SUMMER DRINKING preview
taking tiki to mount rushmore heights at the libertine, p. 36
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REVIEW
FOOD TRUCKS
P A R I G I
HEAT WAVE
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P. 29
B E S T P. 43
ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY
May 2016
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M AY 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 5 What was your college drink of choice?
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Hamm's Special Light. It's super cheap.
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2016 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in
7UP and cherry vodka with a shot of grenadine basically a drunk Shirley Temple
Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Tiffany Leong Underage: beer from Catherine Klene who'd ever serve us. Kristin Schultz Of age: Yukon Jack. Emily Lowery Yeah, I know. Michelle Volansky Jonathan Gayman, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Katie Herrera, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene, Tiffany Leong, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Kathleen Adams, Hannah Ballard, Christian Deverger
whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.
EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 May 2016
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contents MAY 2016
editors' picks
29
ELIXIR Some like it hot
11
by katie herrera
EAT THIS Walking Taco at Cha Cha Chow
by meera nagarajan
30
VEGETIZE IT Mushroom moussaka
by kellie hynes
13
HIT LIST 5 new places to try this month
by tiffany leong and kristin schultz
33
MAKE THIS Shrimp roll
by dee ryan
16
FIXATIONS What's at the top of our shopping list right now
by heather hughes, catherine klene, tiffany leong, meera nagarajan and kristin schultz
last course 50
STUFF TO DO by kristin schultz
reviews 19
NEW AND NOTABLE Parigi
by michael renner
WHAT I DO Todd Geisert of Farm to You Market
by kristin schultz
22
Features
Sheesh Restaurant
36
LUNCH RUSH by hilary hitchcock 25
NIGHTLIFE The Preston
by matt berkley
dine & drink PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
54
27
A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
A PREVIEW OF SUMMER DRINKING by kristin schultz
43
brodetto from parigi p. 19
BEST NEW FOOD TRUCKS by catherine klene, tiffany leong and kristin schultz
COVER DETAILS A Preview of Summer Drinking Tiki drinks, served at The Libertine in presidential fashion, are all the rage this summer. Learn more about what else to sip as patio season heats up in A Preview of Summer Drinking on p. 36. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
by glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and ted and jamie kilgore May 2016
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publisher’s perspective
I always look forward to the start of summer, marked by the first Food Truck Friday of the year – the convergence of new faces, old friends, kids inhaling cupcakes, over-stimulated pups and conversations sans keyboards. A food truck tribe has emerged in St. Louis with people from all walks of life gathering to try menus from all over the world. The scene has evolved considerably from a novelty of buying dinner off decked-out trucks. Now, it’s
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more about the delivery of a social experience, changing how we dine and interact alfresco. I continue to be impressed by the steady growth of the industry and the evolution of food truck concepts. Even the most seasoned foodies can push their comfort zones as truck operators perfect menus and mobile test kitchens. Fifteen Food Truck Friday trucks in 2011 has grown to more than 30 trucks in 2016. When successful, they often spin off into exciting
brick and mortar establishments like Lulu’s Local Eatery, Seoul Taco, The Sweet Divine and Guerrilla Street Food. On the flip side, some brick and mortars are experimenting with on-demand dining by launching new trucks like Mission Taco Joint and Revel Kitchen. We’ve made a lot of friends since Food Truck Friday started – hard working, dedicated operators committed to adding dimension to our food scene. Each season the
allyson mace serves up pnoy kings, one of the 2016 best new food trucks; check out the full list on p. 43.
truck lineup attracts thousands of people who picnic, play and people-watch in the park. Like them, we think camaraderie and community are delicious. Welcome Food Truck Friday season and join us for the kickoff, Friday, May 13. Bring your blankets and your appetite!
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
FIVE YEARS STRONG, AND CUISINE, COMMUNITY A N D C U LT U R E ST I L L C A S U A L LY C O L L I D E AT FOOD TRUCK FRIDAY IN TOWER GR OVE PARK .
Allyson Mace Founder and publisher
May 2016
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editors' picks
EAT THIS
Food Truck Fridays aren’t complete without a WALKING TACO from CHA CHA CHOW. Moist chicken fried in a crunchy panko-cornflake breading arrives steaming hot, drizzled with a spicy chipotle aioli and finished with cool, crunchy red cabbage and jalapeno slaw, all wrapped in a flour tortilla and tucked in a cute, compostable bamboo cone. The PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
Sauce team has a serious relationship with this hand-held treat, which is now a weekly special on Tuesdays at Cha Cha on Shaw, its new brick and mortar on The Hill.
CHA CHA ON SHAW, 4916 SHAW BLVD., ST. LOUIS, 314.833.6655, CHACHACHOW.COM
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hit list
5 new places to try this month
barbecue plate at weber grill restaurant
WEBER GRILL RESTAURANT
PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN
Firing up the backyard grill is as sure a sign of spring as Cardinals baseball, but if you’d rather leave the job to professionals, then head to the Saint Louis Galleria, where Weber Grill Restaurant has opened its first St. Louis-area location. Here, almost every item on the extensive menu takes a pass over a ripping hot Weber kettle. If barbecue is your preference, check out the hickory-smoked baby back ribs with a gentle brush of Weber’s sweet hickory barbecue sauce. Order it with a side of creamy blue cheese-pecan coleslaw. For a lighter meal, try the meltingly tender salmon, grilled on a cedar plank and touched with a bourbon sauce for smoky, caramelized edges.
Weber Grill Restaurant, 1147 Saint Louis Galleria St., Richmond Heights, 314.930.3838, webergrillrestaurant.com/location/st-louis
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hit oflist p. 2
2
Forgetting your lunch doesn’t mean scrounging for day-old doughnuts in the conference room. Drop that stale tiger tail and head to Shift, Test Kitchen and Take Out, the latest concept from restaurateur Dave Bailey. This carryout-only eatery serves as a test kitchen for forthcoming Bailey concepts. Barbecue is the fare of the moment. While the menu changes daily, keep an eye out for the tender, smoked brisket served with a sweet Kansas City-style sauce and a side of creamy mac and cheese with a kick of jalapeno. The chopped pork belly sandwich is a fatty, smoky indulgence that comes with spicy firecracker sauce with cherry notes and crunchy purple cabbage slaw. Grab a cup of ice cream on your way out (look for the blueberry pie), write your name on the lid, and hide it in the freezer for an afternoon snack.
SHIFT, TEST KITCHEN & TAKE OUT
FOOD TRUCKS Don’t miss two food trucks that recently hit the streets, too. Angie Saville rode her winnings from July 2015’s Budweiser Bud & Burgers competition all the way to her own food truck, Angie Burger. Samantha Mitchell left the hallowed kitchens of Annie Gunn’s and now revs the engines – and the flattop – at Farmtruk, offering locally sourced, farm-fresh fare. Find out why Angie Burger and Farmtruk made the Hit List and our rundown of the best St. Louis new food trucks on p. 43.
