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waffles with strawberry-rhubarb compote at seed sprout spoon, p. 33

best of

BRUNCH G R E E N

R E V I E W

HARISSA

VIETNAM STYLE

P. 28

P. 18

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

July 2017

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M I N U T E

GRILLED MUSSELS P. 31 FREE, JULY 2017

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J U LY 2 017 • VO LUM E 17, ISSU E 7 What’s your go-to brunch order?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS French toast and a side of strawberries.

And on a bad day, extra whipped cream. Also coffee. And potatoes.

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2017 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Pancakes for the Catherine Klene table and then a Matt Sorrell Benedict for me Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Katie O'Connor Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Matt Sorrell, Bailey Synclaire, Micki Wagner Allyson Mace Angie Rosenberg Bloody, beer, Isabella Espinoza Beni Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Caitlin Lally, Bailey Synclaire, Micki Wagner, Rachel Wilson

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

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EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 July 2017

contents JULY 2017

editors' picks

27 ELIXIR

9 E AT THIS

by catherine klene

Trout cakes over grits

by catherine klene 11 ME AL S THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Mike Randolph

by meera nagarajan

reviews 15 N E W AN D NOTABLE Snax Gastrobar

by michael renner 18 LUNCH RUSH VietNam Style

by andrew barrett

roasted chicken at snax gastrobar, p. 15

Booze cruise

28 EFFICIENT KITCHEN Green garlic harissa

by kellie hynes 31 MAKE THIS Grilled mussels

by dee ryan

last course 46 STUFF TO DO by bailey synclaire and micki wagner 50 WHAT I D O Mary Bogacki

by matt sorrell

21 NIGHTLIFE 4 Hands Brewing Co.

by andrew barrett

dine & drink

features 33 BEST OF BRUNCH

by heather hughes, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell

25 A SE AT AT THE BAR COVER DETAILS

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

BEST OF BRUNCH A stack of waffles topped with strawberry-rhubarb compote from Seed Sprout Spoon. Learn more about this and other gems from the best brunch spots in town on p. 33.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHSON

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

July 2017

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

TROUT OVER GRIT CAKES, aka the best brunch dish at THE MUDDLED PIG GASTROPUB, doesn’t need a runny yolk for richness. Instead, Saturday night’s grits become Sunday’s obsession after they’re sliced and fried. The crunchy, luscious rounds are topped with fresh greens and a generous scoop of cool, creamy house-smoked trout PHOTO CARMEN TROESSER

salad. With a final flourish of brittle, salty trout skin, who needs a poached egg?

THE MUDDLED PIG GASTROPUB, 2733 SUTTON BLVD., MAPLEWOOD, 314.781.4607, THEMUDDLEDPIG.COM

July 2017

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Half & Half, halfandhalfstl.com; Público, publicostl.com; Randolfi’s, randolfis.com

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

M IKE RA N DOL PH Chef Mike Randolph has opened a number of restaurants since working at Chicago’s now-shuttered Moto.

Starting with The Good Pie in 2008, Randolph went on to open Half & Half, Little Country Gentleman, Medianoche, Randolfi’s and Público. As he gears up to open Half & Half’s second location in Kirkwood this summer, he told us about one meal he ate in 2001 when he was at a professional fork in the road and the late chef Michel Richard changed his life. – Meera Nagarajan

July 2017

Citronelle, Washington, D.C. (2001) “I was finishing school for political science and had just kind of realized I hadn’t done well enough to get the jobs I really wanted. I didn’t want to muddle around at the bottom of the industry, so I started thinking about culinary school. One night [my wife, my parents and I] went to Michel Richard’s Citronelle in D.C. It was in the Ritz-Carlton in Georgetown, and the restaurant had this beautiful glass-front kitchen. It was the first time I had seen four guys plating one plate of food.

And I remember thinking, ‘Look how calm everything is.’ The kitchens I had worked in were like a mad rush, and here’s this place and nobody’s breaking a sweat.

“One of the things that really stuck out to me was that there was a sense of humor in the food. They had the toques, the pressed chef jackets, tweezers, all that … but at the same time they didn’t take themselves too seriously. I remember getting a plate that looked like a sunny side up egg with bacon and toast. I think the toast was marzipan, the bacon was something, the egg was set panna cotta for the whites and a mango for the middle. Now, that dish is the Food Network version of molecular gastronomy, like, ‘You can do this at home in six easy steps!’ But in 2001, it was eye-opening. Here you are at this French institution, and you expect this delicate little financier, and then here comes this cafeteria tray. There was the sense that Michel Richard was having fun with you at the end of your meal.

“This was before Moto and Alinea.

Throughout the course of the night, I was just totally blown away that food could be something that I never knew about. It was perfectly seasoned small bites of food, tons of textures – that was Michel Richard’s big thing. Every dish had some crunchy element, some kind of creative textural contrast. It was absolutely my first exposure to any of that, and I think that’s what made me so interested in Moto. At this point in my life, [molecular gastronomy] is something I’ve grown out of – now I just want a perfectly cooked piece of meat with one sauce. But I felt like at that time it was cool to research and delve into what food could be – texturally and flavorwise. I’ve had a lot of pretty transcendent meals, but that stands alone.”

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

simple roasted chicken

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

snax gastrobar

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

“Let me guess, spelled with an x?” a friend asked when I told him I had eaten at Snax Gastrobar, which recently replaced J. McArthur’s An American Kitchen in the Lindenwood Park neighborhood.

“I hope the rest of it wasn’t stuck in the ’90s,” he scoffed.

What you name a restaurant is evidently a big deal.

n ew a n d n ota b le SNA X GA STROBAR p. 1 5 / l u n ch r ush VIETNAM ST YLE p. 1 8 / n ig htl ife 4 HANDS BRE WING CO. p. 21 July 2017

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hearty comfort food still reigns in the Watson Road building. Hemp’s “simple food done well” philosophy at Robust translated to the Snax menu, which he developed with sous chef Chris Ladley.

Where J. McArthur’s used Missouri-raised wagyu beef for its plump burger, the Snax version consisted of two juicy smashed patties reuben topped with thick-cut at snax bacon, melted cheese (two gastrobar of your choice) and the usual trimmings on the side, including crunchy house pickles. The accompanying Snax Sauce – like a jazzed-up Russian dressing – proved better than ketchup for the side of thin-cut crispy garlic-Parmesan fries.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

The menu makes a point to tell us that the mashed potatoes are “Real potatoes. Real butter. Real cream.” Real comforting is what they were, whether alone or under two slabs of meatloaf made with a blend of beef and pork and doused with mushroom gravy. Sauteed green beans and glazed carrots rounded out the meat-starch-vegetable equation with vibrant color.

Admittedly, I had the same reaction to the gimmicky moniker. Paring it with an equally annoying made-up word didn’t help. Just when we got used to “gastropub” (The word was added to Merriam-Webster in 2012, defined as “a pub, bar or tavern that offers meals of high quality.”), along comes “gastrobar.” If pubs (read: British) center on beer, while bars (American) are more booze-focused, then, logically, we can derive reasonable distinctions.

