January 2013

ones to watch

the cheshire’s per fect pair ∙ lit tle countr y gent, big cit y concept ∙ winter’s simplest soup s t. l2013 o u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y January

sau c e m aga zi n e .co m

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janua r y 2 013 • VO LUM E 13, Issue 1 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

RELATIONS DIRECTOR OFFICE MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

ACCOUNT MANAGER INTERN

Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Julie Cohen Stacy Schultz Danny Steinberg, Rosa Heyman Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Wesley Law, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Kristi Schiffman, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz Erin Keplinger Sharon Arnot Erin Keplinger Angie Rosenberg Erin Estopare, Rachel Gaertner, Scott Hadfield, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Danny Steinberg

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2012 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other

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use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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january 2013

contents 9 A La Carte

17

Reviews 17 new and notable: Little Country Gentleman

by Michael Renner

21 Nightlife: The Shack Pubgrub

by Matt Berkley

22 Cook’s Books: Natasha Kwan’s Favorites

by Julie Cohen

Home cooking

9

25 What in the world: Finger Limes

by Ligaya Figueras

26 Vegetize it: Jambalaya Bam! Jambalaya Goes Veg

by Kellie Hynes

cover details

28 One ingredient, 3 ways: Champagne Bubbling Over

by Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras and stacy Schultz

30 The New Classics Trattoria Marcella’s Gnocchi de Patata Alla Romagnola

Last course 53 Stuff to do by byron Kerman

54 Five questions for: Andy Heaslet

by Byron Kerman

21 features 33 Ones to wAtch Food and drink pros with promise

BY Julie Cohen and ligaya figueras

Photos by Carmen Troesser food and drink pros with promise p. 33

the cheshire’s perfect pair p. 12 little country gent, big city concept p. 17 winter’s simplest soup p. 11

= recipe on this page

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his past year, I’ve watched an extremely dedicated group of employees challenge themselves to produce a magazine that informs, excites and inspires their readers. Month after month, the team at Sauce strived to strengthen the relationship that St. Louisans have with their local food scene. I am proud that we are able to produce work that makes people smile, and I am grateful to work alongside such committed colleagues.

While Sauce has kept a vigilant watch on the St. Louis food scene for more than a decade, over the last 12 months, eyes around the country have shifted to our city.

Restaurant openings, standout chefs, fivestar dishes, fabulous food trucks and artfully

crafted beers are just some of the themes that garnered national attention in 2012.

I know that 2013 will be another year to watch. And you can be certain that we at Sauce will be there: to eat it, write about it, photograph it – and celebrate it with all of you.

Cheers,

Allyson Mace, Publisher & Founder, Sauce Magazine

Photo by wesley law

The team at Sauce has extraordinary ability, but were it not for the amazing culinary talent in this city, this magazine could not exist. Few cities can boast a crew of such passionate men

and women inside its restaurants, bars and shops, and to witness their encouragement and support for one another is a testament to the strength of our community. As you’ll see in this month’s issue, we have new stars ready to emerge (Check out Ones to Watch, p. 33.), and as always, Sauce is ready to rally around this next generation as they find their place in our thriving culinary scene.

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MEATLESS MONDAYS | The endless lines at the gym. The leftover sweets from the holidays. The allure of a big, juicy cheeseburger over a tired plate of greens. Let’s face it; when it comes to keeping those healthy-living resolutions longer than a week, the odds are stacked against you. The best advice we have: Take it one day at a time. And what better way to start your week than with a healthy meal that you can have on the table faster than you can say “vegetarian”? Head to SauceMagazine. com/blog every Monday for a recipe for a meat-free meal that will help you and your family start every week off right.

3 THINGS | Who says all the fun of gift giving has to end just because the holidays did? Now that you’ve gotten the perfect present for everyone on your list, it’s time to treat yourself with the finer things in life. Since we here at Sauce are in the business of keeping you dining and drinking well, we’re happy to help you acquire the things needed to do just that. That’s why every Thursday at SauceMagazine.com/blog, we’ll reveal Three Things we’re currently obsessing over – and how to get your hands on them. From gadgets to gumbo, cakes to corkscrews, this is one gift guide you can’t afford to miss.

Photo by carmen troesser

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, January 11 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. for more from our January issue.

facebook.com/saucemag | twitter.com/ saucemag pinterest.com/saucemag

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EAT THIS

Set your annual weight-loss resolution for 2013? Allow us to help. The sweet potato falafel at LULU’S LOCAL EATERY will have you eating healthy without even realizing it. The falafel is fried, yes, but it’s loaded with sweet potato, which is jam-packed with fiber and nutrients, and studded with good-for-you greens. It gets wrapped in a pita and finished with a figure-friendly tzatziki sauce. Counting carbs? Switch out that pita for fresh greens. This is gonna be your

Photo by carmen troesser

year – or at least your afternoon.

Track down the LuLu’s Local Eatery food truck on Facebook and Twitter (@lulusfoodtruck) or at luluslocaleatery.com

January 2013

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Best Seat EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery

Evoke the joys of camping without all the hard work. The circular fire room at EdgeWild is the spot to warm up, grab drinks and gather ‘round a fire with friends.

Who wants to weather the chill of the great outdoors anyway?

[beer] No matter which styles of beer you like, everyone seems to have a small list of go-to labels. Depending on my mood – or what I’m eating – these beers seem to find their way into my glass on a regular basis.

– Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales

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Boulevard Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale This ale pours a sparkling yellow with sticky lacing and a fluffy head that dissipates to a light crown. It smells of honeydew, orange peel, dried pine needles and mint, while a lively carbonation level allows the mint, spicy baking herbs and clean bitterness to dance across the palate. This one finishes dry, with an American hop bitterness accentuated by the warming alcohol.

2nd Shift Art of Neurosis This bright amber orange IPA has a stone white head that settles nicely on top.

Mandarin oranges and pineapples, key limes, wild onions and a perfect malt biscuit body balance everything out. It finishes with a light to medium body that allows the hops to shine but keeps the alcohol in check.

Chimay Red Cap This murky, leathery brown Belgian beer boasts a crisp cinnamon head that explodes to fill your glass but then recedes to a thin cap. Fruitcake, maple syrup and brown sugar atop some apple pie fill a small area around the glass, though this beer is lighter on the palate than its aromas suggest. Green tea with molasses and some clove-laden bread pudding are cleaned up by effervescent, Champagne-like carbonation.

January 2013

photo by jonathan gayman

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery, 550 Chesterfield Center, Chesterfield, 636.532.0550, edgewildwinery.com

photo by carmen troesser

make this

Still stuffed from rich, holiday fare? Join the club. This month, we’re craving simple sustenance, and when we need quick comfort on a cold day, we turn to egg drop soup. Start by dissolving 1½ tablespoons of cornstarch in the same amount of water in a small bowl. In a separate bowl, beat 2 eggs, stir in 1 tablespoon of water and beat again. Next, bring to a boil 4 cups of chicken broth, 1 tablespoon of mirin, ¼ teaspoon each of white pepper, ground ginger and garlic powder, and salt to taste. Add the dissolved cornstarch to the soup, stirring well, to slightly thicken the soup. Turn off the heat. Slowly add the beaten eggs to the hot soup while stirring constantly with the other hand. The eggs will begin to cook and form silky threads.

Divide the soup equally among 4 bowls and garnish each serving with 1 tablespoon of diced green onions. Slurp away without remorse! – Ligaya Figueras

January 2013

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The Perfect Mix

Did you start dating at 202?

WF: We met there – dated, got married; it was a beautiful time.

LF: Well, I didn’t talk to him at first. He didn’t speak any English! He was like, “Hola lady.”

You learned English to woo her?

WF: Pretty much.

LF: He slipped me his number one day.

WF: I was that creepy guy.

What’s your best tactic for working together?

LF: We’re brutally honest without hurting each other’s feelings.

WF: We work really well together.

We knew that going in. We fell in love working in a kitchen. I look at Lisa as a business person. Outside, we’re married.

Here, we’re co-workers. I’m not like, “Hey sweetie, can you do this for me?”

Your kids must have the most sophisticated palates in all of day care and kindergarten.

LF: George [the 3-year-old] has a 100-percent salt palate. Every single morning he wants eggs and bacon. “Did you put salt on this?” he’ll say.

WF: Then, “Can I just have the salt? I’ll salt it myself.”

LF: But Wil [the 5-year-old] is about the cakes, cookies and candy. Every day, he asks me, “Are you gong to make some cupcakes today? Do you want to bring some home?”

LF: Food; it’s pretty much our life.

WF: It is our life.

