August 2021

SUMMER GRILLING

Grilled Oysters with Spiced Tequila Butter, more on p. 32

August saucemagazine.com I SAUCE S 2021 T. L O U I S ’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y // S A U C E M A G A Z I N E . C O M // FREE, AUG U S T MAGAZINE 2 0 21 I 1

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August 2021

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AUGUST 2021 • VOLUME 21, ISSUE 6

Aperol spritz

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson A gin bucket Lauren Healey followed by an Adam Rothbarth afternoon nap Lauren Healey Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Julie Cohen Heather Hughes Huff Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Meera Nagarajan, The holy trinity: Adam Rothbarth, Madison Saunders, bloody mary, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky black coffee, Topo Chico. Accept no CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lauren Healey, Marianne Moore, Meera substitutes.

Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace Sparkling wine ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Angie Rosenberg (preferably Champagne) EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde and strong coffee LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde I made Martha INTERNS Sophia Daniels, Hannah Freiberg, Lilley Stewart’s Mint, Lime Holloran, Blakely Gibeaut, Rin Hubbard, and Ginger Sparkler a few weekends ago Moriah Lotsoff, Natalie Mechem, Adam and loved it.

Siddle, Emily Talkow PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR COPY EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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St. Louis, MO 63103 August 2021

contents AU G U S T 2 02 1

editors' picks

features

9 EAT THIS

18

Baklava cheesecake at The Greek Kitchen

by meera nagarajan 10 HIT LIST

THE CUBAN CONNECTION Tamara Landeiro of Havana's Cuisine food truck brings the flavors of Cuba to St. Louis

by lauren healey, michelle volansky and liz wolfson

Avocado toast

by lauren healey

13 DRINK THIS

30

14 WORKIN’ FOR THE WEEKEND Where to get bottomless cocktails at brunch

by lilley halloran, moriah lotsoff and liz wolfson

Grilling lends delectable smoky flavor to dishes of all kinds, including oysters on the half shell.

Learn more at p. 32.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

24

SHORT LIST

by adam rothbarth

BACKYARD BBQ

by iain shaw

3 new places to try this month

#94 at Olive + Oak

COVER DETAILS

COOKBOOKS WE LOVE by meera nagarajan, adam rothbarth and liz wolfson 32

BACKYARD BBQ

8 recipes for inspired summer grilling

by marianne moore

last bite 46 WHAT I DO Steve Ewing of Steve’s Hot Dogs

by lauren healey 48 LANDMARK Volpi Foods

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

by adam rothbarth

August 2021

The #94 at Olive + Oak p. 13

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Eat This E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

The colossal baklava cheesecake at The Greek Kitchen was born out of necessity. After the restaurant’s popular baklava is scooped out of pans to plate, a ton of flaky phyllo, nuts and syrup is left behind.

Instead of letting all those goodies go to waste, they get mixed into a creamy filling. The result is a sweet, decadent cheesecake scented with lemon, clove and cinnamon and studded with walnuts and shreds of phyllo.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

The Greek Kitchen, 343 S. Kirkwood Road, #101, Kirkwood, 314.462.9112, thegreekkitchen.net

August 2021

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

hit list

3 new places to try this month

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CC'S VEGAN SPOT CC’s Vegan Spot SoulVeganlicious, originally located in Alton, has relocated and brought its plantbased versions of crowd-pleasing dishes to St. Louis’ Princeton Heights neighborhood. Whether or not you’re a fan of briny mollusks, the fried oyster mushroom box’s crunchy cornmeal crust surrounding a rich, chewy interior is a bite you’ll savor – it’s a true showstopper of a dish. The It’s Not Pork, But It’s Pulled sandwich with “pulled” jackfruit coated in a sweet barbecue sauce and topped with creamy coleslaw on a glutenfree bun is a delicious take on the Memphis-style barbecue classic.

opposite page: the dining room at mezcaleria las chupacabras; this page, clockwise from left: from left, owner and bar manager victor mendieta, chef jose garcia and sous chef esbin rolando gonzales; mole poblano; tacos de birria

4993 Loughborough Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9400, ccsveganspot.com

PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

MEZCALERIA LAS CHUPACABRAS If you don’t immediately feel a dopamine rush from Mezcaleria Las Chupacabras’ wildly colorful interior or sprawling patio dotted with twinkle lights, the theatrics of tableside guacamole and the impressively large drink list (including 24 margarita flavors!) should do the trick. The food menu is full of Mexican-American classics like the sizzling steak fajitas, seasoned simply and served with grilled nopal (cactus), rice, black beans and house-made tortillas; but the must-tries are house specialties that pull influence from central and southwestern Mexico. The mixiote is a fall-off-the-bone chicken dish cooked in foil with pasilla and guajillo peppers.

The mole poblano features similarly tender chicken and a sweet, smoky mole that’s ideal for sopping up with rice and beans.

25 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, 314.256.1072, mezcalerialaschupacabras.com August 2021

SUGARWITCH Featuring ice cream sandwiches named after witches from pop culture and beyond, this is one weekly popup you do not want to miss out on.

Flavors rotate, but you can check out the week’s menu online and head to the vintage Airstream trailer set up on the Olio patio each Saturday from noon to 6 p.m. (or until sold out). We loved the Tonks (vanilla ice cream studded with chocolatecovered pretzels and a layer of peanut butter between brownies), the Tara with miso-brown sugar ice cream and chocolate chip blondies, and the Ursula with rainbow sprinkles in vanilla ice cream between salted brownies. The vegan and glutenfree Kiki with mango sorbet and toasted coconut rice crispies is perfection. Everything is house-made, including the ice cream, which uses Rolling Lawns Farm dairy.

1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 573.234.0042, sugarwitchic.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

drink this The delightful #94 cocktail at Olive + Oak plays like a well-composed dish – one sip may bring breezy flavors of strawberry and rhubarb while the next delivers an earthy hit of black pepper plus sweetness from honey and yogurt. Overall, this drink tastes like a carefree summer evening on the beach; luckily, you only have to drive to Webster Groves to experience it.

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Olive + Oak 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com

August 2021

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

Workin’ Weekend FOR THE

Whether you’re catching up with friends, brunching with your in-laws, or just hanging with your sweetie, here’s a list of spots offering weekend brunch that have you covered in the all-important bottomless cocktail department.

BY LILLEY HALLORAN, MORIAH LOTSOFF AND LIZ WOLFSON

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314 The City Bar

1137 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.2280, 314-stl.com

pomegranate, white and ruby grapefruit, cranberry, black raspberry and mango) - $20 Bottomless bloody marys (For an additional $10, you can switch from bottomless bloody mary to mimosas) - $30

Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream

512 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.3644, evangelinesstl.com

Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless traditional mimosas - $12

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $18 7376 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.449.1209, boardwalkwaffles.com

Boo Coo Saturday and Sunday Brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (Wycliff Brut, orange juice) - $15 Bottomless rosé all day mimosas (Proverb rosé, grapefruit juice) - $15 Bottomless basic bloody mary (Smirnoff vodka, Zing Zang, olive, lime) - $18 1031 Lynch St., St. Louis, 314.261.4600, boocoostl.com

Café Piazza

Granite City Food & Brewery Sunday brunch, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $10 11411 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.432.3535, gcfb.com

Herbie’s Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Unlimited mimosas - $28 8100 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.769.9595, herbies.com

Highway 61 Roadhouse & Kitchen Sunday brunch, 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $16 Bottomless bloody marys - $16

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $12

34 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves, 314.968.0061, hwy61roadhouse.com

1900 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.343.0294, cafepiazza.com

The Midwestern

Das Bevo

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $20

Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $15 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.832.2251, dasbevo.com

Evangeline’s Bistro and Music House Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (Flavors include traditional orange, passionfruit, peach, pineapple,

August 2021

900 Spruce St., St. Louis, 314.696.2573, midwesternstl.com

Molly’s in Soulard Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (Brut and orange juice, two-hour time limit) - $20 816 Geyer Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6200, mollysinsoulard.com

Novellus

Sqwires Restaurant

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (Once purchased, you can change between flavor options: orange, pineapple, blackberry, strawberry, cranberry and an occasional weekend special.) - $20

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (maximum of two hours) - $21

201 N. Main St., St. Charles, 636.896.4800, thenovellus. square.site

Tin Roof

Oceano Bistro Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (orange juice and brut) - $20 Bottomless bloody marys (the traditional featuring Zing-Zang) - $20 Bottomless Best Bloody Marys (house-infused spicy vodka and pepper olive) -$25 44 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.9400, Facebook: Oceano Bistro

Polite Society Saturday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Sunday brunch, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. (bottomless ends at 1 p.m.)

