c'est
si
bon
bon shimon otsuka follows his heart with nomis chocolate
February 2022 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // Fsaucemagazine.com R E E , F E B R UA RY 2022
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February 2022
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FEBRUARY 2022 • VOLUME 22, ISSUE 2 In a Cadbury
Dairy Milk Fruit Allyson Mace & Nut bar Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey In a martini Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Mary Andino Jonathan Gayman, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Christina Musgrave, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Adam Rothbarth, Dark and Michelle Volansky salted CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Angie Rosenberg EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Nicky Althoff, Sophia Liu, Kennedy Morganfield
PUBLISHER How do EXECUTIVE EDITOR you take your MANAGING EDITOR chocolate? DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Dark, with a glass of bourbon or rum
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2022– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
Intravenously
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 February 2022
contents F E B R UA RY 2 02 2
editors' picks
features
7 EAT THIS
22
Floating Island at Brasserie by Niche
BEERS FOR BAES by michelle volansky
by meera nagarajan
26
8 HIT LIST
Your guide to a memorable Valentine’s Day celebration
3 new places to try this month
SUCH GREAT NIGHTS by adam rothbarth
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
by meera nagarajan and adam rothbarth
COVER DETAILS
10 PUNCH-DRUNK
Chocolates from Shimon Otsuka's Nomis Chocolates, p. 34
Fresh takes on clarified milk punch are making the centuries-old technique new again.
C'EST SI BON BON
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
by iain shaw 12 FIXATIONS Six products we’re loving right now
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, adam rothbarth, michelle volansky and liz wolfson 16 IN THE KNOW Taberu
by liz wolfson
review
PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
19 DE PALM TREE by michael renner
Budgy Smuggler at Lazy Tiger, p. 10
last bite 34 WHAT I DO Shimon Otsuka of Nomis Chocolates
by liz wolfson 38 LANDMARK Serra’s Pizza
by adam rothbarth February 2022
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
Eat This
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
The Floating Island dessert at Brasserie by Niche is impossibly light and on the knife’s edge of sweetness. Fluffy clouds of poached, soft meringue float on top of a pool of vanilla-scented crème anglaise garnished with a ribbon of caramel and toasted almond slices for a satisfying crunch. We always have room for this ethereal dessert.
Brasserie by Niche, 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com February 2022
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hit list
3 new places to try this month
ceviche and snacks from jalea
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clockwise, from top: grand spirits bottle co., wines from grand spirits bottle co., chef andrew cisneros of jalea, crab causa from jalea
JALEA When chef Andrew Cisneros set out to open his first restaurant, Jalea, he clearly had a vision because the space, wine list and food are laser focused and thoughtfully executed. Start with the purple potato chips with decadent onion crema or the plantain chips with a zesty aji amarillo-cilantro salsa. Crunchy and salty, they’re both great companions to the curated wine list featuring picks from Spain, Portugal and Argentina as well as New Zealand and Napa Valley. The daily catch ceviche with citruscured grouper, sweet potato, Peruvian corn, slivered red onion and sliced Fresno chile was a delight with plantain chips. The rich and colorful crab causa was artfully presented as a snaky ribbon of pureed potato topped with dollops of sweet crab salad with smoked roe, salsa verde, chunks of avocado and hard-boiled egg. Don’t miss dessert, especially the plantain crepes with banana dulce de leche.
PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
323 N. Main St., St. Charles, 636.493.1100, Facebook: jalea.
February 2022
GRAND SPIRITS BOTTLE CO. Grand Spirits Bottle Co. is a bottle shop focused on low-intervention wine, high-quality spirits and small snacks like hummus, olives and charcuterie. Michael Fricker, who’s served as executive sous chef at Cinder House and also bartended at The Gin Room, runs the show here and is on hand to recommend his favorite selections. The shop features over 120 different bottles, from French and Italian to Argentinian and Lebanese; he’d eventually like to offer up to 200. As for spirits, you can find everything from gin and whiskey to mezcal. Currently, all whiskeys in stock can be sampled either neat or with an ice cube; amaro, vermouth and wine flights are available as well. Whether you want to try a wine by the glass at the bar, pop a bottle in the lounge (for a $10 corkage fee), or grab a bottle for dinner, you will find something great here.
3194 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.769.9933, grandspiritsco.com
SOUTH AMERICA BAKERY & CAFE Luigi and Kathryn Guzman’s South America Bakery & Cafe in O’Fallon, Missouri, is a small operation offering a number of pastries and empanadas. Luigi Guzman, who attended culinary school in Peru, has a seasoned hand when it comes to working with dough. On the savory side, we loved the baked empanadas. The veggie with broccoli, cauliflower, Peruvian pepper and spinach was a favorite, as was the pork empanada that came with shredded pork, olives, Peruvian pepper and a hard-boiled egg tucked inside the flaky, house-made pastry dough. On the sweet side, the croissant with Nutella was skillfully made with beautifully laminated dough, while the alfajores with dulce de leche sandwiched between two butter cookies was spectacular.
