February 2023

LOVE IS IN THE AIR

pizzette at gelateria coffee co., p. 26

THE SMOKE HOUSE MARKET

16806 Chesterfield Airport Rd, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com

@smokehousemarket

NICK HERMANN DALE BEAUCHAMP PAUL CISSELL

Where are you originally from?

Milwaukee, WI

Where did you go to school?

Hillsboro R-3, Forest Park Community College

How did you get to where you are? I went to culinary school at 23, which helped me to land positions with Kaldis Coffee, Half & Half/ Little Country Gentleman, Gringo and ultimately Ibby's at Washington University as Executive Chef. I've been with the Smoke House since Fall 2020.

Favorite menu item:

Snake River Farms Waygu

Zabuton steaks

Three cool facts:

• I have an amazing 8 year old son named Maddox.

• Although I've never worked in Asian restaurants, it's my favorite style to cook, eat and learn about.

• I became infatuated with mushroom hunting in 2022 and can't wait to start foraging again this year.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? Vitamix

- no other blender can make sauces and marinades so quickly and efficiently.

Position: Head Meat Cutter/ Smokemaster

Where are you originally from?

STL born and rasied

Where did you go to school?

St. Dominic High School/St. Louis Community College/Lindenwood

How did you get to where you are? I worked at a small mom & pop shop doing whole animal butchery, then a corporate company and joined Local 86 Meat Cutter Union. I've been at The Smoke House Market for 18 years and have 31 years of meat cutting experience.

Favorite menu item:

Prime ribeye steak, blue cheese casserole and butternut squash with cabernet butter

Three cool facts:

• I'm a father to two beautiful, smart girls and husband to a beautiful, smart wife.

• I'm an avid outdoorsman and love to hunt, fish and go boating.

• I love to build, restore and rehab houses and old things.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item?

Southern Pride SP-700 series smoker

Position: Fishmonger/Butcher

Where are you originally from?

St. Louis

Where did you go to school?

Forest Park Community College – Culinary Arts

How did you get to where you are? Putting in the effort to always learn

Favorite menu item:

The Prime Ribeye with the biggest cap

Three cool facts:

• I'm a Vegas enthusiast.

• I live to travel.

• I collect Bourbon.

What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? Scimitar Knife

FEBRUARY 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 2

PUBLISHER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR

DIGITAL EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

PROOFREADER & CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR

LISTINGS EDITOR

FACT-CHECKER

INTERN

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Liz Wolfson

Lauren Healey

Iain Shaw

Meera Nagarajan

Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey

Heather Hughes Huff

Virginia Harold, Danny Hommes, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky

Rob Connoley, Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson

Allyson Mace

Kelli Jones

Amy Hyde

Amy Hyde

Alexander Olson

Grace Admiraal

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2023– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

E D I T O R S' PICKS

Eat This

They say money can’t buy happiness, but it can buy a seafood tower from Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. and that’s pretty damn close. When those three opulent tiers of fresh, juicy seafood on ice arrive at your table, we dare you to feel anything other than jubilance. Although the specific offerings may vary seasonally, there’s always something for everyone, from oysters and clams on the halfshell to mussels, boiled shrimp, crab dip, lobster and even a decadent scoop of caviar. Whether you’re celebrating a birthday, an anniversary or simply the end of a work week, you deserve the tower.

Note: Seafood tower will be available Feb. 10-14 and on weekends throughout the month (dinner service only).

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerlobstercrab.com

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

IN THE KNOW

CANNA BRUNCH BY MIGHTY KIND & YONDER EATS

Yonder Eats chef-owner Leah Osborne has teamed up with Mighty Kind founder Joshua Grigaitis to offer a monthly Canna Brunch at Pop’s Blue Moon. Osborne uses Mighty Kind’s water-soluble THC additive to infuse liquids in dishes like tomato soup, the gravy in her “KFC” breakfast bowl, and the maple cream cheese frosting atop a sweet potato cupcake.

Each meal comprises five courses – three savory and two sweet – each infused with 10 milligrams of THC. If 50 milligrams may be too much for you, you can bring a guest to share the meal or take leftovers home. If you don’t know what your ideal dosage is, the team can help you navigate your way to a delicious high. Some of Osborne’s infused dishes are also available a la carte at Pop’s on Tuesday evenings. Follow both businesses on social media for updates.

