Sauce Magazine // March 2020

SAINT SANDWICH LOUIS LOVES THE SAINT PAUL

st. paul sandwiches from chinese express p. 19

March 2020 MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M //saucemagazine.com F R E E , MA R CI SAUCE H 2020

M ARCH 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 3 What is your favorite beer right now?

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St. Louis, MO 63103 March 2020

March 2020

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contents M A R C H 2 02 0

editors' picks

15 REVIEW: NEW AND NOTABLE

7 EAT THIS

Il Palato

by michael renner

Black trumpet scarpinocc at Sardella

last bite

by adam rothbarth

28 STUFF TO DO by erin killion

8 HIT LIST 3 places to try this month

by adam rothbarth

30 WHAT I DO

10 NIGHT MOVES

William Pauley of Confluence Kombucha

by lauren healey

The manifesto

by adam rothbarth

32 LANDMARK

13 A SEAT AT THE BAR

Carl’s Drive-In

Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by matt berkley

features 19

SAINT LOUIS LOVES SAINT PAUL SANDWICHES by matt sorrell

COVER DETAILS Saint Sandwich Find out why St. Louis loves the St. Paul sandwich on p. 19.

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Guide to Beer

23

OFF THE CLOCK

compiled by catherine klene Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce contributing writer Matt Sorrell and The Midwestern’s Ben Welch talk about the St. Paul sandwich’s long history in St. Louis. Don’t miss our monthly Hit List segment for the must-try new restaurants in March.

Learn how Abbey Spencer went from homebrewer to Third Wheel’s head brewer and a college instructor teaching the next generation of St. Louis beer on p. 15. Flip the magazine over to see the Guide to Beer.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

idaho trout at il palato, p. 15

March 2020

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Eat This

The black trumpet scarpinocc at Sardella is evidence that magic is real and executive chef Brian Moxey and pastaiolo Giovanni Brex are wizards. This handmade pasta dish takes much of its brilliant color and flavor from the dehydrated, pulvarized mushrooms that are incorporated in its dough, which is filled with misochestnut ricotta and served with brown butter, gremolata and fresh Parmesan. It’s a rhapsodic exercise in northern Italian cooking. A seasonal dish, this one won’t be at Sardella for long, but we can’t wait to see what new spell Moxey and Brex will cast next.

E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

SARDELLA 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, sardellastl.com

March 2020

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

hit list

3 new places to try this month

PHOTO BY ADAM ROTHBARTH

TAKASHIMA RECORDS PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

IN THE GROVE

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March 2020

ROAD CREW COFFEE Opening quietly in November, South City’s newest cafe snuck up on us – and we’re so glad it did.

Incorporating a sleek bike repair shop fueled by Blueprint Coffee, this cool concept from co-owners Patrick Woodling, Andi Zekthi and Christopher Green is worth a visit regardless of your preferred mode of transportation. Choose from a number of Blueprint brews or a rotating roast from guests like Temple Coffee Roasters and Parlor Coffee for your cortado or latte.

While sipping, enjoy a pastry from Whisk or a doughnut from Donut Drive-In. Road Crew also hosts events – we’ve already started training for their group rides, which will take cyclists on journeys that end at local pizzerias, breweries and more.

3172 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.260.1536, roadcrew.cc

PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH

STORMING CRAB From this restaurant’s name, it’s unclear whether you’re going to be storming the crab or whether you’re supposed to be the subject of the crab storm. Regardless, you’re in for a perfect storm of crab and other delights when you visit. We enjoyed reeling in tasty hush puppies and a platter of delicious seafood bread topped with a cheesy crab mixture to start; then, we charted a course that led us to a massive, customizable crab house Cajun boil – ordered spicy, of course – that included potatoes, sausage, shrimp, corn and snow crab.

1242 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.821.9888, stormingcrabs.com

March 2020

TAKASHIMA RECORDS Takashima Records is almost prohibitively cool. Almost. The Grove’s new Japanese whisky and sake bar will pull you in with its alluring mix of low lighting, beautiful, dark wood, walls of records and refurbished vintage stereo equipment. Beverage director Tai Nalewajko offers up an expertly curated list of spirits, as well as wonderful cocktails like the scotchand vermouth-based, soy-laced Rob Gordon. Chef Chris Krzysik’s small plates, like the winter caprese and the potato salad, are inviting and clean, while the delicious tuna mayo onigiri will prove to be a hearty foundation for the many drinks you’re sure to enjoy.

4095 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.571.9133, takashimarecords.com

clockwise from top: the sashimi platter at takashima records; the fashionichi, takashima’s take on an old-fashioned; beverage director tai nalewajko

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

WHAT

ABOUT

MUSIC?

Are you an album person or a playlist person? If you’re a set it and forget it Spotify Radio fan, then do that. Perhaps you have a record player you want to dust off. Ah! Maybe now you see yourself drinking a Sazerac while spinning that Big Star vinyl you never listen to anymore. Won’t your friends be impressed? See, it’s all coming together.

NOW

IT’S

CLEAN

TIME

YOUR

TO

PLACE.

Think about every detail. Show off a bit – pull out the nice plates and glasses, light fresh candles. You are creating your paradise here, and when people come to your house, they’re going to feel that.

T H E

NIGHT MOVES M A N I F E S T O

by Adam Rothbarth // photo by izaiah johnson

IT MIGHT SEEM STRANGE to kick off a new nightlife column with an essay about staying in, but before we explore all the possibilities St. Louis nights have to offer, we need to establish a baseline – an understanding of what’s really at stake when you go out. Because going out actually starts with how you stay in.

Stick with me.

Night Moves is about more than giving bar recommendations. It’s meant to encourage you to think about how you’re engaging with those spaces, how you’re fitting them into your life. In order to really enjoy going out, you first have to envision what you want to be doing. If you don’t, how can you make sense of a bad night or understand why a great night was great?

To help you distill your nightlife desires, here’s a little homework assignment: Plan your perfect night in. It doesn’t matter

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whether that’s a big party, a small group of core homies, a date night or an evening with your family or roommates – deciding is part of the exercise.

You’re about to have the best night. Who do you want to spend it with?

THINK

ABOUT

YOUR

.

What are they? Go get a few bottles of your favorite wine or a couple six-packs of the beer that lights your palate up like a dance floor – sharing those can be so fulfilling. If it’s a cocktail, do you know how to make it? If not, it’s time to learn. This is your moment!

FAV O R I T E

DRINKS

IF

COOKING,

YOU’RE

serve your greatest hits. If you’re bringing in food, hit up your favorite takeout spot. Or, if you really trust your friends, make it a potluck. Same with snacks – your table should be a luxurious spread of your most beloved bites, whether that’s Doritos or foie gras.

You aren’t alone in this exercise – we did it too. I invited the Sauce team to my apartment, asking everyone to bring one dish and also a drink if they felt inclined. I served a symphony of things I love: Negronis, blistered green beans with creamy tahini, fresh bread, pistachios and peanut M&Ms. We listened to J Dilla, John Coltrane and Oscar Peterson. It was a wonderful evening.

How can throwing a party improve your nightlife? Well, my hope is that it will stoke the fire within – that flame that burns a little brighter when you’re having a fabulous time. Maybe you’ll become a little more attuned to what you care about.

When you go out, you should ride as if you were throwing the party yourself. That isn’t to say you shouldn’t also be open to compromise or suggestion.

But if you really know what your boundaries and inclinations are, you will have a good time regardless.

This column is about having fun.