4279 Keaton Crossing Blvd., O’Fallon, Missouri, 636.477.6688, southamericabakeryandcafe.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
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Punch-
Lazy Tiger’s current milk punch is the Budgy Smuggler, a passion fruit, carrot, blood orange vermouth and Applewood gin cocktail.
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-Drunk B Y I A I N S H A W // P H O T O B Y C H R I S T I N A M U S G R A V E
Clarified milk cocktails have enjoyed
a revival over the past few years, but you may not realize how far back this intriguing technique goes. Mary Rockett wrote the earliest milk punch recipe on record in 1711, but the technique’s roots are believed to go back at least to the 1600s. “It’s an interesting process because it’s so old, but it’s very tried and true,” Planter’s House co-owner Ted Kilgore said. Indeed, Kilgore’s experiments with this venerable technique drew inspiration from a recipe in Jerry Thomas’ Bar-Tender’s Guide, published in 1862 and widely considered the first cocktail recipe book. The basic preparation typically involves combining milk with at least one spirit, citrus fruit (often the peel and the juice), sugar, spices and perhaps tea or herbs. Whole milk is often preferred, though, with a bit of experimentation, other milks can work. Once all the ingredients have been combined, they are typically refrigerated and then strained. While the whole process traditionally takes at least 24 to 48 hours, the Planter’s crew has reduced their production time to about 12 hours thanks to the use of a sous vide bath. At Platypus, co-owner and bartender Tony Saputo likes to make clarified milk drinks over four or five days. “Each step is a day, and I just let it rest in the cooler for a day after each step,” he said.
Lazy Tiger and Yellowbelly co-owner Tim Wiggins said some drinkers assume a clarified milk punch will be milky or creamy in appearance or flavor, but it’s quite the opposite. The clarification process separates the milk solids from the cocktail mixture. This separation not only strips the milk of its characteristic flavor, but it also removes color and mellows the flavors of the liquor and other ingredients. The result is a wonderfully clear drink that is also shelf stable for up to a year, Kilgore said.
For his part, Wiggins prefers using gin and rum. “I’ve found those to be the most fun because you need a spirit that just has some sharpness and robust flavor,” he said. Lazy Tiger’s current milk punch is the Budgy Smuggler, a passion fruit, carrot, blood orange vermouth and Applewood gin cocktail. “So much of it is about the presentation and just the wow factor of this very unassuming glass of very pale liquid that, when you drink [it], is exploding with all these flavors,” Wiggins said.
Clarified milk doesn’t add much flavor to a drink, but it makes a fantastic team player, adding texture and complexity. “It washes the tannins of the alcohol and spices or whatever you put in there,” Kilgore said. “It mellows it and combines it into one big, juicy flavor.” Saputo said clarified milk gives cocktails a three-dimensional quality. “Rather than tasting all the flavors at the same time, you experience each of them individually,” he said.
Best of all for the bartender, clarified milk punches can be premade and don’t need to be shaken, though they can be. “You get these cool cocktails that are super easy to produce on the spot,” said Saputo. “It’s a little bit of legwork on the front end, but behind the bar it’s literally just pour and go.”
Kilgore likes using overproof spirits (spirits with higher than the standard 80 proof ) in clarified milk punch, as well as earthy, funky flavors. “Martinique rum, cognac – all those things are very terroir driven,” Kilgore said. A recent clarified milk punch recipe at Planter’s House blended green chile vodka, mezcal, hopped pineapple liqueur, coriander, cinnamon, black tea, lime zest and an ancho reyes verde liqueur.
Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com Platypus 4501 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.448.1622, Facebook: Platypus Lazy Tiger 210 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.8888, lazytigerstl.com
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F I X AT I O N S From fresh cocktail mixers to smoky tinned fish that elevate your snack game, here’s what we’re reaching for this month. P H O T O S B Y J O N A T H A N G AY M A N
Fishwife Tinned Fish Fishwife’s line of tinned, smoked fish is adorably packaged and utterly delectable. We love the Atlantic salmon, rainbow trout and albacore tuna straight from the can with seedy crackers or crostini. Add a little squeeze of lemon or smear of spicy mustard for some extra oomph, if you wish.
Three-pack: $27 to $33. Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co., eatfishwife.com
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Scalia Anchovy Fillets with Red Pepper
Whether you’re making cocktails or mocktails, these cold-pressed mixers are refreshing and deeply flavorful. There are five varieties, but we’re partial to the chai-ginger mule and spiced hibiscus sour.
Anchovies are a home cook’s secret best friend, lending an extra savory, salty dimension to any sauce, stew or heap of sauteed onions. For an even bigger flavor bomb, we love this hefty jar of Italian anchovy fillets packed in olive oil and spicy red peppers. Toss a few in a skillet with butter, garlic and fresh pasta and you’ve got a winning weeknight comfort meal.
$10. Source Juicery, 228 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.650.9080, sourcejuicery.com
8.4-ounce jar: $20. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050,
Source Juicery Craft Cocktail Mixers
Loyal Hemp Delta-8 Seltzers Looking to get a legal high without hitting the dispensary? These calorie-free seltzers contain 20 milligrams of delta-8 THC and come in four fruity flavors, mango being February 2022
our fave. (A 5-milligram microdose version is also hitting the shelves.) Four-pack: $25. Randall’s Wines & Spirits, 14201 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.527.1002, shoprandalls.com
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FIXATIONS p. 2 of 2
Van Leeuwen NonDairy Ice Cream Non-dairy ice cream is having a moment right now, and Van Leeuwen has some of the best. They have both cashewand oat-based options; the airy Sicilian Pistachio flavor bears a velvet creaminess and a hit of salty earthiness from pistachios grown on Mount Etna, also known for its incredible wine capabilities.
