Guide to the Holidays 2018

GUIDE TO THE

H O L I D AYS quick caramel cake, p. 18

Guide to the Holidays 2018

FREE, GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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when you want to spend

$25 OR LESS This season of hostess gifts, Hanukkah tchotchkes and stocking stuffers can be as stressful as it is joy-filled. Here are gifts to have on retainer when the person who agreed not to exchange shows up with a little something. – Heather Hughes

Tree of Life trivet For the socially conscious person on your list, we present this hand-carved sheesham wood trivet made in Saharanpur, India, by fair-trade artisans. $22. Zee Bee Market, 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000; 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.402.0940, zeebeemarket.com

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Blueprint Penrose and HAY clip with spoon This adorable, Scandinaviandesigned measuring spoon/ clip makes a perfect pair with Blueprint Coffee’s crowdpleasing house espresso. We won’t tell you rounded up 50 cents to make the dream team happen. Spoon: $10. MoMA Design Store, store.moma. org. Coffee: $15.50. Blueprint Coffee, 6225 Delmar Blvd.; 4206 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.266.6808, blueprintcoffee.com

Mortar and pestle The clever design of this gray marble set – with a pestle shaped to fill the entire bowl of the mortar – makes grinding spices a breeze. $20. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com

Collin Garrity wood kitchen tools Form and function are equal in local artist Collin Garrity’s beautiful tools, each available for less than $25. Along with the obvious, use the herb stripper for scraping cutting boards and seeding squash. Prices vary.

Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com

Guide to the Holidays 2018

KITCHEN TOOLS, BISCUIT MIX AND JAM PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Larder & Cupboard gift bag Give the pros at Larder & Cupboard your budget, and sit back as they create an ideal custom gift bag or basket. Start with the remarkable housemade raspberry-elderflower jam ($7.50) and Juniper’s Gift Horse buttermilk biscuit mix ($6), and you can’t go wrong.

Prices vary. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

when you want to spend

$ 2 5 - $ 5 0 It can be hard to pick something in the agreed-upon price range that you won’t meet again at next year’s white elephant exchange. From crowd-pleasers like cloth napkins and cheese knives to unique finds like a handmade bread warmer basket, these gifts deliver. – Heather Hughes

Tree of Life bread warmer basket set Another fair-trade favorite, this basket comes with an oven-safe terracotta disc to keep baked goods toasty. $27. Zee Bee Market, 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000; 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.402.0940, zeebeemarket.com

Lehmann Goods wood spice dish and Phillip Cinder ceramic spoon This spice dish by Hannah Lehmann is so much cooler than salt and pepper shakers. Give it to a pizza lover to fill with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and oregano.

Spice dish: $40. Lehmann Goods, lehmanngoods.com; Phillip Cinder ceramic spoon: $10. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com Large Turkish towel This soft, stylish towel can be used for everything from cleaning up to covering small tables or folding into a runner. It gets softer the more it’s washed. $36.

Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com

Cotton napkins Cloth napkins never go out of style. Buy these beauties to ensure they’re not just chic and sustainable, but fair trade as well. Prices vary. Plowsharing Crafts, 6271 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.3723, plowsharing.org

SPICE BOWLS AND TURKISH TOWEL PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Laguiole cheese knife set Laguiole combines the French loves for cheese and elegant design. The set includes a cheese fork, knife and spreader. $40. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com

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when you want to spend

$50-$100 The holidays are an opportunity to gift the things you can’t justify buying yourself – like a gorgeous carved cookbook stand and artisan ceramics. Treat friends and family to these home goods and live vicariously. – Heather Hughes

Carved book stand Give recipes some style and save cookbooks or iPads from spills with this ornate book stand. $75. Plowsharing Crafts, 6271 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.3723, plowsharing.org

‘Hey Girl, I Made You a Salad’ framed print Created by St. Louis illustrator Vidhya Nagarajan for the September 2016 issue of Sauce, this framed print belongs in every salad lover’s kitchen. $51. vidhyanagarajan.com

snakewood sushi table Make sushi night look professional with this striking table made from reclaimed wood by local artisans. $70. Newberry Furniture, 314.647.6090, newberryfurniture.com

Arthur Court Olive Tray and olives Show up at your next holiday party with a snack and elegant gift in one. Tray: $60. Olive prices vary.

