January 2016

O N E S

T O

WA T C H

M U S T - T R Y

BEER HOTSPOT

NEW RESTAURANTS

M A RY L A N D H EI G H T S

GIN & JUICE

P. 46

P. 29

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P. 11 ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

January 2016

SCALLOPS ON

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

BEGINNER'S GUIDE T O

O Y S T E R S P. 41 FREE, JANUARY 2016

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J A N U A R Y 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 1 What's your go-to warming winter drink?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR PROOFREADERS PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS I love Irish coffee with a dash of Kahlua in the winter.

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A Manhattan. Classic.

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Right now I really like a Moscow mule.

Catherine Klene You get hit with Kristin Schultz warmth twice - first Rebecca Koenig the vodka and then the ginger beer.

Emily Lowery, Kristin Schultz Michelle Volansky Dustin Bryson, Jonathan Gayman, Elizabeth Maxson, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Kara Flaherty, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Kathleen Adams, Grace Bueckendorf

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

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Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 January 2016

contents JANUARY 2016

editors' picks

26

VEGETIZE IT Cassoulet

7

by kellie hynes

EAT THIS Paneer Makhani at House of India

29

MAKE THIS Gin and juice scallops en papillote

8

FIXATIONS

by dee ryan

Here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now

by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and kristin schultz

last course 44

STUFF TO DO

11

by kristin schultz

HIT LIST 6 new restaurants to try this month

by heather hughes, catherine klene and kristin schultz

reviews 15

NEW AND NOTABLE Fleur de Lilies

46

WHAT I DO Ryan and Lindsay Sherring of Six Mile Bridge Beer

by catherine klene

Features

by michael renner

30

18

Food and drink pros with promise

LUNCH RUSH Russell's on Macklind

by hilary hitchcock

ONES TO WATCH by heather hughes, kellie hynes, catherine klene, michael renner and kristin schultz

41

21

NIGHTLIFE Tick Tock Tavern

by matt berkley

SHUCKED A beginner's guide to oysters

by kristin schultz

dine & drink 23

A SEAT AT THE BAR PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and ted and jamie kilgore 25

ELIXIR Drink like Dionysus

COVER DETAILS

signature shrimp étouffée at fleur de lilies, p. 15

Ones to Watch Meet the Sauce Ones to Watch class of 2016 on p. 30. Clockwise from top left: Ari Ellis, Ashley Shelton, Jeffrey Moll, Matt Osmoe, Tim Wiggins, J.T. Gelineau.

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

by kara flaherty January 2016

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

The PANEER MAKHANI at HOUSE OF INDIA has rounded flavor and deep heat. Cubes of paneer, a mild fresh cheese, swim in a silky tomato, onion and cream sauce flecked with spices like garam masala, turmeric, cumin and coriander. Sop up every bite with an order of hot, freshly baked naan that comes slightly charred with a glossy sheen PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

of butter. This fragrant dish warms you from within.

HOUSE OF INDIA, 8501 DELMAR BLVD., UNIVERSITY CITY, 314.567.6850, HOISTL.COM

January 2016

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Fixations From secret stashes of coffee to über creamy cheese, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

Goshen Coffee’s Banko Gotiti Edwardsville roaster Goshen Coffee is learning some new tricks with its terroirdriven Secret Stash series. Options rotate; look for our pick, the Banko Gotiti, an Ethiopian light roast with cherry and dark chocolate notes. $13 for 8 ounces.

Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

Clementine’s coconut chocolate fudge Clementine’s ice creams are all luxurious, but the richest might be the deceptively vegan Coconut Chocolate Fudge, made with Patric chocolate and creamy coconut milk. $15 per pint. Clementine’s Creamery, 1637 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.858.6100, clementinescreamery.com

Maya Kaimal Naan Chips Step aside, pita. We can’t stop dipping sturdy-yet-flaky rosemary Maya Kaimal Naan Chips in everything from hummus to spinach dip. $4. Lucky’s Market, 15830 Fountain Plaza Drive, Ellisville, 636.220.1223, luckysmarket.com

Tender Whether you’re married or on the market, start swiping with Tender. This free app lets you flip quickly through recipes by course, ingredient or dietary restriction, swiping left to dismiss and right to save. Free.

Available for Apple and Android devices

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Absinthe Libertine 72 Many cocktails call for just a dash, wash or rinse of absinthe, but a whole bottle can really set you back. The 50-milliliter bottle of Absinthe Libertine 72 makes it affordable to up your home bar game. $12. Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, vomfassusa.com

Trillium Cheese Tulip Tree Creamery’s triple cream Trillium cheese melts on your tongue with slightly funky, lactic notes similar to Camembert. $16 for 8 ounces. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

Hartwood Hartwood: Bright, Wild Flavors of the Yucatán won our hearts and stomachs with big, beautiful pictures and recipes that transport you to the coast of Tulum, Mexico with every delicious bite. $40. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

Foodie Alphabet Frame a print of local illustrator Vidhya Nagarajan’s Foodie Alphabet to brighten your kitchen or teach wee chefs their ABCs from anchovies to zucchini blossoms. $30 to $73. Society6.com/ vidhyanagarajan

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hit list

6 new restaurants to try this month

For more on Six Mile Bridge Beer, see p. 46.

mary's little lamb from frankly sausages

FRANKLY SAUSAGES

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Frankly Sausages hit the road this fall and promptly parked it Thursday through Saturday at Six Mile Bridge Beer in Maryland Heights. Owners Bill and Jamie Cawthon serve hand-made sausages to brewery-goers, and there’s no waiting in line. Just grab a table in the tasting room, place your order and artisan sausages and fries are delivered inside. Don’t miss the Six Mile Bridge Session IPA brat, topped with sauerkraut and coarse ground mustard, or the rotating special: chile verde pork sausage with avocado and tomatillo relish, queso fresco, cilantro and lime. All the sausages come nestled in La Bonne Bouchée baguettes. Share (if you must) a side of the hand-cut fries: russet potatoes brined and double-fried with a house-made dipping sauce like the creamy buttermilk ranch.

11841 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, franklysausages.com

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The newest (and busiest, judging from the lines that form around 10:30 a.m.) fried chicken shack in the St. Louis-area came to Maplewood via Memphis. Order two- or threepiece plates of crisp, slightly spicy chicken or half a bird. All plates come with sides of baked beans, creamy cole slaw and a slice of white bread. While you wait for your bird, start with tangy fried green tomatoes or poppable fried okra.

For dessert, indulge in the sweet satisfaction of chocolate chess pie.

GUS’S WORLDFAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN

sheesh restaurant

COPPER PIG

Vince Valenza opened Melo’s Pizzeria in a renovated garage behind his Blues City Deli in Benton Park with the help of his son, self-taught pizzaiolo Joe Valenza. Joe did Dad proud with a tight menu of 12-inch Americanized Neapolitan-style pizzas and named the spicy Veets pizza (which features fontina, sausage and pepperoni) after his father. And don’t miss the salty, fragrant Angelina pizza (named for Joe Valenza’s great-grandmother), which includes green onion, Grana Padano and Romano cheese and optional whole anchovy fillets. All pies are baked in a wood-fired oven, resulting in crisp, chewy house-made crust. Order at the counter, then dig in at the standing bar or grab your pizza and take a seat inside Blues City’s dining room.