14 ounces: $7. Whole Foods, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com
Sancerre We love picking out a bottle and having it be a winner. With sauvignon blanc wines from France’s Sancerre region, located in the eastern part of the Loire Valley, you’ll have a thirst-quenching wine on your hands every time. The region’s cool climate produces crisp sauvignon blancs that have notes of stone fruit and citrus balanced with minerality. They go down super easy and are great alone, but also pair well with cheeses and seafood.
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IN THE KNOW TA B E R U
IMAGES COURTESY OF SUZY GORMAN, RJ HARTBECK AND HARRY BOSTON FOR TABERU
With Taberu, chef Heidi Skye Hamamura brings together her fine dining experience, background in the visual arts, and formidable sushi technique (learned at the knee of her father, chef Naomi “Hama San” Hamamura, one of St. Louis’ OG sushi masters) under the umbrella of a catering and private event venture. Taberu’s cornerstone is Hamamura’s stunning sushi trays with rows of precisely carved sashimi topped with bright pops of colorful roe, tightly coiled rolls and edible flowers. Featuring clean flavors that allow the taste of the fish to shine through, Hamamura works solely with Japanese ingredients sourced from Japanese distributors. Trays start at $125 (price includes delivery), and Hamamura primarily takes orders through Taberu’s Instagram account. Instagram: @taberu_stl
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review Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
de palm tree BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
The first time I saw Easton Romer, in 2004, he was wearing a white chef coat, his braided hair neatly tucked under a knit cap, fervidly cooking away at a hot stove in a cramped kitchen. He had just opened De Palm Tree and I was reviewing the spunky little Jamaican restaurant for another publication. Now 53, Romer is still trim, his hair still braided, albeit
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DE PALM TREE p. 2 of 3
flecked with bits of gray. Last month, De Palm Tree celebrated 18 years in the same location, amid other immigrant, family-run restaurants and small shops in the Jeffery Plaza strip mall just east of Interstate 170 on Olive Boulevard. A lot has changed since then, especially in the last four years as small business owners and homeowners in the area have been bought out to make way for the massive retail and residential redevelopment now in progress. Remaining Jeffery Plaza business owners, including Romer, have until Feb. 18 to vacate (more on that later). But nothing has changed the appeal of Romer’s jerk chicken – not time, not a devastating pandemic, not the uncertainty of the restaurant’s next location. De Palm Tree’s jerk chicken has always been a top seller, but somehow it’s become ever more popular during the pandemic. Romer explained this during a sit-down interview at the restaurant, amid tables and chairs stacked to the side as if portending the move to come. It’s not surprising the craving masses that once devoured mounds of the seasoned, smoky chicken elbow-to-elbow on vibrant Saturday nights, washing it down with bottles of Red Stripe, house-made rum punch or Jamaica’s grapefruit-flavored Ting soda, now drive from near and far to get their fix. If they are like me during a recent pickup trek, they turn up the reggae grooves as their car fills with the aroma of Romer’s freshly made jerk rub, pungent and citrusy, bursting with the discernible but not overpowering heat of chiles. What else has been popular for takeout? “Wings!” Romer exclaimed. “Oh, my God, ever since the pandemic, it’s been wings, wings. And wings are more expensive than steak. … It don’t make no sense.” Unlike some other restaurants, Romer hasn’t cut his menu despite the rising cost of ingredients like chicken wings and, most dramatically, oxtail. Even when his wholesale price doubled, increasing his customer’s cost, demand didn’t flag.
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previous spread: easton romer, chef and owner of de palm tree
the dining room at de palm tree
jerk chicken at de palm tree
“When I opened, I had a hard time having people eat oxtail. Now, people order two orders: one for today, one for tomorrow,” he said. I had only one oxtail stew for this review, but I understand the desire for more because two days later I had to stop myself from ordering another. Romer transforms sections of seasoned cow tailbone through a long braise until the meat is tender, the
marrow delectably gelatinous and the onions, butter beans, scotch bonnet peppers and warm spices all meld into a soul-satisfying comfort dish that encourages much bone gnawing. But Jamaica’s national dish isn’t jerk chicken or oxtail stew: It’s ackee and salt fish. The yellow flesh from the ripened pods of the ackee tree is an acquired taste for many American palates. I found February 2022
the mild lemony flavor of the chopped ackee mixed with the contrasting texture and bold flavor of the salted cod as interesting and enjoyable as the first time I ate it all those years ago. When the pandemic began, Romer closed for about two weeks before starting curbside service, then adding inside pickup as things began looking up. Despite the lack of in-house dining, people are still patronizing De Palm Tree. “They still love the food,” he said. He wasn’t exaggerating: While waiting for several to-go meals at different times for this review, there was a steady stream of customers, and the phone never stopped ringing. The same pandemic-related problems every other restaurant faces – increased costs, staffing, changing health protocols – are compounded by the pressure Romer has to find a new location, however, and the clock is ticking ever louder. “It’s kind of stressing,” he said. Romer explained that he’s been looking all over for a new spot, including Overland, St. John and Olivette. “My customers are on me – ‘We need you,’ they say.” It seems the area also needed him. “When I came to the neighborhood, it was doing OK, but De Palm Tree brought in people,” he said. But leaving is hard. “When you work on something for so many years and you finally see the light at the end of the tunnel and then realize you have to start over, it’s sad,” Romer said. “It’ll be difficult to start over, but we’ll bounce back. The ball still has air in it.” After surviving 18 years in the same location with a loyal clientele and now facing new challenges, it’s the cooking that motivates Romer more than anything else. “I love cooking,” he said. “I have a passion for it. I really like putting my food on a plate, though, not a box, because the artwork is satisfying.” On a warm afternoon a few months back, Romer set up a table outside for a group that really wanted to eat at the restaurant. “I got to do my plates, and it felt so good.”