Bottomless orange juice mimosas (1.5-hour time limit) $18 1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.325.2553, politesocietystl.com

Pieces Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (half brut and half orange juice) - $15 Bottomless loaded mimosas (¾ brut and ¼ orange juice) $20 1535 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.230.5184, stlpieces.com

1415 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.865.3522, sqwires.com

Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless masons of bloody marys or mimosas - $15 1000 Clark Ave., St. Louis, 314.240.5400, tinroofstlouis.com

The BBQ and Whiskey Saloon Saturday and Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $15 4900 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6666, bbqwhiskeysaloon-stl.com

The Rack House Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless bloody marys (your choice of vodka, olives, bourbon bacon, lime, option of salted rim) - $16.50 Bottomless Rack House Bloody Marys (house-infused pepper vodka, olives, lime, bourbon bacon, cayenne salted rim) - $16.50 Bottomless mimosas (Sparkling house wine and orange juice) $16.50 5065 State Highway N, Cottleville, 636.244.0574, therackhousekww.com

The Bellwether Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $18

Tompkins by the Rack House Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (sparkling wine and juice) - $19 Bottomless Tompkins Spicy Bloody Mary (House-infused roasted jalapeno vodka with bloody mary mix, salted rim, Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco) - $19 500 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.493.6332, tompkinsrh.com

Vin de Set Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas - $12 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.8989, vindeset.com

Wheelhouse Saturday and Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bottomless mimosas (classic with orange juice; Rosémosa with grapefruit, cranberry and rosé; or Wheelmosa with pineapple, Sprite, Aperol and rosé) - $20 1000 Spruce St., St. Louis, 314.833.3653, wheelhousestl.com

Yellowbelly Saturday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bottomless grapefruit-ginger shrubs - $18 Bottomless fresh orange mimosa - $18 Bottomless tepache (spiced pineapple) mimosa - $18 4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com

1419 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.380.3086, thebellweatherstl.com

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PARTNER CONTENT

The Entourage Effect B E N E F I T S O F C O M B I N I N G VA R I O U S C O M P O N E N T S O F T H E C A N N A B I S P L A N T

BY LAUR EN H EALEY

Many patients seek a high-THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) product, but medications also containing CBD (cannabidiol) should not be overlooked.

“A lot of people are turned away by the combination of the two because some people think only the THC will provide the relief they’re looking for, but they work better together than alone,” explained Addy Nemes, assistant general manager at the Ellisville location of Swade. “There are over 100 cannabinoids in the plant; those two are just the most well known. CBD has a lot of anti-inflammatory benefits whereas THC gives more of the pain relief, so they work best in conjunction.”

While Swade offers many types of edibles with varying ratios of CBD and THC, the Zoet line of edibles that offers a 1:1 ratio

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is often recommended, particularly for beginners. One package of the 1:1 contains 20 edibles with 5 milligrams of THC and 5 milligrams of CBD each. “That 1:1 can help counteract some of the psychoactive effects of the THC, and we like to start patients on that lower dosage that’s still very mood-boosting,” said Zach Gregory, general manager at Swade in Ellisville.

While THC and CBD have long been at the forefront of the cannabis industry, terpenes are gaining momentum as a way to tailor medication to your specific needs.

“The entourage effect is all the different components of the plant working in unison to give certain types of effects depending on what terpenes are present,” explained Melissa Khan, Swade director of marketing.

“Terpenes are the scent molecules, so by simply smelling the flower, whatever smells good to you will likely work well for you. If it smells bad to you, it most likely will not be as good.”

Cannabis consumers often search for sativa strains of flower for a more uplifting and energizing experience or for indica strains

for a more relaxing, subduing effect. It is certain terpenes within the plant, however, that drive the high more than whether the cannabis is sativa or indica. The percentage of THC is also not as important as once commonly thought.

“Patients will come in and think they want a sativa or indica plant, but what they really want is a certain terpene,” Nemes said.

“Limonene is citrusy and uplifting, and eucalyptol is minty and will give you energy.

The earthy or more diesel-scented ones like myrcene and linalool are more of the indicatype terpenes that are more sedative and relaxing – great for insomnia. We’ve helped countless patients get off Ambien.”

ILLUSTRATION COURTESY OF SWADE CANNABIS

With over 100 different cannabinoids present in marijuana, figuring out the best ways to mix and match them may seem a bit overwhelming. Luckily, the experts at Swade dispensaries are highly trained and happy to help guide your experience and determine the best route for you.

Let the experts at one of the five Swade dispensaries locations – Ellisville, St. Peters, Delmar Loop, the Grove and Cherokee Street – help you figure out your best method of medicating. Visit swadecannabis.com for more information.

This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients.

August 2021

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the

cuBan

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this page: cuban sandwich from havana's cuisine; opposite page: tamara landeiro, owner of havana's cuisine food truck

August 2021

connectiOn by iain shaw // photos by carmen troesser

August 2021

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pork typically requires six or seven hours of slow cooking with fresh garlic, spices and the juice from bitter oranges. “I usually cook it the night before we sell it on the truck because I want it to be fresh,” she said.

The menu at Havana’s Cuisine offers a window into the many disparate food traditions – African, Caribbean, Spanish – that have shaped the way Cubans eat today, both in Cuba and among the diaspora. Of the staples, none are more important than rice and beans. “We always cook rice and beans together,” Landeiro said. Black beans and rice is arroz moro (also known as Moros y Cristianos), while congri is red beans and rice. “The meat can change, but it’s always rice and beans,” Landeiro said.

Tamara Landeiro left Cuba for St. Louis so her daughter could develop her prodigious talent for chess.

When she found a city lacking in the flavors of her homeland, she decided to rectify that with Havana’s Cuisine, which started as a stall at Soulard Farmers Market and has since grown into a hit food truck.

When Tamara Landeiro, owner of the Havana’s Cuisine food truck, needs Cuban bread and can’t get it in St. Louis, she hits the road. For her Cuban sandwiches, Landeiro uses bread from Tampa’s acclaimed La Segunda Bakery, established in 1915 and still renowned in Florida and beyond as one of the best bakers of Cuban loaves. Normally, she’s able to get the venerated loaves here in town. But once, when the local delivery was delayed, she got in her car and drove the six hours round trip to Springfield, Mo. “It’s easy for me to buy another bread similar to the Cuban one, but I try to do what is right,” Landeiro explained.

With few other outlets for Cuban cuisine in St. Louis, Landeiro wants Havana’s Cuisine to make the best possible impression on the city’s diners. When she was developing her Cuban sandwich, she spent several days in Miami “trying many, many restaurants” to nail down how she wanted it to taste at Havana’s Cuisine.

It’s not about innovating so much as getting the details right. The foundation is the bread, spread with mustard and layered with ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese and pickles. “You can’t put the pickles and mustard together,” Landeiro laughed. The

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Bitter orange, or Seville orange, is another secret to the Cuban kitchen. Slightly smaller and noticeably more sour than regular oranges, the citrus is often used to flavor meats in Cuba. It’s also one of the central ingredients for making mojo, a sweet, tart and garlicky Cuban sauce. Like most Cuban chefs, Landeiro uses mojo for marinating meats, particularly roast pork; it can also be drizzled atop dishes after cooking.