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

MELO'S PIZZERIA

2438 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.4489, Facebook: Melo’s Pizzeria January 2016

Copper Pig is serving up gastropub fair with Asian influences on Macklind Avenue in Southampton. Grab a seat at the copper-topped bar and order a refreshing, gin-based Socialite cocktail. Start your meal with Copper Pig’s duck confit poutine featuring crispy fries, piping hot gravy and cheese curds. Then check out the Three Little Pigs sandwich, which features bacon, ham and a panko-breaded pork cutlet, stacked high with brie, hot pepper jelly and an egg on lapinja, a chewy Bosnian bread. Larger plates include a bibimbap bowl of tender bulgogi beef, sweet Chinese sausage, pickled carrot and daikon, kimchi, bean sprouts and a sunny egg rest atop a bed of garlic rice.

4611 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, 314.499.7166, copperpigstl.com

Kebabs are king at Sheesh on South Grand Boulevard. Don’t miss the Adana kebab (heavily spiced, tender ground lamb served over fragrant rice) or the Iskender kebab (thinly shaved lamb served atop bite-sized pieces of pita and covered with tomato sauce). Start with a bowl of spicy, tomato-based Ezogelin Soup or a sharable side of kibbe, two football-shaped balls of bulgur stuffed with ground beef and walnuts and fried. And be sure to save room for dessert: The flaky pistachio baklava pairs well with a strong cup of Turkish coffee.

SHEESH RESTAURANT

3226 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.833.4321, sheeshrestaurant.com

queso fundido macaroni and cheese at yo! salsa

bibimbap bowl at copper pig

7434 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9899, gusfriedchicken.com

Firmly planted in downtown Wentzville, the brick-andmortar expansion of Yo! Salsa food truck welcomes diners craving big flavor at truck prices. Build your own tacos or salad and choose from 10 proteins such as chorizo and fried sweet potato or the achiote-grilled mahimahi, which is well spiced without searing your taste buds.

Larger entrees are amply portioned dishes developed and honed on the truck. Try the shrimp and creamy poblano grits featuring large Gulf shrimp, bell peppers and spicy chorizo. While you nosh, sip a topshelf, house-made margarita at a pocket-pleasing $7.

YO! SALSA

2 W. Pearce Blvd., Wentzville, 636.856.8444, yolosmex.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

creole seafood boil at fleur de lilies

new and notable Fleur de lilies

A

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

t Fleur de Lilies, the new Creole restaurant in Soulard, the shrimp étouffée arrives savory and fragrant.

At Fleur de Lilies, the new Korean restaurant, the kalbi entree arrives sizzling hot in a cast-iron skillet. At Fleur de Lilies, the new sushi place, the colorful Geisha’s Kiss roll is as appetizing as it is visually appealing.

new and notable FLEUR DE LILIES p. 15 / lunch rush RUSSELL'S ON MACKLIND p. 18 / nightlife TICK TOCK TAVERN p. 21 January 2016

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reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

Kim’s Korean background and experience as a sushi chef (She also owns BBC Asian Cafe & Bar.) rounds out the menu with that skillet of kalbi: beef short ribs cut lengthwise across the bones and marinated in a crave-worthy, sweetsavory sauce. A layer of caramelized onions covers the bottom, but it’s still a pan of meat, so maybe order a side of seasonal vegetables, if only to add a splash of color.

side. But despite their similar texture, the amount of chewing and sucking needed to extract a meager amount of meat from the bony legs far surpasses what’s required for chicken wings. The gyoza – six little tasty house-made dumplings filled with chicken and kimchi – had a nice savory seasoning and mild flavor, but I prefer these steamed rather than deepfried; Fleur de Lilies’ fried version was just too dry.

The separate sushi menu may seem like an afterthought, along the lines of the annoying pause between “guys … and gals” in those local frozen custard commercials: “Hey, we serve Creole, Korean … and sushi.” While there’s nothing spectacular here, I like having the option of nigiri and rolls as a snack or light meal, like the Geisha’s Kiss roll, stuffed with spicy tuna, shrimp tempura, avocado and topped with salmon, tuna, tobiko and eel sauce.

Like the rest of the menu, desserts are more Southern than Seoul – notably the bread pudding served with cream cheese ice cream, both house-made and both worth saving room for.

The Creole-Korean fusion Wagyu bulgogi burger at Fleur de Lilies

Donald Trump must wonder what the hell’s going on with all this multiculturalism under one roof. What’s going on is that co-owners Misha Sampson and Alexis Kim (along with chef Michael Gipson, ex of Bar Les Freres), are paying tribute to their respective Southern and Korean roots.

Great-aunt Maybell’s gumbo, to anchor a mostly Southern-influenced menu. The former lives up to its signature billing with plump shrimp in a coppery, redolent sauce consisting of the traditional holy trinity of celery, onion and bell pepper amped up with garlic and just enough heat to warm the lips. The gumbo, chunked up with oysters, crab, shrimp, turkey sausage and chicken, and spiced with file powder, garnered a begrudging nod of approval from a Louisiana-native dining partner.

Sampson, a fourth-generation Creole, uses her family’s recipes, including great Grandma’s shrimp étouffée and

AT A GLANCE Fleur de Lilies

Where 1031 Lynch St., St. Louis, 314.761.3797, fleurdelilies.com

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Don’t Miss Dishes Shrimp étouffée, Waygu bulgogi burger

The restaurant’s moniker promotes Creole-Asian fusion, and its logo features a hybrid of a fleur-de-lis and Asian lily, but except for a couple appetizers (Fried Fusion Spring Rolls and Fusion Peel and Eat) and the Wagyu bulgogi burger, the fusion feels more brand than practice. But what a burger: a patty as rich and delectable as foie gras, suffused with a traditional marinade for bulgogi grilled beef (soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, pepper), griddled, then topped with sesame slaw and sesame oil and served on a pretzel bun.

Other appetizers straddle both cultures.

Lightly breaded and delicately crispy, spindly frog legs seem pretty Southern, especially with a spicy remoulade on the

Vibe Colorful and casual, light and breezy with a decor that captures the spirit of New Orleans without beads and masks.

The corner restaurant sits across from Anheuser Busch Brewery and once housed Gusto’s 314, Sage Urban American Grill and Lynch Street Bistro. It’s a beautiful 6,500-square-foot space distributed over two floors. In the front bar area, three step-up booths make cozy seats for two to sip a classic or signature cocktail, like the FDL Old-Fashioned spiced up with Creole bitters and house-made pecan syrup. Pass through the brick archway into the main dining room where Sampson and Kim lightened the interior with a purple and gold color scheme and blond wood, taking advantage of the natural light streaming through large windows. An impressive contemporary iron switchback staircase leads to an upstairs dining area used for special events and a hidden oasis: the rooftop deck overlooking an inviting brick patio right out of the French Quarter.

