December 2012

Jamie Kilgore spills her secret for keeping the holidays festive hint: it involves lots of champagne

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December 2012

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decem b er 2 0 12 • VOLUME 12, Issue 12 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Julie Cohen Stacy Schultz Danny Steinberg Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Greg Rannells, Kristi Schiffman, Amy Schromm, Carmen Troesser Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Beth Styles Erin Keplinger Sharon Arnot Erin Keplinger Angie Rosenberg Erin Estopare, Rachel Gaertner, Scott Hadfield, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Danny Steinberg

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Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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contents 9 A La Carte

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Reviews 17 new and notable: Pastaria

by Michael Renner

21 Dine on a Dime: Layla Lebanese Restaurant

by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz

23 Nightlife: Hendricks BBQ

by Matt Berkley

24 Cook’s Books: Lou Rook’s Favorites

by Julie Cohen

Home cooking 27 What in the world: Long Pepper

by Ligaya Figueras

28 Vegetize it: Beef Bourguignon Bourguignon: French In Spirit, Vegetarian In Truth

by Beth Styles

30 One ingredient, 3 ways: Eggnog Get Your Nog In

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35 cover details

features

by Dee Ryan

32 The New Classics Paul Manno’s Rack of Lamb

Last course 47 Stuff to do by byron Kerman

50 Five questions for: David Choi

by Byron Kerman

35 getting cheeky Tongue-in-cheek is no longer just a phrase.

It’s dinner

BY Julie Cohen

40 Winter’s Hidden Gems The indoor venues that entertain us through these coming cold months offer delicious delights tucked among the Twizzlers

BY Kellie Hynes

Photo by Ashley Gieseking jamie kilgore, bartender at Cielo Restaurant in the Four Seasons, shares her tips for making the season merry p. 12

hibernation’s hidden gems p.40 craft’s ode to italy p. 17 fine dining gets cheeky p. 35

= recipe on this page

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December 2012

INTERVIEW | You wanted more spicy pork, he gave you more spicy pork.

In this month’s Five Questions (p. 50), we chat with Seoul Taco chef and co-owner David Choi about his new restaurant in The Loop, what he was doing before he joined St. Louis’ food truck fleet and what menu item the St. Louis Rams (who Seoul caters to a few times a month) call the “moneymaker.”

Head to SauceMagazine.com/ extrasauce.php to see our full interview with Choi, including the next step for Seoul, his truck’s nickname and how desperate some people are for a taco.

Photo by jonathan gayman

When Michael Renner reviewed Kelly English Steakhouse back in February, he loved this bone-in rib-eye with bourbon au poivre sauce. Will it make the list of his favorite dishes of 2012?

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, December 14 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. to find out

PINTEREST | All holiday season, our readers have been showing us how they plan to spend the most wonderful time of the year in our Holiday Party Pinterest Contest. You haven’t had a chance yet? Don’t worry; you have until December 20 to enter to win a Krups XP1020 Steam Espresso Machine. All you have to do is create a Pinterest board called My Saucy Holiday Party and pin at least 10 images, four of them from Sauce. Each image should include #saucemagazine in its description.

We’ll announce the winner at SauceMagazine.com/blog/ on December 21. For all the details, go to SauceMagazine.com/extrasauce. php. Now, get Pinning!

facebook.com/saucemag | twitter.com/saucemag pinterest.com/saucemag December 2012

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December 2012

EAT THIS

One bite and you’ll know why the Pasta con Melanzane at Rich & Charlie’s hasn’t changed in 20 years.

As kids, the eggplant perched atop the big bowl of piping hot pasta was an afterthought. We’d throw the purple hunk on Mom’s plate to uncover the shell-shaped doughy nuggets underneath, little beauties bathing in a subtly sweet tomato sauce and duo of cheeses. These days, we fight over those thick eggplant slices – blanketed in molten cheese just slightly browned and crunchy from a little time beneath the broiler. Carbs and cheese. Salty and sweet.

Photo by jonathan gayman

It’s an addicting combination: then, now, always.

Rich & Charlie’s • 1081 S. Woods Mill Road, Town and Country • 636.227.8965 • richandcharlies.com

December 2012

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RESTAURANT

playlist holiday entertaining When it comes to entertaining this holiday season, the key to a good dinner party is making sure the tunes that waft out of your kitchen are just as alluring as the smells.

Tim Mallett loves to make a statement with the music at his restaurant, Big Sky Cafe, by mixing the old with the new. Here, his list of tunes to set the mood for a laid-back meal with friends. – Meera Nagarajan Someday Baby Bob Dylan 2:19 John Hammond Jr. Sixteen Tons Tennessee Ernie Ford

[wine] Zinfandels have the weight of cabernet sauvignon, but not the tannins. They pair wonderfully with meaty fish like salmon or tuna and are a joy to drink young (unlike cabs). The cherry on top: Top-of-the-line zins cost as much as a middle-of-the-road cabernet. Is zinfandel the perfect red? Maybe, maybe not. But it sure does make a great grape for the holidays. Here are a few bottles to look out for.

– Glenn Bardgett, member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine wine director at Annie Gunn’s

Brown Estate Zinfandel, 2010, Napa Valley, Calif. This is one of the most impressive zins in terms of fruit power and manages to still capture the intense raspberry character that the majority of us zinophiles seek. Most cabernets from Napa won’t give you this much pleasure for just $40.

Paraduxx Z Blend, 2009, Napa Valley, Calif. Made to give you thoughts of the great super Tuscan blends of Italy, Duckhorn Wine Co.’s 62-percent zin – blended with cab and merlot – has the same great food affinity found in its Italian muse.

For holiday gift-giving, you can be confident that nearly all red wine fans will have a big smile when you treat them to this zintillating $48 blend.

Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel, 2010, Dry Creek Valley, Calif. These old vines were first planted by the Pedroncelli family in 1904, when many Americans were eating ice cream cones at the St. Louis World’s Fair.

The vines made it through Prohibition and are still rewarding lovers of this distinctive California grape. Finding wines that are this zinsational for about $17 is truly a challenge.

Back to Black Amy Winehouse Take A Look Irma Thomas We’re Gonna Make It Mavis Staples Let Your Loss Be Your Lesson Alison Krauss and Robert Plant 40 Day Dream Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros It’s Money That I Love Randy Newman Comin’ Home Baby David Sanborn

[beer] Aging beer in oak vessels used to be the norm, but once stainless steel and sanitation were introduced to brewing, we saw a long period of time during which very few beers were aged in oak barrels and other wooden casks.

Brews that do get to enjoy this rustic aging process bring back traditional techniques and truly push the boundaries of what beer can be.

– Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales

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Lindeman’s Gueuze Cuvée René This “sour” ale is made by blending young and old spontaneous ales (You let the natural yeast in the air “spontaneously” ferment the beer.) to develop depth of flavors that range from honey and pollen to wet hay, lemon juice and chardonnay grapes. The ales that are blending have spent years in neutral oak barrels, so the oak in this case is more for the benefit of the yeast than its character in the beer.

Rogue John John Dead Guy Ale John John Dead Guy Ale starts as one of my favorite Rogue ales, Dead Guy Ale. The deep honey-colored ale is then aged in the Rogue Distillery’s Dead Guy Whiskey barrels. The resulting beer starts with toffee, caramels and earthy hops but finishes with a lingering vanilla and oaky char. Slight warmth from the whiskey rounds everything out.