Shift, Test Kitchen & Take Out, 313 N. 11th St., St. Louis, 314.932.7443, shifttestkitchen.com
Soup from Wentzville, honey from Fulton, rice from Braggadocio and pork from Washington all get a spot on the shelves at Farm to You Market. Todd Geisert Farms co-owners Todd and Katie Geisert take the idea of a farmers market to another level, stocking seasonal produce, farm-fresh eggs, bacon, ice cream, milk, pasta and more from Missouri farmers and vendors from primarily within a 200mile radius. After all that shopping, grab a seat in The Barn Yard Cafe for a deli sandwich or reserve your seat for a monthly chef’s dinner.
PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; BURGER PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
FARM TO YOU MARKET
mediterranean grilled vegetable salad at weber grill restaurant shift, test kitchen & take out
todd geisert Learn more about the farmer behind Farm to You Market in What I Do on p. 54.
May 2016
burger from farmtruk
Farm to You Market, 5025 Old Highway 100, Washington, 844.682.2266, farmtoyoumarket.com
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Fixations From heirloom seeds to decadent marshmallow pies, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds May is the perfect month to sow fruits and veggies like peppers, eggplant and cucumbers, and we give the seeds at Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. two green thumbs up. Grab seeds for Missouri Wonder pole beans, Table Dainty squash and Tigger melons to create a fresh-picked dish from your own backyard. $2 to $4 each. Garden Heights Nursery, 1605 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.645.7333, gardenheights.com
Marshmallow Pies The marshmallow pie at Kakao is no mellow mallow. Fluffy, gooey vanilla bean marshmallow and crunchy chopped pecans are sandwiched between two dark chocolate sheets and dusted with powdered sugar. Treat yo’ self. $4. Kakao, 7272 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.645.4446; 7720 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.726.7974, kakaochocolate.com
Tallow and Lard Soaps Maven Bath & Candle Co. and Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions have joined forces to produce Old World, all-natural soaps made with tallow and lard for a luxurious, velvety texture. We love the fresh, creamy fragrance of the neutral Tallow Soap and the manly, resinous scent of the Pine Tar Soap. $10. Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com
Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth Any vermouth that makes it into a cocktail should be good enough to sip on its own. The complex, not overly sweet Antica Formula is as happy over ice as it is in a Manhattan. Pour a glass, take in the subtle clove spice and rich dried fruit notes against its vanilla foundation and join in our obsession. $15. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com
Heat by Bill Buford In his book, Heat, writer Bill Buford embarks on a delicious quest to learn the intricacies of Italian cooking. He starts by working in the kitchen of Mario Batali’s New York-based Babbo and ends up in Italy making pasta. Each page inspires and incites cravings. $16. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com
Caramel cake at Drake’s Place A recent trip to Drake’s Place in Ferguson fulfilled our dessert dreams. Miss Beverly’s ultra-tender caramel cake is topped with a thick, glazey caramel icing that begs for a steaming cup of coffee. Slice: $3, 12-inch round: $20. 701 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, 314.736.1140, drakesplacestl.com
4 Hands City Wide We’re showing our STL pride with City Wide, a new American pale ale from 4 Hands Brewing Co. At 5.5-percent ABV, we’ll sip the summer away in good conscience, as 50 cents from each fourpack sold benefits a local nonprofit. $10. Most major bottle shops and groceries, 4handsbrewery.com
Think.Eat.Live. Gluten-Free Pancake and Waffle Mix Based out of Wildwood, Think.Eat.Live.’s sunflower seed flour-based blend adds a subtle nuttiness to breakfast with enough sweetness to skip the syrup. It also packs in enough protein and fiber to keep you full until lunchtime. $9. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
parigi's take on a caesar salad
new and notable Parigi BY MICHAEL RENNER PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
W
hen I overheard a woman at Parigi, Ben Poremba’s swanky new Italian restaurant, say, “I like going someplace that doesn’t feel like I’m in St. Louis,” I knew exactly what she meant. Don’t misunderstand – I like the causal, farm-y decor dominating the local restaurant scene lately: exposed brick walls, repurposed this-and-that, the warm, amber flicker of ubiquitous Edison bulbs suspended from wood beam ceilings. It’s all quite cozy, like soft jeans and a well-worn cotton sweatshirt. But it’s also nice to dress up sometimes.
n e w a n d n o t a b l e PA R I G I p . 1 9 / l u n c h r u s h S H E E S H R E S TA U R A N T p . 2 2 / n i g h t l i f e T H E P R E S T O N p . 2 5 May 2016
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entire section dedicated to beef (dal macellaio, “from the butcher”) and one for side dishes (contorni). With separate menus for nightly specials, wine and dessert, plotting your evening requires light sustenance from antipasti. Pop a few kalamata and Castelvetrano green olives into your mouth while you strategize, and note the creamy texture and distinctive taste that house-marinating in oil, herbs and lemon brings. Tonno fagioli, a salad of tender heirloom white beans with shaved cured tuna brightened with lemon, would also work. Or the lattuga grigliata, half wedges of charred romaine drizzled with tangy Caesar dressing and topped with Parmesan. A slice of grilled bread with an oil-cured anchovy crowns the deconstructed salad.
reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
Pastas – both hand-cut and extruded inhouse – are major players, second only to meat. Slide a fork under a few casarecce noodles to see how their scroll shape grabs the hefty sauce, a heady, not-so-subtle mixture of greens, smoked ham and spicy shredded pork sausage. Spaghetti, bolstered by a light sauce of tomato, garlic, olive oil, butter, cheese and chile flakes, twirled neatly, relaxed but with good bite. BRODETTO An aromatic seafood stew with red wine vinegar, lemon and tomato
From the sleek stainless steel-and-white leather divan to the two-seat Louis XVstyle settee and chairs, Parigi is a stylish blend of modern Italian design and Old World French ornamentation. And that’s just the entryway. Parigi is Italian for “Paris,” which explains the French furniture and the French inflection on the Italian menu. Part of this is Poremba’s vision, something there’s no shortage of from the 36-yearold chef, restaurateur and culinary innovator who brought us a renovated old house for high-end dining (Elaia), a 1930s gas station refurbished into a hip wine bar (Olio) and a 19th century police horse stable repurposed as a fried chicken
AT A GLANCE Parigi
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and American whiskey eatery (Old Standard Fried Chicken) all off the same intersection in Botanical Heights. Executive chef and longtime friend of Poremba, Ramon Cuffie is the other visionary behind Parigi, having perfected regional Italian cuisines during his long stint at Bar Italia before mastering traditional French cooking while living in Avignon, France. Nomadic and largely self-taught, I’ve always thought Cuffie one of the more under-appreciated chefs in town. Parigi’s dinner menu follows the traditional Italian structure (antipasti, primi, secondi) with the addition of an
Where 8025 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.899.9767, parigistl.com
Don’t Miss Dishes Tonno fagioli, casarecce pasta, brodetto
The risotto changes frequently. One night, it was made with squid ink (risotto noir, if you will) and topped with thin slices of squid, the white flesh masquerading as mozzarella. The jet-black rice had a proper, creamy consistency and the ink imparted a delicate salinity, though the black pepper threatened to overwhelm. At this point you may be wondering when the French touch comes in. Think sauces. There’s nothing especially remarkable about a roasted chicken breast, but set in a silky, creamy, butterrich foie gras sauce, the elegant influence
Vibe Coolly sophisticated and gorgeously designed, but relaxed and blessedly quiet
of French technique and attention to detail could be tasted. Slicing through the coppery, crisp skin of the frenched breast allowed the juices to escape and mix with the fragrant sauce. Its simplicity was its sophistication. The chicken was roasted in an oven, a server explained, because that’s how Cuffie cooks: no fancy sous vide device, CVap ovens or other gadgets. Brodetto, a tomato-based fish stew popular along Italy’s Adriatic coast, was a pictureperfect bowl of snow-white fish, clams, mussels and head-on shrimp in a broth redolent with red wine vinegar and lemon zest. Like gumbo and bouillabaisse, Italian cooks from different regions have their own views about how to make brodetto. I don’t know from which region Cuffie draws inspiration, but I delved into his brodetto and did not come up for air until each shell was picked clean and every drop of the intoxicating broth was sopped up with the accompanying yeasty, crusty bread. Desserts on display in a case came from La Patisserie Chouquette, the French pastry shop Poremba co-owns across the street from Olio. The olive oil cake was sumptuously rich. Almond cream frangipan (sic, fittingly – Italian frangipani and French frangipane) was as velvety as it sounds. Inhabiting the former Finale space inside the high-end apartment high-rise Clayton on the Park, Parigi is Poremba’s biggest venture. While all his restaurants project vastly different vibes, they all share Poremba’s exquisite sense of design. A stunning chandelier in the private dining area consists of teardrop-shaped “netting” laced with hundreds of shimmering crystals. The pumpkin-orange banquette and booths, a bartender pointed out, are the same color once used in Ferraris. Only a banquette divides the bar and open dining room, but it’s remarkably quiet compared to most restaurants, making Parigi indeed feel like it's somewhere other than St. Louis. Sometimes wool slacks and a cashmere jacket feel just right.
Entree Prices $16 to $38
When Daily – 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.
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reviews LUNCH RUSH
Lunch Rush
SHEESH RESTAURANT BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Sheesh Restaurant stands out on South Grand for more than its Turkish cuisine. The place itself is striking, rich with colorful woven fabric (window treatments, upholstery, even the servers’ vests) and dripping with copper, from the low round table tops to the serving dishes, pitchers and plates. If Turkish food is as unfamiliar to you as it was to me, don’t worry. It shares many flavors and dishes with others in the Middle East and Mediterranean. But don’t stop at the hummus or falafel – here’s what to get at Sheesh.
CHICKEN DONER The chicken doner saw shaved white meat rotisserie chicken paired with tomatoes and pickles, topped with a garlicky tahini sauce. The pickles provided crunch and a burst of brine, while the sauce kept the pita-wrapped chicken moist and flavorful. chicken doner
EZOGELIN My meals at Sheesh started with a complimentary bowl of ezogelin, a Turkish soup whose unassuming appearance belied a rich complexity of flavor. The blend of lentils, bulgur and a spicy tomato base was topped with a sprinkle of mint for a savory, fresh balanced soup I’d happily have paid for.
FALAFEL WRAP Falafel can have a dry interior, but here the chickpea patties were tender and crumbly, absorbing the same tahini that appeared on the chicken doner. Packed with falafel, tomatoes and pickles, this wrap was filling without overwhelming. It’s an order that won’t make you too sluggish to go back to work.
TABBOULEH Of the several salads available, order the tabbouleh. The mix of ground wheat, cucumber, tomato, onion and fresh parsley was light and refreshing, with a bright lemon dressing – an ideal complement to more substantial lunch entrees.
Sheesh Restaurant 3226 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.833.4321, sheeshrestaurant.com
alongside grilled tomato and onion over a white and brown rice mix. Presentation was simple, but flavor wasn’t. Each element played an integral role in the whole – the meat was juicy and charred just enough to provide a distinct smoky flavor, the onion slices were browned and tender and the tomato’s acidity balanced the savory dish.
featuring carrot and mint added another layer of flavor.
BAKLAVA There’s nothing wrong with a lunch dessert. Three small squares of flaky, buttery, pistachio baklava weren’t too sweet or syrupy – this was the perfect end note for a filling meal.
C H I C K E N B I RYA N I
urfa kebab
URFA KEBAB The Urfa kebab was a skewer of grilled lamb served
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The chicken biryani offered generous chunks of grilled white meat chicken paired with plump raisins, chickpeas and brown rice. The combination of sweet and savory worked well together and a tangy yogurt sauce
baklava
THE DOWNSIDE Sheesh’s whole menu is available during lunch, but some entrees, like the chicken biryani, are only available in full dinner portions at full dinner prices. Though there’s something to be said for ample leftovers, I’d prefer to see a few more items on the lunch menu besides kebabs and wraps. The only thing to avoid is the Sheesh Special Salad, which was a letdown. With fried eggplant, chickpeas, pomegranate seeds and fried pita atop a bed of lettuce, the salad tasted less interesting than it sounded, with barely noticeable pieces of fried eggplant. May 2016
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nightlife
reviews
The Preston
NIGHTLIFE
BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
that incorporated blood orange, lime and sprigs of mint along with healthy doses of Novo Fogo cachaca and agave nectar. The Mayfair was another gorgeous treat, mixing Plymouth gin, an egg white, sugar, The Preston Sorel and a hit of 212 N. Kingshighway lemon. Bourbon fans Blvd., St. Louis, would enjoy Nancy’s 314.633.7800, Night Out, which theprestonstl.com merged black tea-andvanilla bean-infused Bulleit bourbon with Big O ginger liqueur and a splash of grapefruit juice. While meticulous and decadent in its bar program, The Preston artfully dodged the arrogant and precious tendency of too many high-end cocktail joints. If the signature drinks sound too sweet or contrived, forgo them entirely. A few sips of a simple, classic Manhattan or Pimm’s Cup will convince you how few equals this bar has in town. Feel free to go off menu.
