March 2015

F R I E D

CHICKEN

takes flight

chicken & waffles from atomic cowboy p. 32

T H E U LT I M AT E

THE WORKING

CLAM CHOWDER

MAN'S DRINK

P. 39 March 2015

P. 21

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

TOAST WITH TH E M OST P. 29

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

TA P I NTO SAU C E ’ S

GUIDE TO BEER FREE, MARCH 2015

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contents MARCH 2015

editors' picks 9

EAT THIS

Mrs. Arnold’s Saturday Night Fried Shrimps p. 13

Campfire S'mores Nitro Ice at Ices Plain & Fancy

10

FIXATIONS 8 items at the top of our shopping list right now

reviews

22

COCKTAILS Messing with time in a bottle

13

NEW AND NOTABLE Old Standard Fried Chicken

by michael renner

by ligaya figueras 24

VEGETIZE IT Beer cheese soup

16

POWER LUNCH Rice Thai Bistro

by kellie hynes

by byron kerman

27

19

Fried bologna sandwich

NIGHTLIFE

MAKE THIS by dee ryan

4204 Main St. Brewing Co.

last course

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Features 29

by matt berkley

dine & drink

(Flip the magazine over for Sauce’s Guide to Beer)

42

TOAST WITH THE MOST 32

21

by byron kerman

FRIED + REVIVED

A SEAT AT THE BAR

44

by rebecca koenig

by glenn bardgett, cory king, and ted and jamie kilgore

March 2015

WHAT I DO Marc Gottfried of William K. Busch Brewing Co.

by ligaya figueras

Photo by Carmen Troesser

by sara graham

STUFF TO DO

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

Pictured: Brewer (and Sauce writer) Cory King. Read "Long Live the King" (p. 19) to find out why this whiz kid of St. Louis suds is quickly earning international acclaim.

39

THE ULTIMATE CLAM CHOWDER by catherine klene

COVER DETAILS Fried + Revived Atomic Cowboy’s south-of-the-border chicken and waffles is among the dozens of fried chicken dishes taking this city by storm. For more on how fried fowl is spreading its wings, turn to p. 32. photo by Carmen Troesser

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M A R C H 2 015 • VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 3 PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL SPECIAL SECTIONS EDITOR PROOFREADER FACT CHECKERS PRODUCTION DESIGNER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

What beer is in your fridge right now?

1 Blue Moon, 2 O'Fallon Wheach, 6 Estrella Damm

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

1 Blue Moon, 3 UCBC Zwickel, 5 Michelob Ultra

EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2015 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Ligaya Figueras Meera Nagarajan Garrett Faulkner Catherine Klene Garrett Faulkner Emily Lowery Rebecca Koenig, Kristin Schultz Michelle Volansky Catherine Klene Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth Jochum, Elizabeth Maxson, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Garrett Faulkner, Ligaya Figueras, Sara Graham, Katie Herrera, Eric Hildebrandt, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Catherine Klene, Rebecca Koenig, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie Pearson, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Maureen Zegel Rebecca Ryan 2nd Shift Art of Rebecca Ryan Neurosis – one of the best IPAs out Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg, there. It stands up to all the West Jackie Wagner Coast IPAs. Jill George Georgia Kaye, Rima Parikh, Victoria Sgarro

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 March 2015

letter from the editor

R

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

espect the homebrewer. That’s what I learned recently while chatting with beer enthusiasts who brew their favorite beverage at home. DIY brewers have a profound interest (bordering on obsession) for what water, malt, yeast and hops can do. And they don’t even get paid for it. Granted, they do get to drink the fruits of their labor. Sometimes we do, too.

I got an intoxicating taste of homebrewing talent when I spent an evening at a STL Hops Homebrew Club meeting.

Under the leadership of Troy Meier, its president and founder (otherwise known as the Supreme Overlord), the 30-member club meets monthly at Perennial Artisan Ales to sample and critique one another’s concoctions. One such beer I sipped was Davo McWilliams’ American IPA, which netted him first place at the 2014 Ballpark Village Brew Fest homebrewing contest and led to his beer being created at Anheuser-Busch’s Research Pilot Brewery this winter.

McWilliams also gave me a snifter of his Belgian dark strong.

It was memorably delicious with notes of candied grapefruit, chocolate and raisins.

March 2015

Ligaya Figueras with STL Hops Homebrew Club president and founder Troy Meier, left, and member and award-winning homebrewer Davo McWilliams, right.

a profession. Another is Marc Gottfried, who racked up 16 years at craft brewery Morgan Street before joining William K. Busch Brewing Co., a few years ago. As Gottfried told me in this month’s What I Do (p. 44), he now considers himself “a more complete brewer” as he battles for quality and consistency in Kräftig American lagers.

As I tasted the unique beers crafted by these homebrewers, I recalled what Mike Sweeney, creator and founder of beer website STL Hops and craft beer manager for Lohr Distributing, told me only hours earlier: “Homebrewers are some of the most forward-thinking. They are pushing the envelope as far as the brewing scene goes.” The topic of our conversation was Cory King, head brewer for Perennial Artisan Ales and brewmaster/ co-founder of Side Project Brewing, whose career as a mad fermentationist began in his Soulard apartment.

Gottfried’s answers to my questions surprised me. I hope that this issue is full of surprises for you as well, from the beer release dates you need to mark on your calendar (Guide to Beer, p. 5) to the secrets for cooking the ultimate clam chowder (p. 39) to rethinking toast’s humble station and making it the best counterpart to your pint (p. 29).

King is just one of the many faces advancing the beer scene that you’ll meet in our annual Guide to Beer (flip the magazine over to check it out). He’s also on the roll call of brewers who experimented at home before turning it into

Cheers,

Ligaya Figueras Executive editor saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

Bonfire season lives on in the CAMPFIRE S’MORES NITRO ICE at ICES PLAIN & FANCY. Toasted marshmallow ice cream is whipped into a frenzy within a haze of liquid nitrogen, then swathed in house-made hot fudge and pierced with graham cracker and Hershey’s chocolate pieces. But what takes this seasonal sundae to the next level is the smoke PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

captured under the lid of the serving cup. Pop the top, release that campfire smoke and dig in to the coolest, creamiest s’more in town.

ICES PLAIN & FANCY, 2256 S. 39TH ST., ST. LOUIS, 314.601.3604, ICESPLAINANDFANCY.COM

March 2015

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Fixations From decadent cheese to healthy chips, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

2013 Round Pond Estate Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc This estate sauvignon blanc from Napa Valley has notes of melon, peach and tropical fruit. Mildly acidic, it pairs perfectly with shellfish and veggies. $24. Bin 51 Wine & Spirits, 200 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville, 618.307.5909, bin51wines.com

Twelve Recipes by Cal Peternell The Chez Panisse chef offers a lovingly written codice of recipes (Chapter 1: Toast!) for the home cook seeking confidence in the kitchen. $27. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

Boska Cheese Curler Fancy cheese requires fancy presentation. Twirl the handle on this elegant cheese wheel to shave paper-thin curls, then devour your handiwork. $60.

Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese Kentucky Rose It’s creamy and buttery with an earthy hint on the rind and a briny finish. Small wonder this beautiful pressed cow’s milk cheese is becoming a flagship for the artisanal Kentucky producer. $28.50 per pound.

Salume Beddu, 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.3100, salumebeddu.com

Marble Wine Chiller Put that sauv blanc on ice with a touch of class. Pale gray stone with minimalist stylings and a felt bottom turns serving white or sparkling wine tableside into an art. $30. Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com

Olive Wood Honey Dipper This kitchen tool is as adorable as Winnie the Pooh. Dip it in honey, then drizzle the sweet amber nectar on whatever tickles your fancy. $10. Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com

Simply 7 Roasted Red Pepper Hummus Chips Like hummus as a dip? Try it as a guilt-free chip that pops with the flavor of roasted red bell peppers. $5. The Natural Way, 8110 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.961.3541, thenatway.com

NoWait App Waiting for a table is so 2014. Use this handy app to jump in line at popular places like Peacemaker, Mission Taco Joint and Rooster before you ever leave the house. Free. Available for iPhone and Android.

Turn to p. 29 to find out where toast is trending in St. Louis.

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

Fried chicken at Old Standard Fried Chicken

new and notable

Old Standard Fried Chicken

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

F

ried chicken is America’s great equalizer, food for plebes and 1-percenters alike. But can you put the staple of American gastronomic lore on too high a pedestal? Can the stuff of Sunday suppers, diners and church picnics be revered to the point of fetishism? After all, it’s uncomplicated; anybody can make it with nothing more than a bird, flour, salt, pepper and hot oil. I have no great insight as to why we’re seeing so much of it lately, but when national big-wig chefs like Thomas Keller and David Chang put fried chicken on their menus, something’s up.

new and notable OLD STANDARD FRIED CHICKEN p. 13 / power lunch RICE THAI BISTRO p. 16 / nightlife 4204 MAIN STREET BREWING CO. p. 19 March 2015

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Undoubtedly, this is excellent chicken, and excellently made: brined, dredged in seasoned flour and left to dry before it is dunked in buttermilk, dredged again and fried under pressure (“broasted”) in grapeseed and canola oil, a process yielding remarkably juicy meat and greasefree skin. The double dredge wraps the big, meaty pieces like a thick, copper-colored winter coat, one that doesn’t slip off when bitten into. Those used to a light, crispy coating will exercise their jaws; there is a lot of crunch to this chicken, the kind that holds up when eating it cold the next day. The seasoning was pronounced with salt, pepper, garlic powder and smoked paprika. On the side came the house hot sauce and, as if in homage to Poremba’s Mediterranean heritage, a cup of honeyed yogurt dip with lemon zest.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

When Old Standard first opened, many groused about the prices for its whole, half, two-piece and a la carte servings.

Admittedly, they were high enough to make going out for something as basic as fried chicken a special occasion, the opposite of the “chicken shack” vibe the restaurant tries to portray. Since my visits, prices have been lowered by $2 to $4 and the accompanying sides (“trimmings”) increased by one.

Last October, chef-owner Ben Poremba opened Old Standard Fried Chicken in a renovated police horse stable in Botanical Heights. Yes, more fried chicken in a city flocking with it, from established oldtimers like Hodak’s and Porter’s to newer, posher restaurants like The Libertine, Three Flags Tavern and Juniper.

With Old Standard, Poremba has confidently swaggered into a subculture that elicits as many polarized opinions, secret recipes and endless riffs as barbecue. It’s probably why his research tour took him to more than 500 eateries around the country.

Some will cotton to Old Standard’s decor.

With its bare, ornamental two-by-four rafters, plywood-topped tables and benches,

AT A GLANCE Old Standard Fried Chicken 14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

But then there’s the chicken. While I admit a bias for skillet-fried, I have only two criteria for the dish: quality bird and good seasoning. Old Standard scores on both.

Many names of the trimmings are takeoffs on the recipe titles in Ernest Matthew Mickler’s seminal Southern cookbook, White Trash Cooking. To attach their names to altered recipes seems disrespectful. Still, close attention is paid to their execution. Oleta Brown’s Smothered Greens tasted of the sweet, funky potlikker left over from boiling them and had the right amount of vinegary tang. The mashed potatoes were smooth and fluffy and served with creamy fried chicken gravy that seemed more of a béchamel sauce – and was much less savory than expected.