The Restaurant, 7036 Clayton Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

We all know mixing business and pleasure can be a recipe for disaster, but for Wilfrin and Lisa FernandezCruz, there’s never been a difference between the two. They met while working at 202, a now-closed restaurant in New York’s Chelsea Market. Wil, having emigrated from the Dominican Republic, had climbed the restaurant ladder to sous chef, and Lisa was making pastries. After marriage, two babies and a job change, the pair has been reunited in the kitchen at The Cheshire. He’s the executive chef for the newly opened The Restaurant, its catering arm and The Market (coming soon). She’s executive pastry chef for all of The Cheshire’s eating establishments. And thankfully for St. Louis diners, their recipe for making it work tastes just right. – Julie Cohen

What was the final impetus to leave NYC? LF: It was always in the back of my head to bring the kids back. There are just so many more opportunities for them here. But one day, I had one of those days where your bag breaks on the subway, then you trip and fall and step into a huge puddle, and a man screams at you for no reason …

WF: And some guy is puking …

LF: Or pees on your shoe. And I’m like, am I in a movie? I called my sister crying, and the next day she sent me an email that said, “I found this ad on Craigslist and maybe you should apply; there’s a job for your husband at the same place.” We were here within three weeks of applying.

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Chicken salad sandwich, $8.50 Looking for an affordable lunch to tame your grumbling tummy and fill you with some STL pride? Turn to the Chicken Salad Sandwich at Local Harvest Grocery & Cafe’s new Kirkwood location. Chunks of pasture-raised chicken cooked to tasty perfection and crunchy celery and onions cling to creamy mayo scented with dill and tangy Dijon. It’s only fitting at this locavore’s pit stop that the meaty filling gets piled onto a Companion pretzel roll.

And that bag of Billy Goat chips that comes with the hefty sandwich? It’s the kicker that’ll have you doing a fist pump for local food.

Local Harvest Grocery & Cafe, 12309 Old Big Bend Road, Kirkwood, 314.966.6566, localharvestgrocery.com/ kirkwood

[wine]

Photo by kristi schiffman

Goldilocks and the Three Dolcettos Dolcetto has frequently been called the “Beaujolais of Italy,” which has bothered me for years, because it’s totally inaccurate and unfair to France’s Beaujolais. Here are three exciting and dramatically different views of this beautiful red grape.

– Glenn Bardgett, member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

January 2013

Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba, 2010, Piedmont, Italy At first sip, this wine seemed unusual for a Dolcetto, a typically easy and fruity grape. But what initially appeared to be “way too big” turned out to be a lengthy and powerful version of this shy variety. This large and voluptuous style was amazing for its intensity at around $20.

Palmina Dolcetto, 2010, Santa Barbara County, Calif. As a Santa Barbara Dolcetto virgin, my anticipation was a solid Missouri “Show Me!” After swirling and sniffing, the lusciously round and soft tannins were captivating. There was even a very vague sense of wood – unusual if a Dolcetto is from Italy, but who knows what an American Dolcetto should be? Different from its Old World cousins, this great wine was delicious $20 yumminess with a half-minute finish.

Pio Cesare Dolcetto d’Alba 2011, Piedmont, Italy Then Pio came to play.

While ordering multiple courses at Charlie Gitto’s in Chesterfield, my guess that this would be “just right” with pasta, salad, chicken and pizza was confirmed. I’m not claiming that this $25 red is the perfect wine for all food, but it was for one night.

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reviews

new and notable: little country gentleman p. 17 nightlife: the shack pubgrub p. 21 cook’s books: natasha kwan’s favorites p. 22

New and Notable: Little Country Gentleman

by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

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his review started well before Little Country Gentleman opened. But first, a recap: Mike Randolph owns The Good Pie, a Midtown Neopolitan pizza place, and Half & Half, a breakfast-and-lunch eatery in Clayton. At night, staff transformed Half & Half into Medianoche: a Mexican-inspired dinner-only restaurant. I thought the concept intriguing, if not a bit confounding.

I liked how Randolph’s experimentations challenged our preconceptions of Mexican food.

And I would have said as much had Randolph not shuttered Medianoche a few months later, mid-way through my review. Seems diners wanted tacos and burritos more than braised beef cheeks or crispy belly from a lamb butchered in-house. A few weeks later, Randolph opened Little Country Gentleman in the same spot. Still working Little Country with the two-in-one concept, this time, Gentleman, LCG focused on what Medianoche was 8135 Maryland becoming anyway: an oasis for Randolph’s Ave., Clayton, nose-to-tail, New American, molecular 314.725.0719, gastronomic approach to translating littlecountry Midwestern ingredients (more on this later) gentleman.com into innovative, boldly flavored dishes.

LCG takes the current progressive tasting menu trend a step further (for St. Louis, at least) by solely offering three prix fixe menus of three courses, six courses and a grand taster of about 12 courses, each available with wine pairings expertly selected by wine director Daniels Parseliti. Regardless of your option, the excitement begins with a complimentary half glass of sparkling Lambrusco – the real stuff, fizzy and dry from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region – and an amuse-bouche. Mine was goat cheese, supremed lime and chorizo pork powder topped with a bit of cilantro and packed on a spoon for one perfect bite of crunch, astringency and creaminess.

Butter-poached lobster January 2013

During my visits, the three-courser consisted of two options from which to choose. Ordering both is a good way for a couple to experience the Randolph way. Listen to your server – carefully – as the menu descriptions are mere hints for what are very arduous preparations.

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review new and notable: little country gentleman cake slathered in magic-shell syrup with a scoop of ice cream and roasted banana with black strap molasses and topped with puffed rice. Or, order nothing; you’re still going home with a complimentary cookie.

Veal sweetbreads From left: Mike Randolph, chef-owner; Dale Beauchamp, chef de cuisine

buttermilk, and fried crisp. Parseliti’s pairing of a German riesling, fresh but not too fruity, was spot on. The wine list, it should be noted, is decidedly Old World, meaning European and meant to be enjoyed with food.

Calling “Lobster” the soup course sounds so banal: Succulent lobster meat gets bathed in a creamy, foamy base of aerated vanilla and potato with a whisper of orange and tarragon, flavored with Thai dragon chile. Another second course included trout – pan-seared to a golden crispness yet still moist – and several clams served in their shells. A scattering of Brussels sprout leaves, more the idea of a vegetable than actual sustenance, accented the plate. As with the Vouvray poured with the soup, the acidic, mineral flintiness of the sauvignon blanc – a 2011 Sancerre – proved the proper foil for the fish and seafood.

But for a restaurant touting Midwestern

ingredients, I was surprised to see lobster on the menu at all, let alone learn that the trout was not sourced from Missouri, but rather from Idaho, although the restaurant also sources trout from Missouri. I could say the same about the lack of regional wines.

Pig and cow, however, did come from the heartland, and each makes up the thirdcourse options. On one long plate, the dish is simply labeled “Pig,” Randolph showcases nearly every aspect of the hog: beautifully medium-rare tenderloin cold-smoked with apple wood; crunchy, deep-fried skin (chicharrón or cracklings); unctuous sous vide belly; and a delicious croquette made from the meat of boiled head using cheeks, ears and tongue. It’s an involved process that takes more than two days to produce before it hits the fryer. A bit of braised coleslaw and a black pepper biscuit rounded out the plate. I found

the cracklings too thick, but the croquette had the concentrated savory, meaty flavor often described as umami: the fifth taste.

For me, that one pork croquette and the beef trio crystalized Randolph’s concept and supreme attention to detail. For the beef entree, beef cheeks are rendered meltingly tender after being brined for about two days, then spending nearly 20 hours in the immersion circulator and then finally seasoned and shredded. A slice of New York strip is grilled rare and juicy. Panroasted tongue is pickled and shredded.

Just a little of this meat and you’ll feel luxurious without feeling indulgent. Parsnip miso, a few roasted root vegetables and a bit of Maytag blue cheese provided good counterpoints to the three styles.

For dessert, there’s a well-stocked cheese cart and sweets, like flourless chocolate

Watching Randolph, chef de cuisine Dale Beauchamp and sous chef Chip Bates bending over the kitchen’s butcher block table, carefully attending to each dish and assembling it with all the precision and intensity of a surgical team, you realize why they call it the “culinary arts.” Despite the sophiscation of the food, there’s a casual vibe running throughout the restaurant. Bow-tied servers move about calmly and efficiently. Service is crisp, knowledgeable and attentive, if sometimes bordering on hovering. 1920s Tin Pan Alley jazz filters throughout the room, evoking those old black-and-white cartoons of dancing tomatoes. Even the restaurant’s name dates back to a mid-19th century breed of corn called Country Gentleman.

Some will grouse about the prices and expect big servings. Yes, bigger appetites may leave hungry, especially if they have the three-courser; I feared the same, but after the second course, I knew I’d be fine. Some may not pick up on LCG’s wit and humor; I confess sensing a bit of pretentiousness seeping through at times. Some won’t like eating on the gentleman’s terms and resent that “modifications are politely declined.”

(However he will accommodate allergies or dietary restrictions.)

But unless you’re part of the 1 percent, Little Country Gentleman is not a place you return to on a regular basis. It is a food experience: a place where you surrender all preconceptions, trust Randolph and his team, and embrace the unexpected. This is how cities gain reputations for great restaurants. Without Beehthoven pushing the envelope, there would be no Mahler; without Parker, no bebop. St. Louis needs chefs like Randolph to challenge us, to push us from good to great.

