southern comforts
bellissima bellini ∙ jackfruit carnitas ∙ strange doughnut duo t. l o u i s ’ i n d e p e n d e n t c u l i n a r y a u t h o r i t y Julys 2013
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E E , ju ly 2 013I 1 saucemagazine.comFI RSAUCE MAGAZINE
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July 2013
July 2013
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39 contents july 2013
13 A La Carte
Reviews 21 new and notable: Pan D’Olive by Michael Renner
32
25 Nightlife: Robust by Matt Berkley
26 Cook’s Books: Fresh Ideas for Summer's Bounty by julie cohen
Home cooking 29 the ultimate: Bellini by Meera Nagarajan
21
32 Vegetize it: Carnitas Jacked Up Carnitas by Kellie Hynes
34 One ingredient, 3 ways: Okra Okraphobic No More by Dee Ryan
36 By Popular Demand Eleven Eleven Mississippi's Shrimp
features
14
cover details
39 short list
& Corn Bisque
House margarita
Last course
by Matt Berkley
49 Stuff to do by byron Kerman
50 a chat with: Corey Smale and Tyler Fenwick by Ligaya Figueras
40 Southern Comforts Savoring dishes from below the Mason-Dixon line by Stacy Schultz
(Flip your magazine over for a big surprise!) What are your favorite places to eat, drink and shop? We asked; you voted. We tallied, then tallied again. Check out our annual Readers' Choice to see this year's results, which include quite a few surprises, as well as justifiably repeat victors. A big Saucy congratulations to all of the 2013 winners! - Photo by Ashley Gieseking
Strawberry-infused moonshine at Hendricks BBQ p.40
Photo by Greg Rannells bellissima bellini p. 29 jackfruit carnitas p. 32 strange doughnut duo p. 50
= recipe on this page
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letter from the editor
C
hef Josh Galliano’s wild hare raviolo ranks among the best dishes I have ever eaten. Galliano prepared it for me back in the fall of 2007 when he was chef de cuisine at An American Place, and I was writing my first
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article for Sauce. I still remember the deep, meaty flavor and silky texture of the broth in which that delicate, open-faced raviolo sat half-submerged. Oh, my goodness! Talk of this dish surfaced recently in a conversation I had with chef Rick
Just as it takes many talented, dedicated people to make a restaurant thrive, teamwork and camaraderie are essential to the success of our entire food community. That’s why on the cover of our annual Readers’ Choice (Flip the magazine over to see this year’s results.), you won’t see just one local chef who killed it this year, but four. The St. Louis food scene is stronger than ever, evidenced by the nearly 200 different people, restaurants, bars, shops and markets listed among this year’s Readers’ Choice winners. This month, the theme of choice carries over to our main issue. Contributor Matt Berkley consumed
quite a few margaritas as part of the vetting process to declare the top three places in town for ordering this classic Mexican cocktail (p. 39). In “Southern Comforts,” Stacy Schultz explores how area chefs are opting to add a bit of southern charm to the menu (p. 40) (Look at all the deviled eggs!). Find out how to substitute jackfruit for pork in carnitas (p. 32); eat a standard doughnut or try a strange one (p. 50). Whatever you choose, our goal at Sauce remains the same: to share with you new tasty dishes and drinks from around town without forgetting about those that are tried and true – like wild hare raviolo.
Cheers,
Photo by greg rannells
Lewis of Quincy Street Bistro. I didn’t know it back in ‘07, but Lewis was a line cook at An American Place and part of the culinary team that helped Galliano prepare his wild game dishes, one of which landed on the cover of the January 2008 issue. Success always takes a team, doesn’t it?
Ligaya Figueras Executive editor
July 2013
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ju ly 2 013 • VO LUM E 13, Issue 7 @allysonmace
Allyson Mace @ligayafigueras Ligaya Figueras Meera Nagarajan @meera618 Julie Cohen @julieannacohen Catherine Klene Ligaya Figueras Amy De La Hunt Rosa Heyman, Rebecca Ryan Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth Jochum, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Vidhya Nagarajan CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Bryon Kerman, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Stacy Schultz RELATIONS DIRECTOR Erin Keplinger OFFICE MANAGER Rebecca Ryan ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Angie Rosenberg ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES Rachel Gaertner, Jill George, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Bruce Prediger ACCOUNT MANAGER Jill George INTERN Will Diemer
PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR contributing editor Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
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SEND A $25 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@ saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2013 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
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•
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
July 2013
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We’re (obviously) big proponents of print here, yet we can’t help but squeal at all that the digital age offers. Did you know how many ways you can enjoy Sauce Magazine these days? From your computer screen to your tablet, even your phone, the options are nearly endless. Here are a few new ways to connect with us all month long. Thanks, Internet. We owe you one.
Sometimes you want to cook at home. Other days you feel like eating out. Same here. That’s why we’re switching up one of our blog columns, Meatless Monday. Now, we give you the best of both worlds, alternating weekly between a veg dish to cook at home and a terrific meal sans meat that we found around town. Head to the blog on SauceMagazine. com every Monday to learn where we’re dining and what we’re cooking in the kitchen – all of it meatless, of course.
In this month’s Hit List (p.19), read about three restaurants that recently opened, and then head to SauceMagazine.com/restaurantvideos to watch a video about another newbie, Panorama, at Saint Louis Art Museum. Sauce publisher Allyson Mace takes you inside SLAM’s new east wing for a tour of the fine dining restaurant and a chat with Panorama executive chef Edward Farrow.
facebook.com/saucemagazine | twitter.com/saucemag | pinterest.com/saucemagazine | instagram.com/saucemag
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pizza photo by beth styles
From Bellinis (p.29) to daiquiris (p.15) to Berliner Weisse-style beers (p.15), the drinkin’ is good this time of year. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, July 19 at noon and 10 p.m., to hear two Sauce contributing writers, cocktail expert Ted Kilgore and beer guru Cory King, share their tips for beating the heat with a cool summer drink.
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EAT THIS
Sure, you could start your game-watching session at CIRCLE 7 RANCH with fries or pretzel sticks, but opt for the FAT DADDY PICKLE COINS instead. Dunk each deep-fried, panko-crusted sliver into the house-made ranch dressing, then Photo by carmen troesser
savor how the cool, creamy sauce counters the briny dill pickles with their salty-spicy kick. Bar food that’s gone before you can refill your beer glass is bar food at its best. Circle 7 Ranch • 14412 Clayton Road, Ballwin • 636.220.9707 • circle7ranch.com
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MAKE THIS zucchini salad
This Shaved Zucchini Salad is a triple threat: beautiful, healthy and easy enough to dig into in mere minutes. Wash and trim the ends of 4 zucchini. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the zucchini into flat, 1∕8-inch-thick ribbons. Add the ribbons to a bowl along with the kernels from 1 ear of fresh, raw corn, 2 thinly sliced green onions and a chiffonade of basil (a little if you like it, a lot if you love it). Toss the salad with a dressing of equal parts lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil and a touch of honey to taste. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then top things off with a poached egg, a dollop of fresh ricotta or a sprinkle of shaved Parmesan cheese. — Meera Nagarajan
active time: 10 minutes
photo by greg rannells
Stop by the Riverbend Roots Farm booth at the Clayton Farmers Market on Saturdays from 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. to pick up some locally grown zucchini.