At Snax, the distinction is thankfully meaningless. When co-owner Arlene Maminta Browne told Sauce earlier this year that she chose the term “gastrobar” because the Snax concept meant to feature all libations with equal prominence, I nodded. OK, that makes sense. It’s why

AT A GLANCE snax gastrobar July 2017

you’ll find six draft beers and nearly 30 by the bottle and can, as well as seven ontrend cocktails, such as the Rieger’s 75, a fresh, florally take on the classic French 75 featuring the Kansas City gin and apricot liqueur. The wine list is well-chosen and remarkably affordable (no glass is more than $10 and most bottles are in the $20 and $30 range), which shouldn’t be surprising since the curatorial duties are handled by certified wine specialist Stanley Browne, who co-founded Robust Wine Bar with wife Arlene. The Brownes teamed up with Robust executive chef Joseph Hemp V (who also has an ownership stake) to open Snax.

While the new menu is no rehash of J. McArthur’s contemporary bistro fare,

Where 3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463, snaxstl.com

It would be easy to cook a chicken breast or fry a pork chop, plate it with some fries and frozen vegetables and call it comfort food. But comfort food seen through the eyes of a chef with as much experience as Hemp (Brasserie by Niche, Annie Gunn’s, Dressel’s Public House) goes beyond a perfunctory interpretation of the term – like the simple roasted chicken and smoked pork chop. There was nothing glamorous or innovative about these entrees – no fancy plating or drizzles of sauce, no precious ornament of pea shoots or eye-popping price tags – just a couple of basic dishes done well. The former – a tender, juicy airline cut, its skin seared crispy in cast iron – came with meaty shiitake mushrooms atop black-eyed peas,

Don’t Miss Dishes Cheeseburger, simple roasted chicken

Vibe Comfortable and casual neighborhood bistro setting with two (!) patios.

braised to a delicate creaminess, and doused with a lively lemon-garlic jus.

The kitchen must have used cassoulet as its role model for such soul-warming appeal. Complementing the dish with an added side of buttery stone-ground grits laced with honey and chives and topped with curls of shaved Parmesan only furthered the appeal.

The pork dish – two house-cured, smoked boneless chops paired with tangy pickled red cabbage, whiskey-glazed apples and roasted fingerling potatoes – felt more fall than summer, but I could eat it season-to-season and never tire of the simple satisfaction. However, at the beginning of summer, the seasonal vegetable salad was a must. One night brought a colorful plate of heirloom squash, golden and cherry tomatoes, Marcoot mozzarella, cucumber and microgreens lightly dressed with a lemon vinaigrette which accented rather than saturated each ingredient.

But for the addition of a communal table, upgraded bar area and some color changes, the interior is essentially unaltered from its predecessor. The biggest change was the addition of a couple of televisions in the dining room.

Broadcasting sporting events silently makes them less distracting and the place not feel like a sports bar. The building’s street-facing covered patio is as popular as ever, especially with the addition of a few picnic tables for larger groups, and the cozier back patio is still equally lively.

Where J. McArthur’s began as a destination for relaxed bistro dining, Snax’s starting point is serving regulars from the surrounding area with an aim toward more thoughtful food and drink than the typical neighborhood bar and grill. So, while its name may elicit a few eye rolls, Hemp et al. show you can’t always judge.

Entree Prices $10 to $17

When Tue. to Sat. – 5 p.m. to midnight

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

vietnam style

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

With craveable Vietnamese at affordable prices, there’s a lot to love about VietNam Style when it comes to the food. Go for the mix-and-match lunch special, which comes with an appetizer, drink and entree for less than $10. Skip the soda and opt for a specialty drink like a thick and generous avocadobased smoothie or sweet Vietnamese iced coffee, perfect for complementing a savory, spicy main course.

original sizzling steak

FRIED VIET STYLE CHEESE WRAPS Every single appetizer on the menu is fantastic, but the cheese wraps are the outstanding choice of outstanding choices. Picture what you wish all crab rangoons were actually like, and then add a quail egg.

House-wrapped and fried to a deep burnished crunch, they nail the proportions of wonton to melty, flavorful cream cheese goo and imitation crab meat with the bonus of the tiny egg inside.

I’m a sucker for a good banh mi, but most don’t have the necessary hallmarks of quality and taste. Perhaps the most important part, VietNam Style’s baguette captures the quintessential crusty exterior with soft, pillowy crumb that make for a great sandwich.

Go with the sardine and tomato sauce version, which has a vinegary-sweetness complementing that fishy funk, instead of the standard meat choices.

ORIGINAL SIZZLING STEAK The signature sizzling steak is served in a skillet, smothered in onions and a fried egg. There’s an option to upgrade to filet mignon, but the regular steak (a sirloin tip) is so good, there’s no reason. Seasoned with a house spice blend, it’s simple, flavorful and juicy despite usually showing up mediumwell to well-done. You might be

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pho ga

tempted to get the rice as your side, but don’t be fooled – the bread (same used in the banh mi) is the ideal delivery method for sopping up steak-n-onion juice. The meats at VietNam Style may not be attractive, but their gray pallor belies savory, spicy perfection. All are cooked and seasoned masterfully – even the meatballs featured in many dishes pack an inspired flavor, despite an uninspired hue.

PHO GA Pho’s popularity might be eclipsed by the rise of ramen in the U.S., but one slurp

of the herbaceous offering from VS will make you reassess your priorities. A large bowl of rice noodles and broth is topped with a hearty portion of chicken with a boat of basil, jalapeno and sprouts on the side to steep to personal preference.

Normally I find a full bowl of pho daunting for a single lunch, but I found myself munching along happily until it was gone, then sipping up the last of the broth.

THE DOWNSIDE While there’s virtually nothing to complain about when it comes to the food, I will mention the Lisa Frank color-scheme. The bright pink and green surrounds won’t detract from your meal, but they do seem out of place. The service can be mixed, but on my visits everyone seemed like they were genuinely doing their best. And parking can be a bit of a bummer in The Loop, especially with the current construction, but none of it should be a roadblock for getting out to VS for an affordable, first-rate meal.

Vietnam Style, 6100 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.405.8438, Facebook: VietNam Style July 2017

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF VIETNAM STYLE

BANH MI

July 2017

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reviews

4 hands brewing co.

NIGHTLIFE

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

once you’ve tasted all of the specials, this is the clean beer you can drink all night.

And by all night, I mean ending promptly at midnight on weekends and 10 p.m. on school nights. You’ll have to find 4 Hands another watering hole Brewing Co. for late night. There is 1220 S. Eighth St., St. little mercy for the weary Louis, 314.436.1559, drinker once the lights 4handsbrewery.com come up. I can’t blame staff for wanting to get home, but I felt eyes on the back of my head by 9:45 p.m. with half of a Single Speed to chug. The crew will all but lead you out by the scruff of your drunken neck at closing time – which is fair enough.

