Sauce Magazine // July 2019

POOLSIDE DRINKING batch cocktail recipes for the pool, p. 38

GRAND TAVERN BY DAVID BURKE, P. 23 CHUCK-A-BURGER, P. 50 DOPE SALADS, P. 32

July 2019

I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M saucemagazine.com // F R E E , J U LY 2019

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Did Rebekah Peppler speak truth to power or spread dirty lies about the Aperol spritz?

JULY 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 7

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Don’t police other people’s drinking.

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS She was wrong. I think it’s a fine, refreshing tipple.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2019 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

I love an Aperol spritz. It has more personality than

Allyson Mace a wine spritzer or other Meera Nagarajan sweet drinks.

Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Michelle Volansky Megan Gilmore Julia Calleo, Ashley Gieseking, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Adam Rothbarth, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Marcelle Owona, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell, Darian Stevenson, Michelle Volansky, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Daun Lee, Marcelle Owona, Darian Stevenson

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 July 2019

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contents J U LY 2 019

editors' picks 9 EAT THIS Pancakes at Prasino

by adam rothbarth 11 ELIXIR The Aperol spritz is a good drink

by adam rothbarth 13 HIT LIST 5 places to try this month

last bite 46 STUFF TO DO by darian stevenson and marcelle owona 48 WHAT I DO Devi Gurung States

by catherine klene 50 LANDMARK Chuck-A-Burger Drive-In Restaurant

by adam rothbarth

features 32

DOPE SALADS by adam rothbarth 38

HOW TO POOL PARTY by heather hughes, meera nagarajan, matt sorrell and adam rothbarth

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM Monday, July 1, at noon when Sauce staff writer Matt Sorrell and art director Meera Nagarajan join St. Louis on the Air to discuss the must-try new restaurants on this month’s Hit List.

COVER DETAILS From snacks and drinks to food-themed pool floats, find out everything you need to throw a killer pool party on p. 38. Shot on location at the residence of Elena Pappas-Kratz.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

by matt sorrell and adam rothbarth 18 9 REASONS To try The Crow's Nest

by heather hughes and michelle volansky

soft-shell crab at grand tavern, p. 23

21 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore

reviews 23 NEW AND NOTABLE Grand Tavern by David Burke

by michael renner

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

26 LUNCH RUSH

July 2019

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant

by matt berkley 29 NIGHTLIFE Thurman’s in Shaw

by stephanie zeilenga

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Eat This

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Prasino, 1520 S. Fifth St., St. Charles, 636.277.0202, prasinostcharles.com

Get in your car. Drive to the Streets of St. Charles. Go to Prasino. Order the Prasino Cakes. That’s it. The menu is huge, but this is why you’re here. Whether it’s two blocks or 15 miles, these pancakes are worth the trek. Subtly tangy with buttermilk and absurdly fluffy, they’re both totally classic and uniquely good. Our advice is to order a stack, butter every layer, cut it into a grid, and go hard with the syrup, which will flood between the squares.

Trust us – we’ve whittled this down to a science.

July 2019

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THE APEROL SPRITZ IS A GOOD DRINK

By Adam Rothbarth For many, May 9, 2019, was a normal day. Millions of people woke up and went to work, unaware of the growing menace appearing on computer screens and doorsteps far and wide. But for avid consumers of a certain cocktail, May 9 will be remembered as the day of the hot take heard ’round the world. In The New York Times article, “The Aperol Spritz Is Not a Good Drink,” Rebekah Peppler argued the beverage “drinks like a Capri Sun after soccer practice on a hot day. Not in a good way.” She went on to say Aperol spritzes often suffer from the use of bad bubbles, and things get even worse when the ice starts melting.

For another perspective, we caught up with amaro expert and Bulrush beverage director Chris Voll. In 2018, Voll revamped the cocktail program at Olio, including its popular, wellcurated spritz menu. His goal was to expose patrons to new kinds of spritzes and expand their palates with unique aperitifs, amari and more. Here’s what he had to say.

PORTRAIT BY ADAM ROTHBARTH

they like. There’s some body to it. It’s citrusy, it comes with a big orange wheel on it, and it’s got a red-orange sunset kind of color. It’s got that wildfire effect – when one [drink] goes out, you’re going to get an order for three other ones because someone saw it. It’s got that infectiousness.

And it’s super easy drinking … if you make it right. That’s part of my issue with Rebekah Peppler’s article – she’s talking about poorly made spritzes.”

Why do you feel the Aperol spritz is a popular drink?

“It’s bubbly. It’s a little bit sweet, which people don’t like to admit that July 2019

How do you make a perfect Aperol spritz?

“It’s limiting the volume of the drink, because you have to drink it quickly.

The way that other people make it in that big, jumbo-sized wine glass where you get like 6 ounces and it’s

mostly bad prosecco – that’s not the way to make it.

“So, a smaller glass like the Olio spritz glasses. An ounce of Aperol, a halfounce of club soda, an ounce and a half-ish of cava, then two or three big ice cubes, and half an orange wheel. I think that’s a really nice Aperol spritz.

It’s not going to get diluted. That’s when the Aperol spritz gets really, really bad – when it sits there for like five minutes and nobody touches it.

Then it’s watery, then it’s sugary, then it tastes like a bad Capri Sun, like she says in the article.”

It seems like she’s describing the worst-case scenario of the drink.

“That’s how I felt about it. It’s a

very New York/Parisian point of view, where they’ve been drinking these for decades now. The people that would really like to drink more European – to drink aperitifs, even really intense and bitter amaros – are going to read that and not get that gateway to those things. I would give people an Aperol spritz, and then by the next time they’re coming in, I could get them to drink a Pastis spritz and enjoy it. And that’s weird for Americans. That’s what was cool about the spritz menu at Olio – using the Aperol spritz as a gateway.”

Bulrush 3307 Washington Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1208, bulrushstl.com Olio 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, oliostl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

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hit list

5 new places to try this month

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

DISHES AT AKAR

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HIT LIST p. 2 of 3

SHIQUAN WONTON It seems like there’s a new restaurant in The Loop almost every week, and we hope this one sticks around.