AT A GLANCE Where Little Country Gentleman, 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com

Don’t Miss Dishes Cow, any fish course

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Vibe Sophiscated yet casual, romantic atmosphere, a bit cheeky

Entree Prices Three-courses: $38 (add $30 for wine pairing). Six-courses: $68 (add $48 for wine pairing). Grand tasting menu: $98 ($80 for the wine pairing).

When Cocktail hour: Tues. to Fri. – 5 to 6 p.m.

Dinner: Tues. to Sat. – 6 to 10 p.m.

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review nightlife: The Shack Pubgrub

Nightlife: The Shack Pubgrub

by Matt berkley • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

of the older veteran drinkers actually depart.

With The Shack enforcing the 21-and-up rule, the college kids blend in seamlessly, creating a congenial The Shack Pubgrub vibe that plays along 3818 Laclede Ave., St. to a steady soundtrack Louis, 314.533.7000, of memorable and shackstl.com inoffensive 1990s music.

Though the focus at The Shack definitely shifts towards the food, the booze selection has hardly been overlooked.

Vodka and flavored shots predominate, but there’s also a surprising and much appreciated list of Bourbon Sippers to warm patrons up on wind-chilled nights. The staff is attractive, attentive and (overall) not unhandy with a cocktail shaker, but mixologists they are not.

Most of their specialty drinks – i.e. “the Purple Drank,” or “the Kool Aid” – are little more than flavored vodka splashed with soda and an energy drink. However, the beer selection is more than adequate (21 drafts), the drinks are stiff and what the place lacks in style it makes up for in the substance of some serious nightly specials catered to the thrifty drinker. (Can you say $4 pitchers of Natty Light?)

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hings have officially changed for the better at 3818 Laclede Ave. After a string of failed reincarnations, the space that formerly housed the infamous Laclede’s has been successfully overhauled – gutted, polished and recast for a new generation as The Shack. While it’s sad to think that Midtown’s house of late-night debauchery/douchebaggery has finally been wiped clean, I think we can all agree that it was time to pull the plug on the old format. The Shack proves an unpretentious antidote that holds its own, standing out from the shadow of sleazy days past.

The Shack is pretty much that: a simple, clean, working pub that has sandblasted and renovated everything you might remember about the former space. There’s a decidedly urban, industrial loft feel accented by the old tin ceiling and expansive bar (seemingly the only holdover) that runs nearly the entire January 2013

length of the establishment. The dance floor and DJ space are history, replaced with an expanded kitchen that serves up gorgeous Shack-wiches, overstuffed with thick meats, cheeses, slaw and fries. The seedy wooden booths have likewise been torn out and replaced by a handful of communal high-top tables smartly fashioned out of old doors. The restrooms, still in the same location, are so clean it’s scary. And the venue (which now has very much a sports bar feel) now comes fully furnished with a spattering of oversized flat screens TVs and a nice little patio, which will join the main area when the sliding overhead garage doors go up come spring. Oh, and for some reason there’s a canoe outside.

In the early evenings, an older dinner crowd populates the space (Even a few toddlers are in tow.). After 9 p.m., the atmosphere becomes decidedly younger as the regular string of SLU undergrads begins to pile in. Yet, few

And the food is, well, perfect for its setting. It’s no surprise that the owners – who are also the team behind wildly successful West County venues The Tavern Kitchen & Bar and The Corner Pub & Grill – have developed a menu that’s entirely approachable and fun.

Aside from the aforementioned Shackwich, patrons can also enjoy a selection of unpretentious pub grub with standouts like Baja fish tacos, pulled pork nachos, and massive portions of fresh-cut Boardwalk Fries smothered in imaginatively indulgent toppings like carne asada or green eggs and ham.

The Shack takes pleasure in catering to the casual beer drinkers who would rather lounge on a patio late in the afternoon than bump and grind to house club music until the wee hours. Only a few months old, it already has a strong following of college kids and young professionals primed for laid-back nights soaked in a few rounds of pitchers. Others may have come and gone, but The Shack is here to stay.

order it: The Shack Pubgrub

A trio of Baja fish tacos

Go all out and order up a pitcher of Black N’ Tan: half Guinness, half Bass.

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review Cook’s books: natasha kwan’s favorites

At the age of nine, Natasha Kwan declared herself a vegetarian. Now all grown up and having spent 10 years on the road for work, Kwan has seen what other cities have to offer for raw, vegetarian and vegan diners. Noticing a void in healthy veg eats in St. Louis, Kwan opened Frida’s – a vegetarian deli – in U. City. Here, Kwan advises those of us who recently took the healthy-eating pledge on how to keep fit by cooking well.

— Julie Cohen

The Encyclopedia of Healing Foods by Michael T. Murray, and Joseph and Lara Pizzorno “I believe in cooking for health and taste. Many of the juices and smoothie recipes that we use at the deli are based on the best nutritional value possible. As more people become aware of their bodies and how they feel after consuming certain foods, there are things that obviously make us feel much better.”

1000 Vegetarian Recipes From Around the World (no author) “While I have never, ever followed a recipe from this book, I get inspiration from it. I love flavor profiling and using alternative ingredients to what some of the recipes call for. For instance, I will swap out potato for a low-glycemic option like squash; you can always make healthy a bit healthier.”

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The World’s Healthiest Foods: Essential Guide for the Healthiest Way of Eating

by George Mateljan “The World’s Healthiest Foods should be in everyone’s home.

It has amazing information on buying and storing to recipes for each ingredient and how to incorporate the ingredients in your diet. It’s not vegetarian and has sections on meats and fish, but they’re all lean, which is very important for carnivores and pescetarians to know.”

What’s the one ingredient you can’t live without?

Onions “I start nearly every recipe – raw or cooked – with onions. I enjoy the variety of onions and how they change in flavor depending on how you cut and cook them.

Whether pungent, sweet or mild, the onion’s flavor profile is like no other and it’s good for balancing glucose, is chocked-full of fiber (Who knew?) and is known to lower cholesterol and high blood pressure.”

ONLINE EXCLUSIVE You can stand in line for the treadmill all you want, but until you give your go-to recipes a healthy makeover, those New Year’s resolutions aren’t gonna last past January 2. This month, we look at five new books that are sure to inspire you to slim down – and get cooking.

Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine. com, check out By the Book, where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection.

125 Best Gluten-Free Recipes by Donna Washburn and Heather Butt

Artisanal Gluten-Free Cooking by Kellie and Peter Bronski

The Complete Guide to Vegan Food Substitutions

by Celine Stern and Joni Marie Newman

The Gourmet Vegetarian Slow Cooker by Lynn Alley

The Sprouted Kitchen by Sara Forte

January 2013

photo by laura miller

3 Books For Keeping Your Resolution This Year

January 2013

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what in the world: finger limes p. 25 vegetize it: jambalaya p. 26 one ingredient, 3 ways: champagne p. 28 the new classics: gnocchi p. 30

what in the world are

finger limes?

Not for your guac, marg or tortilla soup, a finger lime is a most unconventional citrus fruit. Native to the eastern coastal rain forests of Australia, this elongated, gherkin-shaped micro-citrus comes in a rainbow of shades: from green to yellow to pink to rusty red. Inside are tiny juice spheres that look like caviar but burst with lemon-lime flavor.

Use it: Cut the lime in half and scoop out the pulp, then take advantage of its texture and citrus pop by using it as a garnish for seafood and fish; as an accent for sushi and ceviche; as faux roe for oysters, whether atop a half shell or an oyster shooter.

Find it: Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com – Ligaya Figueras

Oysters on the Half Shell with Finger Lime “Roe” photo by greg rannells

Courtesy of Harvest’s Nick Miller 8 Servings

Half of a yellow bell pepper, 1 ∕8-inch dice Half of a poblano pepper, 1∕8inch dice Half of a red onion, 1∕8-inch dice 1 Tbsp. freshly chopped parsley 1 Tbsp. freshly chopped cilantro Juice of half of a lime 24 oysters (preferably from the Pacific Northwest) 9 whole finger limes

• In a medium-sized bowl, combine the peppers, onions, parsley and cilantro.

Stir in the lime juice and allow to marinate. (The Mignonette can be prepared up to 2 hours prior to serving.)

• Prepare the oysters: Clean the oysters in cold water using a brush. Shuck the oysters and place them in a large serving bowl filled with crushed ice.

• To serve, garnish each oyster with ½ teaspoon of the Mignonette.

• Cut the finger limes in half or thirds, depending on the size. Gently squeeze the finger limes from the back, forcing the juice-filled cells, or “roe,” out and atop the oysters.

• Serve with cocktail forks.

Half of a red bell pepper, 1∕8inch dice January 2013

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home cooking Vegetize it: jambalaya

Bam! Jambalaya Goes Veg

BY Kellie hynes • Photo by Kristi Schiffman

recipe, you can freeze the extra in useful 8-ounce portions.

Second, I added a cup of dark beer. Not only is it an excuse to drink while you cook, but dark beer gives vegetarian jambalaya the hearty umami taste normally associated with meat.

