August 2022

MENYA RUI

ELEVATING THE RAMEN CULTURE

tsukemen, a cold-rinsed thick noodle dish served with a separate bowl of warm dipping broth at menya rui, p. 21

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AUGUST 2022 • VOLUME 22, ISSUE 8

Mustard

Allyson Mace Ketchup, mustard, Meera Nagarajan sauerkraut and Liz Wolfson maybe some Lauren Healey jalapeños.

Iain Shaw Lauren Healey Meera Nagarajan With ketchup, Michelle Volansky mustard and relish Heather Hughes Huff Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicky Althoff, James Boeckmann, Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Kelli Jones, Angie Rosenberg EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Nicky Althoff, Jamie Korenblat, Joey Knese, Sophia Liu, Kennedy Morganfield, Alexander Olson, Emma Pawlitz

PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER & CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS How do you take your hot dog?

I don’t

Chicago style

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The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 August 2022

contents AU G U ST 2 02 2

editors' picks 7 EAT THIS Sunny’s Veggie at Adriana’s On the Hill

review 21 MENYA RUI by michael renner

by liz wolfson

features

8 DRINK THIS

26 GATEWAY TO INDIA

Happy Recovery at Source

Seven restaurants that showcase the delicious diversity of Indian cuisine

Juicery

by lauren healey 11 HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month

by meera nagarajan and iain shaw 14 IN THE KNOW

by meera nagarajan 31 HEAT WAVE

last bite 42 WHAT I DO Jordan Goodman of Good Ice

by liz wolfson

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

44 LANDMARK Acapulco Restaurant & Lounge

by iain shaw

COVER DETAILS Tsukemen is one of the lesser known noodle styles chef-owner Steven Pursley highlights at his new restaurant, Menya Rui. Learn more at p. 21.

46 STUFF TO DO by james boeckmann

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Late summer produce shines in these simple recipes from local chefs

by iain shaw

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

Dog On It

by michelle volansky 16 ELIXIR Wine Bars: The Next Generation

by nicky althoff

cocktail ice from good ice, p. 42

August 2022

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Eat This

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

August 2022

The Sunny’s Veggie at Adriana’s On the Hill explodes with freshness and flavor.

The sandwich blends all the elements of a well-balanced salad – soft, chunky artichoke hearts, sweet, fresh bell pepper and tomato slices, spicy onion and plenty of crisp iceberg lettuce – dialed up a notch by a dressing of pesto, oil and vinegar, and being served between two slices of fresh toasted garliccheese bread. Order a whole sandwich or do like the pros and get a Half and Half Special with the penne pasta.

Plunge the sandwich in the pasta’s basilrich sauce for a bite that’ll send your taste buds straight to flavor heaven.

Adriana’s On the Hill, 5101 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.3833, adrianasonthehill.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

DRINK THIS The super refreshing Happy Recovery from Source Juicery is one of our favorite sips this summer. With coldpressed pineapple, pear, yellow bell pepper and coconut water, it’s sweet sunshine in a glass with just a hint of earthy spice thanks to the addition of turmeric.

Don’t be thrown off by the bell pepper, whose vegetal note helps balance the fruits’ sweetness. Even the pepper hater in our midst found this juice highly quaffable.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

228 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.616.2054, sourcejuicery.com

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

hit list

3 new places to try this month

the cider shed and mr. e’s cider donut & custard shop are two new spots to visit at eckert's

August 2022

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from top: doughnut sundae at mr. e's cider donut & custard shop at eckert's; brisket nachos, pretzels and ciders at the cider shed at eckert's

ECKERT'S

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Two fresh offerings give both firsttime visitors and habitual fruitpickers ample reason to pay a visit to Eckert’s this summer. The Cider Shed showcases the fruits of the Belleville farm’s foray into hard cider, produced in partnership with Brick River Cider Co. Standouts include the apple Roadcider and the strawberry-infused Well Red. In addition to five Eckert’s ciders on draft, there are ciders from other family farms across the country.

The Cider Shed also offers a menu of appetizers and dishes, including cider-braised hot dogs, pretzels with hard cider fondue and brisket nachos, while the covered beer garden and stage can host live music shows for hundreds of guests.

A few yards away is Mr. E’s Cider Donut & Custard Shop, where Eckert’s cider doughnuts are now available year-round in addition to a variety of frozen custards and concretes. Kids of all ages will enjoy the doughnut sundae, which features Eckert’s frozen custard between a sliced doughnut.

951 S. Green Mount Road, Belleville, 618.310.2758, eckerts.com August 2022

CLEAVER & COCKTAIL The space at Cleaver & Cocktail, furnished with plush chairs, cool light fixtures and a sunken bar, is reason enough to visit. Choose from classic cocktails like a French 75 or Manhattan.

On the food side, the menu features seasonal produce like the heirloom tomatoes, a salad with juicy pieces of tomato over puréed avocado, topped with Parmesan cheese, radish and edamame. A drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette added sweetness and punch to this fresh dish. The crispy fried rock shrimp with pickled peppers and spicy remoulade was crunchy, briny, spicy and salty; it’s a dish that wants a cocktail. The whole menu comes across as thoughtful, which is no surprise considering chefowner Marc Del Pietro (who also owns The Block) has experience working for acclaimed chefs like Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud.

13360 Clayton Road, Suite 104, Town & Country, 314.530.9700, cleaverandcocktail.com

'SSIPPI While ‘Ssippi’s more playful decorative elements will make you smile, the white wall tiles, tables and bar top establish a neutral ambiance that sets the stage for the wine. Ten natural wines are available by the glass in a vibrant assortment of colors that may surprise you if you’re trying natural wine for the first time. Dive in with something like Slovenia’s cloudy and bubbly Kobal Bajta Muscat, or ask for a recommendation. If you feel like committing, there are bottled wines that you can take home or open at the bar for a corkage fee. You may want to have dinner before your visit, but don’t overlook ‘Ssippi’s tight selection of bar snacks; it would be a shame to miss out on the buttery Sicilian Castelvetrano olives and Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery sourdough with olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping.

2926 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.922.8518, ssippi.square.site saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

james myers, owner of dog on it

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IN THE KNOW DOG

ON

IT

When Sheryl Myers opened City Boutique at the intersection of Manchester Avenue and Tower Grove Avenue, she also inherited the quirky, little walk-up window space around the corner. She encouraged her son, James Myers, to open a takeout business, and hot dogs seemed like a winning concept.

PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

Dog On It’s menu features a number of signature dogs; we’re partial to the Ripplet Dog with barbecue sauce, nacho cheese, grilled onions and, of course, a generous topping of crushed Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets. But it’s the ever-changing roster of specials that keeps us coming back, like the Gateway Boer, a Black History Month collaboration with Popoma Foods using South African boerewors sausage, caramelized onions, bell peppers, tomatoes, mayo-mustard sauce and fresh thyme. James said it’s easy for him to run a service business in the Grove because people are so chill and happy, but we have a sneaky feeling it may be the hot dogs.

