spice up your
summer
spicy doublecooked pork at china bistro, p. 7
From spicy Sichuan pork to the coolest local ice creams, check out what we’re eating, drinking and buying this summer.
July 2022
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Pistachio. It’s the subdued roasted flavor for me.
JULY 2022 • VOLUME 22, ISSUE 7 Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Chocolate — Liz Wolfson ideally a perfect balance of dark, Lauren Healey rich and creamy. Iain Shaw Lauren Healey Butter pecan Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Heather Hughes Huff Virginia Harold, Jonathan Gayman, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Michelle Volansky Anything with a CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicky Althoff, Glenn Bardgett, James salted caramel Boeckmann, Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, base and some Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson crunchies – preferably ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace chocolateACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Kelli Jones, Angie Rosenberg covered potato EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde chips or nuts. LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Nicky Althoff, Jamie Korenblat, Joey Knese, Sophia Liu, Kennedy Morganfield, Alexander Olson, Emma Pawlitz PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
What’s your favorite ice cream flavor?
Clementine’s Boozy Banana Rum
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St. Louis, MO 63103 July 2022
contents J U LY 2 02 2
features
editors' picks
18 FIXATIONS
7 EAT THIS Spicy double-cooked pork at China Bistro
by iain shaw 8 DRINK THIS
Eight products we’re loving right now
by meera nagarajan, iain shaw and liz wolfson 22 YA GOTTA BURRATA by lauren healey
2020 Dry Creek Dry Chenin Blanc
by glenn bardgett
27 LOCAL PINTS WE LOVE by iain shaw
11 HIT LIST
last bite 38 WHAT I DO Carlton Adams of Operation Food Search
by liz wolfson 40 LANDMARK Dominic’s on the Hill
by iain shaw 42 STUFF TO DO by james boeckmann
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
COVER DETAILS The spicy double-cooked pork at China Bistro inside Pan-Asia Supermarket is bright, spicy and salty — and totally craveable. Learn more on p.7. PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
6 places to try this month
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, iain shaw, michelle volansky and liz wolfson 15 IN THE KNOW Dinner at the Loft
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by iain shaw 16 ELIXIR Yes, we would like some shrubs
by nicky althoff
ice creams we love right now, p. 27
July 2022
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
The spicy doublecooked pork (Sichuan hui guo rou) is one of several classic Sichuan dishes that stand out at China Bistro, which serves Chinese and Vietnamese fare inside Pan-Asia Supermarket. Sichuan chile bean paste (doubanjiang) and green chile peppers drive the bold flavors – spicy, salty, slightly fermented – that complement the pork belly and command attention. It’s tempting to focus on the thin-cut strips of pork belly, a finely poised balance of meat and fat. But dig deep for bright notes of garlic and ginger, and don’t neglect the verdant Chinese leek, a crisp, slightly bitter reset before you go back for more of that pork.
PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
China Bistro (inside Pan-Asia Supermarket), 14246 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.220.3144
Eat This
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
DRINK THIS Patio, float trip, kids’ sporting events? 2020 Dry Creek Dry Chenin Blanc is as comfortable in a red Solo cup as it would be in a beautiful glass on your dining room table. Most California chenin blanc comes from this vineyard near Clarksburg in the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta. Easy sipping and very dry, this light, citrusy and refreshingly balanced bargain should be happily enjoyed during any month without an “r” in it. $14. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.447.9463, wineandcheeseplace.com Glenn Bardgett is wine director at Annie Gunn’s and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board.
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
hit list
6 new places to try this month
tacos ceviche at taqueria morita
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TAQUERIA MORITA Outdoor pop-up Taqueria Morita sits under a modern structure outside Vicia by Take Root Hospitality, which operates both restaurants. The starters include: Chips and salsa served with an herbal and spicy salsa verde as well as a roasted tomato salsa; green vegetable aguachile with serrano chiles, kohlrabi and cucumber; and oysters with yuzu, jicama and smoked habanero. Featuring high acid and heat, they were all light dishes to start a meal and felt effortlessly balanced. The mains are all tacos, like the carrot tinga taco that had a little sweetness and spice and the fish tempura tacos with chipotle crema and red cabbage, served in fresh, blue corn tortillas. Desserts and cocktails make lovely bookends to this meal: The tomatillo cocktail with sotol, tequila, tomatillo, green apple, cucumber and mint was a refreshing sipper, and the roasted pineapple dessert served with a cloud of whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon was the unexpected winner of the night.
this page: the outdoor dining area at taqueria morita; opposite page: from top, the beet salad at salve osteria, the gin room at salve osteria
4260 Forest Park Ave. (outside Vicia), St. Louis, 314.553.9239, taqueriamorita.com
Edwardsville-based Blue Violet is a promising addition to Michael Del Pietro’s collection of restaurants. Whereas Del Pietro’s other venues are committed to Italian cuisine, Blue Violet is more eclectic in its tastes. The kitchen uses ingredients like Tajin, Old Bay, pickled jalapeños, lime crema, nori, green curry, carrot chips and avocado to spice, brighten and complement the meat and seafood at the heart of most Blue Violet’s large plates. The Rocket Pork features tender pork belly in a coffee-cola glaze, with grits adding creamy comfort. The BV burger’s juicy grass-fed beef patty is lifted by bacon, white cheddar and poblano jam. That smoky poblano jam pops up again – to great effect – on the must-order corn bread.
