Sauce Magazine // December 2018

the pork chop at louie, the best new restaurant of 2018, p. 32

B ES T N E W R E S TauR A N ts

L O U I E , B I L L I E - J E A N , Y E L L O W B E L LY, S AVA G E R E S TA U R A N T, T H E C L O V E R A N D T H E B E E , F R A N K LY O N C H E R O K E E , C I N D E R H O U S E , T H E B E N E V O L E N T K I N G , K N E A D B A K E H O U S E & P R O V I S I O N S

December 2018 ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

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DECEMBER 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 12 What’s your favorite new restaurant?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I loved everything at Squatter's Café. Sad to see it go, but super excited for Bulrush, Rob Connoley's new venture.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Louie!

Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Monica Obradovic, Sophie Tegenu, Jane Thier I really like Bakers & Hale.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2018 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 December 2018

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contents DECEMBER 2018

editors' picks 11

E AT THIS Whiplash cake

last course 48

STUFF TO DO by monica obradovic and jane thier

by heather hughes

50

12

Suman Shekar

FIX ATIO N S

WHAT I D O by catherine klene

8 things we’re obsessed with right now

by lauren healey, heather hughes and meera nagarajan

reviews 19

N E W AN D N OTABLE VP Square

features 32

BEST NEW RE STAU R A NT S by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell

by michael renner 22

LUNCH RUSH The Wood Shack Soulard

by matt berkley 25

NIGHTLIFE Lulu's Pingpong Bar

COVER DETAILS Best New Restaurants A pork chop on a bed of shishito peppers at Louie, our best new restaurant of the year. Find out the other eight restaurants that topped our list on p. 32.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

by stephanie zeilenga

dine & drink

hot and sour soup at vp square, p. 19

27

A SE AT AT TH E BA R

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore 28

Tune into 90.7 FM KWMU for this month’s Sound Bites, when art director Meera Nagarajan and managing editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss Sauce’s best new restaurants of 2018.

ELIXIR Why you should drink Jamaican rum

by matt sorrell December 2018

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editors' picks

EAT THIS The WHIPLASH CAKE at SUCROSE is so good it converted white chocolate haters at Sauce into lovers.

Crunchy toffee bits suspended in white chocolate serve as foundation for a perfect circle of light brown butter cake made with almond flour and ground pecans. The richness of the toffee and nuts complements the sweet, PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

creamy white chocolate, which also tops the cake, along with dollops of brown butter buttercream for a perfect, savory-sweet ending to any holiday meal.

SUCROSE, 700 S. FIFTH ST., ST. CHARLES, 636.410.8505, SUCROSEBAKERYSTL.COM December 2018

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Fixations From flavored salts to a cultured butter, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

2012 Aliança Dão This juicy red from Portugal is fullbodied with hints of spice and a soft finish characteristic of aged wines. It tastes more expensive than its price tag. $15. Schnucks, 10275 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.991.0510, schnucks.com

The Passport Program This booklet is helping us get through winter with two-for-one drinks at nearly 50 locations around St. Louis – from cappuccinos at The Mud House to glasses of wine at Farmhaus. Collect stamps and free drinks until April 15. $20. The Passport Program, thepassportprogram.com

Nathaniel Reid Flavored Salts We can’t wait to top caramels with this chocolate sel gris, sprinkle the kalamata olive-rosemary sea salt over an eggplant dish and make generous use of the chili-lime salt with popcorn. $9.

Nathaniel Reid Bakery, 11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com

Trader Joe’s Garlic Spread-Dip This creamy, pungent vegan spread enhances almost any savory dish, from pasta to tacos. Get creative, but use sparingly – it goes a long way. $3. Trader Joe’s, multiple locations, traderjoes.com

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Larder & Cupboard Cultured Butter The higher fat content from being cultured makes this silkier than other butters. It’s so rich it tastes like bacon when browned.

Six ounces: $6. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

HAY small glasses All the chicest spots in Copenhagen serve water in these glasses.

Are they ramekins? Plates with a deep edge? Cups? Who cares? $5. Nannie Inez, nannieinez.com

Film: ‘The Lunchbox’ A love story begins after one mistaken lunch delivery in Mumbai unites two people through delicious food. Order some Indian takeout, and prepare to get into your feelings. Buy: $13; rent: $4.

Amazon, samg.bz/TheLunchbox

Sump travel mug The Sump travel mug is compact and cute. It also keeps your coffee hot without the metallic finish common in other thermoses. $25. Sump Coffee, 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

dishes at vp square

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

VP

square

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JONSHON

On a recent evening at V P S q ua r e , four diners got up to leave right after they were seated, settled and served water. Evidently, Cafe Mochi was packed, and they had come over hoping for something similar. It’s a reasonable assumption considering the Pham siblings – Duncan, Mina and Victor – operate both restaurants, just a couple blocks apart down South Grand Boulevard. But where Cafe Mochi is Japanese-centric, VP Square is all over the East-Southeast Asia map.

new and notable VP SQUARE p. 19 / lunch rush THE WOOD SHACK SOULARD p. 22 / nightlife LULU'S PINGPONG BAR p. 25 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

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the crunch of the fried wonton strips sprinkled atop.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

What inspired such a broad, diverse menu? In the post-war Vietnam of the early 1980s, the Phams were among thousands who fled the country’s brutal Communist regime. They lived as refugees in Thailand and the Philippines before settling in the U.S., and Duncan cooked through it all – at home in Vietnam, in refugee camps, then in U.S. restaurants.