4300 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.896.9022, dogonitstl.square.site

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

‘SSIPPI

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W I N E

B A R S

TH E N EX T GEN ERATION

BY NICKY ALTHOFF // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON AND MICHELLE VOLANSKY While drinking culture in the 2010s was largely dominated by craft beer and its natural habitat, the micropub, a new wave of wine bars reflects the rise of a generation of wine enthusiasts looking to put their own stamp on St. Louis’ drinking landscape. From low-key spots to chill with an approachable glass to places specializing in the latest trends, here’s a selection of new wine bars to check out.

palate, including reds, whites, oranges and rosés that showcase the versatility of natural wines. “The cool thing about the wine space is that it’s always changing.

There’s always more to learn and try,” said Brogan Drissell, who co-owns the bar with girlfriend Emily Kostiuk. There are 12 wines you can try by the glass and nearly 40 bottles available for retail purchase alongside a smattering of draft beers, cocktails and small plates.

2926 Cherokee St., St. Louis, ssippi.xyz

‘SSIPPI

With its bright and airy space, glazed brick walls and a string-lit patio that feels like your best friend’s backyard, natural wine bar ‘Ssippi strikes the perfect balance between playful, homey and modern. One of the most recent entrants to the ever-growing St. Louis natural wine space, ‘Ssippi offers a variety of natural wines designed to appeal to any

‘SSIPPI

GRAFTED WINE BA R & LO U N G E

Housed in a historic mansion in Belleville built in the 1850s, Grafted Wine Bar & Lounge offers specialty wines from around the world. With 30 wines offered by the glass and around 100 bottles for purchase, there’s plenty of room for experimentation, and owner Magda

Gilpin is happy to serve as your trusted adviser. “If you say you like a pinot grigio, for instance, I’ll recommend an Encruzado from Portugal,” Gilpin said.

“I want to introduce people to a new favorite in a safe setting.” While sipping, stop by the wine bar’s Old World room, a nod to the mansion’s historic roots that’s furnished with antique pieces, a cozy fireplace and velvet furniture, before heading to the New World room, which incorporates bright pop art and more contemporary statement pieces.

310 E. Washington St., Belleville, grafted.wine

WINNIE’S WINE BAR

The latest offering from Hamilton Hospitality Group is slated to open later this summer in the former home of Charleville Brewing Co. An homage to co-owners Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s lifelong passion for wine and travel, the travel-themed bar boasts maps of wine regions, vintage propellers and suitcases, and will feature varietals from major wine regions around the world, as well as an assortment of beers.

Vinophiles can look forward to travelthemed wine flights and a specialty frozen rosé accompanied by small plates from Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse and Bourbon Bar. “We hope to fill a gap in wine bars that we’ve noticed in the neighborhood,” Paul Hamilton said.

“We’ve been talking about opening Winnie’s for years, and we’re excited to open.”

2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Winnie’s Wine Bar

GRAND SPIRITS B O T T L E CO. Michael Fricker’s new combination bar-and-retail shop specializes in August 2022

natural wines and assorted spirits.

Fricker aims to take the guesswork out of choosing a wine by providing pairing recommendations and allowing guests to sample anything from the shop’s floor-to-ceiling racks before purchasing. All the wines are organic, meaning they have no additives or preservatives, and Fricker sources them from producers that avoid herbicides and pesticides. “Not all natural wines are funky,” Fricker said. “We definitely have our fair share of those, but we have classic options as well – just without the pesticides, acids and sulphates that many wines have.” Sit down and enjoy a rotating selection of small plates like the recently featured macerated peaches with yogurt, pistachio and mint, or pop in and grab a bottle to enjoy at home.

3194 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.769.9933, grandspiritsco.com

WINE DOWN CAFE

Inspired by his experience working in kitchens in New York and L.A., owner Kevin Shed opened Wine Down Cafe in Carondelet to share his evergrowing wine expertise with the St. Louis community in an approachable setting. Picture your favorite sports bar, but instead of loud “rah-rahs,” Stevie Wonder plays lightly in the background and guests can chat comfortably at the bar. “It’s a very calm environment,” Shed said. “We treat everyone like family.” The curated wine list includes 12 to 14 options served by the glass and bottle, while the food menu features both small bites, like Philly cheesesteak egg rolls or a house charcuterie board, as well as salads, sandwiches and entrees like chicken con broccoli and a seared salmon bowl.

7529 Michigan Ave, St. Louis, 314.696.2205, winedowncafestl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

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DAV I D S AN D US K Y BEAST CRAFT BBQ CO AND BEAST BUTCHER & BLOCK Position: Owner /Pitmaster Married? Yes

friends and staff. I’m an overachieving black sheep that wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for them.

Kids? 3 kids Where are you originally from? Lebanon, IL Where did you go to school?

Southwestern Illinois College How did you get to where you are? The planets aligned, honestly. I owe my success to a mix of long hours, intense work and poor obsessive behavior management, but I wouldn’t have accomplished anything without the full dedication of my wife, family,

New things going on in your restaurant: Live-Fire Brunch is back every Sunday at BEAST Butcher & Block and BEAST Craft BBQ Co. just launched our first food truck!

• My wife is a better cook than me.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? I think I’m supposed to say my chef’s knife is my favorite piece of equipment, but I really love my direct smoker in The Skullery.

Nothing gives more flavor to a piece of meat than direct smoking.

Favorite menu item: Snoot Three cool facts about you: • I have been featured on Food Network’s Guy’s Grocery Games, BBQ Brawl season 2, and Beat Bobby Flay.

• I’m a wrestling nerd.

BEAST Craft BBQ Co. 20 S Belt W, Belleville, IL, beastcraftbbq.com BEAST Butcher & Block 4156 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, MO, beastbbqstl.com

BRONCO

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August 2022 2022 August

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review Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

menya rui

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY GREG R ANNELL S

Steven Rui Pursley wants to expand St. Louis’ ramen culture.

It’s why he wants to get you into his new, little noodle shop, Menya Rui: to slurp up one of his brothy shoyu ramen soups, yes, but then to come back to try the other two styles he offers: mazemen and tsukemen. That you may have never encountered these is exactly what Pursley sees as his competitive advantage.

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tsukemen, a cold-rinsed thick noodle dish served with a separate bowl of warm dipping broth at menya rui

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MENYA RUI p. 2 of 5

“Ramen culture is so vast, with so many nooks and crannies and subgenres and subsubgenres and regional differences that you could write a fat-ass book about it,” Pursley noted. “It’s easy to get into and, once you do, there are so many places to explore, and that’s the appeal of it.”

Remember the lovely Japanese movie, “Tampopo,” with Ken Watanabe’s character searching for the perfect bowl of ramen? Or “The Ramen Girl,” in which Brittany Murphy’s character apprentices at a Tokyo ramen shop under a tyrannical ramen master? Pursley understands the dedication depicted in those films after spending three years in Japan researching ramen and working in several noodle shops.

When he emerged from the ramen rabbit hole and moved back to St. Louis in 2017, he knew he had to share what he learned about ramen’s vast landscape with the city’s diners.