Yonder Eats, Instagram: @yonder_eats_stl; Pop’s Blue Moon, 5249 Pattison Ave., St. Louis, popsbluemoon.com

hit list 2 new places to try this month

FLEUR STL

With Fleur STL, chef-owner Tim Eagan has set himself the challenge of rejuvenating one of St. Louis’ most iconic restaurant spaces, the former Eat-Rite diner. Fleur’s diner roots are still apparent, but details like dark green wall paneling, a wooden countertop, framed photos and vases of flowers shape a softer, homey vibe. The menu tells a similar story, pitching diner staples like the Slinger and double cheeseburger alongside brunch dishes like eggs Benedict, Brussels sprouts fried with bacon and shallot in a cider reduction, and deviled eggs. The restaurant’s 13 stools all offer a front-row seat to watch Eagan and his small crew prepare your food from scratch. Coffee comes in a French press rather than bottomless, but if it’s brunch o’ clock you might prefer to reach for one of Fleur’s cocktails instead.

622 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Fleur STL

KATSUYA

Katsuya is the latest addition to the Loop’s diverse lineup of fast-casual eateries. The menu at this cozy little counter service joint revolves around katsu, Japanese-style cutlets coated in breadcrumbs, fried to super crispy perfection and served with thick, tangy sauce. Choose your protein –pork, chicken, shrimp, tofu, cheese or menchi, a ground meat patty with pork, chicken and onion – and receive a slick black bento box that feels like a present. A wide selection of edible goodies accompany your katsu, like rice, salad, pickled veggies and daily special side dishes including sushi, pot stickers or crab rangoon.

6301 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.296.3368, katsuyastl.com

opposite page: double cheeseburger at fleur stl; this page, from top: biscuits and gravy at fleur stl, katsuya roll bento box at katsuya

rev iew

Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

chiang mai

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

You’ve likely eaten Thai food here before, back when it was Tei Too, the compact pan-Asian eatery in Webster Groves that dished out satay and noodles along with Thai favorites. What you may not have known was that when owner Ann Bognar sold the restaurant to her sister, Su Hill

of Cape Girardeau, she was continuing its connection to one of St. Louis’ most successful family dynasties of restaurateurs.

Hill still lives in Cape, where she has owned and operated the thriving Bistro Saffron for 20-plus years. When she re-opened the Tei Too space as Chiang Mai in 2020, smack in the middle of the pandemic, she knew she didn’t want to do another Thai restaurant like everybody else, meaning Thai cuisine associated with Bangkok and further south. “I thought, ‘Let’s introduce something small, like the food we grew up with, like mom made us,’” Hill said. Naming the restaurant after the city where she grew up, Hill narrowed the menu, thus filling a void in the local Thai cuisine scene. Dishes here use less sugar, salt and cream, instead leaning into the aromatic herbs and produce (cilantro, green onion, toasted garlic), complex broths and sauces, and hearty grilled meats indicative of the region.

Of her family’s recipes, Hill explained, “You have to narrow down to what you are so proud of and make it fresh. Don’t just throw everything into the same sauce.” (Of the 10 Best New Restaurants this magazine ranked in 2020, Chiang Mai came in at No. 4; a remarkable achievement given what a hellish year it was for dining out.)

Hill is particularly proud of her sai oua , a northern Thai sausage specialty consisting of fatty pork blended with lots of aromatic herbs and spices, particularly lemongrass but also garlic, turmeric, chiles, galangal and Hill’s own curry paste. The result is a fragrant, fiery sausage unlike any you have ever had. Hill not only has it especially made for the restaurant by Reis Meat, a family-owned meat processing plant in Jackson, Missouri, but is on site to blend the spices and ensure quality. It’s so labor intensive that when Hill first started making it for Chiang Mai during the pandemic, she had second thoughts. “Then I thought about my mom [who] spent all this time making it when we were young. There’s a history,” she said.

History, and a process: All in all, these fat, juicy, Robusto cigar-sized beauties take two days to make. Served with sticky rice and cold, crunchy cabbage, this is a must-have if you must limit yourself to just one pork dish.

For the first couple of years, Hill was constantly running between her two restaurants, training Chiang Mai staff in the intricacies of the family recipes and monitoring quality while keeping Bistro Saffron in the black. Through it all, Hill, her sisters and their families supported each other, often

helping out and sharing staff between their restaurants: Ann Bognar’s Nippon Tei; Bognar’s son Nick’s Indo; Whitney Yoon’s Sushi Koi; and Nina Prapaisilpa’s Rice Thai Bistro.

