July 2012 issue by Sauce Magazine

ice cream social

INSID E : r e a d e r s ’ c h o i c e w i n n e r s · m o j i t o m a s h - u p · f i s h t a c o s g o r o g u e t. l o u i s ’ i n d e p e n d e n t c u l i n a r y a u t h o r i t y Julys 2012

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J u ly 2 012 • VO LUM E 12, Issue 7 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checkers PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

RELATIONS DIRECTOR OFFICE MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES ACCOUNT MANAGER INTERN

Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Julie Cohen Stacy Schultz Kelsi Crow, Robert Severson, Lindsay Toler Emily Lowery Rebekah Wessels Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Kelsi Crow, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz Erin Keplinger Sharon Arnot Erin Keplinger Angie Rosenberg Jayson Gifford, Erin Keplinger, Adam Larkin, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Kelsi Crow

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use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

July 2012

contents July 2012

9 A La Carte

Reviews 17 new and notable: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine

Searching for Truth and Beauty in the Suburbs by Michael Renner

21 Nightlife: Desserts on the Boulevard

Can this Midtown Newbie Find its Sweet Spot? by Matt Berkley

23 Cook’s books: David Kirkland’s Favorites By Julie Cohen

Home cooking 25 What in the world: Kaiware by Ligaya Figueras

cover details

26 Vegetize it: Lasagna by Kellie Hynes

28 One ingredient, 6 ways: Zucchini Gorging on Gourds by Stacy Schultz

30 The New Classics Pint Size Bakery’s BLT Muffins

features

By Meera Nagarajan

Last course

34 Ice cream social By M eer a N agar ajan and Stacy Schu lt z

48 Stuff to do this month by Byron Kerman

50 Five questions for: Jane Callahan by Byron Kerman

42 burger kings This one goes out to all the vegetarians out there BY Li gaya Fi gu er as

Ice cream sandwiches: p. 41 Cranberry Crunch Cookies from Pint Size Bakery sandwiching Tower Grove Creamery’s orange sherbert (top) and Anna Marie’s Ice Cream’s vanilla

Photo by Greg Rannells mojito mash-up: p. 12 fish tacos go rogue: p. 13

= recipe on this page

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INTERVIEWS | Has the pie trend officially arrived in St. Louis? Pie Oh My!’s Jane Callahan sure hopes so (and so do we). On page 50, Callahan answers our questions about the itsybitsy pie shop she’s opening in Maplewood this fall, including her secrets to the perfect pie crust. Wondering what other tricks this baking maven has up her sleeve? Head to the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com to read the interview in its entirety. MOJITO MASH-UP | Sweltering sun. Relentless humidity. Don’t you just love St. Louis summers? When the endless July heat is here, there’s only one drink we reach for: an ice cold, mintmuddled, rum-rolling Mojito. Turn to page 12 to find out where you can find eight great versions around town. Then, head to the blog section of SauceMagazine. com on Friday, July 6 for Drink This Weekend Edition, where we’ll reveal three more killer recommendations for this killer Cuban cocktail.

CORRECTION

photo by carmen troesser

Hiro’s Coconut Mojito

In the June issue of Sauce on page 5 and page 30, we noted that Kellie Hynes wrote the Vegetize Column, Tuna Salad. In fact, Beth Styles wrote that article. We sincerely regret our error.

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday July 13 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. to hear our picks for the best foodie books to add to your reading list this summer.

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EAT THIS

If a trip across the globe isn’t in the budget this season, just head to BOBO NOODLE HOUSE for a delicious, worldly twist on a Midwestern favorite. Here, the ASIAN BARBECUED SPARE RIBS are glossy from a spicy-sticky-sweet glaze of honey, hoisin and chile paste. A touch of sugar in the sauce gives the crust an addictive char that yields to tender meat fully loaded with the flavors of summer. Now these are worth traveling for.

Photo by carmen troesser

Bobo Noodle House • 278 N. Skinker Blvd., St. Louis • 314.863.7373

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best seat La Vallesana, 2801 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.776.4223

[beer] An ice-cold beer always sounds best when the temps skyrocket into truly blazing territory. But here are a few summer seasonal beers I wish were available all year long. – Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales

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Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale This hoppy, American blond ale is my goto session beer for the summer. Sweet caramels on the tongue are offset by just enough palatecleaning bitterness and hop resin to make this full-flavored yet light beer almost too easy to drink.

4 Hands Prussia 4 Hands brewed a wonderful take on the traditional German Berliner Weissbier with Prussia. It pours like a cloudy grapefruit juice with aromatics of white grapes and rose petals. A bright lemon tartness up front is followed by a lasting, medium-bodied, wheatbread finish.

Odell St. Lupulin Light, dry and hoppy, this is a great all-around beer. Perfectly clear with a pale golden color, tropical fruits, orchard fruits and citrus peel dominate the aroma and flavor of this American pale ale. A dry cracker, low to medium body ties everything together.

July 2012

photo by laura miller

If you’re anything like us, you’re looking for a way to escape the scorching summer sun while still enjoying the fresh air. When we want a seat in the shade, we head for the aptly covered patio at La Vallesana. With authentic Mexican eats just steps away and a front row view of the ever-bustling Cherokee Street, it’s an ideal spot to spend a few hours this summer — torta and agua fresca in hand.

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MOJITO MASH-UP: A Perfect Summer Cocktail Gets Even Better 1

Ah, St. Louis summers. Apologies to the sweater-weather sect, but my spirits soar with rising temps. But when the Mercury rockets off the charts, nothing sounds better than an icecold Mojito. For this high-summer cocktail, light rum is usually the spirited host, while lime juice, simple syrup, club soda and mint make the A-list. Like to stick to tradition? Order the Mojito c. 1920 at Taste. It’s possibly the cleanest Mojito in town: no flecks of mint or too-sweet simple syrup to drown out the dry, white rum and tart lime juice. Looking to swap in coconut water? How about a little strawberry? Order one of these seven sippers for a patio-perfect Mojito like you’ve never tasted before. – Ligaya Figueras

1. Spicy Pomegranate Mojito at Dressel’s Public House This Mojito gets its mojo from a full-flavored, house-made syrup of ginger, habanero, pomegranate and lime. Fruity yet tart with lingering spice, I didn’t expect to find this free verse Mojito at a poet’s pub. 2. Gran Passion Mojito at Ruth’s Chris Steak House Rarely do you find a primo aged rum like Don Q Gran Añejo mixed into a Mojito. All that aging (up to 12 years) tempers the angry pirate. Add passion fruit purée and he’ll be putting on the charm.

3. Mexican Mojito at Milagro Modern Mexican Swap tequila for rum, sweeten with agave nectar instead of simple syrup, and you’ve got a fine south-of-the-border version of this Cuban mainstay. 4. Coconut Mojito at Hiro It’s an AsianCaribbean handshake when coconut water mingles with rum. Lime juice and fresh mint serve as ambassadors, maintaining diplomatic relations for tropical nations.

5. Drake’s Recovery at BC’s Kitchen The Draque was the precursor to the Mojito. BC’s Kitchen bar manager Justin Cardwell revived it – and improved it with a topper of bubbly. Best part: You get to call it. Will it be sweet Moscato or a dry Spanish cava?

7. Ginger Mojito at Boogaloo There’s so much muddled mint and lime swimming in the glass that “dirty Mojito” wouldn’t be a misnomer. But the ginger purée puts us in Zen mode. Suddenly, we don’t care.