Goose Island Bourbon County Stout For years, this was one of the biggest, baddest and most intense imperial stouts available. Some say this beer started the whiskey barrel-aging revolution in the U.S. This inky, viscous, midnight black stout will give off flavors ranging from sweet licorice to burnt mocha coffee, toasted coconut and boozy bourbon. The heavy oaky notes say that this beer sat on charred wood that was once infused with bourbon.

December 2012

make this

Need a homemade gift fast? You can do better than a Mason jar filled with baking mix. We’re smitten with brittle, especially since our recipe for the festive candy starts with a common soda cracker. To make 1 pound of butterscotch brittle, place 24 saltines on a 13-by-9-inch sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Melt 11 tablespoons (1 stick plus 3 tablespoons) of butter in a saucepan. Add ½ cup of brown sugar and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, then let cook for 5 minutes, stirring periodically. Remove saucepan from heat and stir in ½ teaspoon of baking powder. Pour the mixture evenly over the crackers and bake in a 400-degree oven for 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with 1 cup of butterscotch chips. When the chips begin to soften, about 2 minutes, spread them evenly over the brittle with a spatula.

Immediately sprinkle ½ cup of finely chopped toasted almonds on top. Let brittle cool for about 30 minutes before breaking it into pieces. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

- Ligaya Figueras

photo by carmen troesser

Wrapped in parchment paper and tucked into a candy box, brittle is the perfect homemade holiday gift. Can’t part with your buttery creation? Just put it in a bowl for you (and your houseguests) to nibble on with coffee and tea.

December 2012

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Merry Making The ever-flamboyant Jamie Kilgore has a flair for the festive. The glitzy bartender at Cielo Restaurant in the Four Seasons really knows how to kick it up during the holidays. We sat down with her to talk about how to doll up any drink and the cocktails that fortify her and hubby mixing phenom Ted Kilgore on Christmas day. – Ligaya Figueras What’s the easiest way to fancy up a cocktail? Two things: You can take a drink that everybody’s had and is bored with, top it with Champagne and it’s amazing. I also like to use cassis liqueur because it has a beautiful red color and takes very little to make the drink flavorful, velvety and vibrant. As little as a quarter of an ounce will be enough. Any drink that has sweetener, back off on the sweetener and use the cassis.

The most overrated? I don’t care for triple sec. Buy Cointreau or Grand Marnier.

What will you be drinking on Christmas Day? Because [Ted and I] both have families that don’t drink, we like to enjoy a breakfast cocktail before going to family events. For Christmas, we drink a Ramos Gin Fizz or hot buttered rum.

What’s the most festive cocktail?

Kir Royale because Champagne is affiliated with celebrations. But that’s silly; Champagne should be regarded as something you can drink every day.

Where’s the best place to shop for vintage stemware? Antique stores. Two of my favorites are in Maplewood: Treasure Aisles and Big Bend Antique [Gallery]. You’re making me give away my secrets.

What booze tops your wish list this year? I always want Champagne.

Money’s no object? Then Ron Zacapa XO Rum. Buffalo Trace has its Single Oak Project. Those are fun if you can get your hands on them.

What’s your go-to gift for drinkers? I like to stock up on cases of champagne, Lucien Albrecht. It’s a sparkling French wine. They have a brut and a brut rosé that are both moderately priced, so good for gift-giving. If you want to invest the time, make homemade liqueurs or infusions as gifts. You can do it in Mason jars and put a ribbon on it.

What’s your favorite party dress and what drink matches best with it? My favorite party dress is black, flocked with a floral pattern. A glass of Champagne is always more elegant than a 12-ounce bottle of beer.

If one must drink beer for the holidays, put it in a beautiful glass.

How do you steal the show from your husband at a holiday party? Show a little cleavage. Is it anybody’s husband or just mine?

How do you dress up your hair for the holidays? I have a modest collection of vintage hats and hairpieces.

I also enjoy putting flowers in my hair – always in a good contrast color to your hair color. I go to craft stores and they usually have flowers by the bunch.

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

What’s the most underrated cocktail ingredient? Angostura bitters.

A lot of people love it but don’t realize how cool it is. You have a Plain Jane drink. What does it need? Angostura bitters. It will pull all the flavors together.

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December 2012

When finding a location for his wine bar Olio and restaurant Elaia, it was imperative for Ben Poremba, also co-owner of Salume Beddu, to stay in the city. Now, a run-down historic home and former gas station have been transformed into what is becoming one of the cornerstones of urban renewal for the once-blighted McRee Town neighborhood.

How does Poremba handle a move, a baby boy and two newly opened projects? It’s all in a day’s work. – Interviewed by Julie Cohen, photographed by Greg Rannells

scenes from my life: Ben Poremba

Elaia & Olio 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com

1. As new parents of a four-month-old baby, Poremba and his partner, Angela Giancola, don’t get much sleep. Yet, like the doting father he is, Poremba attested that little Omri is a “very, very good, easygoing baby.”

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2. Poremba recently moved from the CWE to Webster Groves. An avid collector, he can often be found at antique malls, thrift stores, flea markets … “You name it,” he said. “I’m a hoarder. When we called the movers to move our two-bedroom, they said, ‘Ah, no big deal, you’ll have about 560 cubic feet;’ then they came in, and it was 1,400.”

3. After Poremba wakes up around 5:30 a.m., he reads The New Yorker, Haaretz, an Israeli daily newspaper, and fires up his Nespresso.

He loves this machine so much, he bought one for the guys at work. “Now they love it too. It makes me an espresso, but it also has a frother if I want a cappuccino. It’s beautiful.”

4. While Giancola and Omri sleep, Poremba walks Bella and Disco, his two Weimaraners.

“Bella’s a rescue dog, but we don’t think she grew up with dogs; she grew up with deer. She eats all types of funky leaves – she’s a strange dog.”

5. “Someone told me the biggest stressors in life are a move, a new business and a baby. So, really, we did all at the same time. We’re already stressed about one thing, why not do it all?”

6. Poremba can often be found replaying a Tom Waits album on the vintage record player at Olio.

7. Before Olio and Elaia opened, the staff assembled to do interviews and finalize menus.

“People really get to know each other, the capriciousness of each other, the temperament, so when we open, nothing will be a surprise. Also a time for me to walk around and cuss constantly in my thick accent,” he laughed. “That amuses them.”

8. Sometimes Poremba sneaks away from work to forage for mushrooms (He won’t tell us where.), but mostly he ducks off to go antique shopping (He won’t tell us where.) to find pieces likes this hutch.

9. At the end of a long night, Poremba cherishes a meal with his family, including his parents and Giancola’s.

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December 2012

reviews

new and notable: pastaria p. 17 dine on a dime: layla lebanese restaurant p. 21 nightlife: hendricks bbq p. 23 cook’s books: lou rook’s favorites p. 24

New and Notable: Pastaria

by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

P

erched midway up the open staircase, nursing a half carafe of affordable house Sangiovese, I had a bird’s eye view of the hustle and bustle of Pastaria, Gerard Craft’s latest eatery housed on the ground floor of the gleaming Centene Plaza skyscraper in downtown Clayton. It’s an expansive space: floor-to-ceiling windows, a soaring ceiling and seating for about 110 diners. After settling in for my hour-plus wait and nibbling, at the bar, on a few thin breadsticks – crunchy and salty, with a dusting of residual flour – I took it all in.

Further up the staircase there’s a private dining room with windows overlooking the main dining room.