C

omfortably nestled between downtown and Soulard is 4 Hands Brewing Co. Swing open the formidable wood door to reveal the brewery’s base of operations with fermenters looming behind glass, keeping watch over the downstairs bar. Soaring warehouse ceilings and wood tables give off a country-industrial vibe, emphasized by the bicycle seats paired with handlebars to look like hunting trophies mounted on the walls. Not a bad place to sit with a beer and a friend.

But the real draw is the new large upstairs bar featuring – and I’ll regret saying this when I can never beat the high score on “Tapper” again – free-to-play vintage arcade cabinets. Good beer casts a wide net, and 4 Hands is no exception – the crowd is eclectic and spans all ages. The big, open room decorated with looming City Wide

July 2017

can prints and local artist Peat Wollaeger’s Eyez artwork is both a great event space and hangout spot. On any given night there may be a bachelorette party, a birthday, a first date, a last date or a coloring book release. However, as with most craft beer bars, there’s little in the way of diversity (except when it comes to beard styles).

On tap you’ll find 4 Hands classics along with

seasonal offerings. Menus scattered among the Mwanzi tables come with helpful descriptions to assist with that hard decision. Guava King has been my recent go-to for a refreshing glass that’s lightly sweet, tart and fun without being overwhelmingly fruity. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the rich and chocolaty Absence of Light – dangerously drinkable despite its opacity. But nothing beats City Wide Pils for drinkability, and

Speaking of time limits, the kitchen closes before the bar, so you’ll want to get there a bit early if you want to eat. (And you’ll want to eat.) The menu of elevated bar food was developed in collaboration with James Beard award-winner Kevin Nashan, co-owner of Peacemaker Lobster and Crab and Sidney Street Cafe. If you’re like me, hearing the word peacemaker brings two things to mind: shrimp and po’boys.

Both cravings can be sated – one with a pile of bright, fresh peel-and-eat shrimp, the other with a carryover brisket po’boy, which I consider the best brisket in town.

Getting a fix at 4 Hands relieves the guilt of not having seafood when at Peacemaker.

ORDER IT

4 hands brewing co.

From left, 4 Hands’ Guava King wheat ale and citrusy Contact High

The chopped salad is

also worth mentioning. More than a throwaway menu convention, this came fully realized on its own terms, completely loaded with bacon, avocado and pickled green tomatoes. It’s easily the most satisfying salad I’ve had at a bar – excuse me – tasting room.

While you won’t find a cocktail list, the hard liquor selection at 4 Hands is a perk you won’t find at most craft breweries. It feels just right to get a shot of rye to go with your Divided Sky Rye IPA. There’s nothing quite like a pour of Templeton and a beer back of the citrusy Contact High American pale wheat ale to get in the zone for another round of “Donkey Kong.”

The chopped salad is loaded with bacon, avocado and pickled green tomatoes.

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dine

& drink a dry albariño is the official white wine of summer

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Stiggins’ Fancy Plantation Pineapple Rum is our new go-to summertime spirit.

After an intended onetime release in 2014 drew rave reviews, the blend of pineapple-infused dark and white rums was put into TED AND JAMIE permanent production.

KILGORE Lush with freshness and USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart complexity, you’ll notice and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House the rummy richness first, followed by lingering pineapple. Try swapping out plain-Jane rum for something fancy in your daiquiri. $30. The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com July 2017

A mainstay in Spain, albariño is a rarity in California, but the 2015 Thirty-Seven Albariño from Sonoma should encourage others to join the club. With a fruit GLENN BARDGETT salad of juicy flavors Member of the Missouri Wine and seductive acidity, and Grape Board and wine this beautiful dry white director at Annie Gunn’s is perfect paired with an elegant heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad or sipped from a plastic cup on the water. $19. Saint Louis Wine Market and Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons East, Chesterfield, 636.536.6363, stlwinemarket.com

July in St. Louis is prime time for refreshing canned beer. Luckily, 2nd Shift Brewing recently added Little Big Hop to its list of exquisite hop-forward cans.

KATIE HERRERA The session IPA is Co-founder of Femme full of juicy pineapple Ferment and account manager at Craft Republic notes, accentuating a dank aroma and bright citrus character perfect for your next float trip or sweltering cook out. Four-pack: $12. 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

patio at sasha's on shaw

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BEER

BOOZE CRUISE

BY CATHERINE KLENE

Float trips don’t require much: a raft or canoe (or inner tube, if you must), sunscreen and a large cooler full of beer. Our days of Bud Light and Wild Turkey shoots are remembered fondly (or not at all), but our palates have grown since those first drinking days on the river.

Now we sip session IPAs, crisp wheat beers and juicy pale ales as we bob down Missouri waterways. Here are the six cans – no glass on the river! – we’re floating with this year. – Catherine Klene

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

2nd Shift Brewing Co. Brewligans Originally meant to sustain St. Louis Football Club fans through a 90-minute soccer game, this 6-percent brew is an IPA for hopheads who want to kick back on the Black River.

Civil Life Brewing Co. German Pilsner For those who forage in the cooler for something besides hop bombs and fruity adjuncts, we present the cool, crisp 5.1-percent German Pilsner. This is a Pils as it should be.

Four-pack: $12. 2nd Shift Brewing Co., 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Six-pack: $10. Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. Passion fruit Prussia The lowest ABV in our cooler is also one of the most flavorful.

4 Hands loads tropical passion fruit into a Berliner Weisse for a 4-percent taste of the Caribbean on the Current River.

Old Bakery Beer Co. Citrus Wheat Looking for less hop and more grain? This 4.7-percent wheat beer offers a touch of citrus and coriander that pairs perfectly with southwest Missouri sunshine.

Destihl Brewing Co. Wild Sour Blueberry Gose Destihl has canned a rainbow of tasty brews in its Wild Sour series. The 5.2-percent Blueberry Gose offers a hint of salinity and puckering notes of sweet-tart blueberry.

Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Fallen Flag Grab a 32-ounce Crowler of this juicy, hazy Northeaststyle American IPA on regular rotation at the Florissant brewery. True, at 7 percent, it breaks our lower ABV rule, but it wouldn’t be a true float trip if you didn’t get just a little drunk.

Four-pack: $11. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton. craftbeercellar.com

Four-pack: $9. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

Four-pack: $10. Saint Louis Hop Shop, 2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com

$12. Narrow Gauge Brewing Co., 1595 N. US Highway 67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com

March 2017

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EFFICIENT KITCHEN

green garlic harissa

BY KELLIE HYNES // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Every summer, I sign up for a CSA (community supported agriculture) share. And every summer, my icebox becomes the cold place where zucchini and good intentions die. This year, I joined The Libertine Neighborhood Bag, which is carefully curated by co-proprietor Audra Luedde, hoping to do better. Along with a bounty of versatile veggies – this is the part that makes me jump and clap –

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the share includes The Libertine’s own gourmet treats like pickled cauliflower, ginger-infused simple syrup and green garlic harissa. What is green garlic harissa, you ask? Ah, readers, it’s a bright and fresh spread/marinade/flavor infuser. A reminder that leafy greens can taste transcendent if you prepare them like a pro – in this case, like master chef and sommelier Audra Luedde.