Yes, we’re going to tell you about some cool places, but ultimately nightlife is about you. When you go out, are you rolling with your best people, doing the things you love to do? If you are, that’s awesome. If not, let’s fix it.

Welcome to Night Moves.

March 2020

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

A SEAT AT THE BAR

TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

Created in New Orleans and first published in 1937, the Vieux Carre blends our love for historic cocktails with some of our favorite spirits. We like to modernize the ratio of the ingredients to give more kick to the base.

In an ice-filled pitcher, combine 1 ounce Rittenhouse rye, 1 ounce Camus VS Cognac, ½ ounce Punt e Mes vermouth, ½ ounce Benedictine, 2 dashes Angostura bitters and 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters. Strain over fresh ice and garnish with a lemon twist.

Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop

Logboat Brewing Co.’s Rollin’ Pro is an IPA brewed with a unique combination of pale and wheat malts, El Dorado and Citra hops, perfectly balanced by oats. With a pungent hop aroma and a hint of citrus, the mouthfeel is rich and showcases ripe tropical fruit and melon. Rollin’ Pro pours pale golden with a white head that laces the glass beautifully. Sixpack: $10. Craft Beer Cellar, 5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.222.0333, craftbeercellar.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

logboat's rollin' pro has a hint of citrus and tropical fruit

March 2020

Missouri springtime is perfect to enjoy 2018 Noboleis Vineyards Dry Rosé – in the style of the great pinks of the world, but made just down the road. The comforting flavors of this neon pink beauty are reminiscent of those intensely flavorful tiny strawberries that start showing up in a few weeks. With just the right amount of acidity to balance the fruit, it pairs perfectly with anything from light pasta to pizza to salads. $14. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

idaho trout at il palato

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

il palato

BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON

With Il Palato, Michael Del Pietro Jr. has returned to Clayton and to the casual elegance of Portabella, his early ’90s debut as a young restaurateur fresh from culinary school. It offers something different than Del Pietro’s, his recent reincarnation of the St. Louis restaurant royalty’s family restaurant, and the other places his group currently owns: Via Vino Enoteca, Tavolo V, Babbo’s Spaghetteria and two locations of Sugo’s Spaghetteria.

Rather than the old-school, cheesy red sauce dishes that define St. Louis Italian-

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NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 3

American food, Il Palato looks to the lighter fare of southern Italy and the Mediterranean for inspiration: fish and seafood, seasonal pastas, broth-based sauces and in-season vegetables – no stuffed shells, brick-thick lasagna, thincrust pizza or chicken parmigiano, and certainly no Provel or toasted ravioli.

Craving that famous Del Pietro salad?

Try one of his other restaurants.

But if salad must be had, you can do no better than the Sicilian with verdant baby greens and chopped egg glistening in tarragon vinaigrette, sprinkled with ricotta salata and crowned with a grilled artichoke heart. Thin slices of prosciutto provide salty, acidic hits. Pairing it with an antipasto like the carote can make for a satisfying meal, especially with a glass of cellar-temp Chianti or Vernaccia. It’s hard to imagine a carrot being substantial, but this fat specimen is roasted to coax its natural sweetness and comes nestled in a hefty red wine-vegetable stock demi-glace. A layer of pistachio crumble and dollops of creamy, whipped ricotta added the final crunchy, contrapuntal note.

Follow the semi-traditional Italian meal structure off the seasonal menu and you’ll press on to the pasta course, available in primi or secondi portions. If you plan to continue with a full entree, the smaller primi will suffice. Regardless, do not skip the kitchen’s selection of seven outstanding house-made pastas.

Not much is more comforting on a cold evening than a plate of fat ribbons of pappardelle drenched in a thick, meaty pork ragu fragrant with fennel and a dollop of lemon ricotta melting into a velvety sauce. Except maybe gnocchi. The earthy-sweet dumplings were made of squash and oozed with pungent Fontina with accents of candied walnuts, shaved Brussels sprouts and spiced honey.

A dish of cavatelli is always a good idea, especially when the ridged, hotdog bun-like noodles hold onto such a deeply flavored sauce as the mushroom and pancetta ragu I devoured during one visit. The pasta’s ricotta dough produced a lighter tasting

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from left, executive chef jordan knight, operating partner ryan french and sous chef andrea barone

dish. Then there was seafood linguine: a mound of silky, perfectly al dente twirled noodles loaded with rock shrimp, bay scallops and clams redolent with white wine and garlic with bits of cured egg yolk. the bar at il palato

Listed on the menu as the piatti course, four of the six large plates highlighted the kitchen’s skill with fish and seafood. Count on the fish of the day being supremely fresh, as was the halibut one evening. This deliciously simple protein-vegetable-starch trio consisted of a 6- to 8-ounce portion of the smooth, flakey fish in a roasted garlic-chive vin, one roasted leek, a couple herb-crusted potato halves and sprinkle of mushroom duxelle. The premium price tag (market priced at $39) didn’t surprise as much as the slap-dash presentation.

I found such rushed, messy plating surprising – especially in a restaurant of this caliber commanding top dollar.

On a less busy evening, Idaho trout lay across a bed of farro risotto laced with briny capers. The chewy texture of the grain played against the fish’s crispy skin and delicate flesh bite after perfect bite. A thin fennel frond pesto and slivers of red chilies imparted hints of licorice and heat without overwhelming the dish’s simplicity.

Capesante captured several flavors of the season: Four plump, meaty diver scallops, skillfully seared to medium-rare,

intermingled with thick-sliced, seared parsnips in a creamy pillow of parsnip puree. Salsa verde provided a subtle tart, earthy flavor, again showing the kitchen’s mastery of balancing flavors. I greatly appreciated the bartender’s knowledge of wine and food pairing when he, thankfully, recommended a soave by the glass with the scallops, and not a commonly suggested, but clashing, chardonnay.

Desserts deserve your attention. A pan of zeppole, for instance, was perfect for sharing: six warm golf ball-sized, light and puffy lemon ricotta doughnuts in a sugar glaze and dusted with powdered sugar. You won’t want to share any of your silky, custardy panna cotta, topped here with a smooth apple butter-like compote and a lightly sweetened milk crumble for crunch.

As its beautiful white marble bar conveys, Il Palato is more sleek and minimalist than any of Del Pietro’s many other restaurants.

The space has been brightened and opened up, while maintaining the tucked-in feel of its predecessor, Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar. Light gray velvet chairs and banquettes, a striking recessed ceiling and warm lighting further express Il Palato’s subtle elegance despite the distracting Top40 soundtrack during my visits. The wellheeled – young and old who know how to stylishly sport that downplayed moneyed look – still gather here to sip and sup.

il palato Where 222 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.224.5331, ilpalatoclayton.com Don’t-Miss Dishes Trout, fennelbraised pork ragu pappardelle Vibe Casually elegant with a sleek, modernist motif that’s remarkably relaxed and inviting Entree Prices $13 to $36 When Mon. to Fri. – 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Fri. – 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4:30 to 10:30 p.m; Sat. – 5 to 10:30 p.m.

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SAINT SANDWICH LOUIS LOVES THE SAINT PAUL

B y M at t S o r r e l l / / p h otos by j u l i a c a l l e o

st. paul sandwiches from chinese express

March 2020

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rom Provel to T-ravs, the St. Louis culinary fixation I’ve had the hardest time wrapping my head around is the St. Paul sandwich.

