guide to the holidays g i f t s f o r e v e r y o n e o n y o u r l i s t p . 5 · m a k e - a h e a d h o l i d a y p .16 st. louis’ independent culinary authority
Guide to the Holidays 2012
SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM
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Guide to the Holidays 2012
Guide to the Holidays 2012
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Guide to the Holidays 2012
The Sweet Tooth If visions of sugarplums – not to mention cupcakes, truffles and cotton candy – dance in the head of someone on your list, deliver a sugar high that’s sure to satisfy. This year, everything from courageous cookie cutters to tiny pie tarts will have her savoring the sweeter side of life well into the new year. – Emily Lowery
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PIE PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS; TRUFFLES PHOTO BY LAURA MILLER
1. Bath Bakery Dip into the delectable (and the soothing) with bath bombs courtesy of Feeling Smitten. The deliciously scented cupcakes even boast “frosting” that doubles as a sugar scrub. Cotton candy bath pops, hand-scooped ice cream cones and fizzy bath cakes are also available for her bathing pleasure. $6 to $12. Pulse, 1644 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.519.4022, pulsestl.com
Guide to the Holidays 2012
2. Studio Oh! Mini Boxes of Recipes
3. Tiny Tarts
4. Marvel Hero Cookie Cutter Set
5. Wine Pairing Chocolates You’ve never shown up without a good bottle of wine; but this year, sweeten the deal with a box of sweets to pop with that cork. Whether it’s Porcini Truffles for her favorite red or Fleur de Sel Kreta Olive Oil Truffles for a good white, these two-bite truffles double as the perfect conversation starter.
Expect big results from these tiny finds, each of which holds 20 recipes to help keep confections flowing from one holiday season to the next. Cookies? Cupcakes? Chocolate? No matter which she craves, there’s a charmingly designed set to satisfy.
Stuff her stocking with luscious 4-inch desserts handmade at Pie Oh My! Flavors such as chocolate-bourbon pecan, pumpkin-walnut crumble, apple cranberry and walnut add flair to any holiday buffet. Best of all? At only $4 a pop, you can afford to gift them all (and take a few home for yourself).
‘Tis the season to be super with cookie cutters in the shape of everyone’s favorite good guys. Cutesy up the finished product with piped icing or just add an appropriately hued food coloring to the dough for a legendary look.
$10. Looking Glass Designs, 1917 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.3371, lookingglassemb.com
$4. Pie Oh My!, 2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.704.4416, pieohmystl. com
$20. Williams-Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211 and 227 Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield, 636.536.4370, williamssonoma.com
$8 to $10. Bissinger’s, 32 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.367.7750 and 97 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.367.9750, bissingers.com
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The Starter Kitchen At some point in all home cooks’ lives, they move into their first “adult” kitchen – a magical place where the days of boxed mac and cheese are behind them and the future is filled with freshly cooked meals. Whether you’re shopping for a recent college grad, a newly engaged couple or just someone who is finally seeing the kitchen light, here are five tools that are sure to bring them quality cooking for years to come. – Beth Styles
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1. Cuisinart Quick Prep Hand Blender The perfect combination of a regular blender and a food processor, an immersion blender is a versatile tool that can handle anything from puréeing soups to whisking egg whites to chopping up fresh herbs or nuts. It will become their go-to tool in no time flat. $30. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
2. Messermeister 12Inch Silicone-Coated Locking Tongs Whether tossing pasta in sauce and starchy water, flipping chicken to brown it on both sides or rearranging roasted veggies, this simple tool is the ticket to culinary perfection. A silicone coating means they won’t scratch pots and pans, and a sliding lock makes them easy to store in even the smallest of starter kitchens. $16. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
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3. Norpro KLEVE 8-Inch Chef’s Knife A chef instructor once told me that 95 percent of prep work is done with a chef knife. And after seven years of post-college cooking bliss, I can safely say that statement is gospel. No kitchen is complete without one, and this brand packs quite a bang for your buck. Modeled after the well-known Wusthof brand, Norpro knives slice just as true, but for a fraction of the cost. $30. Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, kitchencopia.com
4. Penzey’s Gift Set If variety is the spice of life, a variety of spices is a must for a flavorful kitchen life. And Penzey’s, the well-known purveyor of everything from salts and peppers to rubs and mixes, has a box set perfect for gift giving. Might we suggest the eight-jar herb set, all cut and dehydrated at their peak season to ensure flavorful fixings? $37. Penzeys Spices, 7338 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.7177, penzeys.com
