G U I D E
T O
BEER
lagers at urban chestnut brewing co.
Mar/Apr 2021 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 ST. LOUIS’ I N DE PE N DE NT C ULI NARY AUTHOR ITY // SAUC EMAGAZI N E.C OM // FR Esaucemagazine.com E, MARC H/APR I L 2021
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M ARCH/APRIL 2021 • VOLUME 21, ISSUE 2 Our household
goes through Allyson Mace quite a bit of Meera Nagarajan Stag. Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Butterbeer. Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Jonathan Gayman, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Meera Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth Half Acre Beer James Boeckmann, Catherine Klene, Lauren CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Co. Their IPAs are Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Adam Rothbarth, absolutely nuts and the branding Matt Sorrell, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson is gorgeous. COPY EDITOR Heather Hughes Huff ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Allyson Mace ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Angie Rosenberg EVENTS COORDINATOR Amy Hyde LISTINGS EDITOR Amy Hyde INTERNS Adejoke Adanri, Zoe Butler, Sophia Daniels, Madyson Dixon, Hannah Freiberg, Blakely Off Color Brewing Dino Gibeaut, Abie Groes, Madeline Heintz, Greta S'mores - it's an Imperial marshmallow stout Nagy, Matthew Rockwell, Adam Siddle
PUBLISHER What beer EXECUTIVE EDITOR are you drinking MANAGING EDITOR right now? DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
perfect for backyard bonfires!
Snapper by Logboat, because I'm always drinking Logboat.
Now that it’s getting warmer, I’m reaching for Konig Ludwig, a Bavarian Hefeweizen.
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business, contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2021– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 Mar/Apr 2021
contents M A R C H /A P R I L 2 02 1
editors' picks 9 EAT THIS Spinach and cheese pie at J’s Pitaria
by liz wolfson 10 HIT LIST 6 new places to try this month
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, adam rothbarth and liz wolfson 15 DRINK THIS Barleywine
features 20
LAGERTOWN, USA
St. Louis has always been a lager town, but recently craft brewers have fallen in love with the classic style all over again.
by adam rothbarth 24
HOW LOW CAN YOU GO?
Eight low-ABV beverages just as tasty as their high-gravity counterparts by james boeckmann
by liz wolfson
26
16 TRENDWATCH: GUIDE TO BEER
Boilermaker combos that will spark joy
From Norwegian yeast to aged hops, these are the trends to watch for in the local beer scene.
by matt sorrell
last bite 40 WHAT I DO Aaron Cummings of The Caramel Room
IT TAKES TWO by michelle volansky 29
BACKYARD BREWERY Our guide to recreating a classic brewery experience at home
by adam rothbarth 34
by liz wolfson
MEMBERS ONLY
42 LANDMARK
by catherine klene
Brewery membership has its privileges
Llywelyn’s Pub
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
by adam rothbarth
COVER DETAILS GUIDE TO BEER From Märzens to Festbiers to Pilsners like Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Stammtisch, there’s a lager style to suit every palate. Learn more at p. 20. PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Mar/Apr 2021
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
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PARTNER CONTENT
The top-selling pale ale in St. Louis that also happens to have a philanthropic mission, 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s City Wide, is celebrating its 5th anniversary this year. “When we opened the brewery, we always wanted our mission to be more than beer, and City Wide was the catalyst for us to build a brand that is more than just beer,” said Kevin Lemp, founder and CEO of 4 Hands. For every four-pack of City Wide sold in the St. Louis market, $1 is allocated for a local nonprofit. “We know our donations aren’t necessarily going to be life changing, but we’re able to help. To beautify the place we call home little by little means a lot to us,” he said. “We work with a diverse group of nonprofits doing good for the city, and that really fills our cups. It’s not just a monetary relationship; we roll up our sleeves and become involved, and some are continuing relationships that we’re still very close with.” During the past five years, $250,000 has been raised and divided among over 20 nonprofits,
including Ronald McDonald House, Forest Park Forever, St. Louis Public Radio, Mission: St. Louis, Tower Grove Park, Big Brothers Big Sisters, Great Rivers Greenway and more. “We can’t wait till that number is $1,000,000,” he said. “This project is the one that when we talk about it, we get goose bumps.” Although no events are currently planned in celebration of the beer’s anniversary as Covid concerns linger, the brewery will soon debut new City Wide labels. “We’re going to have a birthday label you can pull apart that shows the timeline of City Wide,” Lemp said. “And we’re releasing an artist series in April, so each fourpack will have four different labels created by St. Louis artists.” City Wide 30-packs are currently available at grocery stores and bottle shops, and a handful have a golden can that will allow you to enter in a lottery for a staycation. “We are excited to be able to highlight some of our favorite attractions our city offers through the stay-cation packages,” he said. Winners will be chosen in May. For more information, visit 4handsbrewery.com. PHOTO BY HEIDI DREXLER PHOTOGRAPHY
CITY WIDE CELEBR ATION 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s best-seller turns 5 BY LAUREN HEALEY
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Eat This
J’s Pitaria makes its spinach and cheese Mediterranean pie the traditional way, handstretching the phyllo dough before stuffing, coiling and baking it into a transcendent spiral of verdant perfection. The pastry tenderly cradles its earthy spinach and mildly creamy cheese filling, its crackly exterior shattering upon the initial bite. Pro tip: Order a glass of ayran, a savory yogurt drink, to go with your pie; the salty beverage is a perfect counterpoint to the pie’s richness.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
J’s Pitaria 91 Concord Plaza Shopping Center, Sappington, 314.270.8005, jspitaria.us
Mar/Apr 2021
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hit list
6 new places to try this month
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opposite page: the dining room at tai ke shabu shabu; this page, clockwise, from top: chicken sandwich at chuck's hot chicken, mutton wok at tai ke shabu shabu, induction cooktops at tai ke shabu shabu
TAI KE SHABU SHABU PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; CHUCK'S HOT CHICKEN PHOTO COURTESY OF CHUCK'S HOT CHICKEN
TAI KE SHABU SHABU Popular Taiwanese restaurant Tai Ke has reopened down the street as Tai Ke Shabu Shabu. The new program retains many of the original restaurant’s dishes while adding an extensive menu of shabu shabu, a Japanese-style dish served with thinly sliced, raw protein cooked tableside inside a simmering pot of broth. Seated at a bar lined with induction cooktops, diners order either a hot pot served with raw meat and broth or a wok served as a pre-assembled, cooked stew. We tried the mutton wok (owner Calvin Koong’s favorite dish), which had braised mutton served in a rich and aromatic broth flavored with rice wine, ginger and sweet notes from dates and goji berries. Complete your order with Tai Ke OG favorites like the Taiwanese popcorn chicken or basil stir-fried eggplant, and you’re in for a treat.
