H E L L O , L OV E R the darkness triple-chocolate croissant at la patisserie chouquette, p. 42
H I T
L I S T
PORANO PASTA
RAISE THE
L O A V E S
PART Y BAR
WE LOVE
P. 31
P. 28
P. 10 ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY
February 2016
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F E B R U A R Y 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 2 What do you cook to impress a date?
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St. Louis, MO 63103 February 2016
contents FEBRUARY 2016
editors' picks
27
MAKE THIS Cajun pasta
7
by dee ryan
EAT THIS Cannoli at Piccione Pastry
8
MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus
by kristin schultz
last course 40
STUFF TO DO by kristin schultz 42
10
WHAT I DO
HIT LIST 4 new restaurants to try this month
by heather hughes, catherine klene and kristin schultz
reviews
Patrick Devine of La Patisserie Chouquette
by heather hughes
13
Features
NEW AND NOTABLE
28
Tai Ke
by michael renner 16
LUNCH RUSH The Gramophone
by hilary hitchcock 19
NIGHTLIFE Yaquis on Cherokee
by matt berkley
dine & drink
LOAVES WE LOVE Proof that artisanal bread is on the rise in St. Louis
by meera nagarajan
31
PARTY BAR 9 bottles, 19 cocktails, $150, 1 hell of a party
by kristin schultz
36
DATE GREAT
21
From Tinder trysts to marriage proposals, here are seven spots to seal the deal.
A SEAT AT THE BAR
by holly fann
Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
by glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and ted and jamie kilgore 23
ELIXIR Aquavit ascending
by kristin schultz 24
VEGETIZE IT
COVER DETAILS The Darkness triple-chocolate croissant from La Patisserie Chouquette. Learn about Chouquette's assistant pastry chef Patrick Devine on p. 42.
three cup chicken at tai ke p. 13
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Vegan beignets
by kellie hynes
February 2016
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editors' picks
EAT THIS
The cannoli at Piccione Pastry are some of our favorite things. They literally come in brown packages tied up with string. Delicate fried pastry shells crumble like sugar cookies with each bite. They embrace dreamy sweetened ricotta filling in a variety of flavors like traditional, pistachio and gooey butter. Pick up some of each, and you’ll sing PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
like Julie Andrews, too.
PICCIONE PASTRY, 6197 DELMAR BLVD., UNIVERSITY CITY, 314.932.1355, PICCIONEPASTRY.COM
February 2016
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KEVI N WI L L M A N N It takes more than great food to make a great meal: Service, ambiance, company and cuisine all combine to create a dining experience. It is these experiences that have stuck with 2015 James Beard Award semifinalist and Farmhaus chef-owner Kevin Willmann. From Chicago to Florence, Italy to a picnic table in Greenville, Illinois, here are the meals that changed Willmann’s life. – Kristin Schultz
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(My wife and I) found this little, family-run restaurant across the park from where we were staying. … They sat us down between two tables. They had Jessica sit down and they brought this board and put it in between the two tables and brought a chair out of the back. Here we are packed into this already packed little tiny restaurant. We’re best friends now with the four people right next to us. I learned in Florence that they embrace the fact that, “This guy makes the best prosciutto. This guy makes the best mortadella.” … It opened my eyes to (the idea that) it’s OK to bring in the very best.
Greenville, Illinois, Childhood The more formative meals are the meals of my childhood with everybody getting
together for a harvest. All my aunts and my grandma would come over and pick all the beans from the garden in my dad’s backyard, and they’d sit there and can what seemed like 600 cans of beans. Then we’d go to Uncle Denny’s house and pick all of his corn. There were picnic tables full of shucked corn, and there were kids everywhere. I’m sure there were burned pork steaks and all of that. That’s the smell that goes along with the memory of being around the picnic table at the end of the summer and you have to get (all the produce) put away.
Schwa Chicago, Illinois, 2008 We went to Schwa at the time I was in Edwardsville, getting going. They were jamming Portishead full blast. The cooks were serving their own food. … The vibe was very much: This is who we are. You
were watching them make everything and bring it out to you. I knew we were going to be walking into a really great meal, but my idea of fine dining was completely blown away. It was gritty, raw and real. There was no fluff. That was a huge influence on me: It didn’t have to be perfect, but we can still do what we want to do. We can get started now. We don’t have to wait forever and save hundreds of thousands of dollars. There are ways to make this work.
Farmhaus, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com
February 2016
ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE
Alla Vecchia Bettola Florence, Italy, 2014
February 2016
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hit list
4 new restaurants to try this month
PORANO PASTA
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
After nearly a year of anticipation, James Beard Award-winning chef Gerard Craft opened doors at Porano Pasta, his first fast-casual venture and fifth restaurant. Step up to the counter in the bright, two-story space and mix and match from a plethora of bases like organic farro or house-made semolina pasta, 11 sauces from sugo to pumpkin seed and lime pesto, proteins including tender beef meatballs and slow-roasted pork or vegetables and toppings like crispy garlic and Pecorino Romano cheese. In additional to bowls, pick up an order of custom Companion foccacia bread with rotating toppings or a deep-fried Panzo – dough stuffed with anything from marinara and gooey mozzarella to meatballs and harissa, depending on the day’s special. And be sure to save room for a salted caramel gelato pop or a boozy frozen Negroni for dessert.
634 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6414, poranopasta.com
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Sushi rises again in Midtown. After the short-lived Flying Rolls shuttered last year, Midtown Sushi & Ramen took its place, offering everything from sushi rolls to ramen bowls. Start your meal with an appetizer of spicy kare-age, bite-sized pieces of fried chicken doused in a sweet-spicy house sauce and sprinkled with sesame. Share a sushi roll or two, like the well-composed Dragon Roll, featuring crab salad, cucumber and avocado topped with eel, eel sauce and threads of fried sweet potato, a light departure from the usual tempura crumbs. Complete your meal with a bowl of hakata ramen, featuring a custardy egg and smoked pork belly (thanks to neighbor Dixon’s Smokehouse) all swimming in a rich pork broth with all the ramen fixings.
