the perfect chop
n ew kid o n t h e D e lm ar b l o c k · w h e re t o sip in t h e sun · summ e r’s b e st b o o ks s t. lo u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y June 2012
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J une 2 012 • VO LUM E 12, Issue 6 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checkers PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
RELATIONS DIRECTOR OFFICE MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES ACCOUNT MANAGER
Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Stacy Schultz Robert Severson, Lindsay Toler Emily Lowery Rebekah Wessels Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ligaya Figueras, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Diana Losciale, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Beth Styles Erin Keplinger Sharon Arnot Erin Keplinger Angie Rosenberg Erin Anderson, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg Jill George
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use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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contents June 2012
9 A La Carte
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Reviews 19 new and notable: Nico Nico: A Baby Brother Steps Up by Michael Renner
23 Dine on a dime: The Gumbo Shop Chasing Cajun Up River by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz
25 Nightlife: The Civil Life Brewing Co. The Civil Way to Play Hooky by Matt Berkley
27 Cook’s books: Rob Uyemura’s Favorites
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By Meera Nagarajan and Stacy Schultz
Home cooking 29 What in the world: Mangosteen by Ligaya Figueras
30 Vegetize it: Tuna salad by Beth Styles
32 One ingredient, 8 ways: Blueberries Baby Blues by Ligaya Figueras
34 The New Classics Bixby’s Shrimp and Lemon-Basil Lasagna By Ligaya figueras
Last course 52 Stuff to do this month by Byron Kerman
54 Five questions for: Jermain Todd by Byron Kerman
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cover details
features 38 The perfect chop It’s grilling season. Think you got the skills? By M i ch ael Renn er
44 AlFresco Drinking By M at t Berk ley
49 High on the hog Porky products to squeal about BY Byro n K er man
Lamb chops: p. 38
Photo by Greg Rannells new kid on the Delmar block: p. 19 where to sip in the sun: p. 44 summer’s best books: p. 27
= recipe on this page
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RECIPES | We’re gorging on pint after pint of fresh blueberries this month. Turn to page 32 for eight tasty ways to use the deep, dark fruit. Then, head to the Recipes section of SauceMagazine.com to find a trio of blueberry cocktails that are sure to shake up your summer gatherings. Blueberries on your shopping list? One pint isn’t enough. COOKBOOKS | Need new ideas on how to use all the farmfresh produce you can’t resist at the farmers market? Looking for a spark of creativity for the next time you fire up the grill? Check out our review of four cookbooks (p. 27) that will guide you through the height of summer. Then go head to the Blog section of SauceMagazine. com every Tuesday and check out By the Book, where we cook and share recipes from these books. Plus, enter to win a copy to add to your collection.
photo by carmen troesser
INTERVIEWS | Jermain Todd of local boutique green design-buildsupply firm Mwanzi is in high demand among area restaurateurs who want a touch of eco-friendly in their eateries. Read Byron Kerman’s 5 Questions interview with Todd (p. 54) to learn how he gives barn walls, doors and more a second life as furniture and other fixtures. Then go to the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com to catch the second half of the interview, where Todd shares more wood-splitting details about his growing green biz.
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, June 8 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. to hear more from our June issue.
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EAT THIS
The THREE KINGS’ WINGS at THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE have us acting like fiends every time we need a fried chicken fix. The crust is just right: crackling, crispy and golden with a seasoned bite. The meat is juicy and comes off the bone with ease, a hallmark of cooking perfection. We order ours dry with wing sauce and blue cheese dressing on the side. One bite with sauce, one bite with pure chicken, two meals in one, double the fun.
Photo by greg rannells
Three Kings Public House • 6307 Delmar Blvd. • University City • 314.721.3355 • threekingspub.com
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tasty under $10 Green Apple and Caramel Snow Cone: $3 (large)
Oh Lolli Lolli might be an itsybitsy candy shoppe, but when you order the green apple and caramel snow cone, you get a colossal portion of freshly made Hawaiian-style shaved ice. And we’re not talking typical snow cone ice here; this is real-deal ice so finely shaved, it’s fluffier than a white French poodle. Next, that snowball gets doused with tart, house-made green apple syrup and drizzled with rich Ghirardelli caramel syrup. And don’t be oh-so grown up that you deny yourself the garnish of one wee gummy bear. Now that we’ve found the frozen equivalent of a caramel apple lollipop, summer can’t come fast enough. Oh Lolli Lolli, 804 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.721.9600, ohlollilolli.com
It’s summer, so pull out your sunglasses, lawn chairs and these refreshing summer seasonals to help you make it through the humid Midwest heat. – Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales
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Goose Island Summertime Kölsch beers are one of the few German Ales available and one of the most popular German styles brewed in the U.S. This Goose Island Summertime Kölsch has a pale yellow hue that’s gold around the edges. It smells of a grass field and finishes smooth with a hint of marmalade and lemon.
Schlafly AIPA My saving grace during our long, sticky summer: Schlafly AIPA. A strong American IPA brewed with the fantastic Simcoe, Centennial and Amarillo hops, it explodes with big aromatics described as citrus, pine and floral. A silky, balanced backbone complements the awakening bitterness and robust punch of alcohol.
Leinenkugel’s Summer Shandy A shandy is often a blend of a beer and a citrus-flavored soda. For the summer, Leinenkugel offers this refreshing, lemonade-like, carbonated beer. With a brilliant golden straw color and a snow-white head, it’s perfect for any session drinking during a hot and humid day of outdoor activities.
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photo by carmen troesser
[beer]
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When it comes to food-court fare, we’re easily swayed by sweet-and-sour sauce: coating cashew chicken and tempura shrimp, doused over sticky rice or serving as a dip for your spring rolls or crab Rangoon. But why dine at the mall when you can whip up this sweet, tangy sauce at home in minutes, sans the unpronounceable chemicals? In a medium-sized pot, combine 1 cup of pineapple juice, 2 tablespoons each of rice wine vinegar, sugar, ketchup and soy sauce, and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in a small bowl filled with ¼ cup of water. Stir well, then stir the slurry into the pot. Add the sauce to your protein of choice – tofu, chicken, shrimp or steak – and never worry about eyeing that food court again. – Ligaya Figueras
$25. Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com
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photo by greg rannells
Serve sweet-and-sour sauce in this terraced olive oil dipping dish, made by local artist Mary Judge. Sold at Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation.
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RESTAURANT
playlist grillin’ Food hot off the grill and hanging with friends is what we’re looking forward to most this season. Matt Fournier, general manager at The Shaved Duck, suggested these songs to help set the mood for your backyard gatherings. – Meera Nagarajan Rotterdam Chuck Ragan Lovely Day Bill Withers
cook’s tip:
Zombie Fela Kuti All the Same to Me Lucero
cold-brew coffee
Clandestino Manu Chao
Think you have to buy pricey equipment to cool down your caffeine fix this summer? Think again. Just grab your French press and pour in ¼ cup coarsely ground coffee with 11∕8 cups of water. Stir to wet all of the grounds, cover with lid and let steep at room temperature for 12 hours. The next morning, filter the French press screen and pour the liquid into a mug or jar. Dump the grounds. Filter the coffee back into the French press lined with cheesecloth and dump the grounds again. Dilute the concentrate with water at a ratio of 1-to1, adding additional water as desired. Add ice and the fixings of your choice – cream or sugar – or keep your oh-so DIY cold-brew coffee in the fridge for up to 1 week. – Stacy Schultz
California Stars Billy Bragg & Wilco Devils in the Jukebox Ray LaMontagne Up From the South The Budos Band I’ll Be Your Man The Black Keys I Need a Dollar Aloe Blacc
[wine] Glenn Bardgett, Annie Gunn’s wine director and a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, weighs in on which wines to drink this month. Check your favorite wine shop or liquor store for availability.
June 2012
Roth Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Alexander Valley, Calif. Blended with 2-percent Viognier, the bright acidity of this northern Sonoma sauvignon blanc is screaming for your attention. Cold shrimp, fresh oysters or even just simple fish and chips will benefit from mingling with the exciting flavors of this $18 white.
“R2” (R Squared) Vin Blancs White Rhone Blend 2010, Santa Barbara, Calif. From Roger and Richard Roessler (hence R2) comes this smile-producing, palatepleasing blend of Viognier, Roussannne and Grenache Blanc. A few months of aging in older oak barrels allows the creamy texture to develop. Great for dinner or sipping while watching your favorite cooking show; at about $25, it will please your guests – even those sweet-wine-drinking relatives.
