January 2011

A closer look at salt’s best friend

d ow nt ow n’s n ew st e ak h o u s e · k ic ke d - u p b ar s n a c k s · h o t c h o c o l a t e h a ve n s January 2011

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contents JANUARY 2011

departments 9 À LA CARTE 14 SEASONAL SHOPPER Lovely Lentils Layer On Flavor

14

BY PAT EBY

16 CHEF TALK Putting the Soul in Creole

BY LIGAYA FIGUERAS

58

19 COOK’S BOOKS Around My French Table

BY SHANNON PARKER

20 GOURMET GURU Ready for Prime Time

BY MICHAEL RENNER

22 OLD SCHOOL Old and New Happily Coexist at Lorenzo’s Trattoria

BY LIZ O’CONNOR

25 REAL DEAL Comfy Dining at a Familiar Address

BY S.C. TRUCKEY

27 STL SCENE South City’s Affable Newcomer

features 29 SHORT LIST

cover details

Hot chocolate

BY E M I LY LOWERY

30 THE POWER OF PEPPER A closer look at salt’s best friend

BY STACY SCH U LT Z

BY MATT BERKLEY

47 STUFF TO DO 48 FOOD

36 SWEET, SALTY, SOPHISTICATED Bar snacks go upscale

BY STACY SCH U LT Z

BY BYRON KERMAN

55 ART

BY BYRON KERMAN

58 THE NEW CLASSICS Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar’s Tuscan Seafood Stew

BY KATIE O’CONNOR

38 FRESH AND FRUITY Fruit purées perk up homemade marshmallows

BY SHAN N O N PARK ER

40 FOWL PLAY Local chefs turn to game birds to add depth and variety to winter menus

BY LI GAYA FI G U ER AS

Split Szechwan and whole black peppercorns

Photo by Carmen Troesser THE POWER OF PEPPER, P. 30 downtown’s new steakhouse, p. 20 kicked-up bar snacks, p. 36 hot chocolate havens, p. 29

= recipe on this page

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

H

appy new year! 2011 marks quite a milestone for Sauce: It’s our 10th year in print. Since that first issue in 2001, we’ve covered haunted restaurants and hallowed dining institutions, nationally renowned chefs and great home cooks, foie gras and french fries – and everything in between.

But there’s still so much more to explore, learn and taste, from complex culinary techniques like those Kevin Nashan uses to prepare Sidney Street Cafe’s quail dish (Fowl Play, page 40) to seemingly simple items like pepper (The Power of Pepper, page 30), from unusual ingredients like goji berries (What in the World, page 13) to comforting favorites like hot chocolate (Short List, page 29). The culinary world is full of surprises – it’s what makes documenting it such a challenging and rewarding job – and given the talent and creativity of the culinarians in this town, I’ve no doubt that 2011 will be chock-full of interesting ideas, fascinating people, quality ingredients and great food. We’re looking forward to covering it all for the next 10 years.

Cheers,

Any of Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar’s five flavored popcorns are a worthy pairing with its complex craft beers. Find out which other spots are offering amped-up bar snacks on page 36.

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January 2011

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Katie O’Connor

INTERVIEWS | Read more from Ligaya Figueras’ Chef Talk interview with Molly’s In Soulard’s Bryan Flaxbeard (pictured) and Byron Kerman’s Five Questions interview with restaurateur Michael Del Pietro.

PEPPERCORNS | Find out how to use the peppercorns mentioned in The Power of Pepper in your own kitchen, and learn more about other pepper varieties.

JUST FIVE | Who says great food has to be complicated? In a new online column debuting this month, we will share delicious, gourmet recipes made from – you guessed it – just five ingredients.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

RECIPES | Find ways to make your Super Bowl party fit for foodies with some of the crafty cocktails featured in A Cordial Encounter as well as recipes for the refined bar snacks in Sweet, Salty, Sophisticated.

TWEET BEAT | Every Friday, we round up the best tweets from St. Louis’ tastiest foodies. Some funny, some strange and a few just delicious, Tweet Beat is a list of our favorite tweets of the week. Think your tweets should be on next week’s list? Be sure to follow us on Twitter @saucemagazine.

January 2011

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January 2011

EAT THIS

Don’t let the beauty of the perfect sunny side up egg perched atop the CROSTINI on FIVE BISTRO’s lunch menu stop you from cutting right into it. The brilliant yellow yolk acts like a rich sauce, uniting the salty proscuitto, bright Claverach Farms PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

greens and hearty house-made country boule.

5100 DAGGET AVE. • ST. LOUIS • 314.773.5553

January 2011

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WORD

a with the chef N A M A S H OY U

Organic, raw, unpasteurized soy sauce that’s aged in cedar kegs and goes through a double-brew process so it can naturally contain less salt.

At VegaDeli, executive chef and coowner Leah Mensey uses Nama Shoyu, often referred to as the Champagne of soy sauces, in a lot of the dishes on the restaurant’s menu. “I use it to marinate raw vegetables such as the mushrooms for our raw marinated portobello sandwich,” she said. “I like it because it’s an unfermented product and it’s healthier.”

USE THIS HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING APP

A WORLDLY BAKER LANDS IN THE CWE

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ESSENTIALS VERSION: FREE. COMPLETE VERSION: $4.99. AVAILABLE AT ITUNES APP STORE.

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Being in the food business was the farthest thing from Jaber’s mind until he worked for Marriott in food and beverage after graduating from NYU. He leapfrogged to owning a grocery store, then partnered with his brother to run a café in Montreal. And that did it: Jaber fell madly in love with one of the toughest businesses out there. So he took his dream by the horns, signed up for a space on Euclid Avenue, renovated and opened his café and bakery in December.

Choosing the CWE location was easy: Jaber lives there and frequently alludes to its European flavor, its diversity. It reminds him of his native Beirut and Greenwich Village in New York. “It’s a little bit of everybody and everything. And now my goal is to bring people here from everywhere.”

Jaber shrugged off references to a bad economy. “The economy maybe affects everything but food. This is something new. People want to try it.” He means the café menu’s Lebanese and vegetarian dishes, made fresh, from scratch, using vegetable oil, spices and no preservatives.

The bakery case includes both Middle Eastern sweets and French breads and pastries: sfouf (semolina-almond cake), znoud el sit (filled phyllo shells), petit fours, chausson (turnovers), croissants and brioche. Jaber’s brother, a baker specializing in French pastries who currently resides in Canada, telephones daily to discuss pastry art. It is Jaber himself who bakes all the bread and the baklava. “Anything to do with dough, I do it,” he explained. He also does the garlic sauce, hummus and babaganoush. “Yes, I do like to cook. They tell me to stick with the dough, but I like to learn more.”

Central Café has been open only a month, but Jaber’s already looking for another place. “I want a factory so I can make the bread and croissants and keep this café, here, serving people.”

A Turkish coffee in the morning and an Arabic tea in the afternoon keep Jaber moving through his 15- to 16-hour days. Yet he hates to leave, even when everything is wiped down and put away.

“When you love something, you love it.

Basically, there’s no time for anything else.

Until my baby grows and is successful, this is my time, this is what I do.” His baby is the café, but there is family afoot, too, including his SLU-student daughters, who are his “joy.”

As for free time? More laughter. He enjoys the calm of fly-fishing and he would still like to be a pilot. In the meantime, the Central Café and Bakery is taking off.

– Diana Losciale January 2011

PHOTO BY WESLEY LAW

“I was going to be a pilot.” There was a pause, then Michael Jaber laughed.

The kitchen of his new Central Café and Bakery was busy, nearly raucous in the background.

January 2011

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Brennan’s Grown on the Tree

Dumante is undoubtedly attracted to a Manhattan. At Brennan’s in the Central West End, the staff mixes up a Sicilian Manhattan, made with Dumante, Buffalo Trace Kentucky bourbon, a dash of blood orange bitters and a twist of orange. Last fall, wine shop-art gallery The Vino Gallery, also in the CWE, featured the Dumante Manhattan, pairing Dumante with the Spirits of St. Louis malt whiskey produced by local Square One Distillery, plus a supporting cast of blood orange bitters and a splash of maraschino syrup.

Binaconcini called Dumante Verdenoce perfect for coffee drinks, and Ruth’s Chris Steak House mixologist PJ Doyle agreed. Not only does Doyle use it in the spiked coffee beverages that he prepares at the restaurant’s downtown location, but he finishes the drinks with a generous spray of his homemade whipped cream, a rich combination of Dumante, Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur and the standard heavy cream and sugar.

A CORDIAL ENCOUNTER Green Chartreuse, Benedictine, Blue Curaçao. You’ve heard the names, but what exactly are they? Liqueurs.

Also known as a cordial, a liqueur is generally made by mixing or redistilling neutral spirits with fruits, flowers, herbs, seeds, roots, oils or juices, plus a sweetener. For example, apricot pits are essential to nutty, almond-flavored Amaretto and anise is what lends Pernod its wonderful licorice essence.

Since most liqueurs boast a concentrated, dessert-like flavor, they are perfect as a digestif, served neat, chilled or over ice. However, their color, sweetness, flavoring, alcohol content and sometimes rather viscous texture make liqueurs

indispensable to cocktails, many of which are just right for warding off the winter chill.

Dumante Verdenoce is a luxurious pistachio liqueur that arrived in these parts in early 2010. Dumante COO Luca Bianconcini explained that while an extract is oftentimes used to make liqueurs, Dumante is “a true infusion of pistachios made from the finest pistachios and five different types of vanilla, including Madagascar vanilla.” Another unique aspect, noted Bianconcini, is that the alcohol is derived from Italian molasses instead of a neutral grain spirit such as vodka, thus lending a full flavor and round

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Need another suggestion? Brillet, French maker of small-batch cognacs, offers a dandy pear cognac. Its Belle de Brillet pear cognac is made from a blend of Cognac Brillet and ripe Williams pears. Though the holidays have passed, Brennan’s uses the liqueur in its Grown on the Tree cocktail, an epicurean concoction of pear cognac topped with pear juice and garnished with an aromatic rosemary sprig inspired by the partridge in a pear tree from the Christmas carol.

– Ligaya Figueras

GROWN ON THE TREE Courtesy of Brennan’s Kevin Brennan

2 oz. Belle de Brillet pear cognac 2 oz. pear juice Splash rosemary syrup Rosemary sprig • Pour contents into a shaker filled with ice.

• Shake and strain into a martini glass and garnish with a fresh rosemary sprig.

Annie Gunn’s wine director Glenn Bardgett weighs in on which wines to drink this month, while STL Hops’ Mike Sweeney offers his suggestions for beer. Check your favorite wine shop or liquor store for availability.

JaM Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, Calif. Although JaM theoretically represents owners John and Michele, this “over the top” ripe Napa red reminds me of when I was a kid and nagged my mom to get the Welch’s jelly jar with Howdy Doody on the bottom of the glass. Either way, this is a great fun drink at about $22.

Concannon Petite Sirah 2008, Central Coast, Calif. Since I first tasted this wine, I have been amazed by it. A mind-bogglingly incredible value: a complex and solid red for around $10. P.S.: I love you.

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand I generally don’t like New Zealand Sauv Blancs, but this citrus fruit bomb is what other too-tart, toogooseberry, too-cat-pee producers should emulate. A $15 beauty worth a search.

Art of Neurosis IPA, 2nd Shift Brewery, New Haven, Mo. Local beer means fresh beer, and few things are better than a fresh IPA. The hops in this one just pop: They’re floral, citrusy and piney.

Oatmeal Stout, Samuel Smith Brewery, Tadcaster, England If it weren’t for Samuel Smith, we may be living in a world without oatmeal stouts. While popular in the 1800s, the style almost disappeared for good after World War I. Luckily, Samuel Smith revived it in the 1980s and brought us this silky, smooth-drinking stout.