As a Creole restaurant, Fleur de Lilies could stand on its own. Indeed, even the decor captures a NOLA vibe without any kitschy Mardi Gras trappings. But by serving three of the hottest cuisines trending in St. Louis (All they’re missing is fried chicken and barbecue.), Sampson and Kim are not only riding the wave, they’re ahead of the curve.

Entree Prices $11 to $32

When Sun. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

Lunch Rush

RUSSELL’S ON MACKLIND

BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY DUSTIN BRYSON

The lunch menu at the recently expanded Russell’s on Macklind consists primarily of sandwiches and wraps with a few salads and rotating soup offerings.

Sandwiches are the way to go – served with Billy Goat chips, at around $10 each, they can be ordered “half-and-half,” allowing diners to pick two different half sandwiches. And don’t miss the sweets – you couldn't really if you tried, since the order line passes cases of baked goods. Desserts are rich and huge, so plan to share. Here’s what to order:

and the mild sweetness of honey, resulting in a delectable whole that far exceeds the sum of its parts. Ordinarily I’m not crazy about sweets with my savories, but the name won me over. Good call, me. This was a gamble that paid off.

The Cuban Grill sandwich I love a Cuban, and this was one of the best I’ve had. The decadent combination of rich ham, pork and melty cheese was cut through by spicy mustard aioli and tart house-made pickles.

The S. S.P. (Smelly, Sticky Pig) sandwich Holy cow (or is it sow?), is this grilled sandwich good. It takes the saltiness of bacon, adds the funkiness of blue cheese

Russell’s on Macklind 5400 Murdoch Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9994, macklind.russellscafe.com

The B.L.A.T. san dwich This bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato stack is too tall to get your mouth around, but no matter. It’s so fresh, you won’t mind.

The tomato tasted straight from a Midwestern garden in August – a near miracle at this time of year.

The Bistr o Grill sandwich With strong competing flavors like pear, goat cheese, orange marmalade and toasted walnuts, this dish could easily become unbalanced, but no one ingredient overwhelms the others.

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flying saucer, this moist coconut treat was outof-this-world: perfectly browned and not too sweet.

chocolate chip cookies

The chocol atedipped m acar oon The size and shape of a

The gooey butter cake The buttery, crumbly shortbread cookie-like crust distinguishes this rendition of the STL classic. Flavor choices rotate regularly; the triple berry is more than worth your while.

The Downside

Finding parking can be a challenge at this neighborhood spot, and lines can be long, but that may change when table service starts this month. On my visit, the macn-cheese, topped with crunchy croutons had mushy noodles and was bland. Stick with those sammies.

January 2016

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nightlife

reviews

Tick Tock Tavern

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DUSTIN BRYSON

High Ball all make an appearance.

The best of the bunch was an original: The Butler Miller cocktail with vodka, lime juice and Chambord. Refreshing, fruity and potent, it’s an ideal old-school house party libation.

Tick Tock Tavern Mixology, barrel-aged 3459 Magnolia and house-infused may Ave., St. Louis, be foreign terms in theticktock.com this throwback joint, but that’s as it should be. If the cocktails fail to please, a dozen or so draft beers are available, including local breweries like Schlafly, Urban Chestnut and The Civil Life. Draft options are supplemented by myriad bottles and cans, popular with the neighborhood crowd. If you’re looking to kick back with a tall can of Stag, Coors, Miller High Life or even a stubby little bottle of Mickeys, this place has a bar stool ready for you. The bar is cash only, but service comes fast with a smile and an occasional $2 bill with your change – another of the bar’s quirks.

Matt Thenhaus of Tick Tock Tavern

T

ick Tock Tavern is easy to miss if you pass by too quickly.

But if you’re in the mood for something outside the norm, this wonderfully kitschy and relaxed corner bar is worth looking for.

The interior looks like Grandpa decided to dress up his 1970s basement with a string of Christmas lights, which dangles from a wood shingle awning behind the bar. So-badthey’re-good knickknacks, felt paintings, vintage ads and two-bit suburban-estate-

January 2016

sale wall hangings decorate the place. It’s dim and cozy; it’s got owls perched on a wood-paneled wall and a sit-down Ms. Pac Man machine. The intense, retrochic vibe works for one simple reason: It doesn’t feel staged. Instead, it feels like home.

The cocktail menu features yesteryear’s corner bar favorites, consisting of about a half-dozen concoctions scribbled on a board behind the bar. A Gin Rickey, rye Manhattan, white wine spritzer and Seagram’s VO

Like the decor, the patrons of Tick Tock are eccentric and laid-back. Expect a fair share of sleeve tattoos, beards and thrift-shop wardrobes. For the most part, this is still a neighborhood spot, one that attracts a casual mishmash of 20- to 40-somethings looking to relax the night away.

A trip next door to Steve’s Hot Dogs is pretty much obligatory, given that a short hallway connects the place, and because it serves some of the best hot dogs in St. Louis. Steve Ewing, owner and member of local band The Urge, has built himself a loyal following of hot dog and sausage enthusiasts. In about the time it takes to finish half a beer, you can have Steve’s Famous Chili-Cheese Dog or an Al Hra-BRATski bratwurst (about $6 each) delivered fresh to your table at Tick Tock. By the time you finish the oversized gourmet Nathan’s hot dog smothered in magical chili, you’ll be ready for another drink, wondering why every bar can’t be as effortlessly good as this.

ORDER IT: Tick Tock Tavern

The refreshing Butler Miller cocktail features vodka, lime juice and Chambord.

Steve’s Famous ChiliCheese Dog makes a great late-night snack.

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dine

& drink Learn more about the couple behind Six Mile Bridge Beer on p. 46.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Are you stuck in a comfort zone of chardonnay and pinot grigio? Make a resolution to stick your corkscrew into something different like a 2012 Wagner-Stempel Weissburgunder Pinot GLENN BARDGETT Blanc. A German cousin to Member of the Missouri Wine French pinot blanc and Italian and Grape Board and wine pinot bianco, the depth of director at Annie Gunn’s this relative will divert you from bland, inexpensive Italian pinot grigio. Coming from the Rheinhessen region in Germany, the wine’s mineral character is reminiscent of Burgundian chardonnays for a much smaller price tag – less than $20 at Lukas Wine & Spirits in Ellisville.

January 2016

As 2016 begins, we want to take a quick look back at two St. Louis breweries that opened in 2015: Standard Brewing Co. and Six Mile CORY AND Bridge Beer. Only 1 KAREN KING mile apart, they make Co-owners at Side Project Maryland Heights – Brewing and The Side also home to the new Project Cellar O’Fallon Brewery – a great spot for brewery hopping. Check out Standard’s Klassisch, a delightful, rich, fruity German-style hefeweizen, and then head to Six Mile Bridge for a balanced and aromatic Session IPA.

