easy recipes for summer tomatoes, p. 49
S I M P LY
T O M AT O E S
August 2019ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // saucemagazine.com SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 F R E E , AU GIU ST 2019
2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3
AUGUST 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 8 If you started a pop-up, what would it be?
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
South Indian with a fun restaurant playlist
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
I would do plant-based beer dinners.
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2019 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
All healthy stuff - lots of fruits and vegetables
Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Michelle Volansky Megan Gilmore Julia Calleo, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Chelsie Hellige, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Daun Lee, Meera Nagarajan, Marcelle Owona, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Daun Lee, Marcelle Owona, Darian Stevenson
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________
SEND A $30 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau
4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
•
St. Louis, MO 63103 August 2019
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5
6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
contents AU GUST 2 019
editors' picks 9 EAT THIS Torta at El Toluco
by adam rothbarth 11 HIT LIST 8 places to try this month
by heather hughes, catherine klene, matt sorrell and adam rothbarth 19 ELIXIR
last bite 54 STUFF TO DO by daun lee and marcelle owona
features
from some of our favorite local
38
chefs await on p. 46.
UNDERGROUND DINING
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
46
Fran Caradonna
by catherine klene
SIMPLY TOMATOES
58 LANDMARK
52
by lauren healey
GROCERY SCORES
Young’s Restaurant and Ice Creamery
Where to find our favorite restaurant sauces, rubs and dressings
by adam rothbarth
by matt sorrell
Simple, tomato-forward recipes
by chelsie hellige
56 WHAT I DO
Rosé all day
COVER DETAILS
acorn doughnut at bulrush, p. 27
by heather hughes
20 MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Ramon Cuffie
by meera nagarajan 23 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore
reviews 27 NEW AND NOTABLE Bulrush
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by michael renner
August 2019
30 NIGHTLIFE Bemiston Cocktail Club
by stephanie zeilenga Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM when Sauce shares its must-try new restaurants on the August Hit List. Then listen in later this month when Sauce managing editor Heather Hughes and contributor Chelsie Hellige join St. Louis on the Air to discuss St. Louis’ underground dining scene.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7
8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
Eat This
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
The torta at El Toluco is a true colossus. Its base is telera bread from El Chico bakery on Cherokee Street. Along with the meat of your choice (get the al pastor), you’ll find beans, jalapenos, chipotle salsa, queso de puerco, tomatoes and lettuce, mayo, onion, avocado, queso fresco, Oaxaca cheese and … a few slices of ham in addition to the meat you already selected. Conquering this delicious monster in a small Ballwin strip mall you may make you feel like a hero. You are. El Toluco Taqueria & Grocery, 14234 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.686.5444, Facebook: El Toluco Taqueria & Grocery August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
hit list
8 new places to try this month
DISHES AT INDO
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
HIT LIST p. 2 of 4
BOB.Q We love a short menu, and, in St. Louis, there aren’t many shorter than Bob.Q’s. The Korean rice bowl spot is right to be confident in its focused offerings. We recommend going with a friend so you can each get a halfand-half bowl and try all four protein options. The bowls come simply with rice, greens and your choice of beef bulgogi, spicy chicken, spicy pork or tofu – all of which were worth coming back for a quick, satisfying lunch. If you don’t like a rice bowl, miso soup or dumplings, don’t go to Bob.Q.
571 Melville Ave., University City, 314.659.8439, Instagram: Bobqstl
UP-DOWN STL
top: indo chefowner nick bognar; right: up-down stl
With a raft of raves from local and national press and high-end accolades like his semifinalist nod for the James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year, chef Nick Bognar could have easily coasted for a while. Instead, he decided to ramp things up and open his solo venture: Indo. The restaurant showcases influences from areas in Indochina (hence the name) and Japan. Fans of Bognar’s work at Nippon Tei can still get his signature nigiri, but the Indo menu also serves hot and cool creations like meaty, spicy chili prawns, shrimp toast (on neighboring Union Loafers bread) and larger, shareable plates like the fried madai, a whole fish preparation (toothy grin and all) accented with mango sweet chili sauce and papaya salad.
One of five arcade bars in the Midwest-based chain, Up-Down STL lives up to the hype – and the more than two-year struggle it took to get into the Central West End. More than 80 ’80s and ’90s arcade games, pinball machines and Skee-ball lanes make up a colorful, crowded maze. The smart design isn’t just seen in clever neon signs, throwback Britney Spears pop art and the living wall out back. The space is set up so that no matter how packed the two-story nightlife attraction gets, you can always order a drink at three strategically placed bars in the main room, downstairs and on the patio. Games cost 25 cents, solid slices of New York-style pizza cost $4, and there are daily drink specials. So, we’ll see you at Dance Dance Revolution often.
1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, Facebook: Indo - STL
405 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.449.1742, updownarcadebar.com
12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
INDO PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; UP-DOWN STL PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
INDO
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13
14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
HIT LIST p. 3 of 4
ALTA CALLE An affordable menu of high-end Mexican cuisine is everything we want, so we’re quite excited former Nixta chef Tello Carreón is back in a restaurant kitchen at Alta Calle. Everything from the guacamole (incorporating pickled shallot and topped with mint) to the tomato ensalada (topped with buratta) showcases Carreón’s skill with unexpected ingredients and flower-strewn presentation. Order Los Cuatro tacos to try masterful examples of carne asada (still pink inside), carnitas (moist with a crispy crust), crispy tofu (super flavorful with charred veggies) and al pastor (tender and rich with chunks of pineapple). If you visit during lunch, do not miss the pollo pipián: a juicy grilled chicken breast blanketed in an incredible, rich green mole pipián sauce (made with roasted veggies and herbs), surrounded by rice and beans.
3131 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.282.0840, Facebook: Alta Calle
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
URSA MINOR COFFEE Fans of Living Room will appreciate the continuity of its shuttered second location and the new Ursa Minor, owned by former Living Room barista Ben Hoelzer. Look for the same solid pour-overs and espresso drinks, along with some well-researched curveballs Hoelzer has brought to the shop. We particularly enjoyed the iced banana milk latte – sweet, but nicely balanced and perfect for Missouri’s tropical weather. The misugaru latte was also strange but good, a Korean grain powder that brought more texture and bold oat flavor than oat milk.
5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.222.0333, Facebook: Ursa Minor Coffee August 2019
clockwise, from top: chuleta de puerco, dining room and flan de queso at alta calle
LA BAMBA If you’re walking the streets of downtown and are looking for a place to hunker down with some warm chips, a cool drink and a platter of comforting Mexican food, go to La Bamba. From the fresh, slightly spicy salsa to the refreshing margaritas, this colorful, fun sister restaurant to Central West End’s El Burro Loco will satisfy. We loved the flavor of the grilled vegetables in the veggie fajitas, and found the chicken chimichanga smothered in rich cheese sauce to fully hit the spot. We had to go for a walk after, but it was worth it.
1101 Lucas Ave., Suite 200, St. Louis, 314.833.3211, Facebook: La Bamba Mexican Restaurant saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15
16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
HIT LIST p. 4 of 4
THE LAST KITCHEN
Maplewood’s newest wine bar is also one of St. Louis’ most affordable bottle shops. Chateau Maplewood offers a dozen or so wines by the glass and a handful of bar snacks like hummus and crackers or a cheese board. Sample several with its Choose Your Own Adventure wine flight: three 3-ounce pours of any bottle behind the bar for $15. The selection rotates often, but keep your eye out for Xarmant from Txakoli, Spain, or the Cardwell Hill pinot noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon. Both are light, refreshing options perfect for hot summer days. If you find a new favorite, you’re in luck – all bottles are available for retail purchase, many for less than $25.