MIDTOWN SUSHI & RAMEN
The owners of South Grand’s Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant are adding to the fastcasual trend with their new concept, Moya Grill in University City. The small, contemporary space in The Loop offers a variety of wot (stew) and tibs (grilled) dishes with chicken, beef and a good number of vegetarian options. Start with the crispy sambusas – both the lentil and beef versions are worth a try. Meat lovers should order the beef tibs and appreciate the deep heat of the house berbere spice blend. For a vegfriendly option, the mixed vegetable wot features a satisfying, boldly spiced mix of cabbage, potato and carrot. Opt for the traditional, tangy injera instead of rice and enjoy the chance to eat with your hands, tearing off pieces of the spongy flatbread and wrapping each bite of tibs and wot.
MOYA GRILL
PASTA PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS; PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
above, chef-owner gerard craft, left, and corporate chef michael petres at porano pasta / below, tibs and wot at moya grill
567A Melville Ave., University City, 314.833.6621, moyastl.com
Ramen has made its way to Clayton with stylish, fastcasual Nami Ramen. Co-owner Jason Jan was a passionate ramen home cook before spending two months researching in Yokohama, Japan. Now Nami offers 10 styles of ramen in a cool, 50-seat space. Grab a seat at the bar overlooking the kitchen and snack on pan-fried gyoza filled with ground pork and vegetables or a tender pork belly steamed bun with house-made sweet soy glaze. Nami’s savory, satisfying signature tonkotsu ramen features tender char sui pork, wood-ear mushrooms and a marinated egg with a creamy yolk. Don’t fear the spice warning on the jigoku ramen either. Miso broth topped with ground pork and corn is amped up with a paste of tomatoes, chiles and shallots. This bowl is more flavorful than fiery, and it makes a tasty introduction to the classic Japanese comfort food.
NAMI RAMEN
3647 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.2452, midtown-sushi.com
hakata ramen at midtown sushi & ramen
46 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.833.6264, namiramen.com
This month on Sound Bites, editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss Hit List Monday, Feb. 1 at noon on St. Louis on The Air. Then tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU later in the month when Hughes talks artisanal bread with Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery co-founder and baker Ted Wilson. February 2016
jigoku ramen at nami ramen
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
pork belly steamed buns at tai ke
new and notable Tai Ke BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
B
y the end of the long meal, sitting in the sparse, spotless space with our faces bathed in the unflattering fluorescence of hanging office lights, the consensus among the dinner party was unanimous: Tai Ke was the best Taiwanese food we’d ever eaten. Never mind the fact that most of us had never eaten Taiwanese food.
n e w a n d n o t a b l e TA I K E p . 1 3 / l u n c h r u s h T H E G R A M O P H O N E p . 1 6 / n i g h t l i f e YA Q U I S O N C H E R O K E E p . 1 9 February 2016
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Other hot wok entrees to share include the sizzling tenderloin beef, a dish that lived up to its name with tender slices of beef, onion and bell peppers bubbling on an iron plate of piquant black pepper sauce. The marriage of fried shrimp balls with pineapple and bell peppers under a drizzle of mayonnaise was a glorious union. Salt and pepper sauteed shrimp, lightly breaded and crispy, was no less glorious on its colorful bed of chopped bell peppers, garlic, onion and slivered scallions. Chile stir-fry chicken (There’s also a shrimp version.) certainly showed off its Szechwan roots, but it was the Hakka Stir-Fry that drew the The kitchen highest praise: at Tai Ke a deceivingly simple assembly of matchstick slivers of pork, squid and dried tofu tossed with celery and garlic that, in a single mouthful, concatenated flavors and textures so surprising, even the squidsqueamish at the table reached for more.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
We weren’t the only ones. Other diners, mostly Asians, perhaps more familiar with Taiwanese food, had similar happy, well-lit faces. Unlike Los Angeles and other cities with seemingly endless styles of Asian cuisine, Taiwanese is as rare as pro football around these parts. Although many restaurants have a dish or two, Tai Ke is St. Louis’ only restaurant specializing in the cuisine.
cuisines share ancestry, do not conflate the two – even Tai Ke’s signature dish, Three Cup Chicken. Technically, yes, the dish is from southern China, but it’s so popular in Taiwan that it may as well be the national dish. Taking its name from the main ingredients (sesame oil, rice wine and soy sauce), hacked up pieces of braised thighs and wings are simmered with ginger, roasted garlic cloves, chiles and Thai basil until the sauce is thick, velvety and fragrant. It’s a complexly flavored dish that’s both appealing and unwieldy – lots of nibbling around those sharp-edged bones. There’s also a tofu version that’s much gentler on the tongue.
Like all countries historically overrun by invaders and immigrants, Taiwan is a melting pot of cultures and culinary influences, first from China and later from Japan. So while Taiwanese and Chinese
AT A GLANCE Tai Ke
Where 8604 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.801.8894, Facebook: Tai Ke
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Don’t Miss Dishes Crispy pork chop platter, Hakka Stir-Fry, pork belly bun
Beef noodle soup, ubiquitous in Taiwan, makes a hearty meal on its own. Here, braised beef shank that I’ve found elsewhere to be gristly and chewy was as yielding to the bite as tenderloin, suffused in a dark, intensely flavored broth with threads of wheat noodles, rich with exotic notes of star anise and hints of red chile. Adventurous eaters will gravitate toward dishes like chitterlings (pig intestines) and pork blood soup; both ingredients are staples of Taiwanese cooking and not as intimidating as they sound. That soup, for instance, used congealed blood – think blood curd. All right, that may not help, so think dark red custardy cubes of tofu in a clear broth flavored with sa cha sauce (soy oil, garlic, chiles, garlic, shallots and dried shrimp) with pickled mustard greens and chives. The combination may be foreign to Western palates, but the cubes absorb the broth and have a subtle, metallic taste.