In the front of the house, visible from the street, is a pasta station full of giant mixers; tubs of dough; trays of dried, coiled noodles; and a couple of flour-dusted chefs. The adjacent freezer case shows off the everchanging flavors of gelato made in-house. Along the back wall there’s the wood-burning oven anchoring the bustling open kitchen; over the hearth, fired in colorful tile, is Pastaria’s motto: “La Verità,” which means “the truth.” One wall is lined with pizza peels signed by notable chefs from around the country; a nice touch of solidarity. The gentle aroma of butter and burning oak fill the place.

Strozzapretti December 2012

By now you probably know that Pastaria doesn’t take reservations (unless it’s for a private party of 12 or more) and that waits are measured in hours rather than minutes. But from my crow’s nest perspective during a couple of visits, the throngs of bonhomous diners didn’t seem to Pastaria, mind. The bar was packed, tastes of wine were 7734 Forsyth free flowing, and people milled about knowing Blvd., Clayton, that they shared the same desire: To see what 314.862.6603, the young chef and owner of Niche, Brasserie pastariastl.com and Taste has done this time to impress us.

Ever since Craft announced that he wanted to open an inexpensive, casual, family-friendly Italian restaurant, the buzz has been incessant. Twice this year, Eater, a popular and influential national food blog, named Pastaria one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of 2012. Then in October, after only one month in business, it placed fourth in Esquire magazine’s “Most Life-Changing Pizza” poll. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

review new and notable: Pastaria

House-made gelato From left: Gerard Craft, chef-owner of Niche Restaurant Group; Greg Reece; Josh Meyer; Adam Altnether, executive chef and owner

Craft is known for making some gutsy moves, such as opening the nationally renowned Niche in the scruffy Benton Park neighborhood and then last month – not without controversy – moving it to the tony suburb of Clayton, next to Pastaria.

But there is something to be said about the efficiency of consolidating operations, much like he did when he moved Taste next door to Brasserie in the Central West End. Land anywhere on the menu and you’ll be pleased. It’s so homey, so unabashedly rustic, that it seems like the sort of food you’d be served in Italy by a family from the countryside or in a village osteria. Which is exactly the point. Where Niche and Brasserie were influenced by Craft’s Parisian travels,

Pastaria reflects the Italian trip he and executive chef and co-owner Adam Altnether took. And it says so right on the menu: “Pastaria belongs to the people who showed us around Italy and the people who invited us into their kitchen and their homes. The menu at Pastaria will tell their stories.”

The story begins with slices of fresh, warm bread and two tiny bowls of fruity olive oil, one spiked with red pepper flakes. It ends with chilled chalices of gelato, or a decadent dessert from pastry chef Ann Croy. In between are chapters of pastas, pizza, soups, salads, appetizers, wine, vegetables and entrees. A glass of prosecco or beer with an order of six crispy risotto balls make a good start. Arborio rice,

mozzarella and Grana Padano cheese are mixed, rolled, breaded, fried … and will be eaten as quickly as they arrive. The accompanying herb aioli and marinara dipping sauces are fine, but I had no problem merely popping them straight into my mouth – or as they say in Naples, “frijenno magnanno”: frying and eating.

Shaved kale salad is as ubiquitous as pork belly on local menus; Pastaria tosses its version with creamy anchovy dressing, breadcrumbs and pecorino, elevating it to Caesar status.

The wine list is a well-chosen and affordable array of Italian reds and whites.

And I like the casualness of serving house wines by the half-carafe (about three glasses). All but two of the 12 beers on tap are from local breweries.

The pasta dishes are comforting enough to educe anyone’s grandmother. Strozzapreti, short and twisted and perfectly al dente, is the vehicle of choice to which a thick Bolognese sauce, concentrated with beefy tomato flavor, clings. Oven-roasted lasagna comes with seasonal vegetables; when I was there, a mixture of diced carrots, broccoli, onion and red pepper – cooked yet crisp – and shredded chicken were held together with fontina cheese and a béchamel sauce and layered between tidy squares of lasagna noodles. It’s a far cry from the standard mass; I could taste each vegetable clearly.

Pappardelle noodles, long and wide, are tossed with smoked pulled pork, thinly sliced apples and a subtle mascarpone sauce.

Do not ignore this dish and its slightly sweet, meaty, smoky flavors. The eight pizzas, while not life-changing, are superb.

The light tomato “sauce” on the finocchiona (fennel) salami pizza was fresh and vibrant, the crust thin, chewy, crispy and properly blistered around the edges. It also had that delicious slightly smoky burnt flavor only obtained from a high-heat, wood-fired oven.

Throughout my meal, I kept thinking of that display case of gelato: salted caramel, dark chocolate, pumpkin with bacon and cashew bits, fresh basil, goat cheese, and on and on. Both the salted caramel and dark chocolate were intensely flavored and creamy without the heaviness of ice cream, just as it should be with gelato.

Perhaps it’s the American influence, but the servings would be just as satisfying at half the size and price. Mama Rodolico’s Tiramisu, presumably named after one of the Italian hosts, is a beautiful sight: five layers high, airy and cloud-like, and only slightly sweet. There was silence at the table after the first bite.

There are other dishes – roasted chicken, braised beef, wild salmon – I’ll have to try those sometime. Pastaria is a story I don’t want to end.

AT A GLANCE Where Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com

Don’t Miss Dishes Any pizza, pappardelle with smoked pork, any gelato

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Vibe Boisterous and convivial with plenty of attention paid to details. Reservations only for private party of 12 or more. Validated parking in the attached garage.

When Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 5 to 9 p.m.

Entree Prices Pizzas: $10 to $13.

Pastas: $11 to $17 (add $6 for gluten-free).

Entrees: $17 to $19.

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December 2012

review

Dine On a Dime: Layla Lebanese Restaurant

dine on a dime: Layla Lebanese Restaurant

by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz | photos by Carmen Troesser

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Layla Lebanese Restaurant 4317 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 314.535.5500

This past summer, the space in The Grove that once housed Five Bistro and, later, Flavors Barbecue reemerged as a Mediterranean eatery. Here, you’ll find belly dancers swaying between tables that are topped with regional favorites like baba ghanoush, crisp falafel and savory shish kebabs.

But look a little further and you’ll find Arabic dishes that go far beyond the usual suspects.

December 2012

Superb Salads While all salads feature fresh romaine and olive oil, the similarities end there. For the Green Salad, a squeeze of fresh lemon and dashes of salt and pepper lightly dress uniformly thin slivers of avocado, cucumbers, green peppers and green olives. This simple salad is easy enough to re-create at home – and tasty enough that we did, for days and days. The olive salad [1] was a solid alternative, substituting tomatoes for avocado, garnished with dried oregano and mint, then finished with a tart splash of balsamic vinegar.

Focus on the Appetizers The appetizer section of Layla’s menu is the most creative, so don’t overlook its unique mix of hot and cold, traditional and less so. On the conventional (and cold) side is a version of hummus [2] that’s so good, even carnivorous Dan couldn’t resist its creamy texture, subtle seasoning and simple olive oil garnish.

Pair it with an order of baba ghanoush for a real treat. Equally fantastic (and familiar) is the falafel [3]. Layla’s rendition of this chickpea classic may be the best we’ve had in town – seasoned just right, the inside boasting bright green specks of fresh parsley. Unfortunately, the kibbe was less successful, the centers of the beefstuffed dough still frozen even after their time in the deep-fryer. Rounding out the lesser-known options is makdous, slices of baby eggplant that had been essentially pickled: cured in olive oil and then stuffed with nuts and spices. This unique dish was funky yet fantastic, the tangy brine with the red peppers, chopped walnuts and fresh garlic making for an addictive combination.