Shiquan Wonton – the second location of the popular Champaign, Illinois, eatery – now occupies the former Chinese Noodle Café location, making it prime territory for pre- or post-Pageant bites. The spicy, mouthnumbing soup and accompanying pork wontons were pleasantly tingly, as was the mapo tofu, a Sichuan peppercorn- and fermented black bean-laced dish that satisfied our desire for savory and spicy. On that note, we also thoroughly enjoyed the funky eggplant with fish sauce.

6138 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.9207, shiquan.app

clockwise from bottom left: bemiston cocktail club beverage director ryan miller; drinks and snacks at bemiston cocktail club; akar chef-owner bernie lee and teammate samantha pretto; the dining room at akar

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Downtown Clayton has its share of fine dining joints and swinging nightlife, but in recent years it’s been hard to find a straight-up neighborhood bar. Enter Bemiston Cocktail Club. Located in the former Extra Brut space, the focus at Bemiston is on conviviality, tasty small bites and simple, well made drinks. Settle in with The Bemmy, a can of Old Milwaukee and a shot of the house whiskey blend, or maybe a bottled dirty martini, an order of onion rings and tater tots, and take a load off. And despite “Club” in the moniker, no membership is required to imbibe.

Bemiston Cocktail Club, 16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, bemistoncocktailclub.com

AKAR Akar is blink-and-you’ll-miss-it small, nestled in between Bar Les Frères, Starbucks and a hair salon on the corner of Wydown Boulevard and Hanley Road. Definitely don’t blink. This new restaurant from the team behind Hiro Asian Kitchen is elegant and understated, offering cool takes on familiar dishes. The Manhattan-esque Shibuya cocktail was refreshing on a warm summer evening, as was the tempura softshell crab, served with corn and a deliciously spicy Singapore chili sauce. The short ribs literally fell off the bone, which made us grateful for the pea mash and sambal demi-glace underneath it.

7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.553.9914, akarstl.com

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BEMISTON COCKTAIL BAR PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; AKAR PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

BEMISTON COCKTAIL CLUB

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HIT LIST p. 3 of 3

AO&CO. AO&Co., the new boutique market from Ben Poremba (Elaia, Olio, Nixta, The Benevolent King), brings the intersection of Tower Grove and McRee avenues a little closer to becoming the best block in the world. With everything from a wall of cigars to Olio’s hummus and pita to coffee drinks, specialty wines, cheeses and meats, AO&Co. will become your new favorite place to shop for a dinner party, picnic or, let’s be real, just to treat yourself.

1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, bengelina.com

BEAST BUTCHER & BLOCK PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; AO&CO PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

BEAST BUTCHER & BLOCK Red alert: There is now a barbecue joint in The Grove, and we love it. The second iteration of David Sandusky’s flagship Belleville spot (Beast Craft BBQ Co.) isn’t just a restaurant – there’s also a small butcher shop and an incredible event space with indoor wood-fired grills. As for the food, Sandusky has ported over some of his most beloved dishes. The no-knifeneeded pork steak still rips, and we will always love Beast’s signature Brussels sprouts served with pork belly. Sandusky said to keep an eye out for new menu items, like the garlic cheddar hot links, which were a hit with the Sauce staff.

4156 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.944.6003, beastbbqstl.com

July 2019

clockwise from top right: beast butcher & block in the grove, a spread of barbecue at beast butcher & block, specialty goods for sale at ao&co., ao&co. owner ben pormeba, the cup of gold and soul at ao&co.

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The back patio deck is a haven for dogs and the people who love them. Water bowls, treats and adoring staff await your pup.

work young professionals and retirees catching up. You’re as likely to compare tattoos with your neighbor as you are Cardinals hats.

6 Metal Brunch rocks out Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Try the Bowl of Slop – hash brown casserole with cheese sauce, sausage and an egg; it’s everything you want – and wash it down with an A+ bloody mary.

2 Rotating taps feature solid local and regional beer like Logboat Brewing Co. Flybye, a farmhouse ale.

3 Local music lovers can catch the River Kittens performing live every other Tuesday at 8 p.m.

9 REASONS TO GO TO

TH E C ROW ’ S N E ST R I G H T

N O W

The Crow’s Nest website invites you to “come see what everyone’s complaining about,” but we’re not buying it. Like the best neighborhood bars, the Maplewood staple is a labor of love by bartenders turned co-owners Eliza Coriell and Kenny Snarzyk, and it shows. Despite off-color drink names like Sexual Chocolate and Don’t Make Me Cuke, we don’t hear anyone complaining. Here are nine reasons to go now. – Heather Hughes and Michelle Volansky

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4 Jalapeno Gouda cheese sauce

5 Everyone can feel at home here. The eclectic crowd includes Maplewood locals, raucous 20-somethings, post-

7 The menu offers lots of vegetarian and vegan options. Even meat-eaters obsess over the fried tomato sandwich.

8 There’s always something strange going on, from Arbitrary Judgment trivia to Halloween in June parties.

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

The Crow’s Nest, 7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.0989, eatcrowstl.com

9 Waffle fries!

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A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

Made with aloe vera, cucumber, spearmint, muskmelon and lemon peel steeped in brandy, Chareau Aloe Liqueur exudes a bright, rich flavor that’s great in a margarita: In an ice-filled shaker, mix 1.5 ounces Milagro Silver tequila, 1 ounce Chareau Aloe Liqueur, ½ ounce Tres Agaves agave nectar and ¾ ounce lime juice, then shake 17 seconds.

Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a cucumber slice and mint. $40. Lukas Wine and Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop

The newly packaged Southern German Lager from Six Mile Bridge Beer is a classic summertime sipper. This 4.8% brew offers a balance of crisp Hallertau hops accompanied by a lightly sweet backbone and German Pilsner, Vienna and Caramunich malts. It will remind you why this style will always be relevant. Four-pack: $9. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, craftbeercellar.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

stone hill winery concord is great over ice with a splash of soda water.