As the second oldest child in her large family, the plan was for Hill to attend university in the U.S. to study business and return home to help with her father’s import-export business; but just as she was graduating from Memphis State, her father died unexpectedly after having one of the first heart valve replacement surgeries in Thailand. That’s when she decided to stay

From left: gra dook moo, sai oua and gaeng hung lay

Chef and owner Su Hill of Chiang Mai

Previous spread: khao soi at Chiang Mai

here, because her father had told her, “I needed to think ahead and think of ways to do different things. Because you never know what will happen next, and I don’t know when I will see you again. Never settle for what you have today.”

Over time, other siblings followed her to study and work in the U.S., including her younger brother, who opened a noodle shop in Cape. After he and his family moved to St. Louis, Hill bought his shop, eventually evolving it into Bistro Saffron and moving to a larger space. Her mother’s death a few years ago prompted Hill to decide she needed to continue her heritage, seeding the idea behind Chiang Mai.

Much of Thai food culture revolves around sharing, Hill noted, and the small plates portion of Chiang Mai’s menu is perfect for either communal or solo snacking. In addition to those revelatory pork sausages, nua sawaan brings strips of crispy, flash-fried beef speckled with coriander seed, balanced with accents of palm sugar and sea salt.

The rest of the menu comprises larger plates, some noodle dishes (perfect for those stopping in for a quick lunch), and a section of familiar curry dishes. Fall-off-the-bone gra dook moo (roasted baby back ribs) marinated in honey, garlic and pepper, came with a side of nam pla, an umami bomb condiment made with fish sauce, lime juice and scallions for a punch. The tangy, complex northern Thai curry used in Hill’s gaeng hung lay (braised pork curry) is delicate but with hidden depths of pungency emanating from herb paste, turmeric, curry powder and other spices.

Diners can’t get enough of the khao soi , a hearty chicken and coconut curry soup with roots in India; it then traveled to Myanmar, along the northern Thai border. In Hill’s version, two chicken legs are the centerpiece in a big bowl of creamy, shimmering burnt orange curry broth that defines its sweet-hot delicacy, chock-a-block

with red onion, shredded cabbage and Thai mustard greens, crowned with a tangle of fried egg noodles. Many words have been written extoling the transcendent nature of this signature dish, but they all fade when you submerge the noodles into the broth

to soften and start picking away at the chicken legs while slurping that soul-satisfying broth. While paying, I noticed, next to the cash register, the chalkboard advertising a variety of Chiang Mai’s dishes. Its headline, “Simple Thai,” rang true.

chiang mai

Where Chiang Mai, 8158 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.961.8889, chiangmaistl. com

Don’t Miss Dishes Sai oua, gaeng hung lay, khao soi, gra dook moo

Vibe Simple aesthetic that fills up fast and empties out just as quickly on a weekend night.

Entrée Prices $14 to $20

When Tue. – Thu., noon to 8 p.m.; Fri. – Sat., 2 to 9 p.m.

The bar at Chiang Mai

gaeng hung lay

Aromatics and spices for the dishes at Chiang Mai

GATEWAY TO THE AFRICAN CONTINENT

BY ROB CONNOLEY

dishes at waaberi

When I returned home to St. Louis six years ago, the International Institute of St. Louis invited me to partner with Ugandan chef Christine Sseremba, formerly of Olive Green International Cuisine restaurant, for a fundraising event. Sseremba’s smoky goat curry, pungent with resinous green cardamom, sharp black pepper and earthy cloves, provided a perfect flavor punch to be sopped up with my sweet, nutty acorn financiers. Today, you may be fortunate enough to find Sseremba at food festivals serving sambusa (meat-filled samosa) and mandazi (doughnut-like fried bread). The complexity of her flavors mirrors a tangled history of imperialist dominion, civil wars and the resulting struggles of countries vying for self-rule. Curries –light on heat but heavy on spices – reflect Arab, British and Indian influences on Ugandan food staples. Sseremba’s ex-patriated food opened a world of possibilities to me that I previously hadn’t experienced, despite my culinary training.

Soon after, I saw signs of life behind the steamed fall windows of Waaberi (3445 S. Grand Blvd.). I had noticed the Waaberi sign on the window for over a year each time I exited the South Grand Schnucks’ parking lot, but the restaurant space appeared shuttered until fall 2020. Walking in for the first time, I saw a sparse room of booths, soccer playing on the mounted television, and smelled vaguely familiar spices steaming out of the kitchen and condensing around the edges of the weathered window frames. This is when I met the owner, Mohamed Abdulkadir.