6108 Shoger Drive Suite B, Edwardsville, 618.650.9003, 12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com bluevioletedwardsville.com
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PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
BLUE VIOLET
SPIRIT WINE AND CRAFT Spirit Wine and Craft, a new bottle shop from the folks at The Wine & Cheese Place, is a welcome addition to the Southampton neighborhood. By combining the spaces formerly occupied by Craft Beer Cellar and Ursa Minor Coffee, the shop has put together enough square footage to offer a thoughtfully curated selection of spirits, wine, craft beer and gourmet snacks, offering plenty of options in each category without leaving you overwhelmed by choice. Shelves are decorated with product descriptions to aid in your selection process, and the helpful staff will happily weigh in to make sure you leave with something you’re excited to try.
5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.786.3223, spiritwineandcraft.com
SALVE OSTERIA
ARZOLA'S FAJITAS + MARGARITAS Fans of the late Tex-Mex favorite Chuy Arzola’s in Dogtown should take note of the new incarnation from Eddie Arzola, his son Coby Arzola and their team, now open in Benton Park. The space (formerly home to Ernesto’s Wine Bar) has a fresh face, cozy interior and glowy patio nestled between brick buildings. Steak fajitas are the star of the concise menu, with super flavorful marinated and charbroiled slices of steak served with housemade guacamole, pico de gallo and crema. Margaritas dominate the cocktail menu, from the classic Zolarita made with juicy, fresh limonada, to the sweet-and-spicy Señor Serrano. The shrimp tostaditas are irresistible little corn tostadas piled high with plump shrimp, red chile sauce, guacamole, queso cotija and grilled pineapple pico. Pro tip: Sign up for their Queso Club reward program for a free bowl of classic queso and a basket of addictive, chile-dusted corn tortilla chips.
2730 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.226.9672, eatarzolas.com
Cafe Natasha’s closure was a loss for its loyal customers, but Natasha Bahrami and Michael Fricker’s Salve Osteria is bringing fresh ideas to South Grand. Start with its namesake Salve spritz with two different amari, yuzu, bitters and vermouth – which gives subtle sweetness – topped off with mint and natural sparkling wine. The vegetablefocused small plates shine here; chef Matt Wynn shops the farmers market each Saturday, so ingredients are fresh and may vary depending on season and availability. The grilled watermelon with red and yellow watermelon is salted to remove excess liquid and marinated in citrus juice before being grilled, cooled and served with feta, herbs and grilled fennel. The bacon fat carrots are slowly cooked in water and bacon fat; they’re served with blue cheese crema, bacon, shallots and mustard. And the beet salad with roasted beets, pickled gooseberries and kumquats and pistachio has already become a popular order amongst diners.
This Instagram-worthy storefront is tasteful and elegant. Start on the savory side with the Brazilian cheese bread, a tapioca flour breading stuffed with rich, gooey Brazilian cheese reminiscent of Monterey Jack mixed with mozzarella. We’re almost certain all the housemade creamy gelatos would be delightful, but we were partial to the pistachio, caramello salato (salted caramel), fragola (strawberry) and arrachidi (peanut butter gelato with milk chocolate and dulce de leche swirls). We also loved the smooth, lightly sweet acai bowl topped with crunchy pieces of granola, thin slices of fresh strawberry, and flakes of dried coconut.
Salve Osteria, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.3411, salveosteria.com July 2022
15877 Fountain Plaza Drive, Ellisville, 636.675.0507, trecuorigelateria.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13
TRE CUORI GELATERIA & ACAI
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
from left: brandon panosh, jordaryl logan and elliott brown
IN THE KNOW DIN N ER AT TH E LOFT
BLACK AND WHITE PHOTO BY PATRICK LANHAM; LOFT PHOTOS BY GREGG GOLDMAN
While furloughed during the pandemic, chefs Elliott Brown and Brandon Panosh decided to open reservations for a multi-course dinner. “It really was just a post that we made on my Instagram one night to see what happened,” Brown said. “When we woke up in the morning, we had eight people booked, so we just kept doing it.” The concept grew into Dinner at the Loft, a dinner series typically hosted at Brown’s Midtown apartment. Five courses of seasonal ingredient-led dishes are paired with a cocktail created by Jordaryl Logan, food and beverage director at One Cardinal Way. While the duo is also available for private dinners, bringing together groups of strangers can spark special moments, Brown said. “It’s just an experience that you’ve never really had before,” he said. “You get to sit and share a meal with someone that you probably never would have met before or you never would have spoken to.” Dinner at the Loft takes place roughly on a monthly schedule, and event announcements and reservations are managed through the team’s Instagram page. Instagram: @dinnerattheloft
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
bartenders and retail mixol ogists are prod u cing t heir own shrubs, using them in thirst-quenching summer drinks
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YES,
we would like some shrubs ’90s R&B and hip-hop group TLC cautioned us to avoid scrubs, but when it comes to shrubs, we say, ‘Yes, please!’ B Y N I C K Y A LT H O F F
For cocktail and mocktail enthusiasts alike, shrubs – the non-alcoholic, sweet-tart syrup produced by heating fruits, herbs and spices in vinegar – are a great way to brighten up your beverage of choice. Locally, bartenders and retail mixologists are producing their own shrubs, using them in thirst-quenching summer drinks and selling them at area shops for home use. Try them in cocktails at these restaurant bars, then pick some up to add to your bar cart.
