bbq'd bacon cheddar burger from quincy street bistro p. 40
no-sweat SUMMER THE MUST-HAVE BURGERS, BRATS AND BEERS FOR THE PERFECT BACKYARD COOKOUT
12 DISHES
THE ONLY VODKA
CLASSIC COCKTAIL
SERVERS LOVE
YO U N E E D
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P. 29
ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY
June 2015
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GRILLED CHEESE (IT'S NOT WHAT YOU THINK.) P. 35 FREE, JUNE 2015
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contents JUNE 2015
editors' picks
31
WINE Best of Bandol
11
by ben wood
EAT THIS Sticky rice and mango at Mai Lee
32
VEGETIZE IT
13
Veggie burger
HIT LIST 4 new places to try this month
by kellie hynes 35
14
INSIDE THE SERVER'S STOMACH compiled by sara graham
MAKE THIS Grilled halloumi
by dee ryan
reviews 19
NEW AND NOTABLE Social Gastropub
by michael renner
48
STUFF TO DO by byron kerman 50
22
POWER LUNCH Spare No Rib - Central West End
by byron kerman 25
NIGHTLIFE Taha'a Twisted Tiki
by matt berkley
dine & drink 29
A SEAT AT THE BAR PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
last course
WHAT I DO Vince Valenza of Blues City Deli
by ligaya figueras
Features 36
A NEW CLASS OF COCKTAILS by ted kilgore
40
NO-SWEAT SUMMER
Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
The must-have burgers, brats and beers for the perfect backyard cookout
by glenn bardgett, cory king, and ted and jamie kilgore
by ligaya figueras, georgia kaye, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and kristin schultz
June 2015
Sub Zero Vodka Bar's Jamaican Jerk Burger p. 41
COVER DETAILS No-Sweat Summer Transform your backyard cookout into a summer stunner with the BBQ'd Bacon Cheddar Burger from Quincy Street Bistro. Get the recipe for this and 13 other delicious dishes on p. 46. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
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J U N E 2 015 • VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 6 What's PUBLISHER your favorite EXECUTIVE EDITOR poolside ART DIRECTOR drink? MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL
SPECIAL SECTIONS EDITOR STAFF WRITER FACT CHECKERS PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Champagne before noon, dark rum and pineapple after
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
The beer that's in my hand
EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR INTERNS
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2015 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
Allyson Mace 4 Hands Send Help in one hand, Ligaya Figueras Contact High in Meera Nagarajan the other Catherine Klene Ligaya Figueras Kristin Schultz Jackie Parker, Kristin Schultz Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Catherine Klene Sherrie Castellano, Jonathan Gayman, Elizabeth Jochum, Elizabeth Maxson, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Garrett Faulkner, Jackie Parker Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ligaya Figueras, Sara Graham, Kellie Hynes, Georgia Kaye, Byron Kerman, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Ben Wood Rebecca Ryan Rebecca Ryan Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Georgia Kaye, Rima Parikh, Victoria Sgarro
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EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.
Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 June 2015
letter from the editor
Kingside Diner 4651 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.3957, kingsidediner.com Aaron Teitelbaum and I play a friendly game of chess at his newly opened Kingside Diner.
C PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
heckmate! I never get to say that because I’m lousy at chess, unlike my kids. One is a member of the U.S. Chess Federation, and the other has schooled me on the famed Immortal Game, a friendly match played during the first international chess tournament in 1851.
I will play chess if pressed, but during the match my thoughts always drift to the courts of early modern Europe, my favorite non-culinary topic. Kings, queens and the dance of strategizing courtiers – I’m obsessed with the political jousting (and regal costumes) of the old houses of England, France, Spain and Italy. One misstep and it’s off with your head. The right word, a savvy maneuver, and you’ve elevated your family just like Thomas Boleyn. I love tracing the lives of historical figures, learning about their formative years, their pivotal, life-changing moments and the individuals who played a role in those scenes. That’s why I’m playing chess with Aaron Teitelbaum, the ultimate kingmaker. Teitelbaum’s nowdefunct restaurant, Monarch, which he opened in 2003 with business partner Jeff Orbin, was a breeding ground for culinary talent. June 2015
The faces of major players in our current dining scene are ones you likely first laid eyes on at Monarch. Moreover, 11 people who used to claim a Monarch paycheck are now cutting checks for their own restaurants, bars or food businesses. They include: Tommy Andrew (Inappropriate Apiaries), Max Crask (Ices Plain & Fancy), Meredith Frank (Sissy Belle Cookie Co.), Brian Hale (Jax Café), Brian Hardesty (Guerrilla Street Food), Ted Kilgore (Planter’s House), Jen Flath Libbra (The Chocolate Affair), Ryan Maher (Missouri Wild Edibles), Christine Meyer and Mike Miller (Kitchen Kulture) and T.J. Vytlacil (Blood & Sand). Another two will open doors to their own eateries this month – Bob Brazell (Byrd & Barrel) and Rick Lewis (Southern) – and Chad George’s bar/restaurant The Way Back is anticipated to open in Denver by year’s end. Numerous others who held tenure at Monarch are today’s leaders, like The Libertine’s executive chef, Josh Galliano, and Niche Food Group’s director of service, Matt McGuire. The contagious spirit and creative energy that characterized Monarch live on in these former employees who rose to claim thrones of their own. Though the Monarch era ended in 2012 (2014 as a private event space), Teitelbaum’s has not. Besides
operating the storied Herbie’s Vintage ’72, he just opened Kingside Diner – appropriately named, since it’s adjacent to the Chess Club and Scholastic Center of Saint Louis in the Central West End. (Read more about Kingside Diner on p. 13.) And he continues to groom culinary talent, like Chris Vomund, executive chef at Herbie’s and Kingside, who demonstrates a knack for flavor combos with the diner’s playful Thanksgiving All Year sandwich. Teitelbaum isn’t the only restaurateur to see talent flourish in his kitchen. We could wax poetic about all the area restaurant magnates who have cultivated upand-comers, but there’s a more important question at hand: Which house will give rise to tomorrow’s dynasty of St. Louis chefs? While you ponder that, I’ll make my move official: 23. Be7#. Cheers,
Ligaya Figueras, executive editor saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
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editors' picks
EAT THIS
“It’s so Asian,” said MAI LEE’s Qui Tran of the restaurant’s STICKY RICE AND MANGO. We wholeheartedly agree. A mound of hot sticky rice is covered in a warm, delicate sauce of sweetened coconut milk and adorned with cool, golden
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
mango. Textures and temperatures interplay to transform a trio of Asian staples into an unexpectedly epicurean dessert.
8396 MUSICK MEMORIAL DRIVE, BRENTWOOD, 314.645.2835, MAILEESTL.COM
June 2015
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hit list
4 new places to try this month
4 Owner Tamara Keefe has peddled her rich ice creams to dozens of St. Louis-area restaurants since last fall, and now customers can snatch up “naughty” (alcohol-infused) and “nice” (non-alcoholic) creations any time at the petite shop in Lafayette Square. A rotating selection of 24 ice creams is made ultra-creamy thanks to a high 16- to 18-percent butterfat content. Try flavors like Manchego with Truffles and Honey (featuring local label Woodside) or Salted Crack Caramel swirled with house-made caramel and chocolatecovered cracker candy. Chocoholics can indulge in the luxurious (and surprisingly vegan) Coconut Chocolate Fudge made with Patric chocolate. Order your scoops in a house-made waffle cone or, for a sophisticated sundae, get a waffle bowl and top your selection with house hot fudge lightly spiced with cumin and cinnamon.
CLEMENTINE'S CREAMERY
1 Alton has stepped up its restaurant game in recent months, and the newest addition to the roster is Elijah P.’s, serving up creative burgers, hearty appetizers and plenty of suds. The massive space boasts more than 200 seats between the large dining room, bar and spacious outdoor pavilion. Chef Jarvis Putnam helms the kitchen, creating a menu of approachable dishes like potato croquettes studded with ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano, breaded with crushed potato chips and served with house-made ranch dressing. Burgers make up the core of Elijah P.’s entrees (order the BaconJamBrie), but generously sized appetizers like littleneck clams swimming in a fragrant broth of chorizo, white wine, tequila, clam juice and garlic can easily serve as a meal. Among the 60 draft brews and 40 bottled varieties, look for Alton breweries Templar and Old Bakery Beer, heavy hitters from The Lou like 4 Hands and Urban Chestnut, and numerous other standout beers from the Midwest.