Abdulkadir had taken over the space from his cousin, who previously ran Nasiib restaurant in the same location. He emigrated from Mogadishu in 1996, fleeing the Somali civil war that had been raging since 1991.

At Abdulkadir’s suggestion I found myself sitting with a hot plate of steaming, mounded basmati and a variety of curries (suqaar), including lamb and beef with a bit of perfectly piquant hot sauce (basbaas) reminiscent of raw tomatillo salsa. Abdulkadir explained the challenges he had faced

opening the restaurant, including the lack of signage and menus caused by Covid delays. But at that point, the restaurant already served as a gathering place for the Somali people (and other Africans) living in St. Louis – cultures which value family and neighbors at the core of community life. Restaurants like Waaberi provide a welcoming space to those living far from home and offer a bit of food sovereignty in the process, food that is so easily fused into the host country’s cuisine. “Before I opened this restaurant I thought that I was going to sell food only – I didn’t know that I was going to open a community center. It’s never a dull moment,” he said.

The friendliness of Abdulkadir, and his willingness to share his culture with me, sent me down the road of learning the

differences between some of the various representations of African food in St. Louis, in both restaurants and groceries. Here, you will find a guide to explore on your own with my picks for dishes and a few recipes you can make at home.

Rob Connoley is chef-owner of Bulrush. Prior to opening Bulrush, he owned and operated The Curious Kumquat in Silver City, New Mexico. He has received James Beard Award nominations for Best Chef: Southwest as well as Best Chef: Midwest. He is also author of Acorns and Cattails: A Modern Foraging Cookbook of Forest, Farm and Field

sambusas at waaberi

owner at waaberi, mohamed abdulkadir

Restaurants

African Palace Bar & Grill (Western African/Caribbean) 4005 Seven Hills Drive, Florissant, 314.921.4600, africanpalace.org

What to try: yam fufu with egusi (melon seeds and collard greens stew), spicy goat pepper soup

Chez Ali (Caribbean/Senegalese) 3730 Foundry Way (inside City Foundry STL), St. Louis, cityfoundrystl.com/ directory/chez-ali

What to try: oxtail, when available

House of Jollof (Ghanaian) 503 Paul Ave., Florissant, 314.384.9153, myhouseofjollof.com

What to try: jollof (spicy tomato-cooked rice with a variety of meats), waakye rice (a rice and bean dish featuring sorghum leaves)

Merhaba (East African) 6665 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.833.4477, merhaba-restaurant.business.site

What to try: The doro wat chicken stew with alicha (cabbage and lightly stewed mixed vegetables with seasoned butter)

Meskerem (Ethiopian) 3210 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.4442,

Facebook: Meskerem

What to try: miser wat lentils, lega tibs beef and the coffee service

Shaw Market (Eritrean) 4200 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.3544, Facebook: Shaw Market

What to try: The meat or vegetarian combo platter available on some Wednesdays; call or check Facebook for availability.

Waaberi (Somali) 3445 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1124, Facebook: Waaberi restaurant

What to try: beef curry, hot chai

Grocery Stores & Markets

African Depot 9944 W. Florissant Ave., Dellwood, 314.868.9555, Instagram: @africandepotgrocerystl

Ceta International Market 12671 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant, 314.449.3218, Facebook: Ceta International Market

East Africa Grocery 3616 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.939.4561, eastafricagrocery.business.site

Nasiib Halal 3702 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.3487, Facebook: Nasiib Halal Store

Ogbah’s African Store 815 Lincoln Hwy #108, Fairview Heights, 618.722.9010, ogbahsafricanstore.company.site

Tawakal Halal Grocery 3308 Meramec St., St. Louis, 314.752.5633, dutchtownstl.org/places/tawakal-grocery

Worldwide International Foods & African Market 8430 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.994.0229, worldwideint.com

Zain’s African International Store 3949 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2292, zains-africaninternational-market.business.site

the sampler plate at chez ali

PHOTOS BY DANNY HOMMES

alioun "ali" thiam, chef-owner of chez ali in city foundry stl

the vegetarian combination platter at meskerem ethiopian restaurant

continued on p. 24

nana agyeman, owner at house of jollof, has some egusi soup with fufu

Recipes

Courtesy of Rob Connoley, Bulrush

Herbed Ghee (or Clarified Butter)

1 lb. unsalted butter

1 Tbsp. fresh minced ginger

1 Tbsp. fresh minced garlic

1 Tbsp. fenugreek granules

1 Tbsp. green cardamom, lightly toasted

1 tsp. cumin seed, toasted

• Place all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer 10 minutes and remove from heat. Skim impurities off top of butter. Rest 30 minutes. Strain the clarified butter through strainer and reserve until ready to use.