So much is made of the wholesome, humanely raised, drug- and hormonefree chicken from Indiana that the menu description, when I read it, almost sounded like the episode of Portlandia where a couple asks the waitress if the chicken they’re ordering had a good life.

Even before your chicken arrives, you would be remiss to ignore the selection of appetizers, called “snacks” on the menu.

There are house-made fried horseradish pickles, some sweet, some sour, all delicious.

Nobody’s Boiled Peanut Hummus made a fine starter for the table, getting the

whiskey barrel bar tables and fake shutters, Old Standard was made to look like either an unfinished barn or no-frills roadside chicken shack. But there was something off-putting about this countrified simulacrum; it’s not as if real chicken shacks try to be chicken shacks.

Where 1621 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9000, oldstandard.co

Don’t Miss Dishes Besides the fried chicken?

Fried shrimp, bread board and fried pickles

Vibe Unfinished, chicken-shack theme that tries too hard

Entree Prices $10 to $30

Southern treatment by substituting garbanzo beans with peanuts for a nuttier character, then punched up with smoked, pickled peppers. A basket of Mrs. Arnold’s Saturday Night Fried Shrimps came flattened and so crispy-light that they were gone in a single bite. Charlotte’s Mother’s Dressed Eggs, six gems of creamy-mustardy egg halves topped with thinly sliced pickled peppers and cornichons, then dotted with capers and chives, spiffed up the ordinary deviled egg. The seasonal salad – Brussels sprouts, grapefruit, crispy onions and green beans glistening from a toss in vinaigrette and served in a “bowl” of Romaine lettuce leaves – balanced the brightness of citrus with earthy flavor notes.

Order the bread board, but have it served with the chicken. Otherwise, you can’t resist eating your way through two styles of cornbread (dense, crusty “Real” and the cakier “Yankee”) and two types of biscuits (flaky and drop). An order comes with a choice of four flavored butters and jams. Our lemon-honey and molasses-pecan butters and strawberry jam selections were fine, but as one dining companion pointed out, plain salted butter would have been just as good.

There is bourbon galore behind the bar.

Whiskey-based drinks are straightforward, avoiding the trendy trappings of overwrought cocktails. Beer is limited to cans of Busch, PBR, a few craft brews and a rotating Urban Chestnut draft handle. Best among the wines, categorized as red, light white, white, sparkling or pink sparkling, are the grüner veltliner, an Austrian white, and the French sparkler Saint-Hilaire. Both were tingly and acidic enough to make excellent accompaniments to fried food. In addition to bottled micro soft drinks like Ski and Bundaberg, Old Standard makes its own fizzy concoctions in flavors like elderflower, celery leaf and double cream soda.

Thematic flubs aside, Old Standard is a fine addition to Poremba’s growing stable of restaurants (Olio, Elaia, La Patisserie Choquette) and provides us with another version of classic American fare, seen through the eyes of one of its most ardent fans.

When Brunch and regular menu: Sun. – 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Lunch: Mon. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Dinner: Mon. to Sat. – 4:30 p.m. to midnight March 2015

March 2015

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reviews POWER LUNCH

Power Lunch

RICE THAI BISTRO

BY BYRON KERMAN | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM

A rotund statue of Buddha, dancing in ecstasy, presides over the dining room at West County’s Rice Thai Bistro. You, too, may find yourself doing a happy dance – once you learn to navigate the hit-or-miss menu of Asian-American specialties.

3 PEOPLE WHO NEED PEOPLE

1

Owners Bryan and Nina Prapaisilpa [2] often emerge from the kitchen to say hello with beaming smiles, and you want them to do well. You may also want them to train the waitstaff a little harder.

Rice Thai Bistro Rare was the lunchtime 14536 Manchester Road, server who knew the Winchester, 636.220.1777, difference between the ricethaibistro.com red, yellow and green curries on the menu.

IN THE BEGINNING The appetizers are all over the map. Skewers of chicken satay marinated in curry made for a familiar treat that was juicy, freshtasting and served with peanut sauce. The crab Rangoon [1] may elicit chuckles of amusement; instead of traditional wontons, cream cheese is packed into spring roll wrappers as long as the plate. There was practically enough cream cheese in one serving to make a whole cheesecake. The fish cakes, imbued with flavors of spicy curry and kefir lime, have the spongy texture of the fish balls often found in Asian soups, but they made more of a visual curiosity than a delicious starter. The spring rolls were a disappointment. With the standard filling of mushy vegetation found in ho-hum egg rolls and over-fried, oily shells, I could stomach only a few bites.

THE TAKEAWAY It’s all too easy to zoom right past Rice Thai Bistro, located in an inconspicuous strip mall on Manchester Road. But if you did, you’d miss out on that dynamite Tom Yum Shrimp soup and the other worthy lunch entrees. Despite the menu’s – and staff’s – periodic foibles, the Prapaisilpas are making lunch here a tasty, if not always transcendent, affair.

2 SPIRITLESS SALAD AND SOUPS Almost every lunch special is served with a small house salad and a cup of soup.

The house salad dressing is a pineapple vinaigrette that’s a culinary shotgun wedding of fruit juice and vinegar, the flavors forced into an uneasy union. The vegetable soup lacked flavor and the seaweed-tofu soup, served in vegetable broth, was pleasant but not exactly a ticket to nirvana.

THE MAIN EVENT Several of Rice Thai Bistro’s lunch specials are spectacular, the Thai classic Tom Yum Shrimp soup most of all. The hot-andsour synergy of herbs, ginger, lemongrass

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and chile paste is not just magic; it also has spicy heat to knock out your head cold. So rewarding is the soup that the work it requires – picking out lime leaves and tough bits of lemongrass, de-tailing the shrimp – is more than a fair bargain.

Another standout, green curry [3], also demonstrates Thai spice done right. Round Thai eggplants, bamboo shoots, meat and herbs cavort in a creamy coconut curry on a bed of rice. The kitchen’s pad Thai [4] offers big chunks of fried egg, peanuts, lime, bean shoots and tofu that blend well with the sauce and noodles. Though not as peanut-forward as some pad Thais, it was still balanced. The flavor profile of the Thai

fried rice was surprisingly similar to the pad Thai, the main difference being oily rice instead of noodles. All lunch specials are, at $8 each, a bargain.

SWEET ENDINGS For dessert, the warmed rice pudding was easier on the eyes than the tastebuds. The nutty Thai purple rice doesn’t pick up the dish’s sweet notes of coconut milk like a simple white rice would. On the flipside, the Thai iced coffee was served cloyingly sweet from too much sugar. The beverage was neither as refreshing nor as fun as Southeast Asian coffee can be.

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nightlife

reviews

4204 Main Street Brewing Co.

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

from local bands like Whiskey Dixon, Lil’ Sister or Slick Ice Blues.

Among the house microbrews were 4204 Main Street several winners: Brewing Co. The easy-sipping 4204 W. Main St., saison had a zippy Belleville, 618.416.7261, orange note that mainstreetbrewingco.com made the beer, served in a tulip glass, refreshing and pleasingly tart. The porter was as smooth, rich and bursting with roasted flavor as they come. Ale drinkers will enjoy the pecan brown’s hint of nuttiness and sparing sweetness. Less successful were the attempts at German beers, like the Märzen, and the amber and American lagers.

Before committing to a full glass or growler, try a beer flight. Inexplicably left off the menu, it’s the best deal in the house: Seven bucks gets you 5-ounce pours of any four beers, served on a petite wooden paddle.

There’s also a full bar with all the standards (my bloody mary was a pint glass spicily soaked to perfection in Absolut), plus a serviceable wine list.

The patio at 4204 Main Street Brewing Co.

O

n a bone-cold Saturday night, the parking lot at 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., Belleville’s newest microbrewery, is overflowing. Like a camp of soldiers, patrons wrapped in flannel and heavy wool lounge around fire pits inside the covered patio, sipping pints of beer crafted on premises and waiting for the band to begin another set.

The place is half-restaurant, halfroadhouse. The design is upscale yet rustic, resembling a less kitschy Texas steak joint.

A generously sized dining room and main bar offer a stone fireplace, spacious booths

March 2015

and high tops, deep black leather chairs and a lot of wood. If you’re looking to quietly swill a few drinks, head to this space. But the noise bleeding over from the patio will have you jealously looking over your shoulder.

On weekend nights, the winter-friendly patio regularly sees lines snaking around its bar and big groups of friends clambering for seats. It’s the kind of place where a biker gang rubs elbows (and pints) with IT managers and former fraternity brothers who haven’t quite grown up, all piling in early to get a seat next to whatever band is blowing the speakers off their wall mounts. Expect a heavy dose of rock, bluegrass and country

Despite admirable contributions to the local beer landscape, when it comes to food, 4204 strangely keeps its pistol sights set on that cowboy roadhouse theme. The staff was quick to plug the aged Angus rib-eyes and porterhouses, butchered in-house with the option of sauteed mushrooms or spicy Boom Boom shrimp. I was content to stick with the smaller fare: The cheddar and potato beer soup was rich, chunky and satisfying, especially when paired with that saison. The thick-cut fried pickles, laced with panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried, came with a toothsome cup of horseradish ranch dip.

Though not a fan of pickles normally, these made a believer of me.

The space that 4204 inhabits has been a revolving door of forgettable venues. This latest tenant, still in its honeymoon phase, looks promising but risks hamstringing itself by trying to be both a steakhouse and brewery. It remains to be seen whether it will become Belleville’s belle dame – or given its Western affectations, Belle Starr. If the crowds and workmanlike brews are any indicators, though, she won’t be riding off into the sunset any time soon.

ORDER IT: 4204 Main Street Brewing Co.

Can’t decide? Mix and match four of the house brews at a steal of a price.

The cheddar and beer potato soup makes a rich, chunky, satisfying starter.

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dine

& drink

See Glenn's Bardgett's pick for a riesling that will impress

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake I consider riesling the greatest white grape because it excels whether the wine is dry, sweet or sparkling. The 2013 Leitz “Leitz Out” Riesling especially impresses.

GLENN BARDGETT Oenophiles will love its Member of the Missouri Wine exotic aroma, perhaps and Grape Board and wine using the term “petrol” to director at Annie Gunn’s describe the fragrance (you can call it “minerality”), the marker of a fine riesling. At 10 percent alcohol, this Leitz is slightly less sweet than many other Rhine wines. Crisp, with superb sweet-tart acidity, this crowd-pleaser may be the most fun you can have for $13.

March 2015

We’re keeping things simple lately, and it doesn’t get more basic than a beer and a shot. The Boilermaker, as this drink combo is called, purportedly earned its namesake from late-1800s Pennsylvania steel workers who commonly downed a shot of whiskey to kill the taste TED AND JAMIE of factory life before drinking KILGORE their beer. Many people shoot the USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart whiskey first and move on to the and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House beer. Still others dump the shot into the beer and guzzle it. Our ritual is to enjoy them as side-byside sippers. For the lucky month of March, we’re pairing Guinness with Irish whiskey: Bushmills Black Bush for Jamie, Tullamore D.E.W. Original for Ted.