La Chouffe, Brasserie d’Achouffe, Achouffe, Belgium There’s a time and place for every style. For me, it was Brasserie by Niche and a La Chouffe. The spritzy carbonation helps to push the spicy yeast character to the forefront while keeping the beer light. It’s a perfect beer to cut through some hefty cassoulet.

January 2011

PHOTO BY LAURA MILLER

finish. “And there is half the amount of sugars that most cordials contain. It is naturally flavored, so we don’t have to add a bunch of sugar,” he said.

This superfood of the Himalayas has a mildly sweet yet tangy taste. A dried goji berry, also known as a wolfberry, has the shriveled look and chewy texture of a raisin.

Use it: Tibetans may steep goji berries in tea, but an American palate will revere these berries as a pick-me-up in trail mix, baked goods – bread pudding especially benefits from these pinkish-red berries – or in a bowl of oatmeal. Goji berries, whether dried or reconstituted, star in salads and pair well with fruits and nuts like diced apples, walnuts and sunflower seeds.

Searching for a winter canning session?

Think goji berry and cranberry chutney.

Find it: Whole Foods Market 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, 314.968.7744

APPLE-CHICORY SALAD WITH GOJI BERRIES AND GOAT CHEESE Courtesy of Harvest’s Nick Miller 6 SERVINGS 1 head chicory, washed and torn into pieces 1 small to medium red onion, julienned 2 apples, sliced thin ½ cup candied pecans ¼ cup goji berries, reconstituted* 2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 orange Pinch dry mustard ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground salt and pepper, to taste ½ cup goat cheese, preferably Baetje Farm’s Coeur de la Crème chèvre • Place the chicory, red onion, apples, pecans and goji berries in a mixing bowl.

• Make the dressing by whisking together the vinegar and next five ingredients. Pour over the salad and toss.

• Place equal portions of salad on each plate and crumble cheese over each serving.

*To reconstitute goji berries: 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup dried goji berries 1 cinnamon stick 2 cardamom pods PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

• Combine all the ingredients in a pot and bring to a simmer.

• Cover and allow to steep for 20 minutes.

Strain, discarding cinnamon stick and cardamom pods.

• Refrigerate the goji berries until chilled.

– Ligaya Figueras January 2011

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SEASONAL SHOPPER

lentils without cooking them yourself, try locally made Ah! Zeefa black lentil dips in mild, medium and hot. “I first made Ah! Zeefa for a festival and fundraiser for the Ethopian Evangelical Church; it sold out,” said owner Sine Berhanu. “People called the church and wanted more.”

Whole Foods came knocking in 2007, and Berhanu added Ah! Zeefa to her existing product line of lentil soup mixes, spice blends and buckwheat breakfast cereals. Today, you’ll also find the dips at Local Harvest, Sappington Farmers’ Market, Golden Grocer and The Natural Way. But don’t stop with the dips. Try the Lentils Divine soup mixes in nine flavors ranging from Heavenly Hot, a spicy homage to Berhanu’s Ethiopean roots, to the mild and fragrant St. Louis Savory. The black lentil soups, perfectly spiced, go from stovetop to table in under 30 minutes. Berhanu sells organic black beluga lentils in 8-ounce packages, too. “Lentils always come two in a pod,” she said. “They dry in the fields and they’re harvested mechanically, with a combine.”

Which might explain why every lentil recipe starts with some version of, “Sort through the lentils to remove debris and small stones.” Even high-quality lentils need a once-over, so when you try these lovelies, don’t skip that first step. Be sure to cook across all the colors, too. I was surprised how different each lentil tasted and finished.

LOVELY LENTILS LAYER ON FLAVOR

BY PAT EBY • PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

P

ut simply, lentils are legumes, proteinheavy powerhouses of good nutrition.

They’re also sponges for layering flavors and so quick-cooking you can fix hearty salads, soups and main dishes any time you’ve got a spare hour. The brown lentils I grew up eating in the German-style sausage soups my grandmother cooked remain the most common in the U.S., but world-wide, lentils make for colorful eating.

Black lentils, small as a peppercorn, glisten like caviar when cooked and retain their irregular shape, hence their nickname, black belugas. Delicate red lentils cook down to a

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golden color with a meaty consistency. Puy lentils, aka French green lentils, hold their shape and are greener cooked than they are dried, which makes for delightful salads and sides. Brown lentils, large and small, simmer to a stewy, mushy comfort food, but using different spices and flavorings than Grandmother made cooking brown lentils an adventure.

Recipes for lentils, also called pulses or dals, proliferate in Indian, African and Middle Eastern cookbooks, which makes for fun reading and good taste experiments.

But if you want to taste the wild side of

A lentil soup cooked from Paul Prudhomme’s Fork in the Road cookbook was lush: Large brown lentils spiced with white, black and cayenne pepper, sweetened with apple juice, and livened up with tamari and the lastminute addition of carrots, parsnips, diced zucchini and yellow squash.

I blended several recipes to create a Puy lentil salad, which also uses fregula, a roasted Sardinian pasta for a hearty main-dish salad.

An Indian-style chicken dish with red lentils and rice was fragrant with fresh ginger, toasted ground cumin seeds, serrano chiles, garam masala and cayenne, a wonderful wintry dish.

Venture beyond your grandmother’s lovely German lentil soup with sausage ladled over spaetzle and you’ll see, like I did, another side to this versatile legume.

FREGULA AND LENTIL SALAD 6 to 8 servings ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 cups fregula (large or small)* 2 to 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1½ cups Puy or black lentils 3 cups water or vegetable stock 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 small white or yellow onion, peeled and root plate and stem end cut off 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 2 ribs celery, diced ½ large red or green pepper, diced ½ cup diced red onion ½ cup corn kernels 2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced 3 ∕4 cup crumbled feta cheese Lemon vinaigrette dressing:** ½ Tbsp. finely minced shallot ½ Tbsp. Dijon mustard ¼ tsp. salt 1 to 2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon ½ cup olive oil Freshly ground pepper to taste • Fill a 4-quart pan full with cold water; add salt. Bring to a full boil.

• Add the fregula and cook to doneness, testing after 8 minutes for large pearls and after 6 minutes for small pearls. The cooking time for this roasted pasta varies, so test every 2 minutes until done. When cooked, drain and toss lightly with olive oil.

• Place the lentils in a separate pan and cover with water. Add the thyme, bay leaf, garlic and onion. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer, checking for doneness after 10 minutes. The lentils should be tender, but not mushy. The average cooking time for Puy lentils is 13 to 15 minutes, 12 to 14 for black lentils.

• Drain the lentils, remove the herbs, garlic and onion. While the lentils are still warm, combine them with the vegetables.

• Make the dressing by mixing the shallots with the mustard and salt in a small, deep bowl. Add the lemon juice and whisk together. Add the olive oil in a slow drizzle, whisking constantly, and season to taste with pepper.

• Dress the lentils with the vinaigrette. Arrange the fregula on a platter, making an indentation in the center. Mound the lentils in the indentation, then ring the lentils with the chopped tomatoes. Top with crumbled feta.

Serve chilled or at room temperature. * Fregula is a roasted, nutty Sardinian pasta. It is available locally at Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation and at DiGregorio Imports. You can substitute a small, dense pasta like ditali or large pearl couscous. ** For a spicier dressing, add 1 teaspoon cumin, ½ teaspoon oregano and 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce to the shallots, then add mustard, vinegar and oil as per directions.

January 2011

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CHEF TALK

PUTTING THE SOUL IN CREOLE

BY LIGAYA FIGUERAS • PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Y

ou’d never guess that chef Bryan Flaxbeard was a picky eater, considering that these days the New Orleans native can’t get enough of frog legs, alligator, crawfish and other fare that requires a more adventurous palate.

Flaxbeard’s only job has been working in kitchens, including at Commander’s Palace in NOLA and Las Vegas, as well as stints in Seattle and remote Alaska. The jovial Flaxbeard recently landed his first exec chef position at Molly’s in Soulard, where he’s set to show St. Louisans that although “low and slow” Creole cuisine may not look gorgeous, when it’s well executed, you say, “Wow! It’s food that has a soul.”

You worked at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans and in Las Vegas.

How does the St. Louis palate for Creole compare to those cities? So far, everybody’s been very receptive of it. I’ve gotten reactions like, “This is the way it’s supposed to be? This is awesome!” St. Louis is one of the coolest food towns I’ve lived in.

The chefs are so willing to deal with farmers.

It’s about getting the “cool” stuff, bringing stuff to the table that people have never seen or doing something that they haven’t had like that before. There are so many local farmers who are willing to do whatever. They are like, “You want me to grow you a child?

We’ll figure it out.”

What is authentic Creole to you? Creole is a combination of Caribbean, West African, some country food. It’s also what slaves and poverty-stricken people ate. I think of cornbread, red beans, rice, gumbo ya-ya, which is chicken-andouille gumbo, lots of inexpensive vegetables like onions, peppers and okra. And greens. The masters would take the turnips or the beets and throw the greens away. The slaves took the greens and learned how to stew them down with bacon fat. Creole is a cuisine based on necessity, using what you have and making something beautiful from that.

Flash-fried frog legs with house-made tasso cream and baby arugula at Molly’s in Soulard.

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You have said that there’s “a fine line between Creole and slop.” What do you mean? People assume Creole food is just something you put in a pot, turn it on low and let it go for four and a half hours.

There’s more of a process to everything. Like with pork butts: You brine the pork for a day, slow smoke it for a day, then braise it. Red beans – there are a lot of little things you can do: sauté the garlic and onions, using beer to deglaze, throwing in andouille sausage or tasso or ham hocks, … slow cooking [the beans], … finishing it off with all the things that make red beans delicious.

How do you introduce seasonality into a cuisine whose dishes seem relatively fixed? Or is there something like a summer gumbo and a winter gumbo?

After Thanksgiving, you use leftover turkey and greens and make gumbo with it. So it’s changing things up. Or knowing certain things, like alligator is best when harvested in the spring and summer because there are mammals around and their diet is not consisting of fish. If you get it then, the meat is a lot cleaner. So there is a seasonal thing to that.

You gave me a definition of Creole.

What’s Cajun cuisine to you? Living off the swamp and being in tune with nature. It’s knowing when to go out and catch crawfish, knowing when redfish and drum are going to be running. It’s kind of a spontaneous cuisine – whatever you come out of the swamp with: I got this frog, I got this turtle, I got half a gator, cuz a gator ate half of that gator!

Some diners might be scared off by alligator because, well, it’s alligator. I’ve had a really good reception with buttermilk fried alligator. I think the reason is because it is not alligator in something crazy. It’s served with Dijon-butter poached crab meat.

What’s your secret to making those frog legs so tender that they practically fall off the bone? Just cook them right. Soak them in buttermilk and hot sauce and let it sit for a day. That tenderizes it and starts to impart flavor into the frog. I flash fry it with a bit of seasoned flour, just enough to give a crunch factor. But the crust shouldn’t be the main focus of the dish. I think frog legs are a facilitator for other ingredients, like the tasso cream with mustard in it.

How do you overcome the challenges of sourcing hard-to-get Creole ingredients in St. Louis? Nothing really gets shipped out of Louisiana. Like Ponchatoula strawberries, they barely make it past the border. The only reason they do is because somebody like my mother will stockpile flats and bring them somewhere else. When you call your friends or people you worked with in the past and say, “I would like to showcase your satsumas” or whatever it may be, they are usually like, “Right on!” because it is helping their business. And when you get your hands on stuff like that, you feel like you’re privileged.