5. Lodge Logic 12-Inch Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet For most home chefs, there are two kinds of cookware: nonstick and stainless steel. But you can’t overlook the versatility and heating ability of cast iron. Whether it’s frying tortillas, browning chicken, baking up some cornbread or grilling sliced peppers, this classic skillet can go from the stovetop to the oven as quick as you can put on an oven mitt. $30. Home Eco, 4611 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.2000, home-eco.com Guide to the Holidays 2012
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Guide to the Holidays 2012
The Food Snob We all know one – that person who takes great pleasure in distinguishing himself from the rest of us mere food enthusiasts. The girlfriend who thinks only sous vide meats are worthy of her palate. The husband who’d never settle for something as utilitarian as Mr. Coffee. Regardless of who the food snob is in your life, these gifts are sure to impress. – Michael Renner
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GABE KVETON PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
1. Beaba Babycook Baby Food Maker
2. Bob Kramer Knives
3. Hario Cold Water Coffee Dripper
4. St. Louis Culinary Tours It’s hard to keep up with St. Louis’ bustling culinary scene. What if there was an organized way to experience all of a neighborhood’s gastronomic offerings in one night? Now there is. On St. Louis Culinary Tours, the food snob in your life can go behind the scenes of some of the city’s best restaurants with intimate glimpses into the kitchen, chats with chefs and mixologists, and the finest food and drinks. Tours are now underway in Maplewood with events planned for downtown St. Louis, Clayton, Webster Groves, the Central West End, Charleville Brewery and Chaumette Winery.
For most new parents concerned with what their babies are eating, certified organic brands are sufficient. But food snobs, well they have to make their own. This baby food maker does it all: steams, blends, warms and defrosts vegetables, fruits and meats in one compact appliance. Throw in the travel bag and cute freezer trays (sold separately), and you’ve got fancy baby food anyway (and anywhere) you like it.
Bob Kramer’s knives are coveted as much for their beauty as for their craftsmanship and functionality. Kramer is a Master Bladesmith, one of only 114 in the country. But the wait list for a Kramerforged knife is measured in years, and the prices run into the hundreds of dollars – per inch. Fortunately, Kramer licensed his design to Sur la Table for its exclusive collection of carbon and stainless steel knives handcrafted in Japan, including the much sought-after Damascus steel line.
This contraption not only coldbrews smooth, acid-free coffee, it also satisfies the demanding palate of any detailedoriented, gadget-loving coffee connoisseur. Cold water drips through ground coffee into a glass beaker over the course of four to 12 hours, making a smooth and mellow concentrate perfect for iced coffee or even cooking. For a hot cuppa’ without the bitterness, mix a bit of the concentrate with filtered hot water.
$120. Williams-Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211 and 227 Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield, 636.536.4370, williamssonoma.com
$250 to $1,800. Sur la Table, 295 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.993.0566, surlatable.com
$265. Williams-Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211 and 227 Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield, 636.536.4370, williamssonoma.com
Guide to the Holidays 2012
$150 per person. stlculinarytours.com
5. Sweet Sophie Bourbon Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup Mmm bourbon. Mmm maple syrup. Maple syrup aged in bourbon barrels? Double mmm. Thank The Wine and Cheese Place’s Paul Hayden for bringing the two together in a syrup named after his daughter. In partnership with 4 Hands Brewing Co., 55 gallons of organic Grade-A Vermont syrup has been aging in a barrel that once held 18-yearold Jefferson bourbon. With notes of honey, vanilla, oak and bourbon, this syrup makes pancakes transcendent, grilled salmon sublime and bacon more addictive. $13/250-mL bottle. The Wine and Cheese Place, various locations, wineandcheeseplace.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
The Compulsory Gift You swore you’d start your holiday shopping sooner. But you didn’t. And now you’ve got a knot in your stomach and a whole lot of VIPs who require something more thoughtful than a re-gifted bottle of merlot. Fortunately, we put together this list of gifts you have to have for the folks you have to schmooze. The best part: They’re all less than $25. So you can save the big bucks to spend on yourself. – Kellie Hynes
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1. locally made Coasters
2. Govino Shatterproof Wine Glasses
Instead of a scented candle, give something unique to your holiday party hostess. These beautiful, made-in-The-Lou coasters will be appreciated long after the glasses are cleared. Oh, and your child’s piano teacher – the one who smiles bravely through every single lesson? She wants the music sheet ones.