We would love to furnish our dining room with The Last Kitchen’s midcentury chairs and marble-topped tables. Located in downtown’s new Last Hotel, it’s equal parts grand and comfortable – as is the menu. Dinner entrees include classic dishes like a roasted half chicken with gnocchi and broccolini in beurre blanc, salmon with green beans and mustard cream sauce and sirloin with potatoes and Brussels sprouts. If you opt for the all-day bar menu in the dining room, order the steak sandwich. Rather than a sliced flank steak, you’ll be greeted by succulent strips of roast soaked in house giardiniera and topped with havarti and creme fraiche. Executive chef Evy Swoboda brought everything she learned about pasta from her time at Pastaria. We couldn’t choose a favorite between the torcino in pesto with Calabrian chili and goat cheese and the Grown Up Garlic Noodles, made with tagliatelle in a fermented black garlic sauce.
7326 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0105, Facebook: Chateau Maplewood
The Last Hotel, 1501 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2500, thelasthotelstl.com
CHATEAU MAPLEWOOD
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
clockwise from top: the dining room at the last kitchen, the last hotel executive chef evy swoboda, roast half chicken at the last kitchen, the last bison burger
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17
18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
YES WAY By Matt Sorrell
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Summer’s favorite drink has gotten so big it’s transcended the wine bottle. Everything from cider to spirits can be seen through rosé-colored glasses these days.
and Strongbow. St. Louis cidery Brick River Cider Co. utilizes sour cherries and hibiscus tea for a brut brew dubbed Firehouse Rosé.
Pink beers are trending, and many explicitly claim the rosé name. Crooked Stave Brewery in Denver makes a sour rosé ale that employs a wild fermentation process along with raspberries and blueberries. Firestone Walker Brewing Co. in California makes Rosalie, brewed with various wine grapes and a touch of hibiscus flower, while local Center Ice Brewery has put out a rosé ale brewed with hibiscus and pink guava.
Cocktailians looking to bring some color to their creations have more options than ever. Brands like Svedka, Three Olives and Effen have taken up the blush banner with rosé-flavored vodkas. Bosford makes a pink gin and strawberry liqueur called Rose, or check out vermouths like Turmeon Rosé from Spain and BroVo Pink Rosé vermouth, made with pinot noir from Washington state. Even Lillet has a rosé aromatized wine in its stable.
There are plenty of rosé ciders on the market, including offerings from Shacksbury Cider, Angry Orchard
If you’d rather not make your own, Pampelonne makes a canned rosélime sparkling wine cocktail. And
August 2019
Sardella 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, sardellastl.com
the watermelon frosé at Narwhal’s Crafted is guaranteed to bring your temperature down. Sardella also offers a classic version of 2016’s favorite drink. Bemiston Cocktail Club has been moving large numbers of its Rosé Paloma, which takes the classic tequila and grapefruit long drink and tops it with Shacksbury rosé cider for a tart and sparkling sipper.
Bemiston Cocktail Club 16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, bemistoncocktail.club Brick River Cider Co. 2000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.224.5046, brickrivercider.com
Everyone in the beverage community seems to be thinking, and drinking, pink.
BUY IT Narwhal’s Crafted 3906 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8388; 1450 Beale St., Suite 125, St. Charles, 636.395.7315, narwhalscrafted.com
Center Ice Brewery 3126 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.339.5733, centericebrewery.com Parker’s Table 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com The Wine Merchant 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
“I might have been 11 or 12. I went on this trip every year with my mom’s bowling league. And every year, we went to this cafeteria-style restaurant. It was a tight space. You walked around a U-shaped counter and got whatever items you wanted on your tray, and it was great comfort food – mashed potatoes, that kind of thing. At the end of the U was a big mound of whipped cream and strawberries and, as a kid, I always wanted dessert first, and it never spoiled my dinner. This particular time, my mom made me eat my dinner first, and the whole time I’m thinking about those strawberries. They just looked decadent; I just wanted them. She told me to eat dinner first and that they were going to be there, but I kept asking. I bugged the hell out of her to get those strawberries. She finally gave in, and I got too excited. I got a big bowl of strawberries and cream, and then I just fainted, I just got so excited. In the following years, she would just let me have those strawberries first.”
MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE
RAMON CUFFIE
Chef Ramon Cuffie is a student at heart, from studying old Italian and French cookbooks to learning from the international customers during his tenure at Bar Italia. He earned a GED in order to get an associate’s degree from the Culinary Institute of America. “Every skill I have came from this job,” he said. “Every skill is connected to cooking.” Now, the newly appointed executive chef at Herbie’s is sharing his knowledge. When we spoke, he had just finished a tutorial on how to properly cook mushrooms. “You’re never too old to learn something new.” Here, he reflects on three meals that changed his life. – Meera Nagarajan
20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Avignon, France 1998 “My first meal [helping teach at an international culinary program] was cooking turbot. I sauteed it and mixed it up in French butter; I was so excited to cook it. Savoy cabbage was something I used to order and wait on, but there it was available, and that was the difference. In
Europe, when you go to the market, you can smell what you see. Everything was so vibrant; I guess it’s like going to anybody’s farm. We were supposed to get together and do something with other students. They just wanted to go party; they didn’t really want to cook. I wanted to go cook. I was taking it all in, and I didn’t want to waste a second, so the minute I got there, I was standing there in front of things that I didn’t feel like I could cook or eat again. For me, to put it in the skillet and go to the market every day was the most exciting thing. Things are different now with farm-totable. But not then.”
Milan, Italy 1999 “I was in Milan at the train station and, close by, there’s a little market, and I could smell the peaches before I saw them. Everything about being in Italy was amazing. Everyone was selling some particular thing like that. The thing is that this was probably some guy’s personal peaches that he grew. They didn’t come from someplace; they came from his land. And, the smell, that’s what drew me in. And the peach, well, the peach was fucking fantastic.”
Herbie’s, 8100 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.769.9595, herbies.com
August 2019
ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
Cincinnati 1976
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
A SEAT AT THE BAR SEAT AT FiveA experts tell us what THE to sip, stir andBAR shake Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House
The Pendennis Cocktail has had many variations since its heyday in the 1940s. Try our version: In an ice-filled shaker, combine 2 ounces Plymouth gin, ¾ ounce Rothman & Winter apricot liqueur, ¾ ounce lime juice and 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters, shake 17 to 20 seconds and strain into a cocktail glass. It boasts a nose of grapefruit, orchard fruit and fresh white flowers with a tart, bright, clean and lightly bitter finish.
RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop
Big Shark Grapefruit Radler is the latest spin on Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s insanely successful Big Shark Lemon Radler released last spring. Just as good for a round of golf as it is blended with your favorite gin, this grapefruit-forward, 4.2% brew is a perfectly light-bodied yet full-flavored offering from a staple in the St. Louis beer scene. Four-pack: $10.50. Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s
2017 foris rogue valley pinot noir pairs well with just about anything. August 2019
Pinot noir is a wine for all seasons. The grape is fussy about where it grows, but results are magical in the right terroir – like Oregon’s Rogue Valley. 2017 Foris Rogue Valley Pinot Noir features tart cherry notes and softness from low tannins, ideal for sipping alone, but its balanced acidity pairs well with just about anything. $20. Straub’s, 211 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.962.0169, straubs.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
pork coppa steak at bulrush
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
bulrush BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON
It would be tempting to dismiss as pretense and gimmick a restaurant based entirely on interpreting Ozarkian food through a modern lens. But when chef-owner Rob Connoley explained our tasting menu at Bulrush was “taken from the period of the Ozarks between 1820 and 1870,” and told a story behind each course, there was no denying the restaurant is honest and special … and that the man spends a lot of time in the woods. After nearly three years of fits and starts, Connoley opened his hotly anticipated, seemingly impractical but infinitely imaginative restaurant in the Grand Center Arts District. It is a stunning space designed to reflect the restaurant’s focus on foraged food rooted in Ozark cuisine.
n e w
August 2019
a n d
n o t a b l e
B U L R U S H
p .
2 7
/ /
n i g h t l i f e
B E M I S T O N
C O C K TA I L
C L U B
p .
3 0
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3
With Bulrush, Connoley reprises the philosophy behind Curious Kumquat, the foraging-forward restaurant he operated in Silver City, New Mexico, which enthralled food writers from The New York Times to Saveur and garnered the selftaught chef a 2014 James Beard Best Chef: Southwest nomination. Now, Connoley can expand his passion for foraging, this time with more abundant seasonal options obtained through his relationships with numerous area farmers and landowners. Between moving home in 2016 and opening Bulrush in April, Connoley consulted historians and studied journals, letters and other historical documents from the early 19th century to learn what people in the Ozark region grew, hunted and ate. At the same time, he enamored adventurous eaters with a series of exciting and curious pop-up dinners and operated Squatter’s Café, a gem of a counter eatery he ran inside the KDHX building with Justin Bell, now Bulrush’s sous chef. From acorns, black walnuts and persimmons to elderberries, bluebell flowers and pawpaws, every dish incorporates some foraged component paired and presented in unusual and unexpected ways, conveying the coy experimentation Connoley thrives on. And no, Bulrush does not serve squirrel – though I did overhear the affable Connoley describe one of the dishes during a recent seven-course meal as including “nearly everything a squirrel eats because I couldn’t serve the squirrel.” Only Connoley’s mind could take a few ingredients a squirrel eats and reimagined them into that dizzying dish: a fried doughnut made with acorn flour and composed around a chunk of rutabaga under a pillow of white chocolate-potato mousse and a drizzle of hazelnut praline sauce. On top, a single leaf of Swiss chard soaked in black walnut pickling liquid and dehydrated to resemble “a
28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
from left, sous chef justin bell and chefowner rob connoley
the amazake sphere course at bulrush
leaf on the forest floor.” Persimmon wood, Connoley explained as we stared dumbfounded, provided the smoky flavor. Suspense preceded the whimsical when Connoley first placed the dish in front of us – a covered vessel handmade to resemble an acorn. If Bulrush could serve squirrel – or opossum or grouse or raccoon, for that matter – I’d eat it solely based on how Connoley uses meat. Pork coppa, a meaty shoulder muscle with remarkable tenderness and flavor, was new to me. Comparing it to a boneless pork steak, Bell explained they’re fortunate to source it from a butcher in Illinois. A tart, acidic sauce made from wood sorrel helped cut through the fattiness of the meat, while fermented wheatberries, pattypan and zephyr squash, marinated raw zucchini and chanterelle mushrooms completed the course, one of several in a never-wearying procession. More pork, ground with venison into a coarse forcemeat topped with braised collard greens, made for a quirky little dish when capped with a thin, opaque disc of aspic gelee made from green tomato consommé. A couple bites in and the mellow bitterness of the tender greens, along with the lively acidic tones of a German pinot blanc paired with the dish, perfectly balanced the meat’s richness. A couple acorn crisps on the side provided nutty crunch.
Another course, a compare-and-contrast study in what our eyes see and what our brain registers as taste, consisted of two little orbs in a bowl with pickled strawberries, green tomato marmalade and a yucca blossom. On the tongue, one felt like ice cream but tasted of creme fraiche and yogurt. Biting into the solidified shell of the other and a rush of amazake – fermented sake brewed from Missouri jasmine rice – filled the mouth with delicious, shocking sweet liquid. Cocktails, both boozy and spirit-free, also abide by Bulrush’s self-imposed construct due to the impressive resourcefulness of bar manager Chris Voll – previously known for his cocktail wizardry at Elaia and Olio – and his team of similarly devoted bartenders. Citrus wasn’t available in the Ozarks, so Voll makes fruit vinegar to stand in for lemon, lime and orange. For sweetness there’s local pawpaw and honey. Aromatic spiciness? A little sprig of spicebush or cardamom goes a long way. All wines are organic, natural or biodynamic and reflect the critical role Missouri rootstock played in the 19th century wine industry, from the German immigrants who settled Hermann and learned to cultivate native grapes out of sheer necessity to saving many French vineyards from a blight of aphid-like insects. Voll did a great
bulrush
Where 3307 Washington Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1208, bulrushstl.com Vibe Sophisticated and spare without feeling affected or aloof Entree Prices A la carte bar menu: $12 to $19; seven-course tasting menu: $100; beverage pairing: $55 When Thu. – Sun., 5 to 10 p.m. Reservations strongly recommended.
August 2019
job explaining the Missouri connection to the German and French wines he was pouring as part of the smart pairings, but what a treat it would have been to toss in a couple of Missouri’s lesser known dry wines, like a big and brambly Norton (our state grape), a tranquil medium-bodied chambourcin or a crisp seyval blanc. Bulrush offers a handful of meal-size entrees available at the bar with no reservations needed. I liked the venison, a ground and grilled patty painted with black walnut-barbecue sauce served over Missouri jasmine rice, but found too much competition between the accompanying cabbage kimchi, tomatoinfused cucumbers, spring onion salad and final drizzle of persimmon tzatziki sauce. Still, the bar is a good way to experience Bulrush if you’re not ready to commit the time, energy and expense to the tasting menu (for which your credit card will be billed when you make a reservation online). At the end of seven courses – after experiencing Connoley’s alchemy of molecular gastronomy combined with hyper-seasonal foraging, drinking good wine and learning a thing or two about Ozark cuisine – we were presented with a little gift box to soften the blow of the bill. (However, prices at Bulrush are all-inclusive, meaning everything, from a $5 Busch tallboy to the $100 seven-course dinner, include tax and tip.) Inside, there’s a souvenir menu and a persimmon cookie so tempting I wanted to gobble it in the car despite my utter satisfaction. The box also includes a couple of persimmon seeds that you can plant, just in case you prefer gardening to foraging.