9626 Olive Blvd., Olivette, 314.801.8894, taikeshabushabu.com
CHUCK'S HOT CHICKEN If you’re craving some Nashville hot chicken and can’t make the trek to Nashville, look no further. You must start with the garlic cheese curds; the garlic’s extra kick made them some of the best fried cheese we’ve ever had. For the main course, choose a heat level of one to five for hand-breaded chicken strips or a sandwich served on a fresh, buttered brioche bun with pickles. Add a slice of pepper jack or provolone and pair with a side of the crispy-even-after-transport fries, which are especially great with the honey-sriracha aioli.
11648 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, chuckshotchicken.com
Mar/Apr 2021
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Sometimes there is only one cure for what ails you: a warm cookie. For those times, Alibi Cookies is here with the prescription you need. Alibi’s offerings aren’t fussy; just tried-and-true flavors like chocolate chunk, peanut butter and oatmeal raisin baked to gooey perfection and served warm. The s’mores cookie was a textural delight, with marshmallow and graham cracker pieces mixed into chocolate dough. While most of Alibi’s cookies are modestly scaled at about 2 ounces, those looking for a more substantial cookie experience (or to share), can opt for deluxe versions more than double in size but just as tender as their standard-sized counterparts in M&M, triple chocolate chunk and peanut butter cup flavors.
1136 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4095, alibicookies.com
OLD BRIDGEVIEW BREWING
TWISTED TAVERN This sister restaurant to local mainstays Syberg’s, Helen Fitzgerald’s and Twisted Tree Steakhouse confirms that the St. Louis area’s excellent culinary options are expanding south. The steak sandwich comprises perfectly cooked-to-order strip steak topped with provolone, caramelized onions and a roasted garlic aioli. The massive chopped salad is also a winner with a fresh spread of greens, red cabbage, cucumbers and tomatoes with a sweet onion vinaigrette topped with feta, buttery croutons and a drizzle of balsamic glaze.
3606 W. Outer Road, Arnold, 314.900.1331, twistedtavernstl.com
LOCOZ TACOZ
Washington’s Old Bridgeview Brewing has a style of beer (as well as kombucha and cider) to match every mood. Grab a Fraulein Hilda (their Berliner Weisse), select a house-made syrup to flavor it (we liked the autumnal spiced pear), and gaze out of garage doors that frame a picturesque view of the Missouri River. The brewery also offers a food menu designed by local restaurant Tilted Skillet. The new program, Tilted Skillet 2, features brewpub classics like a giant pub pretzel served with beercheese sauce as well as riffs like a pulled pork-grilled cheese sandwich. Salty, rich and delicious, it’s exactly what you want to eat at a brewery.
With the Locoz Tacoz food truck running the food program at South City bar Tres Equis, you can now get your faves on a more regular basis. The street tacos are the star of the show, and you can’t go wrong with the pineapple-laced pork al pastor in corn tortillas topped with diced onion and chopped cilantro, plus your choice of hot or mild (or both!) housemade salsas. The nacho-eque Locoz Fries, smothered in house-made cheese sauce and topped with carne asada, pico de gallo, queso fresco, sour cream and a spicy signature sauce, also should not be missed.
16 E. Front St., Washington, oldbridgeview.com
3169 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, locoztacoz.com
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OLD BRIDGEVIEW BREWING PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; ALIBI COOKIES PHOTO COURTESY OF ALIBI COOKIES
ALIBI COOKIES
opposite page: the cheeseburger at old bridgeview brewing; this page, clockwise, from top: alibi cookies, the co-owners at old bridgeview brewing, from left, tony willson, eric earls, fair holschen and darren o'rear, beers at old bridgeview brewing
Mar/Apr 2021
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drink this Barleywine – the hefty, high-ABV style of beer best suited to slow sipping – is the perfect candidate for collaboration between a bottle shop and a craft brewery. Look out this spring for an as-of-yet-unnamed collab from The Wine and Cheese Place and Side Project Brewing; the blend of barrel-aged and double barrel-aged, English-inspired barleywines will be finished on vanilla beans. Side Project also plans to release two other barleywines this spring: Anabasis, an Americanstyle barleywine, as well as a blended, barrel-aged option to be finished on fresh ground cinnamon as well as vanilla.
PHOTO BY TIM BOTTCHEN
The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; Side Project Brewing, 7458 Manchester Road, Maplewood, sideprojectbrewing.com
Mar/Apr 2021
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TRENDWATCH In an uncertain world, one thing that can always be counted on is the creative, convivial and questing nature of the craft brewing industry. We checked in with some luminaries of the local scene to get their takes on what’s trending.
BY M ATT SOR R ELL
Cryo Hops
Brewers are always looking for ways to get more flavor and brew more efficiently, and the recent advent of cryo hops accomplishes both. Lupulin – the substance that’s really the flavorful essence of the hop – is extracted at extremely low temperatures. This leaves just the good stuff brewers want while eliminating waste and increasing yields. “You’re basically getting twice the flavor and aromatic impact out of the same weight of [hop] pellets,” explained Phil Wymore, owner-brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales. Local breweries like 2nd Shift Brewing, Modern Brewery and Perennial have utilized cryo hops and others, like Schlalfly, are actively experimenting.
Smaller Formats
Perhaps because of the communal nature of the homebrew and microbrewery worlds, at the dawning of the craft brewing scene most beers were available in hefty 750-milliliter or 22-ounce “bomber” bottles meant to be shared. These days, smaller formats have taken hold so that individuals can sip solo without wasting beer or feeling like they have to overindulge. When Saint Louis Hop Shop debuted there was an entire section dedicated to large-format beers, but they’ve since repurposed the space for other uses, according to co-owner Justin Harris. Wymore, who started out offering Perennial’s beers in big bottles, said outside of some barrelaged beers and a few others, most of his brews come in 16-ounce cans, while Hale said Schlafly has recently done away with 750s altogether.