Extra Virgin an Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com

PITCHER AND CUPS PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Al Westcott ceramic pitcher and cups A two-cup and pitcher set of local artist Al Westcott’s beautiful, unembellished work is perfect for couples, roommates or guest rooms. Pitcher: $62. Cups: $18 each. Union Studio, 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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when you want to spend

A LOT When it comes to food, we like gifts that keep giving, like classes or subscriptions. If you’re going to spend the big bucks on world-class coffee or wine, it’s nice to know your loved ones will be reminded how much they mean to you month after month. – Heather Hughes

Bolyard Butcher classes Give the gift of meat knowledge (and meat to take home) with classes where students chew the fat with butcher Chris Bolyard and learn how to cut meat while snacking on house charcuterie and drinking beer. New classes open in January. $125. Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com

Jilly’s Cupcakes of the Month subscription Available in the St. Louis area and Edwardsville, you can have four massive cupcakes delivered monthly to your favorite sweet tooth for three, six or 12 months. Three months: $127.50. Six months: $240. One year: $450. Jilly’s Cupcake & Ice Cream Bar, 8509 Delmar Blvd., University City; 222 E. Park St., Edwardsville, 314.993.5455

Vero Meal Kits subscription Perfect for homebodies who love good food, Vero kits allow people to bring the Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria experience home with customizable menus and easy instructions for cooking dishes that have been featured at the sister restaurant, including eggplant Parmigiana and artichoke salad. Prices vary.

Vero Meal Kits, 314.764.2220, veromealkits.com

Sump Roaster’s Choice Subscription This is a dream gift for any coffee lover. Sump’s flexible subscriptions let you send $16 12-ounce bags of some of the best beans in the state as often as once a week. The selection of single-origin coffees rotates on a bi-weekly basis. Prices vary.

Sump Coffee, sumpcoffee.com

CUPCAKE PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Claverach Farm Wines subscription In addition to making its own wine, Claverach works with small, niche importers and cult domestic wineries to distribute some special natural wines you won’t find elsewhere. Give a yearly subscription of 12, six or three bottles a month for $155, $82 and $45 per month, plus fees, respectively. Prices vary. Claverach Farm Wines, claverachwine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

A CHEF'S HOLIDAY New holiday recipes abound every year, but some family favorites simply cannot be improved. That’s why La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure swaps choux pastry for 7UP in her holiday baking, and why Companion’s Josh Galliano always keeps a pot of gumbo simmering on Christmas Eve. We asked St. Louis chefs with Southern roots to share the dishes that make their family tables complete. – Catherine Klene

mac ‘n’ cheese with red gravy, recipe on p. 15

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER Guide to the Holidays 2018

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companion’s josh galliano and his son, emil

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

RECIPES EGGPLANT AND CRAB DIP Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 12 SERVINGS

“In Baton Rouge, we were always asked to do crab Mornay. I started doing a crab and eggplant one as a different option. We always had different dressings that are kind of casseroles and kind of dip.” – Josh Galliano 1 large eggplant ½ cup butter ¼ cup white onion, small diced 1 garlic clove, minced ½ cup flour 2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¾ cup grated Parmesan, divided 1 lb. refrigerated lump or backfin crabmeat, picked over for shell pieces ¾ cup breadcrumbs Benne wafers, water crackers or mini vol-au-vents, for serving • Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium, direct heat.

• Pierce the eggplant with a fork in 8 to 10 places. Grill the eggplant over direct heat, turning every 5 minutes to cook evenly. Once the eggplant is soft all over, set in a bowl to cool.

• Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise.

Scoop out the flesh and let drain in a fine-mesh sieve or colander until ready to use.

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5

Guide to the Holidays 2018

minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the onion mixture and stir to incorporate, then stir in the milk and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 10 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.

• Transfer the sauce to a blender and add the eggplant and ½ cup Parmesan. Puree the mixture.

• Stir in the crabmeat, then pour the dip into a 7-inch round casserole dish. Sprinkle the top with the breadcrumbs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan.

• Bake 10 minutes. Serve with benne wafers, water crackers or inside mini vol-au-vents.

