December 2015 by Sauce Magazine

B EST N EW R ESTAU RANTS

leeks at público, this year's best new restaurant p. 30

W H I S P E R E R

NOW TRENDING

RED CURRY

OF HOLIDAY CHEER

THE KNIFE

P O U T I N E

IN A H U RRY

P. 23

P. 46

P. 10

P. 27

S I X - P A C K

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

December 2015

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, DECEMBER 2015

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contents DECEMBER 2015

editors' picks

ELIXIR Holiday beer cheer

by katie herrera

EAT THIS Chicken Adobo at Guerrilla Street Food

VEGETIZE IT Not-fish tacos

TRENDWATCH A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now

by catherine klene and kristin schultz

by kellie hynes 27

MAKE THIS Salmon with red curry sauce

by dee ryan

reviews 13

NEW AND NOTABLE Reeds American Table

by michael renner

last course 44

STUFF TO DO by kristin schultz 46

POWER LUNCH

WHAT I DO

Medina Mediterranean Grill

Dan Bertarelli of Bertarelli Cutlery

by hilary hitchcock

by heather hughes

The kale salad at Reeds American Table, p. 13

NIGHTLIFE Cellar House

by matt berkley

dine & drink 21

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and ted and jamie kilgore

December 2015

Features 30

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan, kristin schultz and rosanne toroian

COVER DETAILS Best New Restaurants Charred leeks with roe and crema steal the show at Público, our best new restaurant of the year. Find out the other 10 restaurants that topped our list on p. 30. PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

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D E C E M B E R 2 015 • VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 12 What's your favorite new St. Louis restaurant?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR FACT CHECKERS PROOFREADERS PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I'd choose Byrd & Barrel. Delicious fried chicken with a drive-thru!

EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2015 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Randolfi's Italian Heather Hughes Kitchen Catherine Klene Catherine Klene We’re all Kristin Schultz #blessed to have Rosanne Toroian Southern in Rebecca Koenig, Kristin Schultz our lives. Emily Lowery, Kristin Schultz Michelle Volansky Dustin Bryson, Jonathan Gayman, Elizabeth Maxson, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Katie Herrera, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Rosanne Toroian Rebecca Ryan Rebecca Ryan Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Sophie Handler, Julia Keller

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 December 2015

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

Even if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not Filipino, a comforting bowl of CHICKEN ADOBO at GUERRILLA STREET FOOD will make you think of home. Chicken thighs are braised in a fragrant blend of cider vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, black peppercorns and bay leaves until meltingly tender. The kitchen crew then spoons it over a simple bed of jasmine rice, which soaks up the PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

rich sauce. Every culture has its version of chicken and rice, and this just might be the best one.

GUERRILLA STREET FOOD, 3559 ARSENAL ST., ST. LOUIS, 314.529.1328, GUERRILLASTREETFOOD.COM

December 2015

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A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now BY CATHERINE KLENE AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ

Slick Trick Bartenders around town are dropping and shaking oils into cocktails for huge flavor, body and intensity. At Central Table, the What is That, Velvet? daiquiri is shaken with extra-virgin olive oil for a soft, consistent texture. Terry Oliver amps up the orange flavor in Frazer’s Julius Benedict with orange culinary oil, and The Libertine’s Ben Bauer infused olive oil with coriander for his Good Like Goldblum.

SPIRIT OF NORWAY There are only two things to do during a long Norwegian winter – drink and, well, you can figure it out. Aquavit, a neutral distilled spirit flavored with herbs and botanicals, is the Norwegian sauce of choice. Lucky for us, the clear, full-bodied liquor isn’t just for Scandinavians. Chat up Matt Osmoe at Blood & Sand and sample the flavor variations ranging from dill to caraway to anise. Have it mixed by Randolfi’s Jeffrey Moll in the lemonadelike Madam I’m Adam. Emphasizing Aquavit’s food-friendly qualities, Planter’s House can whip up a bloody mary-esque Bloody Well Right.

Steak tartare at Randolfi's

put an egg on it: the sequel Whites may be the healthy darling of the egg, but yolks are packed with flavor and are perfect for curing with salt and a bit of sugar. Catch them runny with the steak tartare at Randolfi’s and Truffles, or dried and shaved over a plate of pasta carbonara at Wildflower. Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine features them frequently on dishes like its avocado gazpacho with crispy pork jowl.

When Americans slather french fries in cheese, meat and gravy, it’s called drunk food. When Canadians do it, it’s called poutine, which has taken St. Louis by storm. Byrd & Barrel covers house-made tater tots in smoked chicken, cheese curds and either smoked mushroom or fried chicken gravy in the South Side Poutine. Winslow’s Home likewise uses tots in its poutine with oxtail gravy. Retreat Gastropub keeps it veg-friendly with mushroom gravy and fried fingerling potatoes, while Small Batch swaps cheese curds for gooey fontina on its house-cut fries. The Libertine ups the ante with sweet peas and foie gras gravy, and the newly opened Copper Pig offers three versions: traditional with beef gravy, a duck confit or a saag paneer option. Urban Chestnut in The Grove has a poutine of the moment that previously featured white gravy with chicken and bacon. Or cash it all in for the foie gras poutine at Sidney Street Cafe featuring a crispy potato cake, french fryencrusted foie and pickled apples.

Poutine at Byrd & Barrel

Grape Crush

Chefs around the country are taking grapes to the next level with vinegar, smoke, dehydration and high heat. New York’s Blue Hill restaurant pairs smoked grapes with Brussels sprouts and uses dehydrated grapes in a chicken dish. Blackbird in Chicago pairs pickled grapes with scallops. Get in on the trend closer to home with the newly opened Standard Brewing’s Coraline salad, where sweet-sour pickled grapes are tossed with radishes, goat cheese and spinach. Sound weird? Give them a try at Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar in a starter, or see how they do when roasted with mushrooms in both the seared scallops and the strip steak at Eclipse. At Randolfi’s try the lamb hearts and sausage starter with roasted grapes.

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B A L L ER

The great meatball debate rages on: What blend of beef, pork or lamb truly makes the best meatball? We say, throw ’em all out and expand your repertoire. Chef Rob Beasley at Chaumette Winery and Vineyard did just that, adding elk meatballs to his fall menu, served atop romesco sauce with polenta cakes and greens. The kitchen crew at Retreat Gastropub crowns a nest of spaghetti squash with turkey meatballs and yellow tomato jam. In September, Kitchen Kulture’s Michael Miller rolled up a chicken-fennel version along with a veg-friendly chickpea-pimento option at his Thursday Sump lunch. And this summer, Death in the Afternoon dedicated an entire dinner menu to meatballs, serving up three options: traditional spicy pork, a ground turkey and vegan version using quinoa. December 2015

EGG YOLK PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS; POUTINE PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Don't Call Them Cheese Fries

December 2015

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

lamb sugo at reeds american table

new and notable Reeds American Table BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

f there were a fantasy restaurant league where diners could assemble their kitchen dream team, I’d bet – legally, of course – on Reeds American Table, Matthew Daughaday’s first venture as a chef-owner. Not since Element opened with a buzz-worthy quartet of top chefs has such a nonpareil food and drink team been assembled.