MOLLY’S IN SOULARD 816 Geyer Ave. St. Louis, 314.241.6200 January 2011

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January 2011

REVIEW: COOK’S BOOKS

AROUND MY FRENCH TABLE

BY SHANNON PARKER

Cookbook addicts who received bookstore gift cards over the holidays face some difficult choices. 2010 was a banner year for big, beautiful books, a number of which combined arresting photography with good writing, including the latest release from author Dorie Greenspan, Around My French Table.

Greenspan is a prolific cookbook author, who, much like her mentor, Julia Child, spent a good deal of time in Paris as a young adult. And like Child, Greenspan fell in love with French culture, specifically its cuisine, and subsequently dedicated her life to furthering her knowledge of the craft.

Initially, she collaborated with chefs to help them produce high-quality cookbooks but more recently became a celebrated author in her own right.

Her latest effort, released last fall, doesn’t really aim to document any specific regional cuisine, or even to showcase traditional recipes. Instead, Greenspan has written what reads like a love letter to French cuisine. Around My French Table is a collection of her special favorites, culled from years of living and cooking in France. Beginning with a section titled Nibbles and Hors d’oeuvres, she works her way through hundreds of recipes ranging from salads and starters to vegetables and grains to main dishes.

And what French cookbook would be complete without an extensive section on dessert? Greenspan does not disappoint, cluing us in to, among other things, the secret behind the French cook’s chocolate mousse. (Hint: They use Nestle!).

The book looks and feels similar to Greenspan’s previous efforts, only

natural considering that she has once again teamed with photographer Alan Richardson. The photographs are striking but retain a homey quality. Greenspan’s writing is as fresh and vibrant as ever, with a Bonne Idée (good idea) accompanying many of the recipes.

This allows her to delve a little more deeply into the origins of the recipe or to suggest variations. Greenspan is a cook’s cook who clearly enjoys her time in the kitchen; she assumes the reader is also fairly comfortable there, so she doesn’t fool around with time-saving tricks or explanations of fundamentals.

Around My French Table appeared on several Best of 2010 lists at the end of the year, and the accolades are welldeserved. Greenspan has put forth a tome that is both accessible and inspirational.

Julia Child would be proud.

ARO U N D MY FREN CH TABLE: MO RE THAN 30 0 RECI PES FROM MY TABLE TO YO U RS, BY D O RI E G REENSPA N, H O U G HTO N M I FFL I N H A RCO U RT

THE FOUR COOKBOOKS EVERY FRANCOPHILE SHOULD OWN Chef Matthew Abeshouse of Franco recommended these books on French cuisine.

PHOTO BY JONATHAN S. POLLACK

The Country Cooking of France, by Anne Willan and France Ruffenach “This was given to me by a good friend who now works as my sous chef. It has a lot of classics and is very easy to follow. It’s very much for the home cook, but the recipes are not simple by any means. It’s very well put together.”

January 2011

Escoffier: The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, translated by H. L. Cracknell and R. J. Kaufmann “This may be a little tough for the home cook. There is a technique to reading the recipes, and there’s a lot of flipping back and forth between recipes. It’s fun, though, to learn from him and try new things.”

Bouchon, by Thomas Keller “I love everything Keller, but Bouchon is his most approachable book. It’s more my style, more classic.

It’s more brasserie-style food.”

Pierre Gagnaire: Reinventing French Cuisine,

by Peter Lippmann “This tells the story of [Pierre Gagnaire’s] life in recipes.

It’s really more than a cookbook, it has a lot of different menus. He’s considered one of the best.

He was one of the pioneers of molecular gastronomy, but this is 100 percent French. It’s very fun to see his progressions as a cook.”

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Bone-in ribeye and grilled zucchini and tomato “fondue” at Prime 1000.

REVIEW: GOURMET GURU

READY FOR PRIME TIME

BY MICHAEL RENNER • PHOTOS BY LAURA MILLER

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laus Schmitz opens a restaurant and people show up. It has been the case since the German restaurateur first opened Mosaic Modern Fusion a few years back on Washington Avenue, later moving it to a larger space down the street. The same will probably be true when Schmitz opens another Mosaic next year in Des Peres. The empire continues with Prime 1000, Schmitz’s foray into the high-stakes, high-priced world of steak.

There’s a lot of steak in this town. Downtown alone sports 10 steakhouses within about a 10-mile radius of Prime 1000. So how does a steakhouse distinguish itself in a meat-driven city like St. Louis? One way is to include an interesting side dish with the price of that expensive steak, not half a pound of steamed broccoli sloshed with butter for 10 bucks.

Another is to serve three types of steak: grain-fed dry-aged, Missouri grass-fed and Iowa Wagyu. A third, and a prime example of Prime 1000’s appeal, is to challenge our assumptions and expectations of what a steakhouse looks and feels like.

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The restaurant’s name is derived from the sole grade of beef it serves and its Washington Avenue address, formerly belonging to Kitchen K in the historic Merchandise Mart building. Prime 1000 calls itself a modern steakhouse, evident from the magnetic aesthetics, blending the building’s historic charm with modern design: sleek white couches in the waiting area, a cocktail lounge that fits neatly into the hipster Wash Ave. vibe, and leather chairs, simple brown tablecloths and whimsical light sculptures in the dining room. It’s a quieter, warmer feel than Kitchen K’s bright and boisterous open kitchen setup. Even the tagline, “The Art of Steak,” suggests Prime 1000 isn’t your grandfather’s steakhouse; no red leather banquettes or clubby men drinking Cutty at the bar.

Peer into the specially built glass-encased cooling room lined with Himalayan salt blocks and you see the science of dry-aging meat. Executive chef Ben Lester and his staff have cooking all that meat down to a science. Recommending the best is futile. Our

steaks, a 12-ounce ribeye and 10-ounce New York strip, both grass-fed, and the 10-ounce dry-aged ribeye, were seared properly with a salt and pepper crust but offered different flavor profiles. Like a leaner, earthier tasting steak? Go with the grass-fed. Ditto if you prefer eating meat from humanely raised, free-range animals. It comes from Fruitland Farms near Cape Girardeau, where the cattle are raised without hormones or antibiotics on organic pastures. Comparing both ribeyes, I preferred the chewy (but not tough) meatiness of the grass-fed beef over the more tender, mineral-tinged flavor of the grain-fed version, though the concentrated nuttiness of the dry-aging was deliciously pronounced.

There are other cuts: a baseball mitt-sized bone-in ribeye, a 17-ounce T-bone and a wide 25-ounce Porterhouse billed to feed two. All steaks, plus the dry-aged pork and veal chops, come with one of six sauces on the side. The three we ordered, au poivre vert, Cabernet veal reduction and candied bacon jus, complemented the steaks.

There is more than steak on the menu: Tasmanian ocean trout, black bass and a roast chicken. The rack of New Zealand lamb, cooked via the sous-vide method, made the olive oil-marinated, delicately fatted lamb a welcome inclusion. The short rib saffron pappardelle, redolent with pullapart-tender grass-fed beef (braised for six hours), roasted mushrooms, veal jus and shaved grana padano cheese, was a bit sweet but satisfied completely on a cold winter night, especially helpful since any table near the massive windows was a chilly reminder of the season.

At the top of the side dish list – there are 11 – must be the flaky mushroom tart, rich and creamy in a fricassee of maitake, shiitake and crimini mushrooms. Or maybe the grilled zucchini and tomato “fondue,” really a casserole of concentrated sweet delight. Or a plate of lip-smackingly good scalloped sweet potatoes with chipotle and maple; or even grilled asparagus wrapped in paper-thin slices of Spanish Fermin Serrano ham and topped with a poached quail egg, January 2011

worthy of any entrée. Americana comes re-envisioned as a twice-baked potato with chives, bacon and Vermont white Cheddar.

Steamed broccoli? Try brocollini doused with foie gras butter.

A starter of sweetbreads, increasingly common on local menus nowadays, came crisp, meaty and earthy, further enhanced by cubes of bacon, roasted artichoke and a truffle emulsion. Of the two soups sampled, the carrot and elderflower soup reigned, balancing crispy speck (juniper-flavored Austrian ham) and candied sunflower seeds with the slight sweetness of the puréed carrots and aromatic elderflower; the sunchoke and Chartreuse soup was a delightfully creamy purée, rich in its earthy nuttiness with a hint of spice from the chili oil, but nary a hint of the herbal French liqueur.

Naturally, desserts transcend the expected.

Squash bread “French toast-style” with dulce de leche ice cream was too sweet for my palate, but sweet tooths will rejoice. Black pepper spice cake took things in the opposite direction: a flat slice of cake, spiced with pepper and thyme, topped with dollops of whipped cream supporting a long twisted sugar tuile. A splattering of salt caramel, peanuts and blueberries around the plate provided sweet-salty contrasts.

The staff is well-trained and attentive, even if a bit verbose in describing the menu.

Of all St. Louis steakhouses, Prime 1000 is probably the place to be seen. On one night alone, there was a table of two Rams players tucking into thick steaks and a local newscaster out with her hubby. Once the newness subsides, Prime 1000 should still be the prime example of a modern steakhouse.

NEW AND NOTABLE DON’T-MISS DISH: All steaks are exceptional. Just don’t miss the flaky pastry with fricassee of maitake, shiitake and crimini mushrooms.

VIBE: Minimalist, Wash Ave. vibe straddling that L.A.-Las Vegas casual hipness.

ENTRÉE PRICES: $22 to $75 WHERE: Prime 1000, 1000 Washington Ave., St. Louis WHEN: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.

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REVIEW: OLD SCHOOL

Spaghetti bolognese at Lorenzo’s Trattoria.

OLD AND NEW HAPPILY COEXIST AT LORENZO’S TRATTORIA

BY LIZ O’CONNOR • PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

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mong The Hill’s old-school Italian eateries, Lorenzo’s Trattoria is a breath of fresh air. Chef and owner Larry Fuse Jr. welcomes new ingredients into the kitchen, managing to stray from the red sauce standbys without shutting them out completely. This is a place where a contemporary gourmand can order happily alongside her elderly grandma. Fuse opened the restaurant in 1999 and continues to serve updated Northern Italian cuisine to a loyal following.

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Lorenzo’s take on shrimp scampi illustrates Fuse’s knack for turning an old classic into something more current and fresh. Instead of the standard sautéed shrimp on a bed of pasta in buttery, winey sauce, the kitchen lightly breads the shrimp, adding a little crunch, and plates them atop a bed of white beans, roasted peppers and arugula, and adds a dressing of lemon aïoli. The shrimp were plump and moist, with nice charred grill marks. The beans and arugula were warmed together, nicely wilting the

greens, and the lemon aïoli was creamy and acidic. This updated version felt lighter, brighter and offered more texture, color and interest.

The chicken spiedini is also a lighter version of the original, swapping spinach and pancetta for the standard seasoned breadcrumb stuffing. The chicken rolls are seared a dark caramel on the outside, yet aren’t dried out. The accompanying linguini is jazzed up with mushrooms, tomatoes and

capers, the last adding a briny, tangy pop.

All together, the dish sings and never feels heavy.

Unfortunately, not every dish at Lorenzo’s is as successful, like the house-made potato gnocchi with luganega sausage, arugula and cheese sauce. Perfect gnocchi are light and pillowy, but Lorenzo’s were very dense and pasty. The sauce didn’t taste of Gorgonzola or Fontina as advertized and was as thick as biscuit gravy. The sausage and arugula were January 2011

drowning in the sauce. The whole dish lacked balance; it was all heavy, heavy, heavy.

Arancini, too, fell short. These breaded, fried rice balls are one of my favorite things to make and eat; Lorenzo’s version isn’t my favorite.

The rice was mushy, the beef and vegetable filling needed salt, and the breading, while light and crisp, stuck in my teeth.