February 2022
de palm tree
Where 8631 Olive Blvd., University City (as of press date), 314.432.5171, depalmtree restaurant.com
Don’t-Miss Dishes Oxtail stew, jerk chicken
Vibe Takeout only
Entrée Prices $15 to $26
When 4:30 to 8 p.m. Tue. and Wed.; 1:30 to 8:30 p.m. Thu.; 1 to 8:30 p.m. Fri. and Sat.
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Beers for Baes B y M i c h e l l e V o l a n s k y // p h o t o b y j o n at h a n g ay m a n
While Valentine’s Day necessitates Champagne and flowers for some people, we posit that a bouquet of beers can be just as romantic. Mix up your date night routine with one of these sweet, sudsy treats.
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Side Project Brewing Framboise du Fermier Popping the top on this elegant, ruby red 750-milliliter bottle from Side Project certainly feels like a Valentine’s Day-worthy romantic gesture. Creamy, sweet and tart, this wine barrel-fermented saison is aged with raspberries, giving it big, fruity flavor.
Heavy Riff Brewing Co. Love Gun If chocolate doesn’t necessarily pull the trigger of your love gun, this creamy vanilla bomb from Heavy Riff may be more your style. Every sip of this crisp, medium-bodied cream ale is bookended with a sweet vanilla aroma.
Oskar Blues Brewery Death By Coconut If, like us, you scan your boxes of chocolate Terminatorstyle for the rare and sacred chocolate-coconut cream, this is the beer for you. Bittersweet chocolate and raw coconut give this Irish-style porter a rich flavor that drinks light and smooth.
O’Fallon Brewery Guilty Pleasure Porter This velvety porter brewed in collaboration with St. Louis’ own Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co. has all the charm and flavor of a chocolate-covered strawberry.
Off Color Brewing DinoS’mores This bold imperial stout from Chicago is a s’mores lover’s dream. Cozy up by the fire, and, instead of toasting your dessert, crack the top on a can of this deceptively mild, 9.5%ABV nightcap.
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Valentine's Day PARTNER CONTENT
If you’re looking for the perfect romantic spot for Valentine’s Day, look no further than these fine establishments.
VALENTINE'S DINNER SPECIALS AT ROBUST WINE BAR Enjoy Valentine's Day dinner specials onsite or to-go for a romantic dinner at home. Celebrating Galentine's Day? Bring your besties! Tables of four or more receive a complimentary glass of bubbles. Specials run Friday, February 11 through Monday – Open Sunday – February 14. Reservations, curbside pick up and home delivery available. Robust Wine Bar, 227 W Lockwood Ave, Webster Groves, robustwinebar.com @robustwinebar @the_robustlife Robust Wine Bar
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HAVENLY HALF-POUND CHOCOLATES
4-COURSE VALENTINE’S DINING EXPERIENCE
Throughout the entire month of February, The Haven of Grace is partnering with Crown Candy Kitchen to offer a half pound of box of assorted milk and dark chocolates with hand dipped nuts, caramels and creme. The Havenly Half-Pound sells for $11.75 per box. Five dollars from each box sold will benefit the families at The Haven of Grace, an organization providing a safe, nurturing home, educational programs and long-term support to women who are pregnant and homeless. Purchase your boxes at Crown Candy Kitchen in-person or online.
Whether you’re celebrating as a couple or as a group, Brett Hull’s Junction House is the perfect spot for your dinner celebration. Their special Valentine’s Experience menu includes a 4-course meal with your choice of any two starters, salads, entrées and desserts for only $69 per person; plus 50% off any bottle of wine! Enjoy a champagne toast with special by-the-glass pricing for Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Dom Perignon. The Valentine’s Experience is offered from Friday 2/11 through Monday 2/14. Offer valid per two guests and purchase of a bottle of wine is required.