Vibe Spotlessly clean, modestly decorated room with a warehouse-like ceiling, hanging fluorescent lamps and endless smiles of satisfaction
As one diner commented, it’s a pretty innocuous way to eat blood. In addition to soups, noodles and hot wok entrees, the menu features the most well known aspect of Taiwanese eating: night market street snacks. Bao (steamed buns) are found on lots of non-Asian menus around town lately, reflecting the popularity of this simple snack. Consider them Asian sliders with a fluffy, clamshellshaped steamed bun. Or don’t consider, just order Tai Ke’s gua bao: a slab of slick, sweet pork belly with cilantro, ground peanuts, pickled mustard greens and a smear of a special sauce for about three bites of sweetly acidic, sour-ish perfection. The sticky rice hot dog looked as funny as its name: Sticky rice formed into a dugout canoe cradled a plump, juicy Taiwanese pork sausage drizzled with a ketchup-y sauce. Grilled to snap when bitten, the sausage held hints of sweetness and five-spice powder, with a texture that contrasted nicely with its lightly grilled, glutinous pedestal. Hard-boiled eggs marinated in soy and five-spice powder are a snacking staple; here, they’re sliced in half, drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce, topped with chopped scallions and gone in less than a minute. Tai Ke is located just south of Olive’s intersection with McKnight Road in a strip mall next door to Vietnamese restaurant Dao Tien. It’s a modest, brightly lit room that at first may seem off-putting, especially if you’re looking for ambience. But the welcoming staff and cheerful, attentive service, regardless of how busy it is, makes the room alive with warmth and chatter even on a dark winter’s night. In Taipei, bizarrely themed restaurants are a big thing, like a bathroom-themed eatery that plumbs the depths of absurdity. (Don’t ask. Really.) At Tai Ke, there is no need for such tomfoolery. It’s just a place that stays close to its Taiwanese roots, and the food speaks for itself.
Entree Prices $9 to $14. Street snacks and noodles are even cheaper.
When Tue. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m.; Sat. – noon to 11 p.m.; Sun. – noon to 10 p.m. February 2016
February 2016
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reviews LUNCH RUSH
Lunch Rush
THE GRAMOPHONE BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Once primarily known as a live music venue in the popular Grove neighborhood, The Gramophone now bills itself as a tavern/deli/ bottle shop. With orders taken at a bar, the restaurant is unlike most delis out there. But when a place serves lunch this good, who cares what it’s called? Sandwiches are filling, affordable and can be ordered in half portions, so try more than one. Here’s what to order:
THE MISSISSIPPI NIGHTS CLUB
THE FRENCHY With earthy but clean flavors, The Frenchy was an instant favorite. Flavorful chopped chicken is topped with melt-inyour-mouth bacon, Swiss cheese, red onions and portobello mushrooms on a sesame seed baguette from Fazio’s on The Hill. The subtle, mellow onion combines well with the mildly salty cheese, but mushrooms are the umami star of the show in this tasty sandwich.
Much like its late, lamented namesake, The Mississippi Nights Club has a style and personality all its own. With a traditional base of sliced turkey, roast beef and bacon, this club gets an added punch of heat and texture from spicy red pepper spread, creamy pepper mayo and smashed Billy Goat Kicker chips in the sandwich.
The Gramophone 4243 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.531.5700, gramophonestl.com
THE ALCATRAZ
POTATO SALAD
THE DOWNSIDE
Another winner, The Alcatraz is a warm pressed sandwich with tender, delectable chopped roast beef, melty Swiss and Provel cheeses, sweet (but not too sweet) caramelized onions and house Boss Sauce, which is a chipotle Thousand Island dressing. Garlicbuttered sourdough bread contains this glorious
I often find deli potato salad a letdown (They all taste the same!), but the housemade potato salad at The Gramophone was a welcome and unexpected hit. The mayo-based salad is smoky and has a little kick, thanks to the addition of green onions, jalapenos and cilantro. I couldn’t wait to go back and order it again.
The Gramophone’s sandwiches are wrapped in foil and served with a stack of napkins, so things can get a bit messy dining in. It would be better to provide a tray or a paper plate. The one sandwich I’d avoid is The Veggie. Primarily lettuce, tomato and cucumber on sourdough, it tasted like a boring Greek salad on toast.
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potato salad
mess of a sandwich. It might not hurt to tuck a napkin in your collar. (I did.)
February 2016
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nightlife
reviews
yaquis on cherokee
NIGHTLIFE
BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
$6, along with another dozen or so bottles and cans. But Yaquis’ most expansive selection is by-the-glass pours of vino at an approachable $7 to $11. The wine list is awash with California pinot noirs, French Burgundies, white Bordeauxs and Côtes du Rhônes, super Yaquis on Tuscans, rosés, ports and Cherokee Rieslings. Unsure what 2728 Cherokee St., to pair with a pizza? St. Louis, 314.400.7712, Servers are more than yaquisoncherokee.com happy to let you sample a wine before ordering. Try the fruity, dark red, medium-bodied Steele Cabernet Franc from California.
C
runchy, flame-touched cheesy slices of pizza are washed down with tall glasses of luscious wines and superb, no-nonsense cocktails at Yaquis on Cherokee. Here are a few reasons why this saloon at the epicenter of Cherokee Street’s vibrant food and drink scene deserves your attention. The Space In one of the city’s most eclectic and colorful entertainment districts, Yaquis is more warm and stylish than avantgarde. Bright exposed brick walls and dark wood floors help produce a welcoming vibe, while mismatched chairs hint that the joint isn’t cookie-cutter. A row of Edison bulbs caged in industrial whisks hangs above the long slab of a wooden bar that dominates the comfortable little watering hole. Adjacent to an oversized print of February 2016
The Food The single-page evening menu is simple. Satisfying handmade, 14-inch, wood-fired pizzas are available with your choice of house-made sauces (a traditional red, an olive oil-based blanca or a mixture of both) along with toppings like housesmoked barbecue chicken, pine nuts, gourmet sausage and additional regular players. If you try the kitchen’s Margherita, sprinkled with fresh basil, customize by piling on more toppings, since the pizza by itself comes off a bit bland. The remainder of the menu is dominated by small plates. The well-rounded Yaqui Platter features a variety of cheeses, salami, olives, dried fruits and nuts. Like the menu, service is casual but sharp. Pizzas arrive just in time for your second drink. Josephine Baker, a massive chalkboard lists the wine offerings. Enormous bicycle wheel clocks set to St. Louis, New York and Paris times hang on the far wall, and black-andwhite concert photos of artists like Jim James and Alabama Shakes look down on wood tables opposite the bar. The Drinks Not having a set cocktail menu allows Yaquis’ bartenders to focus on classics in a made-to-order fashion. Service may not be the fastest (bartenders double as tableside waitstaff), but the results are ice-cold, dead-on and worth waiting for. Standbys like Old-Fashioneds and bloody marys are served up with satisfying layers of delicate flavor. Frosty pints of excellent local brews like 4 Hands Single Speed, Perennial Saison de Lis and Urban Chestnut STLIPA are available for $5 to
The Scene In addition to being a pizza joint and wine bar, Yaquis also plays host to live music acts – mainly jazz and blues bands. When there isn’t live music, upbeat, jam band tunes rock out of speakers. Expect to hear Jimi Hendrix, The Allman Brothers, Stealers Wheel, The Eagles and maybe the odd John Lennon song, depending on the bartender. During early evenings, Yaquis feels like a date spot. As the night goes on, welcoming laughter emanates from regulars and locals, who are happily greeted as they pass through the front door. By 9 p.m. on a Saturday, there isn’t a free stool at the bar – the place is packed with laid-back, casually dressed 20- to 50-somethings. While it may not be the hottest nightspot in town, Yaquis has a friendly glow, well tended by an enthusiastic crowd.