One after the other, the three siblings settled in St. Louis and gained success with Cafe Mochi. At VP Square, which opened in March, the Phams hope for similar success with Duncan in the kitchen, Mina running the fronts of both operations and the restaurant’s namesake, Victor, handling the business side. the dining room at vp square

Had they not been so dead set on sushi, those four diners could have eaten their way through myriad culinary cultures – from Chinese hot pot and Korean bibimbap to Japanese ramen and Vietnamese banh mi. Chef Duncan Pham handles them all with deftness.

Straightforward fare like pork chops, chicken wings, salmon and game hen are also deliciously elevated with Pham’s imprint.

A thick, chargrilled bone-in pork chop, for instance, is about as American as it gets, but when marinated with lemongrass, garlic and fish sauce, it becomes the seductive Vietnamese classic

AT A GLANCE VP

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thit heo nuong xa, served here with steamed rice, a fried egg and sweet, sour, savory nuoc cham dipping sauce. My only suggestion is to ask how customers like the chop cooked, since I like mine pinker than the well-cooked chop I got.

I’d call it the ultimate comfort food were it not for the crispy Cornish game hen on the menu: a leg quarter, half-breast and attached wing perfumed with the warm tones of Chinese five-spice powder and fried to crispy goldenness. Four bars of pan-fried coconut sticky rice provided a sweet starchiness. The little side of grilled chicken salad threw me at first, but it made surprising sense when I tasted its creamy savoriness against

Where 3611 Juniata St., St. Louis, 314.833.4838, Facebook: VP Square

Don’t Miss Dishes Crispy Cornish hen, bibimbap, hot and sour soup

That I’m praising fried rice in a review is a testament to Duncan’s magnificent version of the midweek takeout favorite meant to be eaten mindlessly in front of the television when you’re too damn tired to cook. (Just me?) There were bean sprouts and, of course, peas, carrots, onion and egg. But bacon, Chinese sausage, barbecue chicken and kimchi all added layer upon layer of spicy, meaty, funky complexity rarely found in takeout.

Also unparalleled: VP’s hot and sour soup, chock-full of bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, carrots and scallion in a thick, heady white pepperscented broth. The addition of shrimp and pork wontons made the appetizer more meal-like and the whole thing the best hot and sour soup I’ve had yet.

The unappetizingly named egg-encrusted shrimp wontons would also make a light

Vibe Gorgeous building full of natural light renovated with an eye toward modern decor.

meal. Here, those lovely, plump steamed wontons were wok-fried with eggs for a frittata-like dish of sweet shrimp and savory pork.

Praising the Korean bibimbap is easy – the marinated beef bulgogi was sweet and tender, the vegetables (spinach, onion, carrots, mushrooms) were sauteed but not mushy, the egg added silken creaminess and, most important, it was all cooked in a stone bowl, making the rice underneath satisfyingly crunchy.

Only a couple dishes on the long, diverse menu disappointed. I found the pineapple dipping sauce for the coconut shrimp (tails on, as it should be) too sweet to counter the natural sweetness of the coconut, and the peppercorn chicken wings lacked any real heat, despite being tossed in a hot wok with chili pepper and Sichuan peppercorn. The traditional Chinese way of chopping chicken crosswise through the bones may work on larger cuts, but with these wings it made it downright difficult to gnaw around the sharp, hacked edges to get to any meat.

VP Square is located on Juniata Street, just behind The King & I Thai restaurant, and occupies two floors of the building once home to a hair salon.

Inside the beautiful brick and white stonework façade, the inviting space is awash in natural light, with pale yellow walls and antler chandeliers in the main floor dining room and a contrasting bright and muted color palette in the upstairs dining room and bar.

Menus as extensive and varied as VP Square’s aren’t usually this solid. There are poke, ramen, hot pots, bubble tea and fruit smoothies to get through on return visits. Just don’t expect sushi – that’s up the street.

Entree Prices $11 to $17

When Tue. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun. – 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

the wood shack soulard

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

The Wood Shack Soulard’s base has been growing since chef-owner Chris Delgado first fired up the smoker in March 2017.

A neighborhood crowd can usually be found sipping frosty pints and munching on sandwiches at communal tables inside or hanging out at the open-air bar on the front patio. Behind the laid-back scene are Delgado’s inventive flavor combinations, unique blends of wood smoke and fierce attention to culinary detail.

BURLEY WICH This is the decadent sandwich to scarf down after a long night of boozing. A fried egg lets loose its yolk over seriously thick slices of fruit wood- and mesquite-smoked pork belly slathered in fiery achiote salsa. The flames are tempered by cotija cheese and charred tomatillo guacamole, and house-made blackeningseasoned pork rinds add serious crunch.

THREE CHEESY PIGS Three kinds of pig meat – smoked ham, bacon and

pulled pork – may sound like overkill, but your doubts disappear with the first blissful bite of my favorite menu item.

The juicy meat mingles with a house Champagne vinegar mustard and the earthy flavor of pickled okra. Nutty French Comté cheese melts to the crispy Companion bakery baguette that holds this porkstuffed masterpiece together.

creaminess, and the house peppercorn dressing brings just the right amount of mayo flavor for a turkey sandwich.

SMOKED POTATO SALAD

SOULARD PRIMER

RAGIN’ CAJUN

Delectable prime rib is rubbed simply with salt, pepper and turbinado sugar before getting lost in a haze of mulberry- and hickory-wood smoke for four hours. Thin slices tear easily in a crispy French roll smeared with a simple blue cheese and sour cream spread. Charred onions add a nice, earthy flavor, while the bone marrow aioli – white wine, shallots, garlic and marrow – throws in a gravy-rich goodness that soaks wonderfully into the bread.