Norwegian Kveik Yeast
This hearty family of yeast strains has been a brewing staple in Norway for generations, but only recently has it taken hold in the rest of the beer-drinking world. “It’s crazy stuff,” said Stephen Hale, founding brewer at Schlafly. “Its resilience in high temperatures is amazing.” Kveik can ferment at temperatures upward of 100 degrees Fahrenheit (typical ale strains ferment around the 70-degree mark) without producing any off flavors and completes fermentation faster, allowing brewers to get their wares to thirsty fans quicker. Check out the results in 2nd Shift’s Lucy Lager, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Hallertau Haze and nearly all the offerings from Old Bakery Beer Co.
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Aged Hops
With all the work that goes into processing and packaging hops to keep them as fresh as possible, the idea of aged hops seems counterintuitive. But this technique has a very specific application, and it’s getting noticed with the increasing interest in esoteric brews like sour beers and farmhouse ales. “It’s not something that works well in, say, an IPA,” Wymore said. “But it works in many traditional Belgian-style beers, like lambic and guze.” Wymore said Perennial is currently employing aged hops in some open and wild fermented sour beers, while Side Project Brewing uses it for the funky, wild fermented Blended 2020, among others.
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PARTNER CONTENT
Klance Unlimited offers wide range of Covid-mitigating products
PHOTO BY LAUREN HEALEY
As with many businesses in 2020, when the coronavirus came calling, Klance Unlimited had to swiftly pivot. The events production company now offers an array of Covid-mitigating products, many of which are perfect for a food-service setting. “When the pandemic hit, our industry was severely affected and we couldn’t do live events,” said Kyle Vogt, vice president of Klance Unlimited. “So about two months in, we partnered with another company and started working toward our goal of figuring out how to get events to happen again and doing heavy research on what steps besides wearing masks and social distancing could help us mitigate the spread and get back to live events.” Through their research, the Klance team discovered a plethora of useful mitigating products, but three have proven most useful in the restaurant industry: UVC, long-life disinfectant and thermal readers. UVC is a technology that has been used for many years in applications like water treatment plants and surgery centers, but is gaining
Mar/Apr 2021
traction in restaurants, convention centers and more. “UVC has the peak germicidal efficacy where most living microorganisms will die,” Vogt said. Klance offered several UVC options, including direct lighting triggered by a motion sensor that can disinfect a room in about 15 minutes, along with both large- and small-scale air units that are most useful in a restaurant setting. “The air units are in a cylinder with fans that suck in old air and disinfects it, then puts fresh air out into the room,” he explained. “Seeing is believing, and with these portable air units that could be put throughout a dining room, it’s great marketing to attract people to come back to in-person dining if they know the air is being disinfected.” Carnivore on the Hill has installed two sizes of these air units. “We’re not sure how long Covid will be around, and we still have leery customers, so this will give them more comfort and keep them coming back in once they see the units,” said Carnivore co-owner Joe Smugala. “It’s good for business. We like that they’re portable, so they can be used in the dining room or moved to the private event space as needed.”
The System 3 long-life disinfectant is also great in a food-service setting. “It completely eradicates the coronavirus and kills its ability to reproduce,” Vogt explained. “What differentiates our product from others is that when you spray it on any surface, it bonds to the surface and stays active and continues killing germs for up to 120 days. However, high-touch surfaces like door handles likely need to be sprayed about once a month. And the best part is, the ingredients are organic and food-grade, so it can be used safely in kitchens.” Klance also offers both tabletop and wallmounted thermal readers to take touchfree temperatures. If anyone has a high temperature, the device alerts that person in the moment, as well as sends a notification to a designated admin. Many of these products are covered under PPP (Paycheck Protection Program) reimbursements, so check with your lender for confirmation. For more information, visit klanceunlimited.com/safety or call 636.271.3400.
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LAGERTOWN,
USA
St. Louis has always been a lager tow n, but craft brewers have fallen in love with the classic style all over again. We turned to so m e local ex perts to find out what rekindled the spark. BY ADAM ROTHBARTH // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Mar/Apr 2021
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IN A CITY FULL OF BEER FANATICS
chomping at the bit for the latest New England-style hazy IPAs and spicy-sweet Imperial stouts, it can be easy to overlook the lager, a smooth, endlessly malleable brew built on centuries of tradition. Lagers play a central role in some of St. Louis’ favorite pastimes, like drinking icecold Budweisers at Busch Stadium while watching the Cardinals – a team owned by lager-masters Anheuser-Busch from 1953 to 1996. In other parts of town, like South City, menus everywhere from dive bars to fine dining restaurants offer the hallowed Busch; born as Busch Bavarian Beer in 1955, it’s enjoyed by many as a sort of counter-culture alternative to Budweiser, though both are lagers and produced by the same company. But it isn’t just because of Anheuser-Busch that St. Louis is known as one of the country’s greatest beer cities; it’s our large portfolio of killer craft breweries that’s earned us that distinction. And within that community, lagers have become a sort of benchmark for quality as measured by brewers and customers alike. “It’s a whole different mindset and process from
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ale fermentations,” said Kyle Kohlmorgen, head brewer at Wellspent Brewing Co. “We had to learn to think differently when brewing this style of beer and become more detail-oriented. When we change one little thing on the front end, we get a different result.”
2018; in the summer, he does a lighter American-style corn lager; next fall, he’s considering a smoked lager. “It takes a long time to dial in our pale lager process, and now we’re really focused on making sure that beer is really good and branching off from there,” he said.
the brewery has earned a reputation as one of the best brewers of the style in town. “We brew the Vienna Lager, Dortmunder Lager, Black Lager, Carlbock Lager (a maibock), Czech Pilsner and finish with a few
Part of the difficulty involves scheduling and climate: Lagers take much longer than ales to brew and are fermented at a significantly colder temperature. The word “lager” is German for “storage,” referring to the ice-filled cellars 19thcentury German brewers used for brewing when it was too warm out. According to Kohlmorgen, his pale ales and IPAs take six weeks or less to ferment, while his unfiltered Keller Pils spends about 12 weeks fermenting. It also happens to be his most popular beer. “We don’t have a filter, so it’s not brilliantly clear,” Kohlmorgen explained. “It was our bestseller in the tap room before Covid. Whenever we had that on [draft], we’d sell more of that than IPA or our other beers.”
At Civil Life Brewing Co., another brewery with a sizable portfolio of lagers, the lagering process has become fairly streamlined following a decade spent developing them, said head brewer Dylan Mosley. In his view, lager’s reputation for difficulty largely hinges on the fact that beer production has become optimized for ease and efficiency, making “slower” beers seem more difficult. But these measures are subjective, Mosley pointed out. Adjustments Civil Life’s brewers have made over the years to their lager process include increasing their initial dosing rate of fresh yeast and allowing more time for the “first generation” of fermentation. “By keeping our exponential phase of fermentation really active, we get great results,” he explained.