Doro Wat

4 onions, finely chopped

2 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. ground black pepper, plus more to taste

½ tsp. ground ginger

2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces

1 cup water

4 eggs, hard-boiled and peeled

Kosher salt, to taste

Clarified butter, for serving Injera, for serving

• Dry cook onions until brown. Add paprika, cayenne, black pepper and ground ginger and stir to combine.

• Add chicken pieces and water to onion mixture. Stir well and cover. Simmer until chicken is tender, about

1 hour. Add water as necessary to keep it moist.

• Season with salt, pepper and clarified butter. Drop eggs in and steep at least 15 minutes. Best served with injera.

Note: Injera can be purchased at Afghan Market (3732 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.664.5555, Facebook: Afghan Market)

Somali Chai (Shaah Cadays)

1-inch piece ginger

2 2-inch cinnamon sticks

5 green cardamom pods

5 whole cloves

1 tsp. black peppercorns

2 cups cold water

3 Tbsp. loose black tea (or 4 black tea bags)

3 Tbsp. sugar, plus more as needed

2 cups whole milk

• Crush the ginger with flat of knife to release juices. Coarsely crush the cinnamon, cardamom pods, cloves and peppercorns in a mortar or spice grinder.

• Transfer the spices to a saucepan and toast over medium heat until fragrant. Add the crushed ginger, water, tea and sugar and bring to a simmer. As soon as bubbles appear, reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes. Add the milk and cook 1 minute or until the milk is warm. Remove from heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into tea cups and serve hot, adjusting the sugar to taste.

the dining room at house of jollof

jollof rice with chicken at house of jollof

12 REASONS WE LOVE

GeLATeRIA COFFee CO.

BY MEERA NAGARAJAN // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

OPPOSITE PAGE: THE DINING ROOM AT GELATERIA COFFEE CO., THIS PAGE: PIZZETTE

MATCHA AND AFFOGATO

Last year, Andrew Fair (formerly executive chef at Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery) and his wife Amanda Fair took over the familiar Gelateria Coffee Co. space on South Grand Boulevard. He kept all the things we love about it: the warm and inviting space, the coffee and, of course, the gelato. But Fair’s nature is to perfect things, and he has given us new reasons to return and rediscover a place we thought we already knew. Here are 12 reasons we love Gelateria Coffee Co.

1.

Worn, cozy chairs in front of the storefront windows are the prime perch to enjoy a cappuccino or two.

2.

Egg sandwiches are only available until 11 a.m. during the week and noon on the weekends. Whether you get the egg and cheddar with optional bacon or ham, or eggs with table cheese, spinach and salsa rosa, it’s worth it to arrange your schedule to have one.

3.

Coffee drinks are made with houseroasted coffee. The espresso stands

out too, whether it’s in a cortado or poured over their gelato in an affogato.

4.

Unexpected syrups for coffee drinks, in flavors like cinnamon roll and blackberry, are fun ways to spice up your routine.

5.

The tender, yeasty brioche takes many forms in the pastry case, like the maritozzo, a kind of doughnut with a velvety citrus custard, or the pizzette, which resemble tiny pizzas topped with ricotta and tomatoes. Our favorite use of the

brioche, however, is the chocolate babka: Brioche is braided with 70% Callebaut and brut cocoa powder so that each slice is marbled with ribbons of chocolate.

6.

Focaccia plays a starring role in the lunch sandwiches. Creative combinations like mortadella, ricotta, arugula and pistachio cream or spicy eggplant, roasted squash and mushroom and artichoke crema make for delicious choices.

7.

Fair is a skilled chef and baker; he conceived the original menu at

BREAKFAST SANDWICH WITH ROSEMARY HAM

OPPOSITE PAGE: CHOCOLATE BABKA, THIS PAGE: CHEF-OWNER ANDREW FAIR AND PASTRY CHEF AUTUMN JOHNSON

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

10.