Stymied by the office Secret Santa gift? You just can’t go wrong with these GoVino glasses. Quite possibly the most versatile item on this list, they’re shatterproof (for outdoor entertainers), elegant (for design junkies), and recyclable (for earth-lovers).
$12 to $15 for set of 4. Special orders available. etsy.com/ shop/displayyourheart
$11.75 for set of 4. Robust Wine Bar & Cafe, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, robustwinebar.com
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3. ChocoVine
4. Witty Tea Towels
For your mother-in-law who always has a wine glass in her hand or the preschool teacher who once mentioned your child is a “handful,” Chocovine is a welcome relief. It mixes her two favorite things – chocolate and red wine – in a single, easyto-open bottle. Delicious on its own. Sublime in a chocotini.
Tuck one of these wickedly fun tea towels in a basket with some brownies, and you have a sweet gift with a touch of sass. Good for your hard-working letter carrier, life-saving carpool driver and the barista who starts your latte the second you stumble through the door.
$10. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com
$9 to $13.50. Sign of the Arrow, 9740 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.994.0606, signofthearrow.com
5. Mix and Match Oil and Vinegar Set First, choose a pair of gorgeous, interlocking vessels. Then fill them with any of Vom Fass’ artisanal oils and vinegars. Sure your foodie hair stylist will love it. And so will your kid’s sports coach, your personal trainer, and everyone else whose New Year’s resolution is to eat healthier. $4.59 to $6.29 plus cost of oil or vinegar. Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, vomfassusa.com
Guide to the Holidays 2012
OIL AND VINEGAR SET AND TEA TOWEL PHOTOS BY LAURA MILLER
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Guide to the Holidays 2012
The Boozehound We’ve got gift ideas for every boozehound, whether his tipple of choice comes from grapes or grains. From killer wine accessories to DIY beer and bourbon projects, even a drink-and-doodle read, 2012 just might be the best year yet to buy for the drinker in your life. – Ligaya Figueras
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1. Corkcicle Wine Chiller
BEER SAMPLER SET PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Just about the easiest way for your wine-loving pal to keep whites chilled and cool down room-temp reds. Open the bottle, pour a glass, then insert the frozen Corkcicle. No refrigeration, no ice bucket, no worries. And the chic, dangerous-looking icicle shape? Fatal attraction. $25.50. The Porch, 1700 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.436.0282, soulardporch.com
2. Hand Selected Blanton’s Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Sauce editors helped the folks at Lukas Liquor select its next barrel of Blanton’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. The fruit-forward booze beckons with an aroma of baked honey and vanilla and a palate of honeyed peaches, apricots and oranges; follow that with what Lukas’ Adam England called “a delicious wave of creamy spiced vanilla and cinnamon custard.” It’s ready for the whiskey-lover in your life.
3. 2011 Stonehaus Farms Vineyard and Winery Strother Ridge Vignoles Help oenophiles make merry with a bottle of Missouri’s best. This year, that honor went to Governor’s Cup winner Stonehaus Farms Vineyard & Winery for its 2011 Strother Ridge Vignoles. The nose on this semi-sweet wine is of pineapple and pear; honeysuckle and a burst of tangerine tickle the tongue. $15. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
4. Color Me Drunk
5. Beer Sampler Set
Give this drink-as-you-draw book to that friend who can’t turn down a good drinking game. Presented with page after page of coloring, connect-the-dots and decoding drunken texts, he’ll forget all about playing beer pong and quarters. Welcome to the new happy hour.
Beer tasting parties are catching on. Support your friend’s desire to share the love of suds with this beer sampler set made by Mwanzi Co., a local green woodshop. Each 14½-inch paddle is fashioned from repurposed wood to fit four, 5-oz. tasting glasses. All that’s missing is the craft beer. Special order; allow 7 business days.
$13. Left Bank Books, 321 N. Tenth St., St. Louis and 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com
$60 (includes paddle plus 4 glasses). Mwanzi Co., 2757 Wyoming St., St. Louis, 314.200.4123, mwanzi.com
$50 while supplies last. Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com Guide to the Holidays 2012
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Make-Ahead Holiday By Glenn Bardgett, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Cory King, Meera Nagarajan, Amrita Rawat and Stacy Schultz
ginger squash stew
Don’t stress if there are vegetarians coming to dinner. Just make a vegetarian main and a meat-based main and let everyone choose for themselves. This stew, made with sharp ginger and sweet squash, is served in little pumpkins so everyone feels welcome. No vegetarians at your table? It’s great as a starter, too.