Try These Polite Society
For bartender Craig Cunningham, what started as an at-home experiment during quarantine blossomed into a deep appreciation for shrubs, which he now produces at scale for use at the bar. “As with all things alcohol-related, shrub-making takes a little time and a little bit of experimentation before you find what tastes good,” he noted. His experiments ranged from the more traditional blood orangecardamom shrub currently featured in the Sanguine cocktail to one using roasted pumpkin, cinnamon and cardamom. The
July 2022
Strawberry Manilow includes a balsamic-mint shrub that’s also flavored with strawberries, raspberries, cedar leaves, Indian bay leaves and mace. Cunningham adds gin, Cocchi Americano and lemon juice to create a complex drink that he said has been one of Polite Society’s top-sellers to date. 1923 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.325.2553, politesocietystl.com
Blood & Sand
At Blood & Sand, bar manager Jake Smith combines apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar and mirin to create shrubs with a “well-rounded balance between sweet and sour,” he said. Try the Naughty Girls Need Love Too Samantha Fox, which uses blood orange shrub combined with pamplemousse rosé, Hendrick’s gin and lime, or the Day Glow Fire - Future Islands, made with Milagro Silver tequila infused with roasted aloha peppers and fat-washed with avocado, fireroasted corn syrup, orange and a cilantro-lime shrub. 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com
Shop These Heirloom Bottling Co.
Local shrub producer Heirloom Bottling Co. started as an idea in founder and CEO Brad Zulick’s kitchen. “I was looking for a quick and easy way to make batch cocktails for a group of friends, so I made some fruit-centric shrubs and added liquor. People loved them,” he said of his shrubs, whose flavor profile he considers somewhere between a syrup and a drinking vinegar. Heirloom Bottling now offers five unique shrub flavors, made using organic apple cider vinegar, fresh fruits, sugar, herbs and spices; flavors include strawberry-rosemary (which has no added sugars), blueberry-sage and blackberry-lemon-mint. 314.884.1781, heirloombottling.com
Civil Alchemy
Civil Alchemy co-founder and chief operating officer Ian VanDam said customers come to his store searching for shrubs for a variety of uses. “They’ll add shrubs to their favorite liquor or just soda water for a non-alcoholic summer spritz. Shrubs have been huge for the non-alcoholic cocktail scene,” he added. “We even see people
alternating drinking weekends with low- or no-proof weekends, just to shake it up a little.” In addition to the Heirloom Bottling Co. shrubs that it stocks, the Webster Groves shop also features Sideyard Shrubs out of the Bay Area, with inventive flavors like yuzu, strawberry, passionfruit and kumquat. 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com
I n tox i c o l o gy
In addition to Heirloom Bottling Co.’s sampler set of shrubs and individual 8-ounce bottles of the blackberry-lemon-mint and blueberry-sage flavors, Intoxicology also carries Cool Hand Co.’s blackberry-cocoa nib-orange peel, strawberry-hibiscus-jalapeño and pineapple-turmeric-ginger shrubs. Co-owner Melissa Pfeiffer said the shop often stocks a copy of Michael Dietsch’s book Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times, for those particularly interested in DIY shrub creation and inventive recipes. 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com
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F I X AT ION S From creative cookies to a beer made for summer, here’s what we’re reaching for this month. P H O T O S B Y J O N A T H A N G AY M A N
Upper Crust Bread ryechocolate chunk cookies Longtime industry pro (and 2016 Sauce One To Watch) Jeffrey Moll makes a wide variety of loaves and accoutrements like compound butter and lactofermented sauerkraut that are available through his online-only shop. He also offers these hefty cookies made with dark rye flour and black sesame seeds; together, they lend a toasty, nutty, savory note we love in a dessert.
Six cookies: $9. Upper Crust Bread, IG: @uppercruststl, upper-crust-bread.square.site
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Onyx whole-bean coffee This Arkansas-based roaster produces whole-bean coffees that range from light to medium, bringing out each bean’s best flavor profile. (A recent favorite carried notes of peach and brown sugar.) Sustainability informs their process from start to finish, beginning with sourcing, to using solar power at their roastery, to having transparency with pricing and trade data for consumers – plus the packaging is lovely. The knowledgeable folks at Comet Coffee can guide you to the best way to prepare your selection.
AO&Co. Mohammara Roasted piquillo peppers give this luxuriously smooth mezze dip its body, but pomegranate molasses bolsters the flavor with sweet and tart notes. It’s smoky with a slight hint of heat, and can be eaten with a warm pita or used to brighten other dishes – we love it with AO&Co.’s egg salad.
Half-pint: $12. AO&Co., 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, Facebook: AO&Co. Market and Café
$18 to $24, Comet Coffee, 5708 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7770, cometcoffeestl.com
Annie Gunn’s Caesar Salad Dressing One of our favorite Caesar salads in town is from Annie Gunn’s. It’s the dressing that makes it next level: It’s thick, salty and has just the right amount of fishiness. With the help of the Smokehouse Market July 2022
next door, you can buy the restaurant’s dressing to make big Caesars at home that make your guests say, “Wow!”
8 ounces: $5. The Smokehouse Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com
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Perennial Artisan Ales Suburban Beverage This lip-smacking, gose-style ale is the refresher we keep coming back to this summer to help us beat the heat. Brewed with salt and key lime juice, it’s a little like Tostitos’ Hint of Lime tortilla chips in a can – and equally addictive.
Four-pack: $11. Southside Wine and Spirits, 4920 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.779.6294, southsidewineandspirits.com
Baetje Farms Miette This bloomy rind cheese from Baetje Farms is soft and delicate. Baetje is famous for their goat’s milk cheese, but this one blends goat’s and sheep’s milk for a cheese that has sweet, yeasty notes and a little funk. It’s best paired with bread and a sparkling wine.
$14. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
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Very Asian Merch
When a caller told local KSDK news anchor Michelle Li she was being “very Asian” for talking about her Korean holiday traditions, Li parlayed the words into the Very Asian Foundation. The foundation supports highlighting Asian stories and provides grants to organizations dedicated to strengthening Asian communities. We love the merch they released to support the foundation like this tote bag, but you can find T-shirts and even onesies too. To learn more about the foundation visit veryasianfoundation.org.