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photos by carmen troesser

6. Strawberry-Basil Mojito at Bristol Seafood Grill Strawberries and basil love to share space on the plate. Why not in the glass? Add rum, pure cane syrup and lime juice, and it’s a whole new kind of strawberry festival.

The summer months are prime taco time, but who wants to spend hours sweating over the stove when a golden tan and an ice-cold marg await? Here’s a recipe for scallop tacos that are ready in just 15 minutes. Pat 8 large sea scallops dry and season them with salt and pepper. Sear them in vegetable oil over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from heat and set aside. Defrost 2 cups of frozen corn in the microwave. To the corn, stir in ¹∕³ cup of crumbled cotija cheese, 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise, 2 minced garlic cloves and 3 ∕8 teaspoons of ancho chile powder. Add salt and pepper to taste. Warm 8 corn tortillas in a skillet over high heat for about 1 minute on each side, and place under a damp paper towel. To assemble: Evenly sprinkle each tortilla with the corn mixture. Cut each scallop in half, and place atop the corn mixture. If desired, add guacamole and pico de gallo. – Meera Nagarajan

Pick up sea scallops at Bob’s Seafood.

photo by carmen troesser

One avocado, 2 tablespoons of finely chopped white onion, the juice of half a lime and a little chopped cilantro make for a simple, easy guacamole. Bob’s Seafood 8660 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.4844, bobsseafoodstl.com

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chef’s day off

use this

Mathis Stitt, Chef at Veritas Gateway to Food and Winex

stem citrus spritzer

With dinner served just three nights a week at his family’s restaurant, chef Mathis Stitt has plenty of time to cook at home. But he’d rather take the trip down to The Hill for a meal unlike any other. “I’ve been going [to Gioia’s Deli] since I could drive, and I really feel like [the Hot Salami sandwich] is one of the few sandwiches in St. Louis that really could stand up in any neighborhood, in any state in the country, and still be an iconic sandwich. I’ve never had anything like that Hot Salami before; it’s amazing and terrible for you.”

Need a wee bit of fruit juice? No need to pull out the juicer or jam a fork into that lemon and worry about catching the pulp and seeds. Just insert the Stem Citrus Spritzer’s serrated teeth into your citrus fruit of choice and spray. Soon, you’ll be evenly spraying fresh juice over fish, chicken, salads – even cocktails. Heck, we love this gadget so much, we’re fruit-freshening our breath with it!

For more on Stitt, check out Michael Renner’s New and Notable review of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine on page 19.

Find the Stem Citrus Spritzer at several area Target locations, target. com. $5.

[wine]

Photo by CARMEN TROESSER

Glenn Bardgett, Annie Gunn’s wine director and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, weighs in on which wines to drink this month. Check your favorite wine shop or liquor store for availability.

July 2012

Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc Les Princes Abbés 2009, Alsace, France This 200-plus-year-old winery makes highly extracted wines from low-yield vineyards, making their bottles tremendous values. Floral and fruity yet made for serious red-wine foods, this $18 nearly dry white pinot doesn’t back down from any red meat placed in front of it.

Domaine Pichot Vouvray Le Peu de la Moriette 2011, Loire, France Whenever I taste a bright, young Vouvray, I wonder why more people don’t drink these delicious chenin blancs from western France. Old vines and a little barrel aging add up to mouth-filling pleasure. Slight sweetness is perfect for your tomato-and-mozzarella salads, while spicy foods are also happy with this $18 beauty nearby.

Firestone Riesling 2009, Santa Ynez, Calif. Everyone should have a bucketfull of this riesling for their Fourth of July party. This $12 white is exactly what I want to be drinking on a hot St. Louis summer day. With residual sugar that’s counterbalanced by acid and a low pH level, this will make your burgers and brats smile. Just be sure to buy enough; you won’t want to run out on a holiday.

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reviews For the Veritas Rib-Eye Benedict, juicy steak gets perched atop a bed of fresh tomatoes and grilled onions. A poached egg and delicate greens turn this steak-and-eggs dish into dinnertime fare.

new and notable: veritas gateway to food and wine p. 17 nightlife: desserts on the boulevard p. 21 cook’s books: david kirkland’s favorites p. 23

Searching for Truth and Beauty in the Suburbs by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

uring a recent visit to Charleston, S.C., my goal was to eat as much shrimp and grits as humanly possible. I indulged; they know what they’re doing down there when it comes to seafood. But I could have saved a lot of time and effort and just headed to Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine in Chesterfield. Here, an appetizer of two plump, fresh, head-on shrimp came nestled in a bowl of real grits – as in stone-ground, coarse, creamy, rich, thick and chewy. That singular dish, bathed in a broth with house-cured bacon and tender, young onions, accentuated with a softboiled egg – a surprisingly perfect accompaniment – defines the character, philosophy and integrity of Veritas: unfussy food, expertly executed. And as its website states, nearly everything at Veritas is made in-house: sauces, dressings, pickled vegetables, ice cream, pasta and cured bacon. While tucking into that dish – the rich yolk spreading across those grits like a soft, yellow blanket – a server passed by on his way to the neighboring table. “Here’s the scallops if you want to take a look.” It was a quick look, and they Veritas Gateway were tempting: nicely seared and served to Food and with grilled asparagus and arugula, peas Wine, 1722 and peanuts. But it was Cinco de Mayo. Clarkson Road, The pork tacos were calling my name, Chesterfield, and the new summer sangria sounded 636.530.9505, irresistible (riesling, merlot, brandy, juice, veritasgateway.com. fruit, Champagne … tell me you can resist a carafe for only $12). Eight years ago, David Stitt quit the corporate life and opened Veritas with his wife, Stephanie. Back then, the little retail shop in the Dierberg’s Market Plaza focused on wine, specialty foods and kitchen gifts while also serving breakfast and lunch. In any number of hands, this would be a recipe for disaster, with too-charming gifts, wine with cutesy labels and a lunch menu catering to rich ladies of leisure. Fortunately, none of this is true. David has a wellstudied wine palate; son Mathis went to culinary school and now runs the small, open kitchen; and Stephanie keeps the place humming. (Interesting to note: David’s brother is Frank Stitt, owner July 2012

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review new and notable: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine Chef Mathis Stitt makes Veritas’ pasta fresh each day. For this spring-meets-summer dish, long, house-made fettuccine gets topped with meaty lamb, briny clams, tomato, fresh rosemary, scapes and kale.

of grass-fed, grass-finished ground beef – firm, meaty and cooked to a juicy medium temperature – layered with a crunchy cucumber slice, lettuce, mayonnaise, pickled onions and pimento cheese spread. The last three, as with all of the restaurant’s condiments, are made in-house. It’s a delicious mess held together by a wooden skewer and impossible to eat without a knife and fork. But it’s hard to imagine eating such a production as a prelude to a full meal without splitting it.

of Birmingham, Ala.’s highly regarded Highlands Bar and Grill and a James Beard “Who’s Who” inductee.) Since opening, the Stitts have nixed breakfast, kept lunch and added Sunday brunch. And for the past few years, they’ve fashioned Veritas into one of the best, most underrated dinner destinations in town on Thursday through Saturday nights. Have a seat among the wine racks and shelves of gifts, order a glass of wine from the small but well-curated list and look over

Where Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.530.9505, veritasgateway.com.