Landeiro often takes orders for her homemade mojo from Cubans or people of Cuban heritage. “There are people who need to have it,” she said. “We do it because it’s important that they feel happy.”

Growing up, Landeiro remembers her grandma making arroz con pollo, a one-pot dish of chicken, rice, peas, bell peppers and garlic.

It’s the kind of dish Cuban families gather around the table to share on Sundays, and today it’s one of the truck’s best sellers. “Cubans cook the rice with the meat at the same time, so the rice takes the flavor of the chicken,” Landeiro said. The dish gets its bold, yellow color from the addition of bijol, a condiment made from annatto seeds that’s widely used in Cuba.

Landeiro is happy to explain her food to customers who are trying Cuban

cuisine for the first time. “Sometimes they have to taste,” she said. “But after they taste the ropa vieja, they want it.” Ropa vieja (meaning “old clothes,” a reference to the folk tale that gives the dish its origin story) is a very traditional Cuban dish: pressurecooked, shredded beef served in a tomato-based stew of garlic, pepper and onions and typically served with black beans and rice.

The food truck’s regular stops include 9 Mile Garden, Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and Scott Air Force Base. Landeiro said wherever the food truck pulls up, she finds that Cuban Americans and others with Cuban connections will travel from across the region to eat at Havana’s Cuisine. “They miss their town, they miss their country,” she said. That means the ropa vieja in particular can’t be allowed to run out. “Sometimes they’re driving 40 miles,” she explained.

If the Cuban sandwich is a signature of Cuban communities in Florida, Havana’s Cuisine’s Cuban fried rice is a legacy of the hundreds of thousands of Chinese people who arrived on the island in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Indeed, Landeiro’s great-grandfather was Chinese. He left for Cuba in the 1930s amid political turmoil at home, and eventually opened a Chinese restaurant, or a fonda (a name for a casual eatery, often used for Chinese restaurants in Cuba) in his new home.

“My grandma grew up cooking and living in the restaurant,” said Landeiro, who grew up hearing her grandmother’s stories and dreamed of having her own restaurant one day.

But with business strictly regulated by the communist government, that wasn’t going to happen in Cuba.

“At that time, people couldn’t have restaurants,” she said.

In St. Louis, Landeiro could at least partially realize her dream with Havana’s Cuisine, which launched as a stall in Soulard Farmers Market in 2019. With some help from the Hispanic Chamber of August 2021

opposite page: tamara landeiro, owner of havana's cuisine food truck; this page: rice and beans from havana's cuisine

family was able to apply for political asylum, and they were quickly granted entry. After clearing the border, the family headed more or less directly to watch Thalia compete in her first chess tournament as a U.S. resident.

As her family settled in St. Louis, Landeiro, a trained accountant like her great-grandfather, the restaurant owner, took a job at Associated Equipment Corporation, a locally owned company that produces automotive batteries and other industrial equipment; but her love of cooking eventually led her to Havana’s Cuisine. “I’m so grateful to everybody here in the city,” she said. “We’re so happy here in St. Louis, and we need to be grateful and give back everything that we’ve received.”

Commerce, she also started offering catering services. In March 2020, after closing the Soulard stall, she launched her food truck.

But Landeiro didn’t come to St. Louis in pursuit of her own ambitions. Her daughter Thalia’s remarkable chess talent was the catalyst for the family to pack up their life in Cuba in 2014 to head for one of the world’s chess capitals.

Thalia, then only 11 years old, was already winning prestigious international chess tournaments and receiving glowing profiles in Cuban media. With Thalia’s star clearly on August 2021

the rise, the family decided to move to the United States.

The move was a huge step into the unknown. “I was leaving everything that I had,” Landeiro said. She was giving up a secure job teaching accounting in a college and swapping home for life in a new country. And there would be no turning back. In spite of the Obama-era thaw in relations between the two countries, Landeiro knew that moving to the U.S. would preclude her and her family from returning to Cuba.

In fact, they had to stay tight-

lipped about their departure. “The government couldn’t know that we left the country,” Landeiro said.

For a Cuban family, getting to the United States wasn’t as simple as hopping on a flight to Miami or Chicago. Instead, Landeiro and her family flew to Mexico. From there, they traveled overland to the U.S. border, through regions of northern Mexico where cartels rule and violence is rife. It’s “a difficult route, where many things can happen,” as Landeiro put it. When they set out, they were oblivious to the risks, but fortunately the Landeiros arrived safely at the border. As Cubans, the

Landeiro hopes the food truck is simply part of the first chapter of the Havana’s Cuisine story. “My dream is a restaurant,” Landeiro said. “I don’t want something really big, I want a small place.” She talks about a place she can decorate in Cuban style, play Cuban music and offer more Cuban specialties.

For now, Landeiro is just enjoying operating Havana’s Cuisine under relatively normal circumstances for a change, as the stay-at-home orders put in place due to Covid-19 were issued just days after the truck launched in March last year. And after all the travails of relocating her family, her journey to the U.S. border, and the fear and anxiety related to the pandemic, she believes in the power of endurance.

“If you make it when things are bad, you’re going to make it when things are good.”

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SHORT LIST

A V O C A D O T O A S T The search for an excellent avocado toast may seem simple, but it takes a very delicate balance of flavors and textures to procure a great one. The avocado should have the perfect amount of salt and acid, the bread should be sturdy but soft, and the toppings should be robust while allowing the avocado to shine. Here are three local options up to par.

BY LAUREN HEALEY // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

August 2021

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HELLO JUICE & SMOOTHIE

Freshly baked sourdough from Knead Bakehouse is topped with avocado, crushed red pepper flakes, salt and pepper, hemp hearts and a smattering of fresh cherry tomatoes, as well as sunflower and pumpkin seeds that add plenty of crunch. This toast was the inspiration for the list (and many homemade versions).

1000 S. Newstead Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4135, hellojuiceandsmoothie.com

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UKRAFT CAFE & CATERING

This grab-and-go spot offers a variety of avocado toasts, but the caprese is top-notch. A perfectly chewy piece of multigrain bread serves as a hearty base for an avocado spread with everything bagel seasoning that’s topped with generous slices of local heirloom tomato, buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, an overmedium, free-range egg, and a drizzle of house-made balsamic reduction.

701 Market St., Suite P1, St. Louis, 314.376.4352; 8182 Maryland Ave., Suite 103, Clayton, 314.757.7075, ukrafteats.com

August 2021

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CINDER HOUSE

An extra-thick slice of house-made focaccia with crispy edges and a pillowy center supports an abundant layer of lightly mashed avocado mixed with house-made pico de gallo. Crunchy roasted pecans, candied in whipped eggs and sugar and then tossed in cinnamon and nutmeg, are sprinkled on top. A handful of bright, citrusy micro-cilantro finishes this delectable dish.

(Best enjoyed while lounging poolside at the Four Seasons hotel.)

999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cinderhousestl.com

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August 2021

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COOKBOOKS WE LOVE

BY MEERA NAGARAJAN, ADAM ROTHBARTH AND LIZ WOLFSON // PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Natural Wine for the People

This was one of my favorite quarantine reads. Is this a cookbook? Definitely not. But for people who love to cook and want to understand how to find great natural wine to go with it, it’s an important addition to your library. Alice Feiring’s concise volume is designed to help you understand everything about natural wine: what it is, how it’s made (and how it isn’t made), how to understand the terminology, and which producers you need to know. – A.R.

India Cookbook

Pushpesh Pant’s recipes in this encyclopedic tome are the closest thing to my mom’s home-cooked South Indian dishes. I made his cabbage curry for my mom and aunt, two of the best Indian cooks in the world, and they were impressed. It’s not flashy food but rather authentic dishes meant for home cooks. India is a huge country and Pant’s explanation of regional cooking helps you to understand the flavors of India based on geography. Plus, it comes in a 30 I SAUCE cuteMAGAZINE bag. – M.N. I saucemagazine.com

The Food of Sichuan

This colorful, in-depth Chinese cookbook is a real treasure to have at home. First, it’ll help you beef up your home pantry and condiment arsenal in a serious way; once you acquire central items like Sichuan peppercorns, black vinegar, chile bean paste and various dry spices, you’ll be ready to dive into Fuchsia Dunlop’s straightforward recipes. If you love tingly, sweat-inducing classic dishes like dandan noodles, mapo tofu and dry-fried chicken, this one’s for you. – A.R.