Once I coaxed every last drop out of

the container, I begged for the recipe so we can all enjoy this crave-worthy condiment.

Traditional harissa is a staple of North African cuisine made from fiery red peppers and aromatic spices, all whipped together into a hummus-like paste. The lush foliage and influx of seasonal green garlic after a week of St. Louis storms inspired Luedde to make

July 2017

her verdant variation. If you can’t track down green garlic, a few cloves of white garlic work just fine. And I found the rest of the recipe to be equally flexible.

Sworn off kale? Spinach is a lovely substitute. Big cumin fan? Use a little more. Luedde’s recipe is more zesty than spicy, but I double down on the jalapeno in my personal supply because I hunger for the heat.

You can eat your harissa with crusty bread while standing alone over your sink enjoying a gourmet meal like I do. Or use it to make almost any old recipe new again. Try it drizzled over a scramble or tucked into some devilishly delicious eggs. It’s a tangy rub for chicken and steak, and brightens everything from roasted vegetables to fresh salads to fish. Add it to pasta like pesto’s more interesting cousin, or stir it into gazpacho to deepen the flavor. And just when you think you can’t make another ground beef recipe, harissa saves the day – and the meatloaf.

Of all the myriad items I bedazzled with harissa, the only dish that didn’t pass muster was a batch of sweet potato fries. I coated frozen fries before baking, and the whole thing simultaneously liquefied and burned.

A better approach would be to mix harissa with sour cream and use it as a topping on both baked sweet and white potatoes.

GREEN GARLIC HARISSA Courtesy of The Libertine’s Audra Luedde ABOUT 1½ CUPS 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds ½ Tbsp. coriander seeds ½ lb. black or green kale, chopped 1 jalapeno, seeded 1 small scallion, trimmed 2 oz. green garlic, bulbs and stems (or 5 peeled garlic cloves) ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup mint leaves ¼ cup parsley leaves 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 tsp. kosher salt

• In a small, dry skillet over mediumhigh heat, lightly toast the cumin and coriander seeds, stirring often, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool.

• To the bowl of a food processor, add the kale 1 handful at a time and pulse after each addition until finely chopped. Add the cumin, coriander, jalapeno, scallion, garlic, olive oil, mint, parsley, lemon juice and salt and process until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed.

Refrigerate up to 10 days or freeze up to 3 months.

Harissa-marinated chicken breasts Combine ½ cup harissa with ¼ cup plain Greek yogurt in a large zip-top bag. Add 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts and toss until the chicken is evenly coated. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove chicken from the marinade, shake off excess and bake 18 to 20 minutes or grill over medium-low, indirect heat 10 to 15 minutes per side. Serve drizzled with cilantro crema. (In a food processor, pulse ½ cup plain Greek yogurt, 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, ½ teaspoon lemon juice and ½ teaspoon kosher salt until smooth.

Refrigerate.)

Deviled harissa eggs Peel 6 hard-boiled eggs and cut in half lengthwise. Mix the yolks with 3 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 pinch table salt and ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika until creamy. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons harissa paste and mix well. Spoon the mixture into the egg

whites, garnish with fresh parsley and serve immediately.

Harissa burgers Mix 1 pound ground sirloin with ¼ cup harissa paste, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Form into patties and grill over medium-high, direct heat until desired doneness. Serve on buns topped with goat cheese and harissa aioli (½ cup mayonnaise mixed with 1 to 2 tablespoons harissa paste.)

Roasted harissa carrots Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut 1 pound carrots diagonally into 1½inch slices. Toss with 2 tablespoons harissa paste, 1 pinch freshly ground black pepper and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt. Roast until browed and soft, about 20 minutes, shaking the pan halfway through.

The Libertine Neighborhood Bag libertinestl.com

A batch of fresh green garlic harissa keeps for about a week in the refrigerator, but I promise it won’t last that long. In fact, harissa is now the almost-most-used condiment in my refrigerator. It’s second only to homemade mayonnaise, which – you guessed it – tastes better mixed with a spoonful of the green goddess. And now that I’ve tossed my boring old condiments and dressings, I have even more room for zucchini. But this year there is no wasteful spoiling, because stuffed zucchini boats drizzled with green garlic harissa is a dish worth celebrating.

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MAKE THIS GRILLED MUSSELS PACKETS ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES

It’s summer. Do not, I repeat, do not turn on your oven.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for medium, direct heat.

Stack 2 18-inch heavy foil sheets on a work surface. In the center of the foil, place 1 cup ¾-inch diced new potatoes, 6 mussels, 4 2-inch pieces shucked corn on the cob, 1 quartered hot Italian sausage link or chorizo, ½ cup thinly sliced fennel bulb, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon tomato paste and ½ teaspoon each freshly ground black pepper, garlic powder, kosher salt and smoked paprika. Pull up the sides of the foil and pour in ½ cup white wine.

Seal the packets by bringing up opposite sides of the foil and tightly folding them down, leaving a bit of room for the mussels to open. Fold the two ends closed and grill about 10 minutes. When the mussels have opened, remove and let rest 5 minutes. Serve with grilled bread. – Dee Ryan

MAKE THIS

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Mix up your packets by adding clams and shrimp, or use the classic Old Bay Seasoning in lieu of other spices.

July 2017

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B EofS T BRUNCH PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

B Y H E AT H E R H U G H E S , C AT H E R I N E K L E N E , M E E R A N A G A R A J A N A N D M AT T S O R R E L L

M AT C H A PA N C A K E S AT V I S TA R A M E N July 2017

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PONY B O Y

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

demun oyster bar

Weekends are not for sad cereal bars and stale office coffee. Weekends are for lingering over sparkling mimosas, velvety hollandaise and syrup-soaked flapjacks. Weekends are for the greatest meal of the week. In our quest for the area’s top brunches, we laid out some ground rules. Brunch is more than just a hodgepodge of your daily breakfast and lunch; it’s a unique menu or the addition of several specials that take it to the next level. And while there’s a time and a place for buffets, this isn’t it. We drank dozens of bloody marys and broke countless yolks during the nearly 60 meals we ate to bring you St. Louis’ 23 very best brunches. Clear your schedule – you have weekend plans.

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The cozy space is a design guru’s dream, decorated with mismatched flatware, vintage blue water glasses and punched tin pendant lights. An organic bloody mary bar boasts jars of pickles and hand-stuffed olives, while the neighboring mimosa bar (yes, mimosa bar) offers house-made honeysuckle or lavender-blueberry syrup. Chef-owner Brendan Kirby champions sustainable, local purveyors on the tight, everchanging menu. He crumbles Prairie Breeze cheddar cheese atop fluffy cheddar-herb biscuits swimming in gravy with sausage from Todd Geisert Farms. The nearly effervescent waffle arrives bejeweled with strawberryrhubarb compote, Raber’s maple syrup and fresh whipped cream. Even health-conscious Gwynie wouldn’t feel left out with oyster mushrooms and wilted Swiss chard atop cheesy McKaskle Family Farms grits. Now that’s all good. – C.K. T H E S AY LO R AT YAQ U I S

VISTA RAMEN

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

2609 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.797.8250, vistaramen.com, Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Vista’s brunch is a singular experience.