A generous mound of blackened and slow mapleand pecan wood-smoked turkey is the centerpiece of the Ragin’ Cajun – The Wood Shack’s most popular sandwich for good reason. Tucked into a soft Companion French roll, the moist, smoke-kissed turkey is slathered with a rich but not overpowering bourbonbacon jam featuring notes of mustard, onion, coffee and chipotle. Avocado and havarti add layers of

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Fans of mayo-based potato salad will find a lot to love in this version, which uses potatoes that are parcooked then smoked for two hours.

Wood smoke explodes with each smooth bite, and the

creamy salad benefits from crunchy celery and spicy pepperoncini mixed in. The side complements the pork sandwiches especially well.

THE DOWNSIDE Other side dishes – the house coleslaw and the pasta salad with peppered bacon – aren’t worth ordering again. Though colorful, the slaw was a wet, bland glob.

The pasta salad lacked any of the savory punch you would expect from bacon.

Grab a bag of chips (or the aforementioned potato salad) instead.

The Wood Shack Soulard, 1862 S. 10th St., St. Louis, 314.833.4770, thewoodshacksoulard.com

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from left, basil whiskey sour and pineapple gin fizz

reviews NIGHTLIFE

onlookers can hang out and watch the action.

NIGHTLIFE

lulu's pingpong bar

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

T

here’s something about an easy, intimate night at a friend’s house that can’t be beat, and Lulu’s Pingpong Bar strikes that tone of comfortable, cool, relaxed fun.

The bar is an upstairs addition to Lulu’s Local Eatery, the South Grand

O R D E R T H I S December 2018

favorite for vegan comfort food. Previously an accounting office, it features three separate rooms – one with a small bar and two for pingpong. With warm, wooden floors, large windows with crisp, white trim and crown molding, it retains a homey vibe as charming as every Tower Grove house I’ve

The cocktail program matches the feel that you’re at a cool friend’s house party.

There are four trendy-butstraightforward signature drinks, well-executed but not overly complicated. The menu changes seasonally, but the overarching theme seems to be an embrace of Lulu’s Pingpong fresh, herbal Bar flavors. The 3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. basil whiskey Louis, 314.300.8215, sour, a luluslocaleatery.com peppery twist on the classic with basilagave syrup and fresh basil, is balanced but not too boozy – perfectly calibrated and not so sour you have to take microscopic sips. Similarly, the pineapple ginger fizz been in. Lulu’s decorated the has an herbal, effervescent space with restraint: Dark punch from pineapplegreen and grapefruit pink turmeric kombucha and a walls, eclectic artwork and hint of warmth from fresh simple industrial lighting ginger. achieve a fresh and modern look. It’s all very mellow, The benefit to this simple aided by low lighting and approach is that you don’t chill indie music playing in have to waste time waiting for the background. your drink instead of diving into a pingpong match. I The pingpong isn’t also appreciated the size of an afterthought. Each the cocktails. Unlike some room is large enough to play trendy spots, Lulu’s drinks comfortably, but not so big are generous enough that you that you’re constantly chasing can focus on hanging out the ball. The rooms also feature with your friends instead of a slim bar shelf affixed to one repeatedly shuttling back to wall and a few high stools so the bar for another round of

from left, loaded nachos and buffalo cauliflower bites

tiny, expensive concoctions.

There is also a small list of classic cocktails, rotating local seasonal drafts (the most recent list included 4 Hands Brewing Co. and 2nd Shift Brewing), cans of beer, house wines and Confluence Kombucha on tap.

Food from Lulu’s can be ordered and enjoyed upstairs, as well. Although the menu is strictly vegan, it’s approachable for all diners, with delicious meatless riffs on plenty of late-night bar favorites. The utterly addicting Buffalo cauliflower bites, served with ranch dipping sauce, may be even better than their chicken counterpart.

Another winner is the loaded nachos. Jackfruit carnitas takes the place of traditional pork, while the “cheese” is a house-made creamy butternut squash sauce. Piled high with salsa, green onions and other typical nacho toppings, it’s hard to stop taking just one more bite.

Although guests are welcome to play pingpong at any time during Lulu’s normal business hours, the upstairs bar pours drinks from 5 p.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday. It can get crowded on the weekends – you’ll want to get there early to snag a table, or be prepared to wait.

lulu’s pingpong bar has two tables available for games.

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dine

& drink porters are a reliably satisfying style for cool weather

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake The second spirit from the local makers of Big O Ginger Liqueur, Habondia Peach Brandy bursts with ripe peach, caramel, cinnamon, clove, allspice, vanilla, honey and white flowers. Savor it neat, on the rocks or in a Sazerac: In an ice-filled shaker, TED AND JAMIE stir 1 ounce Habondia, 1 ounce KILGORE rye, ½ ounce simple syrup, 4 USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart dashes Peychaud’s bitters and and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House 4 dashes Angostura bitters for 45 seconds. Strain into an absinthe-washed highball glass and garnish with a lemon twist. $75. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com December 2018

Jam Session 2017 by Syncopation, a brand from longtime local wine authority Mike Ward in partnership with Augusta’s Noboleis Vineyards, features notes of soft, GLENN BARDGETT juicy blackberry jelly, easy Member of the Missouri Wine tannins and a finish that will and Grape Board and wine last well into the new year. director at Annie Gunn’s The refreshing, unusual red will please even the pickiest palate and is delicious at room temperature or chilled. Drink on its own, with barbecue or after dinner with cheese or cheesecake. $16. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