Tote bag: $25. United Provisions, 6241 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.833.5699, unitedprovisions.com
Field To Fire Moroccan chickpea-lentil stew Can stew be exciting? When it has a light-yet-creamy texture complemented by warm spices like ginger and harissa paste, the answer is definitely yes. Veggies like sweet potatoes and kale plus the legumes make this a filling and blissfully easy workday lunch or weeknight dinner.
16 ounces: $12. Fresh Thyme Market, multiple locations, freshthyme.com
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SHORT LIST
Ya gotta
urrata Burrata is popping up on growing numbers of menus across the city, and we’re loving the many ways available to enjoy it. It’s easy to confuse burrata, a relative newcomer to the cheese scene (it was created in Italy in the early 20th century) for a glob of fresh mozzarella. And while the outer casing is exactly that, once cut into, a pool of decadent cream and stracciatella – shredded, fresh mozzarella cheese – oozes out for a delicate, exceptionally rich and indulgent treat. Not all burrata is created equal, however, and the way it’s presented is just as important the burrata itself. Here are our top three faves at the moment.
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BY LAUREN HEALEY // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
July 2022
burrata at noto italian restaurant
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burrata pizza at noto italian restaurant
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Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria
At Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, the mushroom burrata is served BYOB (build your own burrata). A ball of burrata sits alongside a mushroom agrodolce and Breadsmith ciabatta crostini moistened with high-quality olive oil. The most recent iteration included morels, while the next incarnation will likely feature chanterelles. Although the locally foraged mushrooms change with seasonal availability, the rest of the dish remains the same. The sweet-and-sour agrodolce in which the mushrooms are stewed includes an aged balsamic reduction, porcini mushroom stock, freshly shaved garlic, fresh thyme and a touch of butter, which makes for super juicy ‘shrooms. Spread an ample portion of the burrata on your crostini, then top with a heaping spoonful of the mushrooms for a delightful bite.
Louie
Noto Italian Restaurant
706 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com
5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters, 636.317.1143, notopizza.com
The burrata at Louie is an off-menu special only available Thursday through Saturday, and you do not want to miss out on this sublime delicacy. The creamy cheese is made in Puglia, Italy, by the Deliziosa brand, then overnighted to Chicago and flown to St. Louis. The Louie team is so proud of their phenomenal burrata that they do almost nothing to it before serving, only adding a bit of top-quality olive oil, along with a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper in order to allow the rich, buttery cheese to really shine. It’s served with grilled and generously oiled light and mild sourdough from Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery – an accompaniment we will never tire of.
The Neapolitan-style burrata pizza at Noto Italian Restaurant is utterly divine. The pizza, which boasts the most impeccably chewy and charred crust, has a San Marzano tomato sauce topped with fresh mozzarella imported from Italy, olive oil, basil, arugula and confit tomato; Sicilian sea salt provides an extra special flourish. A chilled ball of burrata is placed atop the pizza, which is served uncut to prevent too much moisture from the velvety burrata rendering the crust useless in supporting the toppings. Once the pizza arrives at your table, cut into the ball of cheesy deliciousness and spread it across the pizza for an exquisite contrast of temperature and texture.
14171 Clayton Road, Town & Country, 636.220.3238; 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com
burrata at louie
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Local Pints We Love
BY IAIN SHAW // ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
July 2022
Summer’s rising temps call for cold treats to help take the edge off the heat. Happily, the St. Louis region is blessed with an abundance of local ice cream artisans using high-quality, often locally sourced ingredients in flavors that range from classic to trailblazing. Whether you’re artfully ending a coursed meal with a special pairing, filling a bowl with scoops or digging straight into the carton with a spoon, there’s no wrong way to enjoy these pints we love.
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Sugarwitch
The rise of Sugarwitch has been steady and impressive, with Sophia Mendelson and Martha Bass evolving their ice cream sandwiches from a grad school side project in Columbia to an Airstream-based operation set up on Olio’s patio in Botanical Heights; they’re now set to move into the former Carondelet Bakery in the Patch neighborhood this fall. Their vivacious Super Lemon leaves no doubt about the reasons for their rise – the citrus lends a tart, refreshing and zesty pep to a luscious, creamy base.
flavors made with their luxuriously creamy coconut cream base. The vivacious vegan lemon poppyseed would make a bright accompaniment to a seasonal berry pie or cobbler, while the earthy, coffee notes of reishi and chaga could be paired with a dark rum. The vegan chocolate fudge, with its rich, mousse-like texture, is a perennial favorite with dairy and non-dairy eaters alike at Sauce HQ. On the dairy side of things, we’re loving the Italian butter cookie – like a gingery Biscoff cookie in ice cream form – and salted caramel-cookies and cream flavors.