Sure, there are pancakes. But they’re pale green matcha pancakes topped with dollops of elderberry compote, mint leaves, crushed peanuts and a drizzle of condensed milk, hitting all of the sweet, fresh, verdant, savory notes you need.

There are grits. Perfectly loose, white grits swimming in a deep, salty shiro dashi with smoked shrimp XO sauce instead of whole shrimp, served with two poached eggs with custardy yolks.

Even the okonomiyaki is unexpected – Rueben-inspired, the light, eggy Japanese pancake is topped with thick-

July 2017

DEMUN OYSTER BAR

740 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0322, demunoysterbar.com, Saturday and Sunday – 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Brunching at DeMun Oyster Bar feels a bit like whiling away the hours at a Parisian sidewalk cafe. Sip on a glass of sparkling rosé from the extensive wine list or one of an array of tasty brunch cocktails, indulge in an oyster or two and let the day slip away. The menu has something for every taste. The breakfast hash, made with ingredients from the restaurant’s Saturday farmers market, is a combo of fresh and hearty. For a tasty twist on a classic, check out the crabcake Benedict – patties of crispy lump crab topped with poached eggs and rich hollandaise, served with home fries. For the truly peckish, the Pony Boy, a hefty open-faced burger topped with cheese sauce, pomme frites and an egg, fits the bill and then some. – M.S.

YAQ U I S

cut bacon instead of pastrami, white kimchi instead of kraut, dollops of creamy Thousand Island and a sunny egg for good brunch-isn’t-too-early-toshow-off measure. It’s a relief to know that Vista’s seemingly effortless ability to hit every texture and flavor note needed for a balanced dish is also available on Sunday mornings. – H.H.

SEED SPROUT SPOON

3137 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.606.0165, seedsproutspoon.com, Sunday – 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Gwyneth Paltrow would gush over Seed Sprout Spoon’s idyllic Sunday brunch.

2728 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.400.7712, yaquispizza.com, Sunday – 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

K AT I E ’ S P I Z Z A & PASTA OSTERIA

It’s Sunday morning, and Saturday night is weighing heavily on your shoulders. Bleary-eyed, you stumble into the welcoming confines of Yaquis and order the one thing you know will make all things right with the world again: Big Gay Al. A huge bowl of goodness, this creation has a fluffy biscuit base that’s topped with your choice of sausage or bacon, scrambled eggs, and then smothered with gravy.

Hangover, be gone! If Al is a bit too much to take, give the breakfast pizzas a shot. Our pick is the Saylor, topped with bacon, sausage, roasted potatoes, eggs, mozz and a thick gravy sauce.

These beauties come in either 8- or 14inch varieties and are baked in a woodfired oven for just the right amount of chew and char. – M.S.

Ordering a sweet something for the table is the only way to start brunch right. At Katie’s, get the giant pistachio cinnamon roll, pronto. The dense, cakey and gooey roll is made for grown-ups – rich but barely sweet with a scant amount of icing and a scattering of chopped pistachios. Highlights of the menu include dishes both sweet – a decadent French toast served with berries, whipped cream, fig syrup and crisp pancetta – and savory – the wood-oven eggs cooked to perfection and served with spicy fiama sausage and garlicky potato hash. Order a mimosa (we’re partial to the blackberry) and relax; the sunny dining room is a chic escape meant for all-day brunch lingering. – M.N.

9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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BISCUITS

and GRAVY s p r o u t

s p o o n

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

s e e d

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REEDS AMERICAN TABLE

7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Subtle culinary touches take brunch at Reeds American Table from great to extraordinary. Hollandaise? Chefowner Matt Daughaday will see the classic French sauce and raise you his version made with browned butter. He sloshes it over two perfectly poached eggs nestled in a shallow bowl with a cluster of charred mushrooms and green onion. And don’t even get us started on the Italian beef sandwich: paper-thin shreds of beef packed on a hoagie with spicy-sweetsour giardiniera and a side of rich jus that could hold its own against any Chicago deli. Start and finish with bottomless (but time-limited) miraculous mimosas, made with fresh juice and better wine than is reasonable, or the deep but bright ginbased Brunch Punch, which balances a hit of cold brew coffee with a pop of lemon. – C.K.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

BOUNDARY

AVO C AD O TOA ST AT E C L I P S E

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7818, boundary-stl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

T H E T AV E R N KITCHEN & BAR

Chef Rex Hale and his team at Boundary add refined touches to classic dishes that take the brunch menu from drab to fab. Beignets come with a strawberry-cream dipping sauce perfumed with cardamom, while pancakes are rich and custardy and served with a heap of organic poached fruit. On the savory side, a smoked chicken crepe was as decadent as the sweet stuff due to a ladle of aged white cheddarcream sauce. Even simple plates like a bacon, egg and avocado sandwich, have a nice array of flavor: a little heat from the pepper jack, juicy local tomatoes and a rich farm egg. It’s comfort fare made brand-new. – M.N.

word) of crispy bacon, this dish deserves its own solo spot on the menu. And the lemon ricotta doughnut, somehow rich, dense and fluffy at the same time, is not to be missed. – M.S.

Historic space, great service, plus an extensive array of brunch delicacies?

Yes, please. The Tavern Kitchen & Bar, housed in the venerable location that once housed Duff’s, continues this address’ tradition of putting out fine food. Those who want a selection of several different items should check out the trios, three small plates that give diners a variety of tastes from the menu. Don’t disregard the stuffed biscuits and gravy just because it’s relegated to the sides list. An enormous, flaky biscuit chock full of egg, mushroom and cheese, topped with spicy gravy and chunks (crumbles is too diminutive a

ECLIPSE RESTAURANT

July 2017

392 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.8400, tavernstl.com, Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

6177 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.726.2222, eclipsestlouis.com, Saturday and Sunday – 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Candice Poss, the newly appointed executive chef at Eclipse, will charm you with her southern accent and her southern brunch fare. Her shrimp and grits are not to be missed; a sauce that tastes of the ocean spiked with spices, peppers and onions coats super-fresh, head-on shrimp

cooked to a remarkable silken texture.

She uses Delta Grind grits special-ordered from Mississippi, Poss’ native state, for the most wonderful creamy, buttery concoction that balances the intense flavor of the sauce. Get it, please. Avocado toast – which is ubiquitous and, let’s be honest, basically just mashed avocado on toast – is an unexpected winner. Here, it’s the extra texture that makes it noteworthy: Soft, buttery toast with lemony avocado mash serves as the base for sliced peppery radishes, a sunny egg and thick avocado slices. Solid. But the menu doesn’t stop there; the bananas Foster French toast was a sight, stacked high with several bronzed slices making it an ideal table order. The toast was soft and sat in a pool of caramel, while a smattering of sliced bananas and whipped cream tempered the sweetness of the whole plate, keeping it from becoming a fullblown dessert. – M.N.