Which brings me to my third tip for jambalaya awesomeness: Use Match meat. I know, I know, I swore I would never use meat substitutes. But I also swore I would never wear comfortable shoes, and look where I am now (pampering my feet, that’s where).

At some point you have to put on the granny panties and admit that there’s a time and a place for everything, including soy sausage.

The Match Italian sausage is no andouille, but it comes decently close. And I’m going to eat my words, right after I saute the contents of my crisper.

• Place the mushrooms in a large bowl and cover them with the boiling water. Set aside.

• Heat the oil in a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Add the chopped vegetables and saute them, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are very brown. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

• Add the mushrooms and their soaking water along with the thyme, parsley, bay leaves, fleur de sel and cold water.

Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour.

• Strain, reserving the broth and discarding the rest.

This broth will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.

Everything-in-theCrisper Jambalaya 8 to 10 Servings

Vegetable Stock 4 cups

t’s the crisper’s fault. I want to eat healthy, veggie-filled meals. But contrary to its name, my refrigerator drawer only offers up squishy greens. I mean, they’re probably safe, but they might kill me, and who wants that drama on a Sunday night?

I

can of veggie broth, serve over rice.

Bam! I’ve channeled my innerEmeril and cleaned out the fridge.

Imagine my relief to discover Cajun cuisine – an entire genre dedicated to transforming the inedible (crocodile, crawfish, okra) into dinner. And it’s effortless.

My slacker jambalaya recipe goes something like this: Saute all the wilted vegetables I can find, add a

First, I made homemade vegetable broth. Do NOT roll your eyes.

Homemade broth is a billion times tastier than the canned stuff.

If you can chop vegetables into small pieces to better extract the yumminess, you can make your own broth. And if you double the

If Slacker Jambalaya is good, what would Over-Achieving Jambalaya taste like? I decided to find out.

Spoiler alert: It’s pretty amazing.

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1 large onion, skin removed 2 celery stalks, with leaves 1 large carrot, peeled 1 large parsnip, peeled 1 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms 4 cups boiling water 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. freshly minced garlic 6 sprigs fresh thyme 6 sprigs fresh parsley 2 fresh bay leaves ½ tsp. fleur de sel 4 cups cold water • Chop the onion, celery, carrot and parsnip into uniform ¼- to ½-inch pieces. Set aside.

1 large onion, skin removed 2 large carrots, peeled 2 celery stalks 1 red bell pepper 1 orange bell pepper ¼ lb. okra 2 zucchini 5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 lb. Match Italian Sausage 1½ cups long-grain white rice, uncooked 2 tsp. freshly minced garlic 1 cup dark beer, such as Guinness 1 6-oz. can tomato paste 3 cups homemade Vegetable Stock (recipe at left) 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, undrained 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh parsley 2 fresh bay leaves

½ tsp. Creole seasoning, plus more to taste ½ tsp. salt, plus more to taste ½ tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste Hot pepper sauce for serving • Chop the vegetables into bitesized pieces. Set aside.

• Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a medium skillet set over medium heat. Add the Match Sausage and cook until it browns and crumbles, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

• Heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat in a large Dutch oven with a tightfitting lid. Add the chopped vegetables and saute until soft, about 10 minutes. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon.

• Pour the remaining tablespoon of oil into the Dutch oven. Add the uncooked rice and stir until the oil coats the rice. Let the rice toast for 2 to 3 minutes.

• Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

• Add the beer, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the Dutch oven with a wooden spoon.

• Add the tomato paste, stirring until well incorporated.

• Add the sauteed vegetables, Vegetable Stock, diced tomatoes and their juice, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, Creole seasoning, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low.

• Add the sausage, cover and let simmer for 20 minutes, or until the rice is cooked, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from burning on the bottom.

• Adjust the seasoning to taste.

• Remove the bay leaves and sprigs of thyme and parsley.

• Serve immediately with hot sauce on the side.

January 2013

January 2013

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home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: champagne

Bubbling Over

By Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras and Stacy Schultz

T

hat pulsing headache isn’t the only reminder of the endless clinking and drinking of New Year’s Eve. There’s also that half-full bottle of bubbly on the counter. And since there’s no way that cork’s fitting back in (We promise, stop trying.), it’s time to make that liquid hangover reminder your kitchen’s new workhorse. Whether your bottle o’ bubbly cost you a Lincoln or a Franklin, here are three recipes that will make it so you never waste another drop.

1. Scallops In a small saucepan, bring ¾ cup of Champagne to a boil. Turn the burner down to low, add a squeeze of lemon juice and place 8 large bay scallops in the pan. Cook for 3 minutes, or until the scallops are mostly opaque with slightly translucent centers. Serve immediately.

2. French onion soup Thinly slice 2 large yellow onions.

In a large saucepan, saute the onions in 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat until caramelized, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add to the saucepan: 2 cups of dry Champagne, 2 cups of beef broth and 1 bay leaf. Bring to a gentle boil. Cover the pan and let simmer for 20 minutes. Taste, adding salt and pepper if necessary.

Remove the bay leaf. Place 1 thick slice of French bread in the bottoms of each of 4 ovenproof soup bowls. Ladle equal portions of the onion soup into each bowl. Top each portion with 1½ ounces of thinly sliced Camembert or Gruyere cheese. Broil until the cheese melts and begins to blister and bubble, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

3. Champagne vinegar Pour ¼ cup of Champagne into a wide-mouthed jar. Let the jar sit at room temperature for 2 weeks, at which point it will become Champagne vinegar. Use the vinegar for a vinaigrette to pour over salads, in a Mignonette to top oysters, or add a splash to tomato sauce or mayonnaise.

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the new classics: gnocchi

Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you’d do just about anything to make at home?

Send us an email at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe and make it one of your New Classics.

Gnocchi de Patata Alla Romagnola Courtesy of Trattoria Marcella’s Steve Komorek 6 Servings For the sauce: 4 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cleaned of excess fat and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup all-purpose flour Extra-virgin olive oil 1 yellow onion, diced 2 large carrots, diced 2 celery stalks, diced 1 Tbsp. freshly minced garlic 2 lbs. cremini mushrooms, quartered 1 cup red wine 2 28-oz. cans plum tomatoes, crushed 5 cups chicken broth For the gnocchi: 2 lbs. russet potatoes, scrubbed ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed ¼ cup egg (1 to 2 large eggs), lightly beaten Kosher salt to taste Pecorino cheese, grated

Trattoria Marcella, 3600 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.352.7706, trattoriamarcella.com

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• Season the pork with salt and pepper. Dredge it in flour and shake off the excess.

• Coat a large saucepot with olive oil. Working in batches, brown the pork on all sides and transfer to a plate.

• Add the onions, carrots and celery to the pot and saute until tender. Add the garlic and mushrooms, and saute until the mushrooms are soft. Add the red wine and reduce the heat.

• Add the tomatoes, chicken broth and browned pork to the pot. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

Cover and let simmer for 1 hour, or until the pork is fork-tender. Season to taste and set the sauce aside.

• To make the gnocchi: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until they’re forktender, about 45 minutes.

Remove the potatoes from the pot and peel while they’re still hot.

• Use a ricer to shred the potatoes, or use a towel to shave them over the large holes of a box grater.

• Dust a clean workspace with flour. Create a mound with the potatoes and season lightly with salt.

Create a well in the middle of the mound.

• Inside the well, place the beaten egg and ¾ cup of flour. Using your hands, slowly and gently fold the potato into the flour and egg. Once the mixture is well-blended, gently knead the dough. Dust more flour on top as you knead if the dough feels sticky. The dough is ready when it’s slightly moist but firm.

• Divide the dough into 8 equal sections, and roll each section into a strand the width of your index finger. Gently cut each strand into pieces slightly less than 1-inch long. To texture the gnocchi, roll it over a fork and press down gently.

• Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop no more than 2 handfuls of gnocchi into the boiling water at a time.

The gnocchi will float to the top when they’re finished.

Remove from heat. Once all of the gnocchi have been removed, toss them in the sauce* and top with grated pecorino cheese. * You will likely have sauce leftover, as this recipe yields 6 quarts of sauce. It will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for 1 week.

January 2013

Photo by jonathan gayman

home cooking

January 2013

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January 2013

food and drink pros with promise by julie cohen and ligaya figueras photos by carmen troesser

Every year, we look high and low for the culinary talent who are about to explode onto the local food scene. This year, we found a poissonier with precision, mixologists with mad skills, chefs who hold nothing back and a savory whiz who’s showing his sweet side. They’re young, inspired and just getting started, but don’t underestimate them. The Ones to Watch class of 2013 is going places.

January 2013

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Why Watch Her: She has a spirit you can’t find in a cocktail book.

Age: 27

Jayne Pellegrino had only eight months’ experience stirring and shaking drinks before accepting a bartending job at Blood & Sand when it opened in September 2011.

Why hire a novice for a membersonly restaurant whose very existence is built around well-crafted cocktails?