Clayton Farmers Market 8282 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, claytonfarmersmarket.com
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A Seat at the Bar Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
buy it
dark chocolate-caramel-sea salt popcorn
When a bag of Chef’s Shoppe dark chocolate-caramelsea salt popcorn recently got into our hands, even the most disciplined eaters among us could not refrain. The caramelflavored popcorn is seasoned perfectly with the salt, while the amount of dark chocolate drizzled atop the freshly popped kernels isn’t so much that it coats them to a sickening sweetness. In a summer of subpar sequels and mindless action flicks, this movie snack is our blockbuster – and diet-buster – of the season. — Ligaya Figueras
ted and jamie kilgore USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and coowners/bartenders at Planter’s House (opening soon)
$3.50 and up. Chef’s Shoppe, 2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, Ill., 618.659.9840, chefsshoppe.com
COOK'S TIP how to cut corn off the cob without making a mess
popcorn photo by michelle volansky; illustrations by vidhya nagarajan
Fresh corn always beats out the canned stuff, but cutting those tiny little kernels from the cob tends to make a mess in the kitchen. This summer, make the most of the freshly shucked ears you grabbed at the farmers market with this easy trick. Place a large bowl on a work surface. Place a small bowl with a wide, flat bottom upside down inside the larger bowl. Then, place an ear of corn (cut-sidedown) atop the small bowl so that it sits flat on the bowl’s base (aka your new cutting board). Now, get cutting. As the sweet kernels are sliced from the cob, they fall neatly into the large bowl beneath, making it a cinch to stir them into salads, saute them into street corn or – quite honestly – pop ‘em in your mouth for a cool, refreshing snack. — Stacy Schultz July 2013
cory king Certified Cicerone, head brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales and founder of Side Project Brewing
glenn bardgett Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s
July 19 is National Daiquiri Day. Celebrate with us by shaking together 2 oz. rum, ¾ oz. fresh lime juice and ¾ oz. simple syrup. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and enjoy the slightly tart, sweet perfection of this classic drink. You’ll be surprised to find that the balanced simplicity of a hand-shaken daiquiri is nothing like a frozen slushie. It’s traditionally made with white rum (like Flor de Caña Dry), but try using an aged rum (like Plantation Grande Reserve) to give it a fuller flavor. And for even more variety, experiment with muddling in fresh, seasonal fruits before shaking.
One of my favorite styles of beer is the Berliner Weisse. Until recently, finding a Berliner Weisse was almost impossible; yet, today, there are more breweries in the United States producing this very light, tart, German wheat ale than there are in Berlin, where the style originated. Berliner Weisses are usually a vibrant, cloudy yellow with a big, rocky head and aromas of raw wheat and earthy must. They’re extremely refreshing, landing at around 3 percent ABV. Among German imports, look for 1809 by Professor Fritz Briem. For a locally made variety, try Prussia from 4 Hands Brewing Co. or Peach Berliner Weisse from Perennial Artisan Ales.
Stone Hill Winery winemaker Dave Johnson and I hold the distinction of being the only two people to attend all 25 years of the winery’s 10-year vertical Norton tasting. Every April, 10 Riedel glasses specifically designed for our Norton grape are placed in front of the 100-plus guests, who see, swirl and sniff a decade of wines. The 2012 tank sample was exotically fruity, but since it’s going to be a couple of years before it’s released, I’ll bide my time sipping on another favorite, the amazing 2005 Stone Hill Winery Norton, which has the perfect balance of fruit concentration and tannin that arrives with a bit of bottle age.
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A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now by stacy schultz
UMAMI IN A BOTTLE
less is more
Considering folks are aging just about everything these days and the fact that so many chefs covet fish sauce as their secret weapon, we should’ve seen this one coming. Sneak into the kitchens at Blood & Sand, the come-and-gone A Good Man is Hard to Find and newly opened The Libertine, and you’ll find a bottle of BLiS Barrel-Aged Fish Sauce. For this condiment, Red Boat Fish Sauce gets aged for seven months in bourbon barrels that have already worked their magic on BLiS maple syrup. The result: a rich sauce with slight sweetness and subtle smokiness that lets chefs infuse umami into just about anything.
When Niche opened the doors to its new Clayton home with a tasting menu-only format, the shift was met with both excitement and frustration. But the renowned fine-dining restaurant (that just added a five-course, Italian-focused test kitchen menu on Mondays) isn’t the only one testing the local waters with limited options. Diners at nearby Little Country Gentleman must opt for either the three-course menu or the grand tasting menu (The latter, numbering around 16 courses, has dropped in price to $78 a head.), while Anthony Devoti is offering a five-course taster at Five Bistro on The Hill. Will we see more fine-dining spots move in this direction? Considering the creative license such a pared-down approach lends the chef, we sure hope so.
filling up on food tours Why go to dinner at one restaurant when you can eat an appetizer at one, enjoy an entree at another, nibble dessert at the one next door and have a nightcap just down the street? That’s the idea behind STL Culinary Tours, Dishcrawl and Savor Saint Louis, three businesses offering food tours of our city’s most food-filled streets and neighborhoods.
THANK YOU FOR SMOKING Barbecue spots may be spreading like wildfire around these parts, but it’s the smoke in our glasses that really has us talking. After a cold-smoke infusion of the bartenders’ wood chips of choice, the liquor becomes a sort of paintbrush, casting its smoky stroke on everything it touches. Dive right in with the smoked-vermouthladen High on the Hog at Hendricks BBQ or the cold-smoked Aperol in The Last Word at Cielo. For a milder entry into this smoker-to-sipper trend, try the High Rise at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood and Mike Shannon’s Grill, where a flicker of smoke deepens as the cold-smoked ice melts.
HE A D, SHOUL DE R S , E A R S A ND T OE S You’ve had pig’s face and feet, butt and belly. The latest body part to benefit from the nose-totail trend: pig’s ears. We had ‘em deep-fried as a rich counter to hearty kale in a sprightly salad this spring at pop-up restaurant A Good Man Is Hard to Find, and we’ve sliced into the naturally chewy meat rendered silken in a terrine at Farmhaus.
whiteout
R I D I N G T H E T H I R D WAV E
When YellowTree Farm’s Justin Leszcz grows it, the chefs will come. The latest crop making its way onto menus? Japanese white sweet potatoes. Find them stuffed – along with housemade chorizo – into a taco at Mission Taco Joint or head to Mission’s sister restaurant, Milagro Modern Mexican, where chorizo and sweet potato are the filling for empanadas or turned into a tasty hash. At Farmhaus, the veggie is cozying up to house-smoked ham and scallops, while at The Agrarian, it is embracing its Asian roots with curried rice.
When Scott Carey first opened the doors to his third-wave coffee bar Sump Coffee, he wasn’t sure anyone would be willing to wait for his hand-brewed methods and precisely pulled espresso shots. Two years later, the South City spot is the watering hole of choice for the city’s coffee-loving cognoscenti. And with local coffee chain Kaldi’s launching a renewed focus on hand-brew techniques at all of its cafes, it’s easier than ever to get a taste of coffee’s third wave no matter where you live. Stop by Picasso’s Coffee House in St. Charles, Comet Coffee in Dogtown, VB Chocolate Bar in Cottleville and two soon-to-open spots – Rise Coffee House in The Grove and Blueprint Coffee in The Loop – for a hand-brewed cup.