ORDER IT: Yaquis on Cherokee
A classic Old-Fashioned from the bar at Yaquis.
Try the Margherita pizza with an added topping of prosciutto.
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dine
& drink
Check out the Kilgores' pick of pre-dinner sippers with big flavor.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake The 2013 Jean-Louis Chave Côtes-duRhône Mon Coeur from the south of France is perfect for Valentine’s Day. Mon coeur translates to “my GLENN BARDGETT heart,” after all. The Member of the Missouri Wine Syrah-dominant blend is and Grape Board and wine like a brawny pinot noir director at Annie Gunn’s – fruity and spicy with soft tannins and endless food compatibility. As Sinatra might say, “lovely to look at, delightful to nose and heaven to drink.” $20. Lukas Wine & Spirits Superstore, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com February 2016
Some of the best beers in the nation aren’t rare special releases. Many of our favorite beers are the ones you’ll find on grocery store shelves CORY AND all year long. The KAREN KING Sierra Nevada Pale Co-owners at Side Project Ale smells of fresh Brewing and The Side grapefruit, but is really Project Cellar balanced and easy to drink. If you like something darker, Deschutes Obsidian Stout is rich and full of espresso and dark chocolate notes. Six-packs of both can usually be found in our home fridge year-round.
The Contratto Aperitif and Contratto Bitter are two of our new favorite pre-dinner sippers. The Aperitif is a lovely orange, lighter offering with fresh, bright notes of candied orange fruit, rhubarb and hints of floral and citrus. The Bitter TED AND JAMIE is dark red and bolder with KILGORE orange, stone fruit, a touch USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart of vanilla, and a lingering, and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House pleasantly bitter finish. Each packs a bounty of flavors in every sip. Tasty by themselves, both are also delightful with sparkling wine. $30 each. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
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A Q U A V I T
ASCE N D I N G
COCKTAILS
MEET THE SPIRIT OF THE NORTH BY K R I S T I N S C H U LT Z Korean soju. Japanese sake. Kentucky bourbon. Every region has its spirit, and if your lineage comes by way of Scandinavia, aquavit is your official libation. Less ubiquitous than other kinds of clear booze, this mermaid is a neutral distilled spirit (like vodka) infused with botanicals and herbs (like gin). While the dominant flavor of gin is piney juniper, aquavit’s is piquant caraway with background notes of dill, cumin, coriander and fennel, finishing with a light citrus.
The North Wind aquavit cocktail at Reeds American Table
No longer just for fjord-fancying Norsephiles, the northern spirit is now popping up in cocktails and bottle shops closer to home. Many domestic distillers, like Portland’s House Spirits and Chicago’s North Shore Distillery, have started to produce and distribute North American versions of the increasingly popular food-friendly liquor.
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
If you want to pick up a bottle of your cool new Nordic friend, try Linie Aquavit. $30. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345, starr1.com
First arriving on the scene in the 15th century, aquavit means “water of life” and was long thought to be a cureall for most any ailment including, ironically, alcoholism. (FYI: It’s not.) Recipes vary from Norway to Denmark to Sweden, but wherever you find yourself in Scandinavia, the toast is the same. To imbibe properly, you must first hold your glass at chest level. Look your drinking buddy directly in the eye, throw back the drink, then return your glass to chest level and resume eye contact. Skål! If you want to give this Scandi spirit a go, aquavit enthusiast Matt Osmoe of Blood & Sand said to pick up a bottle of Linie Aquavit. “It’s great by itself and stands up well in cocktails,” Osmoe said. “The flavor profile is very true to tradition.” Linie is Norwegian for line – referring, in this February 2016
case, to the equator. The brand is ocean-aged: distilled, barreled in sherry casks and put on a ship that sails to and from Australia, crossing the equator twice. Both romantic tradition and effectual process for mellowing a straightfrom-the-still product, the result is a spicy caraway start with a dry finish. Try a glass straight up, or mix an aquavit Negroni and pair with smoked salmon, potatoes and dill or, if you’re feeling particularly Nordic, pickled herring. If you’d like to dip your toe before diving into the water of life, try aquavit in a cocktail when you’re out on the town. Osmoe has a triumvirate of aquavit-based
cocktails available at Blood & Sand, or look for Ted Kilgore’s aquavit bloody mary, the Bloody Well Right, at Planter’s House and Jeffrey Moll’s Collins-like Madam I’m Adam at Randolfi’s. If you only try one, get Richard Vagnino’s The North Wind at Reeds American Table: a shaken, purposefully ungarnished mix of North Shore aquavit, lime juice and house-made black pepper and caraway syrup. With a slightly sweet nose, a bright spiciness, and a light and dry finish with underlying warmth, it’s a great way to say hej, hallå and hallo to aquavit. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
VEGETIZE IT
Vegan Beignets BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
M
ardi Gras is my reward for surviving the winter holidays. Instead of obligatory gift giving and awkward work parties, it’s an unrestrained celebration of goodwill toward fellow humans, illustrated by the dispensing of beaded necklaces, heady beverages and witty banter in the porta-potty line. In honor of the Grand Parade (which I’m missing due to being old my kids’ basketball games) I’m making vegan beignets.