“We can teach you how to make a good drink,” replied co-owner Adam Frager. “But you can’t teach passion,

a desire to learn or the natural desire to genuinely serve another person.”

What makes Pellegrino a wonder girl after less than two years behind the stick?

She can improvise. No simple syrup one night? No sweat. Pellegrino grabs house-made fennel syrup, concocts a punch around it and watches the contents disappear.

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She has mad skills. Blood & Sand coowner TJ Vytlacil would pit her against the top bartenders – in the country.

bartender at Blood & Sand. But he’s come around: “She’s my favorite person to work with to this day.”

Don’t let those tats fool you.

Commend her on a drink. She just might cry.

No Rain: This Pellegrino original is one of the most elegant gin cocktails we’ve encountered in ages.

She has quite the customer following, even though Vytlacil, Frager and Ramsey have been around the block far longer.

Blood & Sand, 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com

She wins you over. “I disliked working with her at first,” said Lucas Ramsey, Pellegrino’s fellow

She’s a sponge for learning – when she’s not sponging down the bar.

January 2013

No Rain Courtesy of Blood & Sand’s Jayne Pellegrino 1 Serving 2 oz. Hendricks gin ½ oz. agave nectar ½ oz. velvet falernum ¼ oz. fresh grapefruit juice ¾ oz. fresh lime juice 3 drops Bittermens Orange Cream Citrate* Rose Champagne (or brut Champagne) Grapefruit twist • Add the first 6 ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously for 10 seconds.

• Strain into a Champagne flute.

• Top with a splash of Champagne and garnish with a grapefruit twist. * Available at Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

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{ } salmon with cauliflower steak and brown butter sauce find thu rein oo’s recipe on page 51

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January 2013

Why watch him: He can cook any type of fish while naming every U.S. Senator. Age: 24 Five years ago, Thu Rein Oo walked into the kitchen of The Crossing. The Burmese refugee, who spent his teens in a Malaysian refugee camp, had just arrived in St. Louis and was looking for work. Jim Fiala, chefowner of the Clayton restaurant, tells us why Oo, now his beloved poissonier, has been destroying it ever since.

I first hired Thu Rein as a dishwasher for The Crossing. The first night, I had a busboy with me who’d been with me for 10 years, and he looks at me and I look at him, and we look at Thu and we both say, ‘Yep, he’s got it.’ He had such a great work ethic – hardly knew any English – but he wanted to please everybody.

He had an innate sense of urgency.

He started as dishwasher, but then he would be totally caught up on dishes and ask what he could do next. So we said, ‘Here’s a knife, do this.’ He started in salads, very basic stuff, but he was a quick learner. Everything he did, he did with extreme pride. He never made the same mistake twice.

He’s currently working on becoming a U.S. citizen. He knows all the U.S. history. It’s just the cutest thing you’ve ever seen. During election time, he would be banging out states and capitals. We would ask him who different states’ senators were, and he knew them all.

Thu has worked at all four of my restaurants. At The Crossing, he cooks all the fish, a few of the apps; he does a little bit of meat. I kid you not, he could eat fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day of the year and never complain.

He’s just good, creative too. He knows what I want and what we need at the restaurant. I can see him someday opening the Burmese version of Mai Lee. He’s pretty much capable of doing anything.

The Crossing, 7823 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.7375, fialafood.com/the-crossing

January 2013

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Why Watch Him: He became an executive chef faster than he could get his culinary-inspired sleeve tats filled in. Age: 29

It’s hard to believe that just two years ago, Bradley Hoffmannn, now the executive chef at Salt, took his first job in a kitchen as a line cook at The Scottish Arms.

But it’s even harder to think that, two years before that, he owned a clothing shop in Tampa, Fla. The boutique was a new venture for the city – doubling as an art gallery, music venue and tattoo shop.

But after two years in a crashed economy, Hoffmannn knew it

was time to “give up the ghost” and move back to his native St. Louis. He’d always been drawn to the hands-on nature of food, and he missed that connection while working in retail. So he enrolled in culinary school.

Upon graduation from L’Ecole Culinaire, Hoffmann joined the line at The Scottish Arms. There, he immersed himself in technique, even attacking the complex art of charcuterie. “I loved terrines in

38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

any form,” Hoffmann said. “This wonderful combining of this exact chemistry and organization of baking with regard to ratios is really sexy – but also being able to be totally creative with it and toss that out to the wind.” Last year, he moved to the line at Salt and, in 12 short months, he flew up the ladder at the fine dining restaurant from line cook to sous chef to chef de cuisine to executive chef. “Now it’s pretty much anything I can get my hands on. It’s from my farmer

to my stove to the table, and I’m touching all of it.”

While Hoffmann’s clothing choices are mostly dominated by chef whites these days, he sees the worlds of fashion and food becoming intertwined. “As far as dining out,” he explained, “where you’re eating has become as fashionable as what you’re wearing.”

Tattooed across Hoffmann’s knuckles are the words: LAST

CALL. It refers to his favorite line from a song – “last call, kill it” – and the creed he chooses to live by.

Down the road, Hoffmann sees himself moving to a farm or maybe teaching. But for now, he’s exactly where he wants to be. “Every day I come in, I work my ass off and I love every minute of it.” And trust us, he’s killing it.

Salt, 4356 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.5787, enjoysalt.com

January 2013

{

}

vegetable terrine find bradley hoffmann’s recipe on page 50

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Why to Watch Him: He dove into Farmhaus’ nose-to-tail philosophy head first.

Age: 33 Andrew Jennrich’s wife is convinced that if there was a swear jar at their house, it’d fast become their 401(k), but we figured we’d risk it. Here, Farmhaus’ chef de cuisine tells us how he got where he is today.

When moving to St. Louis [my wife’s hometown], I was pretty adamant with my wife. I always tease her, ‘You’re so lucky you’re not from Omaha, Nebraska.’ There was no way I was moving somewhere without a scene. But I’m telling you, as still the fresh pair of eyes in this city, there’s some badass shit going on.

I had never met Chef [Kevin Willman], but based on what I had read and heard, I knew his ideology and his kitchen ethics married so well with what I believe in: local products, ingredients, economy, sustainability and using everything.

Chef is vigilant that nothing gets thrown in the trash. Chef’s mantra is everything matters, and I love that. So, I basically sent him a blind email: Here’s my resume; I really believe in what you’re doing. I have no idea if you’re hiring, but I would love to be a part in some capacity.

I started in December [2011] and there was this New Year’s menu that Chef had put together, and I remember just how intense it was that week, trying to see it come to fruition. I had tasted all the dishes on the menu, but this was all off-menu stuff that had been brewing in his brain. To taste those flavors and see that food, it really got me so pumped. I knew I had made the right decision to be at this restaurant, and I knew this is who I wanted to be doing it with.

We did a nose-to-tail dinner back in August.

Chef told me to run with this thing, and I had the menu put together that day. It’s something all kinds of young chefs dream about doing. But what’s cool is that we [at Farmhaus] really get to fulfill that nose-totail dream all the time. Obviously it’s been working out, and it’s been awesome.

Farmhaus, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

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{

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salad of smoked chicken hearts find andrew jennrich’s recipe on page 50

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the hound dog

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find keyan still’s recipe on page 51

January 2013

Why watch him: He pays attention like no bartender you’ve met before. Age: 28 Keyan Still is a mere three years into his bartending career, yet his resume already reads strong: He’s not only shaken drinks at Pi, he developed the cocktail menu for the pizzeria’s downtown location and for Cafe Natasha’s. Now, as bar manager at Hendricks BBQ, he’s making a mark on St. Charles’ drink scene. Wherever he’s worked, he’s brought with him passion and professionalism – and left behind an indelible impression on staff and patrons alike. But don’t take our word for it.

From the moment I started training Keyan, he constantly displayed an enthusiasm to learn and grow. Every shift we worked together, it was evident that he had spent his free time learning the craft.

– Adam Frager, co-owner, Blood & Sand Constantly playing with spirits and increasing his knowledge, Keyan filled our back bar with books of recipes and traditions and would create cocktails to taste and critique daily.

My favorite thing about his program at Hendricks is the Old Fashioned on tap. He was able to batch one of the best-tasting Old Fashioneds I have ever had.

– James Menousek, barman, Pi - Central West End He takes the time to listen to each customer as if they were his only customer. I made a pumpkin stew with Persian spices as a special January 2013

request for a customer, but the customer was so intrigued by Keyan that he challenged him to make a drink that would complement the dish.

[Keyan] spent a week gathering spices and experimenting without relent until he perfected the cocktail.

– Hamishe Bahrami, chefowner, Cafe Natasha’s Kabob International When he first took the job, he knew he was in for a potential hurdle trying to get cocktails to sell in that area of Main Street.

But the training program he implemented and enthusiasm he brought to the staff is absolutely stellar. What we thought would be the top sellers (domestic beers and beer in general) didn’t happen.

The local brews he put on tap and the cocktail list has been selling way more than what we had anticipated.