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photo by jonathan gayman
The High Rise at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood and Mike Shannon’s Grill
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hit list
3 New Restaurants to Try This Month
1
Tree House 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.696.2100, Facebook: Tree House Vegetarian Restaurant
2
Hiro Asian Kitchen 1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.214.4476, hiroasiankitchen.com
Vegetarians are giddy for the arrival of Tree House. The culinary crew at this restaurant seeks to push the envelope with meatless fare, offering house-made vegetarian charcuterie – terrines, pates, nut cheeses (A vegan sausage is coming soon.) – as well as meat-free takes on typically carnivorous chow like sliders and burgers. Whether in a small plate of fried beets sprinkled with togarashi and served with a vegan garlic aioli, or in a heftier bite like a banh mi smeared with house-made mushroom pate, Tree House uses a global pantry to showcase fresh produce at its peak. The love for fruit and veggies carries over to the bar, where we’re sipping on beetcentric cocktail, The Roots.
photos by michelle volansky
3
Table 1821 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.449.1888, tablestl.com
July 2013
Asian comfort food is the focus at Hiro Asian Kitchen, newly opened on Washington Avenue downtown. Appetizers like sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf, an assortment of steamed bao buns or chicken wings with roasted peanuts and gochujang pair perfectly with the restaurant’s selection of sake. Among entrees, pick from ramen, fried rice and banh mi or try one of the house specialties, such as Malaysian-style bak kut teh, a steamy bowl of soup studded with meaty pork ribs and enoki mushrooms and served with strips of fried dough for dipping.
From chef Cassy Vires and her husband Josh Renbarger, the team behind Home Wine Kitchen in Maplewood, comes a new restaurant in Benton Park. There isn’t a two-top in sight; instead, long wooden tables bring people together to dine communally on creative, new American cuisine. Try the pork cheek ragu with smoked tomato, fresh ricotta and grilled bread, or the Ozark Forest Mushroom “escargot,” a mushroom paste stuffed into snail shells and given a flourish of flavor with a hit of lemon juice, briny capers, parsley and garlic. With a sundae bar featuring toppings like strawberry-rhubarb purée and cookie crumbles to spoon atop a bowl of house-made ice cream, you bet we’re saving room for dessert. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
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reviews
new and notable: pan d'olive p. 21 nightlife: robust p. 25 cook’s books: summer books p. 26
New and Notable: Pan D’Olive by Michael Renner • Photos by elizabeth jochum
W
hile Pan D’Olive, the panMediterranean restaurant housed in the former Mihalis Chophouse on McCausland Avenue, is not new (It opened in November 2012.), it is notable for a few reasons. First, there’s the affordability: Most entrees are in the mid-teens and no meze is over 10 bucks. And happy hour revelers can truly revel over the $3 select cocktails and house wines, $2 draft beers, $1 select small plates and half-price flatbreads. Then there is the space: sleek and stylish, with acres of dark wood, lots of subdued lighting and a spacious, multilevel layout, including the bar area with its illuminated bar top and striking mezzanine lounge. Most notable, though: Pan D’Olive is Sam Kacar’s newest Pan D’Olive venture since closing his two 1603 McCausland Ave., Trattoria Branica restaurants St. Louis, 314.647.8000, and relinquishing the third to www.pandolivestl.com his ex-wife, who still operates the Italian eatery at its original Frontenac location. On the website, Kacar calls the cuisine at Pan D’Olive, “Mediterranean with a California twist … focused on the Greek and Turkish influences of the region.”
Lobster ravioli
July 2013
Considering Kacar’s description and the restaurant’s name, as expected, Pan D’Olive serves olive bread, Companion’s rustic loaf made with Kalamata olives. A couple of slices are served in a basket, along with some French bread and squares of fried flatbread dough. Olive oil is poured for dipping, but it lacks the fruity, acrid pungency of great oil. A couple can make a meal of a few small plates and a salad. But, as with the olive oil, I was anticipating more flavor. A cold meze of leeks and carrots with rice, lemon, parsley and a bit of vegetable broth – a classic southern Turkish dish (recently removed from the menu) − lacked the expected citrus zing and tasted more like cold soup. Slices of pan-fried eggplant were bitter. While the arancini, made with Gorgonzola, steak and potato and served atop thick marinara saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
review new and notable: pan D'olive redolent with herbs and citrus, which the kitchen wisely serves under the bird rather than ruining the crisp skin by dousing it with sauce. Of the pastas, the lobster ravioli was satisfying in an old-school sort of way, a comforting dish of pasta stuffed with sweet lobster meat served in a thick sherry cream sauce with rock shrimp, tomatoes and spinach. The rusticity of capellini, tossed with capers, roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and sliced Kalamata olives, was punctuated by the sneaky heat of the spicy, light tomato sauce.
Phyllo cigars
There’s a fancy wine book, but you may as well stick to the wines listed on the menu, where a bottle won’t set you back more than $32 and most wines by the glass are around 8 bucks. The most disappointing entree on the menu is also the most expensive: At $25 and a thin quarter- to half-inch in thickness, the charbroiled rib-eye steak was more like a pricey breakfast steak. Walnut-encrusted trout got me thinking of how much I love the pecan-encrusted salmon at Frazer’s in Soulard, how much I love trout and how delicious the combination of trout and walnuts sounded. What arrived was a perfectly fine piece of pan-seared fish − flaky and simple, glistening with lemon butter − but with only a smattering of chopped walnuts pressed into the flesh, the larger bits burnt and bitter. sauce, did have good contrasting flavors, some of the rice in the middle was cold. Fried phyllo cigars, long cylinders
stuffed with feta cheese and herbs served with a yogurt dill dipping sauce, finally delivered the goods.
All is not lost, though. The $13 roasted rosemary chicken is a bargain: A frenched breast (a.k.a. airline cut) with sherry jus − always a good companion to rosemary −
Four desserts are offered, including creme brulee that, while flavorful, was not set properly, and baklava made with simple syrup rather than the traditional honey, which, oddly, made the phyllo pastry taste like a glazed doughnut. There are many seating options, including the expansive, windowless room downstairs. Unless you’re part of a private party, lobby to sit upstairs where the action is. Angle for one of the four secluded dining alcoves or the side patio overlooking the parking lot, usually packed with high-end vehicles. Pan D’Olive is fun, affordable, lively and attractive − a good spot for a glass and a nosh − so it’s hardly an unpleasant experience. It’s just notably unremarkable.
AT A GLANCE : pan d'olive WHERE Pan D’Olive, 1603 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.8000, pandolivestl.com
DON’T-MISS DISHES Phyllo cigars, rosemary chicken, lobster ravioli
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VIBE The multilevel, spacious, sleek and busy space is usually full of mostly well-heeled diners of a certain age, which explains the packed parking lot of high-end vehicles.
ENTREE PRICES $12 to $25
WHEN Happy Hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 7 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 9:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. − 5 to 10:30 p.m., Sun. − 5 to 9 p.m. July 2013
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review
Nightlife: Robust
nightlife: Robust
by Matt berkley • Photos by Elizabeth Jochum
individual placemats are more than a little mawkish and over-the-top. (My syrah did not open into a palate of cracked peppercorn and leather as promised. I’m kind of glad it didn’t.) Regardless, Robust the flights are a good time – 635 Washington especially if they kick you out Ave., St. Louis, of your comfort zone, if only 314.287.6300, for a few sips. I opted for the robustwinebar.com “Take Me to Bed Reds,” a trio of reds that included two wellput-together, easy-sipping European blends (one hailing from the Côtes du Rhone region and the other from Tuscany), plus a glass of nonsense syrah zinfandel from California. All were hailed by a waiter whose indiscriminate enthusiasm for, well, everything on the menu proved frustrating. My personal favorite was a beautifully tall, 6-ounce pour of full-bodied Chateau Saint Genes, a dark blend of merlot, cabernet and Malbec that’s well worth the $14-per-glass price tag. Unfortunately, it’s no longer on the menu.
