couple of reference b o o k s that I still always go back to because they’re just so good. ‘The Flavor Bible’ … I like ‘The Herbfarm Cookbook,’ which I think is out of print now, but “ [ Av o c a d o it’s one of my all-time toa st ] i s favorites that I always go d e l i c i o u s . Like, back to. And the ‘Chez what is your problem?

Panisse Cookbook.’ I Why do you hate life so have some of [Alice much? Aren’t there much Waters’] other ones, too, more important things 46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

which I really like, but that’s the one I always find myself looking at again and again. I guess for the same reason you use Google. There’s an aesthetic and a style that I really enjoy, and I feel more akin to that way of making things.”

“I wish people understood they’re paying for a lot of things that aren’t just on your plate. There is a way that I could make this place even cheaper, but I’m not going to because I would have to sacrifice what’s more important.”

“ I t ’ s a g r e at time to be in f o o d i n S t.

L o u i s . You could start with William Thomas Pauley over at Confluence Kombucha. I just saw him.

Their particular place is completely unique. …

Sometimes when you’ve worked in restaurants for a really long time, you look at things and you know what happened. Sometimes I look at his food and I’m like, ‘What happened? How did he do that?’ In a great way.

It’s still mysterious to me.”

“ I lov e d a n c i n g . We just went to a reggae show

at 2720. Those guys are doing some really neat things down there. The whole arcade and Blank Space and Rumpshaker parties – those are really fun. I haven’t been to one of those in a while because it gets kind of late, and I’m way more boring than I used to be, but I feel better at 6 a.m.”

“There’s this frame shop in Soulard that I worked at where I discovered I really adored this craft. There’s definitely a craft to it. We built everything. There’s matting in framing, so

there’s a lot of design and a lot of precision with it, and it feels good to me the same way making a really beautiful plate where everything is supposed to be. There’s a visual, immediate gratification.”

“[My son’s] rebellion is wa n t i n g f a s t f o o d . On his birthday, … he wanted to go to Subway. I was like, ‘You’re kidding me – of all the places?’ But whatever, it’s what he wanted. So we played putt-putt golf and went to Subway. And he was really happy.”

August 2017

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

“Sometimes I could make things s i m p l e r , but where’s the fun in that?

You have this toast and it’s this thing with 18 different elements all of a sudden, but it looks really good like that and it tastes awesome, so I’m just leaving it. I guess I’d rather people wait two extra minutes.”

Milque Toast Bar, 2212 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.0085, milquetoastbar.org

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