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Guide to the Holidays 2012
Photo by carmen troesser
Courtesy of Local Harvest Cafe’s Clara Moore
The ultimate starter When it comes to apps, nothing says “no muss, no fuss” like a charcuterie board. With quality ingredients, you can throw together an impressive starter in a matter of minutes. Local charcuterie and cheese expert Dave Bailey (Ever seen his page-long menu devoted to the board at Bridge?) reveals how to dictate your guests’ wants before they even know it. Secret No. 1: Start with lots of cheeses in contrasting textures and flavors. Repeat with meat. Then fill it in with a bounty of extra bites. – J.C.
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charcuterie board Photo by carmen troesser; cutting board photo by laura miller
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The Cheese The first: “Gjetost [1]. It’s creamy, slightly sweet and slightly nutty. If you plane it off really thin, you can roll it and make all kinds of fun shapes.”
is still on, it melts in your mouth; you get that buttery creaminess – something to add richness to the palate.” (pictured: smoked duck breast [5])
The second: “I’d do a triple cream type – anything past a brie or Camembert that’s really soft and almost turns to liquid at room temperature like a St. André. You get those pungent notes. You could do the same with a strong blue, like a Gorgonzola, as long as it’s a really good one.” (pictured: Gorgonzola Naturale [2])
“And I always love something freshly smoky and sliced really thin like the dry-rubbed smoked NY strip [6].”
“I love the Jasper Hill. It’s aged by the sea, so you have the sea salt, oceanic mineral-y back tones to it, but you also have this rich, buttery, melt-in-yourmouth cheddar thing going on with a tangy finish. It’s a hard cheese and breaks really well, like little mineral rocks.” (pictured: cellar-aged Jasper Hill [3])
The Meat With something dry, like a dried, cured sausage, you can have that be your spicy as well.” (pictured: summer sausage with jalapeño [4]) “Then you want something fatty like a duck breast. Because all the skin
INSTANT UPGRADE the board
Guide to the Holidays 2012
The Rest Tomato jam [7] makes for a wonderful savory bite. “If you’re going to do a strong blue cheese, take a drop of honey [8] and put it on that bite; it sets it off.” “There aren’t many dried fruits [9] I’d pass on, but stay away from tropical fruit. I like ‘em when they’re not totally dried. I also like fresh figs, if you can get them. If you forgo the fruit, get a really good mix of olives [10].” Spicy Mixed nuts [1]: “Mix together any types of nuts like almonds, pistachios, walnuts, pecans and pepitas.” “I always prefer a fresh bread or flatbread [12]. You want something you can warm up, so you can change up the texture of the bread.”
Bailey uses GreenLite bamboo boards, which are lightweight, dishwasher-safe and come in all shapes and sizes. But if you really want to wow your guests, grab this handcrafted board made from retired wine barrels. $144. The Porch, 1700 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.436.0282, soulardporch.com — J.C.
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make-ahead holiday Seven-Grain Salad w i t h I ta l i a n S a u s a g e , P e pp e r s and Capers page 23
INSTANT UPGRADE napkins
INSTANT UPGRADE placemats
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For a DIY feel and a crazy easy clean up, grab a few sheets of vintage paper. The Bon Appetit Placemat design offers space for your menu and each guest’s name, making everyone feel welcome – and keeping Gramps on the other side of the table from your new significant other. Going for a rustic look? Forgo a tablecloth altogether. $22/50-sheet pad. Good Works, 6323 Delmar Blvd., U. City, 314.726.2233, goodworksfurniture4u.com — L.F. Guide to the Holidays 2012
Photo by carmen troesser
The ideal side dish is a mixture of colors, textures and flavors. This bad boy delivers it all – including a satisfying kick thanks to spicy Italian sausage. And that gorgeous color combo? No need to decorate the table when your food does it for you.
Whether it means digging through the linen closet or taking an extra trip to the store to grab a new set, it’s worth it to use the good napkins this holiday season. Welcoming, warm and just a touch fancy, cloth napkins tell your guests you’re pulling out all the stops – or at least that they’re worth an extra load of laundry. — S.S.
Individual portions aren’t just cute – they up the ante on presentation. Make the sauce a day in advance or whip it up the day of the party. Throw any veggies you have on hand in the roasting pan, then sauce, plate and soak up the compliments.