T
he buzz in the air on a Friday night at Robust is enough to deter any thoughts of Washington Avenue losing its after-hours steam. Stationed on the corner of Seventh Street and Washington, Robust is a few blocks away from the neon madness and pubclub scene. Yet people are finding it. By 9 p.m., there’s a standing line behind the neat row of bar stools filled with chatty, attractive patrons who bask under a shower of metal rods that feign an indoor storm – the centerpiece in what is an almost theatrically designed space. Wraparound windows provide an enjoyable ground-level view of this previously neglected block of Washington Avenue, which has recently seen the addition of a handful of other eateries – Pi, Snarf’s and Takaya – as well as MX Movies. A Webster Groves Robust 2.0 this place is not. The owners swung for the fences with this space, which has infinitely more raw charm and late-night appeal than its county sibling. Conversation, rather than music, plays off the high ceilings at this chic, contemporary wine bar. If there is any music, it’s lost in a nice din. And though Robust is situated near the Edward Jones Dome as July 2013
well as Busch Stadium, there’s not a guest in sight with a ball cap or jersey. Jeans, yes, but designer. Beer, yes, but craft. An older crowd (certainly more mature than a few blocks west), but lively nonetheless. A lot of datenight couples; a lot of drunken smiles; and pretty much everybody enjoying themselves. One of the reasons is the room – a tall order in itself. The dramatic interior is draped with intricate woodworking touches, streamlined stone edges and crafty metal artwork. It’s the way an urban wine bar should look. Still, the folks here are queuing up for more than the ambiance. At Robust, the wine is the thing. Around 42 options rotate on the by-the-glass menu, and the bottle selections number well over 100. Daunting options are made easier by the user-friendly “Robust Factor,” a number system ranking in ascension like so: Bubbles, Crisp, Mellow, Luscious, Soft-hearted, Generous and Robust (also Sweet and Stickies). Pretty much an obligatory act for firsttimers is an order from the “Wine Flights” menu – Robust’s three-glass tasting session − which runs from $12 to $26. Sure, it’s a tad gimmicky. The wine descriptions on the
It’s hardly punishable at this wine-centric joint to break ranks and order a cocktail. A standout on the innovative mixed drinks and “winetails” menu was a version of the classic Manhattan. Dubbed the “Perfect Manhattan,” it used Dolin Blanc and Amaro Nonino in addition to sweet vermouth and a dash of Angostura bitters. Expecting a SweeTart, I instead got a stiff and enjoyable concoction brimming with golden rye. Another unexpected treat was the beer menu, with more than 20 well-chosen foreign and domestic options. I was happy to see a Duvel golden as well as a Brazilian Xingu, a hearty black beer. Wine, of course, is best enjoyed with small plates, of which Robust is in good supply. The evening menu provides date-night-friendly fare – a plethora of OK appetizers, a handful of substantial pseudo-upscale entrees and a few inventive desserts (like a flight of dark and raspberry chocolate truffles accompanied by a ruby port). Yet, cheese and meat plates are the way to go. Each selection proved worth the extra few minutes I’ll need on the Stairmaster to work off the calories. Any salt fiend in your group will enjoy the Genova Salami, a nottoo-garlicky treat that was an awesome pair with the Chef ’s 3 Cheese Sampler.
order it: Robust
Take Me to Bed Reds is a red wine flight featuring three, 3-ounce pours of easy-drinking blends from Tuscany, California and the Côtes du Rhone region. Robust may be a wine bar, but if you’re in the mood for a cocktail, don’t think twice; just order the Perfect Manhattan, a stellar variation of a Manhattan that holds rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, dry vermouth, Amaro Nonino and bitters.
Still gritty under its nails, Robust’s downtown incarnation is a fine bar worth a return trip. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
review Cook’s books: summer books
Pulpo: A Venetian Cookbook (Of Sorts) by Russell Norman
Fresh Ideas for Summer's Bounty We all know that the perfect summer day starts with a stroll to the neighborhood farmers market. But once you’ve filled your basket with ruby-red tomatoes, bright-green asparagus and all the farm-fresh eggs you can muster, then what? This month, we’re finding ideas and inspiration for putting all that locally grown goodness to work. Join us every Tuesday at SauceMagazine.com/blog as we cook and reveal recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your own collection.
Franny’s: Simple Seasonal Italian by Andrew Feinberg, Francine Stephens and Melissa Clark Michael Symon’s Carnivore by Michael Symon
Tyler Florence Fresh by Tyler Florence
Home Made Summer by Yvette van Boven
illustration by vidhya nagarajan
Expert pick: Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn Nick Miller knows a thing or two about farm-fresh cooking. At his Richmond Heights restaurant, Harvest – the name speaks for itself – the menu is guided by the growing season. But that doesn’t mean Miller’s a vegetarian. The book this chef and restaurateur uses more than any other is Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn. “This book is perfect for the beginner and professional alike. The recipes are very precise but at the same time give a couple stories and background information on the recipes that makes it fun. It’s a great read but an even better kitchen tool.”
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the ultimate: bellini p. 29 vegetize it: carnitas p. 32 one ingredient, 3 ways: okra p. 34 by popular demand: shrimp and corn bisque p. 36
the ultimate
bellini
Photo by CARMEN TROESSER
The Bellini is the quintessential summertime sipper, classic in its flavoring – white peach purée and prosecco – and simple in its assembly – the purée goes in the glass first, chilled sparkling comes next. But to elevate this minimalist drink to greatness, all the components have to be great. Here, we share the best purée, the best prosecco, the best proportions and even the best stemware to make the ultimate Bellini.
July 2013
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home cooking the ultimate: bellini
cco the prose
THE PROPORTIONS
the purée
We tested and tested and found the primo ratio to be 1 ounce of purée to 3.5 ounces of sparkling wine. The sugar content, color and fragrance are perfect, and the flavor and effervescence of the wine are not overwhelmed.
Whether you make the purée at home or buy it from the store, be sure to chill well before serving.
Measure the ingredients. The best mixologists do it; there’s no reason why you shouldn’t too. We love the mini angled measuring cup from Oxo. $5.50. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
es the glass
ADAMI BRUT DRY “It’s designed to be bright, refreshing and crisp.” Andrey Ivanov, general manager and beverage director, Elaia and Olio
$16. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
It’s completely worth it to make your own purée, especially right now as local peaches hit the market stands. A homemade purée tastes fresher than anything from a bottle. (Think of the difference between freshly squeezed orange juice versus OJ from a carton.) Ripe white peaches are spot-on sweet and lend the drink a beautiful coral hue. Peel, core, blend and sieve ‘em in a fine-mesh strainer. It’s really that easy. Add a dash of simple syrup if your peaches need a touch of sugar.
BUY IT If you don’t have the time to make your own purée (or you want to make a Bellini once peach season has passed), you can still achieve ultimate results. Just grab a bottle of Stirrings Simple Peach Bellini Cocktail Mix – a pre-mixed blend of peach purée, white peach juice and orange juice. The citrus lends another fantastic layer of flavor. $8. The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
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In a saucepan, combine equal parts granulated sugar and water. Stir. Let simmer on low heat until the sugar dissolves. Cool completely before using.
Treasure Aisles Antique Mall 2317 S. Big Bend Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.6875, facebook.com/ treasureaislesantiquemall Lusso, 165 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.725.7205, shoplusso.com July 2013
illustration by vidhya nagarajan
DO IT YOURSELF
Vintage barware has made a roaring comeback among bars with serious drinking clientele, who sip their concoctions from glasses fit for a Gatsby. Our advice? Dig deep at Treasure Aisles Antique Mall, where we found mid-century crystal champagne flutes and saucers for just $4 each. We also love the timeless elegance of these stemless, etched and painted platinum berry glasses by Roost, available at Lusso in mid-July for $18 each.