Housemade gelatos use Rolling Lawns Farm milk and offer mainstay flavors like vanilla and chocolate, which is complex and grown-up. The pistachio is delicate with chopped, roasted nuts to keep things interesting. Vegan options, like a recent oat-peanut butter cup, are remarkably good.

11.

The hand-painted lettering on the sign outside was done by local sign painter Phil Jarvis. The antique gold type pairs handsomely with the blue facade.

12.

Look for expansions in the future. Fair dreams of taking the Gelateria Coffee Co. from day to night by offering an evening menu with cicchetti (little Venetian snacks) such as a charcuterie program, crostini with chicken liver, or bruschetta with broad beans, mint and fresh cheese, with beer and wines on tap.

3197 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.3500, thegelateria.com

in the Grove prior to moving on to Union Loafers. Fair’s new ideas and constant perfecting of old ideas has breathed new life into this South Grand anchor’s menu.

8.

Pastry chef Autumn Johnson’s skillfully made pastries, like the almond bear claw, morning bun, and cheese Danish topped with tart cherries.

9. The chocolate chip cookie with flaked sea salt.

Love at first bite

COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY

When planning a wedding, you want to avoid any unnecessary stress. Let these St. Louis businesses take some of the work off your plate to make the big day as seamless as possible.

BOUNDARY AT THE CHESHIRE

As one of the most popular locations for weddings and social events, Boundary is located at The Cheshire, a historic landmark building with multiple spaces and configurations available, and their experienced staff is ready to assist you throughout the entire process.Enjoy the lavish furnishings of Boundary, offering a diversity of seating arrangements with plush sofas, a look-in kitchen, a full-service bar with wine wall and more. Boundary at The Cheshire is perfect for your next private party, wedding or corporate event. All special occasions offer accommodations for any guests traveling to celebrate with you. The Cheshire is an ideal hotel to offer your guests accommodations from the easily accessible location to the wellappointed guest rooms and Novelty suites. For event questions, contact Jessica Winter at jwinter@cheshirerestaurant-stl.com.

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, boundary-stl.com

CYRANO'S CAFÉ

Cyrano’s private event room is a beautiful and unique space with an eclectic interior design that isn’t found in traditional banquet rooms. With the ability to accommodate up to 50 people, it’s the perfect space for rehearsal dinners and bridal showers. Seated meals and buffet packages start at $16 per person for lunch and $20 for dinner, and they have the best housemade desserts in town. Located in Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally located and close to major highways.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, main line: 314.963.3232; private events line: 314.963.3434, cyranos.com

KNEAD BAKEHOUSE + PROVISIONS

Treat your guests to St. Louis sourdough! Knead Bakehouse + Provisions is available to curate a beautiful, custom dessert table with bite-sized pastries and sweets. A variety of their sourdough cookies, doughnuts,

sweet kolaches, pop-tarts and more offer an assortment of treats sure to please all of your guests. These mini desserts are perfect for wedding celebrations, bridal showers, rehearsal dinners, and more. Contact angie@ kneadbakehouse.com to curate your custom sourdough dessert table.

3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

MC CATERING & EVENTS

MC Catering & Events has been creating relationships and quality events in the St. Louis area for more than a decade. Your special event deserves the unmatched expertise, versatility and experience that our team offers. She supports local farmers, using organic and seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as only antibiotic- and hormone-free proteins, plus seafood that is never in threat of becoming endangered. Many vegan options are available. The team loves a great cocktail party, and pride themselves on fun, bite-size

canapes to beautiful and unique platters for your guests to enjoy. With a super-friendly staff, she offers services such as flower arrangements, event planning and more, from beginning to end to make your special day memorable, tasty and fabulous. She also caters in Kranzberg Arts Foundation venues such as The Grandel Theater and The Dark Room and many local venues around town. 314.443.6956, mccateringandevents.com

ORLANDO BANQUETS AND CATERING

This family-owned and -operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 54 years. Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butler-passed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations. Orlando’s caters to private homes and offices and is also a preferred caterer at over 40 unique venues, now

including The Grand Ballroom downtown. They offer all-inclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail. 2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com

RUSSO’S CATERING

Piazza Messina burst on the scene in 2018 as a premier wedding venue and continues to enchant guests at its picturesque property in Cottleville. As part of the Russo family of businesses, their team draws on over 60 years of expertise in event planning to offer creative solutions for memorable and stress-free parties. Let them show you the new ways they approach showers, rehearsals, welcome parties or brunch for your wedding guests. It’s easy to check them out too! Join them for “Sips” events, featuring inspired options for brunch or lunch, seasonal chef's specials, happy hours and live music.