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Beignets are fried bubbles of sweet dough, covered in unapologetic mounds of powdered sugar. They are the official state doughnut of Louisiana, and a bucket-list purchase at New Orleans’ famed Café du Monde. To make an egg- and dairyfree version that’s as decadent as the real deal, I started at the beginning: with flour. Flour contains protein. Add liquid, and the protein transforms into gluten. More protein equals more gluten, equals more chewiness. For a sturdy beignet that could stand up to a deep-fry, I picked protein-rich bread flour for my first attempt. The results were like a fried baguette – delicious, but too heavy to feel authentic. On the opposite side of the protein spectrum, self-rising flour gave me substantial, yet tender beignets. As a bonus, self-rising flour contains dashes of salt and baking powder, which work with the yeast to add extra fluffiness. If you would rather spend your cash on zydeco downloads instead of niche flours, simply use all-purpose flour with an extra pinch of salt, enjoy your medium-dense beignets, and move on. Regular readers know that coconut milk is my go-to rich and creamy vegan milk substitute. Here it works like a Jello shot: sweet and effective, adding a hint of coconut that deepens the flavor profile. What failed like a three-wheeled parade float was my usual flaxseed and water egg substitute. Beignets made with that had an aftertaste charitably described as icky. Instead, I used Ener-G Egg Replacer, found in the gluten-free aisle of most grocery stores. I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t used Ener-G because of my mistaken assumption that it’s a
February 2016
processed Frankenfood. Au contraire, it’s a helpful combo of not-scary potato and tapioca starches that lightened my beignets with no off-taste. The dough in this recipe is supersticky, so a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment works best for kneading. Alternatively, you can Google the “slap and fold” technique, which sounds like a bar fight, but is just a way to hand-knead heavily hydrated dough. In both cases, the kneading time will vary depending on the humidity and your sobriety. You’ll know the kneaded dough is ready to rest when it stretches without tearing, a little test super-bakers call the “window pane technique.” Then you’re just a rise and fry away from fresh hot beignets, a worthy Mardi Gras celebration for the parade in your own kitchen.
VEGAN BEIGNETS
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4 DOZEN 1½ cups plus ¼ cup warm water, divided 1 packet (¼ oz.) active dry yeast 1 Tbsp. Ener-G Egg Replacer 1 cup coconut milk, whisked to incorporate the coconut cream and water ½ cup organic granulated sugar ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 8 cups self-rising flour* 2 tsp. canola oil, plus more for frying 1 cup organic powdered sugar for dusting • Pour 1½ cups warm water (100 to 110 degrees) into the bowl of
•
a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water and let it dissolve. In another bowl, whisk together the Ener-G Egg Replacer and the remaining ¼ cup warm water, then add the coconut milk, granulated sugar, salt, vanilla and cinnamon. Turn the mixer on low and add the coconut milk mixture to the yeast and water. Add the flour ½ cup at a time. Continue to mix on low 10 minutes, until you can stretch a small ball of dough with your fingertips without tearing it. The dough will still be quite sticky. Grease a large, nonreactive bowl with 2 teaspoons canola oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning it so the dough becomes covered with a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rest 2 hours in a draft-free place. Sprinkle a cutting board with a little flour. Place the rested dough on the cutting board and roll it out into a ¼-inch thick slab. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the dough into 1½- to 2-inch squares. In a deep, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, warm 3 inches canola oil to 350 degrees. Working in batches, gently place the dough pieces into the hot oil. Cook the beignets 2 to 3 minutes, turning them once, until they puff up and are golden brown. Carefully remove the beignets from the hot oil and drain them on paper towels until they are cool enough to touch. Serve warm with a generous dusting of powdered sugar.
* If substituting all-purpose flour, add an additional ½ teaspoon salt.
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MAKE THIS CAJUN PASTA ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES
MAKE THIS St. Louisans find their inner Cajun each year at Mardi Gras, but we also have a strong Italian heritage. Combining these two culinary juggernauts is as simple as this dish. To a large skillet over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, then saute 1 small chopped onion, 1 sliced green bell pepper, 1 sliced red bell pepper, 2 cloves minced garlic, 12 ounces thinly sliced andouille sausage and 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning until the onions become translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in 1 cup white wine and 2 tablespoons tomato paste, then cook until the sauce reduces by half, about 3 minutes. Add 1 pint heavy cream, bring to a low boil then turn down the heat to low and let the sauce reduce about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare 1 pound farfalle or campanelle pasta according to package directions. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning if needed, then remove from heat. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Serve topped with Parmesan cheese. – Dee Ryan
To create your own version of Cajun seasoning “Bam!” combine ¼ cup smoked paprika, ¼ cup kosher salt, 2 tablespoons each freshly ground black pepper, ground white pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, 1 tablespoon each thyme, cayenne, brown sugar, and 1 teaspoon each turmeric, cumin, mace and celery salt.
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five. Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.
February 2016
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l ove LOAVES WE
Small-scale bakeries are changing the St. Louis bread scene in a big way. Diving deep into the bread rabbit hole – from swapping commercial yeast for natural leavening to riffing on traditional recipes with unexpected ingredients – these five bakeries produce loaves with more complex flavor and superior texture. Here, proof that artisanal bread is on the rise. – Meera Nagarajan
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UNION LOAFERS CAFE AND BREAD BAKERY Picking out a loaf at this bakery is foolproof. Every one at Loafers is nothing short of excellent. Cutting the crusty dark and mild reveals big pockets of air resulting from the fermentation that delivers a complex, almost beer-like flavor. The caraway rye is even more intense with additional nuttiness and the bittersweet spice of caraway. Even the baguette has an unexpected depth of flavor. Prices vary. 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
J. DEVOTI GROCERY
LOAVES FROM UNION LOAFERS CAFE AND BREAD BAKERY February 2016
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
J. Devoti’s rich and cake-like brioche has a yellow crumb as sunny as a June day from its abundance of egg yolks and butter. It would be ideal for BLTs, PB&Js or simply toasted with butter. The boule also shouldn’t be missed. This highhydration loaf translates to a custardy crumb and a crackling, burnished crust. Shop open Saturdays, otherwise call for availability. Brioche: $8. Boule: $6. Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com
TRUFFLES BUTCHERY The dense and funky fermented country loaves made by Truffles’ baker Cesar
Calderon have piqued our interest. The confit orange took us by surprise with a sophisticated sweetness, as did the rosemary bacon, which was smoky and herbaceous with a spicy finish. Varieties rotate. Look for other adventurous versions like beet and blue cheese and turmericKalamata. $6. 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com
WINSLOW’S HOME The focaccia at Winslow’s is spongy with grassy, spicy notes from a glug of olive oil and a subtle flavor boost from rosemary and freshly ground black pepper. This soft bread is topped with a showering of crunchy sea salt for added bite. $4. 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com
4 SEASONS BAKERY After you try a pastry or two (you won’t be able to resist), order one of the bronzed loaves on offer. We particularly like the tangy ciabatta. This soft, airy bread is perfect slathered with butter or any cheese that involves the words triple creme. Fridays and Saturdays only. $4. 2012 Campus Drive, St. Charles, 314.288.9176, 4seasonsbakery.com *In late February, 4 Seasons Bakery will change its name to Sucrose and move to 700 S. Fifth St. in St. Charles.