July 2013
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home cooking Vegetize it: carnitas
Jacked Up Carnitas BY kellie Hynes • Photos by Carmen Troesser
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ike most things that are good for me – exercise, “moderate” drinking – my vegetarianism can be a struggle to maintain. Sure it’s easy to blame bacon (drool). But that bored, heavy sigh when it’s dinner-making time is the saboteur of selective eaters. Friends, I am just one seitan recipe away from strapping on a feed bag full of ribs. A recent round of this soy-induced ennui sent me to the food blogs seeking inspiration. I found the same-old same-old. But then I stumbled onto CleanGreenSimple.com and found its gorgeous, brilliant recipe for Carolina pulled “pork” sandwiches made from … fruit! Jackfruit, to be precise. It’s a staple in south and southeastern Asian cuisine and your new BFF. Looking at a fresh jackfruit, you wouldn’t expect it to inspire anything. In fact, if one snuck into your house, you’d probably whack it with a baseball bat. A fresh jackfruit is humongous, oblong and yellowish green. Like an 80-pound alien booger with tumors. But the inside, ah, the inside of this gentle giant is interesting. Crack open a jackfruit and you’ll find pale yellow, fibrous flesh that vaguely resembles a pineapple. With tumors – er, seeds. OK, the jackfruit is not going to win any beauty prizes, but those fibers and seeds are where the magic happens. They soak up the flavors of the sauce you cook them in. And, yes, when you tear it up, braised jackfruit has the exact look and mouth feel of pulled pork. Intrigued, I wondered what other offlimit goodies could be vegetized by jackfruit. Could it really replace the pork in my Mexican dream dinner, carnitas?
July 2013
The good news is that canned jackfruit is available at many Asian grocery stores, so I didn’t have to make 80 pounds of anything. For this recipe, I used the jackfruit labeled “in brine.” (It’s also available “in syrup,” which would probably make a fun dessert or jam, if you’re feeling adventurous.) It would be easy to braise the jackfruit in a barbecue sauce, but I wanted to make something lighter and brighter. A friend of mine makes a fantastic savory pork dish. Her secret ingredient: orange juice concentrate. So I whipped up a batch of jackfruit using a bit of concentrate for flavor and tomato paste for color. The color part worked, but the jackfruit soaked up so much of the flavor that my carnitas tasted like baby aspirin. I tried again using freshly squeezed orange juice instead of concentrate. I also added a little molasses and agave, whose crazy alchemy makes anything taste pleasantly smoky. And, yes, this time it worked. Finally, a delicious vegan carnitas recipe that’s as fun to cook as it is to eat.
Vegan Carnitas Inspired by a recipe originally published on CleenGreenSimple.com
1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 2 tsp. minced garlic 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 cup water 1 Tbsp. lime juice 1 Tbsp. orange juice 1 Tbsp. molasses 2 tsp. amber agave nectar 1 tsp. red wine vinegar 6 small flour tortillas 3 ∕4 cup salsa 1 ripe avocado, sliced ¼ cup freshly chopped cilantro • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • Add the cumin, oregano, paprika, salt and pepper to a quart-sized Ziploc bag. Seal and shake to combine. • Place the jackfruit in a colander and rinse off any remaining brine. Pat dry. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the core out of the jackfruit pieces and discard. Cut the fruit into 1-inch wedges. Place the wedges and any seeds that have fallen out into the bag of spices. Seal and shake until all of the pieces are well coated. Set aside. • Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet. Add the onion and saute until brown and glossy, about 5 to 10
minutes. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. • Add the tomato paste and stir until the onions and garlic are coated. Add the water, scraping up any burned bits on the bottom of the pan. • Add the lime juice, orange juice, molasses, agave nectar and vinegar. Stir, bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. • Heat a second skillet over medium heat. Add the jackfruit and spices to the dry skillet. Toast the jackfruit, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is slightly dry to the touch and the spices are fragrant, about 5 to 10 minutes. • Add the jackfruit to the onion mixture and continue to simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until all of the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 to 25 minutes. Use 2 forks to shred the jackfruit. • Spread the jackfruit mixture evenly onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, watching to make sure it doesn’t burn. • Divide the jackfruit mixture evenly among the tortillas. Top each tortilla with 2 tablespoons of salsa, avocado slices and chopped cilantro. * Available at Olive Supermarket, 8041 Olive Blvd., U. City, 314.997.5168, stlouissupermarket.com
6 Carnitas 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. salt 1 ∕8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 20-oz. can Young Green Jackfruit in brine*, drained
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home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: okra
Okraphobic No More By Dee Ryan | Photos by laura miller
O
Okra Rellenos Cut 4 ounces pepper jack cheese into matchsticks. Wash and dry 1 pound fresh okra. Cut a slit in each okra pod and push the seeds to the side. Place 1 to 3 cheese pieces into each okra pod and set aside. Combine 1 cup all-purpose flour and ¹∕³ cup corn muffin mix in a large bowl. Whisk together 1 egg, ½ cup lager-style beer, ½ cup buttermilk and 1 tablespoon honey. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, stirring to combine. In a deep skillet, heat 4 to 6 cups vegetable oil over medium-high heat (The oil should be about 2- to 3-inches deep.). Dip stuffed okra in batter and carefully place in hot oil. Do not crowd the okra. As the okra browns, turn it with metal tongs. Once browned on all sides, remove and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.
kra is a funny little vegetable. It’s chockfull of textures, from the slight peach fuzz on its rigid green skin to the crunch of the seeds to its oft-mentioned sliminess. There tend to be two camps in the world of okra, and, yes, those tend to be split along the Mason-Dixon line, as okra is traditionally more of a southern delicacy. Certain you’re in the “no, thank you” camp? Don’t be so sure.
Sweet and Spicy Pickled Okra In the bottom of each of 2 sterilized 1-pint Mason jars, place: ¼-inch slice of lemon, ¼-inch slice jalapeño and 1 peeled garlic clove. Then add to each jar: 2 teaspoons mustard seed, 1 teaspoon coriander, 1 teaspoon curry, ¼ teaspoon whole fennel seed, 1 allspice berry and 4 whole black peppercorns. Pack jars with whole, cleaned and dried okra pods, alternating stem up and stem down to get the pods to fit into the jars (about 12 pods per jar). In a nonreactive pot, bring 1 cup cider vinegar, 1 cup water, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 2 teaspoons granulated sugar to a boil until salt and sugar are dissolved. Pour hot liquid over the okra in the jars leaving about ½-inch of headspace. Let sit, uncovered, at room temperature, until the jars are just slightly warm to the touch. Screw on lids and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours before eating. Pickled okra will keep refrigerated for 2 to 3 weeks.
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Just can’t get past the slime factor of the summer seed pod? Soak okra in a combination of 1 quart of water and 1 cup of cider vinegar for an hour. Rinse, pat dry, then move forward with your okra recipe. The vinegar knocks out the goo without affecting the flavor.
Maque Choux In a saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add ¼-pound diced andouille or other smoked, spicy sausage, and cook until brown, about 3 minutes. Remove sausage to paper towels and let drain. To the same skillet, add 2 cups fresh okra, cut into ¼-inch rings. Cook okra for 4 to 5 minutes. Add to skillet: ½ cup diced onion, ½ cup red bell pepper, 1 tablespoon minced jalapeño pepper, 2 cloves minced garlic and 1 tablespoon fresh thyme. Saute until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add 3 cups fresh corn (or defrosted frozen corn) and saute for another 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup heavy cream and cook 1 minute longer. Add the sausage. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature. July 2013
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home cooking By Popular Demand: shrimp & corn bisque
By Popular Demand
Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you’d do just about anything to make at home? Email us at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe By Popular Demand.