Château Font Mars Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Languedoc, France This aromatic and fun white is from the Piquepoul grape and grown in the region of Picpoul, in the Languedoc of southern France. Tropical and intriguing, there aren’t many $12 French wines with this much “drink me, drink me” going on.
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Sarah’s Melt Down get that crispy, crunchy “edge.” To keep crispness and avoid sogginess, the sandwich sits atop a pile of Sarah’s house-made potato chips. Circle the map. Sometimes sharing the street with its sibling, Cake Stop, Sarah’s Melt Down has done blitzes downtown and around the county. One of its biggest stops is at Market and Eighth Streets, with Earth City and Des Peres also on the map. “Right now, it’s a free-for-all; companies are calling and wanting private events with us parking in their lots.” Kill ‘em with comfort. Who doesn’t love grilled cheese? “I think it reminds everyone of their childhood.”
Jill Umbarger has been heeding the call of the food industry for nearly a decade now – from the early days of her cafe and catering company to her cupcake-driven food truck, Sarah’s Cake Stop. Now, she and her brother, Jeff Pupillo, are tapping into the ultimate duo in comfort fare with their new truck, Sarah’s Melt Down. Here, their rules for dishing out gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches and pot after pot of from-scratch soup. – By Diana Losciale
Keep your options open. Umbarger reels customers in with an old favorite, roasted tomato soup, and keeps them guessing with an ever-rotating second option: “Maybe a chicken soup, a vegetarian vegetable, a mushroom soup, a spicy enchilada.” Come summer, she just might shift into some cold fruit soups and gazpachos. Concentrate on quality. Grilled cheese aficionados, take note: Real butter, spread on the bread before it’s placed on the toasty grill, is the only way to
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Think outside the truck. The Melt Down has been booked for two weddings. As is the trend, they’ll be pulling up to the reception late-night, offering guests mini grilled cheese sandwiches.
hail from St. Louis’ own Hautly Cheese Co. Recruit ‘em early. Umbarger named her businesses after her daughter, Sarah. These days, Sarah’s following in Mom’s footsteps – working on the cupcake truck, baking and even washing dishes.
Sarah’s Melt Down, 314.471.7008, sarahsmeltdown.com
Know your strengths and weaknesses. Chef Washburn may decline to drive, but she does a killer job manning the menu and the mini kitchen on board. “She’s amazing,” said Umbarger, who has worked with her since the biz began. Use what you have. The Melt Down, actually smaller than most food trucks, has two panini presses, a hand sink, a triple sink, a refrigerator … hey, it’s a commercial kitchen. Two people can work in there; three’s a crowd, but it’s doable.
Harvest creativity. Where did all those grilled cheese ideas come from? Chef Stephanie Washburn came up with several, a customer came up with another and, at Umbarger’s family Christmas Eve gathering, everyone stood around “hollering out what they wanted on a grilled cheese sandwich. It was comical … everyone got in their two cents!” Expect to see the classic and six other varieties, including the BBQ melt, The Club and The Garber. What’s for dessert? Gooey butter cake, of course. Keep it local. Don’t expect Velveeta when ordering at the window of this artisan grilled cheese-toting truck. All slices
The Garber from Sarah’s Melt Down
June 2012
photo by carmen troesser
10 Rules for Food Truckin’ From
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reviews
new and notable: nico p. 19 dine on a dime: the gumbo shop p. 23 nightlife: the civil life brewing co. p. 25 cook’s books: rob uyemura’s favorites p. 27
Nico: A Baby Brother Steps Up by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan Gayman
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hrough all the ups and downs of The Loop, there was always the Tivoli, Vintage Vinyl, Blueberry Hill and Brandt’s Café. Last summer, Brandt’s shuttered its doors with owner Adam Brandt citing The Loop’s decline as the reason – a comment that rankled some people more than the cafe’s actual closure. Enter Tom Schmidt, the owner of Franco. In February, Schmidt Nico opened Nico – his new concept – in the 6525 Delmar Blvd., space, transforming Brandt’s diverse AsianUniversity City, Latin-Italian-whatever cafe into a western 314.727.0200, Mediterranean-inspired bistro. While the nicostl.com French-inspired Franco is named after Schmidt’s nephew, Nico is Franco’s little brother. Can’t you just imagine the lunch room bargaining? “I have a restaurant named after me. I’ll trade you my chicken paillard for your Twinkie.” Schmidt kept the same layout as Brandt’s but lightened the mood with Steelcase-gray replacing the blood-red colored walls, adding natural pine wood tables and Ikea-like pine shelving and racks to the bar. It’s a bit drab in the bright light of day, but come dusk, the colors soften with hanging Edison globes providing a cozy amber hue. As is the trend, tables are set with striped dish towels for a causal, farmhouse feel. Looking out through the floor-to-ceiling windows, you feel separate, almost calm, from the hustlebustle of The Loop. This is still the best place in The Loop to people watch, and the tight-spaced sidewalk tables are still prime property, despite the constant jostling from passersby.
A light phyllo shell encases chicken, rice, almonds, raisins and caramelized onions for the Chicken Bastilla. Spicy hot pepper sauce balances the sweetness of this traditional Moroccan dish.
June 2012
The wine menu, much like the food, settles around France, Italy and Spain. Fourteen reds, including a French rosé, four sparklers and 11 whites make up the well-constructed list; 12 are available by the glass. Local beers from Civil Life, 2nd Shift, Urban Chestnut, 4 Hands and Schlafly are on draft. Cocktail names pay hommage to famous St. Louisans memorilized in The Loop’s Walk of Fame: William S. Burroughs, Tennessee Williams, Phyllis Diller, to name a few. House-made focaccia – warm, soft and touched with sea salt – arrived with a fragrant olive oil for dipping. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
review new and notable: Nico English peas, chanterelle mushrooms and plump gnocchi – all doused in a tarragon cream sauce – act as a plush pillow for a pan-roasted Arctic char.
on the second visit got the Mediterranean treatment when served atop a mound of gnocchi, chanterelle mushrooms and English peas slathered with a delicate tarragon cream sauce.
An appetizer, Tortilla Española, with its layers of sliced potatoes baked in egg and topped with a spicy pipérade of red, orange and yellow peppers, was rustic and comfy. Pork belly for the carpaccio appetizer is cured on site and sliced at a thickness somewhere between bacon and paper-thin, the nine slices served under frisée, green beans and croutons tossed with Banyuls (a French dessert wine) and grain mustard dressing. For all that went into it, the dish’s description outshined its execution: not bad, just not spectacular. Entrees are cutely labled Main Events and change often. For the second time in
Don’t Miss Dishes Moroccan Chicken Bastilla, Chicken Paillard, Pappardelle
reviewing restaurants this year, I had chicken paillard: a pounded chicken breast quickly cooked. Nico’s version is breaded, pan-fried to a crispy, deep brown and doused with a caperolive oil sauce. Between the slight peppery kick of the breading and the saltiness of the capers, I’d call this satisfying Mediterranean comfort food – even more so with triangle slabs of basil polenta and Broccolini rounding things out. Along the same lines was the pappardelle: Rich, meaty Napoletano ragù made from chunks of tomato simmered with lots of tender pork (pancetta, pork shoulder and pork belly) clinging to long, wide noodles made fresh in the kitchen. Even a very fresh pan-roasted Arctic char that wasn’t available
Vibe Relaxed, casual bistro feel that can get loud when crowed
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Entree Prices $14 to $21
Morroccan flavors also figure prominately into the menu. The braised lamb with housemade harissa looked good, but we opted for the Chicken Bastilla: a traditional Morroccan chicken pie consisting of savory saffron rice, diced chicken and a crunchy-sweet mélange of almonds, caramelized onions and golden raisins wrapped in a light phyllo shell for a riot of textures and flavors. A squirt of hot pepper sauce provided the spicy contrast to the gentle sweetness of the dish, but I had two quibbles. First, not that I’m a proponent of hubcap size servings, but for $14, the portion was quite small. Second, my dining partner had ordered a spinach salad, overlooking that the dish came with a small side of just such salad. An attentive server would’ve pointed out the redundancy. Otherwise, service during our visits was informed, friendly and capable. Speaking of that salad, the greens were tender and fresh, but the shiitake dressing (now changed to a champagneorange vinaigrette) was far too gentle for the accompanying marinated yogurt cheese and roasted tomatoes and so light that even a hint of mushroom was hard to discern.