new and notable REEDS AMERICAN TABLE p. 13 / power lunch MEDINA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL p. 16 / nightlife CELLAR HOUSE p. 19 December 2015

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of mashed potatoes with arugula on top and rutabaga, parsnips and carrots scattered about. Roasted pork loin was served on a bed of fried rice studded with bacon, pea shoots and carrots – just the kind of twist Daughaday likes to surprise us with. It’s sauced with a beurre monté incorporating soy, making the surprise a savory one.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

The menu is primarily static, but things do come and go. That pork loin was off the menu on my next visit, as was the roasted airline chicken breast I hoped to order. On the small plates and snacks side, five of the 13 items were cut … but not the cornbread. (Never that bacon fat-fried dream!) I hope we can also count on the chicken potpie as a regular: a cast-iron ramekin of diced chicken and chunky winter vegetables baked in a subtle sherry-leek cream sauce topped with buttery, golden brown puff pastry. Kale salads have become rote, but I loved the crunch and soft chew of roasted butternut squash, dried cherries and pancetta, the sharp tang of feta and creamy junipermaple dressing in the shaved kale salad. It was the best kale salad since Cleveland-Heath’s.

Braised beef cheek at Reeds American Table

A member of the 2013 class of Sauce’s Ones to Watch, Daughaday quickly gained a reputation for his homey, comforting food as former executive chef of Gerard Craft’s Taste. The efflorescence of his plain-spoken, post-nouvelle cuisine is evident in every new bistro, brasserie, gastropub or modern tavern moniker; indeed, Daughaday refers to Reeds as an American brasserie.

and slathered with honey-thyme butter. Daughaday’s seductive lamb sugo also made the move from Taste with all its concentrated, meltingly tender meatiness intact. Shredding the slow-cooked meat gives the dish additional heft, something for the sturdy, frilly-edged cresta rigate pasta to grab on to. Green olives, orange zest, mint and a dollop of creme fraiche make this dish a winter standout.

You see that concept all over the menu, as with the cornbread, a Taste transfer with a crumb so elegant you’d think you were eating cake. But this low-brow dish is high on everyone’s list because each crispy-edged chunk is fried in bacon fat

AT A GLANCE Reeds American Table

One night’s butcher selection was teres major, a beef cut that’s getting more attention for its balance of tenderness and flavor, as well as its affordability. Cooked medium-rare, it came sliced on the bias and spread over a bed

Where Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com

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If you feel like you’ve been in this long, narrow room before, you probably have. The weathered plank wall behind the wooden banquette lined with tables just close enough to be comfortably convivial, and coveted storefront window seating all exude the same rustic and cozy vibe of the former occupant, Home Wine Kitchen. But there are big changes. Notably, the bar now gleams with subway tile and industrial shelving. Seating has nearly doubled with the opening of the second floor for those with reservations, something strongly suggested since Reeds’ reputation keep both levels busy

Don’t Miss Dishes Lamb sugo, shaved kale salad, bacon fatfried cornbread

Vibe Downstairs is barnwood rustic and cozy, while upstairs is sparse and loud.

for hours. And loud. During one visit, the open upstairs room with high ceilings and a wall of windows accentuated the celebratory exhortations of three separate groups. At one point, the room’s decibel level measured 93 on my smartphone app, right up there with a jackhammer. Fortunately, noise reduction plans are underway. As you make your way up the wide staircase, pause to smile at the wall of staff baby pictures, then try not to drool when you peer into the enclosed wine cellar. Beverage director Andrey Ivanov (formerly of Elaia and Olio and the 2015 winner of the Chaine des Rotissuer’s Best Young Sommelier Competition) does what he seems born to do: introduce us to unusual, exciting Old- and NewWorld wines, many of which he procures himself. Even the cheap Portuguese house wines were satisfying and served at the proper cellar temperature. Ivanov’s bar team consists of Adam Smith, coffee guru Zach Althaus (class of 2015 Ones to Watch and formerly of Sump Coffee) and Richard Vagnio (formerly of Small Batch). Of the seven house cocktails, I recommend the Imaginary Friend (rye, vermouth and French bitters); one, because it’s delicious, and two, I used to have one. It’s also nice to see a good Pilsner in the draft beer lineup, a style often lacking among tappers elsewhere. Thank beer director and certified cicerone David Schroeder for going with the Czechoslovakian Budvar. Executive pastry chef Summer Wright (another Craft alum from Brasserie), sticks to classics like panna cotta, pot de crème, affogato and a pumpkin tart that I thought would be good enough until it arrived with maple ice cream, date-caramel and pecans, pushing it over the top. With Reeds American Table, Daughaday has turned our fantasy kitchen team into delicious reality. And that’s a big win for all of us.

Entree Prices $15 to $22

When Sun., Mon., Wed., Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.

December 2015

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reviews POWER LUNCH

Power Lunch

MEDINA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Some dishes at the family-run Medina Mediterranean Grill showcase chefowner Ibrahim Ead’s Palestinian heritage, but as the name indicates, many travel widely throughout the Mediterranean region. Fusion cooking is difficult to do well and can do a disservice to the foods of particular cultures by combining them. Medina has no such problem.

1 THE SPACE Medina Mediterranean Grill 1327 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.1356, medinagrill.com

The restaurant seats about two dozen with sidewalk tables available in warmer weather. The decor is understated and tasteful. Arabic calligraphy and posters hang on the exposed brick walls, and tiles in muted tones surround the counter and open kitchen, where beef and chicken shawarma pirouette on onion-topped vertical spits. When you arrive at the counter you may get samples to help you order, but I was only offered the option on my first visit.

BAKLAVA DAYDREAMS Dessert selections vary, but usually include baklava. This square of buttery goodness with walnuts was unlike most honey-heavy versions I’ve had. It was so good, baklava daydreams distracted me for weeks.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SHAWARMA Shawarma [1] varies among cultures and countries. Here, the Palestinian influence gives a sumac-forward flavor, lending a distinct, slightly tart bite. Before the meat is added to a dish, both chicken and beef are sliced from the skewers, seared on the grill and tossed with garlic tomato paste. The Original Palestine was the most traditional sandwich offering, with a choice of beef or chicken shawarma atop pita with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and tahini sauce. It was a particularly flavorful version of a familiar dish. The Dodana with chicken shawarma was also a big hit. The meat was remarkably tender, served on pita with black olives, onions, feta, pepperoncini, lettuce, tomatoes and cucumber sauce. Both are solid choices that didn’t disappoint. Less traditional, the Juicy Jerusalem with chicken shawarma was served on toasted French bread with onions, roasted bell peppers, provolone and basil pesto. The pesto played a quiet but welcome supporting role in the overall production. On a menu with many tasty offerings,

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for my taste. The Al-Andalus and shawarma salads both come with shawarma, if you want something more filling.