But another classic was a hands-down winner: a big bowl of spaghetti bolognese. Lorenzo’s sauce is meaty, sweet, tangy and aromatic, and the pasta was a true al dente. It was pure comfort – and I was pleased that the large portion allowed for leftovers.

Balsamic onions added a sweet and sour element to the sausage and roasted pepper pizza. The crust was crispy and airy and the crumbled sausage was bold against the sweet and smoky peppers. The house salad strays from your typical St. Louis Italian salad (iceberg, red onion, Provel, maybe some pimentos) with crunchy toasted pistachios, crispy and salty prosciutto, Asiago and balsamic vinaigrette. The varied textures and bright dressing make it a pleasant choice.

Desserts were memorable. Nocello, a hazelnut and walnut liqueur, added a hint of flavor to the most silky crème brûlée I’ve ever tasted.

The sweet eggy mixture was sheeted with the requisite caramel crust. It was delicate yet rich and texturally superb. The ricotta cheesecake was also very good, with an airy filling, graham cracker crust and a tart raspberry sauce that perfectly cut through the richness.

Service at Lorenzo’s is efficient and friendly.

The décor is typical of many Italian restaurants in the neighborhood, with the dining rooms painted in soft neutrals, and lots of sconces and prints on the wall. Tasty grissini (long, skinny breadsticks) with little ramekins of whipped Gorgonzola await guests at each table – the perfect updated nibble to pair with a nice traditional glass of Chianti from the Italian-heavy wine list.

BACK FOR SECONDS DON’T MISS DISHES: Shrimp scampi, chicken spiedini, spaghetti bolognese VIBE: Family-friendly and festive ENTRÉE PRICES: $13.50 to $23.95 WHERE: 1933 Edwards St., St. Louis, 314.773.2223 WHEN: Lunch: Tue. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Tue. to Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.

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Schnitzel Wiener Art with potato pancakes and baked apples at Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill.

REVIEW: REAL DEAL

The menu is large and diverse, ranging from familiar favorites to more unusual dishes.

Starters, for example, include the requisite toasted ravioli and chicken wings as well as more creative options like Beef Wellington Bites, juicy cuts of succulent beef wrapped in a soft puff pastry. The small rectangles are served hot with a side of veal and scallion demi-glace that’s more like a gravy – it has the potential to ruin the delightful flavor of the meaty bites if not used with discretion.

Shark Bites, bite-sized cubes of tender shark rolled in anchovy chili seasoning and served with a small cup of lemon butter sauce, were enjoyable, although the taste of the shark was difficult to discern, making the meat just a carrier for the spices. Poblano Chicken Puffs, small squares of puff pastry filled with pulled chicken and red bell pepper, were just OK, and the accompanying roasted pepper sauce tasted like a mix of hot sauce and ranch dressing.

A highly notable starter here, however, is the stuffed pepper, served open-faced with the two halves piled high with a wild rice mixture. The nutty rice was subtly spiced with chili oil, and the pepper was beautifully cooked to crisp-tender, its edges nicely blackened in spots.

The house-made soup is a Farmhouse Cheddar Ale made with Cheddar cheese, Amberbock, sliced carrots, celery and bits of chewy bacon. On one visit, it came out tepid, and failed to impress with an almost unpalatable saltiness. And as it cooled more, it became even thicker, eventually turning from a sippable soup into a dense dip.

COMFY DINING AT A FAMILIAR ADDRESS

BY S.C. TRUCKEY • PHOTO BY JONATHAN S. POLLACK

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ocated on the ground floor of the Dorchester high-rise on Skinker, Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill inhabits the space that formerly housed the famous John’s Town Hall – a place frequented by an older

January 2011

crowd, many of whom were likely residents of the building. It appears that Caitlyn’s has retained much of that clientele, making it a great informal hangout without the rowdiness of most bars and grills.

The Forest Park Salad features fresh greens topped with feta, dried cranberries, sliced Granny Smith apples and cordial walnuts.

The cranberry vinaigrette’s tart sweetness is satisfying.

There are several pasta options, including the Tuscan Angel Hair with pesto, savory sundried tomatoes, crushed garlic and feta. It’s a well-rounded dish, with al dente noodles and harmonious flavors.

The main course list offers an interesting array of items, one of the most affordable

being something called a Schnitzel Wiener Art. It’s two thick slices of lightly breaded pork drizzled with the veal demi-glace. The meat is mouthwateringly good, especially when followed by a bite of the potato pancakes or the sizzling baked apples that come with it. The pancakes are dense rather than light and potato-y, and they need a sour cream or something rich on top to balance out the starch. The apples, however, are delightful: crispy on the edges and infused with cinnamon and sugar. The variance of textures and flavors really carries this dish.

The back side of the menu lists a half-dozen sandwiches. The meatloaf, served open-faced, features a slice of meatloaf on a piece of thin white sourdough bread with some mashed potatoes; both are covered in a vinegary, creamy white gravy. The meatloaf slice itself is insubstantial, lacking the texture and depth of a homemade slice of loaf. The potatoes are the highlight here, prepared in a chunky, homey style.

The pork tenderloin arrives on a large Kaiser roll that’s been crisped on the grill; it sandwiches breaded pork topped with creamy coleslaw. The meat was perfectly pink but perhaps not fit for a sandwich; it was hard to bite through. The sweetness of the coleslaw, which is quite good despite coming from a tub, was a nice contrast to the meat’s savory taste.

Caitlin’s is a cozy joint on a cold day, with a comfortable small town feel, decent fare and a cast of characters to watch.

FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS DINE-IN-ABILITY: A cozy, informal dining room and friendly staff will make you feel at home.

FEAST OR FAMINE: The menu is well-rounded and diverse, but heavy on the bar and grill food.

TRY IT YOU’LL LIKE IT: The stuffed pepper and the Schnitzel Wiener Art

WHERE: Caitlin’s Green Eyed Grill, 665 S. Skinker Blvd., St. Louis, 314.862.5077

WHEN: Tue. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., Sun. – 11 a.m. to midnight

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REVIEW: STL SCENE

SOUTH CITY’S AFFABLE NEWCOMER

BY MATT BERKLEY • PHOTOS BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

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ertain drinks can ease your mind and improve your charm. For me, it’s a full glass of dark, robust, intensely flavored red wine – nothing too sweet or overly pungent. When it’s right, a good glass of red lets you instantly savor that light-in-the-head, warm-in-the-stomach feeling. The Lorca Fantasia Malbec – a rich Argentinean with a touch of oak flavor – is one of these. To judge for yourself, head south and grab a glass at 3500 Winehaus, Lindenwood Park’s newest (well, OK, first) wine bar. There’s a stool waiting for you.

This affable South City newcomer shatters the common misperception of wine bars as purveyors of stingy pours and cheap wholesale bottles marked up beyond belief.

Winehaus is the real deal. Along with the Malbec in question, the bar serves as home to an impressive but not-too-intimidating collection of 85 bottles from a variety of international grapes. Likewise, the by-theglass menu offers two dozen reds, whites and a handful of sparkling wines. Generous pours go for $6.50 to $9 a glass. Although

January 2011

the menu features quite a few unique vintages, it’s clear that Winehaus owners John and Marci Kuehner focus on keeping things approachable with a simple and thoughtfully chosen selection.

Simple and thoughtfully chosen seems to sum up Winehaus as a whole, from the décor to the music, even the wait staff, who are friendly but not overbearing.

Advertised as a wine bar and marketplace, it’s easy to imagine Winehaus as a retail center flush with racks and only a few measly stools thrown in. Thankfully this isn’t the case. Make no mistake folks, Winehaus is, first and foremost, a proper nighttime destination. If you didn’t know differently, you’d immediately assume from the décor that Winehaus was, like most of its neighbors, an Italian restaurant (which is the reason this place fits in so seamlessly with the neighborhood). The stone-floored, softly lit main room is lined with a handful of high-tops and an inviting wraparound couch hugging the corner windows.

Hovering over the small center bar, a pair

of boards announce the by-the-glass choices.

Two patios are available: the front, which is covered during the winter and holds a dozen or so tables, and the rear, an open space for smokers with a fire pit and even a few blankets. Construction will soon be under way on a wine cellar for private parties.

The space, like the wine, is meant to promote socializing and sharing. Accordingly, the seats at Winehaus are often packed with friends and neighbors happy to imbibe at a spot unlike any other in the area. The crowd skews decidedly older, but that doesn’t keep out the 20- and 30-somethings, date-night couples and the gaggle of cute girls convening over a bottle or two of White Zinfandel.

To supplement the wine offerings, the Kuehners also feature a number of bottled beers: Goose Island 312, Hoegaarden, Matilda Belgium Ale. Although beer is not the focus here, the lack of local offerings on the list is one of Winehaus’ few shortcomings (A-B products are the only local choices).

Also available are short lists of whiskeys,

brandys and spiked coffees, along with a selection of cheese, sausage, hummus and other appetizers, some from local restaurants and purveyors.

Bottom line: Winehaus is one of South City’s best nighttime destinations. A comfortable spot, perfect for a first date or a meeting with friends, that’s less about designer bottles and more about why we come to bars in the first place – great booze and good conversation.

STL AFTER DARK CHECK IT: Lindenwood Park’s first proper wine bar HIPSTER OR HOOSIER: Winos, post-dinner crowd, first daters, girls-night-out crews.

SUDS OR ’TINIS: Though beer is available, this place is all about the vino.

WHERE: 3500 Winehaus Wine Bar and Marketplace, 3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463 WHEN: Tue. and Wed. – 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Thu. – 10 a.m. to midnight, Fri. and Sat. – 10 a.m. to 1:30 a.m.

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Since bitter temps demand that hot chocolate be consumed in vast quantities, those of us cuckoo for cocoa couldn’t be happier this time of year. Our top three cups will all satiate your inner child’s sweet needs as well as your adult craving for strong, complex flavors. High-quality chocolate is front and center, so these are worth leaving home for, no matter how low the mercury dips. Keep in mind that while we stuck with dark chocolate varieties, each location offers a range of flavors.

– Emily Lowery

PHOTOS BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

Baileys’ Chocolate Bar

1915 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.8100

2301 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.2310

Kakao Chocolate

Café Cioccolato

The Chocolate Bar’s inclusion on this list may be expected, but it’s also ridiculously well-deserved. The Dark and Rich version served up at Lafayette Square’s sweetest eatery scores as a hearty winter pick-me-up that’s so thick, it could easily be mistaken for a meal.

Chocolate disks from Swiss chocolatier Felchin are fused with half-and-half, skim milk, cocoa and sugar – the result coating your mouth with molten joy. A delicate chocolate swizzle stick is served alongside, so give it a quick swirl in the steamy liquid, then savor the melt-inyour-mouth effect.

Kakao employs its own mix of cocoa powder, dark chocolate and sugar to treat customers. A small amount of hot milk is poured over two to three spoonfuls of the blend to properly melt the ground chocolate. Then the concoction is stirred into a paste and, after a minute or so, the rest of the milk is added. Light foam tops things off nicely, and it’s served in a to-go cup for easy onthe-run consumption. For those with a DIY inclination, take home a bag of the mix to make whenever the fancy strikes.

At this downtown chocolate, wine and art lounge, definitely request one of the house-made marshmallows (oh, how we adore those crispy-on-the-outside, wonderfully gooey-on-the-inside delights), which are sprinkled with cocoa powder and delivered on the bottom of a becoming mug. The hot chocolate is then poured on top, resulting in liquid decadence. It all starts with disks of pure Swiss chocolate, which are melted down and mixed with whole milk to create a sinfully dense drink that’ll keep you coming back for more all winter long.