This month, we’re enjoying an everything-old-is-new-again spirit called Rock and Rye. Back when people drank in saloons, it was common practice to put rock candy in rye whiskey.

Barkeeps often added citrus, and eventually this beverage TED AND JAMIE became known as a cure for all KILGORE ailments, bottled for “medicinal USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart consumption” and enjoyment. and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House Today Hochstadter’s Slow & Low Rock and Rye blends rye whiskey, honey, dried orange and the herb horehound. Essentially a bottled cocktail, simply pour over ice and enjoy the sweet, rich, lightly citrusy flavor of this historic spirit. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

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DRINK LIKE

D I O NYSUS

WINE

BY K A R A F L A H E R T Y There’s a lot more to Greek wine than retsina, the country’s traditional pine resin-flavored variety. Increasingly popular in U.S. markets, mainlandproduced reds make great alternatives to pinot noir and Rhone blends. Many whites are also perfect for dinner parties, complementing a wide range of flavors and providing a conversation starter, or at least a tongue twister.

Think regionally while pairing: Salads and seafood go well with assyrtiko, the island of Santorini’s structured, acidic, food-friendly white wine. Tzatziki tastes even better when paired with the white malagouzia. Sip a red xinomavro with a bite of black olive tapenade. Fruitforward agiorgitiko is a red light-bodied enough to pair with seafood dishes.

Determined to drink rosé year-round?

Greece has beautiful rosés that range from light Provençal styles made with syrah to the more fruit-forward, fullerbodied agiorgitiko rosés.

Go Greek with these bottles, available around town:

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

2014 Estate Argyros Assyrtiko Farmers train assyrtiko vines to grow in a basket shape to shield the grapes from high heat and strong wind. The ocean spray that helps irrigate the vines adds a touch of salinity to the finished white, which is acidic and citrusy. $26. 33 Wine Shop & Bar, 1913 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.9463, Facebook: 33 Wine

2013 Thymiopoulos Young Vines Xinomavro This red wine starts off edgy and herbal and opens up to a beautiful nose of amber and notes of black olive and fig. It tastes like spiced red fruit and has great tannin structure. $16. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com January 2016

2013 Gai’a Agiorgitiko This beautiful, bright red, fruit-driven wine has plum spice that is stunning alongside roasted meat and game dishes. $26. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345, starrs1.com

2014 Gai’a 14-18H Rosé Agiorgitiko Full of ripe strawberry notes and hints of melon with a big body and lasting

finish, this rosé will definitely stand up through the cold winter. $18. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345, starrs1.com

and raisinated grapes provide a lovely richness. $15. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

2012 Domaine Douloufakis Dafnios Liatiko Coming from the island of Crete, this wine is reminiscent of red Rhone wines – think of a lighter version of Chateâuneuf-du-Pape. Potpourri spices

2010 Samos Nectar Muscat Swap out dessert for this nectar-like dessert wine, caramel in sweetness without a syrupy finish. $26. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

VEGETIZE IT

Cassoulet

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

J

anuary is when I cocoon. My calendar is clear, it’s too bleak to go outside and my jeans no longer fit.

I putter about in an oversized bathrobe until the sun and my waist reappear in the spring. Laid-back January means I can experiment with recipes and ingredients that need a little more time. This month’s project is cassoulet: a rich, slow-simmered French stew made with white beans and, in the traditional version, duck or goose.

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January 2016

Since I skipped the meat, the beans in my vegan cassoulet needed to be on point. I’m the first to grab a convenient can off the shelf, but canned beans can turn mushy when cooked low and slow. Dried beans that are soaked and simmered have a firmer texture, but can become tough.

Fortunately, the fine foodie folks at Cook’s Illustrated have a Goldilocks solution for a texture that’s just right.

Their book, The Science of Good Cooking, recommends brining the dried beans, which is as easy as tossing a few tablespoons of salt into the soaking water. The overnight saltwater bath makes the beans tender on the outside, creamy on the inside and (as a bonus) reduces their cooking time.

I added my brined beans to a stew made from mirepoix (a mixture of carrots, onions and celery), potatoes, herbs and vegetable broth. To keep the stew from looking winter-sky desolate, I added a handful of verdant collard greens. Unlike spinach, fibrous greens like collards can hold up to long cook times. Plus, in the South eating greens during the New Year symbolizes prosperity to come (although that presumably applies to people with the wherewithal to don pants). If you’re not a fan of collard greens, kale works, too.

My stew tasted fine, but it needed a savory je ne sais quoi to replace the meat. I worried that mushrooms and nuts (my usual go-tos) would have their own texture problems. Instead, I took the onions out of the mirepoix and caramelized them. This brought the buttery depth of flavor I was missing. When caramelizing onions, it’s important to remember two things: First, cut the onions uniformly so they caramelize evenly. Second: Wear a plastic shower cap so your hair doesn’t smell like French onion soup.

January 2016

Yes, this recipe requires a fair amount of planning, cook time and, thanks to the shower cap, humility. But you will be rewarded with a vat of healthy, stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that’s as cozy as your bathrobe.

CARAMELIZED ONION CASSOULET 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 3 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. table salt, divided 1 gallon cold water 1 lb. dried great Northern beans, rinsed and picked over 5 Tbsp. canola oil, divided 1½ lbs. yellow onions, cut into ¼-inch slices ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided 5 cups plus ¼ cup vegetable broth, divided 4 sprigs thyme 2 sage leaves 2 fresh bay leaves 3 large celery stalks, ends removed and chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 8 oz. collard greens, stems removed, sliced into ¼-inch strips 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. minced garlic, divided 2 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 lb. baby red potatoes, quartered 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes 1 Companion Bread French baguette ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped • In a large bowl, dissolve 3 tablespoons salt in the water.

Add the beans and soak at room temperature overnight. Drain and rinse the beans well. Set aside.

• In a heavy pan over medium-high heat, warm 3 tablespoons canola oil. Add the onions, ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they become translucent, about 10 minutes.

• Reduce the heat to low and stir frequently, scraping the bottom of the pan 1 to 1½ hours, until the onions are dark brown, viscous and sweet.

• Deglaze the pan by adding ¼ cup vegetable broth and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then remove the onions and any remaining broth. Set aside.

• Make a bouquet garni (herb bundle) by placing the thyme, sage and bay leaves in the middle of a 12-by-12inch square of cheesecloth. Tie the cheesecloth closed with a knot and set aside.

• In a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil. Saute the celery and carrots until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the greens and cook until they are bright green and wilted, approximately 2 minutes.

Add 1 tablespoon garlic and cook another 30 seconds. Using a wooden spoon, coat the vegetables with the tomato paste. Cook until the

paste darkens, about 1 minute.

• Add the remaining 5 cups vegetable broth and deglaze the Dutch oven.

