Sauce Magazine // January 2020

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W A T C H meet farmhaus beverage director bailey schuchmann and the rest of our rising stars on p. 26

January 2020 MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // saucemagazine.com F R E E , JA N UAI SAUCE RY 2020

JANUARY 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 1 PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Huff Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Michelle Volansky Megan Gilmore Julia Calleo, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Kristin Schultz, Matt Sorrell, Brenna Sullivan Allyson Mace Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Brenna Sullivan

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St. Louis, MO 63103 January 2020

January 2020

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contents JA N UA RY 2 02 0

reviews

editors' picks

17 NEW AND NOTABLE The Bellwether

7 EAT THIS

by michael renner

Rigatoni at The Clover and The Bee

by meera nagarajan

Arber Café

9 places to try this month

by heather hughes huff, catherine klene and adam rothbarth 12 11 REASONS WE LOVE Utah Station

ONES TO WATCH Food and drink pros with promise

by heather hughes huff, catherine klene, adam rothbarth, kristin schultz and matt sorrell

last bite 38 STUFF TO DO by brenna sullivan

COVER DETAILS Ones to Watch 2020 Farmhaus service manager and beverage director Bailey Schuchmann is one of the St. Louis food and drink industry’s rising stars. Meet the whole 2020 class of Sauce Ones to Watch on p. 26 PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM on Monday, Jan. 6, when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air to discuss nine must-try new restaurants in St. Louis.

40 LANDMARK

by catherine klene 15 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

26

by matt berkley

9 HIT LIST

January 2020

20 LUNCH RUSH

features

Sportsman's Park

by matt sorrell 42 WHAT I DO Carmen Estrada

by lauren healey

octopus at bellwether, p. 17

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Eat This

The rigatoni at The Clover and The Bee is the unfussy, reliably delicious comfort food we crave. Fat noodles swim in a creamy, spicy tomato-vodka sauce with fruity heat from Calabrian chilies. The simple dish gets a luxurious upgrade with a generous amount of lobster meat. Order it and be the envy of your table.

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

The Clover and The Bee 100 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.942.1216, thecloverandthebee.com

January 2020

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

hit list

9 new places to try this month

WINSLOW'S TABLE IN UNIVERSITY CITY January 2020

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HIT LIST p. 2 of 3

ORIGINAL J'S Original J’s, the latest from restaurateurs Mike and Liz Randolph, appeals to the dive-loving, country music-singing cowpoke in us as the James Beard-nominated chef puts his spin on Tex-Mex and Texas-style barbecue. With pickled veg, peppers, tomatoes and mustard, the hot link taco is basically a Chicago-style hot dog dressed up as a taco. On the barbecue side, the versatile brisket pairs with almost any side offered: tangy cucumbers in pesto, creamy kale salad or a citrusy tomato salad.

We loved every sauce presented, from the sesame salsa served with the chips to the sour cream-based J’s sauce, and yearned for more with every subsequent bite.

LITTLE FOX Little Fox is as darling as its name. Firsttime restaurateurs Craig and Mowgli Rivard offer a well-written menu of shareable plates like fried delicata squash with lemon and scallions, and larger entrees like a whole grilled trout. Along with solid cocktails and designated fortified wine sections, we are happy to report that the drink menu boasts almost 100 natural wines.

You’ll find us at the bar often with a bottle of pét-nat and marinated olives since bar manager Kelly Nyikes finally created the St. Louis natural wine destination we’ve been waiting for.

2800 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com

7359 Forsyth Blvd., University City, 314.202.8335, originaljs.com

MOUSSALLI'S PRIME The legacy of Andria’s Countryside Restaurant lives on at Moussalli’s Prime. The three Moussalli brothers, who serve as executive chefs and general manager, preserve longtime customer favorites like the decadent crab-stuffed mushrooms. Buttery soft steaks range from a $35 petit filet to a $49 rib-eye, but don’t pass on other entrees. A sunchoke and lobster risotto appears to contain the meat of an entire crustacean. A side of twicefried garlic Parmesan steak fries is the sleeper on the menu. You’re meant to share them – good luck with that.

Soulard probably doesn’t need another bar and grill, but we’re glad it got one. We’re here for the CGBG loaded fries, which come drowning in a tangy beer cheese along with diced, grilled onions and chunks of bacon, but this is truly a burger spot. You can’t go wrong with any number of 4-ounce smash patties with American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle and fry sauce on a Martin’s potato roll.

7415 State Route 143, Edwardsville, 618.656.0281, moussallisprime.com

2501 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, Instagram: Jack Nolen’s

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JACK NOLEN'S

January 2020

LITTLE FOX PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH; ORIGINAL J'S PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

clockwise from top: a selection of dishes at original j's tex-mex barbecue, the shaved brussels sprouts and kale salad at little fox, the bar at little fox

WINSLOW'S TABLE Remaking an institution like Winslow’s Home is no easy task, but the new owners, Vicia’s Michael and Tara Gallina, were up to the challenge.

Winslow’s Table maintains the classybut-comfortable atmosphere of the original with some fresh updates.

The Caesar is made more interesting with the addition of roasted broccoli and cauliflower and an anchovy vinaigrette. Classics are pitch perfect – like the fluffy but substantial Winslow’s Pancakes, served with preserved blueberries, maple syrup and whipped butter. Rotating soups and dishes like the grain salad with whipped ricotta and green goddess dressing were modified and imported from Vicia’s lunch menu with equal success. We can’t wait to see what the new Winslow’s does for dinner service – coming soon.