Traditional diner fare gets the royal treatment at Kingside Diner. Located next to Saint Louis Chess Club, the chess-themed daily eatery features fare fit for a king but sold at plebeian prices. If breakfast is on your mind any time of day, order the Kingside Slinger, which piles pulled pork, chorizo chili and fried eggs atop crispy hash browns. Those who waver between waffles and French toast don’t have to choose with Waffled French Toast, brioche that bathes for a day in French toast batter before getting pressed in the waffle iron. For lunch, try the Trout and Greens Salad, or dig into the Thanksgiving All Year sandwich, which combines the flavors of the best food holiday into one giant sammie.
401 Piasa St., Alton, 618.433.8445, elijahps.com
4651 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.3957, kingsidediner.com
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
ELIJAH P.’S
This diminutive downtown cocktail bar squeezes in 10 seats – and that’s if three people don’t mind getting cozy on the couch. With real estate at a premium, quality trumps quantity behind the bar. The cocktail menu, created by Planter’s House coowner Ted Charak, shakes up classic cocktails like martinis and Manhattans, as well as a few originals. The 1∕8th Cocktail, an eight-part sipper that’s fruity and rum-forward, was made in tribute to Eddie Gaedel, the dwarf with a brief baseball career as No. 1∕8 for the St. Louis Browns. Five rotating local draft brews are also available, as well as glass pours of exactly one red, white, rosé and sparkling wine. Petite patrons, note the 5-Foot Special: a 25-percent discount for those shorter than 60 inches.
TINY BAR
2 KINGSIDE DINER
1 Clams & Chorizo at Elijah P.'s 2 Thanksgiving All Year sandwich at Kingside Diner
3,5 The 1∕8 cocktail at Tiny Bar, the 250-squarefoot space 4 House-made waffle cone at Clementine's Creamery
1008 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.800.7218, tinybarstl.com
3 June 2015
1637 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.858.6100, clementinescreamery.com
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I N S I D E T H E S E RV E R ' S
STOMACH
Ever wonder what servers order for themselves? Here’s the insider intel on what to eat at St. Louis restaurants right now. – Compiled by Sara Graham
“I LOVE A SLAB OF RIBS. THEY ARE SMOKED SLOW, TENDER. THE SPICES ARE PERFECT. THEY ARE FALL-OFF-THEBONE GOOD.” – Dakota Diamond, PM BBQ
“OUR HOUSE-MADE LAMB SAUSAGE IS FOOD FIT FOR THE FOODIE. IT’S SERVED OVER HEARTY WHITE BEANS WITH TENDER SAUTEED SPINACH AND LAMB JUS. BREAD-AND-BUTTER PICKLES ADD A TOUCH OF SWEETNESS.” – Jamie Moody, Bixby’s
“Definitively the Jungle Love Nachos. It features house-smoked barbecued pork, seasoned ground beef, spicy cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, black olives and jalapenos and is served with sour cream and house-made salsa. When I first started working here, I had it three times a week. There’s a lot of love in those nachos.” – Jen Zoyles, Three Monkeys
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“The BrieLT sandwich with tomato marmalade and Nueske bacon from Wisconsin is so, so good.” – Sam Kichline, Cafe Osage
“Our Blue Ribbon Burger is an amazing combination of port-braised onions, bacon and Gorgonzola. It’s the best a burger can get.”
“OUR BRUSSELS SPROUTS SALAD IS MY CURRENT ADDICTION. TENDER ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, STRIPS OF BACON AND CRUMBS OF CREAMY GOAT CHEESE ARE TOSSED IN BURNT HONEY VINAIGRETTE. THE FLAVOR COMBINATION TURNS LIFELONG BRUSSELS SPROUTS HATERS INTO ENTHUSIASTS.” – Megan Ehrhart, HandleBar
– Kelly Filla, 5 Star Burgers
“THE WICKED GOOD SHRIMP. TIGER PRAWNS ARE SAUTEED IN SPICES AND SERVED WITH BREAD FOR DIPPING. PEOPLE COME SPECIFICALLY FOR THAT DISH.” – Skylar Finan, Sanctuaria
“ALL SHIFT LONG I DREAM ABOUT THE STEAK SANDWICH WITH FRIES. GOTTA HAVE THAT SPICY MAYO FOR THOSE FRIES, TOO. “ – Katie Seitz, West End Grill and Pub
“THE SHRIMP ALFREDO PASTA. THE FETTUCCINI NOODLES ARE HANDMADE IN-HOUSE. THE SHRIMP ALFREDO SAUCE IS FABULOUSLY CREAMY AND PERFECT FOR DIPPING WITH GARLIC BREAD.” – Melissa Schlecht, J. Fires’ Market Bistro
“The Goat. It’s a vegetarian sandwich with a goat cheese spread topped with greens, cucumbers and apricot chutney and served on toasted wheat. It’s simply the best.” – Ethan DeGhelder, The Mud House
“Chicken tikka masala is a dish of good-sized roasted pieces of chicken in a creamy, bright orange tomato sauce with lots of flavor. It’s one of my all-time favorite meals.” – Sarabjeet Jaswal, Rasoi
“The Drunken Noodle with beef. It’s filling, and the shrimp sauce has a perfect little spicy kick to it. I love the crunch of the fresh vegetables and the rich egg – it all just works.” – Andy Jaeger, Wang Gang Asian Eats June 2015
June 2015
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
The burger at Social Gastropub
new and notable
Social Gastropub BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
T
he first thing you notice about Social Gastropub is its vastness. The building, situated in the noman’s-land of Illinois Route 157 between strip malls and downtown Edwardsville, is spacious enough to accommodate large birthday parties (her name was Amy), family gatherings and the combined overflow from area restaurants like Cleveland-Heath, Peel and 1818 Chophouse. Once home to the defunct Shenanigans Bar and Grill, it’s the second outpost for the suburban Toledo, Ohio-based restaurant by Metro East native Mike Graber and his business partner, Pittsburgh Steelers quarterback Bruce Gradkowski.
n ew a n d n ota b le SOCIAL GA STROPUB p. 19 / p owe r l u n ch SPARE NO RIB p. 2 2 / n ig htl ife TAHA'A T WISTED TIKI p. 2 5 June 2015
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crimini mushrooms and on the side, braised kale and polenta that was noteworthy for its not too creamy, not too cakey consistency. The steak – a decent 12-ounce cut rubbed with garlic, rosemary, olive oil, salt and pepper – was seared medium-rare in garlic and brown butter and came with sauteed kale and smashed Yukon potatoes. Another example of good, uncomplicated cooking was the Campfire Ruby Red Trout special that actually could have come straight off a campfire, dusted in cornmeal with potatoes, onions and crisp sauteed green beans.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
Social Gastropub combines the feeling of a tavern with unfussy fare.
The menu changes every two months, so I don’t know what will be available when you visit, except count on the burger and build-your-own macaroni-and-cheese. A superb burger is de rigueur for any casual restaurant nowadays, gastropub or otherwise, and this half-pound beauty hits well above the mark with a luscious meatto-fat ratio made from a blend of fresh chuck, brisket, short-rib and dry-aged prime rib procured from the famous Pat LaFrieda Meat Co. in New Jersey. (Plans are in the works to source the burger meats locally.) It’s put on a brioche bun, topped with arugula, tomato, thick-cut pickles, onion and drizzled with Graber’s signature “graby-baby sauce,” a mayobrown mustard blend.
Social Gastropub fits the post-recession trend of combining the relaxed feel of a tavern with a decidedly gastronomic approach to food. It’s a recipe that’s as far from the likes of TGI Fridays and Applebee’s as potato skins are from roasted cauliflower, especially when the interstices of the cruciferous vegetable are studded with cracked pepper and it arrives whole on a whipped, puffy cloud of goat cheese, feta, lemon and olive oil. A big head of cauliflower for nearly $11 seems like an odd, expensive appetizer – impossible for two, even four, people to finish – but it represents the elevated pub grub on which self-described gastropubs have built reputations. Other small plates stood out as well, including Korean-influenced, DIY lettuce wraps with kimchi, bean sprouts, peanuts and braised pork spiced just deliciously hot enough to keep the table stuffing more butter lettuce leaves.
AT A GLANCE Social Gastropub
The burger comes with house-made chips, but I opted for a side of mac-n-
Where 2 157 Center, Edwardsville, 618.692.5156, socialgastropub.com
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cheese because, A) it’s proximately featured, and B) I don’t consider mac-ncheese a meal in and of itself, no matter how many add-ons are added on. An unadorned order runs $8, but depending on how many food groups you want in one bowl, it’s easy to rack up quite the mac-n-cheese bill. Add-ons range from 50 cents each for corn, garlic, scallions and a few sauces, to $11 for lobster and meatloaf. That said, were I to ever eat mac-n-cheese as a meal, it would be here: corkscrew-shaped cavatappi coated in a smooth, velvety sauce, as if each noodle were hand-painted. There were appealing plated meals, including pork tenderloin Marsala and a rib-eye steak. The pork tenderloin incorporated pancetta into a deeply flavored sauce of Marsala wine and
Don’t Miss Dishes Pork lettuce wrap, roasted cauliflower, pork tenderloin Marsala, burger
Vibe Big, open, decorated space with tables suitable for any size party.