July 2019

The rich, complex Stone Hill Winery Concord features a perfect balance of sugar and acidity. One of the more difficult wines to produce, this blend is ideal over ice with a splash of soda water or 7UP. The affordable vino is great with cherry pie, berry cobbler or as a float over ice cream. $7. Dierbergs, 2516 Lemay Ferry Road, St. Louis, 314.894.2090, diebergs.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

lobster

dumplings at

grand tavern

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

grand tavern by david burke

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON

Grand Tavern by David Burke, located on the ground floor of the Angad Arts Hotel in Midtown’s Grand Center Arts District, reminds us that upscale restaurants are, at their core, theatrical experiences. We pay for a staged setting complete with clever scenery, stylish lighting and costumed players who perform their roles over the course of three acts. The main attraction at Grand Tavern, however, is Burke’s food, which is characteristically imaginative, sometimes overdramatic and often delicious – all at a price rivaling a top-tier ticket at the nearby Fabulous Fox Theatre.

new and notable GRAND TAVERN BY DAVID BURKE p. 23 // lunch rush SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE p. 26 // nightlife THURMAN'S IN SHAW p. 29

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NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3

Burke, the award-winning, New York City-based celebrity chef, has been described as blurring the lines between chef, artist, entrepreneur and inventor – a made-to-order match for the quirky Angad, where guests can choose boldly colored rooms based on their moods, like Passion Red or Happiness Yellow. In the past two decades, Burke has opened more than 20 restaurants, about half of which still operate. In recent years, he has been best known for his hotel collaborations, notably with Trump International in Washington, D.C., and his many television appearances on “Iron Chef America” and “Top Chef Masters.”

In a controversial 2015 move, Burke divorced himself from his namesake restaurant group to join ESquared Hospitality as a consulting partner overseeing new projects, including those like Grand Tavern under the David Burke brand.

one of two dining rooms at grand tavern

branzino at grand tavern

Executive chef Robert Cantu, a Texas transplant and veteran of high-end restaurants, is charged with translating Burke’s dramatic concepts into daily dining experiences for hotel guests, theatergoers and curious locals. Many dishes from Burke’s other restaurants have been reimagined to reflect the mood-centric Angad. Thus, Angry Lobster Dumplings become Emotional Lobster Dumplings, where steamed pouches of sweet lobster meat brightened by tart lemon confit and basil are served in a mild, but no less satisfying, version of Burke’s original rustic spicy tomato sauce accented by lemon zest, shaved radish and microgreens.

spear underneath. Is it possible to eat this with a straight face? It’s a comical photo-op – a high-wire act stimulating every sense – but ordering bacon as an appetizer and paying nearly $20 for the experience made me dizzy.

From the theater of the absurd comes Clothesline Bacon, another signature appetizer from Burke’s whimsical mind. Three to four thick, juicy slices of peppery, maple-candied bacon are suspended from actual clothespins attached to a little wood and wire “clothesline” frame. We watched dumbfounded as our server ignited a sprig of rosemary. Its heady fragrance enveloped the table as she then torched the bacon, its fat dripping onto a pickle

If you want something of substance, try the roasted chicken, brine-soaked for tenderness and served with pistachio agnolotti, cauliflower and a piquant hit of chimichurri. It’s an excellent dish with just enough global flair to keep the palate interested.

Same for the branzino, a vibrant entree in which two firm, meaty fillets sit atop a bed of bright Mediterranean flavors: ratatouille-like simmered vegetables, artichoke hummus and daubs of cured black olive paste drizzled with a glossy green basil oil. Both meals prove it’s not all glitz and whimsy coming out of the kitchen.

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One evening, a spring pea risotto evoked the season, but included honey-roasted heirloom carrots with too much crunch. Another night, fried rice impressed with a 10-ounce lobster tail straddling the dish – split and perfectly grilled to succulent sweetness and doused with the kind of spicy, fishy, fresh XO sauce that should be served by the shot glass.

Grand Tavern’s crowd ranges from well-heeled men in navy sport coats and women in tailored dresses to hipsters in skinny jeans and khaki-clad couples out for a fancy dinner sans kids. Many dine on steak (bone-in sirloin or hedonistic porterhouse) dryaged with Burke’s patented Himalayan salt-brick process (No. 7,998,517 B2, the menu tells us). But Saturdays are surf-and-turf night, an opportunity to luxuriate in butter-soft filet mignon and, on July 2019

my visit, supremely fresh halibut thinly battered tempura-style and pan-fried to a golden crispness.

Grand Tavern’s ornate desserts are shows in themselves.

I witnessed many googly-eyed diners as Burke’s cheesecake lollipop tree arrived at their tables in stunning fashion. There’s a nod to St. Louis in the form of gooey butter doughnuts with an over-thetop cotton candy crown. The dark chocolate-peanut butter mousse, served with a pair of dancer’s legs popping out of the dessert “Radio City Rockette Style,” acknowledges the building’s history as the birthplace of the troupe that later became famous in New York City as the Rockettes.

The restaurant design, like the hotel, is theatrical. On entry, you are greeted by an expansive lounge area where patrons can sip drinks before or after a show. Two dining rooms are also tucked into the space, one outfitted in no less than six shades of red in varying textures.

Grand Tavern’s presence makes sense for this part of town famously devoid of dining options. It takes deep pockets to survive the sporadic crush-and-calm of patrons dining on tight schedules before performances in the district’s many venues. And when there are no shows? In true Burkean showstopping fashion, Grand Tavern can fill the bill … for a price.

grand tavern by david burke

Where Angad Arts Hotel, 626 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.405.3399, grandtavernstl. com Don’t-Miss Dishes Lobster fried rice, any steak or fish Vibe Artsy, in a remixed art deco sort of way.