Dessert Person

Claire Saffitz’s detailed recipes range from approachable to advanced, but regardless of what you choose to make, she sets you up for success. With precise instructions, substitution options for when you can’t avoid it and photos for every recipe, Saffitz gently guides you to produce the best desserts you’ve ever August 2021 made. – M.N.

East

Meera Sodha’s East comprises vegetarian and vegan recipes that come together fast and include everything from Thai to Korean to Indian to Chinese dishes. Some recipes are classic, like the eggplant pollichattu, which has fiery and sour South Indian flavors, while others take inspiration from different cuisines to create fresh, unique outcomes. What they all have in common is they are low-effort, high-reward dishes that are vegetable focused and bring bright flavor. – M.N.

Salt Fat Acid Heat

Samin Nosrat’s Salt Fact Acid Heat is not so much a traditional cookbook as it is a textbook on how to be a great cook at home. There are technique-driven sections like six ways to cook vegetables or how to chop certain ingredients.

There are also deep dives into recipe components like the 40-page section on every kind of fat you can cook with.

Watching her companion series on Netflix of the same name will inspire you to page through and experiment with her thoughtfully written recipes; start with the cacio e pepe. – M.N.

A House with a Date Palm Will Never Starve

In this cosmopolitan cookbook, dishes as simple as roasted Brussels sprouts and as complex as fried quail with smoked date syrup sauce showcase the date’s usefulness in dishes of all kinds. I love this collection because it illustrates how a common ingredient can both inspire delicious cooking and provide a simple way to tell complex histories of August migration, 2021 conflict and community. – L.W.

Comida Mexicana

Everyone had their food obsessions during quarantine; mine was tacos. This book has plenty of taco recipes like the vegetarian tacos de canasta or the tacos al pastor, but I use it for the sides, like the elotes and frijoles refritos, and sauces like the salsa verde. I loved this book for helping me master all the things that support a taco dinner – that, and the fact that it’s designed beautifully with an eye-catching cover. – M.N.

The Rise

Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson’s latest book features boldly flavorful recipes by a multigenerational group of Black chefs. I really enjoy how each recipe interweaves contributors’ personal stories and Black culinary history with commentary on ingredients and other elements of each dish. This is a great collection to turn to for inspired weeknight meals and impressive dinner saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31 party dishes alike. – L.W.

BACKYA After the last year, nothing’s better than getting a bunch of friends together, firing up the grill and just hanging out. There’s something magical about barbecued food — the smokiness, the charred flavor, the crispy edges and crusts. These recipes celebrate all things summer and the beauty of what you can do with some charcoal (or wood, if that’s your preference). Plus, there’s the joy of stepping back from the stove and heading outdoors to enjoy those long summer nights with a cold cocktail in one hand and your favorite tongs in the other. So, fire up your grill and get that smoke wafting through the air.

B Y M A R I A N N E M O O R E // P H O T O S B Y C A R M E N T R O E S S E R

GRILLED PORK BURGERS WITH COUNTRY MUSTARD AND QUICK PICKLES P. 37

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ARD BBQ GRILLED OYSTERS with SPICED TEQUILA BUTTER P. 3 4

August 2021

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RECIPES

Peach-Bourbon Sweet Tea

There’s nothing better than sweet tea on a hot day. This one can be multiplied and made by the pitcher.

2 cocktails 2 oz. bourbon 1 Tbsp. peach preserves 12 oz. tea Juice of 1 lemon • In a small measuring cup, mix together the bourbon and peach preserves.

Fill 2 rocks glasses with ice and pour bourbon mixture over ice equally into each glass. In the same measuring cup, combine tea and lemon juice.

Pour into glasses. Serve immediately.

• Discard the flat top shell. Place a butter coin on each of the oysters, then cook another 1 to 2 minutes or until the oysters are bubbling.

• Remove oysters from the grill and spoon ¼ tsp. tequila over each oyster and sprinkle with chopped cilantro.

• Serve immediately with lime wedges and additional cilantro for garnish.

Grilled Salmon with Guava Barbecue Sauce and Mango Salsa

Grilling the fish adds a smokiness that pairs beautiful with the sweetness of the dark rum in the sauce. Note: you can also use a whole salmon side instead of individual fillets.

8 servings

Grilled Oysters with Spiced Tequila Butter

Oysters are one of my favorite things to grill. Heating them makes them oh so easy to open. Make sure you have a towel to hold them as you pop the top shell off.

Rock salt on the platter ensures that all of the butter and tequila stay in the shell.

4 to 6 servings 6 Tbsp. butter, room temperature 2-3 tsp. adobo sauce from a can of chipotles in adobo 2 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped, plus more for garnish 1 Tbsp. red onion, finely chopped 1 tsp. garlic, finely chopped 2 tsp. lime juice ¼ tsp. lime zest Pinch kosher salt Pinch ground black pepper 2 dozen oysters 3-4 tsp. tequila Lime wedges, for garnish • In a small mixing bowl, combine the butter, chipotles, cilantro, red onion, garlic, lime juice, lime zest, salt and pepper. Using a fork, mash until mixed well.

• Spoon the butter mixture onto a piece of plastic wrap. Roll the wrap into a log and then chill until ready to use.

• Preheat grill to approximately 450 degrees. Cut the butter into thin coins.

• Line a platter with rock salt.

• Place the oysters, flat side up, on the grill over high heat until they open, 1 to 2 minutes.

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Guava Barbecue Sauce: 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 yellow onions, chopped 8 oz. guava paste, cut into chunks ¼ cup light or dark brown sugar 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 whole star anise ½ tsp. ground allspice ¼ tsp. curry powder 2 Tbsp. lime juice 1 Tbsp. dark rum Mango Salsa: ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup lime juice (about 2 limes) 3 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 mangoes, peeled, fruit cut off seed, and diced 1 red bell pepper, halved, seeded and finely diced 1 yellow bell pepper, halved, seeded and finely diced 1 large red onion, halved and finely chopped 1 serrano chile, finely chopped (optional) ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained 8 salmon fillets (5 ounces each) Olive oil, for grilling For the Guava Barbecue Sauce: • Heat the vegetable oil in large skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Reduce

heat to medium and add the onion; cook, stirring often, until soft and a little brown around edges, about 5 to 7 minutes.

• Stir in the guava paste, brown sugar, tomato paste, vinegar, star anise, allspice and curry powder. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until guava paste has melted, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let sauce cool slightly.

• Discard star anise; transfer mixture to blender and blend to puree. With machine running, add the lime juice and rum. Transfer half of the mixture to a small bowl and set aside. Place the other half back in saucepan to keep warm.

For the Mango Salsa: • In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lime juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Add the mangoes, bell peppers, red onion, chile, and cilantro; toss to coat. Add the beans and toss gently to mix well.

For the Salmon: • Prepare a charcoal grill for mediumhigh, direct heat or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

• Drizzle the salmon fillets with olive oil and place on grill. Cook until the fish chars around edges, is firm and flakes easily with a fork, 8 to 12 minutes for rare (salmon will still be pink in the middle) or 12 to 15 minutes for well done (salmon will be cooked through). Brush with reserved barbecue sauce.

• Spread the salsa on a serving platter.

Arrange the salmon on top of the salsa and drizzle with warm sauce.

Grilled Pineapple Rum Shortcakes

I love to set up a shortcake station. A platter of split biscuits, a bowl of the grilled, spicy pineapple and freshly whipped rum cream is a great way to end the evening.