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the menu, the one that changes weekly and focuses on locally sourced ingredients to the greatest possible extent. (A few regulars are always available on the lunch menu.) You can purchase any wine to drink with your meal for a $10 corkage fee. Better yet, step up to a chair around the open kitchen. It’s the best seat in the house to interact with Mathis and the assistant cooks, especially if you’re even remotely curious how your trout is prepared or how the burger is constructed. That burger, labeled “baby burger” on the appetizer portion of the menu, is a 4-inch tower consisting of a quarter-pound patty

Don’t Miss Dishes The menu changes weekly, but be on the lookout for a rib-eye steak, baby burger, and any fresh pasta or fish dish.

Like the trout on my grill, Veritas’ version is trimmed, with crisp skin, delicate white flesh and a mild, clean flavor. That’s the point of fresh trout, after all. Lemon and herbs, yes, but mine isn’t stuffed with bacon, grilled and then plated with a schmear of mashed edamame, oven-dried tomatoes and grilled asparagus. It isn’t topped with a dollop of lemon aioli, sliced leeks and pickled onions, either. Clearly, my fish needs more style. Even with that much diversity in one dish, everything came together beautifully: simultaneously citrusy, earthy, creamy and pungent. Those tacos had all the flavor you’d expect from pork braised in cocoa, coffee and beer

Vibe Looks like a homey retail store with dining tables. So casual as to belie the quality of food and attention to detail.

– deep and concentrated – and all the bright freshness of the black beans, salsa verde, tomato relish, arugula, crumbles of queso fresco and lime wedges topping the whole shebang. Coffee and cocoa appeared again as a rub for the 10-ounce rib-eye, giving the cut a charred crust and robust smokiness. Sandwiched between cauliflower mashed potatoes, tomato relish and arugula, with grilled asparagus to the side, it was a colorful example of how the kitchen takes a simple dish like steak-and-potatoes and tweaks it just enough to make it interesting without approaching pretention. The spaghetti was made that day and had the proper chew and bite of a quick boil. The sauce was a flavorful blend of fresh and canned tomatoes, a bit of butter for gloss and viscosity, soft mozzarella and fresh basil. Simple and rustic. Desserts change, but there are always cookies – doublechocolate chip, white-chocolate chip and pecan, oatmeal raisin – made to order, warm and soft from the oven. At this point it should be obvious that Veritas is one of my favorite restaurants … has been for a long time. And because the Stitts believe in serving simple yet creative food and well-chosen wines in a relaxed, convivial setting, it’s also my go-to recommendation. Dream of having a big, open kitchen where friends congregate and have a good time while you’re cooking? That’s Veritas. This isn’t food meant to challenge you; it’s just honest, unaffected – and good. And that’s the truth, plain and simple. Michael Renner still believes truth and happiness are found around a table with friends and simple fo od and wine.

Entree Prices $15 to $28

When Closed July 1 to 9 for holiday. Brunch: Sun. – 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Lunch: Tue. to Sat. – 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner: Thu. to Sat. – 5:30 to 10 p.m. July 2012

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review nightlife: Desserts on the boulevard

Can this Midtown Newbie Find its Sweet Spot? by Matt berkley • photos by jonathan gayman

offending anyone who has tripped down the cobblestone of Bourbon Street.

ORDER THIS:

The kitchen also leans toward Desserts on the the decadent. Boulevard, 3949 Savory options Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, include lobster 314.533.3377 roll sliders, Brussels sprouts with caramelized Vidalia onions and a crab napoleon pastry dish. On the dessert side, the Fetish bread pudding dish imitated the Louisiana classic quite well. And don’t overlook the Tryst, a straightforward and simply satisfying cake dish smothered in caramel and dressed with vanilla ice cream.

esserts on the Boulevard is the kind of low-key, urban, afterhours spot that couples flock to to taste-test sweet, booze-drenched concoctions to the sounds of live music and DJs come to to let loose well into the wee hours of the night. It’s a trendy addition to the burgeoning Midtown nightlife scene. But as it struggles to grasp its footing, this multitalented venue can prove hit or miss depending on the night. Though this bar is also part bistro and part bakery, the focus here is definitely on the hooch. Patrons indulge on a nightly basis from a well-stocked, walk-in wine cellar situated across from a main bar that, on a late Saturday night, teems with action. Though the fledgling wait staff can lean toward the less-than-knowledgeable side July 2012

(I actually had to describe what a vodka martini was to my server.), the bartenders more than made up for any trouble. While classic cocktails are ably mixed, the draw here is the sweet stuff. The bar especially shines with its dessert drinks: Akin to a German chocolate cake, the Bavarian Port is a decadent mix of port, rum, coconut, dark chocolate, caramel and vanilla ice cream. Equally rich was a fantastic take on the standard Brandy Alexander, which typically fuses cognac with chocolate and vanilla ice creams. Here, it was presented in a snifter glass lathered with vanilla. Less impressive were a few offerings from the craft cocktail menu. The Big Easy, a variation on the traditional New Orleans Hurricane, was weak and watered down to the point of

The proprietors have done well in transforming a possibly stale and innocuous strip mall space into a remarkably welldressed place to pass an evening. The main room is flush with slick high-tops and white-leather swivel chairs that fill up fast on weekend nights, mainly with crowds of girlfriends and couples. Singles are more common on nights when Desserts on the Boulevard plays host to various DJs, funk groups, 70s cover bands and jazz acts. Dark and mainly candle-lit, the modern space is adorned with smart pieces of contemporary art – i.e. a massive abstract statue of a dancing female figure, which lords over the room in a playful manner. It’s all a bit over the top, but so is everything about this place – from the menu down to the décor. The atmosphere changes depending on the entertainment of the evening, which can range from high-volume hip-hop DJs to mellow saxophone acts. Avoid any confusion by calling ahead. Location is going to be an issue. On one hand, Desserts on the Boulevard is well placed at the center of a busy Midtown intersection in dire need of a new drinking establishment. On the other hand, this joint (hardly yet well established) is marred by a lack of convenient parking and easy-to-miss signage. And while theme nights on weekends can be packed, the weeknight crowd is noticeably thin. Stronger bars have folded under less positive circumstances. Hopefully Desserts on the Boulevard will be up to the challenge.

Desserts on the Boulevard

The dessert drinks shine at this new late-night venue. The Bavarian Port is a boozy concoction of rum and port sweetened by coconut, dark chocolate, caramel and ice cream. Is it a drink? A dessert? You decide.

The kitchen keeps things decadent as well. Don’t miss the Tryst, a simple yet scrumptious dish of rich chocolate cake joined by two heaping scoops of vanilla ice cream and slathered with sticky caramel.

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review

Three books for better understanding the art of food

The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution by Alice Waters “Like me, Waters is not formally trained. I’m, for sure, not on her level, but I aspire to be like her.” At Café Osage, executive chef David Kirkland brings a whole new level of local to the kitchen as he gathers veggies from the garden across the street at Bowood Farms and herbs from the rooftop garden above. Kirkland recommended these books for those who are beginners in the kitchen or experts looking for a little inspiration. – Julie Cohen

Cook’s books: David Kirkland’s favorites

Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes by Harold McGee “This is more of a reference book. It lists how to make everything and the science of how food works – from how to poach an egg to how foods are leavened. Because I’m not formally trained, [it] helped me figure out why things messed up and how to fix things I was struggling with.”

The Fannie Farmer Cookbook by Marion Cunningham “This was pretty much the first cookbook I ever used; it was my mom’s. Everything about basic cooking that you need to know is in this book.”[Originally published in 1896 by Fannie Merritt Farmer and The Boston Cooking School]

photo by carmen troesser

That warm breeze sings for the best ingredients, both fresh and sweet. From poolside snacks to colorful entrees, here are a few books filled with recipes and techniques to help summer shine through all of your kitchen creations. Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine.com, check out By the Book where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection. — Kelsi Crow

Salad for Dinner: Complete Meals for All Seasons by Jeanne Kelley Give salad a spot in the limelight with these flavorful recipes that deem greens worthy of your main dish.