— Matt Seiter, bar manager, Sanctuaria (sister restaurant to Hendricks BBQ) What I like about what Keyan is doing is that he’s not trying to go over the heads of his customers. By doing classic cocktails on tap, he has created a consistent product that the guest can come back and get any time, no matter who is behind that bar.

— Justin Cardwell, bar manager, BC’s Kitchen Hendricks BBQ, 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.724.8600, hendricksbbq.com

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Why Watch Him: He’s developing a grown-up Taste.

Age: 32

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January 2013

When Matthew Daughaday graduated from California Culinary Academy in San Francisco in 2008, his next step was to apply for an externship: unpaid, work experience in a professional kitchen. In his hometown of St. Louis, “people were talking about food way more” than before.

Twenty minutes after his interview with Gerard Craft, chef-owner of Niche, the celeb chef called Daughaday to offer him the post at his flagship restaurant. What’s Daughaday done since then that people are now talking about him way more than before? Time – and food – tell his story.

July 2008 Daughaday begins his externship at Niche. “One of my initial duties was making family meal for everybody every day. So as everybody’s prepping, I’m running around trying to throw pizzas in the oven.”

(a creamy salt cod dish) gets a thumbs-up when he tests it out at Taste, Craft’s cocktail bar. “It was an easy sell.”

October 2011 Newly appointed chef de cuisine at Taste, Daughaday conceives a lamb sugo plate: “That was the first dish that I drew inspiration from somewhere else besides Niche, but still fit to the concept that was Taste. [I was] not trying to recreate a Niche dish.”

culinary quest at Taste: “to take a homey dish and refine it.” He doesn’t know whether he’s CDC or exec chef, but he knows when he’s hit the mark. “A foodie person told me that the cornbread was probably the best plate of food they’ve eaten in St. Louis. Really?

Cornbread? That’s exactly what we’re going for: Taking something that you’ve had a bunch of times as a kid and making it the best that you’ve had.”

Future quest Will Daughaday invent a dessert as wildly popular as the Pigwich, a bacon-buttercream-filled, pig-shaped cookie conceived

by Craft and now retired from Taste’s menu? “I have yet to come up with anything that rivals it.” While he’s chewing it over, the rest of us can chomp on the churros he just added to the menu.

Taste, 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com

Winter 2010 Having climbed the ladder from the fish station to sous chef, Daughaday experiences a moment of pride: His “really, really simple” brandade January 2013

September 2012 When Daughaday puts bacon fat-fried cornbread on the menu, he reaches a new high on the low-brow scale that defines the saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45

{

bacon fat-fried cornbread

}

matthew daughaday’s recipe at right

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January 2013

Bacon Fat-Fried Cornbread Courtesy of Taste’s Matthew Daughaday 12 Servings or 24 Slices 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2½ cups cornmeal 2½ tsp. salt 2½ Tbsp. baking powder 2 eggs 2½ cups whole milk ¾ cup oil 1½ cups sugar 3 to 4 Tbsp. butter 3 to 4 Tbsp. rendered bacon fat Whipped Honey-Thyme Butter (recipe follows) Honey for serving • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• In a large bowl, mix together the flour, cornmeal, salt and baking powder. Set aside.

• In a separate container, whisk together the eggs, milk, oil and sugar.

• Whisk the wet ingredients into the flour-and-cornmeal mixture until just combined.

• Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking tray with non-stick spray. Pour the cornbread mixture into the tray, making sure it doesn’t fill more than ²∕³ of the way up the tray. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the tray.

• Once cool, cut the cornbread into 3-by-1-inch rectangles.

• Right before serving, melt 1 tablespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of bacon fat in a hot, large saute pan or castiron skillet. Add as much cornbread as will fit

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comfortably in the pan, approximately 6 to 8 rectangles, and fry until golden brown on one of the cut sides. Flip, and fry until golden brown on the other cut side. Remove to a serving platter. (For individual portions, place 2 rectangles on a plate.)

Repeat with the remaining cornbread, melting 1 tablespoon each of butter and bacon fat with each batch.

• Slather the Whipped Honey-Thyme Butter atop the cornbread and give it time to melt, about 30 seconds (longer if the butter is cold).

• Serve with a side of honey.

Whipped HoneyThyme Butter 1 lb. butter, softened 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. freshly chopped thyme • Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip for approximately 1 minute, or just until all of the ingredients are fully combined and the butter has slightly lightened in texture.

• Once the butter is whipped, keep it at room temperature until you’re ready to serve the cornbread. If you make the butter in advance, scrape it into a container with a tight-fitting lid and place it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to 1 week.

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Why Watch Him: He switched from hot line to pastry. Now he’s on fire.

Age: 30

They say you can’t really understand another person’s experience until you’ve walked a mile in his shoes. Who better to help us understand the sweet job that Bob Zugmaier has done since taking over as pastry chef at Sidney Street Cafe in September 2011 than someone who’s been there before? Enter translator Christy Augustin, former pastry chef at Sidney Street and current owner of Pint Size Bakery.

pants. This, it’s pretty obvious when something was done wrong.

There are a lot of rules in pastry. You can break them as long as you know how.

Once you learn what can be changed and what can’t be and how much of which … it’s just, there’s so many different rules.

Augustin: Why did you make that leap into pastry?

Zugmaier: I wanted to have a creative outlet.

I know that you pretty much got to do your own thing as long as [chef-owner] Kevin [Nashan] approved it. That was a big perk for me. I wanted to do my own thing.

I think that’s something Kevin is doing a lot as well, with sous vide being used so much in the kitchen. Or the CVap. CVap is like an oven that cooks as low as 90 degrees for an infinite amount of time. It introduces moisture or dry heat, whatever you want to do. It’s like sous vide on steroids. … I stay away from it. It’s too expensive. I don’t want to break it.

What about pastry allows you to be more creative?

It’s just a whole different set of rules. Hot cooking is kind of flying by the seat of your

And using the little thing that bearnaise is made in now?

The Thermomix. That thing is amazing. I definitely use that.

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So you’re incorporating savory flavors and some savory techniques by using tools that a lot of pastry chefs don’t have access to.

I know those techniques more than I do classic French pastry techniques, so that was an easy bridge for me.

When I see the Thermomix and CVap, I don’t know what to do with them.

I’m working on one right now that’s like the texture of a baked custard but it’s cream, there’s no eggs and it uses pectin. The Snickers Bar is the most popular dessert. It’s chocolate ganache put through a whipped cream charger so it’s foamy. And it’s frozen so it looks like cake.

Then it has peanuts, dulce de leche, chocolate mousse – there’s like 10 components.

What do you consider the key elements to a great dessert?

Texture. It’s hard to find something different for every dessert that is crispy without doing the same thing over and over. There’s

an overabundance of creamy, so I look for something new that’s crispy and sometimes savory or salty.

What other elements do you like to incorporate? Is there some go-to flavor?

Just something different. The apple dessert I have right now has foie gras ice cream on it. You see foie gras savory preparation with apples all over it. Why can’t it be a dessert?

How did it come about that you got to represent Sidney Street at the James Beard dinner?

I have no idea. I lost so much sleep over it.

I’m like, do I really want to embarrass myself in front of some of the best chefs in the country? Everything worked out. We worked at that dessert for a good month and a half.

Sidney Street Cafe, 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafe.com

January 2013

{ } caramelized apples with foie gras ice cream and spiced walnuts find bob zugmaier’s recipe on page 50

January 2013

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Salad of Smoked Chicken Hearts Courtesy of Farmhaus’ Andrew Jennrich

Vegetable Terrine Courtesy of Salt’s Bradley Hoffman 12 Servings 2 eggs 2 cups heavy cream Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 1 large potato, shaved 1∕16-inch thick 1 carrot, cut into ¼-inch planks 1 parsnip, cut into ¼-inch planks 4 asparagus spears, trimmed ½ head purple cauliflower, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch thick pieces 1 cup Panko breadcrumbs 1 cup Parmesan cheese Special Equipment: 1 terrine mold* • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Using a whisk, whip the eggs and cream together to make a custard base. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

• Grease a terrene mold with nonstick spray and line it with the shaved potato, reserving 3 potato slices to top the terrene.

• Place a single layer of each vegetable in the mold, sprinkling breadcrumbs and Parmesan between each layer, until the mold is full. Pour in the custard until it reaches the top layer of the vegetables.

• Place the remaining 3 strips of potato on top and fold any overhanging slices over the top. Press down to push the custard into the crevasses.

• Wrap the entire mold in aluminum foil and bake for 90 minutes.

• Allow to cool completely. Run a hot knife around the edge of the mold.

Invert the terrine onto a plate and re-invert onto a serving dish. Cut into 1-inch slices with a heated sharp knife.

• Serve immediately, or wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Reheat to room temperature when ready to use. * Available at Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

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2 Servings 12 Smoked Chicken Hearts (recipe follows) Olive oil 8 oz. arugula ¹∕³ cup Soy and Balsamic Vinaigrette (recipe follows) ½ cup Pickled Fennel and Kohlrabi (recipe follows) ½ cup blueberries ¼ cup toasted almonds • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

• Toss the Smoked Chicken Hearts with olive oil and lay them out on a lined baking sheet. Place in the oven to warm through while you assemble the salad.