The Haven of Grace, havenofgracestl.org @thehavenofgrace /TheHavenofGrace Crown Candy Kitchen, 1401 St Louis Ave, St. Louis, crowncandykitchen.net
Brett Hull's Junction House, 1311 Lodora Dr, Wentzville, junction-house.com @junctionhousemo @junctionhousestl /junctionhousestl Brett Hull's Junction House February 2022
PARTNER CONTENT
4-COURSE VALENTINE'S DINNER FOR TWO Stay home, cuddle up, and stay safe with our Valentine's Dinner 4-course gourmet meal for two for $75. Enjoy warm baked caramelized brie, Sweetheart salad, tenderloin marsala, shrimp fettuccine, asparagus, and Chef Tom's triple chocolate mousse cake. Just need some sweets for your loved ones? Stop by and grab them or call to order ahead! Curbside pick up and delivery are also an option! The Art of Entertaining, 8796 Big Bend Blvd. Webster Groves, theaofe.com @art_of_entertaining /theaofe
HONEYMOON CHOCOLATE 4-COURSE VALENTINE'S TASTING MENU Plan a special evening at Oak & Front for a Valentine’s dinner with executive chef Sharon Harter. You’ll be treated to four courses, each accompanied by wines paired by guest sommelier Tyler Knopp of Bommarito Wines plus a welcoming glass of bubbly or cocktail. Enjoy a complimentary professional photo by Callie Boyd in a photo backdrop in the Roettger Inn Loft AirBnB space above the wine bar. Cocktail Hour on the patio begins at 6:30 p.m. with dinner at 7 p.m. Book your tickets online today.
Honeymoon chocolate crafts bean-to-bar chocolate sweetened with raw honey. The brand evolved from a dorm room in 2016 to a team of five pushing to craft Saint Louis’ best chocolate. Check out their new factory in Clayton, MO for drinking chocolate, tastings, classes, and more! Honeymoon Chocolates, 16 N Central Ave, Clayton, hmchocolates.com @honeymoonchocolates
Oak & Front Wine Bar and Tasting Room, 120 W Front St, Washington, oakandfront.com @oakandfront @oakandfront /OakandFront
WHEEL DATE NIGHT PACKAGE This package includes two tickets to The St. Louis Wheel, two drinks from the Wheel Park AB drink container (draft beer, Cut Water Cocktails, soda, or nonalcoholic hot chocolate), and two custom 6 x 8” souvenir photos. Guests should check-in at the Wheel Retail shop upon arrival to receive their drink vouchers. AB drink container is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. $50 per ticket. The St. Louis Wheel, 201 S 18th St, St. Louis, thestlouiswheel.com @stlouiswheel /stlouiswheel February 2022
ALL-NATURAL, HANDMADE ICE CREAM
CORDERO CON PATATAS
Indulge in our all-natural, decadent ice creams that are handmade with love. Red Velvet Cake, Cinful Bunz, Love Handles, Vegan Rose Cream, Pink Champagne Sorbet or our chocolate lava loves are the perfect treat for your Valentine.
Join us to celebrate love at Guido’s! We will be open on Valentine's Day and our dining room is the perfect spot for a romantic date night. You’ll fall in love with our Italian and Spanish specialties, like these Cordero con Patatas (charbroiled lamb lollipops). Make your reservation now!
Clementine's Naughty and Nice Creamery, multiple locations, clementinescreamery.com @clementinestl @clementinescreamery /clementinescreamery
Guido's Pizzeria & Tapas, 5046 Shaw Ave, St. Louis, guidosstl.com @guidosstl @guidosstl /guidospizzeria saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
opposite: the bar at cafe la vie; this page: stuffed salmon from prime 55
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PHOTO COURTESY OF LE MERIDIEN ST. LOUIS CLAYTON
H C U S
G R E AT
NIGHTS build the perfect date
by adam rothbarth February 2022
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like Niman Ranch filet mignon, New Zealand venison, pan-seared duck breast and tons of classic sides and sauces, you’ll be glad you made the trek for your memorable evening.
Bring The Night In We stan DiGiorno’s, but if you’re choosing to stay in for a romantic night, you can up the game a little bit. If you’re in the pizza lane, you must check out the new Pizza Champ spot in Maplewood. It’s carryout-only for now, and you can pair your ’za, salad and wings with wine or beer from neighborhood mainstays Chateau Maplewood and The Side Project Cellar. For other pizza moves – as well as mind-meltingly good pasta and killer small plates – order from O+O Pizza in Webster Groves. Make sure to tack on a great bottle of wine from their excellent list.
Maybe you do want to go out. You’ve got to live your life. If you’re so inclined, we’ve put together some suggestions for wonderful dates with plenty of latitude for safety built in. Included are some great hotel/ restaurant combos, a few day (and maybe overnight) trips and some ideas for thoughtful carryout. Oh, and brunch. Have fun!