Unverified local legend has it that a Chinese-American chef in the city invented the St. Paul in the 1940s to please Midwestern palates. He put an egg foo young patty (egg, bean sprouts, onion, flour) between a couple of pieces of white bread slathered with mayo, topped it with lettuce, tomato and pickles and named it after his hometown of St. Paul, Minnesota.

I thought the white bread would immediately become soggy and distressed from the mayo and the grease from the egg foo young. The lettuce, tomato and pickle surely played the most cursory of supporting roles. But I kept hearing folks rhapsodizing about this seemingly impossible sandwich.

The Midwestern executive chef Ben Welch has been eating them since he was a kid. “I’m a sandwich guy. I’m all about the handheld, so [St. Pauls] fit me,” he said. “On paper, it makes no sense. Who wants eggs and mayo and lettuce and tomato together on white bread? But it works.”

“We sell a lot of them,” said Qui Tran, chef and co-owner of Mai Lee. “It’s like a cult thing.”

Tran was introduced to the St. Paul in the 1980s at his family’s restaurant, China Wall, in Jennings, and for him the sandwich is a comforting reminder of days past.

“I mean, a fried egg patty on

white bread?” he said. “Let’s do it!”

“It’s one of many hangover cures for me,” said restaurateur Kristin Liu, whose family owned Chinese Gourmet Restaurant in Florissant from 1984 until it closed in 2017.

She prefers a ham St. Paul or a “special” with all of the available proteins piled on. “It’s greasy and simple. I’m really top: qui tran of mai lee, bottom: chinese express opposite page: st. paul sandwich from mai lee

nostalgic about it. It’s basically an omelet sandwich.”

Talking to these chefs finally got me off my culinary high horse to try my first St. Paul – and then another, and a few more after that. And now I get it. The piping hot egg combined with the sweet, fluffy white bread is a fast-track back to childhood. It needs to be eaten while the egg foo young is hot off the grill before the bread gets gummy. In other words, you have to wolf your food down – exactly what your mother told you not to do.

Over the years, the sandwich has evolved somewhat, and most places offer variations topped with everything from pork belly to shrimp. This is where the sandwich really comes into its own – as a perfect blank canvas for experimentation. My favorite St. Paul so far is the

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Special at Chinese Express in Richmond Heights. It’s topped with an amalgam of chicken, roast pork and shrimp.

Welch said the St. Paul is particularly popular in African American communities. He said the chop suey restaurant standard is a part of St. Louis black culture – possibly because many Chinese immigrants have opened restaurants in predominantly black, lowincome neighborhoods, and the St. Paul provides a substantial meal for not a lot of money. “The worse neighborhood it is, the better the sandwich,” he said.

His favorite version is the pork St. Paul from Lisa’s Chop Suey in

Jennings. “I just grew up going to that one – that’s where the family went, it’s nostalgic. It’s delicious. It’s not healthy – it’s just a good fucking sandwich.”

March 2020

Mai Lee

TRY IT March 2020

Skip all the way to the back of Mai Lee’s expansive menu to find the selection of St. Pauls. I have a soft spot for the original version, which was the first St. Paul I ever tried, but there are other variations available including flank steak and barbecue pork.

8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Richmond Heights, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com

Bo Fung Chinese Kitchen

When I asked my social media mavens about the best St. Paul, Bo Fung was mentioned more than any other place. At this South City hole in the wall, an original St. Paul will only set you back $3.

6810 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.8216, Facebook: Bo Fung Chinese Kitchen

Chinese Express

Located near the intersection of Clayton Road, Skinker Boulevard and McCausland Avenue, this odd little building is home to my favorite St. Paul so far: The Special features a mix of chicken, roast pork and shrimp.

7022 Clayton Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.781.8898/314.781.0041, chineseexpressmo.com

Lisa’s Chop Suey

North St. Louis is a home to countless chop suey restaurants.

Ben Welch grew up going to this Jennings St. Paul spot known for its giant, insanely affordable sandwiches. Even the Special St. Paul is less than $3.

8970 Jennings Station Road, Jennings, 314.868.8041, Facebook: Lisa’s Chop Suey

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OFF THE CLAM LINGUINE

recipes compiled by catherine klene photos by carmen troesser

CLOCK 6 easy recipes chefs make at home

March 2020

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Chef Pantry Staples

EGGS

Not everything has to be made from scratch. Here’s what chefs always have on hand in the kitchen.

amd

Chili Onion Crunch SweetArt chef and co-owner Reine Bayoc swears by this blend of dried garlic and peppers in olive oil from Trader Joe’s. $4. Trader Joe’s, various locations, traderjoes.com

rec ipe on p. 26

Soulard Spice Blend Culture Food Group chef and coowner Ceaira Jackson said this smoky blend is perfect for everything from eggs to potatoes to steak. 4 ounces: $3.50; 8 ounces: $6. Soulard Spice Shop, Soulard Farmers Market, 730 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.783.2100, stores.soulardspiceshop.com

RICE

The Ginger People Sushi Ginger Olive + Oak chef Jesse Mendica will only buy this brand of pickled ginger for its impeccable flavor. She’s also a fan of The Ginger People’s Sweet Ginger Chile sauce and Soy Vay teriyaki sauce. $3. Whole Foods, various locations, wholefoodsmarket.com JFC International Furikake Louie chef Sean Turner always keeps a shaker of furikake – a dry Japanese seasoning blend that usually includes seaweed and sesame seeds – in his kitchen. $3.50. Jay’s International Foods, 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, Facebook: Jay International Food Podravka Ajvar or Euro Gourmet Romanian Zacusca

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Ajvar At Balkan Treat Box, chef and coowner Loryn Nalic makes her own ajvar, but for an at-home shortcut, she recommends these two brands of the roasted red pepper spread. $4 to 6.50. Global Foods, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com March 2020

Miso

SOUP

CLAM LINGUINE

Courtesy of Culture Food Group’s Ceaira Jackson

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Freshly grated Parmesan, for garnish (optional)

• Add the lemon juice and cooked pasta and toss until combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

• Serve with lemon wedges and garnish with Parmesan and parsley.

• Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Cook linguine until al dente, 2½ to 3 minutes for fresh and 9 minutes for dry. Strain and toss with butter to prevent the noodles from sticking. Set aside.

• Meanwhile, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, parsley and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.

• Add the clams, white wine and Madeira. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook until the clams open, about 7 to 10 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.

Reprinted with permission from Cultured: A Book of Cocktails & Cuisine

4 TO 6 SERVINGS Jackson said those leery of cooking shellfish can swap the clams for mushrooms or chicken.

12 oz. linguine, preferably fresh 4 Tbsp. butter, plus more for noodles 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 1 lb. fresh littleneck clams, scrubbed ½ cup dry white wine 1 oz. Madeira Juice of 1 lemon, plus lemon wedges for garnish

March 2020

MISO SOUP

Courtesy of Louie’s Sean Turner 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Turner said he makes this dish at home because it’s nourishing, quick –and doesn’t use a lot of dishes.

4 to 6 small squares nori, divided Soy sauce, to taste 1 bunch scallions, chopped 8 oz. firm tofu, diced 8 oz. shaved shiitake or beech mushrooms • Bring the water to boil in a kettle or pot over high heat.

• While the water heats, add 1 to 2 tablespoons miso, 1 nori square and a dash of soy sauce to each serving bowl.

• Pour 1 to 2 ounces boiling water into each bowl and stir to dissolve the miso. Add the scallions, tofu and mushrooms, fill each bowl with the remaining water, stir and season to taste.