Entree Prices $16 to $118 (for two) When Mon. to Thu. – 7 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun. – 7 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

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LUNCH RUSH

Lentil Soup Until around 3 p.m., meals at this small and welcoming spot begin with a complimentary bowl of lentil soup, which is prepped every morning and served until the pot runs dry. This surprisingly satisfying stew is a mixture of lentils, onion, curry and brown rice slowsimmered into a curry lover’s dream.

Lahmageen Bread The crispy, fluffy housemade naan coming out of Sultan’s clay tandoor oven is what all restaurants should aspire to create.

It’s best as a base for the lahmageen bread dish – a savory flatbread spread with a rich, meaty paste of tomato, ground beef, onion and spices.

Sprinkled with sumacflavored pickled onion to add a bit of sourness, the lahmageen also comes with a lemon wedge and a light drizzle of garlic yogurt.

LUNCH RUSH

sultan mediterranean restaurant

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant is a new family-run operation turning out delectable Middle Eastern dishes in The Grove. The dark gray dining space, sparsely decorated with Turkish textiles hung here and there, belies the bright and dazzling plates of food hustled out of the busy kitchen. Here were some of the standouts.

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Sultan Pilau This signature dish is a savory phyllo dough potpie teeming with tender pieces of lamb shank, kabsa-spiced brown rice, raisins, carrots, pistachios, walnuts and slivers of almond. When attacked with a fork, the crispy crust explodes onto the plate, leaving a heaping mound of meat and rice complemented by a side of creamy garlic-yogurt-cucumber sauce and a salad of raw cucumbers, onions and roma tomatoes in a lemony vinaigrette. Good luck finishing this feast in one sitting.

Sultan’s media saeed

sultan mediterranean restaurant in the grove

munto

tea service and the sultan pilau

Saffron Curry Chicken Paired simply with a neat pile of white basmati rice, this understated dish showcases a vibrant tomato- and cream-based sauce swimming with the unmistakable taste of saffron along with garlic, ginger, garam masala and other tandoori spices.

The sauce practically begs to be soaked up by a piece of the housemade naan.

Munto This superstar dish features 10 gloriously plump dumplings stuffed with a mixture of ground beef, onion, parsley and a unique Middle Eastern sevenspice blend featuring cumin and a sprinkle of cayenne for nice bit of heat. The happy little dumplings are steamed then are finished off in a thick, buttery tomato sauce and topped with a healthy dose of creamy garlic yogurt and parsley.

Qali The qali stew is generously filled with slow-simmered beef and green and bright orange bell peppers. Its dark tomato sauce is salty, rich and heavy with garlic and oregano, perfect spooned over the accompanying side of white basmati rice and balanced by a zesty cucumber, tomato and onion salad.

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant

4200 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2020

The downside The only hiccup in the operation is the lack of a dedicated lunch menu, which is still in the works.

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NIGHTLIFE

the bar at thurman’s

from left, a margarita and a shrub sour

NIGHTLIFE

thurman’s in shaw

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

There’s a house piano and drum kit nestled in the front window of Thurman’s in Shaw.

Tucked among peaceful residential streets, it looks like a typical corner bar, aside from the posters of jazz greats – Charlie Parker, Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Thelonious Monk – covering the walls. A dark wood bar faces an impressive array of bottles lit from behind with a soft glow. A large TV often plays baseball or hockey games, and the lively patio out front is a true gem with blue string lights illuminating long tables and a fire pit. The July 2019

vibe is casual, neighbors seeming to flutter in and out.

It’s when night falls and the live music begins that the space transforms. The TV goes dark, the lights dim and Catholic saint candles occasionally appear along the bar. On Thursday and Friday nights, local jazz combos the Adam Maness Trio and the Kendrick Smith Trio hold court. The musicians mesmerize, effortlessly riffing off one another.

The piano lid remains open so you can watch the hammers frantically meet the piano strings.

Conversation becomes hushed, most patrons nodding along to the songs. No way this isn’t one of the best free shows in town.

Thursdays and Fridays are the best nights to stop in, but Saturdays are also great, when a rotating list of DJs spin tunes on what owner Doug Fowler, formerly a concert sound engineer, claims is “the world’s finest sound system in a neighborhood bar.” The Saturday I visited, DJ Soundtracks for Living created an intriguing mix of beats overlaid with jazzy trumpet.

The cocktail menu includes a short list of classics, including a grade-A margarita made with citrus juices and agave syrup served on ice in a tall glass.

There’s also a handful of shrub cocktails made with products from Heirloom Bottling Co., located just down the street. The bourbonbased shrub sour, made with Heirloom’s blackberry-lemon-mint shrub, lemon juice and sugar, and rimmed in salt, has a dry, winelike finish, the shrub balancing out the drink’s sweeter elements. It’s the perfect patio sipper on a warm summer evening.

If you need a little extra help to relax, try a CBD Bomb, an effervescent mix of the liquor of your choice and Queen City Hemp Seltzer. At the bartender’s suggestion, I tried a mix of tequila and a guava seltzer, refreshing and almost exactly like a paloma.

including a nice selection of Belgian beers. At the bar, a big batch of sangria sits waiting to be poured.

Current cult favorite Topo Chico is also available.

In addition to cocktails, the bar serves up more than a dozen wine options by the glass (even more by the bottle), a respectable list of whiskeys and a variety of craft beers,

Whether you’re lured in by the jazz, the tacos, the drinks or the patio, Thurman’s transcends its neighborhood bar category. If only we were all so lucky to live down the street.

a burrito and tacos at thurman’s

Thurman’s in Shaw 4069 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2783, thurmans inshaw.com

If you visited Thurman’s back when it was Thurman’s Grill, the menu will be something of a surprise.

As of early 2018, the kitchen specializes in fresh Mexican street food. The tacos – fish, chicken, steak, bacon, chorizo or beans and vegetables – are the star of the menu. Flavorful fillings are accompanied by onion, cilantro and lime and wrapped in two grilled, chewy corn tortillas. These are small, so you’ll want to order a few if you’re hungry.

Although true to its name, the giant burrito was less impressive, the protein and vegetables somewhat overpowered by a too-generous scoop of beans.