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photo by carmen troesser
Eleven Eleven Mississippi's Shrimp & Corn Bisque
Shrimp & Corn Bisque Courtesy of Eleven Eleven Mississippi’s Wade Waller 4 to 6 Servings 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 red bell peppers, diced Half of a small onion, diced 1 carrot, peeled and diced ½ cup white wine 1 cup tomato juice 4 cups shrimp stock or vegetable stock 1 lb. baby cooked shrimp 1 cup corn kernels (fresh or frozen) ½ cup cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 Tbsp. cornstarch 2 Tbsp. water Hot pepper sauce to taste (optional) • In a large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the peppers, onions and carrots and saute for 5 minutes. • Add the white wine, tomato juice and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Let simmer for 30 minutes. • Add the shrimp, corn and cream and bring back to a simmer. Let simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. • In a small bowl, stir the cornstarch into the water. Slowly whisk the cornstarch mixture into the soup until the desired thickness is achieved. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add hot sauce to taste, if desired. • Divide between 4 to 6 bowls and serve immediately.
Eleven Eleven Mississippi 1111 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.9999, 1111-m.com
July 2013
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Photos by CARMEN TROESSER
Seeing as the margarita is a cocktail popular enough to boast a personal holiday (Yes, Feb. 22 is National Margarita Day.), we figured it was about time we call out some of our top picks for this classic, warm-weather treat. Our parameters were simple: It had to be a house margarita, and it had to be fresh – no bottled premixes or smoothie-style, frozen, machine-dispensed nonsense. With this drink, balance is key. Mixologists who stray too far from Gary Regan’s formula of 3 parts tequila, 2 parts triple sec and 1 part lime juice flirt with the possibility of a drink that’s overly sweet, mouth puckering-ly sour or simply way too intense. So, who has walked this line well enough to make our list? Check ‘em out. — Matt Berkley
Milagro Modern Mexican
Sanctuaria
Modesto
20 Allen Ave., Webster Groves, 314.962.4300, milagromodernmexican.com
4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.535.9700, sanctuariastl.com
5257 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com
Milagro pretty much knocks the classic house marg out of the park. Understated and hopelessly traditional, this mixture of Sauza Blanco tequila and triple sec is reinforced with a house-made limonada for an unexpected kick. A few quick shakes, and the bartenders strain their potent concoctions into chilled glasses lined with thick flakes of salt. Take three sips, and you’ll be back on the beaches of Playa del Carmen. This baby is as good as it gets.
The double Old-Fashioned glass Sanctuaria uses for its margarita is a strange vessel, better suited to dispense bourbon and bitters. But take a sip, and you’ll find that this glass does its duty just as well for margaritas. The bar is overflowing with all the fancy-ass, barrelaged, crafty drinks staff members can conjure up. But rest assured, they take just as much care with a simple margarita. Their take on the classic reminds you why you fell in love with this drink the first time. With a short ingredient list of lime, Cointreau, Lunazul Blanco tequila and a hit of simple syrup, it’s hardly one of Sanctuaria’s fanciest offerings, but it gets the job done.
“Modest” is actually a fitting adjective for Modesto’s house margarita. The restaurant is well-known for its rotating (and phenomenal) selection of brandy-fueled sangrias, but the bartenders at Modesto also shake up a solid, tequilainfused alternative. If you’re nice enough, they will even combine the two for a “Sangrita” in a tall, narrow cocktail glass. But the regular house margarita, which utilizes none other than Montezuma Silver tequila, has the ideal tartstrong combo that makes you wish the double-rocks glass it’s served up in was at least 2 inches taller.
July 2013
ONLINE EXTRA| Visit the Extra Sauce section of saucemagazine.com to see this month’s Short List Runner-Up.
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southern comforts Savoring dishes from below the Mason-Dixon line by stacy schultz | photos by greg rannells
Remember when you had to pile in the car and drive deep into Tennessee, Georgia or even Louisiana to get a taste of the South? After what seemed like forever, the rewards for not pinching your brother were nuggets of crispy okra fresh outta the fryer; a warm, crumbly square of sweet peach cobbler; and the grits – can’t forget the grits. Well, these days, you no longer have to suffer through 17 rounds of the license plate game in order to sink your teeth into the South. Southern ingredients are taking St. Louis by storm and, lucky for us, a few top-notch chefs are eager to celebrate them with new takes on old classics and a few well-kept secrets. In the spirit of southern hospitality, we’re spilling the beans on where you can find all of it and even how to bring it into your own kitchen. Get ready for a little southern charm.
Strawberry-infused moonshine at Hendricks BBQ For more on moonshine turn to page 47. 40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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sweet & savory smackdown Chicken and waffles may seem like an unlikely pairing, but down South, folks have been devouring this sweetand-salty combo plate for years. And once you finally figure out how to eat it, you’ll realize that it’s exactly what makes southern food so addicting: saccharine sweetness; juicy, savory chicken; and a crust so crisp it could only have come from the deep-fryer. The best part? You can find it around town morning, noon and night. July 2013
During brunch hours, you can drizzle a malted waffle and buttermilk-fried chicken with banana-pecan maple syrup at Scape, or slather a smoky, fried chicken breast and house-made waffle with a trio of honey, butter and syrup at Crow’s Nest. Craving this sweet-and-savory combo late-night? Stop by SoHo, where crispy wings and house-made waffles get doused in a smoky bourbon syrup.
Got a standing Thursday lunch date? You very well might after you bite into The “Bob Costas” Chicken and Waffles at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood. This dish, which executive chef Nick Zotos so cruelly only makes available during lunch service on Thursdays, has all the hallmarks of southern greatness. The chicken gets bathed in buttermilk before it’s battered and fried to juicy perfection. The fried bird is then perched atop a fresh-from-the-iron
waffle made with that beloved southern starch, sweet potatoes. And the syrup? This near-perfect blanket of sticky sweetness is a surprising mixture of smoky bourbon and sorghum, a maplelike extraction that originated down yonder and is blowing up in the Midwest. The candied jalapeños are like sweetand-spicy cherries showered on top.
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the nittygritty on grits Grits are essentially corn kernels that have been ground until they offer a gritty texture. Simple? Sure, but don’t let that fool you. Cooking grits skillfully is an art form – one that, when mastered, makes you wonder why you ever bothered with any other grain. Born in Louisiana and trained at the venerable NOLA institution Commander’s Palace, local chef Josh Galliano grew up eating grits almost every day (For tasty proof, just order Three Little Birds or Fried Porgy at the newly opened Clayton restaurant, The Libertine, where he works as executive chef.). Somehow, we convinced Galliano to share his secrets for mastering the art of the perfect grits. Rule No. 1: Get a Crock-Pot – a big one with a low or warm setting.
To make great grits, you have to start with great product. We pegged Galliano for his favorites; he happily obliged.
Georgia Turnpike Grits When Galliano visits his sister-in-law in Atlanta, he grabs as many 1-pound bags of these speckled, stone-ground grits as he can and keeps them in the freezer until he needs them.
Anson Mills Antebellum Grits Galliano loves the super-coarse texture and great flavor of these large-grind grits, which utilize the entire corn kernel – not just the outside hull. Keep them in the freezer, as their high oil content means a short shelf life.
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“Grit cooking is always based off the ratio: 1 cup of grits to 5 cups of liquid. The liquid is where you have your fun.” – Josh Galliano, executive chef, The Libertine
Whisk together 1 cup of grits, 2 cups of water and 2 cups of milk (skim or 2 percent), and salt and pepper to taste in a large Crock-Pot on its lowest setting. Cover and let cook for about 3 hours, stirring every 30 minutes.
When the mixture resembles porridge, stir in 1 cup of heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Cover and let cook for 1 more hour, stirring every 30 minutes.
illustrations by vidhya nagarajan
The grits should have softened a bit but still offer a toothsome chew. Add 1 stick (8 tablespoons) of unsalted butter to the grits and season again, if needed. If desired, stir in some cheese (one that melts well, like Parmesan, pecorino or cheddar).