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party bar 9 bottles, 19 cocktails, $150, 1 hell of a party BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS
collins recipe on p. 35 February 2016
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What you need to bring the cocktail party home
Base Spirits Eclipse Restaurant’s bar manager Seth Wahlman recommended these bottles because they’re affordable, work for mixing into cocktails and are also good to enjoy on their own. * Broker’s London dry gin * Rittenhouse rye whiskey * El Dorado 5-year aged rum
Mixers and Garnishes * Angostura bitters * Sweet vermouth * Dry vermouth * Campari * Grenadine * Simple syrup (1 part sugar dissolved in 1 part water) * Fresh-squeezed lemon juice * Lemon peel * Club soda * Ice * Sugar cubes
Equipment * Jigger * Boston shaker * Long-handled spoon
All bottles and bar supplies are available at Randall's Wine & Spirits. 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199; 14201 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.527.1002, shoprandalls.com
February 2016
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“My favorite party drinks have preparations that don’t change according to the spirit, such as an Old-Fashioned, Sours and Daisies.” – Justin Cardwell BC’s Kitchen general manager
daisy cocktail recipe on p. 35
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recipes Courtesy of Eclipse Restaurant’s Seth Wahlman
Old-Fashioned
2 oz. club soda Lemon peel for garnish
1 SERVING 1 sugar cube 2 dashes Angostura bitters 2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum) Lemon peel for garnish • Place the sugar cube in a rocks glass, soak with the bitters, then muddle with a spoon. Add a large ice cube, pour in the spirit and stir. Garnish with the lemon peel.
• Combine the spirit, lemon juice and simple syrup in a shaker ¾ full with ice and shake 10 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice, top with the club soda and garnish with the lemon peel.
Boulevardier 1 SERVING
Sour Family 1 SERVING 1½ oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum) ¾ oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. simple syrup • Pour all ingredients in a shaker ¾ full of ice and shake 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.
Daisy Cocktails 1 SERVING 2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum) 1 oz. lemon juice 1 tsp. grenadine ½ tsp. simple syrup Club soda • Pour the spirit, lemon juice, grenadine and simple syrup in a shaker ¾ full of ice and shake 10 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice and top with club soda.
Collins
1 oz. rye whiskey 1 oz. Campari 1 oz. sweet vermouth • Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.
Martini 3 oz. gin ½ oz. dry vermouth Lemon peel for garnish • Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, and garnish with the lemon peel.
Manhattan 1 SERVING 2 oz. rye whiskey or rum 1 oz. sweet vermouth 2 dashes Angostura bitters Lemon peel for garnish
1 SERVING 2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum) 1 oz. lemon juice ½ oz. simple syrup February 2016
old-fashioned
1 SERVING
Old Pal 1 SERVING 1 oz. rye whiskey 1 oz. Campari 1 oz. dry vermouth
Negroni 1 SERVING
• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.
Americano 1 SERVING
• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, and garnish with the lemon peel.
• Fill a Collins glass with ice, add Campari and vermouth, then top with club soda.
1 oz. Campari 1 oz. sweet vermouth Club soda
1 oz. gin 1 oz. Campari 1 oz. sweet vermouth • Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice.
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date great
From Tinder trysts to marriage proposals, here are seven spots to seal the deal. – Holly Fann
BAR LES FR ER ES
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TINDER DATE
SMALL BATCH
A candlelit whiskey bar is just the place for a Tinder date. Small Batch’s sleek, long bar won’t leave you awkwardly searching for a seat, and with a menu including more than 100 whiskeys, ryes and bourbons from every corner of the globe, anyone can find the right fire water to help loosen up. There is also a dynamic, vegetarian menu on offer – but dinner may not be your goal tonight. Read the entertaining free association whiskey descriptions to get the conversation going with your date, and choose a flight to try. The romantic lighting and expansive space are suited to escaping with – or, if necessary, away from – a Tinder match. S M A L L B AT C H
PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN; ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
3001 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.380.2040, smallbatchstl.com
PROPOSAL DATE
BAR LES FRERES
Engagements inspire people to patronize stuffy establishments where waiters place napkins in laps and walls are lined with gilded paper. But unless this is how you roll on a typical Saturday night, a proposal in that atmosphere can seem a bit chilly, not to mention painfully obvious. Bar Les Freres manages to exude romance without feeling formal or stiff. The intimate, relaxed restaurant is furnished with overstuffed antique settees and marble-topped tables. The menu starts with an outstanding wine and cocktail selection and is full of classic French dishes like a sublime duck confit with celeriac and Brussels sprouts and an ethereal Gruyere souffle. Popping the question will seem like the natural thing to do. 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, barlesfreres.net
February 2016
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OW NER T ED K ILGOR E TENDING BAR IN THE B U L L O C K R O O M AT PL A NT E R'S HOUSE
FIRST DATE
PLANTER’S HOUSE
Embodying both sophistication and a lack of pretension, Planter’s House hits the right note for a first date. With the support of a little libation, you’ll be ready for anything – and it’s a place where you can steer your evening in any direction. Order a single gin-based Going Dutch cocktail and part with an awkward hug, or direct your date to the intimate Bullock Room and share an order of baconfilled gougères to go with a couple boozy Winner Winner Whiskey Dinner cocktails. Feed your date the toasted marshmallow-topped creme brulee, and all you’ll need is an Uber to end the evening. 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
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DOUBLE DATE
ORBIT PINBALL LOUNGE
Orbit Pinball Lounge offers a bustling weekend crowd and casual bar along with a dozen or so pinball games and SkeeBall lanes. The front room has candlelit, cozy booths where you can actually hear each other speak over the din of ringing game bumpers and bells. Order off the bartenders’ chalkboard menu of creative nightly cocktail specials and share a pizza or two. Conversation getting too political? Change out bills for quarters and spend some time working your hips against a pinball game or competing in a Skee-Ball throwdown with your date. 7401 Hazel Ave., Maplewood, 314.769.9954, Facebook: Orbit Pinball Lounge
CO-WORKER DATE
THE LIBERTINE
“Let’s get dinner sometime” can be either a benign or loaded offer, especially when coming from a co-worker. At February 2016
The Libertine, you can easily keep the mood friendly and professional or move towards romantic and flirty. With a lively, busy atmosphere and a gracious waitstaff, whichever way you direct the evening will seem natural. Warm up with an intoxicating cocktail, then decide whether you want to lean in towards your office mate over that cozy shared polenta or just order the poutine, unconcerned about spilling a little foie gras gravy on your shirt, and call it a night.