THE TAKEAWAY

this well-constructed sandwich was my favorite dish. Keeping with the nontraditional, fusion theme, the Medina Grilled Cheese sandwich (with cheddar, provolone, pepper jack and smoked Gouda served on French bread) was closer to cheesy bread than the typical, after-school snack version. I’ve never met a melted cheese I didn’t like, and there was nothing wrong with this FALAFEL FOR THE WIN A self-service fridge holds hummus plates [2] along with bottled drinks like soda, aloe and other juices. Goldilocks would choose this hummus; not too smooth or too chunky, it was just right. Topping options for the house-made hummus include pickles, chile

sauce or whole chickpeas. Each comes with thin triangles of pita, which would benefit from being warmed before served.

Medina Mediterranean Grill combines cross-cultural ingredients in a delightful way, which is no easy feat. It’s a great alternative to fast food: fresh and filling without weighing you down in the afternoon.

For a few extra dollars, you can add a drink and chips or falafel to a sandwich to make it a meal. This brings up an important question: Who wants chips when there’s falafel? On the first visit, it was a bit dry, an issue quickly remedied by the accompanying garlic tahini sauce. On my second trip, the falafel was ideal – perfectly seasoned, crispy on the outside and substantial without being dense. Several salads are available in whole and half sizes. I only tried the Aigosthena [3], which came with romaine (rather than the expected iceburg, which was a pleasant surprise), onion, tomato, olives, feta and a balsamic vinaigrette that was a bit too sweet

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nightlife

reviews

Cellar House

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DUSTIN BRYSON

Millionaire cocktail is worth lingering over, with Jamaican rum, sloe gin, Blume Marillen apricot eau-de-vie and a healthy dose of lime. Leo’s Lair, an unconventional house concoction, Cellar House pairs Lion’s Tooth 6039 Telegraph Road, dandelion liquor Oakville, 314.846.5100, with apricot and bottlecellars.com vanilla-infused Still 630 Rally Point Rye, topped with a squeeze of lemon and a hit of blueberry water. Potent, whiskey-forward and not overwhelmed by all the flowers and fruit, this on-the-rocks drink looks almost as good as it tastes. Less tasty was the Bringing Back the Dead cocktail, which also utilizes the local rye but mixes it with Cartron triple sec, Lillet Blanc and far too much lemon. Overall though, the mixology at Cellar House is rock solid and well-fortified in the whiskey department with a list of nearly 50 bourbons, ryes, scotches, and Irish and American whiskeys. The beer selection is likewise impressive. Imperial stouts, Pilsners, Belgian tripels, IPAs – these guys have them all and more in big and small bottles and cans and about a half-dozen drafts.

n an unassuming strip mall off Telegraph Road in Oakville, Cellar House looks like it may have spent a previous life as a Mystic Tan or a Panda Express. Step inside, however, and it’s clear time has marched on. Owner Patrick Ahearn has created an unexpected feast for the eyes with modern, minimalist design. Surrounded by franchises, Cellar House is a cool nightlife haven deep in South County. It’s Friday night, and sharp jazz tunes fill the space, occasionally interrupted by a rise of laughter or the sound of ice cascading in metal cocktail shakers. By 8 p.m., it’s pretty much standing room only. Unconcerned, young people hover at high-top tables waiting for an opening at the glossy bar. Behind them, December 2015

groups of friends sit at a line of tables hugging a banquette against the long wall. It’s loud. It’s buzzing. It’s hard to score a drink, but it’s worth the wait. Cellar House opened in May as an expansion of the Bottle Cellars Wine Shop next door. The new venture allows patrons to take advantage of the wine shop’s massive selection, popping corks for a nominal fee, and offers 20 by-theglass options available in 3- and 6-ounce pours. While there are certainly opportunities to blow the bank, most bottles are well priced, hovering in the $30 range. The real treats are found on the cocktail menu, with classic and house options packing a nice wallop for $9. The warm-weather

The bar’s food menu proudly touts local purveyors of cheeses, meats and vegetables like Eat Here St. Louis, Rain Crow Ranch, Geisert Farms, Salume Beddu and Ludwig Farmstead Creamery. True to form as a wine bar, the menu is heavy on boards, but it also offers substantial plates – think sage gnocchi, seared scallops and bison sliders. The caramelized onion and bacon bruschetta was a real star. A savory-sweet starter served on thick, crusty bread, it was slathered with rich whipped blue cheese-ricotta and finished with a light drizzle of balsamic. Better still was the ’nduja flatbread. What it lacks in size (only six tiny slices), it makes up for in flavor: Spicy salami meets sweet nibbles of sliced pear with local organic honey, crunchy bits of pistachio and rich melted blue cheese crumbles. It eats like a meal and pairs well with a big bold glass of red wine. Great bars offer a bit of escapism. Cellar House allows you to lose yourself with a small plate and a large glass in a gorgeous space. It’s proof that chic saloons aren’t the exclusive property of urban neighborhoods.

ORDER IT: Cellar House

Enjoy Cellar House’s impressive bar with the classic Millionaire (left) or house Leo’s Lair cocktail (above).

‘Nduja flatbread pairs the spicy sausage with sweet pears, honey, pistachio and blue cheese.

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Check out the Kilgores' favorite holiday liqueur

dine

& drink

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER; ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake South of Sacramento, Lodi, California is typically associated with old-vine zinfandel, but on a recent visit, I found a world-class Bordeaux-style blend, or Meritage (rhymes with heritage): the 2011 Lange GLENN BARDGETT Twins Midnight Reserve. David Member of the Missouri Wine Akiyoshi, former winemaker for and Grape Board and wine the Robert Mondavi Winery director at Annie Gunn’s in Napa Valley, constructed this outstanding wine using 38 percent cabernet sauvignon grapes, 31 percent petit verdot, 25 percent malbec and 6 percent merlot. At $25, it stands up to any comparable bottle at three or four times the price. Give one to the cab drinkers in your life and expand their repertoire. December 2015

Jamie is fanatical about the holidays, so we make boozy treats for friends and family every year. One festively colored favorite is our luscious homemade cranberry liqueur. In a glass container, combine 6 ounces Everclear, 7 ounces TED AND JAMIE water and ½ cup chopped KILGORE fresh cranberries. Let steep USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart 4 days (shaking or stirring and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House occasionally), then strain. Add 13 ounces simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water, heated until the sugar dissolves) and bottle to give as a gift or drink yourself. Try it with club soda and an orange slice or add a splash to a glass of Champagne.

Not all winter beers taste like pie, packed with cinnamon, nutmeg and other baking spices. Try one of these unexpected seasonals instead. Hop-lovers will CORY AND enjoy Sierra Nevada KAREN KING Celebration Ale, a Co-owners at Side Project super citrusy, fresh hop Brewing and The Side IPA. The light, BelgianProject Cellar style Bell’s Winter White Ale achieves a soft clove aroma without any additional spices. And Odell Isolation Ale, with caramel and dark fruit notes, is perfect to savor on a cold evening as you wish for snow. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

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BEER

H O L I D AY BEER CHEER

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

BY K AT I E H E R R E R A

Sing it with me: “It’s beginning to look a lot like … holiday beer season.” Embrace the centuries-old tradition of boozy, spicy, belly-warming brews for winter. The roots of “holiday” beer are embedded in mythology and winter solstice celebrations when pious pagans swilled fermentables to honor their gods. Later, medieval sippers imbibed warm, strong ale blended with roasted apples, spices and honey out of wassail bowls to celebrate Christmas. Many breweries now play around with Christmas ale December 2015

recipes, bringing their seasonal releases a bit closer to the days of wassail and mulled wine. Others introduce drinkers to more aggressive winter styles such as Imperial stouts, barley and wheat wines, old ales and winter warmers. Heavier malt bills create body, richness and depth, and the introduction of baking spices, herbs and fruit provide complexity. Alcohol content increases for welcome warmth as months get colder and days get shorter.

Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

Look for these locally available winter and holiday beers to toast the New Year:

2ND SHIFT BARREL-AGED I AM BECOME DEATH WHEAT WINE (10.5 percent ABV) is full of booze, malt and tingly feelings. Aged in sherry barrels that once housed Pinckney Bend whiskey, this beast warms the palate with notes of caramel and wood while finishing with slight sherry oxidation and whiskey sweetness. Bottle Cellars, 6039 Telegraph Road, Oakville, 314.846.5100, bottlecellars.com

SCHLAFLY CHRISTMAS ALE (8 percent ABV) is sweet, spice and everything nice in true wassail form. Sweet caramel malt, honey and bright orange peel balance the spicy ginger, cardamom and clove that linger after each sip. Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; Schlafly

4 HANDS BONAFIDE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT (9 percent ABV) is bold and aggressive. Bittersweet chocolate and roasted coffee dominate the palate while traces of vanilla soften the finish. 4 Hands Brewery, 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

FOUNDERS BREAKFAST STOUT (8.3 percent ABV) is rich and chewy. Layers of coffee and chocolate embrace the palate with this full-bodied, meal-worthy brew. Saint Louis Hop Shop, 2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com

DESCHUTES JUBELALE WINTER WARMER (6.7 percent ABV) is robust and warming. Notes of toffee, chicory and dark fruit give way to a slightly bitter finish. Randall’s Wine and Spirits, all locations, shoprandalls.com

GREAT DIVIDE HIBERNATION OLD ALE (8.7 percent ABV) is hearty and dryhopped. Body-warming malt and booze up front balance with the bitter hops and give way to nuances of wood and stone fruit on the back. Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

VEGETIZE IT

Not-Fish Tacos BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

ofu gets a bad rap. Haters like me mock its bland taste and rubbery, slimy texture. But since tofu is a great source of inexpensive plant-based protein, I wanted to give it a second chance. And I found its mild flavor is actually an asset, making tofu a blank canvas that soaks up seasoning and plays well with any cuisine. However, I still had a hard time improving its texture, so I hopped on board the Chop Shop STL food truck to learn how chef-owner Eliott Harris makes his crave-inducing crispy tofu bites. His method for making tofu thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delightfully crunchy on the outside, yet hot and melty on the inside is not a huge surprise: You have to fry it.

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First, Harris dredges his tofu in equal parts potato starch and dry tempura batter mix (think Japanese Bisquick), both of which are available in local Asian supermarkets. My research indicated that cornstarch and flour would also work, but Harris’ version yields a lighter, crunchier crust. Harris slings his tofu into a deep-fryer filled with neutral, high-smoke point oils like canola or soybean. Now, a fryer happens to be the only kitchen gadget I don’t own. Fortunately, a castiron Dutch oven filled with enough oil to cover the tofu did the trick. If you don’t have a hot oil thermometer, you can guestimate the temperature by sticking a wooden spoon handle into the oil. If tiny bubbles fizz up around the handle, you’re close to 350 degrees – the temperature Harris recommended. If your healthy heart is palpitating at the thought of frying such a wholesome food, rest assured that fried tofu tastes blissfully light and grease-free. With the texture puzzle solved, I needed to weave a dish around my new favorite protein nuggets. I could add the tofu to a Chop Shop STL-inspired Japanese entree, an Indian paneer dish or even a mock-Caesar salad. But I’m tired of sitting out Hynes family fish taco nights, so I decided to substitute fried tofu for our usual tilapia.

eaters, I also added a little Old Bay seasoning to my starch mix. We usually garnish our fish tacos with a cabbage slaw and spicy chipotle aioli (which is fancy food talk for zingy mayonnaise). Since the Japanese-inspired tempura batter was working so well, I borrowed another Asian staple, taking a tablespoon of Sriracha sauce and stirring it into vegan mayonnaise for Sriracha aioli to drizzle over the tofu. I also soaked some shredded red cabbage in a citrus-agave dressing to add a burst of color and layers of flavor to the dish. These crunchy, spicy not-fish tacos made a tofu not-hater out of me.

NOT-FISH TACOS 3 TO 4 SERVINGS 1 cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 2 tsp. ground cumin

2 12-oz. packages firm tofu ½ cup vegan mayonnaise such as Just Mayo 1 Tbsp. Sriracha 1 Tbsp. agave nectar 1 Tbsp. lime juice 1 pinch plus ¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided 2 cups thinly-sliced red cabbage ½ cup dry tempura batter mix ½ cup potato starch 2 Tbsp. Old Bay seasoning ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 6 cups canola oil 8 8-inch flour tortillas ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1 avocado peeled, pitted and sliced • In a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish, stir together 1 cup olive oil, the lemon juice, garlic and cumin until well combined. Cut the tofu crosswise into 8 ½-inch slices. Blot with paper towels, then place in the baking dish. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight. • In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and Sriracha until well combined, then set aside. In a medium bowl, stir together

•

the agave nectar, lime juice, remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt. Add the cabbage and toss to coat, then set aside. In a heavy, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the canola oil until the temperature reaches 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the dry tempura batter mix, potato starch, Old Bay seasoning, black pepper and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. In batches, remove the tofu pieces from the marinade, allowing excess to drip off, then dredge the tofu in the starch mixture to coat. Transfer several pieces of tofu to the hot oil. Fry until golden, about 2 minutes per side, then transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Heat the tortillas according to package directions. Place 2 pieces of tofu in each tortilla, drizzle Sriracha mayo on top, then divide the cabbage and cilantro among the tacos. Top with sliced avocado and serve immediately.

I boosted the flavor by marinating the tofu in a lemon-cumin-garlic bath. Give yourself at least an hour for the marinade to work its magic, although overnight is best. To appease my fish-

December 2015

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December 2015

MAKE THIS SALMON WITH RED CURRY SAUCE ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES

MAKE THIS Skip carry-out curry. Velvety red curry sauce doesn’t require much athome effort to earn its complex, rich flavor. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil. Whisk in 1 to 1½ tablespoons red curry paste and cook 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Whisk in 1 14-ounce can coconut milk, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 tablespoon fish sauce and the zest and juice of 1 lime. Increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. Place 4 5-ounce salmon fillets skin-side down on a foil-lined baking sheet, then sprinkle with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Bake 8 to 12 minutes, until the salmon is still slightly pink in the center. Then, remove the skin by sliding a thin spatula between the skin and the flesh, and transfer each fillet to a plate. Top the salmon with curry sauce and serve alone or with jasmine rice. – Dee Ryan

Red curry paste is available in most grocery stores. The spiciness varies, so be cautious when using a new brand. We like Mae Ploy ($3), available at Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five. Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.