Satisfying Suppers While the beef shish kebab was underseasoned, the chicken version was just right. Marinated simply in lemon and olive oil, the poultry was rubbed with a light Zatar seasoning before hitting the grill for a tender and tasty result. The beef kefta – a mixture of ground beef, onions and fresh herbs that got formed into a sausage, skewered and grilled – was also good. Each entree came with a

saute of carrots and green beans along with some of the best basmati rice we’ve ever eaten. Fragrant, delicately steamed and piping hot, we’d return for the rice alone.

Desserts and Coffee The dessert menu also spans the gamut of usual and unusual. For traditionalists, there’s baklava, kissed with a touch of rose water, that’s a good companion to a cup of dark, Arabic coffee. For the more adventurous, there’s kaliaj, a sweet vanilla milk custard wrapped in pastry and finished with light, house-made whipped cream. But if you’re smart, you’ll finish your meal with harishah. The Syrian cake is simply divine, made of dried, shredded coconut and sweetened with coconut milk and honey.

TAKEAWAY While Mediterranean favorites will draw diners into Layla’s, the execution of more adventurous dishes will push patrons past their comfort zone. Pair that with fresh ingredients, reasonably priced wines and helpful service, and you have a great recipe for gaining this relative newcomer plenty of soon-to-be regulars. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

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review nightlife: Hendricks BBQ

Nightlife: Hendricks BBQ

by Matt berkley • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

what you don’t like and they’ll endeavor to prove you wrong. The best part of my first night there was watching the bartender (whom I just told that my girlfriend would like anything without Hendricks BBQ, whiskey in it) mix her 1200 S. Main St., St. a bourbon cocktail that Charles, 636.724.8600, effectively converted hendricksbbq.com her tastes. Already a dedicated bourbon fan myself, I instantly fell for the variety of small-batch options that are offered over the more tired, commercial brands. Also winning me over was the tap system Hendricks has set up for pre-made cocktails such as the Old Fashioned, a stiff little number topped off with a booze-soaked cherry.

For something less harsh but equally wellconcocted, try Grandpa’s Cough Syrup, which mixes rye whiskey, ginger liqueur, lemon, agave and club soda. The drink menu also features a handful of booze-fueled milkshakes and a fine selection of local craft beers, the latter of which are served in Mason jars.

F

irst experiences with moonshine can be tricky. Mine was freshman year in college when a dorm mate passed around an unmarked bottle of clear liquid that was a struggle to take down and might as well have been rubbing alcohol in terms of taste. Tipsy but unimpressed, I vowed to permanently shy away from the stuff – opting instead for bourbons and martinis. It turns out I had no idea what I was missing. Thankfully, my dry spell was recently broken by the talented staff manning the bar at Hendricks, the new barbecue and moonshine house perched on a quiet section of St. Charles.

While Main Street St. Charles remains dominated by the typical nightclubs and cheap shot-and-beer joints, Hendricks is something of an outlier – an intelligent but still casual haven from the techno noise and general insanity down the road. Driven by smooth hooch, rustic music and down-home December 2012

barbecue, Hendricks draws a decidedly older (but not old) patron base that doesn’t mind shelling out $9 for a well-made cocktail on a Wednesday night. The bar is regularly populated by couples and young professionals eager to sample new drinks. It’s easy to see that this place is ready to take off.

Considering it’s operated by the folks behind such local hits as Sanctuaria and Café Ventana, it isn’t surprising that the drinks at Hendricks’ bar, as well as the staff who expertly serve them up, are so smart and well-selected. Moonshine is available in a flavor spectrum that ranges from smoky and cured to blueberry sweet.

Straight shots of moonshine are available in one and two ounces or, if you prefer yours mixed, Hendricks’ bar staff is more than happy to tailor an impromptu moonshine cocktail to individual tastes. Without even asking for it, I was treated to a white Manhattan. This is where the bartenders excel. Tell them exactly

The rustic, barbecue blues theme seeps heavily into Hendricks. The space, which formerly housed a waterworks, merges sleek and sophisticated with laid-back and countrified. The main dining room resembles a contemporary roadhouse, dominated by wooden tables and booths. The main bar is just as busy and filled with huge beer taps, which nearly touch a line of Mason jar light fixtures that illuminate the bustling mixing station. The downstairs Moonshine Blues Bar (still working out its final kinks) offers patrons a chance to enjoy its whiskey- and moonshine-fueled cocktails to the sound of live bluegrass and country bands.

order it: Hendricks BBQ

BBQ Nachos Drenched with your choice of sauce, big enough for a meal and probably the best thing on the menu.

The outside deck space and downstairs patio are impressive areas on their own. The massive deck overlooks the Katy Trail and dons a patio teeming with slick wooden tables that are lorded over by an enormous stone fireplace.

In an age of restaurants and bars cashing in on sophisticated comfort foods, it is natural, as a consumer, to feel a bit jaded … if not outright cheated. But it’s hard to feel anything but respect for Hendricks, a joint utterly unapologetic about its basic but intense offerings.

Grandpa’s Cough Syrup The ideal cocktail for those who’ve never had the backbone to try a rye whiskey.

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review

ONLINE EXCLUSIVE

Cook’s books: lou rook’s favorites

They may not fit in a stocking, but these gorgeous coffee-table tomes are the perfect gift for the food-lover in your life. Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine.com, check out By the Book where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection.

3 Books to Inspire You in the Kitchen For Annie Gunn’s chef Lou Rook, cookbooks haven’t influenced his cooking as much as they have inspired it. “As a chef, you use cookbooks when you don’t have time to go out to dinner or travel – in order to explore new cuisines,” he said.

“You read through them to get your inspiration.”

So when creating his own cookbook, Rook Cooks (due out this month), he resisted the temptation to make something his peers could “ooh” and “aah” over and instead created a guide for you and me.

“There’s not 10,000 ingredients needed, no crazy apparatuses. There are therapeutic aspects to cooking; it’s about wine and song. I tried to make this a fun book.” Here, a few of Rook’s favorite reads for getting his mind moving. – Julie Cohen

Heston Blumenthal at Home

by Heston Blumenthal

Ducasse Flavors of France by Alain Ducasse with Linda Dannenberg “I was fortunate enough to eat at one of [Ducasse’s] restaurants in France. He takes a more modern approach, well, a little bit more modern approach to Old World cooking, while keeping the French basics still in mind. It has beautiful photos, too.”

The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook: A Consuming Passion by Patrick O’Connell “This comes from probably the No. 1 inn in the United States. When they first founded the restaurant, 30 years or so ago, all they did was fry chicken and people would drive in for it from Washington, D.C. Now, they own basically the whole town. The book has simple cooking techniques that use quality ingredients. They’re the best at making sure that food is still food. I love the pictures: this rural town in Virginia, the countryside, old barns, sheep, cows … the recipes are incredible, too.”

Pick up a copy of Rook Cooks when it’s released this month at The Smokehouse Market, Annie Gunn’s and Kitchen Conservatory.