The beer list is, of course, extensive and printed as a receipt and placed in a bar glass on your table, like a check to be paid. So don’t be alarmed when you review the draft beer list – the table before you did not skip out on its tab. The wine list is decent, with prices set at $8 or $14 per glass. But the cocktails are what caught my eye. From Jake’s Redemption – a boozy, citrusy rye-based drink served up – to the classic ginheavy Corpse Reviver No. 2, bartenders cranked out cocktails worthy enough to be called craft. You won’t come to Social Gastropub for the music, unless it’s performed live on the side patio. Inside, the loud soundtrack during two visits was set to ’80s and ’90s frat rock; thankfully, no one was crooning along to Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin’.” But if you want to watch a game or cooking show there are seven TVs, all set to ESPN or Food Network. That shouldn’t be a deterrent because what it lacks in intimacy Social Gastropub makes up for in soul in the form of ambitious, unfussy fare. That alone can fill infinity.
Entree Prices Small plates: $8 to $12; large plates: $10 to $25
When Sun. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight
June 2015
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reviews POWER LUNCH
Power Lunch
SPARE NO RIB BY BYRON KERMAN | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON
Spare No Rib’s idiosyncratic take on both barbecue and Mexican food in a single menu turned out fantastic. The new satellite location serves lunch in Bar Italia’s Luna Lounge in the Central West End, and just like the original Benton Park location, it is every bit as unexpected and delicious.
3 summer. It’s comfort food with an appealing array of textures joined by a pleasantly mouth-puckering basil-lemon SPARE NO RIB – vinaigrette. A side CENTRAL WEST END dish of baked 13 Maryland Plaza, Northern beans St. Louis, 314.361.7010, manages to be both sparenorib.com tasty and unusual. The beans are joined in a thick, tomatoey sauce with bits of smoked pork belly, bacon and spices. Give it one point for not being overly sweet, and another for the spicy aftertaste.
1 LAID-BACK LUNCH Luna Lounge is a shotgun-shaped bar/ nightclub in the private event space at Bar Italia, where Spare No Rib owner Lassaad Jeliti previously worked. The lunch crowd in the Central West End has been slow to absorb the space’s new purpose, but a sparse crowd simply means a mellow lunch, with more attention from servers who aren’t often overwhelmed by too many tables. ROASTED & RIGHTEOUS An appetizer of warm tortilla chips and three house salsas – smoked-vegetable, three-pepper and tomato-chipotle – piques the palate. Of the trio, I could not stop eating the smoked-vegetable salsa. Roasted tomatoes, onions and peppers are mashed together to create a very smoky dip. CUE THE BARBECUE The eponymous ribs [1] are encased in a heavy layer of rub undiminished by the cooking process. They arrive coated in a thick reddish carpet of cumin, coriander, paprika and other spices inspired by Jeliti’s Tunisian heritage. The spice rub dominates all other flavors, including those imbued by the smoke. On one visit, the ribs were overcooked, but on the next they had the tender pink color that connotes a winning smoke. Like the ribs, the barbecue sauces are sui generis. The sweet variant has fruity notes while the spicy sauce has a rising heat that titillates but doesn’t blast the taste buds. The third option is a standard Carolina mustard sauce tangy with vinegar
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THE TAKEAWAY A very personal take on barbecued ribs and Mexican food manages a pleasant surprise at just about every turn. Spare No Rib has replicated the menu of the mother ship on Gravois Avenue, and now this thoughtfully executed menu can be enjoyed for lunch in the Central West End.
2 that’s good stuff, but doesn’t necessarily jibe with the overwhelming flavor of the rub. All told, the dry spice, moist ribs and unfamiliar sauces make for deliciously different barbecue. TAKE THE TACOS If you’re not into ribs, fret not: The tacos pop with fresh flavor. These little beauties, presented in doubled, soft corn tortillas, are a thoughtful melding of the traditional and the new. The pork tenderloin and fennel taco [2] is a standout, as is the beer-battered tilapia taco [2] dressed with bright green avocado-tomatillo salsa. A braised beef cheek taco eats like a spicy beef stew.
ENTER THE OTHER ENTREES Sopes [3] are baked corn-flour cups with the dense chew of English muffins, topped with refried beans, cheese and salsa, plus a choice of chicken, veggies or chorizo-andegg. That last option eats like a Mexican McMuffin. When the over-easy eggs are popped and yolk runs forth, it’s a heavenly mélange of warm, moist, chewy, spicy, beefy, salty and creamy; you probably couldn’t fight a hangover more deliciously. SUMMER SALAD AND B-SIDES The Grapes & Pearls salad of fingerling potatoes, avocado, grape tomatoes and nuggets of fresh mozzarella was made for June 2015
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nightlife
reviews
Taha’a Twisted Tiki
NIGHTLIFE
BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
rum. At their worst – Dead Man’s Chest – these are heavy on sugar and random syrups. The quirky plastic menus even have TAHA’A TWISTED TIKI little skull-and4199 Manchester Ave., crossbones ratings St. Louis, 314.202.8300, next to each drink Facebook: Taha’a Twisted to signify their Tiki potency. Scoring high on that meter is The Zombie, a tangy and tasteful battleground of flavors where Puerto Rican and Jamaican rums duke it out with high-proof Bacardi 151 rum and absinthe, along with fruit juices, bitters and cinnamon syrup for good measure. A winner among vintage warm-weather drinks is the Hemingway Daiquiri. A white rum-based cocktail swimming with maraschino liqueur, lime and grapefruit, it’s strong enough to spark fantasies of being on a Key West patio fanning yourself and shooing stray cats. Options on a nominal beer list range from Red Stripe to easy-sipping Urban Chestnut Apotheosis Saison, fresh from the UCBC brewery down the street.
I
was five sips into a Hemingway Daiquiri on the back patio at Taha’a Twisted Tiki when a young woman from a bachelorette party on the rooftop deck stumbled down the stairs and announced that she needed a random guy to pose for a photo with the bride-tobe in a pantomime of his favorite carnal position. If I was a drink or two deeper, and if my wife wasn’t sitting right next to me, my hand might’ve gone up. Instead it went back to my glass. The best place for it, I decided. This is an all-too-familiar scene at Taha’a Twisted Tiki, a laid-back, booze-fueled joint with a highly enjoyable Polynesian island vibe in the epicenter of the thriving Grove neighborhood. On a hot Friday night, the double-decker party patio at Taha’a is the place to be with a tall, quirky, tiki guy mug in hand. Outfitted with a fire pit and seating area adjacent to an outside bar – which is free of blaring flat-screen TVs unlike the inside bar
June 2015
– the back patio also has a great little secluded upstairs deck with about a half-dozen tables for additional seating and open-air mingling. Light, alternative rock and random pop hits are interspersed with some Beach Boys. Inside, the main bar is a dimly lit, leather-chaired throwback to a 1960s Polynesian drinking den. The tiki-campy decor flirts with being over-the-top, but ends up being kitschy-cool. Translation: It’s so bad it’s good. There’s a crew of boozy neighborhood regulars who cling to the back bar, bending the ears of the bartenders. Then there is the younger crowd – rowdy groups of friends huddled over straws floating in massive shared drinks, date-night couples and random singles in their 20s, 30s and 40s. Taha’a has a substantial, multi-page list of classic tiki cocktails, oversized shared-bowl drinks and tiki shots. At their best – The Zombie – these are heavy on
To go with your adult beverage, Taha’a offers the kind of poolside bar food that’s heavy on the deep-fried action. One that exceeded expectations was a no-frills plate of plump, butterflied coconut shrimp served with sweet and sour dipping sauce. The promise of a serving of these wonderfully crisp crustaceans paired with a cold lager would be enough to tempt me back to Taha’a in about two-pointfive seconds. The Taha’a Rangoon – steaming hot fried dumplings with sweet chile dipping sauce – was also perfectly satisfying. The service is friendly and down-toearth, though a little scattered. Over a few hours, we put orders in through three servers. The staff can be a great help when it comes to navigating the plethora of rum drinks, which can look pretty much the same. Though knowledgeable about the signature drinks, the staff is less helpful if you want to go off script with cocktails. At Taha’a, enjoying stiff rum drinks in a great back patio setting equals good times at this neighborhood bar. Lively but not too nuts, spacious but still a bit cozy, Taha’a is an ideal gathering spot for groups, as well as date-night couples aiming for outside the norm and off the wall.
ORDER IT: Taha'a Twisted Tiki
Citrusy, sweet and laden with three kinds of rum and absinthe to boot, The Zombie is truly a monster.