July 2012

Handheld Pies: Dozens of PintSize Sweets & Savories by Sarah Billingsley and Rachel Wharton Forget those crust-baking woes! Learn technique-driven recipes that will leave your hands and mouth – not your kitchen – covered in sweet and sticky pie.

Fresh & Easy: What to Cook and How to Cook It by Jane Hornby Let seasonal ingredients illuminate your summer dishes with easy techniques for bold and bright meals.

Susan Feniger’s Street Food by Susan Feniger Feniger brings street food culture to your next picnic with family recipes she’s collected from around the globe.

Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones by Kris Hoogerhyde, Anne Walker and Dabney Gough San Francisco’s famed Bi-Rite Creamery has provided recipes for making the sweet treats of your childhood summers — from sorbets to granitas to ice cream pies and sandwiches.

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what in the world: kaiware p. 25 vegetize it: lasagna p. 26 one ingredient, 6 ways: zucchini p. 28 the new classics: BLT muffins p. 30

Kaiware, the sprouted seeds

of a daikon radish, make a regular appearance in Japanese cuisine. This Asian vegetable performs best raw, particularly as a garnish, which preserves the delicate texture of its slender white stem and the peppery kick of its tiny tips. Use it: If the roots are still attached, slice them off, then use kaiware in salad or sushi, or as a garnish. Let it embellish eggs, potato salad, noodle dishes, ceviche, and any other fare needing vibrant color, microgreens’ texture and sharp radish flavor. Find it: Asia Market, 1243B Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur, 314.878.2010

Tokyo Nachos

what in the world is

photo by greg rannells

kaiware?

July 2012

Courtesy of Miso on Meramec’s Kory Kim using a recipe by Chop Shop’s Eliott Harris 4 appetizer servings 2 cups daikon radish, shredded into long strands 8 Tbsp. finely chopped raw sushigrade tuna* 6 tsp. finely sliced scallions, divided 1 tsp. sesame oil 2 tsp. Japanese mayonnaise (such as Kewpie brand**) 2 Tbsp. sriracha 3 to 4 dashes Japanese 7-spice powder** Vegetable oil for deep-frying 8 large shiso leaves, stems on** 1 cup prepared tempura batter** 8 thin slivers avocado ½ cup kaiware** 8 matchstick-sized lengths pickled yamagobo (burdock root)** 8 matchstick-sized lengths cucumber ¼ of 1 jalapeño, cut into 8 very thin

rings 4 tsp. tobiko** Ponzu sauce, for garnish** • Place the radish strands in a bowl of ice water for 30 minutes, changing the water after 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside. • Prepare a spicy tuna mixture by combining the tuna, 2 teaspoons of scallions, sesame oil, mayonnaise, sriracha and 7-spice powder in a small bowl. Set aside in the refrigerator. • Heat the vegetable oil to 350 degrees in a deep-fryer. Batter the shiso leaves in the tempura batter. Hold the stem of 1 battered leaf and swish the lower section of the leaf gently back and forth in the oil for a few seconds before dropping it into the deep-fryer for about 30 seconds, or until crunchy. Drain on a paper towel. Repeat with remaining leaves. • To assemble the “nachos” on a large platter, position the radish strands as a nest on which the nachos will rest. • Spread the fried shiso leaves atop the radish strands in an even layer. • Top each leaf with 1 tablespoon of the spicy tuna mixture and a sliver of avocado. • Next, make a “bouquet” by inserting 12 kaiware stems and 1 length each of pickled yamagobo and cucumber through a jalapeño ring. Set the “bouquet” atop the shiso leaf. Repeat to place a “bouquet” atop each leaf. • Garnish each “nacho” with ½ teaspoon each of tobiko and scallions. Finish with a drop of ponzu sauce at the center of each “nacho.” * Available at Bob’s Seafood, 8660 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.4844, bobsseafoodstl.com ** Available at most Asian grocery stores

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home cooking Vegetize it: lasagna

Summer Lasagna BY kellie hynes â&#x20AC;˘ Photo by carmen troesser

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asagna has something for everyone. Cheese. Starch. More cheese. But vegetarian lasagna? Well that’s usually just Mom’s recipe without the meat. Bo-ring. (Nothing against your mom. She’s lovely.) Since it’s too hot to turn on the oven and my farmers market produce overfloweth, it’s time to find a new twist on this old favorite. My friend Lucinda gets giddy when she talks about polenta. She happily discovered it when she and her husband were young and poor in London. They could buy a week’s worth of polenta for less than two rides on the Tube – they ate a lot of polenta. “Polenta” is a synonym for cornmeal. But comparing polenta to the stuff in the Quaker canister is like comparing Champagne to grape juice. Beverages, yes. Substitutes, no. Polenta can be served creamy, like grits. Or it can be cooled in a pan and then toasted, which is alternatively called “hard polenta” or, as I like to think of it: dreamy, roasted corn goodness. Grilled hard polenta, with its cheery yellow color and intense corn flavor, is an ideal base for my summer-themed lasagna. But what to put on top? Lucinda often pairs her polenta with a warm mushroom sauce. I sauteed portobello mushrooms (whose nutty, hearty flavor pay homage to the traditional ground beef ) and whisked in some mascarpone cheese. Then I marinated red bell peppers, zucchini, yellow squash and asparagus in a shallot-balsamic vinaigrette. I grilled the polenta and veggies, assembled the layers and dug in. It was a disaster. The mushroom sauce was delicious but had an ugly gray hue. The vegetables had soaked up the vinaigrette

July 2012

and were brown and slimy because of it. Sure, it tasted fine, but it looked like the gruel in Oliver Twist. Only worse.

Pretty Easy Polenta Lasagna

I wanted to replace the mushroom sauce with fresh mozzarella; it references traditional lasagna and isn’t, well, repulsive. The tricky part was the temperature of the cheese. Hot, toasted polenta is crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. But when it’s cold, the texture transforms into something weird and putty-like. To keep the mozzarella from prematurely cooling the polenta, I added it while the polenta was still on the grill. Victory! The mozzarella melted into a warm, ooey-gooey layer.

6 to 8 servings

And the vegetables? I ditched the marinade and grilled them with just enough oil to prevent sticking. They looked pretty but tasted bland. The solution was the tangy tomato bruschetta topping I had made the day before. By dotting it on top of the lasagna, I jazzed up the entire entree. Bonus: The bright red tomatoes added a pop of color to the plate. The tastes and colors were now in harmony, but I had a hard time keeping the layers assembled. No matter what, the asparagus spears rolled and the peppers slid. Remembering that less is more, I edited it down to four layers. Polenta, melted mozzarella, grilled zucchini, tomato topping. Perfect. Here’s the honest truth: If you are making this for people who love you no matter what their meal looks like, go ahead and pile the vegetables on. Consider a grilled vegetable buffet, where everyone starts with a piece of grilled polenta with mozzarella and adds their own layers. But if you’re serving folks who observe such formalities as real napkins, it’s best to keep it simple.