The Russian Imperial stout is a heavy-hitting, decadent style that begs to be sipped this time of year. A slight misnomer, this style originated in England, where it was brewed for the Baltic states and Russia, finding CORY KING popularity among Russian Certified Cicerone, head czars of the 1800s. Many brewer at Perennial Artisan American stouts have roots in Ales and founder of Side this style and are characterized Project Brewing by a hefty ABV, coffee and chocolate undertones and assertive hops. Missouri favorites like 2nd Shift Liquid Spiritual Delight, Boulevard Imperial Stout and 4 Hands Bona Fide Imperial Stout are perfect for savoring as you debate world politics with friends. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

COCKTAILS

A Whiskey Soured at BC's Kitchen

Messing with time in a bottle

BY LIGAYA FIGUERAS PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Getting old isn’t easy.

But the bartenders at BC’s Kitchen in Lake Saint Louis are having a good time facing the struggles of aging head on. No, they’re not trying to turn back the clock to party like they did in their 20s. In fact, they’re trying to speed up the maturation process – not for their bodies, but for your drinks.

Bartenders Justin Cardwell and Matt Seiter both have experience infusing spirits, but it can take weeks for the flavors to mellow and integrate. The duo wondered whether there was a faster way to achieve the same results. The solution: a sonicator, a device that harnesses sound waves to agitate molecules using an ultrasonic bath.

The machine that BC’s uses – it had a former life cleaning jewelry – looks like

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a tiny bathtub with a metal cage inside.

Ultrasonic waves move through the water to initiate a process called cavitation, whereby the waves bang against submerged Mason jars filled with alcohol, spices and fruit peels. This agitation breaks apart chemical compounds and causes the molecules to disperse. For these bartenders, flipping the switch is a speedy way to extract flavor-rich compounds that make, say, a cucumberinfused gin taste delicious.

For a taste of cool science, order A Whiskey Soured, a combination of bourbon, orange and lemon peels, sugar and citric acid. Cardwell and Seiter wanted to make a whiskey sour using citric acid instead of juice for a readymade, shelf-stable product to facilitate quick service at the bar. They sealed the ingredients in Mason jars and gave

them a 20-minute, 110-degree bath in the sonicator. Compare that brief dip to the nearly two weeks it takes to achieve the same flavors by letting the jar sit undisturbed for weeks and periodically shaking it to extract the oils.

“It turns the aging process on its head,” Cardwell said after his initial experiments with the sonicator in late fall. Since then, BC’s bartending team has made coffee bitters and falernum using the method, and lavender bitters and limoncello are next in line.

Coffee bitters normally take four weeks to make. At BC’s, it takes 48 hours to infuse Goshen dark roast coffee, golden raisins, cocoa nibs, vanilla beans, star anise, burdock and calamus roots, molasses and Old Grand-Dad 100-proof bourbon. The tastiest application of

these bitters is Doctored Kola, a boozedup, soda fountain-style drink made with bourbon, house-made Kola syrup, lime juice, soda water and a few dashes of sonicated coffee bitters.

For a tummy-warming drink with similar chemistry, order BC’s hot buttered rum.

Brown butter-infused Jamaican rum lends body, and hot apple cider and lemon provide acidic balance, but it’s the falernum – that sweet, spicy syrup indispensable for making tiki drinks, made in a flash at BC’s – that pulls the drink together. Getting old never felt, or tasted, so good.

BC’s Kitchen 11 Meadows Circle Drive, Lake Saint Louis, 636.542.9090, billcardwell.com

March 2015

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VEGETIZE IT

Beer Cheese Soup

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

W

e live in an era of vegetarian menus and Meatless Mondays, yet to some, plant-based eating is inconceivable. Fortunately, I’ve found the phrase “Hey, beer is vegan,”* inspires understanding among even the most incredulous omnivores. If nothing else, humanity is united in its enjoyment of frosty, fermented beverages.

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Since beer is universally appreciated, I wondered if vegan beer cheese soup might be the Rosetta Stone of food – the dish that decodes veganism for omnivores. A quick check of the traditional recipe revealed basic ingredients: beer, dairy and broth.

St. Louis is home to myriad delicious craft beers. Nutritional yeast is a vegan wonder-food with an abundance of salty, cheesy flavor. Vegetable broth is easy to make and easier to purchase.

How hard could it be to pull a vegan beer cheese soup together?

Plenty hard. My first attempt yielded a thin broth, not velvety like the milkand cheese-filled version. Adding soy milk didn’t help; my reaction to the strong aftertaste can be visually illustrated by a retching cat. I tried to thicken the soup with a slurry, a fancy culinary term to describe a mixture of a cold liquid and a raw starch such as flour. Because I was feeling oh-soclever, I used beer as the liquid for the slurry. Clever, but totally wrong. The texture was indeed sublime, but once incorporated into the soup, it tasted devastatingly bitter.

If anyone could fix my beer soup recipe, it was Andrew Fair, executive chef of Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., and a fellow who doesn’t flinch at “vegan.” Fair explained that hops, a key ingredient in beer, become more bitter-tasting the longer and hotter they cook. (To get technical, it’s the alpha acids in hops that are heataverse.) Since heat correlates with bitterness, my beer slurry, which had to be cooked to neutralize the flour taste, would never work. Neither would deglazing the pan with beer, another of my bright ideas you should try only if you want to make something completely inedible.

March 2015

With soy milk and a slurry both off the table, I went back to basics. For creaminess, I added a diced potato to the mirepoix, a sophisticated-sounding French word for the mix of chopped carrots, onions and celery that forms the base of many soups. Then, I sprinkled the sauteed vegetables with flour and browned them lightly, which gave my soup thickness, minus any overt starchiness. A final purée yielded the smooth, buttery texture that appeals to omnivores and vegans alike.

Since I now understood that the wrong beer would ruin the entire batch of soup, I did a little research (a food writer’s term for day drinking) on several of UCBC’s brews (all UCBC beers are vegan) that were low in International Bitterness Units. IBU is a measurement of a beer’s bitterness on a scale of 1 to 120, because apparently wincing isn’t enough scientific evidence.

Clocking in at 16 IBUs, the light, fruity Schnickelfritz will certainly work, if that’s what you happen to have handy.

But the beer that stole my heart and became my favorite for both the soup and post-soup-making consumption, is Apotheosis. It’s a farmhouse ale fermented with saison yeast, which produces yummy peach and apricot notes. At 18 IBUs, it’s able to withstand a gentle, two-minute warmup at the end of the soup-making session.

I then tackled the issue of cheese.

Ironically, it was the least challenging aspect of this vegan recipe. As I had hoped, nutritional yeast, which is available in the bulk aisle section of most grocery stores, added a cheesy flavor that paired perfectly with the Apotheosis.

Because the ingredients are so specific, my vegan beer cheese soup isn’t as

simple as the traditional version. But the whole of this warm, savory soup adds up to a tasty, complex flavor that’s greater than any of the individual ingredients – particularly if you serve it with pints on the side. * While the ingredients in beer are vegan, some breweries may use animal products during the filtering process.

VEGAN BEER CHEESE SOUP 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 4 Tbsp. vegan margarine, such as Earth Balance Buttery Sticks 3 celery stalks, diced 2 medium carrots, diced 1 large onion, diced 1 large russet potato, peeled and diced 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp. flour 5 cups low-sodium vegetable broth 3 bay leaves 1 cup Urban Chestnut Apotheosis or other low IBU beer* ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast flakes 1 Tbsp. yellow miso paste ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves • In a large Dutch oven, melt the margarine over medium-high heat.

Add the celery, carrots, onion and potato. Cook 8 minutes, until the vegetables begin to brown.

• Lower the heat to medium. Add the salt, pepper and flour, stirring to coat the vegetables with the flour mixture. Cook 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the flour

begins to darken.

• Add the broth, scraping up any burned bits from the bottom. Add the bay leaves. Bring the soup to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low and let simmer 10 minutes, until the vegetables soften and the soup thickens.

• Remove the bay leaves. Stir in the beer, nutritional yeast and miso paste. Cook 2 minutes on low heat.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Remove from the heat.

• Using an immersion blender, blend the soup to a smooth texture. Divide among the bowls, garnish each with parsley and serve immediately. * Urban Chestnut Apotheosis is available in growlers at UCBC Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis and UCBC Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com

Hungry for more vegetarian dishes? Go to samg.bz/ saucemeatless every Monday to check out our Meatless Monday column, where you’ll find recipes to prepare tasty vegetarian fare at home.

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MAKE THIS FRIED BOLOGNA SANDWICH ACTIVE TIME: 8 MINUTES

MAKE THIS A fried bologna sandwich is not highfalutin food, but every now and again, it’ll cure what ails you. In a nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat, brown an onion sandwich bun, cut sides down, 2 minutes. Remove the bun and set aside. Cut four ¼-inch slits at the edges of a ¼-inch-thick slice of bologna to prevent it from curling while frying. Over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon canola oil in the skillet. Cook the bologna until the bottom is nicely browned, then flip and cook 1 minute more. Remove and set aside. Crack an egg into the skillet and season to taste with freshly ground black pepper. Fry the egg 1 minute, flip and cook to desired doneness (we like a runny yolk). In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon sweet pickle relish, 1 teaspoon stone-ground mustard and ¼ teaspoon freshly grated horseradish. Spread the mayo mixture on the toasted bun. Place the cooked bologna on top, followed by the fried egg. Top with the bun and serve immediately. – Dee Ryan

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

For a taste of Italy, make this sandwich using sliced mortadella, a pork sausage with origins in Bologna.

Find house-made mortadella at THE BLOCK, 146 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.918.7900, theblockrestaurant.com; BOLYARD’S MEAT & PROVISIONS, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com; and TRUFFLES BUTCHERY, 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com.

If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five.

Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes you can whip up in a jiffy and that require just five key ingredients.

March 2015

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March 2015

W I T H

T H E

by sara graham | photos by greg rannells March 2015

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This is not the toast you make at home. It is, instead, an elevated version – like tricked-out mac-n-cheese or gold-dusted hamburgers – a trend with roots in San Francisco that traditionally sticks to breakfast-oriented recipes with butter, sugar, jam or nuts. The toast showing up in St. Louis, however, tends toward savory and offers a radical wave of innovative flavor. And since this is the city of beer, why not wash down your trendy toasted grains with a tall glass of the liquid kind? Out with wine, cheese and crackers – and in with toast.

Pork Shoulder-Sweet Potato Baguette

Pumpkin Toast Oven-roasted pumpkin is tossed with a brown butter vinaigrette made with sour verjuice and sherry vinegar, then mashed and spread on toasted, house-made sourdough bread.

It’s then scattered with shrimp poached in a citrusy court bouillon and dressed with spicy yuzu mayonnaise. This is topped with a Mexican-style vegetable escabeche of sliced radishes marinated in olive oil, vinegar, herbs and onions. Completing the dish are grilled pear slices, radish sprouts and diced chives.

Pair with: Avery Brewing Co. White Rascal.