Piazza Messina, 5535 State Route N, Cottleville, 636.232.0109, piazzamessina.com;

Russo’s Catering, 9904 Page Ave., St. Louis, 314.427.6771, russosgourmet.com

THE PASTA HOUSE CO.

For almost 50 years, The Pasta House Co. has been a St. Louis tradition offering both fullservice catering as well as several conveniently located restaurants throughout the St. Louis bi-state area. With a variety of cuisine choices that extend beyond its traditional restaurant offerings, The Pasta House Co. guarantees you will find an option for your taste and budget, whether you are planning a wedding, office party, seminar or special event. Catering amenities include pickup, delivery and fullservice staffing. Planning for a smaller group? All Pasta House Co. restaurants offer a Parties to Go menu and Family Meal Deals to serve to friends and family. Call the catering department number below or email catering@thepastahouse.com for more information.

Multiple locations, 314.644.1400, pastahouse.com

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

TIMOTHY NORDMANN

OWNER, MR. MEOWSKI’S

The story of Mr. Meowski’s bakery is a story of one man’s determination to produce the perfect loaf. Owner Timothy Nordmann began baking sourdough bread in his home kitchen around 2014 as a hobby following a return to school and the decision to make a mid-life career change. What started as a pastime turned into a full-time job as Nordmann’s output exceeded his home kitchen. He started taking wholesale and retail orders, expanded his offerings to croissants and other pastries, and now occupies a storefront on St. Charles’ Main Street. Here, Nordmann discusses how he discovered the secret to good breadmaking, how rising commodities costs have impacted his business, and what’s next for Mr. Meowski’s. – Liz Wolfson

“For the first several months [of breadmaking], it was just mistake after mistake after mistake, and I was doing everything wrong. It was just this mystery behind what flour does when you put water in it. So, I kind of got obsessed with it, and I was just determined to figure out how to make it work.”

“One day I was mixing my dough like I always did, but this particular day, I forgot all about it and left it on my countertop for a full day to ferment. I thought I ruined the dough, but I decided to bake it anyway. The flavors from the resulting bread were so rich and intense. It was like I found the missing piece to the puzzle.”

“Time was the secret ingredient for good breadmaking, and I was always trying to rush things along, so when I finally learned to work on the dough’s schedule and what it wanted, not what I wanted, my bread immediately started tasting better.”

“In breadmaking, sourdough is kind of like the fundamental building block of all breads… I definitely wanted to go back to how bread has always been made and understand that process first. And it was for flavor, like I said, but then after doing it, I came to find out that there are also a lot of health benefits, and

the flavor is more of the good side effect to the process.”

“We had begun the pastry program two years before moving to Main Street. So, by then we had been doing all of our croissants and everything. So that was one of the mainstays to our business also.”

“[With] the croissants and everything, I was thinking, ‘What is the bakery item that someone at home would be least likely to do?’ And if they did it, they’d probably do it once and be like, ‘Never again.’ There are some things that are better to have someone else do.”

“When I first started, you could get a 50-pound bag of flour for $15.25. Now they’re $28. When I started out, I used to get a very, very high-quality butter for $2.75. And now we’re at $6.75 for that butter. I used to take eggs for granted; now it’s around 40 cents per egg … Sugar is another one that’s easily doubled: A 50-pound bag of sugar started out at $15, and now I want to say my last invoice was $54.”

“You can only raise your prices so much before it doesn’t make sense… It’s just a constant balancing act. And we did a modest price increase at the

beginning of last year, but that was before the inflation had really taken its toll. And, quite frankly, I don’t know what to do. It’s painful, you know. I don’t know what the answer is.”

“What we’re looking forward to is growing that dine-in opportunity, to provide more hospitality to our customers. Because I feel like we’re a destination; if you go 20 to 25 minutes to the bakery, the least we can do is make you feel at home and provide a little bit more of an experience.”

“So, we’ll be focusing on our toasts menu. We’re doing smoked salmon with cream cheese. We’re making our own peanut butter and jelly, so we’re going to do a peanut butter and jelly toast. And then goat cheese and housemade berry jam. And everybody loves avocado toast. So, we’re going to do fresh avocado with bacon, eggs and hot honey.”

“Everybody asks, ‘How do you eat your bread?’ Instead of just telling them about it, we’re going to get the opportunity to actually cook more for our customers, and they can try it in our bakery and then go on and try it at home too.”