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BRUNCH IS FOR DRINKING These three spots deliver with exceptional brunch cocktails that will make you forget all about mimosas and bloody marys.

For light and sweet, unexpected classics …

AVENUE, 12 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton, 314.727.4141, avestl.com

For an impeccable, eclectic menu …

FRAZER’S RESTAURANT & LOUNGE, 1811 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com

For top-tier tiki vibes …

RETREAT GASTROPUB, 6 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497, retreatgastropub

ONLINE EXTRA Brunching with a crowd? Just in it for the bottomless booze? Visit saucemagazine.com for even more musttry brunches around town.

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SARDELLA

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, sardellastl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

There are plenty of reasons to tuck into Sardella’s weekend brunch (a warm, yeasty glazed doughnut, a tender house-made English muffin holding a bacon-egg sandwich, a verdant foamy matcha latte), but we only need two. First, we require a hybrid of two brunch classics: chicken and French toast. The kitchen soaks a thick slab of French toast overnight in a custard spiked with fierce ’nduja. After the spa treatment, it’s griddled to order and piled with fried chicken wings and a boneless tender, then drizzled with maple syrup and deceptively hot pickled peppers for a sweet-spicy powerhouse. Second: thick ricotta pancakes smothered with candied walnuts and gamble jam – a mixed berry concoction jarred last year that that most definitely paid off. – C.K.

HIRO ASIAN KITCHEN

1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4476, hiroasiankitchen.com, Saturday and Sunday – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Sometimes we crave a brunch with less Benedicts and more bulgogi. It’s then that we turn to Hiro Asian Kitchen for Pan-Asian dishes to fill any brunch need. For the hangover: The Hiro Slinger offers comfort to the weary weekend partier. Take solace in a deep stone bowl filled with seasoned tater tots smothered in gooey cheese, spicy chipotle aioli and a tangle of tender bulgogi beef. A requisite egg perches sunny side up and sinus-clearing Sriracha gives the kick you need to get back on track. For the health nut: You already crushed it at CrossFit, now keep the smart choices going with the glazed salmon rice bowl. A poached egg and a thick slice of teriyaki-glazed salmon rests atop crunchy radish salad and a bed of garlicky rice studded with sweet corn. Then reward yourself with a matcha or charcoal waffle a la mode – you earned it. – C.K.

COPPER PIG

4611 Macklind Ave., St. Louis, 314.499.7166, copperpigstl.com, Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Copper Pig has one of those brunches that makes you utterly useless for the rest of the day. “I want to go home and lie down after brunch,” explained owner Nhat Nguyen. The menu is dominated by rich dishes, like the doughnut French toast made from doughnuts sliced, dipped in eggs, cooked until golden and served with whipped cream and syrup. The breakfast chimichanga is another behemoth: a tortilla stuffed with scrambled eggs, tater tots, bacon, pico, then deep-fried until crisp and topped with sausage gravy. Items with a nod to Asian flavors also make an appearance, like Thai Scotch eggs, bacon-cream cheese rangoons or flavorful okonomiyaki, an eggy Japanese pancake with Chinese sausage, shrimp and cabbage folded in and topped with mayo, okonomiyaki sauce, bonito flakes and green onions. A cup of coffee cannot save your day after this meal, but who cares? It’s time to lie down. – M.N.

CHARLEVILLE BREWING CO. & T AV E R N 2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4677, charlevillebeer.com, Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Beer and brunch make for the perfect pair at the recently opened Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern. More than a dozen taps take care of the beer part of the equation, while reimagined breakfast favorites take front and center with the food. The absurdly tall chicken and waffle sliders utilize waffle quarters instead of buns, and a sweet and tangy maple-mustard aioli augments the crispy chicken nestled between. As the name implies, the pastrami slinger features tender pastrami and subs spicy sausage gravy for chili for an extra rich, tasty take on the local goto. Not in a beer mood? Plenty of classic brunch cocktail options are on hand, including a briny bloody mary, red sangrias and that most minimal of drinks, the screwdriver. – M.S.

SCARLETT’S WINE BAR

4253 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.797.8223, sashaswinebar.wixsite.com/scarlettswinebar, Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Build your own sangria. Do we have your attention now? It’s true. At Scarlett’s Wine Bar, select from four infused spirits – apple-lavender gin, pear-blueberry vodka, watermelon-cucumber rum and strawberry-basil Grand Marnier – and top it with your choice of white, red, sparkling or rosé. It’s the boozy brunch drink of our dreams. But if you also came to brunch to eat (why?), the paired-down menu offers a variety of standards, including a thick slab of brioche French toast coated in cinnamon sugar and a breakfast pizza that will feed a table. But the standout is the old-fashioned pancakes: thick and fluffy and undeniably addictive with a simple, classic flavor. No compotes, jams or jellies adorn them – they’re just pancakes, and they’re just right. – M.N.

EDIBLES & ESSENTIALS

5815 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.2300, ediblesandessentials.com, Saturday – 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Devoid of darling design flourishes, this small shop with a deli counter on South Hampton Avenue isn’t exactly the archetype of a brunch spot. But the unassuming rotating menu proves E&E is focused on something far better than appearances. Don’t breeze over basicsounding dishes, or you’ll risk missing out on an epiphanic bite of the bacon sandwich’s thick, perfectly crisp and chewy house-made bacon paired with a fried egg, havarti and a creamy kick of hoisin mayo on yielding ciabatta. Such moments of transcendence abound. The quiche is equally rich and delicate, with a fully baked, flaky crust (a depressingly rare accomplishment), and a light, custardy filling studded with veggies.

The biscuits are layered and light with just the right amount of salt, smothered in a no-nonsense gravy thick with huge chunks of Wenneman sausage. If you’re still craving cute, be sure to sit on the sunny patio out back. – H.H.

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RICOTTA

pancakes s a r d e l l a

cacio e pepe

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

EGGS

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HALF & HALF

8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, halfandhalfstl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

As a breakfast and lunch spot well known for its menu of top-notch favorites, Half & Half technically does brunch daily. But should you find yourself there on the weekend, go for the specials. They change weekly (check the restaurant’s Twitter or Instagram feeds each Saturday), but always include inventive dishes like pulled pork with salsa verde, served with fresh cilantro, crisp radish, jalapeno and little dollops of crema or crispy skinned trout with smoked grits and creamed spinach. If biscuits en papillote is on offer, don’t pass it up – it’s rare to find a brunch dish that takes you by surprise. Chunks of flaky biscuit, fresh strawberries and blueberries are neatly tucked inside a parchment packet and baked; the fruit keeps its firmness and the slightly salty biscuits soak up the juice. It’s served with a scoop of sweetened cream cheese that melts as you dig in. Trust us, you may think you know these flavors, but you’ve never had them like this. – M.N.