The Libertine, 7927 Forsyth Ave., Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

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It starts with salt- and brown sugar-cured pork shoulder, pan-seared then braised in chicken stock with sorghum until it achieves a corned beef-like texture and flavor. Next come diced, pan-roasted purple sweet potatoes. Finally, oven-roasted eggplant is blended with goat cheese and labneh before the whole shebang is stacked on toasted baguette slices with grated, cured egg yolk, house-pickled okra and fresh arugula. Pair with: Civil Life American Brown. Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 15860 Fountain Plaza, Ellisville, 636.227.6800, veritasgateway.com

March 2015

Radicchio Agrodolce Crostini Creamy mascarpone cheese is richly balanced by bitter radicchio seasoned in a sweet and sour agrodolce. A half-inch slice of Italian bâtard (similar to a French baguette) is then drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, toasted in a wood-fired oven, spread with mascarpone cheese and topped with the warm agrodolce.

Shaved Parmigiano and toasted pine nuts complete the stunning presentation. Pair with: Modern Brewery Citrapolis. Katie’s Pizza and Pasta, 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com

Butternut Squash-Beet Rye Toast A slice of toasted rye bread, made in-house, is generously smeared with a creamy blend of slow-roasted squash and Heartland Creamery goat cheese, layered with roasted beets and topped with arugula dressed in shallot jam.

This delicious veggie creation gets finished with toasted walnuts and a drizzle of balsamic reduction. A mouthful? Just ask for the “Rye.” Pair with: Bell’s Smitten Golden Rye Ale. Small Batch, 3001 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.380.2040, smallbatchstl.com

Mushroom Conserva Toast This earthy, creamy pairing showcases a conserva made from a bounteous mix of fresh, local mushrooms combined with shallots, chives, thyme, champagne vinegar and olive oil. Add fresh ricotta, blended with olive oil and black pepper and spread on a toasted piece of Miller’s five-grain round bread from Companion Bakery. Pea shoots complete this picture-perfect toast. Pair with: Urban Chestnut Ku’damm. Urban Chestnut Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com

March 2015

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FRIED

REVIVED

BY REBECCA KOENIG PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER 32

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MAMACITAS ANCHO FRIED CHICKEN & WAFFLES atomic cowboy

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FRIED CHICKEN LIVER BANH MI byrd & barrel

After you read how fried chicken is trending in town, you’ll want to listen to this month’s Sound Bites when Sauce executive editor Ligaya Figueras and Old Standard Fried Chicken’s chef-owner Ben Poremba discuss the fried chicken fixation, and the extent to which restaurants go to make their birds fingerlickin’ good. Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, March 13 at noon and 10 p.m.

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S T. L OUIS IS IN L OV E WITH F RIED CHICK EN. Sure, the stuff tastes good. Great, even. But there’s a ferocity to people’s yen for poultry that taste alone cannot explain. As with most comfort food, context counts. Many of us learned to love fried chicken at home, surrounded by family. To some diners, nothing will ever compare to the brownbag recipes our grandmothers made.

scene, there’s going to be this thing you return to. You want that dish, and you want that done well.”

A

It’s the same for chefs. Bob Brazell, chef-owner of forthcoming fast-casual fried chicken restaurant Byrd & Barrel, remembers his St. Louis grandmother cooking the bird in a cast-iron skillet.

Josh Galliano, chef and co-owner of The Libertine, ate his grandmother’s chicken as a kid in Louisiana and at annual family reunions in Mississippi. Old Standard Fried Chicken chef-owner Ben Poremba’s German grandmother made a pounded-thin, schnitzel-like variety.

That deeply personal connection makes fried chicken an exciting template for experimentation. But it also sets a high bar for chefs, who have found that when it comes to fried chicken, everyone’s a critic.

OLD STANDARD FRIED CHICKEN PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

“People know what their preference for good fried chicken is, and they tell you,” Poremba said. “Too crunchy, not crunchy enough, too thick, too chewy.”

The standard may be high, but more and more local chefs are embracing the challenge. St. Louis is enjoying a fried chicken renaissance, inspired not only by memories of Grandma’s cooking, but also a desire to free the American favorite from the tyranny of fast-food empires. The renewed popularity of the finger-licking food doesn’t surprise Dave Bailey, owner of Baileys’ Restaurants, who recently added it to the dinner menu at Rooster on South Grand. “The comfort food thing comes and goes pretty regularly,” Bailey said.

“As much as people really like very cool and new and innovative dishes, and there’s a huge and very important place for (them) in every city’s culinary

March 2015

ALL-AMERICAN ENTREE Universal in appeal but American in essence, fried chicken reflects the country’s motley heritage. The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink traces the dish back to both medieval European fricassee recipes and African deep-frying techniques. The intersection of those cultures in the American South, where enslaved blacks did much of the cooking, produced the salty, crunchy, messy entree we crave today.

“We only have fried chicken because of what African slaves brought over,” Galliano said. “It isn’t codified (by) this long line of French chefs.”

much fried chicken as anything else, and it’s nearly ubiquitous across St. Louis, with styles ranging from Southern at Sweetie Pie’s to Eastern at Hiro Asian Kitchen to Mexican-inflected at Atomic Cowboy. Perkins even organized a Tour de Poulet in August 2014 (another is scheduled for this summer), encouraging diners to try the fried chicken offerings at six participating restaurants.

Contributing to the fried chicken bounty are several new restaurants devoted almost entirely to the American classic. Since Old Standard opened in Botanical Heights last October, it’s had a wait almost every night, Poremba said. The restaurant’s birds are served with classic sides like mashed

potatoes and smothered greens. Poremba’s breading includes self-rising flour, onion and garlic powders, white and cayenne peppers and smoked paprika, yielding fried chicken that is mild on the spice and supple in texture, the crispy skin giving way to the tender meat within.

In January, Leon Braxton Jr. opened Miss Leon’s, a small dining room tucked inside Bombers Hideaway in The Grove. Braxton marinates his chicken overnight, and the restaurant specializes in chicken gizzards and offers all-you-can-eat fried chicken on Sundays. He wants his customers “to feel like they just left their grandmother’s house,” Braxton said.

FRIED CHICKEN AT OLD STANDARD FRIED CHICKEN, RECIPE ON P. 37

The dish has long been a staple of special occasions, a status carried over from West Africa, where chickens connoted ceremonial prestige among the Igbo and other cultures. Many people hailing from the American South and Midwest associate it with important family gatherings and post-church Sunday suppers. But until recently, its down-home reputation kept fried chicken off the menus of many upscale restaurants. Before opening Juniper, owner John Perkins was hesitant to offer the dish, wondering if it was considered a “step down.”

“I had a good deal of reluctance about doing fried chicken years ago because it seemed too pedestrian,” Perkins said.

Thinking back fondly to his childhood, though, when his family ate fried chicken on Sundays either at his grandfather’s house or with their entire church congregation at a gas station restaurant in the Ozarks, made Perkins reconsider. Juniper now sells twice as

Sauce contributors Anne Marie and Daniel Lodholz take the fried chicken dinner to the next level this month on their online column, The Weekend Project. Go to samg.bz/sauceweekendproject for everything you need to make memorable fried chicken with all the fixin’s.

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F RIED CHICK EN the libertine

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Inspired both by visits to Nashville’s hot chicken joints and by his experience making fried chicken with Galliano at the now-shuttered Monarch, Brazell plans to celebrate fried chicken in all its forms when Byrd & Barrel opens at 3422 S. Jefferson Ave., near Cherokee Street.

“We’re gonna do the unexpected; we’re not just doing greens and mashed potatoes and gravy,” Brazell said. “We’re doing funky things like a banh mi sandwich that has fried chicken livers.”

A

Across the board, chefs say there’s room for disagreement about what makes for great fried chicken, and many are loath to share their secret recipes. But they’re passionate enough about the particulars of any fried chicken recipe to divulge a few clues.

One of them is brining. Many chefs insist on the importance of soaking raw chicken before breading and frying it, but the ingredients they use for the brine vary and can include buttermilk, hot sauce, even sweet tea, plus a blend of spices. Brazell soaks his chicken in a buttermilk-based brine for three to four days.

Another is frying oil. Bailey uses rice bran oil for its high smoke point, while Poremba prefers the clean taste of blended grapeseed-canola.

High-quality meat is essential, too.

Poremba sources his from Miller Poultry in Indiana. Bailey buys chickens whole from Buttonwood Farm in California, Missouri. “If I’m not excited about eating that particular chicken, the rest falls to the wayside,” he said. “That’s one of the magical things about fried chicken: If you cook it right, and you put some decent breading on it, and it’s good chicken, it’s going to be delicious.”

White and dark meat require different cooking times and temperatures, according to Galliano, who cooks his dark meat to the point that it doesn’t hang onto the bone. He also strives to integrate the crispy exterior with the juicy interior.

“The beauty moment, the spot-on moment for fried chicken is when the batter or crust you have cooks at the same exact time as the skin rendering out, and they fuse together,” Galliano said. Perkins agreed.

March 2015

“The fusion between the crust and the meat: That’s the glory of fried chicken.”

A BACKWARD GLANCE Some longtime St. Louisans may cry foul about all this newfangled fowl.

And indeed, it would be overreaching to claim the new generation of highprofile chefs is truly resurrecting fried chicken, when some of the most venerated specimens have been around for decades.

Kevin Seltzer, one half of St. Louis dining duo Gentlemen of Chicken, has good things to say about the city’s traditional purveyors of fried chicken.

Once a month, he and buddy Derek Coleman break from their day jobs to sample the offerings at establishments ranging from Krispy Krunchy Chicken (franchised inside convenience stores and food courts) to The Libertine.

Some of his favorite chicken is found at Friendly’s Sports Bar & Grill, Frank and Helen’s Pizzeria, Smitty’s Food & Drink and The Original Crusoe’s.

“I don’t generally experience much of a difference in quality from the family place and the gourmet one,” Seltzer said.

His introduction to fried chicken – family eating contests during which legs, wings, thighs and breasts were each assigned point values – underscores the friendly competition the food elicits, especially among St. Louisans, who aren’t shy about their poultry pride.

“There’s only one legendary fried chicken in St. Louis, and of course, that’s Hodak’s,” said Steve Connors, who’s been bartending at that Benton Park icon for a quarter of a century.

The menu at Crusoe’s, meanwhile, calls its fried chicken the “Best in all of St. Louis.”

“I do have a petition here saying we have better chicken than Hodak’s,” said Chad Schluter, Crusoe’s general and kitchen manager. “Couple of thousand signatures on it. They sell more chicken than I do, but we think ours is the best.”

While the classic joints crow about their chicken, chefs at the newer

restaurants have adopted a humbler approach.

“We never make claims to be your grandma’s fried chicken,” Poremba said. “We never make claims that this is a life-changing experience.” Galliano credits the old-timers for laying the foundation upon which he and his contemporaries build.

“This piece of equipment was designed to mass-produce fried chicken,” Galliano explained. “We’re all now using the same equipment, same technology, to retake this item that has been fast-food-ized, reclaiming this food that is so quintessentially American.”

“We’re standing on their shoulders,” he said.

And one new restaurant is taking back ground quite literally. When Byrd & Barrel starts dishing out fried chicken in the coming weeks, it will do so in a former Popeyes.

THE OLD (AND NEW) STANDARDS

FRIED CHICKEN

T

Despite their differences, restaurants new and old have formed a united front in the fight to take fried chicken back from the fast-food giants. The greatest innovation of the fried chicken renaissance is reaching back into the past to recapture what made us fall in love with the dish in the first place. The difference is in small details, such as the traditional castiron skillet Three Flags Tavern uses to cook its fried chicken, and large ones, like offering full or half-chicken portions that acknowledge chickens as animals rather than assemblages of parts. A conversation Braxton recently overheard on the bus about bad service at KFC convinced him that a new era of fried chicken had arrived.