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Photo by carmen troesser
a hoppier hostess gift With large format beers becoming rapidly more available, it can be just as fun to bring a great ale or lager to a holiday party as it is wine. Beer, with its diverse ingredients, flavors and styles, is easy to pair with almost any dish. Headed to a cocktail party? Look for styles that are either approachable, or bold and flavorful and lend best to slow sipping. For dinner parties, look to pair beers with the meal in a supplementary way (a chocolate stout with a flourless chocolate cake), or in a complimentary way (a chocolate stout with a raspberry tart and ice cream). No matter the occasion, here are a few big bottles that are sure to make the holidays a bit more festive. – C.K.
Firestone Double Jack The look of this beer is clear gold. A white head opens up the smell of peaches, spring flowers and honey. The higher alcohol of this double IPA lightens the mouth feel of the rich, almost English malt backbone that tries to fight off the huge hoppiness of this West Coast-style ale. Substitute this bottle for a pre-meal cocktail.
Brasserie Dupont Bière de Miel A beautiful Belgian ale, this honey beer has a cloudy, marigold color and a foam cap. Barnyard funk backed by a wild orange blossom honey note and a delicate pear undertone, this ale is soft, lively, inviting and unique. The honey adds depth and complexity.
Unibroue Maudite Pale whisky in color, the eggshell head makes for a pretty beer. Lime, dried tropical fruits and fresh strawberry jam make for one great aroma. A balanced, medium body of light toffee and graham crackers is finished by a medicinal hoppiness and Belgian acidity.
Substitute this bottle for an oaked Chardonnay.
Substitute this bottle for a pinot noir or Burgundy.
Stone Imperial Russian Stout Intimidating, big and bold in the glass, the mahogany head is rare for these big stouts. Mocha fudge brownies, morning coffee, oatmeal and black licorice hit your nose before the roasted espresso, black cherries and cocoa nibs wake up your tongue. The alcohol is present, but in the right amount. This is one of the best, non-barrelaged stouts available. Substitute this bottle for an after-dinner whiskey.
Large format beers include any sold in a 22-ounce or larger bottle. While often referred to as bombers, a bomber is actually a U.S.-style that is 22 ounces. Most European and some American breweries are using Champagne- or Belgian-style bottles that tip the scale at 750 mL, or 25.4 ounces. Guide to the Holidays 2012
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make-ahead holiday
DAY B OATING FRO M C i e l o ’ s Cory Cuff
Day Boating Courtesy of Cielo’s Cory Cuff 12 4-oz. Servings 16 oz. pisco 1 whole star anise 1 cinnamon stick 6 whole cloves 8 oz. Velvet Falernum (optional) 8 oz. pineapple juice 8 oz. cranberry juice 8 oz. orange juice
1 DAY AHEAD
• In a bottle or pitcher, combine the pisco with the star anise, cinnamon stick and cloves. Cap and refrigerate for 24 hours.
DAY OF
Give new meaning to “grabbing a drink” by portioning out your batched cocktail into single servings. Once you’ve stirred up the whole batch, divide it between 12 100-mL glass bottles with cork tops or whatever clean bottles or Mason jars you have on hand. Keep them chilled in a wine bucket filled with ice until your guests arrive to find their drinks already shaken – and poured. $3.69 to $7.60. Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, vomfassslmo.com — L.F.
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INSTANT UPGRADE barware
With retro cocktails in full-blown revival mode, it’s high time to serve that Pisco Sour in a glass that befits its preProhibition components. Find retro tumblers and flutes at TFA on Chippewa Street in Lindenwood Park, or pick up vintage-inspired wine glasses, brandy snifters and coupes at Anthropologie. Either way, these conversation starters will turn an average cocktail hour into a bustling beginning to the party. And no one will care that the appetizers are still in the oven. — S.S.
Guide to the Holidays 2012
Photos by jonathan gayman
• Remove the spices from the mixture. Pour the pisco into a 48-ounce pitcher. • Add the Velvet Falernum, if using, and all of the juices. Stir well to combine. • Chill until ready to serve. • For each serving, pour 4 ounces of the cocktail into a highball filled with ice.
DP: A bottle of kosher slivovitz (plum brandy). I used to drink shots of it at the bar of a Czech restaurant in Astoria, Queens, while sitting next to pro hockey players with old school mullets (not hipster-fashion mullets). If the alcohol doesn’t drown out Grandma, the burning will.