January 2011

816 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.345.1200

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Split Szechwan peppercorns, available at Penzeys Spices, 7338 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.7177.

a closer look at salt’s best friend by stacy schultz | photos by carmen troesser

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January 2011

eppercorns are the most widely traded spice in the world. After all, as the tale goes, Christopher Columbus sailed west looking not for gold but for a shorter route to India to gather the prized spice. Today, most of us know pepper as salt’s longtime companion.

And sure, we’ve dabbled with the green variety in gumbos and Jungle Curry or used szechwans to spice up pad kee mao, a ground meat and rice noodle dish flavored with Thai basil. But these applications only touch the surface of what’s possible with the pungent little berries, one of the most versatile – and intriguing – ingredients in any kitchen.

Take black peppercorns, for instance.

Left whole, these dried, dark fruits add full-bodied spice to chicken-based soups and, when cracked, form a crisp, pungent blanket for steak au poivre. But bring black peppercorns out of their comfort zone into something, say, a bit sweeter, and their flavor shines in an entirely new light.

When Amy Zupanci and 222 Artisan Bakery’s Matt Herren went looking to create a signature cookie for Zupanci’s general store/café Township Grocer in Edwardsville, they took inspiration from a dish Zupanci was serving at her neighboring fine-dining restaurant, Fond: a Parmesan ravioli with continued on page 35 January 2011

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Sunset 44 Bistro’s oyster appetizer rests on a bed of kosher and sea salts and black and pink peppercorns.

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PEPPER’S BROAD SPECTRUM Green peppercorns are picked from the plant unripened and are often freeze-dried to preserve their color and texture, then steamed and dehydrated. They have a mild, clean flavor with a slight fruitiness and are available dried or packed in either a vinegar or water brine. They combine well with sweet spices and are often used in steak au poivre, terrines, curries and on grilled meat, poultry and seafood.

Peppercorns are small berries that ripen inside flowers of the Piper nigrum plant. Other spices that don’t grow on the Piper nigrum are also called peppercorns thanks to their appearance, flavors and applications. Here’s a look at those you will come across locally – at the market and on the plate.

Pink peppercorns aren’t technically pepper; they’re the fruit of the Brazilian pepper tree. They come dried or pickled, are soft and can be crushed with a mortar and pestle or large knife blade (these aren’t for the pepper mill). They have a fresh, piney, citrusy aroma and a delicate, fruity, slightly tart flavor reminiscent of a juniper berry. They’re used for their color and as a seasoning for fish, poultry and fatty game meats.

Black peppercorns are Piper nigrum berries picked just before they ripen and are typically sun-dried until they shrivel. They’re the most robust in flavor and come in varieties named for their region of origin. The Indian Telecherry is larger than most, carries a more full-bodied flavor and is considered one of the finest spices in the world. They’re used to flavor soups and stews as well as roasted and grilled meats, eggs, even strawberries.

White peppercorns are the seeds of ripe Piper nigrum berries, which are exposed to water to remove the dark husk and then dried. They’re milder in flavor than black but still pungent and can be slightly hotter.

Malaysian Sarawak have a rich, winey, sometimes hot flavor, while Indonesian Muntok have an intense peppery taste. They’re used in light sauces and on fish and contribute a mellower pepper flavor to some Thai and Japanese dishes.

Szechwan peppercorns are the dried berries of a prickly ash tree native to China. They come whole, split (with the seed removed) or ground. They taste woody, pungent and slightly citrusy and produce a numbing, tingling effect on the tongue. They’re a traditional component of Chinese five-spice powder and are used in Chinese cooking for stir-frying, roasting meat or poultry, and with green beans, mushrooms and eggplant.

GRIND IT RIGHT The best way to get the most flavor and aroma from peppercorns is to buy them whole and grind them as you need them. But it doesn’t stop there. Knowing which setting to use on the pepper mill can mean the difference between a perfectly spiced roast and a pungency that overwhelms the palate.

January 2011

Whole: Great for pickling and to flavor soups and stews; wrap in cheesecloth and remove before serving.

Cracked: Great for rubbing on slowly cooked roasts such as beef, pork or poultry.

Coarse: Ideal for high-heat cooking like grilling steaks, chops and vegetables and perfect on salads.

Fine: Good for smaller and quicker-cooking cuts of poultry, steak, chops and fish.

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BLACK PEPPER COCKTAIL Courtesy of Fond’s Amy Zupanci 2 tsp. black pepper-infused simple syrup (recipe follows) 2 tsp. honey-infused simple syrup (recipe follows) 3 oz. Drambuie scotch liqueur Honey Lemon slice • Combine the pepper syrup, honey syrup and Drambuie in a cocktail shaker.

• Shake and pour into a rocks glass full of ice.

• Add a drizzle of honey and a lemon slice.

For the black pepper-infused simple syrup ½ cup whole black peppercorns 2 cups simple syrup • Heat the simple syrup in a pot.

Once hot, add the peppercorns and remove from the heat.

• Once the syrup comes to room temperature, strain it to remove the peppercorns.

For the honey-infused simple syrup ¾ cup honey ¼ cup water • Combine the ingredients in a pot and heat.

• Once the syrup is hot, remove it from the heat and let it come to room temperature.

GREEN PEPPERCORN BÉARNAISE Courtesy of Pomme Restaurant’s Stephen Trouvere 6 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. whole dry green peppercorns* 2 medium shallots, sliced thin 2 sprigs tarragon, plus 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon leaves ¼ cup white vinegar ½ cup dry white wine 3 egg yolks 4 to 6 oz. clarified butter, at room temperature 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. salt • Put the peppercorns in a grinder or coffee mill and grind fine. It will look like a lot, but you need it all.

• Place the ground pepper in a small nonreactive pot with the shallots, tarragon, vinegar and wine.

• Bring to a simmer and let the liquid reduce gently for about 5 minutes. Pour through a mesh strainer into a stainless steel bowl, and press on the solids to extract all the juice. You should have about ¼ cup of liquid.

• Let the liquid cool briefly, then add the egg yolks.

• Meanwhile, rinse out your pot, add an inch of water to it and put it back on the heat until it simmers gently.

• Put the bowl with the yolk mixture on top of the pot and whisk continually for about 3 to 4 minutes or until the mixture becomes pale and fluffy and mounds in soft peaks.

• Once the mixture is at the desired consistency, immediately remove the bowl from the heat.

• Continue whisking while drizzling in the clarified butter a few drops at a time at first, then in a thin stream. Whisk vigorously for the best consistency. After adding 4 ounces of butter, add the 2 tablespoons of fresh tarragon leaves, the lemon juice and the salt.

• Taste the sauce and check its consistency. If the sauce is stiff like whipped cream, whisk in a tablespoon of tepid water. If it’s too tangy, whisk in a little more butter. Adjust the salt to your liking, and keep the sauce warm until serving. *If you are using brined green peppercorns instead of dry, use this method: Add 3 tablespoons peppercorns to the wine and vinegar, and purée in a blender or with an immersion blender until the peppercorns are very well crushed. Add the shallot and herbs to this liquid, then proceed as above.

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the zest and juice of fresh lemons, coarsely ground black peppercorns and a touch of spearmint. Penzeys’ lemon extract and ground black peppercorns are mixed to create a cookie that’s sweet, sour, just a touch spicy and delightfully unexpected.

“It’s not the conventional lemon pepper spice blend that’s in conventional grocery stores,” Zupanci said. “Individually, black pepper and lemon are really great complements. Lemon is refreshing and black pepper is really aggressive; I like to find the yin and yang.”

Zupanci has toyed with other ways of balancing the robust flavor of black peppercorns, even using them in cocktails.

She combines pepper-infused simple syrup with local honey syrup, Drambuie scotch liqueur and lemon, shakes it, finishes it with a touch of lemon and a drizzle of honey, and serves it on the rocks. Sweet, peppery perfection.

When working with fish, however, Zupanci prefers the mellower flavor of Muntok white peppercorns. “Black pepper on a white, really nice, light fish is really aggressive and you’re going to taste it,” she explained. “We want you to taste the fish and think that it’s a really nice fish, not that there’s pepper on it.”

At Overlook Farm in Clarksville, executive chef Tim Grandinetti chooses white peppercorns less for their variance in flavor from the black variety than for their difference in hue, using the beige berries to keep a pure color in light-colored dishes.

He blends them with a rich roux for a silky béchamel and incorporates them into a steamy pot of ground cornmeal and stock for a smooth, creamy polenta. Franco chef Matthew Abeshouse also reaches for white peppercorns when preparing his housemade chicken sausage – a combination that works both for the eye and the palate.

“They have a softer flavor that balances out the sausage and they keep the little black specks out,” he noted.

Pink peppercorns, however, deliver just the opposite: bright, bold flavor and eyepopping color. Abeshouse substitutes the soft peppercorns for the fruit in a not-soclassic gastrique he pairs with duck confit.

He mixes the layers of fat and jus that form on the duck with red wine vinegar, January 2011

sugar and pink peppercorns, and heats the mixture until it becomes a bold sauce that cuts the fattiness of the dish with a perfect zing. Over at Sunset 44 Bistro, new executive chef Tony Nguyen will be using pink peppercorns as a burst of color – and flavor – in his oyster appetizer. He lays oysters on a bed of sea and kosher salts, black and pink peppercorns, thyme and fresh rosemary. “They’re beautiful,” he said of the pink pepper. “They have a mild citrus taste to them, like a citrusy sweetness that also works really well in fruit sauces and desserts.”

Township Grocer’s lemonpepper cookies, made by 222 Artisan Bakery.

Nguyen turns to the mild, fruity flavor of green peppercorns to add yet more peppery flavor to steak au poivre. For the sauce he serves with the dish, he sautés finely minced shallots and grated garlic in some olive oil, flambés it with some brandy and adds cracked green peppercorns, followed by demi-glace. “The flavor leaves a little fiery note right at the bottom of your throat; it’s a nice heat but it’s not overwhelming,” he explained. “The aroma is really bright and lively.”

For Bryan Carr, chef and partner at Atlas, Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Café and Wine Bar, zesty green peppercorns balance the deep, smooth flavors in his béarnaise and pâtés. “They are both rich and have a lot of fat; you have to have some relief from that otherwise the first bite coats your mouth and, by the third, you’ve had enough,” he noted.

Carr softens the peppercorns by soaking them in brandy, leaving them whole in the béarnaise and using a combination of whole and cracked in the pâté. While chefs sometimes turn to wine or mustard to cut the fat in rich sauces, he counts on the clean, sharp flavors of green peppercorns to get the job done.

No matter what you’re looking for – fruity or fiery, smooth or strong – peppercorns can add that little extra punch to nearly any dish. Try playing with their natural flavors for even more versatility, toasting whole peppercorns in a dry skillet for a nutty boost or soaking them in brine or liquor to soften and infuse them with your favorite flavors. That’s the thing about pepper: Just when you thought you knew all this kitchen workhorse had to offer, it surprises you – and oh, is that surprise delicious. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

bar snacks go upscale by stacy schultz | photos by carmen troesser As long as there have been bars, there have been bar snacks. But several spots around town have raised the bar on snacking while you sip, using refined flavors to perk up familiar favorites. The best part?

No knife or fork is needed – after all, that beer won’t drink itself.

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SALSA VERDE DEVILED EGGS Don’t let the paprika fool you: These are not your grandma’s deviled eggs. The creative gang over at Taste has made a classic hors d’oeuvre into a scrumptious bar-time snack, infusing the essence of a traditional green sauce into a nibble worthy of the über-creative cocktails it accompanies. White anchovies deliver big, bright flavors – plenty salty and slightly tangy – while garlic, shallots, parsley and tarragon round it all out, making a dish that’s bold, balanced and perfect for snacking.

that’s what the crew at Bridge had in mind when they created five fantastic flavors of everyone’s favorite salty snack: popcorn. In the mood for something spicy?