Where 6525 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.0200, nicostl.com
In a time of burger fatigue, Nico’s spicy merguez lamb sausage burger is a standout, like something you’d nosh on from a street vender while traipsing around Tangier. Redolent with piquant Moroccan spices, the burger arrived medium-rare and topped with baby spinach and a fried egg, adding delicious creaminess to the lean sausage. There’s a lot going on with this burger and the thick, herbed focaccia bread was just a bit much. An Italian, ciabatta or sourdough roll would interfere less with the meat’s spicy kick. The accompanying house-made root vegetable chips were a surprise treat. Afterward, there was Kaldi’s coffee to enjoy with some sweets. Madeleines – small, airy, spongy – came with a strawberry compote that even Proust would recall with warm fondness. Beignets were eggy and light, as they should be, and made decadent with a couple scoops of salted caramel ice cream drizzled with sweet, sticky blackberry-balsamic glaze and sprinkled with crushed almonds. The day after my first visit to Nico, Chris Williams, executive chef for both of Schmidt’s restaurants, packed his knives. It shouldn’t make much of a difference; the test of a good restaurant is consistency in the face of kitchen changes (Nico’s former sous chef, Darian Since, now leads the kithen.). Sure enough, subsequent visits proved my point. And all that chatter about The Loop’s decline? It seemed like trumped-up conjecture when sitting outside Nico on a spring eve, absorbing the rhythms of a vibrant district while sipping a crisp French white. Michael Renner has been known to frit ter away an entire af terno on sipping wine and people-watching, all in the na me of rese arch.
When Sun. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri and Sat. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sat. and Sun. – brunch June 2012
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review
Chasing Cajun Up River
dine on a dime: The gumbo shop
by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz | photos by Carmen Troesser
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The Gumbo Shop 9501 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.918.8747, gumboshopstl. com Entree prices: $6.50 to $19 Hours: Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m., Sat. – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
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Last summer, Jon and Holli Kercher bought beloved Rock Hill eatery The Gumbo Shop. Opening the doorway between the tiny original venue and the retail bay next door, they settled into the new digs with roux and okra in hand. So, is the good food and friendly atmosphere that marked the original joint still one of the city’s best kept secrets? ‘Bout time we found out. June 2012
building to a caramel color in a third pot, is added – along with that okra – to the saute. The Creole stew harmoniously blends sultry flavors of Gulf Coast shellfish with the subtle earthiness and strength of West African okra. Don’t forget a dash of salt and Crystal’s Hot Sauce; this otherwise beguiling stew is begging for it.
1. Southern hospitality The second you walk through the door, it’s clear that you’ve stepped into a place where low-and-slow is as much in the air as it is on your plate. The Mrs. runs the front of the house while her partner offers guests a friendly joke as they await their jambalaya. A laid-back atmosphere inspires you to pause and dream of the layers of flavor that so often result when the stove gets turned down a few notches.
2. The gumbo Considering the sign outside, Dan was hoping for more than one variety of the shop’s namesake, but a bowl of the light, okra-based soup is all you need. For this “white gumbo,” sliced okra is simmered for hours until its texture and irascible sliminess melt away. In a separate pot, andouille sausage, petite shrimp, onions and celery brown in oil seasoned with 21 spices. At the last second, the roux, which has been
3. Nothing poor about these po’boys An ideal lunch for the businessmen and families crowding the tables, the po’boys sport your choice of protein nestled in crusty white bread and “fully dressed” with old-school mayo, shredded romaine and a passable tomato slice or two. For those who favor spice, the blackened catfish (4) charmed with strong accents of garlic, cayenne, paprika and onion. The bold flavors of the charred catfish were unimpeded by breading and well balanced by the roll’s soft chew. Prefer your fish breaded and fried? Get the fried crawfish or catfish po’boys, whose sweet cornmeal breading rounds out their richness.
Jumpin’ jambalaya Don’t miss this hearty rice casserole in which pork tenderloin never missed a beat alongside smoky ground andouille, swimming in a thick tomato sauce. Warm
and satisfying with a hint of spice, it made for a lovely meal all its own.
5. Red beans and rice In Louisiana, red beans and rice is a dish historically cooked on Mondays, using ham bones and meat scraps leftover from Sunday supper. The Gumbo Shop preserves this tradition with its Monday lunch special. For a measley $7.50, the plate boasted red beans – soft, delicate, still al dente – married with white rice, onions, celery and sausage. The coarsely chopped celery provided much-needed crunch without overwhelming the balance between the smoky meat and sweet beans.
So-so salads … When merely contrasted with fresh romaine, the blackening spice that worked so well on the po’boys made the shrimp atop the blackened seafood salad too salty. The hearty, green leaves and rather mundane, manufactured croutons simply couldn’t stand up to the strength of the seasoning.
THE TAKEAWAY If a relaxing trip to the Gulf is out of the current budget, sail down to The Gumbo Shop for some red beans and rice or a big bowl of gumbo and a little NOLA spirit. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
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review nightlife: the civil life brewing co.
The Civil Way to Play Hooky by Matt berkley • photos by David Kovaluk
from drinkers who lounge about on even more communal wooden tables.
ORDER THIS:
The crowd at Civil Life is as easygoing as they come. Jeans, flip-flops and ringer T-shirts are the order of the day. On cool nights, the gravel-lined patio can get crowded with a mix of neighborhood regulars, couples and the ubiquitous post-college crowd. True to the European theme, the beer list is dominated by selections like British Bitter (probably Civil Life’s best), Munich Dunkel, Scottish Ale and CarlBock. At any given time, 10 or so selections are featured in two sizes: 8-ounce pours for $2.50 and 16-ounce mugs for $5. Start with a light, nutty glass of Vienna and work your way up to a thick mug of Black Lager; both were easy-drinking standouts as opposed to others like the Rye Pale Ale and American Brown, which pretty much fell flat. A nominal wine selection is also available, as are a handful of sandwiches and finger foods crafted in-house – nothing over $6.
The Civil Life Brewing Co.
The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillifebrewing company.com
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eeing as though I’m a hopeless slave to my credit card, I’d normally take a bar to task for only accepting cash. But I’m happy to make an exception for The Civil Life, a South Side brewing company and taproom that exudes a venerable time warp to the late 1800s. Looking to escape all our modern confusions? Tired of all the bells, whistles and Pinterests of the crazy workday world? The folks behind The Civil Life have paired things down considerably. In this mostly German-style brew pub, cold, handcrafted beers are swiftly pulled into dimpled German beer mugs and passed across the handsome wooden bar of a main saloon that’s seeped in Old World charm – the type of place where you half expect someone to strike a match and light a few Coleman lamps once the sun drops. Sparse and somewhat utilitarian, the taproom June 2012
is built into the corner of a giant metal warehouse. Were it not for a matter-of-fact sign over the outside door that simply reads “beer,” on the industrial side street south of Tower Grove, passersby would have no idea there was even a venue inside. This only adds to this place’s reclusive charm. Upstairs in a loft area overlooking the massive brewing equipment, patrons ease into straight-backed wooden booths and long tabletops meant to employ the myriad board games tucked away in nearby cubbyholes. Though I appreciate the rustic and minimalist vibe – no frilly décor, no neon signs – the upstairs space still seems oddly cordoned off and ill utilized. But the real scene is on the patio. On a Friday night, music emanates from a live two-man bluegrass group: one on the banjo, one on a harmonica and washboard, sipping on mugs of beer as they take the occasional request
The beers, like the bar itself, reflect the playful attitude of a group of friends hanging out to play hooky on a Friday afternoon. The joint is obviously a labor of love for self-proclaimed captain of the ship Jake Hafner who, after spending eight-anda-half years at the helm of 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar in Lafayette Square, decided to move on to open his own brewery with co-founders and brewers Dylan Mosley and Mike Bianco. Judging by the fact that every time I’m around town I see more and more Civil Life products on tap, this crew seems to be here to stay. With an imaginative selection of brews in an imaginative setting, The Civil Life is a great addition to the burgeoning microbrewing community. It might be a little underwhelming in terms of space; it might be a tad too quirky and off-the-beaten-path to add to your regular bar rotation. But this Old World hideaway is definitely worth a return trip for a special occasion.
About 10 of Civil Life’s beers are typically on tap, ranging from the light and nutty Vienna to the thick Black Lager. Want a sure bet? Go with the British Bitter, my hands-down favorite.
Though the brewery takes inspiration from several countries, Germany is at the forefront here — from the publike atmosphere right down to the beer, poured into dimpled German beer mugs, ready for the sipping.
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review
4 Books for Making the Most of Summer’s Bounty At Yia Yia’s Eurobistro in Chesterfield, executive chef Rob Uyemura brings European flavor to locally farmed meats, pastas and veggies. This summer, you’ll find him tending to the vegetables in his 1½-acre garden in Chesterfield. Hoping to do the same? He recommended these books for working with fresh-from-the-soil produce.