INSTANT UPGRADE sparkling red
To drink your way through Christmas DAY DP: Cerdon Renardat-Fâche Bugey offers just a touch of sweetness, just a kiss of tannin, just a bit of bubble. It goes with almost anything, has moderate alcohol and you never want to stop drinking it. To go with that Christmas ham LB: A Christmas ham is the perfect medium to understand what riesling is truly capable of. The hint of residual sugar on the front of the palate, followed in cadence by laserlike acid are the ideal accessories for the fat and salt of a perfectly prepared piggy. I’d go with a Spätlese or an Auslese by JJ Prüm from 2005.
A Bottle For Every Occasion
Photo by jonathan gayman
The holidays are great, but let’s face it: ’Tis the season for stress-induced drinking. How best to take the edge off this holiday season? We went to wine experts Lauren Blake of Robust Wine Bar and her fiancé, Daniels Parseliti of Little Country Gentleman, to find out how they drink their way through the most spirited time of the year. — J.C. To balance Mom’s dried-out turkey LB: Terres Dorées by Jean-Paul Brun. I shouldn’t make a blanket statement like, “Anyone who poo-poos Beaujolais is excluding themselves from an endless and inexpensive supply of truly stunning wine,” but I just did. With big, juicy red fruit and notes of earth and spice, your turkey will thank you. Guide to the Holidays 2012
DP: Weingut-Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett. The palate is explosive, with copious stone fruit, green apple and torrents of mineral. At 8.5-percent alcohol, it drastically postpones the “Mom, I’ll never forgive you for X” arguments/breakdowns. To get you through the company holiday party and still have a job on Monday LB: Look no further than Becker Estate Pinot Noir, which clocks in at 12.5-percent ABV. It doesn’t cry out for food, but it pairs well with just about anything – from caviar to cocktail franks. To drown out Grandma’s voice as you light the menorah LB: Capcanes La Flor del Flor de Primavera. This is the only choice for either of us when it comes to kosher wines.
To make your in-laws actually like you LB: Nothing screams taste like showing up with a 15-year-old Barolo. By bringing a more mature wine, you’re giving your inlaws the option to pop the bottle now or lay it down for a while. The first wine Dan ever shared with me, while I was vacationing in St. Louis with no plans of moving, was a 1996 Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo. Our wedding date is April 27. The Barolo worked. To stuff Terrible Uncle Harry’s stocking LB: A Poloroid of Dan and I drinking Romanée-Conti La Tâche, flipping that mother-**cker the bird. DP: A bottle of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau that’s been sitting on my radiator for the last five years. Like a mouthful of rusty nails soaked in white vinegar. To make your makeshift New Year’s plans a little more festive LN: Château Bonnet Blanc from EntreDeux-Mers. It’s cheap and chug-able. At a restaurant in Aspen where I worked, this was our go-to, no-glass-necessary wine. DP: What a depressing holiday. But at least there’s Larmandier-Bernier Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée. This force of nature is like a fire hose blast of liquefied rocks in your face. Way, way better than jumping off that bridge into the rocky river below. Or a PBR in my left hand, a bottle of Springbank 10-year-old Scotch in my right.
Tired of showing up at the door with a measly ol’ merlot? Break out of your winefinding funk with a bottle of bubbly – but not the kind that comes dressed in pink or white. Sparkling red wine has been a conversation starter since Lambrusco gained popularity in the late ’70s. This holiday season, swap out your regular red for a bottle of Mionetto Il Lambrusco – a ruby-colored sparkler that’s less sweet than those of decades past but just as fun to fuss over. After all, it’s not a party without bubbles. — G.B. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
Makes 9 to 12 bars These bars are so easy to put together and, since they’re best served chilled, they can be made well in advance. The pumpkin mousse is soft and delicate; the shortbread is buttery and crisp, leaving a lovely lingering taste of fall. 4 oz. butter, at room temperature, plus 1 tsp. cold butter ¾ cup granulated sugar, divided ¼ cup almond flour 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ tsp. cinnamon 2 tsp. vanilla extract, divided 1 tsp. unflavored gelatin 2 Tbsp. cold water ½ cup heavy whipping cream 1 cup pumpkin purée 1/3 cup salted caramel sauce (homemade or store-bought) 1 Tbsp. bourbon (optional) ½ tsp. pumpkin spice or allspice 3 oz. semi-sweet chocolate Fresh whipped cream for serving • Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. • Press parchment paper into the bottom of a 11-by-17-inch baking pan, leaving some overhang on all sides. • First, make the shortbread layer: In a large bowl and using an electric mixer, beat the 4 ounces of room temperature butter and ½ cup of sugar until fluffy and creamy. • Use a spatula to stir in the flours, cinnamon and 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract.