R U S S E L L’ S O N MACKLIND

S T R ATA AT R U S S E L L' S ON MACKLIND

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Beyond the sunny upstairs bar, homey atmosphere and friendly service, it’s Russell’s on Macklind’s brunch menu that will make you feel good. Nothing’s weird, no “challenging flavors” – just a sweet, towering strata as big as your head and a hash so full of veggies you can probably have as many bloody marys as you want. The maple-chile glazed fried chicken biscuits are a favorite (moist, crunchy tenders with just the right sweet and spicy notes), but the baked goods are what really set Russell’s apart.

Those biscuits were so soft and satisfying with a burnished crunch of crust, they inspired us to order a ham and cheese croissant. Rich with smoked ham and fontina, cut through by spicy mustard, that shattering, flaky, layered beauty was a revelation. – H.H.

July 2017

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

5400 Murdoch Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9994, macklind.russellscafe.com, Sunday – 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

B E fS T o

BRUNCH

BISCUIT S

PHOTOS PHOTO

BY CARMEN

BY VIRGINIA TROESSER HAROLD

en papillote h a l f & h a l f

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SHRIMP and grits

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

e c l i p s e

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BIG SKY CAFE

47 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves, 314.962.5757, bigskycafe.net, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

If a Denny’s Grand Slam breakfast is your idea of the ideal brunch, then you will love the Farmer’s Breakfast at Big Sky Cafe. Two buttermilk pancakes, farm-fresh eggs, Geisert Farms’ crispy smoked bacon and breakfast potatoes; yes, it’s simple, but it’s anything but basic. The pancakes alone are reason to go – a little fluffy, with a crisp edge cooked to a golden glow. Local is the theme at Big Sky, which is evident in dishes like the grilled asparagus with Ozark Forest mushrooms sauteed in herb butter and finished with a fried egg, a lovely rich and earthy vegetarian option. The biscuits and gravy were a welcome surprise; the pork jowl redeye gravy spiked with coffee was super savory and layered, elevating a common brunch standard to unusual and excellent. Don’t overlook cocktails like the Purple Hellfire Margarita made with añejo tequila, a lighter, breakfastfriendly margarita with a floral note and a pretty purple hue. – M.N.

BRASSERIE BY NICHE

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

First things first: you must begin brunch at Brasserie with the French breakfast for the table. A sophisticated and varied opener with a six-minute egg, raw veggies, slices of ham, a croissant, apple butter and a wedge of luscious Saint Andre triple creme cheese arrives on a board. If there’s a sweet tooth among your party, consider adding the equally sharable beignets, light and

July 2017

T H E WA F F L E S AT SEED SPROUT SPOON

fluffy and dusted with powdered sugar.

They come with house-made fresh cheese similar to a ricotta and a rotating compote (on our visit a barely sweet dried plum scented with vanilla). For some, this is enough to constitute brunch, but it would be a shame to stop there. The menu’s trusty French mainstays include eggs en cocotte (think poached eggs in bacon-y creamed spinach) and a croque madame draped in cheesy Mornay sauce and topped with a picture-perfect egg. With both dishes and drinks – like the bracing Corpse Reviver – executed with precision and care, brunching here is easy. – M.N.

POLITE SOCIETY

1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.325.2553, politesocietystl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

When brunching at Polite Society, you’re basically inside an Instagram filter – with soft, natural light pouring in from Lafayette Square onto tall exposed brick walls and the occasional bookshelf. Offering a range of classics from French toast and pancakes to a solid Farmer’s Breakfast and the requisite Benedict, it’s the elegant

details that set Polite Society apart.

The steak and eggs come with a deep, dark port demi-glace. That rich, barely sweet sauce also makes an appearance on the Osso Buco Hash – a composed dish with tender pieces of wine-braised pork, cipollini onion and bell pepper topped with two poached eggs that should be an elegant dinner entree more than a weekend morning hangover cure. The pervasive breakfast potatoes make us regret any time we’ve used the word airy before – puffed, french fry clouds that must be ordered. – H.H.

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C L E V E L A N D - H E AT H 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com, Saturday – 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

GRITS WITH SHIRO DASHI AT V I S TA RAMEN

The brunch menu is everything we’ve come to expect from Cleveland-Heath: kick-ass American food with flashes of Asian and Mexican influences. A classic, super meaty biscuits and gravy (with cheddar biscuits so good they made Red Lobster your man’s second choice after a good night) shares menu space with an alarmingly towering heap of chilaquiles, and a breakfast fried rice dish rich with Sriracha, soy and sesame beneath its fluffy disc of scrambled egg. Thick, soft pancakes are worth getting for the cherry jam alone, but the dark horse menu star is undeniably the Spamwich. With just enough jalapeno spice to cut through the delightfully artificial richness of griddled Spam and Velveeta-y American cheese, the nap-inducer is grounded by scrambled egg on a soft bun and rounded out by Kewpie mayo and bright pickled red onions. Don’t be afraid. – H.H.

L AY L A

PASTARIA

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

This month on Sound Bites, editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene and art director Meera Nagarajan will discuss the brunch scene in St. Louis. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio KWMU 90.7 FM.

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Wood-fired, an airy-fairy crust, fun toppings – Pastaria has the pizza thing down, and any trip to the Clayton restaurant (even for brunch) would be incomplete without it. The breakfast pizza woke us up fast with heat from sliced garlic and chiles, rounded

out with crispy pork belly, tomato sauce and gooey fontina cheese. Of course, an egg was on top – this is brunch, after all. On the sweet side, we cannot stop thinking about the buttermilk farro waffle. The texture is crisp and soft at the same time and its distinct nutty flavor is enhanced with the addition of candied pecans.

Wash it down with an Aperol spritz, effervescent from prosecco and just bitter enough to keep you sipping all morning long. – M.N.

Fans of Layla know The Grove favorite doesn’t do anything small or halfway (witness the cranium-sized burgers available on the regular menu), and this more-is-more attitude definitely extends to the brunch offerings. Case in point: the Layla Benny, a slab of thick ham steak on grilled sourdough, topped with flash-fried kale, tangy goat cheese and a couple of eggs cooked your way, all smothered in a pepper jack-bacon sauce.

Or the Sling Blade: flaky house-made biscuits drenched in vegetarian gravy you’d swear actually wasn’t. And if you have a hankering, a limited selection of those aforementioned big ol’ burgers are also available. But it’s not all savory stuff here. The banana bread French toast is a study in sweetness, tender and flavorful and decadent as all get out. Whatever your taste, Layla has you covered. – M.S. Editor's note: Some restaurants hosted Sauce at brunch tastings. These had no bearing on editorial coverage.