7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowstable.com

the buttermilk biscuit sandwich at winslow’s table

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

HIGH LOW

SOUTHSIDE WINE + SPIRITS

HOOK & REEL

WILD OLIVE PROVISIONS

High Low combines Blueprint Coffee and the literary arts in a lofty Grand Center space. The coffee is expectedly on point, but High Low’s secret weapon is the food ported from Bulrush chef Rob Connoley’s nowclosed Squatter’s Café. We enjoyed the aromatic vegan cherry-sesame biscotti, the respectably spicy peanut butter cookies and the buoyant brown sugar-cinnamon Squat-Tarts.

This tiny bottle shop in south St. Louis offers a great selection of some popular grapes, along with some unexpected finds.

Almost everything in the shop costs less than $30, making it a great last-minute stop for those in the neighborhood. If you’re not into vino, a shelf of spirits and a refrigerator stocked with Rockwell Beer Co. brews is also available.

Every neighborhood deserves a Wild Olive Provisions. The cheese case is stocked with some of the best local producers, from Marcoot Creamery to Baetje Farms. The wine wall features bottles primarily from Australia and California, with a few available by the glass each day, and a small selection of gifts is also offered, including some great Cape Woolamai Australian wool cooler bags.

3301 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.0367, kranzbergartsfoundation.org/high-low

5017 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.779.6294, southsidewineandspirits.com

2201 S. 39th St., St. Louis, 314.300.8089, Facebook: Wild Olive Provisions

January 2020

St. Louis can’t seem to get enough seafood boils. Select your favorites, from scallops to crawfish, then choose your sauce. Pro tip: Get one bag with a spicy original Cajun and another with classic garlic butter to cool you down. Some restaurants turn out tough, rubbery shellfish, but the peeland-eat shrimp at the first Missouri location of this national chain were totally tender. The boil bags come with corn and potatoes, and you have the option to add extras like andouille and hard-boiled eggs.

4680 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.282.0770, hookreel.com

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11 REASONS TO GO TO

UTAH STATION Utah Station executive chef Chris Bertke spent years perfecting his plant-based proteins with the look and texture of ground beef, gyro meat and even chicken to create vegan versions of fast food favorites. Bertke is the first to say his food isn’t healthy – but it is damn good. Here are 11 reasons we love Utah Station. – Catherine Klene

Buffalo cauliflower

that actually keeps its crunch when soused in sauce

Crack Tacos

that recall only the fun parts of a 2 a.m. Jack in the Box run

Bertke’s random specials

test the limits of what can be veganized, from meatloaf to turkey roulade to a meatball sub.

Veganized fried chicken

The Good Time Meals

combine happy hour and Happy Meals with a four-piece nugget or cheeseburger, a small fry, a mini Miller High Life and a surprise – just like when you were a kid (sort of).

sandwiches and nuggets that are straight-up witchcraft

A custom twotiered fire pit

provides plenty of warmth and extra seating on cool nights.

The menu

also features a real beef burger and meat pizza toppings, so even carnivores can find something they’ll love.

A double smash burger

so meat-like, it fooled our intern

Thinly shaved roast beef

that’s not beef with dairy-free cheddar cheese sauce

1956 Utah St., St. Louis, 314.588.8099, Facebook: Utah Station

The dining room

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

feels like an extension of the upcycled brick patio when two huge garage doors open during nice weather.

Vegan T-ravs

so good they should be on The Hill

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

TED AND JAMIE KILGORE

A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

warped perception is a magnificent hazy ipa

USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

The alpine Zerbinz Stone Pine Liqueur is pleasantly invigorating. This Austrian liqueur is made from wild, hand-harvested young stone pine. While pine is in the forefront, providing notes similar to gin, Zerbinz also boasts berry, floral and herbal qualities. We fancy it on the rocks as a digestif or in tonic or soda with a lemon wedge. $38. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com

RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop

Warped Perception from 4 Hands Brewing Co. is a magnificent, 6.5% hazy IPA that boasts a magical combination of tropical fruit and earthy hops. This double dry-hopped brew pours a nice clouded straw color with earthy aromas and lingering citrus notes. The rich mouthfeel perfectly balances carbonation and tames the bitterness of the hops. Four-pack: $13.

Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

January 2020

Shannon Ridge Winery has found a way to balance the flavors of bourbon barrels with cabernet sauvignon in its 2018 Ye Old Buck Shack Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine features caramel and butterscotch aromas and a dark blackberry and currant character that stands up to any residual spirit. $20. Wine Market, 12207 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.222.9627, Facebook: Wine Market saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

the butcher's steak

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

the bellwether

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON

You would be forgiven for taking the elevator to the second floor, as I did on a recent evening.

Expecting to step into The Bellwether, the new American restaurant from the culinary crew behind Polite Society in Lafayette Square, I inadvertently crashed a private party. The last time I was here for dinner, the second floor was occupied

by Element, which closed in October 2018 after five years.

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NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3

The Bellwether also occupies the top two levels of the three-story building, but owners Jonathan Schoen and Brian Schmitz flip-flopped the configuration to consolidate the bar and restaurant on the top floor, which housed Element’s clubby lounge, and devote the second to The Reference Room, the beautiful book- and bottle-lined event space I happened upon.

the bar at bellwether

Finally entering The Bellwether upstairs, I was immersed in a poetic mashup of lush design influences. Gone was the masculine, industrial chic of its predecessor. Instead, rich hues, silky brocade drapes, inlaid bar tiles and elevated booths decked out in plush red velvet conveyed a sensual opulence, while the starry canopy of beaded chandeliers and Moroccan-style hanging lamps exuded an amber ambiance.