W
ith imaginative cocktails, stellar small plates and a sexy, chic ambiance, The Preston is the shot of adrenaline The Chase Park Plaza has long needed. It emerged this winter in the former Cafe Eau Bistro location. Though the name Preston might invoke thoughts of that wimpy kid in grade school you hated (just me?), any residual childhood anger issues are dropped the moment you step into the warm, smartly updated space. The splendiferous name comes from Preston J. Bradshaw, the local architect who originally designed The Chase in the early 1920s. A tasteful blend of contemporary and classic, The Preston would no doubt make its namesake proud. Slick maple flooring adds warmth, a gleaming white marble
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bar adds luxury and a gallery wall adds imagination. Comfortable modern chairs surround butcher block-type tables, offering a mellow intersection of urban and rural. A classic hotel club room in the best sense, it’s OK to wear jeans, but a decent sportcoat should probably accompany them. The wine list was well curated, and there were a handful of microbrew bottles someone obviously put some serious thought into, but the cocktails on my visit were so well executed that it would have been a sin to focus on anything else. At $8 to $12, the signature drinks and the modern classics were well worth the price of admission. The bar staff swiftly delivered standouts like the Forest Park Carnival, a luscious take on a classic caipirinha
The kitchen likewise fired up impressive selections. Around $10 apiece and nothing more than $20, the approachable yet upscale menu of small plates was as eclectic as it was delightful – drinking food rather than drunk food. Five entree-style super tapas were more than enough for two people. The best of these was the bay scallop chowder, a savory-sweet, bacon-laced clam chowder topped with a half-dozen good size bay scallops that were jealously fought over. A layer of sunchoke puree served as a base for the charred octopus plate, which paired healthy portions of grilled octopus in a smoked paprika vinaigrette with brown butter gnocchi. Though they may sound too simple or trendy, the crispy battered spicy Korean chicken wings were worth coming back for. The smart surroundings and shareable plates make for an ideal gathering spot for groups or date night couples looking for a fun alternative to the whole formal, white linen tablecloth scene. The atmosphere is easygoing, as is the well-groomed crowd of all ages. Buzzing with energy, the only disappointing thing about The Preston was that it didn’t open sooner.
ORDER IT: The Preston
From left, the vibrant Forest Park Carnival and The Mayfair
The charred octopus plate, one of several generous small plates
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dine
& drink
aviation cocktail
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Welcome outdoor dining season with the 2014 Torres Verdeo Verdejo from the Rueda region of Spain, where the Torres family has GLENN BARDGETT made exciting wines Member of the Missouri Wine since 1870. Crisp and and Grape Board and wine slightly floral with a director at Annie Gunn’s refreshing lime aroma, lovers of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio will be smitten with its youth and palatepleasing style. Pick up a bottle and head to the patio. $13. The Wine Merchant, winemerchantltd.com May 2016
We cannot tell a lie; we love our cherry liqueur. Maraschino is smooth, lightly sweet and aromatic with nutty undertones. Luxardo has made its maraschino liqueur since 1821. Try it TED AND JAMIE in an Aviation cocktail: KILGORE Shake 2 ounces gin, ½ USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart ounce maraschino, ½ and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House ounce lemon juice and ¼ ounce crème de violette with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist or a real maraschino cherry. $37. Lukas Wine and Spirits, lukasliquorstl.com
Pale ales and session IPAs: What’s the difference? Both can offer bold, juicy hop notes, yet have backbones and ABVs that are soft and CORY AND approachable. OldKAREN KING school pale ales tend Co-owners at Side Project toward subtle caramel Brewing and The Side malt flavors and colors Project Cellar (like the Odell 5 Barrel pale ale), while the modern session IPA is often paler and drier (like the Firestone Walker Easy Jack). Pick up one of each and explore the distinctions. Randall’s, all Missouri locations, shoprandalls.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
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BEER
Some like it hot 4 beers that bring the heat B Y K AT I E H E R R E R A
With summer right around the corner, the time is right to spice things up. Add fresh chile pepper beers to your beverage repertoire.
habanero spice. International Tap House, 1711 S. Ninth St., St. Louis, 314.621.4333, internationaltaphouse.com
Dried or fresh peppers are added to beer using a variety of techniques. Brewers can choose to add the fiery guys pre-fermentation into the boil or post-fermentation as a dry hop. Dried chiles – frequently ancho chiles (aka dried poblanos) – are added when the brewer wants to create more concentrated, robust flavors in addition to heat, like tobacco, leather, chocolate and smoke.
Green Chile Ale Main & Mill Brewing Co. This draft-only beer is light, mild and thirst quenching with an intense fresh pepper aroma and a touch of heat on the palate from Anaheim and serrano peppers. An easy drinker, this is a surefire way to get into chile beers. Main & Mill Brewery & Restaurant, 240 E. Main St., Festus, 636.543.3031, mainandmillbrewingco.com
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Fresh chiles are typically used when a more delicate palate is desired, especially in lighter-bodied beers. The flesh and oils of a fresh or freshly roasted chile can create aromas and flavors of flowers, pit fruits and grass that pair nicely with its characteristic heat. If you’re intrigued but lack the cojones, try adding these potentially sweatinducing beers to a marinade for grilled meat and vegetables or as a beer float in a mojito, margarita or bloody mary. St. Louis, your summer just got muy caliente.
Huck’s Habanero Apricot Wheat Mark Twain Brewing Co. Clean heat with some apricot sweet, Huck’s light, wheat body and juicy, fresh apricot are the perfect complement to the lingering but not excruciating May 2016
Habanero Sculpin IPA Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits This IPA is bitter, fruity and bursting at the seams with an array of hop character. Tropical fruit and zesty citrus give way to a continuous habanero heat that seems to increase with every sip. Mike’s Grill & Tap, 2447 State Highway K, O’Fallon, Missouri, 636.240.0633, mgtofallon.com
Dia de los Serranos Green Flash Brewing Co. Rich and complex, this brew is just like your abuela’s mole recipe. Intense, bittersweet chocolate and a roasty palate up front gives way to a beautiful, lingering fresh serrano heat. Pro tip: Let this beer warm up a bit to bring out the pepper flavors from the start. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, craftbeercellar.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
VEGETIZE IT
Mushroom Moussaka BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
T
una noodle casserole was the blackest mark in the culinary dark period of my youth. Its cacophony of unrelated ingredients – boxed macaroni and cheese, oily tuna and mushy, ashen canned peas – left me with an irrefutable aversion to casseroles. That is until I was struck by the ultimate attitude adjuster: desperation. Needing to make a meal on Sunday with enough leftovers to feed my overscheduled family until Wednesday, I threw in the towel, picked up my Pyrex and dove into moussaka.