The Foxfire Book of Appalachian Cookery edited by Linda Garland Page and Eliot Wigginton With more than 500 recipes for everything from seven-day coleslaw to sassafras tea, this book is treasured by generations of southern cooks. The instructions on preserving, pickling, curing and even “gritting” corn are the perfect way to bring the DIY trend home. July 2013
The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook edited by Sara Roahen and John T. Edge The 170 recipes in this spiral-bound treasure trove of southern basics come from the sauce-splattered notes of chefs, grandmothers, catfish farmers and writers alike.
The grits are done when they’re nice and soft, about 20 to 30 minutes. They shouldn’t be stiff like mashed potatoes or soupy. If they’re too thick, add some more water or milk to thin them out.
A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented for Your Kitchen by Hugh Acheson In this James Beard Foundation Award-winning book, the famed chef, restaurateur and unibrow boaster uses modern techniques to put his own twists on southern classics from grits to fried chicken to chess pie.
The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-Be Southerners by Matt and Ted Lee Brothers and food journalists Matt and Ted Lee wrote this James Beard Foundation Awardwinning homage to their southern roots to prove that just because you weren’t raised eating gumbo, pickled peaches and sweetpotato pie doesn’t mean you can’t master them. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43
Quench a southern thirst Down where it always feels like summer and the chicken is usually fried, you’ll find a cold glass of iced tea or lemonade offered at just about every meal. Here in town, a few creative spots are putting tasty twists on the unofficial drinks of the South that just might give the originals a run for their money. TAKE IT FROM ARNOLD
Those cubes bobbing in your glass mean your iced tea will only get better as the frozen tea squares melt in the summer sun, while that little shot glass of housemade simple syrup means you can sweeten your sipper as you see fit. Cielo, 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5800, cielostlouis.com
Want a tall, cold glass of good old-fashioned lemonade? Try the version at Windowsills, where a dash of orange blossom water makes all the difference. Windowsills Cafe and Marketplace, 1326 Clarkson Clayton Center, Ellisville, 636.527.6400, windowsillscafe.com
When it comes to taking the edge off of a brutally hot day, Arnold Palmer knows what he’s talking about. When the golf great ordered his now-signature mixture of half iced tea and half lemonade, he forever changed the way southerners felt about choices. For an authentic version of this summertime sipper, bring 2 cups of granulated sugar and 1 cup of water to a gentle boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the sugar dissolves and the mixture thickens to a syrup, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool completely. Steep 2 tea bags of peach-ginger tea (or other black tea) in 1 cup of very hot water for 5 minutes. Transfer to the fridge to chill. Squeeze 2 organic lemons (about ½ cup of juice) into 1 cup of water and place in the refrigerator. When everything is cool, fill 2 tall glasses halfway with ice. Divide the lemon water between the glasses, then top each with half of the iced tea. Sweeten with the extra-rich simple syrup, starting with ½ tablespoon and adding more as desired*. * You will have plenty of simple syrup left over. Transfer it to a glass jar, cover and place in the refrigerator. It should keep for 1 to 2 weeks.
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chow down
Chow-chow is a relish of pickled vegetables spiked with mustard. You can spot a jar of this bold, bright and slightly bitter condiment on tables throughout the South – usually with a spoon sticking out. Here in town, we’ve seen it accompanying spicy blackened fluke at Farmhaus and slathered on lavash at chef John Perkins’ vegetarian pop-up restaurant, The Agrarian. Taste Perkins’ spin on chow-chow while The Agrarian is still open (July 27 is the final day.), or use his recipe to make the piquant southern condiment at home.
Chow-chow Adapted by The Agrarian’s John Perkins from a recipe originally published in The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook Makes 2 quarts 6 Tbsp. salt 2 cups green bell pepper, medium dice 5 cups red bell pepper, medium dice 5 cups green cabbage (can mix in red cabbage for added color), sliced 2 cups green tomato, medium dice 2 cups fennel, medium dice 2 cups cauliflower, medium dice 4 cups cider vinegar (or rice vinegar for a more neutral flavor) 1 cup brown sugar 1 tsp. allspice 2 star anise pods 1 Tbsp. freshly minced garlic 1 cinnamon stick 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed 1 generous tsp. Korean chile flakes 1 small knob fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into rounds 1 tsp. toasted black peppercorns ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds • Pour 9 cups of water into a large container with a tight-fitting lid. Stir the salt into the water until it dissolves. Add the peppers, cabbage, tomato, fennel and cauliflower to the liquid and let brine in the refrigerator overnight. • The next day, strain the vegetables and set aside. • Add the vinegar to a large pot. Stir in the brown sugar until it dissolves. Add 1 cup of water along with the allspice, star anise, garlic, cinnamon stick, lemongrass, chile flakes, ginger, peppercorns and mustard seeds. Bring to a simmer. • Add the pickled vegetables and bring back to a simmer. After 15 minutes, remove from heat. • Let cool completely, then add to sanitized jars. The relish will keep in a tight-fitting lid, refrigerated, for 1 month.
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THE DEVIL WEARS YELLOW
jalapeño caviar, smoked ham hock
hot sauce, paprika, Parmesan
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What happens when you cross a classic southern snack with today’s global approach to ingredients? Jalapeño caviar, red curry, piquillo peppers and pickled daikon. So pay attention to the starter section of the menu next time you’re at one of these eateries because this old-school potluck favorite is boasting some serious newschool flair.
1. Dressel’s Public House, 419 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1060, dresselspublichouse.com 2. Bixby’s, 5700 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.361.7313, bixbys-mohistory.com 3. Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Ill., 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com red curry, carrot, daikon
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8 caviar, truffle oil
4. Water Street, 7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.646.8355, waterstreetstl.com
9 ham, pickles, piquillo peppers, capers
5. Tree House, 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.696.2100, Facebook: Tree House Vegetarian Restaurant 6. MX Movies, 618 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.2994, mxstlmovies.com 7. Scape American Bistro, 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, scapestl.com 8. Prime 1000, 1000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.1000, prime1000.com 9. Modesto, 5257 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com
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howling at the moon(shine) Say “moonshine,” and you conjure up images of backwoods hillbillies making un-aged corn whiskey that could practically light a fire in the back of your throat. Fair enough, considering the clear, harsh liquid they poured into jars labeled XXX was illegal. Thanks to the loosening of liquor laws a few years back, all that is changing. With distilleries from North Carolina to Tennessee releasing a line of un-aged whiskey this year, moonshine is making a comeback. But this isn’t the bathtub hooch you’ve heard about. Need proof? Just head to Hendricks BBQ in St. Charles and take the stairs down to the newly opened Moonshine Blues Bar, where bar manager Keyan Still and assistant bar manager Jeff Winer have acquired an impressive collection of unaged whiskey.
ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Whether you want to sip moonshine straight, taste it in a cocktail or compare labels (more than 15, in fact) in a flight, the Blues Bar is the perfect place to experiment with moonshine’s new era. Since white whiskey doesn’t age in a barrel for years like its bourbon counterpart, taking on the rich smokiness of the oak, it’s a great entrance into dark spirits for the nonwhiskey drinker. For a peek into what this workhorse can do, order the Ray Charles, a sweet and spicy combination of strawberry moonshine laced with peppercorn syrup, Camus cognac, lemon juice, triple sec and Angostura bitters. Want something a little smokier? No problem. The bar staff tosses some applewood into the smoker upstairs for a cold-smoked moonshine that pairs perfectly with those dry-rubbed ribs.