6 to 7½ cups water 4 to 6 Tbsp. white miso paste, divided

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VEGETABLE FRIED RICE WITH FROZEN EGG

Courtesy of Vicia’s Michael Gallina 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Gallina freezes eggs overnight, then thaws them before frying. He said the white remains loose and fries normally, but the yolk is putty-like, a texture Gallina and his wife, co-owner Tara Gallina, refer to as “egg butter.”

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 cup diced bacon or pancetta 2 cups shiitake mushrooms, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 3 cups cold cooked rice, preferably 1 to 2 days old 2 cups broccoli, cut into small florets with peeled and diced stems 2 cups sugar snap peas or snow peas, cut into ¼-inch pieces 1 Tbsp. rice vinegar, plus more as needed Kosher salt, to taste Butter, to fry the eggs 4 to 6 eggs, frozen in shell and thawed in the refrigerator overnight Sea salt, to taste • Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and saute until crisp, about 3 minutes.

• Add the mushrooms and saute until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the spring onions and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a plate and set aside, leaving the fat in the pan.

• Return the pan to the stove and increase the heat to high. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan.

Once very hot and just beginning to smoke, add the rice and saute until the edges are light brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

• Fold in the broccoli, peas and the reserved onion-bacon mixture. Saute until the peas and broccoli are al dente, about 3 minutes. Remove the

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pan from heat and season with the rice vinegar and salt, to taste.

• Spoon the rice mixture into serving bowls.

• Return the pan to the stove over medium-high heat and melt enough butter to coat the bottom. Crack 2 to 3 eggs into the pan and fry 2 to 3 minutes, basting the egg whites with the butter until they are set. Season the yolks with sea salt to finish. Top each bowl with an egg. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Serve warm.

CHICKEN RICE SOUP

Courtesy of Billie-Jean’s Ny Vongsaly 4 TO 6 SERVINGS This soup is Vongsaly’s comfort food – it reminds him of home. The chicken and golden garlic add flavor and richness, and the ginger and cilantro lighten it.

6 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed 2 cups cooked jasmine rice 2 cups cooked, shredded dark-meat chicken 1 to 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. julienned ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 green onions, chopped 4 to 5 sprigs fresh cilantro, chopped • In a large pot, bring the chicken broth to boil over high heat. Add the rice and chicken and boil 12 to 15 minutes, adding more broth as needed to thin the soup, if desired.

• Meanwhile, add the oil to a skillet over high heat. When the oil starts to smoke, add the garlic and saute until golden brown and crispy, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Stir the oil and garlic into the soup, along with the ginger. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

• Evenly divide the soup among serving bowls and garnish with the green onions and cilantro.

CARIBBEAN BEANS AND RICE Courtesy of Nudo House’s Marie-Anne Velasco

and 2 white onions, then add to a food processor and pulse until combined. Add 4 1.41-oz. packets of Goya Sazon con Achiote Culantro seasoning, if desired.

4 TO 6 SERVINGS Velasco said this budget-conscious recipe, which she learned while living in the Dominican Republic, helped her save for her first home.

EGGS AND RICE

1 to 2 bunches cilantro 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 small onion, chopped ¼ cup fresh, frozen or store-bought sofrito* 1 15-oz. can black or pinto beans, drained 1 tsp. cumin 1 tsp. coriander 1 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. turmeric 2 Tbsp. white vinegar Wedges of fresh lime, for serving Steamed white rice, for serving

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

• Remove the cilantro leaves from the stems and reserve the leaves for garnish. Chop the stems and set aside.

• Warm the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.

Add the sofrito and cilantro stems and saute until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

• Add the beans, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic powder, black pepper and turmeric and saute 2 more minutes.

• Fill the empty bean can halfway with water and add it to the pot. Add the vinegar and simmer 10 minutes.

• Serve over the steamed white rice.

Garnish with the squeezed lime juice and reserved cilantro leaves.

Courtesy of Olive + Oak’s Jesse Mendica

For Mendica, this is the perfect quick meal: One skillet and great for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a quick snack.

1 Tbsp. butter 1 Tbsp. sesame oil 4 to 6 eggs 1 cup frozen peas 4 cups cooked white rice ¼ cup water ½ cup sunflower seeds 2 Tbsp. The Ginger People pickled ginger 1 handful crunchy greens like spinach, pea tendrils or sprouts • In a large skillet or wok, warm the butter and sesame oil over medium heat.

• Add the eggs to the skillet and use a rubber spatula to barely scramble and fold until they are just cooked, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Push the eggs to the cooler edge of the skillet or wok and raise the heat to high.

• Add the peas to the skillet. When the peas start to sizzle, add the rice and toss everything together.

• When the mixture starts to sizzle, stir in the water, pickled ginger, sunflower seeds and salt, to taste. Let steam 2 minutes, them remove from heat.

• To serve, top each portion with greens.

*Velasco always has sofrito in her freezer stored in 8-ounce deli containers. Roughly chop 2 red bell peppers, 2 green bell peppers and 2 yellow bell peppers, 3 bunches cilantro, a handful of garlic cloves

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with frozen Egg r eci p e o n p. 26

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

MARCH

BY ERIN KILLION

International Food Festival March 7 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., Forsyth School, 5. N. Skinker Blvd., St. Louis, 314.283.5647, Facebook: 2020 International Food Festival Eat around the world without leaving St. Louis, then pay it forward at this sixth annual festival. Bring a nonperishable food item or a financial donation for local food banks, and enjoy free samples of an array of cuisines. Try coconut rice or chickpea-potato curry from India or some Spanish rice and beans. Admission is free. Dessert is available for purchase.

Eckert’s Wine & Food Festival March 7 and 8 – noon to 6 p.m., Eckert’s Country Store & Farms, 951 S. Green Mount Road, Belleville, 618.233.0513, eckerts.com Head to Eckert’s Farm for this 10th annual event. Enjoy live music while sipping on unlimited samples of over 30 types of wine and craft beer. You can also watch cooking demonstrations with chefs from Mission Taco Joint, Juniper and Beast Craft BBQ Co. and enjoy boozy ice cream tastings with Clementine’s Creamery. Tickets available online and at the door.

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Starch of March: Potato Tasting

Maplewood Coffee Crawl

March 11 – 5:30 to 9 p.m., Bulrush, 3307 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.449.1208, Facebook: Starch of March: Potato Tasting Join the Missouri Botanical Garden and Sachs Museum for one of three seatings at this potato-based presentation at Bulrush with chef-owner Rob Connoley. While enjoying three courses of small bites and drink samples, learn about the museum’s current exhibit, “Potato (Solanum Tubersum): Apple of the Earth.” Each cocktail and snack is potato-based, and the exhibition features the history and significance of this versatile tuber. Tickets available online.

March 21 – 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., The Blue Duck, 2661 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, St. Louis, 314.646.3607, Facebook: Maplewood Coffee Crawl Choose between morning and afternoon sessions to experience all the caffeinated goodness Maplewood has to offer on this self-guided tour. Check in at The Blue Duck, then sample coffee at Foundation Grounds, Mystic Valley and more. Mingle with local roasters and watch demos. There’s also a java cream brownie at Great Harvest Bread Co., and coffee-cardamom shortbread cookies at Mauhaus Cat Café. Tickets available online.