• Toss the arugula with the Soy and Balsamic Vinaigrette and divide between 2 salad plates.

• Top each salad with an equal amount of Pickled Fennel and Kohlrabi, blueberries and almonds.

• Remove the hearts from the oven and garnish each plate with 6 hearts.

• Serve immediately.

Smoked Chicken Hearts You will need to make the smoked chicken hearts 2 days before assembling the salad.

12 chicken hearts* Whole milk, as needed 1 gallon water, plus more for rinsing ¾ cup salt 1 cup brown sugar • Soak the chicken hearts in enough milk to cover. Place in the refrigerator overnight.

• Remove the hearts from the milk and discard the milk. Rinse the hearts under cold water.

• In a large bowl, combine 1 gallon of water with the salt and brown sugar.

Whisk until all of the salt and sugar has been dissolved. Transfer the brine to a large container with a tight-fitting lid. Add the chicken hearts to the brine and refrigerate, covered, for 12 hours.

• Remove the hearts from the brine, rinse under cold water and pat dry with a towel.

• Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.

• To smoke the chicken hearts, you will need two pans: one perforated and one not. Place the chicken hearts directly atop the perforated pan and set it aside. Fill the other pan, which should be twice as deep as the perforated pan, with wood chips and just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan but not enough so that the chips get soaked through. Set the perforated pan atop the pan with the wood chips and water and cover the entire structure with foil.

• Place the pans in the oven and let cook for 1 hour. When removing the pans from the oven, step outside to take the foil off, as it will be very smoky.

• Store in the refrigerator until ready to use. *Available at area grocery stores

Pickled Fennel and Kohlrabi You will need to make the smoked chicken hearts 1 day before assembling the salad.

1 fennel bulb, very finely shaved 1 kohlrabi bulb, very finely shaved 3 cups Champagne vinegar (or white wine) 1½ cups water 1 Tbsp. salt ²∕³ cup honey • Place the fennel and kohlrabi in a heatproof container with a tight-fitting lid. Keep uncovered.

• Add the vinegar, water, salt and honey to a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil.

• Pour the boiling liquid over the shaved fennel and kohlrabi. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight.

• When ready to use, strain the fennel and kohlrabi and discard the brine.

Soy and Balsamic Vinaigrette ¹∕³ cup

3 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar (Pedro XO brand if possible) 5 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. honey ½ shallot, minced 2 cups canola oil (or other neutral oil) Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

• Add the vinegar, soy sauce, mustard, honey and shallot to a blender and blend until combined.

• Remove the lid to the blender and slowly drizzle in the oil with the blender running on medium speed to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Caramelized Apples with Foie Gras Ice Cream and Spiced Walnuts Courtesy of Sidney Street Cafe’s Bob Zugmaier 10 Servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows) Caramel Apple Purée (recipe follows) Spiced Walnuts (recipe follows) Foie Gras Ice Cream (recipe follows) • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Heat the Caramelized Apples in the oven for 5 minutes or until heated through.

• Place a streak of Caramel Apple Purée on a plate. (The purée can be served hot or cold.) Place half of 1 hot Caramelized Apple over the purée.

Add a generous amount of the Spiced Walnuts and place a scoop of Foie Gras Ice Cream off to the side. Repeat with the other 9 plates.

• Serve immediately.

Caramelized Apples Vegetable oil, as needed 5 Fuji apples, peeled and split top to bottom 4 Tbsp. butter, divided 1 cup apple cider ½ cup brown sugar • Heat a saute pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it’s hot.

• Add a thin coat of oil, then add the apples on their flat side and sear them.

When they begin to brown, add 2 tablespoons of butter and continue to sear the apples until they are deeply browned.

• Once the apples are caramelized, discard the oil and flip the apples over.

Add the cider, being careful because it will pop and spatter. Add the brown sugar and remaining 2 tablespoons January 2013

of butter and cook until the liquid becomes a caramel.

• Baste the apples every 2 minutes until they are done, about 10 minutes depending on the size of your apples. Cool immediately and reserve the caramel to use in the Caramel Apple Purée (recipe follows).

Caramel Apple Purée Vegetable oil, as needed 5 Fuji apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped 4 Tbsp. butter, divided Reserved caramel from Caramelized Apples (recipe above) Salt to taste Apple cider vinegar to taste • Heat a saute pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it’s hot.

• Add a thin coat of oil, then add the apples and caramelize them on all sides until they’re very brown.

• Add 2 tablespoons of butter and the reserved caramel, and cook until the apples are very tender. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth.

• Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, and season to taste with salt and apple cider vinegar. Purée until very smooth.

• The purée can be used hot or be chilled immediately for later use.

Spiced Walnuts 1 cup walnuts ¼ cup brown sugar ½ tsp. cayenne pepper Water, as needed Salt to taste • Heat a saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the walnuts and lightly toast them, stirring often, for about 5 minutes.

• Add the brown sugar and cayenne pepper, and stir to incorporate.

• Add a splash of water and season with salt to taste. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the water is evaporated.

• Serve hot or at room temperature.

Foie Gras Ice Cream 1½ cups sugar, divided 4 oz. foie gras*, cut into small chunks just before using 1½ cups whole milk January 2013

4 egg yolks, lightly beaten just before using 2 cups cream • Make an ice bath in a large bowl. Set aside.

• Add ¾ cup of sugar and a small amount of water to a stainless steel saute pan set over medium heat. Cook until the mixture turns a light amber, about 10 minutes.

• Add the foie gras and cook it on all sides until each piece is well-browned.

• Add the milk and remaining ¾ cup of sugar to the foie gras and stir until evenly incorporated. Bring the mixture to a boil.

• Whisking the eggs constantly, drizzle in a small portion of the hot milkand-foie mixture until all of the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat of the pan with the remaining hot milk mixture to medium-low. Pour the heated, tempered eggs into the remaining hot milk mixture while stirring with a wooden spoon until the eggs are fully incorporated.

• Add the milk-and-foie mixture to a blender, then add the cream. Purée until very smooth. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer into a bowl.

Place the bowl over the ice bath to cool.

• Once the mixture is chilled, cover it with plastic wrap and let the base mature for a few hours in the refrigerator.

• Add the base to your ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep frozen until ready to use. * Available at The Smokehouse Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com

The Hound Dog

• Add the bourbon, triple sec, lemon juice, simple syrup and bitters to a cocktail shaker and shake to combine.

• Fine strain the mixture into the chilled rocks glass.

• From the orange, peel off a 1½-by-1inch piece of the peel, being careful to include as little of the white pith as possible. Take a match and, without actually touching the flame to the peel, heat the peel for 3 seconds. Above the glass, squeeze the peel into the flame and away from your face, letting the oils ignite and drop into the glass.

Garnish with the flamed orange peel.

Star Anise-Infused Heaven Hill Bonded Makes 25.4 ounces You will need to infuse the bourbon 1 day before preparing the cocktail.

2 dried star anise pods 1 750-mL bottle Heaven Hill Bonded bourbon • Crack the dried star anise pods and place them in a 1-liter Mason jar or drop them directly into the original bourbon bottle.

• Shake up the jar or bottle, and let it sit out at room temperature, covered, for 24 hours.

• The next day, fine strain the infused bourbon into a large bowl, discarding the pods. Return the contents to the jar or bottle.

• The infused bourbon is now ready to use. It will keep indefinitely.

Salmon with Cauliflower Steak and Brown Butter Sauce Courtesy of The Crossing’s Thu Rein Oo

Courtesy of Hendricks BBQ’s Keyan Still 1 Serving 1 Serving 1½ oz. Star Anise-Infused Heaven Hill Bonded bourbon (recipe follows) 1 oz. Stirrings triple sec ½ oz. lemon juice ½ oz. simple syrup 2 dashes Bittertruth Aromatic Bitters 1 orange • Place a small rocks glass in the freezer for 10 minutes.

1 head cauliflower 8 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided ½ tsp. freshly chopped garlic ½ carrot, peeled and diced ¼ head green cabbage, diced ¼ red bell pepper, diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 salmon filet, 2-inches wide, 1-inch thick, 6-inches long, skin removed

2 Tbsp. capers, drained 1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tsp. freshly chopped parsley • Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

• First, cut the cauliflower into a “steak”: Using a sharp, heavy knife and starting at the top center of the cauliflower head, cut a 1-inch-thick slice of cauliflower, cutting through the stem end. Set the cauliflower “steak” aside. Reserve the rest of the cauliflower for another use.

• Add 4 tablespoons of oil and 4 tablespoons of butter to a saute pan set over medium heat. When the oil and butter are warm, add the garlic. Saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

• Add the carrots, cabbage, peppers, and salt and pepper to taste. Saute for 2 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside.