Chef Thomas Futrell’s polyglot menu likewise draws inspiration from many sources. The dishes may at first seem predictable, even inevitable, for another upscale, trend-driven restaurant serving “modern American cuisine,” but Futrell (who is still executive chef at Polite Society) steers us in new directions without losing the itinerary. This is grand luxe dining with a decidedly unfussy attitude.

Take steak as an example. There is filet mignon, should you prefer, but the Butcher’s Steak, a rarely offered teres major shoulder cut, provided so much more flavor and interest – and not just because it was rubbed with cinnamon and coffee before being chargrilled.

Served on a bed of apple butter and paired with roasted root vegetables, heady herbs and puffed wild rice, it encapsulated everything good about fall on one plate. The only flaw: It arrived more rare than the medium-rare ordered.

Futrell’s untraditional take on humble Hungarian chicken paprikash rendered something lighter but no less comforting. He forwent simmering the leg quarter in the customary sour cream- and paprikabased sauce in favor of braising it with the sweet, vermillion-hued spice

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and serving it atop a bed of aromatic, nutmeg-infused spaetzle with a few dollops of lemon crema for citrusy tang, all crowned with shaved broccoli.

the octopus at bellwether

The selection of house-made pastas was wonderful. Marrying two of the best comfort foods, the standout short rib stroganoff should be required eating in winter. Perfectly al dente rigatoni met sauteed spinach and mushrooms, and caramelized fennel and onion in a hearty meat sauce bolstered by sour cream. English pea ravioli was another highlight: ricotta-filled, pillowy pouches ladled with wine-braised shredded chicken, carrots and sweet, verdant peas then finished with a luscious au jus.

Pieces of crispy chicken skin provided the exclamation point.

As at Polite Society, the bar is gorgeous and is helmed by beverage director Travis Hebrank. At Bellwether, he put together a rotating wine list ranging from $9 to $19 glasses (a sparkling moscato and brut Champagne,

mushroom and ginger dumplings at bellwether

respectively), as well as an impressive lineup of literary-themed cocktails, many incorporating house-made infusions.

It’s a great spot to nosh on a small plate of savory mushroom and ginger dumplings, chewy pillows braised in tamari that harmonized well with the citrusy sharpness of Paradise Lost (Basil Hayden bourbon, dry vermouth, Madeira, fig leaf syrup, lime juice). Or sip on a sharp, balanced Catcher in the Rye (High West double rye, Cynar, Rinomato Aperitivo, simple syrup, chive tincture, lime juice) with some French onion toasted ravioli that tasted like deep-fried pockets of the best cheesy French onion soup you’ve ever had.

With a sumptuous setting, a focus on balancing fine dining with approachability and a team that pays attention to the details, The Bellwether is living up to its name. If Polite Society is the neighborhood bistro you selfishly want to keep to yourself, The Bellwether is the restaurant you want to show off and share.

the bellwether

Where 1419 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.380.3086, thebellwetherstl. com Don’t-Miss Dishes Mushroom and ginger dumplings, English pea ravioli, Butcher’s Steak Vibe Subtle opulence without the opulent attitude Entree Prices $15 to $44 When Sun. to Thu. – 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 4:30 to 11 p.m.; Sun. – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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LUNCH RUSH

Gyro Deluxe A delight to any serious carnivore, the massive gyro deluxe is doublestuffed with thick slices of lamb-beef gyro meat and qofte, a traditional Albanian meatball laden with garlic, oregano and a heavy dose of coarse-ground pepper.

These are tucked into a pillow of pita along with red onion, feta and tomato and served with a generous supply of house-made yogurt sauce, fresh cucumber and garlic.

LUNCH RUSH

arber café

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

An ideal spot for a midday refuel, Arber Café is a South City treasure with heavenly baked goods. The restaurant turns out traditional Albanian dishes and classic Mediterranean comfort food, and pictures of the owner’s native Albania line the walls for a cozy coffeehouse vibe.

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Ali Pash Tepelena Rice Though not featured on the regular menu, this traditional Albanian meat and rice dish is a crowd favorite. It is regularly catered to the International Institute of St. Louis’ weekly lunch and shows up as a special at Arber. The Old World dish begins with a bed of savory arborio rice studded with crunchy bits of almonds and raisins for a hint of natural sweetness. A heaping portion of grilled chicken, marinated simply with olive oil, salt and pepper, rests on top.

Olive Salad This fresh, citrusy vegetarian dish bursts with bold colors. True to its origins in southern Albania, an environment rich in olive groves and lemon trees, this classic

ali pash tepelena rice

albanian pettula

gyro deluxe

the dining room at arber café

Arber Café 6955 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6622, Facebook: Arber Café

salad leans heavily on chopped oranges, lemons and olive oil.

Rich kalamata olives are accented nicely by chopped red onion and flakes of oregano.

Byrek A pilgrimage to Arber Café would be incomplete without an order of byrek. Served in four pieces, these crispy phyllo pastries are stuffed with a choice of spinach, cheese or ground beef with spices. The fresh spinach includes feta and strong hints of mint and oregano for a warm, crunchy pocket of cheesy goodness. The unique, savory ground beef byrek delivered notes of garlic, onion and oregano with a satisfying crunch.

Albanian Pettula Traditional Albanian pettula, or fried dough, is a crispy, sweet indulgence of the highest order.

Thick, yeasted dough balls are pan-fried to order and sprinkled with crushed pistachios and honey. Simple and seductively sweet, a sixpiece order is worth a trip in itself.

The Downside Unless you’re ordering for pickup, don’t expect grab-and-go speed. Be prepared to settle in with a coffee while you wait.