Olive oil 6 cups hot, cooked polenta* 2 medium zucchini Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 oz. fresh mozzarella, sliced thick 2 cups tangy tomato bruschetta topping (recipe follows) 3 oz. Parmesan, shaved • Brush the bottom and sides of a jelly roll pan with a thin coat of olive oil. Pour the hot polenta into the pan. Use a wooden spoon to shape it into a ½-inch thick slab. Cover the pan with a loose piece of aluminum foil and refrigerate until cold, approximately 2 hours or overnight. • Light a charcoal grill with the grate 4 inches above the coals, or turn a propane grill to medium-high heat. • Remove the ends from the zucchini, but leave the skin on. Slice in half crosswise, then lengthwise into ¼- to ½-inch slices. Lightly brush the zucchini slices with olive oil on both sides, and season with kosher salt and black pepper. Grill over direct heat for 5 minutes per side, until soft and lightly charred. Remove from the grill and keep warm. • Remove the polenta from the refrigerator, and use a sharp knife to cut it into 8 equal squares. (The polenta will feel cold and rubbery – don’t worry.) • Lightly brush 1 side of the polenta slices with olive oil and place them on the hot grill grate, oiled side down. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the bottom is a golden yellow color and the texture feels like toast.

• Brush the top of the polenta slices with a thin coat of oil and flip the polenta. Place a slice of mozzarella in the center of each square and cook for an additional 5 minutes, until the second side is golden and the mozzarella is melted. • To assemble, layer 2 slices of zucchini and 2 tablespoons of bruschetta topping on each piece of polenta. Garnish with shaved Parmesan. Serve immediately. To make it vegan: Prepare the polenta with olive oil instead of butter. Substitute pesto (without Parmesan) for the mozzarella. Garnish with thin strips of fresh basil. * Prepare according to the” hard polenta” directions on the package.

Tangy Tomato Bruschetta Topping Approximately 2 cups 8 ripe plum Roma tomatoes, diced and seeds removed 2 tsp. minced garlic 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, sliced into strips 1½ Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar, plus additional to taste 1 Tbsp. olive oil Pinch sea salt, plus additional to taste Pinch white pepper, plus additional to taste • Combine all of the ingredients in a non-aluminum bowl. Allow to rest, unrefrigerated, for 2 hours. • Add additional salt, pepper and vinegar to taste.

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home cooking one ingredient, 6 ways: zucchini

season with salt and pepper. Whisk in ¼ cup heavy cream and ¼ cup feta cheese. Garnish with black pepper and more feta.

Gorging on Gourds

4. Moroccan Saute Coat a large saucepan with olive oil over medium heat. Add 1 chopped onion and saute until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon curry powder, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and 2 minced garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute. Add 2 medium sliced zucchini, 3 to 4 cups garbanzo beans, 2 cups diced tomatoes, 2 cups cooked corn and 1 cup water. Bring to a simmer and let simmer for 10 minutes. Add ½ cup freshly chopped cilantro and salt and black pepper to taste. Serve atop cooked couscous.

BY stacy schultz • Photo by jonathan gayman

ou’re surely drowning in bright green gourds by now. Tired of sticking that zucchini on the grill grates and inside creamy gratins? Use the warm-weather squash in these summertime dishes perfect for grown-up garden parties and kid-friendly snacks. 1. Charred Tacos Coat a large skillet with olive oil over high heat. Add raw corn kernels from 2 ears and cook, untouched, for 2 minutes. Toss and repeat until charred on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Add 1 diced medium onion, 1 diced jalapeño and ¹∕³ cup cooked, drained and rinsed black beans. Cook for 1 minute. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook for 30 seconds. Season. Transfer to a bowl. Return pan to high heat, and coat with oil. Add 1 cup chopped zucchini. Cook without moving for 2 minutes. Toss and repeat until charred on all sides. Fold in ¼ cup freshly chopped cilantro and juice of half a lime. Add to bowl with corn and season. Serve on seared corn tortillas with avocado-lime salsa and crumbled feta cheese. 2. Pesto Pulse 1 pound zucchini in a food processor until finely diced. Continue to pulse as you pour in a stream of oil until mixture is smooth. Add 4 garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon dried thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Pulse to combine, adding more oil if needed. Add ¼ cup Parmesan and stir. Toss with cheese tortellini. 3. Soup Peel, chop and boil 1½ cups potatoes until fork-tender. Drain. Coat a Dutch oven with olive oil. Add 1 medium chopped white onion and 1 diced jalapeño, and saute until onions are translucent. Add 3 minced garlic cloves and 6 chopped medium-sized zucchini. Sprinkle with kosher salt and saute for 10 minutes. Add boiled potatoes and 4 cups vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in ½ cup freshly chopped basil. Puree. Return to pot. Add juice of half a lemon,

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* Available at Vom Fass

5. Bruschetta Slice 1 medium zucchini very thinly. Coat heavy saucepan with chili oil* over medium-high heat. Add generous pinch crushed red chile flakes and 2 minced garlic cloves. Saute for 30 seconds. Add zucchini, season with salt and black pepper, and saute until translucent. Remove from heat. Cut loaf of fresh, crusty bread into 6 thick slices. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and place under a hot broiler for 30 to 90 seconds, or until golden on top. Spread with goat cheese and top with zucchini mixture. Serve immediately. 6. Ice Cream Sandwiches Grate ½ pound zucchini, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and drain in fine mesh strainer for 1 hour. Using an electric mixer, cream 2 sticks unsalted, softened butter, 1 cup light brown sugar and ¹∕³ cup granulated sugar until fluffy. Put in a large mixing bowl. To mixing bowl, stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 1 egg with a wooden spoon. In food processor, pulse ¾ cup old-fashioned oats until a sandy texture. Pour in a bowl. Sift in 1¼ cups all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves and ¼ cup whole old-fashioned oats. Whisk to lighten. Stir dry ingredients into creamed mixture in 3 additions. Squeeze zucchini to release any moisture. Gently fold into dough. Stir in 2 tablespoons real maple syrup. Roll dough into a log and freeze for 1 to 2 days. To bake, evenly slice, place on lined baking sheet and bake at 350 for 10 to 18 minutes, or when outsides begin to turn golden. Let cool, then freeze for 30 minutes. Stir 2 tablespoons real maple syrup into 1 pint vanilla bean ice cream. Freeze. To assemble, spread ice cream atop a cookie and top with another cookie. Freeze until ice cream is frozen.

July 2012

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home cooking the new classics: Blt muffins BLT in muffin form … say what? If you love a little savory in the morning, this is the recipe to reach for. At newly opened Pint Size Bakery in South City, the BLT Muffin is loaded with sweet sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, cheese and applewoodsmoked bacon. All the goodness of this time-honored sandwich in pint-sized pastry form? Now that’s a breakfast of champions. – Meera Nagarajan

BLT Muffins 12 to 14 muffins Courtesy of Le Cordon Bleu’s Nancy Bosch 2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour ¼ cup whole-wheat flour 2 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. granulated sugar ½ tsp. salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ cup crumbled or shredded cheese (such as mozzarella, chevre, blue, feta or cheddar) ½ cup applewood-smoked bacon, cooked and crumbled ½ cup spinach, fresh or frozen and thawed, lightly sauteed ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, pre-soaked and chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh basil, finely chopped ½ cup plus ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided ½ cup whole or 2-percent milk ½ cup sour cream (not fat-free) ¹∕³ cup olive oil 1 large egg

My good friend and pastry chef Nancy Bosch has a hankering for savory baked goods in the morning and developed this recipe to satisfy her cravings. We are so lucky that she decided to share it with us at Pint Size, because we make a version of this muffin every day. — Christy Augustin, chef-owner, Pint Size

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Photo by greg rannells

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. • Line a muffin tin with baking cups and set aside. • Combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk to lighten. • Stir in the crumbled or shredded cheese, bacon, spinach, tomatoes, basil and ½ cup of the Parmesan. • In a separate bowl, combine the milk, sour cream, oil and egg. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture, and stir just until combined. The dough may be lumpy, but do not overmix. • Scoop the batter into the lined muffin tin, and sprinkle the top of each muffin with the remaining ¼ cup of Parmesan. • Bake for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

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July 2012

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by meera nagarajan and stacy schultz | photos by greg rannells Call us old-fashioned, but when the weather turns sweltering, all we want is a big bowl of rich, melting ice cream. With so many local sweets shops turning out flavors you have to taste to believe, our pints are going far past chocolate and vanilla. Top a scoop to your heart’s content for a sky-high sundae, or float it in your favorite frothy beverage and sip it through a straw. Heck, even smash it between two quart-sized cookies and take a bite. Grab a spoon – and the sunscreen – it’s time for an ice cream social.

