December 2013

A dash of

bitters The cook’s secret weapon is stashed behind the bar

Wilted radicchio & bacon salad with Peychaud’s dressing p. 50

no - cook par t y apps · dinner at midnight · belgian holiday brews st. louis’ independent culinary authority

December 2013

FREE, december 2013

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decem b e r 2 013 • VOLUM E 13, Issue 12 PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

What's on your holiday wish list?

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS White Castle gift card

Events coordinator Listings manager ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Account Executives Advertising Accounts Coordinator INTERNS

Allyson Mace Ligaya Figueras Meera Nagarajan Julie Cohen Catherine Klene A bar cart! Fully Julie Cohen stocked, please.

Rosa Heyman Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth Jochum, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Katie O'Connor, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan Rebecca Ryan Rebecca Ryan Allyson Mace Kaylene Cohen, Rachel Gaertner, Jill George, Drew Owen, Bruce Prediger Jill George Darren Arabie, Emily Doig, Suzanne Matthews Dinner at Niche's chef's table

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whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

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St. Louis, MO 63103

editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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contents december 2013

15 A La Carte

Reviews 23 new and notable: Tree House

by Michael Renner

27 Nightlife: Melt

31

by Matt Berkley

28 Cook’s Books: Coffee-table books

23

by Catherine Klene

Home cooking 31 Vegetize it: Shepherd's pie Shearing the beef from shepherd's pie

40

by Kellie Hynes

34 One ingredient, 3 ways: Pistachios Nutty but nice

by Dee Ryan

37 By Popular Demand

features

cover details

Trattoria Marcella's meatballs and polenta

40 Midnight Meal

Last course 56 Stuff to do by byron Kerman

58 a chat with: Matt McGuire

Fast and easy late-night cooking

By Julie Cohen

47 All Gold Everything 14 gilded products you need right now

by Meera Nagarajan

by Ligaya Figueras

50 The Bitters Kitchen The cook's secret weapon is stashed CORRECTION In “Trendwatch” in the November 2013 issue, a shiro dashi dish at Cleveland-Heath was mistaken as being similar to an Ethiopian stew, also referred to as shiro.

Also, a cocktail at Taste was incorrectly printed as Bowls in a China Shop instead of Bols in a China Shop.

behind the bar

by Ligaya Figueras with anne marie lodholz

Photo by Carmen Troesser no-cook party apps p. 16 dinner at midnight p. 40

= recipe on this page

December 2013

Wilted radicchio & bacon salad with Peychaud’s dressing p. 50

belgian holiday brews p. 19

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SUBSCRIBE Which new restaurants and bars are worth the buzz? What dishes and drinks should be on your must-try list? What foodie festivals and events are happening around town? Sauce’s free, weekly culinary e-newsletter, Edible Weekend, provides you with everything needed to enjoy a food-filled weekend.

Sign up at saucemagazine.com/ediblesignup. php and fill your plate with the best the St. Louis food scene has to offer.

LISTEN Each month, Sauce restaurant critics Michael Renner and Matt Berkley share their dining experiences in New and Notable and Nightlife. Check out their reviews of Tree House (p. 23) and Melt (p. 27) in this month’s issue, then tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, Dec. 27 at noon and 10 p.m. to get their takes on the best of the 2013 restaurant and bar scene. Renner, Berkley and Sauce executive editor Ligaya Figueras will sound off on the top dishes and drinks from the 2013 dining calendar in this month’s segment of Sound Bites.

BUY The holiday shopping season is in full swing.

Are you stressed about what to get your mother-in-law who has everything? Or your boss (who really deserves a lump of coal)? ‘Tis the season for Sauce to come to your rescue! Go to saucemagazine.com/blog every day from now to Dec. 24 for our Sauce Holiday Countdown. You’ll find fabulous food- and drink-related gift ideas – and giveaways – that will bring holiday cheer to even the most challenging names on your shopping list.

facebook.com/saucemagazine | twitter.com/saucemag pinterest.com/saucemagazine | instagram.com/saucemag

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cookie photo by carmen troesser

PLAN Let Sauce help you plan your holiday open house menu, potluck offering or dinner feast. Go to saucemagazine.com/recipes for hundreds of dishes guaranteed to bring holiday cheer, then head over to saucemagazine.com/blog for more seasonal cooking ideas from columns like Baked, Meatless Mondays, Wheatless Wednesdays and Just Five.

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letter from the editor

L

ike every office staff, we at Sauce share a common goal, ours being obvious: to channel our love of food and drinks into a monthly culinary magazine. Yet, despite our clarity of mission, what a cast of quirky characters we are!

When Allyson, our publisher, isn’t driving a Triumph motorcycle, she’s hitching up her 1966 Airstream. Meera, our art director, has a shoe collection to rival that of Imelda Marcos. Michelle, our production designer and staff photographer, is more indie-inclined than 88.1 KDHX. By day, Rebecca Ryan coordinates Sauce events and manages our online restaurant guide; by night, she captivates clubgoers with her mesmerizing voice, as she has done for nearly two decades. Me? My colleagues know me as the one who’s technologically challenged and ill-informed about pop culture. No iPhone. No cable TV. Deprived? Don’t cry for me. I’m thoroughly entertained by books, cooking and soccer. And did I mention books?

Every home cook loves to flip through a collection of cookery tomes and recipe cards. My pathetic 20-year-old Ked’s recipe/shoe box (I can’t bear to swap it with a handcrafted wooden one.) holds memories galore of food projects that I perfected on the first try – or the fifth. Two spiral-bound cookbooks – More-with-Less and Extending the Table – have been kitchen staples since I left my parents’ home and struck out penniless on my own long ago. It’s been great fun to grow the collection over the years.

In her foreword to Franny’s: Simple Seasonal Italian, Alice Waters sums the book best when she writes, “This book captures the beating heart of what makes Franny’s so beautiful: its simplicity, its ability to make the ordinary surprising, and – above all – its celebration of honest everyday cooking.”

– Julie Cohen, Managing editor

You don’t need an iSi siphon or an immersion circulator to try Top Chef mad scientist Richard Blais’ creative twists on a classic like Bolognese or even your morning oatmeal – although you’ll add those kitchen toys to your wish list after reading his “2.0” recipe options. – Catherine Klene, Managing editor, digital

Nigellissima by Nigella Lawson is effortless Italian cooking with delicious results. – Meera Nagarajan, Art director

Books are a default gift purchase for many of us during the holiday season. There are umpteen new cookbooks and food memoirs to choose from this year, including the five noteworthy ones featured in this month’s Cook’s Books (p. 28). On my wish list are Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, Notes from the Larder and Vegetable Literacy. But, being that Sauce is a magazine created from the voices of many, it’s only fair that the rest of our editorial staff chime in with their 2013 picks worth buying – and reading, when cable TV doesn’t cut it.

Photo by michelle volansky

Happy holidays,

Ligaya Figueras Executive editor

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EAT THIS

Fries are a side, but the GREEN EGGS N HAM loaded fries at THE SHACK PUBGRUB are a perfect main. Salty, thickcut french fries are the foundation for crisped pork belly, garlicky creamed spinach and a sunny, self-saucing fried egg. It’s one of those plates that begets jealousy when it arrives at the table. Don’t wait for drunken late nights (though that’s a great photo by carmen troesser

idea); we do so like green eggs and ham that we advise eating this mess of goodness anytime.