T HE LIBERT INE
7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com
ANNIVER S ARY DATE
STONE SOUP COTTAGE
After years together, you have a good idea of what your partner will order. Celebrate with the guarantee of a superior meal and the opportunity to share a unique experience, without going to the same old specialoccasion-only restaurants. This year, take a leisurely drive out to Cottleville and enjoy the exceptional six-course tasting menu with wine pairings at Stone Soup Cottage. With it’s bucolic scenery and intimate, 40-person dining room, it delivers a unique fine-dining experience. Be sure to plan well in advance, as reservations can fill up months ahead. 5809 State Highway N., Cottleville, 636.244.2233, stonesoupcottage.com
BREAKUP DATE
STRANGE DONUTS
Breaking up with someone can be messy: accusations, tears, yelling – even walkouts. If you must break up, choose a place with a quick exit strategy that’s still tasty and not too mean-spirited. At Strange Donuts, buy your soon-to-be ex a gooey butter cake doughnut or sweet and salty maple bacon doughnut and, after leaving the counter-service shop, drop the news softened by a sugar high. You may have broken a heart, but at least you didn’t leave a bad taste in his mouth. 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.com
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stuff to do:
FEBRUARY BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ
You’ve Been Murdered, Charlie Brown Feb. 5 – 6 to 9 p.m., Little Hills Winery & Restaurant, 501 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.946.9339, littlehillswinery.com The beloved comic strip character has met his end. Can you solve the crime in just three courses? Start with a Caesar salad, then enjoy a main course of roasted chicken with wheat berry pilaf and grilled asparagus. A sweet finale of chocolate roulade and Chantilly cream will finish the meal at this dinner and whodunit. Tickets available online.
Maple Sugar Festival Feb. 6 – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Rockwoods Reservation, 2751 Glencoe Road, Wildwood, 636.458.2236, mcd.mo.gov/ node/32161 Bring the family and learn about Missouri’s tradition of maple syrup. Explore tapped trees and watch as the liquid gold is collected. See how early American settlers boiled down sap and compare that to more modern methods. Sample the finished sticky syrup, pure maple sugar or maple syrup on shaved ice, then ride that sugar high with grub from the Vincent Van Doughnut food truck, or opt for more savory fare from Pyro Pizza.
Ferguson Indoor Farmers Market Feb. 20 – 9 a.m. to noon, St. Stephen’s Church, 33 N. Clay Ave., Ferguson, 314.521.0138, fergusonfarmersmarket.com Farmers don’t hibernate, and neither should you. The indoor farmers market will be bustling with vendors and farmers like EarthDance Farms, Circle B Ranch and Great Harvest Bread Co. Stop by Just Omelets to dig into made-to-order breakfast and fuel up for a morning of farm-fresh shopping.
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Untamed Hearts: An Intimate Valentine’s Day Dinner Feb. 12 and 13 – 6:30 to 10 p.m., Saint Louis Zoo Lakeside Cafe, 1 Government Drive, St. Louis, 314.646.4897, stlzoo.org Calling all lovebirds: Don your finest plumage and enjoy a four-course meal with your favorite snuggle bunny. A bottle of wine is included with your meal that begins with beet chips with thyme-balsamic goat cheese and is followed by a salad. Choose an entree of braised short ribs, crab-stuffed lobster or a roasted vegetable terrine, then finish with a raspberry and dark chocolate flourless torte. Learn about animal attraction and enjoy after-dinner dancing. Call for reservations.
Centennial Beer Festival Feb. 26 – 6 to 9 p.m. and Feb. 27 – 2 to 5 p.m. and 6 to 9 p.m., Moulin Events & Meetings, 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, centennialbeerfestival.com Sample more than 200 beers from our own backyard and around the country as more than 80 breweries gather to show off their suds. Sip on brews from 25 local and regional players like Modern Brewery, Cathedral Square and Piney River, then check out offerings from out-of-towners like Oskar Blues, Firestone Walker and Boulevard Brewing. Vote for your favorite homebrew in Friday’s competition or spring for the VIP experience in the Malt House Cellar on Saturday. Tickets online and at the door.
Garland Wines Experience Wine Classes Feb. 2, 9 and 16 – 7 to 9 p.m., Garland Wines, 11 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves, 314.961.9463, garlandwines.com Spend three February nights sipping and learning about vino from around the world. February 2016
Find out what makes German wines unique, sample domestic varieties from California and say, “Ooh la la!” to French wines. These classes are available individually or at a discounted rate when you RSVP for all three. Reservations available by phone.
sponsored events Soirée pour la Vue: An Evening for Sight Feb. 5 – 6 to 10 p.m. Palladium St. Louis, 1400 Park Place, St. Louis, 618.394.6447, mindseyeradio.org/soiree The 13th annual Soirée pour la Vue features an auction and Cajun-inspired dinner buffet from Butler’s Pantry. Enjoy an open bar while you dance the night away to jazz band The Original Knights of Swing. The Mardi Gras-themed event raises funds for Minds Eye Information Service, which provides radio-reading services for the blind. Tickets available online.
Opera Theatre’s Annual Wine & Beer Tasting Feb. 12 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., Sally S. Levy Opera Center, 210 Hazel Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.4229, experienceopera.org Support the arts at Opera Theatre’s annual wine and beer tasting. The evening will feature beers from Grey Eagle Distributors and wine from bars like Cafe Napoli, Bar Italia and Robust. Snack on hors d’oeuvres from Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, LoRusso’s Cucina, Sqwires, Three Kings Public House and Vin de Set, and enjoy selections from Kaldi’s Coffee and Kakao chocolates. Tickets available online or by phone.