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PARTNER CONTENT

Happy, healthy New Year

BY LAUREN HEALEY

F

eeling a little weighed down after months of indulgences? January is the perfect time to set your intentions for the year and get back on track after an abundance of holiday feasts. These local businesses will help you reach your goals in no time.

DD MAU VIETNAMESE EATERY DD Mau, a fast-casual Vietnamese eatery, reinvents traditional Vietnamese fare to offer the freshest

January May 2019 2020

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PARTNER CONTENT

ingredients and healthy options while preserving the same great, authentic tastes. The restaurant features a variety of spring rolls, bowls, banh mi, sliders, and pho, including several vegetarian and vegan selections. Dine-in for lunch and dinner daily or order online for pick-up and catering. DD Mau is open Monday through Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., as well as Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.942.2300, ddmaustl.com

rich vegetables and few processed carbohydrates, poke is a great choice for when you need a break from holiday treats.

The fish is delivered fresh daily and the vegetables are chopped each morning.

Choose your ingredients to create a truly individual bowl you will love.

8 S. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.5900; 6316 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.553.9440, pokedokestl.com

KOMBLU KOMBUCHA

Finding healthy options outside the city can sometimes be a challenge, but Source Juicery in Edwardsville lets you enjoy the convenience of clean eating on the go. Stick to your wellness goals with a plethora of nutritious options, from coldpressed juice, nut milks, smoothies and wellness shots to salads, grain bowls and bone broth, as well as breakfast staples like oats and parfaits. All menu items are perfect to grab and go, but the eatery has ample seating for those who’d like to linger. It’s also entirely gluten-free with many vegan options for people with dietary restrictions. Try a juice cleanse, from one to three days, with the option to add meal packs or protein packs (grilled chicken and power bites).

228 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.650.9080, sourcejuicery.com

Kombucha (naturally carbonated, live probiotic, fermented tea) may be just what you need to get your gut health on track for 2020. Loaded with antioxidants and digestive enzymes, kombucha can improve digestion while strengthening the immune system and microbiome, among many other benefits. Locally owned KomBlu utilizes only the highest quality, organic ingredients – including fair trade, premium grade tea, cane sugar and cold-pressed choice fruit juice – to blend with purified reverse osmosis water and food grade essential oils. And because KomBlu’s “booch” is stored in beautiful cobalt blue bottles, it is protected from damaging UV light, which can kill the good bacteria. KomBlu is found in dozens of local restaurants and grocery stores. Find a complete list on the website or the top post on Facebook.

314.803.1102, komblu.com

LEMONSHARK POKE Change up your lunch routine while sticking to your health goals. Load up on protein and veggies at LemonShark, which serves only the finest, ethically sourced ingredients. There are glutenfree, vegetarian and vegan choices, along with nutritious base options like black forbidden rice, soba noodles (half the carbs and calories of regular pasta) and mixed greens, and there’s even a nutrition calculator online. Winter hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday (2 to 8 p.m. for GrubHub and PostMates only) and closed Saturday and Sunday.

33 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8890, lemonsharkpoke.com

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Focus on increasing your intake of fruits, veggies and lean protein to maximize your wellness goals.

LOCAL HARVEST GROCERY

LONA’S LIL EATS

Founded in 2007, Local Harvest Grocery sources as many products from within 150 miles of St. Louis as possible, including produce, free-range eggs, pastureraised meat and more. The independent grocery store buys directly from farmers and artisans, helping the local economy grow by keeping money in the region, decreasing the miles products travel and ensuring the freshest food available.

Local Harvest offers a full line of organic groceries, along with a bulk section of organic grains, nuts, seeds, herbs, spices, coffee and tea, and even environmentally friendly soaps and cleaning supplies.

Don’t miss out on Weekly Harvest, a year-round CSA subscription featuring local, pasture-raised meat or vegetarian alternatives, plenty of produce, free-range eggs every other week, and a monthly rotation of locally roasted coffee or tea, local grains and dairy.

3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

If you enjoy Asian soul food with a flare but want to indulge in a healthy manner, Lona’s Lil Eats’ home-style meals are light yet satisfying and keep your body fueled all day long. There are plenty of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options, and customization is encouraged. Sauces – which range from sweet or savory to sour or spicy – provide full-bodied flavors, and any entree can be made into a salad if you’re trying to work more veggies into your diet. Plus, everything is made fresh with no preservatives or MSG. To up your antioxidant intake, complete your meal with the vast selection of teas, from green and white to oolong and black.

2199 California Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.1888, lonaslileats.com

POKE DOKE When looking for a change of pace from the traditional, calorie-laden dishes of the holidays, turn to a delicious poke bowl.

Packed full of omega-3 fats, nutrient-

ST. LOUIS JUICE PRESS If you’re ready to get back on track after holiday indulgences, a three- or five-day cold-pressed juice cleanse is the perfect solution to nourish and energize your body for the coming year, as well as give your digestive system a break. Rich in vitamins, minerals and anti-inflammatory compounds, fresh juice improves mental clarity, digestion and sleep. Flood your body with an abundance of nutrients and active enzymes while boosting your immune system with six 16-ounce handcrafted juices per day, from a delectable green juice with cucumber, apple, spinach and celery to a pineapple, orange and ginger blend. The St. Louis Juice Press also offers single juices and is proud to be the exclusive juice provider to the St. Louis Blues.

4701B S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.1866, stlouisjuice.com May 2020 2019 January

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O ES N TO

WATCH

BY HEATHER HUGHES HUFF, CATHERINE KLENE, ADAM ROTHBARTH, KRISTIN SCHULTZ AND MATT SORRELL // PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

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S

FOOD AND DRINK PROS WITH PROMISE

January 2020

nico shumpert

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PRIVATE CHEF AND INFLUENCER WHY WATCH HIM: HE AIMS TO BE THE NEW FACE OF ST. LOUIS CULINARY CLASSES.