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BY ADAM ROTH BARTH

I N G R E DI E N T P H OTOS BY A S H L E Y G I E S E K I N G , S T Y L I N G BY J OY W I E D N E R SAL AD PH OTOS BY J U LI A CALLEO

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S A L A D S A R E L A B O R A T O R I E S O F P O S S I B I L I T Y, W H E R E R AW A N D C O O K E D I N G R E D I E N T S M I N G L E W I T H E A S E , A N D S W E E T , S P I C Y A N D S O U R C O M P O N E N T S F I N D U N C O M M O N H A R M O N I E S . A G R E A T S A L A D C A N T E A C H Y O U S O M E T H I N G N E W A B O U T F O O D – A B O U T H O W A V E G E T A B L E C A N B E P I C K L E D , O R H O W T H E T A S T E O F A L E A F Y G R E E N C H A N G E S I N C O M B I N A T I O N W I T H D I F F E R E N T S P I C E S O R H E R B S .

T H E R I G H T E Q U A T I O N O F H I G H - Q U A L I T Y P R O D U C E A N D I M A G I N A T I V E F L AV O R S C A N I N D E E D C H A N G E Y O U R L I F E .

S A L A D S A R E M A G I C A L .

Good salads are everywhere, and I made it my mission to find them. I tried dozens – I dragged my coworkers and friends all over town for months, sometimes willingly, sometimes begrudgingly. Occasionally, I had to hit restaurants multiple times. I went to Sunset Hills; I went to Frontenac. I ate salads in Chesterfield, Clayton, St. Charles and Tower Grove. I had salads in the morning. I had salads late at night. Sometimes, I tried two or three in a day. Hell, sometimes I tried four in a single meal.

Salad isn’t easy to define. Empty the contents of a crisper into a giant beer cooler, dump a bottle of oil on it, splash some vinegar in there, and you can call it a salad. Mash up some barbecued chicken with mayo, put a

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sprig of cilantro on top and you can call that a salad too. Both would be true, technically.

Neither of those salads will be discussed here, however, nor will potato salad, which is a shame because a good potato salad is basically the greatest thing ever.

All the salads featured here have a produce base that includes raw elements, a dressing or sauce and at least two ingredients aside from greens and dressing. Some salads on this list aren’t entree-sized, but they’re certainly more than sides. To be considered dope, a salad should feel hearty and expansive, even if it’s just four ingredients.

The dopest salads are the ones you go to a restaurant specifically to order. Anyway, you seem hungry. Here we go.

July 2019

WATERMELON SALAD K A T I E ’ S P I Z Z A & PA S T A O S T E R I A

July 2019

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salad is the steadfast centerpiece of an expansive menu. Case in point: When you go down the line of the cafeteriastyle eatery, there’s a guy whose sole job is to ask you two questions: “Salad?” and “Olives?” Say yes to both. If you’re like me, when you dig into this immaculately balanced Italian salad, you’ll basically black out and reawaken in front of an empty bowl. Perfection.

I TA L I A N SALAD LOUIE

ITALIAN SALAD, LOUIE These salads aren’t ranked in any order – except this one. Louie’s Italian salad is one of my favorite dishes in St. Louis. In a town with so many beloved Italian salads, it’s hard to distinguish a standout, but this one is so good it transcends its own name.

It derives a beautiful bitterness from its baby gem and radicchio base and takes a tingly sourness from pickled peppers.

Pecorino romano brings a deep richness and tang to the bowl, while Castelvetrano olives offer up a subtle saltiness. Aromatic red wine vinegar-based dressing ties everything together.

FATOUSH SALAD WITH FALAFEL, THE VINE CAFE This salad is earthy, Mediterranean umami. Its green pepper and cabbage provide a fresh, hearty base that’s balanced with brightness from parsley and a vinegar-and-oil dressing. The coolness of its tomato and cucumber make it especially good in the spring

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and summer. With a bit of fat from the pita chips and the crisp falafel, and a wash of tart creaminess from the accompanying tahini dressing, this salad has it all. (Pro tip: Always get the tahini dressing, even if you don’t get falafel.)

WATERMELON SALAD, KATIE’S PIZZA & PASTA OSTERIA The watermelon salad at Katie’s is like a rustic dream – the kind of thing you’d come up with on summer vacation when attempting the perfect outdoor meal. But there’s nothing spontaneous about this salad. Basil and pistachio bring a robust edge to the sweet-and-sour punch of watermelon, aged balsamic and lime – it’s one of the most refreshing combos I’ve tried in a long time.

ITALIAN SALAD, GRASSI’S RISTORANTE & DELI Grassi’s is a true O.G. of West County fast-casual Italian dining, and its house

JARRAHDALE PUMPKIN, CONFLUENCE KOMBUCHA This is one of the most beautiful salads I’ve ever seen. Oh, the colors!

Bright red beet mousse, deep green lacinato kale, burnt orange pumpkin, daisy-white cashew brie – and it tastes as vibrant as it looks. Burdock provides a durable base, while flax chips lend a veritable crunch. The amount of labor that goes into each component is staggering, but it’s presented with such natural breeziness that you almost don’t notice.

LITTLE GEM SALAD, UNION LOAFERS CAFÉ AND BREAD BAKERY This little powerhouse seems basic on paper, but after one bite, a whole world of brilliant textures and interlocking flavors is revealed. Here, silky buttermilk dressing coats punchy little gem lettuce, its intensity undercut by fragrant herbs.

Zesty shallots and seriously on-point breadcrumbs provide a gripping crunch.

Fun fact: When we asked our Instagram followers for their favorite salad in town, this was the clear winner.

EVERYTHING BUT THE KITCHEN SINK SALAD, GRACE MEAT + THREE With no less than 10 components, this ambitious salad made me very skeptical.

“There’s no way this can be good,” I thought. “Deviled egg and white cheddar? Fresh herbs and everything seasoning? Pickled onion and turnip?