Chez Panisse Vegetables by Alice Waters “I went to Chez Panisse about 10 years ago. The whole philosophy is ‘less is more,’ and it’s all about the ingredients you’re using. Young chefs think more is better, but everything there was simplified; it taught me a lot.”
Cook’s books: Rob Uyemura’s favorites
Jamie at Home: Cook Your Way to the Good Life by Jamie Oliver [This book] has simple, seasonal recipes but, in addition to that, it talks about how he grows [fruits and vegetables]. It connects growing food with eating it. It’s about knowing where your food comes from, and I like that.
The Victory Garden Cookbook by Marian Morash “It’s a really old book; my mom first bought it for me. [It] shows you how to plant the vegetables [and] how to clean and prepare them.”
Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers’ Markets by Deborah Madison “They go to different farmers markets around the country and let you know what different places are doing and how they operate. It connects you with the farmer and tells you their stories. It has a lot of seasonal recipes.”
photo by jonathan gayman
The warm days of summer mean plenty of fresh produce spilling from our farmers market bags and lots of fresh meat to toss on the grill. Here, a few books to help you get creative this summer in – and out of – the kitchen. Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine.com, check out By the Book where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection.
Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Niger Slater Never again wonder what to do with that bushel you bring home from the orchard, thanks to this guide to using fruit in everything from duck to dessert.
June 2012
Charred & Scruffed by Adam Perry Lang and Peter Kaminsky Lang, chef-owner of Daisy May’s BBQ USA and Robert’s Steakhouse, brings his signature style and refined technique to your backyard barbecue.
Very Fond of Food: A Year in Recipes by Sophie Dahl Separated by season and then by meal, Dahl’s book makes readers want to live in her seductive world of fresh, simple, seasonal meals and sweet, serene photos all year long.
Barbecue & Grill by Stéphane Reynaud Take your barbecue skills to the next level with this helpful guide to over-the-coals cooking with flavor combinations that will stretch your imagination.
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what in the world: mangosteen p. 29 vegetize it: tuna salad p. 30 one ingredient, 8 ways: blueberries p. 32 the new classics: shrimp and lemon-basil lasagna p. 34
mangosteen?
The soft flesh of fresh mangosteen has only been available in the U.S. since 2007. Before that, Americans had to settle for this fragrant Asian fruit in canned or frozen form. Now, imported, irradiated, pre-bagged fresh mangosteen can be found seasonally in Asian groceries. But grab it fast: Fruit-lovers in the know nab this pricy produce off the shelves as soon as it arrives. Use it: Carefully cut the hard, thick rind in half so as not to pierce the delicate flesh. Once the halves have been separated, use a spoon to gently lift out the white segments. Offering a flavor that lies somewhere between peachy and lychee, mangosteen can be transformed into sweet treats such as jellies, sorbets or custards, but it’s best enjoyed fresh – as table fruit or in a salad with a few tropical fruit companions. (Some mangosteen segments will contain seeds. Just spit them out.) Find it: Olive Farmers Market, 8041 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.5168 and Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com – Ligaya Figueras
Mangosteen fruit salad 4 to 6 servings 4 fresh whole mangosteens 1 mango, diced 1 banana, sliced 1 cup chopped pineapple 1 cup chopped strawberries 1 cup blackberries Generous splash pineapple juice or coconut milk (optional) Toasted coconut flakes for garnish
photo by greg rannells
• Set the mangosteen on its side. Using a sharp paring knife, make an incision into the tough, thick rind at the midpoint of the fruit. Slowly cut around the rind, being careful not to cut into the flesh, until the two halves of the rind can be separated. Gently pull off one of the halves and, using a spoon, scoop out the fruit segments of the mangosteen. Separate the segments and place in a large bowl. Repeat with the remaining mangosteens. • Add the mango, banana, pineapple, strawberries and blackberries to the bowl. • If desired, add the pineapple juice or coconut milk and gently toss to coat. • Garnish with coconut flakes. June 2012
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home cooking Vegetize it: tuna salad
Tuna Salad Three Ways BY kellie hynes • Photos by carmen troesser
the sea. Used in small doses, kelp powder gave my tuna salad that slightly “fishy” flavor it’d been missing, especially when combined with black pepper and onion. Throw in some celery, a little mayo and some pickle relish, and it was just like mom used to make. Problem is, my mom isn’t the only one who made tuna salad. Like many Vegetize It columns before, I was faced with a classic, somewhat nostalgic dish that could benefit from any number of addins. So I shot for the moon and ended up with three I couldn’t choose between: a classic combination, a Mediterraneaninspired version and one that touts the flavors of wine country. All of them taste wonderful on toasted sourdough rye. Pick up a loaf at Black Bear Bakery on Cherokee Street.
“Tuna” Salad 6 Servings 1 15-oz. can garbanzo beans 1 15-oz. can cannellini beans 2 Tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp. kelp powder* ¼ tsp. garlic powder Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 12 slices sourdough rye**, toasted
L
garbanzo beans, thinking I’d whip up some hummus. Then I remembered our food processor went kaput earlier that week. Drat.
I opted out of rediscovering the frozen tundra of past cooking adventures and stood in the pantry, staring at the shelves, willing something to jump into my hands and reveal a brilliant plan. After several scans, I settled on a can of
Undeterred, I decided it was nothing my good ol’ potato masher couldn’t handle, so I set to work draining the beans and adding some salt, pepper, garlic powder and olive oil to get things going. About halfway through the mashing process, I realized I had the beginning of tuna salad. The texture was spot-on: a mix between mushy and half-mashed beans. It didn’t quite taste like tuna, but it sure was tasty. Besides, at that point, my arms were tired and my stomach was growling so loud it could’ve
ike so many culinary “aha” moments, the idea for the base of this recipe came to me during what I like to call a “college kitchen” day. I needed something for lunch but hadn’t gone grocery shopping in more than a week. My ingredient options were either in can form or sitting in the freezer in unmarked plastic bags (with an ominous layer of ice, I might add).
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been my dog barking at the mailman. I went to the fridge for bread, finding only the two butts left in the bag (Note to self: Butt-less bread would surely be the next thing since sliced.). I spread my bean mixture on top and called it lunchtime. Perhaps not one of my finer culinary moments, but I was satiated. And I’ve been playing with ways to tweak these beans into tuna-like submission ever since. The first half of the solution came with the addition of cannellini beans. A bit softer than garbanzos, cannellinis provide a creamier texture, so I don’t have to mash up the mixture as much. The second half, much like fish, came from
• Drain and rinse the beans. Transfer to a bowl and add the olive oil, kelp powder, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Mash lightly with a fork or potato masher until the cannellini beans are broken down but the garbanzos are only partly mashed. • Combine with your choice of add-ins (recipes follow). • Divide the mixture between 6 slices of toast. Top each with another slice. * Available at Cheryl’s Herbs, cherylsherbs.com ** Available at Black Bear Bakery, blackbearbakery.org
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1
Traditional 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1½ stalks celery, finely chopped ¹∕³ red onion, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. sweet relish 3 pickled okra, finely chopped 1¼ tsp. dill • Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. • Add the mixture to the “tuna” salad and mix until well combined.
3
wine country
2
mediterranean 1¼ tsp. fennel seed 21 grape tomatoes, chopped ¹∕³ cucumber, chopped 6 oz. goat’s milk feta, crumbled 3 Tbsp. hummus • Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. • Add the mixture to the “tuna” salad and mix until well combined. June 2012
30 red, seedless grapes, quartered 3 Tbsp. pine nuts 3 Tbsp. walnuts 1 ∕8 tsp. cinnamon Dash balsamic vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 12 to 18 leaves escarole • Combine the first 5 ingredients in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. • Add the mixture to the “tuna” salad and mix until well combined. • Once the mixture has been placed on 1 slice of bread, top with 2 to 3 leaves of escarole, then the second slice.
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home cooking one ingredient, 8 ways: blueberries
7 mint leaves; 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger; 3 to 4 teaspoons rice wine vinegar; and a pinch salt. Mix well. Serve with tortilla chips.
Baby Blues
5. Sabayon Try chef Carl McConnell’s recipe from his cookbook, Stone Soup Cottage, for this spring-perfect dessert. Place ¼ cup blueberries in a bowl filled with 3 tablespoons Grand Marnier. Macerate for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 2 ounces clarified butter in a saute pan until crackling. Place four, 2-ounce slices pound cake in the pan. Grill the slices on each side until golden. Make sabayon by combining ¼ cup sugar and 5 egg yolks in a bowl. Temper the mixture, then place over a heated water bath and whisk vigorously until it’s pale yellow and thickened. Add a splash chardonnay. Divide sabayon among 4 plates. Add to each a slice of pound cake and a spoonful macerated blueberries, drizzled with lavender honey*.