The wonderfully crisp deep-fried coconut shrimp are served with sweet and sour dipping sauce.
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dine
& drink
See Cory King's picks for beer with terroir
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Pinotage, South Africa’s signature grape variety, is a crossbreed of pinot noir and cinsault. This wild child shows even more attitude in a coffee-style pinotage. Winemaker Bertus Fourie GLENN BARDGETT invented the style 15 years Member of the Missouri Wine ago when he discovered that and Grape Board and wine his combination of certain director at Annie Gunn’s yeasts, toasted oak barrels and temperature lent the wine distinctive coffee and dark chocolate notes. The 2013 Barista Pinotage holds the aroma of roasted malt typically found in a stout and the flavors of smoky whiskey. Pair this $16 red with smoked meat and seafood. June 2015
A new vodka on the market caught our attention: St. George Green Chile vodka. The folks at St. George offer an array of quality spirits, and this vodka is no exception. As aromatic as it is flavorful, it shows loads of hot and sweet TED AND JAMIE peppers, lime and cilantro on KILGORE the nose and the palate. This USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart vibrant, fresh and spicy spirit and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House tastes delicious on the rocks, and it makes simple cocktails like a gimlet taste surprisingly complex. Shake 2 ounces vodka, 1 ounce lime juice and ¾ ounce simple syrup with ice and strain into an Old-Fashioned glass filled with fresh ice.
I recently returned from Belgium, and one of the best things about traveling to the holy land of beer is the abundance of lambics and Gueuzes. These are two of my favorite beer CORY KING styles because they exhibit Certified Cicerone, head terroir like no others. Their brewer at Perennial Artisan uniqueness comes from openAles and founder of Side air inoculation by native yeast Project Brewing and bacteria for spontaneous wort fermentation, resulting in a beer that tastes earthy, bright, funky and tart. For a one-of-a-kind sip of Belgium’s Senne Valley, try Lindemans Old Gueuze Cuvée René, Gueuze Tilquin à l’Ancienne and Hanssens Artisanaal Oude Gueuze. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
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WINE
B EofS T BANDOL BY BEN WOOD
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
THE SUN IS STRONG, THE NIGHTS ARE COOL AND THE WINE IS EVERYTHING IN BANDOL, a tiny fishing village on the coast of southern France. Late-ripening mourvèdre grapes grow best in this pocket of Provence on restangues or retaining walls, steepterraced, south-facing amphitheaters with dry, pebbly soil, located oh-soclose to the Mediterranean Sea. Bandol is the only appellation that requires at least 50 percent dark, tannin-rich mourvèdre in reds and rosés; the rest of the blend usually includes grenache, cinsault and carignan. These wines can be as spicy as a syrah or as rich as a zinfandel. White Bandol wines – bright, crisp and with notes of white flower and orchard fruits – are produced in very limited quantities (Labels like Domaine Tempier or Pradeaux Blancs can be pricey but are well worth the hunt.). This is the perfect time of year to get acquainted with vins de Bandol. They pair perfectly with grilled foods, and sipping Bandol rosé alfresco in the summer is a downright dreamy experience. These two picks represent an amazing value while staying true to the richness and beauty of this exclusive appellation.
June 2015
2014 Domaine du Gros Noré Rosé
2008 La Bastide Blanche
Rosés should be crisp, mineral and dry with complex flavors. Bandol rosés are at the top of the rosé hierarchy. Strawberry, watermelon, citrus and white pepper flavors leap out of this glass. Pair it with a niçoise salad.
Full of raspberries, cinnamon, pepper and flowers, this rich, structured and powerful wine pairs nicely with grilled meat, and its minerality balances with lighter fare such as a cheese and charcuterie platter.
$28. The Wine and Cheese Place, 457 N. New Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.989.0020, wineandcheeseplace.com
$26. The Wine and Cheese Place, 14748 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.527.1144, wineandcheeseplace.com
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VEGETIZE IT
Veggie burger BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
W
hen it comes to cooking in the Hynes house, Carnivore Bob and I have a long-standing division of labor: I manage 20 meals per week, and he grills burgers on Sundays. If that seems inequitable, I assure you, his careful curation of seasonings, artisanal patty shaping and heat management skills reflect a degree of perfectionism that shames my Taco Tuesdays.
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Hungry for more vegetarian dishes? Go to samg.bz/ saucemeatless every Monday to check out our Meatless Monday column, where you’ll find recipes to prepare tasty vegetarian fare at home. June 2015
What does feel unfair, though, is when I stack my flat, gray, defrosted veggie burgers against his homage to the hamburger. Even my plant-leaning daughter rolls her eyes at my cardboard Frisbees. To her, beef burgers taste like home and veggie burgers taste like homework. Wanting to make a veggie burger whose taste and texture could compete with meat, I canvassed our local vegetable-loving restaurants for inspiration. I found a bounty of flavors, like the curry, cumin and garlic spice blend in Seedz Cafe’s Sprouted Chickpea Veggie Burger and the tangy tahini-chipotle slaw on the Frida Burger at Frida’s. But when I tasted the magic of chipotle sauce on the Sweet Potato Black Bean Burger at Lulu’s Local Eatery on South Grand Boulevard, I sat up, took notice and ordered a second for, um, a friend. The one-two punch of smoky and sweet was a winner, but the sweet potato in my own test burgers was mushy, not meaty. Adding brown rice, an ingredient in the Seedz and Lulu’s burgers, helped some. The real texture turning point came mid-chew at SweetArt in South City. Owner Reine Bayoc’s thick, chowable SweetBurger is packed with lentils, carrots and textured vegetable protein. TVP is a neutral-tasting, high-protein meat substitute, usually made from soy flour. It’s sold in a dehydrated state that resembles spongy pebbles. Rehydrating TVP and mixing it into a sweet potatoblack bean-lentil concoction gave my burger a texture more like ground meat and less like second best.
June 2015
Now, TVP isn’t for everyone. It’s heavily processed and made in a factory, which is antithetical to a purist’s plant-based diet. And while TVP improves the “tooth feel” of my burger, it doesn’t prevent the patties from falling apart on a hot grill. Instead, I suggest pan-frying your burgers in peanut oil – another tip I learned from my gastro trip to Lulu’s. The following recipe works with or without TVP because of the bright and unexpected flavor combinations. Feel free to personalize the seasonings: You may prefer ginger’s gentle zing to mouth-clobbering hot peppers. Or skip the smoky paprika and try sage instead. In all instances, you’ll make a vibrant vegetarian dish worthy of the burger name.
SWEET AND SMOKY VEGAN BURGERS 6 TO 8 BURGERS WITH TVP, 4 TO 6 BURGERS WITHOUT TVP 1¼ cup dry textured vegetable protein* (optional) 1 cup boiling water (optional) 1 15-oz. can black beans, drained, rinsed and patted dry ½ cup cooked lentils ½ cup cooked brown rice ½ cup diced white onion ½ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp. minced garlic 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. ground chipotle chile pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt
1 cup mashed baked sweet potato (skin removed) 6 Tbsp. peanut oil, divided Vegan hamburger buns** Lettuce leaves, avocado slices and onion slices, for serving • If using TVP, combine the TVP and the boiling water in a medium bowl. Stir with a fork and let rest 10 minutes, until the water is fully absorbed. Spread the rehydrated TVP onto paper towels and squeeze to remove any excess water. Pat the TVP dry and set aside. • To the bowl of a food processor, add the black beans, lentils, rice, onion, panko, garlic, paprika, cumin, chipotle chile pepper and salt. Pulse 5 to 7 times, until the mixture is coarse but not puréed. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the sweet potato and rehydrated TVP (if using), and stir until well combined. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes. • Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set it aside. • Use wet hands to shape the mixture into patties. Place them on the prepared baking sheet and refrigerate 30 minutes. • Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil and heat the oil 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium and add half the burgers to the pan, refrigerating the remaining patties. Cook the burgers until they are brown and crispy, about 5 minutes, then flip and cook another 5 minutes. • Remove the burgers from the pan and keep warm. Using a paper
towel, carefully wipe the used oil out of the pan, add the remaining 3 tablespoons peanut oil and cook the remaining patties. (The second batch may brown faster.) Serve the burgers warm, on buns with the lettuce, sliced avocado and onions. * Textured vegetable protein is available in the bulk foods aisle at all Dierbergs locations, dierbergs. com. ** Rudi’s Organic Bakery hamburger buns are available in white, wheat and 100-percent whole wheat at Whole Foods Market, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, 314.968.7744, wholefoodsmarket. com.