AND there’s fried chicken? This is too aggressive!” I was confused. But aggressive is chef-owner Rick Lewis’ way, and I should have learned to respect it by now. If you aren’t feeling carnivorous, follow my lead and substitute tofu for the chicken – it’s a power move that was envied by many at my table.

SHAVED KALE SALAD, PASTARIA Pastaria’s shaved kale salad is one of the only things almost everybody in the Sauce office agrees on. In these parts, we simply call it “the kale Caesar,” and never have to specify that it’s from Pastaria, because real ones know. By any name, this killer salad is attractive, uniform and full of buoyant flavors and textures. Oh, what’s that?

You don’t like kale? Pastaria is here to change your mind.

ROASTED OZARK FOREST MUSHROOM SALAD, FARMHAUS RESTAURANT Like The Sopranos, OK Computer and The Divine Comedy, this salad is a rare instance of something actually living up to the hype surrounding it.

I was told by many that Farmhaus’ mushroom salad was amazing, and when I finally tried it, it blew my mind. Its magnificently cooked shiitake and oyster mushrooms take on an incredible, almost meat-like texture here, while its mixed greens provide a subtly bitter base. Creamy goat cheese and toasted pecans balance it all out against a deliciously savory warm bacon vinaigrette.

HONORABLE MENTIONS Citrus Salad, Elmwood. I thought about this salad for weeks after I tried it. The combination of bitter endive, punchy serrano, citrus and fried shallot had trademark Elmwood forcefulness along with a wonderful levity. It’s out of season now – otherwise it would have been on this list. Keep an eye out in case it pops up again.

Famous Salad, Rich & Charlie’s. This one inspired an argument in the office – some prefer it to Grassi’s salad, but I think Grassi’s is better. Either way, Rich & Charlie’s Italian salad is a beloved staple and should be recognized here.

Mixed Green Salad, Acero. This salad is really spectacular – its aromatic tarragon vinaigrette and toasted pistachio play against each other perfectly. It has to be one of the best salads in town, but competition was tough. It barely missed the final cut.

July 2019

DOPE SAL ADS AVA I L A B L E AT:

ACERO 7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.644.1790, acero-stl.com

CONFLUENCE KOMBUCHA 4507 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3059, confluencekombucha.com

ELMWOOD 2704 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.261.4708, elmwoodstl.com

FARMHAUS RESTAURANT 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

GRACE MEAT + THREE 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com

GRASSI’S RISTORANTE & DELI 10450 German Blvd., Frontenac, 314.994.1111, grassisstlouis.com

KATIE’S PIZZA & PASTA OSTERIA 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555; 14171 Clayton Road, Town & Country, 636.220.3238, katiespizzaandpasta.com

LOUIE 706 Demun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

PASTARIA 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com

RICH & CHARLIE’S multiple locations, richandcharlies.com

UNION LOAFERS CAFÉ AND BREAD BAKERY 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

THE VINE CAFÉ

July 2019

3171 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.0991, thevinestl.com

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W H E T H E R AT A L U X U RY H O T E L O R A N I N F L ATA B L E P O O L I N Y O U R B A C K YA R D , N O S U M M E R I S C O M P L E T E W I T H O U T A P O O L PA RT Y. A L L Y O U NEED ARE EASY DRINKS, SIMPLE S N A C K S A N D A WAV Y P L AY L I S T.

BY HEATHER HUGHES, MEERA NAGARAJAN, ADAM ROTHBARTH AND MATT SORRELL

July 2019

PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON, PROP STYLING BY PAIGE ROTH

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Canned Cocktail R

Pool drinks should be easy, and nothing’s easier than a can.

These canned cocktails offer something for everyone: a couple are sweet and bubbly to go down easy in the face of a sweltering summer afternoon, while others have a drier, more savory vibe.

All are perfect for a hot day at the pool with your buds. – A.R.

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Tecate Michelada Diablo You know what … who cares if you don’t think this is a cocktail? If you’re lucky enough to enjoy the flavor of micheladas – beer amped up with tomato juice, spices and chili peppers – then you’ll dig this winner from Tecate.

It’s delicious. Get one. $3.

Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

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Sprezza Bianco Vero Spritz When we popped a few of these babies in the office, everyone lost their minds.

An incredible balance of dry vermouth, rich bitters, mineral water and carbonation, this spritz will be the champion of any pool party. And just think of how cool you’ll look holding one. Four-pack: $17. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

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1220 Artisan Spirits Lemonade and Lavender This local option from the team behind 4 Hands Brewing Co. flirts with being saccharine, but stops short before it gets too sweet. It feels like drinking an ultrafloral lemonade, but with vodka. What’s not to love? Four-pack: $13.

Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

Pinckney Bend Distillery Gin and Tonic Local favorite Pinckney Bend successfully put the essence of its beloved, pink, hibiscus- and citrusforward classic tonic syrup into this can, which is no small feat. This tasty G&T is perfectly carbonated and not too sharp with the flavor of alcohol. Four-pack: $15.

Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

July 2019

Pool snacks are a delicate balance. You want things that can sit out and are satisfying without making you feel too full.

You also need ice cream treats to cool you down. – M.N. and A.R.

Coconut Popsicles The coconut popsicles at La Vallesana taste like vacation. Creamy, sweet coconut cream and chewy coconut flakes will transport you to the tropics. $3. La Vallesana, 2801 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.776.4223, neverialavallesana.com Culinaria HoneyRoasted Cashews These cashews are coated in chunky sugar and salt crystals for an irresistible crunchy coating. $6. Schnucks, various locations, schnucks.com Mezzetta Castelvetrano Olives This is the gateway olive – the one that will open olive-haters’ minds.

Castelvetranos have a buttery texture and a mild flavor perfect for poolside snacking. $6. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com Mateo’s Gourmet Salsa Every party needs a salsa, and this is our current favorite. If you can handle it, get Mateo’s incredible hot variety.

Otherwise, go for the hatch chili salsa.

Either way, be sure to buy a few jars.