BY ligaya figueras Photo by Carmen Troesser
U
nexpected accents like cardamom and sage heighten the intense pleasure of one of late spring’s most beloved berries. Fall in love with these little orbs as you toss them into salsa, rice, even iced tea.
1. Muffins Combine 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal, ¼ cup brown sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder and a pinch salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together 1 cup milk, ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon cinnamon applesauce, 1 egg and ¼ cup finely chopped sage. Add wet mixture to dry and mix well. Fold in 1½ cups blueberries. Spoon batter into greased 12-cup muffin pan. Bake in 375-degree oven for 25 minutes. Serve warm. 2. Iced tea Bring 4 cups water to 208 degrees, just below boiling point. Steep 2 orange pekoe tea bags in the water for 5 minutes. Discard bags. In a saucepan, bring 1 cup blueberries, ¼ cup lemon juice, ¼ cup water and ¼ cup sugar to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 5 minutes. Add blueberry liquid to tea. Bring to room temperature, then refrigerate until chilled. Strain berries through sieve lined with coffee filter into pitcher. Serve over ice. 3. Red rice with blueberries Rinse 1 cup red rice in cold water. Fill a pot with 2 cups chicken broth. Add red rice, ¾ cup blueberries, ¾ teaspoon freshly ground cardamom (pods removed), and a generous pinch each of sugar and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 30 minutes, or until liquid is absorbed. Serve with roasted lamb or curried chicken. 4. Salsa Combine 1 cup coarsely chopped blueberries; ½ cup minced red onion; ½ cup peeled, seeded and finely chopped cucumber; chiffonade of
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Puremiel Lavender Honey available at Straub’s, straubs.com
6. Cocktail Combine 1 cup water and 2 cups Demarera sugar in a medium-sized pot. Stir well. Over medium heat, dissolve sugar, then add 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 2 cups blueberries. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until fruit breaks down. Double strain into a clean jar, gently pushing the back of a spoon against berries to release juices. Pour 1 ounce blueberry syrup into a Champagne flute. Top with 3 ounces prosecco (not cava or Champagne). Garnish with 1 blueberry. Reserve remaining syrup to prepare yogurt pops (below) and, for more blueberry cocktail ideas, visit the recipes section of SauceMagazine.com. Reserve solids (You should have about ¼ cup.) to prepare duck sauce (below). 7. Yogurt pops Combine ²∕³ cup blueberry syrup (see No. 6) and 2 cups plain yogurt. Mix well. Pour into 10-count popsicle mold and add sticks. Freeze until solid. 8. Duck sauce Combine ¼ cup reserved cooked blueberry solids (see No. 6) with ¼ teaspoon ground allspice. Place in small pot on very low heat. Add 1 cinnamon stick and let steep 10 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick. Serve with roasted duck.
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home cooking the new classics: Bixby’s lasagna We tend to shy away from heavy foods like lasagna during warm weather months, but this summer, Bixby’s has given us a reason not to dismiss such comforting fare. Leave the oven off as you prepare this pasta sensation of sprightly seasonal ingredients like tomatoes, leeks, basil and mizuna, all layered between thin squares of fresh pasta. The shrimp, grilled asparagus and melt-y mozzarella won’t leave you feeling full, but be forewarned: That sauce will tempt you to bring out the bread and start sopping. – Ligaya Figueras
Shrimp and Lemon-Basil Lasagna Courtesy of Bixby’s Callaghan Carter 2 servings For the shrimp stock: 1 lb. stock shrimp*, shell on 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 small yellow onion, largely diced 1 small carrot, largely diced ¼ cup tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups clam juice 1 16-oz. can tomato juice 4 cloves 1 star anise, broken 4 bay leaves 2 sprigs thyme
To make the lemon-basil oil, heat 1 cup of canola oil to 165 degrees. Pour the oil over 2 basil stems and the zest of 2 lemons. Let steep overnight.
To melt the leeks, blanch them in water and then lightly sweat them in butter.
For the lasagna: 10 sheets lasagna noodles, cut into 2-by-3-inch squares 10 tail-on shrimp Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 oz. melted leeks (see left) 3 oz. tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 1 Tbsp. butter 2 oz. mizuna (or arugula) 1 oz. Marcoot Jersey Heritage cheese, shaved** 2 oz. Marcoot Jersey mozzarella*** 3 asparagus spears, grilled Lemon-basil oil (see left) Chiffonade of basil • First, make the stock: Place a large pot over high heat. Place the stock shrimp (shell still on) in a food processor. Pulse until roughly chopped. • Add the olive oil to the pot. Immediately add the shrimp to the pot and cook for about
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* Available at seafood stores ** Available at Local Harvest Grocery, localharvestgrocery. com, and area farmers markets *** Available at Maude’s Market, maudesmarket.com, and area farmers markets
June 2012
Photo by jonathan gayman
5 minutes. • Add the onion and carrot, and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. • Add the white wine and cook until most or all of the wine has evaporated. • Add the clam juice, tomato juice, cloves, star anise, bay leaves and thyme. Turn the heat down and bring to a simmer. Let cook for another 5 to 10 minutes. Strain and set aside. • Next, make the pasta: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and stir to separate the sheets. Cook until al dente. Drain and set aside. • Heat a large saute pan over high heat. Add the tail-on shrimp and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the leeks, tomatoes and shrimp stock. Bring to a boil. Stir the butter into the broth. • Add the mizuna and stir to combine. Remove from heat. • To assemble: Place 1 pasta sheet on a plate. Top with a shaving of Heritage cheese and some cooked mizuna and tomatoes from the stockand-shrimp mixture. Repeat until all of the pasta is used. • Add the shrimp, mozzarella and grilled asparagus to the plate. • Garnish with the lemonbasil oil and basil. Serve immediately.
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the perfect
chop
It’s grilling season. Think you got the skills? By Michael Renner | Photos by Greg Rannells 38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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Grilling season officially began Memorial Day weekend, but given the mild winter we had, it never really ended. Now that summer is in full swing and triple-digit temps are just a lemonade stand away, it’s time for the Johnny-comelatelies to pull out the grill, scrape off last year’s gunk and get grilling. Burgers may be the most popular food to toss over those toasty coals, followed by steak, hot dogs and perhaps a chicken thigh. But nothing stimulates the primal carnivore instinct deep within our craniums like a thick, bone-in chop – be it lamb, pork or sweet, succulent veal. But turning out the perfect chop is about more than lighting the fire, tossing on the meat and closing the lid. There are a few prerequisites for success: a smoky, charred crust, spices that complement but don’t outshine the animal’s natural flavor and tender meat whose gorgeous pink flesh oozes with every bite. Before you can crack open a cold one and grab a seat in the sun, there is some basic knowledge you should have under your belt. Here, everything you need to know to make the perfect chops – from the cut of the meat to the level of heat and all the brining, basting and marinating in between.
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Tricks of the Trade: A little advice before you light the coals Brady Hanlen, owner of Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering, recommends bringing the meat to room temperature about an hour before grilling. When combined with the resting time, this results in less “plate bleed due to the meat not going through as much shock as it would coming straight out of the refrigerator.” It also cuts down on cooking time.
To brine or not to brine? Brining adds moisture to the meat, especially larger cuts. According to Hanlen, “all cuts lend themselves well to brining as long as [the brine] is not something that overwhelms the flavor profile [of the meat].” Be sure to use cold liquid in your brine, so it will infuse the meat with flavor – not cook it. Jim Lucas, owner of Baumann’s Fine Meats, makes his simple brine with kosher salt, brown sugar, a tablespoon of garlic powder and a few teaspoons of finely ground black pepper. For chops, a 3- to 4-hour brine is good, but Lucas likes to let bigger cuts marry in their brines overnight so he can get “the pellicle that’s formed on the meat.” What’s a pellicle? The tacky surface smoke sticks to, creating that flavor-filled crust that carries the taste of the grill right to your plate.
mighty Marinades If you plan to marinade your chops beforehand, be sure to give them at least 1 to 2 hours to soak up all that great flavor. Cover them or place in a sealed plastic bag with all the air released and turn every half hour. Before tossing them on the grill, drain the chops and reserve the marinade for basting later.