Moonshine Blues Bar, 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.724.8600, moonshinebluesbar.com July 2013
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stuff to do:
this month by Byron Kerman
Let Them Eat Art July 12 – 6 to 11 p.m., Downtown Maplewood 314.646.3607 cityofmaplewood.com Bastille Day is a veritable guillotine of excitement at Let Them Eat Art. This year, Maplewood ups the ante with plans to give away 1,000 cupcakes at the self-guided tour of the burg. The event also offers food and drink specials, wine and chocolate tastings, and a visit from The Fire & Ice Cream Truck. Other fun includes artists’ demos, live music, dream interpretation, belly and hoop dancing, tarot card reading, henna painting, kids’ activities and late-night burlesque.
Peach Festival July 13 – 8 a.m. to noon, Kirkwood Farmers Market · 314.822.0084 downtownkirkwood.com The most popular event of the year at the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market is the annual Peach Festival. Guests may taste different varieties of peach from area farms at a free sampling, and they can check out the fruit those farmers enter in a contest for best locally grown peach. Look for peach-based treats from the market vendors, plus live music and a sidewalk sale in downtown Kirkwood.
Beekeeping and Honey Production Class July 13 – 10 to 11:30 a.m., Sophia M. Sachs Butterfly House · 314.577.5140 mobot.org You’ve seen the local honey vendors at the area farmers markets, and you may have July 2013
questions about this noble pursuit. Get some answers and a taste at this fun class at Chesterfield’s Sophia M. Sachs Butterfly House. Members of the Eastern Missouri Beekeepers’ Association demonstrate beekeeping equipment and discuss the relationships between honeybees, plants and people. Check out the bees buzzing around an observation hive and enjoy a tasting of several local varieties of honey.
Foodology For Schools: Let’s Grow July 23 and 24 – 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden mobot.org Slowly but surely, school lunches are changing. Tired of yucky, unhealthy cafeteria fare, students, parents and others are coming together to change menus and incorporate food that’s not just healthy, but – and here’s the trick – also things kids are actually willing to eat. This two-day program for those fighting the good food fight is intended for educators, district leaders, school food-service professionals, school gardeners/groundskeepers, parents, and students in high school and older. Teams of two to five individuals per school or district are encouraged. Participants will attend lectures, a film screening, planning sessions and field trips to community and school gardens. Advance registration required.
History on Tap: Dogtown July 24 – 6 p.m., Missouri Historical Society Library and Research Center 314.746.4599 · mohistory.org The Young Friends of the Missouri History Museum know how to have a good
time. The History on Tap programs – for members and newbies alike – are fun bus tours of historic neighborhoods with stops for edification (talks), mastication (appetizers and pizza) and libations (beer). The Dogtown tour begins with a look at historical documents and stops at Seamus McDaniel’s, Pat’s Bar and Grill and Felix’s Pizza Pub for an Irish-American three-fer.
Farmers Market at The Cheshire Saturdays – 8 a.m. to noon, The Cheshire Inn 314.932.7840 market-stl.com The rejuvenated Cheshire Inn has a lot going on, including a weekly farmers market. Shoppers can peruse local cheeses, meats, poultry, produce, beer and wine. Participating vendors include Missouri Farm Fresh Foods, RCR American Pasture Pork, American Grass Fed Beef, Ozark Forest Mushrooms, Baetje Farms and Marcoot Jersey Creamery. (And breakfast at the adjacent Market at The Cheshire restaurant is a great way to fuel up before or after visiting the farmers market.)
offerings from the Sauce Food Truck Fest, starting at 7 p.m. The museum’s new, full-service restaurant, Panorama, will be open until 9 p.m.; its cafe will be open until 8 p.m.
Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Fridays July 12 – 5 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com There is something for everyone at this free monthly event. This year, the awardwinning event series boasts live music and activities for kids. The fun continues at the after-party at The Dam at 3173 Morgan Ford Road, from 8 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.
Field to Fork July 27 – 5 p.m., Bellecourt Manor, 225 E. A St., Belleville, Ill., 618.566.4451 x 22, heartlandsconservancy.org Celebrate the bounty of southern Illinois as local chefs prepare a five-course dinner from fresh, locally grown and sourced ingredients. Guests will meet growers and farmers and learn about the benefits of supporting local agriculture. Reservations required.
Local Social: Central West End Every second Friday through September – 5 to 9 p.m., participating shops and restaurants, cwescene.com
sponsored events Saint Louis Art Museum Outdoor Film Series
Local Social showcases shop owners, chefs, artists and more in one of the most walkable neighborhoods in St. Louis. Enjoy live music, visual feats, discounts, sips and snacks highlighting all things CWE.
Every Friday in July – 9 p.m., Art Hill in front of SLAM, 314.655.5535, slam.org Enjoy a series of classic films on Art Hill. Bring your own picnic or enjoy
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Corey Smale and Tyler Fenwick have backgrounds in advertising and marketing, not in long johns and fried rounds of jelly-filled goodness. Yet these entrepreneurs are determined to turn the world of doughnuts upside down with their concept, Strange Donuts, opening this month in Maplewood. Here, everything you need to know about their wacky world.
Why doughnuts? CS: We love doughnuts. Doughnuts are fun. You can’t even take doughnuts seriously. It allows us to have fun T-shirts and sunglasses. TF: We saw what was going on in doughnuts in cities like Portland and Austin. We’ve also seen what’s happened with cupcakes. They’ve just blown up. Why not with doughnuts?
So are doughnuts the next big thing? CS: The big thing right now is cronuts. Cronuts are out of New York. There’s one bakery in the country that makes them. They’re like flaky layers of dough, and they make them into doughnuts. We may try to do them this summer. Why open your shop in Maplewood? TF: They welcomed us with open arms. CS: What Rachelle [L’Ecuyer, director of community development for the city of Maplewood] is doing for small business in Maplewood is such a powerful thing. They really invest in creative businesses: bakeries and beers and bars and cakes and pies and chocolate. It made us feel immediately comfortable and confident in this business. Where did you come up with the name? TF: We were going to be Dogtown Donuts because it was going to be in Dogtown. When we decided to move to Maplewood, we had to change the name. [Smale] came to me with the idea of Strange Donuts. I was like god, no. Terrible name. I went from hating it to absolutely loving it. It describes the product. How strange are we talking here? TF: Gooey butter, creme brulee. CS: We have a red velvet we’ve
been working on. We’re going to do peanut butter and jelly. We’ll inject it with the jelly and put peanut butter chips on top. TF: We want to eventually get into a pizza doughnut or a breakfast doughnut with bacon and eggs. CS: Bacon is the easy link to get you to the savory world. Do either of you have any experience in the food or restaurant industry? CS: We have a baker, Sweet Will. He has experience. Where did you find Sweet Will? CS: He’s my brother-in-law’s cousin. He did the cupcakes at my wedding last year. He does his own thing called Sweet William’s Custom Cakes. He was at The Cup and he studies [pastry] at Forest Park [Community College]. Does he like to be called Sweet Will? TF: We just started calling him that. CS: Then we got him business cards that say “Sweet Will.” So I was like, “Well, you’re going to have to be Sweet Will.” So now that he has business cards, his name is set in stone, huh? CS: This is heavy cardstock. Where’d you get the money for business cards – and everything else you need to open a doughnut shop? CS: We put our idea out there when it was just a logo. Then we started building it. We did events, then we did the Kickstarter. The Kickstarter thing was huge: 324 backers gave over $12,500 dollars. TF: And we asked for $10,000. CS: I’m broke all the time. TF: It was cool getting our friends and family to give us money, but when we started seeing people from New Zealand and Russia – people we had never met before, who don’t even know where Maplewood is – to have them give us money is just crazy. – Ligaya Figueras Photo by Ashley Gieseking
A strange chat with Corey Smale and Tyler Fenwick
Nobody else around here is doing the Voodoo or Gourdough’s thing.
Strange Donuts 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.398.9530, strangedonuts.com
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