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
NIGHTLIFE
the dining room at bemiston cocktail club
rosé paloma
wham bam family man
bemiston cocktail club BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Tucked beyond a long, dark hallway and a cool blue neon Cocktail Club sign, the place feels like a secret. The bar greets you August 2019
right inside the door, and many of the cocktails are batched, which means you can have a drink in your hand almost immediately. Unfussy as the setup is, it also feels private and clubby. A tall hedge stands guard in front of the wall of windows, providing privacy and a lovely filter for the late afternoon light. The feeling is amplified after dark, when the space glows with candles and strings of Edison bulbs. Add some gentle crooning from singers like Louis Armstrong, nestle into a dark green, curved leather booth with a pretty
perfect dirty martini in hand, and you’ve got a nice little late evening. Bemiston’s cocktail menu matches the space – straightforward, fun and classy. It features a seasonally rotating list of four specialty concoctions, all $10, as well as four classic cocktails, all $9 and expertly done. The Rosé Paloma is a light, zippy twist made with Shacksbury rosé cider, grapefruit and tequila blanco. The Trifecta, another great seasonal option, combines applejack, rum and bourbon slightly
The classics are also well done, particularly the previously mentioned dirty martini. One of the batched options, the martini is served lightning-quick in a glass washed with lemon oil for a drink with a unique, subtle hint of citrus. Presentation is understated with simple glassware and pretty garnishes: a dehydrated lime wheel and salt for the Rosé Paloma, a big sprig of mint for The Trifecta, a vermouth-infused olive for the martini and waxy pineapple leaves and dehydrated pineapple for the Wham Bam Family Man, Bemiston’s lighter take on a pina colada.
NIGHTLIFE
A Clayton address often signals a highbrow scene, but Bemiston Cocktail Club leans casual, efficiently mixing up simple, fun cocktails in a relaxed space and offering a long-needed, late-night option to the city’s nightlife. It’s a chilled out reimagining of Extra Brut, the location’s former Champagne bar by the same owners.
sweetened with mint simple syrup. The three liquors together have a brown sugary sweetness, balanced by cooling mint freshness.
wedge salad
Bemiston Cocktail Club 16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, bemiston cocktail.club
A small, affordable selection of wines and beer is also available. Wines are $9 to $12 per glass, and beer ranges from $2 for Old Milwaukee to $5 for craft brews. If you can’t decide between beer or liquor, order the
Bemmy, $5 for a can of Old Milwaukee and a shot of house whiskey.
The slim food menu is focused on American bar classics. The chili dog is great with a Hawaiian roll toasted just enough to provide a little crunch. The wedge salad is big enough to be a meal in itself. It’s topped with blue cheese, tomato, bacon and perhaps a tad too much green goddess dressing. You can also get onion rings, tater tots and fries, as well as lighter snacks such as spiced nuts and nacho popcorn. The popcorn sounded great in theory but was a little stale when I tried it. Bemiston Cocktail Club is the rare cocktailfocused establishment that is serious about its drinks but doesn’t overcomplicate them. It’s actually kind of a relief to walk into a nice bar and have a short, thoughtful list instead of pages upon pages of options. It also manages to be tasteful and approachable, whether you’re dropping in for an after-work happy hour or grabbing one last nightcap after an evening out.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31
32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
SPONSORED CONTENT
Cater to your every whim COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY
A
re you hosting an event and aren’t sure how to pull off feeding your guests, whether you’ll have five or 5,000? From landmark purveyors that have been feeding the region for decades to up-and-coming restaurants, we've got recommendations with a range of cuisines for any kind of event. Save this issue for reference for the next time you’re planning a wedding, corporate event, birthday party or any other shindig you devise.
CHAMPIONSHIP CATERING This five-star wedding and event caterer serves most of the big-name performers at Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre, corporations, private parties and all of St. Louis’ top wedding venues. With 35 years experience, owner Larry G. is a master menu planner, catering to nearly any dietary restriction or desire. Dreaming up your next event? Everybody loves Action Stations, where chefs create made-to-order meals, including omelets, pasta, grain bowls, salads, street tacos and even lo mein. Championship Catering was also named one of the top 25 caterers in St. Louis by the St. Louis Business Journal and has won numerous other awards. 808 N. Mason Road, Creve Coeur, 314.606.9520, championshipcatering.com
August May 2019 2019
saucemagazine.com saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 33 I3
SPONSORED CONTENT
DAVID KIRKLAND CATERING David Kirkland Catering specializes in meeting all of your catering needs, from weddings and galas to offsite corporate events and private dinners. They pride themselves on constantly evolving the menu with what is in season. Located on the first floor of the .Zack building in the heart of the Grand Center Arts District, DKC caters all events booked through the Kranzberg Arts Foundation at the .Zack. For catering inquiries: catering@ davidkirklandcatering.com. For information on booking at the .Zack: becky@ kranzbergartsfoundation.org. 3224 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.267.5401, davidkirkland.com
DUKE’S BBQ SHACK Duke’s BBQ offers a unique variety of delicious foods and can customize your catering needs to accommodate any size, dietary restriction and craving. Located in downtown Wentzville, Duke’s offers pickup or corporate delivery to the surrounding area, including St. Charles and St. Louis counties. Upon request, staff members can tastefully serve your event. Duke’s takes a farmto-table approach by buying local produce and meats and prepares everything daily to ensure freshness. Duke’s catering options range from boxed lunches and small gatherings to weddings and corporate events. Let Duke’s cater your next special event. Everyone loves Duke’s BBQ! 100 Ash St., Wentzville, 636.856.9227, dukesbbqshack.com
FLAMENTCO’S THE PLACE Let Flamentco’s The Place make your next catered event a hit with its vast selection of pasta, wings, salads, subs and pizza sure to satisfy everyone’s taste buds. Email brittany.flament@ yahoo.com with event type, guest count and budget for the best deal possible. The eatery also has the best lunch in downtown St. Louis with a variety of great combos, from wings and salads to slices and subs, including the
These trusted pros will make hosting your next party a cinch. classic, fully loaded Italian Sub and a spicy, exotic Caribbean Jerk Chicken Sub. Looking for something quick? The express lunch combo with two slices and a drink is only $7. A full menu is available online. 418 S. Tucker Blvd., St. Louis, 314.931.2275; 711 W. Hwy. 50, O'Fallon, Illinois, 618.726.2275, flamentcopizza.com
GOURMET SOUL RESTAURANT AND CATERING At Gourmet Soul Restaurant and Catering, the success of your event is the most important priority. Their goal is to combine creativity, passion and professionalism in everything they do. They specialize in making your vision a reality and concentrate on serving the customer’s needs, whatever they may be. Gourmet Soul offers a party room rental that seats 50 at $200 for 3 hours and $70 for each additional hour. If you desire more space, there’s also a 5,000-square-foot banquet hall that seats up to 200 that rents for $1,150 for 6 hours. Let Gourmet Soul host your next event. 1620 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.339.5658, gourmetsoul.com
HOLLYBERRY BAKING AND CATERING For two decades, Hollyberry Baking and Catering has worked with clients to bring their distinct styles and tastes to life with carefully planned weddings and
4 I ISAUCE 34 SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI Isaucemagazine.com saucemagazine.com
corporate events. As leaders in the industry, Hollyberry is known for creative ingenuity and unparalleled commitment to the customer. Hollyberry Catering has been voted “Favorite St. Louis Caterer” by the readers of Sauce Magazine for eight consecutive years. Hollyberry Catering has also been honored by the St. Louis Chapter of the International Special Events Society as a winner of many esteemed awards, including Best Wedding Event, Best Off-Premise Catered Event and Best Food Presentation. 10037 Manchester Road, Warson Woods, 314.835.9977, hollyberrycatering.com