While in Japan, Pursley worked in four different shops, absorbing everything from making soup to the different types of tare (the broth’s base seasoning) and even a bit of noodle making. It’s why he and his younger sister, Erika Pursley, crank out mountains of thick and thin wheat dough noodles several times a week, using an old commercial noodle maker he imported from Japan. “There was a period where I wasn’t going to make my own noodles, but it’s definitely taken it to the next level,” Pursley said. “Once I bought my noodle machine and started tinkering with recipes, I’ve grown a lot in that area and think it’s definitely paid off.”

Then there is the broth. Of the four main ramen broth flavor profiles – shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce), miso (fermented soybeans) and tonkotsu (pork bones) – Pursley only offers shoyu. “Before I moved to Japan, I was definitely stuck on doing tonkotsu, just because I thought that if [the broth] is clear, then it’s not going be as tasty or hit as hard,” he explained. While working in one particular ramen shop, however, he gained a new appreciation for a light, clear broth made by simmering chicken and pork bones low and slow for hours.

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chicken shoyu ramen topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallion, nori and egg

chef and owner steven pursley

pursley making noodles

“Once I started eating [shoyu] all the time at staff meals, I began to understand the nuances and fell in love with it as opposed to the tonkotsu.”

Growing up, Pursley wasn’t eating ramen, but his Japanese mother, Misae Pursley, made stir-fries and other Japanese dishes often enough that “at least half the nights we were eating with chopsticks. It’s something I always enjoyed,” he said. Pursley credits his mom’s home cooking and having Japanese food throughout his life with keeping him connected to the culture. “It always kept me rooted,” he noted.

Pursley’s parents met while his father was stationed in Japan, and during his first 10 years he mostly lived in Okinawa, where his mom grew up, and from then on lived semi-permanently in Missouri. Even after settling in the States for good around 1999 in Union, Missouri, the family spent summers in Japan, where his mom insisted Pursley and his sisters attend Japanese school, “which we all hated at the time, but I’m thankful for it now,” he said.

Pursley was inspired to return to Japan in 2014. After graduating from the University of Missouri-St. Louis in August 2022

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MENYA RUI p. 4 of 5

2013, he had briefly considered pursuing law or engineering, but Japan kept calling.

“Half of my decision to move back was to learn ramen, [to] train and gain some skills to hopefully one day come back and open up a shop,” Pursley explained.

Identity, specifically his Japanese heritage, drove the other half: “There were definitely some things to figure out, and I wanted to explore that side of myself and take advantage of being half Japanese to live over there as an adult,” he said.

menya rui

karaage, japanese fried chicken served with a dollop of kewpie mayo and wedge of lemon

Where 3453 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.601.3524, menyarui. square.site

Don’t-Miss Dishes Pork shoyu, original tsukemen, mazemen

When Pursley moved back, he noticed most ramen shops in St. Louis, and the U.S. in general, served tonkotsu. “But to be competitive, I wanted to show people something new,” he said. If you are used to tonkotsu broth, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by shoyu’s subtler, but no less savory, umami flavor.

Menya Rui’s menu – which is as compact as the postage stamp-sized space – includes two appetizers that you’ll want to order on each visit: karaage, Japanese fried chicken nuggets served with lemon and Kewpie mayo, and the house cucumbers served one of two ways, either pickled or fresh and dressed with miso. Three categories of ramen round out the menu: noodle soups made for slurping; two brothless mazemen, eaten like pasta; and one tsukemen, for dipping. In the soup category, Pursley serves three versions, each with different flavor profiles: tantanmen, a Japanese version of Sichuan dan-dan noodles with ground pork and a brick-red hue from the aromatic chile oil and sesame paste; chicken shoyu, suffused with aromatic chicken oil and topped with a slice of braised pork shoulder; and pork shoyu, with gorgeous globules of glistening, porky schmaltz and more of that pork shoulder. All come with the same three toppings of menma (seasoned bamboo shoots), scallion and nori (dried seaweed); for an extra buck, you should add the traditional custardy soft-boiled egg for the full ramen soup experience.

Slurping noodles from a steaming bowl of broth is great, but it’s not the only way to enjoy ramen. While the pork shoyu is the biggest seller, Pursley really wants you to try his tsukemen and mazemen,

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brothless mazemen

pursley makes noodles from scratch

two increasingly popular and fun ways of eating noodles. The former involves dipping thick and chewy cold-rinsed noodles into a saltier, more potent broth.

You might think of it as deconstructed ramen, where the noodles and soup are served separately to keep the noodles cool and firm – perfect for the summer months. The mazemen, on the other hand, omits most of the broth and instead is eaten like pasta. The tantanmen uses the same ingredients as the soup version (chile oil, sesame paste, ground pork), but with just a splash of house shoyu, the flavor was much more pronounced.

For most of his childhood, Pursley said he was hesitant to talk about his

Japanese middle name, Rui, because it often caused more confusion than understanding. When naming the restaurant, Pursley knew he wanted to include it, just as he did with his popup series, Ramen x Rui, as a way to own it. He changed Ramen to Menya (“men” translated from Japanese is noodle, “ya” is shop). “By naming it Menya, I wanted to get away from just ramen, to push the culture and expand it a bit,” he said.

Pursley explained that the Japanese character for “Rui” means the “base” or “foundation” of something, which Pursley seems to have found with his little noodle house.

Vibe The size of a bento box with seating for 24 (and no outdoor seating), Menya Rui buzzes with conviviality and conversation.

On weekends, the wait line outside can be long but moves relatively quickly.

Dine-in only, no carryout or delivery.

Water, canned green tea and bottles of Excel orange soda are served. No BYOB.

Entrée Prices $13 to $15

When Thu. to Sun. – 5 to 10 p.m.

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G AT E WAY T O I N D I A B Y M E E R A N AG A R A J A N // P H O T O S B Y D AV I D K OVA L U K

tri color paneer tikka at khanna’s desi vibes

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When I go to Indian restaurants, I immediately assess them based on a few menu staples: naan that’s fluffy and seasoned; well-made lentil dishes; cooling raita, a yogurt sauce with a hint of tang; and the rice has to be perfect – hot, not too soft, and with a bit of spice to give it some aroma. In my mom’s Indian kitchen, she only cooks vegetarian dishes, so it’s what I like to order most at Indian restaurants. Here are seven St. Louis spots I keep returning to. While it’s not food made by mom, they each remind me in some way of home.

FLAVORS INDIAN CUISINE

Here, you cannot go wrong: The menu is big, and it’s all good. I love their paneer tikka masala, decadent from cubes of housemade cheese in a creamy sauce flecked with onions and peppers, as well as the mixed vegetables with potatoes, carrots and beans. Try both with a side order of raita, a sauce with shredded cucumber, carrot and salt that helps cool down spicy dishes. Tandoori chicken lovers will enjoy their version, expertly executed every time with juicy, tender chicken marinated in yogurt and warm spices like cumin and coriander. No home-cooked Indian meal is complete without dal; their dal makhani, with

black lentils, cream and tomatoes, and dal tadka, with yellow lentils, onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger, are both perfect with either naan or rice. Rice dishes like the vegetable biryani or the Indo-Chinese vegetable fried rice are great options too.