8 servings Shortcakes: 2 cups flour 4 Tbsp. sugar, divided 2½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. kosher salt 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces 1 cup cold buttermilk

2 Tbsp. heavy cream 2 Tbsp. sugar Pineapple Filling: 1 pineapple, sliced 1-inch thick Vegetable oil, for grilling 2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary 1 Tbsp. sugar Pinch cayenne Rum Cream: 1 cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar 2 Tbsp. rum For the Shortcakes: • Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

• In a food processor fitted with steel knife blade, combine the flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, the baking powder, baking soda and salt. Pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until fine meal forms. Transfer to a large bowl.

• Mix enough buttermilk into the flour mixture to bind dough. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead gently until combined, about 10 turns.

• Pat out dough to ¾-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut out rounds and place on an ungreased baking sheet.

• Gather scraps and pat out to ¾-inch thickness. Cut additional biscuits and place on baking sheet.

• Brush biscuits with heavy cream and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake until golden brown and firm to touch, about 18 minutes. Let cool and split.

For the Pineapple Filling: • Prepare a charcoal grill for mediumhigh, direct heat or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

• Toss the pineapple in oil to coat. Grill 2 to 3 minutes on each side.

• Remove from the grill and cut into dice; transfer to a bowl. Stir in the rosemary, sugar and cayenne. Set aside.

For the Rum Cream: • In a chilled bowl, use a hand mixer on high speed to whip the cream until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes.

• Add the powdered sugar and rum and whip to soft peaks.

• To serve: arrange split shortcakes on large platter. Spoon pineapple filling over shortcake and top with rum cream, as desired.

August 2021

GRILLED PINEAPPLE

RUM

SHORTCAKES P. 3 4

grilling tips Light a chimney starter

If you’re using a charcoal grill, using a chimney starter is the easiest and safest way to grill your food, as it doesn’t use lighter fluid, which can be dangerous and add an unwanted taste.

Simply fill the chimney with charcoal and light it over a few sheets of crumpled paper over the bottom grill grate. After 15 to 20 minutes, pour the coals over the grate, place another, oiled grate on top and you’re ready to get grilling.

Keep a lid on it

Keep the lid of your grill down as long as necessary. While it’s tempting to keep checking your food, opening the grill lets the heat escape, which could lead to dry meats and delayed cooking times.

Prep is key!

When you cook in your kitchen, you can start and stop at any point. But on the grill, once your coals get going, there’s no slowing them down. Ensure you can focus on the task at hand by prepping all your components before you light the coals.

Pump up the flavor

When it comes to grilling, there are several ways to add extra flavor to your food. The quickest way is with glazes, which are syrupy coatings often made with honey, maple syrup or molasses that are brushed on during the last few minutes of grilling.

Similarly, wet and dry rubs August 2021

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PEACHBOURBON SWEET TEA P. 3 4

GRILLED SALMON with

GUAVA

BARBECUE SAUCE

and MANGO SALSA P. 3 4

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Oven-Roasted Potato Salad

Oven roasting the potatoes adds a depth of flavor to this potato salad. If you don’t want to turn on the oven, you can also roast the potatoes on the grill.

Just pop the roasting pan on a hot grill and make sure to toss them frequently so they don’t stick.

8 servings 3 lbs. unpeeled baby potatoes, cut into quarters 1 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ²∕³ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup shallots, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, minced • Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

• In a medium roasting pan or a sheet pan, toss the potatoes with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Roast, tossing occasionally, until tender and browned, about 30 minutes. Let potatoes cool completely.

• Combine the mayonnaise, shallots, mustard, vinegar and garlic in a small bowl. Add to potatoes and toss to mix well. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Grilled Pork Burgers with Country Mustard and Quick Pickles

It wouldn’t be a barbecue without a burger. Coffee and brown sugar add a unique flavor to the pork. The pickles are so easy, you’ll want to double the recipe and keep a jar in your fridge.

8 servings Quick pickles: 2 cups granulated sugar 1 cup distilled white vinegar 4 Tbsp. fresh dill, roughly chopped 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. mustard seed 1 tsp. celery seed ½ tsp. whole peppercorns 5 medium cucumbers, sliced 1 cup sliced onion 1 cup sliced radishes Rub: 1 Tbsp. ground coffee 2 tsp. brown sugar 2 tsp. ground black pepper ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. dried oregano ½ tsp. kosher salt August 2021

Country Mustard: ½ cup mayonnaise ½ cup Dijon mustard ½ cup stone ground mustard 1 tsp. dried parsley flakes 1 tsp. garlic powder Burgers: 3 lbs. ground pork 8 potato buns or Hawaiian sweet bread buns, split in half Sliced fontina cheese Country mustard, homemade pickles (recipes follow), lettuce leaves and tomato slices, for serving For the Quick Pickles: • In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the celery seeds, sugar, vinegar, dill, salt, mustard seeds and peppercorns to a boil. Boil until sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly.

• Place the cucumbers, onion and radishes in large bowl. Pour vinegar mixture over vegetables. Let stand at least 30 minutes.

• Combine all spice rub ingredients in a small bowl and stir together. Set aside.

• Combine all country mustard in a small bowl and whisk together. Set aside.

• Prepare a charcoal grill for medium-high, direct heat or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

• Divide the ground pork into eight equal portions; shape into patties.

• Season both sides of patties with the spice rub.

• Place patties on grill. Grill until cooked through and no pink remains.

• Place buns cut side down on grill. Grill until toasted and marks appear.

• Spread mustard on buns and top with burger, cheese, tomato slice, homemade pickles and lettuce.

Buttermilk Coleslaw

Buttermilk adds a lovely tang to traditional coleslaw. It’s a great way to use up that buttermilk in your fridge. (Pro tip: If you don’t have buttermilk, make your own by adding 1 tablespoon lemon juice to 1 cup whole milk.)

8 servings 6 cups finely shredded green cabbage 6 cups finely shredded red cabbage 2 medium carrots, grated (about 1 cup) 1 red onion, thinly sliced (about 1 cup) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup buttermilk ½ cup mayonnaise 1½ Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. sugar

• In a large bowl, combine the green and red cabbage, carrot and onion and toss with a large pinch of kosher salt.

Set aside.

• Whisk together the buttermilk, mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar and sugar. Pour over cabbage mixture and season generously with black pepper.

Toss to combine and season with more salt and pepper as desired.

• Transfer to refrigerator and let rest 30 minutes or up to 3 days before serving.

require little preparation time. Apply these blends of herbs and spices (wet rubs incorporate moist ingredients, such as oil, mustard, and yogurt) up to a few hours before cooking to create a savory crust. To deeply infuse foods with more flavor — and tenderize them, too — immerse them in marinades that are made with acidic liquids such as lemon juice, vinegar, and wine. Just limit the time you marinate seafood to 15 -20 minutes, as the acid will “cook” the seafood and make it tough.

Grilled Panzanella

You can grill the bread as soon as you pour the charcoal out of the chimney into the grill. Don’t walk away, as the bread cooks fast. Mix everything together and let it sit while you finish the rest of the meal.

8 servings

Where there’s smoke …

Vinaigrette: 3 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 tsp. finely minced garlic ½ tsp. Dijon mustard ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Whether you grill over gas or charcoal, use hardwood logs, chunks, briquettes, or chips to impart a smoky flavor to foods. Different wood varieties add subtle nuances; try applewood for sweetness, mesquite for tang, or hickory for a bacon-like taste. Make sure to soak any wood chips for about an hour before you start to get the most smoke infusion.

3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 small French baguette, cut in half lengthwise 1 tsp. kosher salt 2 large, ripe heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 English cucumber, unpeeled, sliced ½-inch thick 1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes ½ red onion, thinly sliced 20 large basil leaves, coarsely chopped 3 Tbsp. capers, drained

Work your grill

• Whisk together the vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper, then stream in the olive oil until combined. Set aside.

• Prepare a charcoal grill for mediumhigh, direct heat or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

• Brush the baguette with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on grill and cook just until grill marks appear and the bread is toasted. Cut into 1-inch pieces and set aside.