December 2015

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leeks at pĂşblico

B E S T

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público restaurant of the year

URANTS Opening a restaurant isn’t easy. Each year, hundreds give it a shot – and not everyone succeeds. Some, however, aren’t just surviving; they’re killing it. In the last year, we ate our way through newly opened restaurants from Alton to Ballwin, compiling a list of places that serve the food and drinks we can’t get out of our heads. They bring something different and exciting to the scene – and they do it damn well. While technical excellence was a must, the service and ambiance also had to win us over. Office debates nearly came to fisticuffs, but at last we agreed on St. Louis’ 11 best new restaurants of 2015. Clear your schedule and book your reservations; you’ve got a lot of eating to do. BY HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE, MEERA NAGARAJAN, KRISTIN SCHULTZ AND ROSANNE TOROIAN

December 2015

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ALL PÚBLICO PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

público

Whole fish at Público

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December 2015

Though a few small plates are available, think of all the offerings as a build-your-own tasting menu. Try as many dishes as possible and encourage your dining companions to share. Be brave and order the baby octopus – even texture-phobes can get behind these tender little bites of intense umami flavor. Dishes that sound tame will surprise you. A simple order of leeks arrived as a work of art, decorated with bright roe and surrounded by crema that demanded to be licked from the plate. A more substantial whole fish (a market option meant to be shared between two or more guests) is fire-roasted, simple perfection.

From left, chef de cuisine Brad Bardon and chef-owner Mike Randolph

The world stops when you enter Público, stepping away from the controlled chaos of the Delmar Loop. Here, chefowner Mike Randolph invites you to luxuriate in the finer things through an innovative Mexican- and South Americaninspired menu unlike anything St. Louis has seen before.

credentials, Randolph has to be prepared to invest long-term in cooks. That’s no easy task in an industry where turnover can be swift and frequent. What’s made it possible at Público isn’t a curriculum or corporate training system, Randolph said. It’s his even-keeled chef de cuisine, Brad Bardon.

The kitchen and bar teams refer to Randolph as “Coach,” a title that goes far beyond his preservice pep talks. “You’re only as good as your team,” he said with an Eric Taylor gleam in his eye. This is not a platitude – the kitchen is structured to support and challenge its cooks as much as its diners. A cook who works hard at Público will go far in Randolph’s world. “I’m a firm believer in the fact that you can’t teach attitude,” he said. “If somebody has a good attitude, and they’re not turned into a rock star, then that’s my fault.”

“Brad’s just as cool as the other side of the pillow. I’ve never seen him get angry, certainly never seen him yell,” Randolph said. “He gets along with people. The servers love him; the cooks love him. He’s a dream come true.”

When enthusiasm to learn can outweigh culinary school December 2015

The yin and yang of their creative partnership shapes Público’s entire menu. “Brad was extremely conservative, and I was about as far on the opposite end of that spectrum as you can possibly be,” Randolph said. “So he was here,” – Randolph stretched out his right arm – “and I was here.” He extended his left arm, then brought both hands together. “And Público

is here, in the middle. … It’s no longer Brad’s food or my food. It’s Público food.”

The esteemed bar program headed by bar manager Nick Digiovani will encourage you to share as well, since it’s almost impossible to choose just one inventive cocktail. Classics like El Diablo (Espolón Blanco tequila, lime, cassis and ginger beer) are offered alongside a menu of peculiar house creations. Try the Windy City Mezcalero for a strange, smoky herbal drink made with Del Maguey mezcal, Besk (a Swedish wormwood liqueur) and sugar.

And just what is Público food? Imaginative, yet tight and reliable, the distinctive menu offers reassuring familiar dishes, like tacos and guacamole arepas. But these serve as an approachable entry into Randolph and Bardon’s world rather than an alternative to adventurous dining. “We have no interest in being a strip-mall Mexican restaurant or just a taco place,” Randolph said. “Tacos are a part of what we do, but they don’t by any stretch of the imagination define us.”

Drinks and dishes rotate aggressively. If you haven’t dined at Público since doors opened in March, you won’t recognize most items currently available. Some favorites are gone in a flash, like the delicate cobia ceviche, served in a slurpable tomato water. Público’s heavy rotation is due both to seasonality constraints and Randolph’s commitment to keep his cooks on their toes. “Monotonous things lend themselves potentially to complacency in the kitchen, so we try to change things up,” he said.

Público is defined by technique rather than a signature dish. The roaring wood-fire oven visible in the open kitchen touches almost everything on the menu. Cooking with something as temperamental as fire is notoriously difficult, and Público’s consistency showcases Randolph’s masterful execution.

Servers hate it, joking that the moment a dish becomes popular, Randolph pulls it from the menu. “And it is kind of the truth,” Randolph admitted. “I like to keep my cooks fresh, keep them trying new stuff.” If Randolph and Bardon are behind it, we’ll happily keep trying the new stuff, too. – H.H.

THE BEST NEW RESTAURANTS OF 2015

Público, 6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.833.5780, publicostl.com Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com Southern, 3108 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.531.4668, stlsouthern.com Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen, 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, randolfis.com Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com J. McArthur’s An American Kitchen, 3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463, jmcarthurs.com Living Room, 2808 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.899.0173, arthousecoffees.com Private Kitchen, 8106 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.989.0283, Facebook: Private Kitchen STL Beast Craft BBQ, 20 S. Belt West, Belleville, 618.257.9000, beastcraftbbq.com Retreat Gastropub, 2 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497, retreatgastropub.com Dalie’s Smokehouse, 2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park, 636.529.1898, daliessmokehouse.com

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From left, chef Brian Lagerstrom and bakerfounder Ted Wilson prepare the day's bread. Above: The bar at Union Loafers

Union loafers

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The key to Loafers’ loaves is fermentation. The bread is naturally leavened, meaning the bakery doesn’t just avoid chemical compounds like baking soda. In all but two of Loafers’ breads, it means avoiding even massproduced yeast. Instead, Wilson starts with just flour and water, and carefully

cultivates the yeast that occurs naturally, watching over it as it ferments – think of sourdough starters or Amish friendship breads. Aside from the incredible flavor this process produces, Wilson is objectively fascinated by fermentation. The fact that he can start with water and flour and end up with bread makes him giddy. “In some way, it takes responsibility off your shoulders. Your role is to set up this environment … you can only be in control of so much,” Wilson said. “Then you just have to react, and you have to pay attention.” This patient relationship with food requires a rare mix of fanatical curiosity and dogged perseverance

– qualities reflected in Loafers’ entire team. Some, like chef Brian Lagerstrom (Sauce Ones to Watch class of 2015), left the fine dining world for Loafers to explore the freedom fermentation allows. Lagerstrom, who dabbled at Niche with house bread and cheese programs (not to mention house-made soy sauce, vinegars and fish sauce), was given free reign at Loafers to get as funky as he liked. No condiment is too small for serious attention; house-made mustard and pickles grace the Cuban-like roasted pork sandwich, and house-smoked beets are piled high with sauerkraut and creamy Thousand Island dressing. Even the rotating nut butter and jam

sandwich is taken seriously. Wilson and crew roast and grind the nuts, cook down the berries and churn that creamy butter. Romantic slow food notions could easily stall when confronted with labor-intensive reality, but not at Loafers. “The work really brings us joy,” Wilson said. “(We have a) great excitement and love for these transformations that happen under our watch. … They’re little science experiments that taste good.” Union Loafers is waiting on a liquor license to extend service into evening hours and debut a bread-centric bar menu. We’re confident it, too, will be worth the wait. – H.H.