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE WITH RED GRAVY Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

“It was from my dad’s side of the family, going over on Christmas Day to my Aunt Mary’s. They would always have [this], a classic staple of their Christmas spread.” – Josh Galliano ¾ cup butter, divided ¼ cup flour 4 cups milk 1 lb. rigatoni or penne pasta Olive oil, to prevent sticking 1 cup shredded Fontina ½ cup shredded cheddar ½ cup cubed Velveeta ¼ cup shredded asiago Pinch of cayenne Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup breadcrumbs Red Gravy, for serving (recipe follows)

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

• In a medium pot, melt ½ cup butter over medium heat, then whisk in the flour. Whisk 2 minutes, then add the milk. Bring the bechamel to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and continue whisking about 10 minutes.

• Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente, then drain and place in a large mixing bowl and stir with a drizzle of olive oil.

• Add the Fontina, cheddar, Velveeta and asiago to the bechamel and stir until the cheeses melt. Season to taste with cayenne, salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

• In a small skillet, melt the remaining ¼ cup butter over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, add the breadcrumbs. Stir the breadcrumbs until toasted, about 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

• Pour the cheese sauce over the pasta and mix until thoroughly coated, then pour into a 9-by-13inch casserole dish. Evenly sprinkle the top with the breadcrumbs.

• Bake 10 minutes. Serve with Red Gravy.

4 garlic cloves, minced 2 6-oz. cans tomato paste 4 8-oz. cans tomato sauce 4 cups water 3 Tbsp. Italian seasoning 2 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. whole anise seed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the onion and garlic and saute until they begin to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

• Add the tomato paste and reduce the heat to low. Stir and cook the tomato paste about 5 minutes.

• Add the tomato sauce and water and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer about 1 hour.

• Stir in the Italian seasoning, oregano, anise and salt and pepper to taste. Serve over mac ‘n’ cheese or other pasta.

SAUTEED COLLARD GREENS Courtesy of Gourmet Soul’s Lavinia McCoy 3 TO 5 SERVINGS

RED GRAVY

Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 1 TO 1½ GALLONS

Yes, this is an Italian tomato sauce – just don’t call it that. “Red gravy is what Sicilian Italians in New Orleans call it.” – Josh Galliano ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, small diced

1½ lb. fresh collard greens 2 Tbsp. butter ½ cup finely diced onion Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste ½ cup chicken stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Remove and discard all but 1 inch of the collard stems. Strip the leaves from the remaining center stems. Cut the leaves into 2-by2-inch squares and thinly slice

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“ F O R I

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

the stems. Thoroughly wash the greens, making sure all dirt and grit are removed.

• Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Submerge the collard greens and boil 3 minutes.

Drain and set aside.

• In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter, then saute the onion with red pepper flakes to taste until the onions are tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

• Add the collard greens and chicken stock to the skillet and raise the heat to high. Wilt the greens, stirring occasionally until desired tenderness is reached, 5 to 7 minutes, adding more stock or water to prevent burning.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

“When we always had my immediate family around, we would celebrate Christmas Eve – open up whatever presents – and then snack on gumbo, because it was easy, and it would be in the background. We went to vigil Mass and came back, and at that point you’d be hungry because they kept you too long and the gumbo was easy to get back into.” – Josh Galliano For the Stock 3 to 4 Tbsp. canola oil 1 3-lb. chicken, cut into pieces 2 Tbsp. Creole seasoning 15 cups water 1 yellow onion, cut in half 1 large carrot, cut into 3 pieces 1 celery stalk, cut in half 1 bay leaf

Guide to the Holidays 2018

For the Gumbo ½ cup canola oil ½ cup flour 1 cup small-diced onion ½ cup small-diced celery ½ cup small-diced green bell pepper 1 Tbsp. chopped garlic 10 to 12 cups chicken stock 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire 1 tsp. Crystal hot sauce, plus more for serving 1 bay leaf Pinch of cayenne Pinch of chili flakes ½ lb. andouille, cut into half moons* Steamed white rice, for serving Chopped green onion, for serving • Begin the chicken stock by preheating the canola oil in a Dutch oven over high heat.

• Meanwhile, dry the chicken pieces with a paper towel, then season all over with the Creole seasoning.

• Sear the chicken pieces in the Dutch oven until browned on all sides, working in batches if needed.

• Add the water, onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer 45 minutes.

• Remove the chicken pieces and set aside. Strain the stock into a clean pot; discard the solids.

• Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the meat and set aside in a small pot with some stock to keep warm. Discard the skin and bones.

• Clean the Dutch oven, add the oil and return to medium-high heat.