$10 to $12. 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 573.234.0042, sugarwitchic.com
$12 to $15. Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery, multiple locations, clementinescreamery.com
Bold Spoon Creamery
Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream
Bold Spoon offers rotating flavors that showcase local products like fruits from Friedel Family Farm and coffee from Kuva Coffee Roasters, all produced at their farm in Park Hills. Complex flavors like the goat cheese and fig are particularly rewarding. Goat cheese from Baetje Farms brings a rich creaminess, and that slight salty edge creates room for the fig to emerge gradually, hinting at honey and sherry. $10 to $11. Straub’s Fine Grocers, multiple locations, straubs.com
Giofre Apiaries Honey Ice Cream
This Millersburg producer uses honey produced by its own bees to create ice creams with an extra dimension. Their peanut butter-chocolate chip evokes the texture of crunchy peanut butter with tiny marbles of chocolate. But simplicity also has its rewards – the vanilla is pleasant and creamy, yet it allows the honey’s floral notes and natural sweetness space to step forward and claim center stage. $6. Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com
Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery
Clementine’s non-dairy ice cream continues to blow us away, particularly
Soon to be based out of their new scoop shop in the Grove, Serendipity’s most satisfying flavors lean deep into the subject ingredients. The vanilla is the dictionary definition of “ice cream” – it’s perfect to pair with a brownie or some other chocolatey cake. The cinnamon would pair perfectly with any apple dessert, while the Gold Coast chocolate is among the most indulgent chocolates we’ve sampled in the city. Prices vary. 4400 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.962.2700, serendipityicecream.com
Nonna Sweets & Treats
In barely a year, Natalie Johnson’s pop-up operation has covered a lot of ground in the world of iced desserts. She’s done sorbet, gelato and ice cream, frequently offering vegan-friendly flavors, and occasionally boozy options too. The vegan coffee coconut is like a milky vegan iced coffee, but our pick is another vegan option, the Rocky Road, whose deep, dark chocolate base and suggestion of rum compensates for the absence of dairy. Walnut and marshmallow round out the experience without over-complicating the flavor. Follow Johnson on Instagram for popup announcements and info on how to place orders. 8 ounces: $10. Instagram: @nonnasweetsstl
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ice creams from clementine's naughty and nice creamery
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Summer’s here and the time is right for grilling in the street… er, backyard. Whether you’re cooking some grub in the backyard or would rather pick up ready-to-eat goodies, these spots have you covered.
July 2022 April 2020
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rubs, an artisan barbecue menu, over 500 beers on the shelf, more than 16 on draft, plus a whiskey lounge, gifts and free weekly events. Shop, taste and learn at four area BeerSauce locations. 14738 B Manchester Road, Ballwin; 10453 B Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur; 318 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters; 3880 Lindbergh Blvd., Sunset Hills, beersauceshop.com
BEAST Craft BBQ Co. BEAST is a nationally acclaimed barbecue chophouse by David Sandusky, boasting an in-house local animal butchery and live-fire dining. The Skullery is Sandusky’s chef’s table playground inside BEAST Butcher & Block, where he performs classes, carvings, tastings and their famous Live-Fire Brunch on Sundays. Known for dishes like the legendary pork steak, BEAST pays homage to St. Louis barbecue’s roots, specializing in grilling and basting in classic St. Louis style. Their attention to detail is second-to-none, which also makes them one of the most dependable caterers in town. And with a new food truck hitting the road this year, everything that makes BEAST Butcher & Block one of the top barbecue joints in America is now available in more places.
BEAST Craft BBQ Co., 20 S. Belt W., Belleville, Illinois, 618.257.9000; BEAST Butcher & Block, 4156 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.944.6003, beastbbqstl.com
BeerSauce Shop
BeerSauce Shop is a craft beer and artisan barbecue tasting and shopping experience featuring hundreds of “try-before-youbuy” barbecue sauces, hot sauces and I SAUCEMAGAZINE MAGAZINEI saucemagazine.com I saucemagazine.com 332I SAUCE
meats, as well as cheeses, sides and desserts, and has been in business for nearly 100 years. Some of their topselling items include the baby back ribs, either sauced or dry rubbed in full or half slabs. Specially selected, hand-spiced and carefully slow-cooked under the close supervision of an experienced smokemaster, they are considered by many to be the finest cut of pork. Order directly from the website or find their products in stores like Dierbergs, Schnucks, Straub's and more. 32819 Hwy. 87, California, Missouri, 800.624.5426, smokehouse.com
Bogart's Smokehouse
Planning a wedding, private party or backyard barbecue? Need corporate catering? Bogart's catering staff will help you plan the perfect barbecue menu. Choose from a selection of smoked meats like beef brisket, pastrami and tri tip and signature sides like pit baked beans, cole slaw, deviled egg potato salad and fire and ice pickles, as well as a variety of desserts including chocolate chip cookies, brownies and dessert trays. Call or visit bogartssmokehouse.com/ catering to learn more. 1627 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.603.2003, bogartssmokehouse.com
Burgers’ Smokehouse
Burgers’ Smokehouse is the nation's largest producer of cured and smoked
with Pappy’s own food truck. Pappy’s Rollin’ Smoke is perfect for birthdays, grad parties, neighborhood deliveries, block parties and more. Choose from a variety of menus featuring meats like pork ribs, pulled pork, smoked chicken, and beef brisket, along with sides like baked beans, potato salad, green beans and more. Call or visit pappyssmokehouse.com/ foodtruck to learn more. 314.326.1369, pappyssmokehouse.com
Navin’s BBQ
Navin’s BBQ owner Chris Armstrong grew up both in central Texas and the Kansas City area, so Navin’s BBQ offers a perfect hybrid of those two styles. They use an all-wood, off-set smoker to cook their meats and utilize oak and hickory woods for a delectably smoky flavor. The Jerk sandwich is the signature sandwich at Navin’s and is popular with the masses. There are also several smoked vegetarian and vegan options for those who don’t eat meat products or those just looking to up their veggie intake. Located in the South Grand Business District, Navin’s is open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Wednesday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. 3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.449.1185, navinsbbq.com
Pappy's Rollin' Smoke Food Truck What pairs well with celebrations? Pappy's Smokehouse barbecue! Pappy's Smokehouse was named Best BBQ in Missouri by Southern Living, so there’s no better way to jazz up your party than
Super Smokers BBQ Super Smokers BBQ has combined the tradition of blue-collar Memphis barbecue with down-home Cajun and formed a menu of memories. They’ve got all the essentials covered, from scratch-made étouffée to world championship gumbo and even housemade boudin balls. Did we mention championship barbecue, with award-winning whole hog, mouth-watering baby back ribs and fresh-sliced-to-order brisket? They have three ways to serve you with locations in Affton and Eureka, plus their food trucks and online ordering. 9527 Gravois Road, Affton; 601 Stockell Drive, Eureka, 636.938.9742, supersmokers.com
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July 2022
PARTNER CONTENT
by lauren healey Medical marijuana is here to stay and we couldn’t be happier. Check out the following dispensaries, manufacturers and cultivators when making your next purchase.