“People are tired of fast-food fried chicken, and they want good, homecooked fried chicken,” he said. “I think that’s why fried chicken is making a resurgence. People are getting back to their roots.”

Restoring fried chicken’s status as a food for special occasions is one way St. Louis chefs are pushing back against mass production. Farmhaus serves fried chicken as a blue-plate lunch special on Mondays; Smitty’s, as a dinner special on Wednesdays. The Libertine offers it only once a month at a $30 three-course dinner every second Sunday.

Some chefs are even co-opting the tools of fast-food restaurants. At The Libertine, Galliano uses a CVap, a specialized oven originally designed for KFC to keep food moist.

Adapted from a recipe by Old Standard’s Ben Poremba 4 SERVINGS 2 quarts water ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided 8 pieces chicken, skin-on 1 cup self-rising flour 1 cup cornstarch 1 Tbsp. onion powder 1 Tbsp. garlic powder ½ Tbsp. smoked paprika ½ Tbsp. white pepper ¼ Tbsp. cayenne pepper

Frying oil, such as grapeseed, peanut or rice bran Buttermilk, for dredging • In a large pot, combine the water and ½ cup salt and stir to dissolve. Submerge the chicken and brine 4 to 6 hours.

• In a large bowl, mix the flour, cornstarch, the remaining 1 tablespoon salt, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, white pepper and cayenne pepper. Set aside.

• Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Dredge in the flour mixture. Let sit, refrigerated and uncovered, 2 to 6 hours.

• In a deep cast-iron Dutch oven, heat the oil to 325 degrees.

• Dip the chicken in the buttermilk, and dredge again in the flour mixture.

Shake off any excess flour and deepfry 12 to 18 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees for dark meat or 150 degrees for white meat.

• Let the chicken rest 10 minutes on a paper towel-lined plate before serving. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

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the ultimate

CLAM CHOWDER

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

In the great clam chowder debate, everyone has an opinion. Tomato-based Manhattan takes on creamy New England, and there’s even a small rogue faction that declares Rhode Island the best. Within the ranks of team New England, the rancor continues: DeMun Oyster Bar chef (and native New Englander) Ben Edison claims roux is verboten, but Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. chef-owner Kevin Nashan swears by it. Blues City Deli owner Vince Valenza opts for a pork-free version and adds carrots for sweetness, while other recipes call for ham hocks and potatoes. We tested batch after batch and consulted with the experts to bring you the ultimate New England clam chowder. — Catherine Klene

March 2015

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THE CLAMS

BUY IT

You must make your own clam stock, but if you need a little extra clam juice to top it off, use Bar Harbor brand.

Bob’s Seafood regularly has littleneck clams available in-shell.

To save time (and sanity), buy enough littleneck clams for the broth and buy another cup of shucked quahog clams to add texture and flavor to the chowder.

Bob’s Seafood, 8660 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.4844, bobsseafoodstl.com

PRO TIP

Roux is a line in the sand. Broth devotees decry its use, claiming a true clam chowder relies only on potatoes and cream to create a silky smooth soup. We put both versions to the test, and we say bring on the roux – and lots of it. For a thick, luxurious chowder, make a half-cup of roux.

“It’s clam chowder.

It’s not potato chowder.

It’s not bacon chowder.”

In a large pan with high sides, add 1 stick butter and ½ cup flour and cook over low heat 15 to 20 minutes,

whisking frequently.

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– Kevin Nashan, chef-owner, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. March 2015

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

THE ROUX

PRO TIP

“Consider yourself poaching the seafood, not cooking the seafood. Don’t boil the clams; gently simmer them.”

– Ben Edison, executive chef, DeMun Oyster Bar

CLAM STOCK 4 CUPS 20 to 25 littleneck clams,

scrubbed well 4½ cups water, divided ½ cup clam juice, plus more as

needed 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 celery ribs, diced ½ medium onion, diced ½ leek, white parts only, sliced

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

¼ fennel bulb, diced 1 clove garlic, minced ¹∕³ cup dry white wine 8 peppercorns 1 bay leaf 3 to 4 sprigs fresh thyme

• Fill a steamer basket with the clams and place inside a large stockpot. Add 1½ cups water, cover and place over high heat.

Let steam 6 minutes. Uncover and remove any opened clams and set them aside. Cover again and steam the remaining clams another 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the opened clams and set them aside. Discard any that do not open.

• Pour the liquid in the stockpot through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth or a large coffee filter. Reserve the liquid, adding enough clam juice to make 2 cups. Set aside.

• Remove the meat from the cooled clams and set aside.

Reserve the shells.

• In a clean stockpot over medium heat, warm the olive oil and sweat the celery, onion, leek and fennel until soft, 10 to 12 minutes.

Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not brown the vegetables.

• Add the wine and raise the heat to medium-high. Let

March 2015

simmer until the wine is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Add the reserved clam juice, clam shells, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme sprigs and 3 cups water.

Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer gently 30 minutes. The broth should smell like the ocean and taste mildly salty.

• Carefully remove and discard the solids, then strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth or a large coffee filter. Let cool and refrigerate overnight.

CLAM CHOWDER 6 SERVINGS 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch dice ¼ cup minced celery ¼ cup minced leek, white parts

only ½ cup minced shallot 1 large clove garlic, minced ½ cup roux (See p. 40) 4 cups cold clam stock ¾ lb. Yukon potatoes, peeled and diced into ½-inch cubes 3 to 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 2½ cups whole milk, plus more

as needed, divided ½ cup reserved littleneck clam

meat, chopped 1 cup shucked quahog clam

meat, chopped Kosher salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste Finely chopped chives, for garnish • In a large saucepot, saute the bacon over medium-high heat

until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 10 minutes.

Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon, place on a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.

• Lower the heat to medium and sweat the celery, leek and shallot in the bacon fat until soft, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sweat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not brown the vegetables. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside.

• In a separate saucepot over low heat, warm the roux. Add ½ cup clam stock and whisk until the liquid is incorporated, then add another ½ cup stock.

Whisk another 1 cup stock into the roux until incorporated.

• Pour the remaining 2 cups stock into the saucepot with the vegetables over low heat, then add the roux and whisk until everything is incorporated. Add the potatoes, thyme sprigs and

bay leaf and stir to coat. Raise the heat to medium and let simmer, stirring often, until the potatoes are barely fork-tender, about 15 minutes. The mixture will look thick and gluey.

• Remove the saucepot from the heat and slowly stir in 2 cups milk until combined. Fold in the littleneck and quahog clam meat and the bacon and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the chowder cool completely and refrigerate overnight to let the flavors intensify.

• Before serving, place the pot of cold chowder over mediumlow heat, stirring occasionally until warmed through. Add the remaining ½ cup milk and stir to combine, adding more milk to thin if desired. Remove and discard the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with chives and serve with oyster crackers.

PRO TIP “Make it a day in advance.

The flavors really meld together with that time.”

– Vince Valenza, owner, Blues City Deli

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STUFF TO DO:

THIS MONTH

BY BYRON KERMAN

St. Cecelia’s Mexican Fish Fry

Downtown Chili Cookoff

Fridays through March – 4:30 to 8 p.m., St. Cecelia Parish, 906 Eichelberger St., St. Louis, 314.351.1318, stceceliaparishstl.org

March 20 – 5 to 10 p.m., Christ Church Cathedral, 1201 Locust St., St. Louis, Facebook: Downtown St. Louis Restaurant and Bar Association

It’s a regular Lenten hullabaloo at St. Cecelia’s Mexican Fish Fry. One of the most festive fish fries in town offers its popular chiles rellenos, fried cheese quesadillas, tostadas, salmon, cod, fried shrimp, mac-n-cheese, tortilla chips with pico de gallo, tamales, Mexican desserts, lemonade, margaritas and Mexican singing and dancing. Arrive early to avoid big lines, or purchase reservations online. (That’s right – reservations for a church fish fry. Go and you’ll understand.)

C for Cannabis with Tenacious Eats March 7 and 21 – 6:30 p.m., Food Outreach, 3117 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.605.3684, tenaciouseats.com A portion of the proceeds from Tenacious Eats’ March screenings benefit the C for Cannabis legalization campaign, and the films fit the theme like a one-hitter in a dugout. Chef Liz Schuster will make gourmet five-course meals paired with key scenes in Dazed and Confused on March 7 and The Big Lebowski on March 21. The latter event features a Walter Sobchak impersonator. As always, costumes are encouraged.

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More than 20 restaurants will compete at the second annual Downtown Chili Cook-off, sponsored by the Downtown St. Louis Restaurant and Bar Association. The bacchanal of beans and burps also includes live music and games. Ten bucks ($5 if you’re a kid) gets you all the samples you can handle.

The Unofficial Downton Abbey Tea March 10, 18 and 25 – 10 a.m. to noon, Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.577.5100, mobot.org The snooty blue bloods on Downton Abbey like to chill with a few finger sandwiches and share a bit of ripping good gossip. Recreate their teatime at MOBOT’s Unofficial Downton Abbey Tea. Jane Muscroft of Queen’s Cuisine demonstrates how to prepare finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, pasties and desserts in the Edwardian-English style. You may partake of the goodies – provided your manners are proper.

March 2015

Lupulin Carnival March 28 – 2 to 6 p.m., 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, lupulincarnival.com Lupulin is an oil found in hops, and the annual Lupulin Carnival at 4 Hands is a blowout celebration of the stuff. Sample hoppy beers from 50 other breweries from near and far and be among the first to try 4 Hands’ seasonal War Hammer Imperial IPA, which debuts that day. Grain Brewing, Cigar City, Odell, Solemn Oath Brewery, Toppling Goliath and dozens more will pour their fare under the big top. Sip and savor with circus acts, live music and food trucks. Benefits from carnival games go to HOPE for Young Adults with Cancer. Tickets available online.

Hermann Wurstfest March 28 and 29, Stone Hill Winery and Hermannhof Winery, Hermann, 573.486.2744, visithermann.com Crank it out, sausage boy! Nearly every kind of wurst a German has devised is available for munching at Hermann’s annual Wurstfest.

The weather may be chilly, but the freshly smoked and grilled sausage and local beer and wine will keep you warm. After checking out the sausage-making demos and contests, you’ll want to take in the live music and dancing – and bring a camera for the Weiner Dog Derby on Sunday.

classic works of literature through pastry and confections in this event to benefit SLPL’s culinary collection and culinary programming. Enjoy samples of their work while you marvel at their edible masterpieces. Butler’s Pantry will provide savory appetizers, and beer, wine and soda will be available, too. Purchase tickets online.

St. Louis Public Library Welcomes Celebrity Chef and Author Rick Bayless March 24 – 7 p.m., St. Louis Public Library - Central Library, 1301 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.880.8758, slpl.org St. Louis Public Library welcomes celebrity chef, cookbook author and TV host Rick Bayless to the Central Library’s auditorium to speak as part of SLPL’s Food for Thought: A Month of Culinary Events @ Your Library. Bayless will discuss and sign copies of his books Mexican Everyday and Frontera: Margaritas, Guacamoles and Snacks at this free event.