• Add 2 tablespoons of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter to a saute pan set over high heat. Add the cauliflower and let it brown for 1 minute. Flip and cook for another 30 seconds on the other side. Transfer to the oven and let it cook for 1 minute. Remove and set aside.

• Next, prepare the salmon: Cut the filet in half lengthwise, so you have 2 filets that are 1-inch wide, 1-inch thick and 6-inches long. Form 1 filet into a “c” shape, and make the other filet into a tighter “c” shape. With the two “c” shapes facing one another, tuck the small “c”-shaped filet tightly inside the larger “c”-shaped filet so that they make a medallion. Tie a piece of kitchen twine around the medallion.

Season all sides of the salmon with salt and pepper.

• Add 2 tablespoons of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter to a saute pan set over medium heat. Place the salmon in the pan and let it cook for 1 minute.

Flip and cook the other side for 30 seconds. Immediately transfer the salmon to the oven and let it cook for 1 minute for medium doneness. Remove from the oven and set aside.

• Add the capers to a saute pan set over high heat and toast for 1 minute. Add 4 tablespoons of butter and let it cook until it browns, about 30 seconds.

Add the lemon juice and parsley and immediately remove from heat.

• To serve, place the cauliflower steak in the middle of the plate. Place all of the vegetables to the left of the cauliflower, and the salmon to the right. Spoon some of the brown butter sauce over the fish and some around the plate.

• Serve immediately.

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January 2013

stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

LaSalle Park Music Festival Jan. 12 – noon to Jan. 13 – 2:30 a.m., 4 Hands Brewery and Old Rock House · 314.436.1559 Facebook: Old Rock House There’s never a shortage of parties at STL’s many microbreweries, but this one is truly cause for celebration: 4 Hands Brewery is one year old. The brewery is teaming up with Soulard neighbor the Old Rock House for an all-day birthday party with music by 20 local acts on three stages, plus the release of two new beers. The inaugural LaSalle Park Music Festival will feature the first pours of Home – a double-red ale that pours dark crimson in color with aromas of caramel, stone fruit and toffee – and No Place Like Home, which features Dorothy’s ruby slippers from The Wizard of Oz on the label and has been aged in cabernet wine barrels.

Classes at L’Ecole Culinaire Various dates, L’Ecole Culinaire and L’Ecole Culinaire Academy 314.587.2433 lecoleacademy.com L’Ecole Culinaire in Ladue and its new satellite location in Olivette, L’Ecole Culinaire Academy, are offering a tempting bunch of classes to kick off the new year. Instruction in knife skills, cake baking and decorating, cooking with pork, a spice tutorial, Super Bowl snacks, tamales, Mardi Gras favorites, and “Date Night” classes featuring Japanese and French cooking are scheduled for January. Head to the website for more info.

January 2013

Speed Rack Jan. 13 – 2 p.m., 2720 Cherokee Gallery PAC speed-rack.com Speed Rack is the cleverly named bartending contest for women with events in cities across the U.S. The St. Louis contest will be held this month at a Cherokee Street event space and promises to be a showcase of rapid-fire mixology, all to benefit breast cancer research. At the femme-created competition, bartenders make a round of cocktails selected at random from a list of 50 industrystandard recipes in a timed format. The winner – Miss Speed Rack – advances to a national competition. Audience admission includes snacks plus cocktails made with liquor by sponsoring companies like Absolut, Altos, Barritts, Beefeater, Benedictine, Brugal, Campari, Cherry Heering, Cointreau, Cutty Sark, Drambuie, Four Roses, Jameson, Lillet, Plymouth, St. Germain and Xante.

Alton Restaurant Week Jan. 18 to 27, various Alton restaurants · 618.465.6676 altonrestaurantweek.com Alton, Ill., isn’t just the place where a nearly 9-foot-tall man lived a short and messed-up life (Robert Wadlow, R.I.P.).

It’s also a community that’s home to many intriguing restaurants, and there’s no better time to explore them than Alton Restaurant Week. A prix fixe menu at 16 restaurants in Alton and Grafton, Ill., features $10 lunch and $25 dinners.

Consider the chicken pot pie at State Street Market, the horseradish-encrusted

salmon with salad and dessert at Gentelin’s, fried chicken with unlimited sides for two at the Pere Marquette Lodge, and much more – and don’t be faultin’ Alton, yo.

Ferguson Indoor Farmers Market

Jan. 19 – 9 to 11:30 a.m., St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church 314.324.4298 · fergmarket.com The Ferguson Indoor Farmers Market keeps the market fires burning during the frigid months with a monthly happening at a Ferguson church. In December, the minimarket offered baked goods by Cose Dolci, Great Harvest Breads and El Chico Empanadas; meats from Dietz Siebert and Sugar Creek Piedmontese Beef; fresh produce from Mast Farm, R Pizza Farm and Hahn Farm; Olea 4 Life olive oils and vinegars; honey; kettle corn; and nonedibles like soaps and lip balms. Also, the Just Omelets corner makes custom omelets to order. The FIMF happens every third Saturday through April.

Classes at St. Louis Wine & Beermaking All-Grain Brewing Demo: Jan. 5 – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Intro to Extract Brewing: Jan. 16 – 6 to 9 p.m., St. Louis Wine & Beermaking · 636.230.8277 wineandbeermaking.com Start 2013 with a toast of beer you’ve brewed yourself. Chesterfield’s St. Louis Wine & Beermaking offers two beginners’ classes this month, one free and the other very reasonably priced. The All-Grain Brewing Demo is outdoors (so dress

warmly), free and structured as an open house, so you can drop in and leave any time. Instructor Amy Lewis teaches basic methods of boiling, mashing the grain, etc., using the equipment of the Blichmann Top Tier system. Later in the month, Lewis teaches a more involved, three-hour Intro to Extract Brewing class ($30 fee). Students will make a clone of a Sierra Nevada pale ale using a simple method of brewing with already-prepped dried or liquid grains.

They’ll also learn how to bottle some beer to take home at the end of the night.

Reservations are necessary for the latter class, so call or go in to make yours now.

St. Louis Wine & Beermaking sells all the equipment and ingredients needed to make beer and wine, and helpful books, too.

sponsored events

Clayton Restaurant Week Jan. 21 to 27 – various restaurants claytonrestaurantweek.net Clayton Restaurant Week returns this year just in time to save you from your wintertime dining rut. Enjoy a three-course meal for just $25 at 18 Clayton restaurants including The Crossing, Araka, Mad Tomato, Oceano Bistro, DeMun Oyster Bar and many more. Consider adding a $5 Extra Helping donation to your bill, which will go to Operation Food Search.

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5 Questions for Andy Heaslet Andy Heaslet had to change the name of his South Grand Delivered restaurant-delivery service to Griffin Delivery for the best of reasons: He expanded his territory to downtown. More territory means more adventures, like the strange interludes with a customer known as “The Hand.”

Griffin Delivery To see the full list of restaurants available at Griffin Delivery or to place an order: 314.270.2276, griffindelivery.com

1. How do the couriers carry the food? The bikes have a box-rack that attaches to the seat post. It weighs maybe three to five pounds, and when you add 10 to 15 pounds of food into it, it changes the way you have to ride your bike. You have to use your abs more and control your handlebars more. Other couriers only work with burrito and sandwich places, because you can just throw it in the backpack. We can’t do that with blackened tilapia from Mangia; it wouldn’t be fair to the food. We use an insulated box big enough to hold five 18-inch pizzas or 12 box lunches.

2. What’s the strangest moment one of your couriers has had? One that seems to happen repeatedly is when you’re knocking on the door for a really long time, and then finally a woman comes to the door holding her robe closed and needs two hands to take the food and sign the receipt, and we get a show.

Then there’s one customer [who] wouldn’t let us see her face. The door would open just like six inches … a hand would come out to take the food and then the hand would come back to give the courier a stack of quarters. We called that customer “The Hand.”

3. Can you guys deliver soup without spilling it?

We’ve done more than 1,000 deliveries in two years and on only four or five occasions did we have to go back because the food got screwed up in transit. Our gear – our setup – is really effective.

For part 2 of this interview, visit the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com.

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5. What did you do before that? I was a mascot in college: “Slapshot” the polar bear with the Indianapolis Ice of the Central Hockey League. I think my craziest moment as a mascot was when I was crowd-surfing over people and I unintentionally came to a stop atop an old lady, and I thought I’d broken every bone in her body. Then a guy stuck his finger in the polar bear’s face, which was a little higher than my face, and said, “Not cool, Slapshot. Not cool.” I felt bad, but as a mascot I couldn’t speak so I just had to mime that I was sorry. – Byron Kerman January 2013

Photo by laura miller

4. Your business is awfully green. I want to run my forprofit with the same passion and compassion I had when I was running a non-profit. That was called the Peace Economy Project; it was about building an economy based more on peaceful endeavors than the militaryindustrial complex. The new business is environmentally conscious, fun and makes a profit. We’re still working on that last one, but my heart’s in it and that’s the important thing. The famous activist Percy Green heard my idea for the business and he encouraged me to go for it.

January 2013

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January 2013