And in This Corner … Cassius Clay Weekends from Feb. 12 to 28 – times vary, Lee Auditorium at the Missouri History Museum, 5700 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.7414, cassiusproject.com Metro Theater Company presents And In This Corner … Cassius Clay, a play by Idris Goodwin at the Missouri History Museum. Based on the life of a young Muhammad Ali, the play tells the story the young boxer’s struggles and triumph over racism and segregation. Show times and ticket information are available online or by calling the Metro Theater Box Office. February 2016
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Patrick Devine
With a last name like Devine, this pastry chef was born to make dessert. Today, you can find Patrick Devine turning out French confections as assistant pastry chef of Simone Faure’s La Patisserie Chouquette in Botanical Heights. Here, he shares his love of challenging technique and crowd-pleasing sweets. – Heather Hughes
Why work with pastry? I love to cook, but I also appreciate the rigid technical (aspect of) pastries, and the challenge of finding where you can be creative with it. … I liked that whole challenge of sticking with a recipe, and if you don’t do it right, then it doesn’t turn out – understanding why it worked or why it didn’t work. If we are all in this industry to please people and satisfy some creative need we have, too, dessert is really going to cap that off. You worked at The Ritz-Carlton in Clayton for a long time. Why did you go with Faure to Chouquette? Simone likes to say it’s this big Jerry Maguire thing, where she was like, “Who’s coming with me?” But it was more me saying, “That sounds like exactly what I wanted to do from the moment I moved back to St. Louis.”
La Patisserie Chouquette 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com
How is working at a small, independent pastry shop different than working at The Ritz? More control. In a hotel, you have your day-to-day dictated to you by what kind of events are going on. … It’s more producing a lot of food. … It is extremely frustrating at times, very challenging, keeps you on your toes. It’s a great place to learn. Moving from that to something small … gives you a chance to be more focused on individual creative items.
What’s the most difficult menu item to make? The macaroons. We had a great recipe going into opening, and that first summer was so hot and humid it just didn’t work. A lot of work goes into those – I think more than anything in the shop. They definitely give laminated dough and croissants a run for their money. You post a lot of food and architecture photography on Instagram. Where did your passion for photography come from? I got this nice camera for Christmas
from my in-laws. It started more as outdoor nature stuff, and then that turned into urban exploration photography, abandoned buildings. And now that I have been at Chouquette, it’s turned more into food photography. Do both disciplines fulfill your creative needs in the same way? I think most chefs or even pastry people have quite a creative aspect to their personality. I feel much more comfortable in a kitchen or behind a camera more than I am in front it. (They both require) being a little introverted.
Chouquette specializes in French pastry and elaborate cake designs. What are you in charge of? My main focus is the baked goods, the individual pastries. … I don’t care to do cakes. When it comes to decorating, ... I’ll just really overthink the details, where Simone is like, “I’m going to do this, and here it goes.” And it looks awesome. She can knock out someone’s wedding cake in half a day, and it’s the most glorious thing you’ve ever seen. For me, it would take like four days. And I’d still be staring at it. What’s your favorite thing to make? My favorite thing to make is The Darkness. It’s Simone’s creation – a triple chocolate croissant. … Laminated doughs are really fun to make, but I like this one because most people haven’t seen chocolate dough before. Usually when they see it coming they’re like, “Ahh.”
PHOTO BY EMILY SUZANNE MCDONALD
WHAT I DO
… We work together really well. She had a one-guy-in-the-kitchen rule for a long time, even at the hotel. She’s like, “There is enough testosterone in one person, and you are that person.”
February 2016
FEB. 2016
I❤J If you’re looking for the perfect romantic spot for Valentine’s Day, look no further than these fine establishments.
ROBUST
ACERO
The Robust Life. Sip wines, sample our fare, and shop our wines and gifts. Explore our menu of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, and unique wineinspired tasting plates. With more than 40 wines by the glass, wine flights, craft beer and handmade cocktails, choose your favorites or onsite sommeliers will accommodate you with a selection.
Located in Maplewood, this Italian wine bar offers an entirely Italian wine list and authentic regional food. The menu consists of small, light dishes prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients. The charming, modern environment of Acero is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of vino and a small taste of quality ingredients prepared simply and tastefully.
Robust • Two locations: Webster Groves • Downtown St. Louis at The MX robustwinebar.com
Acero • 7266 Manchester Rd. • St. Louis, MO 63143 314-644-1790 • fialafood.com/acero
FLEUR DE LILIES
THE CROSSING
“At Fleur de Lilies, the new Creole restaurant in Soulard, the shrimp arrives savory and fragrant. At Fleur de Lilies the new Korean restaurant, the kalbi entree arrives sizzling hot in a cast iron skillet. At Fleur de Lilies, the new sushi place, the colorful Geisha’s Kiss roll is as appetizing as it is visually appealing.” — Michael Renner Sauce Magazine, January 2016
Located in Clayton, this restaurant crosses French and Italian cuisines in a refined setting. To keep the flavors of the original cuisines in their new creations, the chefs use classical cooking techniques.
The Crossing • 7823 Forsyth Blvd. • Clayton, MO 63105 314-721-7375 • fialafood.com/the-crossing
Fleur de Lilies • 1031 Lynch St. • St. Louis, MO 63118 314-932-5051 • fleurdelilies.com
LAKE FOREST CONFECTIONS
MOLLYS IN SOULARD
Fresh raspberries flown in from the Pacific Northwest are hand-dipped in our French Fondant and covered in Lake Forest chocolate. Available for Valentine’s Day! Pre-order yours today and call 314-721-9997.
Molly’s in Soulard boasts a French-Creole-NOLA inspired menu, with po’ boys, oysters, and fresh house-made gumbo. Valentines Day Special: A four course dinner for two. An omnivore or vegan gluten-free meal for $95 (not including tip or tax) from 6-9 pm which includes two glasses of champagne. For reservations or info call 314-241-6200 or email events@mollysinsoulard.com.
Lake Forest Confections • 7801 Clayton Rd. • Clayton, MO 63117 314-721-9997 • lakeforestconfections.com
Mollys in Soulard • 816 Geyer Ave. • St. Louis, MO 63104 314-241-6200 • mollysinsoulard.com A DVERT IS EMEN T
February 2016
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February 2016