They’ll go quick. $5. Schnucks, various locations, schnucks.com Frozen Grapes It might be basic, but this summertime hack is made for the pool. Frozen grapes are a refreshing, sweet treat that won’t weigh you down.

All available at target.com

Inflatable foods

Melting Ice Cream, $25 July 2019

Watermelon Slice, $30

Doughnut Beverage Boats, $10

Banana Seat, $20

Hot Dog, $25

Pizza Slice, $20

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POOLSIDE DRINKING This trio of large-format recipes is sure to impress guests. Each one serves 10 to 12, depending on how heavy-handed the bartender is. – M.S.

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July 2019

KENTUCKY BUCK

This easy-sipping drink created by famed bartender Erick Castro proves bourbon isn’t just for boozy, stirred drinks. The original calls for muddled strawberries, but this version uses homemade strawberry syrup.

1 750-ml. bottle bourbon 12 oz. strawberry syrup (recipe follows) 9½ oz. fresh lemon juice 12 to 16 dashes Angostura bitters Ginger beer • In an iced pitcher or beverage dispenser, combine the bourbon, strawberry syrup, lemon juice and bitters. Stir approximately 2 minutes to incorporate.

• Top with ginger beer and serve over ice.

PALOMA

Spanish for “dove,” this tangy tequila thirst quencher will definitely give you a peaceful, easy feeling.

1 750-ml. bottle blanco tequila 8 oz. grapefruit juice 2 oz. agave nectar 2 oz. fresh lime juice Grapefruit soda, like Squirt • In an iced pitcher or beverage dispenser, combine the tequila, grapefruit juice, agave nectar and lime juice. Stir approximately 2 minutes to incorporate.

• Top with grapefruit soda and serve over ice.

WHITE SANGRIA This light, tart refresher is low-ABV, so no need to be stingy on refills.

1 750-ml. bottle dry white wine, like sauvignon blanc 2 large ripe peaches, sliced 8 oz. Creme de Peche peach liqueur 8 oz. orange curacao 4 oz. fresh lemon juice

July 2019

1 750-ml. bottle brut sparkling wine, like cava or prosecco • In a sealable container, combine white wine, peaches, Creme de Peche, orange curacao and lemon juice. Let sit overnight, approximately 8 hours.

• Pour mixture into an iced pitcher or beverage dispenser and top with sparkling wine. Serve over ice.

STRAWBERRY SYRUP 2 cups white sugar 2 cups water 1 pint fresh strawberries • In a saucepan over medium heat, add the water and sugar and cook until sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes.

• Add the strawberries, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 15 minutes.

• Remove from heat, keep covered and let sit 15 minutes. Strain into a glass container and refrigerate up to four weeks.

Pool Playlist After drinks, the most important component of a pool party is music. The best choice is Yeezus

by Kanye West on repeat, but if you’re not on that level, this playlist should keep most of your guests feeling pretty good.

Charge your Bluetooth speaker, grab a cold one, and queue up these cool tunes. – A.R.

“Heat Wave” Snail Mail

“Follow” DIIV

“Darling” Real Estate

“Thinking of a Place” The War on Drugs

“You’re Not Good Enough” Blood Orange “Days” Television

“All That” Carly Rae Jepsen

“Vegas” Big Thief

“Ivy” Frank Ocean

“Everything I Am” Kanye West

“Range Life” Pavement

“Spirit in the Night” Bruce Springsteen

“Runaway Wind” Paul Westerberg

“Passionate Kisses” Lucinda Williams

“Baby” Ariel Pink’s Haunted Graffiti

“Littlest Things” Twin Shadow

“Me and Michael” MGMT

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

JULY

BY MARCELLE OWONA AND DARIAN STEVENSON SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS Tomato Explosion July – Restaurants throughout the St. Louis area, 314.726.5355, operationfoodsearch.org Proceeds from the purchase of special tomato-centric dishes at participating restaurants like BillieJean and Three Kings Public House benefit Operation Food Search, a local nonprofit.

Biére de Femme Festival

Shuck Like a Chef

#EatUpSTL at Hodak’s

July 13 – 1 to 5 p.m., Third Wheel Brewing, 4008 North Service Road, St. Peters, thirdwheelbrewing.com Celebrate women in the beer industry with 14 breweries, including Earthbound Beer, Two Plumbers Brewery + Arcade and Old Bakery Beer Co. Each brewery debuts one woman-created beer. Proceeds benefit the Pink Boots Society scholarship fund, which assists women beer professionals with education. Tickets available online.

July 18 – 6 to 7:30 p.m., Grand Tavern by David Burke, 634 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.405.3399, grandtavernstl.com Enjoy an evening with Grand Tavern

by David Burke chef Robert Cantu as he demonstrates how to shuck oysters.

Tickets include a shucking knife, shucking lessons, six raw oysters, three prepared oysters and a sparkling wine. Tickets available online.

July 24 – 6 to 9 p.m., Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar, 2100 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.7292, hodaks.com Enjoy Hodak’s famous fried chicken, chickenfried steak, wings, frog legs, barbecue and more from the regular menu for purchase.

The summer #EatUpSTL event celebrates historic restaurants around the St. Louis area, and this eatery has been known for its chicken since 1962. The event is free, but registration is required online.

Food Truck Friday July 12 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com More than 20 trucks join the next Food Truck Friday, as well as local drinks from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards. There’s also live music from The Bottoms Up Blues Gang.

Art Hill Film Series July 12, 19, 26 and Aug. 2 – 6 to 11:30 p.m., Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org Gather on Art Hill for the free outdoor film series. Before showtime, grab grub from the Food Truck Fest, with rotating trucks like Bombay Food Junkies and Clementine’s Creamery.

The Sunday Sip

Great Pork Steak Cook-Off

STL Brewers’ Picnic

July 14 – noon to 6 p.m., Augusta, 314.514.5386, augustawinetour.com Hop on a shuttle and sip your way through a guided tour of Augusta wineries, including Montelle Winery, Sugar Creek Winery and Balducci Vineyards. Tastings of wine, beer and food like pizzas and sandwiches are available for purchase at each stop. Tickets available online.