July 2022
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PARTNER CONTENT
their cannabis and all the hard work that goes into making consistently superior products. Find Camp products currently at 3 Fifteen Primo Cannabis, Greenlight Dispensaries and Luxury Leaf. letsgo.camp Clovr Clovr is a Missouri-based, leading manufacturer of edibles, pre-rolls, concentrates and extracts, offering a wide
You can find Clovr products at many dispensaries across the St. Louis area. clovrcannabis.com/wheres-clovr Glaze Glaze is a Missouri-owned and -operated indoor cannabis cultivator that holds quality as its highest standard as evidenced through its handpicked and hand-manicured flower. The state-ofthe-art facility produces 15 premium
BKind Dispensary Bkind Dispensaries are located in Concord and Imperial, Missouri, and are locally owned and operated by Tony Gianino and Joseph Barszcewski, the restaurateurs who own three Joey B’s locations. They entered the cannabis business because they believe strongly in the medicinal properties of marijuana. They carry over 70 strains of cannabis flower and over 60 variations of edibles, as well as concentrates, CBD, accessories and merchandise. In addition to a 10% off discount for military, veterans, seniors and low-income patients, they offer the very best reward program in St. Louis giving back $10 in rewards for every $100 spent. bkindstl.com Camp Cannabis Camp Cannabis is the only female-owned cultivation and manufacturing facility in Missouri. The facility aims to better the quality of life for every patient and is located in the logistics area of St. Louis with the goal of economic improvement by providing well-paying jobs. They’re deeply involved in Missouri's Medical Trade Association and have spent over three years working to get the industry off the ground and to educate the public on the medical benefits of cannabis. They intend to build out a 30,000-square-foot flowering canopy and bring a diverse selection of manufactured goods to Missouri. They pride themselves in the artisanal level of
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variety of consumption methods for every patient. Many of the products contain added cannabinoids like CBD and THC for more targeted effects that can easily be tailored to each patient’s individual needs. Clovr partners with worldrenowned chocolatier Christopher Elbow to create chocolate products, including chocolate bars and bonbons both in a variety of flavors. The team emphasizes quality raw materials in and quality products out for safety and consistency.
strains, including Sour Kush, Skywalker OG, Durban Poison and Lilac Diesel. Each strain is grown with utmost purpose and integrity. The most notable benefit Glaze provides Missouri patients is affordability without sacrificing quality. Glaze aims to be a reliable staple for Missouri patients and a company whose name reflects quality and fair pricing. Patients can find Glaze products at several dispensaries throughout the greater St. Louis area. glazecannabis.co/find-our-products
Justice Cannabis Co. // Bloc Dispensary Justice Cannabis Co. is a full-service vertical cannabis business that cultivates, manufactures and distributes highquality cannabis products to a variety of customers and patients across the United States. Bloc Dispensary is Justice Cannabis Co.’s growing line of national dispensaries. Bloc is a cannabis community designed with feeling good in mind. Choose from dozens of options of flower, concentrates, vapes, edibles, topicals and more. Bloc currently has five stores in Missouri: Richmond Heights, Farmington and Kirksville, plus drive-thru locations in Belton and Valley Park. The company will soon have 12 locations nationwide. New patients get a 20% discount by using the code NEWPATIENT20 at online checkout. There are also daily specials listed on the website. blocdispensary.com Terrapin Care Station Terrapin calls its dispensaries “care stations” because they are a one-stop welcoming shop for the whole spectrum of medical patients. They offer products in all shapes and sizes because patients come in all shapes and sizes. Terrapin pledges to bring high-quality flower to the people in the most inclusive way possible. They have dedicated Missouri horticulturalists who cultivate the finest flower for various traits. The result? A spectrum of products that reflects the diverse needs of medical marijuana patients. As Terrapin continues to expand in Missouri, they will not compromise on their rigorous standards and personable relationships. At all stages of growth, they will bring excellent and unique flower to the people. Three Terrapin dispensaries are open now in the Kansas City area, and Terrapin products can be found at dozens of dispensaries across St. Louis and beyond. terrapincarestation.com/missouri/
This ad is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients. Medical decisions should not be made based on advertising. Consult a physician on the benefits and risks of particular medical marijuana products.
PHOTO COURTESY OF CAMP CANNABIS
3 Fifteen Primo Cannabis 3 Fifteen Primo Cannabis demonstrates superior customer service and cannabis knowledge at two St. Louis-area locations: Valley Park and South City, as well as its storefronts in Columbia and Branson West. The dispensaries feature new deals every week and carry high-quality cannabis in the form of flower, pre-rolled joints, concentrates, edibles, tinctures, topicals and more. Stop by one of the locations for some in-store shopping, or shop online and get free delivery straight to your door with any order of $50 or more. New patients get 20% off their first visit and will earn an additional $15 in store credit toward their next visit. 3fifteenprimo.com
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
CARLTON ADAMS CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, OPERATION FOOD SEARCH
Carlton Adams is chief operating officer of Operation Food Search (OFS), a food banking organization that helps feed families and individuals struggling with food insecurity. OFS also operates programs directed at addressing root causes of food insecurity by partnering with hospitals and advocating for Medicare and other policy reforms. “The real thing about food insecurity is you are probably in the day-to-day looking right into the eyes of it, and you have no idea,” Adams explained. Here, he sheds light on OFS’ multipronged approach to hunger and why food banking alone will not solve the U.S.’ struggle to feed its population. – Liz Wolfson
“When I got [to OFS], I wasn’t fully appreciative of the difference between a food bank and a food pantry. So you don’t come to Operation
agencies and to others every day as well. We’re talking about full tractortrailer loads of meat, frozen foods […]”
Food Search and, for the most part, we don’t come to you and feed you. We [supply] over 170 agencies in Missouri and Illinois that actually feed our neighbors that are struggling with food insecurity.”