TOP NOTCH LAGERS Wellspent Keller Pils Wellspent Dark Civil Life Vienna Lager Civil Life Dortmunder Lager Civil Life Black Lager Civil Life Carlbock Lager Civil Life Czech Pilsner Civil Life Oktoberfest Lager Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Stammtisch Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Zwickel Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Urban Underdog American lager Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. O-Katz Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. #6 Side Project Content Moderator
Like most brewers, Kohlmorgen brews his lagers seasonally: Dark, a Czechstyle dark lager, came out in winter
Civil Life’s list of lagers produced throughout the year is extensive, and
Mar/Apr 2021
JAKE HAFNER PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
batches of our Oktoberfest Lager,” said owner and co-founder Jake Hafner. “The Oktoberfest Lager is hands down our most sought after lager, and has a legion of fans that await its release each year.” He added that most of Civil Life’s lagers don’t make it out of the brewpub for retail (with Oktoberfest being the exception), meaning that to get the brewery’s full lager experience, one must go there in person. When asked about their go-to local lager, both Hafner and Kohlmorgen pointed across town to the award-winning Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. – specifically, the brewery’s Stammtisch, a German-style Pils. “To my palate, it’s the best Pilsner in the country,” said Kohlmorgen, who admitted he drinks more of it than any other local beer. Hafner echoed the sentiment. “This is an easy one: Urban Chestnut Stammtisch Pilsner,” he said. “Whenever I see the Stammtisch, I get really happy knowing this is made in our town.” The Stammtisch isn’t only beloved by local pros; according to Urban Chestnut’s co-founder and brewmaster Florian Kuplent, it’s one of the brewery staff’s favorites as well. “We have a little keggerator [of it] in the brewers’ area,” Kuplent said. While the spicy, herbal
brew might get the most love from local brewers, one can find up to a dozen lagers at a time on Urban Chestnut’s taps, including its two best-sellers: Zwickel (a Bavarian lager) and the Urban Underdog American lager. Also, in the fall one can enjoy the O-Katz, a malty Oktoberfest lager, while the summer brings beers like the breezy, golden #6, a Stan Musial-dedicated classic American lager whose recipe predates Prohibition. Side Project Brewing brewer Drew Durish arrived in St. Louis with a wealth of lager knowledge, having brewed at various Texas establishments, including lauded Austin hotspot The Brewer’s Table. “It’s a city that loves low-ABV, light lagers,” Durish said of his former home. “Generally speaking, you see these as – I hate using the word “crushable” – drinkable summertime beers. For the heat of Texas, they work pretty well.” It’s not surprising that this logic also tracks in St. Louis, a city that relishes complaining about its humidity. Though Side Project is primarily known for stouts and sours, Durish enjoys the complexity of brewing lagers. “I love the clean slate. It really makes you focus and hone in on the basics of brewing,” he said.
“It’s the same thing over and over, and done in a very particular manner. Subtle shifts can make or break a beer.” Durish added that while lagers aren’t necessarily more difficult to make than other beers, their smallest flaws are flagrantly on display, as lagers rarely have the fruit, spices or excessive hops that expand the flavor profiles of beers like IPAs or stouts. “There’s not a lot to hide behind,” he declared. According to Durish, Content Moderator, Side Project’s extremely popular corn lager produced by sister brewery Shared, had a long journey to get to its current state. “Content Moderator was the culmination of several different things I brewed at The Brewer’s Table,” Durish explained. “This is the 30th iteration, honing in on exactly what I want to be drinking. It’s such a quenching effect, the sweetness.” He compared Content Moderator to a Pils-style lager, the corn taking the place of German or Austrian malt as an adjunct (an added component like barley, rye, oat or grain). “It can always be better, but it’s definitely the beer I’m most proud of in terms of bringing it into its own,” Durish said. There are a seemingly infinite number of great lagers in town, and everyone has their favorite, from Stammtisch and Zwickel to the Content Moderator. But despite all of the great craft offerings, even the best brewers toast up to the OGs from time to time, with Bud Light and Busch cited by many local beer brewers and foodies (including this writer) as lowkey favorites. In his journey from Texas, where Lone Star (another beer created by Anheuser-Busch co-founder Adolphus Busch) is king, to St. Louis, where the King of Beer dominates all, Durish, too, has come to find the magnetic, goldenhued pull of Busch inescapable. “It’s not surprising that that’s a big deal here. I very much got converted to Busch when I moved up here,” he said, laughing. “It’s really good.”
from left to right: kyle kohlmorgen, head brewer at wellspent brewing co.; jake hafner, owner and co-founder at civil life brewing co.; florian kuplent co-founder and brewmaster at urban chestnut brewing co.
Mar/Apr 2021
THE LAGER STYLE GUIDE Rockwell Beer Co. owner-head brewer Jonathan Moxey helps us break down these popular lager styles Pilsner (aka Pils): Mildly sweet; malty, clean, a bit spicy. “It’s really an opportunity for the malt to show through,” Moxey said. German lager: German-style lagers include everything from bocks and Oktoberfests to Munich Helles lagers and Schwarzbiers. Czech lager: “The Czech lagers are done pulling a decoction mash — pulling out the really thick portion of the mash and boiling it. That cooking process gives it that true Czech flavor,” Moxey explained. Czech lagers are usually richer and fuller-bodied than German lagers; malty, with varying degrees of hoppiness. Festbier: “Modern versions have become paler, a little more bitter, but still in that 6-8% range,” Moxey pointed out. “Malty, smooth, round.” Märzen (aka Oktoberfest): Malty with rich, toasty, clean flavor, sometimes with caramel notes. American lager: Smooth and light-bodied with a neutral flavor profile and low bitterness. Corn lager: Typically a lighter lager, like an American lager, brewed with corn as well as other grains. “When done properly, the corn comes through with some sweetness,” Moxey said. Maibock: Strong malt flavor, balanced by greater hoppiness. Vienna lager: Malty and smooth with moderate bitterness. “That’s where you’re going to get some breadiness and light caramel character. Not as much as a Märzen, but in that way.” Dark or black lager (aka Schwarzbier): Dry and light, with smooth malt flavor and moderate hop bitterness; cocoa and coffee roasting notes, but not a burnt flavor.