N I C O

S H U M P E R T

AGE: 30

NICO SHUMPERT HAS A LOT OF IDEAS. From private dinners to pop-ups, social media series to YouTube cooking tutorials, this young chef is working hard to get noticed.

“I get it – like, ‘A jack-oftrades is a master of none,’” he said. “But at the same time, if you finish the quote, it’s ‘Often better than a master of one.’ I’d rather have value in that sense.”

That’s why Shumpert left Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. after four years helping to open new cafes. “Kaldi’s was nice, it was stable, but it wasn’t scratching that itch for me,” Shumpert said. “I feel stuck in the confines of a restaurant. I just want to be able to stretch my legs and do whatever I want.”

Shumpert estimates he’s been part of about 50 popup dinners and private events in the past three years. The rejection he faces cold-calling potential locations doesn’t deter him.

“I go in, set up, execute and, most of the time, I’m invited back. It’s been great,” he said.

He talks about his efforts – from editing YouTube videos to learning how to cook blowfish – with an indefatigable cheerfulness.

It’s a quality that continues to impress his former boss and mentor, Kaldi’s director of culinary development Frank McGinty, who said

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he believes Shumpert’s confidence and determination will make him successful when he decides on a direction.

He still calls on Shumpert any time he needs lastminute help with an event because Shumpert can jump into any situation and lead a kitchen. Most importantly, though, his food is good.

Shumpert has thrown a lot of ideas against the wall since leaving Kaldi’s, but he’s ready for his new project to stick. “My end goal is to have a private kitchen where I can do intimate cooking classes,” he said. He is starting this month with hands-on classes at the Brentwood Community Center, hoping to be a new face for culinary classes, attracting a different, younger audience than places like Kitchen Conservatory.

“I don’t know of any young, black chefs doing any of this,” he said. “Millennials don’t know how to cook, but they’re curious. They spend more time on YouTube and on their phone trying to learn how to do things. You can order Blue Apron and all that stuff, but people actually still enjoy having somebody show them how to do it. That right there is the atmosphere and the experience I want to create.”

– H.H.H. nicoshumpert.com

January 2020

ALEJANDRA

FALLOWS

BAR MANAGER, CHANDLER HILL VINEYARDS AGE: 25 W H Y W A T C H H E R : S H E ’ S C R E A T I N G A C U L T U R E W E W A N T T O B E P A R T O F.

ALEJANDRA FALLOWS IS SICK OF HEARING “What did you expect?” when someone she knows is harassed at work. She’s tired of people laughing at the idea that the hospitality industry can change – especially because she’s going to change it.

“Big picture, I’d like to own my own business and create jobs for people and create a very ethical and healthy work environment in an industry that tends to be a little bit behind,” she said. And when Fallows decides to do something, she does it.

In the two years since she resolved to pursue a career in the industry while working at Bar Italia, Fallows has achieved the top score on her certified sommelier exam (earning her the Walter Clore Scholarship), attained the first level of cicerone certification, taken business classes online and become proficient behind the bar

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at one of St. Louis’ best cocktail spots, Taste.

These accomplishments aren’t finish lines. They’re tools to help her open her own wine bar – “a space where everyone who looks different can feel like they belong in that room to appreciate wine for what it is and listen to good music” – and for that, she wants a lot of tools.

“Being a good manager with good leadership is another skill I want to have, which is why I went to Chris Kelling,” Fallows said.

She worked for Elmwood’s co-owner behind the bar after she’d already started at Chandler Hill Vineyards.

Along with running the tasting room at Chandler Hill, Fallows manages its wine club, is responsible for a kegged cocktails program, got seriously involved with the recent Perennial Artisan Ales partnership – hence the beer server certification – and trains staff on beer and wine.

But it’s not just Fallows’ work ethic that makes her one to watch. There are a lot of high-powered sommeliers out there who know how to hustle.

Fallows has the quality of good service that feels more like a personality than a skill. She is poised – exceedingly professional – without ever sacrificing her natural warmth and candor.

“It makes me really happy to see other people happy,” she said. “It’s not about pushing my inventory. It’s not about selling a baller bottle of wine. It’s all about finding the quickest way to get something on the table for people so they can start making memories.”

When she opens her dream wine bar – and she will – we will be the first ones in the door. – H.H.H. Chandler Hill Vineyards 596 Defiance Road, Defiance, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com

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AGE: 29 S O U S C H E F, V I C I A

WHY WATCH HER: SHE’S THE SPARK PLUG IN THE VICIA ENGINE.

LOVE AND FOOD HAVE TAKEN Jane Sacro-Chatham around the world, from her childhood in the Philippines to travels in Ireland, Costa Rica and Vietnam, and now to Vicia in the Central West End. Sacro-Chatham’s love for cooking was first sparked at her mother’s karinderya, a roadside food stall popular in Manila. When she married and moved to St. Louis 10 years ago, she enrolled at St. Louis Community College to improve her English and perfect the culinary skills she picked up working with her mom.

While other young chefs hop from restaurant to restaurant, Sacro-Chatham has worked

JANE S C

at just two other places, Robust and Reeds American Table, since moving to St. Louis. She has found her groove at Vicia, where she’s been since its 2017 opening.

“She’s the spark plug of the kitchen,” said co-owner and chef Michael Gallina. “She’s got so much good, positive energy. She’s an incredible leader.”

Sacro-Chatham worked her way from line cook to sous chef, now responsible for everything from butchering the week’s whole hog to ordering and inventory.