For a warm, inviting atmosphere and some of the best beer in the city, head to Civil Life Brewing Co. This time of year, I belly up to the bar for an imperial pint of the rich, malt-forward EnglishKATIE HERRERA style porter (on cask!), a Area sales manager at reliably satisfying style for Revolution Brewing cool weather. This brew offers notes of bittersweet chocolate and roasted coffee with an underlying fruity yeast presence and succulent body. Imperial pint: $5. Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com

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SPIRITS

d u n d e r, muck and funk why you should drink jamaican rum B Y M AT T S O R R E L L Rum has elbowed its way past the bourbon juggernaut and back into the drinking public’s consciousness. And it should – it’s one of the most diverse spirit classifications, encompassing everything from stripped-down vodkaesque expressions to funky, heavy-duty flavor bombs best enjoyed fireside like a fine whiskey.

Drinkers who want to experience rum’s more intense aspects need look no further than the island of Jamaica. These tend to enjoy a longer fermentation, are traditionally distilled in pot stills and utilize age-old techniques like incorporating dunder (what’s left in the still after distillation) and muck (a microbial culture made up of the accumulated leavings from the distillation process) into the mix.

Try subbing a big Jamaican rum like Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum, recently reintroduced to the St. Louis market, for the bourbon in an Old-Fashioned, or use a split base of a lighter style and a heavier Jamaican rum to add complexity to classics like this daiquiri with the Jamaican Appleton Estate Rare Blend.

Split-Base Daiquiri 1½ oz. Caña Brava rum ½ oz. Appleton Estate Rare Blend 12-year rum ¾ oz. lime juice ¾ oz. simple syrup Lime wheel or twist, for garnish • In an ice-filled shaker, combine the rums, lime juice and simple syrup.

Shake vigorously, then strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with the lime wheel or twist.

BUY IT

Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum This super dark rum is surprisingly light on the palate since it blends heavy Jamaican pot still rum with light and extra-light versions. $30.

Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

The results are high-ester, palateexpanding concoctions that challenge any other spirit category for complexity and downright deliciousness. Jamaican rums are often employed by rum-blenders to add punch to their compositions, and because they tend to be so big

and burly, they usually play well in cocktails incorporating similarly robust ingredients like passion fruit, pineapple and baking spices.

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PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

THE 9 RESTAURANTS THAT WON OUR HEARTS THIS YEAR

BY HE AT HE R HUGHE S , C AT HE RINE K L E NE , ME E R A N A G A R A J A N & M AT T S ORRE L L

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THE MARGHERITA PIZZA AT LOUIE, THE BEST NEW RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

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LOUIE

No accounting of superlatives conveys the feeling; no equation can objectively explain it. So, if we say the quality of food and service, the design and atmosphere of Louie are impeccable, elegant, ingeniously calibrated, you might nod politely.

To know love, you must experience love.

Matt McGuire knows what we mean. The owner of our 2018 Best New Restaurant has loved the industry since he started working in it 20-plus years ago.

From the short, slowly growing menu to the no standing-room rule around the bar, Louie is the culmination of what he’s learned.

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Design and food are important, of course, and Louie excels in both categories. It feels current – moody, floral wallpaper, a wood-fired pizza oven and a back bar made of old post boxes filled with flawless Italian wines – without being too trendy.

“I love Italian food and wine – deeply – because of its simplicity and its adherence to

quality,” McGuire said, explaining the tilt of the menu, which also includes American staples like the moist, crispy-skinned Platonic ideal of roast chicken and the massive, tender pork chop over shishito peppers. The ravioli rotates to incarnate each season (currently with brown butter-laced sweet potato), and the broccolini pizza is a somersault of flavor,

rocketing from base vegetal to a burst of lemon, from grounding ricotta to upbeat chili overtones on a crispy, chewy, tender crust.

But McGuire reduced the obvious effort that went into building this place and menu to a “blah, blah, blah,” before concluding, “Nothing matters unless the people are good. The people are everything.”

December 2018

PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

LOVE ISN’T EASY TO QUANTIFY.

H E P R E F E R S T H E A N A L O GY O F A N ACT I N G T RO U P E to the common parlance of team or family. It’s more professional, more suited to restaurant personalities.

The communal trust among the staff would be recognizable on any improv stage. “There’s the opening night; there’s the original cast that everybody talks about – that’s not true, but we

makes Louie different than other restaurants with talented, high-level staff – the indefinable thing that makes you feel good walking out, even if you felt bad walking in.

all say it,” he said. “To me, that’s the fun part.

Building that team and that culture is something I think about all the time.”

McGuire said he needed head chef Sean Turner, server Jordan Vanzandt and bartender Rosie Ruiz to open Louie, but he wasn’t just talking about their well-honed skills. He was trying to express what

“There is a grace about labor and a grace that certain people have about caretaking,” he said.

“They just give it. They give of themselves while they’re in the moment.”

opposite page: from left, louie cooks alex herman, chris krzysik and mike “noodles” mcmanus enjoy a family meal before service.

FOOD PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS; MATT MCGUIRE PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

left: sweet potato ravioli with brown butter, almond, smoked ricotta salata and chive

left: raviolimaking at louie

right: owner matt mcguire

December 2018

It’s true of Ruiz: “She’s simply the best all-around restaurant person in the city.” But, “for her, if the job tomorrow was, I don’t know, tuckpointing, it wouldn’t matter. She likes to work.”

And Vanzandt: “He’s like this beam of light.