The Shack PubGrub, 3818 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.7000, shackstl.com

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MAKE THIS no-cook party apps

Maximum deliciousness for minimal effort? We feel that. These nocook, one-bite appetizers are simple to assemble and will make your guests think you’re a professional host. They’ll also give you more time to finish the important things, like that pre-party glass (or three) of wine. – Meera Nagarajan

active time: 5 minutes

Place a thin round of locally made ham sausage from Todd Geisert Farms and Cabot horseradish cheddar cheese on a cracker.

Rest a little mound of blue cheese on a dried apricot. Drizzle with honey and chopped pistachios.

Inspired by Pastaria’s Orange Salad, this supremed orange segment is nestled in an endive leaf, topped with a sliver of red onion, a quarter of a picholine olive and a tarragon leaf. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a touch of sea salt.

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Todd Geisert Farms, ham sausage available at multiple locations, toadspigs.com December 2013

photo by elizabeth jochum

Top a miniature toast with a wedge of avocado, a pinch of sea salt, a glug of olive oil, a dot of Sriracha and a sprinkle of fresh cilantro.

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neat drinks Phase II, Eclipse Restaurant

Spheres, blocks, cubes, chips … whatever its form, ice plays a starring role in cocktail-making. But its absence can be equally important, for without the cold stuff’s flavor- and proof-diluting properties, a spirit’s full character truly shines. “Certain spirits taste better warm,” explained Robert Griffin, bar manager at The Royale. “Simpler is better. You’re showcasing a base spirit rather than building a mountain of flavors.” With their robust taste and complex character, room-temperature cocktails – multi-spirit mixes stirred without ice and served neat – make ideal selections for cold-weather sipping. Here, three of our favorites. – Katie O’Connor

Phase II, Eclipse Restaurant After a month in an oak cask seasoned with Sump’s Ethiopia Abaya coffee, bartender Seth Wahlman’s innovative creation offers a complex, bittersweet flavor thanks to its unique mix of house-made Laphroaig cherry cordial and bourbon. Topped off with a cherry-coffee foam, this slow-sipper is handcrafted from start to finish. 6177 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.736.2222, eclipsestlouis.com

No. 29, Little Country Gentleman Bar manager Jeffrey Moll Jr.’s concoction rounds out the vanilla and tobacco flavors of French rum with nutty and medicinal accents for a mellow richness that lingers on the palate. 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com

Fanciulli, The Royale Griffin uses Fernet-Branca and red vermouth to tame the burn and complement the toasty flavor of Bulleit rye whiskey in this edgy cousin to a Manhattan, one of a few ice-free offerings found on the bar’s Sunday night Cocktail Museum menu. 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM

A Seat at the Bar / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Cool temperatures and the holiday season lend themselves perfectly to my drinking habits since I love to cozy up next to cory king something malty, Certified Cicerone, head brewer at rich, heavy and Perennial Artisan Ales and founder of spiced. No other Side Project Brewing region of the world fills this craving better than Belgium, praised with having some of the best holiday beers. Reach for robust, yeast-forward Belgian beauties Trappistes Rochefort 10, Cuvée van de Keizer Blauw and St. Bernardus Christmas Ale on your next beer shopping trip.

December 2013

Enjoyed by many as far back as Colonial times, Milk Punch is a tasty combination of 2 oz. base spirit (Bourbon, brandy and rum are all fabulous!), 3 oz. milk and 1 oz. simple syrup combined with a drop or two of vanilla extract.

Shake vigorously with ice, ted and jamie kilgore strain into a tall glass and USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and then top with grated nutmeg. co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s Bourbon Milk Punch is our House go-to Christmas morning pick-me-up before heading out to celebrate with family.

It’s equally fitting for brunch, a holiday party or at home cuddling by a fire. Sounds too simple to be that wonderful, you say? Try it – you’ll be delighted by how deliciously celebratory it tastes.

When I think of holiday dinners and entertaining, pairing wine with food is really secondary to pairing wine with your guests.

One of the greatest crowd pleasers is Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling from the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley.

It’s not the sweeter style many glenn bardgett would expect from a riesling, Member of the Missouri Wine and but a nearly bone-dry white Grape Board and wine director at so flavorful that it can handle Annie Gunn’s anything your holiday table might offer. Made very much in the style of the dry rieslings of the Alsace region of eastern France, this wine is complex enough to match with a traditional turkey dinner, baked ham or roast beef. There are not many Napa whites that can give Grandma, Uncle Harry and Cousin Earl this much pleasure – and all for about $20. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

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hit list

4 new places to try this month

1

Cucina Pazzo 392 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8400, cucinapazzostl.com

From the team behind The Tavern Kitchen & Bar, The Corner Pub & Grill and The Shack PubGrub comes Cucina Pazzo. The former Duff’s space in the CWE has been transformed into a bright, airy gastropub where Italian offerings are cooked up with unexpected twists from its open kitchen. Dinner at Cucina Pazzo begins with its house bread, a warm loaf of rosemary focaccia served with an addictive balsamic-forward dipping sauce dubbed Sicilian Butter. The first serving is complimentary, but buck up for more; it’s worth it. From the large selection of antipasti, the house-made chicken salsiccia with Brussels sprouts leaves and blackberry agrodolce is a must-try, as is the escarole salad with a buttermilk Kalamata dressing. As a side, don’t miss the creamy polenta with an earthy, Italian sausage ragù.

For something hand-held, try the porchetta panini, a split focaccia bun holding a deliciously messy mix of salty porchetta, caramelized Brussels sprouts, pear mostarda, jalapeño honey mustard and a sunny egg.

beer image courtesy of heavy riff; croissants photo courtesy of pekara bread; cucina pazzo photo by michelle volansky; truck photo courtesy of vincent van doughnut

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Pekara Bread 730 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.526.9856, Facebook: Pekara Bread – Soulard Market

HEAVY RIFF BREWING CO. 6413 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, heavyriffbrewing.com

Pekara Bread, a Champaign, Ill.-based bakery, recently opened shop (booth) in the southeast corner of Soulard Farmers Market. Currently open only Fridays and Saturdays, this “clean label” bakery prides itself in only using straightforward, all-natural ingredients that are easily pronounced and fit tidily on a small label. Grab some flaky, buttery ham and cheese croissants or a thick round of herb and sea salt focaccia that’s filled with so many air pockets, you’ll forget it’s in your grocery bag. Actually, you’ll be hard pressed not to eat the whole thing while finishing the rest of your shopping, which is why we recommend hitting this stand on your way out.

Heavy Riff Brewing Co., the newest addition to the St. Louis craft beer scene, recently opened its doors in Dogtown.

Autographed guitars bookend the 15 taps behind the bar, which are a mix of Heavy Riff’s creations (the ones with tap handles shaped like guitar necks) along with a constantly changing selection of other local and national craft brews. A limited assortment of spirits and by-the-glass wines are also available. Sip Heavy Riff’s Velvet Underbrown, a strong American brown ale, or for a lighter brew, keep your eye out for the oft-recurring Super Session, a citrusy cross between an APA and a wheat beer. Don’t forget to bring your own snacks, and on Mondays, add your favorite record to the picnic basket; on vinyl night, Heavy Riff turns the power of the playlist over to the people.