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gingercolada float Take that root beer float to the tropics with this beat-theheat sipper. A few scoops of coconut ice cream add rich creaminess to spicy ginger beer. Try a bottle of Cock â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Bull Ginger Beer for just the right amount of sweet zing.

July 2012

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berries and cream toastie Who said an ice cream sandwich has to include cookies? For this toasty take on the summertime snack, two thick slices of brioche get hot and toasty and then slathered with a rich, dark chocolate and hazelnut spread. Tuck a few fresh berries in there and smash it all between a hearty scoop of cinnamon ice cream. Then hurry up and take a bite before it melts!

Companion’s brioche has just enough sweetness to keep this sandwich firmly in dessert territory.

Love Nutella? Then you’ll go gaga over Askinosie Chocolate Hazelnut Spread, a dark chocolate version made just down the road in nearby Springfield, Mo. Pick up a tub at Winslow’s Home.

St. Louis Cinnamon ice cream from Ronnie’s Ice Cream

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The best way to beat the killer summer heat: Embrace it with a poolside party fit for the whole family. While the kids take a dip, the adults steal a spoonful of Baileys’ Range sensational Salted Caramel. (Top right) It’s a race against the heat as everyone digs into pint after pint of Birthday Cake and Coffee Heath from Dottie’s Ice Cream. Ronnie’s St. Louis Cinnamon ice cream is a surefire standby (bottom, right) while Serendipity’s bright blue Cookie Monster – chock full of cookies and cream – is an instant hit with the wee ones (second row, second from left). The day comes to an end as the kids descend upon the toppings bar (bottom left), filled to the brim with locally made chocolates, candies and cookies.

July 2012

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toppings bar Watch guests’ eyes light up when they spot a toppings bar filled with ripe berries, syrupy sauces and childlike candy from sweets shops all around town. Prefer some savory on your sundae? Can’t go wrong with Companion’s Breaded Bliss – chocolate-covered bread, dusted with coarse salt crystals. Craving a lil’ crunch? Go for Crown Candy’s block candy. Bonus: These Lego-shaped cuties actually stack!

Milk Chocolate Covered Raisins, Crown Candy Kitchen, crowncandykitchen.com

Vanilla-Bean Marshmallows, Kakao Chocolate in Maplewood, kakaochocolate.com

Block Candy, Crown Candy Kitchen, crowncandykitchen.com

Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookies, dadscookies.com Breaded Bliss, Companion, companionstl.com

Coconut Clusters, Crown Candy Kitchen, crowncandykitchen.com

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Almond Clusters, Crown Candy Kitchen, crowncandykitchen.com

July 2012

Salty Banana Sundae This sundae complements the sweet heat of pepperladen chocolate ice cream. Sprinkle banana slices with sugar on a foil-lined baking sheet. Place under a hot broiler for about 2 minutes, or until nice and caramelized on top. Spoon 2 scoops of Three Chili Chocolate ice cream into a dessert bowl. Drizzle with quality extra-virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of Maldon sea salt. And set the bruléed bananas on top for a bit of smoky sweetness.

Three Chili Chocolate ice cream from Baileys’ Range

The scoops of summer | Pick up a pint of our favorite flavors at these spots around town Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream serendipity-icecream.com Blueberry Strawberry Cookie Monster Toasted Marshmallow

July 2012

Anna Marie’s Ice Cream annamariesicecream.com Vanilla

Dottie’s Ice Cream dottiesicecreamstl.com Birthday Cake Coffee Heath

Ronnie’s Ice Cream Facebook: Ronnie’s Ice Cream St. Louis Cinnamon

Baileys’ Range baileysrange.com Salted Caramel Three Chili Chocolate

Tower Grove Creamery towergrovecreamery.com Orange Sherbert

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Gimme S’more St. Louis Sundae Who doesn’t love s’mores in the summertime? For this frosty twist on everyone’s favorite fireside dessert, place 2 scoops of Toasted Marshmallow ice cream in a dessert bowl. Crumble 3 oatmeal cookies, and sprinkle them atop the ice cream. Drizzle with your favorite hot fudge, and top it all off with a toasted vanilla-bean marshmallow.

Double the marshamallow, double the fun. Grab a vanillabean marshmallow at Kakao Chocolate in Maplewood.

Toasted Marshmallow ice cream from Serendipity’s Homemade Ice Cream. It’s like camping without the tent. Graham crackers beware: Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookies are baked fresh locally and ready for the crumbling. Pick up a bag at any area grocery.

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At left: Water Street’s Tequila-Blackberry Sorbet is an adultsonly refresher that keeps things cool on a scorching summer day. Right: Sandwich Pint Size Bakery’s quart-sized cookies with your favorite vanilla ice cream (ours is Anna Marie’s) or an old-fashioned orange sherbert, like the version whipped up at Tower Grove Creamery.

Shot on location at the home of Sean and Marilyn Gannon.

Cranberry Crunch Cookies 4 to 6 dozen small cookies or 1½ dozen “quart-size” cookies Adapted by Pint Size Bakery’s Christy Augustin from a recipe originally published in Southern Living 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened 1 cup packed light brown sugar ²∕³ cup granulated sugar ¼ tsp. kosher salt Zest of half an orange 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 eggs, room temperature 2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 6 oz. Craisins 6 oz. white chocolate chunks July 2012

1 cup sliced almonds, toasted and cooled 3 cups potato chips (plain but salted, such as regular Lays or Ruffles) • In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, sugars, salt and orange zest until light and fluffy. • Scrape the bowl well with a rubber spatula before adding the vanilla and eggs, one at a time, scraping in between additions and mixing until wellemulsified. • In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and baking soda to lighten. Add the dry ingredient mixture to the creamed mixture on low speed, in 2 to 3 additions, until nicely combined. • Add in the Craisins, white

chocolate, almonds and potato chips and mix just until the dough comes together. (There’s no need to crush the potato chips; the mixer will do it for you. Don’t be tempted to mix this by hand or with a hand mixer. There is just too much fabulousness inside for it to turn out well.) • Scoop the dough into uniformly sized balls. For regular-sized cookies, use a tablespoon scoop. For quart-sized cookies, use a 3.2-ounce scoop. Place on a lined baking sheet and freeze until the dough is frozen. • When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the dough balls from the freezer, unwrap and place on a lined cookie sheet. • Bake for 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the size, or until they turn lightly golden around the edges and are slightly

undercooked in the center. Allow to cool. To make these quart-sized cookies into jumbo ice cream sandwiches, freeze them until they’ve hardened. Next, spread a heaping spoonful of vanilla ice cream or orange sherbert in the middle and top with another cookie. Freeze until ready to serve.