Then add the potatoes, tomatoes, beans, caramelized onions, bouquet garni, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon black pepper.

• Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook until the beans and potatoes are tender, about 1 to 1¼ hours.

• Meanwhile, arrange the oven racks to make space for the Dutch oven, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Place half the baguette in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to make breadcrumbs.

• In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil then add the remaining 2 teaspoons garlic.

Saute 30 seconds, then add the breadcrumbs to the skillet and toast, stirring frequently until golden, about 5 minutes. Remove the breadcrumbs from the heat and stir in the parsley.

• Uncover the Dutch oven and remove and discard the bouquet garni. Spread the breadcrumb mixture evenly over the top of the cassoulet, then place in the oven and bake until the breadcrumbs brown, about 20 minutes.

• Remove the cassoulet from the oven and serve hot with the remaining baguette.

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January 2016

MAKE THIS GIN & JUICE SCALLOPS EN PAPILLOTE ACTIVE TIME: 8 MINUTES

MAKE THIS Is your mind on your money and your money on your mind? Cook with gin and juice, and you’re bound to feel like a rap star. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl toss together 1 cup thinly sliced fennel, ½ cup thinly sliced leeks, ½ cup thinly sliced red onion, 1 cup baby spinach, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon gin, the juice of 2 small oranges, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Fold 4 15-by-15-inch squares of parchment paper in half and cut off the unfolded edges to make half-heart shapes. Unfold the hearts and divide the vegetables evenly on 1 side of each heart, leaving about a 1½-inch border, then top with 2 large sea scallops. Working from the end, tightly fold the edges to seal. Repeat with the remaining parchments. Bake on a sheet pan 13 minutes, then remove from the oven and let rest 2 to 3 minutes before serving. – Dee Ryan

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five. Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.

January 2016

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O N E S

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to

W A T C H

January 2016

Food and drink pros with promise Every year, we seek out rising talent in the local food and beverage scene, scouring the city to discover who will be the next big thing. This year, we found three cerebral barkeeps, along with two powerhouse chefs. And do you know the mushroom man? You should. Meet the 2016 class of Ones to Watch.

J.T. G E L I N E A U OWNER, MUSHROOMS NATURALLY AGE: 31 WHY WATCH HIM: HIS MYCOLOGICAL ENTERPRISE IS MUSHROOMING.

PORTRAITS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Mysterious, fascinating, beautiful and delicious.

That’s how J.T. Gelineau described the all-consuming object of his obsession: the mushroom. A former chef at Bellerive Country Club who grew up digging in dirt and gardening, Gelineau’s fascination with mushrooms comes, well, naturally. Now his business Mushrooms Naturally, which started part time in his small basement, has grown into a 3,000-squarefoot warehouse in O’Fallon, Missouri. “My wife is a very tolerant woman, but she told me to move it someplace else,” Gelineau said.

January 2016

Self-taught in mycology, the biology of mushrooms, Gelineau starts everything from scratch in petri dishes.

Unusual varieties like royal trumpet, hen-of-the-woods, white beech and black poplar line rack after rack of industrial shelving, popping out of bags of mineralenhanced sawdust “soil” like some sci-fi farm from The Day of the Triffids. “I really like growing vegetables, but this is just so much more challenging,” he said. “It appealed to me from the chef ’s point of view of the food and organization.”

As a former chef, he also knows what a high-end kitchen wants, according to one of Gelineau’s clients, Anthony Devoti, chef-owner of Five Bistro. “The stuff that he’s growing is beautiful,” Devoti said. “And with us trying to stay local and hyperlocal, he’s growing those here in St. Louis.” They’re also exceptionally fresh, since Gelineau delivers mushrooms picked and sorted within three days of harvest.

Mushrooms Naturally has grown to be one of the largest local suppliers of gourmet mushrooms to St. Louis restaurants in just three years.

And if mushrooms weren’t enough, Gelineau recently started making flavored sea salts – from roasted shitake to truffle. Yet another reason to keep your eye on the mushroom man.

– Michael Renner Mushroomsnaturally.com Salts available at Marketplace at the Abbey, 10090 Manchester Road, Glendale, 314.965.1400, marketplaceattheabbey.com; Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

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ONES TO

WATCH

Ashley S H E L T O N E X E CU T I V E CHE F, PA S TA R I A A GE : 2 6 W H Y WAT CH HE R : DR E A MS A ND DR E A M Y PA S TA – SHE LT ON M A K E S I T A L L H A P P E N.

On a busy Saturday night, Ashley Shelton and her crew can serve up to 500 people in one shift. Instead of barking commands at her cooks, Shelton motivates them in her own way. “When it gets hard, I start singing. The dishes have their own songs,” she said. “And I hand out candy and Kool-Aid. I like to run a fun line.”

Shelton credited her mother, who passed away when she was only 14, for instilling a love of cooking. Three years later, as a high school junior aiming toward culinary school, Shelton landed a job on the line at the venerable Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield.

“That’s where I learned speed, discipline and how to clean a kitchen. ... I learned from the best,” Shelton said.

Laser focus then propelled her to The Culinary Institute of America, where she first made bucatini all’amatriciana, the traditional Italian entree that would become her calling.

“That dish was so good, it made me want to study Italian food,” Shelton said.

So she did, moving to Florence to earn a Masters in Italian Cuisine from

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the Apicius International Hospitality Institute.

Shelton first met chef Gerard Craft in Italy, while he was on a research trip before opening Pastaria. “He interviewed me over dinner, and it was an awful meal. We joke about it now,” Shelton said, laughing.

Craft hired her as Pastaria’s line cook before the restaurant even opened its doors, and then, in February last year, offered her the executive chef position.

Craft is proud and supportive of Shelton. “Ashley is a rare breed. She is able to lead a massive kitchen with a smile, a sense of humor and with a confidence usually found in much older chefs,” he said. “Ashley is quite simply the best, and I am guessing that this is just the tip of the iceberg.”

We agree. With her cando attitude and passion for Italian cuisine, songs will be sung about Shelton – and her bucatini – for years to come.

– Kellie Hynes Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com

On this month’s Sound Bites, chef Jessie Gilroy, a member of the Ones to Watch class of 2015, and chef Ashley Shelton of this year’s Ones to Watch class join Sauce to discuss their leadership roles in some of St. Louis’ most prestigious kitchens. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, Jan. 8 at noon and 10 p.m.

January 2016

January 2016

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ONES TO

WATCH

Ari E L L I S ARI ELLIS, EXECUTIVE SOUS CHEF, SOUTHERN AGE: 27 WHY WATCH HER: SHE’S THE POWERHOUSE THAT MAKES SOUTHERN RUN.

Scroll through Ari Ellis’ Instagram feed, and along with selfies and snaps of her French bulldog, you’ll see countless shots of long nights in the kitchen, in-process charcuterie and even a few brightly painted pig skulls. There are timelapse videos of her breaking down pounds of produce and sorting through hundreds of chicken pieces, all with

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the bulldoggish tenacity that’s made her second in command at Southern.