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Ritz Paris: Haute Cuisine Text by Jean-François Mesplède, Recipes by Michel Roth

Volt Ink.: Recipes, Stories, Brothers by Bryan and Michael Voltaggio

photo by greg rannells

A Man and His Meatballs: The Hilarious But True Story of a SelfTaught Chef and Restaurateur by John LaFemina “This is a story of this gentleman in New York City who wanted to own a restaurant. The book is about his vision for it and the trials and tribulations in how he got there; it’s a great read – more of a for-fun one. For me, it’s both a memoir and a cookbook – he ends each chapter with great, basic recipes.”

Pierre Hermé Pastries

by Pierre Hermé

December 2012

December 2012

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December 2012

what in the world: long pepper p. 27 vegetize it: beef bourguignon p. 28 one ingredient, 3 ways: eggnog p. 30 the new classics: rack of lamb p. 32

what in the world is

long pepper?

Pungent, sweet and hotter than black pepper, long pepper was used in Indian cuisine as far back as 2000 B.C. Though declared in the 19th century to be “unknown to the modern grocery trade,” it’s being rediscovered by the modern cook.

Use it: To lend heat and a hint of sweetness to Indonesian curries or Indian achar; in place of common pepper in pâté, atop mashed or roasted potatoes; and to season pastries, puddings and fruit desserts.

Buy it: Whole Foods Market, 1160 Town & Country Crossing, Town & Country, 636.527.1160, wholefoodsmarket.com

Earl Grey and Long Pepper Cookies with Lemon Curd

Approximately 20 cookies ¾ cup sugar 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened 2 eggs (room temperature) Pinch salt ¼ tsp. vanilla extract or seeds from half a vanilla bean 2¾ cups all-purpose flour ¾ tsp. baking powder

photo by greg rannells

• Using a stand mixer, cream the sugar and butter on medium speed until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then mix again.

Add the eggs, salt and vanilla and mix to combine.

Scrape the sides of the bowl. Add the flour, baking powder and lemon zest and mix to combine. Add the tea and long pepper and mix.

Transfer to a container and refrigerate until cool.

• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

• Portion the cookies onto an oiled baking sheet. Cook for 7 minutes, or until lightly golden.

Serve warm with lemon curd.

Lemon Curd

Courtesy of Sidney Street Cafe’s Bob Zugmaier

December 2012

Zest of 1 lemon 1 tsp. prepared Earl Grey tea 1 tsp. long pepper, toasted and ground Lemon curd (recipe follows)

Set up a double boiler over medium-high heat. In a large bowl, whisk 6 ounces of lemon juice, zest of 1 lemon, 2 eggs, 7 egg yolks and ¾ cup sugar until pale and frothy. Transfer to the top pot of the double boiler and stir constantly until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Remove the pot from heat and whisk in ½ stick of cubed unsalted butter, cube by cube, until emulsified.

Transfer to a heatproof bowl, place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd and refrigerate until ready to use.

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home cooking Vegetize it: beef bourguignon

Bourguignon: French In Spirit, Vegetarian In Truth BY beth styles • Photo by Kristi Schiffman

classic has been revived, joining the ranks of haute cuisine and being relegated to that class of dishes set aside for special occasions – the season of which we are trekking through full steam. So let’s get to the dirty work, shall we?

Even in its carnivorous construction, this dish relies on developing complex flavors from herbs, aromatics and root vegetables, with the meat providing texture and moisture.

We’re going to follow this same approach, inviting our old friend seitan to stand in for the beef, as well as mushrooms and beets to provide deep color and textural variation. Most classic bourguignon recipes also call for some amount of bacon to fatten things up a bit. We’ll get our fat in the form of olive oil but don’t want to lose that bacon flavor, so we’re pulling out one of our most astounding vegetarian tricks: shiitake bacon. (Trust me on this one.)

N

o one sneers at vegetarian cooking like the practitioners of classic French cuisine. Their recipes are so sacred, their art so carefully considered, that any substitution is viewed as an insult to the French people as a whole.

Kelp powder in your veggie bouillabaisse? C’est scandaleux!

So when I was assigned boeuf bourguignon to vegetize, I turned to an old friend to help me get a handle on the spirit of

this continental conundrum: Julia Child’s 1961 classic, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. It’s here that Julia described this stew as “Certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man.”

On the surface, boeuf bourguignon is a simple redwine-and-beef stew, a peasant dish whose root vegetables and undistinguished cuts of meat reveal a surprising depth of flavor. In recent years, this

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A note on wine: The Burgundies from which the dish takes its name can be difficult to find and a bit pricey when you do. Of course, feel free to splurge on your robust red of choice (‘tis a season of joy, after all), but you have other options. Many recipes suggest subbing in any pinot noir, but I couldn’t shake the idea of Joël Robuchon’s heart breaking as a $2 California wine was poured into the pot.

Instead, opt for a French pinot noir from outside the Burgundy region or a cheaper Burgundy, if you can find one. I used the Louis Latour 2009 Pinot Noir Bourgogne (about $17), but anything in the $10 to $20 range should be fine.

Like many stews, this one actually gets better after a sleepover in the refrigerator. So go ahead, make dinner for your get-together the night before the big day; we won’t tell.

Vegetarian Bourguignon 6 Servings ½ lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin Olive oil 1 tsp. sea salt 8 oz. seitan, cubed 6 oz. baby bella mushrooms, quartered 1 Tbsp. butter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbsp. freshly chopped thyme 2 bay leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 15 pearl onions, peeled and thawed if frozen 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ lb. beets, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup Burgundy or French pinot noir 2 cups vegetable stock 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 Tbsp. arrowroot starch (optional) Parsley for garnish • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a bowl, combine the shiitakes with ¼ cup of olive oil and sea salt. Spread the mushrooms out on a baking sheet and let them roast in the

oven for 50 to 60 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are dehydrated and crispy.

Remove from the oven and set aside.

• Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the seitan and sear. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Add another tablespoon of oil to the Dutch oven and sear the baby bellas. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Heat the butter and another tablespoon of olive oil in the Dutch oven. Add the onions and saute until they start to soften. Add the garlic, thyme and bay leaves and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Saute for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the pearl onions. Saute for another 2 to 3 minutes, then add the carrots and beets.

Cook until the pearl onions begin to brown.

• Deglaze the Dutch oven with the wine and let cook until the wine reduces by half.

• Add the vegetable stock, lemon juice and tomato paste. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Let simmer until the vegetables are tender and the liquid has reduced by half, about 20 to 25 minutes.

• Add the reserved seitan and mushroom “bacon,” and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes.

If the sauce is not thick enough, add the arrowroot starch mixed with a dash of cold water.

• Right before serving, add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste.

• Serve over mashed potatoes or cooked egg noodles.

December 2012

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home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: eggnog

Get Your Nog In

By Ligaya Figueras, Meera Nagarajan and Stacy Schultz photo by Jonathan Gayman

A

s they say: What are the holidays without eggnog?

So you buy a quart of the seasonal stuff and there it sits in the fridge, barely sipped, well into the New Year. Instead of throwing out a near-full carton come January, fry it into French toast, bake it into rich cheesecake, even toss it with pasta. Here are three new takes on the requisite winter beverage that will make you finally understand what all the fuss is about – no ladle required.

1. FRENCH TOAST Pour 1 cup of eggnog into a large, shallow bowl.

Add 3 eggs, 2 pinches cinnamon, 2 pinches nutmeg and 1 pinch ground ginger. Whisk to combine. Heat ½ tablespoon of butter on a griddle over medium-high heat. Cut 6 thick slices of brioche.