12350 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.858.1011, flavorsstl.com

TAJ PALACE

This Indian restaurant has been a longstanding stalwart in Chesterfield; it’s where my family goes for an Indian meal out and where so many of my friends have catered their special events.

Their naan is my favorite: It’s got those irresistible airy pockets – it’s good, and they know it. Maybe that’s why they have so many varieties: from plain to garlic to cheese to masala to onion kulcha – my mom’s favorite – which is stuffed with onions and herbs. Use the bread for dipping and scooping every dish, like the navratan korma that has a mix of vegetables like cauliflower, potatoes and carrots in a rich, thick tomato-onion sauce.

92 THF Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.728.1000, tajpalacestl.com

COPPER CHIMNEY

I’ve tried all my go-to staples here and thought they were all nicely done; however, their version of aloo gobi, a mix of cooked potatoes and cauliflower with turmeric, chiles, cumin and other spices, stands out in my memory in particular. In my experience, aloo gobi is usually not the

most exciting dish on a menu, but Copper Chimney’s tasted like it had been in a smoker for some time, adding complexity and a unique twist to the dish in a way I had never had before. It remains my favorite aloo gobi of all time.

200 Mid Rivers Center, St. Peters, 636.278.1833, copperchimneyindianfood.com

HOUSE OF INDIA

I love House of India’s crispy appetizers like the vegetable pakora with tamarind and mint chutneys – crunchy, spicy, sweet and herbaceous.

Their onion bhajia is essentially India’s answer to American onion

August 2022

clockwise from center: chicken biryani, dal makhani and bhendi masala at desi vibes

rings – and equally addictive. Their naan is pillowy, their condiments from the raita to their achaar (spicy, sour pickles) are great accompaniments to cool down or spice up any dish, respectively. Don’t miss their baingan bharta, eggplant that is roasted and smashed and sauteed with ginger, onions and tomatoes. I also rely on their chana masala, which has chickpeas in a tomato-based sauce flavored with butter, onions and spices.

8501 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.567.6850, hoistl.com

from left: prathamesh vinerkar, owner pravin khanna, vikram joglekar and naresh at khanna’s desi vibes

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truffle oil brings a Western twist to a traditional Indian dish. If you have never tried a dosa before, it’s definitely best eaten by hand.

Also not to be missed here are some of the Indo-Chinese inspired dishes like the cauliflower Manchurian bezule, where fried cauliflower is tossed in a sweet, sticky, spicy sauce. The portions at Turmeric are smaller and the prices are a little higher than some of the other restaurants on this list, but the menu is inventive and creative, making it truly unique to St. Louis.

6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9995, turmericstl.com

pav bhaji at flavors indian cuisine

the tomatoes – there’s nothing like rasam to clear your sinuses.

Also on their menu are dosa, which are made from a fermented rice and lentil batter pan-fried into a large, thin crepe; they’re usually stuffed with a cooked potato mixture and served with a tamarind-lentil stew called sambar.

At Turmeric, a version finished with

vegetable chettinad at rasoi

KHANNA’S DESI VIBES

When Khanna’s Desi Vibes opened, I was pleasantly surprised that my mom actually liked it – she is a picky eater with exacting standards. Our favorite dish we tried there, which we have since ordered on many other occasions, is their deeply colored dal makhani.

Made with black lentils and flavored with garlic and tomatoes, it’s super savory and rich from cream and butter.

It’s one of my favorite dishes anywhere at any restaurant. I like it with their naan or their lachaa paratha, a layered, almost laminated flatbread.

The restaurant has a number of other menu items that are lovely, like their

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RASOI

The vegetable chettinad is my family’s go-to dish here. Mixed vegetables and beans are cooked in a coconut sauce steeped in ingredients like garam masala, mustard seeds, curry leaves, garlic and onion. It’s aromatic and rich without being heavy and is the perfect partner to their plain rice, which is cooked to perfection every time.

25 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.6911, rasoi.com

palak paneer, which is made with a spinach-based stew, or their samosa chaat, a street snack with samosas served split open and topped with yogurt, mint and tamarind chutneys for a saucy appetizer.

13724 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 314.392.9348, desivibesstl.com

TURMERIC

When Turmeric first opened, I was happy to see some South Indian specialties on the menu like rasam, a dish many South Indians eat daily. The thakkali rasam broth is a tomato soup flavored with coconut, coriander and black pepper. Their version has some heat as well as sourness and tang from jasraj singh nagra, from left, has a pre-service meal with his parents, co-owners jaimini paul nagar and jaswinder singh nagar at flavors indian cuisine

August 2022

tandoori mixed platter at flavors indian cuisine August 2022

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August 2022

WATERMELON, RED ONION AND MINT SALAD

R E C I P E S C O M P I L E D BY I A I N S H A W // P H O TO S BY C A R M E N T R O E S S E R // W I N E R E C O M M E N D A T I O N S C O U R T E SY O F A L I S H A B L AC K W E L L- C A LV E R T, CERTIFIED SOMMELIER, CINDER HOUSE

August 2022

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When it’s too hot to cook, we crave recipes that rely on fresh summer produce to do all the work for us.

These refreshing dishes from local chefs prove you can forgo the heat and still eat well in just a few simple steps – especially if you add a wine that complements your seasonal ingredients.

TOMATO SANDWICH 32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

August 2022

Tomato Sandwich

Courtesy of Tempus’ Ben Grupe “Use the tomatoes that you enjoy the best, just make sure they are ripe and room temperature. I really love purple Cherokee, striped German or a super ripe beefsteak.” – Ben Grupe 1 SANDWICH 1 ripe tomato Sea salt, to taste (preferably Maldon) Cracked pepper, to taste (preferably Tellicherry) Mayonnaise, to taste (preferably Duke’s) 2 slices soft white sandwich bread (preferably Wonder Bread) • Slice the tomato about ¼-inch thick and place on a plate. Season with sea salt and cracked pepper.

• Spread the desired amount of mayonnaise on both pieces of bread, then arrange the tomato slices on one piece. Gently place the other piece of bread on top, mayonnaise sidedown, being careful not to smash the tomatoes.

“Though a nice bottle of rosé Champagne or cava will do the trick, I’m thinking a softer style of rosé bubbles would accompany this delicate sandwich best. Rosé prosecco, pétillant naturel and dry Lambrusco are perfect candidates for a prickly palate pop without overpowering the tomato flavor.” – ABC Try: Gagnon-Kennedy 2019 Valdiguié Revolver Pétillant Naturel Carafoli NV L’Onesta Lambrusco di Sorbara

Watermelon, Red Onion and Mint Salad Courtesy of Juniper’s Daniel Poss 4 SERVINGS 1 small watermelon (preferably bradford, crimson sweet or black diamond) Kosher salt, to taste 1 red onion, thinly sliced Zest of 1 lime 3 Tbsp. honey 2 Tbsp. Banyuls or sherry vinegar 1 bunch mint, plus more for garnish 1 bunch basil, plus more for garnish ¼ cup grapeseed oil August 2022

• Cut the watermelon into large cubes and place in a large bowl. Sprinkle lightly with salt, then add the red onion, lime zest, honey and vinegar.