“She’s a beast,” said Southern chefowner Rick Lewis. “There’s a lot of things you can teach people as far as cooking, but (you can’t teach) coming in every day and having a good work ethic and good attitude and trying to bring people up around you.”

Just three years ago, an inexperienced Ellis stepped up to the fry station at Quincy Street Bistro, then a failing South City bar and grill. When Lewis took the helm, Ellis got a crash course in whole-animal cooking and house charcuterie. After becoming sous chef, she was immersed in kitchen management 101 with Lewis and chef Chris Tirone. “Everyone is different, so your approach to everyone has to be different,” Ellis said.

Those management skills were put to the test when Ellis made the jump to

Southern. She serves as executive sous chef and Lewis’ right hand, prepping 95 percent of the food that hits the line and managing a crew of fastmoving cooks. “It was instantaneous respect, and you could see them thinking after a couple of weeks, ‘OK, this is why she’s here,’” Lewis said.

That respect has manifested into a loyal team; there has been almost no turnover on the line since Southern opened to wide acclaim and massive crowds last year.

Ellis said. “My big thing is breaking down animals. If I could do that most days of the week, I’d be happy.”

Ellis’ culinary education also draws from national players. She staged at Toro in New York City and roadtripped to Cochon in New Orleans to work with butcher Leighann Smith – now a friend and butchery-loving kindred spirit. Ellis spent much of her time at Quincy Street Bistro tasked with breaking down half hogs. “I was like ‘That’s great because I’m obsessed with this,’”

Tearing into a fluffy biscuit smothered with house-made sausage gravy while Ellis breaks down a hog for future bacon? Add a cup of coffee (and maybe a painted pig skull on the wall) and she might just make us morning people, too. – Catherine Klene

She’d be equally happy with an early morning plate of biscuits and gravy, her go-to meal at home and something she’d consider putting on her own diner-style menu one day. “I would like a place as small as Southern, something real small,” Ellis said. “I love breakfast, and I love waking up super early.”

Southern, 3108 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.531.4668, stlsouthern.com

January 2016

200

Jeffrey M O L L BAR MANAGER, RANDOLFI’S ITALIAN KITCHEN AGE: 33 WHY WATCH HIM: HIS QUIRKY QUEST FOR PERFECTION IN ALL THINGS COCKTAIL SHAPED RANDOLFI'S TOP-NOTCH BAR.

3

The number of recipe variations it usually takes to perfect a cocktail. “The first iteration is called the ‘proximity cocktail’ because it’s rarely the final recipe. I’m painfully neurotic, almost never happy with something I make for the first time.”

6

The number of notebooks filled with cocktail ideas, R&D and recipes – both successful attempts and dramatic failures. “I write down everything: things that worked and things that didn’t. Every time I change something, I write it down.”

The number of cocktails in those notebooks, including drinks that made the menu at Little Country Gentleman, The Good Pie and Randolfi’s, drinks that never saw the light of day and some experimental molecular cocktails, like sous vide Old-Fashioned that “just weren’t practical.”

no. 26

A drink later renamed Left Bound. The port and whiskey cocktail was an early, original creation that saw six incarnations before finding itself. The final version is smoky and sweet, featuring a 10-year tawny port and McCarthy single-malt whiskey.

1:1:1

A balanced ratio. Moll seeks to balance flavor, intensity and nuance in all his drinks.

“It’s important to have just enough – not too much and not too little. Everything that’s in a bottle has its own characteristic. Finding the balance with whatever you’re putting in the glass is what makes a good drink.”

24

The number of amari at Randolfi’s. “I wish people would get into amaro. There are so many good ones out there. Some are sweeter, and some are turbo dry and bitter.

I squeeze it into as many drinks on the menu as I can.”

150

The number of vintage cocktail glasses in his collection. You may even sip from one – Moll rotates some of his finds through the bar at Randolfi’s.

120021

A palindrome, reading the same forward and backward.

So do some of Moll’s cocktails, like the Madam I’m Adam. Call it a quest for balance, an affinity for math or just having fun.

“The more I learn, the more I appreciate everything. It’s exhausting to be cynical. It’s about seeing people enjoy what you’ve done.”

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The years of combined industry experience touting Moll’s dedication and skill.

Planter’s House co-owner Ted Kilgore: “He has a real palate for creating balanced cocktails.”

Randolfi’s chef-owner Mike Randolph: “He is an encyclopedia of knowledge.”

Layla general manager Tony Saputo: “He’s meticulous and calculating.

He isn’t jaded. He works to make drinks with integrity.”

- Kristin Schultz

Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, randolfis.com

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ONES TO

WATCH

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January 2016

Matt O S M O E BAR MANAGER, BLOOD & SAND AGE: 33 WHY WATCH HIM: THIS JACK-OF-ALL-TRADES HAS BECOME THE MASTER OF ONE.

Less than two years ago, Matt Osmoe was working an information technology job, the discipline in which he earned a college degree. Now he heads one of the top-tier bar programs in the city, has won the acclaim of his peers in the U.S. Bartender’s Guild and has earned the right to compete in Bombay Sapphire’s World’s Most Imaginative Bartender contest.

Curious, undaunted by the prospect of failure and a technical perfectionist, Osmoe crafts cocktails via vivid imagination and honed technique.

“I create a scene in my mind.

I’m at a place on the coast of Northern Italy. I’ve been out on a sailboat all day, and now I’m at this little cafe by the sea.

The staff is starting to light the candles. There’s amazing seafood simply prepared, and they hand me a drink and it’s the most perfect drink for that situation, right at that moment. Think about the smells in the air, what the dish tastes like, what it’s going to do to your palate, where you’re at. What are the local spirits? What are the local drinking traditions?

“Slowly piece that together, one by one, until you get a drink, then balance it out to make it really pleasant for people who

January 2016

aren’t in your little fiction and you end up with something really great, usually.”

The resulting cocktail from that Mediterranean dreamscape combined TRU organic gin, La Quintinye vermouth royale (a dry vermouth with a delicate wormwood finish), lemon, simple syrup, wormwood bitters, grapefruit bitters, a touch of sage, a little bit of bay leaf and a cap of bubbly. “It would have gone well with my imaginary fish. It was tasty.”

Even imaginary pairings must be properly prepared. Osmoe keeps rigorous technical standards for measurement, temperature and rate of dissolution. His quest for precision led him to add a pyrometer, the device usually used to measure the temperature of racecar tires, to his bar’s equipment list. Too hot, and a drink tastes too boozy. Too cold and the flavors become muted.

Want in on this creative, technical golden mean? Sidle up to the bar with an open mind and be precise about what you like. Then sit back, because Matt Osmoe is one to watch.

– Kristin Schultz Blood & Sand, 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com

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ONES TO

WATCH

Tim W I G G I N S BEVERAGE DIRECTOR, RETREAT GASTROPUB AGE: 24 WHY WATCH HIM: THREE YEARS AFTER HIS 21 S T BIRTHDAY, HE’S SHAKING UP SOME OF THE BEST COCKTAILS IN TOWN.