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MAKE THIS GRILLED HALLOUMI ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES
We love halloumi for its tangy, salty flavor, but the magic happens when this semi-firm Greek cheese meets a bit of heat. Whether grilled or pan-seared, halloumi holds its own against high temps, the crust turning golden brown and the interior becoming soft and chewy. Get to know one of the most grill-worthy cheeses. Cut 8 ounces halloumi cheese into ½-inch cubes. Pat dry with a paper towel. Place 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cheese and sear until browned on both sides and soft on the inside, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool. – Dee Ryan
MAKE THIS
PHOTO BY SHERRIE CASTELLANO
Halloumi takes well to the grill, too. Prepare a charcoal grill for medium-hot, direct heat or heat a gas grill to mediumhigh. Oil the grate, cut the cheese into ½-inch slabs instead of cubes, and grill until the bottom has a crispy brown crust with grill marks. Flip and repeat on the other side.
For a tasty appetizer, toss grilled halloumi with diced red onion and watermelon and garnish with fresh mint.
June 2015
If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five. Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.
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a new class of
CLASSIC COCKTAILS bramble
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9
BY TED KILGORE | PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS History’s classic cocktails are still being discovered and enjoyed today, but a new generation of first-rate quaffables is making waves on a national scale. The rules are the same: A classic cocktail, new or old, requires a simple formula, accessible ingredients, easy construction and a great name. Here are four new classics to try at your favorite bar – or at home – with a few extra tweaks from yours truly. 36
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old cuban
This refreshing mojito-daiquiri hybrid has been a favorite among cocktail fans for more than 10 years. The addition of Champagne, aged rum and Angostura bitters offers elegance and depth.
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9
June 2015
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kentucky buck Spicy, fruity and bold, this cross between a Dark and Stormy and a whiskey smash is perfect for lounging on the patio.
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9
BOTTLE SERVICE
GIN: CITADELLE
These picks make first-rate drinks
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BLACKBERRY LIQUEUR: ECHTE KROATZBEERE
RUM: PLANTATION BARBADOS 5-YEAR GRAND RESERVE
GINGER BEER: FEVER TREE BOURBON: FOUR ROSES SINGLE BARREL
SCOTCH WHISKY: MONKEY SHOULDER
June 2015
Bramble. It starts crisp and dry, and it ends fruity and floral.
penicillin The Penicillin earns its name from the slightly medicinal flavor imparted by a splash of Islay scotch. The rest is all citrus, smoke, spice and floral notes.
1½ oz. gin (I recommend Citadelle.) ¾ oz. lemon juice ½ oz. simple syrup* ¾ oz. blackberry liqueur (I recommend Echte Kroatzbeere.) Lemon wheel, for garnish Blackberry, for garnish • Add the gin, lemon juice and syrup to an Old-Fashioned glass filled with crushed ice. Stir 10 to 15 seconds. • Add more crushed ice. Drizzle the blackberry liqueur over the top. Garnish with the lemon wheel and blackberry.
PENIC ILLIN 1 SERVING Adapted from a recipe by Sam Ross, Milk & Honey (now Attaboy), New York City 3 slices candied ginger, divided 2 oz. blended Scotch whisky (I recommend Monkey Shoulder.) ¾ oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. honey-ginger syrup (recipe follows) ¼ oz. Laphroaig Single Malt Scotch whisky
OLD C U BAN 1 SERVING Adapted from a recipe by Audrey Saunders, Pegu Club, New York City 1 vanilla bean Sugar, for sprinkling 1½ oz. aged rum (I recommend Plantation Barbados 5-year Grand Reserve.) 1 oz. simple syrup* ¾ oz. lime juice 2 dashes Angostura bitters 6 mint leaves Champagne or dry sparkling wine, to top Mint sprig, for garnish • Slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, removing and discarding the seeds. Sprinkle the sugar over each half of the bean, pressing lightly to ensure adhesion. Set aside. • Add the rum, syrup, lime juice, bitters and mint to a cocktail shaker filled June 2015
with ice. Shake 17 seconds. • Double strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a martini glass. • Top with the Champagne or sparkling wine. Garnish with the mint sprig and sugar-coated vanilla bean. * To make simple syrup, combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Let cool before using.
KE N T U C K Y B UC K 1 SERVING Adapted from a recipe by Erick Castro, Rickhouse, San Francisco 1 medium strawberry 2 oz. bourbon (I recommend Four Roses Single Barrel.) ¾ oz. lemon juice ½ oz. simple syrup*
2 dashes Angostura bitters Ginger beer, to top (I recommend FeverTree.) Lemon wheel, for garnish • In a cocktail shaker, muddle the strawberry. • Add the bourbon, lemon juice, syrup, bitters and ice to the shaker. Shake 17 seconds. • Double strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice. • Top with the ginger beer and garnish with the lemon wheel.
B RA MB L E 1 SERVING Adapted from a recipe by Dick Bradsell, Fred’s Club, London Take a classic gin sour, change the presentation, add fruit and you have a
• Muddle 2 candied ginger slices in a cocktail shaker. • Add the blended Scotch whisky, lemon juice, honey-ginger syrup and ice to the shaker. Shake 17 seconds. • Double strain through a fine-mesh strainer into an Old-Fashioned glass filled with fresh ice. • Float the Laphroaig on top by gently pouring it over the back of a spoon into the glass. Garnish with the remaining candied ginger slice.
H ONEY-GINGER SYRUP ABOUT 1 CUP ½ cup honey ½ cup water 2 oz. fresh ginger, chopped and peeled • In a saucepan over medium heat, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. • Pour through a fine-mesh strainer and cool before use. Syrup will keep, refrigerated, up to 2 weeks. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
summer
weat s o n
ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
THE MUST-HAVE BURGERS, BRATS AND BEERS FOR THE PERFECT BACKYARD COOKOUT
BY LIGAYA FIGUERAS, GEORGIA KAYE, CATHERINE KLENE, MEERA NAGARAJAN AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ
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Jamaican Jerk Burger PERFECT PAT T Y + JERK SEASONING + MANGO SAL SA
RECIPES START ON P. 46
Jerk this burger into high gear and season the meat, too. Re-create Sub Zero Vodka Bar’s Jamaican Jerk Burger by mixing together 2 pounds ground chuck, 2 cups chopped white onion, 6 tablespoons jerk seasoning, 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon ground ginger until blended. Form patties and grill, then top with Jamaican Jerk Mango Salsa (recipe on p. 46).
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Sub Zero Vodka Bar subzerovodkabar.com
PERFECT PATTY
Cheeses
A great burger starts with great meat. For a classic beef burger, Quincy Street Bistro chef de cuisine Chris Tirone advised keeping it simple. Start with 80-20 ground chuck, which is 80 percent lean chuck roast and 20 percent fat. Shape the meat into an 8-ounce, ½-inch-thick patty. Season both sides with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Grill over medium-high, direct heat 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare, 5 to 6 minutes per side for medium. Slide it onto a bun, top to your heart’s content and bite into burger nirvana. – K.S.
The cheese should stand alone atop your perfect patty. Here, three experts weigh in on a burger’s crowning glory. – K.S.
June 2015
“I like a cheese with some funkiness to it, like a Swiss Lorraine or a sharp cheddar.” – Chris Tirone, chef de cuisine, Quincy Street Bistro
“Pimento cheese is my favorite cheese at the moment. It’s melty without being messy.” – Mathis Stitt, chef-owner, Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine
“Cheddar or Muenster stand out on top of the burger rather than covering it.” – Matt Galati, executive chef, The Dam
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WINNING BRATS Area butchers have the perfect house-made bratwurst for every palate, from the pork purist to the adventurous diner who wants a taste of the islands or NOLA on a bun. – G.K.