When the oil just begins to smoke, whisk in the flour and reduce the heat to medium-low. Continue whisking the roux until it is the color of dark peanut butter or a Hershey milk chocolate bar, about 45 minutes.

• Add the onion, celery, bell pepper and garlic and cook 5

minutes. Then add the stock, Worcestershire, hot sauce, bay leaf, cayenne and chili flakes.

Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer about 10 minutes.

• Add the chicken pieces and andouille, then simmer another 30 minutes. Skim any foam or impurities that rise to the top.

• Taste and adjust the seasonings.

The gumbo should be the consistency of a slightly thickened broth. Serve over steamed rice, garnished with green onions and hot sauce. *Galliano orders andouille from Jacob’s in LaPlace, Louisiana, at cajunsausage.com. It is also available at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood and Truffles Butchery in Ladue.

NEW ORLEANS RICE DRESSING

Courtesy of La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure 6 TO 8 SERVINGS, ENOUGH TO STUFF 1 LARGE TURKEY

“For Christmas and Easter, we always have rice dressing or dirty rice. I feel like it is the core of Louisiana, the core of New Orleans.

It’s always on the table.” – Simone Faure ½ lb. chicken gizzards 2 Tbsp. olive oil 4 celery stalks, chopped 1 green bell pepper, small diced ½ red onion, diced ½ white onion, small diced 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 lb. ground turkey 1 Tbsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. onion powder 1 Tbsp. Tony’s Creole Seasoning ½ Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. cayenne 4½ cups beef broth 3 cups white Louisiana rice 1 bunch parsley, chopped 1 bunch green onions, chopped • Rinse the gizzards thoroughly, then add them to a stockpot. Cover with water and cook over low heat about 1½ hours, adding more water if needed, until the gizzards are fork tender. Drain the gizzards, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Set aside.

• Meanwhile, in a large skillet, warm the olive oil over mediumhigh heat. Saute the celery, bell pepper, red onion and white onion until tender, 6 to 10 minutes, then add the garlic and saute 1 minute more.

• Add the turkey, garlic powder, onion powder, Creole seasoning, pepper, paprika and cayenne and saute until the turkey is browned, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Add the gizzards to a food processor and pulse to lightly chop, or lightly chop by hand.

• Return the skillet to medium heat, add the gizzards to the turkey mixture and stir well. Add the reserved gizzard cooking liquid.

Reduce the heat to low and let simmer.

• Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring the beef broth to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice, cover, reduce the heat to low and cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let the rice steam 10 minutes.

• Add the turkey mixture to a large bowl. Add the rice 1 cup at a time so the mixture remains moist and the desired rice-to-meat ratio is reached.

(You may not use all the rice.)

• Add the parsley and green onion and mix well. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with more parsley and green onion to serve as a side or use it to stuff a turkey.

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SOUTHERN 7UP CAKE

Courtesy of La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

“Every black family in New Orleans does 7UP cake for the holidays.

My mother was an avid baker, and she would always have 7UP cake.

I had friends in college who would request it if they came home for the holidays.” – Simone Faure 3 cups granulated sugar ¾ lb. (3 sticks) butter, softened 5 eggs 3 cups self-rising flour 4 Tbsp. lemon juice, divided ¾ cup 7UP 1 cup powdered sugar 1 tsp. milk

QUICK CARAMEL CAKE

Courtesy of Gourmet Soul’s Lavinia McCoy 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

“For whatever the reason, every time I make that damn cake, [my family] thinks I’ve been laboring in the kitchen all day.” – Lavinia McCoy 1 box Duncan Hines Signature Golden Butter Recipe Cake Mix 1 cup sugar 6 Tbsp. salted butter, room temperature cut into 6 pieces ½ cup heavy cream 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 to 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted, plus more if needed • Prepare the cake in a bundt pan or 2 9-inch round cake pans

according to package directions.

Let cool completely.

• In a medium saucepan over medium heat, constantly stir the sugar with a heat-resistant rubber spatula or wooden spoon. The sugar will clump and melt into a thick, amber-colored syrup.

• Immediately add the butter and whisk until completely melted, 2 to 3 minutes. The sugar will bubble rapidly when the butter is added.

• Very slowly drizzle in the heavy cream while whisking. The mixture will bubble rapidly and/or splatter when added. Boil 1 minute, then remove from heat and stir in the salt. Let cool.