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Moussaka is a hearty Greek casserole that’s traditionally made with three layers: eggplant, minced lamb and rich white sauce that is the proverbial and literal glue holding the whole caboodle together. For my vegetarian version, I wanted to use potatoes to create a sturdy base. A layer of tender roasted eggplant kept the texture from becoming too dense and absorbed the sweet cinnamon and nutmeg flavors at the same time. When selecting your eggplants, choose two small fruits over one big one. Smaller eggplants tend to have fewer seeds, and their skins are less bitter. (If your produce selection is limited and you have to use a whopper, just peel it and move on.) If you’re an eggplant-shunner, feel free to substitute an equal amount of zucchini. Instead of lamb, I used whole cremini mushrooms that I minced in my food
processor. The two became visually indistinguishable, except that the mushrooms disintegrated into an ugly paste when I sauteed them. Using raw mushrooms in the moussaka was no better – the liquids released when baking, turning a juicy meal into a sloppy mess. I solved the problem by chopping the mushrooms into bigger pieces and adding firm prepared lentils to the saute to mimic the savory flavor and texture of meat. Moussaka’s final layer of Greek-style white sauce is surprisingly easy to make. The trick is to warm the milk, bay leaf and nutmeg in a separate pot, then add it to your roux (flour and butter) one ladleful at a time. Whisking each addition before adding the next keeps your sauce lump-free. The addition of egg and salty feta adds contrasting notes to the sweet nutmeg, while putting a decidedly Greek spin on a classic bechamel. You can tweak the recipe by omitting the cheese entirely, or by substituting goat cheese, Gruyere or Parmesan. The best ingredient you can add to this recipe, though, is time. This casserole tastes even better the second day, when the flavors have blended together harmoniously. The worst ingredient you can add, obviously, is a can of peas.
May 2016
MUSHROOM MOUSSAKA 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 1½ lbs. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch thick slices 4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 1½ lbs. small eggplants, skin on and cut into ¼-inch thick slices 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 tsp. minced garlic 1¼ lb. whole cremini mushrooms, coarsely chopped 1 cup prepared green or black lentils ¼ cup tomato paste 1 tsp. ground cinnamon ¾ tsp. ground nutmeg, divided 1 Tbsp. sugar ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes 4½ cups whole milk 1 fresh bay leaf 8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 cup flour 4 eggs, beaten 6 oz. crumbled feta or goat cheese • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt. Arrange
the potatoes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat the process with the eggplants, arranging the oiled slices on a second baking sheet. Roast 15 minutes, switching the pans on the oven racks halfway through. Set aside. • In a heavy skillet over mediumhigh heat, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook an additional 30 seconds. Add the chopped mushrooms and cook until the liquids release and evaporate, about 10 minutes. • Stir in the lentils, tomato paste, cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, sugar, remaining 1 teaspoon salt and pepper until well combined. Add the tomatoes with the liquid and reduce heat to medium. Cook 5 minutes until the flavors are well blended. Taste, adjust the seasonings, remove from heat and set aside. • In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk, the remaining ¼ teaspoon nutmeg and the bay leaf. Cook until hot, but not boiling. • In a large saucepan over medium heat, make a roux by melting the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook 2 minutes. Remove the bay leaf from the milk mixture, then add the milk to the roux 1 ladleful at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. The sauce will be very thick. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow to cool slightly. In a small bowl, combine the eggs and feta, then whisk into the white sauce. • Spray a 10-by-16-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Spread 1 cup white sauce on the bottom. Add the potatoes in a single layer followed by eggplant in a single layer. Spread the mushroom-lentil sauce over the eggplant, then cover with the remaining white sauce. Bake, uncovered, 1 hour or until golden brown. Let cool 15 minutes before serving.
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MAKE THIS SHRIMP ROLL ACTIVE TIME: 8 MINUTES
MAKE THIS Downside to not living by the ocean: no ocean. Upside to not living by the ocean: We don’t have to fight the seagulls for these sandwiches. In a large pot, bring 8 cups water plus 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning or salt to a boil. Remove from heat and add 1 pound medium peeled and deveined shrimp. Cover and let sit 3 minutes. Prepare an ice bath. Drain the shrimp and submerge in the ice bath to cool. In the bowl of a food processor, combine 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 clove garlic, ¼ cup fresh basil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Pulse to combine. With the processor running, drizzle 1½ cups olive oil until a thick aioli forms. Roughly chop the shrimp and toss with ½ cup chopped celery and the aioli. Pile on 4 toasted hot dog buns or potato, brioche or Kaiser rolls brushed with melted butter and top with sliced tomato and lettuce. – Dee Ryan
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
To avoid tough, rubbery shrimp, don’t add them to boiling water. Remove your pot from heat before adding the shrimp to gently cook them.
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SUM MER a preview of
D R I N K I N G by kristin schultz | photos by carmen troesser
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ben bauer of the libertine is making his own blue curacao.
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mules at katie's pizza and pasta
hile we enjoy a contemplative cocktail and nuanced nip, it’s time to lighten up and have some fun. Our cocktail crystal ball shows a spring and summer high on whimsy and low on pretension. “It’s like music,” explained Eclipse bartender Seth Wahlman. “There are periods where what’s popular is heavy music with intricate melodies and intense lyrics. Then, five or six years go by and people just want to dance again.”
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And dance we shall. Lower ABVs and tiki drinks are back, but this season will also show stereotypical winter sippers adopting a tropical tone, college spirits getting schooled, slushies that aren’t for kids and variations on mules that may come in a tin can or garnished with a paper umbrella. May 2016
B r a n dy g o e s to t h e b e ac h Bartenders are stashing the snifters and breaking out the swizzle sticks because brandy isn’t just for fireside sipping. Cognac and Armagnac are both distilled from white wine with grapes grown in their namesake regions of France. The more familiar cognac is distilled twice, while Armagnac is oak barrel-aged after one trip through the still. Each is unique, but their shared grape base lends both to the juicier flavors of summer. “They blend really well with passion fruit, orgeat (a French almond syrup) and bitter components because they’re naturally sweet with fruity, grape flavors,” said Elijah Barnes, bar manager at Cleveland-Heath. Richard Vagnino, cocktail and spirits director at Reeds American Table, is also crushing on the grapebased spirit, featuring it in the gingery refresher It Takes One to Know One and the bitter yet bright rye-based CCR.
above: brandy cocktails from reeds american table; left: richard vagnino from reeds american table drinks a it takes one to know one. May 2016
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THE LADY
SAUGET at frazer's
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looks m at t e r
ride the mule
“You drink first with your eyes,” said Terry Oliver, bar manager of Frazer’s. “If it’s appealing when it comes out, you’re more likely to enjoy it.” He would know; this south side barkeep has long featured playful presentations of his creations. “I take the ingredients seriously but presentations are fun. It shows we’re not so stuffy.”
A spirit, some citrus and ginger ale makes a member of the buck family. Using ginger beer instead? That’s a mule you’re riding. Spicy and sparkling, it’s no wonder ginger beer is a go-to topper adding sass to cocktails.