Four years ago, Tim Wiggins was learning to like beer in New Zealand.

Now he is beverage director of Retreat Gastropub, which he helped open in the Central West End. Here, Wiggins’ trajectory to greatness:

2012 Wiggins took a job as food runner at Baileys’ Range because he was broke after traveling in New Zealand for three months. Running food and scooping ice cream at Baileys’ Range gave him a serious appreciation for starting at the bottom.

“Everyone (in a restaurant) should know how to do every job,” he said. His hard work paid off, and Wiggins transitioned to serving, then bartending.

2013 Wiggins accepted an offer to serve as front of house manager at Dave Bailey’s new concept, Small Batch.

“I’ve always loved leadership roles and coaching,” Wiggins said. “But this was kind of intimidating. I was the youngest person in the building, and I was in charge of all these people

who had been serving and bartending forever.”

2014 Wiggins rose to the occasion, eventually moving to bar manager. There, he mastered Small Batch’s 100-plus bottle whiskey menu, armed with a library of recommended cocktail books. “When someone asks a question, I want to be the one who has the answer – and the surplus information,” Wiggins said.

With book smarts, research trips to pick the brains of pros in places like San Francisco’s Trick Dog and a culinary perspective on cocktails, Wiggins helped develop a menu wiser than his years.

2015 Retreat owner Travis Howard brought Wiggins on board to help open the restaurant.

There, Wiggins developed a bar program filled with housemade tinctures, shrubs and innovative cocktail recipes.

Along with incredible product knowledge and creativity, Howard said Wiggins brings a sense of hospitality that goes beyond customer service. He is committed to developing a positive culture for the entire restaurant; that means hiring the right people and taking care of his staff, as only a manager who’s worked every job can.

2016 and beyond “I have this job and I want to do it really well and not get caught up in what exactly is next,” Wiggins said. But he aims to open his own place one day – and he’s got a lot of ideas. “I’m still years away from that, but I feel like I’m on the right track.”

– Heather Hughes

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Retreat Gastropub, 2 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497, retreatgastropub.com January 2016

January 2016

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January 2016

shucked A B EG I N N E R' S GU I DE TO OYST E R S

BY K R I ST I N S C H U LTZ | PH OTOS BY JO NAT H A N G AY M A N

January 2016

Gooseberry oysters at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41

John Messbarger, chef de cuisine, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

Jo n a t h a n Sw i f t w a s r i g h t : I t w a s a b o l d m a n w h o f i rs t a t e a n o y s t e r. B u t n o w t h e s e f r u i t s d e m e r a re e n j o ye d eve r y w h e re f ro m s o p h i s t i c a t e d Pa r i s i a n c a fe s t o r i c k e t y f ro n t p o rc h e s o n A p a l a c h i c o l a B a y a n d eve n l a n d l o c k e d S t . Lo u i s re s t au ra n t s .

He re’s h o w t o ex p l o re t h e w o r l d of ra w o y s t e rs w i t h o u t fe a r (o r a trip to a coast).

What you need to know Thanks to improvements in aquaculture (agriculture’s underwater cousin), oysters can be safely consumed any time of year.

Improved transportation methods allow St. Louisians to slurp down fresh mollusks harvested less than 24 hours before they're served.

The same way mineral composition of soil affects the flavor profile of wine grapes (terroir), the makeup of inlet and bay soil, water salinity and diet all affect the flavor of oysters. It’s called merroir.

Oysters from the East Coast and the Gulf of Mexico tend to be larger and have a more intense, briny flavor. Bivalves from the West Coast are smaller and sweeter.

Traditional accompaniments include lemon juice, cocktail sauce, horseradish and mignonette, a shallot-black pepper-vinegar sauce.

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Pro tips for first-timers If you’ve tried oysters and had a bad experience, try them again. Bad oysters are mushy and taste like bad ocean water. If the quality is there, the flavor takes care of itself.

– John Messbarger, chef de cuisine, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. Try a West Coast variety to start because they are more mild, creamier and smaller. – John O’Brien, chef-owner, Three Flags Tavern Texture-wary newbies can try the oyster on a saltine cracker. – Neill Costello, partner, West End Grill & Pub Choose an oyster based on your palate. First-timers may want to stay away from the briny ones and try a smaller size. You get the full experience without chewing. – Justin Johnson, chef de cuisine, DeMun Oyster Bar

January 2016

Where you need to go

1

PEACEMAKER LOBSTER & CRAB CO.

2

The raw bar at Peacemaker primarily stocks East Coast oysters, and the kitchen makes its own Asian-inspired, slightly spicy mignonette that goes well with briny bivalves. 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com

T H R E E F L A G S TAV E R N Try both East and West Coast oysters with an after-work drink at Three Flags’ oyster happy hour (3 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday). The selection is always changing, and no one will judge if you opt for a cooked version.

4940 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9222, threeflagstavern.com

3

4

WEST END GRILL & PUB

5

1. Oysters with Asian-inspired mignonette at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. 2. Rockefeller-style oyster with creamed spinach, bacon, Parmesan and bread crumbs at Coastal Bistro & Bar 3. Grilled Humboldt Gold oysters at Demun Oyster Bar 4. Demun Oyster Bar 5. Raw Humboldt Gold oysters at Demun Oyster Bar 6. Oysters at Coastal Bistro & Bar served with seasonal mignonettes

PA IR IN G S 6

January 2016

There’s a reason for oyster happy hours. The little gems pair perfectly with an afternoon libation. Feeling urbane? Order a dry, bubbly white wine. For a more robust sidekick, pair with a stout or porter.

Big, meaty bluepoints are a favorite at West End Grill & Pub’s Thursday oyster night. Homemade cocktail sauce, hot sauce and horseradish provide plenty of ways to sample the raw bites at just $1 a pop. 354 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, 314.531.4607, westendgrillandpub.com

B R O A D WAY OYSTER BAR Gulf oysters hail from Louisiana and bluepoints from Connecticut at Broadway Oyster Bar. Order some of each or grab an oyster shooter with vodka, horseradish and tomato served in a shot glass.

736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

H E R B I E ’ S V I N TA G E ’ 7 2 Oyster Wednesdays give diners a chance to check out various mollusks at the peak of their season. From small West Coast Kumamoto oysters to large Eastern varieties that finish sweet, Herbie’s Vintage ’72 offers a rotating selection with all the traditional sauces and sides. 405 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.769.9595, herbies.com

C O A S TA L BISTRO & BAR Serving raw oysters from the East Coast and West Coast, Coastal Bistro offers seasonal variations in their mignonette sauces like raspberry vinegar or a rice wine vinegar with jalapeno and red onion. Try them raw or baked Rockefeller style with creamed spinach, bacon, Parmesan and breadcrumbs.