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4

Vincent Van Doughnut 314.488.0589, vincentvandoughnut.com

Doughnut truck Vincent Van Doughnut is now parked at a city curb near you. We’ve filled up on sweet creations like French Toast, a square-shaped doughnut topped with maple-cinnamon icing, candied pecans, powdered sugar and a drizzle of maple syrup; RumChata, featuring a glaze made with the rum cream liqueur and cinnamon; lemon meringue; and even a savory round filled with Sriracha-lime cream cheese and topped with crispy pork rinds and cayenne pepper. On any given day, the truck will offer a selection of four from-scratch doughnuts. Flavors range from familiar classics to artsy pastries that would make Van Gogh proud, plus glazed and cinnamonsugar doughnut holes. Wash it all down with a hot cup of Kaldi’s drip coffee or a chilled can of Mr. Brown cappuccino iced coffee. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

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reviews

new and notable: Tree House p. 23 nightlife: MELT p. 27 cook’s books: COFFEE-TABLE BOOKS p. 28

New and Notable: Tree House

by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

Y

ears ago, over dinner with a few friends, a vegetarian acquaintance mentioned that she never ate anything with a face. Her hushed tone was so sanctimonious that I thought she was praying. “What about a head of lettuce?”

I chimed in. She didn’t even chuckle. I think she just blinked. Sure, my snarky remark was the proverbial poke in the eye – a silly attempt to inject a bit of juvenile humor into the conversation – but her comment epitomized the stereotypical smug, humorless non-meat eater. We moved on.

In retrospect, perhaps my dining companion was simply too hungry to be much fun. This was back in the day when the best meatless option you could “special order” Tree House at a restaurant was a plate of 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. spaghetti or rice with steamed Louis, 314.696.2100, veggies. Today, chefs prepare treehousestl.com vegetables with as much care and skill as they would a collop of cow – so much so that carnivores frequently forgo flesh. In short, it’s much easier to eat vegetarian and vegan these days; yet, there is always room for more restaurants solely dedicated to the cuisine.

The latest restaurant on the meat-free, green scene is Tree House, Bay Tran’s bright and inviting little bistro in the heart of the South Grand restaurant district. Unlike many vegetarian-vegan restaurants I’ve frequented in the past – with their incessant aroma of soy and patchouli, hodge-podge furniture and windows plastered with remnants of flyers from sundry out-of-date community events – Tree House has a flair that’s both contemporary and rustic: bright orange, stackable chairs; blown-glass light fixtures hanging from the yellow-gold, pressedtin ceiling; bamboo floors; and a bar and shelves fashioned from reclaimed wood.

Brussels sprouts salad December 2013

The menu is categorized into Snacks, Small Plates and Large Plates, with each dish labeled vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free. Tran, a vegetarian, brings her Vietnamese heritage to the table (Her family owns the restaurant Mekong down the street.) with meatless versions of saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

review new and notable: tree house Brown’s Obaachan’s Udon Noodle Soup, based on her grandmother’s recipe. A vegan dashi served as the base into which red miso, scallions, tofu, shiitake mushrooms, noodles and cabbage simmered. The noodles were more like fettuccine, not the ropy thickness I prefer, and the warming winter dish would have been even more warming if served hotter. Otherwise, it was a satisfying noodle bowl, especially with the optional hardboiled egg.

Some flavors were unfailingly lively, with surprising combinations of savory and sweet, like the Brussels sprouts salad with Thai basil, crisp cabbage, cilantro and mint tossed with a gently hot and slightly sweet chile vinaigrette. Among others, the red beets (cut like french fries) were roasted to bring out their natural sweetness before being fried and coated with salt and togarashi (Japanese chile powder). The result was a surprisingly fun and flavorsome appetizer.

Jambalaya with cornbread

popular dishes like the banh mi sandwich.

Here, wild mushroom pâté substituted for traditional liver spread and optional housemade seitan (for an extra $2) sat in for pork.

The baguette was fresh and crusty, the thin layer of pâté forest-y, the carrot and pickled daikon slaw cold and crunchy, and the

cilantro and sliced jalapeño bright and hot, but there wasn’t enough food in the dish to qualify it as a Large Plate. (Tree House has since moved the dish to its brunch menu.)

Other dishes reflect the ethnic backgrounds of the kitchen crew, like sous chef Tanya

A johnnycake packed even more flavor bombs: a fried, pita-sized masa and black bean bread sliced in half came nestled in a pool of thick and smoky malagueta pepper sauce, tamed by an outer ring of garlicparsley chimichurri. Pickled vegetables provided the proper acidic foil. But some fell short: Red beet hummus, rich with deep raspberry color and heavy on the garlic, was devoid of root vegetables’ earthy flavors.

Other offerings translated easily into the vegetarian vernacular. Jambalaya arrived steaming hot, made with smoked, spicy, wheat gluten-based sausage, brown rice, garlic, tomato and the holy trinity of all Cajun cookery: bell peppers, onion and

celery. On top, a small square of cornbread; you will want more. Southern grits, made with coconut milk and topped with tomato-garlic ragout and braised kale, elicited wonderment.

Some translations didn’t work. Roasted duck (Do I really need to use quotation marks at this point?) was really just seitan sliced into medallions to simulate duck breast.

The Asian glaze was overpowering and the texture, unappealing. You can’t make duck out of a sow’s ear, so why bother trying to imitate the meat-eating experience?

Among Tree House’s successes, there’s the drink menu. Creative cocktails run between $7 and $9, on par with St. Louis prices, and include the bright and citrusy Rhubarb Rickey (gin, lemon, grapefruit, ginger beer, rhubarb bitters, candied ginger) and a boozy Furlough Fashioned (bourbon, spice bitters, St. Germain, lemon zest). There’s a handful of local beers on tap and a short, but decent, wine list. Kudos to Tree House for serving red wine by the glass at the proper temperature.

Desserts are limited but should satisfy any after-dinner sweet tooth. Pumpkin bread pudding with bourbon cranberry sauce tasted like pumpkin pie; the Truffle Trio, consisting of coffee toffee, toasted coconut and toasted walnut chocolates, was decadent.

Tree House moved its closed day from Wednesday to Monday. This is too bad because many people are seeking vegetarian dining to support Meatless Monday, a movement that encourages skipping meat one day a week. But even with its hits and misses, Tree House would be a fine place to begin … any day. So, this vegan walks into a bar with a duck on his head … oh, never mind.

AT A GLANCE: TREE HOUSE Don’t Miss Dishes Jambalaya, fried beets, Brussels sprouts salad

Vibe With its contemporary blend of sleek and rustic, this ain’t your hippie father’s vegetarian restaurant.

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Entree Prices $10 to $13 for Large Plates

Where 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.696.2100, treehousestl.com

When Tue. to Sun. – 5 to 10 p.m.; Brunch: Sat. and Sun. – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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review

Nightlife: Melt

nightlife: melt

by Matt berkley • Photos by jonathan gayman

smoothie options, as well as ice creams, shakes and a full selection of coffees, espressos and teas.

What to Eat It seems like everything around town comes with an optional egg on top. Regardless, I was surprised when our server suggested Melt one to accompany the 2712 Cherokee St., Little Piggy, a thin St. Louis, house-made waffle 314.771.6358, smothered in a salty Facebook: Melt pile of barbecued pulled pork, light coleslaw and shredded cheddar. I opted for the standard Buttermilk Haus Batter, which proved not too sweet. On the sugary side, one would do well to embrace the Psycho Monkey waffle with its chocolate sauce, peanut butter and thick chunks of banana. This paired exceedingly well (as suggested) with a Wells & Young Banana Bread Beer. Still, the real standout (and naturally the most wasted-sounding item on a menu of upscale drunk food) was the Wake n’ Bake, which came with both bacon and sausage baked in the waffle and topped with eggs and a spatter of cheddar.

I

t’s nearly morning, and Melt’s bar is at capacity. After two sips of my first drink, I know the reason why.

Cocktails are a grand affair at Melt, the Cherokee Street newcomer that migrated north from the Patch neighborhood a few months back. The craft booze-comfort food concept is familiar enough, but the delivery at this place in both of these areas is more than noteworthy. And though Melt seems ideal for brunch, its midnight movie screenings, live bands and weekend hours (open until 3 a.m.), give the joint a serious after-hours draw.