Try the bitter, pungent wasabi ginger or the smoked Spanish paprika. Want something a bit sweeter? Go for the cinnamon and sugar notes in the chai spice or cozy up to the smooth richness of the chocolate coffee.

Looking for something a bit more subtle? Try the mildly sweet-salty combination of the honey and beet powder. And you thought picking a beer was gonna be tough.

CHEESE CRACKERS

PASTA CRUNCHERS

Cielo

Jimmy’s On The Park

They may look familiar: rectangular cheesy crackers, light and airy on the inside, crisp and crunchy on the outside. But these crackers didn’t come from any box.

A light hand on the salt lets the cheese’s natural flavors stand out, resulting in a gourmet snack that’s flavorful enough to keep your taste buds piqued and addictive enough to make you ask the bartender for a refill (go ahead, they’re free).

Anyone who’s ever munched on a dry noodle or two before tossing them into the pot, this one’s for you: dried imported fettuccine noodles, flash-fried in hot peanut and vegetable oils, topped with special seasoning, baked and airdried to crisp, flavorful perfection.

Jimmy’s On the Park’s famous pasta crunchers have all the characteristics of the perfect bar snack: salty, crunchy and light enough to keep munching all night long. A secret combination of about 20 seasonings and condiments creates that salty, slightly smoky, can’t-quite-putyour-finger-on-it, lick-your-lips flavor.

Taste By Niche

NUTS Ernesto’s Wine Bar

Nothing says bar snack better than nuts, and once you’ve had the spiced mixes at Ernesto’s, it will be hard to go back to plain old honey roasted. Pick one of the three varieties for the wine bar’s snack plate – or, if you’re feeling really nutty, go for all three – and enjoy the simple, subtle flavors of this kicked-up snack. From the slightly spicy curried cashews to the earthy sweetness of the rosemary walnuts to the lightly floral lavender Marcona almonds, these are a surprising – and welcome – way to enjoy an old favorite.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Nuts at Ernesto’s Wine Bar, cheese crackers at Cielo and flavored popcorn at Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar. Opposite page: Praline bacon at Monarch.

January 2011

POPCORN Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar

Salty snacks and cold beer go hand in hand. We’re pretty sure

PRALINE BACON Monarch

Praline bacon – need we say more? Executive chef Josh Galliano cooks thick strips of house-cured bacon with crushed nuts and a hefty helping of brown sugar, transforming everyone’s favorite food into a snack of complex sugary deliciousness that’s more-than-suitable for imbibers. It’s crisp-chewy and salty-sweet – good luck stopping at just one helping. But be warned: This one’s sure to leave your hands a little sticky, but that’s a small price to pay for bacon candy.

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Fruit purĂŠes perk up homemade marshmallows by shannon parker | photo by ashley gieseking

Layered mango and blackberry marshmallows.

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don’t like chocolate.

Don’t get me wrong, I like to work with chocolate and I know for most desserts and confections, it’s the go-to ingredient.

It’s just that I find the taste of chocolate overpowers everything else in the dish.

And it’s just so expected; it seems like everything you can do with chocolate has already been done. If I’m going to have something sweet, I prefer that it be fruitbased, light and a little unusual.

Enter the fruit marshmallow.

Plain marshmallow recipes typically call for two main parts, a base – a sugar and water syrup – and a bloom, usually a mixture of gelatin and water. You heat the base to around 250 degrees, stir in the bloom and whip the mixture thoroughly. Simple, right? Yes, but also a bit bland. I like to try to get as much flavor as possible into the little confections and, for me, that means making fruit marshmallows.

I have discovered that there are two main ways to infuse fruit flavor into marshmallows. The easiest is to substitute some type of fruit juice for the water in both the base and the bloom. I’ve had success using liquids such as orange juice, apple cider and mango nectar. But marshmallows are the Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm of the culinary world, that is, they’re intensely sweet and they have a tendency to overwhelm the delicate flavor of some juices. In order to combat this, I’ve found that it’s a good idea to reduce down the juice by about half in order to boil off some of the water and concentrate the fruit flavor.

The second way is to purée the fruit itself and add it to the base and to the bloom. Puréed strawberries, blackberries or bananas add a more intense flavor than the juice alone and, depending on the fruit, lend a vibrant color as well. (Be sure to strain out the seeds or you’ll have a weird texture.)

January 2011

Among my marshmallow experiments, I’ve had a few flops. Literally. I’ve used fruit purées that, despite enough whipping to make a dominatrix blush, quite simply refused to inflate. It seems that certain tropical fruits, chiefly mango and passion fruit, contain a protein-dissolving enzyme that negates the power of the gelatin. You can combat this by using products such as mango nectar or by cooking a purée for five or 10 minutes before use.

Some cooks like to punch up the color of the marshmallows with a little food coloring. But some types of natural food colorings contain oil, and any marshmallow, fruit-flavored or plain, likes fat about as much as your average Hollywood housewife. Any sort of fat or oil will cause the confection to deflate immediately, so a gel-based food coloring is often the safest bet.

You can seriously up the cuteness factor of fruit marshmallows in several ways. Make a batch of, say, blueberry marshmallows in a rather thin sheet, and then pour a vibrant blackberry batch on top. When you cut them, you’ll have double layers of flavor and color. Although I don’t tend to be handy with the pastry bag, those who are could easily pipe the fresh marshmallows into shapes. Easier for me is to use a cookie cutter when the marshmallows are set.

Although I tend to eat fruit marshmallows straight up, you can easily use them in recipes which call for plain. Wouldn’t passion fruit marshmallows punch up an oldfashioned ambrosia salad? Or if you absolutely must have chocolate, how about strawberry marshmallows scattered on top of a fudgy brownie?

Just hold the brownie for me.

BLACKBERRY MARSHMALLOWS Since it’s the middle of winter, it’s best to use frozen berries, but if you make this

recipe at the height of berry season, by all means use fresh. You’ll need two 10-ounce bags to make enough purée. Just whoosh the berries around in a food processor fitted with the metal blade, then pass the purée through a metal sieve in order to remove the seeds. Marshmallows can be made in any sized pan – a 9-by-13-inch pan gives good results. A smaller pan will yield thicker marshmallows, a larger pan will give you thinner ones. Whatever pan you choose, be sure to oil it well or you won’t be able to remove the marshmallows.

Bloom 4 Tbsp. unflavored gelatin 1¼ cups blackberry purée Base ½ cup water ²∕³ cup blackberry purée 1¼ cup light corn syrup 2 cups sugar Coating 2 Tbsp. cornstarch ¹∕³ cup powdered sugar • Prepare the bloom by placing the gelatin in a small bowl. Add the purée and stir well. The mixture will begin to thicken quickly. Set aside.

• Mix all the base ingredients together in a large sauce pan and heat over medium-high heat. Clip a candy thermometer onto the pot and cook until the mixture reaches 250 degrees, about 10 minutes.

• Remove the pan from the heat and quickly stir in the bloom. The mixture will foam up, so stir carefully until the bloom is completely incorporated.

• Pour the batter into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

Mix on a low speed then gradually increase the speed to medium-high. Let the mixture whip for between 5 and 10 minutes, or until it is fairly stiff but still spreadable. Immediately pour the mixture into a well-oiled pan.

• Let the pan sit, uncovered, on the counter overnight. This is called curing and reduces some of the stickiness factor.

• Remove the marshmallow slab from the pan and place it on a cutting board.

Mix the coating ingredients together and lightly sprinkle some over the uncut marshmallow.

• Use a pizza cutter to cut the slab into bitesized pieces, then toss the pieces with the remaining coating so they will not stick together.

• Store the coated marshmallows for several days at room temperature.

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Local chefs turn to game birds to add depth and variety to winter menus by ligaya figueras | photos by greg rannells

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Wild pheasants.

G

ame bird hunters know that a good bag means hearty meat dishes for the winter table. Whether it’s an upland game bird like pheasant or quail, or waterfowl like geese, this feathered flock offers a palatable change of pace from same old, same old chicken, and the savory smells and flavors of game bird being served at area restaurants this time of year will have you calling in your reservation in no time.

TASTES LIKE CHICKEN? Pheasant, quail and goose sound interesting enough, but discerning diners know that taste trumps everything else. Does the standard response of “it tastes like chicken” apply to these birds?

The chicken analogy is perhaps closest to the fairly white meat of pheasant. Chef Josh Galliano of Monarch described this semi-wild cousin to chicken as being “pretty mild,” particularly so with farmraised species. “It [tastes] very much like chicken, with the skin being a littler crisper,” said Galliano, whose smoked pheasant breast, offered as a special in November, is likely to make an encore this month.

January 2011

Sidney Street Cafe chef-proprietor Kevin Nashan agreed, adding that pheasant can be a good introduction to game bird because it does not

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Sassafrass Valley Farm’s gray Toulouse and white Embden geese.

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have a gamey flavor. “It’s nuttier than chicken and there’s some nice yellow fat in there. If you like turkey, you will love pheasant,” commented Nashan, who is showcasing a dish of pheasant breast and leg on the restaurant’s current menu.

Quail is likewise fairly mild, making it a good choice for a variety of preparations. “It’s surprisingly mild for such a dark-colored bird,” said Wes Johnson, chef de cuisine at Eclipse. “It doesn’t taste like chicken. It’s more like the dark meat off of a wild turkey.” Johnson has been running periodic specials of grilled quail served with braised lentils and roasted sweet potatoes, and for a recent private event held at Eclipse, he prepared grilled quail salad: delicate semi-boneless quail resting atop a bed of greens tossed in raspberry vinaigrette and creatively garnished with coriander candy. Reminiscent of brittle, the citrusy, sugared coriander paired well with the tangy fruitiness of the dressing while enhancing the distinct flavor of the quail.

January 2011

Stuffing the bird is another strategy.

To prepare lacquered quail at The Schlafly Tap Room, executive chef Andy White stuffs the bird with a mixture of brioche and spicy sausage.

White slow roasts the bird, basting it with a combination of pomegranate molasses, chicken stock and mirin, a Japanese sweet cooking wine. White explained that the sweetness of the

glaze balances the spiciness of the sausage stuffing.

Justin Leszcz of YellowTree Farm, who raises quail, squab and other small birds as part of his boutique farming operation in Affton, called quail a “dark, rich meat.” The urban farmer added that compared to other farmraised quail, the meat from his quail has “twice the darkness and twice the richness. It’s really, really red.” As part of the diet for his animals, Leszcz milk-finishes them, mixing powdered milk into their grains.

Farm-raised birds are generally tender and taste less gamey than their wild counterparts, which is the case with geese from Sassafras Valley Farm in Morrison, Mo. “Very clean and rich” is how Terrene executive chef Brian Hardesty described the taste of the Sassafras geese he uses to prepare the seared goose breast at the Central West End restaurant.

Sassafras’ breeds of German Embden and French Toulouse geese are freerange and natural pasture-raised; they thrive on a diet of artesian well water, natural grasses, clover, trefoil, dandelion and crabgrass along with vegetables, fruits and grains.

Sassafrass “Mother Goose” Connie Cunningham, now in her third year of production, brings the waterfowl to market when the geese are seven months old (and weigh an average of 7 pounds) “because they’re very tender and young but fully mature size-wise,” said Cunningham.

(Sassafrass’ geese are sold whole and frozen or smoked and ready to serve at Straub’s in Clayton and Local Harvest Grocery in Tower Grove.)

FRESH WAYS WITH FOWL Searing, roasting and grilling are oft-used cooking methods for game birds, particularly when working with the meaty breast, yet chefs are hardly going to toss the rest.