Dogtown Irish Festival

Cheese and Cider Ball

March 17 – 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Dogtown, St. Louis, 636.486.6431, dogtownunited.org Head to one of St. Louis’ oldest Irish neighborhoods for this annual festival, which features family attractions like face painting and Irish dance performances, along with plenty of food and drink vendors. Seek out some luck of the Irish when the parade kicks off at 11 a.m., then stop in at one of the many bars and restaurants in the area, like Felix’s Pizza Pub, Tamm Avenue Bar and Seamus McDaniel’s. Once the afternoon rolls around, listen to live music from Rusty Nail.

March 28 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Brick River Cider, 2000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.224.5046, brickrivercider.com Sample cheeses from all around the world paired with 20 different ciders from 10 craft cidermakers, like Cidrerie Milton and Milk & Honey Ciders. You can also indulge in items for purchase from the specialty menu like grilled cheese sandwiches, poutine and cheesy grits, along with pulled pork, a spinach salad and a vegan mushroom risotto. Tickets available online and at the door.

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

to open this dream of mine?’ We stumbled into

this space, which was exactly what we needed. The Grove is a good neighborhood in the crossroads of St. Louis.”

“Three months after we opened, on New Year’s Eve 2016, I locked up and walked to my car out front on the street, then woke up in the hospital. That’s

all I remember. Four kids were running from the cops and slammed into me at 70 mph. I had 11 broken ribs, my diaphragm ruptured, and my scapula was completely smashed. I was in the hospital for two weeks.”

“I have four titanium ribs now. … The shop was

Confluence Kombucha 4507 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3059, confluencekombucha.com

only closed two days because my business partner, Julienne Villarini, opened it up, just with a limited menu. She really helped me through the recovery. I was back three weeks after the accident, but I still live with chronic pain.”

“As a society, we’re kind of sick and don’t really care

PA U L E Y

When Confluence Kombucha owner William Pauley began home-brewing fermented tea about 10 years ago in a quest to heal his stomach ulcers, he had no idea how it would culminate.

After a few stints at local restaurants, he opened his storefront in September 2016 and began selling “booch,” along with a limited menu of health-focused eats like the Jarrahdale pumpkin salad, which made our list of dope salads last summer. Here’s how the creative force behind Confluence Kombucha went from dishwasher to owner. – Lauren Healey

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“I was still brewing kombucha out of my house that whole time. I did

My buddy got me on as a dishwasher at Maggiano’s.”

15,000 bottles the first five years.

I delivered to houses and works.

I’d pick up bottles, wash them and fill them back up. It was mostly friends in the beginning, but I had a post up on Craigslist, so every now and again, someone would message me for a scoby, and we’d meet in a Walmart parking lot or something.”

“In one week, my whole life turned. I’d always liked

cooking but never thought about it as a career. After six months at basically boot camp for what was to come, I got the last cook position under chef Chris Bork at Blood & Sand. I immersed myself in that detail-oriented culture; I got to see all those techniques – all that passion. It was inspiring.”

“Around the five-year mark, I was like, ‘Alright, what is it going to take

“It’s definitely not a cure-all but, depending

on other foods you ingest, it can aid your digestion pretty quickly. For a category to grow as much as it has, it’s pretty phenomenal.” “[Washington University] called me recently out of the blue, and now we’re on tap at the cafe in their library. That’s a

big move for us. Kaldi’s [Coffee] basically got made that way.”

March 2020

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD

W I L L I A M

“When I graduated from Webster [University], I couldn’t find a job.

about the preventive side when it comes to health. People are starting to notice that, and that awakening is needed.”

March 2020

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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

CARL'S DRIVE-IN

BY M AT T B E R KLE Y

On Saturdays, it’s standing-room only at Carl’s Drive-In. The cozy institution on Manchester Road is wildly popular even after 60 years in business. From open to close, a steady flow of patrons cycle in and out at the 16-seat counter.

A staff of four scrambles to prep roadside diner classics, work the grill and handle nonstop phone calls and takeout orders.

The building, which began as a service station in 1918, became Carl’s in 1959 and offered curbside service until 1969. The current owner, Mike Franklin, has remained faithful to the original menu, which includes beloved staples like house-made root beer (using the original IBC recipe), Curly-Q hot dogs and old-school milkshakes. On an average day, the well-worn flattop turns out 400 to 500 smash patties for Carl’s famous double cheeseburgers.

The reason Carl’s still has a line out the door, according to Franklin, a loyal patron of Carl’s since the early 1980s, is its refusal to take customers for granted. “Maintaining that consistency and that discipline to the quality of the product, as well as the atmosphere has been the key,” he said. For Franklin, the most rewarding thing about owning the restaurant has been getting to know families who have been eating there for generations.

PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

9033 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.961.9652, carlsdrivein.com

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third wheel head brewer abbey spencer, p. 15

GUIDE TO

BEER GuideST. to Beer I SAUCE I1 LO2020 U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // F Rsaucemagazine.com E E , G U I D E TO B E EMAGAZINE R 2020

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Guide to Beer 2020

Guide to Beer 2020

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to have and to hold

Ayinger Brewery Celebrator Doppelbock

Rockwell Beer Co. Passing Clouds Belgian-style witbier

by adam rothbarth // photo by izaiah johnson Picture this: You’re laying out at the pool with your friends. “What’s that beer?” someone asks. Everyone stops what they’re doing and looks at you.

“Oh, this?” you reply. “It’s just a Street Sodie from 4 Hands and Shared Brewing.” Everyone is blown away.

4 Noses Brewing Co. Mountain Wave American ale

“Damn, that is a great looking can,” your other friend says. “It looks dope.” You already knew this.

It was part of the plan.

Or maybe it’s the Stillwater Artisanal Extra Dry sake-style saison. “That’s beautiful,” your friend says. “What an amazing can.

Is it as good as it looks?” You take a long swig and feel the sun shining on your face.

Prairie Artisan Ales All Y’all hazy IPA

Fat Orange Cat Brew Co./Decadent Ales Baker’s Dozen Imperial stout

“It’s such a good beer,” you reply.

“Very refreshing and light.” You are now your group’s queen or king of selecting beers.

We know how it feels, on a cool spring afternoon, to hold a gorgeous can or bottle with a label full of alluring colors, awesome fonts and breathtaking designs.

Here are some of our favorites to be seen drinking.

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Off Color Brewing Very Very Far Belgian-style ale

Guide to Beer 2020

Center Ice Brewery Old Arena lager

Six Mile Bridge Beer Bavarian Hefeweizen

TO ØL 1 Ton of...

Pineapple Sour Ale

2nd Shift Brewing Co./Speciation Artisan Ales Beer #1 wild ale

Stillwater Artisanal Extra Dry sake-style saison

4 Hands Brewing Co./Shared Brewing Street Sodie double dry-hopped hazy IPA

Guide to Beer 2020

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stout family tree

perennial artisan ale's

by adam rothbarth

Perennial Artisan Ales has been building a blockbuster stout program since opening in 2011. Its first official venture into the dark, roasty beer was Abraxas, a Mexican Imperial stout flavored with ancho chilies, cacao nibs, cinnamon and vanilla beans. It was an immediate hit. Since then, the brewery has produced myriad great beers in the style, from the Fantastic Voyage, an Imperial milk stout with coconut and notes of coffee and baker’s chocolate, to the Intentionally Indulgent, an Imperial stout with vanilla, coffee

Guide to Beer 2020

and chocolate that Perennial plans to phase back into rotation this year.