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A Beautiful Staycation It’s nice to get out of town for a romantic weekend, but between case surges and safety guidelines, planning trips can feel like a high-stakes obstacle course. But staying home doesn’t have to be a drag. Spend a cushy weekend with somebody special (or yourself, because you deserve it) at a nice local hotel with a fun restaurant in the vicinity. Naturally, the Ritz-Carlton is the crème-de-la-crème option. There, Casa Don Alfonso and its gorgeous dining room ensure a luxurious evening of enticing Italian cuisine and wonderful wine. Marriott offshoot Le Méridien has two local locations; at the Clayton iteration, you can drink and dine at the stylish Cafe La Vie, while downtown, you can enjoy steakhouse and comfort food spot Prime 55. If you want something more explicitly “St. Louis,” check in at the Loop’s Moonrise Hotel, where you can dine downstairs at Eclipse or, if you’re wanting some alone time in your room, grab some low-key takeout down the street from Turmeric or Corner 17. Before dinner,
you can hit Blueberry Hill for some tasty snacks and a beer or a cocktail. Finally, The Inns at St. Albans is a bucolic option for the less urbaninclined. When it’s open, their Old Barn Inn Restaurant is a beloved spot for its old-school Missouri charm.
Get Out of Town! OK, you’ve decided you’re going out to eat, but want to make a whole experience out of it. Choose somewhere that’s off the beaten path to add a bit of adventure to your day or night. Our favorite restaurant of 2021 was Root Food + Wine, a lovely farmto-table spot out in Augusta that we’re happy to roll out to anytime we need a breath of fresh air. If it’s a unique sip you crave and are up for a daytrip, head out to Ava, Illinois, to check out Scratch Brewing Co., where you can try weird and wonderful beers unlike most offerings at your local bottle shop. Also across the river is Moussalli’s Prime, a homey Edwardsville option that takes fine dining very seriously; with dishes
For the elegant feel of fine dining without the risk of actually being in a dining room, Tempus is a powerful choice; it’ll be open on Feb. 13 and 14 (the restaurant is usually closed on Sunday and Monday), offering its usual elevated fare with dishes specially designed and packaged to travel from the restaurant to the home table. If you’re wanting the evening to get a little feisty, order an assortment of tacos from Mission Taco Joint and a gallon of margarita. Or plan a dip journey by snagging a bunch of prepared dishes like mohammara, beet hummus and baba ghanoush from AO&Co. And don’t forget the pita! February 2022
PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
It’s February, spring is close and you’re ready to go out on the town. You check the calendar and realize that Valentine’s Day is on a Monday this year, which isn’t ideal. So you want to plan something fun for Valentine’s Day weekend, but the daily news is making you wonder whether your typical threestop date is the best choice this year. What to do, what to do?
Another fabulous option is to order a smorgasbord of dishes from Chiang Mai, which focuses on northern regional Thai; grab a six-pack of cold beer (spicy Thai food and cold lager are a match made in heaven) or a nice bottle of wine next door at Civil Alchemy. Or maybe what you desire is simply a humongous Japanese feast with tempura, gyoza, fried rice and an epic smattering of sushi. If that’s your dream, locations of Oishi Sushi in Creve Coeur and Chesterfield will have you covered. In that case, it seems like a bottle of sake from your local Wine & Cheese Place would also be in the cards.
PHOTO COURTESY OF TEMPUS
opposite page: from left, chargrilled bourbon street ribeye from prime 55, pepperoni pizza from pizza champ; this page: trout from tempus February 2022
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innsatstalbans.com; Old Barn Inn Restaurant, 636.458.0131, innsatstalbans.com/ dining/#old-barn-inn
Root Food + Wine 5525 Walnut St., Augusta, 636.544.1009, rootfoodwine.com
Scratch Brewing Co. 264 Thompson Road, Ava, Illinois, 618.426.1415, scratchbeer.com Moussalli’s Prime 7415 Hwy. IL-143, Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.656.0281, moussallisprime.com Pizza Champ 2657 Lyle Ave., Maplewood, pizzachampstl.com
The Side Project Cellar 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, sideprojectbrewing.com/ pages/the-cellar
Chateau Maplewood
Le Méridien St. Louis - Clayton 7730 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.863.0400, lemeridienclayton.com; Cafe La Vie, 314.863.0400, cafelaviestlouis.com
Le Méridien St. Louis Downtown 1019 Pine St., St. Louis,
Brunch (Just In Case) Listen, we’re all adults here: Sometimes a really fun date night ends with breakfast. If that’s the case, there are plenty of great carryout options that will have you smashing that order button, hitting the curbside line, and turning around to enjoy breakfast in bed. Though Songbird only opened last year, it immediately became an indispensable colossus in our brunch repertoire – in one fell swoop, you can score a masterful breakfast sandwich, a slice of incredible pound cake and
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a fresh coffee by Sump. What else could you need? If you want to go the more traditional breakfast route, hit up one of the two locations of Egg. Finally, if you went hard the previous night and a regular old breakfast isn’t going to cut it, head to Grace Meat + Three for a hefty Egg Rick Muffin, their famous fried bologna sandwich or some heirloom corn waffles with spiced syrup and whipped butter.