In fact, thighs, legs, wings, some innards and skin can be used to prepare numerous other meat treats like sausages, meatballs, terrines and cassoulets, which can be served on their own or as a secondary component of a bird dish.

For example, Hardesty’s pan-seared goose breast is just one element of a dish that also includes a savory crêpe of goose leg confit, rutabaga and chanterelle mushrooms. A confit is a French method of preserving meat – especially poultry – by cooking it slowly in its own fat. Once the goose leg is tender, Hardesty removes the fat and shreds the moist, delicate meat.

To complete the dish, Hardesty plates the crêpe and seared goose breast napped with red wine demi-glace and a garnish of crispy goose cracklins, accompanied by sautéed Brussels sprouts and blue cheese-stuffed figs.

Over at Sidney Street, Nashan serves the menu’s Wisconsin pheasant breast with a “ballotine” of pheasant leg, although he’s adamant about keeping the meat together rather

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Terrene’s pan-seared goose breast with a crêpe of goose leg confit, left, and Sidney Street Cafe’s pheasant breast with ballotine of leg.

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than shredding it. This requires deboning the leg, tenderizing it with pomegranate or sorghum molasses, wet-curing it overnight, rolling it up and sous vide cooking it for three or four hours, then crisping it and cutting it into roulades, or thin slices. “This allows us to keep it whole and give it respect,” said Nashan, “but it’s a hell of a lot more labor-intensive.” The dish, he said, “is really screaming for potatoes, but we kind of fake it out with cauliflower.” A cauliflower purèe and thyme reduction lend the creaminess that a potato would proffer without masking the flavor of the pheasant, explained Nashan.

But perhaps the ultimate in game meat cookery – and creativity – is required of White every February, when the chef is tasked with preparing owner Tom Schlafly’s private game dinner. “His hunting buddies pile up everything they killed on me. There will be 15 different species of animals and there are always a ton of birds,” said White. “We do a grand, funky type of buffet.” Black bear egg rolls and antelope rice balls may be part of the big game banquet, but small bird dishes like partridge terrine and diminutive dove breasts prepared in the manner of a country-fried steak add to the glory of the season’s meaty fare. “I just love little game birds!” cooed White.

January 2011

GRILLED QUAIL WITH BRAISED LENTILS AND ROASTED SWEET POTATOES Courtesy of Eclipse’s Wes Johnson 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup honey 1 cup water 4 semi-boneless quail 1 cup French green lentils 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 tsp. thyme 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 celery ribs, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 1 cup chicken stock Salt and pepper 2 cups sweet potatoes, roasted • Mix the honey and water, then pour the marinade over the quail.

• Place picked-over lentils in a heatproof bowl and add boiling water to cover them.

• Heat the olive oil in a large pot. Add the onion, thyme, garlic, celery and carrots and sauté until the onion has softened.

• Drain the lentils and add them to the pot. Add the stock and simmer until the lentils are tender but not mushy, about 13 to 15 minutes.

• Drain the lentil mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper.

• Grill the quail for 3 to 5 minutes per side.

• Serve the quail with the lentils and sweet potatoes.

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STUFF TO DO PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

FOOD page 48 • ART page 55

Miss waking up early on Saturdays and hitting the farmers’ market to pick up whatever is fresh for dinner that night? The St. Louis Community Farmers’ Market doesn’t let cold weather get in the way of farm-fresh food; the winter market showcases local produce, meats, eggs, cheeses, jams, breads and more on the second Saturday of each month. See page 48 for details.

January 2011

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BY BYRON KERMAN

FOOD

WINTER MARKET St. Louis Community Farmers’ Market Jan. 8 – 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., St. John’s Episcopal Church 314.375.6836 · sites.google.com/site/stlcfm/ Is it worth making the trip to a farmers’ market in January? Well, the popular St. Louis Community Farmers’ Market has spinach, lettuce and even figs grown in area greenhouses, along with meats, cheeses, jams, pickles, salsas, breads, chocolate, pancake and soup mixes, coffee, eggs, tea, flowers, goat milk soap, and more. The winter market is offered the second Saturday of the month from November through April.

There are anywhere from 15 to 23 vendors selling their wares. Know your farmer, know your food.

ONGOING Slow Money St. Louis’ First Meeting Jan. 12 – 7 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks · slowmoney.org There are many issues of social justice that center on food – who is paid to create what we eat? Are they being paid enough?

Is their work safe? Is the food safe? Will we be able to eat the same healthy foods years down the road from now? Are we all eating nutritiously? What can we do for those who aren’t? Slow Money is a new offshoot of the Slow Food movement, about putting our money where our mouth is. The group’s mission: “to build local and national networks and develop new financial products and services dedicated to investing in small-food enterprises and local food systems, connecting investors to their local economies, and building the nurture-capital industry.” (“Nurture capital” refers to “soil fertility, carrying capacity, a sense of place, the care of the commons, nonviolence, and cultural, ecological and economic health and diversity.”) Slow Money’s goal: a million Americans investing 1 percent of their assets in local-food systems within a decade. Come to the inaugural meeting of the St. Louis chapter of the group, spearheaded by Kelly Childs of Slow Food St. Louis.

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Around the World Wine Dinners Jan. 21 – 6:30 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden 314.577.0200 · mobot.org The Around the World Wine Dinners at the Missouri Botanical Garden don’t just feature cuisine and wine from far-flung reaches of the globe, they move around the garden itself, too. “Dining locations will be indoors or outdoors depending on time of year and weather, so we’re leaving that up to the last minute to decide,” said MoBot flack Karen Hill, “but we’ve got the redone Spink Pavilion, our Sassafras Café by candlelight, the Kemper Center patio, the Terrace Café, et cetera, as just a few places we can consider, weather-depending.” This month’s wine dinner focuses on the Piedmont region of Italy, and features a salad of arugula, poached figs, crispy pancetta and a white wine vinegar-and-oil dressing; agnolotti stuffed with braised beef and celery root in a tomato broth and sage sauce; risotto with roasted duck, black truffle and Castelmagno cheese (which is from Piedmont); and mascarpone cheesecake with almond crust and limoncello sauce. Catering St. Louis created the menu, and Bommarito Wines will be doing the pairings. Next up at Around the World Wine Dinners: Chile in February, and the Bordeaux region of France in March.

Call for reservations.

FIVE QUESTIONS FOR MICHAEL DEL PIETRO Owner of Sugo’s Spaghetteria, Babbo’s Spaghetteria, the Via Vino wine bar, and, come summer, Trattoria Spezie

FUNDRAISER The St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Jan. 28 to 30, Chase Park Plaza Hotel · Purchase all ticket options in advance from The Repertory Theatre Box Office 314.968.4925 · repstl.org/foodandwine Lidia Bastianich is serious about Italian food. The renowned chef and host of PBS’s Lidia’s Italy has a no-nonsense demeanor, a severe haircut and a knack for whipping up bellissimo Italian cuisine. Bastianich is the marquee guest at this year’s St. Louis Food & Wine Experience at the Chase Park Plaza, to benefit the Repertory Theatre of St. Louis. You can watch her cook at presentations on the mainstage, and meet her at a special Friday night private event featuring wines from her family winery and an hors d’oeuvres buffet of treats from her cookbooks. Other top-

You have a Del Pietro house salad at a number of your restaurants. It must be a kick to name a dish after yourself – it’s like naming your band Van Halen. Actually, my mom and dad started with that salad at the original Del Pietro’s in 1976 – so it’s working out well.

What’s the most frightening or bizarre thing you’ve ever seen happen in a kitchen? I’ve seen a lot of crazy things – I’ve been doing this for many moons. I’ve seen a fight break out. The craziest thing ever was when the power went out and we were cooking by candlelight on a Saturday night. We just used gas cooking. At the end of the night we just shook our heads and went home in silence. It was not a fun shift.

Isn’t the Italian restaurant scene in St. Louis amazing? I think it’s super-hot. St. Louis has some of the best Italian restaurants in the U.S., and I’ve been to a lot of cities. St. Louis is way up there.

Do you have an ultimate goal as a restaurateur? I’m living my big goal right now. I love my job and the restaurant business. I love what I do. Every eight months to a year, if I can pop out a new restaurant, I’m ecstatic.

You’re running a whole group of restaurants, with more on the way; what’s the secret to delegating authority? I haven’t figured it out yet, but if I do I will let you know.

– Byron Kerman

January 2011

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

STUFF TO DO:

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S T U FF TO D O: FO O D

BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE

ROSALITA’S CANTINA

1229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.2700

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

Slide into the crescent shaped booths at Rosalita’s Cantina to sip well-crafted Margaritas in a space whose reclaimed wood, artful ironwork and whimsical star lights beautifully sidestep the stereotypical.

shelf culinary guests include Eli Kirshtein, contestant on Top Chef: Las Vegas in 2009, chef Brian Hale of the Chase Park Plaza, and many more. The Food & Wine Experience floor offers about 100 vendor booths of food and wine sampling, including more than 700 wines. Options for the hardcore oenophiles include a VIP Reserve Room of rarer wines, and a Premier Tasting event with an auction on Friday night.

January 2011

THEATER Cooking With Elisa, presented by Upstream Theatre Jan. 7 to 23, Kranzberg Arts Center · 314.863.4999 upstreamtheater.org French cuisine isn’t all gastronomie and glory. It turns out that some French dishes, when explored in a certain way, reveal saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51

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some of the darker aspects of human nature.

That’s the crux of Cooking With Elisa, an award-winning Argentine drama by Lucía Laragione making its U.S. premiere with our own Upstream Theatre. Elisa is the apprentice to a certain chef Nicole. As they chop and boil ingredients together to prepare elaborate dishes, the sociopolitical realities of what’s happening just beyond the kitchen door become apparent. The play is written in the style of “an adult fairytale acknowledging the human propensity for violence,” explains director Bonnie Taylor.

Cooking With Elisa features Jane Paradise and Shanara Gabrielle, and was translated into English by Upstream impresario Philip Boehm.

CLASSES Two Chefs and a Menu Jan. 10 – 6 to 9 p.m., Kitchen Conservatory · 314.862.2665 kitchenconservatory.com It’s not a competition … or is it? The format of the new Two Chefs and a Menu demonstration class at Kitchen Conservatory takes a simple menu and lets two acclaimed chefs go to town with each course. Josh Galliano of Monarch and Steven Caravelli of Araka will prepare vegetable soup, salad, chicken with potatoes, green vegetables and a chocolate dessert in a side-by-side arrangement. The differences and similarities in their results should be fascinating – and delicious. Other inventive Kitchen Conservatory demonstration and hands-on classes in January focus on pressure cookers, cheesecakes, petit fours, mandolines, shellfish, savory pies, risotto, olive oils, tarts, Moroccan cuisine and fondant.

Chili, Garlic and Bacon Classes at Dierbergs School of Cooking Various dates and times – various Dierbergs locations 636.812.1336 · dierbergs.com Chili, garlic and bacon – sounds like the makings of a worthy comfort food, or possibly an industrial-strength hangoverkiller. In truth, each is the subject of a fun class at various Dierbergs School of Cooking locations this month. At the Chili Weekend class, students will prepare and enjoy beer Margaritas, steak-lovers’ chili, Baja chili with lime and avocado, sweet and smoky turkey chili, “best-ever cornbread muffins,” and salted chocolate-chip cookies. At the Better With Bacon class, the menu will include “Baconista caramel corn”; Italian January 2011

BLT pizza; Jagerschnitzel (chicken schnitzel with bacon, mushrooms and wine sauce); and cranberry-apple crisp with candied bacon crumbles. Finally, the Garlic – All My Favorites class will showcase baked crab with garlic sauce, 40-clove chicken, spicy garlic potato salad, garlic fries and doublechocolate-fudge raspberry pizza (which does not include garlic – we hope).