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How Low Can You Go? Eight low-ABV and nonalcoholic beers and hop beverages just as tasty as their high-gravity counterparts
by james boeckmann // photo by jonathan gayman
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Hop Water
Main & Mill Brewing Co. Green Chile Ale
2nd Shift Brewing Lucy Lager
Anheuser-Busch Budweiser Zero
Four-pack: $6 to $12. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4465 Manchester Ave.; 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
Six-pack: $10. Main & Mill Brewing Co., 240 E. Main St., Festus, 636.543.3031, mainandmill.com
Four-pack: $11. Southside Wine and Spirits, 4920 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.779.6294, southsidewineandspirits.com
12-pack: $12. Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com
Urban Chestnut’s Hop Water line has expanded since its 2019 debut and now includes a broad-spectrum CBD-infused option in addition to grapefruit, ginger and original flavors.
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Main & Mill’s sharp, 4% ABV blonde ale infused with fresh Anaheim and serrano chiles is a shining example of how sessionable beers don’t have to sacrifice on flavor and experience.
Light, smooth and featuring an extremely cute pup on its label (2nd Shift’s own Lucy the basset hound), Lucy Lager clocks in just 3.8% ABV, making it formfit for a day on the patio.
Here’s to the old dog’s new tricks. Anheuser-Busch’s remix of America’s most popular Pilsner is a sure sign that non-alcoholic beer is here to stay.
Mar/Apr 2021
4 Hands Brewing Co. Ultraviolet Session Sour
This easy-drinking ale is as light and bright as its name suggests, with a tartness that doesn’t overpower the beer. It’s a limited release, so grab a pack while you can. Four-pack: $10. The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com Mar/Apr 2021
Heavy Riff Brewing Co. Love Gun
Heavy Riff’s vanilla-forward cream ale balances its soft body with a light crispness and registers only 4.6% on the ABV scale. Its taste will satisfy the cream soda lover in all of us. Four-pack: $9. Heavy Riff Brewing Co., 6413 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, heavyriffbrewing.com
WellBeing Brewing Co. Victory Wheat
If you’re looking for a post-gym beer, look no further then this citrusy, NA wheat beer that’s loaded with electrolytes and brewed with orange zest. Four-pack: $11. WellBeing Brewing Co., wellbeingbrewing.com
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IT TAKES TWO Call it a boilermaker, a two-step or simply a shot and a beer – whatever name you assign this classic dive bar combo, it will spark joy. Typically, the pairing calls for a whiskey shot either plunked into a pint of stout or slammed and chased by chugging a cold, cheap lager, but sometimes we’re feelin’ fancy and want to mix things up. Whether you’re cheersing your new best friend at last call or just your cat from across the couch, give these
Miller High Life + Aperol This pairing went semi-viral in 2019 thanks to Baltimore’s Wet City Brewing, where it’s served with a lemon twist. Light and fizzy with a good balance of bitter and fruity notes, it tastes like summer.
Old Bakery Beer Co. Blimey + Bacardi Superior Rum We overheard a stranger order this combo one night at Up-Down STL and immediately chimed in with an order of our own. We were surprised by just how refreshing and at-home the rum tastes when dropped in a light, limey brew.
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Civil Life Brewing Co. The Angel & The Sword + California Fernet The Lucky Accomplice lends its namesake to this combo featured on its drink menu as an alternative to the classic Busch and Jameson. Nothing says bartender’s best friend like a local craft beer and a shot of Fernet.
Brick River Cider Co. Firehouse Rose + Pinckney Bend Distillery Handcrafted Gin Gin pairs beautifully with anything sweet, pink and bubbly. Here, the spirit’s botanicals lend complexity and depth to the cider’s light apple flavor.
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Big Shark Grapefruit Radler + tequila Less a traditional boilermaker and more of an easy, boozy paloma, this duo is perfect for turning up on a patio. Any tequila goes great here – we love it with an aged version, but you really can’t go wrong.
Modern Brewery Citrapolis IPA + amaro A slug of Cappelletti Amaro Sfumato Rabarbaro is a shockingly tasty addition to a frosty pint of Citrapolis. The rich and smoky rhubarb flavors in this particular amaro balance the bright citrus and hoppy IPA bitterness. Mar/Apr 2021
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
boozy pairs a shot. – Michelle Volansky
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PARTNER CONTENT
Medical marijuana gathers steam in Missouri BY L AU R E N HE A L EY
Although a bill legalizing medical marijuana in Missouri passed in late 2018, it took nearly two years for that medicine to start becoming available locally for patients. Now, Swade Cannabis Dispensary has opened locations in St. Peters and Ellisville, with three more planned to open in St. Louis in the coming months. Swade is a luxury cannabis company offering a premium experience at each of its locations. All have a similar upscale vibe but with their own twists that tie into the community. “We want to educate people and work to end the stigma attached to cannabis and not feel ashamed of exploring plant-based medicine,” said
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Jack Haddox, director of dispensary operations. The flagship spot in the Grove is slated to open in April with a bright, colorful ambiance and a large mural in true Grove fashion. In May, a Delmar Loop location with musical memorabilia decor is set to open across from the Pageant, while a Cherokee Street storefront will channel the historic district’s rustic feel. “We sourced local architect Min Plus, who utilized design elements informed by nature – exposed beams, recycled materials – and really brought the community into each location,” said Melissa Khan, director of marketing. Upon entering a Swade
Dispensary, guests are greeted by a product specialist who asks to see your photo ID and medical marijuana card (instructions on how to obtain a card are provided at swadecannabis. com). “They are warm, friendly and extremely knowledgeable and can speak to how certain products help with different medical conditions and will tailor recommendations based on your specific needs,” Haddox said. “We take detailed notes, so if something doesn’t work out for you, come back and we’ll find something new to try.” As medical marijuana is just getting started in Missouri, supply is currently limited but continually expanding.
PHOTOS COURTESY SWADE DISPENSARY
Gummies in a variety of flavors, and occasionally, beverages like lemonade and orange soda are available. Pre-packaged marijuana flower is offered in a few different strains, and prerolled joints and pre-packed chillums (glass smoking devices) are also popular choices. In the coming months, look for numerous additional strains, and a wider variety of product types, such as edibles, tinctures, topicals, pills and much more. “If you can think of it having THC, we will have it eventually,” Haddox said.
For more information, visit swadecannabis.com
This advertisement is intended only for Missouri medical marijuana patients.