What to Drink Nothing combats the rigors of cold and flu season like a stiff shot of whiskey. First-timers should opt for the Hayes Street, a classic rye whiskey Manhattan touched with the perfect amount of sweet vermouth. Meticulous pours and near obsessive fawning by the December 2013

bartenders in residence mean a bit of a wait for orders to be filled, but the product is worth the time. The cocktail menu features time-tested standards (including, arguably, one of the finest bloody marys in town) as well as odd specialty numbers.

Some of these are successful, such as the Eve’s Leaf pomegranate Mojito. Others less so: A lavender martini dubbed “Doll Parts” was about as detestable as a long night out with Courtney Love. During warm months, the cocktail selection is regularly infused with inventive and impressively potent specials like Beer Berry Lemonade and Hendrick’s The Cucumber.

Though unavailable on a return visit, Melt also occasionally features the Mia Wallace, a rich, bourbon-laden $5 shake. Beer choices run the gamut with everything from college binge drinker (cans of Natty Light) to grad school chic (750-milliliter bottles of Perennial Saison De Lis). The bar also offers a number of nonalcoholic

What to look for Expect a madcap crew of characters in a madcap environment.

The patrons (who are pretty tame and generally young) enjoy the comforts of a converted shoe store packed with intentionally mismatched, vintage seats and wacky quilted couches – to the sounds of music like Nina Simone and Pearl Jam. Dominating nearly the whole wall next to the bar is a chalkboard version of the menu – except the cocktails, which are listed instead on stained little handouts on each table. On another wall, next to nostalgically outdated (but functional) pinball machines, customers can scribble their own musings on a floor-to-ceiling blackboard. The bar itself, a straightforward wooden number, has mismatched coffee cups hanging from wall art on one side and a giant mobile of glass coffee pots precariously dangling above it.

Transient boozehounds, casual date-night couples and coffee-shop kids alike have plenty to take in at Melt, which is a solid addition to the continually flourishing scene on Cherokee.

order it: Melt

Opt for an egg to top the Little Piggy, a thin, housemade waffle smothered in a salty pile of barbecued pulled pork, light coleslaw and shredded cheddar.

Melt’s bloody mary is, arguably, one of the finest in town.

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review

Marque: A Culinary Adventure by Mark Best and Pasi Petanen

Cook’s books: coffee-table books

The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook by Michael Anthony

Eat with your eyes

I Love New York: Ingredients and Recipes by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara

Daniel: My French Cuisine by Daniel Boulud

Edible Selby by Todd Selby

Expert pick: The Roux Brothers' Books Saint Louis Club’s executive chef Pierre Chambrin’s illustrious near 50-year culinary career could fill its own book. He’s served as the White House executive chef during the presidencies of George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton, and he recently received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Académie Culinaire de France. What cookbooks does a Master Chef of France give as gifts? The Roux Brothers New Classic Cuisine and The Roux Brothers on Patisserie, both by Michel Roux and Albert Roux. “[The books] are nice looking. The recipes are very good, the style of cooking … is not something crazy,” Chambrin said, lauding the Roux brothers’ classic preparation of modern dishes.

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illustration by vidhya nagarajan; edible selby photo by michelle volansky

Let’s be honest: Recipes are only partly why we crave new cookbooks. Leafing through page after page of beautifully plated dishes stimulates the imagination and the appetite.

These gorgeous books are perfect gifts to grace the coffee table of your friend who can’t stop Instagramming everything he eats.

Join us every Tuesday at saucemagazine. com/blog as we share our thoughts about these lavishly produced books, and enter to win a copy to add to your own collection.

– Catherine Klene

December 2013

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vegetize it Shepherd's pie p. 31 one ingredient, 3 ways pistachios p. 34 by popular demand meatballs & polenta p. 37

Shearing the beef from shepherd's pie BY kellie hynes Photos by Carmen Troesser

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home cooking vegetize it: shepherd's pie page 2 of 2

I

f our attitudes about food are formed in childhood, then there was no greater influence on my pediatric palate than the lunch lady at W.J. Zahnow Elementary School. Neither my mother nor my grandmother were inspired cooks. But the lunch lady, with her flair for geometric-shaped entrees (Rectangle pizza! Triangle fish!), was my hero. So when her shepherd’s pie – an oval-shaped amalgam of watery ground beef, gray canned peas and gritty instant potatoes – failed to please, I swore off shepherd’s pie for life. If the lunch lady couldn’t make it, clearly no one could.

Fast forward a few decades, and I fall in love with Carnivore Bob, who likes shepherd’s pie so much he’ll order it even if there’s something “artisanal” or “heirloom” on the menu. But he looks good in a tux and is kind to small children, so I marry him anyway.

Another decade later, we (I) decide to fit more plant-based meals into our (his) diet. Hoping a veggie version of his favorite comfort food would appeal to us both, I dive in.

When vegetizing, I try to use ingredients that resemble those original to the dish.

If you squint hard enough, lentils are roughly the size and shape of ground beef. Trader Joe’s prepared lentils are my absolute favorite. Apparently they’re everyone else’s favorite too, because they were sold out in not one, but two, stores. A fellow shopper heard my sobs and assured me that it’s not hard to make lentils from scratch. She was right.

Unlike dried beans, which often require soaking overnight, dried lentils just simmer in broth for 30 minutes. Bonus: Since I cooked the lentils myself, I could substitute dark beer for some of the broth. This lent my lentils meaty umami.

Mashed potatoes top traditional shepherd’s pie, but I experimented with sweet potatoes instead. Sweet potatoes are packed with beta carotene and vitamin C, and they probably

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make you a better person just by being in your kitchen. More important, they are super-tasty on their own, without loads of butter and cream. Instead of boiling them, I roasted them in the oven, which deepened the flavor and made the house smell amazing.

The last challenge was to figure out the spices. My friend Jocelyn makes a fantastic vegan Moroccan stew with sweet potatoes, cumin and cinnamon. I copied her spices, but I used too much cinnamon, and the whole thing tasted like a dessert. I cut back on the cinnamon and added some cayenne for heat. Done.

Behold: A delicious, flavorful meal made from simple, healthy ingredients.

The great thing about this recipe is that you can experiment with your own flavors and ingredients. Try black beans instead of lentils or leeks instead of onions. Add sauteed mushrooms and kale, or keep it simple and use white potatoes. If cumin and cinnamon aren’t your favorites, try thyme and paprika. And instead of using one baking dish, divide everything into small, single-serving ramekins. They’re fun, and vastly improve the chances of your kiddos eating it. Little circle pies – my lunch lady would be proud.

Shepherd’s Pie with Lentils and Roasted Sweet Potatoes For individual pies, divide the ingredients among several small ramekins and bake until the potatoes are golden brown.

4 to 6 servings 2 lbs. sweet potatoes, washed 1 cup whole small green lentils, rinsed 2¼ cups vegetable broth ¼ cup Guinness Extra Stout or Schlafly Irish-style Extra Stout (The latter will be available next month.)

1 Tbsp. canola oil 3 celery stalks, chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 tsp. minced garlic ½ tsp. ground cumin

¼ tsp. cinnamon ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, undrained ½ tsp. salt, divided Freshly cracked white pepper 2 Tbsp. butter, softened ½ cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Prick each sweet potato several times with a fork and place them on a baking sheet. Roast 45 minutes, or until very soft. Remove from the oven and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

• Meanwhile, add the lentils, broth and beer to a small pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until the liquid is absorbed (adding more broth, if necessary) and lentils are soft, about 30 minutes. Remove the pot from heat.