Though she’s not one to self-aggrandize, restaurateurs she’s never worked with know of her. She’s

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recognized industry-wide as a singular talent.

“She’s an extremely integral part in our restaurant and how successful we’ve been,” Gallina said. “We wouldn’t be where we’re at without Jane.”

But she’s more than just a workhorse. Sacro-Chatham and her husband are frequent flyers, taking any opportunity to explore new cultures. “Whenever I cook something [from a] different cuisine, I’m learning. I just keep soaking [up] different countries,” she said. They’ve talked about someday moving to Spain, where she could envision buying an apartment and living above her own small restaurant.

Her creativity and proficiency have already led to some big opportunities.

Sacro-Chatham sold out a 2019 pop-up at Vicia, where Gallina gave her the patio to prepare and present Filipino fare her way. She brought her own spit to roast a pig, covered the table in banana leaves and served a kamayan, or family-style, meal.

“It’s insanity – that, ‘I’m giving you half of my restaurant to cook whatever you want,’” she said. “I’m a shy person. I don’t really like attention so much, but I like to do big things.” – C.K. Vicia 4260 Duncan Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com

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ACROHATHAM January 2020

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ALEX

WHY WATCH HIM: FROM FAST CASUAL TO FINE DINING, HE HUSTLES ALL DAY.

SALKOWSKI

AGE: 28

worlds. He is head baker at Balkan Treat Box by day, helping chef and co-owner Loryn Nalic shape those trademark pide flatbreads, and saute cook at James Beard Award-winning Sidney Street Cafe by night.

“He’s the one people come to with questions in the kitchen,” said Sidney Street chef de cuisine Robert Zugmaier. “He’s also an excellent cook. I’m interested to see what he does.”

HEAD BAKER, BALKAN TREAT BOX; SAUTE COOK, SIDNEY STREET CAFE

We’ve been watching what he can do at competitions like the 2019 Chef Battle Royale at Taste of St. Louis, where he represented Sidney Street, and events like the Chefs Helping Chefs dinner at Quincy Street Bistro and the Young Blood Dinner Series at Good Fortune during the past couple years.

Working two jobs, he wants to continue to hone his skills collaborating on pop-ups and dinners with other cooks and has already built up a personal brand, Off Beet, documenting his myriad culinary interests on social media.

“He’s probably one of the most dedicated, hardworking, loyal, talented people I’ve encountered,” Nalic said. “He lives and breathes this industry. And he works. A lot.” – M.S.

UNLIKE SO MANY up-andcomers jockeying for a place on the fast track to culinary success, Alex Salkowski takes the long view. He has no problem paying dues.

As he explained, “I’m still learning.”

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His quest for knowledge took him from the dish pit at age 15 to graduating from St. Louis Community College at Forest Park with degrees in culinary arts and baking and pastry. It’s landed him at places like

Three Sixty, The Restaurant (now Boundary) and Basso.

In an effort to pack in all the experience he can, Salkowski now works simultaneously in both the fast-casual and fine-dining

Balkan Treat Box 8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com Sidney Street Cafe 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com January 2020

BAILEY AGE: 30

SERVICE MANAGER AND BEVERAGE DIRECTOR, FARMHAUS

WHY WATCH HER: SHE’S A WINE / COCKTAIL / SERVICE TRIPLE THREAT.

SCHUCHMANN VINO VIRTUOSO It can take at least two years of study to pass the certified sommelier exam. Schuchmann did it in six months, then joined the all-star somm team at now-shuttered Reeds American Table.

“She brought a lot to the table,” said certified sommelier Alisha Blackwell Calvert (now at Elaia). “She makes sure you get the right wine to make your meal special.” Like the time guests were out to celebrate and ordered a bottle that wasn’t quite what they were looking for.

“She went and grabbed something else that was January 2020

really cool, and they loved it. She went out of her way to make sure the guests were happy and satisfied.

Whenever they came back, they asked for Bailey.”

COCKTAIL CRUSHER At Farmhaus, Schuchmann translates chef-owner Kevin Willmann’s philosophy from the kitchen to the shaker.

“Her impact on the cocktail program was immediate,” Willmann said. “She balances the fundamentals with spontaneity.”

When Forest & Meadow Herbal Shop and Clinic opened near Farmhaus,

Willmann brought back a rose hip shrub and lemon bitters. Schuchmann mixed them with cognac and local honey in a cozy hot toddy. “It was dynamic,” Willmann said. “It’s very much what we do. I go to farms and bring things back and say, ‘What are we going to do with this?’ She’s not frustrated by that – she’s excited by new ingredients.”

Hospitality is about reading guests and being empathetic to their needs.”

HOSPITALITY HERO “Hospitality is tricky,” Schuchmann said.

“Corporate [restaurants] have a formula, and it becomes very rule-oriented and rigorous; it takes away the soul of hospitality.

Her expertise, creativity and hospitality have us all asking for Bailey. – K.S.

Celebrating a birthday at Farmhaus? Your dessert is likely to include a can of Busch – unless Schuchmann has noticed you haven’t ordered alcohol or have said you don’t like beer. Then you’re likely to get a piece of cake instead.

Farmhaus 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

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AGE: 28 COOK, LOUIE

WHY WATCH HIM: HE SPINS WHEAT INTO GOLD.

MICHAEL “NO

MCMA

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January 2020

WHEN YOU’RE GOOD AT SOMETHING, people start to see you as synonymous with that thing.

For Michael McManus, it’s making pasta. If you ask for Mike, industry people might not know who you’re talking about – Noodles is what he goes by. It’s a bit snappier than calling him WoodFired Pizza.