“We also have several food distribution programs where we
“We support food distribution through several partners like the
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
Urban League as an example, our retail partners, like our largest donor, Schnucks, [and] also large donors like Dierbergs, just to name a couple that we work very closely with, where we’re bringing in truckloads of food and sometimes other donated items that we’ll distribute to our pantries.”
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work with partners to provide really shelfstable product that is primarily focused on feeding not just families but kids in particular. So Operation Backpack, where a backpack’s worth of meals are delivered for kids to take home on the weekends in the school year.” “We have a summer meals program in partnership with library systems
“Most of our food comes to us through retail partners. We’ll
where we’ll provide meals during the summer. Many families, and certainly kids, are fed during the school year because they go to school, and that’s where they get at least one meal every day. So if you’re struggling with food insecurity, it’s a significant lifeline.”
recover food from restaurants at times – from our stadiums here in St. Louis as well. Generally speaking, that food would be picked up by our member agencies.”
“One of the things also under my umbrella is … we try to facilitate more farm-to-table opportunity.
“We’re bringing in product every day, and we distribute product to our
So we have a gleaning program, which means … we can come and bring some volunteers or some staff and harvest
fresh produce where it’s appropriate, based on what the farmers made available to us.” “Distributing food is critical, but
we recognize – and I would say that the food-banking community recognizes – that’s not enough. Because if you don’t have a school-age child, the programs that I just mentioned don’t reach you. And if you can’t get to a [food] pantry or don’t know how to do that, then that program, our largest by-volume program, doesn’t reach you either.” “We are partnering with healthcare organizations, like
Christian Hospital, Mercy, to deal with food as medicine. So, how can we provide nutritious meal kits that will help with diabetes, as an example, or will help with having a safe and healthy pregnancy and then transitioning into parenthood.” “[In the U.S.,] we throw more food away than we would need to feed
everybody that’s food insecure – it’s something like 28 million people. We’ve got enough food for them. That is not the problem.” “The proverb ‘if you feed someone [a] fish, you feed him for a day, if
you teach him to fish, …’ – that sounds good, but people have to have access. When you’re making a trade-off between keeping a roof over the family’s head and having a meal every day? That’s food insecurity.”
1644 Lotsie Blvd., St. Louis, 314.726.5355, operationfoodsearch.org
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
DOMINIC’S ON THE HILL BY I A I N S H AW
restaurant they bought was a smaller place than Dominic’s on the Hill is today. They expanded the dining room and scaled up the decor, crafting a stately space that nods to an earlier era with white tablecloths and walls adorned with paintings in ornate frames. Any long-running restaurant is shaped by its environment: cultural shifts, demographics, economics, trends, mood swings. In the early days, the staff at Dominic’s was almost entirely of Italian descent. Servers would ramp up diners’ anticipation by warming and plating dishes tableside. Those days, however, are long gone at Dominic’s, as in most places; simply staffing a restaurant these days is hard enough. These are also less hedonistic, free-wheeling times – the days of customers jostling for elbow room at the bar, the air thick with cigarette smoke, are a distant memory as well.
“I almost divorced him,” Jackie laughed. They had been in their house for less than a year, after all. But she embraced Dominic’s vision, and Jackie would come to play a key front-of-house role, building warm relationships that would sustain Dominic’s on the Hill across the next half-
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century. She helped set the tone when customers first entered the restaurant, making them feel “welcome like you are in our home,” she explained. “And I think that’s how we developed a lot of our customers, by just being nice.” Dominic was determined that his new Italian restaurant should retain the charm he and Jackie had enjoyed at Andreino’s, but he also wanted Dominic’s on the Hill to forge its own identity. Having held several front-of-house roles at Tony’s downtown, Dominic was influenced by the standards that were sacred at that St. Louis institution. The antipasti, pasta, meat and seafood entrees that Dominic, who was born in Sicily, developed with
help from Jackie’s Sicilian parents charted a course that would see Dominic’s become a favorite on the Hill. Dominic contrasts what Jackie calls “honest food” with the flourishes some chefs trade on. You won’t see radishes carved into floral shapes at Dominic’s, for example. “That doesn’t impress me,” he said. “A good cook is willing to learn and to put his whole heart into what he does. Those are the people I want to surround myself with.” The Galatis made updates to Dominic’s incrementally and only as the restaurant’s success allowed them. “We needed to make money first,” Jackie said. The
If you’re lucky, that experience might even include a song from Dominic, who has been known to serenade guests celebrating a special occasion. “They love it – especially the women,” said Jackie. Dominic is reluctant to call himself a singer but admits, with a twinkle in his eye, “I’m still having fun.”
5101 Wilson Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.1632, dominicsrestaurant.com
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PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
In 1971, hairdresser Jackie Galati was enjoying life in a “beautiful little house” in Ferguson, which she and her husband, Dominic Galati, had worked hard to save for. When Dominic told Jackie he wanted to buy Andreino’s, a restaurant on the Hill at Hereford Street and Wilson Avenue, there was just one catch. “In order for us to buy, we had to sell our house,” Dominic said.