Look for whimsical and ironic presentations outside the realm of tiki drinks during this antistuffy season. Oliver’s Shandy Quaid is a thoughtful mix of Big O ginger liqueur, bourbon and lemon garnished with a 7-ounce bottle of Miller High Life, a paper umbrella and a bendy straw.
terry oliver of frazer's
g r a d u at e school The collegiate affection for Everclear is no great mystery: It’s 190 proof and can be set on fire. Perhaps Everclear’s questionable reputation has more to do with unimaginative undergrads than its actual properties. Like vodka, Everclear is a neutral spirit – a blank canvas waiting for a master’s brush stroke. Enter capable barkeeps who, with far more creativity than your freshman roommate, can infuse the spirit with fruit and herbs or whip up house-made limoncello. Sip some at Planter’s House where co-owner Ted Kilgore has May 2016
infused Everclear with strawberry, kiwi and pineapple, then added a little water and simple syrup to decrease the proof and increase sweetness. He combines the mix with two kinds of rum and citrus, and serves it up in a tin can for an Urban Jungle Juice. Remember “mixing” bad white rum and blue curacao? So fun, so festive, so awful. The Libertine beverage director Ben Bauer is making his own blue-colored, orange-y liqueur. He steeps botanicals in Wray & Nephew Jamaican rum and steeps orange zest and dried orange peels in cognac. After a few days, the infusions get strained, sweetened and colored (with wood sorrel when he can find it). Look who’s all grown up.
Alongside the fun and frivolity, look for summer sippers served up in thoughtful glassware. The pretty rhubarb and cream cocktail at Blood & Sand comes in an equally fetching long-stemmed glass that bar manager Matt Osmoe chose to complement this specific cocktail.
The team at Katie’s Pizza and Pasta splashes it atop rye whiskey, mint and orange in the Mint Mule. Ginger beer also makes an appearance here in the Blackberry-Sage Pimm’s Cup. The Big Trouble in Little China at The Preston is a riff on a dark and stormy featuring the addition of Chinese Five Spice to blackstrap rum, lime and ginger beer. The Young Buck at Retreat Gastropub gets a lift from ginger beer. Sweet and smoky, it features bourbon, lemon, strawberry, floral hibiscus, Byrrh and an adobo tincture. Grab a straw, pack the cognac and saddle up for a season of well-crafted cocktails stirred and shaken with 100-proof fun.
g r ow n - u p big gulp Skip the gas station and head to the bar where boozy slushies abound. Porano Pasta offers a refreshing Negroni, Mission Taco Joint has a regularly rotating selection of frozen libations like the rum-based Lava Flow or classic margarita, and Peacemaker Lobster and Crab Co. offers a bourbon punch along with a rotating seasonal offering (currently The Grapefruit Mule).
above: urban jungle juice from planter's house
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best new
FOOD TRUCKS
owner samantha mitchell inside farmtruk
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Satiating famished masses strolling through Citygarden and pouring out of office complexes like Wells Fargo, food trucks are no longer a novelty but a permanent fixture on the St. Louis food scene. More than 70 wheels rolled out in the last year as a fleet of new trucks took to the streets, parking lots, festivals and parks. Spatula-wielding, paper basket-slinging operators might make it look easy, but not all trucks are created equal. We hunted down those that opened between April 2015 and 2016, anonymously stood in line and tasted the fare. Based on how well the truck communicated with the public (Don’t make it hard to get paid, people.), how fast and accurately food was handed over (Service isn’t only important indoors.) and most important, if the food was memorable enough to bring us back for more, we narrowed our list to the six best new food trucks in St. Louis. We’ll see you in line.
BY CATHERINE KLENE, TIFFANY LEONG AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ May 2016
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SAUSAGES AND FRIES from F R A N K L Y SAUSAGES
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potatoes are brined and double-fried for what just might be the best order of french fries in St. Louis.
SPICY T O F U from
franklysausages.com // Facebook: Frankly Sausages // Twitter: @FranklySausages
Communication The truck is a
little more than 1 month old, and so far so good. Locations are announced on Facebook, Twitter and Farmtruk’s website, which includes a sample menu of her frequently rotating offerings.
Service Friendly and knowledgeable.
K-BOP
K-BOP Get Korean food on the fly at K-Bop. From downtown STL to business parks in West County, K-Bop delivers “cup bop” rice bowls served in bright yellow cups sporting a smiling, spoon-andchopstick-wielding rice cloud logo. There are seven kinds of chicken, beef, pork or tofu cup bop options with sauces ranging from teriyaki to spicy Korean barbecue. Each bowl comes with fresh vegetables, Korean sweet potato noodles tossed in sesame oil and soy sauce and a choice of white or brown rice. Freshly prepared, expertly seasoned and served in a hurry, K-Bop is generously portioned and pocketbook friendly. – K.S.
Despite a long line on opening day (a great sign), Mitchell kept cool under pressure, dishing out lunch after lunch.
What to get Don’t miss the savory beignets. These fried delights are stuffed with pork sausage then drizzled with a honey glaze, hot sauce and a spiced powdered sugar for a steamy bite of sweet-savory satisfaction. If you opt for a side, the creamy mac and cheese with its crunchy, garlicky breadcrumb and bacon topping is a good choice.
farmtrukstl.com // Facebook: Farmtruk // Twitter: @farmtrukstl
Communication Current, accurate
and thorough. Follow K-Bop on Twitter and Facebook or check out the truck’s weekly schedule on its website.
Service Fast and friendly. It’ll take you
FOOD PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS; ANGIE BURGER PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
longer to get to the third-floor vending machine than to nosh at K-Bop.
What to get Go spicy. Order the pork made fiery with a Korean red pepper base or the equally satisfying spicy tofu. Big chunks of deep-fried tofu are tossed in a sweet-smoky gochujang-based sauce and piled atop rice and noodles.
FRANKLY SAUSAGES Move the palate and precision of Cardwell’s chef de cuisine to a food truck, and you’ve got Frankly Sausages. Co-owner and chef Bill Cawthon cranks out house-ground, handmade lamb, chicken, beef and pork sausages with toppings that range from classic house-made sauerkraut and coarse-ground mustard to feta and grilled red onion. Frankly Sausages regularly joins the Citygarden fleet during the lunch hour and parks outside Six Mile Bridge Beer in Maryland Heights some nights, so you can enjoy a beer with your brat as the culinary gods intended. – C.K. May 2016
Communication Almost daily
communication on Facebook and Twitter, even when the truck isn’t rolling that day keeps us engaged and hungry for more.
Service Fast, informed and quick to
recommend from the day’s offerings.
What to get Keep an eye out for the chile verde sausage, featuring house-ground pork topped with just enough vibrant avocado and tomatillo relish, queso fresco and fresh cilantro to accent, but not overpower, the juicy sausage. And yes, you absolutely want fries with that. Hand-cut russet
kbopstl.com // Facebook: K-Bop STL // Twitter: @kbopstl
FARMTRUK Owner Samantha Mitchell makes use of her experience in the kitchen at the hallowed Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield by practicing local, seasonal sourcing and employing nose-to-tail butchery. From farm to truck to table, Farmtruk slings high quality, mobile American fare from brisket to vegan tacos to hand-held chicken potpies. – K.S.