1 Kenrick’s Meats & Catering Stick to the tried-and-true beer-and-brat combo and toss the Schlafly pork bratwurst made with the brewery’s Hefeweizen in your basket. 4324 Weber Road, Affton, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com
2 Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions Go crazy for the Berzerker at Bolyard’s, a beef sausage stuffed with bacon, cheddar and horseradish. 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com
3 Mateker’s Meat and Catering Sugar and spice and everything nice; was the nursery rhyme actually referencing Mateker’s apple-cinnamon pork bratwurst? We think so. 11642 Concord Village Ave., Sappington, 314.842.4100, matekers.com
4 Valenti’s Market & Catering The jalepeno-cheddar pork bratwurst is a top-seller here, so follow your fellow brat buyers’ example. 6750 Mexico Road, St. Peters, 636.970.2992, valentismarket.com
5 TODD Geisert Farms You don’t need to book a Caribbean cruise to experience Jamaican jerk pork bratwursts. Pick up Todd Geisert’s creations at his Washington farm or in the city at Local Harvest Grocery. Todd Geisert Farms, 4851 Old Highway 100, Washington, 314.791.6942, geisertfarms.com; Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com 42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
6 Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering Keep it classic with the best-selling original pork bratwurst, and you’ll be keeping it local, too. Pork is sourced from Illinois’ Wenneman Meat Market. 11037 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.966.8606, Facebook: Hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering
7 Frandeka Meat Market Keep the Mardi Gras spirit alive yearround with the Soulard Hurricane pork bratwurst. Made with mild pork seasoning and Hurricane drink mix, it’s everything you love about NOLA’s fruity beverage, minus the alcohol. Soulard Farmers Market, 1601 S. Seventh St., St. Louis, 314.241.7743, Facebook: Frandeka Meat Market
8 John’s Butcher Shoppee Play it safe with a cheddar-bacon bratwurst, or take a walk on the wild side; customers’ wacky flavor suggestions are welcome here. All styles can be made using ground pork, beef, chicken or turkey. 503 N. Mill St., Festus, 636.931.7776, johnsbutchershoppee.com
WINE WITH BURGERS AND BRATS? YOU BET – ESPECIALLY WHEN THAT PICK IS 2013 LES PERRINES SAINT-JOSEPH. THIS SYRAH FROM FRANCE’S NORTHERN RHONE VALLEY IS LIVELY WITH BLACK CHERRY, BLACKBERRY AND BLACK CURRANT NOTES, BUT THE PEPPERY BITE MAKES IT THE PERFECT PAIR FOR MEATY, GRILLED FARE. – L.F. $22. The Wine
Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road (until June 6, reopening June 9 at 7817 Forsyth Blvd.), Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
SUMMERTIME GRILLING CALLS FOR UPBEAT TUNES. TAKE THE iHOME OUTSIDE AND HEAT THINGS UP WITH THESE 12 SUMMERTIME JAMS. – M.N.
September Earth, Wind & Fire Touch the Sky Kanye West featuring Lupe Fiasco Shove It Santogold P.Y.T. (Pretty Young Thing) Michael Jackson So Fresh, So Clean OutKast featuring Sleepy Brown Give It Away Red Hot Chili Peppers Bad Girls M.I.A. Racks YC featuring Future Best of My Love The Emotions Izzo (H.O.V.A.) Jay-Z (Hot S**t) Country Grammar Nelly Lovely Day Bill Withers
Veritas Burger P E R F EC T PAT T Y + P I M E N TO CHEESE + QUICK PICKLES + P I C K L E D O N I O N S + O N I O N JA M
RECIPES START ON P. 46
Veritas veritasgateway.com
BUY THIS The Burger Bun: Fazio’s Brioche Bun Well-suited for toasting, brioche stands up to the heat, the meat and the fixin’s. Freddie’s Market, 9052 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.968.1914, freddiesmarket.com The Bratwurst Bun: Companion’s Original Bavarian Pretzel A brat’s perfect match is a soft, chewy pretzel. Slice the stick lengthwise (but not all the way through) and nestle your brat inside. Companion, 8143 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.721.5454; 9781 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.218.2280, companionstl.com The Baked Beans: Bogart’s Pit Baked Beans Sweet up front and spicy on the finish, these meaty beans smoke overnight underneath beef brisket, catching the delicious dripping juices. Bogart’s Smokehouse, 1627 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.621.3107, bogartssmokehouse.com The Mustard: Truffles’ Butchery House Mustard Holding its own against rich burger juices, this whole-grain mustard offers robust flavor and texture. Truffles’ Butchery, 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com The Ketchup: Heinz “All others are imbalanced on the spices and taste like a spice cake, not ketchup,” said Chris Tirone, chef de cuisine at Quincy Street Bistro. Available at most major grocery stores June 2015
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Grilling Party Playlist
BBQ'd Bacon Cheddar
THE GRILL MASTER’S TOOLBOX
PERFECT PAT T Y + SMOKED CHEDDAR + BOURBON BARBECUE SAUCE + BACON-RED ONION JAM
A backyard barbecue is only as good as the grill it’s cooked on. Here, the six essential tools you need to dominate outdoor cooking. – C.K.
RECIPES START ON P. 46
Weber Performer Deluxe 22-Inch Grill Yes, the Big Green Egg is a griller’s dream, but you don’t need that ceramic work of art to make a masterful burger. This dependable classic Weber kettle features a propane-fired ignition that lights charcoal with the push of a button (the only acceptable time to use gas). $400. Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.966.0800, terrastl.com Timber Charcoal This southern Missouri company creates lump hardwood charcoal, primarily from Ozark oak and hickory, for long-lasting, consistent heat that no briquette can match. 20-pound bag: $20. St. Louis BBQ Store, 9703 Gravois Road, St. Louis, 314.200.5350, stlbbqstore.com Big Green Egg Electric Charcoal Lighter Drop the lighter fluid and back away slowly. Stack your coals around this electric coil, plug it in and get cooking in just a few minutes without the nasty chemical residue. $40. Hearthside Grill & Fireplace, 418 S. Belt East, Belleville, 618.257.0700, hearthsidegrill.com Charcoal Chimney There’s nothing wrong with old school. Stuff some newspaper in the bottom of a charcoal chimney, place it on the grill, fill it with coals, strike a match, and you’ve got wicked hot embers in no time. $10. Edele & Mertz Hardware, 1822 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.421.2131, Facebook: Edele & Mertz Hardware
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Grill Spatula A wide stainless-steel spatula means you won’t drop your precious patty, and an insulated 18inch wooden handle means you won’t singe your arm hair, either. $13. Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com
Quincy Street Bistro quincystreetbistro.com June 2015
Outset Rosewood Grill Tongs These 21-inch, extra-long tongs allow you to deftly turn brats without puncturing the skin and losing those delicious juices. $17. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
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Crack Open a Cold One 1
If there’s one thing you need when the grill is red hot, it’s a frosty beer to cool you down. We asked Craft Beer Cellar’s Brandon Nickelson to dish on the easy-drinking brews that best complement the layered, smoky flavors of grilled meat. – K.S. 1. Deschutes Brewery Fresh Squeezed IPA Citra and Mosaic hops take center stage in this fun IPA that bursts with bright citrus notes.
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2. Abita Amber Move over, Mardi Gras. Abita’s Munichstyle lager brings the party to the backyard. Its smooth, malty flavor and laid-back personality pair well with just about anything you throw on the grill, including crawfish.
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3. Founders Brewing Rubeaus Michigan-based Founders leans heavily on malt and fresh raspberries for a light-bodied sipper that balances sweet and tart flavors.
5. Boulevard Brewing Ginger-Lemon Radler An unfiltered wheat beer is mixed with lemon and ginger for a fruity, spicy thirst quencher.
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6. Evil Twin Brewing Nomader Weisse Settle down with this sour Berliner Weisse-style beer. Lemon zest and wheat on the nose, a hazy straw color in the glass … Grandma’s aluminum folding lawn chair never felt so comfy. 7. Crooked Stave Surette This farmhouse ale is a throwback to early 20th-century ales that promises a snappy tartness perfect for patio sipping.
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Craft Beer Cellar 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, craftbeercellar. com/clayton
June 2015
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
4. Perennial Artisan Ales Hopfentea Hometown powerhouse Perennial brews this Berliner Weisse-style beer with a tropical tea blend from Chicago’s The Hopleaf. The resulting brew has a tropical fruit aroma, a tart taste and a dry finish.
CORN ON THE CONE PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
It’s not a cookout without a big bite of buttery corn on the cob. Clementine’s Creamery captures that experience in its Summer Sweet Corn ice cream. Fresh corn is stripped from the cob, cooked and creamed using organic dairy, then blended into Clementine’s vanilla ice cream base. The high butterfat content and milky sweet corn create a luxurious treat that turns a classic grilling side dish into the dessert of summer. – C.K. Clementine’s Creamery, 1637 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.858.6100, clementinescreamery.com
June 2015
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recipes
• In a large saucepan over medium heat, simmer all the ingredients 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
Bacon-Red Onion Jam
THE TOPPINGS
Courtesy of Quincy Street Bistro’s Chris Tirone
Jamaican Jerk Mango Salsa Courtesy of Sub Zero Vodka Bar’s Lucas Gamlin
1 QUART
4 SERVINGS 1 red onion, diced small 1 red bell pepper, diced small 2 habanero peppers, seeded and diced 3 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only 1 tsp. canola oil 3 Tbsp. dark rum 3 fresh mangoes, peeled, pit removed and cut into 1-inch cubes Juice of 1 lime 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper • In a large saute pan over high heat, saute the red onion, bell pepper, habanero peppers, ginger and thyme in the oil, about 1 minute. • Reduce the heat to medium-high and deglaze the pan with the rum, scraping the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. • In a large bowl, mix the cooled pepper mixture with the mango, lime juice, salt and pepper.