For front of house, it’s essential. … He has this amazing reserve of empathy and love. You have to love people even though they sometimes don’t deserve it.”

And Turner: “Cooking is actually really monotonous,” McGuire said. “It’s very arduous, and if you don’t love the grind of the labor, you’re not the right person.

It’s not about doing it differently; it’s actually about doing it the same and being able to do it at the same pace.”

I F T H E STA F F I S A CAST, T H E N M C G U I R E I S A N AU T E U R .

In the same way that, say, “The Grand Budapest Hotel” reveals something about Wes Anderson and could be spotted from space as his aesthetic, Louie tells a story about

Matt McGuire. It’s similar to the story of his former restaurant, King Louie, which people still talk about despite its closing in 2007.

In many ways, McGuire is a shrewd businessperson. The bar is dinner service-only because those chairs need to make money. You can get lunch to go, but not dinner because it’s not sensible for production, there’s nowhere to wait, and the dishes aren’t designed to travel. Behind such considerations, however, “It’s not a oneto-one relationship; it’s not a business transaction.

You’re taking care of them,” he said.

This is a quality – grace in caretaking, as McGuire called it – that is difficult to quantify. But spend some time at Louie, and you’ll feel it.

It’s the reason a neighborhood Italian restaurant that isn’t trying to break new ground is the best new restaurant in St. Louis. – H.H.

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longtime collaborator, executive chef Ny Vongsaly, prepares an array of dishes ranging through all manner of Asian and Mediterranean influences. Duck spring rolls rub shoulders with baked quail eggs. Shrimp and pork dumpling soup, full of tender mushrooms and fragrant lemongrass, shares menu

THE MOMENT BILLIEJEAN OPENED,

it was clear restaurateur Zoe Robinson had another hit. Like I Fratellini and Bar Les Frères up the block, her newest restaurant showcases Robinson’s mastery of style.

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Having conquered Italy and France, Robinson puts diners in a New York state of mind at BillieJean. The exterior is the epitome of understated, with minimal signage and an entrance cloaked in black. Inside, black walls are adorned with black-on-white prints by abstract expressionist Robert Motherwell and striking celebrity portraits by photographer Harry Benson. Elegant,

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space with a classic strip steak and frites.

The vibe here is a study in contrasts: bustling yet intimate, a place equally suited for a first date, a special anniversary or an after-work glass of wine and small plates with friends. If we had to choose a uniform, we’d definitely be lovers.

– M.S.

carved walnut chairs are tucked into tables draped in white. The stylish staff wears New York fashion designer Todd Thomas uniforms – some embroidered with “Lover” or “Not Your Lover” playing off the restaurant’s shared name with the Michael Jackson song. Are you on the Upper West Side or in Clayton?

Even with such investment in a flawlessly chic aesthetic, the food is of primary importance at BillieJean. Settle into a soft black banquette, and you’ll soon be greeted by a plate of complimentary scallion pancakes, served with ginger-soy dipping sauce, to focus your attention. Robinson’s

opposite page: whole roasted snapper

left: dinner at billie-jean

right: billie-jean owner zoe robinson

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YELLOWBELLY

top: from left, lion’s share and snap pea daiquiri

left: yellowbelly

YELLOWBELLY’S BRIGHT LOGO is the opposite of a mirage, beckoning you in from the cold of winter to a sunny space filled with warmth,

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light, and pops of white, yellow and aqua.

Drinks and dishes are equally exceptional at the sea and

opposite page: clockwise from bottom, charred carrots, poke bowl, wu tang clams and shoyu salmon

spirits concept – no surprise, considering its seriously stacked kitchen and bar. Coowners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins snagged their dream chef when Richard Blais (restaurateur, author and winner of “Top Chef All-Stars”) agreed to come on as a consultant, bringing executive sous chef Kate Wagoner from Atlanta to run the kitchen. And with Wiggins involved, you know the cocktails are unrivaled.

The Yellowbelly, for example, is worthy of its

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namesake with vacation notes of pineapple, ginger, mellow coconut and earthy turmeric.

But this is no cruise ship bar – unexpected ingredients and flavors bring tropical sophistication rather than sugar bombs. The Millennial Pink, with peach and rum, is sweet upfront with a dry finish from Contratto bitter and blanc vermouth,

and the snap pea daiquiri, made with snap pea simple syrup, is verdant and tart with a sweet, vegetal twist.

Fans of Blais and his love of liquid nitrogen should order the oysters and pearls (raw oysters with spherified kimchi “Dippin’ Dots” still smoking from the liquid nitrogen) or the popular avocado toast (simple

grilled bread with smashed avocado, raw salmon and an orb of pureed mango thickened with agar to resemble an egg yolk). But seafood is the star on the menu, flown in daily for dishes like the showstopping whole branzino, stuffed with mint, Thai basil and cilantro, topped with salsa verde and sporting a crisp, charred skin from its time on a

hot plancha. It’s meant to be shared, but you won’t want to.

Yellowbelly brings something new to St. Louis’ short supply of seafood restaurants. It’s tropical; it’s trendy; it’s fun. And above all, the bar and the kitchen are equally yoked. Escape the St. Louis winter to this island-themed dream. – M.N.

THE TOP

3

DISHES OF THE YEAR

BY MICHAEL RENNER

1 Louie may have an Italian streak, but it was the simply executed, utterly rewarding roast chicken – copper-hued with fragrant jus and roasted rapini – that transported me on a drizzly, foggy night.

2 Simplicity also satisfied the most at Ben Poremba’s Moroccan-inspired Benevolent King with whole branzino flavored simply with lemon and capers and served with dramatic flair.