Tequila-Blackberry Sorbet approximately 2 quarts Courtesy of Water Street’s Maria Kveton 1 cup sugar 2 cups water 4 cups blackberries

²∕³ cup fresh lime juice 3 oz. Cointreau 3 oz. Corrido Tequila Blanco • In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and the water over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. • In the bowl of a food processor, purée the blackberries until they reach a smooth consistency. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a large mixing bowl. • To the berries, add the syrup, Cointreau and tequila. Place in the refrigerator for about 2 hours, covered. • Add the mixture to an ice cream maker and run the ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions for about 20 minutes. • Serve immediately or freeze.

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burger kings This one goes out to all the vegetarians out there

Falafel Sliders p. 46

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By Ligaya Figueras | Photos by Carmen Troesser July 2012

Italian Bean Burger page 46

July 2012

When thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pasta in the patty, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go wrong with the flavors of Italia. Top these Italian beauties with bibb lettuce, sauteed red onion and sweet-roasted red peppers. A nicely aged Pecorino and a smear of sun-dried tomato pesto will whisk you away to the cobblestone streets of Rome.

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only the beans and grains in the food processor, then stir in the remaining ingredients.

recipe is analogous to a roadmap. You can choose to follow it or not. The adventurous types eschew the map and rely instead on their orienteering instincts. Or they just follow their whimsy. Others trust Google Maps to guide their course, only to find that misguided directions lead to a dead end. I don’t like dead ends. When I zip around St. Louis, I rely on Wunnenberg’s Street Guides to get me where I want to go. They never fail me. (Credit my civil engineer husband who breathes roads and bridges for a living for turning me onto this reliable old-school guide.) When it comes to recipes for veggie burgers, I’ve encountered instructions that have led to more wrong turns than an outdated GPS. Why don’t all veggie burger recipes have Wunnenberg’s precision? Because there are so many variables – so much “construction” blocking the way.

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If your experience of driving meatless in burgerland is anything like mine, you’ve tasted more than your fair share of “meh” patties (a few, admittedly, by my own hand). Too wet. Too dry. Bland and blah. But in consuming many a mistake, I’ve learned a few tricks for maneuvering through plant-based burger territory. Texture is one of the trickiest hurdles to tackle. Sometimes, I want the cohesive yet rough texture of a meat burger; other times I want a smooth patty to counter the crunchy vegetation I’ll pile on top. The type and grind of the primary filler – whether it’s a lowly bean or a combination of a legume and a grain – are the usual suspects that lead to dry, crumbly veggie burgers. I counter that threat by cooking my own beans so I can control the cooking time. I want them slightly overcooked so that they break down easily in the food processor. (I also warm them slightly before processing them.) When seeking to replicate the coarseness and density of an all-beef burger, pulse

It’s apparent that you have a “wet” burger on your hands when the patties are too moist to hold shape. How can you combat all that excess moisture? First, drain cooked beans very well; even go so far as to spread them on layers of paper towels and blot them dry. For grains, drain them in a sieve and then press down with a spatula to really get the water out. When using raw veggies (such as in the shredded radish in the Black Bean and Edamame Burger at right), toss the vegetables in a bit of salt, let them sit for a spell, then press out the moisture. This lets the veggies release their inner water. Finally, when a recipe calls for refrigerating the prepared patties, don’t set them directly on a baking sheet. Instead, line the sheet with a paper towel and you’ll have firmer patties. The binding holds the burger together and helps keep it balanced on the drywet scale. An egg is typical glue for a veggie burger, but finely processed nuts (or nut butters), mushrooms or tofu can also do the trick. One binding I recently discovered is overcooked pasta. Try it in the Italian Veggie Burger recipe on page 46, and play around with eggless pastas to develop some new vegan versions all your own. Beans and grains taste bland on their own. Seasonings bring them to life. Without spices, fresh herbs and vegetables, that burger will be as boring as all those carnivorous haters

claim it to be. Coming up with flavor profiles is one of the creative aspects to building your own burger recipe. Will you take the south-of-the-border route with black beans and work in the flavor and heat of, say, chile peppers? Maybe you want to take a Mediterranean tour and explore how well fresh basil, oregano and parsley marry with cannellinis. There’s always the Indian side of the culinary globe where you can match garbanzo beans or lentils to suit your own curry blend. As for fresh herbs, be generous when tossing those into the burger mix; they’re milder than dried and you want to pack in as much flavor as you can. To extract a softer, even sweet flavor from veggies that taste sharp in their raw state like onions, garlic and peppers, consider sauteing them first. While the taste of the patty itself most certainly matters, the toppings are what make that burger a regular on your dinner table. Take into account texture, color and flavor combinations as you slice fresh produce, whip up quick sauces and cut slivers of bold cheeses to dress things up. Travelling in veggie burgerland doesn’t have to be full of wrong turns. For exacting results, turn to the recipes that follow. And if you like to cook sans map – er, recipe – have fun blazing the meatless trail as you fill ‘er up with other ingredients that are sure to convince even die-hard carnivores to take a veggie burger excursion every now and then. Recipes on page 46.

July 2012

Black Bean and Edamame Burger page 46

July 2012

Top this earthy patty with fresh-from-the-garden flavors of rubyred tomatoes, crunchy pea shoots and buttery avocado. Add a splash of apple-cider vinegar and a pinch of salt to horseradish mayo to give this better-for-you burger a bit of fiery attitude.

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recipes Falafel Sliders 12 appetizer servings 1 cup bulgur, uncooked 2 cups garbanzo beans, cooked and drained well 1 tsp. baking soda 5 Tbsp. flour, divided, plus additional as needed 4 to 5 large cloves garlic ¼ to ½ tsp. ground red pepper 1 tsp. freshly ground cumin seeds 2 tsp. freshly ground coriander seeds ½ tsp. ground tumeric 1 egg ½ tsp. salt Oil for cooking 12 slider buns • Bring 3 cups of water to a boil in a pot. Remove from heat, add the bulgur and let soak for 30 minutes, or until very soft. Drain well of excess water. • Combine in a food processor: cooked bulgur, garbanzos, baking soda, 3 tablespoons of flour, garlic, ground red pepper, cumin, coriander, tumeric, egg and salt. Process until the mixture reaches the consistency of a paste that’s smooth but not so moist that you are unable to work it into small balls. If too wet, add 2 tablespoons of flour and mix well. • Shape into 12 small round balls. Set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and refrigerate for 30 minutes. • Heat a large saute pan over medium heat with enough oil to coat the pan. Working in batches, place the falafel balls in the pan and use a grill spatula to flatten them into the shape of small patties. Cook the sliders for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook for 2 more minutes, or until cooked through. • Serve on slider buns with suggested toppings. Toppings: Yogurt sauce (see below) Cucumber slices

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Tomato slices Feta cheese For the yogurt sauce: Stir together ½ cup of Greek yogurt, juice of half a lemon, 1 minced garlic clove, 2 tablespoons of freshly chopped parsley and a generous pinch of salt.