• In a large bowl, mix the tomatoes, cucumber, bell peppers, red onion, basil and capers. Add the bread cubes and toss with the vinaigrette. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Serve, or allow the salad to sit 15 to 30 minutes for the flavors to blend.

Create heat zones like a pro.

On a kettle grill, bank coals in its center. Sear food in the middle, where heat is highest, then move it to the outer edges of the grill to perfectly cook without burning. On a gas grill, leave one burner on high, another on medium.

And the most important tip of all …

DO NOT TOUCH!

When checking for doneness, resist the urge to repeatedly poke, stab, or flip your food.

Instead, give food time to sear and develop a crust; turn only when grill marks form.

Marianne Moore is Director of Sales and Catering at 23 City Blocks Hospitality Group

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PARTNER CONTENT

Catering to you COMPILED BY JULIE COHEN

W

ith the Covid-19 vaccine available along with this beautiful summer weather, many of us are ready to entertain again. Yet, socializing after a year of solitude sounds pretty overwhelming. Why not save some of that mental and physical energy by letting the professionals help out in the kitchen?

These St. Louis area caterering companies and event spaces are working around the clock to ensure your next event keeps your guests full and happy while staying safe and sanitized.

PHOTO COURTESY OF PAPPY'S SMOKEHOUSE

PAPPY’S SMOKEHOUSE

August 2021

You love that award-winning Memphis-style barbecue at Pappy’s, so imagine how your guests will feel. The Pappy’s catering team is known for its professionalism, responsiveness and attention to detail. Perfect for any event you can imagine in their private banquet space, Pappy’s is one of St. Louis’s top venues or perfect for any location you choose. There are boxed lunches, full-service catering with or without appetizers and whole hog packages available. Ask about their new wedding packages! Email catering@pappyssmokehouse.com for more information.

3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.607.2446, pappyssmokehouse.com saucemagazine.com saucemagazine.comI SAUCE I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI 39 I3

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Caterers 23 CITY BLOCKS Instead of preparing food in a commissary kitchen and transporting it to the event space in a hot box, 23 City Blocks is leading the charge on the anti-hot box movement by creating pop-up kitchens at every event it caters. Available for celebrations of all shapes and sizes, from intimate in-home gatherings to parties of over 300, executive chef Nicholas Miller and his talented team know that every event is unique and will create a menu to fit your one-of-a-kind vision and taste preferences. While 23 City Blocks has two venues of its own – The Caramel Room at Bissinger’s and Lumen Private Event Space – it continues to be a preferred caterer at many premier St. Louis event locations.

1600 North Broadway, St. Louis, 314.615.2458, 23cityblocks.com

for almost 40 years. From weddings to corporate events to private parties both big and small, Ces & Judy's takes great pride in their vast menu selections and package deals so that clients can customize their events to fit both their budget and dreams. From creating signature cocktails to coming up with cuisine specific items to fit a theme, personalizing events is Ces & Judy's forte.

Ces & Judy’s Catering is on the preferred caterer list of countless venues in St. Louis.

Creole plus a lot of love). With customizable and creative menus, Clara B's can cater events from 20 to 200 people and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, including its beloved brunch menu.

Mobile food truck, Belleville, 724.252.7227, clarabs.com

CLEMENTINE'S NAUGHTY AND NICE CREAMERY There’s a reason Clementine’s is known for serving up the finest ice cream in St. Louis. Every lick of its decadent small-batch

BEAST CRAFT BBQ CO. Barbecue catering from BEAST Craft BBQ Co., BEAST Butcher & Block and Beast Southern Kitchen & BBQ is widely considered the best in the region, from the customer service to the final product.

It’s not just something they do – they’ve mastered it with nationally recognized, award-winning barbecue and a dedicated catering team. They specialize in carefully sourcing quality animals. From boxed lunches to weddings, three locations allow them to deliver anywhere on either side of the river. Email catering@beastcraftbbq. com for more information.

Multiple locations, 618.257.9000 x 2, beastcraftbbq.com, beastbbqstl.com, beastsouthern.com

CES & JUDY'S Ces & Judy’s Catering has been creating dazzling and delicious events and cuisine

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DALIE’S SMOKEHOUSE Dalie’s is more than just a smokehouse.

Think of the catering staff as your personal menu planner and extension of your event team. Known for its responsiveness, attention to detail and enthusiasm, Dalie’s takes the menu planning off your plate. They specialize in private parties, corporate events and meetings, weddings, rehearsal dinners and showers.

Choose from an array of smoked items, including beef pastrami, tri-tip sirloin and vegan jackfruit, along with sides like pit baked beans and mac and cheese. Email catering@pappyssmokehouse.com for more information.

2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, St. Louis, 314.243.8740, daliessmokehouse.com

DUKE’S BBQ SHACK Duke’s BBQ offers a unique variety of delicious foods and can customize your catering needs to accommodate any size, dietary restriction and craving. Located in downtown Wentzville, Duke’s offers pickup or corporate delivery to the surrounding area, including St. Charles and St. Louis counties. Upon request, staff members can tastefully serve your event. Duke’s takes a farm-to-table approach by buying local produce and meats and prepares everything daily to ensure freshness. Duke’s catering options range from boxed lunches and small gatherings to weddings and corporate events. Let Duke’s cater your next special event. Everyone loves Duke’s BBQ! 100 Ash St., Wentzville, 636.856.9227, dukesbbqshack.com

BOGART'S SMOKEHOUSE Bogart the menu for your next event! Bogart’s Smokehouse offers a selection of smoked meats, sides and desserts to please every crowd. Choices include favorites such as pulled pork, beef brisket, turkey and ribs; pit baked beans, deviled egg potato salad and coleslaw; and chocolate chip cookies, brownies and mini dessert trays. Ask about Bogart's boxed lunches, too. Email catering@bogartssmokehouse.com for more information.

1627 S. 9th Street, St. Louis, 314.603.2003, bogartssmokehouse.com

or ‘Clem’ the Ice Cream Truck.

Multiple locations, St. Louis City and County, 314.819.9960, clementinescream-ery.com/ice-creamcatering

Feeling overwhelmed as to where to even host your event? Ces & Judy's can help with that, too.

10440 German Blvd., St. Louis, 314.991.6700, cesandjudys.com

CLARA B'S KITCHEN TABLE Clara B's Kitchen Table is a contemporary homage to a time when scratch cooking and baking was all there was. This casual yet modern food truck is a slice of Southern hospitality featuring an eclectic mix of chefowner Jodie Ferguson's grandmother's Louisiana and Texas-inspired homemade cooking (think barbecue plus Tex-Mex plus

creations is handcrafted using only the finest quality, 100% all-natural ingredients — plus flavors from some of St. Louis’ most loved breweries, bakeries, distilleries and restaurants. While you can visit one of Clementine's five microcreameries, you can also bring over 40 delicious Naughty and Nice flavors to your next party because Clementine’s provides ice cream dessert catering for private events all over the St. Louis/Metro East metropolitan area.

Either pick up pints and toppings at one of its locations or have Clementine's come to you.

Private catering options include: your very own ice cream station, Spokes & Spoons Bike

GOURMET SOUL RESTAURANT AND CATERING With over six years of experience, Gourmet Soul Restaurant and Catering prioritizes the success of your event and has earned its Covid-19 serve-safe certification.

With home-style, house-made food and fully customizable menus, their goal is to combine creativity, passion and professionalism in everything they do. They specialize in making your vision a reality and concentrate on serving the customer’s needs, whatever they may be. Let Gourmet Soul host your next event.

1620 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.339.5658, gourmetsoul.com August 2021

August 2021

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GRACE MEAT + THREE Voted best fried chicken in Missouri by the Food Network, Grace Meat + Three has a counter service restaurant and catering company, both of which offer a unique blend of refined Southern American fare and down-home hospitality. Grace Meat + Three combines the best elements of traditional “meat and three” and family-style restaurants.