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

3 The warm, aromatic blends of heady, ethereal African spices – used to season everything from roasted chicken, pan-fried beef and pork ribs to the rich goat curry – at Christine Mukulu Sseremba’s Simba Ugandan Restaurant are worthy of their own category.

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S AVA G E R E S TA U R A N T

dedicated pros with minimal equipment.

Primeval ingredients and techniques. Mutable six- and 12-course tasting menus. Deceptively simple dishes. These are the fundamentals comprising chef Logan Ely’s Savage Restaurant, the Fox Park destination that’s pushing the boundaries of St. Louis dining.

We got a taste of Ely’s culinary talents last year at Square One Project, an underground pop-up dinner series in which

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he experimented with all manner of elements and craft, putting out some of the most ambitious food in town. Savage expands the Square One premise, bringing the concept above ground and making the food a bit more accessible without dulling its edge.

The restaurant is housed in a former neighborhood store renovated completely by Ely and a group of friends – #BuildYourOwn is practically a slogan on Savage social media, referring to everything from the front door to

the kitchen counters, the furniture and even the cutting boards. The slogan also applies to Ely’s fascination with fermentation, including making his own cheese, vinegar, miso and fish sauce.

Ely has described the food coming out of his kitchen as “modern American” – an apt, but fairly wideranging appellation for the artistically composed bites imaginatively plated on everything from tree bark, seashells and rocks to custom ceramics by local artist Phillip Finder.

A Savage experience may

include anything from a dollop of toasted yeast mousse with shaved turnips and preserved onion (pictured above, right) and spot prawns with roe, wakame seaweed and fermented white asparagus (center) to a

roasted rutabaga dish with braised pheasant and gala apple crowned by an ashy layer of burnt hay (top). Courses rotate constantly – often daily – so each foray to Savage is a new culinary adventure.

– M.S. December 2018

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

TWENTY SEATS AROUND AN OPEN KITCHEN. A few

THE CLOVER AND THE BEE opposite page: clockwise from bottom, savage restaurant, chef logan ely and tasting menu dishes at savage

PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

top: the clover and the bee

right: from top, bucatini carbonara and pistachio pestowhipped goat cheese dip

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THE CLOVER AND THE BEE WILL NOT BE OUTSHINED by its adjacent sister restaurant, Olive & Oak, which, after almost three years, still boasts a packed house on any given weeknight.

Opening as a breakfast and lunch cafe, The Clover and the Bee wowed early with fluffy biscuits, fresh salads and decadent sandwiches like the indulgent burrata swathed in rich tomato ragu on sturdy ciabatta. Add a vibrant, gold-flecked floral mural, plush velvet banquettes and a takeout window, and plenty were sold on their new favorite daytime eatery. Then the

restaurant added dinner service.

The silky bucatini carbonara on the Italian-accented nighttime menu comes courtesy of chef Mikey Risk’s 20-year career in area restaurants, including 12 as Trattoria Marcella’s chef de cuisine. After two years at Olive & Oak, he liked the idea of running the kitchen for a more intimate, 40-seat dining room.

“I go up to all the tables to see how everything was. I love that we’re small,” he said. “I like to hear people take their first bites and see their reactions. … It’s

probably one of the most gratifying things as a chef.”

It’s hard not to exclaim over dishes like a mind-blowing pistachio pestowhipped goat cheese dip, or rosemaryflecked braised lamb atop creamy orzo.

The food is as complex and delicous as Olive & Oak’s, but you can actually get a table.

Whether for an egg sandwich and coffee on the run or a bowl of buttery polenta with tender meatballs, it’s clear The Clover and the Bee deserves just as much acclaim as its big sister.

– C.K.

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eliminate the need for human companionship.

EVERYTHING BILL CAWTHON TOUCHES TURNS TO GOLD

FRANKLY ON CHEROKEE

– starting with french fries. The chef-owner of Frankly on Cherokee transforms basic Americana into lifealtering incarnations of hard-to-perfect classics that he serves himself,

working both the register and grill station on a typical night.

You already know and love the housemade sausages from the Frankly Sausages food truck, open since November 2015. Same

with those handcut, brined, doublefried fries – without exaggeration, the best we’ve ever had. Equal parts crispy crust and fluffy interior, when topped with a gooey layer of melted raclette cheese, they almost

But with the brick and mortar came an expanded menu that so far exceeds the expectations of a sausage shop it earned its noticeably high-ranking spot among the finedining restaurants on this list. The Oklahoma onion burger – an archetype on a potato bun with two smash patties made from beef ground in-house topped with Vidalia onion, American cheese and pickles – started an alarmingly personal fight as to whether it beats Mac’s Local Eats as the best burger in St. Louis (something previously not up for debate).

Less traditional but equally good, the fried chicken sandwich is singular: topped with havarti, Granny Smith apple, cucumber and a layer of chopped romaine salad dressed with house buttermilk ranch on thick, toasted slices of sourdough from La Bonne Bouchée.

More remarkable still, every item mentioned costs $10 or less.

Frankly, the quality for value might be the best deal in town. – H.H.

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PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Even the bottled Manhattans and Negronis are pitchperfect, made with ingredients as carefully chosen as the locally raised meats on the menu.

C I N D E R H O U S E

FOOD PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS; INTERIOR PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

CINDER HOUSE IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN one of St. Louis’ swankiest hotels partners with one of the city’s top chefs. The new restaurant at Four Seasons St. Louis opened in August under the guidance of Niche Food Group chef-owner Gerard Craft. He and executive chef Michael Fricker lean heavily on a wood-fired grill to turn out South American fare inspired by Craft’s childhood nanny, Dia Assuñçao. Here are five reasons we love Cinder House.