ANGIE BURGER
ANGIE BURGER Riding the wave of her Budweiser Bud & Burgers competition victory in July 2015, Angie Saville now slings her award-winning burgers from a psychedelic food truck decorated with colorful galaxies, undulating bacon and a velociraptor. Burgers and tater tots are both available with your choice of toppings. Yes, the menu is essentially two items, but they’re both customizable – and prize worthy. – K.S. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
food will be out before you’re done checking your text messages. What to get Go for the house-made chorizo taco, which comes topped with avocado, pineapple pico de gallo, pickled jalapeno and cilantro-lime crema for a complex, spicy but balanced bite. The grilled chicken taco is also a winner with ancho barbecue sauce, pickled red onion and mango salsa. Instead of a side of classic rice or beans, spend the extra buck and get the grilled Mexican street corn (or elotes) topped with queso fresco.
missiontacotruck.com // Facebook: Mission Taco Truck // Twitter: @ MTJ_Mobile
from
TO CI N O PO RK B U RRITO AT PN OY KI N G S
PNOY KINGS
itself to swift, polite service. On one visit, we had to wait for gravy to be made for a tater tot poutine, but walked away with a free extra order of tots for our trouble.
What to get It’s painted on the
truck: Get the Angie Burger. This patty pops thanks to the addition of shredded cheddar, bacon, garlic and Budweiser in the ground beef. It comes topped with sweet caramelized onion, American and Provel cheese, brown sugar-maple glazed bacon, tomato and spinach, all held together in an onion bun. Facebook: Angie Burger // Twitter: @ AngieBurgerSTL
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What’s a Speed Pass? These $10 tickets allow you to use an expedited line at one food truck during Food Truck Friday. We’re giving away six pairs of Speed Passes throughout May. Here’s how it works:
MISSION TACO TRUCK Mission Taco Truck brings a handful of highlights from the Mission Taco Joint’s Mexicali-style menu, featuring meal options for the hungry (two tacos and a side) and the hangry (three tacos and a side) along with a la carte tacos, burritos and quesadillas. From light Baja fish to rich beef brisket or savory grilled portobello, every palate and diet can find their taco at this truck. Order your favorites from the brick and mortar locations, or try something new with rotating taco specials, all with house-made tortillas, unique sauces and salsas. – T.L. Communication Solid. Follow
Mission Taco Truck on Facebook and Twitter for the latest. Like to plan ahead? Check Facebook for the week’s schedule. If something changes, it is posted online so you won’t end up on a wild goose chase.
Service Friendly and helpful.
Don’t sweat long lines, because your
Don’t let Pnoy Kings’ plain white truck deter you from the colorful barrage of Filipino flavors waiting inside. From classic, comforting chicken adobo to chicken inasal served on a bed of bright yellow rice, husband-and-wife team Maidi and Matt McClane turn out mouthwatering Filipino-inspired street food served in bowls or flour tortillas as burritos. – C.K.
The first person to post a photo of themselves with the logo and a meal from the Food Truck of the Day wins a pair of Sauce Speed Passes to the next Food Truck Friday. Be sure to tag @SauceMag and #SauceFoodTruckFriday to enter. Six Best New Food Trucks means six chances to win!
Communication Pnoy Kings
posts regularly on Twitter announcing locations and, occasionally, daily specials.
Service Friendly and accurate,
especially when placing multiple orders.
What to get Don’t miss the tocino pork burrito: A flour tortilla bursts with garlic fried rice, flecks of spicy red chile, green onion, fried potatoes and rich marinated pork, all enveloped in a sticky Sriracha aioli. And hidden inside this nap-inducing meal is a perfectly fried egg that bathes the rice in silky yolk.
pnoykings.com // Facebook: Pnoy Kings // Twitter: pnoykings
This month on Sound Bites, managing editor Catherine Klene talks with Frankly Sausages owners Bill and Jamie Cawthon about why they went from the world of fine dining to food trucks on Friday, May 13 on St. Louis on the Air. And tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU at noon Tuesday, May 3 when the Sauce team discusses this month's Hit List.
May 2016
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
MISSION TACO TRU CK
Service The focused menu lends
Calling all food truck fanatics: Celebrate our best new food trucks and the start of Food Truck Friday season with a month of Sauce Speed Pass Giveaways!
Starting May 4, we’ll announce the Best New Food Truck of the Day on Instagram and Twitter @ SauceMag. Grab lunch from that truck, and while you’re there, look for the Food Truck Friday logo hidden nearby. (Hint: Check trees, benches, parking meters, etc.)
BAJA FISH T A C O S
Communication Angie Burger is a newcomer to the scene, but burger buffs won’t have trouble finding the truck. Check Facebook for the most current information.
G I V E A W A Y
BURGER from
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
F A R M TRUK
May 2016
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stuff to do:
MAY
BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ Cinco de Mayo Festival May 7 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., 2600 to 2800 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.632.6498, cincodemayostl.com Join the fiesta on Cherokee Street at the neighborhood’s Cinco de Mayo celebration. Catch the parade as it winds through Benton Park West and down Cherokee, then check out art vendors and live music. As you explore, grab food from stands outside La Vallesana, Taqueria el Bronco, Don Carlos, Byrd & Barrel and newly opened Mezcla. Take a ride on a mechanical bull, catch a round or two of lucha libre wrestling, and let the kids get creative with art activities and burn off energy in a bounce house.
Spring Harvest Dinner May 12 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., Urban Harvest’s Food Roof Farm, 1335 Convention Plaza, St. Louis, 314.810.6770, urbanharveststl. org/events A farm dinner soars to new heights at Urban Harvest’s Spring Harvest Dinner. Hiro Asian Kitchen chef-owner Bernie Lee puts the spotlight on spring vegetables harvested from Urban Harvest’s rooftop farm. Start with beet hummus and pickled vegetables, followed by an edamame risotto, tuna tataki and radish salad with citrus ponzu. Bread pudding and boozy Clementine’s ice cream make for a sweet ending. Tickets available online.
Food Truck Friday May 13 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Unpack the picnic blanket, grab the dog leash and head to
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Tower Grove Park for the season’s first Food Truck Friday. Check out perennial favorites like Cha Cha Chow, Seoul Taco and Fire & Ice Cream Truck, as well as newcomers like Angie Burger, Farmtruk and Slide Piece. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co. pull pints, and The Porch in Soulard offers wine this year, while Letters to Memphis rocks the evening away.
Dinner at the Estates May 21 – 7 to 9:30 p.m., Mount Pleasant Estates, 5634 High St., Augusta, 636.482.9463, mountpleasant.com Savor dinner and a view in Augusta as Mount Pleasant Estates hosts a threecourse dinner and wine pairing. Start with a bright spinach salad paired with a glass of brut sparkling, then indulge in a prime rib dish with spring vegetables paired with fruity cabernet sauvignon. For dessert, sip sweet ice wine and dip your spoon into a triple-berry shortcake. Tickets available by phone.