107 N. Main St., St. Charles, 314.922.9234, mrmeowski.com

RUIZ MEXICAN RESTAURANT

BY IAIN SHAW

For almost 60 years, Ruiz Mexican Restaurant has been a constant in local Mexican dining, simultaneously guiding customers’ tastes and responding to America’s evolving understanding of what Mexican cuisine represents. Now in its third generation of family leadership under siblings Rachael Rogers and John Marshall – Jose and Hortensia Ruiz’s grandchildren – Ruiz is still engaging in that dialogue and drawing inspiration from traditional Mexican cuisine.

Before moving to its permanent home off Highway 67 in Florissant, Ruiz got its start

inside a nearby bar called Roy’s Tavern. Rogers said the restaurant was probably a natural outgrowth of her grandparents’ enjoyment of hosting friends at their home.

“He loved to entertain, and he loved a good party, good beer, all that stuff, cigars. When he would entertain, my grandma and his mom would cook for his guests and friends.

So, they were just like, ‘Wow, this is so good, I never had this kind of food before,’” she said. She suspects her grandfather’s charisma did the rest. “That kind of gave him the idea that, ‘OK, maybe I can turn this into something.’ I think one of those conversations probably happened at Roy’s.”

PHOTOS BY DANNY HOMMES

this page, from top: the bar at ruiz mexican restaurant; managers john and leeanna marshall with two of their kids; opposite page: tacos at ruiz mexican restaurant

Within a few months of setting up at Roy’s, Jose and Hortensia established their restaurant in a small unit of a strip mall. The restaurant was initially called La Cocina Mexicana (The Mexican Kitchen), but Jose and Hortensia quickly settled on using the family name instead. Jose and Hortensia took over the other units one by one, but that wasn’t always a smooth process: At one point, the restaurant’s kitchen and dining room were situated in separate units on either side of a laundromat. “My grandma would have regular nightmares about having to run the food outside over to the dining room,” Rogers said. Eventually, Ruiz occupied the entirety of the strip mall, eight units in total, with a capacity close to 250.

Mexican Americans never accounted for a large proportion of the restaurant’s clientele – Rogers and Marshall said their grandparents’ friends were just fine gathering for house parties, home cooking and events hosted by local Mexican

American societies. “It became a thing because the people around here that weren’t Mexican became intrigued and wanted to try something different,” Rogers said.

In later years, the rise of chain Mexican restaurants would lead many Americans to equate Mexican cuisine with Tex-Mex dishes. But in 1966, Jose and Hortensia didn’t have to live up to anyone’s expectations of what a Mexican restaurant should serve except their own. They cooked what they liked and what they knew. The original menu included tamales, tacos, menudo and huevos rancheros.

As Tex-Mex began to dominate, Ruiz adapted its menu, expanding its Mexican offerings to accommodate that broader definition of the cuisine: hard shell tacos, taco salads and chimichangas. “My grandpa hated chimichangas,” Rogers said. “When my grandma was like, ‘We should do these, everybody is doing them, they’re a real big

hit, all the customers are asking for them,’ he was like, ‘No.’ And then you have to pay your bills, so he was like, ‘Alright, well, we have to do it.’”

The restaurant also added bar food such as burgers and hot wings. However, first under Doug and Marisa Marshall, then more recently under their children, Ruiz has turned away from those American dishes to focus more exclusively on Mexican cuisine. That doesn’t mean throwing out the popular Tex-Mex staples – paying the bills remains as important as ever – but Rogers and Marshall said they like to run specials highlighting traditional items. And if those prove popular, they might find a permanent place on the menu. “We’ll continue to circle back to more rustic, more original items,” Marshall said. “Now people want to explore cultures through food more, and that’s giving us the opening to exploit that because people want to be more adventurous.”

These days, it’s not unusual for Ruiz to be asked to cater the funerals of customers who had been eating at the restaurant for decades. For Rogers, Marshall and their parents, these moments are bittersweet, a mix of pride, sadness and loss. “They become like family to us,” Rogers said.

After almost 60 years, a family restaurant is like a rolling genealogy forum for both longtime customers and the owners. “The best thing is there are still people that come here that knew my grandfather and my grandmother and say, ‘I remember when this was just a little place, a little section of the strip mall,” Rogers said. “‘Standing room only’ – we hear that at least twice a day that we’re open, which is amazing,” added Marshall.