INSTANT UPGRADE wrap it
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• Press the dough into the baking pan as evenly as possible. Poke holes into the dough with a fork. • Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Set aside. • Next, make the pumpkin layer: In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water and set aside to bloom. • Meanwhile, in a clean bowl and using an electric mixer, beat the heavy whipping cream to soft – not stiff – peaks. • In a separate bowl, whisk the pumpkin purée, salted caramel, bourbon (if using), remaining sugar, remaining teaspoon of vanilla extract and pumpkin spice together. • Heat the softened gelatin in the microwave for 10 to 15 seconds, or until dissolved. Stir the gelatin into the pumpkin mixture. • Gently fold the whipped cream into the pumpkin mixture until combined. • Spread the pumpkin layer onto the shortbread base and store in the fridge for at least 2 hours. • Once chilled, use the parchment overhang to lift the mixture out of the pan and place on a cutting board. Use a clean knife to cut into 9 to 12 squares, depending on size. • Finally, make the chocolate layer: Melt the chocolate and remaining teaspoon of cold butter together until combined. Let cool slightly. Smear atop each bar in an even layer. • Serve with whipped cream or chill in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.
The only thing that could make these personally sized bars even cuter? Wrap each one in a bit of butcher’s paper or even wax paper. It’s a laid-back, whimsical touch that invites guests to grab a bar, sprawl out on the couch and enjoy dessert with some good conversation – hopefully about what a great meal they just had. — S.S.
Guide to the Holidays 2012
PUMPKIN BARS PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Pumpkin Mousse Shortbread Bars
Seven-Grain Salad with Italian Sausage, Peppers and Capers
with capers and lemon zest. • Serve warm or at room temperature. * Available at Golden Grocer, goldengrocer.com
8 Servings 2¼ cups uncooked Kashi 7 Whole Grain Pilaf* 4½ cups chicken broth, plus additional as needed 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1½ cups assortment of finely diced red, yellow and orange bell peppers 1 small yellow onion, finely diced ¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and chopped 2 Italian sausage links, broiled, cut into thin discs and halved ½ tsp. dried thyme ½ tsp. dried oregano Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 Tbsp. toasted pine nuts 2 Tbsp. capers, drained, for garnish Zest of 1 lemon for garnish
1 DAY BEFORE SERVING
• Rinse the Kashi 7 Whole Grain Pilaf in cold water. • In a large pot, bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the Kashi 7 Whole Grain Pilaf. Cover, reduce to a simmer and let simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the broth is absorbed and the grains are tender. (If necessary, add ¼ cup more broth or water to prevent the grains from scorching or sticking.) Let cool, then store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
DAY OF SERVING
• Over medium-low heat, warm the oil in a large skillet. Add the garlic. When it begins to soften, about 1 minute later, turn the heat to medium-high and add the peppers and onions and let cook for 3 minutes. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and cook for another few minutes, or until the onions begin to brown. • Remove the cooked grains from the fridge and reheat. Transfer the warmed grains, sauteed vegetables and sausage pieces to a large serving bowl. Stir gently to combine. Season with herbs, salt and pepper. • Fold in the pine nuts and garnish Guide to the Holidays 2012
Potato and Parsnip Gratin 8 to 10 Servings 2 cups heavy cream ¼ tsp. nutmeg 1 ∕8 tsp. cayenne 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 sprig thyme 4 sage leaves, chiffonaded, plus 6 whole sage leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 russet potatoes (about 2¼ lbs.) 2 parsnips (about 1 lbs.) 5 oz. freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided 5 oz. freshly grated Gruyere cheese, divided Grape seed oil or other neutralflavored oil
1 DAY BEFORE SERVING
• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. • In a saucepan, pour in the heavy cream, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, garlic, thyme, the chiffonaded sage leaves, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the cream to a simmer. Immediately remove from heat. Discard the garlic. • Peel the potatoes and parsnips. Using a mandoline or a food processor fitted with the slicing blade, slice the potatoes into 1 ∕8 -inch thick slices and set aside. Do the same with the parsnips. • In a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, spoon some of the cream in the bottom to prevent the gratin from sticking. Place the potato slices in a single layer in the bottom of the dish. Season the potatoes with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Then spoon about 4 tablespoons of the cream evenly over the top. Sprinkle 1 ounce of each cheese on top. • Repeat this process with the parsnips and continue layering by alternating between the potatoes and parsnips with the remaining ingredients, but do not put cheese on the very top layer. You should have 3 layers of potatoes and 2 layers of parsnips. • Bake, uncovered, for 50 minutes.