Mar/Apr 2021
BACKYARD BREWERY Our guide to recreating a classic brewery experience at ho me
BY A DA M ROTHBA RTH // PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA H A ROLD // ILLUSTR ATION BY VIDHYA NAGA R A JA N
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ormally, for a beer issue, I’d want to write something on brewery hopping, or maybe deep dive the offerings of one excellent spot; but these aren’t normal times. Since I’m not dining out at the moment, and not all breweries have patios to drink on, I decided that instead of visiting a bunch of hip spots all over town, I’d bring them to me. So I set out to create a classic brewery experience at home by finding some of the coolest and most fun things our local scene has to offer and arranging for them to converge on one evening, safely, in a friend’s backyard. To achieve a real brewery-level experience, I first thought about what the main components of a great brewery visit are, since it isn’t just about the beer. While it’s impossible to fully capture the modern, bright feel of Rockwell Beer Co. or the seasoned warmth of the Schlafly Tap Room, you can definitely approximate them in broader strokes. I decided that planning this night would have to involve four elements: ambience, beer, food and people. The people were easy: I called a couple of my favorite dining partners, and as soon as I mentioned beer and pretzels, we had a date on the books. Touchdown. Ambiance demanded a little more work. I started by thinking about what I expect to see and feel when I go to a brewery. For one, fire was necessary, because it was supposed to be chilly the evening we’d chosen (and also because I love sitting outside at breweries). We wanted a breezy, sporty vibe, so opposite we started by page: jeff hooking up a hardesty of huge projector narrow gauge and showing brewing co. slam dunk pictured with compilations double dryand old Super hopped fallen Bowl highlights flag and brummel; this against the side page: schlafly of their house. tap room's For music, we sausage and built a relaxed kraut plate playlist full of songs by Mar/Apr 2021
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Imperial milk stout that stops just shy of going too hard, and Modern Brewery’s terrific Pie, Felicia, a tart and jammy fruited sour brewed with peach, apricot, vanilla and brown sugar.
schlafly's scotch ale and park lager
Full and tired (and maybe a little drunk) from hours of backyard brewery bliss, we declined to continue past this point, unfortunately foregoing the appetizing Urban Chestnut Brewing Co./U.R.B. take-and-bake pizza we’d gotten for dessert, which we’d scheduled alongside a digestif of Modern Brewery’s bourbon barrel-aged Looted Art imperial stout. Luckily, we’ll have a solid foundation to start with next time. The evening proved that it’s still possible to have it all, or at least to safely put together a fun and surprising beercentric evening. In the end, though the way we visit breweries has changed immensely, it’s still possible to both support your favorite local spots and have a great time doing it.
OUR PICKS Fleetwood Mac, Paul Simon, Tom Petty and other rockers of yore. My friends had a big German-style table in the backyard, as well as some hanging lights, which didn’t hurt at all. By the time we started cracking cold ones, it actually sort of felt like we were hanging on the patio of one of our favorite spots.
round was Main & Mill Brewing Co.’s well-balanced Belgian Wit, which contains a spicy blend of orange peel and coriander. We paired the first round of sips with some hearty starters: onion rings and some marvelous pretzel monkey bread from Perennial on Lockwood, and rustic beer bread from Schlafly Tap Room.
For brews and food, I really wanted it to feel like we were in a tasting room, so I picked up a mixture of things I either already love or had wanted to try. We started out on the lighter side with Schlafly’s tasty and attractively canned Park Lager and a coveted fourpack of the rarely brewed Scotch Ale, a dark, caramelly beer that’s perfect for cool weather. Also part of the first
hen we moved on to some heavier stuff. Earlier in the week, I’d gone up to Florissant to pick up some cans from cult-level New England-style IPA masters Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.; the Double Dry-Hopped Fallen Flag was refreshing, with a rich depth from the sharp, hoppy flavor you expect from the best NEIPAs. We also tasted the
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Brummel, a so-weird-you-can’t-nottry-it sour IPA brewed with lactose and cassia bark, aged on blackberries and vanilla. Full of funky bitterness and waves of sweet fruit, it harbors a powerful and strange combination of flavors that hits unlike anything else in town. Also during this round, we noshed on Schlafly’s sausage and kraut dish, which comes with three tasty varieties of sausage, a killer potato salad and some delicious beer mustard. To call it a perfect pairing with the Fallen Flag would be an understatement. The journey toward heaviness continued with Perennial Artisan Ales’ chocolate-y, coconut-laden Fantastic Voyage, a delicious and dynamic
Schlafly Park Lager Schlafly Scotch Ale Main & Mill Brewing Co. Belgian Wit Ale Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Double Dry-Hopped Fallen Flag Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Brummel Perennial Artisan Ales Fantastic Voyage Modern Brewery Pie, Felicia Modern Brewery Bourbon Barrel-Aged Looted Art
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members
only B Y C A T H E R I N E K L E N E // P H O T O B Y I Z A I A H J O H N S O N
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You drink the beer, wear the merch and recommend your favorite local brewery to anyone in earshot. You spend an inordinate amount of time in lines to purchase rare bottles (or at least you did in the Before Times). Cement your adoration – and skip the lines – with a local brewery membership. Breweries typically announce memberships once a year, and you’d be wise to click that sign-up link at the first tweet – spots go fast. Most breweries require a fee to join, which pays in advance for several rare beers members pick up throughout the year. 2nd Shift Brewing co-owner Libby Crider said the fee upon joining The Crider Collective (TCC) helps cover end-of-year costs and also allows the brewing team to plan beers that require more time and expense. “That upfront cost helps us get through a more difficult time but also gives us some more playing room,” Crider said. “We’re not scrambling to figure out which beers to make. We already have a clear mind of what we want to do, and we have the funds that allow us to invest in the ingredients and equipment.” Wellspent Brewing Co. head brewer Kyle Kohlmorgen launched The Well in late 2020 as a way to connect with
patrons who used to provide feedback and support in the tasting room before the pandemic. “We wanted a sense of community around beers that we were excited about,” he said. ”It’s been a hard year … [and] people still care and believe in us and want us to succeed.” Side Project Brewing started La Coterie in 2018 as a way to thank loyal patrons who had supported the brewery since its opening. Members receive $100 worth of the brewery’s “white label” beers, as well as the opportunity to purchase limited release beers online before they’re made available to the public. Other perks of a brewery membership can include discounts on beer and merchandise purchases at the brewery, and most celebrate with an annual members-only party. Each year, people can choose to renew their memberships before new ones are offered to the public. The best part about a membership, though, is the chance to connect with the hardworking folks who brew the beers you love. Crider said TCC members are a tight-knit community and a second brewery family. “These members have become close personal friends, and they become invested in the brewery,” she said.