Bourbon Barbecue Sauce
• In a large saute pan over mediumlow heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally until crisp, about 15 minutes. • Add the onion to the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook until caramelized, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes. • Add the wine, sugar and balsamic vinegar. Stir to combine, then reduce the mixture until thick and syrupy, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Quick Pickles Courtesy of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine’s Mathis Stitt 1 CUP 1 large cucumber, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt • Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Let rest 20 minutes until the cucumber releases its juices. • Remove the cucumber slices with a slotted spoon; discard the remaining liquid.
Courtesy of Quincy Street Bistro’s Chris Tirone 1 QUART 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup ketchup 1 cup red wine vinegar ¹∕³ cup water 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 Tbsp. mustard powder 2 tsp. paprika 2 tsp. bourbon 1¹∕³ tsp. kosher salt 1¹∕³ tsp. freshly ground black pepper Dash hot sauce
Burger combos to try
1¹∕³ cup diced bacon 1¹∕³ cup julienned red onion 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. dry red wine 4 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pickled Onions Courtesy of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine’s Mathis Stitt 1 QUART 2 cups white wine vinegar 1 cup sugar 1 oz. juniper berries 3 sprigs thyme 4 large red onions, thinly sliced
• In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, sugar, juniper berries and thyme to a boil over high heat to make a brine. • Place the onions in a bowl and pour the hot brine over it. Cover with plastic wrap and let cool to room temperature. Transfer the onions and brine to an airtight container and refrigerate until chilled.
Onion Jam Courtesy of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine’s Mathis Stitt 1 PINT 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 4 to 5 white onions, thinly sliced 2 tsp. kosher salt ²∕³ cup brown sugar ¹∕³ cup apple cider vinegar • In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and salt and caramelize until light brown, 45 to 60 minutes. • Add the brown sugar and vinegar and stir until incorporated. Let cool.
Oven-dried Tomatoes Courtesy of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine’s Mathis Stitt 1 QUART 4 lbs. Roma tomatoes, quartered 6 cloves garlic, sliced 6 sprigs fresh thyme ¼ cup olive oil Kosher salt to taste • In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients until the tomatoes are evenly coated. Cover and let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes or refrigerate overnight. • Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Place a baking rack on top of a baking sheet, making sure there is space between them. • Place the tomato wedges skin-side up in a single layer on the baking rack. Bake 2½ to 4 hours, rotating the baking sheet halfway through, until the tomatoes are soft and the skin is easily removed. • Use your fingers to gently remove the skins and discard. Let the tomatoes cool.
Pimento Cheese Courtesy of Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine’s Mathis Stitt 3 CUPS ½ lb. sharp white cheddar cheese, grated ½ lb. medium yellow cheddar cheese, grated 8 oz. cream cheese 1 cup chopped roasted red pepper 1 to 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise • In a large bowl, mix the white and yellow cheddar cheeses and the cream cheese until combined. Add the roasted red pepper and the mayonnaise and stir to create a chunky spread.
SIDE DISHES
French Potato Salad Courtesy of Nadoz Cafe & Catering’s Kathy Becker
10 SERVINGS
2½ lbs. red potatoes, diced 2½ Tbsp. kosher salt, divided ½ red pepper, diced small 1 cup celery, chopped 4 cups mayonnaise ½ cup whole-grain mustard ½ cup apple cider vinegar ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper • Fill a large pot with cold water. Add the potatoes and 2 tablespoons salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and boil until tender, about 15 minutes. • Prepare an ice bath, then drain the potatoes and shock them in the ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside. • In a large mixing bowl, mix together the remaining ingredients to make a dressing. • Add the potatoes to the dressing, stirring to coat. Serve immediately or refrigerate up to 24 hours.
Succotash Courtesy of Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.’s Kevin Nashan 6 SERVINGS 6 ears corn, shucked ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 red bell peppers, diced small
Jamaican Jerk Burger
Veritas Burger
BBQ'd Bacon Cheddar
PERFECT PATTY + JERK SEASONING + MANGO SALSA
PERFECT PATTY + PIMENTO CHEESE + QUICK PICKLES + PICKLED ONIONS + ONION JAM
PERFECT PATTY + SMOKED CHEDDAR + BOURBON BARBECUE SAUCE + BACON-RED ONION JAM
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2 green bell peppers, diced small 2 yellow bell peppers, diced small 1 red onion, diced small 2 cups fresh lima, fava or soy beans 2 Tbsp. chopped garlic ½ tsp. cumin ½ tsp. coriander ¹∕³ tsp. ground caraway Pinch ground mace Pinch ground fenugreek 1 tsp. chiffonade fresh mint 1½ Tbsp. tomato paste ½ chipotle pepper in adobo sauce ¹∕³ cup rice wine vinegar ¹∕³ cup water • Slice the corn from the cob; discard the cobs. • In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, saute the corn in 1 tablespoon olive oil until light brown, about 3 minutes. Spread on a sheet pan and refrigerate until cool. • In the same pan, saute the bell peppers over medium-high heat in 1 tablespoon olive oil until just softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Spread on a sheet pan and refrigerate until cool. • In the same pan, saute the onion over high heat in 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook another 5 to 6 minutes, until soft. Spread on a sheet pan and refrigerate until cool. • Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to boil over high heat. Blanch the beans until tender, 1 to 3 minutes. Prepare an ice bath, then drain the beans and shock them in the ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside. • Meanwhile, in a blender, combine the garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway, mace, fenugreek, mint, tomato paste, chipotle pepper and vinegar on high speed. With the machine running, slowly add the remaining olive oil until emulsified. With the machine still running, slowly thin the dressing with water until it coats the back of a spoon. • Place the beans in a large mixing bowl. Add the cooled corn, bell peppers and onions. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Serve at room temperature.
Sweet and Tangy Coleslaw Courtesy of Table Three’s Jodie Ferguson 8 SERVINGS 4 cups shredded green cabbage 1 cup shredded red cabbage 1 cup shredded carrot ½ cup sugar ½ cup apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. whole-grain Dijon mustard 1 tsp. celery seed ½ tsp. kosher salt June 2015
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ cup canola oil Thinly sliced green or red onions, for garnish (optional) • In a large bowl, toss together the green cabbage, red cabbage and carrot. Set aside. • In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar and vinegar until the sugar is dissolved. Add the mustard, celery seed, salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil, until just combined. • Pour the dressing over the cabbage and carrots. Toss to coat, then refrigerate 30 minutes. • Garnish with the green or red onions, if desired. Serve cold or at room temperature.
T3 Street Corn Courtesy of Table Three’s Jodie Ferguson 4 SERVINGS 5 ears corn, shucked 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. coriander ½ tsp. cumin ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper, plus more to taste 1 poblano pepper 2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. canola oil, divided 1 tsp. minced garlic Juice of 1 lime Juice of ½ lemon Kosher salt, to taste Sour cream or mayonnaise, for garnish (optional) Sliced green onions, for garnish (optional) • Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Add the corn and cook 1 minute. Remove and pat dry. • Make a spice rub by combining the chili powder, coriander, cumin, pepper and cayenne in a small bowl. • Coat the corn and poblano pepper with 2 tablespoons oil and the spice rub. • Prepare a charcoal grill for high, direct heat or a gas grill for high heat. • Grill the corn, rotating a quarter turn every 1½ minutes, until slightly charred on all sides. Grill the poblano, rotating a quarter turn every 3 minutes, until charred on all sides. Set aside until cool enough to handle. • Slice the kernels from the cob and place in a large mixing bowl; discard the cobs. Stem and seed the poblano, then julienne and add it to the bowl. Toss with the garlic, lime juice, lemon juice, the remaining 1 teaspoon canola oil and salt to taste. Garnish with the sour cream or mayonnaise and green onion, if desired.
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STUFF TO DO:
THIS MONTH BY BYRON KERMAN
West County Restaurant Week June 1 to 7, participating restaurants, westcountyrestaurantweek.net There are many delicious choices to make when more than a dozen West County restaurants offer three courses for $25. Will it be loaded tater tots, heirloom-tomato Caprese salad and the Grand Marnier flan at Walnut Grill or a cup of gumbo, shrimp and grits, and berry cobbler with ice cream at Bishop’s Post? The fun abounds at Gianfabio’s, McCormick & Schmick’s, Satchmo’s Bar & Grill, Three Kings Public House and other participating restaurants.
St. Louis Local Foods Challenge June 1 to 30, participating locations, stlfoodchallenge.org Get in the habit of making smart, sustainable choices with the St. Louis Local Foods Challenge. Throughout the month, seek out locally sourced foods to cook at home and dine out at restaurants that showcase local ingredients. Challenge events include a cocktail demo starring local spirits at Planter’s House (June 11), a potluck at EarthDance Farms (June 20), a DIY sauerkraut and kimchi workshop at Local Harvest Cafe (June 23), a barbecue at Tower Grove Farmers Market (June 27) and many others. Sign up for the challenge and get discounts at participating restaurants and shops, a tote bag and a clear conscience.