JILLY’S CUPCAKE BAR Jilly’s Cupcake Bar is an awardwinning cupcake shop that participated three times on Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars,” winning twice. They carry that same pride and desire for perfection into their catering services and are considered by their customers to be a top St. Louis caterer. Jilly’s has a standard catering menu or is also capable of custom designing a menu specific to your event to ensure it’s a success. Naturally, Jilly’s cupcakes create the perfect end to any event. Conveniently located at 170 and Delmar, Jilly’s pricing is flexible and the services are the best. 8509 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.993.5455, jillyscupcakebar.com
ORLANDO’S EVENT CENTERS This family-owned and -operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 50 years. Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butler-passed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations. Orlando’s caters to private homes and offices, and is also a preferred caterer at over 30 unique venues. They offer allinclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail. 2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com
PIECES BOARD GAME BAR & RESTAURANT Pieces Board Game Bar & Restaurant has the monopoly (no pun intended) on fun in St. Louis. Pieces is not only known for its impressive library of over 900 curated board games and Game Navigators who can teach those games, but also for its diverse fare and innovative cocktail selection. The very definition of a unique dining experience, Pieces is a hotspot location for corporate team-building events, holiday parties and social
gatherings. Offering an extensive, from-scratch catering menu and bakery for custom cakes, Pieces provides on-site catering to parties who pre-reserve their exclusive private rooms, book a happy hour or rent the full venue for a daytime event. 1535 S. 8th St., St. Louis, 314.230.5184, stlpieces.com
SUGARFIRE EVENTS Sugarfire Events caters both formal and casual events at venues all across the greater St. Louis area, including the gorgeous Silver Oaks Chateau, along with its own venue at the Boathouse in Forest Park. Whether you’re hosting a house party, wedding, corporate event or anything in between, Sugarfire can fuel up to 5,000 guests with everything from barbecue to upscale finger food, sandwiches, salads and desserts in a variety of cuisines. Email sugarfirelass@ gmail.com for more information. Various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com
THE BAKED BEAR The Baked Bear StL specializes in custom ice cream sandwiches, and that is exactly how they approach your special event. With over 10,000 item combinations and multiple presentation options, they want to work directly with you to fit within your vision. Ice cream and cookies are a great way to bring joy, so why not add that joy to your event? To schedule an event consultation and sampling, email stlouis@thebakedbear.com or call Colin at the number below. 6140 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.368.9124, thebakedbear. com/st-louis
THE PASTA HOUSE CO. Turn a nearly 50-year St. Louis tradition into a memorable experience by allowing The Pasta House Co. to supply your catering needs, whether you’re hosting a wedding, birthday party, business lunch or anything in between. Rent one of several private banquet rooms throughout the May 2019 2019 August
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35
36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
SPONSORED CONTENT
Catering doesn’t have to be complicated. city or let The Pasta House Co. come to your space. From hot, cheesy garlic bread and bacon-wrapped scallops to caprese salad, chicken spiedini, tortellini and so much more, a variety of options and full-service solutions are sure to please every palate. Call the number below or email catering@thepastahouse.com for more information. Multiple locations, 314.644.1400, pastahouse.com
THE SOCIAL AFFAIR At The Social Affair, the goal is to tell your story through a thoughtfully planned, immersive experience that’s executed flawlessly with meticulous, impeccable style and service. Bring your vision to life, whether that’s cocktailstyle, family-style or a beautifully plated dinner, with specially tailored menus featuring the highest-quality ingredients available. They are the premier interactive food station caterer, which allows guests to create their own dish and offers an extraordinary experience. The Social Affair was also voted The Best of The Knot 2018 and 2019 and May 2019 August 2019
was named one of the top 25 caterers in St. Louis by the St. Louis Business Journal in 2019. 2232 Thurman Ave., St. Louis, 314.300.8500, thesocialaffairstl.com
QUINTESSENTIAL DINING AND NIGHTLIFE Quintessential Dining & Nightlife has been serving the area for 10 years specializing in restaurantquality catering. With three levels of entertaining space at their location on Historic Main Street in St. Charles, or the ability to cater at your home, office or venue, Quintessential truly does it all. The wine room in the basement can host up to 22 guests. The members area is great for rehearsals, showers, reunions and corporate events and can host from 40 to 100 guests. The rooftop can sit up to 150 guests or 300 for appetizers. With a unique array of house-made appetizers to a full carving station, the contemporary menu has it all. Buffets start $8 person. Email erin@q-stl.com for more information. 149 N. Main St., St. Charles, 636.443.2211, q-stl.com saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 37 I7 saucemagazine.com
From underground restaurants to oneoff collaborations, pop-ups are shaping STL’s food scene BY C HE LS IE HE LLIGE PHOTOS BY GREG RA NNE LLS
38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
ramen x rui's ramen opposite page: ramen x rui chefowner steven pursley
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
taking our seats, we got acquainted with our fellow diners. Smart, zippy conversation flowed freely. Finally, the chefs stepped out to welcome the group, briefly guiding us through the evening’s 15-course menu. Itoyoridai sashimi. Short ribs. Isaan hamachi. Laab tartare. I eagerly unrolled my chopsticks from their napkin, looking forward to the unlikely collision of Japanese, Thai and American South flavors. This was going to be good. The concept of pop-up dinners is nothing new. This particular affair, a star-crossed collaboration between chefs Nick Bognar and Chris Bork, was part of Bognar’s recent Omakase dinner series. Aside from one constant – impeccable nigiri – the format was fluid; some dinners took place at Nippon Tei (Bognar’s family’s restaurant – Indo is his new one) and others came together off-site.
Normally, I wouldn’t go out in weather like this. It was an unseasonably cold night in March, a fresh blanket of snow doing little to soften the icy pavement. Normally, I would have happily succumbed to fleece joggers, Netflix and whatever leftovers remained in the fridge. Instead, my husband and I stood shivering in front of an unassuming door in South City, having forsaken those comforts in favor of something a bit less familiar. What the heck are we doing here? Before I could summon more questions, the door swung open. Our host greeted
40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
us warmly, then quickly shuffled inside from the cold. “Right this way!” she motioned, leading us up a dark flight of stairs. The treads beneath our feet creaked. The din of people talking grew louder. A woman laughed. “Oh!” I heard myself blurt, reaching the top. A row of small candles dotted an entry table. A dimly lit living room vibrated with the energy of strangers mingling around a long, communal table appointed with white linens and floppy, casual flowers. I spotted a bunch of vinyl, which explained the music. Is anyone else Shazaming this right now? It was impossibly hip. After
While never commonplace, pop-ups like this are increasingly common in restaurants, private homes and rented spaces across St. Louis, announced via social media. Long popular with chefs eager to test a concept or drum up anticipation for a future brick-andmortar, the events are now coming of age as destinations in their own right. With comparatively low barriers to entry, pop-up restaurants stand poised for bold experimentation, addressing market gaps with limited risk. Take Ramen x Rui as an example. After learning the ropes working at several ramen shops in Japan, Steven Pursley returned to St. Louis to open his own. But he wasn’t ready to take on a lease the moment he landed. Instead, he launched the ramen pop-up, Ramen x Rui, last summer. I got to experience some seriously good bowls of noods from the kitchen in his small city apartment earlier this year. There’s nothing quite
August 2019
kayla doughty assists guests at ramen x rui, the pop-up steven pursely hosts at his apartment.
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41
ramen x rui chefowner steven pursley learned to make ramen in japan. now he runs pop-up ramen dinners from his home kitchen.