The rub Whenever you’re using a dry rub, brush the chops with olive oil before massaging in the spices. You can even make a paste out of the spices by pulsing them in the food processor and adding in a little oil as they work their magic. Rub the paste on both sides of the chops. And be sure not to go overboard on the spices, as you don’t want to outshine the natural flavors of the meat.
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How Hot is Hot? Even when a grill has a thermometer, experienced grillers use the hand method to gauge the heat of the coals. The longer you can hold your hand over the coals, the lower the fire falls on the temperature gauge. Wanna try it at home? Here’s how.
hot 2 seconds or less: 450 to 650 degrees
mediumhot 3 to 4 seconds: 400 to 450 degrees
medium 4 to 5 seconds: 350 to 400 degrees
mediumlow 6 to 8 seconds: 300 to 350 degrees
low More than 10 seconds: below 300 degrees
BUY IT Baumann’s Fine Meats 8829 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.968.3080, baumannsfinemeats.com Fresh pork
Kenrick’s Meats & Catering 4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb and veal
Bill’s Riverview Market and Meats 10009 Bellefontaine Road, Riverview, 314.868.0400, billsmarketandmeats.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb
LeGrand’s Market 4414 Donovan Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.4059, legrandsmarket-catering.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb
The Block 146 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.918.7900, theblockrestaurant.com Fresh pork Freddie’s Market 9052 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.968.1914, freddiesmarket.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb
Get grilling We’re not talking about smoking, where the cooking time is measured in hours and the amount of beer consumed. We’re talking grilling: high-heat cooking over bright, glowing coals. While grilling doesn’t take as much labor as smoking – with its smoldering logs, low-and-slow heat, and constant futzing – it’s no cake walk either. Some cuts of meat need indirect heat, some direct and others a little time on each. Some call for the lid to stay open, while others savor the steam bath a closed lid provides. Want to know the best way to grill each type of meat? Check out the “Method” section on each of the following pages.
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Charcoal or gas? Both will do but nothing beats the smoky aroma of a charcoal grill on a warm evening. Charcoal burns hotter than propane gas and imparts that “outdoor” flavor that’s infused in everyone’s favorite sticky-finger summer memories. Hard-core grillers prefer chunks of wood, like hickory, cherry, mesquite and even grapevine trimmings. Lump charcoal made from wood is a great compromise as well; it’s quick to start, easy to use and readily available. It also burns about 300 degrees hotter than charcoal’s 800 degrees. There’s just one rule here: Never use lighter fluid to start your fire. With charcoal chimney starters and grills with gas charcoal starters, there’s no excuse for adding petroleum flavor to your meat.
Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering 11037 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.966.8606, hanlensfinemeats.tumblr.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb and veal, fresh lamb on occasion John’s Butcher Shoppe 2608 Walton Road, Overland, 314.423.8066 and 503 N. Mill St., Festus, 636.931.7776, johnsbutchershoppe.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb, fresh lamb on occasion
Mannino’s Market 5205 Highway N, Cottleville, 636.441.7755, manninosmarket.com Fresh pork Mateker’s Meat and Seafood Shop 11642 Concord Village Ave., Sappington, 314.842.4100, matekers.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb Paul’s Market 1020 N. Elizabeth Ave., Ferguson, 314.524.3652, pauls.net Fresh pork, veal and lamb available by special order Straub’s Various locations, straubs.com Fresh pork, lamb and veal Valenti’s Market and Catering 6750 Mexico Road, St. Peters, 636.970.2992, valentismarket.com Fresh pork, frozen lamb and veal on occasion
June 2012
LAMB CHOPS Lamb’s sweet, robust flavor makes it a natural for the open grill. It’s also springtime tradition.
weight on top of the stack (A foil-covered brick will do.) and marinates them in the fridge overnight.
Butcher: Straub’s carries
Spices: Forget the mint jelly. The classic spices to enhance lamb’s sweet flavor are oregano, rosemary, garlic, thyme, savory, fennel, salt and pepper. Experiment with blends like herbes de Provence and discover the wonders of grassy cumin or the sweet heat of paprika.
fresh lamb chops, while almost all butchers carry frozen. Just be sure to call ahead.
The Cut: Loin chops are the most popular cut of lamb and are easily recognized by the T-bone running through their center. They’re leaner and more tender than their sliced-from-the-rack neighbors, easier to work with and better suited for individual servings. Look for well-distributed marbling and ¾- to 1-inch thickness. Be sure to trim off any excess fat.
Prep: If marinating, use an olive oil base, though yogurt and sour cream bases are also popular. Hanlen grills chops Carney Style, named after the late Jack Carney’s favorite method: marinated in a mixture of sour cream, minced garlic and Worcestershire sauce for at least 4 hours. The marinade creates a flavorful crust around the meat as it spends time on the grill. One Armenian friend’s grandmother stacks lamb chops with a layer of oregano and sliced onion in between each chop, places a heavy
June 2012
Method: Grill lamb chops as you would a steak: hot to mediumhot coals over direct heat on an uncovered grill. For medium, give it about 6 minutes per side; 4 minutes for medium-rare.
The thicker, the better Nobody likes a skinny chop. “Thickness is key when grilling chops,” said Hanlen, who recommended buying chops that are between 1¼ and 2 inches thick. Lucas likes his chops 1½ inches thick. The lesson here: Regardless of which animal is on the plate, thick is best.
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pork CHOPS When it comes to swine, we’re used to grilling steaks around these parts, but there’s nothing better than a thick, meaty, bone-in pork chop hot off the grill. Pork’s mild flavor makes it a good canvas for a slew of savvy marinades and spice combinations. But pork can be trickier to grill than other meats, as most tend to overcook it until it’s gray and tough.
Butcher: Pork chops are readily available at all major grocers and meat markets.
The Cut: “Either the rib or loin chop is fantastic on the grill,” noted Hanlen. Both are center cut, but the loin chop looks like a T-bone steak because the little fillet is still attached. Look for bone-in chops – and remember, thick is best.
Prep: A 4-hour brine will leave the meat juicy and tender. To infuse your pork with that great garlic kick, cut a few slits in the meat and insert slivers of fresh garlic cloves. These will only get sweeter once those chops hit the heat. Dry rubs are another way to add great flavor, but if you plan to brine, ditch the salt in your dry rub as you’ll have already tended to that taste bud.
Spices: The flavor combinations are endless, ranging from mild and gentle to smack-you-inthe-face spicy. Rosemary, sage, garlic and fennel work well together. Olive oil and balsamic vinegar play nicely with pork, especially when combined with fresh spices and sweet berry fruits. Or take a cue from Baumann’s house rub, which has a brown sugar base and a peppery kick from paprika, chili powder and garlic powder. Method: Hanlen recommends searing pork chops first over direct heat, then over indirect heat. This involves building a twozone fire, with a hot side and a cool side. If you’re using a gas grill, heat one side to high and the other to low. Grill chops on the hot side for 2 minutes with the lid closed. Turn the chops over and cook for another 2 minutes. Move over to the cooler side of the grill and cook, with the lid closed, about 4 minutes for medium-rare. When it’s done, it’s done The most common mistake home grillers make? Overcooking, especially with pork. Forget that old rule about cooking pork beyond recognition “just to be sure.” You want a golden brown, crisp crust, not an inedible piece of cinder. Pork cooked to a blushing pink is now standard at restaurants. And consider this: Even the USDA revised its recommended cooking temperature last year for all cuts of meat, including pork, veal and lamb, from 160 degrees to 145 degrees (medium-rare), with a minimum 3-minute rest time to kill any pathogens.
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veal CHOPS Veal is probably the least grilled meat, mostly due to price, availability and, for some, ethics. But its delicate flavor and tender texture is only enhanced with some time over those glowing coals.
Butcher: Some meat markets carry frozen veal chops, including Hanlen’s and Kenrick’s, while Straub’s sells ‘em fresh.
The Cut: Rib chops are the standard, but the loin chop is perfectly acceptable. Look for 1- to 1½-inch thickness.
Prep: If marinating, use an olive oil base mixed with lemon juice, grain mustard or red wine. Gremolada, an aromatic combination of minced parsley, minced garlic, lemon, salt and pepper traditionally used to top osso bucco, is an ideal complement to the smoky sweetness of grilled veal.
4 to 6 minutes, turning them once. Then, move the chops to the cooler side of the grill and grill over indirect heat with the lid closed for another 4 to 6 minutes, turning once, for medium-rare.
The day of rest Resting is the most important part of the grilling process, because it also allows the juices to be absorbed back into the meat. “People do not realize that the meat will continue to cook for a few minutes after you remove [it] from the grill,” said Hanlen. Let your meat rest for at least 3 minutes before taking that first bite.