go here Ritz-Carlton St. Louis 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton,
314.436.2355, lemeridienstlouis.com; Prime 55, 314.526.3900, Facebook: Prime 55 Downtown Moonrise Hotel 6177 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.721.1111, moonrisehotel.com; Eclipse Restaurant, 314.726.2222, moonrisehotel.com/food-drinks/ eclipse-restaurant Turmeric 6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9995, turmericstl.com Corner 17 6623 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.2402, corner17usa.com
Blueberry Hill 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.4444, blueberryhill.com
The Inns at St. Albans 3500 St. Albans Road, St. Albans, 636.458.0131,
Oishi Sushi and Steakhouse 100 Public Works Drive, Chesterfield, 636.530.1198, oishistlouischesterfield.com Oishi Sushi 721 N. New Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.567.4478, oishicrevecoeur.com
The Wine & Cheese Place multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com Tempus 4370 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2878, tempusstl.com Mission Taco Joint multiple locations, missiontacojoint.com AO&Co. 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Songbird 4476 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.4344, songbirdstl.com Egg 3100 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.899.0036; 2200 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.202.8244, eggstl.com Grace Meat + Three 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com February 2022
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
314.863.6300, ritzcarlton.com; Casa Don Alfonso, 314.719.1496, casadonalfonso.com
7326 Manchester Ave., Maplewood, 314.899.0105, chateaumaplewood.com O+O Pizza 102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.721.5422, oandopizza.oohosp.com Chiang Mai 8158 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.961.8889, chiangmaistl.com Civil Alchemy 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com
opposite page: from top, egg rick muffin from grace meat + three, paper dosa from turmeric; this page: the dining room at casa don alfonso February 2022
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PARTNER CONTENT
BY LAUREN HEALEY
If your New Year’s resolutions have anything to do with improving your health and wellbeing, medical cannabis could be an integral part of your transformation. “The New Year is often a time where people address lingering health concerns,” said Dr. Allison Walsh, MD, founder of Women’s Lifestyle Solutions. “For people who are looking to take a new approach for pain or sleep issues and other ailments, medical cannabis may offer solutions. As we’re learning more about the endocannabinoid system that’s present in everyone, we’re seeing there’s a lot of potential to help with an array of conditions.”
Layering is a way to use different modes of administration to better time onset and duration of the medication, according to Walsh. It also provides patients an opportunity to fine-tune their treatment. “If you have chronic pain, you may want an edible that’s long lasting. But for immediate relief, you may take a small hit off a vape pen,” she said.
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When layering, patients should consider how long until the medication takes hold, how long it will last and the ratio of cannabinoids, primarily CBD and THC, though other cannabinoids like CGB and CBN are gaining popularity. It’s crucial to always start low and go slow. “Start by microdosing anytime you try a new product, slowly upping the dose to achieve relief with minimal side effects,” Walsh said. BHealth Consulting founder Dr. Kelsey Schwander, PharmD, said many of her patients are “cannabis naïve” and somewhat nervous about trying it, so she aims to educate people about the benefits. “They’re typically on prescription medications, and they get frustrated because they feel like they’re not getting the help they need, so they’re looking for other avenues,” she said. “Taking responsibility of your health is the greatest act of self love.”
Schwander explained how cannabis has been helpful for a patient who has anxiety attacks. “One of the main medications used to treat those is benzodiazephines like Xanax,” she said. “Unfortunately, they’re addictive and have unwanted side effects. She heard about CBD and how it can help with anxiety, so she started using it and hasn’t had to take Xanax in about two months, which is huge. Prescription drugs are needed in certain cases and are good to have on hand, but if we can find a safer substitute and she can function during the day, it’s a win-win for everyone.” Medical marijuana has also been useful for Schwander’s patients who are depressed. “Cannabis, even at very low doses, increases serotonin, which is helpful for depression,” she explained. In addition, there’s new research that shows that cannabis has the potential to improve sexual function. “We take care of lots of
patients with hypoactive sexual desire disorder,” Walsh said. “We’re still learning, but there’s been a couple of studies in the last few years that show exciting potential in that space.” Schwander stressed the importance of always being transparent with your doctor and your pharmacist. “Let your health care provider know you’re using cannabis, even if you think they might not agree with it. If we don’t know what you’re using, we can’t look for drug interactions. We just want to make sure you’re being safe and incorporating your health care team.”
This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients. Medical decisions should not be made based on advertising. Consult a physician on the benefits and risks of particular medical marijuana products. February 2022
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SWADE
While medical cannabis may not be for everyone, Walsh said she finds it to be extremely helpful for many patients who have tried traditional therapies without success. “There’s little downside for most individuals, and it’s a reasonable thing to try for many conditions,” she said. “Most of my patients who have refractory insomnia have tried multiple options. Cannabis offers a natural way to get to sleep and stay asleep, especially when pairing CBD and THC. An edible is a great, long-lasting way to stay asleep, but it can be layered with a tincture that’s faster-acting to help get to sleep.”
PARTNER CONTENT
February 2022
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
SHIMON OTSUKA CO-OWNER AND CHOCOLATIER, NOMIS CHOCOLATES
The last time we checked in with Shimon Otsuka was for our 2019 Ones to Watch list. Back then, he was managing the kitchen for renowned pastry chef Nathaniel Reid; but since, driven by a desire to continue building his culinary skill set, Otsuka has left the pastry world to pursue chocolate-making. He’s partnered with restaurateur and chef Ben Poremba in a new venture, Nomis Chocolates, a small line of hand-crafted bonbons (each of which Otsuka meticulously hand-paints), chocolate bars and gem-like pâte de fruit. Here, he discusses the joys and challenges presented by his newly chosen medium. – Liz Wolfson
“I quit [Nathaniel Reid Bakery] to do something similar job-wise, but
I wanted to learn more about something new and different. Chocolate was one thing that I really didn’t have a lot of experience in and something I was really curious about and wanted to explore.” “I was actually making chocolate out in the back kitchen of a friend’s
restaurant – not underground, but I was making and selling it to friends and stuff. It was mainly research and development for fillings and getting colors right.”