• Slowly whisk in 1 cup powdered sugar until the desired consistency is reached, adding more sugar as needed.

• Drizzle the frosting atop the cake, or apply with an offset spatula.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Coat a 12-cup bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray.

• In a stand mixer on medium speed, cream the granulated sugar and butter until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating after each addition.

• On low speed, add the flour and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

• Use a rubber spatula to fold in the 7UP, then pour the batter into the bundt pan.

• Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes.

• Let cool on a wire rack completely before removing the cake from the pan.

• Meanwhile, whisk together the powdered sugar, milk and remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice to make a glaze. Drizzle atop the cooled cake before serving.

la patisserie chouquette's simone faure

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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yolklore’s mary bogaki tops key lime pie with whipped cream.

KEY LIME PIE

Courtesy of Yolklore’s Mary Bogaki 1 9-INCH PIE

“Generally, citrus is in season in the wintertime, so the lime and Key lime are actually in season. It’s something different and fun, and after heavy eating, Key lime pie is so light and refreshing. I like that a whole lot more than heavy pumpkin custard pie.”

– Mary Bogaki

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3 cups (about 10 oz.) graham cracker crumbs 6 Tbsp. (about 3 oz.) butter, melted 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk 10 egg yolks ½ cup plus 1½ Tbsp. (about 5 oz.) lime juice ¹∕³ cup vodka 1 cup heavy cream

¹∕³ cup powdered sugar ½ tsp. vanilla extract • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

• In a mixing bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs and butter. Press evenly on the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie pan.

• In another mixing bowl, whisk together the condensed milk, egg yolks, lime juice and vodka until

smooth. Pour into the prepared pan.

• Bake until the filling is just set, 15 minutes. Let cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.

• Before serving, make whipped cream by beating the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla extract in a stand mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.

• Serve the pie with a generous dollop of whipped cream.

Guide to the Holidays 2018

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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YOU CAN ACTUALLY AFFORD

2002 YORK CREEK VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ESTATE “All of the acidity, all the tannins have been completely smoothed out, so you’re left with an incredibly silky, robust wine,” said Cork & Rind buying manager Matt Hickerson. “You get a lot of dark fruit flavors in it – like munching on figs and plums and dates.” $35. Cork & Rind, 555 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.896.4404, corkandrind.com

2006 R. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA This tempranillo-graciano blend from Rioja, Spain, is super balanced. “When red wines are young, they’re big, they’re fruity,” said The Wine Merchant general manager Phil Peimann.

“As red wine ages out, the fruit tends to fall back a little bit, you get some earthy elements coming up from the background.” $43. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com

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2007 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU You don’t usually see 11-year-old red Bordeauxes at a price like this. Peimann said the merlot-cabernet franc-cabernet sauvignon blend from the SaintEmilion region features notes of red and black fruit, leather and tobacco.

“It’s great when you can find a great wine like this at such a good price.” $40.

The Wine Merchant

2006 QUINTA DA BOAVISTA TERRAS DE TAVARES “It needed some time to mellow out, and it has done that very well,” said Parker’s Table owner John Parker. After a dozen years in the bottle, this Dão, Portugal, wine has more balanced notes of dark cherries and earth. $35. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

2007 FIGLI LUIGI ODDERO BARBARESCO “The wine starts out as fairly tannic and astringent,” said Parker. “Over time, the wine softens out, turns paler and has less juicy punch.” After 11 years in the bottle, Parker said this 100 percent nebbiolo wine from Piedmont, Italy, has relaxed from its forceful youth into gentler notes of stewed tomato and spice. $38. Parker’s Table

1997 PÜTZ-BOTZET LISERER SÜSSENBURG RIESLING AUSLESE A rare find from a defunct Mosel, Germany, producer, this classic riesling’s acidity and sweetness have become more prominent with age. “The fruit goes from fresh and ripe to dried and desiccated,” said sommelier Zac Adcox, Reeds American Table general manager. Retail: $24. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com Guide to the Holidays 2018

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

S I X AG E D WINES

Aged wine has a reputation for quality and expense, but time isn’t always money. You can find mature bottles at a steal if you look in less famously ageable regions or luck out with pricing flukes like winery going out-of-business sales or retailers with direct chateau connections. We asked St. Louis wine minds for help selecting bottles over 10 years old for under $45. – Heather Hughes

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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