Midtown Farmers Market March 21 – 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: Midtown Farmers Market As long as the weather obliges, the first Midtown Farmers Market of the year will return to University City. Look for vendors like Circle B Farms, Elixir Farm and Biver Farms peddling young spring greens and seedlings for your home garden.

Schlafly Winter Market March 28 – 8:30 a.m. to noon, Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337 x2, schlaflyfarmersmarket.com

sponsored events A Taste of Fiction

This popular winter market is held indoors in the Crown Room at Schlafly Bottleworks.

Shop for winter produce, meats, cheeses, baked goods and other specialty products from local farmers and artisans.

March 6 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., St. Louis Public Library - Central Library, 1301 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.539.0359, slplfoundation.org/about/events Join 15 area pastry chefs and one chocolatier at the library as they interpret March 2015

Denotes a Sauce sponsored event saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

Marc Gottfried

Marc Gottfried was 14 when he started brewing beer at home.

Five years later, he joined Morgan Street Brewery, where he worked for 16 years and rose to become brewmaster before he departed in 2011 for William K. Busch Brewing Co., maker of Kräftig lager and Kräftig light. Here, its vice president of brewing and chief brewmaster – and the most decorated brewer in St. Louis history – gives a behind-thescenes look at his craft.

Why did you leave Morgan Street?

I knew if I didn’t take the risk I would think about it for the rest of my life. While (Kräftig) had a high probability of failure, there was a chance of extreme success. It was one of the hardest decisions I’ve ever had to make. In

In what way? When I left Morgan Street, I thought I was resigning myself to a boring lifetime of brewing the same damn beer over and over.

The chasing (of) consistency and quality that I have to do with this company is equally as challenging and fun as the ability to brew whatever the heck I wanted at Morgan Street.

at it two different ways. One of the guys we work with says, “Guys, stop trying to decide. We’ve got two beers: a light and a regular.” We kind of shot ourselves in the foot. The most efficient way to do it would have been to develop a regular and add water and that’s your light. We didn’t develop it like that. Those recipes are completely different, so I have to brew Kräftig light and lager as totally separate beers.

How did you develop the Kräftig recipes? We were trying to develop one beer, (and) we were just going

Kräftig beers are brewed in La Crosse, Wisconsin at City Brewing Co. How often do you travel there?

I drive to Wisconsin every other week. The day when I can go to work in St. Louis and brew beer, I’ll be a happy guy.

What does the term “craft beer” mean to you? Craft, by definition, is a volume-related thing. It’s annual capacity. But craft is more than that. It’s a movement, a rebirth of beer styles gone by the wayside and a birth of thousands of beer styles that never existed before.

The craft brewing movement was small breweries brewing beer styles that were less common because they were from other countries.

And then those people started experimenting. What if we put it in a barrel? What if we put whiskey in it? What if we put raspberries in it?

That was the beginning.

Apart from your own beer, what do you drink at home? What I had the other day that was awesome was a Samuel Adams Escape Route. It was a Kölsch. Also, I love Bitburger. It’s a Bohemian Pilsner. I drink a lot of Schlafly, too.

Which brewers inspire you?

I probably would never have become a professional brewer if it were not for Phil Colombatto. He was brewmaster at Anheuser-Busch.

(I was) 15 or 16. We go to AnheuserBusch, meet with him. He spends hours with me. At the end, he gives me a book, The Practical Brewer.

It’s looked upon as the bible of the professional brewer. He signs it: “To Marc, I hope your experiences in brewing will be as fulfilling for you as they have been for me.” It inspired me.

- Ligaya Figueras

William K. Busch Brewing Co. kraftig.com

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March 2015

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

WHAT I DO

retrospect, it was the right decision.

I’m more of a complete brewer.

March 2015

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March 2015

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BEER

ST. ST. LOUIS’ LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT INDEPENDENT CULINARY CULINARYAUTHORITY AUTHORITY

Guide to Beer 2015

Cory King, brewer on fire p. 19

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, GUIDE TO BEER 2015

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1. Beer of the month club

BEST BEER BUYS The expert beer drinker knows a brew is only as good as how it’s made. Or bottled. Or served. Here’s what’s at the top of our (beer) shopping list right now. – Maggie Pearson

BEER OF THE MONTH CLUB It’s fun to explore, whether it’s a stout, sour or Schwarzbier.

Enter the Beer of the Month Club at Craft Beer Cellar: You give the staff members a flavor profile, pay a monthly fee and they choose the suds for you. The beer bundle includes 12 smaller bottles (typically 12 ounces each) and three large-format bottles.

From this particular vantage point, ignorance is, in fact, bliss. $58 per month. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, craftbeercellar.com

CUSTOM TAP HANDLES If you've grown into your own as a home tavern enthusiast, serving craft beer instead of Shirley Temples, check out St. Louis-based Newberry Furniture's hand-turned tap handles.

Usually made from reclaimed wood (often with some local lore), these pulls are sure to brew feelings of nostalgia, one way or another. $60. Newberry Furniture, 314.647.6090, newberryfurniture.com

4. Prost posters

HANDS-ON BREWING SESSION Always wanted to brew but don’t have a clue? Sign up for a brewing “exBEERience” at J2 Brewing. Select the style of beer you want to make, then let the staff at J2 guide you through the brewing process. Come back in two to three weeks to bottle and package those suds to take home and impress your neighbors. $110 to $150 (bottles not included).

J2 Brewing, 161 Long Road, Suite 105, Chesterfield, 636.536.9455, j2brewing.com

PROST POSTERS In celebration of its fourth anniversary, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. partnered with local printer Firecracker Press to create a limited series of letterpress prints that toast UCBC’s approach to brewing both modern American (Revolution) and classic European (Reverence) beers. As layered as UCBC's brews, these pieces are a great investment for any beerart lover. $75. Urban Chestnut Grove Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com

SYNEK DRAFT SYSTEM St. Louis entrepreneur Steve Young’s Synek draft system is smaller than a keg and more convenient than a growler. Fill up the flexible 1-gallon bag (that’s two, count ’em, two growlers!) at Schlafly, Civil Life, 4 Hands, Alpha and other area breweries, pop it into the countertop Synek system and enjoy cold draft beer at home for up to one month. Preorder it now to get it by summer. $300. Synek Draft System, syneksystem.com

3. Hands-on brewing session

2. Custom tap handles 5. Synek draft system

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30 Average age of a Schlafly employee

14% Highest ABV Schlafly beer, its single-malt Scottish ale

35

Employees when Schlafly opened in 1991

200 Employees in 2015

SCHLAFLY by the numbers

PORTRAIT BY CARMEN TROESSER

The Saint Louis Brewery has come a long way since its opening Dec. 26, 1991. How does The Lou’s first craft brewpub stack up 24 years later?

Schlafly co-founder Dan Kopman breaks it down. – Catherine Klene

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States where Schlafly is distributed (plus the District of Columbia) Guide to Beer 2015

19,500 How far Kopman will fly, one-way, for Australia’s and Tasmania’s hop harvest this April

120,000 Pounds of hops used annually

1 Schlafly Pale Ale was the brewery’s first beer and remains its most popular.

3,000,000 Pounds of malted barley used annually

19,828,800 12-ounce bottles’ worth of beer produced annually

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the minds behind

THE NEW PUB GRUB Drinking a beer is as old as humankind itself, but why relegate it to just your glass?

Here, three area chefs changing the way we consume beer. – Maureen Zegel

Adam Guess, chef de cuisine at Death in the Afternoon, is making good use of the restaurant’s collaboration with Upper 90 Brewing Co., tucked away in the basement.

“The brewery lends itself to customizing the restaurant’s craft,” said Guess. “What better way to amaze a special party than with a glass of beer made specifically with them in mind?” Watch for Guess’ hearty, whole-grain, German-style Treberbrot bread made with spent grains from the Upper 90 Kölsch. Death in the Afternoon, deathintheafternoonstl.com

Hungry beer drinkers are in luck at Perennial Artisan Ales. Pairings come naturally to head chef Brian Moxey, whose eclectic dishes swimmingly complement Perennial’s releases and often include beer as an ingredient. “I’m in love with our Saison de Lis,” Moxey said. “We’re doing a smoked trout tartine right now that I think is delicious with that beer.” Perennial Artisan Ales, perennialbeer.com

PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Executive chef Andrew Fair of Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. has scoured vintage cookbooks, magazines and videos to augment the brewery and Biergarten’s European-inflected menus. Never one to waste a good brew, Fair uses it in the food – UCBC Apotheosis and Bushelhead cider recently figured into the kitchen’s house-made sausages, and Zwickel is used to batter brandade beignets. And that marvelous rotating poutine? Whatever’s new on tap at the brewery frequently goes into the pan to make the gravy. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., urbanchestnut.com For a beer cheese soup recipe using Apotheosis turn to p. 25 of the main issue.

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BEER-SWEET SYMPHONY

BEER SYRUP 6 OUNCES

BY TED KILGORE

12 oz. hoppy beer, such as an ESB

or IPA

Combine your love for beer and the harder stuff by using homemade beer syrup in a cocktail recipe. Use a big-flavored, hoppy beer, such as an ESB or IPA, to maximize flavor. The syrup complements a galaxy of cocktails, like the Tom Collins, Sazerac, pisco sour and Old-Fashioned, including the reimagined one here.

6 oz. sugar

• In a small saucepan over medium heat, simmer the beer until reduced by half.

• Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. Syrup will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 month.

MALT-TEASEFASHIONED 1 SERVING 2 oz. Spirits of St. Louis Regatta

Bay hopped gin ½ oz. beer syrup 4 dashes Bittermens Hopped

Grapefruit Bitters 2 grapefruit twists

• Combine the gin, beer syrup and bitters in a stirring glass with ice.

Squeeze 1 grapefruit twist over the glass to release the oils, then drop it into the glass. Stir and strain into a rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with the remaining grapefruit twist.

BEER SYRUP PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

SPRING FORECAST / O’Fallon Brewing Co.’s Imperial Stout The O’Fallon crew nailed its Imperial Pumpkin, so expect nothing less of this limited, draft-only, bold brew.

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Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Apotheosis Bright citrus and floral hop notes round out this farmhouse ale, soon making a reappearance at both UCBC locations.

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4 Hands Brewing Co.’s War Hammer Imperial IPA Its delicious hops complexity is so anticipated, the brewery is throwing its fourth annual Lupulin Carnival to celebrate it.

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Springtime in St. Louis: the harbinger of regrowth, renewal and, of course, good beer.

Here are some new local releases to awaken your taste buds this spring. – Katie Herrera

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Morgan Street Brewery’s When Helles Freezes Over This easy-drinking, well-balanced lager is sure to quench your thirst through spring cleaning.

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Perennial Artisan Ales’ Hopfentea Hopfentea is a tart, refreshing, complex seasonal Berliner Weisse – a sure sign spring is here.

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Schlafly Beer – Femme Ferment’s Collaboration Elderflower Maibock Debuting in time for Mother’s Day is a sweet, herbaceous elderflower maibock that marks Femme Ferment’s first anniversary.