Catering is available for business lunches, private parties, weddings and more. For more information email catering@stlgrace.com.

4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, ordergracecatering.com

LONA’S LIL EATS Nominated by the James Beard Foundation for Best Chef three different years, Lona's Lil Eats is nowhere near little in flavor, taste or innovation. At Lona's Lil Eats, you'll find home-style Asian soul food with a flare that is light yet satisfying and will keep your body fueled all day long. For catering, Lona's features a "10 Meal Deal" menu where customers can pick one protein, one staple, one side or salad and two sauces. Each 10 Meal Deal feeds 10 people, and for every catering order over $90, guests will receive 5% back in gift certificates to Lona's For more information, email lonaslileats@gmail.com.

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2199 California Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.8938, lonaslileats.com

MICHELE C. CATERING & EVENTS Michele C. Catering & Events has been creating relationships and quality events in the St. Louis area for more than a decade.

Specializing in customized events — from intimate gatherings to grand affairs, Michele Coen has experience managing some of the largest food events in the region including staffing, choosing decor and creating an overall unique experience for her client and guests. Supporting local farmers, using organic and seasonal fruits and vegetables, and using only antibiotic and hormone-free proteins plus seafood that is never in threat of becoming endangered, Michele and her staff truly believe the world can be a better place one meal at a time.

3173 Morganford, St. Louis, 314.443.6956, mccateringandevents.com

SUPER SMOKERS BBQ Super Smokers has catered in St. Louis for over 24 years, serving events as large as 10,000 people and as far away as the White House. Choose from typical barbecue fare like brisket, pork, chicken, turkey and even whole hogs, as well as off-menu items like Cajun food, pasta con

broccoli, appetizers and desserts. Want something different? They are happy to customize the menu to suit your needs.

And with a food trailer, Super Smokers caters to every type of event, from backyard barbecues to white-table, black-tie affairs.

601 Stockell Drive, Eureka, 636.938.9742, supersmokers.com

THE PASTA HOUSE CO. A 50-year-old St. Louis tradition, The Pasta House Co. offers both full-service catering as well as several convenientlylocated restaurants throughout the St. Louis bi-state area. With a variety of cuisine choices that extend beyond its traditional restaurant offerings, The Pasta House Co. guarantees you will find an option for your taste and budget, whether you are planning a wedding, office party, seminar or special event. Catering amenities include pickup, delivery and full-service staffing. Planning for a smaller group? All Pasta House Co. restaurants offer a Parties to Go menu and Family Meal Deals to serve to friends and family. Call the catering department number below or email catering@thepastahouse. com for more information.

Multiple locations, 314.644.1400, pastahouse.com

Catering + Event Spaces BRETT HULL'S JUNCTION HOUSE With more than 9,400 square feet of space spread across multiple levels, including an open-aired rooftop bar and a large outdoor covered patio, Junction House offers all of the options you need to host a sophisticated yet casual dining and drinking experience.

Both the rooftop and patio feature fullservice bars, lounge areas, fire pits, water misters and outdoor heaters so that guests feel comfortable all year long. Junction House’s interior private room holds 28 guests while all three areas together (interior, patio, & rooftop) can accommodate 427 guests.

When attending a private event — whether it's a reception, corporate gathering, reunion, banquet or birthday party — guests will enjoy a wide variety of handcrafted food offerings from Junction House’s scratch kitchen, an extensive signature cocktail menu, and a large wine list. Private-event, wedding, and corporate catering also is available.

For more information, email contact@junction-house.com.

1311 Lodora Drive, Wentzville, 314.375.4855, junction-house.com August August 2021 2021

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PARTNER CONTENT

THE CHESHIRE

ORLANDO BANQUETS AND CATERING

Whether people were engaged, married or celebrated their anniversary there, The Cheshire has been a part of countless St. Louis love stories for nearly a century.

Home to three distinct and beautifully appointed dining and drinking venues — Fox & Hounds Tavern, Basso and Boundary — The Cheshire is capable of making any size party feel intimate and unique.

Boundary, with its private, lofted upstairs space and various dining areas within the restaurant, can accommodate events from 10 to 200 people while offering multiple styles of seating. In addition to its landmark event spaces, The Cheshire has its own catering staff, culinary team, boutique hotel accommodations, poolside terrace and wellness center. An event at The Cheshire can quickly turn into a vacation.

6300 Clayton Road, St. Louis, 314.647.7300, cheshirestl.com

This family-owned and operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 53 years. Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butlerpassed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations. Orlando’s caters to private homes

Wire Factory. Today, it is an artfully preserved Victorian building complete with both 19thcentury details and contemporary industrialchic finishings. Whether you're hosting your wedding ceremony and reception, shower, rehearsal dinner, post-wedding brunch or anything in between, this charming space is sure to make your private event memorable.

Accommodating up to 150 guests for a seated event or 190 for cocktail events, SqWires' interiors reflect the authentic Victorian designs of the building with its 18-

Event Spaces EDG-CLIF VINEYARD, WINERY, BREWERY Host your next event of 50 to 250 people at this third-generation, family-owned farm, which boasts an array of award-winning vinos along with a farmhouse brewery and plenty of craft beers. The spacious, openair pavilion overlooks acres upon acres of vineyards and gardens, and there are four renovated farmhouses (all over 100 years old and furnished with family antiques) on the property to house your guests.

Choose from one of the preferred caterers – Sugarfire Smoke House, Bow Tie Catering, 12 West Bar and Grill, and Black Bird Café – or bring in your own caterer. Check out the website for more information on hosting your next birthday party, wedding, corporate event or any other type of party you can devise.

10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com

CYRANO’S CAFÉ The private room at Cyrano’s is a beautiful, unique space for your next private event.

With its bright colors and eclectic interior design, it offers something you can’t find in traditional banquet rooms. Cyrano’s can accommodate up to 50 people for a sit-down dinner and up to 70 people for a cocktail-style event. Cyrano’s offers a flexible menu based on the full restaurant menu starting at only $14 for lunch and $18 for dinner. And don't forget the housemade, award-winning desserts. Located in beautiful Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally located and close to major highways. For more information, email events.cyranos@yahoo.com.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3434, cyranos.com

THE THAXTON & THAXTON SPEAKEASY

LES BOURGEOIS VINEYARDS Located conveniently off I-70 in the heart of Missouri, Les Bourgeois offers breathtaking event spaces that guests will be hard-pressed to forget. With bluff-top views of the Missouri River and picturesque rolling vineyards, Les Bourgeois features indoor and outdoor private event spaces for groups of 25 to 200. Along with the space, an event at Les Bourgeois features its award-winning wine, an in-house catering menu, and new lodging options so your guests can stay in one place to celebrate your next anniversary, birthday, wedding or retreat.

14020 W Hwy Bb, Rocheport, 800.690.1830, missouriwine.com

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venue boasts an attractive, updated decor, full audio-visual suite and private bathrooms. The space is ideal for gatherings of 20 to 50 guests and is perfect for happy hours, receptions, showers, birth-day parties, anniversaries, fundraisers and company meetings. The team at Pat’s works with event hosts to put together a flexible array of bar and on-site catering packages. To find more details, see pictures, request a quote, or set a time for a tour, visit patconnollytavern.com/the-1942-room.

Email info@patconnollytavern.com for more information.

6400 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.7287, patconnollytavern.com

and offices, and is also a preferred caterer at over 30 unique venues, now including the Soulard Franklin Room. They offer allinclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail.

2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com

foot ceilings, exposed brick walls, and original wood and iron details. Clients can customize their menus with plated, buffet and station options. With the same high-quality standards of the restaurant's menu and service, SqWires' catering team is committed to making your event uniquely yours.