• Destem and tear the mint into the bowl.

Gently stir ingredients to combine.

• Prepare an ice bath and boil a pot of water. Blanch the basil a few seconds in the boiling water, then move to the ice bath. Dry then destem the basil.

• In a blender, combine the basil leaves and grapeseed oil. Blend on high until the outside of the blender is slightly warm. Strain the basil oil through a fine mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter.

• Place the salad on a plate or in a bowl and finish with the basil oil.

Garnish with additional herbs and/or fresh summer greens.

“Riesling! Already showcasing hints of lime and honey, riesling is the perfect companion for this dish. However, any off-dry wine will be OK with these fresh summer ingredients.” – ABC

“I would pair this salad with a more savory style of wine – one that shows less focus on fruit and leans toward light herbal tones. Varieties like verdicchio, friulano and Grüner Veltliner will fare well with the zucchini, basil and Parmesan elements, but French sauvignon blanc or Italian pinot grigio would also taste delicious without a bitter clash on your palate.” – ABC

grenache or any other red ‘thin-skinned’ grape. Put the bottle in the fridge 30 minutes before serving for best results with this salad.” – ABC

Try: Nikolaihof 2020 Hefeabzug Grüner Veltliner Scarpetta 2020 Friulano Colli Orientali del Friuli

Summer Squash and Basil Pistou

Summer Panzanella Salad Courtesy of Brasserie by Niche’s Evy Swoboda 4 SERVINGS 3 cups cubed sourdough bread 1 zucchini, diced 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup cherry tomatoes ½ cup fresh basil ½ cup chicken broth 1 Tbsp. lemon juice Parmesan cheese, to taste • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the cubed sourdough in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 15 minutes.

• In a pan over high heat, brown the zucchini with the olive oil, salt and pepper, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook until they are blistered and release juice.

Remove from heat.

• In a large bowl, combine the vegetable mixture and sourdough croutons. Top with the basil, chicken broth, lemon juice, basil and Parmesan and gently stir to combine.

Courtesy of Take Root Hospitality’s Aaron Martinez 1½ QUART PISTOU

Summer Corn Salad

Courtesy of Nexus’ Ceaira “Chef Jack” Jackson This salad easily becomes a salsa – just add tortilla chips!

4 TO 5 SERVINGS

Try: German rieslings from Mosel and Rheingau Noboleis Vineyards 2019 Dry Vignoles

Try: Maison Noir 2019 O.P.P Pinot Noir Ameztoi 2020 Stimatum Getariako Txakolina

2 ears of corn 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for grilling 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. sugar Juice of 1 lime Salt and pepper, to taste 2 avocados, diced 1 red onion, diced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 red bell pepper, diced Chopped fresh parsley, to taste • Prepare a grill for high heat. Shuck the corn, brush lightly with olive oil and grill over high heat until charred on all sides, about 4 minutes. Let sit until cool enough to handle.

• Prepare the dressing by combining the apple cider vinegar, Dijon mustard, mayonnaise, sugar, lime juice, salt and pepper in a bowl. Whisk to combine, then slowly stream in 2 tablespoons olive oil while whisking constantly. Set aside.

• Cut the corn off the cob and add to a large bowl.

• Add the avocado, red onion, cherry tomatoes, red bell pepper and parsley to the bowl, then drizzle with the desired amount of dressing. Toss to combine.

“A light-bodied red wine will bring out the sweet char of the corn. I would serve a variety like gamay, pinot noir,

75 g. garlic cloves 720 g. summer squash or zucchini, medium diced Neutral oil, for cooking 300 g. picked basil 6 g. lemon zest 3 g. citric acid 2 g. ascorbic acid 525 g. olive oil Salt and lemon juice, to taste • Prepare an ice bath and boil a pot of water. Peel the garlic cloves and blanch in the boiling water for several seconds before transferring to the ice bath.

Repeat this process two more times.

• In a pan over medium heat, combine the summer squash and a splash of neutral oil. Cook until soft, about 10 minutes, then remove from heat and let cool completely.

• In a food processor, combine the squash, blanched garlic, basil, lemon zest, citric acid and ascorbic acid.

Slowly add the olive oil to mixture while blending to emulsify. Do not over blend.

• Add salt and lemon juice to taste.

• Serve as a spread for a tomato salad, a sauce for a fish, or toss pasta in it with some grated cheese.

“I’m looking for a wine that can support the fresh herbs of the pistou, the savory squash and garlic and the elevated acidity of the dish. Let’s travel to Provence, France! Provençal rosés are typically blends of southern French grape varieties that showcase garrigue or herbes de Provence, which will add to the herbal complexity of the fare.” – ABC Try: Château Pradeaux 2021 Bandol Rosé Peyrassol 2021 Les Commandeurs Côtes de Provence saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

SUMMER CORN SALAD

’TIS THE SEASON If you want to capitalize on the freshest seasonal produce, you need to know what’s currently in season in our part of the world. Dee Ryan, director of operations at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, gave us some pointers.

there’s lots of fun to be had mixing and matching different types of heirloom tomatoes, while eggplant is available in a rainbow of colors, “from white to the deepest purple.” Japanese and particularly fairytale eggplant are among Ryan’s favorite produce picks for this month.

As August marches on, you can expect Pattypan squash, cue ball zucchini and to see more lettuce, as well as melons possibly delicata squash will all make appearances in August. Ryan said 34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com – Crenshaw, canary, cantaloupe – and

a range of peppers. “I think melons are going to be a huge deal for this season because they’re going to be epically sweet,” Ryan said. Now is also the time to buy lemon cucumbers, in addition to regular and pickling cucumbers.

Look out for stone fruit like peaches, nectarines and plums. If you’re lucky, you might even spot some apricots. “We don’t really get a lot in the way of apricots in Missouri,” Ryan said. “Every now and

again you’ll see them, but it’s pretty darn rare.” And for a fruit that’s native to our region, Ryan gets excited for creamy paw-paws. She recommends buying this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it treat to store in the freezer. “Paw-paws are super special,” Ryan said. “You get them for a couple of weeks and that’s it. They’re a great, local native fruit.” As the month ends, Concord grapes are coming into season, and we might also see early yields of apples and pears. – Iain Shaw August 2022

Cucumber & Mango Salad

Courtesy of Bulrush’s Rob Connoley 2 SERVINGS 1 mango, chopped 1 cucumber, peeled and chopped 1 shallot, minced 2 Tbsp. fish sauce 2 Tbsp. lime juice 2 Tbsp. julienned mint 2 Tbsp. julienned basil 1 Tbsp. brown sugar • Combine all ingredients, tossing well. Chill at least 1 hour before serving.