Once the butter foams, emerge 1 brioche slice into the eggnog mixture and place on the hot griddle. Repeat with as many slices as will fit. When the bread browns on one side, about 2 to 4 minutes, flip and brown the other side. When it’s browned on both sides, transfer to a small plate. Repeat with the remaining slices. To serve, sift powdered sugar over the toast and top with a spoonful of warm cranberry-and-orange compote.

2. CHEESECAKE Place 1 cup of graham crackers crushed to the consistency of cornmeal in a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of sugar and 4 tablespoons of melted butter. Press the mixture into the bottom of a greased 9-inch springform pan. Place in the refrigerator. Using a stand mixer or food processor, beat 3 8-ounce packages of cream cheese, ½ cup of sugar and 3 tablespoons of all-purpose flour until smooth. Add 2 beaten egg yolks and mix until well-combined. Gradually beat in 1 cup of eggnog, 1 teaspoon of light rum and a generous dash each of nutmeg and cinnamon. Pour the filling over the cheesecake crust. Bake in a 325-degree oven for 45 minutes. Turn the oven off but keep the door closed. Leave the cake in the oven for 1 hour. Partially open the oven door and let the cake cool for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the cake cool to room temperature. Place in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours before serving.

3. RAVIOLI Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook 1 8-ounce package of butternut squash ravioli for about 1 minute less than the time listed on the package instructions. Set aside, reserving the pasta water. In a saute pan over medium heat, add ¼ cup each of heavy cream and eggnog, 3 torn sage leaves, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and 2 to 3 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese. Allow the mixture to reduce for about 3 minutes. Toss in the ravioli and let it cook in the sauce for about 1 minute. Dilute with ¼ cup of pasta water (or more to reach your desired consistency). Serve immediately.

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home cooking the new classics: rack of lamb

Rack of Lamb Courtesy of Paul Manno’s Paul Manno approximately 1 serving 1 loaf French bread (or store-bought unseasoned breadcrumbs) Juice of 2 large lemons 2 to 4 tsp. extra-light olive oil, plus more for coating Dried oregano to taste Dried rosemary to taste Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste ½ to 1 tsp. freshly minced garlic, depending on taste 10 to 12 caper berries Butter for coating the pan New Zealand baby rack of lamb, French cut • 1 day before you make the lamb, tear the French bread into pieces and leave out, uncovered, overnight.

• The next day, add the stale bread to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until you have crumbs. Set the breadcrumbs aside.

• Next, make the sauce: Pour the lemon juice into a small mixing bowl. Slowly pour in 2 teaspoons of olive oil, whisking aggressively to emulsify the sauce and tasting frequently to ensure that the lemon-to-oil ratio suits your taste. Add up to 2 additional teaspoons of oil if needed.

• To the sauce, add a pinch each of oregano, rosemary, salt and pepper. Whisk aggressively to combine. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

• Next, add ½ teaspoon of minced garlic and the caper berries. Whisk again and taste, adding an additional ½ teaspoon of garlic if desired.

Once the sauce is to your liking, set it aside.

• Preheat the broiler to medium-high and place an oven rack approximately 10 inches from the heat source. Lightly butter an oven-safe pan.

• Coat the lamb lightly with olive oil, then lightly dredge it in the breadcrumbs.

• Transfer the lamb to the buttered pan and place under the broiler, uncovered. For medium-rare, broil the lamb for 6 minutes on one side, turn over and broil for another 6 minutes.

• Once the lamb is done, place it on a large cutting board and let it rest for 3 to 4 minutes.

• Using a sharp steak knife, cut down between the bones. After all of the chops have been cut, fan them out on a plate, pour the sauce on top and serve.

Paul Manno’s, 75 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.878.1274

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Photo by jonathan gayman; illustration by vidhya nagarajan

Getting It Just Right “Since all of our recipes are passed down by my mom, no measurements are used – just your taste buds.

You want [the sauce] light so the fruitiness of the oil does not overpower the sauce. After you are happy with the lemon sauce taste, start whisking again and add your spices a pinch at a time, tasting frequently until the taste suits you. With the fresh garlic, start with half of a teaspoon first; you don’t want to overpower the sauce.” — Paul Manno, chef and co-owner

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December 2012

getting cheeky Tongue-in-cheek is no longer just a phrase. It’s dinner.

By Julie Cohen | Photos by Greg Rannells

Out of the Pot Roast

Little Country Gentleman 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com

December 2012

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Pig

Little Country Gentleman 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com

The first time I acutely remember eating pork belly was at Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York City. I ordered steamed pork buns as an appetizer and then, shamelessly, ordered them for dessert. After I tasted the fatty bacon steak, wrapped in a blanket of soft, springy dough, I wanted it in everything – at all times. Belly had become the cut for pork, and restaurants both nationally and locally were happy to perpetuate the trend. Even now, seven years after my first brush with belly, it can be found on dozens of menus around town. And while I still daydream about that fat-tastic, swoon-worthy cut of swine, pushing my palate beyond the typical taught me that, sometimes, the best cuts of meat can come from the most unexpected places. These days, even the belly might be taking a back seat, for it’s all about the cheek.

If the thought of eating the chubby cheeks of a pink piggy is slightly off-putting even though you devour its belly with abandon, you aren’t alone in your illogical conundrum. Many butchers and meat processors consider the head of animals to be throwaway meat. Ever seen those diagrams of pig and cow cuts? Often the entire head is summed up as “head” or “neck,” or is ignored altogether. Meatlovers want pigs’ tenderloin, shoulder and belly; from cows, they prefer the ribs, loin and round. Few – chefs included – are begging for cheek. Maybe it’s because the cheek, muscled from chomping, is tough and relatively lean and thus requires careful preparation. Or maybe it’s because many diners haven’t yet realized it’s a cut worth trying. Whatever the reason, there’s so little demand for this under-the-eye socket slip of inexpensive protein that you’d be hard-pressed to find it at any area butcher shop (Trust me, I’ve tried.). Yet the tide may be turning.

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Cheek is by no means a novel cut. Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu and owner of newly opened wine bar Olio and restaurant Elaia, was quick to remind me of Mario Batali’s wildly popular beef cheek ravioli that has been served at his restaurant, Babbo, since it opened in 1998. And any respectable taquería boasts tacos offering cachete de res, lengua de res and cabeza de res – beef cheek, tongue and head, respectively. Yet as Poremba related, “When you talk about cheek, people can think it’s kind of icky, but there’s a secret that’s just not spoken about.” At times, he explained, we’re eating it and just don’t know it. Some restaurants present it under the moniker “braised beef,” “braised pork” or barbacoa, bourguignon, even ragout.

“Instead of using short ribs or rump, [chefs] might use cheek meat because it has the best flavor and best price.” “Brasato?” he queried of the Italian word for “braise.” “It’s probably cheek, but when you give it a foreign name, it sounds sexier, you know?”

in a pomegranate molasses until it’s soft, tangy, sweet and juicy – yet still undeniably meaty.