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opposite page: clockwise from bottom, the oklahoma onion burger, chef-owner bill cawthon and an assortment of sausages at frankly on cherokee

left: cinder house

top: from left, moqueca seafood stew, feijoada and coxinha

right: churro ice cream sandwich

1. That space. A Four Seasons renovation budget means Cinder House oozes luxury with soft leather banquettes, sculptural light fixtures and a ’gram-worthy herringbone floor.

2. Those vegetables.

Cinder House takes the time to elevate even the humblest veg to all-star status – like the hen of the woods mushrooms, which are basted like steak with chorizo spiceseasoned butter, or the side of whole heirloom carrots, grilled and soused in a complex aji panca mole and topped with crunchy smoked hazelnuts.

belly, house-made sausage and two meaty smoked pork ribs are all perfectly prepared and served atop a bed of rice, beans and greens. You know, for balance.

4. Special sauces. From the piquant cilantroaji amarillo aioli that accompanies the coxinha to the delayed heat of the piri piri sauce slathered on grilled chicken, Cinder House’s sauce game is strong.

5. Dreamy desserts.

Promise us you will save room. Crunchy churro discs provide the perfect textural contrast on a decadent ice cream sandwich, and an unassuming rice pudding is the sleeper on the menu. Decorate the sweet, creamy bowl liberally with caramel sauce, cinnamon streusel, toasted almonds and fresh berries, then devour.

You promised. – C.K.

3. The feijoada. To really witness the kitchen’s skill with meat, order Craft’s take on this Brazilian classic. Tender beef oxtail, pork cheek, ham hock, melt-in-your-mouth pork saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

THE BENEVOLENT KING

is known for restaurants featuring inspired beverage programs and delicious international fare, all in chic, cozy spaces. When he opened The Benevolent King, boasting dramatic black walls, luxurious gold accents and intricate white tilework all reflected back in a wall of full-length mirrors, he exceeded even our exalted expectations.

Make your way past the candlelit tables and snag the best seat in the house: the last spot at the six-

right: whole branzino

bottom: the benevolent king

opposite page: knead bakehouse & provisions

person bar. From this perch, you have a prime view of each Moroccaninspired dish as it flies from the petite kitchen.

Maqbouba (marinated roasted cherry tomatoes) parades into the dining room, followed by tender lamb meatballs, crunchy falafel and clouds of fresh pita bread. Consider this your multisensory menu, and order what most makes your mouth water.

Your seat also offers the perfect place to watch general manager and barman extraordinaire Tony Saputo as he

composes complex cocktails with scientific precision. He deftly selects from an arsenal of obscure liquors, tinctures, bitters, and house-made blends and infusions to create balanced, nuanced drinks like the Mauresque. An intricate combination of pastis, orgeat, apricot liqueur, golden falernum, grapefruit juice, black lemon bitters and orange flower water forms the bright, citrus-forward sipper with an insidious licorice undertone.

There’s no getting around the price point. Cocktails cost as much as $18 each, and sharing a few salatim and small plates among friends can easily run the tab over $100. But budget-conscious dining is not the point at The Benevolent King. You go to Poremba’s Moroccan oasis for a decadent, if temporary, escape from the real world. You go to feel like royalty from the moment you ascend your barstool throne to the moment you swipe the last piece of pita through Balkan caviar dip.

Long live the king.

– C.K.

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PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

JA M E S B E A R D - N O M I N AT E D CHEF BEN POREMBA

BEST NEW R E S TA U R A N T S OF 2018 1. Louie 706 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

2. Billie-Jean 7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.797.8484, billiejeanstl.com

3. Yellowbelly 4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, yellowbellystl.com

4. Savage Restaurant 2655 Ann Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.8488, savagestl.com

5. The Clover and the Bee

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P R O V I S I O N S

100 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.942.1216, thecloverandthebee.com

6. Frankly on Cherokee

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

WALK INTO KNEAD BAKEHOUSE & PROVISIONS ON A THURSDAY MORNING, and, along with a “Hello sourdough” neon sign, you’ll be greeted by a surprising number of staff. From the 5-year-old sourdough starter used in the bakery to the brass utensil holders on each table, this place is built on attention to detail – including a level of service that far exceeds

its size and counterservice setup.

The “Eat MO bread” pennant and copious succulents would mean nothing, however, if the French toast wasn’t magnificent. Thick brioche slices, soaked in custard and grilled to caramelized sweetness, are topped with rotating jams like the pearpawpaw number we fell in love with, as well as a savory-sweet dollop

of creme fraiche for a rich, balanced dish that doesn’t induce a sugar stomachache.

Lunch offers a solid selection of sandwiches, soups and salads, but for that remarkable French toast and any iteration of Knead’s egg sandwich (we like the brioche bun filled with thick, crisp bacon, scrambled eggs, smoked Gouda or cheddar, tomato, greens and a dill-heavy herb

aioli so good [it could convince us to order] a cardboard sandwich), we recommend arriving before 11 a.m. That will also ensure a full bakery case with enough bready doughnuts and cinnamon morning buns to share. Purchase a full loaf of your favorite bread to bring home, and don’t sleep on the immensely satisfying, rich and savory everything bagel kolaches. – H.H.