Perennial’s stouts are all based on one master recipe. The base itself isn’t bottled, but Prodigal is the beer closest to that recipe, with just some subtle additions of cacao nibs and vanilla. The aptly named Maman (French for “mother”) is the base stout aged in whiskey barrels with no adjuncts, offering a big, smooth mouthfeel and delicate notes of chocolate and oak. It’s Perennial co-

owner Phil Wymore’s favorite. “I just like that it’s sort of stripped down,” he said. “I really enjoy drinking whiskey anyway, so it’s kind of a nice mélange to layer that flavor character on top of our base stout.”

Almost a decade later, Abraxas is still one of the base stout’s most powerful offspring. “It’s the most popular and accessible stout that we make,” Wymore said. “Barrel-aged Abraxas is the most sought-after. It’s just a lot more limited than the regular Abraxas.”

Another notable lineage in the master recipe’s children is the coffee stouts. “We’ve been making coffee stouts for maybe five years, six years,” Wymore said, calling them some of Perennial’s most successful brews. The brewery has partnered with roasteries like Sump and Chicago’s Dark Matter Coffee to create bean-infused recipes for an amped-up buzz.

Here’s a look at Perennial’s stout family tree.

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Guide to Beer 2020

COCONUT ABRAXAS

VANILLA ABRAXAS

BARREL-AGED ABRAXAS

COFFEE ABRAXAS

MAMAN Imperial stout aged up to two years in whiskey barrels

aged 15 to 17 months in whiskey barrels

17

Imperial stout with cacao nibs and mint leaves

BARREL-AGED 17 TAKE 10

ABRAXAS

SUMP COFFEE STOUT BARREL-AGED SUMP COFFEE aged 12 months in Rittenhouse rye barrelsÂ

FORTUNE FADED Imperial stout with vanilla

PRODIGAL

IMAGES COURTESY OF PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES

Imperial oatmeal milk stout

FANTASTIC VOYAGE Imperial stout with coconut

base imperial stout *Currently available at Perennial Artisan Ales, 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com

Guide to Beer 2020

Imperial stout with salt, chocolate and peanuts

Imperial stout with ancho chiles, cacao nibs, cinnamon and vanilla beans

INTENTIONALLY INDULGENT Tiramisu-inspired Imperial stout with vanilla, coffee and chocolate sauce

UNICORN TEARS Imperial stout barrel-aged 18 months, steeped on tart cherries

COFFEE STOUT Made with Dark Matter Coffee

ANNIVERSARY BLEND 2019 'TIL THE NIGHT CLOSES IN Imperial milk stout with orange

Blend of Imperial stout, barleywine and wheatwine aged in wood

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get low St . Lou i s breweries go l ow- a n d n o-A BV

by matt sorrell // photo by izaiah johnson

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Guide to Beer 2020

After White Claw Summer 2019, the

proliferation of hard seltzers has been hard to escape. While it may horrify some beer nerds that serious craft breweries are involved in such frivolities, this trend didn’t start with water.

Low-booze beverages have always been with us, and the old craft obsession with high-gravity IPAs and the like has been soundly replaced in recent years by a love of low-ABV brews like lagers. It was only a matter of time until

breweries were straight-up selling water.

The Boston Beer Co. made waves last year when its Truly hard seltzer significantly outperformed its Samuel Adams beer. With beer sales stalling nationally and a 200% sales increase for the most popular hard seltzer, White Claw, from 2018 to 2019, according to Nielsen data, it’s no wonder more breweries want in on the action.

Along with an increased interest in high-end sessionable beers (those with ABVs around 3% to 5%), nonalcoholic brews are seeing new life. For those who want to eighty-six the booze completely, there are more quality beers available than ever before, with international brands like Heineken committing a lot of resources to making NA beer Guide to Beer 2020

The consumer focus on health and wellness seems to be at least one of the drivers of this trajectory from high- to low- to sometimes no-ABV beers and other beverages. The goal can be reducing calories from drinking or pursuing a healthier relationship with alcohol.

“I know there’s an audience for good quality nonalcoholic beer,” Stevens said. “Is it going to be this explosive mass trend? I don’t know.” Early on, he saw some pushback from retailers anxious to promote their alcoholic brands that still make up the larger part of the market, but he feels they’ve become more interested in the NA audience.

lower alcohol. Currently, the Wellspent taproom sports three taps serving beers at 4% ABV or lower. As a brewer, Kohlmorgen is attracted to the subtlety of brewing something that’s both flavorful and lower in alcohol.

According to Jeff Stevens, owner of WellBeing Brewing Co. and a local pioneer in the NA beer surge, the public’s

“I do think that mindful drinking is a definite trend. People just having a better relationship with how much they drink – thinking

Other brewers are diversifying with new products. Schlafly introduced Boomerang mead spritzer to its lineup in late 2019. The brewery had offered some full-strength meads in its taproom in the past and thought the fermented honey beverage would provide a good base for a lower alcohol libation. Boomerang comes in at 4% with no sugar, 3 grams of carbs, 90 calories and is glutenfree to boot.

that tastes consistent with its alcoholic offerings.

relationship to alcohol has been changing. In recent years, Stevens has witnessed more people contemplating their relationships with alcohol, fueled by movements like Recover Out Loud and the Dry January campaign.

“Recovery was always about being anonymous and suddenly in the digital space especially there was an explosion of people taking about recovery and not drinking,” he said.

WellBeing, which debuted in 2017, currently has five NA beers available: Heavenly Body Golden Wheat, Hellraiser Dark Amber, Victory Wheat, Intentional IPA and Intrepid Traveler Coffee Cream Stout. Until recently, there has been more demand than WellBeing was able to supply.

about it more in ways they haven’t before. I think that’s a real trend,” he said.

“I think it’s a bell curve,” he said.

“Making an excellent example of a 3% beer and a 13% beer is an incredibly difficult task.”

“We wanted to give the consumers what they want,” Schlafly founding brewer Stephen Hale said. “Rather than try and copy the hard seltzer market, we wanted to reintroduce a lower-gravity mead. I like to think of it as the pendulum swinging back.” Still, he said he doesn’t think highgravity brews will disappear.

As the general public concentrates more on personal health and wellness, the demand for products to feed that desire is constantly expanding and many local brewers are positioning themselves to take advantage of the demand in a variety of ways. For some, this means continuing on with business as usual. Kyle Kohlmorgen, head brewer at Wellspent Brewing Co., made his name making lowABV beers.

WellBeing is in the process of developing a CBD seltzer, which will launch in April, and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. recently debuted HopWater, a nonalcoholic sparkling water flavored with hops. The beverage began as a one-off project for Loufest in 2018.

When the festival was abruptly canceled, the company put HopWater on tap at its Grove bierhall. It proved popular enough that they started canning it and now offer it in ginger and grapefruit flavors as well as the original.

“It excites me as a brewer and us as a company because it’s what we put our hat in the ring with when we first started,” he said of the recent shift to

“The [nonalcoholic] category has been with us forever,” said UCBC co-founder David Wolfe.

“We’re just seeing a change in it.

It’s taking on its own shape.”

get it Schlafly, 2100 Locust St., St. Louis; 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood; 314.241.2337, schlafly.com Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave.; 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis; 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com WellBeing Brewing Co. wellbeingbrewing.com Wellspent Brewing Co. 2917 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.328.0505, wellspentbeer.com

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fo the How Abbey Spencer went from homebrewer to Third Wheel’s head brewer teaching the next generation of St. Louis beer

BY STACY SCHULTZ // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Guide to Beer 2020

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The second beer Abbey Spencer ever brewed was terrible. It was a porter she made using one of those homebrewing kits – the kind where you just add water and hops and let it do its thing.