Spices: Hanlen lets veal’s luxurious flavor speak for itself with a simple mix of coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper. Greek and Italian spices work well, as do the classics: rosemary, garlic, sage, shallots and thyme.
Method: Sear veal chops over direct heat with the lid closed for
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Alfresco Drinking A warm night. A cocktail in hand. And another on the way. When it comes down to it, life is a thing best enjoyed from a patio chair. With spring in full bloom and sweaters tucked back in mothballs, it’s time to venture outdoors and surround yourself with a few close friends and a few cold drinks. From lavish brick courtyards to panoramic rooftop bars, here are eight of the foremost spots in St. Louis to take in the air.
By Matt Berkley | Photos by Carmen Troesser
Cielo outdoor Sky Terrace
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Molly’s in Soulard
Iron Barley
Molly’s in Soulard
With the acquisition of the former Norton’s outdoor space, Molly’s expanded patio in Soulard has become the premier weekend stomping ground of the young and upwardly mobile college-kids-onsummer-break crowd. Expect stiff cocktails and expansive seating on an almost tropical, brick-topped patio. Looking to find your next ex-girlfriend/boyfriend? This is the place. 816 Geyer Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6200, mollysinsoulard.com
Cielo outdoor Sky Terrace
Still the swankiest patio our little town has to offer, the Sky Terrace at The Four Season’s Cielo restaurant and bar plays host nightly to a well-heeled crowd who makes no bones about throwing down extra cash for expensive cocktails (Even a Bud costs $6.). For a killer
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sunset view of the St. Louis skyline, there’s no better place to be kicking back in an oversized outdoor club chair and sipping a stiff martini. Or order from the new cocktail list, touting one of the cocktail world’s most of-the-moment trends: vinegar shrubs. 999 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.881.5759, cielostlouis.com
Iron Barley
Mostly known by would-be foodies for its appearance on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, Iron Barley has a hidden gem in its backyard: a makeshift beer garden and full bar to service a casual crowd who flock on summer evenings to take in some fantastic live entertainment. Come for the schnitzel and spaetzle. Stay for the openair drinks. 5510 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.4500, ironbarley.com
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360
It’s safe to say that the hype of last year’s much anticipated opening of the panoramic powerhouse 360 has settled down enough to allow ample seating on the absolutely gorgeous, high-end patio space replete with chic furnishings and perhaps the best view of the St. Louis metropolis. Those massive tanks of house-infused cocktails beckon. If you haven’t been to 360, go. Hilton at the Ballpark, One S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.241.8439, 360-stl.com
Tower Pub
In the winter, Tower Pub is a gritty, smoke-filled, neighborhood watering hole where, if you look at someone the wrong way, you’ll need to watch your back for the remainder of the night. Curiously though, the giant backyard patio is quickly becoming a warm-weather favorite for an eclectic, fun-loving crowd of friendly beer swillers who lounge around or toss beanbags into a corn hole. Grab a seat on the deck Monday nights for $2 pints of anything on draft. 3234 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.771.7979
Tower Pub, Sundecker’s at right
Sundecker’s
Most locals avoid the cobblestonepaved madness of Laclede’s Landing as if it teemed with the plague. But amid the overpriced touristy venues and clubhouses of lame debauchery, lies Sundeckers – an honest-togoodness neighborhood corner bar with cheap buckets of cold beer and a riverside deck on the Mississippi. One of our hidden downtown gems, Sundecker’s is a great spot to sip an afternoon away in the sun. 900 N. First St., St Louis, 314.241.5915, sundeckersstl.com
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Schneithorst’s
Despite the continued bitterness of years ago losing the Schneithorst’s restaurant proper (The greatness that was the Jägerschnitzel and potato pancake entree still haunts my dreams.), one can take solace in the fact that this West County institution still boasts one of the most impressive rooftop Biergartens. On steamy summer nights with a tall glass of Hofbräu and a giant outdoor TV screen, there is no better place to watch a ballgame. 1600 S. Lindbergh Road, Ladue, 314.993.4100, schneithorst.com
Lester’s rooftop bar – Central West End
Still a relative newcomer to the West End, Lester’s takeover last year of the old Companion location resulted in one of the smartest redesigns of commercial spaces the neighborhood has seen in a long time. Included was a cutting edge rooftop perch overlooking the bustling social epicenter of Maryland and Euclid Avenues – with a few outdoor flat screens thrown in for good measure. With limited seating, this is going to be one of the most popular drinking spots all summer. 4651 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.6040, lestersrestaurant.com
Lester’s Rooftop Bar – Central West End
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high on the hog A salt bowl cute enough to pinch. Cookies with snouts and curly tails. And the Best. Bacon. Ever. Get these porky party favors for Dad or keep ‘em for yourself. There’s even something for the kosher kid next door. This summer, there’s plenty to squeal about.
TRAEGER GRILLS LIL’ PIG Pimp your grill. This work of art is not only a conversation piece, it’s fully loaded with the necessities of a proper barbecue: large cooking surface, thermostat control and a stainless steel handle. Cooking outdoors has never been so fly. $1,900. Special order. Mac Hardware, 40 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.961.4522, machardware.doitbest.com
a-pork-alypse postcard set Nothing says “I love you” like bacon. At The Firecracker Press, postcards adorned with pork-tastic imagery are sure to let people know how much you really care – or, at least, what you’d like for dinner. Set of 4: $12. The Firecracker Press, 2838 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.776.7271, firecrackerpress.com
BAXTER, THE PIG WHO WANTED TO BE KOSHER BY LAUREL SNYDER
DRY-CURED BACON Get thee to a farmers market and find The Farmers’ Larder where the bacon is smoky and thick with a nice chew. It’ll liven up a boring salad or make a killer BLT. $6.80. Various area farmers markets, thefarmerslarder.com
PIG COOKIE CUTTERS Chocolate chips, brown sugar, a snout and a coiled, little tail. A push of the pig and you have swine-shaped cookies even vegetarians can indulge in. $1. Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, kitchencopia.com June 2012
Who needs Hebrew school when there’s Shabbat-loving swine to teach the kids about the way life works? A must-read for any kosher-keeping kin. $16. City Sprouts, 6303 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.9611, citysprouts.com
LARD: THE LOST ART OF COOKING WITH YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S SECRET INGREDIENT BY EDITORS OF GRIT MAGAZINE How many reasons do you need to cook with the comeback kid among fats? This cookbook offers 150 tasty ways to bring lard back into the kitchen. $25. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731 and 321 N. 10th St., St. Louis, 314.436.3049, left-bank.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49
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BACON BRITTLE Why choose between dinner and dessert when you can have your savory baked right into your sweet? Add some crunch and you’re in dangerously addictive territory. $5. Kakao Chocolate, 2301 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.2310 and 7272 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.645.4446, kakaochocolate.com
RSVP STONEWARE SALT AND PIG SPOON
THE WHOLE HOG COOKBOOK: CHOPS, LOIN, SHOULDER, BACON AND ALL THAT GOOD STUFF BY LIBBIE SUMMERS She grew up on a hog farm in rural Missouri. She cut her teeth developing recipes for the queen of butta Paula Deen. And now, Libbie Summers is bringing nose-to-tail from your menu to your kitchen with this all-inclusive guide to putting pig on the plate. $30. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731 and 321 N. 10th St., St. Louis, 314.436.3049, left-bank.com
For home cooks who measure in pinches and smidges, this old-fashioned salt keeper will keep you connected to your porky Midwestern roots. That it’s available in blue or pink is such an East Coast option. $10. Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, kitchencopia.com
SNACK STICKS FROM TODD GEISERT FARMS Comparing these artisanal snack sticks – made from happy, naturally raised pigs on a nearby farm – to ol’ fashioned beef jerky would be like putting lipstick on a pig. Classier, tastier and available in five finger-licking flavors, we betcha can’t have just one. $4.25. Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com
PIG TEAPOT
bacon brittle photo by carmen troesser
All that’s missing from this mama pig and piglets teapot by local artist Jimmy Liu are bacon-flavored tea bags. $150. Special order. Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.1177, craftalliance.com
CERAMIC PIG SERVING BOWL Find any excuse to use this bowl (We’re partial to the teal.). It’s a little bit country, yet the crackling glass texture gives it a chic finish. $68. The Porch, 1700 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.436.0282, soulardporch.com June 2012
HAMPTON AVE. T-SHIRT Rep your city and your love of the P.I.G. in this HAMpton Ave. T-shirt from 314 Threads. $25. 314threads.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
stuff to do:
this month by Byron Kerman
IndiHop June 2 – noon to 6 p.m., The Grove and Cherokee Street neighborhoods 314.535.5311 facebook.com/IndiHop They’re describing this one as “50 beers, 12 street performers, 3 shuttles, 2 neighborhoods and 1 great time.” IndiHop is a new beer festival staged in two of the area’s hot, be-seen neighborhoods: The Grove and Cherokee Street. Admission to the fest includes an IndiHop glass beer mug for tasting (You get to take it home, too.), samples of more than 50 craft beers, and a shuttle to bop safely back and forth between the ‘hoods. Ten of the areas small-batch brewers are involved in the party. Between sips, check out live music, art demos and street performers, and look for shopping and dining specials at all the nearby businesses. The ticket price, just $10 in advance and $15 the day of, makes this one sound like a winner.