• In a large skillet, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Add the celery, carrots and onion. Saute until the carrots and celery are soft and begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, cumin, cinnamon and cayenne. Saute 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the diced tomatoes and their liquid, ¼ teaspoon salt, a pinch of white pepper and the cooked lentils.

Simmer 5 minutes.

• Remove and discard the skins from the roasted sweet potatoes. In a bowl, mash the sweet potatoes with a fork. Add ¼ teaspoon salt, a pinch of white pepper, the butter and cheese, stirring until blended.

• Prepare a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. Transfer the lentil mixture to the dish, spreading evenly.

Spread the sweet potatoes evenly over the lentil mixture. Bake uncovered in a 350-degree oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the top is golden.

Let rest 10 minutes before serving.

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December 2013

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home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: pistachios

Nutty but nice

By Dee Ryan | Photos by laura miller

P

istachios used to be one of those foods – like Cheetos or beets – that left a colorful mark.

Remember snacking on a bag of magenta nuts and then your fingertips looking like you’d soaked them in coloring agent red No. 40? Nowadays, harvesting methods are less damaging to the shells, so it’s no longer necessary to use the bright dye to mask imperfections.

Not only is pistachio your grandpa’s favorite ice cream flavor, but it’s also the nut du jour. A slightly sweet flavor and tender texture make pistachios a wonderful addition to foods both sweet and savory. Get cracking!

Pistachio-crusted Salmon 2 Servings 1 cup hulled salted pistachios 1 cup arugula 1 tsp. lemon zest, plus more for garnish, if desired ¼ cup olive oil 2 6-oz. salmon fillets, 1-inch thick • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

• Place the pistachios, arugula and lemon zest in a food processor. With the food processor running, slowly add the olive oil.

Process until a thick paste forms.

• Place the salmon fillets on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Press an equal amount of pistachio paste on top of each fillet.

• Bake 20 minutes, until the salmon is cooked through. Garnish with lemon zest if desired.

Pistachio and Fig Granola 7 cups 3 cups rolled oats 1½ cups hulled salted pistachios, coarsely chopped 1/3 cup brown sugar ¼ cup agave or maple syrup 1 tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. cinnamon ¼ tsp. ground cloves ¾ cup coconut oil (melted) or olive oil 1½ cups dried figs, chopped ½ cup dried cranberries or other chopped dried fruit 1 tsp. orange zest

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• Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

• In a large bowl, combine the oats, pistachios, brown sugar, agave, vanilla, cinnamon and cloves. Pour the oil over the mixture and stir to coat.

• Using a spatula, evenly spread the mixture on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 35 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to ensure even browning.

• Remove from the oven, pour into a bowl and stir in the dried fruit and orange zest.

• Store at room temperature in an airtight container up to 1 week.

Pear and Pistachio Crisp 6 to 8 servings 4 to 5 pears (Bosc or Anjou), peeled, cored and chopped (about 4 cups) 1¼ cups hulled salted pistachios, chopped, divided ¾ cup, plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, divided ½ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground cardamom ½ cup brown sugar 2 Tbsp. maple syrup ½ Tbsp. lemon juice 1/3 cup sugar ¼ tsp. salt 6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a large bowl, combine the pears, 1 cup pistachios, 2 tablespoons flour, cinnamon, cardamom, brown sugar, maple syrup and lemon juice. Stir well.

• Pour the pear mixture into a greased 9-inch square baking pan.

• In a separate bowl, mix together the remaining ¾ cup flour, sugar and salt.

Add the butter. Stir until the mixture forms pea-sized lumps. Sprinkle over the pear mixture, then sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup pistachios.

• Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool 15 minutes before serving. If desired, serve with vanilla ice cream.

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home cooking

By Popular Demand: meatballs & polenta

My wife and I love Trattoria Marcella, but unfortunately, they took our favorite dish off the menu. They used to make a superb meatballs and polenta dish that was the best I’ve ever had. I would love to know how to make it at home, especially if they aren’t going to be bringing the dish back anytime soon.

– Zach Schaefer

photo by elizabeth jochum

Recipe on page 39

Trattoria Marcella, 3600 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.352.7706, trattoriamarcella.com

December 2013

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Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you’d do just about anything to make at home? Email us at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe By Popular Demand.

Trattoria Marcella’s Homemade Meatballs Over Creamy Parmigiano Polenta 4 Servings Courtesy of Trattoria Marcella’s Steve Komorek Marcella’s Homemade Meatballs Extra-virgin olive oil Half a yellow onion, finely diced 1½ Tbsp. minced garlic 6 slices white bread 1 cup whole milk ½ bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped ¾ Tbsp. chopped fresh basil 1½ lbs. ground chuck 1 lb. ground pork 1½ cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1½ cups plain breadcrumbs 2 large farm eggs 1½ Tbsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. crushed fennel seed ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes • Coat a saute pan with extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Saute the onion and garlic until soft. Remove from heat and set aside.

• In a shallow bowl, soak the slices of bread in the milk for 2 to 3 minutes.

• In a food processor, purée the sauteed onion and garlic with the parsley and basil. Transfer to a large bowl and add the soaked bread and any remaining milk, ground chuck, ground pork, cheese, breadcrumbs, eggs, salt, fennel, black pepper and red pepper flakes. Mix by hand for 5 minutes. Let the mixture rest for 1 hour.

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Using wet hands, form about 15 tennis ball-sized meatballs and place on a baking sheet.

• Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until cooked through.

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• While the meatballs are baking, prepare the tomato sauce and the polenta (Recipes follow.). When the meatballs are done, keep warm in the tomato sauce. To serve, divide the polenta equally among 4 bowls.

Ladle meatballs and sauce over the polenta. Unused sauce and meatballs will keep, covered, in the refrigerator up to 5 days.

San Marzano Tomato Sauce Extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 1½ Tbsp. minced garlic 4 16-oz. cans whole San Marzano tomatoes 1½ Tbsp. chopped fresh basil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • Coat a medium pot with extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Saute the onion, carrot and garlic until soft.

• Meanwhile, add the tomatoes to a large bowl and crush with your hands.

• Add the crushed tomatoes, basil and salt and pepper to the pot with the sauteed vegetables. Stir to combine.

Cook 30 minutes over medium heat.

• Carefully purée the sauce in a food processor or with a hand blender.

Creamy Parmigiano Polenta 2 cups chicken stock 1 cup cream (40 percent) 2 Tbsp. sweet butter Kosher salt to taste 2 cups instant polenta 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano • Bring the chicken stock, cream and butter to a boil. Salt liberally to taste.

• Slowly add the instant polenta, whisking constantly. Cook 5 to 7 minutes, whisking periodically. The polenta is finished when it pulls away from the pan slightly. Stir in the grated Parmigiano until well mixed. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

‘Twas the night after dinner service, when all through the house, not a creature was stirring besides a chef and his spouse.

by julie cohen recipes by patrick connolly photos by greg rannells

Hurry Up,

I’m starving

Chicken Soup recipe on p. 44

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Patrick Connolly serves his wife, Suzanne, chicken soup.

Find the recipe on p. 44.

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Roasted

halibut with spinach and fingerling potatoes active time: 20 minutes recipe on p. 44

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He goes into our pantry and knows. The first time he was at my house, I had nothing in my kitchen. Nothing. He somehow managed to pull together this amazing frittata. I was like, ‘I don’t even know where you got the ingredients for this.’ I thought he was going to grab a frozen Lender’s bagel. He takes whatever is there and creates a meal. It’s pretty awesome.”