ODLES”

NUS January 2020

Growing up in Florissant with parents who worked at the Pillsbury factory, Noodles was constantly surrounded by flours and baked goods. While in culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu, he hung out at Taste constantly, studying its chefs the way a young quarterback obsessively watches game tapes. After graduating in 2013, he showed up at the recently opened Pastaria in full chef ’s attire, looking for work. Owner Gerard Craft happened to be standing at the host booth.

Minutes later, Noodles was led into the kitchen where he met Brian Moxey (now Sardella executive chef ) and Adam Altnether (now Elmwood chef and coowner).

“You a hard worker?”

Altnether asked. “Yes, chef,” Noodles replied. Before long, he was promoted to dough manager, in charge of overseeing all pasta, pizza and bread operations for Pastaria. “It was daunting, man,” Noodles

said, reflecting on his days carrying 100-pound bags of flour and delicate pasta racks through the restaurant’s crowded dining room.

After taking a break to work on a farm in California, Noodles returned to Taste, hoping to learn from executive chef Matt Daughaday. “Dude’s a G with it,” Noodles said. He ended up working at Taste for two-and-a-half years, ending as sous chef for his last six months. Then, he ate at Louie.

“The vibes were right,” Noodles said. He made the jump in the summer of 2018, learning every station within his first month.

The work was intense but fulfilling. “You have to be about it,” he said. “You have to perform every night.”

Now, the athletic and buoyant Noodles slings pizza there, with the secondary job of acting as foil to Louie’s ultra-focused owner, Matt McGuire.

“I like working with him more than almost anyone,” McGuire said. “We have fun every night. As long as there’s some hip-hop going, he’s on it.” Five nights a week, smiling and probably grooving to something, Noodles is definitely on it.

– A.R. Louie 706 Demun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

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WHY WATCH HIM: HE’S GOING TO REACH RAMEN’S POTENTIAL.

STEVEN

“I DON’T THINK RAMEN is where it can be in St. Louis or in America,” Steven Pursley said. “American ramen has great potential, but we have to get the fundamentals down.”

PU

Who is Pursley to make these kinds of claims? Well, to start, he’s spent about half his life living in Japan – about a decade in Okinawa in his youth, and, later, three years of intensive cooking and training in ramen shops.

Moving back to Japan in 2014 after studying political science at the University of Missouri–St. Louis, Pursley worked in four restaurants, learning the components and ratios necessary for a perfect bowl of ramen. Though he’s made the whole gamut, the last (and most intense) place he worked focused on two kinds of ramen: tsukemen, a soba-based ramen where the noodles come on the side, and abura soba, a brothless, pasta-like ramen bathed in aromatic oils. There, he made 200 to 400 bowls a day.

Most industry professionals would say tickets. “I count by bowls,” Pursley said.

When he returned to St. Louis, he started hosting pop-ups out of his apartment under the name Ramen x Rui. At first, he was selling around 20 bowls a night, then up to 40 or 50. He scored a gig in the kitchen

LINE COOK, INDO

AGE: 29

at Indo working for James Beard semifinalist Nick Bognar a few weeks after the restaurant opened. “I didn’t want to just work in any kitchen,” Pursley said.

Now, Pursley is doing Ramen x Rui pop-ups at

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Indo once a month, dishing out over 90 bowls per dinner. The goal is to open his own shop in 2020. He is methodical in his planning.

“We were stoked that anyone was doing anything real with ramen – that he

was going after authenticity,” Bognar said. “I think it will be inherently successful.” So do we. – A.R. Indo 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com Facebook: Ramen by Rui

January 2020

RSLEY

January 2020

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

JANUARY

BY BRENN A SUL L IVA N

SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS Clayton Restaurant Week

The Frosted Mug Ride

Modern Soul Food Dinner

Jan. 11 – 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Perennial Artisan Ales, 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 217.848.0373, Facebook: The “Frosted Mug” Ride Sport your winter layers as St. Louis Brewery Ride offers this breathtaking 27-mile round trip. Ride from Perennial Artisan Ales to Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. in The Grove followed by a jaunt through Forest Park to Road Crew Coffee & Cycles. End the trip back at Perennial for brews and the full menu, which includes items like cheese curds, soft pretzels, deviled eggs and more.

Jan. 15 – 7 to 9:30 p.m., A.casa, 3723 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.353.3986, Facebook: Elevated | Modern Soul Food Dinner Series with Chef Tai Davis Chef Tai Davis of Alchemy Bakery prepares a five-course menu featuring his takes on modern soul food in this first dinner of a series.

Enjoy courses like grilled prawn with corn creme, Creole butter and Calabrian chilies, yam bisque with puffed rice and peanuts and more. Drink pairings are available for an extra charge. Tickets available online.

Schlafly Cabin Fever

Café Osage Harvest Dinner Series

Jan. 11 – noon to 4 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com Don your scarves and mittens for Schlafly’s annual Cabin Fever. Sample over 40 of Schlafly’s beers, along with the new Boomerang mead spritzers, and nibble on snacks for purchase like chorizo nachos, pretzel sticks and sticky toffee pudding.

Warm up around one of the bonfires while jamming to live Irish-inspired music by Falling Fences. Tickets available online.

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Jan. 16 and 17 – 6:30 to 10:30 p.m., Café Osage, 4605 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868, Facebook: Café Osage Harvest Dinner Series Be transported to a mountainside as Café Osage offers two nights of Alpine-inspired cuisine. Begin with a specialty crafted cocktail and a round of appetizers before the chefs present a to-be-determined fourcourse menu centered on regional wines and cheese. Tickets available online.