International Horseradish Festival June 5 – 6 to 10 p.m.; June 6 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; June 7 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Woodland Park, 302 Pine Lake Road, Collinsville, Illinois, 618.344.2884, horseradishfestival.net Did you know that much of America’s horseradish is grown right in the Metro Denotes a Sauce Sponsored event
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East? Did you know that the annual International Horseradish Festival in Collinsville is goofy fun for the whole family? I’m talkin’ root-grinding demos, a root derby (think Pinewood Derby, but with cars made from horseradish roots), a root-sacking contest, a root toss, root golf, a bloody mary contest and the Little Miss Horseradish Pageant. Concessions include fried horseradish pickles, burgers with horseradish, Philly cheesesteaks with horseradish and other edibles that pay homage to this bracing root.
Chicken Raising and Processing Workshops Dates and locations vary, 573.764.2324, stuartfarm.com Halfway between St. Louis and Jefferson City, in the little town of Gerald, you’ll find Stuart Farm, where they really know chickens. This hormone-free farm has become a destination for urbanites who want to learn how to raise and butcher poultry. Basic Chicken Processing (June 6) covers humane slaughter, plucking and butchering. Raising and Processing Meat Chickens (June 7) includes discussion of brooding, feed, pasturing, predators, butchering and packaging, plus a farm tour and four processed chickens to take home. Finally, Raising Chickens for Food, Fun and Profit (June 28) takes place off-site at the Evergreen Institute in Gerald.
Shakespeare Festival St. Louis Communal Dining June 11 and 12 – 6 p.m., Shakespeare Glen at Forest Park, St. Louis, 314.531.9800 x101, sfstl.com Dining under the stars and then taking in an outdoor production of Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra sounds like the classiest date imaginable. Enjoy a fourcourse meal starring appetizers of grilled corn gazpacho, pickled corn salad and June 2015
corn fritters with bacon jam; summer green salad with white beans, prosciutto and grilled peaches; grilled turkey medallions and tomato-braised summer squash with family-style sides of grilled lamb sausages, cucumber-tomato slaw, tzatziki sauce and grilled pita; and ricotta pound cake with summer berry compote. Vegetarian options and a cash bar are available, and online reservations include a reserved seat for the show.
St. Louis Brewers Guild Heritage Festival June 12 – 7 to 10 p.m.; June 13 – 1 to 4 p.m. and 7 to 10 p.m., Central Field at Forest Park, 5300 Wells Drive, St. Louis, stlbg.com Craft beer is the order of the day at the annual St. Louis Brewers Guild Heritage Festival. Some 33 breweries will pour more than 100 brews during three-hour sampling sessions under tents in Forest Park. Look for homebrewers sharing their beers, too, plus food trucks and live music.
Food Truck Friday June 12 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com More than 20 food trucks plan to park it at Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Friday, including Cha Cha Chow, Vincent Van Doughnut and Smokin’ Monkey. Grab local brews from Urban Chestnut and 4 Hands and stop by the Sauce tent to purchase Speed Passes, which enable holders to use expedited lines for ordering. Come early and bring lawn chairs, blankets, kids and dogs, and enjoy the sounds of Emily Wallace.
Saucy Soirée June 28 – 5 to 10 p.m., St. Louis Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucysoiree.com Get your tickets for the hottest foodie event of the year, our annual Readers’ Choice party in beautiful Union Station. Be the first to know (and taste!) whom you voted this year’s favorites in the St. Louis food scene. Mingle and taste goodies from dozens of top restaurants, wineries and breweries, and rock out to live music from Miss Jubilee as well as Dawn Weber and the Electro Funk Assembly. Tickets include complimentary food and beverage tastings from 40 St. Louis-area establishments and a signature cocktail or specialty brew.
Schlafly Farmers Market
sponsored events It’s My Own Damn Fault Food Truck Event June 4 – noon to 8 p.m., Hollywood Casino St. Louis, 7777 Casino Center Drive, Maryland Heights, 855.785.4263, hollywoodcasinostlouis.com/entertainment Get the beach party started before the Jimmy Buffet concert at the Hollywood Casino parking lot with outdoor bars and 10 mobile eateries like Pie Oh My! and Gioia’s Deli, who will pull up at 3 p.m. Then get in the Margaritaville mood with tribute band Rock This Boat until 7 p.m.
Celebrity Chef Series June 8 – 5:30 p.m., The Restaurant at the Cheshire, 7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com The Restaurant at The Cheshire and Sauce welcome acclaimed chefs Colby and Megan Garrelts of Bluestem in Kansas City and Rye in Leawood, Kansas. The Garrelts will join The Restaurant chef Rex Hale for a five-course wine dinner, and the duo will also discuss their new cookbook, Made in America, and sign copies available for purchase through Left Bank Books. Reservations available online. June 2015
Wednesdays – 4 to 7 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337 x2, schlaflyfarmersmarket.com Stop by the Schlafly Farmers Market on your way home from work Wednesdays and gather your local produce from nearly 30 vendors, including newcomer Ludwig Farmstead Creamery.
Midtown Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: Midtown Farmers Market Step into summer at Midtown Farmers Market. Pick up baskets of berries and peaches from Tasheek Produce and loaves of sourdough and buttery croissants from Refection Bakery, and grab a snack from Tamale Man while you shop.
Tower Grove Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Summer bounty is ripe for the picking at Tower Grove Farmers Market. More than 60 vendors, including newbies Freeland’s Strawberries, Stellina and Clementine’s Creamery, will sell everything from produce and meat to preserves and bread. Arrive early to join in a free yoga session before taking your pick of the produce. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49
wanting to do something for years with garlic cheese bread in sandwich form; Thunderbird, a meaty, flavorful sandwich; and Nina Bella, a warm veggie sandwich. Tell me about Melo’s Pizzeria. It’s named after my father. It’s a tribute to him, the old Italian-American St. Louis community and St. Louis in general. It’s Neapolitan-style with our own little twist. For example, we were thinking of a pork belly – smoke it and have it heavily spiced along with chile-infused honey. So when the pizza comes out: sauce, cheese, spiced pork belly and drizzled hot honey. It’s outside the (Neapolitan pizza) certification, but its going to taste really good. What’s the story on your hat? If I go to a hockey game without my hat, when I see people from the deli, they won’t know who I am. My uncle wore a hat like this – brim up, never down. It’s sort of in honor to him. What’s the most memorable blues act at Blues City Deli? Kim Wilson. He’s with The Fabulous Thunderbirds and is one of the top blues harmonica players in the world. When he walked in, I was shaking. I was like, I cannot believe this guy is in Blues City Deli.
Blues City deli 2438 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com
Vince Valenza
How did Blues City Deli become a St. Louis institution? “There’s a lot of feeling and soul in the food, the energy of the room, the music, the staff,” said owner Vince Valenza. He hopes to make his new venture, Melo’s Pizzeria, opening next door to Blues City Deli this summer, as popular as his decadeold sandwich shop. Here’s Valenza’s recipe for success.
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Why do so many people love your deli? I hope people feel comfortable, that they’re getting the most bang for their buck – a really good sandwich, a half-hour of time away from the crazy world. They can just kick back and feel at home. Do you come to work every day? Even on my day off. I like to be here.
It’s my passion. It feels good. You know when you’re a little kid and you look forward to getting up to play whiffle ball with your friends? It’s the same thing. Who taught you the art of customer service? My mom and dad. It was our life. When people came over that weren’t in the family, you treated them like family. You just open your arms to people. What has 10 years in the restaurant business taught you? Think things through when you’re going to make a change. You can make smarter decisions if you go about things in a slower fashion. You just changed the Blues City Deli menu. This was the most drastic change that we’ve done. We took off three sandwiches. We added a few items: Big Tommy – I’ve been
On this month’s Sound Bites, Vince Valenza of Blues City Deli and Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse join Sauce executive editor Ligaya Figueras to discuss how their restaurants rose to become St. Louis institutions and their latest endeavors to make the local dining scene even tastier. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, June 19 at noon and 10 p.m.
June 2015
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
WHAT I DO
What inspired you to open Blues City Deli? I knew I wanted to do Italian food and sandwiches. I had developed a love for blues music. I never thought to meld the two until I went to New Orleans. Down there, the music, the food, the culture – it’s a nice recipe. What item could you never take off the menu? The muffuletta. It can stand up to anything down in New Orleans. It’s the root of the whole theme because the menu is based on the blues music highway. It starts in New Orleans.
You’re a musician yourself. Do you still play? Once in a while, I’ll jump on stage. The protocol is, if they ask you, you go. You don’t volunteer and say, “Can I play?” – Ligaya Figueras
June 2015
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