“With the sweet and tangy elements of this salad, I would opt for a wine with a few grams of residual sugar (but not sweet) and fruity character for the best balance of flavors. Dry riesling, chenin blanc or a brut sparkling wine will let the savory and herbal elements of the salad shine while allowing the mango to pop through as a fresh note. These wines will let the salad ingredients be the star without distracting contrast.” – ABC Try: Champalou 2020 Vouvray Saint-Hilaire 2019 Blanquette di Limoux Brut

August 2022

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PARTNE R C ONTE NT

PHOTO COURTESY OF KATHERINE BISH FOR CYRANO'S

COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY

August 2022

Throwing a party or event and not sure where to start? Save some energy by letting the professionals help in the kitchen.

These St. Louis area catering companies and event spaces work around the clock to ensure your guests stay full and happy while staying safe and sanitized.

CYRANO’S CAFÉ The private room at Cyrano’s is a beautiful, unique space for your next private event. With its bright colors and eclectic interior design, it offers something you can’t find in traditional banquet rooms. Cyrano’s can accommodate up to 50 people for a sitdown dinner and up to 70 people for a cocktail-style event. Cyrano’s offers a

flexible menu based on the full restaurant menu starting at only $14 for lunch and $18 for dinner. And don't forget the housemade, award-winning desserts.

Located in beautiful Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally located and close to major highways. For more information, email events.cyranos@yahoo.com.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3434, cyranos.com

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DALIE’S SMOKEHOUSE Dalie’s is more than just a smokehouse.

Think of the catering staff as your personal menu planner and extension of your event team. Known for its responsiveness, attention to detail and enthusiasm, Dalie’s takes the menu planning off your plate. They specialize in private parties, corporate events and meetings, weddings, rehearsal dinners and showers. Choose from an array of smoked items, including beef pastrami, tri-tip sirloin and vegan jackfruit, and be sure to ask about their new charcuterie boards! Email catering@ daliessmokehouse.com for more information.

2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, St. Louis, 314.243.8740, daliessmokehouse.com

Herbie’s maintains a fine selection of spirits, wines and non-alcoholic beverages with a variety of packages to suit your needs. With event spaces in two of the city’s most dynamic areas - Clayton and the Central West End you’ll find yourself at home when hosting your event in one of their comfortable and elegant event sites.

Herbie’s, 8100 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.769.9595, herbies.com/private-events

made potato chips and Sourdough shortbread sugar cookies. Every purchase from their seasonal menu supports local farmers and artisans throughout Missouri + the Midwest.

Once your order is placed online, the catering concierge team will call to confirm and discuss contactless delivery and setup or pickup. Order online at kneadbakehouse.com/catering or email angie@kneadbakehouse.com for custom pastry, breakfast, lunch or

EDG-CLIF VINEYARD, WINERY, BREWERY Join Edg-Clif for special events for 50 to 250 people at this third-generation, family-owned farm, which boasts an array of award-winning vinos along with a farmhouse brewery and plenty of craft beers. The spacious, open-air pavilion overlooks acres upon acres of vineyards and gardens, and there are four renovated farmhouses (all over 100 years old and furnished with family antiques) on the property to house guests. Besides hosting farmto-table dinners, wine club parties and musical entertainment, this venue is picnic-friendly and encourages guests to bring in their own food or their own caterer. Check out the website for more information on The Home Grown Farm Tour and Field Dinner or hosting your next birthday party, wedding or family reunion in this idyllic country setting with superb wines.

10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com

HERBIE’S Whether you’re hosting a meeting for two or a rehearsal dinner for 100, the talented catering team at Herbie’s is ready to meet the needs of any group. From cuttingedge fine dining to classic American fare, Herbie’s offers their catering and event clients terrific flexibility with something delicious for every palate. In addition to their wide range of options for food,

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as well as only antibiotic- and hormone-free proteins, plus seafood that is never in threat of becoming endangered. Many vegan options are available. She also caters in Kranzberg Arts Foundation venues such as The Grandel Theater and The Dark Room.

314.443.6956, mccateringandevents.com

NAVIN’S BBQ Navin’s BBQ offers several catering packages – including meats or sandwiches, side dishes, sauces, plates and utensils – to cover all sizes of events. They are flexible and will work with you to provide the exact barbecue experience you’re looking for, whether you’re throwing a party or hosting a corporate event. In addition, they offer individual sandwich and chip boxes, which include one-meat sandwiches of brisket, pulled pork, smoked turkey or pulled chicken. Or choose any of the signature sandwiches such as the highly popular jerk sandwich. There are even some vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Visit navinsbbq.com/catering/ for details.

3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.449.1185, navinsbbq.com

ORLANDO BANQUETS AND CATERING

PHOTO COURTESY OF KNEAD BAKEHOUSE + PROVISIONS

KNEAD BAKEHOUSE + PROVISIONS KNEAD caters beautiful, individually packaged breakfast and lunch boxes or bundles for delivery or pickup for events of any size and within your budget. You'll find KNEAD's 10-yearold Sourdough throughout the menu!

Breakfast offerings include breakfast sandwiches, Sourdough pastries, parfaits, fruit salads, Blueprint coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Lunch offerings include signature and seasonal sandwiches + salads, locally

dinner catering menus.

3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

MICHELE C. CATERING & EVENTS Michele Coen has been creating quality events for more than a decade.

Specializing in customized events, from intimate gatherings to grand affairs, she has experience managing some of the largest food events in the region. She supports local farmers, using organic and seasonal fruits and vegetables,

This family-owned and -operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 54 years.

Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butler-passed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations.

Orlando’s caters to private homes and offices and is also a preferred caterer at over 40 unique venues, now including The Grand Ballroom downtown. They offer all-inclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail.

2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com August 2022

August 2022

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PAR TN ER C ON T E NT

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE PASTA HOUSE CO.

PAPPY’S SMOKEHOUSE

SUGAREE BAKING CO.

You love that award-winning Memphisstyle barbecue at Pappy’s, so imagine how your guests will feel. The Pappy’s catering team is known for its professionalism, responsiveness and attention to detail. Perfect for any event you can imagine in their private banquet space, one of St. Louis’s top venues or location of your choice. Choose from boxed lunches, full-service catering with or without appetizers and be sure to ask about their wedding packages, which include a variety of rental options. Email catering@pappyssmokehouse.com for more information.

3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.607.2446, pappyssmokehouse.com

Sugaree Baking Co. has been providing the St. Louis region with incredible desserts for every occasion since 1996. From beautifully decorated iced sugar cookies to other baked goods like muffins, focaccia, quiches, tarts, challah bread and more, everything is made from-scratch using the finest all-natural ingredients. Sugaree is happy to create whatever you need, including special menus for those with dietary restrictions such as glutenfree. Looking to switch up the wedding cake tradition? Let Sugaree create the pie wedding of your dreams with gorgeous lattice details and any flavors imaginable, including their specialty caramel-apple crumb pie.

1242 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.5496, sugareebakingco.com

STEVE'S HOT DOGS Founded by local rocker Steve Ewing, Steve's Hot Dogs is a mainstay caterer in St. Louis. Known for smoked and grilled all-beef hot dogs and burgers with locally baked Italian bread, they provide many options from a buildyour-own hot dog and burger bar to sack lunches. Homestyle sides include savory baked beans, potato salad, cookies, ice cream and more.