She had just moved to St. Louis from Chicago and found herself at the back bar at Cicero’s with her then-boyfriend, now-husband, Benn Overkamp. “The bartender gave us a bunch of samples of all these crazy craft beers,” Spencer recalled. “He mentioned that Cicero’s had this free beer school, which, you know, was unheard of at that time. So we started showing up at this class. I got sucked in.”

A fellow classmate told her about the homebrewing kits, and soon Spencer brewed her first beer – a “drinkable” wheat. The second? That less drinkable porter. So she dumped it but kept brewing. Soon she had made more great beer than she and Overkamp could ever drink, so she started having parties – lots of parties – for her friends and family.

“I’m not saying [they were] ragers,” Spencer chuckled. It was a bunch of beer nerds with written descriptions of the brews. “Just nerding out left and right.”

As Spencer immersed herself in the local craft beer scene, working at the Flying Saucer and Craft Beer Cellar and hanging out at beer bars like The Stable, she started to notice how often men would order for their girlfriends and wives. It made Spencer think about women’s place in the craft beer movement. In 2014, she co-founded The OG, an organization dedicated to educating and getting women involved in craft beer. They started hosting brewing demos, guest speakers and events for women interested in beer.

Spencer had made a name for herself – and not only through community involvement.

Just two months after she dumped that first porter, she made another and began to medal with it at competitions, calling it Redemption Porter.

In 2016, The Stable’s former owner, Brad Wheeling, approached her about working at a St. Peters brewery he was opening with partners. They had met years earlier, when Spencer and Overkamp could be found at The Stable most Fridays for pizza and a few drafts.

Wheeling had been out of the beer scene for a few years after selling The Stable and its small-scale brew operation, Amalgamated Brewing, but he’d been attending Spencer’s homebrew parties and was impressed with the quality she was turning out.

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owners are still few and far between. It’s still a relevant conversation, but we have a lot more resources than we did.

She was stoked. She had been doing mostly front-of-house work and was excited to help open the place. “He’s like, ‘Nope! We would like you to brew.’ I mean, I think my jaw just dropped. I was not expecting that at all. I was just a little homebrewer in Dogtown. So I asked him to let me think about it. I figured if I said no, that would probably be one of my biggest regrets ever.”

“It feels good that these conversations can

be moved out from these small rooms with just a handful of us to larger spaces, more public domains – and it’s not just women talking to women anymore. It’s women and men and people of color, LGBTQ people trying to push the craft community to be much more inclusive of everybody across the board.”

Wheeling was so sold on her beer that his partners didn’t share Spencer’s hesitation.

“She was the hardest person to convince!” he said. “With her personality and her beer, I knew she was the right person for the job. Every time, the next beer she made was better than the last.”

And now, as another way to give back to the community, Spencer took on a faculty position at Saint Louis University’s new brewing science and operations program.

She has a course called Flavor, Quality Control and Sensory Evaluation alongside other local brewing pros, teaching students how to improve their palates and accurately judge beer in preparation for their first cicerone test.

In 2017, Third Wheel Brewing opened its doors with Spencer as head brewer. She focused on what she did best: “unique takes on classic styles and classic takes on unique styles.” She wasn’t going to be a trendsetter.

She wanted to focus on quality, make beer she felt proud of – beer she wanted to drink. Included in that list was the Redemption Porter, this time renamed for its new home: Saint Peters’ Porter.

Third Wheel was St. Peters’ first brewery, and for this Bud-heavy town, the learning curve was bigger than Spencer and her partners expected. “You have all these people from the St. Charles, St. Peters, O’Fallon areas coming in,” Spencer said. “They see a bar, they see it’s a beer bar, and they want Bud Light. And that’s because so many of them had not been exposed to the small microbrewery, brewpub environment.”

But the partners trudged through it, and around the six-month mark, they saw a shift. Suddenly, there was excitement about them being there. The age of the Third Wheel customer dropped dramatically. They started hearing things like, “We’re just so glad we don’t have to cross the river every weekend.”

“Our business out here is about creating this community of our locals, our neighbors,” Spencer said proudly. “Those who are coming in every day and sitting at our bar – it’s not people traveling from the city out here.”

Today, Third Wheel beer is hitting drafts in Columbia and will soon pour from taps at more bars in St. Peters and St. Charles too. Spencer is learning to can and playing around with beers inspired Guide to Beer 2020

"It’s not just women talking to women anymore. It’s women and men and people of color, LGBTQ people trying to push the craft community to be much more inclusive of everybody across the board.” by the creativity of the cocktail scene, like Sloe Clap, her take on a sloe gin fizz brewed with plum puree, juniper berries, lemon peel and lots of creamy lactose.

“Coming in in the beginning and just being so overwhelmed – so much fear and so much anxiety – and now, being two-and-a-half years in, looking back on me freaking out about my abilities and my capabilities,” Spencer said. “You know, I just want to hug her and tell her, ‘You’re going to be OK. It’s fine. There are so many people to help you. It’s gonna be great.’”

Preparing to open Third Wheel, Spencer apprenticed with Cat Golden at Mark Twain Brewing Co. and Jared Sefill and Rick Hagen at Heavy Riff Brewing Co. on her days off from Craft Beer Cellar.

They held her hand, taught her the ropes

and let her pepper them with questions about the business and how to brew on a large-scale system.

Before the brewery opened, Spencer also joined Pink Boots, a national society committed to the advancement of women in the beer industry. She’s active in the new St. Louis chapter and is still a member of The OG as well. As a cofounder, she raised funds, collaborated with areas brewers to put real beer out into the world and, most importantly, she has seen the landscape shift.

“There’s a lot of women in beer,” Spencer explained happily. “I do feel like the conversation has started to change a little bit. I don’t want to ever say it’s an irrelevant conversation because we’re still paid less and we’re still seen less – especially in production rolls. Women

Beer education is one of Spencer’s biggest passions. She has always been a teacher.

When she lived in Chicago, she oversaw a nonprofit program teaching English, civics and more to immigrants. She developed an education program for staff at Craft Beer Cellar when she was there and has always focused on training staff in her industry jobs.

“For me, to be approached by Troika Brodsky [director of the SLU program] – it’s one of the biggest honors ever. To be in that environment, especially to be teaching alongside these guys I’ve idolized for years – Mitch Turner [sales director at Major Brands] is teaching, and he’s the one that really inspired me.” Turner taught at the old Cicero’s beer school Spencer attended when she moved to St. Louis and was part of the reason she became a certified cicerone. “I wanted to do what he was doing; now he’s a colleague of mine. You can imagine how I feel about that. I totally fan-girled out hard.”

Among all the beers Spencer has on tap at Third Wheel, the Saint Peters’ Porter is still her favorite. Using almost the same recipe she redeemed herself with after dumping that first porter, it’s proofpositive that after years in the industry, Spencer’s impact on the local scene – and her beer – aren’t going anywhere.

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stl beer festivals by erin killion // illustration by vidhya nagarajan presentations, beer dinners and more. The highlight of the week is the annual Midwest Belgian Beer Fest on July 25. Tickets available online.

Hop in the City Sept. 19 – The Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com Sample nearly every beer in Schlafly’s portfolio at this annual outdoor festival, including White Lager, Tropical Saison and Oatmeal Stout. Tickets available online.