2744 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.449.1178, franklysausages.com

7. Cinder House 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cinderhousestl.com

8. The Benevolent King 7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440, thebenevolentking.com

9. Knead Bakehouse & Provisions 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

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stuff to do:

DECEMBER

BY MONICA OBRADOVIC AND JANE THIER

Wintermarkt Dec. 1, 8, 15 – noon to 4 p.m., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com/wintermarkt Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. hosts a free traditional German Wintermarkt at its Midtown Brewery & Biergarten. Look for holiday gifts from local vendors like Arch Apparel, Kaldi’s Coffee and Ray Ray’s Kettle Corn. Refuel after shopping with German fare for purchase like pretzels and borscht.

Grace Kickoff Brunch Dec. 1 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Grace Meat & Three, 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com Grace Meat & Three rings in the holiday season with brunch.

The Grove eatery launches its weekend brunch service with dishes like chicken and waffles, egg casserole and chef-owner Rick Lewis’ take on an Egg McMuffin-smash burger hybrid, the Rick Muffin. Bring a gift to donate to Mission St. Louis and get a free photo with Old Saint Nick.

McPop Brunch Dec. 3 – 6:30 to 10 p.m., Guerrilla Street Food, 6120 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.226.9786, Facebook: McPop Join Guerrilla Street Food’s Brian Hardesty and guest chef Nate Hereford as they put a new spin on iconic McDonald’s dishes. In their first collaboration, the chefs create modern renditions of fast food favorites like the Big Mac and Chicken McNugget. Each course includes a beverage pairing. You’ll be “lovin’ it.”

Tickets available online.

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The Great St. Louis Czech Beer Festival Dec. 8 – 1 to 5 p.m., American Czech Center, 4690 Lansdowne Ave., St. Louis, stlpivo.com/ czechbeerfest More than 20 St. Louis-area breweries celebrate the Czech brewing tradition at this annual event.

Past participating breweries include Schlafly, Six Mile Bridge and Civil Life Brewing Co., as well as Czech imports like Pilsner Urquell and Staroporamen. Tickets available online.

Whiskey Flight Dec. 8 – 2 to 5 p.m., Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 10800 Lincoln Trail, Fairview Heights, 618.394.9800, shoprandalls.com Sample whiskey from around the world without leaving the neighborhood. Randall’s offers tastes of everything from American bourbons and Canadian ryes to Scottish blends and Irish malts. This event features more than 30 brands available for sampling and purchase.

Tickets available online.

Sparkling, Champagne and Cider Tasting Dec. 12 – 7 to 9 p.m., The Feasting Fox, 4200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.3500, thefeastingfoxstl.com Find the perfect bottle of bubbly for the new year with SouthCity Sipsters’ annual tasting at the Feasting Fox. Sample nine sparkling and Champagne options, as well as three ciders, and purchase your favorite at a discount. Tickets available online or by phone.

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WHAT I DO

Suman Shekar Suman Shekar has a sharp eye for detail. Even while chatting at Companion’s West St. Louis Campus, part of her attention is focused on the bustling bakery visible through the cafe’s glass walls, watching for any hiccup. Her role overseeing process improvements and quality assurance combines her lifelong passion for cooking with her inclination for order and efficiency. Add a culinary degree and an MBA, and it’s easy to see why 29-year-old Shekar landed such a vital role at one of St. Louis’ largest bread-baking operations. – Catherine Klene

what I’ve learned is that everybody used to tell me that you have to be a little more aggressive or assertive, and I said I will be, but in my own style. … If you’re not direct with somebody, I think the message is lost.”

“ I a lway s s ay this to other p e o p l e – and maybe it’s the wrong thing to say – I don’t know how smart I am on [the science of baking], but I know I work hard to figure it out.”

“Every time I try to make [Indian food], nothing ta s t e s a s g o o d as my mom’s ...

Sometimes I watch her and I’m like, I understand the concept, but there are so many things like, ‘A squirt of this, a bit of this, and now you cook for another half an hour or 20 minutes, and use your pressure cooker.’

She has a book this big from when she was 19 [in which] she handwrote every recipe she could possibly know, so when she came to the States, she would have it.”

“The culinary industry isn’t just cooking.

It’s sanitation, it’s order of operations – it’s allencompassing. ... I make sure that I’m using my culinary experience to achieve and transfer that information to [staff].

Maybe I’m not physically [cooking] every day, but the experience I gathered from cooking, I use every day that I’m here.” “ Yo u ’ v e g ot to b e d i r e c t. You can’t mess around with it. I think

“We do this thing called Wa n d e r i n g W e d n e s d ay s . Two or three times a month, [my friends and I] try to pick a new place to go that’s on our random list. … We did Pizza

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Head over on Grand; we tried to catch it on the day they did the masala pizza. I want it so bad!”

“Coming in every d ay a n d s m e l l i n g [ t h e b r e a d ] – oh, it’s so good. The fun doesn’t end on that part. People always [say], ‘Oh, two years at the bakery, you probably don’t even smell it anymore.’ I’m like, ‘No, every day I come in, and it smells so good!’” “ T h e c i a b at t a is the best one h e r e . It’s so simple and good. It’s just the best.

Even the regular baguette is so good here. It’s hard to describe it. It’s just such a satisfying feeling when you’re eating it because of the way it crunches and the way it’s so soft on the inside.”

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

“ I wa s a lway s e xc i t e d t o l e a r n s o m e t h i n g n e w, start something new and establish a procedure in place, even if it was something as simple as my personal laundry.”

Companion, 2331 Schuetz Road, Maryland Heights, 314.627.5262; 9781 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.218.2280, companionbaking.com

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