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
“I strive to have the best ingredients that are available on the market. It starts with chocolate.
There are all sorts of chocolate, but the chocolate I use is sourced from Switzerland. It’s very, very high-quality chocolate.” “I wouldn’t say one chocolate is right and another one’s wrong.
But the one I chose, the reason I chose
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
it is because even when it’s [just] for the bonbon’s shell, you still taste the chocolate. When you taste the chocolate, you want to be able to taste that you’re using good-quality chocolate – you don’t want an OK chocolate with a good filling.” “What I find really interesting about chocolate is every single one
is either hand-sprayed or -painted, so not a single one is really the same. It’s almost like drawing; I love drawing, I love colored pencils. I love painting.” “I also love the scientific side [of chocolate]. There’s a challenge [with]
chocolate: It is a shelf-stable product. So you have to make sure that it will be OK at room temperature for at least two to four weeks.” “That’s a whole other art where you’re trying to not use any preservatives or anything artificial but are still trying to preserve it that long despite having cream and butter and lots of liquids in the ganache.” “The most fun is definitely spraying the bonbons because each one is so
unique. It’s like doing art for food. I love doing that part. I could be hand-brushing it, I could be hand-spraying it. It could be multiple colors.” “It’s always been my dream to open up my own business. I’ve been just
itching to open up my own business, which is why I came to the U.S. to work under Nathaniel [Reid] – I wanted to learn more about the business. I had no business experience in the U.S., only in Japan, and I wanted to open up my own shop in the States.” “I actually wasn’t expecting to open up a business this soon. But it’s
really worked out in the sense of striving for my dream. I think this is still part of my [process], of where I am at. And there’s still going to be a future where there’s more things to come. But, right now, I’m really happy with where I’m at and where it’s going.”
SHOP FOR NOMIS CHOCOLATES AT THESE LOCATIONS:
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The Annex Coffee and Foods 8122 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.731.6329, theannexstl.com
Parker’s Table 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
AO&Co. 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Market & Cafe
www.shimonotsuka.com Instagram: @nomischocolates February 2022
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
SERRA’S PIZZA ADAM ROTHBARTH
Pizza is perennial. While styles and trends in food come and go and certain dishes fall in and out of fashion, pizza always sits high on the hierarchy of foods we can depend on. Serra’s Pizza has always counted on this culinary truth, and, for over 50 years, it has paid off.
this page, top: serra's supreme pizza; opposite page: from left, remy martin, gabriela serra and vincenzo randazzo
In addition to pizzas, an expansive Italian-American menu separates Serra’s from most local pizzerias. “We make our own rice balls for arancini, and they’ve been a big hit lately,” Serra-Randazzo explained. “We sell lots of our pasta, fried chicken, lasagna. We have really good cannolis and tiramisu.” Naturally, mostaccioli (served with either meat sauce or house-made meatballs) is a major hit. According to Serra-Randazzo, Serra’s is a family business. “My father is
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PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
“We make our own pizza dough, we make our own sauce, we grind and season our own meat,” said Lia Serra-Randazzo, whose parents, Onofrio and Lucrezia Serra, started the business in 1970. “It’s about consistency – we keep everything the same. We give an abundance for the amount too. We give a nice amount of food.” Over the years, the menu’s gotten larger, ’za options have come and go, but, by and large, it’s business as usual. The supreme pizza – a formidable, meaty option with sausage, pepperoni, bacon, onion and mushroom – reigns, while the more pared down sausage and bacon pie is nearly as popular.
still an owner. He does not work – he comes around and supervises. He still puts his word in,” she said with a laugh. Her brother-in-law, Gian Pizzo, has worked at the restaurant, as have many other family members. “My kids work here, my nieces work here. All of the kids,” she explained. “All of my brothers and sisters have worked here at one point or another.” Serra’s Pizza started in a shopping center, but 10 years later, in 1980, moved next door when Onofrio purchased the lot. He tore down the garage that sat on it to build a February 2022
pizzeria that now seats about 150 people. Moving the business again doesn’t seem to have ever been in consideration. “We own the building and everything – we’re kind of a staple to Maryland Heights,” SerraRandazzo said. “People are friendly here. We can’t really complain too much.” Since the move 40 years ago, the business has withstood its fair share of obstacles, including, of course, the pandemic. “We were open the whole time. We did close the dining room,” Serra-Randazzo said. “But we
did curbside and had really good curbside business.” According to her, the combination of consistent food and enthusiastic customers has kept them afloat. “Our customers are pretty loyal to us. We have a lot of repeat customers,” she said. “We’ve been doing OK.”
12218 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights, 314.739.0881, serraspizzeria.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39