In 1994, Conde Nast Traveler hailed Dominic’s as one of the two finest Italian restaurants in the United States. More recently, the restaurant received an award from the city of St. Louis acknowledging its 50th anniversary. Awards are nice, but that kind of recognition can be fickle and doesn’t keep the lights on. That’s why 50 years on, Dominic and Jackie Galati keep coming to work with a mindset that defies fashions, resists compromise and rails against phonies (a word Dominic uses frequently). “We want to give guests an experience,” Dominic said. “That doesn’t change.”
G I O VA N NI GAL AT I DOMINIC'S ON THE HILL AND D O M I N I C ' S T R AT T O R I A Position: Owner
Where did you go to school? Giardinello Scuola Cuinta Elementare provincia
got a job at Tony's as a busboy and eventually moved up to waiter. I had a dream of opening my own restaurant. After marrying my wife Jackie, we bought a home after living with her parents for a year. I found Dominic's on the hill and we had to sell our home to buy the restaurant. We moved into an apartment above the restaurant and the rest is history.
How did you get to where you are? I came to America when I was 21 and worked as a dishwasher at Stix Baer and Fuller, then worked at Ponticello's as a cook. Later I
New things going on in your restaurant: We are building a new patio at our restaurant on the Hill. It should be open in the next few weeks.
Married? to Jackie Galati Kids? Gina and Maria Galati Where are you originally from? Giardinello, Sicily
Favorite menu item: Linguini with clams Three cool facts about you: Cooking is my trade, I love golf and tennis and I enjoy carpentry. What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item? All of it! Dominic's on the Hill 5101 Wilson Ave, St. Louis, dominicsrestaurant.com Dominic's Trattoria 200 S Brentwood Blvd, St. Louis, trattoria. dominicsrestaurant.com
10,000+ items in stock and ready to deliver online ordering NOW AVAILABLE! Visit our showroom or www.fordstl.com 2204 N. Broadway • St. Louis, MO 63102 314.231.8400 • 800.472.3673
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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O
JULY
BY JAMES BOECKMANN
All American Pie Contest
Hazelwood Food Truck Night
Friendly local faces judge pies of all kinds at one of St. Louisans’ favorite farmers markets. Bring your best pie or stop by for the fanfare and a cinnamon roll from Bridge Bread. The market runs from 8 a.m. to noon, so come early or stay after the judging to check out the vendors. Free admission.
Head to Howdershell Park for food from local and regional favorites like Tuk Tuk Thai, Scoops & More and Blues Fired Pizza. If you can, bring some non-perishable food items for T.E.A.M. Food Pantry’s collection. Entertainment by Coach. Free admission.
July 2 – 10 a.m., Ferguson Farmers Market, Ferguson, fergusonfarmersmarket.com
July 26 – 5 to 8 p.m., Howdershell Park, 6800 Howdershell Road, Hazelwood, hazelwoodmo.org
Let Them Eat Art
Sauce @ Sophie’s
Every Friday and Saturday – 8 p.m., Sophie’s Artist Lounge, 3333 Washington Ave., Suite 102, St. Louis, 314.710.5647, Facebook: Sauce @ Sophie’s Food Truck Weekends Sophie’s Artist Lounge receives a food truck upgrade every weekend through August. Visit the Sauce Facebook page for the weekly lineup. Free admission.
Sauce Food Truck Friday
July 8 – 6 to 10 p.m., Historic Downtown Maplewood, samg.bz/EatArt22
July 8 and 22 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucemagazine.com
This tribute to Bastille Day offers live art and musical performances to supplement food and shopping from popular Maplewood spots. Treat your taste buds to Bastille Day the Creole way at Boogaloo or nurse a beer through a fun summer evening. Or both. Free admission.
Like tough choices? Tower Grove Park offers dinner from about 20 of our favorite food trucks on multiple Fridays this summer and into the fall. Luckily you can’t go wrong with any of them, any Friday. Free admission.
Pedal the Cause: A World Without Cancer Day
Taste of North St. Louis
July 16 – 1 to 7 p.m., Crown Square Plaza, North 14th Street and St. Louis Avenue, saintlaaafab.com
Aug. 5, participating bars and restaurants, pedalthecause.org/awwcd
Food, music and art from across the St. Louis area converge on Crown Square Plaza at 14th Street and St. Louis Avenue for a blocks-long celebration of citywide culture. Crown Candy will be tough to pass up, but food vendors from all over the city will be participating as well. Free admission.
Support cancer research at Siteman Cancer Center and Siteman Kids by grabbing food and drink from participating bars and restaurants celebrating A World Without Cancer Day. Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Ices Plain and Fancy and Lona’s Lil Eats are just a few of the businesses that will be donating a portion of proceeds to Pedal the Cause. Find a full list of participating venues online.
All About Napa Valley with Hall Wines: Five-Course Wine Dinner
Art Hill Film Series
July 21 – 6:30 to 9 p.m., Blood & Sand, 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com
July 8, 15, 22 and 29 – 6 to 11 p.m., Saint Louis Art Museum Art Hill, One Fine Arts Drive, Forest Park, St. Louis, slam.org
Enjoy a special night out with a one-of-a-kind tasting dinner from Blood & Sand. Expect the perfect atmosphere for exciting wine pairings from Kathryn Hall’s renowned Napa winery, Hall Wines, and an inventive five-course menu. Tickets available online.
This St. Louis tradition features a film, food trucks and live music. This year’s theme is sports and the movies to be shown, in order, are: A League of Their Own, Love & Basketball, Bend It Like Beckham and The Sandlot. Free admission.
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denotes a sauce-sponsored event July 2022
July 2022
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