42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
like jockeying for a folding chair or couch spot in a stranger’s living room, slurping ramen surrounded by small groups of friends you’ve never met and in-the-know foodies. In other words, if you want to try something new and exciting, go to a popup. This hasn’t been lost on savvy diners in search of authentic flavors and offbeat experiences. Akin to eclipse chasers, these diners – call them pop-up aficionados – relish seeking out fleeting opportunities for interesting things to eat. The best pop-up format? According to diner Jae Yoon, the more intimate, the better. Yoon should know – he’s a frequent guest at pop-ups around St. Louis and beyond, including the popup in my front yard where I met him last year. (More on that later.) “I really enjoy it when the seating is communal, and I get to meet new people outside of my usual personal or professional circles,” Yoon said. He explained that pop-up chefs seem inclined to take more risks, using uncommon ingredients while also sharing the inspiration behind their dishes. Chat Kidkul, a fellow diner I got to know during that snowy night’s Omakase, echoed the sentiment. “I just love the spontaneity of it,” he added. “The excitement of the unknown. Food brings people together, and [they] forge new friendships. That’s the most exciting part of these dinners.” Clandestino emphasized this element when it launched with a “secret chef ” in late 2018. Formerly shrouded in mystery, the pop-up has since revealed itself as a mouthwatering partnership between chef Alex Henry (ClevelandHeath executive chef ) and Bohlen Family Farms. The excitement of the unknown is such a key ingredient, in fact, that nobody seems to agree on what a pop-up even is – including the chefs themselves. “Is it a pop-up? I think of Omakase as more of a dinner series,” Bork said. The man has a point. “Pop-up” is something of a nebulous catch-all for any nontraditional dining experience.
August 2019
For the sake of this article, let’s just say: tomatoes, to-mah-toes. Whatever you call it, more and more chefs are experimenting with temporary concepts these days, for reasons as diverse as the chefs themselves. Some, like Bognar, focus on collaboration. Others employ the pop-up format as a quick and nimble means of starting a restaurant. In the case of chef Logan Ely, the beta-test ran deep. Before opening his acclaimed new restaurant, Savage, late last year in Fox Park, Ely operated Square1 Project at an undisclosed location on Delmar Boulevard. The underground dinner series was a first step; a way to “fail forward,” Ely explained. He’d wanted to find his voice before opening a permanent establishment with all its ambitious demands. At Square1 Project, Ely was as particular about setting the mood as he was about experimenting with offbeat ingredients – and it seems he was onto something. At Savage, the combined results speak for themselves. But opening a restaurant isn’t always the goal. The Fattened Caf, which now caters and pops up at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market with American and Filipino barbecue, started as a labor of love for married couple Charlene Lopez Young and Darren Young. Last summer, my husband, Ekkachai Danwanichakul, and I started our own pop-up – a Thai supper series called Spirit House – out of a love of sharing real (not Americanized) Thai food with our friends. Now our eight-seat dinner table is regularly crowded with guests we’ve met through Instagram, sharing banter around communal dishes to the vibes of ’60s Thai pop. It’s personal and a bit weird – just the way we like it. Dining, as it turns out, can be much more than merely eating food. In contrast, the best meals are often creative and communal experiences – a feeling that’s harder to replicate within the rigid formats of restaurants and their often unforgiving bottom lines. Given the recent popularity of pop-ups, it seems St. Louis diners might just have a growing appetite for the less expected – and for this pop-up aficionado-intraining, that’s music to my ears.
Ongoing pop-ups to watch Ramen x Rui After learning the ropes working at several ramen shops in Japan, Steven Pursley returned to St. Louis to open his own. He started with Ramen x Rui, serving up seriously good ramen from his home kitchen. Since then, Pursley has branched out to look for a place of his own (exciting, though we’ll miss comfortably slurping ramen with strangers on his couch.) Follow @ramenxrui_stl on Instagram for the latest pop-up announcements and collaborations.
The Fattened Caf For a real taste of Filipino cuisine with a side of Southern-style barbecue, look no further than The Fattened Caf. Charlene Lopez Young and Darren Young’s labor of love has morphed into a fullfledged business; the couple started slinging Filipino brunch at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market this summer. And, if you didn’t make it to one of their Filipinostyle pop-ups in the past, have no fear: They plan to do more in partnership with
local restaurants. (Hot tip: They also cater and sometimes offer private Kamayan feasts if you ask.) Follow @thefattenedcaf on Instagram for future pop-up plans and more.
Clandestino Launched in late 2018 touting a “secret chef,” this pop-up dinner series revealed itself to be a collaboration between ClevelandHeath executive chef Alex Henry and Bohlen Family Farms. Clandestino dinners appear to happen less than monthly and move locations; the first was hosted at Confluence Kombucha and the second at Byrd & Barrel. If mystery’s not your thing, you might be in luck: They do drop hints periodically (and dinner tickets) on Instagram. Follow @clandestinostl for updates.
Spirit House I started this Thai supper series with my husband, Ekkachai Danwanichakul, last summer. We wanted to share real (not Americanized) Thai food with our friends, and now our eight-seat dinner table is regularly crowded with guests we’ve met online. Follow @spirithousestl on Instagram for information on our next pop-up.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43
44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
S I M P LY
T O M AT O T A
R T
I
N
E
R E C I P E O N P. 49
46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
BY LAUREN HEALEY PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
T O M AT O E S With tomatoes in abundance at farmers markets, in our gardens and on our plates, we’re all about enjoying the harvest’s bounty in fun, new ways. Here, some of our favorite local chefs share their favorite simple, tomato-centric recipes with minimal cooking, from Israeli bruschetta to tomato tartine. August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47
T O M AT O S
A
L
A
D
R E C I P E O N P. 49
48 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
• In a large mixing bowl, combine the peaches, tomatoes, husk cherries and mint chiffonade. Toss with the olive oil and salt. • Serve immediately with the crostini or crackers.
TOMATO CARPACCIO
courtesy of Farmhaus’ Kevin Willmann 4 SERVINGS
•
• •
TOMATO SA LAD
courtesy of Vicia’s Michael Gallina 6 SERVINGS 3 to 4 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges Sea salt, to taste 3 Tbsp. olive oil 3 Tbsp. orange juice 3 Tbsp. raspberry vinegar 3 peaches, cut into wedges 1 small cantaloupe, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved ½ lb. cherries, halved 1 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger 1 bunch thyme 1 stalk lemongrass, sliced 1 bunch basil, torn ½ cup crumbled feta • In a large serving bowl, add the heirloom tomatoes and lightly August 2019
•
season with the salt. Set aside to allow the salt to draw out some juice. In a small bowl, make a vinaigrette by whisking the olive oil, orange juice and vinegar. Season to taste and set aside. Scatter the peaches and cantaloupe atop the salted tomatoes. In another bowl, add the cherry tomatoes, cherries and ginger and toss with the vinaigrette. Wrap the thyme and lemongrass in cheesecloth and tie with a string. Submerge the cheesecloth in the bowl of fruit with vinaigrette and marinate 30 minutes. Discard the cheesecloth pouch. To serve, add the marinated cherry tomatoes and cherries atop the heirloom tomatoes. Spoon some of the vinaigrette on top. Sprinkle with the basil and feta.
SUNGOL D TO MATO SA L AD
courtesy of Farmhaus’ Kevin Willmann 2 TO 4 SERVINGS 2 peaches, pitted, medium-diced 1½ pints sungold tomatoes, halved ¼ cup husk cherries, skin removed, larger ones sliced in half ¼ cup mint chiffonade (rolled and sliced into ribbons) 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of sea salt Crostini or salty crackers, for serving
3 lemon cucumbers, thinly sliced* 2 large watermelon radishes, peeled and very thinly sliced 1½ lbs. heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. everything bagel spice 1 Tbsp. sea salt Fresh garden herbs like oregano, chive, basil, thyme or bronze fennel, for garnish • On 4 salad plates, arrange the cucumbers, radishes and tomatoes, alternating the three in a circle, a line or a serpentine pattern. • Garnish with the olive oil, everything spice, sea salt and herbs.