1415 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.865.3522, sqwires.com

SQWIRES RESTAURANT & ANNEX

THE PAT CONNOLLY TAVERN

Situated in the city's historic Lafayette Square neighborhood, SqWires Restaurant & Annex was once home to the former Western

The 1942 Room is a private event space above the historic Pat Connolly's, centrally located in Dogtown by Forest Park. The

The Thaxton is a full-service, Art Deco venue (circa 1927) specializing in boutiquestyle weddings and events. The venue boasts multiple floors, artwork and architectural details at every turn, and loads of glamorous style. With room for 120 seated guests and up to 200 for cocktail style events, The Thaxton also provides inhouse, day-of coordination, bar services and staff. If you are looking for a nontraditional and unique experience, The Thaxton is the place for you. For more information email Info@thethaxton.com and to find a list of preferred caterers, visit thethaxton.com/ thaxton-resources-1.

1009 Olive St., St. Louis, thethaxton.com August August2021 2021

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

STEVE EWING FOUNDER OF STEVE’S HOT DOGS

Steve Ewing has done more in his five decades than many will do in a lifetime. Not only did he launch beloved restaurant Steve’s Hot Dogs, he’s also the frontman of The Urge, a nationally touring band that got its start in St. Louis in the late ’80s. He’s worked with investor and TV personality Marcus Lemonis to get meals to those in need. And he’s also placed in multiple bodybuilding competitions. Here, Ewing shares the history of his eponymous restaurant that is celebrated by the community and why fitness has always been one of his top priorities. – Lauren Healey

Steve’s Hot Dogs 3457 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5953, steveshotdogsstl.com

“Hot dogs were a simple f o o d t h a t I l o v e d while traveling

“In 2011, we opened on the H i l l , and business was going really well.

A few years later, in 2014, we opened a second location in Tower Grove East next to Tick Tock Tavern. Business really took off there, but things hit a dead spot on the Hill when the Kingshighway bridge came down, so we didn’t renew that lease.” “ T h e H i l l r e s t a u r a n t wa s there for almost 10 years,

and it became such a family-oriented thing.

We watched kids grow up there. But I was so busy working, working, working that I didn’t realize it had made that much of a connection to the community.” “ I n e a r ly 2 0 2 0 , I d e c i d e d I wa n t e d t o c l o s e the Tower

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Grove shop too. I was getting a little burned out and was running out of operating cash, so I thought I’d go back to playing music full time. I called Danni Eickenhorst, who has worked behind the scenes with us as a marketing consultant for about a decade, and asked if she’d write the press release, and she said, ‘I think maybe you should consider not closing.’”

“A f t e r w e m a d e t h e a n n o u n c e m e n t, I r e a l i z e d

the community really wanted us to stay open. For about a week straight, we had lines around the block, so I was able to pay off some bills, and we decided to reopen the business as a partnership [with Eickenhorst]. We still closed at the end of January [2020] and took a month to regroup before reopening in the beginning of March.”

and curbside – pretty much innovating on a daily basis.”

“A s s o o n a s t h e y a n n o u n c e d t h e r e wa s n o s c h o o l , there was this stark

realization that there’s a bunch of kids that might go hungry, so we started working with food pantries. When people realized we were doing that, they wanted to help, so people were donating, and it snowballed. It’s awesome to be in a position where you can actually help out.” “ T h at g o t t h e at t e n t i o n o f [investor] Marcus Lemonis.

He was doing a Twitter-based campaign to get food out – to the homeless and elderly was his main goal – but he wanted to do that through small businesses, so he picked a handful across the country.

He came in with $20,000 for us to make 2,000 meals.”

“ T h e n C o v i d h i t. There was so

much insecurity, and everything tanked for a minute. We realized we’d have to change gears and get ahead of online ordering

“ L a t e ly, w e ’ v e b e e n f o c u s i n g on our collaborations with

other local restaurants. We’ll use our hot

dogs and then something from their shop.

We did one with Crown Candy Kitchen where we added a huge pile of their bacon and made a BLT dog. We usually have a new collaboration every few weeks.” “ I l i v e r e a l ly c l o s e t o t h e o l d M a n g i a [Italiano] space,

so when it became available, we were interested, but it was about 5,000 square feet, which was too big. We circled back a couple months later and found out they were splitting the property in two, which was perfect.” “ I ’ v e b e e n c o m p e t i n g the past four years as an amateur natural bodybuilder. Fitness has always been my thing – staying in shape for performing.

My wife and I have run marathons and half-marathons before, and I gained the confidence to compete in bodybuilding from some friends who said I would be good at that. What it would take as far as training and eating didn’t seem like too far off from what I’ve done in the past just to stay in shape.”

August 2021

PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

with The Urge. It started as a hot dog cart down by the [Mississippi] River in 2009 to make a little extra cash and feed people after our concerts. The idea was to elevate the experience of eating a hot dog, and I realized I really enjoyed it. I decided I wanted a brick-and-mortar so I could do more with the menu and be more creative.”

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

VOLPI FOODS

BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH

Volpi Foods’ original Hill location; 5256 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.446.7950, volpifoods.com

and wine-infused salami to pepperoni and soppressata. Later this year, Volpi will introduce a beer-infused salami in partnership with Schlafly Beer.

Wanting to find meaningful work that would bring enjoyment to his neighborhood and beyond, Volpi looked to start his own business. “He started doing what he learned to do back in Italy,” explained Lorenza Pasetti, Volpi’s great-niece and the current owner of Volpi Foods. “In Italy, it was not a good economic situation, which is why so many immigrants came

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here looking for a better life.” Volpi began making sausages in a friend’s basement and selling them to Italian coal miners.

Three years later, he opened a storefront at the corner of Daggett Ave. and Edwards St., where Volpi Foods still resides today. He ran the business alone until the ’30s, when he sent for Pasetti’s father, Armando Pasetti, who came from Italy to St. Louis to be mentored in the family business. Pasetti herself would take over in 2002. “It was about 100 years into the business. It sounds kind of funny to say, doesn’t it?” she said. “I joined in the ’80s and learned it basically from the ground up. I think I had every position in the company, just about.” Since taking over, Pasetti has expanded the business greatly; now, Volpi has three buildings, with a fourth in production in Union. Volpi products

are sold around the country, in markets in California, the East Coast, Texas and states in between.

Since the beginning, Volpi’s recipe for success has been simple: Use highquality meats, practice impeccable technique and be an active part of the community. Volpi’s meat is sourced primarily within a 300-mile radius; most of the hams that are used for prosciutto come from farms just north of Kansas City, as does a lot of the meat for the salami. “Everything we do is made with fresh pork,” Pasetti pointed out.

“We’ve done things like introduce some heritage prosciutto, which is a heritage breed from producers in southern Missouri, aged for 18 months.” Some of that meat is processed even further, to become Volpi’s jamon serrano, a Spanish-style prosciutto; elsewhere, pork becomes everything from coppa

Volpi’s meat has also been used in dishes at AO&Co., Steve’s Hot Dogs, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and Pastaria Deli & Wine; in a way, having Volpi’s products in these beloved shops and gathering places is the natural evolution of John Volpi’s quest to bring great food to the people around him. And Pasetti aims to go even further. “Oh, there are so many great restaurants in St. Louis,” she declared.

“And we want to work with all of them.

Anything that helps the St. Louis community at large is usually a good thing, right?” Her great-uncle would certainly agree.

August 2021

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VOLPI

Sausage. Salami. Prosciutto.

These items you know and maybe love, but have you ever wondered when they started becoming popular in St. Louis?

Much of it started with John Volpi, an Italian immigrant who arrived in St. Louis from Milan in 1899. When he got here, he immediately found a community, both in friends he knew from back home and in other Italian expats living in South City, in the area that would later become known as the Hill.

Volpi’s products are available across town, including in its own storefront, where customers can also find freshly made sandwiches – one of the shop’s biggest draws. “We wanted a quality sandwich,” Pasetti said. “They’re not the largest sandwiches in the world, but we think they’re the best.” Her personal favorite is a prosciutto sandwich with warm brie; other available options include a spicy Italian, a poor boy and a bresaola with fontina.

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