3145 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, steveshotdogsstl.com/catering

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THE FOUNTAIN ON LOCUST The Fountain on Locust offers inhouse event catering in the new Stardust Room - a private art decostyle speakeasy designed to host small events that was created by Joy Grndic, the original founder of The Fountain.

The events team can create custom menus, including cocktails and ice cream martinis exclusive to the Stardust

Room. The venue provides a private bartender for every event.

3037 Locust St., St. Louis, fountainonlocust.com/event-space

THE PASTA HOUSE CO. For almost 50 years, The Pasta House Co. has been a St. Louis tradition offering both full-service catering as well as several conveniently located restaurants throughout the St. Louis bi-state area. With a variety of cuisine choices that extend beyond its traditional restaurant offerings, The Pasta House Co. guarantees you will find an option for your taste and budget, whether you are planning a wedding, office party, seminar or special event. Catering amenities include pickup, delivery and full-service staffing.

Planning for a smaller group? All Pasta House Co. restaurants offer a Parties to Go menu and Family Meal Deals to serve to friends and family. Call the catering department number below or email catering@thepastahouse.com for more information.

Multiple locations, 314.644.1400, pastahouse.com

WINERY & VINEYARD VENUES OF THE HOFFMANN FAMILY OF COMPANIES

From Social Club events to wine dinners, weddings and reunions, the Winery & Vineyard Venues of the Hoffmann Family of Companies in Augusta present the perfect gathering places. Each venue has something unique to offer for hosts and their guests. Experience the historic elegance of Mount Pleasant Estates, rustic laid-back vibes at Balducci Vineyards, breathtaking views at Montelle Winery, and the neighborhood charm of Augusta Winery. Book an intimate wine dinner with your closest friends or ‘turn down for what!’ at a wedding reception with everyone you know. The premier indoor and outdoor venues in America’s first American Viticulture Area (AVA) offer accommodations from 10 to 200. Need a place to stay in Augusta Wine Country? The Augusta Guest Collection has just opened for reservations! Book a weekend at The Bungalow, or grab a few gal pals and enjoy the rustic charm of The Large Cabin. For more information on the event venues, activities, and accommodations visit the website or contact the events team at events@ visitaugustamo.com to book your next gathering in Augusta Wine Country. visitaugustamo.com August 2022

August 2022

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from left: kyle gillespie and jordan goodman of good ice

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August 2022

L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

JORDAN GOODMAN OWNER, GOOD ICE

Jordan Goodman is the owner of Good Ice, a premium ice company that supplies many of your favorite bars and restaurants around town (Olive + Oak, Lazy Tiger, The Lucky Accomplice, to name a few) as well as home cocktail enthusiasts. He and “right-hand guy” Kyle Gillespie are both longtime bar and restaurant professionals (Gillespie is bar manager for Salve Osteria and the Gin Room, while Goodman is beverage director for all Salt + Smoke locations), and their collective years of experience behind the bar give them unique insight into the creative possibilities of cocktail ice, as well as the practical needs of the businesses they supply. Here, Goodman explains the physics behind premium ice and some of the projects that helped launch Good Ice. – Liz Wolfson

“We make clear ice for the bar and restaurant community. We also do

events, a lot of weddings. ... But the main bulk of our business is supplying to bars and restaurants for specialty cocktails, whiskey drinks and stuff like that.”

“We work in bars, and we really like the custom side of things. So

we really enjoy doing those and getting creative and using our bar skills to create different cubes that can really wow people.” “[The business] kind of started with Lucky Accomplice the year they

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

opened, with a watermelon cube for Wil Brawley, when he was running that [bar].

He had a clarified watermelon punch, and we put a watermelon [syrup] cube on there and people just went crazy for it – it was all over social media, and people loved it.”

“And then we started getting into the customization for Lazy Tiger originally, doing stamps on [their ice

cubes]. … We can do logos that we freeze in there. We actually have an engraving machine that we’ll be going live with next

August 2022

month – we’ll be able to carve in logos or messages or whatever we want. That custom side is where we really have a lot of fun.”

“The way that the ice freezes, it’s called directional freezing. That’s

how you create these big blocks of perfectly clear cubes. So my machine has a plate on the bottom that freezes everything – it’s a big plate, and it freezes bottom up instead of freezing like a normal freezer that freezes outside in.”

“That’s why when you get a cube that you freeze in a tray … there’s always a cloudy bit in there. All

those impurities freeze on a nice, perfect crystal structure on the outside, but it’s pushing those impurities inside and then traps all those minerals and air bubbles and stuff inside. And that’s when you get a cloudy cube. You can purify that [water] and boil it and do all the things you want to it, but it’s never going to be clear like our cubes are.”

“Every bar and restaurant we go into, we go and measure the glassware [to] cut a custom size. A lot

of other places will just offer two sizes.

But we’ve been in the bar industry for a long time, and we realize that one size doesn’t fit all. … If you’re a small mom-andpop, or if you’re just opening up and you got all this glassware and then we come in and say, ‘Actually no, to use our ice you have to get a different size cube’ – we just custom fit everything.”

“And we’re going to start this month hopefully, or maybe next month … doing custom [ice] for people

to just come by and pick up if they want.

Say it was for the Fourth of July, we could do … a flag carving or something like that.”

“My favorite, and what’s really got a lot of momentum right now,

is the big, tall, kind of Collins, highballstyle cubes. Those are really beautiful because those glasses have a lot more viewing area … where you can see that cube, but when you pour a drink on top of it, it just completely disappears. … But, as you drink that cocktail down, it starts appearing … kind of out of nowhere, and it’s really beautiful, and people kind of go crazy for it when they get it at a bar.”

2241 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.504.5306, goodicestl.com

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

ACAPULCO RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

BY I A I N S H AW

In the beginning, many of Acapulco’s customers were still in the process of discovering Mexican food, but Mari Zegar believes that into the 1980s and 1990s the rise and proliferation of chain restaurants created a distorted perception of the cuisine among many Americans. “Once the chains started coming out, everything blanded up, so that’s what people were used to: bland Mexican food,” she said.

“Mexican food isn’t bland. Mexican food has a lot of flavor to it.”

Ernestina, a stickler for quality in the kitchen, resisted the temptation to dilute her recipes. Mari recalls her mother using a large spoon to measure out quantities – whether a quarter teaspoon or a tablespoon – purely by sight. “Everything was by memory, by heart, and made with love,” she said. Ernestina trusted her food, and that faith was borne out by her customers. “She refused to change any of her recipes because of what the people wanted,” Mari said. “We get customers who have been coming here since we opened in 1976. I would say they are addicted to her food. They try other restaurants, and they’re disappointed.”

The southwestern Mexican state of Oaxaca is home to one of Mexico’s proudest culinary cultures, whose moles, tlayudas and mezcal have been the subject of growing admiration in the U.S. over the past decade. However, when Ernestina Zegar opened a little Mexican restaurant in St. Ann in 1976, the circumstances were very different. Ernestina’s daughter, Mari Zegar, said her mother would have liked to have named the restaurant after her hometown,

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the city of Oaxaca. “But nobody could pronounce it, nobody could spell it, and nobody even knew where it was,” Mari said.