Cordials and Liqueurs Class Jan. 13 – 6:30 to 8 p.m., Rendezvous Café and Wine Bar 636.281.2233 · rendezvouscafeandwinebar.com Frank took a tentative sip of coffeeflavored brandy and set down his snifter.

That was fine, he thought. He’d already tried Frangelico, Benedictine, ouzo, Chambord, Midori, and some sort of Bulgarian liqueur distilled with chocolate, hazelnuts and honey. He had had enough.

Suddenly, he turned to slap the face of the man on the barstool next to him with an open palm. The stranger spat out a mouthful of Amaretto, leapt from his chair, and gawked at Frank.

“What was that for??” blurted the angered man.

“There’s only so many cordials a man can drink before he turns un-cordial,” said Frank.

Explore the exotic world of cordials and liqueurs at a class at the popular Rendezvous Café and Wine Bar in O’Fallon, Mo., where you’ll learn about and sample a variety of drinks in front of the tavern fire.

Just be nice.

Chocolate and Wine Pairing Class Jan. 20 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Bissinger’s Chocolate Lounge 314.615.2490 · bissingers.com Do not underestimate the elegance of the Bissinger’s Chocolate Lounge at Maryland Plaza. The leather chairs are comfy. The sleek coffee tables appear to be plucked from a layout in Metropolitan Home. The employees seem particularly eager to make your visit memorable. And then there is the chocolate – and on some nights, the wine, too. The monthly Chocolate and Wine Pairing Classes feature a Bissinger’s Chief Chocolatier, who guides guests through a series of courses. Start with four savories, move on to decadent confections, and finish with desserts. Each course is paired with a premium wine. Even for those insufferable wet blankets among us, coming in from the cold to an endorphin rush of chocolate and wine makes for a romantic and potent night. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 53

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STUFF TO DO:

BY BYRON KERMAN

ART

Catch The Parker Quartet at the Touhill Performing Arts Center this month.

EXHIBIT

FILM

Post-Gig

Chesterfield Galaxy 14 Cine Five Star Lounge

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE PARKER QUARTET

Jan. 20 to March 12, Gallery 210 at UM-St. Louis 314.516.5976 · umsl.edu/~gallery Let’s face it – sometimes the best thing about a rock show is the concert poster glued to the telephone pole outside. The music may or may not have stood up to the standard of the recorded album, but hep graphic design has a coolness that resonates even when the product being advertised is only so-so.

Which brings us to Postgig, a collection of modern music posters created by the likes of such sophisticated design houses as Modern Dog, Aesthetic Apparatus, Patent Pending, the Small Stakes, Seripop, Hammerpress, and the Decoder Ring. The artists on the ephemera include B.B. King, the Melvins, Interpol, Modest Mouse, Death Cab for Cutie, Sufjan Stevens, Mission of Burma, Sonic Youth, Neko Case, Feist, Wilco and gobs more. The colorful show, on view at UM-St. Louis’ swanky Gallery 210, was curated by noted designer Clifford Stoltze, the author of the concomitant book 1,000 MusiGraphics.

January 2011

Ongoing, Chesterfield Galaxy 14 Cine · 636.532.8141 wehrenberg.com Everyone has his or her own idea of luxury.

For some, it’s a nap in a hammock ended by a gentle breeze from the fans wielded by a pair of Japanese identical-twin underwear models. Is that wrong? Well, is it wrong to eat waiter-delivered artichoke-and-spinach Rangoon as you lounge in a heated leather recliner with no one in front of you to block your view of the movie screen? Say yes to luxury at Wehrenberg Theatres’ Five Star Lounge at the Chesterfield Galaxy 14 Cine.

This deluxe cinema features oversized leather recliners with controls for reclining, heating and summoning the wait staff. You can order the traditional popcorn, candy and soda, but you can also dine on toasted ravioli, that Rangoon mentioned above, chicken wraps, pizza, hamburgers, gelato, concretes, root beer floats and more. Enjoy beer, wine and mixed drinks, too, which should help James Cameron’s next offering go down a

little easier. The Five Star Lounge seats have views that are completely unobstructed by the people in front of you, and they’re big enough that there will be no fight over who gets the armrest. You can buy tickets to see films in the lounge any night of the week.

The Illusionist

Opens Jan. 28 – various times, Tivoli Theatre 314.995.6270 · landmarktheatres.com The new animated feature from French director Sylvain Chomet looks like charm incarnate. The Illusionist is nominally about a down-on-his-luck magician driven to eversmaller venues to perform his tricks, which may or may not come off as intended. (A willful rabbit does not help.) His latest gig, in a seaside pub in Scotland, does not look promising until he meets a certain young girl who gives him a new outlook. The film’s physical comedy comes courtesy of a script adapted from a screenplay by Jacques Tati, whose Mon Oncle became a classic of gentle slapstick in the ’50s. Chomet’s 2003 opus, The Triplets of Belleville, was a smash on the art-house cinema circuit, and critics are already drooling over his new one. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 55

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MUSIC St. Louis Low Brass Spectacular Gala Jan. 18 – 7:30 p.m., The Sheldon · 314.533.9900 stllbc.org If you are feeling sad and blue, you should think about learning how to play the tuba.

It is, after all, an instrument which creates music and comedy in equal parts. Enjoy the mournful honking of the tuba and the magic of other bottom-end instruments at the third annual St. Louis Low Brass Collective’s Spectacular Gala. Some of the area’s finest trombonists, euphonium players and tubists will elicit smiles and odd, rumbling sensations when they play jazz and classical music at the Sheldon.

Listen for tunes by Mahler, religious work, Brazilian music, and originals performed by members of the Saint Louis Symphony Orchestra and music profs from Webster University, UMSL and Washington University. This year’s special guest is oftrecorded Dixieland tubist Red Lehr, and a piece by Webster University’s Kim Portnoy, commissioned by the Low Brass Collective, will premiere.

Bloom Project

PHOTO BY WESLEY LAW

Jan. 22 – 7:30 p.m., Kranzberg Arts Center · 888.662.7851 newmusiccircle.org New Light, a tune by Bloom Project, sounds like the thoughts of a drunken bumblebee as he ruminates on a lifetime of bad choices while sitting on the toilet and crying. The toilet is very small. This is because he is a bumblebee. Chandelier, another number by the same act, sounds like a jazz band falling down a flight of stairs in slow motion.

When they (finally) reach the ground, the saxophonist lands on top of the pianist, who slams into the drummer, and soon they all start laughing in a tumbling coloratura of wild notes. If this sounds fanciful, it’s not, really – it’s just another concert sponsored

by New Music Circle. This month, the venerable society of avant garde musiclovers welcomes Bloom Project, i.e., pianist Thollem McDonas and saxophonist Rent Romus. Both men, who hail from the Bay Area, have ridiculously long resumes in jazz, experimental music, producing, scoring dance and film, live performance, recording, improvising, running record labels, and tweaking expectations. Speaking of tweaking, McDonas is not shy about opening up the piano and directly exciting the strings to elicit some crazy sounds.

January 2011

The Parker Quartet

BEFORE & AFTER

Jan. 28 – 8 p.m., Touhill Perfoming Arts Center 314.516.4949 · touhill.org

CHESTERFIELD GALAXY 14 CINE FIVE STAR LOUNGE

A night at a concert hall with a good string quartet working the catgut simply makes life worth living. The Parker Quartet, coming to UM-St. Louis’ Touhill Performing Arts Center, arrives with great expectations. These four young’uns originally met when studying at the New England Conservatory of Music.

They discovered a certain chemistry and commenced to issuing emotional renditions of quartets by Ravel, Bartok, Beethoven, Haydn, Schumann and Mendelssohn.

Their acclaimed album, a recording of notoriously challenging quartets by 20th century Hungarian composer György Ligeti, came out in 2009.

ARTS GALA The Wedding Party Jan. 22 – 8 p.m., Mad Art Gallery · 314.771.8230 madart.com There ain’t no party like a Mad Art party ’cause a Mad Art party don’t stop. Well technically, they stop at midnight, but metaphorically, they’re off the chain.

If you’ve attended any of the themed, creative Mad Art parties, such as Art Prom and the Halloween parties, you know it’s always a good time in the former police station-turned-art gallery and event space.

Mad Art celebrates its 10th anniversary with a kitschy tribute to the hundreds of weddings that have taken place at the facility. The Wedding Party welcomes costumed partygoers: “Come dressed as a bride, bridesmaid, groom, groomsman, officiant, drunk uncle or whatever role you would like to play,” said Mad Art empress Jane Tomich. “We’ll have costume contests for individuals and groups throughout the night, with categories like best bridezilla, hottest bridesmaid, best-dressed same-sex couple, best shotgun wedding party, best mail-order bride, best celebrity couple and more. Enjoy live music, dancing, wedding-cake face-stuffing, dollar dances with drag-queen brides and a cash bar with cheap beer. Experience the bachelor party, honeymoon suite and divorce court by visiting the Mad Art cellblock.” If you bring a vintage photo of yourself in your wedding dress – and you wear that same dress to the party – you get free admission for two.

BEFORE Before you settle into those comfy leather recliners at The Chesterfield Galaxy 14 Cine’s Five Star Lounge, stop by the café at Villa Farotto across the street for a quick nibble. Keep it light (maybe an order of the meaty Italian chef salad or a piping hot bowl of minestrone soup, pictured) in order to leave plenty of room for the nonstop nibbles that are sure to make it hard to focus on the flick.

17417 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.519.0048

AFTER Once the credits roll – and the toasted ravioli and root beer floats have been cleared – swing over to the International Tap House, just down the road, to critique the film (or just spout the best lines) over a nice cold brew.

With more than 500 beers available, you’re sure to find one (or a few) you like.

161 Long Road, Chesterfield, 636.537.8787

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Dreary January calls for a big pot of stew simmering on the stove, and after the meatheavy fare of the holidays, Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar’s Tuscan Seafood Stew is just the thing: Seafood keeps things light, onion and garlic lend robust flavor, and a spicy tomato broth adds heat to chilly winter days.

– Katie O’Connor

TUSCAN SEAFOOD STEW Courtesy of Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar’s Lisa Slay ½ cup olive oil ½ cup diced red onion 5 cloves garlic, chopped 1½ lbs. assorted fish such as halibut, salmon and mahi mahi, cut into pieces ½ lb. squid tubes, cut into ¼-inch rings 8 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 12 mussels ½ cup white wine 3 cups spicy tomato broth (recipe follows) 1 cup vegetable stock Kosher salt to taste Black pepper to taste Chopped parsley • In a large stock pot, heat the olive oil.

Add the red onion and garlic and sauté until softened.

• Add the fish, squid, shrimp and mussels and sauté briefly. Season with salt and pepper, then deglaze the pot with the wine.

• Add the spicy tomato broth and the vegetable stock, cover the pot and simmer until all of the seafood is cooked, about 5 to 7 minutes.

• To serve, ladle the stew into bowls and sprinkle each with parsley.

SPICY TOMATO BROTH

• In a large stock pot, heat the oil. Add the onions and tomatoes and sauté until the onions begin to brown.

• Add the garlic, salt and pepper and sauté for 2 minutes.

• Deglaze the pot with the red wine, then add the vegetable stock.

• Add the chile flakes and cayenne and simmer for 30 minutes.

• Allow the broth to cool, then purée it in batches in a blender or food processor.

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PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 large yellow onion, chopped ½ red onion, sliced 6 large tomatoes, diced 1 Tbsp. chopped garlic ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper ½ cup red wine 4 cups vegetable stock ½ tsp. red chile flakes ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

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