December 2015

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

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Three years after Sauce published a story on how Ted Wilson was going to change the St. Louis bread scene with a new bakery, we can finally report that we were right. Wilson and co-founder Sean Netzer opened Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery in Botanical Heights at the end of September, a lunch spot serving sandwiches on bread unrivaled in the city.

Chicken, pickled beets, greens and mac-n-

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Rick Lewis ate a lot of hot chicken for you. The chef-owner of Southern, which opened its doors this June next to Pappy’s Smokehouse in Midtown, racked up the miles on his F-250 cruising to Nashville to research hot chicken royalty like Prince’s and Hattie B’s. Southern features their influence, along with a few barbecue techniques from the pros at Ubons in Mississippi, plus Lewis’ own tricks. Here, the path to Southern’s hot chicken:

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Back off, buttermilk. Southern chicken marinates barbecuestyle in a tub of beer, lemon juice, rice wine vinegar and cayenne pepper. The barbecue method continues with a dry rub of Lewis’ house-made riff on Old Bay, habanero powder, garlic, salt and sugar, building in layers of heat.

Chef-owner Rick Lewis

December 2015

Dredge, baby, dredge. Chicken is tossed in a mixture of two different starches and flour (This, Lewis insisted, is the key to breading that doesn’t slide off the entire piece after the first bite), plus more seasoning.

Fried and true. Chicken swims in corn oil until cooked through, then is sprinkled with a seasoning salt that Lewis called “magic dust.” Finally, the hot version of the fried bird takes another plunge in a vat of hot corn oil – this one glistening with cayenne and habanero peppers. Not a one-trick bird. What makes Southern a force to be reckoned with is Lewis’ care for the whole meal. Greens rich with drippings from Pappy’s smoked chicken, flaky biscuits and creamy mac-n-cheese offer respite before you venture back to the merciless goodness of that crispy chicken. Despite his meticulous research, the chicken’s punishingyet-addictive heat and perfect crunch, Lewis is still at a loss to explain Southern’s overwhelming popularity. “I have no idea,” he said, grinning. “You want to know what everybody says? They just go, ‘There’s just not any chicken that’s this good around here.’ That’s what they tell me.” We couldn’t put it better ourselves. – C.K.

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Randolfi's italian kitchen

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Neapolitan-style pizzas come out of the same roaring woodfired pizza oven as in The Good Pie days, but at Randolfi’s, they

work well as a sharable starter. Follow the rustic pizza with a sophisticated beef tartare, a silky appetizer with delicate meaty flavor crowned with a luxurious semi-soft cured egg yolk. Randolph’s passion and attention to detail carry through to the house-made pasta dishes and entrees. Hand-cut pappardelle, toothsome buccatini and more are made with precision and prepared perfectly al dente. Fluffy gnocchi is served as a bed for rich duck confit with briny olives and orange segments for a balanced dish of ricocheting, complementary flavors. Deceivingly simple in its presentation, a pork and apples entree was texturally delightful:

pork loin served with soft caramelized apples and tendercrisp celery. The bar program holds its own against the creative fare. Indulge your curiosity with any of bar manager Jeffrey Moll’s inspired seasonal cocktails. Sip on the No. 37¾, a bourbon and ginger liqueur libation delivered with an applewood smoke cap roiling atop a blackberry garnish. Don’t be selfish when your order arrives; the variety and creativity of Randolfi’s menu begs to be shared with friends and family. Then take your time; linger and enjoy the food, company and la bella vita in a space as intimate as Nonna’s kitchen. – K.S.

December 2015

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

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Chef-owner Mike Randolph welcomes St. Louisans into his family at his newest restaurant venture, Randolfi’s. The slight spelling alteration honors his Italian heritage; the family’s name was changed when they immigrated to the U.S. in the early 1800s. The space that once housed The Good Pie is now festooned with red-and-white checked tablecloths and photos of generations of Randolphs. It has all the semblance of an old-school Italian-American ristorante, but you won’t find fettuccine Alfredo or garlic bread on this Italian menu.

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reeds american table Unfold the menu at Reeds American Table, and you see names before you see dishes. These are the people chef-owner Matthew Daughaday wants you to know before digging in – the ones who braise that succulent beef cheek, concoct house tinctures and know exactly how long the kitchen worked to perfect the lamb sugo.

Top: panna cotta; Bottom: From left, chef-owner Matthew Daughaday, office manager Andrew Moore, bar manager Andrey Ivanov, executive pastry chef Summer Wright and general manager Nicki Ball

Traditional restaurants operate under a relatively strict hierarchy: An executive chef directs a staff that operates in descending order from sous chef on down to line cook and dishwasher. The bar may have some interaction with the kitchen, but not much. Servers live at the front of the house, balancing trays and scribbling orders. It’s a time-honored method that’s produced top-notch results – but Daughaday is doing things a bit differently. The former executive chef of Taste announced he was leaving the swanky CWE cocktail bar last December. Public anticipation built over the following months as Daughaday assembled a crack

team to aid his first solo enterprise: sommelier Andrey Ivanov as beverage director, Summer Wright as executive pastry chef, Nicki Ball as general manager and Andrew Moore as office manager. “We all try to be people who are very open about the learning process,” Daughaday said. “(We’re) creating a mentoring environment where you’re teaching people things and pushing them to be better, but not in an overbearing, demanding (manner).” The result is a delightfully collaborative and approachable menu, resulting in dishes like the decadent chicken potpie and silky panna cotta. Pastry chefs craft syrups and tonics for the bar team. Extensive beer and wine lists include charts, maps and graphs; the house coffee program details brewing methods.

PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Most important, Daughday said, is that everyone from the executive sous chef to the busser to the bartender feels a sense of ownership. “I always use the analogy of a baseball team,” he said. “Everybody has their positions and the expectation is that you play your position, but we all know that it supports the greater goal.” – C.K.

Lamb sugo at Reeds American Table. Find out what critic Michael Renner has to say about it in his review on p. 13.

December 2015

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THE FIVE BEST DISHES OF THE YEAR by michael renner

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2 PÚBLICO Whole, headon yellowtail snapper was stuffed with scallion, bay leaf, jalapeno, lemon and lime and roasted in the wood-fueled oven. It comes with house-made tortillas so you can share with the table. Don’t.