JOIN THE CLUB Perennial Artisan Ales’ Societe du Chene Sign-up Fee: $450 Join: Late summer – early fall 2021 Beer you’ll get: One bottle each of 14 barrel-aged beers, including rarities like barrelaged Abraxas and Maman, and the ability to purchase several bottles before their public sale. 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com
Wellspent Brewing Co. ’ s T h e W e l l Sign-up Fee: $300 up front (or $360 paid over one year) Join: November 2021 Beer you’ll get: A monthly share of eight 16-ounce cans, which will contain two members-only beers with each pickup. 2917 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.696.2919, wellspentbeer.com
S i d e P r oj e c t Brewing’s L a Coterie Sign-up Fee: $125 Join: Names may be submitted online throughout the year for a lottery that takes place in the first quarter of each year. The next lottery will be held in early 2022. Beer you’ll get: $100 worth of Side Project’s “white label” beers as well as the opportunity to purchase highly soughtafter bottles like Oude Fermier
Mar/Apr 2021
Vintage 2019 and barrel-aged Ambiente before the general public. 7458 Manchester Ave., Maplewood, sideprojectbrewing.com
2nd Shift Brewing’s The Crider Collective Sign-up Fee: $125 Join: December 2021 Beer you’ll get: Packages that include nine special-release beers throughout the year and the opportunity to purchase more before public release. 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9012, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Main & Mill B r ew i n g Co. ’ s Brewery Membership Sign-up Fee: $79 for basic, $150 for plus and $1,500 for top tier Join: Due to the pandemic, Main & Mill extended its 2020 membership through 2021, so while the program may reopen later this year, it may be delayed to 2022. Beer you’ll get: A basic membership offers the ability to purchase bottles online. A plus membership also includes two exclusive beers. A top-tier membership grants you 20 bottles of barrel-aged stout customized to your preference with various adjuncts, plus a four-pack each month. 240 E. Main St., Festus, 636.543.3031, mainandmill.com
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Local Beer Festivals Schlafly Stout and Oyster Festival
March 19 and 20 – Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com This year, hardy-beer-andbivalve enthusiasts can use the Biergarten drive-thru to pick up cooked oyster specials and special beers like Schlafly’s Oyster Stout. Pre-order online.
Midwest Maifest
May 16 – New Town Amphitheater, St. Charles, midwestmaifest.org Celebrate traditional German spring beer from locals like Good News Brewing Co. and O’Fallon Brewery and enjoy live entertainment like Übercool German Party Band and accordionist Wolfgang Volz while you sip. Free admission.
Buzz’d Beer Festival
April 1 – Online, Facebook: The Old Bakery Beer Co. The Old Bakery Beer Co.’s annual fest is going virtual this year, with mixed cases from locals like Earthbound Beer, Brick River Cider Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co., themed swag and playlists designed to bring the festivities to your home. Tickets available online.
tournament, a car show and more. Free admission.
St. Charles Oktoberfest
Sept. 24 to 26 – Frontier Park, St. Charles, Facebook: Saint Charles Oktoberfest Get ready to oompah: St.
Charles’ popular fall beer festival features a beer garden and a range of brewers. Free admission.
May 22 – Winghaven Blvd., O’Fallon, Missouri, petrichorbeer.com This tasting event and competition sees homebrewers putting their own spin on wort (one of the basic components of beer) provided by Petrichor Brewing, which will brew and release the winning beer this summer. Free admission.
Ferguson Brewing Co. Chamomile Honey Wheat Brewed using the latest edition of the classic Cascade hops, look for notes of pine and citrus balanced by the sweet, herbal flavors provided by chamomile and honey.
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O’Fallon Brewery Foglight Hazy IPA This lower ABV, double dry-hopped IPA features notes of both citrus and tropical fruits. Look for strong mango flavor with grapefruit and pineapple up front and sweet orange at the finish.
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Earthbound Beer Blood Dream Blood Dream is the first of three braggots – beers brewed using honey as a large portion of the fermentable sugar – Earthbound has in the works. The addition of strawberries and Thai basil during the brewing process makes for a tart, complex, high-gravity beer.
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Third Wheel Brewing Free the Sun Fruited Sour The addition of Lactobacillus (the bacteria used to ferment foods like yogurt) during the brewing process for this “smoothie-style” sour lends it a tang and creamy fullness that’s balanced by zesty orange and sweet vanilla.
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Rockwell Beer Co. Sumac Suitcase This amber-colored, mixed-fermentation saison is a collaboration between Rockwell and Little Fish Brewing in Athens, Ohio. The beer’s name comes from the wild sumac Little Fish’s head brewer Sean White foraged locally and brought with him to St. Louis in his suitcase.
These are the releases we have our eyes on this spring. – Liz Wolfson
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SPRING FORECAST //
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May 1 – Downtown Perryville, Facebook: Homebrew Block Party 7.1 | Totally 80’s Tease your hair and break out your favorite pair of acid-washed jeans for this ’80s-themed fest showcasing
L at
Sept. 17 and 18 – Veterans Memorial Fountain, Belleville, bellevilleoktoberfest.com This autumnal fest features numerous German-style beers as well as unique events like a stein-holding contest, cornhole
Winghaven Wort Share & Homebrew Competition
Home Brew Block Party
a eM
Belleville Oktoberfest
beers from more than 70 amateur and professional brewers. Tickets available online.
may
Old Bakery Beer Co. Oh Yeah! Fruit Punch Berliner Weiss This tart and fruity beer promises to cool you down while taking you back to the days of shoving a plastic straw into a box of bright red punch. (Warning: Sipping may cause a giant talking pitcher of punch to bust through your wall.)
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
The Caramel Room, 1600 N. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.615.2480, caramelroom.com
AARON CUMMINGS
As chef de cuisine at The Caramel Room, the downtown event space owned by catering company 23 City Blocks, Aaron Cummings oversees every aspect of the kitchen, from hiring and training personnel to creating unique dishes and ensuring service during events runs on time. Here, the kitchen maestro discusses some of his unique managerial techniques and how they’ve helped him cultivate a healthier work environment; how sobriety has benefited his career; and how his lifelong obsession with organization has set him up for success. – Liz Wolfson
“I could go on and on a b o u t o r g a n i z a t i o n . My first
job was as a [supermarket] bagger and cashier. When there were no customers, they would send us to the aisles to frontface everything. I would look down the aisles after I was finished, and I was just so elated and so happy that all the labels were facing out. It just gave me joy.” “A t o n e p o i n t i n c u l i n a r y s c h o o l , I wa s c h o p p i n g g a r l i c , and one of the chef-instructors
walked by. He looked at my station and looked at me, and I was all shaking, like, ‘Oh God, what is he going to say?’ And he said, ‘If you keep this organization up, you’ll go far in this business.’ I was like, ‘Yes!’ – it was validation for me. I was like, ‘OK, see, people do appreciate it.’”