July 20 – 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., BeerSauce Shop, 318 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, Suite C, St. Peters, 636.970.9095, beersauceshop.com Sample pork steak from local farmers market vendors like Sriracha Granada and Cowboy Chris BBQ Sauce as they face off in this competition, then vote for your favorite.

Sides like potato salad, baked beans and sweet slaw are available for purchase.

Tickets available online.

July 26 – 5 to 9 p.m., Locust Street between 10th and 11th streets, St. Louis, Facebook: 2019 St. Louis Brewers’ Picnic Kick off St. Louis Craft Beer Week at this free picnic with games for adults and children and food for purchase from Bailey’s Restaurants. Barbecue items include pulled pork sandwiches, as well as a vegetarian option. Enjoy an ice cream sundae station for kids and beers from more than 10 breweries, including 2nd Shift Brewing Co., Earthbound Beer and Rockwell Beer Co.

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Clayton Restaurant Week July 15 to 21 – Clayton, claytonrestaurantweek.com Order a special three-course meal for $25 or $35, then add a donation to Operation Food Search when you get the bill. Participating restaurants include Cantina Laredo, Pastaria and more. Reservations encouraged.

Downtown Restaurant Week Aug. 2 to 8 – downtownrestaurantweek.net For $25 or $35, get a three-course meal from over a dozen participating eateries, including Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Anthony’s Bar. Add a donation to Operation Food Search after your meal.

July 2019

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

D E V I G U R U N G STA T ES A chance encounter with an American tourist in Kathmandu, Nepal, changed 16-year-old Devi Gurung States’ life forever.

That man became his adoptive father and brought him to the U.S., where States pursued his education relentlessly, earning a doctorate and two (soon to be three) master’s degrees.

States has combined his background in medicine and public health policy with his passion for food at Everest Café in The Grove. There, he focuses not only on feeding his customers, but also on caring for their physical health. Everest provides free health screenings in St. Louis every Sunday, and the restaurant’s earnings help support State’s Nepalese nonprofit, Himalayan Family Healthcare Project. Here’s how States went from a homeless teenager to a philanthropic doctor and restaurateur. – Catherine Klene

When I was 15, both my parents passed away. … I didn’t know what to do, so I left my village and I moved to Kathmandu …

I did not know anybody, and I was too young to find a job, so I became homeless. I [spent] every day picking garbage cans, knocking on doors. …

After a year and a half, I found a restaurant … I asked [the owner], ‘I want to work for anything. I’m hungry. I haven’t eaten for a long time.’ So then they gave me a job to wash dishes and bus tables. That’s where I said I have my two dreams: One dream is to own my restaurant. The second dream is I want to do something to help children who are poor and suffered as I was.” “ W h e n I wa s w o r k i n g a t t h e r e s ta u r a n t, I

met my American father, Dr. States … He told me he’s a doctor, he went to medical school to help people, not to be rich, and he wanted to help me and take me to the

U.S. … After I completed my undergrad, I asked my father, ‘You brought me to America.

What can I do pay you back?’

He said to help people.”

“Sometimes c u s t o m e r s come here,

and do you know what they ask me? They ask, ‘Is this good?’ I say, ‘Well, I respect what you’re saying, but your first question should be: Is it healthy? Then the second question should be: Is it good?’ I want you to reframe your mind. My goal is to make it healthy, then tasty.” “ T h r e e y e a r s ag o, o n e c u s t o m e r came

[for a free health screening].

His blood sugar was over 300, and I said, ‘I’m an MD. You need to see a doctor right away to get medication.’ His wife called me crying on the phone saying thank you very much. … Now, almost five times per week, he comes to eat. His blood sugar is under control, normal.”

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“ I n N e pa l , w e ’ v e b u i lt t w o s c h o o l s a l r e a d y and one medical

clinic. Doctors, nurses and medicine we supply 100 percent … that money comes from Everest Café. Once a year, at Festival of Nations, all the restaurants make a lot of money. For us, everything

– 100% – goes to our [Himalayan Family Healthcare Project].”

“To me, in order t o [ h av e a ] s t r o n g m i n d , I need to take care of

my body. … I have to run. I will run anywhere from 8 to 10 miles every other day. It’s fun.”

“I like to challenge m y s e l f to see what I can

do. I think my motivation came from when I was homeless. I had nothing. Now I have all this opportunity. I want to use it.”

Everest Café, 4145 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.531.4800, everestcafeandbar.com July 2019

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

“ M y d r e a m wa s t o o w n a r e s t a u r a n t.

July 2019

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

CHUCKABURGER

BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH

In the ’60s, there were eight ChuckA-Burger Drive-In Restaurants. Now, just north of Overland, the only remaining location is one of a kind.

“We have a niche,” said owner Ron Stille. “We’re the only drive-in, curbservice restaurant. It’s not a gimmick – it’s real curb service.” It’s so oldschool that if you go at the right time you can still catch an array of vintage cars in the parking lot.

When this last-standing Chuck-ABurger opened in 1957, Stille’s father was the manager. He sold the business to his son in 1995. But Stille doesn’t rely on history. “You only have one chance to impress someone,” he said. “There’s Facebook now – you screw something up, and everybody and their brother knows about it.”

Chuck-A-Burger Drive-In Restaurant 9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John, 314.428.5009, Facebook: Chuck-ABurger Drive-In Restaurant

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PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

What people seem to know is that Chuck-A-Burger is worth the visit.

“Basically, it’s burgers and fries,” Stille said. “Burgers, fries, onion rings, cherry Coke. We make our own cherry Coke.”

Stille reps the staples hard because he knows how good they are, but it’s not just burgers that bring people in. Chuck-ABurger still uses its original chili recipe from 1957, which has won numerous cook-offs. And when its 40-seat dining room fills up with people who don’t want a burger, the restaurant knows how to keep them happy. “We do tamales, we do chicken strips. Gotta have chicken strips,” Stille said.

July 2019

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