Although Patrick claims to rarely repeat one of his by-the-fly dinners, there are certain mainstays, like chicken soup. “I have two versions. One is the daylong chicken soup that’s on the stove for six hours. And the other is the ‘Hurry up, I’m starving’ version.”

“I’m convinced his chicken soup heals people,” Suzanne says. “I’m not kidding.”

“Suze tried to make one when we were living in Brooklyn. I remember because when I got home, there was this poor drowning chicken in the bottom of a stockpot covered in water just looking up at me like, ‘Somebody do something.’”

“I can defrost, and I put things in the microwave,” Suzanne defends herself.

atrick and Suzanne Connolly know a thing or two about being night owls.

From the moment they met and began dating from a distance – Suzanne living in New York City, Patrick working in Boston at Radius, for which he would receive the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef: Northeast in 2008 – to their newlywed years in New York to his current job at Italian gastro-pub Basso, Patrick has always been an executive chef. “It’s so funny when my friends call me and say, ‘I’m so mad at my husband.

He did not tell me he was coming home at 8 o’clock tonight,’” Suzanne says. “I’m like, 8?

That’s awesome!”

But just because the hours are often long and always late, doesn’t mean the Connollys December 2013

never eat dinner together. At least a few nights a week, Suzanne stays up until Patrick gets home, so they can share a meal. She prefers not to cook. Why should she? When you’re married to a chef (and consequently a restaurant and its hours), there have to be perks.

So what happens after dark, when the rest of us are sated and asleep? A midnight meal that must be fast, easy and, most importantly, worth the wait.

Suzanne describes a routine night: “He walks in and I say, ‘Feed me.’ And he’s like, ‘I just walked in.’ I say, ‘Feed me. I’m dying.’

“That one holiday you made brisket …” Patrick encourages.

“I can make a few family recipes.”

“And there’s her spaghetti and meat sauce recipe …” Patrick says with a smile.

“He doesn’t think my meat sauce is real because I use Prego.” [Patrick laughs.] “I add meat. I doctor it up.”

“With canned mushrooms.”

“God forbid, we just have easy-peasy,” Suzanne retorts. “He’s incapable of just making a normal grilled cheese. Everything has to be presented and plated.”

“It’s principle.” saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

Roasted halibut with spinach and fingerling potatoes 2 servings Active Time: 20 minutes 1 lb. fingerling potatoes 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. sliced chives 10 oz. fresh spinach 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 lemon 2 Tbsp. canola oil 2 6-oz. skinless halibut fillets 1 Tbsp. butter 2 sprigs thyme For the potatoes • Place the potatoes in a pot, cover with cold water, and cook over high heat for 10 minutes, or until tender. Strain and cut each potato into thirds.

• In a saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat until it begins to ripple.

Add the potatoes to the pan and roast for 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until browned and crispy.

• Season with salt, pepper and chives. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

For the spinach • In the same saute pan, toast the sliced garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat until the garlic is light brown.

• Add the spinach, cover, and decrease the heat to low. Cook for 3 minutes.

• Season with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. Save the lemon for garnish.

Transfer the spinach to a bowl and set aside.

For the halibut • In a saute pan, heat the canola oil over high heat until it begins to ripple.

• Season each halibut fillet with salt and pepper on the bone side (the side of the fish that would have been attached to the bone), pat dry and place bone-side down in the pan.

• Decrease the heat to medium and roast for 5 minutes.

• Season the other side with salt and pepper.

Carefully flip each fillet. Add the butter and thyme to the pan.

• Baste the fillets for 2 minutes with the butter and thyme.

• To serve: Divide the fillets, spinach and potatoes between two plates and garnish each with half a lemon.

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Short rib tacos with pico de gallo With the help of a slow cooker, quickly prep these short ribs before work, and then arrive home to find an almost-ready taco night (and your house smelling delcious).

3 servings Active Time: 20 minutes 2 Tbsp. canola oil 1½ lbs. boneless beef short ribs Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 small yellow onion, roughly chopped 1 carrot, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, smashed 1 Fresno chile, halved 1 cup red wine 8 oz. crushed tomatoes 1 quart beef stock 1 sprig thyme Tortillas Pico de gallo (Recipe follows.)

Optional toppings: rice, chopped avocado, lime, cotija cheese, sour cream, beans, hot sauce, lettuce • In a large pan over high heat, heat the canola oil until it begins to ripple.

• Season the short ribs lightly with salt and pepper.

• Brown one side of the ribs, flip and add the onion, carrot, garlic and chile. Continue to cook until the other side of the ribs browns.

• With the ribs still in the pan, deglaze the pan with the red wine. Let sit for 30 seconds before adding the tomatoes, beef stock and thyme.

• Transfer contents of the pan into a slow cooker and cook on high for 4 hours.

• After 4 hours, remove the thyme. Pour the remaining liquid into a saucepan. Reserve the ribs.

• Reduce the liquid to a glaze and then place the ribs in the pan. Coat the ribs with the glaze and then shred for serving.

• Serve the short ribs in warm tortillas. Top with pico de gallo and any optional toppings.

pico de gallo 2 small vine-ripened tomatoes 5 radishes Half a small white onion 1 jalapeño 1 bunch cilantro Juice of 1 lime Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • Roughly chop all of the ingredients and mix in a bowl. Add all of the ingredients to a food processor and pulse for a few seconds. Season to taste.

Hurry Up, I’m starving Chicken Soup 12 servings Active Time: 30 minutes 1 cup diced onion 1 cup diced celery ¾ cup diced carrot 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbsp. minced ginger ¼ cup, plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, diced 4 quarts chicken stock ¼ cup chopped parsley 2 Tbsp. chopped thyme 1 Tbsp. paprika Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 12-oz. package egg noodles • In a stockpot over medium-high heat, sweat the onion, celery, carrot, garlic and ginger in ¼ cup olive oil for 5 minutes.

• Add the chicken and continue to cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

• Add the stock, parsley, thyme, paprika and salt and pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium and simmer for another 10 minutes.

• In a separate pot, cook the egg noodles in water.

• Drain the noodles, and immediately toss in 1 tablespoon of oil.

• To serve, spoon the noodles into bowls and ladle the soup on top.

I’m convinced his chicken soup heals people. I’m not kidding.

— Suzanne Connolly

December 2013

short rib

tacos with pico de gallo active time: 20 minutes

December 2013

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7

Mr. T, Liberace and Trinidad Jame$ have nothing on us when it comes to our love of gold. Whether it has a little gold flourish or it’s fully gilded, each of these luxe products stands out and shines hard. – Meera Nagarajan p. 1 of 2

4

6

5

cupcake and tray Photos by elizabeth jochum

1. Tom Dixon Bash Vessel.

From bills to bananas, put anything in this bowl, and it will look good.

TOM DIXON BASH VESSELS $235 to $395. Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0111, centro-inc.com

December 2013

2

“Byzantine” Flatware Service $75 to $270.

Available online only, Neiman Marcus, neimanmarcus.com

24-Karat Carrot Cake $5. Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café, 8509 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.993.5455, jillyscupcakebar.com

Measuring Hedgies $36 (set of four).

Anthropologie, 1155 St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, 314.727.7419, anthropologie.com

Gold Trays $5 and $12.50. The White Rabbit, 9030 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.963.9784, thewhiterabbitstl.com

Swell Water Bottle $35. Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com

Apollo Gold Series Barouni ExtraVirgin Olive Oil $27 for 375 ml. Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com

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12. One pull and these napkins magically puff into the shape of a deceptively complex star.

p. 2 of 2

10 9

Bodom Eileen French Press Coffee Maker $60. Available online only, Saks Fifth Avenue, saksfifthavenue.com

Dan Mirer Gold Foil Blown Glassware $48 to $90. Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.1177 ext. 322, craftalliance.org

Michael Michaud Spoon Rest and napkin rings Maple Leaf Spoon Rest: $60; Napkin Rings: $50 to $72 (set of four). Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.1177 ext. 322, craftalliance.org

Gold Collection $16 to $144.