• Remove from the oven and top with the remaining 1 ounce of each cheese. Broil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Let cool completely. • Cover with foil and place in the refrigerator overnight.
DAY OF SERVING
• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the gratin from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. • Once the gratin reaches room temperature, bake it, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until heated through. • Meanwhile, heat ¼ inch of grape seed oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Gently place the remaining 6 whole sage leaves in the oil for about 5 seconds. Immediately transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with salt. • Once the gratin is hot, remove from the oven and garnish with the fried sage leaves. • Serve immediately.
Ginger Squash Stew Courtesy of Local Harvest Cafe’s Clara Moore 8 servings 2 tsp. coriander seeds 2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. peanut oil 2 tsp. curry powder (preferably Madras) 2 Tbsp. freshly minced ginger 2 medium yellow onions, chopped 3 lbs. carrots, peeled and thinly sliced into rounds (about 4 cups) 2 small butternut squashes, roasted and peeled 1 Tbsp. finely grated lime peel plus 4 tsp. fresh lime juice, divided 2 cans chickpeas, drained 12 cups vegetable broth Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 sugar or pie pumpkins Plain yogurt for garnish
1 DAY BEFORE SERVING
• Grind the coriander and mustard seeds in a spice mill to a fine powder. Set aside. • Heat the peanut oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the ground seeds and curry powder and stir for 1 minute. Add the ginger and stir another minute.
• Add the onions and saute until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Next, add the carrots, squash and lime peel and saute for another few minutes. • Add the chickpeas and broth and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low. Let simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, or until the carrots are tender. • Remove from heat and let cool. • Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. • Once completely cool, cover and store in the refrigerator overnight.
DAY OF SERVING
• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. • Cut the tops off of the pumpkins and remove the seeds. • Place the pumpkins on a foil-lined baking sheet and replace tops. Bake for 20 minutes, or until easily pierced with a knife. Keep warm. • Meanwhile, remove the soup from the refrigerator and pour back into a large pot or Dutch oven set over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through. • While the pumpkins are still warm, ladle the soup into the pumpkin bowls. • Garnish each pumpkin with a dollop of yogurt. Replace the tops on each pumpkin and serve hot.
roasted Game Hens Courtesy of Stone Soup Cottage’s Carl McConnell 8 Servings
For the Quince Butter Sauce 4 fresh quinces, peeled and cored ½ cup orange blossom honey* ½ cup brown sugar 4 cups Champagne ½ cup cream 8 oz. unsalted butter, melted Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the Game Hens 8 small Cornish game hens Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Extra-virgin olive oil 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 zucchini, peeled and chopped (or other seasonal vegetable) 2 Tbsp. freshly chopped thyme
½ cup white wine 4 cups chicken stock 8 oz. unsalted butter
1 DAY BEFORE SERVING
• Make the quince butter sauce: Combine the first 4 ingredients in a sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Cook until the quinces are soft. • Add the cream and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. • Slowly whisk in the melted butter and simmer until fully incorporated. • Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. • Allow to cool completely, then transfer to a container fitted with an airtight lid. Place in the refrigerator overnight.
DAY OF SERVING
• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. • Generously season each bird with salt and pepper. • Truss each bird: Lay the hen on a cutting board breast-side up. Secure the wings under the breast. Place a foot-long piece of kitchen string behind the neck. Pull up on the string to plump the breast. Cross the string under the breast (above the cavity, between the legs). Wrap each end around the nearest leg and tie tightly. Cut any remaining string. • Working in batches, drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large saute pan set over high heat. Brown the underside of the hens, then flip and brown the other side. Remove to a roasting pan. • Add the shallots, zucchini and thyme to the saute pan and saute for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove to the roasting pan. • Add the white wine and chicken stock to the saute pan. Stir in the butter until it melts. • Pour the liquid over the game hens. • Cover the roasting pan with foil and place it in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until desired doneness. • Meanwhile, remove the quince butter sauce from the refrigerator and place in a sauce pot set over low heat until heated through. • Remove the birds from the oven and let rest for at least 5 minutes. • To serve, spoon the sauce in a circle surrounding the inside of the plate. Place the zucchini in the center of the circle and top with the bird. * Available at Straub’s, straubs.com
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Guide to the Holidays 2012