“It’s always fun to marry the most extravagant cuts with the more humble,” explained Mike Randolph, who was working with cheek long before opening his evenings-only restaurant Little Country Gentleman this fall. For “Out of the Pot Roast” currently on LCG’s menu, Randolph brines beef cheek for 24 to 36 hours and then cooks it sous vide for another 18 to 20 hours. After shredding and seasoning, the cheek serves as the foundation for parsnip miso, root veggies, pearl onions, Maytag bleu cheese, a succulent slice of New York strip and pickled, slow-roasted slivers of tongue. A spattering of carrot greens finishes things off. Unlike its leaner pork counterpart, according to Randolph, beef cheek is “fatty, gnarly and needs T.L.C.” Was there enough loving care to render this cut tender? If taste equated money, Randolph’s roast would be pure gold: soft, melt-in-your-mouth succulent threads of juicy gold.

For another entree simply called “Pig,” Randolph uses the hog in every way imaginable on one long plate: smoked loin, fried chicharrón (cracklings), sous vide belly. The most intriguing element of the dish, though, is an unassuming fried cube that is, in fact, a distilled nugget of pork head.

To create this ultimate spread of head, Randolph turns to techniques he learned during his tenure at Chicago-based restaurant Moto, a leader in molecular gastronomy. First, he boils the hog’s whole head (cheeks, tongue and ears) with mirepoix before shredding and caramelizing it with shallots, ginger, jalapeños and fish sauce.

The mixture moves swiftly to the freezer – where the fat freezes and hardens – and then gets cubed, seasoned and fried up crisp. The end product takes more than two days to produce, but Randolph doesn’t mind. Being able to “broaden a diner’s horizons” with such arduous preparations is one of his favorite aspects of the job.

And once diners bite into that little bouillon cube – rich pork

But Poremba isn’t afraid to call a cheek a cheek. On Elaia’s a la carte menu, his “Beef ” entree will recurrently feature cheek that’s been braised for 36 hours

Soy- B r aised Por k Ch eek

Salt 4356 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.5787, enjoysalt.com

December 2012

B eef Tongu e

Elaia 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com

juices bursting and dancing with Vietnamese flavors – his passion becomes emphatically clear.

BUY IT: pork cheek Want to try braising your own pork cheek but can’t find it in St. Louis? Try Schubert’s Packing Co., in Millstadt, Ill., where Salt sources its cheeks. Make sure to call ahead though; Salt likes to buy the meat processor out whenever cheeks are available. A pound of pork cheek will run you about $2.50.

Schubert’s Packing Co., 700 S. Breese St., Millstadt, Ill., 618.476.1133, schubertspacking.com December 2012

While some chefs might shy away from a demanding ingredient such as cheek, its trying nature is one reason Bradley Hoffmann loves it.

“The meat itself has such a different flavor from the rest of the pig,” said Hoffmann, sous chef at Salt. “It has that gamey accent to it. It’s a beautiful flavor on its own, but part of it is the process. You can’t just sear it and throw it out there.

That would be like searing a brisket. It’s a lean meat; you really have to take your time with it.” Hoffmann attested to the love affair both he and Salt’s executive chef, Josh Roland, have with the meat. “The cheek is Josh’s baby,” Hoffmann noted.

“Josh is everything pig, always.”

For Salt’s “Soy-Braised Pork Cheek,” the tough cut gets braised with apple juice, herbs, soy sauce and bacon broth for six to seven hours. Three salty, sweet, fork-tender cheeks are then plated with a seasonal preparation like fall’s collection of baby spinach salad with fig vinaigrette, shaved celery and grilled apples. The result has become the most popular entree on Salt’s menu.

Eric “Ed” Heath, chef and coowner at Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Ill., also prepares pork cheek according to the seasons, currently joining two cheeks with ready-for-winter warm lentils, hunks of bacon, charred scallions and fresh tomatoes. “We’ve been seeing belly for a decade,” Heath said

in regard to the ever-expanding nose-to-tail trend. “I love that people are using more fun stuff.

There’s so much creativity going on.” Although the Berkshire cheeks that Heath uses are indeed lean, after braising them for two-and-a-half to three hours, they become soft and smooth, setting the tone for a beautiful dish that’s fatty, smoky, slightly gamey and perfectly balanced by the tomatoes’ acidity.

Heath and his partner, Jenny Cleveland, have also been making lamb tongue a special on the menu, preparing it with chickpeas, tomatoes, feta, mint and fresh chiles. Randolph and Poremba voiced their love for tongue as well, Randolph having played with cow tongue in tacos at his now-closed MEDIAnoche and occasionally adding it to Little Country Gentleman’s tasting menu as seen in the Out of the Pot Roast entree.

Poremba also isn’t afraid to claim this oft-forgotten section of the cow, which he described as “surprisingly tender and mildly flavored.” Currently at Elaia, he serves an appetizer of beef tongue that’s been sous vide or pressure cooked until it absolutely melts, joined by a complex burnt eggplant purée and a warm salad of cracked olives, fresh fava beans and a smoked paprika vinaigrette.

If the trend continues to grow, a little tongue-n-cheek might just become the new surf-n-turf – but Heath isn’t stopping there.

He loves to work with kidneys, livers, brains, sweetbreads and headcheese. How does he know when he’s gone too far? “On the line, we’ll always taste it to make sure it’s right,” he said, “but the last thing I want to do is convince someone to eat something. We’re all adults here.” Poremba agreed, “We will be using these cuts in everything as long as people will open up to them.” Yet, he reasoned, confidently, “They will.”

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winter’s hidd

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December 2012

ice cream Photo by kristi schiffman; fox theatre photo courtesy of fox theatre

en gems

Blame the cold weather (Hibernation, anyone?), but these days it seems like we can’t stroll past a concession stand without feeling snacky. And since a foodie has to eat – often, and with enthusiasm – we’re glad the indoor venues that entertain us through these coming cold months offer some delicious delights tucked among the Twizzlers. Here,

a few to seek out next time you’re out.

BY KELLIE HYNES

Fox Theatre

527 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.534.1678, fabulousfox.com

Even in this posh venue, we all scream for ice cream. The flavors of Webster Groves’ own housemade Serendipity Ice Cream ($5) are inspired by the shows. This month’s Wicked fans will enjoy Mint Chocolate Chip, which is probably way yummier than a scoop of Flying Monkey.

December 2012

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Powell Symphony Hall

Moolah Theatre

3821 Lindell Blvd., Midtown, 314.446.6806, stlouiscinemas.com

718 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.533.2500, stlsymphony.org

Waiting in line for a coveted love seat?

Pass the time with a pint-sized, cinemathemed cocktail ($6 to $8) from the movie mixologists at the full-service bar.

For dessert, skip the M&Ms and go straight to the STL-made Lake Forest Dark Chocolate Almonds ($5).

Chesterfield Galaxy 14 Cine

450 THF Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.532.8141, wehrenberg.com

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Popcorn? Or popcorn shrimp? The options are endless at the Galaxy, which boasts one of Wehrenberg Theatres’ Five Star Lounges. The s’mores ($5) get our vote: pillows of graham, chocolate and marshmallow, toasted in an oven and then smothered with powdered sugar. Warning: Ordering one will make you want 15.

breaded bliss photo by kristi schiffman; drink and s’mores photos by amy shromm

Truly the most swoon-worthy snack, Companion’s Breaded Bliss ($4) is art unto itself. Awesome fact: Concession stand employees break this sea-salty, dark-chocolate bark into bite-sized bits by tossing it over a hall balcony. (No, they don’t let you throw your own. We asked.)