Cocktail Kingdom, cocktailkingdom.com

Now Designs Origami Napkins $10 (set of 12). Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

Gold Rim Terracotta Cachepot $14 and $22. Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868, bowoodfarms.com足足足

La Cornue CornuF辿 1908 Stove with brass finish $10,500. Available online only, WilliamsSonoma, williamssonoma.com

cachepot, napkin and craft alliance photos by elizabeth jochum

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8 11. These home bar basics are the new gold standard.

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the

t e rs t i b

The cook’s secret weapon is stashed behind the bar

By

y liga

gu a fi

eras

wit h

anne marie lodhol z pho

tos b c ar m e n y tr o e

sser

Hundreds of bitters were around before Prohibition, but The Noble Experiment changed all that. By 2004, only three commercially made bitters were on the market. But the cocktail boon (accompanied with a love for small-batch everything and a quest for all things esoteric) has led to a market saturated with so many brands and flavors of bitters that the drink writer can barely finish his Manhattan featuring a few dashes of Scrappy’s orange bitters before it’s time to try another one featuring Snake Oil tobacco bitters. For contemporary cocktail kings like Gary Regan and Dale DeGroff, the bitters they required to craft golden age drinks no longer existed, so they created them themselves.

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l trip

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e

co l o h c

a

okies o c te

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Wilted radicchio & bacon salad

with Peychaud’s dressing

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December 2013

n the same

spirit of noble experimentation, we’re reconsidering bitters as not just the bartender’s spice rack, but as a whole new seasoning category for food. Why? Because aromatic bitters, also known as cocktail bitters, are made from so many ingredients – roots, barks, fruit peels, seeds and spices – all infused in high-proof alcohol. Just one dash is a concentrated flavor explosion. And despite the name, not all bitters taste bitter, since primary flavoring agents range from fruit to vegetable to flower to herb. Such condensed flavor can be the secret weapon for the kind of cook who gets giddy when rooting through the spice cabinet for unusual seasonings to add to chicken, curry or cookies. Your bitters culinary journey doesn’t have to begin with a trip to the liquor store to buy every brand lining the shelves.

Instead, take stock of what’s in your bar right now. Mine held old friends Angostura and Peychaud’s, along with a bottle of barely used chocolate bitters.

With this trio in hand and cooking partner Anne Marie at my side, we tied our aprons and set to work.

A Sazerac wouldn’t be the same without Peychaud’s, whose light cherry spice and bright anise bring out the best in rye whiskey, absinthe, sugar and a lemon twist.

Put Peychaud’s to work in the kitchen, and it can give a floral lift to a warm salad. Cold month lettuces like radicchio can taste acerbic, so you might not think bitter on bitter to be the best idea. Yet, in a dressing, the ruby red liquid harmonizes with sweet honey and salty rendered bacon fat. The result: a hearty wintertime salad that’ll beget the home cook nothing but praise at a dinner party.

December 2013

While I’m not among the elect few who are privy to the potent bittering and flavoring agents used to make Angostura so beloved in an Old-Fashioned, I sniffed out clove, cinnamon, cola nut and orange peel in the top-secret formula. Together they screamed, “Use me with meat!” It turns out that Angostura adds such a depth of flavor to a steak sauce, especially one prepared with mushrooms. Even if you hate beef, make the sauce, forgo the meat and lap up this silky reduction with a hunk of crusty bread. Classified as a food product in many countries, Angostura holds huge potential for the pot, from soups to stews to roasted veggies. Just a couple of dashes can add more nuance to a dish than any single spice from the beststocked pantry.

My bottle of Fee Brothers Aztec chocolate bitters seemed like it would be most content in a sweet treat. If I were a cake lady, I wouldn’t hesitate to use chocolate bitters or chocolate mole bitters to shake up chocolate icing or buttercream filling. But I was curious whether it could outperform vanilla extract in a chocolate cookie. To highlight – not mask – the bitters, I substituted it for the vanilla, adding at least four times the amount called for in a typical chocolate chip recipe. Cutting back to just one egg and adjusting the fats kept the liquid-todry ratio in check. Chilling the dough gave the ingredients a chance to bind, so the cookies didn’t spread thin while baking.

Selfishly munching on bitters-forward chocolate cookies that I should have served with glad tidings to carolers, I began compiling a mental list of more bitters projects: Spritz fragrant lemon bitters atop hummus. Use grapefruit bitters in a vinaigrette over mâche lettuce.

Whip orange bitters into a compound butter for a lemon pound cake. Bitters are so versatile in the kitchen – in dishes savory or sweet, used at room temperature or put under heat – that the only limitation is the cook’s imagination (and running out of those precious 4 fluid ounces). From now on, I’ll be buying two bottles at a time: one for the bar, the other for the kitchen.

Drink This A bitter thirstquencher

Tend to get thirsty while you’re cooking? Don’t uncork a bottle of wine. Just fill a glass with club soda and ice, and shake in a few dashes of your favorite bitters. It’s refreshing, flavorful, low-cal, un-weighted by sugar – and you’ll still be coherent when you sit down for dinner.

Recipes on page 54. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 53

Wilted radicchio and bacon salad with Peychaud’s dressing 4 servings Guests will never be able to guess that Peychaud’s is the mystery ingredient in the dressing that blankets this warm, wintertime salad.

1 head radicchio (about 1 lb.)

4 pieces bacon, diced into lardons 1 medium yellow onion, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 3 tsp. Peychaud’s bitters 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. yellow mustard ½ tsp. honey Blue cheese crumbles (optional) • Cut the radicchio in half, then cut each half into quarters. Rinse gently and pat dry. Set aside.

• In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon. When the bacon begins to crisp, add the onion and saute until translucent. Transfer the bacon-onion mixture to a large bowl and set aside.

• To the same saucepan, add the radicchio and salt and pepper to taste.

Saute the radicchio until browned.

• To the bowl with the bacon-onion mixture add: olive oil, bitters, lemon juice, mustard, honey and salt and pepper to taste. Whisk to combine.

Fold in the radicchio. Garnish with blue cheese crumbles, if desired.

Mushroom-Angostura Steak Sauce 4 to 6 servings Angostura in steak sauce is another weapon for the grill master’s arsenal.

4 Tbsp. salted butter, divided 2 shallots, minced

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2 cups sliced oyster mushrooms 2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms 1 Tbsp. minced fresh thyme leaves (no stems) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 3¼ cups low-sodium chicken stock, divided 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. Angostura bitters • In a saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the mushrooms, thyme and salt and pepper to taste.

• When the mushrooms begin to release their liquid (about 3 minutes), add ½ cup chicken stock. Immediately increase the heat to medium-high.

When the liquid begins to reduce, add another ½ cup stock. Let simmer 5 to 7 minutes, until the mushrooms have softened, adding an additional ¼ cup stock, if needed.

• In a small bowl, make a paste by combining the remaining 2 tablespoons butter with the flour. Add the paste, along with the remaining 2 cups chicken stock, to the saucepan.

• Bring the sauce back to a simmer and add the bitters. Season to taste.

Decrease heat to low and simmer 20 minutes, until reduced by half.