14 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.932.7377, coastalbistro.com

DEMUN OYSTER BAR With hundreds of varieties to choose from, DeMun Oyster Bar opts to showcase only a handful at a time. The Humboldt Gold packs explosive flavor for its diminutive size and it, along with the rest of the stock, is picked up fresh off an Alaskan Airlines cargo plane at Lambert International Airport every day or so. 740 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0322, demunoysterbar.com

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stuff to do:

JANUARY

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

St. Louis Sour Symposium Jan. 7 – 4 to 6 p.m. and 7 to 9 p.m., Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar, 1004 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.8141, stlsoursymposium. brownpapertickets.com Calling all sour beer fanatics: Come learn the art of crafting the perfect sour from grain to glass. Enjoy a pint of New Belgium La Folie and experiment with your own blend of foeder-aged sour beers. Enjoy cheese and charcuterie pairings, then stay after the session and order Bridge food specials created for the symposium. Tickets available online.

Annie Gunn’s Trimbach Dinner Jan. 19 – 6:30 p.m., Annie Gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, smokehousemarket.com Reserve your spot at this decadent wine dinner. Annie Gunn’s executive chef Lou Rook III prepares a five-course meal, including salmon with Idaho caviar, poached pear and creme fraiche, followed by a course of veal tartar with fried sweetbreads, foie gras mousse and house-made pickles. Alsatian cheeses will follow a course of confit pork belly and smoked Yukon gold potato salad.

Each course will be paired with a Trimbach wine, which has been produced in the Alsace region since 1626. Reservations required.

St. Louis Media History Foundation: Food in Media Jan. 19 to March 31 – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Karpeles Manuscript Library and Museum, 3524 Russell Ave., St. Louis, 314.282.0234, stlmediahistory.com Did you know that St. Louis’ first open-air

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rooftop restaurant and oyster bar debuted in 1878? Learn about 19th-century restaurant mogul Tony Faust and other food-forward movers and shakers in St. Louis. Stroll through exhibits featuring original radio manuscripts and national advertising campaigns created in The Lou and celebrate all things food and media.

Sweet Tooth Tour Jan. 23 – noon to 5 p.m., participating locations, Maplewood, cityofmaplewood.com/ sweet-tooth Put on your walking shoes and indulge your sweet tooth at 14 Maplewood shops, restaurants, cafes and bakeries. Each location on the self-guided tour will feature a unique confection or beverage from places like Kakao Chocolate, Larder & Cupboard, Strange Donuts and Living Room. Tickets available at most participating locations.

Brasserie Beer Brunch Jan. 16 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Brasserie, 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com Local powerhouses Brasserie and Urban Chestnut have teamed up to serve a beer-centric brunch.

Brasserie chef Nick Blue and UCBC chef Andy Fair create savory and sweet dishes, each paired with a UCBC brew like Apotheosis, Fantasyland and the 2015 Wolpertinger. Past dishes have included a braised brisket tartine, beef cassoulet, stuffed beignets and French toast.

Reservations recommended.

January 2016

Taste of Soulard Jan. 30 and 31 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., participating locations, stlmardigras.org Enjoy a taste of the Mardi Gras spirit as more than 30 Soulard-area bars and restaurants like Broadway Oyster Bar and Molly’s in Soulard offer festive Cajun and Creole dishes. Other stops like Mission Taco Joint and Truman’s Place will share their non-NOLA (but equally delectable) fare. Tickets include vouchers for six food items and a Southern Comfort drink voucher.

sponsored events

Operation Food Search Cheers to 35 Years Through January, participating locations, operationfoodsearch.org Raise a glass to Operation Food Search, which is celebrating 35 years of feeding hungry St. Louisans. This is the last month to purchase a glass of “OFS Wine” at a participating restaurant. Take a selfie enjoying your selection, then post it to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram with @OpFoodSearch or @SauceMag and #Cheersto35Years. A portion of the wine sale benefits OFS, and you’re entered in a drawing for a case of wine. A full list of participating restaurants is available online.

Clayton Restaurant Week Jan. 18 to 24, participating restaurants, claytonrestaurantweek.com The seventh annual Clayton Restaurant Week features 15 Clayton restaurants like Cantina Laredo, Cardwell’s and Oceano Bistro. For one week, diners attend the participating restaurant of their choice and select from a special three-course dinner menu for $25 per person, plus tax and tip. Rediscover a long-time favorite or experience one of the city’s hot new eateries. Reservations are recommended; mention Clayton Restaurant Week when reserving a table.

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Six mile bridge beer 11841 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.942.2211, sixmilebridgebeer.com

a few players. It’s 20 years behind, and that’s just because there hasn’t been a market for it.

How did the St. Louis brewing community welcome you?

RS: South Africa is very cutthroat.

Nobody shares any information. It’s each man for himself. When we got here, it was such a surprise because all of the sudden these people wanted to help us and to get involved. … Brian (Owens), the head brewer at O’Fallon Brewery, is a really busy guy, and he took two nights out of his week to help me fix up our bottling machine.

LS: It caught us by surprise because in Cape Town, we did approach other brewers to do collaboration beers and everyone was very: “Stay at arms length.” Here, the culture is very much: “A rising tide floats all ships.”

Why did you want to have a tasting room here?

RS: We were always going to be a production brewery. … (But we wanted) to be able to build relationships with our patrons.

LS: People come in and they ask what’s our next beer. People here want more because they have expanded palates, and they know more about the beer industry. … We didn’t really interact on a level where people wanted to know that much about the process in Cape Town.

WHAT I DO

Ryan and Lindsay Sherring

It’s a craft beer love story: A homebrewing South African boy falls for a St. Louis girl working in Cape Town. A few years and a wedding later, Ryan and Lindsay Sherring launched 021 Brewing in Cape Town. In 2014 they left it all behind and brought his brewing knowhow and her marketing savvy to launch Six Mile Bridge Beer in Maryland Heights. – Catherine Klene

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How do the St. Louis and Cape Town brewing scenes compare?

RS: I don’t even think they are comparable. … I know that the market has matured since we’ve left, but even so, there are probably as many craft breweries in St. Louis as there are in all of South Africa right now.

LS: I like to compare it to craft beer in St. Louis in the early ’90s. There’s only

How has this business affected your relationship?

RS: Lindsay is highly competent. I’ve worked with some pretty smart people – I wouldn’t trust them with what Lindsay’s doing. She’s definitely the secret ingredient.

LS: When we are working 85- to 100hour weeks … we get to do it together, and we’re passionate about it, and I think that’s what fuels us every day.

January 2016

PHOTO BY EMILY SUZANNE MCDONALD

Where did the name Six Mile Bridge come from?

RS: Sixmilebridge is a village (in Ireland) between two cities where people used to stop and rest for the night, stay at pubs to have a beer and meet new friends. I don’t think there’s a better medium for people to connect over than a drink. You have a beer, everybody relaxes, starts to talk and you start to build friendships. I think Six Mile Bridge encompasses that.

January 2016

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January 2016