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Landmark Plaza Frontenac Cinema

Hi-Pointe Theatre

210 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.994.3733, landmarktheatres.com

1005 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.995.6273, hipointetheatre.com

We get a kick out of the pink can of Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine ($5) and Velvet Rooster Belgian-style tripel ($4). But what really caught our eye was the shaker of nutritional yeast: a delicious salty/savory vegan topping that adds je ne sais quoi to your corn de pop ($3 to $5.50).

pretzels photo by laura miller; hot chocolate photo by amy shromm; cookie photo by kristi schiffman

You don’t need a movie ticket to buy from this upscale concession stand. The chocolate chip and ginger kiss cookies ($3) made by local artisan bakeshop SweetArt are the ultimate kid/spouse bribe when you’re schlepping through one last store.

The Pageant

6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.726.6161, thepageant.com

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Grab one of Mom’s Pretzels ($4) as an appetizer when you buy your tix at Suite 100.

Then ask the bartender for a Menu Book.

Your gyro/pizza/sub from your favorite Loop restaurant will be delivered during the show.

Peabody Opera House

1400 Market St., St. Louis, 314.499.7600, peabody operahouse.com

Seeing The Nutcracker this month or Sesame Street in January? Be sure to visit the hot chocolate bar ($3), where you can add marshmallows, peppermint sticks, whipped cream and other goodies to your sweet treat. And if the hordes of excited kids rattle your nerves, unwind with a liquor-enhanced adult coffee ($9).

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stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

Holiday Events at Eckert’s Dec. 1, 2, 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23, Eckert’s of Belleville, Belleville 618.233.0513 · eckerts.com They’re pulling out all the stops at Eckert’s for the holidays.

Gingerbread House Workshops are for both kids and adults, and all supplies are included. Breakfast With Santa includes a chance to beg Old St. Nick for material gain, gifts for each child, photos with Santa and breakfast including scrambled eggs, bacon, biscuits and house-made sausage gravy. Call for reservations.

Finally, Holiday Storytime for kids features the story of the gingerbread man, with an interactive gingerbread craft project for all comers.

Candlelight Christmas Walk Dec. 7 and 14 – 5 to 10 p.m., Mount Pleasant Estates, Augusta · 636.482.9463 mountpleasant.com More than a generation of Missourians has made merry at the annual Candlelight Christmas Walk at Augusta’s Mount Pleasant Estates. This year’s 30th annual walk will include festive luminaries, horse-drawn carriage rides, roasted chestnuts, and an antique trolley that delivers guests to area shops December 2012

and galleries offering stocking stuffers (and more substantial giftage). Offered on two weekends, the walk concludes with a rustic dinner buffet in the winery’s Terrace Ballroom. Guests can stuff themselves with shepherd’s pie, chicken Alfredo pasta, beer-cheese soup, smoked salmon and more. A cash bar offers wine, of course, including a variety of ports. Call for reservations.

A Wealth of Wellingtons Dec. 19 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., Kitchen Conservatory 314.862.2665 kitchenconservatory.com If you bring the beef Wellington, we’ll bring the fork. Tenderloin wrapped in buttery pastry is always a treat, but the crew at Kitchen Conservatory is offering a rare (beef pun) opportunity to learn how to make a number of delicious varieties of the dish. Instructor Barbara Nack will teach students how to prepare the classic beef Wellington made with pâté and Madeira mushroom sauce, along with a butternut squash-mushroom Wellington with goat cheese, mini shrimp Wellingtons with roasted red pepper sauce, a Wellington burger with freshground sirloin and crimini mushrooms, plus blueberry-vanilla cream cheese pies for dessert. Bring any of these to a holiday party, and the hosts will demand you return every year.

Festive Holiday Spirits Class Dec. 13 – 6:30 p.m., Bissinger’s at Maryland Plaza 314.615.2490 · bissingers.com At Bissinger’s Holiday Spirits Class, you do not guzzle and inhale – you sip and sup, on artisan liquors and eau de vie (clear fruit brandies) paired with exotic creations like chocolate-covered marzipan with bourbon and caramelized white chocolate semifreddo; olive oil cake; and roasted cranberries served with tequila.

You’ll sample a series of wild treats that might just inspire the menu for your own holiday party. Call for reservations.

Ugly Christmas Sweater Contest Dec. 8 – 7 to 9 p.m., Thurman Grill & Provisions 314.772.8484 thurmangrill.com One of our town’s bestest holiday traditions is the Ugly Christmas Sweater Contest held annually at Thurman Provisions & Grill. You know how ugly – damn ugly – a Christmas sweater can get. Well, the contestants in this uglyoff have been known to hit the sewing machine to take a merely offensive garment and turn it into a crime against the eyeballs. They then parade in front

of the other bar patrons, and everyone tries to keep it together while paroxysms of laughter and vicarious shame freeze them to the spot. The food-related fun happens two ways: Thurman’s passes around some festive apps like chocolatebourbon balls for everybody, and the winner of the contest gets a snow globe and a fruitcake that’s been soaking in liquor for days. Then the fruitcake gets set on fire. You got ugliness, you got fruitcake, you got fire, you got Christmas, baby.

Hanukkah Tasting Dec. 2 – noon to 3 p.m., Whole Foods of Town & Country 636.527.1160 wholefoodsmarket.com Will they be dancing the hora in the aisles of Whole Foods this month? Probably not, but the prepared foods department is proud of its potato latkes, fried and ready for the Hanukkah household that aims to bypass grease splatter. An informal sampling for those harbingers of children clutching their undeserved boodle for eight days straight takes place on December 2, and Hanukkah itself begins on December 9. Whole Foods lackeys will also offer samples of their spinach feta cakes. Burn, menorah candles, burn! saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47

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5 Questions for David Choi Seoul Taco co-owner David Choi built his food truck into one of the city’s most popular, then took a wild leap and opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant with the same name in The Loop this past fall. He still hits the road, though. In fact, one of his prize gigs is feeding the St. Louis Rams – a group whom he said can really put it away.

Seoul Taco 571 Melville Ave, U. City, 314.863.1148, seoultacostl. com, track the truck on Twitter @SeoulTaco

What did you do before you bought a food truck? [Co-owner] Andy [Heck] and I had to quit our jobs. I was a valet attendant at St. Mary’s Hospital, and Andy was in mortgages. I had just saved for six months to buy a car, and then to buy the truck, I had to sell it! We had to go to the East Coast to get the truck; we finally found it in Philadelphia.

I imagine you use Seoul Taco’s new brick-andmortar location’s kitchen to prep everything for the truck each day? Yes, that was one of the main purposes of getting the brick-and-mortar location, to cater the truck. Tomorrow we’re catering for the St. Louis Rams, and we need a commissary available at all times for things like that. We cater for them once or twice a month. We make a huge buffet for them. They eat tons of food. It’s ridiculous. We have bowls they can make on their own with all three barbecued meats we offer, and taco shells, too.

They all love the Seoul Sauce. They call it “the moneymaker.”

What’s in the Seoul Sauce? Mayonnaise is the base, and there are three other ingredients to make it spicy. I can’t tell you what those are – after all, it’s “the moneymaker”!

I understand your Korean bulgogi marinade is a family recipe? I learned it from my mom, and my grandma came in and tweaked it. And then I doctored it from my tastings, too.

– Byron Kerman

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Photo by amy shromm

Do you have a larger menu at the restaurant than on the truck? Yes, we have a new burrito with kimchi-fried rice, your choice of meat, scallions, carrots, two specialty sauces, sour cream and cheese. You can also get a side of kimchi-fried rice. We want to expand the menu more, with possibly more Korean foods.

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