Frosty Brewfest & Spirits Jan. 25 – noon to 4 p.m., Crown Valley Winery, 23589 State Hwy. WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.756.9463, crownvalleywinery.com In its eighth year, this event showcases wares from regional breweries and distilleries like Old Bakery Beer Co., Charleville Brewing Co., Minglewood Brewery, Augusta Brew Haus and more. There’s also live music from Scottie Kemp, a heated patio and fire pits.

Tickets, which include a souvenir tasting glass, are available online.

Jan. 13 to 19 – participating restaurants, Clayton, claytonrestaurantweek.com Head to an old favorite or try something new as 21 restaurants participate in Clayton Restaurant Week. For $25 or $35, enjoy special three-course dinner options from restaurants like The Bao, 801 Fish, C.J. Muggs, Herbie’s, Cantina Laredo, Pastaria and Peel Wood Fired Pizza, then add a donation to Operation Food Search after your meal. A list of participants is available online. Reservations encouraged.

Maplewood Sweet Tooth Tour Jan. 25 – noon to 5 p.m., downtown Maplewood, 314.646.3607, Facebook: Maplewood Sweet Tooth Tour Make your way through historic downtown Maplewood on a self-guided tour as local businesses show off their unique baking abilities. Enjoy samples of sweets like peanut butter blondies and waffles and ice cream from 15 local restaurants, including Traveling Tea, Foundation Grounds and Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream. Alcohol and others beverages are available for purchase. Tickets available online.

January 2020

January 2020

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

SPORTSMAN’S PARK

BY M AT T S O R R E L L

With its sports memorabilia and abundance of TVs, Sportsman’s Park is a fine place to catch a game, but this longtime Ladue favorite is more than a sports bar. Nestled in the St. Louis suburbs, Sportsman’s offers both a respite from the white tablecloth world and a glimpse into the past.

“It’s kind of like a time capsule,” said general manager Andrew Kulaszewski.

“It’s a comfortable memory of what bars and restaurants used to be.”

Take away the Wi-Fi, Kulaszewski said, and the Sportsman’s Park experience today isn’t much different than when the current owner, Jim Probstein’s dad, Norm Probstein, opened it as Jackie’s Place with business partner (and NFL Hall of Famer) Jackie Smith in 1974.

Smith left in 1978, and the restaurant was renamed for the former home of St. Louis Cardinals and St. Louis Browns a couple years later.

Over the years, the restaurant has become a family affair for many diners who return with their children and grandchildren for a Sportsman’s Burger or a Ricky’s Chicken Sandwich.

“It’s no-nonsense and familiar,” Kulaszewski said. Multiple generations of employees have passed through the doors as well – Kulaszewski said there’s currently a mother and daughter team working the floor.

9901 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.991.3381, sportsmansparkladue.com PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

the patty melt at sportsman's park

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

“This guy comes into the wine shop I was working at in New York and essentially grifted me. He

hands me a hundred and some 20s, and next thing you know, the hundred is gone and the 20s ended up being fake. My manager chased him down – I think it was Wall Street – and tackled him, and the guy started screaming, but my manager got that hundred back. It was quite possibly one of the funniest things I’ve ever seen.”

“Farmhaus was my first real fine dining job. It was

kind of amazing to be able to land there when I got back from New York. My ex-husband and I were very into fine dining. For me it was always a matter of, ‘Food is love. Service is love.’

You want to feel comfortable and at home, and we got that at fine dining restaurants.”

CAR M EN ESTR ADA As the second oldest in a family of five children, service is deeply ingrained in Carmen Estrada. “I grew up essentially taking care of people, and that’s what inspired that sense of hospitality in me,” she said. Until recently, Estrada was known for developing the beverage program and working as a manager and sommelier at Farmhaus. Now, the accomplished sommelier is general manager at Balkan Treat Box in Webster Groves. Here’s why this Texas native made the move from fine dining to fast casual. – Lauren Healey

“My real name is Margarita, but I didn’t know until fifth grade.

When I was a baby, my Uncle Carmen was the only person I would not cry with, so they started calling me ‘Little Carmen.’ The little fell off somewhere, but Carmen stayed. Anyway, when the teacher asked if there was any name that hadn’t been called, I raised my hand, and that’s when we figured it out. ... I tried to go

by Margarita when I was in New York, but I would never answer to it. Maybe I shouldn’t try to change my name in my 30s.”

“My first job was as a carhop at Sonic in the ’90s. I was riding around on

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skates; it was hilarious. … I did the admin thing for a while and even worked for a massage school, but I started feeling burned out and was trying to think, ‘What do I do next?’ I had always had a passion for food and wine.”

“I packed my bags and moved to New York City

with my now ex-husband for a couple years so I could take intensive sommelier training at the International Culinary Center. It’s basically a crash course in wine. Four months, 300 wines – that’s a lot of crying. I was really stressed out because I had just made this huge career move and wasn’t sure if I had done the right thing.”

“I loved working in fine dining, but it was taxing.

I could only do those late nights for so long. At Balkan, we’re only open for lunch, so that helps with my work-life balance. … We will probably be launching a liquor program in January or February. I envision having some really fun, unique wines on the list.”

“If it’s busy, sometimes we have to ask people to leave to make room for the

next guests. It takes a lot of tact and a certain personality – a lot of finesse.”

“The local restaurant scene has really evolved.

Back in the day, fast-casual was OK but never amazing.

There are a lot more fast-casual restaurants that have elevated their food with more freshfocused and chef-driven cuisine.

You don’t have to get dressed up or spend a lot to have a really great meal.”

January 2020

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

balkan treat box, 8103 big bend blvd., webster groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

January 2020

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