Instead, Ernestina named the restaurant Acapulco, which was then a tourism hotspot whose name evoked the midcentury glamour of famous visitors like Elizabeth Taylor and Frank Sinatra. Ernestina was pragmatic in her choice of name, but in the kitchen there would be no compromises.

The menu at Acapulco would include Mexican dishes Ernestina had grown up eating and learning to cook, including Oaxacan dishes like mole chicken, as well as tamales, chile rellenos, bistec a la Mexicana and menudo. Local diners were impressed, and Acapulco quickly established itself as a destination, joining places like Casa Gallardo, Ruiz and Hacienda among the few Mexican restaurants in the St. Louis area in the mid-1970s.

Sooner or later, any long-running restaurant has to navigate the transition that takes place when its founder leaves the stage.

Ernestina Zegar passed away in February 2022, at 77, just a few months after her son, Sergio, also passed. Ernestina was still working at the restaurant, still cooking, until her final days. “She would have kept going up until she was 90,” Mari said. “She would not stop.”

August 2022

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

from left: linda zegar and maribel ‘mari’ zegar, co-owners at Acapulco, hold a portrait of their late mother, ernestina zegar, who opened acapulco in 1976

Ernestina didn’t change the menu at Acapulco too much over the years, but she wasn’t afraid to take risks. Mari Zegar described her mother as pioneer: She introduced hot wings “before there was a Wingstop,” obtained a Sunday liquor license, making Acapulco one of the first restaurants in the area to have one, and booked mariachi bands from Chicago. “This place would be packed, standing room only,” Mari said. At the time, “the only place you could really see Mexican bands was in Fairmont City, so there was a need for it to come out here.”

dishes at acapulco

Mari and her sister, Linda, were wellplaced to take over the running of Acapulco, having worked at the restaurant in some capacity since they were in their early teens. “We were always a team as far as being front of house – everybody knows Linda, Mari and my mom,” Mari said. “So,

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the way we interacted with each other, the way we interacted with the customers – there’s an element missing, but it’s still the same.”

Mari said regulars might find it strange – as she does – not to see Ernestina tweaking

the light switches to get the lighting just right, playing a game on the bartop, or greeting female customers with a warm “What’s up girlfriend?” However, her customers find it comforting to know that Acapulco remains open and that they can continue to enjoy Ernestina’s food, almost

50 years after that young woman from Oaxaca threw her heart and soul into her dream of opening a restaurant.

10114 St Charles Rock Road, St. Ann, 314.428.5621, acapulcorestaurantstl.com

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

AUGUST

BY JAMES BOECKMANN

Tasting Thursdays at Cinder Bar

Aug. 4, 11, 18 & 25 – 6 to 9 p.m., Cinder House and Bar, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, fourseasons.com/stlouis This series will highlight a different, notable spirit brand every Thursday through the end of August. The brand will host a tasting area, and the bar will feature a special cocktail showcasing that week’s spirit du jour. Imbibe while grooving to tunes provided by DJ Mark Lewis and taking in stunning views of downtown. Free to attend; drinks available for purchase.

Grub & Groove

Aug. 13 – 2 to 10 p.m., Francis Park, Eichelberger Street and Donovan Avenue, St. Louis, grubandgroove.org Rock out at a full-day concert to support ongoing maintenance and improvement at Francis Park. Vendors like Steve’s Hot Dogs and Ices Plain & Fancy will serve food, with beverages from Rockwell Beer Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and 1220 Spirits. New to this year’s festival: a ticketed pig roast on Friday, Aug. 12. Admission is free with food and drinks available for purchase.

a diverse vendor lineup and non-culinary activities from yoga instruction and sound baths to stand-up comedy and live music. Vendors range from Flourish and Two Men and a Garden to Adina’s Vegan Cuisine and Wandering Yeti, and the full lineup can be found online. Admission is free with food and drinks available for purchase.

Midwest Wingfest

Aug. 12 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucemagazine.com

Join tens of thousands for the region’s most epic chicken wing festival, with proceeds supporting combat wounded and fallen soldiers. Food vendors compete for top honors in several categories, including Best Hot Wing and Best Gourmet Wing. Two nights of live music, an abundance of kid-friendly activities and a high-octane wing-eating competition make the festival unmissable. Admission is $5 for those 13 and older.

Like tough choices? Tower Grove Park offers dinner from about 20 of our favorite food trucks on multiple Fridays this summer and into the fall. Luckily you can’t go wrong with any of them, any Friday. Free admission.

Aug. 28 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., World’s Fair Pavilion at Forest Park, 1904 Concourse Drive, St. Louis, stlouisvegfest.org St. Louis’ favorite vegan event returns to Forest Park with

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Alton Food Truck Festival

Aug. 27 – 4 to 8 p.m., Liberty Bank Alton Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, altonriverfrontamphitheater.com A stacked food truck lineup including Pig on a Wing, Farmtruk and Cheese Shack parks at the Liberty Bank Alton Amphitheater for a tasty transition toward fall along the Mississippi River. The event will feature live music by Groove Thang. Free admission.

Aug. 27 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Steampunk Brew Works, 231 Lamp and Lantern Village, Chesterfield, Facebook: 13th annual St. Louis Garlic Fest

St. Louis VegFest

Food Truck Friday

Sept. 2 – 5 p.m. to midnight, Sept. 3 – noon to midnight, 275 St. Clair Square, Fairview Heights, midwestwingfest.com

St. Louis Garlic Fest

Celebrate garlic in all its forms – raw, pickled, roasted, even in ice cream – and pick up seeds in time for planting season in the fall. This year, the festival moves to Steampunk Brew Works, where there will surely be plenty to drink. With live music from Bob Camp and the Space Campers and a garlic eating contest, it’s a flavorful way to spend a Saturday. Admission is free with food and drinks available for purchase.

participating bars and restaurants celebrating A World Without Cancer Day. Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Ices Plain & Fancy and Lona’s Lil Eats are just a few of the businesses that will be donating a portion of proceeds to Pedal the Cause. Find a full list of participating venues online.

St. Louis World’s Fare: Heritage Festival & Games

Sept. 2 – 5 to 11 p.m., Sept. 3 & 4 – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Upper Muny Lot, 1 Theatre Drive, Forest Park, St. Louis, stlworldsfare.com

Pedal the Cause: A World Without Cancer Day

This three-day festival features games, performances and other attractions sure to appeal to St. Louisans of all ages. National touring acts like DJ Mix Master Mike and Fishbone? Check. Kids’ arts and crafts, games and more?

Check. Backyard games like badminton, cornhole and washers? Check. Food Truck Row with trucks like Bombay Food Junkies and Pie Oh My? Check. Free admission.

Aug. 5, participating bars and restaurants, pedalthecause.org/awwcd Support cancer research at Siteman Cancer Center and Siteman Kids by grabbing food and drink from

denotes a sauce-sponsored event August 2022

August 2022

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