3 REEDS AMERICAN TABLE Thick and meaty lamb sugo, amped up with orange zest and mint, sticks to ruffled creste rigate noodles and to your ribs on a cold night.

4 SOUTHERN Four-alarm, “cluckin’ hot” Nashvillestyle chicken triggers all the pain and pleasure centers with fire and a hint of sweetness. All other fried chicken is milquetoast in comparison.

5 PRIVATE KITCHEN Nibble around the edges of the steamed pork dumplings, sip the rich stock and plot how to get more.

j. mcarthur's

an american kitchen Removed from the glittery lights of the Central West End and Clayton, friendly J. McArthur’s An American Kitchen is a neighborhood restaurant emphasizing local, seasonal ingredients. The warm, comfortable interior will make you feel like a regular on the first visit, and once patio weather returns, you may never leave. Chef-owner Ben McArthur’s menu reads like a geography textbook of local farms: pork from Geisert Farms, potatoes from Harvey Yoder Family Farm, pea shoots from Claverach Farm and locally foraged greens from Double Star Farms. But McArthur isn’t just hopping on a trend or trying a gimmick. Chef can cook. The seared diver scallops are consistently cooked to tender, buttery perfection. These sea jewels sit in a dreamy smoked bisque that rotates with the seasons. This summer it was corn, but now the dish is served with smoked butternut squash bisque, Brussels sprouts, tender pieces of confit butternut squash, Geisert Farms bacon and a sage-butternut squash seed

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Seared diver scallops at J. Mcarthur's An American Kitchen

pesto. Even the street tacos are no slackers, featuring rich, braised pork belly, Double Star cabbage slaw, crumbly cotija cheese and guacamole. This summer’s accompanying chimichurri was recently replaced by a smoked chile and sorghum barbecue sauce. Dishes turn over or change due to availability of seasonal ingredients – a sign of true farm-to-table commitment. If you see a

ravioli special, snap it up because McArthur knows his way around house-made pasta. And snap fast, as menu items can vary week-to-week, not just season-to-season. “We pretty much get our produce lists Monday and Tuesday,” McArthur said. “And that’s how we know what we’re going to do for the rest of the week.” Why mess with all our favorite dishes chasing

local farm produce? “It’s better food; it tastes better,” McArthur said. It could be as simple as that, but for the proud owner of a family restaurant, it’s also about relationships. “The relationships we’re going to make (at local farms) will last a lot longer than with commercial suppliers,” he said. As patrons, we look forward to a long-lasting relationship with McArthur’s, too. – K.S. December 2015

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

J. MCARTHUR’S Castiron skillet-seared diver scallops are good enough. Float them in smoked corn bisque with Brussels sprouts, pea shoots and bacon, and you have the best dish of the year.

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living room From left, chef Nate Larson and cafe manager Jordan Howe

drinks anywhere else. Housemade syrups offer a hint of sweetness and rich flavors that complement Art House espresso. Try the Smooth Criminal, a fragrant, lightly sweet cortado flavored with lavender, vanilla and expressed orange peel. THE BAKERY Larson is a self-taught baker – and he’s a complete natural. We’re talking more than cookies, too (though it’s worth getting the shortbread). Living Room tackles buttery croissants, scones worthy of England, oldfashioned flaky biscuits and a rotating lineup of cakes. Larson even bakes his own bread for sandwiches. And speaking of those sandwiches…

PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Tucked away on Sutton Boulevard next to Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions sits Living Room, a neighborhood gem serving up simple, impeccable breakfast and lunch since December 2014. Living Room grew from Art House Coffees, a wholesale roaster started by Barry Larson more than five years ago. His son, Nate Larson, December 2015

Biscuit breakfast at Living Room

now heads the kitchen at Living Room. Here, three reasons why this little daytime cafe is worth your attention: THE COFFEE The hand-brewed espresso drinks, pour-overs and coldbrew offerings are good, but you won’t find Living Room’s seasonal, flavored coffee

THE FOOD Despite the bakery and many house-made items like yogurt, aioli, pickles and jams, Larson insisted he isn’t trying to complicate things. “There’s nothing conceptual about the menu,” said Larson. “I want to prepare the best version of what I can make, simple and generous.” That means great sandwiches, breakfast plates and specialty items like savory bread pudding. The Hot Shroom sandwich entices with melty Gruyere, white mushrooms and caramelized onions. A surprise favorite was the biscuit breakfast, featuring a perfect soft-boiled egg draped in melted white cheddar over a wingspan of Boylard’s bacon, served with a rich, cheesy biscuit. Living Room also offers rotating bento boxes for the occasional snack attack. Munch on an assortment including Bolyard’s signature andouille, white cheddar, grapes, house-made candied almonds and a shortbread cookie. – R.T.

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A meal at Private Kitchen is equal parts adventure and leisure. Not only is a table at this University City restaurant by reservation only, but chef-owner Lawrence Chen also encourages diners to place their orders for authentic Shanghai cuisine in advance. Head to Private Kitchen’s Facebook page and click through photos of the menu and specific dishes (like the live crab with ginger, pictured below), then make your selection and place your order via email or phone. Consider this a quest, your dragon to slay before entering

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private kitchen

an enchanted dining kingdom. Your efforts will be well rewarded when that dragon is served to you as spicy lobster with ginger sauce. No, seriously, Chen actually carves the lobster to look like a dragon.

soup dumplings) arrive plump in a bamboo steamer basket, and a generous mound of sweet-savory kung pao chicken arrives strewn attractively across the plate with edible flower garnishes.

Chen’s fanciful plating of flavorful dishes doesn’t stop there. He breaks down a whole crab for your convenience, but then reassembles the body piled atop the legs to stare (perhaps a bit accusatorily) at you, glossy with ginger sauce. Tender, savory xiao long bao (traditional

This much advanced planning for a night out may seem inconvenient, but by the time Chen’s wife, Emily Chen, shows you to your table, your work is done. Sit back and enjoy the tranquil little space as your food arrives unbidden and exactly as you wanted it. – H.H.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

From left, chef-owner Lawrence and Emily Chen

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December 2015

The burnt ends sandwich with Brussels sprouts

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PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

beast craft bbq

The road to Beast Craft BBQ is long. Missourians must drive over the Mississippi River into Belleville, then hunt among fast food chains for a former Hi-Ho diner. If you smell intoxicating hickory smoke, congratulations: You’ve found the Beast.

joint make. Sandusky, who opened Beast in December 2014, offers exceptional sides like classic pit beans, but fresh veggie sides provide an unexpected respite from the heavier fare – like roasted Brussels sprouts studded with pork belly and garlicky sauteed kale.

And hopefully you left early – it’s not unusual for popular items to sell out by 7 p.m., according to owner-pitmaster David Sandusky. If you want to get your hands on a 1½ inchthick pork steak or fork-tender burnt ends, you’ve got to plan ahead, people. Step up to the counter and peruse a daily list of offerings, all handwritten on butcher paper. Even if the heavy hitters are out, staples like ribs (with a burnished brown crust, deep pink smoke ring and just enough cling) or smoky half-chickens (moist long after you admit defeat) are sure to satisfy. Meals are served on aluminum trays draped with a few fresh tortillas – perfect for sharing, swiping up housemade sauces or constructing an epic burnt end taco.