The Truck Stops Here May 25 – 6 to 9 p.m., Robust Wine Bar, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, robustwinebar.com Enjoy the spirit of collaboration when Mission Taco Truck pulls up to Robust Wine Bar. The second of a four-part series featuring rotating trucks, Robust chef Joseph Hemp V and Mission Taco coowner and chef Jason Tilford join forces to offer an a la carte meal or a prix-fixe dinner paired with wine, beer or cocktails. Reserve your seat online or by phone. denotes a sauce sponsored event May 2016
St. Louis County Greek Fest May 27 to 29 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and May 30 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Assumption Greek Orthodox Church, 1755 Des Peres Road, Town & Country, 314.966.2255, stlgreekfest.com Go Greek in St. Louis County with food, music and folk dancers. Fill up on roasted lamb shank, beef and lamb gyros, spinach-filled spanakopita, ground beef-stuffed grape leaves and more. Indulge your sweet tooth with buttery, honey-and-nut layered baklava and a Greek coffee frappe, then drop the kids at the children’s corner and hit the market to shop for jewelry, clothing and more.
sponsored events Maplewood Street Food Tour May 6 – 6 to 9 p.m., participating locations, Maplewood, cityofmaplewood.com/street-food Check out the savory food scene in Maplewood. Take a self-guided tour of 14 different restaurants as they serve dishes that best represent their offerings. Enjoy food and beverage samples from Schlafly Bottleworks, Vom Fass, The Crow’s Nest, Boogaloo and more. Tickets are available at participating locations.
Laumeier Art Fair May 6 to 8 – Laumeier Sculpture Park, 12580 Rott Road, Sunset Hills, 314.615.5278, laumeier.org Spend Mother’s Day exploring the arts at the 29th annual Laumeier Art Fair. The sculpture park hosts 150 artists, as well as participating restaurants like Capitalist Pig, Mission Taco and Pyro Pizza. Local beer and wine is served. Tickets available online or at the park.
Urbanaire 2016 May 7 – 6 p.m., St. Louis Union Station Hotel, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, promoonline.org Promote equality for all at Promo’s Urbanaire 2016. The annual fundraiser for the LGBT advocacy organization features appetizers from more than 20 St. Louis restaurants including Eleven May 2016
Eleven Mississippi, Steve’s Hot Dogs and more, as well as desserts, cocktails, live entertainment and silent auction events. Tickets available online.
Wine and Dine with Sauce May 13 – 6:30 to 9 p.m., Dierbergs, 1081 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, dierbergs.com/school Join us at Dierbergs in Des Peres for a taste of Sauce Magazine. Managing editor Heather Hughes, art director Meera Nagarajan and contributing writer Glenn Bardgett demonstrate recipes from the pages of Sauce along with beverage pairings. Reservations online; seating is limited.
Central West End Cocktail Party June 4 – 5 to 10 p.m., Euclid Avenue between Maryland and McPherson avenues, St. Louis, cwescene.com It’s believed that the first recorded cocktail party took place in 1917 in the Central West End. Raise a glass to history at the Central West End Cocktail Party. Guests enjoy live music, street performers and Dr. Dan the Pancake Man while they sip drinks from more than 10 CWE restaurants including El Burro Loco, Sub Zero Vodka Bar and Gamlin Whiskey House. Stick around to watch the final round of professional and amateur cocktail competitions and see who takes the boozy first prize.
Tower Grove Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Spring produce returns to the Tower Grove Farmers Market. Get there early to enjoy free yoga and qi gong classes before stocking up from favorite vendors like Three Rivers Community Farm and Urban Buds and try something new from first-timers like Nutty Bites, Dierks Farms, Red Guitar Bread and Scratch Brewing, which sells beer bread, soda and produce.
Cheers to 35 Years Through May 31, participating locations, operationfoodsearch.org Operation Food Search is extending its Cheers to 35 Years celebration through May 31. Purchase a glass of “OFS Wine” at a participating restaurant. Take a selfie enjoying your selection, then post it to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram with @OpFoodSearch or @SauceMag and #Cheersto35Years. A portion of the wine sales benefits OFS, and you’re entered in a drawing for a case of wine. A full list of participating restaurants and retailers is available online. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
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WHAT I DO Todd Geisert
Part farmer, entrepreneur, marketer, networker, delivery man, community volunteer and advocate, Todd Geisert has continued a 135year family agriculture tradition, expanded the family’s brand to include more than 60 products, and he’s done it all in eight short years. Committed to raising his heritage breed pigs naturally – the way his family has done for more than a century – Geisert is equally committed to helping other farmers and producers get their products to market and into chefs’ kitchens. In his latest venture, Farm to You Market, Geisert and his wife, Katie Geisert, curate produce, packaged foods, meats, cheeses, milk and ice cream made and produced within 200 miles of the family’s Washington farm. Here, the life of this renaissance farmer in his own words. – Kristin Schultz
The smell “What you’ll find when you come to the farm is that you’ll hardly ever smell the pigs. You’ll smell the sewage treatment plant down the road here – and you can put that in your quotes. People think it’s the pigs (they’re) smelling and I tell them, ‘You’re smelling your own poo.’”
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back, we probably could have kept it going, learning what we learned, but I was in the shop at 6 in the morning until 9 or 10 at night, and (we) had a little one. I was worn out.” Farm life “In the morning, the priority is (to) take care of the livestock, and … then you can start doing your other things. If you’re farrowing (birthing), it takes an extra couple hours. Then you work on repairs and maintenance for the
next season or deliveries. There’s never a lack of things to do on a farm. If you can’t find something to do, you’re just not looking hard enough.” Working relationships “The people I like working with are the ones (who) care about what they’re doing. Our big focus here is being able to tell people where their food’s coming from and how it’s raised. Most of the (producers) I’m working with, I know their operations and can
tell you what they do. It’s why I’ve tapped them for (Farm to You Market), because I trust what they’re doing.” What we live for “We’ve made a living doing things a little different than everybody else. Everything we’ve tried hasn’t always worked. Whether it’s farming or deliveries or dealing with customers, there’s hardly ever a day that’s the same. It’s what you get up for every morning.” May 2016
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
Being an entrepreneur “My junior year of high school, I started a welding and fabricating business, building trailers and truck bodies because that’s what I like doing. It turned into a pretty good-sized business, where we had 20-some-odd people working for us, making several hundred trailers and truck bodies a year. Then the economy changed and … we learned a lot of lessons (about expanding) too fast. After 10 years, we closed up, in the fall of ’96. Looking
Farm to You Market 5025 Old Highway 100, Washington, 844.682.2266, farmtoyoumarket.com
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