International Cheese, Wine and Canine Festival June 9 – 6 to 10 p.m., Purina Event Center 314.982.3232 · purina.com You know who really likes cheese? Dogs. I mean, sure, we love a nice Danish blue with red grapes as much as the next voluptuary, but to a dog, cheese is truly the food of the gods. With that in mind, the dog-ophiles at Purina Farms have planned an event to celebrate the wines, cheeses and furry, four-legged friends of the world. The International Cheese, Wine and Canine Festival promises wine and cheese samplings; crackers, fruits, breads and
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olive oils for dipping; plus how-do-you-do’s with such breeds as the Pembroke Corgi (England), the Basenji (Africa), the Chinese Crested (China) and nearly three dozen more. Also, look for ethnic dancing and demos by sommeliers. But please, don’t feed the four-legged – just yourself.
National PEZ Convention June 14 to 16, Marriott St. Louis West · 314.293.0179 pezconvention.com PEZ dispensers aren’t just cute little toys; they’re also a great way to impress a first date. Puncture the high nervousness of that initial dinner with a surprise dessert – just whip out the PEZ dispenser you’ve secreted in your purse or pocket, and hold it out to the gal or fella across the two-top. “PEZ?” you offer. The laughter that will ensue is a bonding moment that the two of you might just never forget. Consider selecting a campy PEZ candy dispenser with “historical significance,” if you will, at John “CoolPEZMan” Devlin’s 20th annual National PEZ Convention. This gathering, a riot of colorful plastic gewgaws and the colorful collectors who love them, is guaranteed to entertain kids and adults alike. Look for hotel-room and trading-room sales events, games, raffles, swapping, trivia and lectures. The giant oversized dispensers, rare prototype models and spirited digging through blister packs must be experienced as a bucket-list item.
Around the World Wine Dinner June 15 – 6:30 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden 314.577.0200 · mobot.org The Missouri Botanical Garden’s Around the World Wine Dinners take
on a question of vital importance this month: What’s the best wine to pair with General Tso’s chicken? Chefs from Catering St. Louis will create a classic Chinese-American menu inspired by the beloved restaurants of San Francisco’s Chinatown, with each course paired with a different wine from nearby Napa Valley. These dinners are served in different locations in the garden; if the weather cooperates, it may be outdoors, amongst the flora. This particular dinner is one of many events held in conjunction with the blockbuster Chinese Lantern Festival going on at the garden. Advance reservations required.
Sustainable Backyard Tour
June 24 – 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., see website for locations sustainablebackyardtour.com They call it “living light and living right.” You know what they mean – growing fresh and delish veggies and herbs yourself. Rainwater collection. Composting. Low-maintenance lawn care. Maybe raising chickens or bees, even a goat or two. It’s all part of what’s called sustainability, and it’s super-easy to get started minimizing your impact on the planet. It’s also really fun to troop into a group of private residential backyards and see how your neighbors are doin’ it. The second annual free, selfguided, open-house tour of sustainable outdoor spaces in and around St. Louis goes down this month, sponsored by Home Eco. Tour organizers will offer presentations at each house on the tour, which features yard spaces ranging from tiny to jumbo. Check out photos from last year’s tour at the site above.
Food on Film June 25 – 7:30 p.m., additional dates below, Schlafly Bottleworks · 314.241.2337 · slowfoodstl.org For those who notice these sorts of things, the number of documentaries pertaining to food activism that are being released these days is just, well, a bumper crop. And Slow Food St. Louis has arranged to screen a whole bevy of them right here in town. This month, Forks Over Knives will debut on June 25, divulging the perils of animal-based and processed foods. But the lineup continues through the fall: One Man, One Cow, One Planet (July 23, on the “bio-colonialism of multinational corporations” and the promise of “biodynamics”); Planeat (Aug. 27, on three men’s lifelong searches for a diet good for their health, the environment and the planet’s future); Cafeteria Man (Sept. 24, on chef Tony Geraci’s mission to radically reform Baltimore’s public school food system); and finally, Waste Land (Oct. 22, on renowned artist Vik Muniz’s journey to his native Brazil and the world’s largest garbage dump in Rio de Janeiro). Admission is a suggested donation of $5, which benefits Slow Food St. Louis’ Small Farm Micro Biodiversity Grants. Denotes a Sauce sponsored event. June 2012
s t u ff to d o t h is m o n t h
sponsored events Circus Flora May 31 to June 24 – Grand Center 314.289.4043 · circusflora.org Now in its 26th year, Circus Flora celebrates the magic of the circus with an all new performance about Merlin the Wizard and the many legends of King Arthur.
Art and Air June 1 to 3 – Corner of Lockwood and Bompart Webster Groves · 314.968.6500 · artandair.com Webster Groves’ annual celebration of art, music and food returns for its ninth year with the work of more than 100 local artists, musical performers and, of course, good food and wine.
Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Fridays June 8 – 5 to 8 p.m., southwest corner of Tower Grove Park · 314.772.8004 · saucemagazine.com/ foodtruckfriday.php Join us for the second Food Truck Friday of the season, a free monthly event where local food trucks will gather for an evening of friends, fun and plenty of good food. (Entrance is free.)
Sauce Celebrity Chef Series: Adam Perry Lang June 15 – noon, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood 314.367.6731 · eventbrite.com Join us as we welcome chef Adam Perry Lang to discuss and sign his latest book, Charred & Scruffed. Pappy’s Smokehouse’s Mike Emerson will be preparing a three-course barbecue menu inspired by Lang’s book for the event, using meat from area farmers. Tickets cost $45 and include food, drink and a copy of Charred & Scruffed.
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5 Questions for Next time you eat at a new restaurant around town, look under your plate, at the actual table. There’s a chance it’s salvaged local wood, transmogrified into classy, eco-friendly furniture. Some area restaurants that want to turn an old barn wall, a door or even a pallet into a re-purposed table turn to Jermain Todd’s furniture company, Mwanzi.
Mwanzi, 2757 Wyoming St., St. Louis, 314.200.4123, by appointment only, mwanzi.com For part 2 of this interview, visit the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com.
1. How did you get started? I started Mwanzi, which means “bamboo” in Swahili, in 2005 as a distributor of bamboo flooring. I eventually opened a small showroom. I was selling a lot of bamboo plywood to furniture designers and one day something clicked and I thought, I can do this. I learned about sustainable goods made out of sorghum and sunflower husks, etc. I started fooling around with coffee tables and bookcases. I got my own tools and a woodshop, and here we are with our own cabinetry and furniture line and lots of custom furniture. 2. Where can we find some of your stuff around town? At 4 Hands Brewery in the tasting room and at Nico. We’re going to be redoing the interior for Sweet Art. We’re also working on a big project for the new Pi downtown and hoping to do some benches for Sump Coffee. 3. More and more restaurants are turning to local, sustainably sourced wood for that farmhouse feel. Companies [want] to incorporate something local into the space to say something about the community. Reclaimed doors from a warehouse down the street have history and value. At 4 Hands Brewery, we made a community table out of the building’s original dock door. People can say, “That’s St. Louis, that’s our town.”
5. How did you gravitate to this kind of work? I wanted to do something that mattered. If it’s sustainable, it’s going to be around for a long time. We sell hardwood that’s culled in such a way that the forest still exists. We won’t use wood treated with formaldehyde. Sustainable products will eventually become the norm, but it takes effort from folks like me and consumers. – Byron Kerman
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Photo by jonathan gayman
4. Tell us more about what you’re doing for Pi. We’re doing some pieces using something probably never used in a restaurant before – re-planed shipping-pallet woods that we gathered from around St. Louis. We found about 25 to 30 pallets, prepped the wood, cut it, stained it a red color, jointed it, planed it and made about 42 feet of booth seating with it. You’ll see nail holes, saw and paint marks, and odd text that you’ll find on pallets left in there. It adds to the character.
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