Choose from dozens of brews to go with your barbecue. Sandusky stocks his bottled beer list with St. Louis staples like Urban Chestnut and several Southern Illinois-based options like Big Muddy Brewing out of Murphysboro.

But meat alone does not a great barbecue December 2015

Sandusky spent years in the fine dining world before hitting the barbecue pits, amassing skills reflected in his determination to provide not only killer meat, but also a stellar meal. “I wanted to get into something more soulful and familyoriented, more fun to eat,” he said. “I just try to bring the standards that were hammered into me by some of the best chefs in the city … to something more home-grown.” So gas up the car and bring your appetite – the Beast is calling. – C.K.

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retreat gastropub 42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

curacao, ancho chile liqueur and mole bitters. And forget sweet dessert wine; Wiggins hooks diners up with a selection of aged rums for sipping after dinner. Not to be outshone by the bar program, Retreat’s kitchen does fresh comfort fare right. The menu is solid straight through dessert (Order the decadent bread pudding, which swims in caramel sauce.). Crispy, flavorful flatbreads and fried fingerling potato poutine served with a rich mushroom gravy are

The Farmhouse Burger at Retreat; from left, chef Michael Friedman and owner Travis Howard small plate standouts. Don’t miss the addictive Farmhouse Burger with two smashed beef patties topped with cheese sauce, candied bacon and an over-easy egg. But be warned:

Repeat visits for this brinner burger will occur, and the congenial staff may comment on the love you and Farmhouse Burger seem to share. You are not alone. – H.H.

December 2015

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

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Retreat Gastropub in the Central West End is our getaway of choice these days. Owner Travis Howard opened the corner bar in October to serve as an outdoorsinspired refuge, day or night. Pull up a stool at the poured concrete bar or get comfortable on a handmade cedar bench and sip a creative house cocktail from bar manager Tim Wiggins, who is reason enough for a visit. He’s the mind behind such drinks as the smoky-sweet Oaxaca Flocka Flame, made with Vida mezcal, blanco tequila, lime juice, passion fruit puree,

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dalie's smokehouse

The newest installment of the Mike Emerson-Skip Steele family of barbecue restaurants has some unexpected draws. We expect delicious pulled pork and ribs from the co-owner of Pappy’s Smokehouse and Bogart’s Smokehouse, but here are six exceptional things that took us by surprise – and kept us wanting more – at Dalie’s Smokehouse: The Cuban sandwich. Shaved ham and Pappy’s pulled pork are complemented by gooey Swiss cheese and a layer of heat from chipotle mustard on ciabatta, while the house-made Fire and Ice Pickles bring a hit of acidity that cuts through the rich meat. The Ultimate Reuben. Beef and pork pastrami are piled on grilled marble rye for a monstrous, meaty sandwich topped with Thousand Island dressing, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. The Hushpuppies. So often dense and dry, Dalie’s hushpuppies have a light, crisp exterior and an almost cake-like interior studded with bits of jalapeno, green onion and fresh corn. The Mac-n-Cheese. This is the first Emerson-Steele barbecue joint to offer a side of mac-n-cheese, and we’re so glad it does. Elbow noodles luxuriate in a creamy cheese sauce with just a touch of heat and a crunchy bacon-breadcrumb topping.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

The Fried Pickles. What’s better than the Fire and Ice Pickles? Deep-fried Fire and Ice Pickles.

The Cuban sandwich at Dalie's

The staff. From the busboy to the cook to the server, Dalie’s employees are unfailingly kind, exuding the same charm as their boss. Is an Emerson likeability test required before hiring? It’s entirely plausible. – M.N.

On this month’s Sound Bites, Sauce art director Meera Nagarajan and managing editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss Sauce’s best new restaurants of 2015 and how these 11 eateries earned the title. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, Dec. 11 at noon and 10 p.m. December 2015

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stuff to do:

DECEMBER BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

The Gingerbread House Experience Dec. 1 to 25 – 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., River City Casino, 777 River City Casino Blvd., Lemay, 314.388.7623; Ameristar Casino, 1 Ameristar Blvd., St. Charles, 636.940.4454, ameristar.com Call and make your reservation to dine in one of two lifesize gingerbread houses with five of your closest friends. Order a special three-course holiday menu of soup or salad, ham or chicken breast and pumpkin or pecan pie. Diners can also dig into a la carte dishes ordered from the casinos’ restaurants. Reservation proceeds benefit the Center for Hearing & Speech.

Grinchmas Dec. 5 – 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Ritz Park, 3147-3149 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.5750, southgrand.org His heart has grown three sizes, and now the Grinch will spread cheer on South Grand at the neighborhood’s Grinchmas. Bring a toy to donate and have your picture taken with the classic holiday character, then show that photo to participating businesses to receive specials like 25 percent off your bill at Lulu’s Local Eatery and 20 percent off yogurt at Tower Grove Creamery. All photo proceeds benefit Shriners Hospitals for Children.

Teddy Bear Tea Dec. 5 and 6; Dec. 12 and 13; Dec. 19 and 20 – 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., The Ritz-Carlton, 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.719.1433, ritzcarlton.com/stlouis Steal some quality time

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with your favorite tyke at The Ritz-Carlton’s Teddy Bear Tea at the Lobby Lounge. Enjoy cookie decorating, hot tea and hot chocolate, tea sandwiches, face painting and more. Bring a new teddy bear to brighten the holidays of children served through the Friends of Kids with Cancer.

Kristkindl Markt Dec. 5 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Dec. 6 – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Stone Hill Winery, 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, 573.486.2221, stonehillwinery.com Stroll through a traditional German Christmas market, shop craft vendors and refuel with warm ham sandwiches on pretzel buns. Wash it down with a mug of mulled wine, then pick up bread from Hummingbird Kitchen, sausages from Swiss Meat & Sausage and honey from Honeysuckle Acres.

Family Hanukkah Party Dec. 7 – 4:15 to 5 p.m. Marilyn Fox Building, The J, 16801 Baxter Road, Chesterfield, 314.442.3454, jccstl.org Celebrate the Festival of Lights. Families of all faiths are welcome to help light the sculptural menorah outside The J in Chesterfield. Then head inside for stories, songs and crafts. Take home a kosher sufganiyot – a traditional jelly doughnut that symbolizes the miracle of burning oil lamps in the temple. Reservations are encouraged. December 2015

Lafayette Square Holiday Parlor Tour Dec. 13 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Park House, Mississippi and Lafayette avenues, St. Louis, lafayettesquare.org Step into the parlor and the holiday season. Eleven of Lafayette Square’s finest Victorian-inspired homes will open their doors on this year’s self-guided tour. Stop along the way for a bite of brunch at Sqwires, Vin de Set or Square One Brewery. Then take a carriage ride or see Santa before stopping by the Kern Pavilion in Lafayette Park for hot cocoa and cookies. Tickets available online or at the door.