• In a large bowl, combine the sliced onion, tomatoes, cucumbers, green beans, pepper and salt. Toss with vinaigrette to taste. • Refrigerate 1 to 4 hours before serving, or up to 24 hours. • Place in serving bowl and top with the feta. Vinaigrette Reserved spring bulb onion green tops 1 clove garlic 1 Tbsp. water, plus more as needed ¹∕³ cup balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 cup olive oil Freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt, to taste • In a food processor, add the onion greens, garlic and water and pulse until blended. • Add the vinegar and mustard, pulse, and then slowly add the oil in a steady stream with the food processor running until the oil is just emulsified. Add the pepper and salt.
TO MATO TA RTINE
courtesy of Vicia’s Michael Gallina * Lemon cucumbers are available at local farmers markets and from Such and Such Farm. If you cannot find them, substitute any cucumber.
GARDEN TOMATO SA LAD
courtesy of J. Devoti Trattoria’s Anthony Devoti 6 SERVINGS 3 spring bulb onions 3 to 4 heirloom or large red tomatoes, cubed, or 4 cups cherry tomato, halved 2 English or soyo long cucumbers, thinly sliced 1 cup green beans, cut into ½-inch lengths and blanched Freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt, to taste Vinaigrette, to taste (recipe follows) ½ to ¾ cup feta or other cheese • Thinly slice the onions. Reserve ¾ of the green tops and set aside for the vinaigrette.
8 SERVINGS 1 porridge or whole-wheat loaf, cut into ½-inch slices Olive oil, for toasting and drizzling 2 cups fresh basil, divided 1 cup ricotta 2 to 3 heirloom or beefsteak tomatoes Sea salt, to taste Raspberry vinegar, to taste • Brush the bread with the olive oil. Toast under the broiler until golden brown. Set aside. • In the bowl of a food processor, add the 1 cup basil, ricotta and salt, and pulse until smooth and the basil is incorporated. • Cut the tomatoes into ¼-inch slices and set on a sheet tray. Sprinkle with the salt and drizzle with the raspberry vinegar and more olive oil. Marinate 5 to 10 minutes. • To serve, smear the whipped ricotta on the toasted bread, layer with the tomatoes, then finish with a chiffonade of the remaining basil and more sea salt. Cut in half on a diagonal. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49
ISRAELI B
R
U
S
C
H
E
T
T
A
courtesy of Olio’s Ben Poremba 6 TO 8 SERVINGS ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish ½ cup grape seed oil ½ cup red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, shaved or thinly sliced, plus more for toast 1 Serrano pepper, shaved or thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. Urfa pepper* 1 tsp. dried mint 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes Baguette, ciabatta or rustic country bread slices, for serving Sea salt Basil, cilantro, mint and parsley, for garnish • In a mixing bowl, combine the olive oil, grape seed oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, Serrano pepper, Urfa pepper and mint. Set aside. • On a sheet tray, arrange the tomatoes in rows. With a small, handheld torch, char the tomatoes on all sides. (If you don’t own a torch, use a hot grill.) While the tomatoes are still hot, immediately submerge them in the marinade. Tomatoes will keep refrigerated up to 1 week. • To serve, toast the bread in a hot oven or on a grill. Generously rub with the fresh garlic and top with the tomato mixture. Drizzle with additional olive oil and sprinkle with the sea salt. Garnish with the herbs and serve immediately. * Available at Global Foods Market or Amazon.
50 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
August 2019
T O M AT O C A R P A C C I O R E C I P E O N P. 49
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
Grocery scores Visit a local grocery store and you’re bound to see flashy endcaps advertising a way to bring your favorite St. Louis restaurant home. But not all mass-produced products emblazoned with trusted eateries’ logos are created equal. Here are a few classic options we can get behind. – Heather Hughes
Citizen Kane’s Steak Seasoning With multifaceted spice and clear notes of onion and garlic, Citizen Kane’s steak seasoning is more than just salt with a different label. $6.50. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com
Photo by Julia Calleo
Bartolino’s Marinara Sauce Many jarred tomato sauces are too sweet or bitter. Bartolino’s has a good, clean tomato flavor, strong garlic notes and nice acidity. $6. Kenrick’s Meats & Catering, 4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com
52 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Andria’s Brush-On Steak Sauce This steak sauce is a St. Louis institution. Rather than a wallop of sugar or salt, it brings a rich and complex umami to anything you throw it at. $6. Straub’s, 302 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.361.6646, straubs.com
August 2019
Twisted Ranch Garlic Smashed Buffalo One of five dressings mass-produced by Kraft for St. Louis’ Twisted Ranch restaurant, the spice and garlic of this addictive dip made it our favorite. $2.50. Walmart, various locations, walmart.com
Sugarfire Smoke House Honey Sriracha BBQ Sauce The unique, subtly sweet heat of this St. Louis barbecue sauce set it apart. $4.50. Schnucks, various locations, schnucks.com
August 2019
Zia’s Sweet Italian Oil & Vinegar Dressing Of the many bottled dressings from The Hill, this is our favorite. Its sweetness is balanced by a sharp tang of vinegar. $4. DiGregorio’s Italian Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 53
L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O
AUGUST
BY DAUN LEE AND MARCELLE OWONA SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS Art Hill Film Series Aug. 2 – 6 to 11:30 p.m., Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org/events Wrap up this free outdoor film series with “The Goonies.” Before showtime, grab grub from the Food Truck Fest.
Grace City Wide Fair
Reggae Sunsplash
Festival of Nations
Aug. 4 – noon to 5 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4257 Northeast Drive, St. Louis, 314.533.2700, Facebook: Grace City Wide Fair This free “county fair” at Tower Grove Park features for-purchase nostalgic fair foods with a twist from local eateries like Grace Meat + Three, Seoul Taco, Farmhaus and more. 4 Hands Brewing Co. serves county fair-inspired beers alongside its other popular options, as well as 1220 Artisan Spirits canned cocktails.
Aug. 17 – 1 to 5 p.m., Robller Vineyard, 275 Robller Vineyard Road, New Haven, 573.237.3986, robllerwines.com Don’t worry, be happy at the 26th annual Reggae Sunsplash with Jamaican fare like jerk and curry chicken, rice and peas, beef and veggie patties, rum cake and Jamaican escovitch fish. Groove to live music by Crucial Rootz, then hit the tasting room for wine samples. Tickets available at the door.
Aug. 24 – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Aug. 25 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4257 Northeast Drive, St. Louis, 314.773.9090, festivalofnationsstl.org Gather friends and family for the region’s largest multicultural event. Peruse over 45 ethnic food booths to sample fare from Brasilia Bar & Restaurant, La Columbianita, The Croquetterie and more. This free event, hosted by the International Institute, also includes a bazaar, craft demos, workshops, and traditional performances.