Oktoberfest St. Louis Sept. 25 to 27 – Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., St. Louis, oktoberfeststl.com Pull up your lederhosen and head to Urban Chestnut’s Midtown location for traditional Oktoberfest brews like the Oachkatzlschwoaf festival lager and partake in a stein-holding competition. Free admission.

Schlafly Stout & Oyster Festival March 20 and 21 – Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com Schlafly flies in thousands of oysters from the East and West coasts at this free festival. Slurp bivalves and sample more than 15 Schlafly stouts.

FestivAle March 27 – Union Station, St. Louis, festivalestl.com This STL beer showcase features vendors like Earthbound Beer and Logboat Brewing Co. along with food tastings. The event supports the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation.

Tickets available online.

St. Louis Beer Fest March 21 – St. Louis Science Center, St. Louis, Facebook: St. Louis Beer Fest Enjoy a night at the museum at this inaugural beer fest. Sip on samples from over 40 area breweries. Tickets available online.

Ales for Tails March 28 – 2nd Shift Brewing, St. Louis, Facebook: Ales for Tails 2020 Taste samples from local brewers and homebrew clubs like Brewminati and 618 Home Brew Club. Proceeds benefit Tenth Life and Needy Paws. Tickets available online.

Buzz’d Beer Festival March 22 –The Old Bakery Beer Co., Alton, oldbakerybeer.com The Old Bakery Beer Co. is abuzz over its fifth anniversary. Over 25 producers like White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery sample items made with flowers, honey or fruit.

Tickets available online.

St. Louis Microfest May 1 and 2 – Upper Muny Parking Lot, St. Louis, stlmicrofest.org Sample brews from more than 20 area breweries like Wellspent Brewing Co., Modern Brewery and more. Test your skills in the Brewers’ Olympics and support Lift for Life Gym. Tickets available online.

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Manchester Craft Beer Festival May 9 – Paul A. Schroeder Park, Manchester, manchestermo.gov/beerfest Head to Manchester and sip brews from Brew Hub Tap Room and Civil Life Brewing Co., among many others. Tickets available online.

Midwest Maifest May 9 – New Town Amphitheater, St. Charles, midwestmanifest.org Celebrate traditional German spring beer from locals like Good News Brewing, Six Mile Bridge Beer and Missouri Beer Co., and enjoy live German music. Tickets available online.

Lupulin Carnival* May 16 –The Big Top, St. Louis, lupulincarnival.com 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s annual celebration of the hop features fire-breathers, acrobats and more than 45 breweries like Cinderlands, Oakshire Brewing and Hop Butcher. Tickets available online.

IndiHop Late spring – The Grove and Cherokee Street, indihopstl.com This hop-on, hop-off bus tour allows you to sample breweries like Earthbound Beer and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. at businesses in The Grove and on Cherokee Street. Tickets available online.

Criderfest June 27 – 2nd Shift Brewing, 2ndshiftbrewing.com Celebrate the 10th anniversary of 2nd Shift Brewing at Criderfest with over 70 breweries like Side Project Brewing, Rockwell Beer Co., Big Rip Brewing Co., Good Word Brewing and Penrose Brewing Co. Tickets available online and at the door.

St. Louis Craft Beer Week July 24 to Aug. 1 – St. Louis, stlbeerweek.com Drink to St. Louis’ rich beer history all week long with dozens of tastings,

St. Charles Oktoberfest Sept. 25 to 27 – Frontier Park, St. Charles, discoverstcharles.com St. Charles hosts its Oktoberfest again this year with more than 30 beers from 12 breweries, including Hofbrau, Samuel Adams and more. Free admission.

Fest-of-Ale Oct. 16 – Missouri Botanical Garden, St. Louis, missouribotanicalgarden.org Observe the beautiful plants and enjoy beer from over 30 local breweries. Past participating breweries have included Perennial Artisan Ales and Bluewood Brewing. Tickets available in advance or at the door.

Czech Beer Festival Dec. 12 – American-Czech Educational Center, St. Louis, acestl.org Try an array of imported Czech beers, from Pilsners to ales and everything in between, while enjoying live music and Czech food like stuffed kolache for purchase. Tickets available online. * denotes a sauce-sponsored event

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PARTNER CONTENT

DR I N K OFF MEN U AT W ESTPORT SOCI A L

BY LAUREN HEALEY

I

f you think all Westport Social has to offer are games, some yummy eats and a standard beverage selection, think again. Although the rotating cocktail list is quite inventive, bar manager Kyle Mathis is pushing the envelope regarding what a volume bar offers, ensuring you can quaff all your favorite off-menu libations, from an Aviation to a Sazerac and everything in between.

“One of our biggest objectives is to give people an opportunity to step outside their comfort zone,” Mathis said. “We carry a lot of spirits needed for some of those out-there classics.

Volume bars typically limit the amount of hand selling, but we’re willing to take time to converse with our guests.”

Allspice Dram, for example, is utilized in winter cocktails to add savory components, while crème de violette adds sweet, floral notes to drinks like the Aviation. Green chartreuse adds spicysweet herbal layers to cocktails like the Last Word, and Luxardo Maraschino imparts fruity notes to the Last Word and Aviation, along with the on-menu frozen bellini. And the Brazilian spirit cachaça imbues drinks like a Caipirinha with herbal, floral flavors.

“They’re not featured much on the menu, but we use them on a regular basis because we have the opportunity and demand to make these cocktails that aren’t necessarily available elsewhere,” Mathis said.

Westport Social also offers a range of Massenez Garden Party herbal liqueurs, from mint and rosemary to sage, thyme and basil.

PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY

“They’re a nice way for us to add fresh, herbal flavors without actually having to use fresh herbs, which are notorious for slowing down service,” he said. “If you feel like you don’t know what you’re doing, come in and ask, ‘What’s a classic cocktail off menu that I might like?’ And the bartenders will work with you to help you pick a good flavor profile.”

Although the off-menu options are phenomenal, the selections on the Guide Beer 2020 1 to I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

menu are always worth trying.

“I tend to think of cocktails in a culinary sense – I’ll look at food pairings that match well and try to translate that into a beverage,” Mathis said. “We do a lot of interesting stuff you don’t see many other places.

We’re not afraid to put scotch in a cocktail, like in our B. Foster, which is a take on a White Russian with Cinnamon Toast Crunch-infused almond milk, Johnny Walker red scotch, Big O ginger liqueur and caffe amaro. Even though it may scare a few people away, we feel confident to put it in front of most patrons. ” Mathis creates distinctive combinations in other drinks too.

“The frozen Paloma is a fun one,” he said. “Mixing gin and tequila seems slightly odd, but some of the green vegetal characteristics in the jalepenoinfused tequila work really well with the aromatic, herbal components in gin. ... I look up natural flavor affinities and work from there.”

The bar also offers a good selection of local beers from breweries like 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Rockwell Beer Co., along with some more unique options like Pipeworks Ninja vs.

Unicorn and Mother’s Social Brew.

“We also try to keep a dedicated limited release line,” Mathis said. “In the wintertime, we do some of the barrel-aged stouts. In the spring and summer, we try to do some of the more limited IPAs and sours.”

The menus are updated every spring and fall, but rest assured you’ll always be able to order your favorite cocktails.

“Even if you aren’t coming in necessarily to drink, one of the best parts about this place is that we support the most diverse clientele I’ve ever seen in a bar,” Mathis said. “We have a laid-back vibe with an attentive but not overbearing staff, plus it’s just a huge space that’s really inviting.”

For more information, visit westportsocial-stl.com.

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