Italian Bean Burgers 6 servings 2 cups white beans, cooked and drained well 1½ cups tightly packed, overcooked rigatoni (It should be very soft.), drained well Olive oil for cooking 1 medium red onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes ¼ cup fresh basil, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh oregano, finely chopped ½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped ¾ tsp. salt 6 wheat buns, lightly toasted • Slightly warm the white beans and pasta in the microwave. Working in batches, if necessary, use a food processor to process the beans and pasta until they reach a paste consistency. Transfer to a large bowl. • Heat 1½ teaspoons of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it softens. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from heat and let cool. When cooled, add the onion and garlic to the bean and pasta mixture. • Process the sun-dried tomatoes in a food processer until finely chopped. Add to the bean and pasta mixture. • Stir in the fresh herbs. Season with salt, adjusting to taste if necessary. • Mash together until the mixture is firm enough to shape into patties. • Using your hands, shape the mixture

into 6 patties. Set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and refrigerate for 30 minutes. • Heat a large saute pan over medium heat with enough oil to coat the pan. Working in batches, cook the burgers for 4 minutes. Flip and cook for 4 more minutes, or until cooked through. • Serve on lightly toasted wheat buns with suggested toppings. Toppings: Sun-dried tomato pesto Bibb lettuce Sauteed red onion slices Aged pecorino or, for bolder flavor, Gorgonzola Piccante* Roasted red pepper slices, jarred in olive oil * Both cheeses available at The Wine Merchant, winemerchantltd.com

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Black Bean and Edamame Burgers

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8 servings 2 cups black beans, cooked and drained 1 cup edamame, shelled and cooked ½ cup shredded radish Generous pinch plus ¾ tsp. salt, divided Olive oil for cooking 1 cup chopped red onion 1 Fresno chile pepper, seeded and chopped 1 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped 1 egg ¾ cup stone-ground cornmeal 1 to 2 tsp. ancho chile powder, depending on taste 8 wheat kaiser buns, lightly toasted • Slightly warm the black beans and edamame in the microwave. Working in batches, if necessary, use a food processor to pulse the beans and edamame until they are coarsely chopped. The mixture should be

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slightly cohesive but still roughly textured. Set aside. Place the shredded radish in a small bowl, sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and let sit. Meanwhile heat 1½ teaspoons of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and chile pepper, and cook until the onion becomes translucent. Add the onion and chile pepper to the bean and edamame mixture in the food processor, and pulse until the mixture is combined and the chile pepper is finely minced. Place the radish in a sieve and press down hard using a spatula to remove any excess moisture. Add the radish and cilantro to the bean and edamame mixture, and pulse a few more times in the food processor. Add the egg and process until all of the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the cornmeal, chile powder and ¾ teaspoon of salt. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Shape the mixture into 8 patties. Set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Heat a large saute pan over medium heat with enough oil to coat the pan. Working in batches, cook the burgers for 4 minutes. Flip and cook for 4 more minutes, or until cooked through. Serve on lightly toasted wheat kaiser buns with suggested toppings.

Toppings: Horseradish mayonnaise (Add a splash of apple cider vinegar and a pinch of salt to store-bought versions.) Avocado slices Tomato slices Pea shoots

July 2012

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July 2012

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stuff to do:

this month by Byron Kerman

The Monday Night Minimalist July 9 – 6 to 9 p.m., Schnucks Cooks Cooking School · 314.909.1704 schnuckscooks.com You say Mark Bittman, and we say very little. That’s because Bittman, famous for his Minimalist column in The New York Times (and a program of the same name on the Cooking Channel), is all about brevity and simplicity in the kitchen. The gang at the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School has assembled a group of Bittman’s recipes for a one-night class, starring fresh chickpeas with grilled Italian sausage, spicy jumbo shrimp salad with mint, classic brick chicken, crispy-grilled asparagus with lemon dressing, and profiteroles with ganache. Lucy Schnuck teaches the handson class, where wine will accompany the meal.

Herbal Cookery: From the Kitchens & Gardens of The St. Louis Herb Society July 9, Dierbergs – Bogey Hills · 636.669.0049 dierbergs.com The St. Louis Herb Society keeps it fresh and not dried, and its collaboration with Dierbergs for a cooking class sounds fun and enlightening. Get the party started with a refreshing lemon-verbena Champagne cocktail, and move on to creating crab cakes with lemonherb aioli, chicken en papillote, basil-corn

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salad, focaccia with fresh herb butter, and a blackberry-basil tart that couldn’t be any more summery. The class is taught by Mary Hammer of the St. Louis Herb Society and Sally Bruns of the Dierbergs School of Cooking. Check out the website above to see when the same class will be taught again at many other Dierbergs locations throughout the area in August.

Pesto Festo July 14 – 8 a.m. to noon, Ferguson Farmers Market 314.521.1006 earthdancefarms.org We may need a rickshaw to get home after eating a bowl of hearty pesto pasta in St. Louis in the heat of July, but we’d gladly pay for the privilege. The EarthDance Farms Pesto Festo benefit returns to the Ferguson Farmers Market this month, with pesto-cooking demos by area chefs, a pesto contest open to all comers, and bowls of thick, basil-clotted pesto pasta available to fortify guests. The fun benefits Earthdance, a 129-year-old, 14-acre organic farm (formerly the Mueller Farm) right there in Ferguson. At the event, you’re sure to enjoy the charms of the Ferguson market, including vendors offering Ludwig Farmstead Creamery cheeses, local honey, pastries by El Chico Bakery, Organo Gold Coffee, fresh flowers and crafts galore, plus live jazz.

St. Louis Occasional Barbeque Society July 22 – 2 to 7 p.m., Tom’s Bar & Grill · 314.367.4900 slobsbbq.com Oh, S.L.O.B.S. We love your acronym, and we like your style. The St. Louis

Occasional Barbeque Society pits (pun intended) teams from 15 to 30 city and county restaurants, bars and individuals against one another in monthly competitions during the barbecuin’ season. The first at Iron Barley in May raised $13,000 for charity. This month finds the action at Tom’s Bar & Grill in the Central West End, with teams from Iron Barley, The Famous Bar and plenty of other institutions grilling up ribs and brisket (The meats change each month.). Twenty bucks gets you unlimited sampling, and half of the admission fee goes to the USO, with the other half designated for the Ronald McDonald House (The charities change each month, too.). Feel like competing? You can sign up at the website above and go up against the barbecuin’ bigwigs.

Basics class that spotlights the latest in outback appliances, pots, utensils, crockery, techniques and so on. You don’t sleep on the bare ground like Walt Whitman when you go camping; you don’t have to eat like a pauper, either.

Camp Cooking Basics July 23 – 7 to 8:30 p.m., St. Louis REI 314.918.1004 rei.com Are you the sort of person who eats a hot dog stabbed onto the end of a stick for dinner while camping? Or are you the sort of person who, while tenting in the middle of a remote range, casually whips up coq au vin with a side of forest-mushroom risotto and an amusing elderberry sorbet as a digestif? Either way – we’re not judging here – you’ll surely have fun, but there’s no harm in learning about the tenets of campout cooking. The retail specialists at REI host a periodic, free Camp Cooking

Peach Pedal Bicycle Ride July 29 – 7:30 to 11 a.m., Mills Apple Farm, Marine, Ill. 314.436.1324 · trailnet.org A bucolic bike ride through the country, past spectacular peach orchards, that ends with peach pie? Is this heaven? (No, it’s Marine, Ill.) Trailnet’s annual Peach Pedal offers a 22-, 32-, 38- or 53-mile route along flat terrain and gently rolling hills. The invigorating, circuitous ride has the sweetest of endings: You’ll brake at the Mills Apple Farm for fresh-baked peach pies, other sweets and fresh peaches to take home. Call or hit the website above to register. July 2012

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