July 2017

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

4317 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9252, laylastl.com, Saturday and Sunday – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

July 2017

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stuff to do:

JULY

BY BAILE Y SYNCL AIRE AND MICKI WAGNER Party Off the Parkway July 6 – 4 to 8 p.m., Chesterfield Central Park, 631 Veterans Place Drive, Chesterfield, 636.812.9501, chesterfieldamphitheater.com Area food trucks head west at this new free monthly event in Chesterfield. Spread your picnic blanket and fill it with fare from Completely Sauced and Frankly Sausages while you pick up beer from Six Mile Bridge Beer and wine from Naked Vine. After you’ve finished dinner al fresco, stop by Sarah’s Cake Stop for dessert.

Kegs and Eggs July 15 – 9 a.m. to noon, Quincy Street Bistro, 6931 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.1588, quincystreetbistro.com Quincy Street Bistro’s latest beer brunch takes a patriotic turn with July Fourth-themed dishes like a berry Firecracker French Toast with cayenne butter and cinnamon whiskey syrup and the Salute to the Western Front-tata, made with housesmoked ham, red peppers, red onions and fontina. Each dish is paired with pours from breweries like 4 Hands Brewing Co., Perennial Artisan Ales and Schlafly. Proceeds benefit LifeBridge Partnership.

Beginner’s Fresh Pasta Class July 15 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., L’Ecole Culinaire, 9811 S. Forty Drive, Ladue, lecole.edu Roll up your sleeves and learn to make fresh pasta with instructors at L’Ecole Culinaire. Roll out long sheets of lasagna, cut thin strips of linguine and even stuff your own ravioli. The class is open to beginners, including kids. Tickets available online.

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Summer Yoga Jam July 19 – 6 to 8 p.m., Southtown Yoga, 1905 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.4190, southtownyoga.com 4 Hands Brewing Co. joins Southtown Yoga for a stretch and jam session.

Bring your yoga mat and enjoy an outdoor class with Candace Glass. Afterward, DJ Audra Angelique and 4 Hands keep the good vibes going with tunes and brews. Tickets available online.

St. Louis Craft Beer Week July 28 – Aug. 5, various locations, stlbeerweek.com Explore St. Louis’ expanding brewing scene at more than 100 events during this weeklong celebration. Sip suds at festivals, tastings, beer dinners and educational seminars. It all kicks off July 28 with the Brewer’s Picnic, featuring more than 30 beers at an indooroutdoor festival at Bridge Tap House.

Complete schedule and ticket information online.

Pat Connolly’s 75th Anniversary

sponsored events

Clayton Restaurant Week July 10 to 16, participating restaurants, Clayton, claytonrestaurantweek.com Try something new or enjoy an old favorite in Clayton during the summer edition of Clayton Restaurant Week. Fifteen participating restaurants like Avenue, Herbie’s and Ruth’s Chris prepare $25 or $35 three-course dinner menus. Menus and a full list of participants available online.

Food Truck Friday July 14 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Gather your friends, grab a picnic blanket and head to Tower Grove Park for the next Food Truck Friday. More than 20 trucks join the festivities, including K-Bop, Slice of The Hill and Wicked Greenz. Sip local pours from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards while you enjoy live music from Tommy Halloran. Save time and skip the line

– buy Speed Passes online and pick them up at the Sauce tent.

Art Hill Film Series July 14, 21, 28 and Aug. 4 – 6 p.m., Art Hill, Forest Park, 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, Facebook: Saint Louis Art Museum Head to Art Hill Fridays beginning July 14 when the Saint Louis Art Museum’s Art Hill Film Series returns featuring four films lauded for their costuming.

Get there early for a Food Truck Fest featuring around a dozen rotating trucks like Farmtruk, Vincent Van Doughnut and Seoul Taco. The series kicks off with Oscar-winning epic at sea, “Titanic.”

Spirited Sessions: The St. Louis Tea Party July 27 – 7 to 10 p.m., The BHive at Brennan’s, 4659 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Spirited Sessions Class is in session at Spirited Sessions.

STL Barkeep’s Matt Longueville and Sauce Magazine’s Matt Sorrell partner with Big Heart Tea Co. to teach the technique behind tea-based cocktails.

Tickets available online.

July 29 – 6 p.m., Pat Connolly Tavern, 6400 Oakland Ave, St. Louis, 314.647.7287, patconnollytavern.com Travel back in time to celebrate Dogtown staple Pat Connolly Tavern’s 75th anniversary. The 1942-themed event includes live big band music, vintage cars and classic cocktail tastings. Tickets include a buffet with tavern favorites like its famous fried chicken, shrimp, toasted ravioli, spinach artichoke dip and a beverage. Tickets available online or at the restaurant.

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WHAT I DO

mary bogacki Mary Bogacki has done it all. After getting her start schlepping buffet trays as a teen server, she found her way into the sweet world of pastry. She’s crafted delicate delights at the Four Seasons, baked comforting classics at Winslow’s Home and got downright weird at Strange Donuts. Now she’s cracking eggs at her popular Crestwood lunch spot, Yolklore. Here, the local sweets star on getting started, keeping it in the family and the future of Yolklore. – Matt Sorrell

“ I h o n e s t ly never thought I’d end up with someone who wa s i n t h e i n d u s t r y. But I think that that’s the only way it works out – either you have an extremely understanding partner, or someone who’s also in the industry and gets it.

My dream was always to open a restaurant with my husband and have that be our family. John [Bogaki]’s dad is an executive chef, so he grew up in the

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culture of the kitchen. By working together, we’ve elevated each other. I couldn’t be happier. I definitely wouldn’t have done it with anyone else.”

“ I f I wa s n ’ t in the r e s ta u r a n t i n d u s t r y ? I don’t know. I think I might have been a tattoo artist. I thought about doing that for a while, but I never had the guts. John’s always like, ‘It’s not too late!’”

“We try to go out and try n e w s t u f f . We just moved to South County, so we’re trying to discover what’s there.

We found a cool little Thai place by us, Thai Orchid, that has a beef noodle soup, like their version of a pho. We love going to Soulard – Tucker’s Place is our place to go there. They have the best burgers, and they’re only like $5.95. I don’t know what they do to them,

but they’re great, and different from the South County location.”

“ I p l ay h o c k e y w i t h m y da d when I can, u s u a l ly l at e at n i g h t. There’s a group called the Wednesday Night Eagles at the ice rink in Affton. It’s just a pickup game with whoever shows up. My sister says, ‘You’re the son Dad never had.’”

“ W e p l ay around with so many ideas.

We love the idea of doing another concept, or doing something similar to Yolklore.

There’s no solid plan as of yet. We just like to dream, and don’t sit still for too long. But as of right now we’re pretty content just trying to train a solid crew and getting everything where it needs to be.”

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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

“My first r e s ta u r a n t j o b wa s at R u s s o ’ s C a t e r i n g . I was a banquet server. I think I was 16. It was the absolute worst. But they were shorthanded one day, and asked me to help plate up for this huge banquet for 300. So I jumped on it and started plating and thought, ‘This is awesome.’ That’s probably what sucked me in at first.”

Yolklore 8958 Watson Road, Crestwood, 314.270.8538, yolklore.com

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