Food Truck Friday Aug. 9 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Enjoy live music from The Dust Covers while you grab food from more than 20 trucks, as well as beer and wine from 4 Hands Brewing Co., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards. Rise Up Festival Aug. 17 – 2 to 11 p.m., 1627 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.333.7008, riseupfestival.org This free outdoor festival celebrates the revitalization of downtown with live music, art and local vendors. Enjoy food for purchase from places like MO Tamales and 314 The City Bar, and beer from Civil Life Brewing Co. Alton Food Truck Festival Aug. 24 – 4 to 8 p.m., Liberty Bank Alton Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 800.258.6645, libertybankamphitheater.com Head over the Mississippi River for a free food truck festival. Purchase grub from trucks like Truck Norris, Pig on a Wing and Seoul Taco, while jamming to live music.
Roasted Coffee and Wine Bar Dinner
Harvest Dinner with David Kirkland
Aug. 14 and 28 – 6 p.m., Roasted Coffee and Wine Bar, 21 Meadows Circle Drive, Suite 326A, Lake Saint Louis, 636.695.8599, roastedcoffeewine.com Join chef Jay Cervone of Roasted Coffee and Wine Bar and Prados for a three-course meal featuring a caprese salad, choice of osso bucco or roasted sea bass and tiramisu. Wine options include 2014 Terra Sanctus Clos La Rae, 2017 Neboa Albariño and more. Tickets available by phone.
Aug. 17 – 7 to 9:30 p.m., Food Roof Farm, 1335 Convention Plaza, St. Louis, 314.810.6770, urbanharveststl.org Enjoy local food and live music atop the Urban Harvest Food Roof Farm as chef David Kirkland of Turn churns out a multicourse meal with beverage pairings using fresh produce from the rooftop farm. The event celebrates local food systems and fosters relationships between food, people and nature. Tickets available online.
54 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Taste of Africa Aug. 31 to Sept. 1 – noon to 7 p.m., O’Fallon Park, 799 E. Taylor Ave., St. Louis, 314.309.1922, tasteofafricastl.com Enjoy two days of free festivities celebrating African art and culture. Nosh on a range of food for purchase, like Caribbean jerk chicken and jollof rice from West Africa while enjoying various Africancentered performances like dance, drums and more.
Bissinger’s, Bourbon & BBQ Aug. 25 – 1 to 4 p.m., The Caramel Room, 1600 N. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.615.2480, caramelroom.com Sample more than 100 bourbons at this annual event. Chef Nicholas Miller roasts a whole hog, and there are also barbecue food stations and signature cocktails. Tickets available online and at The Chocolate Pig. Clayton Brews, Blues + BBQ Festival Aug. 31 – noon to 5 p.m., downtown Clayton, 314.727.8100, claytonmo.gov Try unlimited pours from more than a dozen area breweries and purchase food from The Wood Shack, Adam’s Smokehouse and more while enjoying live music from Blues City Swing. Tickets available online.
August 2019
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 55
L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
FRAN CARADONNA Fran Caradonna is one of the founding mothers of the local beer scene. Back when Anheuser-Busch dominated St. Louis, she and her then-husband Tony Caradonna started the area’s first craft beer distributor, then launched O’Fallon Brewery in the early 2000s. Earlier this year, Caradonna left O’Fallon to take a leadership role at Schlafly, which was one of her first clients in the distribution game. Now, she’s the 27-year-old brewery’s CEO. Here’s how Caradonna’s career has come full circle. – Catherine Klene
Coast and the West Coast in the late ’80s, and so we started a little beer distributorship called Signature Beer, which was focused on – we called it on microbrewery beer back then. There were no microbrewery beers available in St. Louis unless you count Anchor Steam from San Francisco.” “ S t. L o u i s wa s o n e of the last markets
for a lot of beers to come in because we were so dominated by Anheuser-Busch. … You’d go into the best beer bar in town, and it would have six draft handles, and there would be four Anheuser-Busch, a Miller and one import. And that’s what it was like. That’s why sometimes I have to do a double take when I go into some of these places that have 40 tap handles. That was beyond our wildest dreams.” “ W e r e a l ly wa n t e d t o m a k e o u r ow n b e e r .
We wanted to be on the manufacturing side. It’s just more fun. [Distribution] is a great business to be in, and
there’s people in this town who are masters at it, but it’s just more fun to make your own beer. That’s where the passion is.” “When we opened O ’ Fa l l o n , Tony and I did
everything ourselves for the first two years. We made all the beer; we packaged all the beer; we delivered all the beer. It was just the two of us for two full years. Every job there is in this place, I’ve done.” “ W e g ot a lot o f help from our c o m p e t i t i o n . … The
people that we bought the equipment from, they trained us, and we took copious notes. When the trainers went away, we’d get into a situation, and we’d say, ‘Uh, now what do we do?’ And we’d call up Stephen Hale [at Schlafly] or John Witte [at Trailhead] or Marc Gottfried [at Morgan Street] and we’d say, ‘What do we do now?’ And they’d walk us through it. That’s how we got through the first two years.” “ M a n ag i n g yo u r b u s i n e s s is way harder than
making beer. That’s what is
56 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
going to separate the girls from the women is how well we run our businesses, how diligent we are in the way we make business decisions. … I think the companies that are good businesses and are mindful of the consumer, those are the ones that are going to be here.”
… I’m uniquely qualified to do this job at this time. I couldn’t have tried to make this happen if I wanted to. It just happened that what they need right now … happens to be someone who’s been in the craft beer business for decades, and there’s just not that many of us.”
“ H ow l u c k y a m I for this
opportunity to come along at this stage of the game? I did not see this coming. It was not even in my wildest dreams.
“ I t h i n k i f yo u ’ r e n o t m a k i n g m i s ta k e s ,
you’re probably not trying hard enough. You’re not stepping
out enough. There’s a balance of risk and reward, and we have to take a little bit of risk to get that reward. So I’ll be making a few mistakes here and there, but I don’t expect any of them will be earth-shattering.”
Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com August 2019
PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
“ [ T o n y ] s aw t h i s craft beer thing h a p p e n i n g on the East
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 57
L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
YOUNG’S RESTAURANT AND ICE CREAMERY BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH
Young’s Restaurant and Ice Creamery has been a Valley Park staple since 1954. Located off Route 141, it’s survived two moves forced by street construction – first in 1988 and again in 2002. Today, it’s managed by Grant Young, whose parents opened the first location as a seasonal burger and ice cream shop for the neighborhood. “Valley Park still has that small town flavor,” Young said. “We’re kind of like Cheers; we’ll recognize you.”
We know Young’s as an ice cream destination, but it’s beloved in Valley Park for fried chicken and burgers, and the menu also features unique dishes like a pork tenderloin fritter and beer-battered Monterey Jack cheese sticks. Everything is cooked to order, and all dressings and sauces are made in-house, including tartar sauce for its North Atlantic cod. Young’s beef is sourced and ground fresh at Middendorf Meat, while its chicken is brought in from farms in Arkansas and Illinois. Young’s menu doesn’t change very often. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, you know?” Young said. “You don’t want to lose sight of what got you here.”
general manager emily young
58 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
206 Meramec Station Road, Valley Park, 636.225.6677, Facebook: Young’s Restaurant & Catering
August 2019
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
There’s something distinctly American about Young’s – the fact they’ve rolled with the punches over the years, that they’re a dining and catering destination thriving in a county full of big franchises and fast-food joints. Young, who never had political aspirations, even served as Valley Park’s mayor for two years after realizing some things in his community needed to be fixed. “Nobody else came forward,” he said.
August 2019
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 59