Triple chocolate cookies 3 dozen cookies Here, chocolate bitters substitute for vanilla extract. In combination with cocoa powder and chocolate chips, these cookies are a triple threat. ½ cup unsalted butter ½ cup shortening ½ cup brown sugar ¼ cup sugar 5 tsp. chocolate bitters (such as Fee Brothers Aztec chocolate bitters) 1 egg

1¼ cups all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. cocoa powder 1 tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. salt 1 cup chocolate chips • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a large mixing bowl, cream together the butter, shortening and sugars. Add the bitters and the egg. Beat well. Set aside.

• In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda,

baking powder and salt. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients. Stir to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions. Fold in the chocolate chips.

• Cover the bowl and refrigerate 30 minutes.

• Drop dough by the large spoonful onto ungreased cookie sheets.

• Bake 8 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack. Let cool completely, before storing, covered, at room temperature.

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stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

Anheuser-Busch Holiday Lights Display Fridays and Saturdays through Dec. 28 – 6 to 9 p.m., Anheuser-Busch Brewery Tour Center, 1200 Lynch St., St. Louis, 314.577.2626, facebook. com/stlbudtours

In its 28th year, the free holiday light display at A-B just got cooler. There are more lights, plus live music, a walking tour and an ornament-decorating station. And don’t miss the photo opportunities with the Clydesdales or inside an inflatable snow globe. The food and beer experience has been ramped up, too. Look for fire pits for roasting s’mores (S’more-making kits, kettle corn and hot chocolate are for sale.), and complimentary seasonal beer samples (Shock Top Chocolate Wheat, Stella Artois Cidre and Bud Light Lime Cran-Brrr-Rita) for adults. Free drive-thru tours also are available Sunday through Thursday evenings from dusk until midnight through Dec. 31.

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home goods, crafts and pick-me-ups to enjoy at the market, like coffee and hot tea.

Gingerbread House Workshop Dec. 7 and 14 – noon to 4 p.m., Whole Foods Market Galleria, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., 314.968.7744; Whole Foods Market Town & Country, 1160 Town & Country Commons, 636.527.1160, wholefoodsmarket.com Make a quick and dirty gingerbread house at the Whole Foods Gingerbread House Workshop. Twenty bucks gets your kid (or you) the gingerbread house, icing, decorating materials (candy!) and instruction from a Whole Foods staff member. Kids of all ages welcome. We’re considering bringing our own candy accoutrements. A winding sidewalk made of sticks of Juicy Fruit gum looks pretty cool. Call for reservations.

Clayton Indoor Farmers Market

Cocktail Wars: St. Louis

Dec. 7 and 21 – 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Center of Clayton, 50 Gay Ave., Clayton, 314.913.6632, claytonfarmersmarket.com

Dec. 10 - 7 p.m., Mad Art Gallery, 2727 S. 12th St., St. Louis, dishcrawl.com/ cocktailwarsstl

The wind blows through the skeletal trees, and the ground turns brown and cold.

But it’s cool, baby – some farmers markets never close. The Clayton FM heads indoors to the capacious Center of Clayton for the first and third Saturdays of the month through April (except January when it’s only open on Jan. 4). The December markets are all about the holidays; look for samples of holiday fare, gift ideas, fresh produce, holiday pies,

There can only be one – one top St. Louis bartender who will represent the city in the North American mixology competition, Cocktail Wars. Social foodand-drink business Dishcrawl puts on the contest, which pits five area finalists against each other. Guests will watch the onstage concocting, taste and vote for their faves along with a panel of five local luminaries from the beverage and food industry.

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Great Stone Hill Beast Feast Dec. 13 – 7 p.m., Stone Hill Winery, 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, 314.590.2231, stonehillwinery.com Like, roar, man.

The annual Great Stone Hill Beast Feast is an unpredictable wild game dinner that has included such delicacies as pecan-encrusted pheasant tenderloin, venison rumaki, wild turkey chowder, squirrel cacciatore, goose roulade, port-braised beaver and smoked bear roast. What will line the buffet this year? The event organizers don’t release the menu beforehand; it all depends on what area hunters are able to bag. This fundraiser for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society also includes silent and live auctions, a raffle under a heated pavilion and plenty of Missouri wine, of course.

Call for reservations.

Dinner with Santa at Saint Louis Zoo Dec. 20 to 23 – 5 and 7 p.m., Saint Louis Zoo, 1 Government Drive, St. Louis, 314.646.4897, stlzoo.org What happens when your child pigs out at an Italian buffet and then sits on Santa’s lap for an excitable tête-à-tête? Hopefully everyone will remain calm at dinner with Santa, and digestion will proceed as planned.

The cost of admission includes parking, a dinner of kid-friendly carbs, admission to the Wild Lights holiday-light display, visits from costumed characters Rudolph and Frosty and a photo with Santa. Call for availability and reservations.

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For 12 years, industry veteran Matt McGuire co-owned King Louie’s, until the restaurant’s doors closed in 2007. Since then, he’s made his mark as a general manager – at Monarch, Brasserie, Central Table Food Hall and now Niche. McGuire considers the GM job akin to being a soccer coach or teacher. But on any given day, he might also play referee, EMT, bouncer, psychotherapist – even mind reader. Here’s the inside story on being Matt McGuire.

What have you learned in your 20plus years in the biz?

To be good at the job in the front of the house, you have to give

What kind of fires do you put out on any given day?

I’ve given the Heimlich to tons of people. … Deal with people who are super-drunk when they come in the door. … A lot of times, people will be way too upset about something. That can be the part that is most draining – just dealing with humans. But it’s also the part I like.

And teaching other people how to handle it.

What’s the strangest situation you’ve had to deal with?

At King Louie’s, the Barnum & Bailey circus train stopped behind the restaurant. They all came in to eat and drink. A guy had his dog with him. The dog sat at the bar. We were trying to make the decision behind the scenes whether or not to ask him to leave. The guy had his whole meal. The dog sat right next to him. It was like an out-ofbody, Fellini-esque [moment], where

you’re like, “This is not happening.

This doesn’t happen at the fancy restaurant that I worked before I came here.”

What are the hallmarks of good service?

I learned a lot watching the Bommaritos [owners of Tony’s] over the years. They remain the paramount of what service is supposed to be. It’s relaxed; it is confident; it is not overly formal.

What kind of pressure do you feel working at Niche?

A lot. This is a totally different level of “slammed.” You can do 60 guests and feel wiped out. Managing those expectation levels are everything.

You have to over-deliver because of everything they read.

What has changed about dining over the years?

Diners are way less present than they used to be. They are way more into recording their experience than experiencing the experience.

What excites you about the St. Louis restaurant scene?

There are enough people that are

talented that have stayed. Those were few and far between 15 years ago. All those kids [points to the Niche kitchen] are from Chicago. They’re here because of this restaurant. A restaurant as compelling as Niche that challenges them on a professional level didn’t exist back then.

Your opinion is well respected around town. How frequently do you get calls from peers about, “Should I hire this person?”

Every day.

What advice do you have for those in the restaurant industry?

Who you are is made up by how you act every day. If you’re late every day, we know you as “late person.” If you’re sloppy, we know you as the sloppy person.

Whoever you aspire to be, bring it every day. And then, wherever you go, you have practice of being that person.

Are you a restaurant guy for life?

Yeah, the possibility of me being an investment banker or an underwater welder is probably past me now.

– Ligaya Figueras

Photo by jonathan gayman

A Chat with Matt McGuire

something of yourself. Otherwise, the guests see through you. The physical work is hard, but the hard part is the mental. It is putting yourself in a position every night to be welcoming and solicitous and kind.

Niche 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com

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