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A GUIDE TO THE ST. LOUIS

BEER DRINKER When it comes to drinking beer, it takes all kinds, especially in a city devoted to the stuff. Here are the beer sippers we’ve spotted in our travels through the River City’s beer scene. – Garrett Faulkner

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

The Lederhosen Revivalist Where to spot her Giving unauthorized architecture tours in Soulard at Oktoberfest Listens to “Edelweiss,” on repeat Likely to say (Yodel) Drinks UCBC Schnickelfritz, from a glass boot

The Ph.D. Candidate Wears Trotsky spectacles Watches Twin Peaks, shouting Butlerian critiques at the screen Reads The recipe for Guinness in Ulysses, highlighter in hand Likely to say “How problematic was that Budweiser Super Bowl ad?”

Drinks Ommegang Three Philosophers

Guide to Beer 2015

The Beer Mule Where to spot him Unloading smuggled beer crates from a truck bed behind an abandoned building at 3 a.m.

Reads RateBeer stat sheets Drinks Never. Hoards Side Project and Off Color collaboration La Bière de Fantaisie instead

The Cyclist Where to spot her Opening bottles on her seventh-gear sprocket Wears BrewStrong knockoff bracelets, Lycra Watches The Tour on pay-per-view in July Likely to say “Beer’s Paleo, right?”

Drinks Stiegl Radler, piped from a CamelBak

The Suit Where to spot him Screaming lividly at a teenage valet in Clayton Wears Bespoke two-piece.

How else will he make partner?

Reads The beer bingedrinking scene from The Fountainhead Likely to say “Tom Schlafly’s portfolio? Yeah, I manage that.”

Drinks Bud Light Platinum

The Girl Who Knows More About Beer Than You Where to spot her In front of you in line at iTAP Wears Flats, smirk Watches Your beer selection, with disdain Likely to say “He was nice, but he only drank Guinness.”

Drinks Perennial Barrelaged Sump Coffee Stout

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defy gravity It wasn’t too long ago when the buzz in craft beer was only about highgravity styles. Be it a hoppy Imperial IPA or barrel-aged Imperial stout, bigger was always thought of as better. Luckily, the tide has turned, and sessionable beers are gaining a national foothold. Beers like Founders All Day IPA and Tallgrass Halcyon Wheat showcase big flavor without the high alcohol content, meaning you can sip more and stay standing.

Give these four local low-gravity beers a go. – Eric Hildebrandt The Civil Life Brewing Co. English Pale Ale A benchmark for the style, the 4.2-percent Civil Life EPA is a perfect example of an American brewer working in a classic British style.

Biscuity malts balanced with subtle, grassy hop characteristics make this beer a must-try. Only available on draft. The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com

Excel Brewing Co. Flash Bang A newcomer to the local, lowerABV category, this hop-forward wheat beer combines refreshing taste with delightfully citrusy notes. At 4.6 percent, Flash Bang proves you can pack a hoppy punch in a lower-test brew. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

2nd Shift Brewing Co. Green Bird Gose A style unfamiliar to many, a Gose (pronounced go-suh) is brewed with coriander and a touch of salt. At 4 percent, Green Bird’s doughy malt profile and refreshing tartness round out this gem of a beer. Bridge Tap House, 1004 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.8141, thebridgestl.com

Morgan Street Black Bear The award-winning Schwarzbier will make you rethink dark beer. This 4.6-percent, mediumbodied black lager has a slightly roasty malt character that finishes clean and sweet. The result is a surprise to your senses.

Morgan Street Brewing Co., 721 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.231.9970, morganstreetbrewery.com

DRINKING GAMES There’s a whole room devoted to darts on The Loop. Bring your cricket and around-the-world A-game. Blueberry Hill, 6504 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.727.4444, blueberryhill.com

Guide to Beer 2015

Maplewood’s hippest corner offers pinball and skee-ball in a grown-up setting. Orbit Pinball Lounge, 7401 Hazel Ave., Maplewood, 314.769.9954, Facebook: Orbit Pinball Lounge

Bocce ball is old school, but they take it seriously here. There are courts, tourneys and open play for the non-diehards.

Milo’s Bocce Garden, 5201 Wilson Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.0468, milosboccegarden.com

Two words: giant Jenga. Just don’t let the stack topple onto you. The Pour House, 1933 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.5999, pourhousestl.com

Head to the second floor, where the house stashes its board games, such as Trivial Pursuit, Scattergories and Pictionary. The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com

Play washers on the back patio to your inner Hoosier’s heart’s content.

Southtown Pub, 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.832.9009, southtownpub.com – Meera Nagarajan

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W HE R E T O E X P L OR E NE X T B I E R G A R T E N S

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

BY ERIC HILDEBRANDT

The royale food & spirits

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T

he German tradition of outdoor drinking is rooted in gemütlichkeit, a term associated with good food, good company and – naturally – a beer or two. Traditional outdoor Biergartens have been mainstays in Europe (and St. Louis) since the 19th century, yet their growing popularity and migration across the pond has muddied their definition with a host of imitators. A real Biergarten is an open-air patio space offering beer, food and communal seating. Gather some friends and celebrate St. Louis’ rich heritage of confluences – rivers, people, top-notch suds – while you drink in all that gemütlichkeit.

THE ROYALE FOOD & SPIRITS

3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com The Civil Life’s Biergarten is the nerve center of the brewery’s communal vibe. Large, inviting picnic tables throng with eager beer drinkers, surrounded by flags from some of the world’s premier beer nations. Two outside service windows allow you to grab your pint or half-pint without setting foot inside. Whether you are into board games, books or simply hoisting a glass with friends and neighbors, avail yourself of this inviting urban oasis.

Drink this: The Civil Life English Pale Ale, served on draft (and cask, occasionally). Gentle hop notes and a creamy head are just a few things to look for in beer served this traditionally.

LLYWELYN’S PUB

3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com

4747 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.3003, llywelynspub.net

You’d be hard-pressed to find an outdoor space better suited to community than the Biergarten at The Royale, which owner Steven Smith has developed into a space where people of all stripes gather to share their stories and a mutual love of beer. Shaded in summer, firewarmed in winter, The Royale’s well-heeled beer list features plenty of local suds and some favorites from around the country. You’ll have your pick while you strike up a conversation with your neighbor.

Now almost 40 years young, the original location of Llywelyn’s Pub is one of the area’s most tuckedaway Biergartens. A looming mural in homage to Guinness artist Thomas Gilroy greets imbibers upon arrival, giving way to an outdoor bar that echoes the interior’s Celtic vibe. Umbrellas and the shade of a neighboring brick building make this a perfect spot for a warm St. Louis day.

Drink this: Schlafly Vanilla Milk Stout. Available only at The Royale and Schlafly, it bursts with the flavor of cocoa nibs and vanilla beans.

THE CIVIL LIFE BREWING CO.

Drink this: Schlafly and The Civil Life’s competing Welsh Ales, using the same malt bill but different hops: Admiral and East Kent Golding and Fuggles, respectively. A side-byside tasting is a great way to experience subtle differences in hop notes.

URBAN CHESTNUT BREWING CO. MIDTOWN 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com In 2012, Urban Chestnut added its traditional Bavarian Biergarten to its Midtown location. On a bright sunny day, colorful umbrellas adorn the long communal tables with bench seating.

Eight beers are available at the beer window, served in traditional liter or half-liter vessels.

The white stucco Central States building next door provides a picturesque backdrop to the Biergarten and its adjacent brewery room.

Bavarian to the hilt (including co-owner Florian Kuplent’s birth certificate), you can do no wrong here, whether taking in outdoor movie screenings or traditional polka bands.

Drink this: Zwickel, the lightly hopped, unfiltered UCBC flagship

THE BIERGARTEN AT ANHEUSER-BUSCH 1200 Lynch St., St. Louis, 314.577.2626, budweisertours.com

PHOTO COURTESY OF ANHEUSER-BUSCH INBEV SA

In 2013, the titan of brewing opened its own Biergarten, a celebration of the august history of beer in St. Louis. At 10,000 square feet and with seating for nearly 300, the communal space rivals the size of the Biergartens prevalent in this city during the 19th century. Tasting flights are available, along with a brewmaster’s tasting and glass-raise at 3 p.m. daily, the moment A-B’s brewmasters around the country sample their beer to make sure it is of the highest quality.

the biergarten at anheuser busch Guide to Beer 2015

Drink this: Faust. First brewed in 1884 and resurrected by A-B last year, this robust Vienna lager has notes of toasted caramel, toffee and a mild hop character. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

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LONG LIVE THE KING In 2013, BeerAdvocate named Side Project Brewery one of the top five breweries to watch. Last December, Draft magazine called Side Project’s Saison du Blé one of the top 25 beers in the world. Then, this January, craft beer website RateBeer named Side Project one of the 100 best breweries in the world. It’s time you met Cory King, the brains behind the unparalleled beers made right here in River City.

by ligaya figueras photos by carmen troesser

Guide to Beer 2015

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from

The Side Project Cellar, 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, 314.224.5211, sideprojectbrewing.com

HOMEBREWER

KING’S TOP BEER BOOKS

to

PROFESSIONAL

Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influence of Brewer’s Yeast by Jeff Sparrow

Caring for beer at

T H E S I DE P RO J ECT CE L L A R Cory King, 31, had zero professional brewing experience before he was hired as a brewer for Perennial Artisan Ales in 2011. That fact shouldn’t surprise fans of craft beer, in part because King brewed at home, a hobby he picked up from his brotherin-law. “Homebrewers are some of the most forward-thinking,” said Mike Sweeney, creator and founder of beer website STL Hops and craft beer manager for Lohr Distributing. “They are pushing the envelope, as far as the brewing scene goes. Some (beers) they come up with are the most unique things you’ll try.”

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Cory and Karen King cut no corners when it comes to making and serving beer right. At The Side Project Cellar, their 50seat beer, whiskey and wine tasting room in Maplewood, each of the 24 draft lines can be programmed to three different temperatures. “When you have an Imperial stout served at the same temperature as Bud Light, you’re missing so many things,” explained Cory King. “We’ll never be a high volume account, but there may be other breweries going, ‘I want them to have this special keg because I know it’s going to be treated right.’”

The beer cellar has UV-film on the windows so that light cannot strike the bottles, and those bottles are stored at a proper cellar temperature for proper aging. A lambic is presented in a traditional lambic basket, keeping the bottle tilted on its side so that the yeast doesn’t cloud the glass. These might seem to be minor details, but to the Kings, they are essential. “We put all this care and time into making beer and often when it’s served, there’s no care,” said Cory King. “I don’t cut corners on my beer, so I won’t cut corners on serving it.”

Farmhouse Ales: Culture and Craftsmanship in the Belgian Tradition by Phil Markowski

Brew Chem 101: The Basics of Homebrewing Chemistry by Lee W. Janson

Guide to Beer 2015

Side Project

IN A SNAPSHOT Unlike the Belgian-inspired and experimental beers that Cory King brews for Perennial, his Side Project beers historically have been barrel-aged saisons and sour/wild ales. “Sour beers have been around forever, but as far as American producers, they’re in their infancy. Name another Missouri sour beer? If you did, it’s a special release and it’s once a year,” King said. Side Project brews are more traditional in style and use few ingredients – usually just water, malt, yeast, hops and fruit. “Most of my brewery is focused around the yeast, bacteria, the fermentation side of it and my wild culture,” he explained.