“ I ’ v e b e e n i n r e s ta u r a n t s b a s i c a l ly m y e n t i r e l i f e .
I love restaurants. I love hospitality. I love serving people. I love when people smile. … I went from being a server and a host to bartending and bartended for many years. I think that’s where I got this habit of talking to people and working really fast and multitasking.”
“ O u r b i g g e s t t h i n g i s : How do we bring restaurant quality to a catering company or large venues? You
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“I like to pull my te am out of the kitchen every once i n a w h i l e . We’ll sit around a circular
go to a lot of weddings and the food’s pretty typical. But we wanted to elevate that and to bring that fine-dining feel. That was the bar that [the owners] set – whatever we do, make it fine dining, make it the best we can.” “The main difference b e t w e e n r e s ta u r a n t s a n d e v e n t [ s p a c e s ] is in the service.
Restaurants are calling orders to a line of chefs who bring their dishes up to the pass, in sync with the other chefs on that line. With events, most things are highly organized down to the number of dishes
[and] to the minute they are expected to leave the kitchen. During service, my job is to make sure that timeline is fervidly upheld and ensure the restaurant-quality dishes we create hold their integrity. The large amount of dishes at one time, on time, is the thrilling challenge that makes our brand of catering so exciting and rewarding.” “I’ve been sober for about s i x y e a r s . It’s not something that
I necessarily bring up, but it’s definitely something I’m always open to talk about because in our industry, drinking, partying,
table and we’ll just kind of talk or I’ll read them something I’ve read in a book, and we have an open discussion. It feels like a time for us to get to know one another aside from work habits. It’s almost like going out to happy hour, but you get paid to do it. I’ve been doing that for the past four years, and the chefs really enjoy it.” “A l s o , a t t h a t l i t t l e r o u n d ta b l e , i f s o m e t h i n g ’ s b o t h e r i n g s o m e o n e , that’s
the perfect time to talk about it in a less aggressive way. I’ve gotten some flack from people because they think it’s ‘too soft.’ But I think that’s what more of these kitchens need, a more gentle approach.” Mar/Apr 2021
PHOTO COURTESY OF JOAN FISCHER
what I knew about the restaurant scene, particularly watching television – you’ve got the Gordon Ramsays and these chefs that are just kind of mean, you know? There’s this idea that professional kitchens are very masculine-driven and mean and uncomfortable. And I am an openly gay man. I was like, there’s no way I’m going to survive in that kind of atmosphere. So it always – it terrified me, you know?”
“ B e i n g s o b e r h a s ta k e n m e p l ac e s I d i d n ’ t t h i n k I c o u l d g o . It helped me wake up on
time, to be to work a little early, to help set the kitchen up – because the biggest thing in any industry is to be set up for success. There have been many times in my life when I wasn’t set up to succeed; I kind of got thrown to the winds to figure it out. So I make sure that I do my part to set people up to succeed. At the end of the day, that’s what a sober life has allowed me to do.”
CHEF DE CUISINE, THE CARAMEL ROOM
“ I ’ v e a lway s wa n t e d t o c o o k p r o f e s s i o n a l ly. [But]
they kind of go hand in hand. But they don’t have to.”
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
LLWELYN’S PUB BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH
Behnen explained. “I don’t think you can ever leave with a clean plate. If you did, you were really hungry.” On that note, like any pub worth its salt, Llwelyn’s array of beers and whiskeys makes it a prime location to toast up with the gang. And according to Behnen, alongside Growler’s Pub (RIP) and Cicero’s (double RIP), Llwelyn’s was one of the first spots in town to offer a large selection of craft beer.
Llwelyn’s Pub’s adaptability is one of the reasons it’s reigned as a cherished institution for over 40 years. Opened in the Central West End in 1975 as a joint venture between Jack Brangle and Jon Dressel, it quickly became known as a local hotspot for Welsh food; when Chris Marshall bought the restaurant in the late ’90s, the menu opened up a bit, according to current president Tom Behnen. “[Marshall] decided to go more Celtic, so more Scottish and Irish food,” Behnan explained. “Everything’s
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evolved into this proto-American Celtic thing.” Now, with five locations, the local franchise’s food pulls customers to Webster Groves, St. Peters, St. Charles, Soulard and O’Fallon, Missouri. Across the menu, dishes have gained intense loyalty from a customer base that loves the restaurants’ hearty, comfort food vibe. “It’s funny, every year we do a menu meeting, and we just can’t cut anything off,” Behnen confided. “Because everything’s a favorite.” This extends from the
famous steak-and-cheese sandwich and the shepherd’s pie – both favorites of Behnen’s – to an award-winning chicken chili and a fish-and-chips set that comes with a tartar sauce that Behnen said is the best in town. “Everything ‘Buffalo’ sells,” he added, laughing. “It’s so weird. We can put Buffalo sauce on anything and it’ll sell.” Notably substantial portions provide a foil for an evening of drinking, either as a base layer or as hangover food. “Our portions are huge,”
Finally, a most important question: Has the pandemic derailed this year’s St. Patrick’s Day festivities? Not especially. “We’re open as usual, you know?” Behnen said. “We’re not doing anything stupid or crazy. We’re going to wait for next year on that.”
Multiple locations, llywelynspub.com
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PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
the patio at llwelyn's pub in webster groves
While the food and drinks have continued flowing, it’s really the welcoming, inclusive atmosphere that’s kept the spot open all these years, especially through the pandemic. “We’re trying to be a little normal,” Behnen said, pointing out that they’re still enforcing masks and social distancing. “Everyone’s out there acting crazy, but you can come to Llwelyn’s for a little bit of normalcy. We’re a community, a gathering space. A pub is an escape.” To that effect, the franchise’s deep roots have helped it weather this storm. “We take care of the communities around us,” Behnen shared. “We give back to all the communities. We are part of the community.” With five locations still in the game, it’s clear that the communities have stepped up too. “The turnout we had during summer and fall was awesome,” Behnen recalled.
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