“Wild culture” refers to wild yeast and bacteria – strains harvested and grown outside of a lab. King’s main saison culture started with the standards, like Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus, but it’s been dosed with Missouri wild species he captured from his father’s land in Puxico, a small town in southeast Missouri. “I created a house flavor that is Side Project that’s not replicable by anybody else,” he said. “You can’t just go to a lab and buy what I have.”

Because King’s culture is always growing and changing, he cannot duplicate a brew.

“Most breweries put all these ingredients in, and they get the exact same thing every time. I don’t.” He likened his work to that of a winemaker. “It’s up to me to be more of a blender,” he said.

“He represents, in my mind, the next generation of brewers who are going to carry forth the passion. ... He has staying power, a mature sensibility of beer.”

– ERIKA RIETZ, FOUNDER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, DRAFT MAGAZINE

Guide to Beer 2015

Then there’s the art of aging beer. Every Side Project brew hangs out in oak barrels for months, even years. “I love the nuances oak can add to a beer when done right,” said King, who is also “director of oak” for Perennial. More than 500 barrels – some filled with Perennial brews, the rest with Side Project suds – take up space in two aging rooms at Perennial. These barrels once held rye, bourbon, rum or wines such as pinot noir, chambourcin, vignoles, Norton and chardonnay, the last being the predominant wood King uses for aging Side Project beers. “I like the challenge of putting everything in oak,” he said.

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ASCENDING the

T H R O N E JULY 2011 Cory King is hired as brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales.

“I stalked Phil (Wymore). I read an article about Phil opening a Belgian and barrel-aging brewery. I met Phil and (his wife and Perennial co-founder) Emily, and I was the first hire.” – Cory King

OCTOBER 2012 Perennial Heart of Gold earns silver medal in Other Strong Beer category at the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) in the brewery’s first year.

“It was a great honor. I had the fortune of being with breweries that have won awards at GABF. To have that happen for my brewery … it was really gratifying.

And it was a little bit of a relief to have that monkey off your back. You think: If we never win a medal again, at least we got one.”

– Phil Wymore, co-founder and brewmaster, Perennial Artisan Ales

NOVEMBER 2012 Perennial Barrel-aged Abraxas earns a silver medal in Experimental category at Festival of Wood and Barrel-aged Beers (FoBAB) in Chicago.

JANUARY 2013 Perennial Abraxas garners 100 points in initial BeerAdvocate review.

“That was such important news.

We had this local brewery that

helped to put St. Louis, as far as craft beer goes, on the map.”

– Mike Sweeney, creator and founder, STL Hops and craft beer manager, Lohr Distributing

JANUARY 2013 Perennial Barrel-aged Abraxas is released.

“It was the first time we experienced the lines and hysteria and beer geekiness. We weren’t expecting it. People were like, ‘What’s the limit on it?’ We were like, ‘Why would we have a limit?’ We didn’t expect any of that.” – King

FEBRUARY 2013 Side Project Brewing announced.

King brews using Perennial equipment and space.

AUGUST 2013 Release of first Side Project beers (Saison du Fermier, Brett Project No. 1 and The Origin) “Saison du Fermier is a phenomenal beer. I share a lot of my beer, but it’s getting difficult to share that. That’s the one we keep for Irene (Wan, his fiancee) and myself.” – Sweeney

NOVEMBER 2013 Side Project Fuzzy, an American wild ale fermented in chardonnay barrels with Missouri white peaches, earns gold in Wild Beer (Acidic) category at FoBAB.

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NOVEMBER 2013 Perennial Barrel-aged Abraxas earns gold in Experimental category at FoBAB.

NOVEMBER 2013 BeerAdvocate names Side Project a brewery to watch .

SEPTEMBER 2014 Draft magazine names Perennial and Side Project among 25 breweries to watch.

“The business model is interesting.

He’s the head brewer at Perennial, working within the space at Perennial.

Phil had a feeling Cory was a talented brewer. He showed him the ropes on how to run a brewery and has been supportive of Side Project. It’s a win-win situation and a credit to both of them for coming up with the arrangement.” – Erika Rietz, founder and editor-in-chief, Draft magazine

DECEMBER 2014 Draft magazine calls Side Project Saison du Blé Batch 2 one of the best 25 beers in the world in 2014.

“We blind tasted it. I won’t forget the winelike notes – it’s aged in chardonnay barrels – or the citrus.

The way the Brett was expressing itself was wonderfully harmonious.

It was a way to work with barrels that wasn’t heavy-handed.” – Rietz

JANUARY 2015

“Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River, Tomme Arthur from Port Brewing/The Lost Abbey out of San Diego. Even some of the guys who do sours and funky beers. Cantillon’s Jean-Pierre Van Roy. Cory is doing beers that are of that same quality and caliber. … He is on pace to be one of the most sought-after brewers in the country.”

- M I K E S W E E N E Y , C R E ATO R A N D FO U N D E R , BEER WEBSITE STL HOPS AND CRAFT BEER MANAGER, LOHR DISTRIBUTING

“He had a really great background.

He was already entrenched in this industry: an award-winning homebrewer, bar manager at iTAP Soulard. A great educational background, too (B.S. in chemistry, MBA). He struck me as the type looking at this thing at all angles. He has just a great character, a good work ethic – I thought that he would be a good person to work with on a day-to-day basis.

- PHIL WYMORE, CO-FOUNDER AND BREWMASTER, PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES

RateBeer names Side Project one of the 100 best breweries in the world.

Guide to Beer 2015

“I

BREW

BUY IT

Get these beers while they last at The Side Project Cellar.

Side Project Foedre Beer Sour blonde ale aged in a French Oak foedre

WHAT I LIKE TO

DRINK KING’S BREWING PHILOSOPHY

POWER

RANKINGS

Guide to Beer 2015

1 Ranking of Side Project Saison du Fermier among all saisons in the world on BeerAdvocate (it has held this spot for more than one year)

5 Ranking of Perennial Barrelaged Abraxas among all beers in the world on BeerAdvocate

26 Ranking of Perennial Barrelaged Abraxas among all beers in the world on RateBeer

Side Project La Bière de Fantaisie (Collaboration with Off Color Brewing) Blend of puncheonfermented saisons with Missouri wild yeast

” 62

87

Ranking of Side Project Fuzzy among all beers in the world on BeerAdvocate

Ranking of Side Project Saison du Fermier among all beers in the world on BeerAdvocate

Side Project Grisette Batch No. 2 Wine barrel-aged farmhouse ale with Brettanomyces

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HOPES & DREAMS

“To make a little more beer, but I don’t ever want to be a slave to demand.”

“To experiment with more barrel types.”

Karen King, co-owner, Side Project Brewing and The Side Project Cellar

to karen,

THE QUEEN I try to tell you this all the time, but you are always too humble to accept it, so I figured that typing it out might help. Thank you for all that you have done for Side Project.

you quickly convinced me to reevaluate my career path. I started focusing more on the beer industry and realized that I wanted to be a brewer.

You quietly helped, supported and pushed me to get our business off the ground while you were unable to publicly announce your involvement with it. Because of that, all too often, people miss just how important you are to me and our tiny family-owned and -run businesses.

When you moved on to Deschutes, you supported our family while I kept spending money to grow Side Project. Days and nights were long, tough and hard, but you were always there, helping and supporting.

You were the first to jump into the beer industry, starting as the Missouri sales rep for Goose Island. Because of your love for your job, your passion and your enthusiasm,

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Now we have two businesses, and your role at The Side Project Cellar has become the most important part because The Cellar is the face of our brewery. You don’t bat an eye at managing, operating and owning that place.

You hired an amazing staff, and you have

done much to further beer in St. Louis and the Midwest with your professionalism, integrity and care for what we love – beer.

Without you, I would have grown exhausted a long time ago, and The Side Project Cellar wouldn’t exist. You do everything except brew with me. You are what keeps Side Project and The Side Project Cellar moving forward. You are a brewery consultant, a small business owner, a tasting room manager, a label editor, a boss, a partner and my business teammate.

Thank you for everything, wife.

Cory

“To make more spontaneously fermented beer, the true wild stuff inspired by the lambics and the Gueuzes of Belgium.”

“Five to 10 acres of land near Defiance, Missouri and the Katy Trail. I want to do all my spontaneous fermentation beers out there and have a barrel-aging facility there and live there.

We’d love to find enough land to buy that we could put our barrel warehouse and our house on.”

“To slow down and relax.”

Guide to Beer 2015

Guide to Beer 2015

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BEER ET AL. by kristin schultz

Marriage of beer and wine Schlafly and Chandler Hill Vineyards came together to create a boozy sipper for wine and beer lovers alike. The Chambourcin Saison is aged in wine barrels with chambourcin grapes, offering a taste that’s tart and fruity and a texture that’s wine-like yet carbonated to please the suds crowd.

The first in Schlafly’s new Ibex series of innovative, one-off beers, this saison will be released April 18 at the Schlafly Tap Room – and when it’s gone, it’s gone.

Schlafly Tap Room, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

Choices, choices – to go Quit running around to get a bunch of perfect growlers for an evening soiree. Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar has more than 55 beers on tap from breweries down the street, across the country and around the globe, all available in 64-ounce growlers. Take home a favorite or try something new. Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar, 1004 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.8141, thebridgestl.com

One-hop wonder Celebrate single-hop suds.

Magnum hops, normally used as a bittering agent, take center stage in The Old Bakery Beer Co.’s Magnum Pale Ale. The bold choice of a single-hop pale ale results in a clean, crisp flavor and the floral, grassy aroma we love. The Old Bakery Beer Co., 400 Landmarks Blvd., Alton, Illinois, oldbakerybeer.com

Have a seat Grab some friends, a beer and a seat at one of the custom-built wooden tables and benches at 21st Street Brewers Bar’s new Biergarten, scheduled to open in late March. This may become your new favorite spot to chill – especially on Fridays, when whole-hog roasts and other feasts for a crowd will take place. 21st Street Brewers Bar, 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6969, 21stbrew.com

Beer for dessert Hands off, kids, this float belongs to Mom. The Mad Cow at Stacked Burger Bar pairs Left Hand Nitro Milk Stout and vanilla bean ice cream for a grown-up take on the kiddie classic. Stacked Burger Bar, 7637 Ivory Ave., St. Louis, 314.544.4900, stackedstl.com

Stew about it The Guinness Stew at McGurk’s makes an exquisite vessel in which to enjoy the classic Irish stout. Beerbraised beef tips join carrots and potatoes in a rustic sourdough bread bowl for a soup that satisfies.

John D. McGurk’s, 1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

Sub Zero infused beer The beer infusing tap system at Sub Zero gives your suds a flavor boost by infusing draft beer with fruits, herbs, spices – even coffee. The beer and the infusing ingredients change daily, making every take on a cold brew a new adventure. Sub Zero Vodka Bar, 308 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.1200, subzerovodkabar.com

Taking flight in Red Bud A half-dozen offerings brewed on-site and a handful of guest taps allow you to mix and match your perfect flight of five, 4-ounce pours – all for a wallet-friendly price tag of $5.

Kaskaskia Brewing Co., 105 E. Market St., Red Bud, Illinois, 618.282.2555, kaskaskiabrewing.com

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Guide to Beer 2015

Guide to Beer 2015

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